Zagreb In Your Pocket No74 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB Winter 2013/14

Local designer‘s goodies Find your unique item

Food to warm up your winter Reward yourself indoors after being outdoors

N°74 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Roman & Ivana

Meet a young couple from the Croatian literary scene

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr

CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Celebrating Winter

Celebrate Winter with us!

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Zagreb Pulse

Folks from Zagreb literary scene

Where to stay

A place to rest your weary head

Local flavour

Something to tickle your taste buds...

Dining & Nightlife

Zagreb may be cold these days, but look out for plenty of hot new events this winter, including lots of exhibitions, concerts, as well as Advent and New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Eve celebrations. See pages 9-23

Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome

What to see

Coffee & Cakes Easily the best scene in the world!

All those things you mustnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

Getting around

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Directory

The most essential support

Maps & Index Street register Transport map City centre map City map Country map

62 63 64 66 67

Now is the time to enjoy some delicious winter sweets! Find out more on page 38

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Winter 2013/14

FOREWORD ‘Jingle bells and your sense of smell awakens in Zagreb.’

Publisher

Oh, what fun it is to munch on all the foodie goodies! Indeed, you’ve come to right place at the right time as traditional specialties are frantically being prepared around the household. We have a superfluous insight on all the great cooking. Under ‘Local Flavour’ read up on all the season typical winter foods offered in this region, hiking in the hills and where the best hiking lodges to eat are when you need a break. Zagrebians love to shop and bare gifts so the malls and centres will be choc a block as they buy for their nearest and dearest. We’ve dedicated this guide to making your life as easy as possible at this hectic time of year. Discover the best places in town to buy gifts for your loved ones from local croatian manufacturers under ‘Local Labels.’ The lead up to Christmas is Advent and Zagreb is filled with warmth as many concerts, festivals, stalls, restaurants and cafes are devoted to this holy time. You’re bound to find a gorgeous authentic Christmas souvenir and the city really is a buzz. Don‘t worry, because after the holidays the town will still be filled with plenty to do and see, including a plethora of exhibitions, concerts and gastronomic events. As well, when the snow begins to fall, find a near-by excursion to relax and rejuvenate. We’ll tell you about the top 5 places to visit in the region. Last but not least, we send a big cheerio and thank you to all our readers and thank them for all their support and wonderful feedback. We wish you fantabulous seasons greetings and every success for the coming year.

Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732

Company Office & Accounts General Manager Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., Published 4 times per year

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedic Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Researcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Layout & Design Maja Knezić, Gordan Karabogdan Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover Photo Zvonimir Ferina

Sales & Circulation Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

Cover story

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava Ponistra d.o.o. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

With 2 photos featured in this guide, we present to you a young and extremely talented designer, Matija Čop, who year after year nears closer and closer to international success. His work, Object 12-1, won awards in Riga and Amsterdam and was displayed at exhibitions in Skopje and Eindhoven, as well as at a fashion show in Milan.

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CROATIA

c i t y os fe e cl ius t elnt uf ere le

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

TEL: +385 1 481 40 51

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park‘s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park‘s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that‘s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz runs a bus service from Pleso International to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn.

National holidays 2014 January 1 January 6 April 20 April 21 May 1 June 19 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

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BASICS Customs As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Toilets You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago... now your sweat and tear-stained face of utter desperation lets those you pass in the streets know that the situation has moved from bad to worse. Let’s face it, we’ve all been there. Unfortunately, public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few and far between being clean and free. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

Visas Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/ embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

A new look for In Your Pocket Never a publisher to rest on our laurels, we have spent the past few months hunkered down in frenzied activity readying a brand new look for In Your Pocket. Yes, courtesy of a crack team of top designers, your favourite city guides have had a bit of a makeover; we will be rolling out the new design during the first part of 2014. Many of the changes we have made are a result of the many comments we have had from readers over the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts with us about how the guides can be improved. As such, the new look is a welcome change that brings renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our award-winning publications. Look out for the new-look In Your Pocket soon.

Winter 2013/14

HISTORY

Maksimir Park 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later renamed “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communist-controlled federal Yugoslavia. 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New

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Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenthcentury national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line.

1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December. 2012 TheSummer Olympic Games in London were the most sucdessful in Croatia’s history with 6 medals won in total. 2013 The entry of the Republic of Croatia into the European Union.

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CELEBRATING WINTER

Advent in Zagreb (www.bozicnaprica.com Archives) Tis the season to be jolly, bells are ringing and Zagreb‘s holy! You‘ve come at an illustrious time as the city and its folk relish the days leading up to Christmas. The beginning of Advent sees a transformation of the town with Christmas lights glowing, Christmas stands encompassing authentic souvenirs, mauled wine, sausages and traditional fritule (hot like doughnut balls seasoned with icing sugar and other toppings). There are plenty of events around town and you may spot Saint Nicholas with his sack full of goodies roaming about. If you‘re looking for a spot to warm up, Tomićeva Street turns into a splendid sight with various stands to mingle and jingle and its narrowly squeezed space relays a great vibe to all those present. There‘s much to do and plenty to see, so let Advent in Zagreb fill you with glee!

Christmas Markets Seek out the perfect gift, souvenir or Christmas decorations for your loved ones and perhaps even one for yourself. Prance through one or all of these Christmas markets for all your holiday needs.

21.11 2013 Thursday - 01.01 2014 Wednesday

Fuliranje at Funicular

B-2, Tomićeva. This advent experience the cultural entertainment program ‘Fuliranje by the Funicular‘ on Tomićeva Street. This year‘s theme is the 50‘s and 60‘s and will feature Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra, the Beatles and many others throughout the event. Come out for a concert and drinks with friends or simply pick up some trinkets,and sweets for your loved ones this holiday season!

30.11 2013 Saturday - 01.01 2014 Wednesday

Zrinjevac

C-2. The Market on Zrinjevac also has gorgeous small wooden houses with more arty items, unique gifts, souvenirs and Christmas decorations. Accompanied with music in the background from 18:00 until 22:00 and weekends 11:00 13:00, 20:00 - 22:00.

13.12 Friday - 24.12 Tuesday

Artomat

E-3, HDLU, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr. A charming traditional pre-Christmas fair with unique and quirky gifts up for grabs! Visitors can participate in all sorts of free workshops, enjoy interactive performances (the most interesting by Krešo Kapulica where you can make and then release lanterns into the night sky).

Classical Music and Jazz 06.12 Friday - 28.12 Saturday C-2, Cvjetni trg. Enjoy the Christmas festivities in the heart of Zagreb this holiday season. Listen to classical music and jazz as you sip a glass of hot wine on the town‘s beautifully decorated Cvjetni (‘Flower‘) Square.

New Year‘s Eve As per every year, the New Year of 2014 can be welcomed on the main squares throughout the city where free celebrations are organised. All you need is to pack on some warm shoes and clothes, a bottle of champagne and a lot of good New Year’s wishes, a fabulous party is guaranteed. Fireworks, waltz and boiled wine, together with lots of people and good fun is the winning formula for a wonderful night.

Škrabe souvenirs

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Winter 2013/14

CELEBRATING WINTER one of his works. The two altars by the outside walls of the church are dedicated to the Holy Rosary and to St Stephen the Protomartyr. The main altar, dedicated to Our Lady of the Snows, is the work of an unknown artist and depicts the Virgin Mary bathed in golden light along with two floating angels. The church’s paintings are mainly frescoes devoted to iconography of Our Lady covering all the walls of the interior. They are the work of the Tyrolean master Ivan Krstitelj Ranger. If you’d like to experience a Christmas service in this lovely Baroque church you can attend a traditional Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. On Christmas Day itself, Mass is heard at 08:00, 11:00 or 16:00. This little church, complete with a Nativity scene, will surely offer an especially cosy Christmas atmosphere. I f you don’t have a car, the best way to get to Belec is to take a bus from Zagreb coach station to Zlatar, then take a taxi to Belec. Please call in advance to check times and working hours over the Christmas holidays. The church is only open during Mass, so if you’d like to visit at other times please contact the bellringer on (+385-49) 46 04 18. The Parish Church of St Mary of the Snows Belec 52, Zlatar, (+385-49) 46 00 40. Auto Taxi Prijevoz D. Domjanića 7a, Zlatar, (+385-) 099 48 87 16. Domi Prijevoz (+385-) 099 348 87 16, 098 969 04 46.

Become a child again 06.12 2013 Friday - 06.01 2014 Monday

A Jolly Christmas Tram

Santa’s reindeers are replaced by good fairies and jovial leprechauns who will amuse children in the old tourist tram. Together with singing and fun, children will receive presents during the ride. The starting station of the Jolly Christmas Tram is at the corner of Praška Street and Ban Jelačić Square, the ride takes approx 30 minutes. Tickets can be purchased at the info house on the square, 25kn for children and children up to 3 years old for free.

21.12 2013 Saturday - 06.01 2014 Monday

Christmas in Belec The tiny hamlet of Belec, close to the little town of Zlatar north of Zagreb, is home to just a few hundred souls. Set amid the green, rolling hills of the Zagorje region, it’s the hiding place of a real treasure of church architecture - the Baroque Church of St Mary of the Snows. Apart from its rich interior, the church is an unusual example of a fortified church, being encircled by low walls and towers in a rustic Baroque style. Just a short distance away, the ruined mediaeval fortress of Belecgrad looks over protectively from its vantage point on a hillock. These defences are a reminder of the days when this region was under threat of invasion from the nearby Ottoman Empire. The church was built on the foundations of an older chapel and consecrated to Our Lady of the Snows by Duchess Elizabeth Keglević Erdody around 1675. However pleasing the church appears from outside with its lemon yellow walls and huddle of low red roofs, it’s no preparation for the explosion of colour and ornament within. The church has five altars, a pulpit and choir in gilded wood, and frescoes cover all surfaces of the interior of the church and sacristy. It’s quite breathtaking. This is one of the loveliest Baroque churches in Europe. Of the craftsmen who took part in building the altars, the most notable is Josip Schokotnigg of Graz. Of the five altars, Schokotnigg built the two at the sides of the main altar which are consecrated to St Joseph and St Barbara. The pulpit with gilded figures and reliefs from the Old Testament is also

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Live Christmas Nativity Scene

C-2, Kaptol. See Joseph, Mary, the three Kings, the shepherds and real farmed animals in a real live nativity setting in front of the Cathedral. Members of the Cenacolo Community rejoice and re-enact the story of Jesus‘ birth and help spread the Christmas spirit.

ZGH Archives

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ADVENT u ZAGREBU ADVENT in ZAGREB prosinac 2013 / december 2013 www.adventzagreb.com

CULTURE & EVENTS

Masked Ball (Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Archives)

Rock & Pop Concerts 25.01 Saturday

Iced Earth

I-4, Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb. American legends, Iced Earth, are back in Zagreb once again for their 2014 Worldwide Plague Tour. Founded by Jon Schaffer in 1985, they are one of the world‘s leading metal bands. Their previous albums include, “The Dark Saga,“ „Something Wicked This Way Comes,“ „ Horror Show „ and on this tour, will be promoting their 11th album, lagues of Babylon, which will be released January 2014. The opening act will be performed by Californian thrash metal band, Warbringer and Australian band, Elm Street. Their last concert in Zagreb was sold-out, so pick up your tickets asap! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 160 - 190kn.

03.02 Monday

Dream Theater A-4, Dražen Petrović Sports Centre, Savska cesta 30. Just out with their newest album, A Dramatic Turn of Events, Dream Theater, will make a stop in Zagreb during their 2014 European tour. The band features, singer James LaBrie, alongside John Petrucci on guitar, John Myung on bass guitar, Jordan Rudess on keyboards and Mike Mangini on drums. Come out and rock along with these burning hot metal sensations! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 210kn.

14.02 Friday

Massimo

H-3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. One of Croatia‘s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia‘s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 100 - 160kn.

04.03 Tuesday

Simple Minds

H-3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. After four long-awaited years, Scottish band, Simple Minds, is coming back to Croatia! Watch them this upcoming March in Zagreb, on their Greatest Hits Tour, at which they will be performing their best-known songs, „Don‘t You (Forget About Me),“ „Alive And Kicking,“ „Let There Be Love” and many, many others from their thirty-six long years together. Two original members will be performing, singer Jim Kerr and guitarist Charlie Burchill, along with drummer Mel Gaynor, pianist Andy Gillespie and bassist Ged Grimes. Don‘t miss out on rocking alongside one of the most popular bands in history! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 180 - 230kn.

