Zagreb In Your Pocket No58 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZAGREB February - March 2011

Shaking rump condition

Carnival fever hits Croatia!

Health

Granola for the body and soul N°58 - complimentary copy

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“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

COnTenTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Carnival Time

Where to stay

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

Sightseeing

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

Carnival time in Croatia begins! Read mor on page 17.

What to see All those things you mustn’t miss

Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around

Save on shoe leather Transport map

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure

Bowling or Ice Skating

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support

Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

Maps & Index

Ljubo Babić: Anthology, Smokvice kod Vignja, 1930., 07.12 Tuesday 10.04 Sunday, Modern Gallery. More on page 13.

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Street index City map City centre map Index Country map

54 55 56 58 59 February - March 2011

FOReWORd So you have just arrived to Zagreb and you’re walking through the city centre, you come across a juggling court jester, with effort you avoid him and as you turn, ‘Ouch!’ a gallant Knight in shining armor pokes his way through the busy crowd, you stumble only to be helped up by a Princess! Now you can’t get that smile off your face! Is it all a dream? Not at all, in fact your timing is perfect as its Carnival season and you simply have to attend the Zagreb Carnival which is a hit in this month’s edition. Don’t be shy to fancy dress. Besides the carnival there is so much on that we don’t even know where to begin. There are festivals, international concerts and orchestras. As for exhibitions, does the name Ljubo Babić mean anything? Film buffs have the annual ZagrebDox festival which has become tradition now. Don’t forget to check out our restaurant pages before Valentine’s Day if you’re unfamiliar in where to dine with your beloved other half. So take off the winter mittens as the season of spring is here.

In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

Guides in an instant… Did you know you can download free instant guides to many of our In Your Pocket destinations? They’re 12page versions featuring a careful selection of hotels, restaurants and other useful information. Simply go to our international homepage, www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com. You’ll see a banner at the top “Download instant guides”. Click on it, and a new page will open up. Choose the city you want, click and print! You’re ready to go!

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Grafing, Zagreb Published 6 times per year

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Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Zagreb County Tourist Board Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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aRRIvIng In ZagReB Tourist information



Tourist Information Centre C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@ zagreb-touristinfo.hr, w w w.zagrebtouristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area and at the Main Train station.QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.ured@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus

Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane

Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

BaSICS

complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the city should cost no more than 200kn (start 25kn, 1km/7kn, luggage 5kn). If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train

Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 24 April 25 May 1 June 22 June 23 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Anti Fascist Resistance Day Corpus Christi Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Customs

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zagreb (May 2001): 779,145 Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54% Serbs, 5.83% other. Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The high est peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and BosniaHerzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

-10 -20

F M A M J

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald’s Big Mac 17kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn Pizza slice 10kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free ) 8.26kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 7.55kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.32 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09 €1.37 €4.14 €1.37 €1.14 €1.04 €0.41 €1.37

Exchange rates (as of 02.02.2011.): US$1 = 5,4kn €1 = 7,42kn £1 = 8,71kn

Become a fan of Zagreb In Your Pocket on February - March 2011

HISTORY

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

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Culture & Events

1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

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February - March 2011

CulTuRe & evenTS

22.02 Tuesday

Scott Kelly

I-3, KSET, Unska 3, www.kset.org. This vocalist/guitarist is notably known for his work with the experimental metal band Neurosis. He has many side projects as well as his solo acoustic project. His most recent work is through a band called Shrinebuilder with their album released in 2009. Kelly plays more of an acoustic/folk style in Zagreb.

19.03 Saturday

Kawasaki 3p

Rock & Pop Concerts 09.02 Wednesday

Div4 and The Romeros with the Camerata Serbica Symphonic Orchestra

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. Four Italian female soprano singers better known as Div4 have dazzled audiences worldwide with their harmonious chords. They will be accompanied by the famous guitar quartet The Romeros, who are a classical family guitar institution of Spanish origin deriving from the USA. To bring it all together, Italy’s Marcello Rotta will conduct orchestral proceedings.

12.02 Saturday

Neno Belan & Fiumens

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Get a taste of Croatian pop with a beach boys feel in popular singer Neno Belan. He has been on the scene for over two decades and has amassed many chart topping hits even since forming with Fiumens in 1997. They have played over 600 concerts and this will have a special pre Valentine’s Day theme to it!

17.02 Thursday

Easy Star All-Stars

H-5, Aquarius Club, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, www.aquarius.hr. A reggae collective of musicians and singers from New York who are best known for producing remakes of great past albums with a reggae and dub style influence. Their interpretation of Pink Floyd’s ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ was a great success and they have also covered Radiohead, The Beatles and released their own originals.

I-4, Močvara, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.mochvara.hr. Devotees to punk music rest assured as this Zagreb outfit are sure to cause jovial havoc on stage. They have trialled for the Eurosong competition, won a Porin Music Award for best album in 2003 and released their second top seller, ‘Idu Bugari’ in 2009. They will rock your socks off this March!

19.03 Saturday

Sigi Feigl conducting proceedings. The highly regarded and sought after trumpeter Randal Brecker is the icing on the cake with his jazz, fusion, funk and R&B playing. Dire Straits, Lou Reed and Bruce Springsteen are some of the artists on his amazing portfolio.

20.02 Sunday

Another Porgy, a different Bess Brussels Jazz Orchestra

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. A revamped version of the folk opera ‘Porgy and Bess’ comes to Zagreb with Belgian singer and composer David Linx putting together an unabridged version of this musical along with the Brussels Jazz Orchestra. Linx himself plays as Porgy and Portuguese singer Maria Joao is Bess. This three hour operatic spin includes music from Summertime and other classic hits.

26.02 Saturday

Eldar Djangirov

Faithless

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Passionate about electronic music, then be sure to see this British band whose dance classics such as, ‘Insomnia’, ‘We Come 1’, ‘God is a DJ’ and ‘Mass Destruction’ are sure to wow the Croatian audience. They visit Zagreb for the second time in promotion of their latest album aptly named, ‘The dance’.

