Zadar In Your Pocket summer 2009

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZADAR Summer 2009

Secret treasures

Find out about the history, tradition and culture that makes Zadar a landmark of times gone by.

N°6 - complimentary copy

www.inyourpocket.com

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

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CONTENTS

3

Absolute Pearl

Contents Arriving in Zadar

5

Wherefore beer?

Basics

6

Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History

7

Why? Why? Why?

Culture & Events

9

Everything that´s on in Zadar

Go gourmet

15

Food for the soul.

Where to stay

17

Hole up for the nihgt in style (or disrepair)

Restaurants

21

Food goes in your tummy. Mmmmm.

CafĂŠs

25

35

Geting around

36

All dressed up and somewhere to go?

26

Or your thang.

What to see

Mail & Phones 21st century smoke signals.

Where to sit and sip

Nightlife

13th International Festival of Contemporary Theatre Some of the performers are: Strange Fruit (Australia), Da Motus! (Switzerland), Adam Read Company (Germany), Via Negativa (Slovenia), Rosa Casado (Spain) & Mike Brookes (UK), Theatre National de Bretagne (France), Mini teater (Slovenia), Theater &TD, New theatre (Croatia)...

Sport

42

Why the Croats are such good basketball player 29

Eyes front

Shopping

45

Help you get rid of that extra cash Dugi otok panorama

Business Directory

47

Lifestyle Directory

48

Zadar County Islands Nin - Zaton Biograd Agrotourism

49 52 54 58

Zadar Districts

60

Maps & Index County map City map/Street index City centre map Country map zadar.inyourpocket.com

61 62 64 66 Summer 2009

4

ARRIVING IN ZADAR

FOREWORD Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone! A comprehensive guide to the city’s architectural monuments will dazzle sightseers, not to mention our special on the ancient fortresses that were built in defending this gem of a city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an adrenalin rush, can fill their calendars with adventure sports throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to nibble and dine. We wish you all a sensational summer!

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Zadar In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1334-9228 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Znanje d.d., Zagreb

Zadar In Your Pocket

Tourist information Info centre

D-3, Mihe Klaića 5, tel. 31 61 66, info@tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00 Zadar tourist board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5 tel. 21 24 12.

Zadar County tourist board A-3, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, tel. 31 51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr; www.zadar.hr.

By boat Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula.

All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

See the “Getting around” section for contact details for schedules and all ticket sales.

Cover story All aboard....dear readers as our front cover provides a wonderful view of the Zadar peninsula which leaves visitors breathless. The old town is located at the peninsula and on the horn of the Istarska obala the famous Sea Organ and Salute to the Sun are located.

If you get a chance to fly above the peninsula, you are in for a very special experience when you find yourself above a city through which ancient Romans used to walk.

Tourist information

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Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 21 15 55 Bus travel is the preferred method of public transportation for earthbound Croatians, because it remains, for the time being, the quickest and most comfortable way of getting around the country.

Prices are reasonable: a single ticket to Zagreb costs around 125kn. There are frequent links to all Croatian cities and, especially in high season, abroad.

The bus station on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Changing money: Contus and PPZ travel agencies have exchange bureaux, and there are two ATMs on the platform concourse. Left luggage: the garderoba is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 1.20kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Shops and cafes: At least one snack bar works all night, and news kiosks, bakeries and a mini-market are all open from about 06:00 to 22:00, except weekends, when they may close earlier. There are several cafes where you can take the weight off until your connection arrives. Private bus companies: Contus runs the most comfortable services to Zagreb and Split.

Drop by their office on the platform (open 06:30 - 22:00), or call 31 44 77 / 31 42 02, or look at www.contus.hr. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs.

A 8kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 13kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips. Taxis: Call 25 14 00 / 31 72 88 for minicabs.

Editor’s note

zadar.inyourpocket.com

By car A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays.

If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

If a strong “bura”, a northeast wind, is blowing, the motorway bridge closes. This rarely happens in the summer, but if it does, you can now use the reopened Maslenica bridge, which was destroyed in the war. It’s far more sheltered from these winds. Take the old road to Maslenica which runs parallel to the motorway.

For up to date traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr. They have regular updates in English, German and Italian. Also listen out for foreign language reports for tourists on local radio.

By plane Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar tel. 31 33 11. Flight info tel. 20 58 00, www.zadar-airport.hr Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city.

Changing money:OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

By train Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info line: 060 333 444, www.hznet.hr The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners in the past failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes, but the situation is somewhat improved in 2006 by the advent of high speed “swing” trains. This means that you can now travel between Zadar and Zagreb in under seven hours, including a change at Knin. The fastest connections leave Zagreb for Zadar at 06:50 and connections in the other direction leave Knin (Split) at 10:52 and coming in Zadar 13:12. Full price adult fares are 204kn single and 385kn return - considerably more expensive than the slow train, but much faster and very comfortable.

This summer, there will be night trains between Zagreb and Split with sleeping cabins and transportation for cars. One such train leaves Zagreb at 22:55 which arrives in Knin at 04:40, where you can either drive on or continue by passenger train to Zadar. Journey time is about 7 ½ hours.

The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 06:10 - 10:15 and 13:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. A kiosk outside the main entrance works from 06:00 to about 21:00. Getting to town: see “By bus”. See also ‘’Getting around’’ for schedule.

 Zadar telephone code is +385-23 zadar.inyourpocket.com

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BASICS

HISTORY

Customs

Roads

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. For further details www.carina. hr or call (01) 610 23 25 / 610 24 61.

Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%.

But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it.

Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways.

On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms.

Having al ways existed on the frontiers of three church es; Cath olic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has be come overwhelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 12 April 13 May 1 June 11 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zadar County: 162,045 Zadar (April 2001): 72,718 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.

It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure!

Zadar County: Zadar County measures 7,854km2, of which roughly half is sea. The islands belonging to Zadar County measure 580km2.

Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zadar it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Safety

You will surely find Zadar to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night. Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings.

Smoking

A total ban on smoking in public spaces (including all cafes, restaurants, bars and clubs) came into force on May 6.

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialize outdoors until well into the autumn, the ban has had next to no effect on people’s lifestyles thus far. What it does mean is that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are even more packed than usual. But it has never been easier to find a spare seat at even the most popular restaurants if you’re prepared to move inside.

With its turbulent past, Zadar is sometimes said to be a microcosm of the history of Croatia. Here’s a (very short) version of what happened.

Prehistoric races are thought to have been the first settlers here during Neolithic times (possibly as far back as 8000 BC), and to have given the place its first name Jadera – probably something connected with water. Remains of these settlements can still be found in the present-day districts of Puntamika and Arbanasi.

In the 8th century BC, an Illyrian tribe known as the Liburnians – great sailors and merchants – first settled the area, and by the 7th Century BC, Jadera had become an important centre for their trading activities with the Greeks and the Romans.

The First Croatian University

By St Dominic’s church stands an attractive old white stone building, part of the Dominican monastery complex, with a plaque proclaiming its pride in being the first site of a University on Croatian soil. Established in 1396 by the Dominican monks, this puts Zadar up there with famous seats of learning such as Cambridge and Barcelona (1303), Heidelberg (1385), Charles University Prague (1348), (but not quite so old as Padova (1222) and Paris (1229). Zadar’s University focuses on humanities, and one can’t help envying those students: one look at the yellow Faculty on the Riva shows you that there are worse places to be than by the sea…

In the middle of the 2nd century BC, the Romans began to gradually invade the outlying lands, and a hundred years later, probably during the reign of Julius Caesar, Zadar finally became a Roman colony. As usual, the Romans brought great civilisational advances, examples being hot air central heating in homes, and an aqueduct to Vransko lake 40km away, the remains of which are still visible in the eastern district of Arbanasi. Many other relics of this era are preserved or lie abandoned in today’s Zadar. The Roman colony lasted for several hundred years until waves of marauding tribes battered the region.

Forced to turn their attention seawards, the inhabitants of Zadar focused on shipping, and the city became a naval power to rival Venice. It was around this time that rebuilding began to take place. For example, at this time (the 9th century AD), St. Donatus’ Church was built.

By the 5th Century AD, the Ostrogoths ruled, and the city crumbled. The following century, what was left was devastated by an earthquake, and the Goths left in 537 to go home and listen to their Sisters of Mercy records. Although further waves of attacks by Avar and Slav tribes kept up the pressure, Zadar became the administrative centre of Dalmatia under Byzantine rule, since it was the only city which survived due to its protective belt of inland plains.

Meanwhile, the Croatian state was forming inland, and trade and political links with Zadar began to develop. Croatian settlers began to arrive, becoming commonplace by the 10th Century. Zadar sought independence from Byzantium, and in 1069 was joined by treaty to Croatia under Croatian King Petar Krešimir IV. In 1102, the Croatian-Hungarian state was formed, and in 1105 Zadar officially recognised the authority of the Croatian-Hungarian kings.

Toilets

Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail yourself of their facilites. If you prefer to save yourself a few kuna, there is a public WC on the marketplace (cost - 3kn).

Water

Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

100

20

75

10

50

0

25

-10 -20

J

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M A M

J

J

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S

O

N

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0

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HISTORY The rivalry with Venice intensified, and at the end of the first millenium the Venetians began a series of onslaughts and occupations that were to last over three hundred years. In 1202 the Venetians launched a particularly bitter attack with the help of the Crusaders, whom the Venetian Doge used in his march towards Palestine. This ended in 1358, when, in a peace treaty concluded in the Franciscan church, Zadar was handed over to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou.

Despite all this violence, between the 11th and the 14th century a golden age of art and culture was nurtured behind the protective walls encircling the city. Zadar still played a key role in the administration of Dalmatia, and enjoyed growth in political and commercial life. Architecture dating back to this time includes the Cathedral of St. Anastasia, and many other churches, monasteries, convents, palaces and public buildings.

In the 15th century, internal fights within the Croatian-Hungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia, and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued – this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.

In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague, however, ravaged the city.

In 1699, peace was concluded with the Turks signalling the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in 1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the Austrians took the city back again in 1813.

The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved, and the first modern city water system was completed in 1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awarness of national identity, began to press for linguistic and political autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled, giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade.

Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In 1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid – the first town in what is now Croatia.

In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the 1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast, including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.

CULTURE & EVENTS 13th International Festival of Contemporary Theatre - Adam feather

www.inyourpocket.com Zadar's Protection Squad Zadar has four patron saints. If that seems a bit excessive, read the History section, you’ll soon understand why. Here’s the gang: St Simeon – Sveti Šimun Saint Simeon (or Simon) is said to have been present at the birth of Jesus, which is probably why women wishing to bear a son appeal to him. This also explains why he is the most popular patron saint: around here, the birth of a son occasions much quaffing of rakija and Tarzan-like chest-beating. The saint’s body is kept in an amazing casket which is opened every year on October 8 (see Essential Zadar).

St Chrysogonus – Sveti Krševan St Chrysogonus (or Grisogono in Italian) is the main patron saint of the city: the City of Zadar Day celebrations are always held on St Chrysogonus’ day (November 24).

You can see him riding a horse on Zadar’s coat of arms and flag. He was persecuted and beheaded by Roman Emperor Diocletian (who built the palace at Split).

St Anastasia – Sveta Stošija St Anastasia was also martyred under Diocletian, and is also said to have been present at the birth of Christ. She cared for persecuted Christians, and unfortunately met the same fate herself – she was tortured and beheaded.

Her remains now lie in a marble reliquary in the Cathedral, which is dedicated to her.

St Zoilo – (no translation available) The least well-known of Zadar’s keepers, St Zoilo rescued St Chrysogonus’ body when it was washed up on the shore, and buried it at his home in Venice. Although Chrysogonus had been beheaded, his body was miraculously whole. For this and other kind acts, St Zoilo’s relics were brought to Zadar after his death.

However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica (or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town, date back to this time. Industry developed and the population expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the 1960s, the importance of tourism grew.

Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of 1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and bombarded from positions further afield for most of the duration of the war. The population was forced underground, surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.

Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding is now taking place in every sense.

Research Library and Historical Archive Zadar’s Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb. It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks.

It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural

Zadar In Your Pocket

and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia, under many colonial powers. The documentation kept here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s legal and political past.

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July 6 The Capella Cantorum Choir (USA) at the Sea Organ Now if you haven’t had the chance to visit our sea organs on the Riva, then this will provide further incentive as this American choir, which is travelling the Mediterranean and holding concerts across different ports, will perform in the traditional capella style.

July 11 – August 5 The 49th Musical Evenings in St Donatus’ If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you.

The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. The City Forum (B-3), St Donatus’ Church (B-3), St Simeon’s Church (D-3), the Cloister of St Francis (A-3).

Jazz Evenings Enjoy those summer nights as some of Croatia’s finest musicians perform an array of jazz concerts at the city square.

June 28 & August 8 Bruna Carioca & Blue Bossa July 5 Green House Blues Band July 8 Wes Mackey & Blues Train Band July 12 Zdenko Ivanušić and Jazz Quartet July 26 & August 19 The Jazz me do Quartet August 1 Swing Tom & The Twisters August 16 Jazziana Croatica August 19 Zdenko Ivanušić and Jazz Quartet September 5 Green House Blues Band

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The 15th Summer Theatre June 29 – August 3 One of the city’s traditional summer events with theatre performances and musicals to be held in the evenings and set amidst historical grandure.

A repertoire of local and foreign art performances are scheduled. This year’s programme is divided into two: Part 1 presents a drama and dance programme whilst Part 2 is the musical programme called The contemporary music festival.

June 30, July 1 & 2 at 21:00 Aldo Nicolai: Nije bila peta, Bila je deveta Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 6 at 21:30 Arijana Čulina – Za Europu spremni (Stand up Comedy) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 8 at 21:30 Željko Vukmirica – Petritza und Militargrenzemusik (Stand up show) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 10 at 21:30 Cinco i Marinko iliti Odnila ji lipa smrt (Comedy) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 13 at 21:30 Ivana Brlić Mažuranić - Regoč St Dominic’s Church July 15 at 21:30 Gola u kavezu (Comedy) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 17 at 21:30 Ivo Brešan – Predstava Hamleta u selu Mrduša Donja (Comedy) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 20 at 21:30 Roy Roberts Blues Band (USA) (Blues) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 24 at 21:30 Fabrizio Sotti / Sam Barsh / Mino Cinelu (Jazz) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) July 28 at 21:30 Defunkt Joseph Bowie & The Bastardz All Stars (Funk) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard) August 03 at 21:30 Massimo Dona Quartet & Daniele di Bonaventura Trio (Italy) (World Music) Deputy’s Palace (courtyard)

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CULTURE & EVENTS

CULTURE & EVENTS

The Museum of Ancient Glass

Zadar has changed beyond recognition in the last ten years, transforming itself from a forgotten Mediterranean backwater into a swanky city-break destination bursting with fine sights. Latest of the city’s attentiongrabbing attractions is the Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla), a state-of-theart archeological display that opened its doors in May 2009.