Eugene Onegin - Metropolitan in Lisinski

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Vojin Bakić - Retrospective 07.12 2013 Saturday - 02.02 2014 Sunday

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Jonathan Bousfield looks at the career of modernist sculptor Vojin Bakić, subject of a long-awaited retrospective at Zagreb‘s Museum of Contemprary Art (MSU). According to an anecdote retold in Darko Bekić‘s excellent biography of Vojin Bakić, President Tito arrived at the opening of the Zagreb Autumn Fair in 1963 to be confronted by an angular sculpture by Bakić lying on the grass outside the entrance. “What on earth is that?” asked former metalworker Tito, adding pointedly: “I could have made that myself!” Tito spoke out against abstract ar t on more Vojin Bakić 1963, Photo by Tošo than one occasion (esDabac (ATDMSU Zagreb) pecially when he was cultivating better relations with the culturally more conservative Soviet Union), but rarely stepped in to clamp down on artistic freedom. In marked contrast to some other East-European states, modernism flourished in communist Yugoslavia, providing an avant-garde heritage that is much poured over by art historians and gallery curators today. Bakić (1915-1992), whose career stretched from figurative portrait sculptures in the Forties to brash avantgarde monuments in the Eighties, exemplifies this heritage as well as anyone. The exhibition at Zagreb‘s Museum of Contemporary Art is the first full retrospective devoted to this pivotal figure in Croatian art, and provides an ideal opportunity to get to grips with the man and his times. Graduating from Zagreb Art Academy in 1939, Bjelovarborn Bakić lost all four of his brothers to Croatian fascist execution squads in World War II, and was set to work on Agitprop projects by the communists immediately following the liberation. Bakić‘s first job was to decorate Zagreb‘s main square in preparation for the Congress of the Antifascist Women‘s Front in July 1945. He covered the square‘s equestrian statue of Ban Jelačić with a huge plywood screen, to which were added towering papier-maché figures - a female Partisan warrior on one side and a healthy corn-brandishing peasant girl on the other. Archive pictures of this Socialist-kitsch makeover are a sight to behold. The regime‘s commitment to Socialist realism was soon abandoned in the early Fifties, and Bakić participated enthusiastically in the first wave of Croatian abstract art. He was also one of the Zagreb cultural scene‘s most compelling figures, the kind of serious party animal and dedicated womanizer who helped give the Zagreb art world its distinctly bohemian flavour. Bakić‘s studio was a popular meeting point for sculptors and their muses; private parties here could go on for days. In 1953 Bakić designed a monument to Marx and Engels intended for the Yugoslav capital Belgrade, only for Tito‘s guardians of taste to cancel its construction on the grounds that it was unsuitably avant-garde. However Yugoslavia‘s communist functionaries were keen to demonstrate to the outside world that Yugoslavia was not a totalitarian state on the Soviet model, and increasingly allowed modern art and architecture a free rein. One of the key exhibits

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in the MSU exhibition is a cast of Bakić‘s Bull (1956), an iconic, muscular form that was an important inclusion in the attention-grabbingly modernist Yugoslav pavilion at the Brussels World Expo of 1958. The one sculpture that typifies Bakić‘s style more than any other is Foliated Form (Razlistana forma; 1957), an alluring black swirl that currently tops a plinth outside the Hotel Dubrovnik in central Zagreb. Resembling a cross between a submarine propeller and the interlocking tails of imaginary sea beasts, it seems to combine the grace of natural movement with an uncompromising interest in abstract form. It‘s one of the most beautiful examples of public art anywhere in Croatia - and one that casual strollers may well miss unless they are paying attention. Bakić was heavily involved in designing monuments honouring Yugoslavia‘s wartime Partisans, a form of art on which the country‘s communist rulers were particularly keen. Such was Yugoslavia‘s obsession with war-hero statues that painter Oto Gliha coined the term “Kiposlavija” (“Statueslavia”) to describe a land in which no Partisan exploit was too small to merit its own Bakić-designed memorial park. Monuments to Yugoslav idealism were unpopular in the Croatia of the 1990s, however, and many Bakić-designed constructions ended up being trashed by right-wing philistines. Suffering total destruction was the Victory Monument at Kamenska near Požega, an asymmetrical metallic tulip that can nowadays only be admired in the form of archive photographs. Arguably Bakić‘s most famous project was the memorial centre at Petrova Gora southwest of Zagreb, a 37-metrehigh cluster of angles and curves that was completed in 1981. Holding an exhibition space and a café, the outlandish memorial-cum-museum was visited by school trips and works outings from all over Yugoslavia. The interior was devastated and looted after 1991, and the stainless steel panels that covered the exterior were subsequently plundered by locals. Although nowadays recognized as a masterpiece of Croatian modernism, Petrova Gora would probably cost millions of euro to restore. The MSU exhibition also features Bakić‘s sketches for an unrealized monument to Tito that was intended to mark the centenary of the dictator‘s birth. Combining a somewhat angular sculpture of Tito set against a backdrop of jutting geometric shapes, the design gave full expression to Bakić‘s modernist instincts. Its subject, no doubt, would be turning in his grave. Jonathan Bousfield is the author of the Rough Guide to Croatia.

Bakić

Winter 2013/14

CULTURE & EVENTS 06.03 Thursday - 08.03 Saturday

20.02 Thursday

E-3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Bajaga i Intruktori is a popular Serbian rock band that was on top of the former Yugoslav music scene. They will be celebrating 30 years of work at the Cultural Factory in an extraordinary 3 day music event! Come out and re-live the last three decades with this legendary rock band. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 100 - 140kn.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. John Hollenbeck is a master at composing for large orchestras. His music cannot be categorized, as he combines jazz and new music into an identity of it‘s own. He doesn‘t like repetition and is constantly making changes to the music. Not only a composer, he is also a drummer and percussionist. His outstanding orchestra is made up of 19 of the best musicians in New York. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.

Bajaga i Instruktori

Jazz&Blues Concerts

Jazz.hr - John Hollenbeck Large Ensemble

17.01 Friday

Classical Music Concerts

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Could you ever have imagined listening to a blend of the traditional Dalmatian a capella singing, klapa and jazz? This unique musical style was created by the visionary musicians in the band, Black Coffee, established in 1993, in Split, by bassist Renato Švorinić and drummer Jadran Dučić Čićo. Ivan Ivić, the pianists, recently joined the group, five years ago. With a total of 11 albums under their belt and performing in Jazz Festivals in Italy, Austria and Slovenia, now Zagreb will be welcoming them once again, as they celebrate their 20th anniversary! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70kn.

21.12 Saturday

Jazz.hr – Black Coffee

02.02 Sunday

Live from New York I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Jack-of-alltrades, Miguel Zenon, is an alto saxophonist, composer, producer and educator. This February, Jazz Orchestra Zagreb will be collaborating with him. Born in San Juan, Puerto Rico, Zenon mixes Latin American folk music with jazz. Having earned a doctoral degree at the Manhattan School of Music, in addition to performing, this amazing musician, holds lectures at universities around the world, such as at the Berklee College of Music, Conservatorium van Amsterdam, Conservatoire de Paris, and many more. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

The Philharmonics I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Members from two of the most sensational ensembles in the classical music scene have come together! Musicians from the Vienna and Berlin Philharmonics will be performing a mixture of classical, jazz and folklore music. First violinist of the Vienna Philharmonics, Tibor Kovač, founded the joint ensemble six years ago. This multi-ethnic ensemble has performed at many renowned festivals around Europe, such as in Vienna, Paris and Munich, and now will be performing in Zagreb. Come out and enjoy a magical evening listening to the sound of music! Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 120 - 200kn.

28.12 Saturday

Ivo Pogorelić

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. This supreme Croatian pianist has won prestigious awards throughout the world. From New York‘s Carnegie Hall to the first classical pianist ever to be invited to Kuwait, his recitals of Bach, Mozart, Beethoven and all the other greats have bought him much praise as he returns to Zagreb to perform in front of his home audience. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 120 - 240kn.

15.01 Wednesday

The Vienna Boys‘ Choir I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Don‘t be fooled by their looks otherwise you‘ll think these boys ought to be cuddling teddy bears. Far from the truth, they are a rasping group of 25 choristers and are considered one of the world‘s finest boys‘ choirs; they resurrect the best of Mozart, Schubert, Haydn, Rossini, and various European folk songs. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 100 - 180kn.

Dance 23.01 Thursday - 25.01 Saturday

Silent Killer

C-2, Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, info@plesnicentar. info, www.plesnicentar.info. Choreographed by Maja Drobac, Silent Killer, is a combination of a dance project and photo exhibition that was inspired by the stories of children living with HIV in India. Through dance, the story of a 15-year-old girl who is searching for her father is shown. The choreography is derived from a traditional Indian dance. Q Performances on: 23rd, 24th and 25th January.

Prince Igor - Metropolitan in Lisinski

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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RETROSPECTIVE

M SU

7 / 12 / 20 1 3 — 2 / 2 / 20 1 4

Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, Zagreb, phone +385 1 6052 700, www.msu.hr Opening hours: Tue–Sun 11:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m., Saturday 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. Monday and holidays: closed

CULTURE & EVENTS Miroslav Kraljević

27.01 Monday

Croatia was blessed with a golden generation of young artists in the years before World War I. Oskar Herman, Josip Račić, Vladimir Becić and Miroslav Kraljević honed their skills in Munich and Paris before heading for home, their heads filled not just with the latest post-impressionist brush strokes but also racy recollections of a bohemian life lived to the full. The four seemed destined to dominate the Croatian art scene for decades to come, but things didn‘t work out that way. Račić shot himself in 1908, Kraljević died of tuberculosis in 1913, Herman spent his best years broad, and Becić simply lost his mojo. As this career-spanning exhibition at Zagreb‘s Modern Gallery reveals, it was Kraljević who was the most gifted of the four. Raised in the Slavonian town of Požega, Kraljević studied in Vienna and Munich before departing for Paris on Miroslav Kraljević - Self- a state sch olarship. portrait with dog (Modern He lived in the artists‘ Gallery Archives) quar ter of Mon tparnasse from September 1911 to November 1912, returning home as the subject of a one-man exhibition in Zagreb‘s Ulrich Gallery. The show confirmed Kraljević‘s status as the great hope of Croatian painting, which made his death in early 1913 all the more of a loss. Best known of Kraljević‘s pictures (and indeed the one that won him the scholarship to Paris) is Self-portrait with Dog (1910), the self-confident portrayal of a young artist at the top of his game and with the world at his feet. The German Shepherd at the bottom of the picture is far from being just an accessory, gazing confidently out of the painting as if to say “this is my picture too and don‘t I know it”. The dog almost looks capable of bounding off the wall and giving our pants a friendly sniff before returning to its place on the canvas. However it‘s as a detailed record of the Kraljević‘s Parisian year that the exhibition is at its most gripping. He spent his time in the French capital doing all the things that young artists were supposed to do, hanging out with dandies in cafes, drawing ballet dancers, and painting naked ladies in their boudoirs. One picture that few visitors will have seen before is Girl in an Armchair, owned by a private collector in London for many years, and only recently confirmed as a Kraljević original. It is thought to show Zlata Kolarić Klisur, the Croatian writer who met Kraljević as a teenager but didn‘t actually sit for him - the artist painted her from memory afterwards, investing the picture with an edgy sensuality that tells us as much about Kraljević as it does the girl. How different this picture is from the subdued and melancholic Self Portrait with Pipe (1912), one of the last that Kraljević ever completed, showing an ailing young man made suddenly aware of his own mortality. “Miroslav Kraljević: Retrospective” is on show at Zagreb‘s Modern Gallery from December 19 to April 6, before moving on to Split, Osijek and Dubrovnik. Jonathan Bousfield

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concer t Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Did you know that the Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra is one of the world‘s oldest orchestras? This orchestra, from Norway, was founded in 1765 and over the years, it has been lead by many prominent artists, most notably, Norwegian composer, Edvard Grieg, in the 19th century. Currently, it is being lead by American conductor, Andrew Litton. Annually, the orchestra holds tours across Europe, Japan and the United States. Come see them this January as they send chills up your spine! Q Concert starts at 19:30.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra

19.02 Wednesday

Francois Weigel featuring the Zagreb Chamber Orchestra B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.zko.hr. Come out and see Francois Weigel as he plays alongside the Zagreb Chamber Orchestra in their joint quest to further promote their love of classical music to audiences far and wide. Weigel a pianist, composer and conductor has performed throughout the great cities of Europe - Vienna, Salzburg, Berlin, Brussels, Geneva, and Paris. Join him now as he delights audiences in Zagreb. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

25.02 Tuesday

The Zagreb Quartet B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 22, blagajna@hgz.hr, www.hgz.hr. Formed in 1919, they are Croatia‘s oldest chamber orchestra and have performed at famous world concert halls such as the Sydney Opera House and New York UN Concert Hall. Their contribution to Croatian music art has been highly recognised and they continue to play a rich repertoire of classical music. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50kn.