Jazz&Blues Concerts 14.02 Monday

Egberto Gismonti Duo

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4. Brazilian string guitarist who has for over four decades intrigued audiences with his experimental finger manouvering over 8 to 14-string customised guitars. His early work fused classical music, jazz-rock and Brazilian choro. Gismonti’s musical crafts also inclue playing the flute, piano, kalimbas, sho and bells on stage. From African to Gypsy, European to New Orleans, its all there! Q Tickets 200kn available at the box office.

18.02 Friday

Zagreb Philharmonics goes Jazz with Randal Brecker

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concer t Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. A joint concert by the HGM Jazz Orchestra and the Zagreb Philharmonics with Austrian Jazz musician and conductor

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. He is snazzy on the piano and even probes into a bit of electronica, but it is Djagiroy’s passion for bebop, hard bop, post bop and swing that he is known for. Above all, jazz is his focus as seen in his musical improvisations; something Sony Records recognized having signed him as a teen.

06.03 Sunday

HGM Zagreb Jaz z Orchestra with Donny McCaslin (saxophone)

C-3, Zagreb Puppet Theatre, Baruna Trenka 3, www. hgm.hr. McCaslin has played in a plethora of ensembles and toured the world over. Since his scholarship days at Berklee College he has also recorded and released his own music alongside other collaborations. His exemplary saxophone craftsmanship is worth a look as he joins our own HGM Zagreb Jazz Orchestra.

Classical Music Concerts 01.03 Tuesday

The Prague Symphony Orchestra

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. Founded in 1934 and still going strong to the day, the orchestra has travelled extensively throughout Europe, Japan and the United States and has recorded for many different labels. Chief conductor Jiří Kout leads a night of orchestral splendor.

From the archives of the Dox Festival

Croatian Music Institute, Chamber Orchestra

08.03 Tuesday

Zoltán Kocsis & Barnabás Kelemen

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concer t Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. A dynamic duo from Hungary unite with pianist, conductor and composer Kocsis illuminating the keys on piano whilst countryman Kelemen masters the violin. Kocsis is known for his recordings of Debussy, Bartok and Beethoven whilst Kelemen’s repertoire includes both contemporary and classical pieces.

12.03 Friday

Ivo Pogorelić I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. This supreme Croatian pianist has won prestigious awards throughout the world. From New York’s Carnegie Hall to the first classical pianist ever to be invited to Kuwait, his recitals of Bach, Mozart, Beethoven and all the other greats have bought him much praise as he returns to Zagreb to perform in front of his home audience.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 19.02 Saturday

Magdalena Kožená

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. This young mezzo-soprano from the Czech Republic is an established major concert and recital artist. She has released numerous CDs covering the works of greats such as Dvorak, Handel and Mozart. This inspiring stage figure with a graceful voice will present her recent works Lettere Amoros and more. Ozren Trupeljak, From the archives of the Zvonimir Gallery

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Ivana Tomljenović Meller, Zagrebian in Bauhaus, Prague 1933.

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CulTuRe & evenTS 10.03 Thursday

CulTuRe & evenTS Ivo Kerdić, Modern Gallery, 19.05 Thursday - 12.06 Sunday

Elina Garanča

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića, www.lisinski.hr. This Latvian born singer is a breath of fresh air in opera circles having appeared at world major opera houses and concert venues. Thanks to her beautiful voice, musicianship and compelling stage portrayals, she has won countless awards including the recent MIDEM Classical Awards and is one of the music world’s newest stars.

19.03 Saturday

The Metropolitan in Lisinski: G. Donizetti: Lucia De Lammermoor I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr. Opera goers seeking drama and chill should not resist this tragic script by Donizetti. A fragile Lucia is caught in a feud between her family and the Ravenswoods. This tale of love and death is quaintly based on the historical Scottish novel, ‘The Bride of Lammermoor’ and contains three acts with the finale dubbed as, ‘The Made scene’.

26.03 Saturday

Richard Wagner: Parsifal B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, info@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Rich in music and lyrics, this tremendous story delves into the struggle between good and evil in the quest for the Holy Grail. Wagner’s final opera is filled with symbolism, drum rolls and overtures in what is a grand and epic tone where in the finale, light shines over darkness. Antonio Rossetti, Unederwater Photography, Brake dance

Exhibitions 01.11 Sunday - 01.07 Friday

Memories of a ban - The Jelačić Legacy in the Croatian History Museum

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00. One of the most important family legacies in Croatian history is to be presented with over 700 different museum artefacts which testify to the role of the Jelačić family in a wider social and historical context. The commanding figure of ban Josip Jelačić is analysed as well as how he was criticised and later turned into a cult figure and a symbol of Croatian independence.

16.11 Tuesday - 27.02 Sunday

Vasilije Josip Jordan

C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, info@modgal.t-com.hr, www.modernagalerija.hr. With over one-hundred oil on canvas and drawings as painted by this great artist from 1950 to 2010, the ten halls on the second floor of the Gallery are set to be filled with his majestic artworks. By the time he had held his first solo exhibition at the Modern Gallery in 1972, thus entering into the history books of Croatian modern fine art, Jordan had already swayed audiences with three solo exhibitions held across European art centres in Antwerp, Brussels and Paris, as well as in dozens of other cities of the former state. The first to recognize the uniqueness of his poetic surrealism, especially the metaphysical atmosphere of his paintings and the innovative mixture of the classical and contemporary were European galleries and audiences outside the artist’s birthplace of Zagreb. As Jordan has rarely exhibited in his hometown, this retrospective will be the first true presentation of his opus and surely an art feast of the ‘highest quality’, for which the Croatian crowd has waited too long.

25.11 Thursday - 30.04 Saturday

It’s in the bag! A journey with a Croatian bag!

D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@etnografski-muzej.hr, www. emz.hr. Forget the fashion labels as we’re travelling back to the last quarter of the 19th century to reveal the intricate details of ‘bags’ and their manufacturing. The amount of decoration, material, symbols, size, colour, and style were paramount in the production and purpose of bags. Each region had its particularities. See how this really is divine design, back in time!

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30.11 Tuesday - 27.02 Sunday

Ivana Tomljenović Meller (1906-1988) Zagrebian in Bauhaus

C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, muzej-grada-zagreba@mgz.hr, www.mgz. hr. From Zagreb to Bauhaus, this retrospective is filled with photos Tomljenović had taken of her lifeworks across Europe. Photo-montage, double exposition and experimenting with negatives were not only signs of her work, but the state of photography in the early to mid 20th century.