The museum is housed in the nineteenth-century Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls overlooking Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the finest collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites

July 16 Mitra Zonata The sea organ festival Mitra Zonata will be held on July the 16th on the Zadar Riva with the attractive man made Sea Organ and a salute to the sun. Famous Croatian musicians accompanied by klape combine with the echoes of the sea organ chords as they perform songs which are connected to the sea and traditional sailing boats which float across the Zadar Riva. Sea Organ – Zadar Riva.

July 21 Jose Carreras Opera lovers are in for a treat as one of the world’s greatest vocalists Jose Carreras performs together with Celine Byrne (soprano) and conducted by David Gimenez Carreras alongside the Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra. Make sure you’re in front of the Church of Holy Mary and on the remains of the Roman Forum at 22:00.

July 23 Folk ensemble Lado Write this into your social calendars as a must see event. Lado is the most famous of all Croatian national folk, dance and song ensembles. They have performed on some of the world’s finest arenas enlivening audiences with their authentic folk and instrumental stage shows. St Mary´s Square (C-3), from 21:00.

Zadar In Your Pocket

across Dalmatia – notably Z a d a r (a n c i e n t I a d e r), Nin (Aenona), StarigradPaklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe (Asseria).

H i gh l i gh ts i n c l u d e th e delicate, graceful vessels used by Roman-era ladies to store per fumes, skin creams and essential oils.

These treasured items of domestic glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners – much of the collection comes from excavations at Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.The replica Roman glassware museum on sale in the museum shop makes it one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.

As part of the museum t h e r e i s a s o u ve n i r worksh op wh ere you can learn more about the almost forgotten craft of blowing glass in a school purposefully made for just that.

Feštice Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda – white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s restaurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.

July 25 DM Millennium Jump When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event which is being held for the third year in a row. It’s the ‘Millennium Jump’, where over 2500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organs through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science. The city is literally a buzz with contests, concerts and so much more on between 13:00 and 20:00.

Donations will be accepted to help raise funds for the Latica Kindergarten for children with special needs. You can also leave donations at local hotels and camps. The day prior to the event, a special concert will be held by two famous Croatian opera singers Sandra Bagarić and Marina Tomčić.

They will perform with The Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra at 21:00 in front of the Church of Holy Mary. On the day of the jump, the entire orchestra and singers will partake in the Millennium Jump. The photo taken on that day will be a great souvenir from Zadar! So come on and jump in with us! Any excuse getting wet...

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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CULTURE & EVENTS Traditional accapella evenings One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klape (traditional accapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). ‘Klape’ groups gather to make for an enjoyable evening in the Zadar Main Square (Narodni trg).

August 1 The 37th traditional swimming marathon Preko-Zadar Put on those swimsuits and find your way to the Preko Riviera, you can catch the ships which leave for Preko at 07:30 as the event starts at 09:00. By 10:00 the first swimmers are expected to arrive at the Kolovare pools.

The swimmers will compete in 5 different categories: general male and female, recreational men from 30 to 45 years of age and for women who are over 30 as well as recreational over 45’s. Fun and fitness for all.

August 1 Vlatko Stefanovski A Macedonian rock group led by guitarist Vlatko Stefanovski that made head waves in the former country throughout the 1970’s and 1980’s with their epic yet psychedelic rock sound. Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1 (B-2).

August 7 – 14 13th International Festival of Contemporary Theatre - A Zadar of Dreams This is the meaning of “Zadar snova” a rather more avant-garde cultural festival, held for the eighth time between 7 - 14 August. Expect modern dance, new film, exhibitions and workshops in comic strips, theatre, humanitarian events, music and drum’n’bass DJs and more.

Unmissable! The City Forum, St. Donatus’Church (B-3), St Dominic’s Church (D-3).

July 30 Amarosi Ensemble These two gents from Zagreb have played at leading music festivals, appeared on TV throughout the world; including CNN, and found a compatible form of producing sound through bottles. Oh yes, the octane sounds are truly heard here in what really is spectacular and yet unique. Busking for a living does have its benefits!

Worth the look! Zadar Main Square (Narodni trg). Visit www.amarosi.com

August 8 Saljski užanci As tradition stands, you will be invited by a band of young musicians dressed in ceremonial outfits who march through the town playing a horn type instrument.

And that’s when the fun begins; donkey races, klape (acapella singers), Croatian musicians, folk ensembles and local gourmet.

This bonanza is held in Sali on the island Dugi otok.

August 16 Jazziana Croatica This is a musical project by the drummer, painter and poet Borna Šercar who has gathered some excellent musicians: Ante Gelo on guitar, Zvjezdan Ružić on piano, Tihomir Hojsak on double bass and Vojkan Jocić on saxophone. The idea is to promote Croatian traditional music through jazz. Fusion we believe is the key word! Zadar Main Square (Narodni trg).

August 23 The Return of Marco Polo – The Silk Road World voyager and explorer Marco Polo travelled the so-called Silk Trail and introduced Chinese silk to the West. Well dear visitors, let’s turn back the time as this event revives history. The Histrion group actors along with Chinese actors will arrive on boat and re-enact this momentous event which bridged the gap between east and west.

The Full Moon Festival

July 31 – August 04 Zadar Cultural Forum Ready for a good time! Five days, plenty of active workshops and courses, multimedia, DJ’s and concerts with the aim of promoting different aspects of art and creativity especially with our youth. The evenings are dominated by gigs with a special appearance by American singer Howe Gelb and My Buddy Moose are the support act. Other foreign guests include punk rockers Six pack and Slovenian band Red Five Point Star. As for Croatian names we have Osijek bands Debeli Precjednik and Bud Spencer, Kadet and Empty Wallets from Split, Pula’s KUD Idijoti, the Split-Zagreb trio Death Disco and Zagreb’s bands Tigrova mast, Vikend in Hong Kong and The Welcomin’ Committee in Flames. 100kuna will get you in to all 5 concerts or each respective gig costs 20-35kuna.

Concerts held at the Dom Hrvatske Mladeži, book through zadarskikulturniforum@gmail.com. Workshops and courses are at the Zadar Home of Croatian Youth and the Arsenal Multimedia Club.

On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event. The Full Moon Festival (Noć punog miseca) takes place on August 6 this year.

www.inyourpocket.com Zadar In Your Pocket

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CULTURE & EVENTS Petrčane You are about to be confronted with a plethora of festivals that will make your mind boggle in regards to which to attend and why. The one thing you need to know is that they are all around a beautiful little fishing village called Petrčane. Its 900 years old with good, kind people and beautiful rustic restaurants. There is camping in the woods, old cottages and villas on the sea front, and sailing boats to be chartered giving visitors the opportunity to explore the mystical islands.

When summer hits, the beauty of this place is kept intact but with some modern refurbishments that turn it into Croatia’s Ibiza. You’ll find yourself partying under the stars and gazing out at the sea.

July 3 – 12 Garden Festival What to say? It attracts 1000’s and tickets are limited. Literally, the line-up is huge with DJ’s from all over the world; the festival runs for 9 days and nights, it includes the Argonaughty boat cruise which is a great party voyage out over the open sea by day and at night in particular, the entire place is a buzz. You can buy weekend passes but party goers you cannot miss this amazing experience. It’s a must! Visit www. wacththegardengrow.eu for all info, including DJ’s and stages.

Petrčane (near Zadar) July 17 – 20 Sound Wave Croatia Festival Another feast of frolics awaits with this 3 day festival led by DJ Yoda, Bonobo, Red Snapper, Lizzie Parks, DJ Vadim, Rustie and others. The setting is a sight for sore eyes with an outside Amphitheatre for live acts, a beach-side terrace jammed for day and night dancing, plus a 600 capacity nightclub where the beats augment right through the night. Prices are 48 - 60 € per ticket.

Barbarella’s Discotheque, Petrčane (near Zadar)

Musical mornings in Stomorica Everyone needs some time to mellow and throughout July and August between 11:00 - 14:00, various Croatian performers will perform ‘unplugged’ in the remains of the Church Stomorica (C-4). Sounds rather angelic! Well this might turn out to be an exceptional event alongside some morning coffee.

July 31 – August 2 Airbound The forces of gravity might be tested at Airbound! NOT! Rest assured as you’ll sip your cocktails amongst some of the best-loved DJ’s from around the globe. For fans of house and techno we have Berlins finest, Ben Klock and Marcel Dettmann. And if Disco floats your boat, we have Daniel Wang and Alexander Robotnik.

Leading the electronica charge is Nathan Fake plus Irelands very own Jape, Chymera and more. 59 Euros! Petrčane (near Zadar) August 13 – 16 Like Minded Festival This side of the Adriatic has become an epicenter of cutting edge music and the Like Minded Festival sets the benchmark for those who love to groove and chill n chat on their travels. The headline acts are Hector, Toby Tobias and Tristan Da Cunha amongst others. Don’t miss Phil Mison (Cantoma/Reverso 68/Café del Mar). Tickets are 52 - 58 €. Barbarellas Discotheque.

Expectations of Croatian cuisine are usually based around the rich diversity of fresh fish, squid, lobster and shellfish supplied by the Adriatic Sea. Unsurprisingly, this maritime bounty forms the backbone of most restaurant menus. However it would be a mistake to assume that this was all that local culinary culture had to offer. Croatia’s coastal regions have preserved a wealth of age-old regional specialities, many of which are coming back into fashion having for decades been looked down on as simple peasant food.

Home-made pasta with a goulash-type sauce is one Adriatic staple that is found in traditional konobe or inns all along the coast. Twizzles of home-made pasta called fuži are still common in Istria and the northern Adriatic, while the island of Krk has preserved the tradition of making šurlice, succulent macaroni-like twists made from flour-and-egg dough. These traditional pastas are usually served with some kind of lamb

The First Lady of the Adriatic The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea.

August 28 -30 Electric Elephant In its first year it attracted the masses, now in its second it’s bound to attract even more. Ooze into this wonderful mix of acoustic-folk psychedelic music over a moonlit stage, not to mention the spaced out beach parties that are on offer aswell. Get in early on the 2 boat parties that are on each day, 7 € per ticket.

The weekend ticket costs 80 €. For the complete line-up of live acts and DJ’s simply log on www.electricelephant.co.uk.

Petrčane (near Zadar) September 11 – 13 Exodus Festival As the summer season draws to an end the Exodus Festival maintains the heat wave of festivals in this part of Croatia. Once again it brings an assortment of live acts and DJ’s to this fishing village paradise. The festival brings out the best in reggae, dubstep, roots, soul and dance.

The Brkan Brothers When we talk about “Man and the Sea”, the respected international triennial of contemporary photography showcasing some of the most innovative techniques, it’s impossible not to mention Anto and Zvonimir Brkan.

Combining arresting visuals with coastal themes, they were key members of the progressive Zadar Photographic Circle, which founded the exhibition in 1957. “Man and the Sea” enjoyed particular acclaim during the ’50s and ‘60s, travelling to over 50 countries.

So, not only were they two of Croatia’s most important photographers, but they were also perhaps two of the people most responsible for breathing the spirit of Zadar out and over the rest of the world.

 Zadar telephone code is +385-23 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home – use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market for 10kn.

A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them – leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine.

When the fešta is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to try these for yourself at stands throughout the city. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a salad.

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or beef stew, depending on which form of livestock prevails.

Dubrovnik and the nearby islands are famous for šporki makaruni (literally “dirty macaroni”) a meaty goulash served with home-made macaroni and dusted with grated hard cheese. Other peasant staples which you will encounter up and down the coast include bobići (bean stew with sweetcorn) and maneštra (a thick vegetable broth). In southern Dalmatia, zelena maneštra (“green maneštra”) is made my boiling up the bones of a home-cured pork leg and adding potato and cabbage. Cabbage used to be a staple vegetable throughout the region, and still forms the key ingredient in arambaše cabbage leaves stuffed with minced beef, pork and bacon which are a speciality of inland Dalmatia, especially around the town of Sinj.

Anyone touring the Adriatic coast by car is sure to pass roadside restaurants where whole lamb carcasses revolve slowly over open fires in the car park. The resulting spit-roast meat is delicious served with raw spring onion and potatoes.

Lamb from the Adriatic islands and the Dalmatian hinterland is considered to have a particularly delicate taste, thanks largely to the wide variety of aromatic herbs scoffed by the beasts while grazing. Lamb from Pag is particularly tasty, on account of the crystals of sea-salt deposited on the sage-covered hillsides that serve as pasture.

Another highly individual local way of preparing lamb is to cook the meat in a peka, a lidded vessel which is placed in an open fire and then covered with embers to ensure a long slow bake. On the Dalmatian islands the peka method is also used to bake octopus, as well as the larger fish such as zubatac (dentex) or grdobina (frogfish).

Each of the islands has preserved highly individual dishes which can’t always be found on the mainland. Gregada (a mixture of fish stewed in white wine) is prepared by almost all the restaurants in Hvar, but rarely crops up in places which are only a short ferry ride away. The island of Vis is well known for a unique savoury pie known as the pogača, which wraps a salty fish filling (usually anchovies or sardines) inside light flaky pastry. These pogače are sold in all the bakeries on the island, although there’s a crucial difference in recipe depending on whether you buy it in the town of Vis or the town of Komiža (the Komiža version comes with a tangy dash of tomato).

Several islands are known for their spectacular sweets, many of which can be bought in delicatessens throughout the region. The Kvarner island of Rab is famous for the Rapska torta, a baton-shaped cake made from marzipan and rolled in sweet pastry. The inhabitants of Korčula are notoriously sweet-toothed, with locally-made kroštule (deep-fried pastry twists) and cukarine (crescent-shaped biscuits flavoured with orange and lemon) making the ideal tea-time treat. Paprenjaci from Korčula and Hvar are biscuits made from a blend of honey and pepper, not dissimilar to gingerbread in taste. In Dubrovnik you should definitely try rožata, a syrup-topped custard similar to crème caramel.

Pop your cherry One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local Maraschino cherries – a particularly aromatic variety, a little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when sugared up to the max.

As we all know, it’s the quiet ones you have to watch, and, like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal clear and syrupy) was first made by 16th Century monks, who called it “sun dew”. Apparently the fruits and young leaves of the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness of sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would be imbued with positive effects.

The city’s Maraska factory is the yellow building on the mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well as other drinks, for years. It’s something which the locals are rightly proud of.

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WHERE TO STAY

Posedarski pršut

Pag Cheese

Symbol key

Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy.

(And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham – a tastebud-tingling delicacy).

Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread, butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of olives and a good glass of red wine.

The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear the name Pag is “sheep”. The second is “salt”.