Georges Feydeau - Buba u uhu (Kerempuh Theatre Archives)

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CULTURE & EVENTS

26.02 Wednesday

22.03 Saturday

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Enjoy the rhythms of salsa with performances from Olvido Ruiz Castellanos and Ricardo Luque. Castellanos is a singer from Havana, who founded the traditional Cuban music project, DJ Latina, in Barcelona, with her mother. Ricardo Luque, a Venezuelan singer, had his musical career take off in Moscow, where he finished a Master of Fine Arts in Music. Watch them together now as they perform alongside the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 60 - 120kn.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Come watch Austrian percussionist, Martin Grubinger, as he plays along with one of the most prestigious European orchestras, the BBC Philharmonic. Conducted by Juanjo Mena, listen to the serene sounds of these skilled musicians as they perform the Mendelssohn ‘Scottish‘ symphony. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 160 - 240kn.

Cantus Ensemble Solo –Tutti

12.12 Thursday - 20.12 Friday

Souvenir Latinoamericanos

03.03 Monday

BBC Philharmonic

Opera, Operetta & Ballet

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Come join the Cantus Ensemble as they prepare yet another concert with the concept of ‚Solo-Tutti‘ which held audiences captivated in previous seasons. Watch as skilled instrumentalists come together to perform their beautiful masterpieces, solo, on the podium, in front of the audience, drawing inspiration from deep inside. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50kn.

The Nutcracker

Yundi Li

17.12 2013 Tuesday - 07.01 2014 Tuesday

11.03 Tuesday

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Spectacular classical pianist Yundi Li is coming to Zagreb! Young Yundi, from China, is well-known for being the youngest pianist ever to win the International Frédéric Chopin Piano Competition, in 2000, at the age of 18. Come watch as his skillful fingers glide passionately over the piano keys!

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B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. This is a fairytale ballet composed by Tchaikovsky and it is well known that the selection of music has some of the best known tunes in classical music. As in this case and time of year, the ballet has become the most popular play performed around Christmas time. Q Performances on: 12th, 14th, 16th, 18th and 20th December.

The Shoemaker from Delft

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www. hnk.hr. A comic opera by the Croatian composer Blagoje Bersa (1873-1934) which was written in Vienna and for the Viennese people before WWI. It premiered in Zagreb in 1914 and remains one of the most successful Croatian operas. Q Performances on: 17th December and 4th, 7th January.

Winter 2013/14

CULTURE & EVENTS

How lives Antuntun, Tomislav Torjanac

10.01 Friday - 22.01 Wednesday

08.02 Saturday

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Gaetano Donizetti‘s melodrama returns to the stage and it contains one of the most famous arias in ‘Una furtiva lagrima‘ whilst also having one of the first ever duet operas. The composer was inspired by a medieval legend on the elixir of love but he juxtaposes this by adding that love can be found without the mystic potion. Q Performances on: 10th, 15th, 17th and 22nd January.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Don‘t miss out on Renée Fleming‘s first live performance as the mermaid Rusalka! Rusalka comes from Slavic mythology, and is a mermaid-like demon or water nymph. Conducted by Yannick Nézet-Séguin, the young Rusalka‘s Prince will be played by Piotr Beczala, along with John Relyea as Rusalka‘s father, Emily Magee as the Foreign Princess and Dolora Zajick, as the cackling swamp witch Ježibab. Come and enjoy a wonderful night of Dvořákovoj‘s mystical opera! Q Starts at 19:00. Tickets 100kn.

Gaetano Donizetti - L‘elisir d‘amore (The Elixir of Love)

04.02 Tuesday - 07.02 Friday

Gioacchino Rossini - The Barber of Seville (Il barbiere di Siviglia) B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk. hr. Although two hundred years have passed since Rossini composed his most famous comic opera, this masterpiece of musical comedy hasn‘t lost any of its irresistible charm and popularity. Watch and listen as Figaro, Rosina and other remarkable characters come to life on stage. Q Performances on: 4th and 7th February.

A. Dvorak - Rusalka

02.03 Sunday

A. Borodin - Prince Igor I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Alexander Borodin‘s epic masterpiece, Prince Igor, has been recently revised by Russian opera director Dmitri Tcherniakov. Being performanced for the first time since 1917, this is a mustsee! The musical score, conducted by Gianandrea Noseda, features ‚Polovtsian Dances‘ as Ildar Abdrazakov plays our Russian hero. Q Starts at 18:00. Tickets 100kn.

Exhibitions 20.06 2013 Thursday - 18.05 2014 Sunday

Gnalić - The Treasure of the Sunken Ship

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, hismus@ hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. In 1967, a 16th century merchant ship was found 30 meters below sea level near the island of Gnalić. Discover the cargo brought onboard this ship in Venice as it prepared for its voyage to presentday Istanbul. The exhibition will feature decorative objects, such as glasses, ceramic dishes and chandeliers, as well as bronze cannons, featuring the Venetian Coat of Arms, found among the wreckage.

22.10 2013 Tuesday - 01.05 2014 Thursday

Blonde Jokes- Stereotypes With Which We Live

J. Massenet, Werther - Metropolitan in Lisinski

Zagreb In Your Pocket

B-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, emz@ emz.hr, www.emz.hr. We‘ve all heard the blonde jokes. Why did the blonde stare at the orange juice container? Because the jar said concentrate. What do you call a basement full of blondes? A whine cellar. Along with these famous blonde jokes, stereotypes are all around us and sometimes we are unaware of the prejudices behind them. This exhibition looks at the various social views behind these stereotypes.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Simple Minds

14.11 2013 Thursday - 15.03 2014 Saturday

Like Hlapić and Gita - Orphans in Croatia from the late 19th to the early 20th Century B-3, Croatian School Museum, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, hsm@hsmuzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. The Croatian School Museum is celebrating the 100th anniversary of the first publication of ‘The Marvellous Adventures of Hlapić the Apprentice‘ by Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić. This exhibition, created by curator of the museum, Štefka Batinić, will feature orphans in Croatia from the 19th and 20th centuries. Hlapić and Gita are the most famous orphans from Croatian children‘s literature, appearing in many children‘s novels and short stories, by authors who were mostly teachers. Back then, teachers were thought to be the most qualified people to advise children about learning to deal with life‘s hardships.

14.11 Thursday - 31.12 Tuesday

Miroslav Krleža (1893 -1981 -2013) C-3, The Library of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Strossmayerov trg 14, library@hazu.hr, www. knjiznica.hazu.hr. Multimedia exhibition, ‚Miroslav Krleža (1893 -1981 -2013),‘ will open Thursday, November 14th, in the library of the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences, to celebrate the 120th anniversary of the birth of this great Croatian writer. Organized by Krešimir Nemec, Tomislav Sabljak and Mario Beusan, the exhibition will highlight some of the most important literary works by Krleža.

19.11 Tuesday - 21.12 Saturday

Design by Neil Poulton

I-2, The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska 2, gliptoteka@hazu.hr, www.gliptoteka.mdc.hr. Calling all designers! Neil Poulton, Scottish designer, featured in 2008, in Time Magazine as ‚The design 100‘ is coming to Zagreb! Winner of numerous design awards, he lives and works in Paris. His creations are featured in many museums, such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris and the Axis Gallery in Tokyo. Retrospection is his first independent exhibition, at which he will present his work, so far.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

19.11 2013 Tuesday - 26.01 2014 Sunday

Saša Šekoranja – Polyphonies

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@ muo.hr, www.muo.hr. Zagreb‘s favourite floral artist, will be displaying his inspiring designs usings plants, herbs and flower at his latest exhibition. Owner of a flower shop on Ilica and the avant-garde bar and gallery, Velvet, this artist does it all. Thoreau wandered the great outdoors marveling at nature‘s beauty, now you can stroll among this seven room exhibition and take in Šekoranja‘s creative new spin on mother earth!

28.11 2013 Thursday - 02.03 2014 Sunday

Flight into the Past - Archaeological Heritage Birds C-2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, amz@amz.hr, www. amz.hr. This exhibition is perfect for those interested in learning more about birds. It looks at, not only their ability to fly, but also their shape, size, beauty, color, and behavior, as well as many other features that birds possess. On display, items will be shown from the Copper Age up to the early Modern Age. Come fly away with us at this unique exhibition!

15.12 2013 Sunday - 05.01 2014 Sunday

Boris Demur - Spiral Journey

C-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Artist Boris Demur is known a ‘protagonist among the Croatian art scene.‘ He studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb and was considered to be one of the most gifted artists in his class, but abandoned the traditional approaches to painting shortly after graduation. He has been concentrating on spiral motifs, since 1983. His latest exhibition at the Art Pavilion will present his new series of art. The first part of the exhibition will display his working, open studio, while the second part of the show, features his finished artwork.

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CULTURE & EVENTS 17.12 2013 Tuesday - 16.02 2014 Sunday

Damir Sokić - Dead End

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, info@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Sokić, an artist and professor at the Academy of Fine Arts, will be showing selected pieces from almost thirty years of painting and sculpting. Take a walk down memory lane at this exhibition and tour Sokić‘s life work.

17.12 2013 Tuesday - 12.01 2014 Sunday

Nives Kavurić Kurtović - Exhibition of Drawings C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, modernagalerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Born and bred in Zagreb, Kurtović is honoured as this is her 51st year as an artist. Not even the dream of being invited to live in Paris could lure her from her city. Kurtović‘s art works are often surrealisitic and fantasmagoric outlined by a restless touch and drooped with refined colours.

Black House

16.01 Thursday - 23.02 Sunday

The Art Legacy of the Pejačević Family C-3, Ar t Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. This exhibition is organized by the Art Gallery in Osijek in collaboration with the Art Pavilion in Zagreb. It will display artistic heritage from Slavonia, the eastern part of Croatia as part of an art collection from noble European families. Count Pejačević‘s family lived and worked in eastern Croatia from the beginning of the 18th century to the mid-20th century and played an important role in the region economically, culturally and politically.

Miroslav Kraljević-Retrospective 19.12 2013 Thursday - 06.04 2014 Sunday

C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, modernagalerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.moderna-galerija.hr. This autumn, the Modern Gallery is organising an antology exibition by greats of Croatian Modern Art. High on the list is the majestic Kraljević who in less than six years (1906 - 1912) of intense creativity and flair had been adopting modernism and painted the world to which he belonged. From Požega via Zagreb and Munich to Pariz, his paintings included his native motherland, his family, friends and their animals too but also the Parisian boulevards, parks and cafés. This exhibit indicates that Kraljević had achieved an art work that still shines today, glowing in all its glory for us as it will for those who come after us.

Francoise Weigel

11.03 Tuesday - 06.04 Sunday

Ivan Marušić Klif - In Between Frequencies C-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Multimedia contemporary artist, Ivan Marušić Kilf, doesn‘t just work with visual artwork, but sound as well! Having graduated from the School of Audio Engineering in Amsterdam, in 1994, his field of interests include light installations and kinetic objects. At this exhibition, three audiovisual works will be presented consisting of a canvas, system projectors, cameras and a wobbulator to produce a sound frequency that forms a unique sound and a visual effect. Don‘t miss out on seeing and hearing this great exhibition!

February - April

The T-HT Prize (T-HTnagrada@msu.hr) J-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu. hr. Contemporary artists listen in as for the 7th year running the Museum of Contemporary Art and T-HT (Croatian Telecom) are organizing a course competition with a focus on multimedia productions using picture and sound - it entails video, experimental film, internet art, robotic and electronic art. A foreign jury will select the best works to be presented.

Special events 28.12 Saturday

Music Meets Words Miroslav Kraljević, Olimpija, 1912

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B-2, Gavella City Drama Theater, Frankopanska 8-10, gavella@gavella.hr, www.gavella.hr. The new cycle of music and poetry nights at the City of Zagreb‘s Drama Theater Gavella will begin this season on October 26th. The evenings are called, ‚Music Meets Words,‘ and are written and performed by Doris Karamatić and Franjo Dijak. Starting with a performance combining jazz and bebop, a unique production will take place the last Saturday of each month. December‘s

Winter 2013/14

CULTURE & EVENTS creation will be tailored specially for deaf people with Sign Language translations being done onstage, while January‘s event will feature a laser show. Many more surprises are awaited in the upcoming months, with the final performance being held in May.