07.12 Tuesday - 10.04 Sunday

Ljubo Babić: Anthology

C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, www.moderna-galerija.hr. His work was his passion and Babić felt the need to promote Croatian art across Europe from the1920s to the1970s. He did so with commitment and as the first custodian of the Modern Gallery (1919), and author of its first display (1920), two-hundred of his fine art and prints (oil on canvas, pastel and aquarelle paintings), plus scenography and designer works will present his outstanding opus.

of art works which grew over the centuries, collected and preserved in the many churches and monasteries of the Franciscan province of St Jerome of Zadar, which stretches from Istria to the southernmost tip of Dalmatia. The collection is brought together for the first time, and this exhibition promises a magical Christmas splendour which can be enjoyed by everyone.

26.01 Wednesday - 30.04 Saturday

Art déco in Croatia in the interwar period

B-3, The Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. The Art deco wave of the 1920s and 1930s was glamorous, elegant and even resistant during the World Wars. This exhibit brings together works kept in leading museums and private collections from around Croatia. Ljubo Babić, Krsto Hegedušić, Vladimir Becić, Oskar Herman and other national greats were part of this art movement and their works will be showcased.

16.12 Thursday - 20.02 Sunday

Divine Grace-The Artistic Heritage of the Franciscan Province of St Jerome C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. 800 years ago, St Francis of Assisi was caught in a storm at sea and arrived on the Croatian coast, where he found shelter and safety. Here he established Franciscan communities, and this anniversary of the Franciscan order is celebrated by the Klovićevi dvori Gallery with the exhibition “Milost susreta”, which offers a unique opportunity to see the Franciscans’ rich treasury

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Ljerka Njerš, From the Archives of the HAZU Glyptotheque

February - March 2011

CulTuRe & evenTS

01.03 Tuesday - 31.05 Tuesday

Special events

L’amour Du Risque - A selection from FRAC (The French Regional Contemporary Ar t Collection)

14.02 Monday

J-5, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. These exhibited works are by artists who have purposefully chosen to break the norms and the expectations of custodians and art critics. They have taken the risk factor, drifted from the mainstream and have shown through form, content and media that free creativity remains within the art system.

12.01 Wednesday - 20.03 Sunday

Technical Drawings of Croatian Wooden Ships (Terce jadranskih brodica) A-4, Technical Museum, Savska 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. An appreciation of the design and outlay of traditional and forgotten Adriatic ships such as the bracera, gajeta, falkuša and those from the Rovinj, Dubrovnik and Neretva regions will be shown. Velimir Salomon presents seventy drawings which have been enhanced by colour thus adding to the technical dimension of the final product. This is a nautical adventure! Alain Séchas, L’amour Du Risque - A selection from FRAC (The French Regional Contemporary Art Collection)

Up in Smoke festival: Colour Haze, Rotor, Sungrazer B-4, KSET, Unska 3, info@kset.org, www.kset.org. This cult concert series comes to Zagreb with infamous bands from the experimental and psychedelic rock genre deriving from Germany and Holland. Stoner rock meets melodic like fusion riffs in what will make Valentine’s all the more memorable for their fans.

24.02 Thursday - 27.03 Sunday

T-HTnagrada@msu.hr

J-5, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Contemporary artists listen in as for the third year running the Museum of Contemporary Art and T-HT (Croatian Telecom) are organizing a course competition with a focus on multimedia productions using picture and sound - it entails video, experimental film, internet art, robotic and electronic art. A foreign jury will select the best works to be presented.

27.02 Sunday - 06.03 Sunday

The 7th ZagrebDox - International Festival of Documentary Film

I-2, Movieplex Cinema, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www.zagrebdox.net. Submit a film, or choose to watch from over 140 renowned and dare we say, not so known films. There is the acclaimed international and regional competition as well as a tribute to French guru Nicolas Philibert. Hot on the agenda is a retrospective marking the 20th anniversary since the Homeland War. Plenty to pick and choose from!

05.03 Saturday

The Zagreb Carnival

C-2, Cvjetni trg (Flower Square), www.cekate.hr. It is siesta time with our city carnival set to light up the Flower Square. From the jousting carnivals of the 1700’s to the masquerade balls of the 1920’s, the tradition continues in a modern day setting so dress up, wear a mask and be a part of the colour, fun, music and dance; be what you have always wanted to be, in the true spirit of carnival.

06.03 Sunday

Bolshoi Ballet in Film - Don Quijote

For the Kids Submarine A-4, Technical Museum, Savska

18, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Have you ever seen a submarine? Well here is your chance! This restored and rebuilt CB 20 submarine from WWII was built in Italy, 1943, and was later captured by the Yugoslav Navy. It was nicknamed, ‘The Little One’ as it was the so-called pocket submarine, 15 meters long and 3 meters wide and is the only one left out of 26 in its original size.

I-2, Movieplex Cinema, Kaptol Centre, Nova Ves 17, www.movieplex.hr. A totally new experience is just around the corner as you can be a part of 300 cinemas across the globe that will project a live coverage of three ballet shows from Moscow featuring the stars of the Bolshoi Theatre. The second ballet on the list will be Don Quijote, a ballet show in 3 acts and based on the famous novel by Miguel de Cervantes.

09.03 Wednesday

Gregorian

A-4, Dražen Petrović Sports Hall, Savska. Don’t be fooled by the title, yes this is Gregorian music but isn’t Gregorian chant in its purest form. This German group, headed by Frank Peterson, includes twelve previously acclaimed session and choir singers who transform more popular tracks, with elements of pop. It’s experimental, it’s harmonious and it’s hip, all in one!

13.03 Sunday

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Fire of Anatolia

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište. Taking the world by fire, this Turkish dance sensation amalgamates hundreds of styles

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of Anatolian folk and contemporary dance in one music spectacle! It is spiritual, rhythmic, vigorous and emotional. The show lays claim to the Guinness Records for one of the fastest dance performances with 241 steps per minute. Travelling the world over, Zagreb gets a treat from the East.