The barren, sun-baked terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam as Pag cheese

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Olive oil

Olives have played a small but integral part in world history, yet nobody ever really notices this. Think about it, winners at the first Olympics were given an olive wreath to wear on their heads, we extend an olive branch as a sign of peace, and even Popeye’s lanky girlfriend was named Olive Oil. The signs are clear, if olives are good enough for athletic glory, peace, and a belligerent sailor, they’re good enough for all of us.

By now we’ve all heard that olive oil is an integral part of the “Mediterranean diet” which medicine has associated with sensible portions and slower, more enjoyable eating. Studies have shown that those who partake in the “Mediterranean diet” to have a remarkable variety of health benefits. It’s even suggested that olive oil decreases the rate of cardiovascular disease and cancer. Rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, it helps lower dangerous blood cholesterol and is rich in vitamins and antioxidants. How about that? A combination of olive oil and a diet rich in vegetables and fish is healthy, delicious, and satisfying!

The Adriatic coast has a centuries old tradition of olive harvesting and processing to reap the benefits of olive oil.

From the northern coast to Dubrovnik and all the islands included, olive trees dot the landscape throughout the Croatian Adriatic. Olive oil today is still as important a part of the diet in Dalmatia as it always was. And in spite of some minor technological advances the process is more or less the same.

Olives are picked from the end of October to the end of the Christmas period, and there are a few of methods of doing so. Some pickers hack away at branches, collecting the whole thing and plucking olives off one by one later. Other growers use a rake to bring down the olives, or a more painstaking route is to pick individual goodies straight from the tree. The results are collected in a box called a Takalać, which the pickers later sift through to sort out the fruit from the twigs and leaves.

After the harvest comes the pressing part. Literally. Back in the day, the olives would be pressed on a stone wheel turned either by hand or maybe beast of burden. The olives would be set on a mat and put under the wheel, squeezing them to a pulp as all the juicy goodness ran out of them. Today,

Zadar In Your Pocket

President G-4, Vladana Desnice 16, tel. 33 36 96/ 33

34 64, fax 33 35 95, info@hotel-president.hr, www.hotelpresident.hr. All rooms are intelligent, freeing up your brain so you can concentrate on the business of having a good time; candles and matches are provided to create that comforting atmosphere. Truly luxurious. Q27 rooms (3 singles €125 - 168, 12 doubles €178 - 213, 12 Junior suite €296 - 352).

PTHA6ULGBKhhhh

Mid-range Donat F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. 20 65 00,

and thus deserve a good slapping. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself.

Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. most olives are no longer pressed by stone wheel, they’re drained using hydraulic presses. The rest of the process is really no different from the old school days. The first press yields the extra virgin oil, that is the oil of the highest quality, which must be made from green olives that are not too ripe.

Subsequent pressing of the pulp will get you more olive oil, but the quality isn’t quite the same as the first.

Some homes on the coast still use a stone basin to hold the oil, but usually it’s placed in bottles (glass is the best for the oil) and stored for the coming winter and summer. Once bottled, the oil has a lifespan of about 2 years. A lot of locals in Dalmatia sell their oil to tourists, and it’s good stuff. The oil should have a greenish tint and strong aroma. A liter usually costs about 15 Euro, but haggling can’t hurt. Get there and buy some home made oil, all of you!

This text has been created to acquaint the public with the olive growing tradition - it is not a scientific or expert text.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Up market Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. 49 49 50, fax 49 49 51, info@hotel-bastion.hr, www. hotel-bastion.hr. If you’re seeking accommodation in the historical centre of the city, look no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet at your feet.

The Garden Club is situated right beneath the hotel itself.

Q28 rooms (23 singles €163, 23 doubles €191, 3 suites €307, 1 President apartment €382, 1 Junior Suite €271).

PJHAFGBKD hhhh Falkensteiner hotel Funimation F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. 20 61 00, fax 33 20 65, r eser vations.borik@falkensteiner.com, w w w. falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel with modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at families with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua park, plus the galaxy of sports, activites and excursions. Family rooms can accommodate up to three children. Prices are per person per day, all-inclusive.

Q306 rooms (54 doubles €69 - 118, 88 Mini family €75 129, 53 Family Royal €83 - 138, 59 Family Suite €97 - 142, 4 Luxury Suite €400 - 800, 48 Junior Suite €90 - 120).

PTHAUFEBKDC hhhh Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. 21 10 17/ 20 32 00, fax 21 30 79, dario.kolovare@hoteli-zadar. htnet.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. The closest hotel to the Old Town recently got a facelift. Most rooms face an open air swimming pool and the beach at Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of well-to-do villas. Prices are per room per night, including breakfast. Q203 rooms (27 singles 750 825kn, 164 doubles 825 - 1320kn, 12 suites 1815 - 2145kn).

PTJHAUGBKChhhh

zadar.inyourpocket.com

fax 33 20 65, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. Part of the Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and you’re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options. Prices are per person all-inclusive. Q240 rooms (36 singles €57 - 75, 126 doubles €51 - 68, 34 triples €51 - 68, 44 Family Apartment €56 - 73).

PTHAEBKC hhh Hotel Marinko Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. 33 78 00/ 098 46 50 45, fax 33 36 16, info@hotelkodmarinka.com. A rather colourful new villa-style building, close to all the Borik amenities. All rooms are comfortable and air-conditioned, and have good balconies, although the view of the local Konzum may not be quite what you were hoping for. Prices include breakfast. Apartments available for 6-8 people. AMEX only.

Q21 rooms (17 doubles 420kn, 4 triples 500 - 550kn).

PALBK hhh Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. 33 75 00, fax 33 75 28, hotel-mediteran@zd.t-com.hr, www. hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close to the Borik complex and beaches. It’s a pleasant, clean family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and air-conditioning available.

Prices are per room with breakfast. Q30 rooms (30 singles 420 - 560kn, 30 doubles 520 - 660kn). PTABK hhh Porto R-2, Nikola Jurišić 2, tel. 29 23 00, fax 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr, www.hotel-porto.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about 15 minutes’ drive from the center offers reasonable prices, clean bright rooms, and decent food. It’s on the crossroads heading towards the airport and the Split highway, so it’s ideal for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103 rooms (11 singles €51 - 56, 74 doubles €36 - 38, 16 triples €28 - 30, 2 quads €28 - 30).

PHALBK hhh

 Zadar telephone code is +385-23 Summer 2009

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WHERE TO STAY Hostels Youth Hostel Zadar G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira

76, tel. 33 11 45, fax 33 11 90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of the large pavilions in Zadar’s youth hostel complex has been fully renovated.

Before now, the hostel was best avoided. If you’re lucky enough to book into the new place, you’ll pay a little extra.

Sports facilities and restaurant, friendly and helpful staff.

Prices are per person for bed and breakfast. Rooms for between 2 and 8 people. Q75 rooms (11 doubles €15 - 22, 8 triples €15 - 22, 34 quads €15 - 22, 2 5-bed dorms €15 - 22, 16 6-bed dorms €15 - 22, 4 8-bed dorms €15 - 22). HBK

Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. 33 75 70,

fax 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road to Puntamika, a beautiful Italian villa renovated to create a delightful hotel. Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two to four. Prices are per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 - 220). PALGKC hhh

Villa Nico F-3, Krešimirova obala 138, Diklo, tel. 33 11 98, fax 33 19 60, nico.moric@villanico.t-com.hr, www.hotelvillanico.com. Right on the seafront in the beach neighbourhood of Diklo a few kilometres west of the Old Town. All rooms have king size beds, satellite TV and mini bar. There’s a fitness centre and garage. Prices are for the room plus breakfast. Oh, and it’s pink! Q25 rooms (25 singles €50 - 80, 25 doubles €85 - 120).

PALGBK hhh

Zadar In Your Pocket

WHERE TO STAY Apartment rental

Basioli F-3, Krešimirova obala 116, tel. 33 11 29/

091 585 59 66, neven.basioli@zadar.net. Bright, modern accommodation in Diklo, balconies with fine sea views.

Rooms are air conditioned and have satellite TV. They have an equipment for daily trips to Kornati islands. Prices are per person per night. Q7 rooms (7 apartments €23 - 30).

PLB hhh Milin Živkovića 3, tel. 33 29 35, drago.milin@zd.htnet. hr. A family-style home with apartments in a residential part of Borik. Apartments can sleep up to five, and have air-conditioning, satellite tv, kitchenettes, terraces with sea views and secure parking. The English-speaking owners can lend you bikes. Q5 rooms (5 apartments €37 - 85).

PLB hhh Pansion Maria J-2, Put Petrića 24, tel. 33 42 44, 33 42 45/ 091 516 14 18, 091 518 19 16, info@ pansionmaria.hr, www.pansionmaria.hr. Conveniently located just north of the Old Town peninsula on the road to Borik, you have entertainment opportunities around you. The staff speak English, German and Italian. Prices are for rooms with breakfast, based on a stay of three nights or more. Run by a nice family. Q14 rooms (12 doubles €45 - 50, 2 triples €70). L hhh

Out of town

Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. 38 35 56/

29 07 00, fax 38 30 08, 29 08 98, ilirija@zd.t-com.hr, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar.

Close to the heart of Biograd and the town’s excellent beach, the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are per person including breakfast. Q105 rooms (5 singles €92 - 178, 95 doubles €55 - 105, 5 apartments €98 - 163).

PTJHAFLEBKDC hhh Aparthotel Lekavski Dražnikova 15, Zaton - Nin, tel.

26 58 88, fax 26 58 90, hotel@Lekavski.de, www.

Lekavski.de. A very attractive new villa, family-owned.

In the old centre of Zaton, with all its nightlife and leisure opportunities, and in easy reach of the sandy beaches. Clean and comfortable rooms; apartments sleep 2-4. Q18 rooms (14 doubles €41 - 70, 4 suites €76 - 130). PTALKC hhh Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv. Filip i Jakov, tel. 29 24 00, fax 38 86 19, margaritamaris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr. This lively little town south of Zadar has great beaches, and the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound. Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is also available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90 rooms (90 apartments 207 330kn). PHALBK hhh Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. 38 68 88, fax 38 68 80, recepcija@hotel-bolero.hr, www. hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built, recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and airy accommodation, a super terrace a restaurant and saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast included. Q 76 rooms (3 singles €59, 70 doubles €45, 3 quads €32).

PAEGBKD hhh Holiday Village Zaton Dražnikova ulica 76.Nin - Zaton, tel. 28 02 80/ 28 02 13, fax 26 42 25, sales.dept@ zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an attractively planted apartment village and excellent campsite placed to take advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Zaton.

Zaton has a huge array of activities, including water sports, horse riding, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and a popular nightclub. Q593 rooms (593 apartments €34 194). PTAUFLEBKCS hhhh

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Camping Autokamp Planik Ražanac, tel. 65 14 31 / 098

27 21 87, planik@planik.hr, www.autokamp.planik. hr. Ražanac is a village just before the bridge to Pag, with historic ruins nearby. The camp is excellent, with clean sand and shingle beaches. They offer excurisions, including rafting on the Zrmanja river as well as riding, yoga, aqua aerobics and activities for the kiddywinks.

Accomodation tax 2,50 - 3,40kn.Q(Person/per day €3 - 5, Tent €4 - 7, Car €2 - 4, Camping trailer €2 - 7).

Borik F-3, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel./fax 33 20 74, kamp@hoteliborik.hr. The Borik hotel complex is set in pine woods by a good beach; the campsite is pleasant and well-equipped. A few minutes’ bus ride from the centre - or the coastal stroll is far from unpleasant.

Shops, restaurants, and bars nearby. Q(Person/per day 36 - 53kn, Car or trailer 63 - 135kn, Parking 27 - 171kn, Accomodation tax 4 - 7kn. AKC

Islands Agava Božava, Dugi Otok, tel. 29 12 91, fax 37 76 82, bozava@zadar.net, www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in an idyllic island village, with a new swimming pool, sauna, jaccuzi, m a s s a ge , f i t n e s s cen tre, tennis an d di vin g in B ožava’s famous clear waters.

Recently refurbished, with accommodation in apar tments wi th kitchenettes. Prices are per person with breakfast, based on two people sharing. Q18 rooms (18 Family Rooms €206). PA6FKDC hhh Lavanda Božava, Dugi Otok, tel. 29 12 91, fax 37 76 82, bozava@zadar.net, www.hoteli-bozava. hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been fully refurbished.

All rooms have balconies with a sea view. Božava is perfect if you’re looking for peace and quiet in pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts.

You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above.

Prices are per person with breakfast. Q120 rooms (40 singles €95, 80 doubles €170, 40 Extra bed €43).

PA6FBKDC hhhh Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. 38 35 56/ 39 65 55, fax 38 30 08, ilirija@zd.t-com.hr, www. ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation.

The remaining floors are a little cheaper. Ample sports facilities close to the centre of Biograd. Prices per person including breakfast. Q168 rooms (160 doubles €55 - 105, 8 apartments €98 - 163). PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh

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RESTAURANTS

WHERE TO STAY

Symbol key

Reserve a room at zadar.inyourpocket.com Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. 38 35 56/ 35 83 33, fax 38 30 08, ilirija@zd.t-com.hr, www. ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean, comfortable, has a great location in a green spot near the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices per person with breakfast. Q106 rooms (102 doubles €50 - 98, 4 apartments €91 - 150).

PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, tel. 39 14 20, fax 39 14 21, info@marenostrum-hr.com, www.marenostrumhr.com. A new hotel in lavender-filled gardens right on the beach at Sveti Petar, a small town between Zadar and Biograd.

Delightful, modern airy rooms, all with air conditioning, satellite TV and great balconies with sea views. Friendly staff.

Prices are per person including breakfast. Q14 rooms (14 doubles €35 - 57). PALBK hhh Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. 20 25 00, fax 36 41 31, info@ pinija.hr, www.pinija.hr. A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta), spor ts and excursions.

Prices per person half board. 30% supplement for stays under 3 nights. Q340 rooms (24 singles €49 - 78, 216 doubles €41 - 68, 63 triples €41 - 68, 2 suites €41 - 68, 8 apartments €112 - 187, 27 Family Rooms €41 - 68).

PTJHAUFLEBKDC hhhh Villa Nela Punta Radmana, Put 7, Petrčane, tel. 36 46 60, fax 36 46 70, info@velcek-tours.com, www.velcektours.com/novo. A new villa with clean and airy apartments, and a sea-water pool in the delightful pine-shaded garden by the sea, where you can swing yourself to sleep in a hammock. Apartments can accommodate up to five; all have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the sea. Q12 rooms (3 Studio 440 - 750kn, 3 1-Bedroom 550 - 850kn, 3 2-Bedroom 680 - 1030kn, 12 apartments 440 - 1180kn).

PTJA6ILGBC hhh

P E T G O R

Croatian These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.