04.01 Saturday - 06.01 Monday

Audi FIS Ski World Cup Vip Snow Queen Trophy 2014 Sljeme, www.snowqueentrophy.com. The annual Snow Queen Trophy skiing competition is back for another weekend of thrilling moments watching Europe‘s skiing sensations. As always, these top athletes will swish and swoosh on Sljeme, the mountains above Zagreb, in the men‘s and women‘s slalom races. Don‘t miss out on this adrenaline packed event!

19.01 Sunday

Za Ondekoza „Demon Drummers“ I-3, Vatroslav Llisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. This amazing group of musicians has for decades been wowing audiences across the globe with their unique taiko drumming and the Zagreb audience will once again have the honour to see why they have been proclaimed the best drum troupe in the world.

31.01 Friday

The Night of the Museum www.hrmud.hr. Forget the winter chill and enter a world of nostalgia, history and tradition! Enter a world of cultural establishment as all museums have a free entry from 18:00 to 01:00 that evening. The Croatian Museum‘s Society has once again organised a fantastic exhibition programme as well as educational and entertainment programmes.

08.02 Saturday - 09.03 Sunday

Flying Heel Cabaret

I-4, Buena Vista Club, Savska cesta 120. Don‘t miss out on seeing these majestic acrobats glide through the air, twist in circles and spin through hoops with pure elegance and poise. As part of the Association of Traumatic Arts, these popular ladies trained in classic acrobatic cabaret, make it seem easy and in heels none-the-less! Come out and watch as these local acrobats, along with guests from Bavaria, leave you in shock and awe! Q Performances on: 8th, 9th February and 8th, 9th March at 20:00.

August g Šenoa You can c see a statue of August Šenoa, leaning casually against Šen a pillar, at the start of Vlaška, in the heart of Zagreb, not far ffrom the Cathedral. Šenoa is bbest known as a novelist and as the author of the song a Živila Hrvatska (Long Live Ž Croatia). What is, perhaps, less Cro well known about the “father of the Croatian novel” is that he was Croa an avid collector of coins, or a numismatist. 2013 is the 175th anniversary of the birth of August Šenoa, and to commemorate as much, Zagreb’s Archaeological Museum is hosting an appropriate exhibition of those coins collected by Šenoa over the years, till February 14th 2014. The author possessed in life, a collection of Greek, Roman, mediaeval, and modern coins, and part of this collection was purchased by the museum in 1898, a few years after his death. On this occasion the most attractive part of the collection is presented, in collaboration with Šenoa’s family, who were so kind to loan some additional material for the exhibition.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Non - Nova_Credit.Jean.Luc.Beaujault (The New Circus Festival)

23.02 Sunday - 02.03 Sunday

ZagrebDox festival

C-1, Cineplexx Cinema, Nova Ves 17, info@zagrebdox. net, www.zagrebdox.net. The most beloved time of the year for film buffs is here once again! ZagrebDox, an international documentary film festival, has been taking place from the end of February to the beginning of March yearly, since 2005. Over 150 national and international documentary productions, including some of the world‘s best films, awarded at the most prestigious festivals, will be shown in cinemas at the Centar Kaptol along with workshops and lectures. Pencil Zagrebdox into your agendas, because it‘s definitely a must-see, if you‘re in Zagreb!

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you‘ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

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CULTURE & EVENTS Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you‘ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 – 19:00. Closed Mon. U

Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example; once an industrial complex but now a public space. In 1924 it housed a textile factory, later serving as a humble warehouse. ‘Lauba - The House for People and Art‘ is no mere marketing trick; the building is now home to the creation of a different product altogether, where art exhibitions coexist with day-to-day company life. The collection here is not separate from everyday life, but rather part of the building‘s lifespan, having been here this past century. Here there are no characterless white walls and the background is made from old brick and aluminium, exhibiting the many forms of its life cycle. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it is home to company employees, and from 15:00 23:00 the public takes over and it is a space for experiences, for learning, for fun, and for social interaction. Lauba has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 14:00 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called „200 Years of Croatian Art“ - that‘s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10

21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it‘s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project‘s origi-

The Zagreb Quartet

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nal purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world‘s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples‘ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.

The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š.

Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@hazu. hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that‘s indisputable. When he wasn‘t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Neil Poulton - Artemide Eraclea

Small galleries Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle

16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-) 091 512 20 28, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mirko Virius C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www.hd-naiva.hr. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02, galerija@sczg.hr, www.galerija. sczg.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Galler y (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerijaulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Winter 2013/14

ZAGREB PULSE

Photo by Sarah Jane Eyre

Booktalk In 2013 Croatian literature was more internationally visible than ever, with Daša Drndić‘s Trieste picking up the Independent Foreign Fiction Prize Readers‘ Award; Robert Perišić enjoying an American indie-publishing hit with his wryly comic novel Our Man in Iraq, and British publisher Istros (www.istrosboks.com) releasing a stream of Croatia-related titles. While the Croatian literature scene grows ever more muscular, however, it remains lamentable that so little of it gets translated. Jonathan Bousfield spoke to leading literary couple Ivana and Roman Simić-Bodrožić about the challenges of exporting Croatian culture abroad.

As well as the author of three critically acclaimed short story collections, Roman Simić-Bodrožić (Zadar 1972) works as an editor at Fraktura (www.fraktura.hr), Croatia‘s leading publisher of international literary fiction. He also organizes the Festival of the European Short Story (europeanshortstory.org), which has been bringing international writers to Zagreb every year since 2002. The next edition takes place in June 2014. Poet and novelist Ivana Simić-Bodrožić (Vukovar 1982) is the

Zagreb In Your Pocket

acclaimed author of best-selling novel Hotel Zagorje (2010), a largely autobiographical account of a girl evacuated from wartime Vukovar together with her mother and brother - the father stays in the besieged city, and is murdered in the aftermath of its fall. As well as picking up prizes at home, Hotel Zagorje has been published in Germany and France; a film version helmed by the Golden Bear-winning Bosnian director Jasmila Zbanić is in preparation. ZIYP: Just how healthy is the Croatian literary scene? And how do you translate local acclaim into international success? Roman: We have quite a vivid scene at the moment. During the 1990s there was a strong tendency among writers to reflect the war and its aftermath. Either in the sense of supporting the Croatian cause, or in exploring how the reality of Croatian independence didn‘t always live up to the dream that people had craved for. Nowadays we have a much wider spectrum of writing, with all kinds of themes, and all kinds of styles. Presenting the face of Croatian literature to a European or an English-speaking audience is where the real problems begin. We do have certain authors who are internationally visible - such as Daša Drndić, Miljenko Jergović, Zoran Ferić and Slavenka Drakulić - but it is still difficult for a European or a British reader to figure out just what Croatian literature consists of. What Croatian writers and publishers have found irritating for a long time is that there is a certain demand for a certain type of book. When foreign publishers think of Croatia they think of war, they think of Serbs-versus-Croats, and if you fit into this preconception then all the better. But they are not interested in the things that are not quite ‘Croatian‘ in the way that they perceive Croatia to be. It‘s a bit humiliating to be simplified this way. I remain optimistic that Croatia writers can make a breakthrough via smaller, independent publishers, but reaching a broad public can still be a problem. Ivana: My novel Hotel Zagorje was actually helped by the fact that its subject matter fitted in with Western expectations, and the fact that it is told from a child‘s perspective gives the narrative something warm and human that all readers can understand. Once you are identified as a particular kind of writer however it can be very difficult to break out of that assigned framework.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

ZAGREB PULSE ZIYP: The small size of the Croatian readership makes it virtually impossible for Croatian writers to make a living from their books. In conditions such as these, how can they be persuaded to carry on writing? Roman: It‘s true that Croatia is a difficult place for a writer to make a living, but then it‘s difficult to make a living doing anything here at the moment. One thing is for sure, the market on its own won‘t provide any writer with a living, which leaves us with the need for subsidies, from the Ministry of Culture and elsewhere. And if you compare our system with Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina or other countries in the region, we are actually in many ways better off. Holland and Catalonia are good examples of small languages that have state support. Or take the example of Israel, where there are only about 4.5 million readers of Hebrew, and yet each year they have a handful of books that sell in the order of 100,000 copies. They simply have a high cultural standard. Norway functions in a similar way. Obviously these societies are richer than ours, but they still demonstrate that a good book can sell 100,000 copies, and it doesn‘t have to be Fifty Shades of Grey. ZIYP: Does the ongoing digital revolution cast doubt on the viability of the book industry in Croatia? Ivana: It seems to me that more paper books are being published than ever before, it‘s just that they‘re not in bookshops anymore, but at the supermarket checkout, or the bus station kiosk. What‘s lacking is the cultural magazines and cultural supplements that used to encourage serious discussion about books, so nowadays there are so few criteria on which the book reader can base their choice. As far as the survival of paper books is concerned, the book is very important as an object, and the experience of reading on a device is very different. You can‘t enjoy a beautiful bookcover in digital form and you can‘t replace the experience of turning the pages. ZIYP: Is Croatian literature under threat from the global dominance of English-language writers? Roman: It‘s true that that English-language writers are dominant in general, although for my publishing house Fraktura it‘s the other way round - we actually publish European writers more. Ultimately it‘s not a question of whether Anglo-American dominance is good or bad, it‘s whether the books themselves are of literary value. There are plenty of excellent English-language authors who are not being translated into Croatian because they are not considered commercial enough. What is damaging is the cultural model of publishing mass-market books, taking power away from bookstores and placing product in newspaper kiosks and gas stations instead. ZIYP: Were you surprised by the success of Hotel Zagorje, and is it difficult to bear the burden of being constantly associated in the public mind with Vukovar and its wartime suffering? Ivana: When I wrote the book I didn‘t really think that a lot of people would read it. I wrote that book because I needed to, and I enjoyed the process of doing it, and if the book had only ever sold 300 copies I would still be glad to have written it. So yes, I was surprised by the attention, and I can‘t say that I wasn‘t flattered, but on the other hand I am conscious that people no longer experience me as a person with all my character traits, but as some kind of symbol. This success came to me relatively early in life, and it takes time for things to fall into place, both as a writer and as a person who is OK with their private self, regardless of the fact that some other people might view you in a completely different way to what you actually are. The thing about writing a semiautobiographical novel is that a lot of people think that they know everything about you, and tend to use that information

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

however they want. So you need to find a way of not feeling discomforted by all of this. ZIYP: Both of you write predominantly in the first-person. When you read each other‘s prose, do you ever feel that you are finding out intimate things about your partner that you never knew before? Roman: Yes, you do discover some things you wanted to discover, and some others that probably you didn‘t. It‘s an interesting experience to find a trace of real life in your partner‘s work that maybe you knew from quite another angle. Ivana: The fact that we are both writers does make it easier. A non-writer might be much more worried about coming across some uncomfortable secrets in their partner‘s first-person stories. However a writer understands perfectly well that stories often start with a bit of reality, before pure fiction is placed on top. Writers are after all allowed to make things up. Jonathan Bousfield is the author of the Rough Guide to Croatia.

Mingling 17.12 Tuesday

Art Clubbing

B-2, Pepermint Club, Ilica 24, www.pepermintzagreb.com The Art Clubbing concept is an art-music project designed to cater to art and music lovers. Each program combines various arts - photography, literature, comics- with fashion and local or foreign music. This concept will take place the last or second last Tuesday of December, January, February and March at Pepermint club.

20.12 Friday - 22.12 Sunday

7th Festival of Creativity and D.I.Y. Culture B - 4, Student‘s Centre Cinema, Savska cesta 25 (outer entrance hall), www.fistt.wordpress. com. Wondering what D.I.Y. stands for? It means Do It Yourself! This festival focuses on promoting DIY itemssculptures, jewelry, comic books, clothing, shoes, bags or pictures, lamps, toys, natural cosmetics and other eco products. Come check out what type of self-made objects you can find!

Art Clubbing

Every Thursday

Štrikeraj caffe

I-3, The ‘Ozana’ Association, Ulica grada Vukovara 239, tel. (+385-1) 615 29 46, ozana.udr@hi.tcom.hr, www.udruga-ozana.hr. ‘Ozana‘ is a socialhumanitarian organization founded in order to improve the quality of life of physically and mentally challenged people. Every Thursday, they meet at Štrikeraj Cafe, from 17:00-20:00, to stimulate the creativity of disabled individuals by teaching them to knit and crochet. These gatherings are available for anyone to attend. So, come one or come all and enjoy a wonderful night of friends, laughter and creativity! Follow upcoming events at their FB page.