From the Archives of the Zagreb City Museum

20.03 Saturday - 26.03 Friday

RAF The Review of Amateur Film

w w w.revijamasterskog f ilma.hr. A stag gering 500 independent short, experimental and feature films from all over the world will be presented and the intention is not to accept or reject, but to ‘present’ all film entries! It covers all genres and includes workshops, exhibitions, concerts and promotions. A true paradise for non-commercial film buffs!

31.03 Thursday

Footloose the Musical - Premiere

www.footlooseincroatia.com. A city boy comes to a small town where rock music and dancing have been banned, and in his endeavor to change all this, a fast pitched, emotional, rhythmic and energetic story is born. Based on the hit 1984 film, this musical is a contemporary remake with all the gloss, choreography and great music. It is the first private musical production in Croatian and at the Broadway level.

01.04 Friday - 03.04 Sunday

FRKA - The 9th Film Review of the Academy Dramatic Art- a student film festival www.frka.adu.hr. This platform for presenting the work of the Academy’s drama students has become an important cultural event in its own right. Held every two years, the festival’s material is collected and committed to film in the time in between. Screenings take place from the early afternoon, and after 10pm on Friday and Saturday the Academy will host parties with dance troupes, young musicians and DJs. The award ceremony will be held on Sunday after the last film is screened.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb,

tel. (+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 40kn.

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Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn. Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, info@ brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5-10kn.

February - March 2011

CaRnIval TIme

CulTuRe & evenTS Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, www.hd-naiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of bright-coloured paintings. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 42 47. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 36 02. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Buzančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel.

Small galleries

Vilko Gecan, Cinik, 1921.

These are the places where you can find all kinds of intriguing exhibitions and installations run by various groups. It’s a dynamic scene - well worth checking out Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 99. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Culture pass Wh a t i s th e cul tu re pas s? The membership card of the Jeunesses Musicales Croatia, fo r yo u n g p e op l e fro m 14 to 30 years old. Created in par tnership with all leading cultural institutions in Croatia, the Culture Pass gets you discounts (from 10 to 100%) when you buy concert and theatre tickets, entrance fees to galleries, museums and festivals, as well as special offers when you buy CDs, musical instruments and more… (more on www. hgm.hr/kulturni_pokaz). How do you get your Culture Pass? It’s easy! Send us an e-mail or call us to arrange your Culture Pass: Tel: (+385-1) 611 46 40, e-mail: kulturni.pokaz@hgm. hr or hgm@hgm.hr. Download a list of places where you can use your Culture Pass: www.hgm.hr/KULTURNI%20 POKAZ%20-%20ADRESAR.pdf. Your Culture Pass is valid for one year in all Croatian cities (Zagreb, Rijeka, Dubrovnik…) Or any other city… go out, look around and enjoy great concerts!

Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-1) 614 01 90, czk-novi-zagreb@zg.t-com.hr, www. czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+385-1) 377 08 96, galerija.vladimira.nazora@kgz.hr, www.kvn. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija.zvonimir@ morh.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Cinemas Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17

(Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall. QOpen 13:00 - 21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing the best regional and world docs. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 10:00 - 22:00 or the net www. dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. Tickets for the Grič Cinema can be booked easily, every day from 8:00 - 22:00 on 487 28 88. Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. Q Tickets 15kn. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. Q Tickets 20-25kn. Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Tickets 10kn.

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A Parade of Carnivals! The flair, the glare, the excitement and the dazzling costumes are just some of the elements we consider to be a part of any carnival. Well, behold, dear readers, as your traditional carnival in Croatia includes not only these glittering essentials but also something different, something spooky, something quite hair-raising, in fact. You may be scared right now but let us tell you that this is a great time to be in Croatia, as you can join the locals in scattering evil ghosts and releasing a year's wor th of frustrations all under the cover of fancy dress. This is, indeed, taken to be the norm, a ritual intended to cleanse your soul before the warm season of spring arrives. You see, carnival season is conne cted wi th ancient traditions from th ese areas that go b a ck to t h e Mid dl e A ge s. Ac c ordin g to Slavic pagan customs, carnivals would begin closer to the beginning of the year when locals would parade the streets, marching and cheering, they’d attend masquerades, fancy dress balls, wear costumes and sing to drive away evil spirits. This would carry on all the way to Shrove Tuesday, the day before Lent - the time of fasting, a time of moving away from our wrong doings and preparing for Easter. Quite often the final day of celebrations finish with the ceremonial judgment of an imaginary character blamed for everything bad that has happened over the past year. In the Zagreb region this individual is styled on a prince and is named the fašnik, though his moniker is different in other parts of the country. But wherever you go, he is the one who represents all our problems, troubles and miseries, who takes the blame and is then symbolically burned in a blazing bonfire. A little harsh, you say? Not in the least! Nowadays, carnivals around the country intertwine the customs of old with the fun and glamour of the present day. Everyone is welcome as the carnivals include all generations, with some wholehearted devotees preparing for the show all year round. You’ll see the evidence of this in the magnificent costumes that are worn, some traditional and others so wacky that they would make fashion designers dance with glee.

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Most of the carnivals take place at weekends and consist of a plethora of activities ranging from masquerade balls, carnival parades, exhibitions, tours, sporting events, dandy rituals and other celebrations. Needless to say, the amount of food and drink consumed at such events is astonishing, but at least you get to taste an array of gastronomic delights. Every region has its own customs, so wherever you happen to be, why not join in the fun, embrace the spirit of carnival and experience it in a unique way. Let’s get an insight into what’s happening and where... In and around Zagreb 5 March: Fašnik in Zagreb (Carnival in Zagreb), Cvjetni trg (Flower Square), musical programme from midday, www. cekate.hr. 5-6 March: Living Pictures Reinvigorate the past! Relive some tales of Old Zagreb during the last weekend before Lent at this costume party held at the Zagreb City Museum. Don’t be surprised when you come across some famous characters from the city’s earlier period who will tell you their own stories. Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61 The idyllic little town of Samobor is just a few kilometers away from Zagreb and has one of Croatia's most popular and longest-running carnivals. Festivities begin on 26 February and run through to 8 March. Good old Prince Fašnik is blamed for all the misfortunes in the region and is of course punished by being burnt in a bonfire. It’s witty and political as there is a judge and lawyer who defend the Prince by satirising current affairs in a highly humorous way. There will be food and mulled wine on the square, competitions, fancy dress parades, a costume ball - and lots of wild behaviour!