Albin H-3, Put Dikla 47, tel. 33 11 37, albin@zd.t-com. hr, www.albin.hr. A well-known restaurant in a small three star hotel, their fish soup is legendary, and they use their own amazing home-made olive oil. They also have premises in Lukoran on the island of Ugljan. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 150kn). PALB Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. 21 34 45. A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (45 - 90kn). PAB Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. 49 49 50.

Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. 25 45 01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (80 - 120kn). PJAB

Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet

A S U L B 6

Credit cards accepted Take away Facilities for the disabled Guarded parking Outside seating Animal friendly

Malo misto C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel.

30 18 31. The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music. QOpen 07:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 300kn). PNB Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. 33 78 00/ 098 46 50 45, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. Inside the new aparthotel, an ŕ la carte restaurant serving Croatian and Dalmatian dishes, all local produce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn).

PAB Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. 23 57 86, restoran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant, green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong enough to withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and a charcoal grill. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00.

(80 - 150kn). PAB Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, (Hotel Mediteran) Borik, tel. 33 11 88, hotel-mediteran@zd.t-com.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 110kn). PAB Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. 33 27 28.

Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising, apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada (beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine and vegetables). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 300kn). PAB Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. 21 32 75. A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

(40 - 300kn). PNB Vivaldi G-4, Vladana Desnice 16 (Hotel President), tel.

33 36 96, info@hotel-president.hr, www.hotel-president. hr. Their web page informs us that the cutlery is 90% silver.

But don’t eat the Beluga caviar with it, as it will destroy the flavour. Ask for mother of pearl or gold instead. The kitchen is not living up to the surroundings or the prices these days.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA Zadar C-4, Petra Krešimira IV, tel. 21 21 82. In the Hotel Zagreb building on the Riva, a simple restaurant with the nicest terrace in town. Dalmatian music and a nice atmosphere. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnautića 4, tel. 25 18 59, jadera@zd.htnet.hr, www.jadera.hr. A large, busy restaurant by St Chrysogonus’ Church with a wide choice of local and international meat and fish dishes. Perfectly respectable food at decent prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.

(65 - 90kn). PJAB Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. 21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard terrace. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). NB

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RESTAURANTS Italian Pet Bunara D-3, Trg Pet bunara bb, tel. 22 40 10, www.

petbunara.hr. Pizza, pasta’s, lassagne, meat & fish steaks, salades and desserts. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (35 - 140kn).

PAB Trattoria Canzona C-3, Stomorice 8, tel. 21 20 81/ 098 70 68 62. A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will be reassured it’s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

(40 - 120kn). PJNB

Konoba Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them. Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel. 098 40 33 22/ 32 50 25. A well-kept secret - an old stone house with only five or six tables. All the food and wine is excellent (as are the prices), but those in the know say it’s a good place in Zadar for octopus cooked ispod peke style. Bokanjac is just outside Zadar in the direction of Pag (see a good road map). When you reach the old village of Stari Bokanjac, you’ll see signs for the konoba. You have to order what you want to eat a day in advance, because everything is specially bought and prepared - call in, or phone. Very special. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 220kn). PL Martinac B-3, Aleksandra Paravije 7, tel. 091 579 98 83. An antique interior and flower-filled cour tyard complemented by family cuisine of a very high standard. We recommend the veal with tuna and caper sauce. For dessert, try Rožata (a speciality from Dubrovnik, something like crème caramel) QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 110kn). JNB Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. 31 20 04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural stone (check out the downstairs section). However, the food is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality, and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAB Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. 33 53 49.

On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 110kn). PLNB Skoblar D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. 21 32 36.

Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines.

Live music most weekends too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

PJALB Stomorica C-3, Stomorica 12, tel. 31 59 46. A very traditional Dalmatian konoba with outside seating, simple food such as grilled sardines, and decent prices. The kind of place where you’re likely to experience the locals burst into song. A gem. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. NB Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. 095 809 73 91/ 25 03 19, konobatrata@gmail.com. This konoba is set a sheltered garden with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple as its centrepiece. The menu is centred on ancient Dalmatian recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was the word for a big net used for communal fishing in old times. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB

Zadar In Your Pocket

RESTAURANTS Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. 31 87 00, info@

Pizza Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, inexpensive - and yummy. Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. 33 48 48.

A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNB Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. 33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 80kn). PALB Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. 33 42 46.

Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(40-45kn). PNG Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. 25 03 90. Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (35 - 70kn). PNB

Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. 31 22 26/ 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of our readers wrote in and told us that “if you’re looking for a restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can’t go wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately to a basic repertoire of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi, but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed that it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this simple. The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure, so the name (which literally means “I love it here!”) makes perfect sense. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (55 - 400kn). PAB

Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

Sabunjar Jadranska 99, tel. 34 03 55, tomislav.kurta@ zd.t-com.hr. Again, tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro.

QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn). PALB

tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

(75 - 200kn). ALB

Lunch on the cheap FreshPoint N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. 31 30

95. A cafeteria with a solid selection of cooked food like pasta and lasagne at decent prices. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. LB Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. 30 50 87. There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore are something like heaven. They’re usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving. Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant little place to munch decent ćevapi. Q09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (19 - 30kn). PLNB Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. 25 05 81.

Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas too.

Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention that here if you like having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNB Zalogajnica Ljepotica M-5, Obala kneza Branimira b.b., tel. 31 12 88. A large selection of cheap, fast, delights ranging from fish and pasta to meat dishes. Overlooks the harbor, easy to find. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (25 - 60kn).

PNB

Out of town

Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. 091 473 51 55. At the Marina, a great place to wind down at the end of a day sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of the same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable lobster. Thorougly recommended!

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). AB Belveder Tina Ujevića 17, Biograd, tel. 091 206 40 42, vid@belveder.info, www.belveder.info. Shellfish specialities - including buzara (cooked with white wine and garlic) - and goulash. Belveder has an atmosphere just like home, colourful and cosy. In the late hours, the restaurant becomes a laid back bar playing easy acid jazz. A pool room is open before 19:00 and after 22:30. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 120kn). JNBW Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.

38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd’s old town in a quiet corner by St Anastasia’s Church, the garden is the main attraction, with a clay pizza oven, green and cool with creeping vines and bright with sunshine. QOpen 11:00 24:00. PNGB Guste Obala Petra Svačića b.b., Biograd, tel. 38 30 25.

This seafood restaurant is well placed for yachtsmen, just across the road from the marina. They have a wide selection of fish and meat dishes, and a sheltered terrace overlooking the boats bobbing in the water. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (35 - 320kn). AB

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Kaleta Rudine, Sukošan, tel. 39 40 31/ 098 928 28 90.

“Kaleta” means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try their pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380kn). PAB

Kod Guste Sukošan bb, Sukošan, tel. 39 33 03, augustin.devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kod-guste.hr. A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended).

Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink). QOpen 13:00 23:00. (65 - 350kn). PN Konoba Branimir Višeslavov trg 2, Nin, tel. 26 48 66/ 091 587 08 39. A wonderful, hacienda-style terrace overlooking the tiny white Church of the Holy Cross in Nin, the foundation stone of Christianity in Croatia. So, it’s fair to say that it is, ahem, blessed with one of the finest views in the country. See the stone fireplace inside made from an altar.

QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (45 - 90kn). AB

Self Service Barbakan D-3/4, Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. 30 09 70. Do it yourself we say! Traditional homemade cuisine packed with hot meals, refreshing drinks and a great choice of salads. With low prices and their self-service system, the Barbakan restaurant allows you to mix your lunch in your very own imaginative way. Located at the old Citadela of the city. QOpen 11:30 - 16:30

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CAFÉS

RESTAURANTS Tipping

A sweet full stop

Tipping is generally left at the customers discretion, though most foreigners will tend to reward good service with a 10% gratuity.

The Czechs say that every meal needs a sweet full stop – just a little something to round everything off nicely. Even though you’re stuffed to the, er, gills with fish (sorry) and other goodies, perhaps you can find room for a refreshing slice of Anastasia’s dream or Rožata, a recipe from Dubrovnik similar to crčme caramel. Melons and peaches are at their best at this time of year, as are figs, which can be steeped in wine and honey, or served dried with almonds. In restaurants offering ispod peke style food, you may be able to find pancakes cooked in this way, and stuffed with sweet curd cheese and raisins.

Danica C-3, Široka ulica 3, tel. 21 10 16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of the good selection of cakes from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNB Donat B-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. 25 08 29. Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town.

The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNB Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. 21 11 21. Good cake and ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNB

Konoba Grmalj Premuda 10, Premuda Island, tel. 37

66 65, konoba.grmalj@gmail.com. A little terrace near the Krijal bay on the western part of the island. A gorgeous location to try lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish) ispod peke.

People claim that kid goat is a better meat than lamb as it’s not so greasy and has a more delicate flavour. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn). NB Kužina Zadarska 2, Zaton, tel. 26 40 62/ 095 826 81 94. This classic konoba style eatery offers a fine menu that encompasses a variety of salads, steaks, lamb, carpaccio and fish. Great wine list, only 8km from Zadar on the main road towards Zaton. You can’t miss it! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 110kn). PNB Marina Marina Kornati, Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel. 38 45 05. Dalmatian cuisine with modern highlights and traditional music are complemented by soothing, classy décor - a combination that perfectly rounds off a day’s sightseeing, swimming or sailing. The restaurant has an extensive and well-chosen wine list. QOpen 07:00 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn). PALB Na Tale Stjepana Radića 4, Pag, tel. 61 11 94/ 098 44 98 57, frano.valentic@net.hr, www.ljubica.hr. A pleasant restaurant at the beginning of Pag town’s waterfront promenade, with terrace seating overlooking the sea or in a shady garden. A wide range of Mediterranean food, including pizzas, steaks grilled fish and lamb - the restaurant’s speciality.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 355kn). PAB Osteria Piazza Trg Gornja vrata b.b., Sukošan, tel. 39 41 54/ 091 393 17 33, ludva@zg.htnet.hr, www.piazzasukosan.com. A superb quality trattoria-style restaurant with some unusual menu items, including“Bakalar bianco” - salt cod (a Dalmatian classic), lean pork fillet stuffed with prunes, and dishes with Italian-inspired ingredients including balsamic vinegar, artichokes and truffles. Also pizzas, pastas and risottos. A top quality wine list features the highly-regarded Zlatan wines from Hvar. They have a great catering service.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (30 - 110kn). PAB Pizzeria Andrija Trg hrvatskih velikana 2, Biograd, tel.

098 77 46 64. Pizzas from a traditional clay oven, pasta and a choice of salads all in the centre of Biograd, not far from the bus station. Stone details inside and a large terrace. Cash only. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (35 - 50kn). PJNB Tony Kožino bb, Kožino, tel. 28 32 99/ 098 35 79 11. Dalmatian specialities and international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff. On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 150kn).

PALB Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd, tel. 38 54 82/ 091 544 90 39, frane.jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor. hr. The kind and helpful staff will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly seafood with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely spot on Biograd’s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside, look out for motifs of life here in times gone by.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). ALB

Zadar In Your Pocket

Seafood Less homey than konobas but good places to try the local catch in a more upscale ambience.

Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. 31 44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 450kn). PJAB Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 330kn).

PALB Niko G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. 33 78 88, hotel. niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotel-niko.hr. An institution - not only one of the best hotels but also one of the best restaurants in town. It’s a great place to eat seafood. We recommend it for a special treat - but it’s not shockingly expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALB Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. 33 10 00. A family restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge portions - try the delicious octopus salad or anything seafood. QOpen 11:00 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 350kn). PALB Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the water’s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar’s best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still their strong point. However, the overall experience, including the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. 33 75 70, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. A wonderful restaurant in a wonderful hotel in a wonderful Italian villa, with wonderful food and great surroundings... We need say little more except “try the tuna carpaccio”. Right by the Sphinx on the coast road between Puntamika and the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PALB

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Cafes As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s vital to have a chance to catch up with the day’s gossip over a macchiato. That means the coffee is usually good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere.

A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too. Boo to globalisation!

Atrij D-2, Jurja Barakovića 6, tel. 31 59 38. By the bridge

gate at the edge of the Old Town. A comfortable cafe and occasional exhibition space, with good coffee and cakes, a selection of local and foreign wines, plus cigars and cocktails.

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. NB Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. 30 56 84.

A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PB Bristol B-3, Nikole Matafara 2, tel. 098 44 92 10. A really Dalmatian cafe. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00.

Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere.

Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Coffee Lounge D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4, tel. 31 88 70. Simple design and relaxing lounge music rule the roost here. The terrace is a delightful mix of ancient and modern in the heart of Zadar, and good sandwiches, cakes, cocktails and wines await your selection on the menu. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNB Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. 25 05 37. A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB Kampo A/B-3, Trg 3 bunara bb, tel. 091 563 34 50. For morning coffee... QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PB Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21, tel. 098 196 92 43. Named after what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat. Still, it’s a good place to sit on the waterfront and enjoy coffee and cake, or even a game of pool.

QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. PB

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Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. 21 26 78/ 31 49 26. The

best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want to sit inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNB More C-2, Brne Krnautića 3, tel. 64 41 30. A cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PB Moto cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel. 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the northern part of town. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs out, and bikes hang within to make the point absolutely clear. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PB Passage M-5, Bartola Kašića 1, tel. 21 23 21. On the corner of a red brick building known by the locals as the “peglica” (little iron) because of its unusual triangular shape.

On the Jazine bay at the beginning of the Old Town peninsula.

QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. PNB Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. 31 52 75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNB Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. 25 14 62.

A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near the Forum.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. 091 77 00. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful view of Stari Grad.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. AEB

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NIGHTLIFE On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people.

While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.

Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is. There are a handful of clubs which offer some decent nights, and a wide choice of bars to suit your tastes.

Clubs Zadar doesn’t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners tend to try to cater for everyone, offering different kinds of music on different nights. At the time of going to press, in true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue what would be happening when this summer, so keep an eye out for flyers and posters. Here’s a general idea of what to expect.

Apart from that, the good news is the crowd is always very mixed, and the appalling Europop you find in so many resorts is pretty much absent.

City Club Forum M-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. 091 300 00 63, 091 300 00 64/ 091 300 00 62, www. cityclubforum.com. A smallish coliseum-shaped space with three bars an atmosphere of full-on hedonism to recall the fall of Rome. The music policy is flexible, but you can expect to find commercial house and r’n’b. QOpen Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00.

The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. 36 47 39, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.thegardenzadar. com. Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. JEBW

Cocktail bars Barbara bar F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. 20

61 00. Done out in classic lounge bar style, all wicker and white cushions, the Barbara Bar is a classy and comfortable spot to wind down after a hard day’s sunbathing or yachting on Borik. It’s inside the Funimation hotel in the Falkenstiener Borik hotel complex. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PA Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. 098 980 29 69. This brightly-coloured bar on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex.

It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.

QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. B

Casinos Casino Zadar B-1, Ivana Mažuranića b.b., tel.