Winter 2013/14

WHERE TO STAY Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. Everything you‘d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they‘re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Dogs weighing up to 20 kg are free of charge whereas all other pets (including dogs) come at a cost of 30€ per day. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €105 - 135, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Executive Rooms €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). PiJHAR6UFLGB KDXCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin. zagreb@westin.com, www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It‘s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €112 - 157, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €162 - 207, 1 Presidential Suite €1100 - 1500, 19 Executive Suites €247 - 292, 2 Delux Suites €547 - 592). PZOTJHAR6UFLGBKDXCwW hhhhh

Upmarket BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb‘s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR 6ULGKW hhhh Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb J-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com. Located in Zagreb‘s business district, it‘s only a few kilometers from the city center. Decorated in a sleek and modern style, this chic hotel has 152 guestrooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking a spectacular panoramic view of the city. During your stay, get your heart rate up at the fitness center or just kick back your feet and relax at the indoor pool and sauna. For a quick fix on any shop-a-holic urges, Green Gold Shopping Center is located nearby, along with plenty of restaurants to satisfy your food cravings. Pets allowed. Breakfast included. Parking 15 €. Q152 rooms (26 Guest Rooms Twin €109 - 209, 90 Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Disabled Guest Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 - 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). PHAR6UFLGDCwW Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q 234 rooms (102 singles €135, 91 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 33 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Presidential Suite €220). POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh

Old-School charm Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@ esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 35€/day. Breakfast not included; 24€/person. Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €129 - 169, 48 Delux Rooms €159 - 188, 13 Delux Suite €219 - 259, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). PTJHAR6UIFLEGB KDW hhhhh

Mid-range Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484

11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone‘s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren‘t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (34 singles €65 - 85, 33 doubles €80 - 100, 5 triples €130, 4 apartments €139). PiOTJHAR6L GW hhh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www. hoteljadran.com.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, many of the hotel rooms overlook one of the oldest streets in the city, Vlaška. Enjoy the view of the busy day-to-day activities of locals as they travel to and from the city center, while overlooking Zagreb‘s Cathedral in the distance. Only a few minutes‘ walk from the main square, this modern and sleek hotel, offers the luxuries of a flat-screen TV, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. Its central location is perfect for easy access to the main tourist sites. Q49 rooms (44 singles €74, 44 doubles €85, 5 triples €98). PZJAR6ULGKW hhh

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Winter 2013/14

LOCAL FLAVOUR

Photo by Vlasta Štalekar

Food Markets If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won‘t want to miss the farmers‘ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you‘ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you‘re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you‘re not short-changed or given spoiled produce?

Culinary Events 07.12 Saturday - 28.12 Saturday

The Little Market in the Attic

I-2, Sinkovićeva 8, sjediijedi.tportal.hr. Many people feel they‘d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market in the Attic (Mali plac na Tavanu) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Literally held in the attic of Jelena Nikolić, a food stylist and blogger, the market is during December open every Saturday and you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It‘s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.

06.02 Thursday - 09.02 Sunday

Zagreb Coffee & Chocofest

www.zagreb-chocofest.hr. Are you a chocolate and coffee addict? Then this delicious event is a must for you to attend! The festival exhibits some of the finest coffee and chocolate by Croatian and foreign manufacturers. It includes local and international coffee producers, as well as appliance and equipment manufacturers, displaying products alongside coffee shop owners selling an array of chocolates and coffee mixtures.

07.03 Friday - 16.03 Sunday

Zagreb Restaurant Week

info@tjedanrestorana.com, www.tjedanrestorana. com. Mirroring in the footsteps of major cities across the world, Zagreb‘s finest restaurants will once again open their doors to all visitors, offering their finest three-course menus at discounted prices. Book your seats in advance as last year was a succulent success.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Don‘t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an openair market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest). It‘s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city‘s markets they‘ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market. Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it‘s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun. See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That‘s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn‘t raised on artificial substrate so it‘s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it‘s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they‘re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that‘s a trick to add weight on the scales).

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LOCALFLAVOUR FLAVOUR LOCAL The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it‘s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it‘s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It‘s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule. If you‘re a vegetarian, you‘ll want to avoid the meat section where you‘ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it‘s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there‘s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal. Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or made with goat‘s or sheep‘s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island. A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you‘ll meet you‘ve probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you‘re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There‘s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.

A visit to rural households The heart of the city offers many places to visit and eat but it doesn’t stop there. If you head out of town, rural households offer relaxation and some long-forgotten delicacies that were once common in the area. For most households, the food that you eat comes from the proprietor’s own stock as is the bread or polenta which is prepared by hosts. When following tradition, late autumn is the time for making a variety of pork delicacies. Townsfolk make sausages, smoke meat, dry ribs and do many other things so as to store dry foods for the upcoming winter. Hence, this is the perfect time to try out a variety of traditional meat products such as jelly or aspic (cooked and chilled pork soup with herbs and root vegetables) , which served as a cold appetizer , ham or pork leg with sauerkraut , beans, sauerkraut with smoked meat , blooded sausage (seasoned sausage with garlic and blood) with potatoes, cabbage rolls, pasta with cabbage. Venison stew with beans and pumpkin. Salads that are eaten at this time are mostly soured summer vegetables such as sour peppers, cucumbers, p i c k l e s (m i xe d vegetables) and beetroot.

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Winter 2013/14

LOCAL FLAVOUR Local Dishes Here in Zagreb we‘re at the crossroads of a number of culinary influences. For centuries, this was part of the AustroHungarian Empire so it‘s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you‘ll hear plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time from the coast is ever shorter. Zagreb is a magnet for immigrants from across the country (and beyond), who bring with them fresh approaches to cooking which are adopted with enthusiasm by the locals. But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms? Here are a few examples. Probably the best known dishes which truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices), and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there‘s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese which, though popular, probably doesn‘t quite count as traditional food, but can be worth trying for the stunningly sized portions. Something you might find on lunchtime menus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak. This is an all-in-one meal usually made with chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings. Then there‘s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that‘s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk. Gwyneth Paltrow would certainly raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with granadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you‘ll find herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina and you‘ll find stalls selling cheap clothing. Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay homage to the summer. As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish market. The place hasn‘t changed in the past 30 years; it‘s one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals gather from dawn to chew over the day‘s gossip. The smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you back just a few euro. The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good fish sections and much more. So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food, good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.

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Wine tasting 08.03 Saturday

Pink Day Zagreb – The 2nd International Specialised Festival of Rosé Wines B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.womenonwine.com.hr. Organised by the WOW Association (Women of Wine) who will also be celebrating International Women‘s Day. Winemakers, chefs, bakers, wine journalists, sommeliers, bloggers and writers from Croatia and Austria through to Hungary will be partaking in this gastro bonanza. Foremost, this will be a celebration of rosé and sparkling wines mixed with a jamboree of culinary and artistic guests, wine workshops, lectures, round table discussions, book presentations, and more. By the way, the theme colour is pink so be sure to pink‘n up your attire! Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JB Bornstein C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61, info@bornstein.hr, www.bornstein.hr. This is a boutique wine store in town and its run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its new owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement. Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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LOCAL FLAVOUR prežgana juha) - a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, it is still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy. You can try these foods in Zagreb‘s traditionalstyle restaurants - see our Restaurants pages for listings. Or if you‘d like to roast a turkey at home, we can recommend locally-reared heritage turkeys from “Puran zagorskih brega”, which you can order on (+385-49) 32 90 66.

Winter is coming, and so is the Food In this area, the main food found on the dining tables of all homes during winter is sauerkraut, kiseli kupus, also called the doctor of the poor as it thrives well; there is plenty of it, and for this very reason it is inexpensive and available to everyone. Sauerkraut holds a large amount of nutrients which is why it is an extremely healthy food. The most popular dish made from sauerkraut is sarma - or stuffed minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves; then there is sekili goulash, which is a fine combination of pork and chopped sauerkraut. Sauerkraut is usually served with either grilled sausages or buncek ham - dried pork forearm, or with blood sausages and hash-browns. Beans are a winter gem as they are also plentiful and ever so popular when served with sauerkraut in a stew; they can be combined with barley in a ‘broth’. And last but not least, turkey with dumplings is a slam bam seasonal special. So, when in Zagreb, do as the Zagrebians do and your appetite will become a lot more wholesome. Winter is simply not the same without these hotly prepared tender foods that keep us resistant to the outside cold and prepared in traditional ways to be enjoyed by all! We can’t remember ever having a single bad meal in a mountain lodge. The smell of sauerkraut, sausages, cottage cheese with cream, strudel, mulled wine... and the list sumptuously goes on! Mountain lodges are places where you can still eat ‘old school style cuisines’ just as our ancestors used to in old Zagreb’s pubs - and still do in many homes today. Without a doubt, you will often see families of all generations, friends, and people who still have that one thing in common – a love of hiking and good food that awaits them at the end of the road... So, if you’re a fan of the great outdoors and you enjoy a good walk in the hills, the closest hiking spot is of course Mount Medvednica, which is crisscrossed by about 70 hiking trails of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty. The most popular destinations, as we mentioned before, are hiking lodges. Over the weekends, these are buzzing with walkers eager for the tasty and warming food at astonishingly reasonable prices. Apart from about ten hiking lodges on Medvednica, other popular hiking trails end at interesting spots such as the Veternica Cave, the Zrinski Mine, and the fortifications at Medvedgrad, Susedgrad, and Zelingrad (of these, Medvedgrad has been renovated while the other two are ruins). “Horvatovih 500 stuba” is another spot worth visiting. Translated as “Horvat’s 500 steps”, these really are 500 steps hewn into the rock by the hand of one Vladimir Horvat (1891-1962), a journalist, publicist, photographer, and nature lover who wished to make this part of the mountain accessible for everyone to enjoy. At the bottom of the steps is a valley with a stream where the public-spirited Mr Horvat built benches and a shelter that you can still use today. Then there’s Kraljičin zdenac, a pleasant spot where you can buy a drink and rest by a natural spring (the “Queen’s Well” mentioned in local legends). There’s the Gorsko zrcalo (“Mountain Mirror”) cliff, used as a climbing wall, and Šumarske jaslice (“The Forester’s Nativity”), where you can see life-size figures from the Nativity carved in wood. Then of course there’s also Sljeme, the highest peak on Medvednica, with its TV tower (it has a café with a terrace offering a fantastic view over the city), plus there’s hotel Tomislavov Dom with its spa and a handful of rustic restaurants nearby You can buy a map showing, for the most part, the easier routes together with landmarks, for 20kn

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Winter 2013/14

LOCAL FLAVOUR at the Medvednica Nature Park headquarters and at weekends at the Bliznec info point 100m before the headquarters. Also, if you’re a Croatian speaker be sure to visit the blog www. medvednica.info, where you’ll find loads of information, maps, photos, and ideas for places to visit.