Samoborček buses leave from the Zagreb Bus Station, Črnomerec and Ljubljanica every 20 minutes, departures begin in the early morning from 5am through to 10 or 11pm. There are no night bus lines, however come Friday and Saturday evening, the buses ride all the way to Podsused where you can catch ZET night city transport. A one way ticket will set you back between 22 and 25 kuna. For further information, visit the Samobor Tourist Office at Trg kralja Tomislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 336 00 44, www.samoborski-fasnik.com. Zagreb’s little neighbouring town of Velika Gorica is celebrating its 102nd anniversary and the town is set to transform into a Carnival paradise. The weekend of the 5–6 March has a jolly list of events on the agenda. Grand Carnival

February - March 2011

Culture & Events

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2011

carnival time Đakovački bušari

Day on Saturday sees the grown ups' parade starting at 14:00 and the judging of costumes, winding up with live concerts with local bands performing in the Carnival marquee in the Dr. Franjo Tuđman park in the evening. The Little Carnival is on Sunday, and is dedicated to the wee ones, who take part in a cute costumed parade. There will be acrobats, clowns, jugglers and magicians on hand to entertain. ZET buses (line 268) ride from the main bus station every 10 to 15 minutes, whilst night lines ride every hour. A one way ticket costs 10 kuna with the driver or 8 kuna if you purchase it at a kiosk. www.vgfasnik.com In and around Rijeka By far the biggest and most popular carnival of all in Croatia! In fact, according to the Sunday Times Newspaper, the Rijeka Carnival is one of the most exotic of th es e world even ts tha t happ en a t th e beginning of each year. This sea-side city has a chill in the air at this time of year, but the carnival traditions that date back to the Middle A ge s c er tainl y h o t things up. The Rijeka Carnival has become an international event with over ten thousand participants and more than a hundred floats and carts from dozens of different countries. By the time you read this the fun will have started on 17 January with the handing over of the city keys to carnival authorities. But the best is yet to come as proceedings continue till 25 February. The Children’s Carnival parade has the cutie-pie factor, while the International Parade is nothing short of spectacular with over one hundred thousand people attending. The traditional costumes from the local area

Zagreb In Your Pocket

carnival time are spectacular, so do head down to the coast and indulge in the chance to enjoy a cup of coffee in the winter sun. Don’t let distance deter you from coming as the trip from Zagreb now takes under two hours by car thanks to the new full Zagreb-Rijeka motorway; buses take 2-3 hours and trains rather longer. See the official carnival homepage www.ri-karneval.com.hr for further details. Other carnival events around Rijeka: (06.01–25.02) Pust 2009 Matulji; (05.02-08.03) Krčki karneval Krk town, Krk island; (17.01–09.03) Pust va Kastve 2009 Kastav; (17.01–09.03) Lovran carnival Lovran; (20.02) International Children's Carnival Corso, Opatija, (27.02) Balinjerada a unique event held with decorated vehicles on so-called 'balinjera' wheels, Opatija. Our islanders are also no slackers when it comes to knowing how to party, so whilst you’re in Rijeka why not hop down to the island of Pag for their carnival. This takes place on the nine weekends leading up to Lent. There's a masquerade ball every Saturday until events culminate on the weekend of the 6-9 March. Witness traditional dances, in particular the Paško kolo folk dance, see the famous folk costumes and join in on the masked parade for that element of surprise. It’s held outdoors on the main Petar Krešimir IV Square, and you can also dig into the great hot food and homemade delicacies on offer. Simply jump onto the Jadrolinija ferry from Prizna or the catamaran from Rijeka. A little closer to home, the town of Crikvenica is just a half-hour drive heading south from Rijeka. Here, the locals also lay on nine weekends of fun with events taking place every Saturday until 8 March. There'll be a big marquee on the Petak car park next to the bus station, where you'll be able to catch performances by stars from the Croatian light entertainment scene. Apart from that, events will include three carnival parades (one featuring local groups and their guests, another for pensioners and the third for children). Check out www.maskare.net for a complete programme of events for Crikvenica and the surrounding area. To get there, take a local bus from Rijeka or one of five daily lines from Zagreb. The trip by bus from Zagreb takes 3-4 hours (stopping service), while by car you'll be there in two hours.

Not too distant from Rijeka is Senj, a little town huddled on the coast under the Velebit Mountains, on the way to Zadar. It's famous for pirates, strong winds and fiery people. History has it that masked balls were held in the town as far back as 1658 - that must explain why their carnival is so wild and such great fun. Expect themed masked balls every Saturday at the Magnus discotheque and a children’s dance on Sundays from 8 January till 9 March. Senj isn’t so well known as a tourist destination, and that's why you'll find it unspoilt and full of character. We recommend you try it out - it's less than a two-hour drive from Zagreb. www.tz-senj.hr The notorious antics that happen at carnivals continue at the coastal town of Zadar, where kings were once crowned, and now carnival reigns from 4-6 March. The main events will be held between 11:00 and 13:00 in the center, around the main square and Kalelarga, the main street in the Old Town. On Sunday 6 March in the afternoon, carnival parades attract participants from neighbouring areas and the surrounding islands of Zadar County. On 8 March in the evening hours you can expect a lot of parties in the Varoš area of the Old Town.

Further south and off the Dalmatian mainland is the island of Lastovo where you’ll see a carnival that pays particular respect to history. The carnival is named the Poklad and legend has it that it dates back to a time when the island was attacked by Catalan pirates. After praying to Saint George for deliverance, the islanders were saved, and they have commemorated the event ever since. Sounds victorious! Festivities begin on 17 January with a grand opening of the dance hall which will be the scene of a ball every Saturday. All are welcome, in fancy dress or regular attire. Events reach their peak on the fabulously named “Obese Sunday and Monday” - the days before Shrove Tuesday. Sunday is the date dedicated to fun for the children, and on Monday a dummy of the Poklad – a Catalan pirate is made. On Shrove Tuesday this unfortunate fellow is sent flying on a ripwire from a peak above the town, fireworks cracking at his heels. Humiliation indeed. You'll witness locals in decorative traditional costume and have the chance to take part in an egg hunt. See www. lastovo.net/poklad.html for further details. If you’re travelling further south, there are carnival festivities in and around the medieval city of Dubrovnik: 04.02 – 06.03 Dubrovnik Carnival Fest Carnival time in Dubrovnik is celebrated with five weekends of parades featuring parties of revellers in fancy dress, as well as live music and parties. Events take place all over town, and the carnival parades will be feature groups from the nearby countries of Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro and Slovenia – that's over 1000 participants in all. The good news for anyone without the wherewithal to make their own costume is that Renaissance-style costumes