23 94 00/ 23 94 12, casino@tankerkomerc.hr, www.tankercomerc.hr. The casino in the city marina complex is looking really good. Games include Black Jack, American Roulette, Caribbean Poker, 7 Card Stud Poker and slot machines. Euro accepted. Q Open 08:00 - 04:00. P

Zadar In Your Pocket

NIGHTLIFE Hangin’ out Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. 21 13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. 25 38 20, info@ arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres in Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar Tourist Board put their heads together so you can find all the tourist information you need. From accommodation to tours, Internet access and exchange facilities you will find them all at Arsenal. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PTJAEBKW Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PGB Brazil A-4, Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice 1, tel. 091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions. Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above average on the music taste-o-meter QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PN Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Corso C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. 098 182 77 41. Super-modern inside and with a pleasant terrace on the Riva, we hear that they are spinning great DJ parties at the weekends these days. The music policy is on the less annoying side of the dance spectrum. Q Open 08:00 01:00. PNGB Dolce Vita C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, tel. 091 553 97 27, antoniomontana@net.hr. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. PJNGB Ferragamo bar C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. 098 942 88 57. Administering a much-needed dose of vitality to Zadar’s relatively low-key Riva area is Ferrogardo, a minimalist purple rectangle of pumping music hidden in the alley behind Café Corso. Delivering hip-hoppy and techno-ish soundscapes to a club-conscious clientele, Ferrogardo is clear about what niche in Zadar’s nightlife it wants to occupy, although it’s still too new to have really established itself as a key stop-off on the bar-cruising itinerary. Definitely worth checking out at weekends, though. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.

Gagica G-4, A.G. Matoša 8, Borik, tel. 33 22 20, agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica’s history goes back to the 60’s, and it has been one of Zadar’s favourite bars ever since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as it’s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself.

Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. LNB Kult C-3, Stomorica 6. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.

QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. B

LLoyd B-3, Trg sv. Stošije 3, tel. 25 08 51. One of

the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Lotus C-4, Stomorica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. 21 12 50, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it’s a café/restaurant, head on down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. PAB Rio C-4, Putevac 5, ivan.antisin@zd.t-com.hr. Right by In Time, pretty relaxed and playing Latino and house. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PB Sea organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Riva. Read all about Zadar’s sea organ - the only one in the world - in “What to see”, then head, equipped with your insider knowledge, to impress the chaps or chapesses that gather there by evening. It’s a nice place to lounge whilst listening to the sounds produced by the waves, and it’s a special experience at sunset.

Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. 31 68 47, cafe.toni@zd.tcom.hr. On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite.

QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. PNGB

super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. GB Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and drum’n’bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.

Out of town Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. 66 20

38/ 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. BKC Barbarella’s Petrčane, Punta Radman, tel. 36 47 39, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.thegardenzadar.com.

The Garden club people revive this legendary club space on a pine covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Super sundown cocktails, and Saturday parties with future jazz scene names.

Open: Terrace 10:00 - 01:30; Coctail bar 12:00 - 01:30 and Night club 24:00 - 06:00. Q PAB

 Zadar telephone code is +385-23

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Yachting Volkswagen Caffe G-5, A.G. Matoša, Borik. A

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WHAT TO SEE

NIGHTLIFE Beach Bar Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island,

tel. 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya. com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs and international guests playing varied music styles. Q Lounge bar Open 10:00 - 15:00. Club Open 16:00 - 06:00. BC Carpy More Bana Josipa Jelačića, Biograd, tel. 38 61 19. In this beautifully renovated old building in Biograd’s old town, a Dalmatian pub has opened, all stone walls and roughhewn wooden furniture. It’s an airy space with comfortable seating, cosy antique details and live music on Thursdays.

Call to reserve a table. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00.

La Habana Obala kralja P. Krešimira IV 1, Sv. Filip i Jakov, tel. 091 353 73 32. Very vogue, very happening and very fun - open late in the beach close to the waterfront of this lovely little town. Pick your cocktail from the wellstocked bar and make like the beautiful people. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. NB Lavender Bed Bar Hotel Adriatic, Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd, tel. 29 07 00, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www. ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxing ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music. As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB Saturnus Holiday Village Zaton, tel. 28 02 80, 28 04 38/ 098 48 60 35, sales.dept@zaton.hr, www.zaton. hr. A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00. PLN

Essential Zadar

Drink Viniculture has always been an important part of life on the Adriatic and there are many fine Croatian wines. If you are eating in a traditional konoba, sometimes they will have home-made wine sold out of the barrel, cheap and fun to try. Local whites are usually very drinkable, reds tend to be on the gentle side. If you’re unlucky and hit a bad example, just add mineral water.

If you fancy trying posh wine, here are some names to look out for. But don’t be afraid to ask the waiter to recommend something - they may have something special in.

Whites: Aenona (Marić estate), Maraština (Vinarija Benkovac) are both high-quality dry whites.

Nobody likes being invaded. But one good thing has come of Zadar’s periods of building, rebuilding and being gatecrashed: each period has left its architectural mark. There can be few places on Earth with such diverse influences crammed into one small area.

Narodni Trg

Pubs Kantun C-4, Stomorica 5, tel. 098 33 95 01. Kantun (the

Dalmatian for “corner”) is situated on a crossroads (called Kantun) that is a hub for the hep cats of Zadar. The only place with a simple pub feel and a music policy that proudly announces itself: Raaawk! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Maya Pub B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. 25 17 16. By day, a comfortable and chilled-out cafe, with comfortable Balinese furniture, a huge gold sculpture of Shiva on the wall, and a quayside terrace where you can make like Sam Cook and watch the boats coming in and going out again.

By night, Maya is the only club likely to offer something away from the mainstream. Dance music tends to be the more laid back Saint Germain and Buddha Bar scene, but you can also catch some of the most popular Croatian live bands (Urban played to a packed house just recently). There are sure to be assorted impromptu happenings. Truly excellent. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. B

Fine lookin´ Ladies Ask a Croatian where to go to see the most beautiful women and most will point you directly to Zadar (even the bitter females of the population). A strange and nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, and indeed the world fashion industry makes no secret of this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They are known especially for the combination of amazing height, ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic features and a scorn for writers of city guides.

Zadar In Your Pocket

City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the

Reds: Postup and Dingač are the most famous top quality reds, both from the Pelješac peninsula in the south.

Expensive, but worth it. Plavac is an indigenous grape, producing a powerful southern reds, the best examples are from Plenković and Zlatan Plančič, both from the island of Hvar. Babić from Primošten is a softer style.

After your meal, local firewaters, or rakija, could be šljivovica (plum), travarica (herb), lozovača (grappa),but then again there’s nothing you can’t make rakija from! If they have home-made, try it - it’s light-years better than the shop-bought stuff. Pelinkovac is a local bitter, Prošek is a dessert wine. Definitely try maraschino cherry drinks.

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largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them.

The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s

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considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.

Between the ferryport and market is the Harbour Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.

City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.

With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.

Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 -21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

City Market (Pijaca) C-2. In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese - usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.

Petar Zoranić On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, the son of a family of nobles from Nin, the beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time – a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

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WHAT TO SEE The Cathedral belltower To get the best idea of the layout of Zadar, clustered as it is on its own peninsula, climb up the belltower belonging to St Anastasia’s Cathedral. You get the best view of the terracotta roofs and gardens of the city, plus the mountains contrasting with the coastline.

City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.

Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions).

The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 -10kn.

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.

Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3. During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

Parks D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate.

It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was Zadar In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE completed, and the park was named after him - against his wishes. Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion

by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.

Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) B-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. 25 04 96/ 25 48

20. If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.

Q Open 10:00 - 12:30, 18:00 - 19:30. Sun 10:00 - 12:00.

Admission 20kn.

St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije)

B-3, Trg svete Stošije. An attrative Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv. Šime) D-3,

Trg Petra Zoranića 7. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains th e remains of the popular saintprotector of the city Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wi fe of Croa tH u n ga r i a n K i n g Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th.

Q Open 08:30 - 12:00.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.

St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the preRomanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’”.

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3. A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.

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WHAT TO SEE Churches When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking that all the people of Zadar have done through the centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing, and how rich that life has been. Here are the main highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass - each has its own timetable.

All churches expect you to cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused admittance.

St Mary’s Church

WHAT TO SEE St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića

Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.

St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in 1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives (see The Research Library and Historical Archive, History page), the University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences.

St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3, Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.

St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)

Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green

park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar ) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila

Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.

Zadar In Your Pocket

A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. 25 04 68. Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou.

Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The at tach ed Franciscan monaster y has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)

C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery.

The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.

St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small and simple, but architecturally rich.

St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless!

St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3, Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar.

St Nediljice’s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3.

An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains are displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).

St Nicholas’s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3.

The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close to St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque belltower lie in the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from the ravages of history - Napoleon’s armies converted it into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged the exterior.

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg

Petra Zoranića 7, tel. 21 17 05. East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar.

First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon).

St Thomas’s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school, rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.

Landmarks Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow staring at a shell

in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?

A salute to the sun A-4. Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.

 Zadar telephone code is +385-23 zadar.inyourpocket.com

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MAIL & PHONES

WHAT TO SEE The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja

Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, enjoy one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić, and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter engineered the organ itself.

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. 25 05 42, arheoloski-muzej-zadar@ zd.htnet.hr, www.amzd.hr. On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

Zadar In Your Pocket

National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. 25 18 51. The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban development of Zadar from the Baroque to the first half of the 19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture and (particularly recommended) early photography. There are also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace (see Palaces). QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. 36 38 33/36 38 30. The Museum is one of the city’s newest attractions and rightfully so. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used

by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as you’ll no doubt enter one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. Q Open 09:00 -21:00. Admission 10-30kn.

Palaces Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3.

Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and fauna, including sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from all over the world.

QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3. Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency complex.

The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the recent war.

Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) D/C -3. Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive

Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.

Palace Grisogono (Palača Grisogono) D-3. Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century a first floor was added in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.

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Express mail City Ex M-4, Kaljska 8a, tel. 30 90 99, zadar@ cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 -

19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N DHL M-5, Franje Tuđmana 2i, tel. 22 44 44/ 098 47 30 32, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Internet places

Acme B-3, Nikole Matafara 2a, tel. 25 07 08, kluv@ zadarsnova.hr. A big internet centre combined with a gallery space. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 10kn / 30min.

Internet L-5/C-1, Rikarda Katalinića Jeretova 5, tel.

30 91 60. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:00. 15kn / 10min, 30kn / 1h.

Libar L-4, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. 30 11 35, gkzd@ gkzd.hr, www.gkzd.hr. City library. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 10kn / 1hour. PB Vip Internet C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. 091 77 00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Mobile phones

City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Dubrovnik

01 021 022 023 020

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel.

31 68 41. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. Post office B-3, Š.Kožičića Benje 1, tel. 25 04 92/ 25 05 06. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. Post office L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. 23 52 44.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun.

Mobile phone use in Zadar is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098, 099) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine.

SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.

T-Centar M-5, Polačišće 2, Relja, tel. 0800 90 00.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. VIP-Centar Obala kneza Branimira 6b, tel. 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Špiro Brusina Sculpture

Making the Call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear.

National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023 if you’re calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number.

Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.

Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Postcrads

Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad

3,50 kn 8,00 kn 1,80 kn 3,50 kn

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GETTING AROUND Airline offices Croatia Airlines K-5/B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 7, tel.

25 00 94/ 25 01 01, zadto@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen

08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Germanwings, www.germanwings.com.

InterSky, www.intersky.biz.

Ryanair, www.ryanair.com.

SkyEurope, www.skyeurope.com.

Airport Zračna luka Zadar Airport Zadar, p.p. 367, Zadar, tel.

31 33 11, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar-airport.hr.

Zadar’s small but modern airport is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights also in summer.

Buses Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 21

15 55, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.liburnija-zadar. hr. The bus station is on the crossroads just east of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring.

A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00, while private bus company Contus runs the most comfortable lines to Zagreb, Split and all main cities in Germany. Drop by their office on the platform (open every day 06:30 - 22:00), or call 31 44 77 / 31 42 02, www.contus.hr or Puntamika line, tel. 31 53 31 (open every day 07:00 - 21:00).

Car Rental

AMC B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana b.b., tel. 25 43 01, kristijan.zebic@amcrentacar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00,

Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. 21 25 79/ 091 570 22 31, avia@yahoo.com, www.avia-rentacar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. 31 57 33/ 098 42 48 91, zadar@subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

GETTING AROUND Summer Flights

Street smart

As summer descends it is undoubtedly the busiest time of the year with the mass influx of tourists that visit our shores. The airports in and around Croatia which include Zagreb, Pula, Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Dubrovnik have an abundant amount of seasonal flights on offer, thanks largely to the standard and low cost airline companies that connect Croatia to the rest of Europe. The distance between each airport, except for Dubrovnik, is a 4 hour drive maximum; therefore, you do not have to renounce your flight in case the airline you have ch osen does not fly to the airport of your choice. Just check for the other nearest airport.

Alongside the standard flights in our flight schedule for this summer in Croatia, these are the airlines which will also fly to Croatia: EasyJet, Blue1, SAS, Clickair, Iberia, Jet2, Norwegian Air, Hapagloyd, Germanwings, Centralwings, Danube Wings, SkyEurope, Jetairfly, Estonian air, Aerlingus, Flybe, Tuifly, Flyglobespan, EStonianair, Air Berlin, Wizzair, Ryanair, InterSky, Monarch,and Jat. The difficult part now is which one to choose!

Street Road Passage City centre

ulica cesta prolaz centar

Square Walk Way Station

trg šetalište put stanica

Ferries Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding islands.

The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.

Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 00/ 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Q Open 08:00 21:00. A

Lulić O-3, Put murvice 101, tel. 24 22 24/ 098 31 37

47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Also at Zadar Airport, tel.

20 58 24. Open 08:00 - 22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Modul Auto R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. 34 36 30/ 091 222 26 92, modul-auto@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. 23 66 00/ 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com.hr. Rent a scooter.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Zadar B-2, Liburnska obala 3, tel. 25 17 00/ 098 47 89 05, www.rentacarzadar.hr. Available weekends and 24h a day on mobile. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Public transport

Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. 25 48 00, www. jadrolinija.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00 Miatours B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana b.b., tel. 25 43 00/

25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www.miatours.hr. LNP agent. QA

Harbormasters’ office Lučka kapetanija K-5/B-2, Liburnska obala 8, tel. 25

48 88, milivoj.maricic@pomorstvo.hr.

Parking Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks.

Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas – they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 8231 (blue zone) or 8232 (white zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them.

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Buses City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. See page 41 for a route map and timetables. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00 - 14:00, Saturdays 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 13kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (8kn for one trip).

Liburnija, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 21 15 55.