Medvednica Lodges Glavica Hiking Lodge Glavica bb, Medvednica Na-

ture Park, tel. (+385-) 091 598 61 10, http://glavica. wordpress.com/. A mountain lodge with beautiful views of the western part of the city and located near the Veternica Cave. It can be reached through paths from Gornji Stenjevac or Podsused. There’s even a little playground there for the kids. QOpen , Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Grafičar Hiking Lodge Malo Sljeme, Medvednica Nature Park, tel. (+385-1) 455 58 44. A lodge at the intersection of many mountain roads, not far from the mountain top and surrounded by forest. Open every day except Mondays, accessible by car. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Puntijarka Hiking Lodge (Ivan Pačkovski Hiking Lodge) Sljemenska cesta 4, tel. (+385-1) 458 03 84,

Return to the past and choose from a rich array of fish at the Zagreb market (ZGH Archives)

www.zagreb-matica.hr. Perhaps the most popular and most visited lodge, since it is located on the main Sljemenska Road. There’s a huge open space in front of the lodge for car park. The hiking trail, Bikčevićeva (18) begins at Bliznec and brings you to the lodge itself. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Risnjak Hiking Lodge Pongračevo b.b., Medvednica, nataradu@gmail.com. A mountain lodge that is easily accessible through the path from Mikulići and with a fantastic view of Zagreb. QOpen Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Runolist Hiking Lodge Sljemenska cesta 4, tel. (+385-1) 455 75 19, runolistsljeme@gmail.com, www. runolist-sljeme.com. This mountain lodge is also accessible by car from the main Sljeme course with an additional few more minutes needed along the gravel road. Access via foot on the Sljeme course can be completed through the Leustikova trail from Gračani. It is open every day with accommodation available. There is a small glade with a super view of Zagreb, too. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Speciality food shops Asian Cash & Carry K-4, Ivanićgradska 33, tel. (+385-1) 230 02 57. Asian groceries. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Eko Sever C-2, Dolac Market, tel. (+385-) 091 720 65 02, eko-sever@eko-sever.hr, www.eko-sever.hr. Organic vegetables and fruits. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Grga Čvarak G-4, Kutnjački put 9, tel. (+385-1) 889 50 36, grgacvarak@xnet.hr. Organic fruits and veggies. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Harrisa C-2, Masarykova 3, tel. (+385-1) 779 48 36, info@harissa.hr, www.harissa.hr. Spices. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Konoplja&Co C-2, Prolaz sestara Baković 1, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 55 konopljaco@gmail.com. Organic hemp storeQOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kućarin C-1, Krvavi most 3, tel. (+385-1) 562 12 33, info@kucarin.hr, www.kucarin.hr. Spices and local Croatian products. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Orijent shop H-5, Lanište 32 (Arena Centar), tel. (+385-1) 410 13 95, info@orijent-shop.com, www. orijent-shop.com. Oriental spices and delicacies. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. December Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

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Paprena kuća H-4, Pakoštanska 5, tel. (+385-) 091

665 03 00, ivaknezovicpoznic@gmail.com, www. paprenakuca.com.hr. Spices. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Pekinška patka E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 098 22 69 66, info@pekinska-patka.com.hr, www.pekinskapatka.com.hr. Asian products. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Pinklec Delicija E-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Croatian products. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Ruske delicije D-2, Vlaška 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 65 33. Traditional Russian food. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Stari majstori F-3, Milivoja Matošeca 5, tel. (+3851) 555 92 82. Dry meat products from game. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Svijet okusa B-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 580 01 03, info@svijetokusa.com, www.svijetokusa.com. Spices. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Svijet piva K-2, Maksimirska 16, tel. (+385-1) 615 59 33/(+385-) 099 243 89 74, svijet.piva.zg@gmail. com, www.svijetpivazg.wix.com/svijetpiva. Variety of local and international beers. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. The Pantry C-1, Tkalčićeva 38, tel. (+385-1) 484 53 82. Delicatessen. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A

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RESTAURANTS Croatian 5/4 E-2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54,

rezervacije@petacetvrtina.com, www.petacetvrtina. com. The team at 5/4 are all about the revival of Croatian cuisine and paying full respect to the environment through their selected menu, cooking practice and savoured ingredients. Owner Dino Galvagno has embarked on a serious adventure by taking traditional Croatian cuisine and giving it a whole new contemporary approach. The entire story is rounded off with a splendid interior which at first may seem fashionable, but once you’ve tried the food, you will see a clear connection between the ambient and the menu. This is a restaurant of indulgence, where your palate is given new meaning and best of all where you will not be left hungry. For lunch, an à la carte menu (from 30-120kn) is offered, while for dinner a five-course menu for 290kn, a seven-course menu for 410kn or a 12-course menu for 570kn is available!QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42, www. konoba-burin.com. An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they‘re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn) PAGW Gallo B-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn) PAGBW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica‘s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it‘s great news that they‘ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (68 - 130kn). PJAGB Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma‘s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don‘t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn) PJAGB Tač H-2, Vrhovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, info@ restac.hr, www.restac.hr. Meat. This is what you‘ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking. On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you‘ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 120kn) PAILGBXW Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94, info@trilogija.com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (75 - 140kn) PJAGW

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Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi

Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05, www.vallis-aurea.com. You‘ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 70kn) PAGBW NEW V Starem Melinu Junkovićev put 2b, tel. (+385-1) 346 31 32, vstaremmelinu@gmail.com, www.vstaremmelinu.hr. The spirit of the past is revived through this age old restored watermill, a cultural monument on the preserved farm of Croatian feudal lords at the edge of Medvednica Nature Park. Old cuisines naturally go best with homemade bread, baked from milled grain, the exact way it used to be done in the 16th century - the authentic wooden furniture certainly contributes to the warm and homely atmosphere as well. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (55 - 100kn) ALGBXW

Winter 2013/14

RESTAURANTS

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Ethnic Asia D-3, Augusta Ĺ enoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia.doo@gmail.com, www.asia.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact itâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). PAGW California Burrito B-2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64 73, www.burrito.hr. Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican import, and is most suitable for a Friday evening after-work wind-down. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 27kn) PVNGBSW Delicija Libanesi J-3, RadniÄ?ka cesta 48, tel. (+3851) 604 01 39, info@delicija-libanesi.com, www.delicijalibanesi.com. For centuries, the Lebanese have travelled around the world sharing their amazing cuisine. Now, they have finally come to Zagreb. Enjoy some authentic hummus or baba ghanouj appetizer followed by kafta or shish taouk meat and delight your palate in an explosion of flavours. Decorated in a simple but classy style, the white walls adorned with oriental rugs create the perfect atmosphere for meals and special events, like belly dancing! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn) PAGBW Mr Chen K-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269d, tel. (+3851) 618 76 18, www.kina.hr. In the new VMD office block on the corner of RadniÄ?ka and Vukovarska, this Chinese

Zagreb In Your Pocket

restaurant is pleasently clean and bright.The food is fresh, very tasty and light, portions are nice and big, and we were impressed by the fast and polite service. QOpen 11:00 23:00. (25 - 130kn) PALGBW NEW Royal India C-1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@gmail.com. A welcome addition to Zagreb, the Royal India occupies the same spot as a former fish restaurant. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s nothing fishy here, however, and the menu would be looked upon favourably at any Indian restaurant across Britain. Portions might be smaller than

Budget Pithos B-3, Ĺ˝erjaviÄ&#x2021;eva 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 43 82,

pithos.zagreb@gmail.com, www.pithos.hr. Zagreb should count itself blessed as more places open, dedicated to freshly prepared food. Pithos, perhaps, sparked that trend, having been open 7 years now (and expanding in size in 2014). With ingredients sourced each morning, and no leftovers (or freezer in which to put them), the menu can vary in content as the seasons progress. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s a small size, so no large parties, but you simply have to try their soup, the unofficial Croatian national dish. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (30 - 40kn) PNGB Zalogajnica â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kod Dujeâ&#x20AC;? J-3, MartiÄ&#x2021;eva 62, tel. (+385-1) 461 06 43. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;re east of the main square and fancy a decent, quick and inexpensive meal the local way, head to the park by the Kvaternikov trg marketplace. This simple and decent little spot offers a range of homestyle dishes such as sarma (soured cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice, cooked in delicious sauce), stuffed peppers, and a selection of meaty and bean stews. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (15 - 50kn) ABW

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RESTAURANTS

preferred, but this is easily fixed and you will be guaranteed to leave with a full, and satisfied, stomach. Well worth fasting in advance of a visit here, just to make sure you can clear your plate. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 80kn) PAG Sofra K-4, Radnička cesta 50 (Green Gold Centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Once you‘ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (24 - 98kn) PALGBXW Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@ takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you‘re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you‘re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you‘ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). PAGW NEW Umami Grill C-1, Skalinska 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 86 09. A small place on Skalinska, and perhaps easily missed, but once inside you’ll wonder how so much can fit. There’s seating inside for perhaps a small dozen, and terraced seats of course, but it’s the menu and the food which must come first here. There are no wrong choices on this menu, and it is the best pad thai this reviewer has had in a long time. Prices are eminently affordable and great value. Perfect for an early lunch (or late lunch), or whenever, whilst wandering the old city. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (15-39kn) A

staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu‘s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn) PAGW Bardot Bistro B-2, Ilica 73 (courtyard), catbardot@ gmail.com. Perhaps the first thing you‘ll notice once you‘ve entered the restaurant is the artwork adorning the walls. Bardot‘s commissioned several artists to recreate their work from Branimirova, near the main train station. It‘s also hard to miss the stage, where a piano and other instruments await musicians to fill the space with jazz or soul. A French restaurant, with Croatian food, the most telling thing about Bardots is that there is no freezer; everything is 100% fresh. Try the steak tartar or anything from the fish menu. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (48 - 380kn). AB

International American Steak & Grill House C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), info@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www. hotel-dubrovnik.hr. For a restaurant based in one of Zagreb‘s busiest hotels, slap bang in the middle of the city, this place is deceptively sedate. Well air conditioned, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff, and wonderfully spacious for the taller diner this American Steak and Grill House will prepare and cook your meat to specific recipes. Getting hungry just typing this. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (39 - 139kn) PAGBW Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This ‚oasis of enlightened hedonism‘ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Winter 2013/14

RESTAURANTS Chic & Cheerful

Lauba Bistro (Photo by Marko Miščević)

Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11,

info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig‘ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn) JAGBW

Vegetarian Elixir Raw Food Club D-1, Ribnjak 8, tel. (+385-1)

561 76 31/(+385-) 091 164 14 85, info@artofrawfood. com, www.artofrawfood.com. The first thing to note is that this is a members club, not a restaurant, so you will need to call ahead in order to reserve your table; membership will be taken care of once you arrive. Everything on offer is naturally prepared, with no preservatives, and indeed no actual cooking. Staff will be more than happy to recommend something to your taste, and certainly the menu is quite varied and unique for Zagreb. For the less adventurous there are eminently palatable snacks and drinks which even the most devout carnivore will enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (48 - 65kn) PNGBW Green Point C-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67. Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to satisfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, including hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favourite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right on the spot. ‚Green is in‘ even in Zagreb and satisfies your urges for happy, healthy, dine-and-dash choices. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). JAGW NEW Zrno Bio Bistro B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@bio-zrno.hr. A vegan restaurant in Zagreb? Surely not! And yet here it is, in a sheltered courtyard, and looking solid. 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There‘s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn) AGW

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Bistro RougeMarin K-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It‘s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). AGBW Bistro Šalša H-3, Kostelska 11, bistro.salsa. tresnjevka@gmail.com. Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (30 - 40kn). PNGBSW Cušpajz C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487 50 45. Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you‘ll never get bored and will want to come back again and again for more. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PJNGB Lari & Penati D-3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76, info@laripenati.hr, www.laripenati.hr. Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you‘ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the latest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn) PAGBSW Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 90kn) PAGBW Mimice D-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24. As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la Dalmatia, which is usually eaten standing up at the ‚bar‘ that hugs the restaurant‘s walls. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (16 - 35kn) PNG

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

COFFEE & CAKES Cafes Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03 66. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb‘s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Chill, laid back, and the meeting place of the Association for the Promotion of Cultures ‚Kulturtreger‘, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax. There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis, and every second Thursday offers up and coming bands and artists a chance to showcase their talents. A far-reaching vision indeed. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. A quirky sort of place, which is a rarity around Zagreb. Sitting on a corner it‘s ideally situated to provide shade and shelter, in equal measure, depending on whether you want to dodge the sun, or rain. The interior

Snacks

Orijent Patisserie

Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99

42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner‘s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. PNGBXW Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa.hr. Zagreb‘s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema‘s website for upcoming features. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. PJBW

Divas

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is below street level, and the interior must be seen at least once, to be believed; barber‘s chairs and ceramic urinals (non-functional) are dotted around the room. A handy spot to relax for any reason. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Nonsmoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli‘s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli‘s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. PJGW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www. flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you‘ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can‘t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PJAGBW Jutro C-2, Teslina 9, jutrouteslinoj@gmail.com. Sitting outside of this small coffee shop you could be forgiven if you imagined yourself on an island in the Adriatic. Set just off the street this cafe sells only Croatian homemade produce as well as acting as gallery for some fantastic art pieces (all of which are for sale). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‚Complaints Book‘) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. JBXW

Winter 2013/14

COFFEE & CAKES

Booksa Cafe

Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1)

550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 00 01, info@retro-nightcaffe.com, retro-nightcaffe.com. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‚bugger off‘ serves in place of a ‚closed‘ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PNBXW U Dvorištu B-3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. Best described as one of Zagreb‘s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you‘re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that‘s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@ velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it‘s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‚library‘ section and lose track of your day‘s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

Small Plates and Sweet Treats Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84

49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. PJGW Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PNGBXW NEW Mak na konac E-2, Ulica popa Dukljanina 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 66 54, www.maknakonac.com. The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free, diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc. Open 9 - 9, there’s no excuse to pop your head in and see what’s on offer. More expensive than other places, but well worth it. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@ meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H-3), tel. (+3851) 369 75 39. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNG Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ymail.com. There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PNGW Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGBW

Eli’s Cafe

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

NIGHTLIFE Alternative AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11. org, www.pierottijeva11.org. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists‘ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb‘s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don‘t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what‘s going on. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb‘s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer‘s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it‘s best to keep track via the web.