Zadar Carnival

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are available for hire at reasonable prices. Now is your chance to be a fair damsel or dashing merchant! There will be an accompanying programme of performances and exhibitions, and as always, there's a children's parade. Among the events will be competitions, including those to find the best undiscovered musical talent among performers from all over the world. There'll also be performances by established performers and the premiere of an operetta featuring some of Croatia's leading opera singers. And of course, there'll be a wealth of food and wine tasting opportunities, workshops and events featuring carnival groups from the Dubrovnik region and beyond. For a programme of events and more information, please see http://www.karnevalfest.hr/. What's on around Dubrovnik? Cavtat Carnival Days take place 05.02-08.03 in the House of Culture (Dom kulture) in this picture-perfect little town. There will be four main events which are sure to entertain you. The first costumed event is on Saturday 05.02 in the evening. On Thursday 03.03 there is the so-called “Maškarata od Ferata”, which roughly translated means something to do with masquerades and being wild. Sounds promising! Kids steal the show on 06.03: first there's their carnival parade along the waterfront followed by a party with free doughnuts. No grown ups allowed! The closing party takes place on 08.03 when there's a mass of entertainment laid on, including a tombola. For something different, you might like to hop on over to the island of Korčula. In the town of Blato, a traditional set of dances called the munde are held, at which the gentlemen must request the indulgence of their fair partners in the old-fashioned manner. You'll witness a host of other quaint customs and have the chance to taste your share of the island goodies which are also laid on. The munde are held in Konoba Zlinje every Thursday, Saturday and Sunday between 06.01 and 08.03. You are also welcome to join in the following events: a Masked Ball in Disco Club Twister on 15.01, a Fancy Dress Sack Race on 16.01, a Children's Masquerade Ball in the House of Culture (Dom kulture) on 05.03 at 16:00, and the Great Masquerade Ball also at the House of Culture on 05.03 at 20:00. Carnival time reaches its festive climax on Shrove Tuesday, 08.03, with the Great Carnival (Poklad) Parade through Blato. Heading east? The biggest Carnival event in eastern Croatia is called the Đakovački bušari. As the name sug gests, it is held in the town of Đakovo, most famous for i ts magni ficent red brick cathedral and for its folklore festival. This event was first held in 1994 after a long gap – it renews t ra di ti onal fe s ti vi ti e s which were abandoned for many years. Th ere are two main happenings. On Saturday 12.02 the Win ter Gas tro Fes t is held – an unforgettable chance to sample some of those luscious Slavonian delicacies. The main event takes place on Sunday 13.02, starting at 15:00 - a big fancy dress parade through the streets of this delightful little city. This parade attracts groups from all over the country and from neighbouring Hungary, hoping to steal the show with their themed costumes.

February - March 2011

WHeRe TO STaY Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 35 30, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. Pets up to 5kg free of charge. Q306 rooms (29 suites €370 1500, 254 Deluxe Rooms €270, 23 Club Rooms €295). PTHAR6UFLGBKDC hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 21 00, westinres.zagreb@ westin.com, www.westin.com/zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service from this first-class hotel. Recently refurbished majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. Q378 rooms (297 doubles €235 - 270, 23 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Offices €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 38 Deluxe room twin €270). POTJHAR6UIFLGBKDC hhhhh

Upmarket Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469

60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www. arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDS hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airpor t and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €93 - 166, 135 doubles €100 - 180, 7 triples €144 - 200, 4 suites €253 - 480). PHA6UFLGBKDS hhhh

Zagreb In Your Pocket

WHeRe TO STaY As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. (+385-1) 460 91 11, fax (+385-1) 460 93 03, as@hotel-as.hr, www.hotel-as.hr. The Ace caters to a an upper-class clientele and thus styling is rich and classy. The staff works for every one of their fourstars. Just north of town, your surroundings are lush and less noisy as a result. No pets. Q22 rooms (19 singles €120, 19 doubles €134, 2 Junior suite €176, 1 Presidential suite €204, 6 Extra bed €27). PTHAIEBK hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.bestwestern.com. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets join for a flat fee of 30€. Free parking available.Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGK hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q266 rooms (166 singles €134 - 151, 92 doubles €164 - 178, 7 suites €205, 1 Presidental Suite €220). POTJHA6UFLGBK hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is 8 €. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. Q280 rooms (229 doubles €165 - 175, 17 Junior Suite €210, 22 Deluxe Suite €265, 12 Family Suite €210). POTHARULBK hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 11, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €123 - 167, 149 doubles €143 - 187, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PHAUIFLEGBKDC hhhh Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international. hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (196 singles 900kn, 196 doubles 900kn, 7 Family Rooms 1300kn, 2 Business Suites 1300kn, 1 Superior Suite 1800kn, 1 Presidential Suite 3000kn). POTHAR6ULGK hhhh

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple minutes walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q120 rooms (53 singles €131, 61 doubles €172, 3 suites €317, 3 Junior Suites €231). PTJHAR6LGBKS hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info. Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDS hhhhh

Mid-range Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www. hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. No pets. Q76 rooms (38 singles 520 - 650kn, 33 doubles 780 - 900kn, 5 triples 1065kn, 4 Junior Suites 1400kn). POTJHA hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn). THABK hhh Hotel Vila Tina K-1, Bukovačka cesta 213, tel./fax (+385-1) 244 51 38, tel. (+385-1) 244 52 04, info@ hotelvilatina.hr, www.hotelvilatina.hr. A posh modern building in a quiet neighbourhood near the beautiful Maksimir Park. Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfort to turbo level. Take bus N°2 or 3 north up Bukovačka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. No pets. Q25 rooms (8 singles 640kn, 14 doubles 720 - 800kn, 3 triples 800 - 980kn). PALGK hhh