Rent a bike

Calimero bike shop M-5, Obala kneza Branimira 2a,

tel. 31 10 10/ 098 189 55 28. Bikes for sale and rent, servis. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Eurobike L-5, Obala kneza Branimira 6c, tel. 24 12 43/ 099 317 47 21. Bike purchase, service and rental, plus other sports equipment, including punchbags for when those family holidays are just getting too much. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Gas stations Zadar - Voštarnica, Kneza Branimira bb, tel. 23 59 62.Q Open 06:00 - 22:00.

Zadar - Borik, A.G. Matoša bb, tel. 33 23 97.QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.

Zadar - Put Murvice, west, tel. 31 11 18.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Petrčane - Branimir pumpe. QOpen 00:00 -24:00.

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GETTING AROUND

GETTING AROUND

Ferries and boats From Zadar Days (Jadrolinija ferry) 1-34-6-2-----

Dep. 10:45 10:45/12:40/13:35

1-34------5--2--5------6-

15:20 14:30 18:40 15:15/17:10/18:05

------7 ------7 From Zadar Days(Jadrolinija ferry) 123-5-123-5-123-5-123-5----4-----4-----4-----4-------6-----6-----6-----6-

09:00 13:00

-----6------7 ------7

Dep. 09:00 12:45 16:30 20:00 09:00 12:45 16:30(July 8-August 26) 20:00 07:30 11:00 14:20 17:40(July 04 - August 29) 21:00 09:00 12:45(July 05 - August 30) 18:10 21:45

...Ferries and boats Destination BRŠANJ(Iž) BRŠANJ(Iž)-RAVA-MALA RAVA BRŠANJ(Iž) BRŠANJ(Iž) BRŠANJ(Iž) BRŠANJ(Iž)-RAVA-MALA RAVA BRŠANJ(Iž) BRŠANJ(Iž) Destination BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ BRBINJ

To Zadar Days 1-34-67 -2-----

Dep. 12:50 15:15/15:30/16:30

1-34------5--2--5------6-

17:30 16:35 20:50 19:40/19:55/20:55

------7 ------7 To Zadar Days 123-5-123-5-123-5-123-5----4-----4-----4-----4-------6-----6-----6-----6-

11:00 15:00

-----6------7 ------7

------7 BRBINJ ------7 ------7 BRBINJ ------7 From Zadar To Zadar Days (Jadrolinija ferry) Dep. Destination Days -23---7 (June, September) 11:00/13:50/14:45 OLIB/SILBA/PREMUDA -23---7 1---5-- (June, September) 09:00/11:35/1 2:25/ IST/OLIB/SILBA/ 1---5-13:20/14:05 PREMUDA/M.LOŠINJ ---4-6- (June, September) 11:00/13:35/ IST/OLIB/SILBA/ ---4-614:25/15:20 PREMUDA -23---7 (July 03-August 31) 09:00/11:50/ OLIB/SILBA/ -23---7 12:45/13:30 PREMUDA/M.LOŠINJ 1--45609:00/11:35/1 2:25/ IST/OLIB/SILBA/ 1--456(July 03-August 31) 13:20/14:05 PREMUDA/M.LOŠINJ From Zadar To Zadar Days(Jadrolinija ferry) Dep. Destination Days 1---5 11:00/12:10/ RIVANJ/SESTRUNJ/ 1---5 12:40/13:20 ZVERINAC/MOLAT -2----12:00/13:10/ RIVANJ/SESTRUNJ/ -2----13:40/14:20/14:55 ZVERINAC/MOLAT/IST --3---11:00/12:10/ RIVANJ/SESTRUNJ/ --3---12:40/13:20/13:55 ZVERINAC/MOLAT/IST ---4--14:15/15:25/ RIVANJ/SESTRUNJ/ ---4--15:55/16:35 ZVERINAC/MOLAT -----611:00/12:20 SESTRUNJ/MOLAT -----6------7 17:00/18:15 SESTRUNJ/MOLAT ------7 From Zadar Days(Jadrolinija ferry) 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 (July 03 - August 31)

Zadar In Your Pocket

Dep. 05:30 cca. every hour 23:00 23:59

Destination PREKO(Ugljan) PREKO(Ugljan) PREKO(Ugljan) PREKO(Ugljan)

To Zadar Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Mon - 1, Tue - 2, Wed - 3, Thu - 4, Fri - 5, Sat - 6, Sun - 7 Zadar In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes.

Dep. 05:45 11:00 14:30 18:15 05:45 11:00 14:30 (July 8-August 26) 18:15 05:45 09:15 12:40 16:00 (July 04 - August 29) 19:15 07:00 11:00 (July 05 - August 30) 16:30 20:00 Dep. 16:30/17:20/18:05 16:00/17:45/18:35/ 19:20/20:10 17:00/17:50/ 18:35/19:25 16:30/18:15/ 19:05/19:50 16:30/18:15/19:05/ 19:50/20:40 Dep. 16:00/16:30/ 17:10/17:35 17:00/18:15/18:45/ 19:25/19:50 16:00/17:15/17:45/ 18:25/18:50 19:00/19:30/ 20:10/20:35 14:00/14:55 1 9: 2 0/2 0 : 1 0 t i l l J u n e 21&September 13-30 Dep. 05:15 cca. every hour 23:30(June, September) 00:30 (July 03 - August 31)

zadar.inyourpocket.com

From Zadar Days (Jadrolinija boat) 1234------5------6-(June 01-10, Sept 7-30)

Dep. 16:30/17:55/ 18:10/19:00 17:00/18:25/ 18:40/19:30 14:00/15:25/ 15:40/16:30

-----6-(June 12-Sept 05) 14:45/16:10/ 16:25/17:15/17:25 ------7/holidays 08:10/09:35/ 09:50/10:40 ------7

15:20 (not June 21)

Destination VELI IŽ/MALI IŽ/MALA RAVA/RAVA VELI IŽ/MALI IŽ/MALA RAVA/RAVA VELI IŽ/MALI IŽ/MALA RAVA/RAVA

To Zadar Days 12345------6------7

VELI IŽ/MALI IŽ/MALA ------7/holiday RAVA/RAVA VELI IŽ/MALI IŽ/MALA RAVA/RAVA -----6-/day RAVA before holiday

Dep. 05:00/05:10/ 05:55/06:15 06:30/06:40/ 07:25/07:40 12:30/12:40/ 13:25/ 13:45 (not June 21) 17:10/17:20/ 18:05/18:25 16:50*(June 12 -September 05 Sat 17:35 )

VELI IŽ/MALI IŽ/MALA 20:00/21:25/ RAVA/RAVA 21:40/22:30 (not June 21) *June 10&24, August 04 leaves Rava at 19:20, August 14 leaves Rava at 19:50 From Zadar To Zadar Days(Jadrolinija boat) Dep. Destination Days Dep. 123456123456(June 12 10:00/12:05 SALI/ZAGLAV (June 12 12:25/September 05) September 05) 123456123456(September 07-30) 10:00/11:15 SALI/ZAGLAV (September 11:30/07-30) From Zadar To Zadar Days Dep. Destination Days Dep. (Jadrolinija catamaran) 12345605:00/06:15 SALI/ZAGLAV 12345606:25/1234--15:00/16:15 SALI/ZAGLAV 1234--16:25/----5615:30/16:45 SALI/ZAGLAV ----5616:55/12345619:30 SALI/ZAGLAV 12345620:50/------7/holiday 08:00/09:15 SALI/ZAGLAV ------7/ holiday 09:25/------7/holiday 15:30/-/16:40 SALI/ZAGLAV/SALI ------7/holiday 17:00/-/(not June 21) (not June 21) ------7/holiday 18:20/-/19:30 SALI/ZAGLAV/SALI ------7/ holiday 19:50/-/From Zadar To Zadar Days Dep. Destination Days Dep. (Jadrolinija catamaran) 1-3--614:05/14:55/ MOLAT/BRGULJE/ 12345606:00/06:10/ 15:10/15:40 ZAPUNTEL/IST 06:35/06:50 -2-4--11:00/11:50/ MOLAT/BRGULJE/ -----616:10/-/-/12:05/12:35 ZAPUNTEL/IST ----5-17:30/18:20/ MOLAT/BRGULJE/ ------7 18:30/18:40/ 18:35/19:05 ZAPUNTEL/IST 19:05/------7 08:00/08:50/ MOLAT/BRGULJE/ 09:05/09:35 ZAPUNTEL/IST ------7 20:30/21:20/-/MOLAT/BRGULJE/ ZAPUNTEL/IST From Zadar To Zadar Days(LNP catamaran) Dep. Destination Days Dep. --3--607:00/08:30/ (till July 03 --3--6-(till July 03 16:00/17:45/ ILOVIK/M.LOŠINJ/ & S e p t e m b e r 09:35/10:25 &September 6-30) 18:45/19:40 UNIJE/PULA 6-30) --3--607:00/-/09:20/ (July 04--3--6-(July 0416:00/17:40/ 18:45/ILOVIK/M.LOŠINJ/ 10:10 September September 09) UNIJE/PULA 09) 1---5-7(July 04ILOVIK/M.LOŠINJ/ 1- - - 5 -7( J u l y 0 4 - 07:00/08:30/ 09:40/September 09) 16:00/-/ 18:25/19:15 UNIJE/PULA September 09) ------7/holidays

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2009

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GETTING AROUND

GETTING AROUND

...Ferries and boats From Biograd Days(Jadrolinija ferry) 1234567 1234567 1234567

Bus lines

To Biograd Dep. Destination Days 06:00* TKON(Pašman) 1234567 cca. every hour- 90mins TKON(Pašman) 1234567 21:20 TKON(Pašman) 1234567 *Not Sat,Sun&holidays in June, September **Not Sun&holidays in June &September

Dep. 05:30** cca. every hour- 90mins 21:00

International flight schedule From Zadar Days 12-4567 --3----2-4--7

Dep. 06:50 06:50 06:50

Arr. 10:30 10:30 10:30

1-----12--5---3-----3-----3---12-45---3---12345-7 1---5-12-4567 12345-7 12-4567 --3---12-4567 --3---12-4567

06:50 06:50 06:50 06:50 06:50 06:50 06:50 15:15 06:50 06:50 15:15 06:50 06:50 06:50 06:50 06:50

10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:40 10:40 19:30 10:30 10:05 19:50 10:35 10:35 09:05 09:05 10:55

Destination AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM 20 Jun BARCELONA 7Jul until 18 Aug BARCELONA BRUSSELS 22 Jun BRUSSELS 19 Jun BRUSSELS 8 Jul until 19 Aug BRUSSELS 26 Aug BRUSSELS FRANKFURT 1 Jul FRANKFURT FRANKFURT GOTHENBURG MUNICH MUNICH by 20 Jun PARIS 1 Jul PARIS VIENNA 1 Jul VIENNA ZURICH

To Zadar Days 12345-7 -----6-2-------4--7 1-3---123-5-12----------7 ---45-7 12345------67 1-345-1---5-12345-7 -----612345-7 --34-612345-7 1-34567 1234567

Dep. 11:20 11:20 18:10 18:10 11:10 11:10 18:20 18:20 18:20 10:05 15:55 18:00 11:20 11:15 11:15 11:35 17:30 10:10 19:30 11:45

Arr. 14:45 14:45 22:50 21:45 14:45 14:45 21:45 21:45 21:45 14:45 21:45 22:15 14:45 14:45 14:45 14:45 21:45 14:45 21:45 13:10

In the sweltering heat of the Mediterranean summer the last thing that tourists need is to contemplate on how to get from A to B. Rest assured dear visitors as you can wipe the sweat of your brows as you’ll be pleased to know that Zadar has excellent connections to the rest of Croatia. All the major destinations are covered and if you do have any inquiries, simply check directly at the Zadar Bus Station or phone 21 15 55 or 31 59 40.

Zadar is well connected to Zagreb with daily lines via the travel agencies Contus 01:00, 10:30, 13:30 and Puntamika 07:00, 12:30, 16:25. The second largest city of Split is also adjoined through Contus 07:00, 15:00 and Puntamika at 07:30.

For those wishing to travel closer to the Zadar surroundings there is a bus line for Benkovac at 07:00 and 17:45. Island hoppers who choose Vir as a destination won’t miss out as there is a bus line that comes from Zagreb and leaves Zadar at 19:30. In addition, there is also a line Čakovec-Vir that runs from May 31 until August 31 which stops in Zadar at 10:45 and continues through to Vir. The bus line Zagreb-Murter stops in Zadar and leaves for Murter at 07:30. If you’ve done your research you’ll know that Novalja is one of the hit party destinations and therefore there is a bus that travels daily at 14:00 and 20:00. Take note as an additional line to Novalja is scheduled from June until September with a bus that departs at 17:00.

With the new state of the art freeways built, the ZagrebSplit bus line is definitely the best way to travel timewise. In saying that, there are also buses available for those who wish to take the lovely coastal route along the sea. As a bonus, this Zagreb-Split line does stop in Zadar as it heads towards Split at the following times (08:00, 09:00, 09:30, 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 14:20, 14:30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 16:45, 17:00, 17:30, 17:50, 19:00, 20:10 and 22:00).

If you’re travelling south to Dubrovnik, there is a line from Trieste that arrives to Zadar at 00:55 and then proceeds further down. Don’t be disheartened as it’s not the only one, others follow at 02:55, 06:00, 10:00, 12:45, 13:45 and 22:45.

To the north of the country there are bus lines for the city of Rijeka at 10:15, 10:30, 12:45, 14:30, 16:00, and 18:15. For the Istrian peninsula and the city of Pula the bus lines from Zadar depart at 08:05, 11:15 and 23:30.

For the most eastern part of Croatia there is a bus line to Osijek which leaves Zadar at 23:00.

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Taxi Call 25 14 00 / 31 72 88 for the main call centre for minicabs.

Prices are the same around the clock: 25kn starting price, 8kn/km, 60kn/hr waiting, luggage 3kn per piece. For longer trips a lower price may be agreed. For private minicabs call 098 27 28 27.

Trains

Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. 21 25 55. National info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr The train station is right next to the bus station. Zadar is not particularly well connected with other Croatian cities by rail. There are three direct trains to Zagreb a day. As for train services to Split - don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus. Ticket prices are similar to those of buses.

The ticket office is open 06:10 - 10:15, 13:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German pages and a search facility. For international services, it connects you to the Deutsche Bahn website.

Travel agencies

Generalturist E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 1, tel. 31 89 97, pzadar@generalturist.com, www.generalturist.com.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Kompas B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 9, tel. 25 43 04/ 25 43 06, zadar@kompas.t-com.hr, www.kompas-travel. com. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, Borik, tel. 33 72 94/ 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr, www.terratravel. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Photo by Andrej Jakuš

Zadar In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun

Domestic flight schedule From Zadar Days 12345-7 1-34567 -2-----

Dep. 15:15 22:10 22:10

Arr. 15:55 22:50 22:50

12-4567 --3---12345-7

06:50 06:50 15:15

07:35 07:35 17:10

Destination PULA PULA 1 Jul PULA 26 Aug ZAGREB 7Jul -18 Aug ZAGREB 25 Aug ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB 30 Jun

To Zadar Days 12-4567 --3-----3----2-----2----12345-7 1-34567 -2-----

Dep. 05:50 05:50 05:50 21:00 21:00 14:00 21:00 21:00

Arr. 06:30 06:30 06:30 22:50 21:45 14:45 21:45 21:45

Zadar In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2009

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SPORT

SPORT

Beaches If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there.