Mojo Bar, wine rakija & Co

Bars Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03

06. There‘s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre‘s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Melin C-1, Kožarska 19. Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb‘s most famous streets, Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings. Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. EBXW

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Bikers Beer Factory

Mojo bar, wine rakija & co. D-2, Ulice fra Grge Martića

5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, marin.levaj@gmail.com. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg Hrvatskih Velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. X Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) A-4, Savska 14. This nononesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what‘s there not to like about a place that doesn‘t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb‘s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven‘s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PBXW Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 309 58 85/ (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 01:00. PBXW

Jazz in Zagreb Catching a top notch jazz gig in Zagreb is definitely doable, Croatian and international jazz bands perform regularly. In saying that, there is no venue with a regular every day jazz programme and this list will shed light on the fact that certain venues do hold jazz concerts at least once a month. Bacchus Jazz Bar C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Ex Kinoteka A-2, Kordunska 1. Sax D-3, Palmotićeva 22, www.sax-zg.hr. Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall I-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www. vip-club.hr. Zagreb Student Centre B-4, Savska 25, www. sczg.hr. Zvonimir Bajsić Studio Prisavlje 3 (Croatian Television), www.hrt.hr.

Winter 2013/14

NIGHTLIFE Vintage Industrial Bar I-4, Savska cesta 160, tel.

(+385-1) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to winddown. And best of all, you don‘t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

NEW Klub. D-3, Pavla Hatza 14-16. Created as part of the new Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub. is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located underground. It is accessible through the recently opened Joe Strummer Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n‘ roll and indie to electronic and punk at one of Zagreb‘s newest hotspots. Q Open Wed - Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PABXW Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can‘t miss. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NX NEW Shock Show Industry - D Katran - Trim kabinet 5reković J-3, Radnička cesta 27bb (door No 17, 2nd

Taban Hostel Bar

Clubs NEW Green Gold Club J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-) 099 256 33 23, www.greengoldclub.com.hr. Open 24 hours, for daytime café lovers and nightclub owls, Green Gold includes five establishments connected together in one place- Green Gold Club, VIP area, Aussie Bar, Escalator Bar and Pizzeria Al Metro. It offers a variety of live music nights featuring klape and tamburaši to foreign DJs. You can move around the clubs listening to Croatian folk music in one spot to popular American bands in another. Located in Zagreb‘s business district, it‘s a great place for corporate functions, a birthday celebration or an all-out bachelor bash. To ensure seating, call ahead to reserve a table for you and your friends. Q Open 22:00 - 05:00, Mon, Sun 22:00 - 02:00. PEXW Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With cheap beer and live shows most nights, there‘s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock‘n‘Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PGX NEW Kino Klub Jadran Film L-1, Oporovečka 12. Located in the outskirts of Zagreb, this club is worth the drive out to Dubrava. Created as part of Jadran Film, one of the best known film studios in the region, between the 1960s and 1990s, Kino Klub offers a unique atmosphere not found in other clubs. Photographs of producers and old films are displayed by the bar, while red, white and black walls offer a simple and relaxing decor. Don‘t miss out on experiencing a night out outside of the center! QOpen ,Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed January. PGXW

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Zagreb In Your Pocket

floor left), ssipopis@gmail.com. Located in an alleyway in Zagreb‘s business district, this grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,‘ by locals. It‘s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don‘t forget to make a reservation ahead of time. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 07:00. EXW VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club. hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb‘s best musical performances. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-)

099 848 56 63, bikers.beer.factory@gmail.com, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers‘ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGB Sheridan‘s Pub Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn‘t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia‘s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They‘re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you‘re fond of your pint of plain then that‘s a good thing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

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WHAT TO SEE Essential Zagreb

St. Mark’s Church (Photo by Vesna Špoljar)

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There‘s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count‘s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj

bb, www.zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it‘s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. QZoo is open 09:00 - 16:00 (December, January), 09:00 - 17:00 (February), 09:00 18:00 (March), ticket office is closed an hour earlier. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you‘ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby. St Mark‘s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn‘t been touched since. Today you‘ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it‘s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it‘s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you‘ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don‘t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it‘s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It‘s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn‘t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You‘ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you‘re starting to understand is very unique too!

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured

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Flowers (Photo by Vesna Špoljar)

Winter 2013/14

WHAT TO SEE

Museums Archaeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

Technical Museum Archives present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski

tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you‘re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

muzej) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hsm@hsmuzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe‘s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. U

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a ‚seen-it-all-before‘ narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman‘s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović‘s photos of 1981‘s I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. The quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311, or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 15 - 30kn. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia‘s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920‘s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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WHAT TO SEE Horrible Histories Crna kraljica (The Black Queen). There are several

legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband‘s absence. And here‘s where the stories diverge. Was she a merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On the one hand she is said to have refused water from her plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on. Grička vještica (The Witch from Grič). Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales. Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named “The Witch from Grič”. Sadly, none of Zagorka‘s novels have been translated into English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we‘re here to tell you the tale of Zagreb‘s most famous witch. The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the men who failed to conquer her. The hordes of men were always milling around her stall on St Mark‘s Square. This put poor Barica in court, accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the helpless males. In those days it didn‘t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica‘s tale. He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at that time educated folk were starting to protest against witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the stake (this time with the help of the notary who had been paid off by Barica‘s lawyer). Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: there were great numbers of women - and men - who were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born more than a century after the last “witch” was burned at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination. A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring readers today. So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb‘s upper town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful woman remember the tale of Barica! Kameni svatovi (Stone Wedding). Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”, and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands, the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia. According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named

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Janja, turned to stone. The miller‘s family was wealthy and his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable match for such a family. But as often happens when the heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man. The miller‘s mother was beside herself, but her husband stood by his son as he himself had started out without a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding turned to stone still stands today. This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself. Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge). In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and one of the places where such altercations would take place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name: Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scary-sounding name.

Medvednica Nature Park Archives

Winter 2013/14

WHAT TO SEE

Photo by Vesna Špoljar

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn. The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Top 5 Secret Things to See A portrait of the daughter of Samuel Berger.

Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned Croatian painters. Girl with a Bird. Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and fauvism when painting his portraits. Liber linteus Zagrebiensis. A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text. Located at the Archeological Museum in Zagreb, this is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript. Stjepan Erdödy Jump. Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents one of the first photographs taken in Croatia. The Holy Trinity. This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter, who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter Virgines.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren‘t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sci-

ences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptoteka@hazu.hr, www.gliptoteka.mdc.hr. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

A memorial plaque was placed at Ilica 8, for the artist and master performer, Tomislav Gotovac, who left this address naked and headed toward the main square where he performed, ‘Zagreb, I Love You,’ on November 13, 1981.

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WHAT TO SEE Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1,

Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

their hands until 1793. The oldest part of the complex is the late gothic palace which was their residence. The palace is surrounded by four semi-circular renaissance towers, and this complex was encircled by a defensive wall with a bastion. The views from its hilltop are fabulous. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Top 5 Sights Around Zagreb Gallery Joseph Generalić in Hlebine (Galerija Jo-

sip Generalić - Hlebine) Ljudevita Gaja 75, Hlebine, tel. (+385-48) 83 64 30/(+385-) 098 971 38 46, 098 951 45 96, galerija.josip.generalic@kc.t-com.hr, www. galerija-josip-generalic.hr. Naïve art is a famous technique of Croatian painting with motifs of village life a key figure. See some of the gems created by Generalić as well as personal items, family photos, pictures, and drawings depicting his life. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Admission 5 - 10kn. Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej krapinskih Neandertalaca) Šetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina,

tel. (+385-49) 37 14 91, mkn@mhz.hr, www.mkn.mhz. hr. The Neanderthal Museum in Krapina was opened in February 2010 and is a brilliant day out. Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience. It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered. The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig. Q December, January and February Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. March Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 25 - 50kn. Modić-Bedeković Kurija Donja Lomnica, tel. (+385-1) 622 13 25, muzej-turopolja@muzej-turopolja.hr, www. muzej-turopolja.hr. Built in 1806 by assessor Petar Modić, it is the best preserved kurija in Turopolje. As was traditionally the case with these two-storey houses, the ground floor is given over to storage and utility rooms, while the living quarters are upstairs. A grand room called the palača was reserved for receiving guests, and by all accounts there were plenty of them here, as the Modić‘s entertained the cream of Croatian literary society. The house is still furnished and decorated in 19th century style. The interior walls are plastered. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn. Trakošćan Castle (Dvorac Trakošćan) Trakošćan, tel. (+385-42) 79 62 81/(+385-42) 79 64 22, dvor@ trakoscan.hr, www.trakoscan.hr. One of the, if not the, best kept castle in the country built in the 13th century and later redecorated in the 19th century. It encompasses a ballroom, chivalry room, a library room, classical weaponry… Set next to a lake with magical views. Fantastic in the searing summer heat or frozen winter snow. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 15 - 30kn. Veliki Tabor Castle (Dvor Veliki Tabor) Košnički Hum 1, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 34 39 63, dvt@mhz.hr, www. velikitabor.com. Veliki Tabor is one of the best preserved late medieval and renaissance fortified settlements in inland Croatia, and is a mighty construction indeed, dominating a hilltop and visible for miles around. It was built by the aristocratic Rattkay family in the 16th century, and remained in

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Trakošćan Castle (Photo by Darko Vurušić)

The Museum of Street Art www.muu.com.hr. Little by little, street art is coming to life in Zagreb. The Museum of Street Art is bringing art to parts of the city which until now didn‘t have much in the way of art or culture. Every year since 2010 there have been more and more local and international artists taking part in an event which, over a period of a couple of days, brings to life empty canvases in the shape of walls where fantastic murals and pictures appear, expressing thoughts, opinions, wishes and ideals. Thanks to these artistic interventions today the length of Branimirova ulica is a riot of colour, as are parts of Dugave and Siget. The last intervention in September 2013 painted the walls of the Jedinstvo Factory.

Concerts in Mimara 2013/14 The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. The city‘s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U 17.12 Tuesday Lana Genc (piano) at 20:00. 28.01 Tuesday Marko Žepić (violin) feat. Richard Wieser (piano) at 20:00. 11.02 Tuesday Pavel Kandrušević (viola) feat. Marija Mikulić Štimac (piano) at 20:00. 25.03. Tuesday Pjeter Guralumi (cello) feat. Tamara Jurkić-Sviben (piano) at 19:00. Winter 2013/14

GETTING AROUND

Public Transport Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10

00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at www.zet.hr/tramvaj/.aspx. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver, on kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www. zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 6kn/hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 3kn per hour. Martićeva 69 D-2, Palmotićeva 25 D-3, Ilica 45 B-2, Petrinjska 59 C-2, Langov trg D-1, Kvaternikov trg J-2, Tuškanac B-1, Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb C-4, Importanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 D-2, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 C-1, International (near BCI), Čazmanska C-4, Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 I-4, Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 D-3, Cvjetni Centre, Varšavska (B-2)

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Buses

Photo by Rocco Zorić

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr. Zagreb‘s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia‘s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia.

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GETTINGAROUND AROUND GETTING Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33,

zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It‘s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Street Parking/SMS Parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 8kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 4kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 160, 80 or 30kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office

In Your Pocket Mobile Photo by Sandra Štimac

Taxis Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

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(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. It has finally arrived to our city. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5.50kn whilst the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

Winter 2013/14

SHOPPING Photo Gallery raZGlednice C-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 566 43 13, www.kristijantabet.com. This is a must visit spot for any tourist (or resident) who finds themselves fascinated with the architecture and pace of life of the Croatian capital. It‘s small, to be sure, but within you will find photos, of all shapes and sizes, reflecting the aforementioned elements of the city. Some are rather straightforward, while others will have you mesmerised. Prices are set to suit all pockets and only great things lie ahead for this establishment. For the month of December, photographer Kristijan Tabet has relocated his gallery to the main tent on Trg, where he is exhibiting his stunning work over the holiday period. Perfect for last minute presents.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N

In September 2012, Matija Čop took part in the biennale Croatian Design 1112 exhibition, at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, and won in the category of best student work for his project City Lace/Object 12-1. In the project City Lace, Matija focuses on the themes of mapping and cartography. The work is based on the research of textiles created to present Zagreb’s city streets in the form of a lace pattern.