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February - March 2011

WHeRe TO STaY I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22,

fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 144). PTHA6ULEGBK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of centre is one of the best in town. Q26 rooms (8 singles €49, 12 doubles €63 - 77, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €105 - 125). PTJ6ULNGK hhh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, jadran@ hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent location. No pets. Q49 rooms (26 singles €70, 18 doubles €98, 5 triples €121). PTJALGK hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www. hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €67 - 82, 83 doubles €85 - 110, 15 triples €90 - 120, 6 suites €120 - 145). PTJHA6UIFGBKD hhh

Hostels Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d,

tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravnice-youth-hostel.hr@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravniceyouth-hostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. R Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, short stroll from the bus and train stations. It has a couple of ensuite double bedrooms while other rooms have separate male & female communal showers per floor. The green room on the ground floor looks like a living room with TV, there’s free internet in the lobby, but unfortunately there’s no restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for ads and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and books to read, friendly staff at your service. Q 210 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. TJARUGX

Zagreb In Your Pocket

WHeRe TO STaY Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets. Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triples €102, 1 apartments €82). PARILG hhh Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotelstella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Shuttle service to the airport, just a few minutes away, is available by request. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suites €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULG hhh The Movie Hotel A-4, Savska cesta 141, tel. (+385-1) 600 36 00, fax (+385-1) 600 36 01, info@themoviehotel. com, www.themoviehotel.com. Scene 1 - a pub, movie theme. Scene 2, silver screen theme expands with Movie Wine Gallery restaurant. Scene three: the Movie Hotel (subplot: there’s also the Movie Resort in Tribunj). There’s a cast of thousands - more than a thousand photos of movie stars with broad, bright smiles hanging just about everywhere, including in themed guestrooms. Spacious apartments, each with a kitchen and Jacuzzi shower, make this a potential family feature (for children, Boćarski dom park is nearby). Cheaper rooms are smaller, without satellite TV. Breakfast included. Q24 rooms (10 singles €55, 11 doubles €72, 3 triples €96). PAGK hhh

Budget

Prices are per person. There’s a cafeteria with internet, a restaurant, and a meeting room for up to 20 people. 10% discount with ISIC card. Q 261 dorm beds, 20 - 28€ per person. HALK Sliško K-3, Supilova 13, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, 619 42 22/(+385-1) 619 42 10, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@ slisko.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 rooms (2 singles 392kn, 10 doubles 531kn, 4 triples 659kn, 2 quads 776kn). PTJA6ILVEGBK hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483

95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly English-speaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q22 rooms (6 singles €39, 6 doubles €49, 3 triples €60, 7 apartments €55 - 110). PAFGKC

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel.

(+385-1) 232 02 67/(+385-) 095 860 64 35, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buzzbackpackers.com, www.buzzbackpackers.com. It’s just a 15 minute ride with tram to the train station and the city center. You want more? How’s this for service; free air conditioning, unlimited highspeed internet access, laundry room, car parking infront of hostel and full equipped guest kitchen and lots more. Q 33 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel./fax (+385-1) 611 10 62, hotel-fala@hotel-fala-zg.hr, www.hotel-fala-zg.hr. Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles €48, 9 doubles €69, 2 Family room €90 - 100). PAUG hh Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles 70€, 8 doubles 98€, 2 apartments 127€). PJA6ILGBK hh Omladinski hotel Remetinec H-5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 614 00 42/(+385-1) 654 25 39, fax (+385-1) 614 00 39, hostelremetinec@nazor.hr, www. nazor.hr. Run by a Croatian youth organisation, spacious and clean accommodation on the Novi Zagreb side of the river. A bus gets you to the main train station in 20min. All rooms have toilet and shower and accommodate up to three people.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

bb, Medvednica, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 460 45 60, snjezna.kraljica@sljeme.hr, www.snjeznakraljica.com. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q18 rooms (17 4-bedded apartment €95, 1 8-bedded apartment €164). PTHA6UIFGBKDC hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme. hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom.com; www.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). PTHA6UFEGBKDC hhh

Out of town Gaj G-4, Jezerska 24a, tel. (+385-1) 381 72 22, fax (+385-1) 381 72 25, hotelgaj@hotelgaj.hr, www. hotelgaj.hr. The staff is top-notch and the Scandinavian feel of the place makes for a very comfortable stay. Pets welcome at 5€/day. Q34 rooms (2 singles €62, 26 doubles €84, 1 triples €99, 5 suites €81 - 97). PHA6UFLGKD hhh Paradise Štrokinec 26, tel. (+385-1) 346 49 59, fax (+385-1) 379 45 61, info@hotel-paradise.hr, www.hotelparadise.hr. Located just west of the CBD, this relatively new hotel has all the ticks in the right sections. Comfortable rooms zagreb.inyourpocket.com

suitable for both the individual and families, fair prices and a delightful restaurant with a buffet breakfast that is sure to please. Q12 rooms (1 singles €52, 9 doubles €69, 2 suites €121 - 131). PA6LBK hhh Phoenix outskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel./fax (+385-1) 200 63 33, hotelphoenix@hotelphoenix.com. hr, www.hotelphoenix.com.hr. Your thrill level rises as you walk through this place and are amazed by all that it has to offer. From the classy dining room to the exquisite solarium/ sauna/gym, you will quickly see this place has taken it to the next level. Styling is of the new antique variety and beautiful oil paintings are featured prominently. A great place if you have a car and are looking for a quiet and superb getaway. Pets by prior arrangement. Q55 rooms (1 singles €72 - 86, 44 doubles €99 - 113, 8 triples €126, 2 apartments €115 - 125). PTHAFGBKD hhh Porin K-6, Sarajevska 41, tel. (+385-1) 668 93 00, fax (+385-1) 660 78 91, porin@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Tasteful décor and proximity to the airport and business districts in south Zagreb make up for the lack of glamour - Jakuševac ain’t Las Vegas (but it is quiet). Meeting and banqueting facilities make it a good choice for business bods on a budget. Price includes breakfast (except apartment). No pets. Q195 rooms (192 singles 250kn, 192 doubles 400kn, 3 apartments 800 - 1200kn). HAFLGBKDC hhh