Kolovare beach does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. Behind Taverna Kolovare are public toilets and you can play table tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east.

Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kozino is a refined area of villas.

If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby . But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands.

Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00.

But the further you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in Islands have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours!

...and Zadar created basketball Croatians, giants as they are, are both accomplished players and passionate followers of basketball (here called košarka). Much as they love to follow the progress of their tennis stars on the circuit and their footballing heroes in the big European clubs, so they watch their countrymen take on the best in the NBA, whilst netting huge amounts of cash, model girlfriends and eventual hamstring injuries. Krešimir Ćosić is perhaps Zadar’s best-known player – a mammoth statue in his image stands guard over the entrance to the Old Town, basketball held in meditative awe. He was the first European in the NBA. Zadar is particularly proud of its place in Croatia’s national basketball league: these days, it is second only to the much bigger and better funded club Cibona Zagreb. Its success is due to its talent for nurturing junior players. The city’s basketball club is near the beginning of the Old Town peninsula on the Jazine bay side, there’s a café outside where you may get a of the glimpse of the stars future. If there’s a ga m e on, there’s sure to be an impassioned atmosphere.

The 1st World Darts Championship June 20 – 27 Zadar is the host of the first world electronic darts championship for men and women.

About 3000 darts players from all over the world will participate, with a minimum of 20 European countries and a dozen more from the rest of the world including the USA, China and Japan. 20 official disciplines, along with 23 unofficial open tournaments will be held in 8 days.

Sport Hall Višnjik M-2.

Climbing

Biking and hiking

Paklenica The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice

Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. One of the oldest cycling routes is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some rou tes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. See What to see for more info on these, or call into the Zadar County Tourist Office A-3, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr.

Make friends? Just click! zadar.inyourpocket.com Zadar In Your Pocket

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for climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece of heaven.

Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers.

On e of th e most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain bikers.

The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures, information and advice.

Paklenica National Park, Dr. F. Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad Paklenica tel: 369 202 / 369 155 / 369 803; fax. 359 133; np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr; www.paklenica.hr.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Basket Jam July 4 The chance to experience a basketball tournament in the spiritual home of basketball in Croatia (we’re talking Zadar, of course). It’s on Forum, so you have great surroundings too.

Horse riding Take in the scenery while someone else does the hard work.

Konjički centar Libertas Holliday village Zaton, Nin, tel.

098 47 22 27, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. They have 20 available trained horses. Ask for Mrs. Sanja Rukavina. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00.

Konjički klub Epona Hrvatskog sabora 1, tel. 099 673 71 06. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00.

Rafting In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful green-blue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride.

Bora Tours (F-4) Majstora Radovana 7, tel 33 77 60, fax.

33 77 61 info@boratours.net. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat and Sun 17:00-20:00.

Sailing There’s no better way to spend your holiday. Why? 1. You can faster. 2. You can get to paradise beaches where nobody else goes. 3. The cool sea breeze. 4. It’s great. Need we say more?

Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. 33 10 76/ 33 78 30, office@uskok.biz.hr, www.uskok.biz.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Summer 2009

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SPORT

SHOPPING Gallery Pia C-3, Madijevaca 9, tel. 25 14 60. Paintings,

Marinas ACI Šimuni Obala b.b. - Kolan, Pag Island, tel. 69 74 57, m.simuni@aci-club.hr. 175 berths, 30 places on land, a 15t crane and slipway for vessels up to 8m.

QOpen 07:30 - 21:00.

Benjamin Marina Iž Island - Veli Iž bb, tel. 27 70 06, www.tankerkomerc.hr. A small marina on peaceful Iž island, in a lovely little bay and with a good restaurant.

Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Marina Borik G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, tel.

33 30 36, info@marinaborik.hr, www.marinaborik. hr. Facilities include a 20 ton travel lift, boat care services, 50 land storage spaces. Right by the Borik hotel complex with great accommodation, an aquapark and bars, restaurants and entertainments close by. Q Open 07:30 - 20:00, Mon 07:30 - 14:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

ceramics, lamps, bags and more made by Croatian and Zadar artisans. The staff will also help you with tourist information.

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. 098 27 34 73.

Traditional hand-made lace from Pag island and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski woven textiles from Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin slippers. Handmade glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Val B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 20, tel. 23 57 91. No, it’s not the name of the owner of unspecified gender, val means “wave”. Distinctive paintings by Zadar artist Silviana Dražević, and jewellery by her brother Ivan.Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Scuba Adriatic M-3, Holliday village Zaton, tel. 28 03 50/ 098 68 69 99, 098 27 38 31, info@scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Zadar Sub N-2, Dubrovačka 20a, tel. 21 48 48/ 099 530 04 78, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr, www.zadarsub.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Zlatna luka Marina Dalmacija, Sukošan, tel. 26 31 21/ 091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.divingzlatnaluka.net. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Books Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1, tel. 49 30 50, www.algoritam. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ C-3, Ul. knezova Bribirskih 10, tel. 25 45 50, www. vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed

Tennis

Sun. A

Tennis club Zadar I-3/4, Sutomiška ulica 1 (uvala Draženica), tel. 33 20 22. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 30kn / per hour.

Croatian design Cro-a-porter C-3, Široka ulica 18 (shopping centre

Windsurfing

Marina Dalmacija G-5, Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete

Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. 20 03 00, info@ marinadalmacija.hr, www.marinadalmacija.hr. A beautifully laid out Blue Flag marina near a beach resort with a nice old centre just a few kilometres south of Zadar.

Don’t miss ancient Konoba Kaleta - see “Where to eat”.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Marina Kornati C-1, Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, tel. 38 38 00, info@marinakornati.com, www. marinakornati.com. A full service marina close to the Kornati National Park, in the lively resort of Biograd. The marina is backed by three hotels, the Adriatic, Ilirija and Kornati, owned by the same company as the marina. See “Where to stay” under “Out of town”. Charter available.

QOpen 07:30 - 21:00.

Marina Zadar B-1, Ivana Meštrovića 2, tel. 33 27 00/ 20 48 62, marina@tankerkomerc.hr, www. tankerkomerc.hr. This is the marina closest to the old centre of Zadar. 300 sea and 200 dry berths, a restaurant with a great sunset view, a newly renovated casino and secure parking. Charter available. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Although the waters around Zadar are rather calm for adrenaline surfing, there are places where you can hone your skills, or learn the basics.

Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach Sabunike, Nin, tel.

098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www.surfmania.hr.

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Delicatessen shop

Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. 25 02 46, alen.

Galleries

Anastasia B-3, Dragutina Paračića 3, tel. 25 08 47/ 098 964 98 05, snjezana.bencaric@zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Gallery Anima C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 16, tel. 31 78 01/ 091 545 19 50, zoran.debelic@zd.t-com.hr, www. anima.hr. Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Gallery Bambola C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 7, tel. 31 86 10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A Gallery More B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. 21 16 24/ 098 955 80 12. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A

Gallery Morsky C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 3, tel. 091

780 61 01. Unusual and sometimes eccentric, usually seainspired paintings. Framing service. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun.

Scuba diving

ATMs - Cash Machines

“Under the seeea... under the seeea... there’ll be no accusations, just friendly crustaceans...” Homer Simpson.

Homer knew what he was talking about, it’s another world down there, where you can forget your troubles. The Adriatic, one of the cleanest seas in Europe, is perfect for learning to dive and getting acquainted with the watery underworld. Here’s where you can do it.

Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. 38 54 35/ 098 193 53 30, 099 353 47 83, info@albamaris.hr, www. albamaris.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Callegro), tel. 20 49 02, stef@zadarfilm.com, www.callegro. com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. A

Erste & Steiermarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica bb.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Hypo Alpe-Adria-Bank D-2, Jurja Barakovića bb.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Privredna banka D-1, Stjepana Radića 3.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Široka ulica bb.QOpen

00:00 - 24:00.

Zagrebačka banka C-2, Brne Krnarutića 13.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Dalmatinski gušti D-3, Mihovila Klaića 5, tel. 22 43 93, dalmatinski-gusti@hi.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Gligora N-5, Murvička 1(City Galleria), tel. 31 33 96, sirena@sirena.hr, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A Kroštula C-2, Zlatarska 2, tel 31 13 54, Also at S. Radića 3. Kroštula bakeries offer an excellent choice of bread and cakes. All cakes are to die for and should be tasted! Scrumptious!

QOpen 06:30 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00.

Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr.

Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry (see page 15); plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity.

Other groceries available too. Q Open 07:30 - 12:00, 16:30 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closede Sun. Olvin Put Petrića bb, tel. 32 43 39, olvin@zd.htnet.hr, www.olvin.hr. A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Slavonica N-5, Murvička 1 (City Gallery), tel. 31 35 64, zadar@ecoslavonia.com, www.ecoslavonia.com. It’s a meat and salami lover’s paradise! A specialized shop loaded with Slavonian delicacies such as kulen, kulenova seka, homemade Slavonian sausages and čvarci. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Uljara Joskro K-1, Put Bokanjca 24, tel. 32 22 25/ 091 571 08 25, 098 27 39 38, joskro1@zd.t-com.hr, www. joskro.hr. This family sell their own olive oil, plus anchovies and cows’ and goats’ milk cheese marinated in olive oil. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

SHOPPING Kiosks

Emergency numbers

Foreign books and newspapers For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town - Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Ulica plemića Borelli 25 (C-3). For holiday reading, you can buy foreign language books and magazines in the VBZ Bookshop, (C-3) Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10.

QOpen 06:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.

Nautical supplies Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. 25 09 68.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. 25 44 58.

Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

Money The unit of currency is the kuna (kn) - most places are not able to accept foreign currency. Kuna notes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000kn denominations, and coins in 1, 2, 5 and 25 kuna. The kuna is divided into 100 lipa. 50, 20, 10, 5 and even worse-than-useless 2 lipa coins exist.

You can exchange money in banks and private exchange bureaux. Bank ATMs are to be found in most towns - but don’t rely on this in small island villages. Credit cards are commonly accepted, with the exception of smaller restaurants, shops and guest houses - check in advance.

Unicolor nautic G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 4, tel. 33 56

Banks & Exchanges

Shopping centres

06:30 - 22:00.

70/ 098 32 02 74, unimetal@optinet.hr. Nautical supplies QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, tel. 20 49 00, info@

callegro.com, www.callegro.com. Imagine shopping in an old Roman Forum, well this is your opportunity. Callegro is a new experience all-round. Situated in the heart of Zadar, this complex is a fantastic balance of modern architecture surrounded by elements of ancient history. You can go shopping; see a great flick at the cinemas, relax in the café and more. Whatever you wish for is there. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00.

City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. 30 01 00/ 21 31 11, www.trgovinskicentar-zadar.hr. Q Open 08:00 24:00. P

92 93 94 9155

Aquarius D-2, Nova vrata bb, tel. 21 29 19, juresko@ zd.t-com.hr, www.juresko.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

Contus O-1, Ante Starčevića 2, tel. 31 44 77. QOpen

Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel.

062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. 36 39 20, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,

Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. OTP B-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. 062 20 14 09/ 062 20 14 08, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Supermarkets Drogerie Markt D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 11, tel. 362 60 53. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Getro Jadranska cesta bb, tel. 34 39 20. They really have the best prices of everything. For all the food and drinks go here.

QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PA Kaufland L-3, Andrije Hebranga 2, tel. 23 42 10.

QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AL Konzum C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. 25 05 07. Great selection of everything you need. Also at: J.J.Strossmayera 6 (L-4) and Super Konzum at Ante Starčevića bb. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PA Plodine kod Mare C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 16, tel. 31 66 05. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. N Sarag C-2, Dalmatinskog Sabora 8, tel. 25 49 84.

QOpen 06:30 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:30. A

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Real estate Gea D-3, Široka ulica 10/1, tel. 25 11 33/ 25 10 69, gea3@zd.t-com.hr, www.gea.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Gold commerce D-3, Špire Brusine 1, tel. 31 65 74, 31 41 61/ 098 28 98 88, 098 30 22 11, www.goldcommerce.hr. They are always available on mobile number 098 289 888. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 11:00.

Closed Sun. Chonic D-3, Špire Brusine 10/I, tel. 31 16 67/ 098 73 60 59, 091 564 62 10, www.chonic-nekretnine.hr.

QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Palmes Ugljan 22, Island Ugljan, tel. 28 80 27/ 098 187 15 30, palmes@palmes-nekretnine.hr, www.palmesnekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Phoenix I-4, Strossmayerova 6a, tel. 23 91 39, 23 91 41/ 091 235 92 33, info@nekretnine-phoenix.hr, www.phoenix-nekretnine.net. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Sanmark D-2, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. 30 01 93/ 098 71 42 40, sanmark@sanmark.hr, www.sanmark.hr.

They are always available on mobile 098 714 240 QOpen 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax free heaven

Brokerage houses OTP B-3, Domovinskog rata 3, tel. 062 20 17 07/ 062 20 17 09, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connections HGK - Županijska komora Zadar D-3, Špire Brusine 16, tel. 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. 31 92 24/ 31 92 73, ok-zadar@zd.t-com. hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.

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LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Dry cleaners & Laundries Etilen L-3, Bana Josipa Jelačića 10a, tel. 23 05 54.

Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

ISLANDS

Photocopying Pharos C-3, Široka ulica 6, tel. 31 70 54, pharos@ zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:30, Sat

Closed Sun. Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. 21 34 71. Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Laundrowash self service L-6/D-3, Špire Brusine 16, tel. 31 13 40, zadar@laundrowash.com, www. laundrowash.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Lotos I-4, Miroslava Krleže 19a, tel. 33 51 40. Laundries.

QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.

Wash & Dry self service 0-5, Vlatka Mačeka 26, tel.

098 905 48 51. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Trimat grafika D-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. 31 43 73/ 30 07 60, grafika@trimat.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency health care

Police station C-3, Zore Dalmatinske 1, tel. 34 51 41,

Hitna medicinska pomoć B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 28B, tel. 23 98 11, fax 23 98 19. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Hospital Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. 31 56 77,

opca-bolnica-zadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.bolnica-zadar.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Interpreters & Translators Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. 31 43 99, acro@zd.tcom.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Geo K-2, Put Vukića 23, tel. 098 964 24 34, jasminka. bajlo@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Pharmacies Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. 23 58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. 30 29 20.

QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina 14, tel. 25 13 42/ 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6a, tel. 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30.

Closed Sun. A

Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Photodevelopment Vitas Boško C-3, Varoška 1, tel. 21 37 01/ 098 71 37 72. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Police station pitanja@mup.hr, www.mup.hr.

Tyre repair Gulan P-1, Put crvenih kuća 38, tel. 24 16 79. QOpen

08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Marčina Branko Zagrebačka 37, tel. 098 33 19 16.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vulkanizer P-1, Vlatka Mačeka bb, tel. 21 31 58.

QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Vets Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. 32 36 25/ 091

563 01 61, animalia@zd.htnet.hr, www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you’ve brought your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets, including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, laboratory tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations. Animalia has everything your four-legged companion may ever need! Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. 31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar.com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Veterinarska stanica K-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel. 32 28 77/ 32 19 45. Animal clinic. For an emergency call 098 33 94 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. 21 42 95, www.zoovet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Dugi otok

Sali, Božava - divinig, beach, Telaščica Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional l o cal c os tum e in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast.

If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers.

Nearby is a beach called Saharun, which has white sand - true hedonism. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island.

Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.

A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep).

Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

Telaščica Nature Park, Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali tel. 37 70 96 / 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica. hr. Information 07:00 - 15:00. Sat&Sun closed.

Iž This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, an d sh o wca s e s a lo cal o ddi t y, wa ter basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders li ve from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Tourist information



Tourist information Veli Iž, tel: 27 70 21 Hotel Korinjak, tel: 27 70 64

Pag Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming

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ISLANDS lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.

These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making.

Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s

Pag Lace Photo by Branka Primorac Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.

Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive – expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the lacemaker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see page 45 Shopping). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports

ISLANDS catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid.15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed

by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches an d a mu s eum of lace makin g.

There are several good restaurants In th e las t few years, Pa g h as also buil t th e repu tation as Croa tia’s par t y islan d, an d th e place where it all happ ens is th e town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Ist, Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by lowlying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and

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fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage.

If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovine Naturist Camp, which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Tourist information

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Pašman Tourist Board, Pašman bb, tel. 26 01 55. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Silba, Olib, Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere.

The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravely beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bi t less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline b r i n g i n g Ve l e b i t ’ s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns.

Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

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Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches.

The perfect getaway.

Tourist information

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Silba, tel. 37 01 75. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00.

Premuda - call Zadar County Tourist Board, tel. 31 53 16, www.zadar.hr, tz-zd-zup@zd.tcom.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from th e coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking (see “Sport”), a great way to see the numerous historical si tes on the island.

There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Association - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church.

The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

Tourist information

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Preko Tourist Board, Preko - Island of Ugljan tel. 28 61 08, www.prekoinfo.com, tzpreko@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Kukljica Tourist Board, tel. 37 32 76, www.kukljica. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

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NIN - ZATON Embark on a journey where the two tiny towns of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings. Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona.

When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea – the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

To this very day, Nin has played an essential role in Croatian history. It is famous for being the oldest ever Croatian Royal town. As far back a s t h e 1 2 c e n t u r y, kings were honourably crowned in the Church of Saint Nicholas located on the outskirts of the old town; many have regarded Nin as the cradle of the Croatian state, one strongly influenced by Christianity.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the towns whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.

The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments.

Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century)

NIN - ZATON Tourist information

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Nin Tourist Board, tel. 26 52 47, 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com.hr , www. nin.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Zaton Tourist Board, tel. 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zaton-zd.hr.

QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Holiday Village Zaton, tel. 28 02 80, sales.dept@ zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world.

The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.

A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway. We recommend that you visit: Park Solana Nin, Ilirska cesta 4, tel. 26 47 64. Open 07:00 15:00. From July 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 10kn.

Dar Mar Donkey Farm, Poljica, tel. 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71. Admission 10kn.

Kaštelin Tower (16th century) According to the Latin inscription and the shield bestowed above the tower, it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus in 1593. It is one of three towers erected by the Venetians with the aim of protecting the town of Nin, from a Turkish invasion.

Church of Saint Andrew (6th-16th century) Built according to Roman architecture, the Church of Saint Andrew still leaves some unanswered questions in regards to its initial use. It is assumed that these were buildings built as part of a Roman harbour or for farming and living in the country (villa rustica). The church of Saint Andrew is an incredibly valuable building deriving from the early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which, together with the changes that were made, had remained true to its purpose until the 16th century when it was destroyed.

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Underwater Archeology Serilia liburnic is one of the most important underwater findings discovered beneath the ancient harbour of Aenona in Zaton, dating from the 1st century AD. At the museum of Nin antiquates, a partial reconstruction of the serilia (a ship used by the Illyrian people Liburni and Histri), is exhibited. The name serilia vindicates that they were sown with lax and žukova ropes. The remains of the original two Liburnian serilias discovered in the ancient harbour in Zaton are the best preserved ships of any sown construction in the whole of the Mediterranean. They showcase the old pre-metal tradition of ship construction within the Liburni people who had also preserved other remains of the pre-Indo-European Mediterranean heritage.

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BIOGRAD Tourist information

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Biograd n/m Tourist Board, Trg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. 38 31 23 / 38 53 82, www.tzg-biograd.hr, info@ tzg-biograd.hr. Information on activites and trips, maps of the area. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 -12:00.

A royal past and an active present The small

but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings. Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s his tor y was th e coronation of Koloman a s Croa t-Hun garian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungar y were joined under a single crowned head this time, by treaty.

Yo u c a n s t i l l s e e evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pl easan t old cen tre of: an obelisk bearing the date 925: the date of th e coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croa tian kin g an d a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125.

BIOGRAD There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rochus (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 22, tel. 38 37 21. Open 09:00-12:00, 20:00-22:00. Closed Sun. Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. To either side of the peninsula are marinas - the one to the east belonging to th e h otels Adria ti c, I l i r ij a a n d Ko r n a t i .

Pleasan t seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attracti vel y plan te d wi th la wn s and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre, past th e aforemen tioned complex of three hotels is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities.

The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka itself you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

In the centre of Biograd itself, you can try out an interesting concept - Carpymore, a Dalmatian pub! As well as a host of other places to relax with a drink, there are some good restaurants - check out our “Where to eat” section under “Out of town”. In July and August, the streets and squares are alive with cultural events such as exhibitions, performance art and folk dance. Don’t miss Gradska Galerija Biograd, Obala Krešimira IV (Riva), tel 38 59 18. Owner Teodora is extremely friendly, and has a good selection of paintings, as well as original jewellery and bags.

Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock

of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite has a grea t fish restaurant. I t’s a ni c e break from the hubbub of the coast.

Vransko Jezer o Nature Park, Trg Petra Svačića 2, Biograd tel. 38 31 81.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, ju s t a hop away from Biograd’s shores.

Th ere’s an old ligh th ouse th ere and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.

Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

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AGROTOURISM Asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long.

Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled.

The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

Fertile plains The contrast between the relative prosperity of life on the Dalmatian coast and the Zadar hinterland couldn’t be more stark. Despite the fertility of the Ravni kotari plains where grapevines have been tended for centuries and cherry orchards once bloomed, to eke out a living here is tough.

Industry and “development” as we understand it in an urban sense have barely touched the way of life here.

It takes vision to see that this is, in fact, a blessing. It’s a blessing which has been turned to the advantage of settlements in other parts of Croatia, such as Istria, where a new kind of tourism has developed catering for those of us who seek to escape from modern life when we have a little free time. In places like this, we can enjoy peace, complete rest and enrich our understanding of how our forebears lived.

We can live the natural way, eating traditional food, and the wine we drink imbues us with a sense of the paternal care which has gone into making every drop, far from the rattle of industry.This is what we mean by agrotourism, a concept which is taking off in many of the unspoilt corners of Europe.

And this is where the people of the lands behind Zadar see their future. Follow us to meet them, and find out what they’re doing…

First of all, let’s head for Benkovac, a historic settlement with a massive archaeological site in its environs that was once an important Bronze Age and Roman town. From Zadar, head for Benkovac, following the signs for Zemunik – the tiny airport with a runway that crosses the road, forcing cars to stop and wait at the barrier while a plane takes off or lands in front of you! This is the only place left in Europe where you

can experience this. In the villages around Benkovac you can find families who are tending the first tentative shoots of an agrotourism “industry”.

Stunning uplands. An equally rewarding way to enjoy untouched nature and air so clear it squeaks is to head for the Velebit mountains, where the Velebit Nature Park and Paklenica National Park afford a host of delights to hikers, bikers and climbers. Even if you’re not the active type, you can still enjoy local hospitality at a new mountain centre called “Vrata Velebita” – “The Velebit Gateway”. It’s been opened by an enterprising fellow an d a d e di ca te d enthusiast of the Velebit mountains, who has created a recreation centre wh ere you can camp, s ta y in a bungalow, indulge in games and enjoy a meal and a drop of wine in the rustic restaurant or wine tasting room. Even if you don’t intend to stay but just fancy poking into Velebit for the day, you can lock your food in a refrigerated cabinet and cook it yourself using the barbecues and cooking equipment provided. You can see that this place has been created by someone who knows his stuff.

Just a short walk up the hill from the centre, you have spectacular views over the Zadar Archipelago laid out in the sea below. Around are flower-strewn meadows of an incredible, lush green with fascinating peaks and rock formations. Nearby is also an unusual and ancien t c e m e t e r y ( “ p o č i va l a ” ) where, according to local custom, coffins were laid for a while so that souls could escape before the body was put in the grave.

Velebit is great either from the point of view of nature lovers and people looking to enjoy beautiful scenery, or for climbers. Both those groups should head to a field called Stap. Here, you can enjoy spectacular karst scener y – cli ffs, peaks, bridges, caves and windows – whilst surrounded by grass, beech forests and cool mountain air. Look out for signs left by the late Slavko Tomerlin Tatek, the area’s greatest explorer, who set up a cabin, carved artistic details in the rocks nearby, and installed a water pump for an underground spring. 10mins walk from the cabin he found a windowed cave which he named “The Chapel” and sculpted a statue of St Anthony to decorate it.

Getting there: Follow the coast road north of Zadar via Starigrad, and you come to the village of Tribanj-Krušćica.

Look for the signs for Ljubotić village, and turn right, following the road uphill for about 3.5km. The Vrata Velebita camp is at the end of the road. The camp is so well equipped there are even huge maps of hiking trails and places of interest for you to study as you attend to your toilette. The camp is within the Velebit Nature Park and just 12km from the Paklenica National Park.

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ZADAR DISTRICTs Arbanasi Arbanasi lies just to the north of Kolovare. It’s an old district where remnants of Neolithic settlements can still be found, as well as parts of the Roman aqueduct built to bring water to the city from Vransko lake 40km away, and a Roman necropolis in the grounds of the tobacco factory (still working). Arbanasi was once a settlement in its own right. It gained its name and its importance in the 18th century when migrants from Albania settled there after fleeing from the Turks. Today’s Arbanasi has a gentle, village feel. The atmosphere is quite different from the rest of the city. It’s worth a wander round to see how people live day by day away from the tourist hubbub.

Borik and Diklo A large complex of hotels and a campsite have evolved at Borik, which have managed not to overwhelm the forces of nature, so it’s still one of the most popular places for tourists and locals alike to spend time at the beach. An ever-growing number of cafes, bars and restaurants is springing up to cater for the rising number of visitors, and quite a bit of renovation is taking place at the moment, so facilities are ever improving.

Heading west from Borik is a beach-lined coastal path studded with places to eat and drink, surrounded by ever more peaceful residential areas and the beach area of Diklo. It’s a quieter place to stay, to relax and bathe.

Kolovare Directly east of the Old Town peninsula is Kolovare, a genteel district of beachside villas. Kolovare’s seafront is the old town beach as well, and a popular place to spend free time. You can walk all the way along the beatifically-named coast path (Karma) to the promontory at Punta Bajlo and the adjoining islet Sveti Klement, a former leper colony that is now a bathing spot (eeew!) The way is tree-lined, so shady by day, and punctuated by cafes. Near the beginning of the walk is the Fontana, an attractive 16th century well with a cupola, built by the Venetians for use by their naval fleets Old Town peninsula It goes without saying, it’s the heart and soul of the city.

Crowded onto the peninsula, fortified in its entireity but eternally under attack by foes through the ages, parts of the city have been destroyed and rebuilt so many times over three millennia that few places on Earth can rival it for its eclectic mix of architecture.

As well as the dizzying number of churches, monasteries and historical monuments, it’s also the commercial centre, with an ever-increasing choice of boutiques and galleries, and, of course, it’s the centre of social life and cafe society. The main shopping street Široka (known locally as Kalelarga) is a busy thoroughfare for people with things to do, even if that’s only strolling in good company. In summer it’s crowded with pavement cafes.

It’s surrounded by shady parks on top of the ancient fortifications. The outer promenade beyond the ferry por t, known as t h e Ri va, i s a relaxed place to stroll and swim.

Puntamika An area with quite some history dating back to Neolithic settlements.

It was an importan t d efen si ve p oin t b e cau s e geographically it guards the shipping entrance to the old town - that’s why the city lighthouse is here. The coastal road is bustling in summer, with cafes, restaurants and a marina.

Relja Relja is just north-east of the peninsula. Notice, as you walk northwards, some older buildings. They are called Talijanke (“the Italian girls”) because they were built during the times the Italians ruled Zadar. Though somewhat unremarkable from the outside, they are architecturally important with twisting stairwells and pleasant courtyards. Relja now has a shiny new indoor shopping centre full of boutiques and cafes.

Voštarnica, Brodarica Just over the footbridge and heading west, these districts still constitute the commercial and residential heart of the city.

Continue a little further north and you’ll come to a neighbourhood known as SAS after a former factory, and you’ll find the Gotham entertainment complex with its club, cafe and cinema next to the Nova Banka tower.

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Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Krnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Dinarska J-4 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Đure Sudete J-3,4

Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Forum K-6/C-3 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Grge Oštrića J-4 Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Grigora Viteza L-3 Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Ivana Bršića K-5 Ivana Danila K-6/A-3 Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4 Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3 Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3

Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1

Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3 Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4

Sirac L-6/D-4 Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Trg opatice Čike B-3 Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3 Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3 Trg sv. Frane K-6/A-3

Trg sv. Krševana Trg sv. Stošije Trg tri bunara Ulica BoreLli Varoška Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Veslačka Vjekoslava Maštrovića Vladimira Papafave Voštarnica Vrata sv. Kršovana Vrata sv. Roka Zadarskog mira Zlatarska Zore dalmatinske Zrinsko-Frankopanska

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K-5/B,C-2 K-6/B-3 K-5/A-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C,D-3 J,K-3,4 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 J-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-4 K-5 K-5 K-6 L-5/C-2 L-6/C-3 M-5

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