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1)

659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/ soping-centar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, rk.ilica@ nama.hr, www.nama.hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com. hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Art galleries By transforming city roads into fabric, the hidden identity of urban life is discovered. He uses two types of different materials in the interplay of sculptural forms (voluminous) and manipulation of textural material: white leather is used as the new outer skin or exoskeleton and green cotton fabric as soft tissue.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481

33 70, galerija.grubic@gmail.com, www.galerija-grubic. com. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić, Kraljević, Bukovac, Vidović, Stančić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING Galerija Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485

16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com.hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Inkubator (Tkalčićeva 30) C-1, tel. (+385-1) 557 77 37, info@galerija-inkubator.hr, www.galerija-inkubator. hr. Contemporary art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Laudato Corde K-2, Maksimirska 10 (Kvaternik Plaza), tel. (+385-1) 461 11 11, corde@laudato.hr, www. laudato.corde.hr. Croatian sacred art. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri 17:00 - 21:00.

Souvenirs Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz. com. ‘All that is important, comes from within‘, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb‘s designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material. QOpen 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lega-lega B-2, Masarykova 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 53 69, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Zig Zag C-2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 561 73 45, www. medvescak.com. The ‚bear‘ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop

Golden Licitar (Zlatni Licitar) Traditionally, a licitar is a bright red biscuit that is shaped like a heart. It is beautifully decorated, with an icing-like swirl outlining its borders, along with flowers and a small mirror located in its center. Made of sweet honey dough, the licitar, has been a part of northern Croatia‘s cultural heritage, since the 16th century, when the original licitar makers were known as Medičari. Over the years, this colourful heart has become a traditional symbol of Zagreb and a classic souvenir. It is an attractive ornament that can be given as a gift to your loved ones to show your affection and warmth. Now, instead of being made by a baker, goldsmiths have transformed these symbolic hearts into dazzling pieces of jewelry. Their bright red colours have been combined with gold and silver to create necklaces, bracelets and brooches. Made using slightly different decorative styles, each golden licitar heart represents love in a unique way, with meanings behind each design, such as ‚love is the fire of life,‘ ‚love is the spirit of life,‘ ‚love is the foundation of life‘ and ‚love is the water of life.‘ As well, each heart can be further adorned with precious stones, rubies, sapphires, diamonds or corals to create a truly beautiful piece of jewelry. Show your affection for those you cherish in your heart with this time-honoured symbol of love. Lapidarium-Zlatarna Mario C-1, Radićeva 10, lapidarium@net.hr, www. zlatarna-mario.hr QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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SHOPPING

with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. JA

Specialty Stores Chill Shop C-2, Petrinjska 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 05

34, shop@chill.hr, www.chill.hr. The to-go place for an awesome selection of colourful skateboard and snowboards! QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Devil Store Zagreb B-2, Ilica 38, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 91, dsquared2ilica@gmail.com. Stop by for original footwear designs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Havana Cigar Shop B-2, Frankopanska 22, tel. (+3851) 539 04 67, zagreb@havana-cigar-shop.com, www. camelot.hr. Cigars, from Cuba, Honduras and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A The Back Door Store A-4, Savska cesta 144, tel. (+385-1) 619 13 88, thebackdoor144@gmail.com, www.thebackdoor144.com. Vroom, vroom! The perfect stop for clothing, shoes and gloves for motorcycle lovers. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Zelena stanica H-4, Moščenićka 15, tel. (+385-1) 383 97 14/(+385-) 099 502 26 06, zs@zelenastanica. com, www.zelenastanica.com. New Eco-bags for the environmentally friendly and ‘home boxes’ for indoor planting. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat by prior arrangement. Closed Sun.

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A good old vinyl Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05, stjepan.poslek@zg.t-com.hr. Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45‘ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia‘s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. We dare you to browse Free Bird‘s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kn. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They‘ve got a roomful starting at 300 kn. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. A

Art Shops Archaeological Museum Shop C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A Winter 2013/14

SHOPPING Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488

21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5 (passage), tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, info@prostoreshop.com, www.prostoreshop. com. A place for all lovers of design and creativity! A showroom with a wide range of products where works and new ideas by independent artists and contemporary designers act as inspiration for visitors. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) C-2, Tkalčićeva 61, javolimpms@gmail.com. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70, sasacvijece@gmail.com. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Zeleni slon B-2, Ilica 14, petrazabcic@yahoo.com. Accessorize with earrings, brooches, necklaces and tote bags made using creative patterns and animal designs. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian design Clothes A’marie B-3, Gundulićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 35

24, marijas@amarie-fashion.com, www.amarie-fashion. com. A young designer whose feminine and modern clothes are a hit among fashion editors. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Boudoir C-1, Radićeva 22, tel. (+385-) 091 481 34 64, www.boudoir.hr. A famous duo of twins whose creations are nostalgic, womanly and full of romance. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J

Gallery Gabriel Zigman

HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A Iggy B-2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 83, igrajna@gmail.com. Croatian labels offering a wide selection of skirts, shirts, slippers and many more local creations. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Jasmina i lutkice D-3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. A beautiful and unique collection of homemade dolls and stuffed animals. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Kloto B-2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr. Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Zagreb In Your Pocket

Glass Art Atelier Staklić - Gabriel Gallery E-1, Voćarska 25, staklic@

staklic.hr, www.vitrajidominique. com. Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier „Staklić“ is led by Academic painter Dominique Jurić who has mastered the magical technique of making stained glass windows in France and Switzerland. Glass Art Atelier ‚‘Staklić‘‘ is the only place in town where you can see a permanent exhibition of stained glass windows by Dominique Jurić. She has held numerous exhibitions both national and abroad and has spread her love of art to the Gabriel Gallery. In addition, original Zagreb souvenirs from the Gabriel‘s Gallery production are on sale which represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Keep the magic of Zagreb with you with the ultimate glass souvenir. The hosts will kindly meet and greet you and explain the process of making each souvenir. Simply announce yourself earlier by email: staklic@staklic.hrQ Open 09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

CITY CENTRE SHOPPING Ulični Ormar D-2, Jurišićeva 16, tel. (+3851) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

Galerija Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel.

Stripovi C-3 Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1)

Food

12 33, info@kucarin.hr, www.kucarin.hr QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00

Clothes

Kućarin Spice and Croatian products store C-1, Krvavi most 3, tel. (+385-1) 562

483 77 77 prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hrQOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00

Konoplja&Co C-2, Prolaz sestara Baković 1, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 55, konopljaco@gmail.com QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

PMS - Prostor Manufakturne Slobode

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Comics

(+385-1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net. amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com.hr QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

Food B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome.hr, www.takemehome.hr QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

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Galerija Laudato D-2, Iblerov trg 10 (Importanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 464 68 88, www.galerije.laudato.hr QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00

Winter 2013/14

Gifts & Souvenirs

Take me Home Croatian design shop

Gifts & Souvenirs

C-2, Tkalčićeva 61, javolimpms@gmail.com QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING

600TOGO by Ana Šesto (at Zeleni Slon, Lovački rog, Ilica 14)

Zagreb‘ s brands Take home a true souvenir or gift from Zagreb as we highlight 5 potential beauties which can easily be found around town. The following gifts are gems that have their history, or their specialized taste, or such a good feel about them that the fond memories will surely remain. Baltazar A classic cartoon made in Zagreb during the late 60’s that had kids glued to TV screens. Professor Baltazar is a quirky, unique and gifted scientist whose witty inventions uplift the lives of Baltazar Town’s inhabitants. See 59 episodes that last between 5 to 10 minutes with an English version available. Copies are available at both Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55 book store. Penkala A gentlemen named Slavoljub Eduard Penkala patented the first mechanical boil pen in the world in 1906 and shortly after invented the first ink pen with firm ink. He went on to patent 80 other inventions. In his honour, the TOZ Penkala Factory in Zagreb continues to produce Penkala products, replicas of the original pen can be bought at Peroklinika C-2, Ban Jelačić Square 15, tel. (+385-1) 481 80 26 and Narodne novine D-2, Trg žrtava fašizma 15, tel. (+385-1) 461 25 57. Frank’s ‘ciglica’ Coffee devotees step back and get the sugar cubes ready. Sure the Italians have Illy and Lavazza, but Croatia has its own brand in Franck. The company produces many famous food items but the Franck 250gram ‘ciglica’, is second to none and can be found in all grocery shops. So wake up and smell the coffee! Kraš - Griotte and Bajadera Over 100 years of history and the chocolates, fine desserts and nougat products made at the Kraš Company continue to melt in your mouth. Two of their specialties ‘Griotte’, a dessert made with real cognac, cherry and fondant poured into a chocolate mould and ‘Bajadera’, a sweet nougat chocolate have maintained both their flavours and fans alike for decades. Kraš shops can be found across the city and at the main Bus Station. Zagrebački Melem Pamper yourself with Zagreb’s authentic all purpose cosmetic cream in Melem. It comes packaged in various natural skin protection products such as lip balm, face and hand creams amongst others. Melem is also known as the universal family cream and you can find it in all pharmacies.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Charlie design D-2, Vlaška 43, tel. (+385-1) 487 65 45, charlie-design@hi.t-com.hr, www.charlie-design. hr. Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials. Friendly staff. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Donassy D-2, Amruševa 11, tel. (+385-1) 481 01 88/ (+385-) 091 481 01 88, branka@donassy.com, www. donassy.com. Feminine garments created using avant-grade artistic designs. Q Open by prior arrangement. Galerija Boja D-2, Jurišićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 481 76 72/(+385-) 091 569 16 63, vladina@galerija-boja. hr, www.galerija-boja.hr. The devil - or the glamour - is in the details...velvet, lace and detailed buttonwork set these clothes apart. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Jolie Petite H-4, Albaharijeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 383 73 26, web@joliepetite.com, www.joliepetite.com. Unique and handmade garments each created to suit an individualized style. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

Jewellery Oblak C-2, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 91, diana.zelmanovic@gmail.com. One-of-a-kind pieces by the Croatian designer Dijana Z. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Otvoreni atelier Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 492 16 68, atelierlumezi@gmail.com. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. Also at C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon in Contempori Likum), Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Thesaurus B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 5, tel. (+385-) 091 536 33 18/(+385-) 091 516 62 22, www.thesaurusjewellery.com. Nice, rich jewellery made of precious metals and natural materials mostly inspired by Far East. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Shoes&Accesories Anita F-4, Tijardovićeva 20 (Across from Hotel

Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 388 69 44, ashoo@ashoo. net, www.ashoo.net. A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita‘s shoes are

Comics Lastan J-3, Radnička cesta 22, tel. (385-1) 605 58 82, lastan@lastan.hr, www.lastan.hr. Comic fans will sigh ‘I think I’m in heaven’ upon entering this small comic shop with thousands of strips on offer. It encompasses a comic library, gallery and souvenir section. Authors and illustrators are known to hold book signings and presentations there! QOpen 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Stripovi na kvadrat C-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www. stripovi.hr. An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here. Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A zagreb.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING More style for less cash Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line. Ulični Ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+3851) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot‘s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers‘ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman‘s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. A

Ulični Ormar

Zagreb In Your Pocket

walking sex. Also at D-2, Martićeva 19, tel. (+385-) 091 781 14 78. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

Cahun C-2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 49 75, www.

cahun.hr. Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made from all kinds of material. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Bonkulović Delicacies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre

Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic.com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. December Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Čajoteka B-2, Jurišićeva 19 (Rotonda Center), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@cajoteka.info, www.cajoteka. info. All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Caprilo C-2, Bakačeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-42) 39 96 44. Local dairy specialist Vindija displays its finest in Caprilo delicatessen. This milk-based wonderland provides plenty to taste and enjoy in the heart of the city center. Perfect for a souvenir stop or afternoon snack. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. JA Gligora C-2, Dolac Market, tel. (+385-1) 580 12 84, www.sirena.hr. Award-winning Pag cheese manufactures from Kolan, located on the Island Pag. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kandit D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www. kandit.hr. Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. JA Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja.com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www.naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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SHOPPING Pinklec Delicija E-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. So much more than sustenance, a wealth of Croatian culinary mastery lay only a few minutes from the main square where it fills this speciality delicatessen. Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered

Luxury Burberry C-1, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www. burberry.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

December Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Givenchy C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 492 96 00, www.givenchy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kenzo B-2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 19, www.kenzo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Maria B-2, Masarykova 8, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 11, info@mariastore.hr, www.mariastore.hr. One of the most exclusive multi-brand shops in Croatia and their second luxurious conceptual boutique. Indulge yourself in some of the most prestigious designer collections by fashion greats such as Alaia, Lanvin, Valentino, or Saint Laurent, for the ultimate chic shopping experience. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Max Mara B-2, Masarykova 17, tel. (+385-1) 485 40 09, www.maxmara.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA XYZ H-5, Arena Centre, Lanište 32, www.xyzstores.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Staša Čimbur along with most any other palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com