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Eight are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including (and more), kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €85, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Never stop, Nemoj stati J-3, Crvenog križa 31, tel. (+385-1) 487 32 25/(+385-) 091 637 81 11, nest@ nest.hr, www.nest.hr. Staying in Zagreb for longer than a few days? Never Stop (NEST) is a short-term apartment rental agency with a delightfully friendly, service-oriented staff and a range of elegant, city centre apartments with all mod cons (including internet access). The minimum stay is two nights, and prices drop depending on the length of stay. Regular clients can join the NEST club to receive our special offers. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+385-1) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@ novagalerija.com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

www.inyourpocket.com February - March 2011

ReSTauRanTS Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Croatian Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 100kn). PALG Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn). PTAEGB Kerempuh C-2, Kaptol 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 90 00, kerempuh1@zg.t-com.hr, www.kerempuh.hr. A favourite food hangout of Zagreb’s young professionals and those in the know, this place serves traditional Croatian fare. A fantastic view of Dolac in all its pre-3pm hustling and bustling glory. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (25 - 120kn). PAGB Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of i ts star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). PALEGB

ReSTauRanTS Pauza C-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 98, bistro.pauza@email.t-com.hr, www.restaurantpauza.com. The appropriately named Pauza will give the 30-something business crowd a pause from their working day in a simple interior with a pleasant atmosphere. There are daily specials and tasty desserts (we recommend the cheesecake), all the right size for lunch. And if the return trip to the office isn’t particularly pressing, there’s a fairly solid wine list to choose from, as well. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 90kn). PAG Purger E-1, Petrinjska 33, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 13. Snooty fools will laugh in your face when they see the interior and find that you’re serious about steering them to this place. Do not feel embarrassed: their baseless preconceptions are their loss and it means a table will always be free for us! Cheap, local and close to the centre. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 90kn). PAGB Trilogija C-1, Kamenita 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 94/ (+385-) 095 114 45 55, 095 114 45 56, info@trilogija. com, www.trilogija.com. Just next to the holy sanctuary Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), you will find this food haven that is sure to indulge all of your senses in every way. The menu is filled with fusion foods, using typical Croatian ingredients like the almost forgotten fresh cheese Škripavac or barley, and are prepared in a Mediterranean way. To enrich your experience Trilogija offers a wine list of 130 Croatian and imported wines, 30 of which can be served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 120kn). PA Vinodol C-2, Nikola Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 100kn). PAGB

Asian Opium D-4, Branimirova 29 (Branimir shopping centre),

tel. (+385-1) 461 56 79, opiumbar@opiumbar.hr, www. opiumbar.hr. A super restaurant offering cuisine from across South-East Asia, and an adjoining cafe and cocktail bar, in the basement of the Branimir multiplex. It has the arresting décor of a poofter’s boudoir: deep, dark colours and screaming florals - a delightful ambience. Late bar weekends (including Thursdays - an advanced sign of civilisation). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (70 - 110kn). PA

Beer halls

Price range Zagreb is pleasantly moderate in its food pricing. Price Cheap 8 - 35kn

You should expect Pizza, sandwich, fast food, soup, etc. In a thin or traditional atmosphere. Middle 35 - 80kn Salad, mixed grill, noodles and a main in a charming enough setting. High 120 - 650kn Superior service, classic styling, exquisite preparation, wine, etc.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Kaptolska klet C-1, Kaptol 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 48 38/ (+385-1) 481 43 30, kaptolska-klet@kaptolska-klet.hr, www.kaptolskaklet.hr. A warm rustic interior of stucco and massive wood beams makes for the perfect old world atmosphere for devouring old world fare - or perhaps a pint or two. The restaurant cooks up a Zagreb-Zagorje cuisine for reasonable prices. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PAGB Medvedgrad B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 69 22, info@pivnica-medvedgrad.hr, www.pivnica-medvedgrad. hr. Nestled at the back of a building just a short trot from the main square, you wouldn’t guess there’s pleasant outdoor seating at the back. Standard pub fare, including daily lunch specials, washed down with ales from the Medvedgrad microbrewery, including wheat beer and the potent “witches’ brew” Grička vještica. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

International NEW

Apetit City B2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1)

Mlinarica I-1, Jandrićeva 36, tel. (+385-1) 467 36 07.

Taking its cue from the producers of Grizzly Adams, this is a log cabin pretending to be out in the wilds - surviving on their wits and a few suspect berries. Now peace and quiet can be nice, but it’s a thin line between blissful solitude and insanity inducing isolation. Thus, why not instead collect ten or so of your mates and take this place up on their offer of huge tables and benches constructed out of vaguely reshaped fallen giant redwoods etc. Drink heartily, as if you’ve been lost in the wilderness for weeks and when the food arrives you’ll understand why the tables need to be so sturdy. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Restaurant is open 10:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PNGB

Bosnian Sofra K-4, 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, tel. (+385-1)

613 10 26. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there’s still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. (15 - 220kn). PAL

Chinese Asia D-3, Šenoina 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia86@

zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (50 - 130kn). PAG Peking B-2, Ilica 114, tel. (+385-1) 377 63 61. What it may lack in flavour is easily made up for in sheer mass and the fun jade green grass decoration on the interior. East on Ilica, a 10 minute walk from the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (45 - 95kn). PAG

Konoba Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42. An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 85kn). PAG

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

4811077 www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of Bistro Apetit, a time-tested Gornji Grad favorite. Ask the helpfulwithout-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen Tue - Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mondays. (48 - 380kn). A Bistro Apetit B-1, Jurjevska 65a, tel. (+385-1) 467 73 35. The menu is gem-like in its perfection: a small selection of imaginative dishes tailored to the season. The dishes themselves are an essay in flavour, texture and presentation. Headed up by Viennese chef Christian Cabalier, the wine list is also fabulous and the desserts to die for. A place to push the boat out: pricey, but worth it. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (85 - 135kn). PALGB Lobby Food & Mood I-3, Ivana Lučića 2A (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 639 69 50, lobby@lobby.hr, www.lobby.hr. If you’re expecting cracked-leather chairs and a scratched coffee table covered in old magazines, the glass-tube entry across a rock garden might be a bit of a shock. Lobby is actually a café bar and restaurant, with a weekday lunch buffet for those in a hurry. There are dishes like steak with truffle sauce, but also a few offerings for vegetarians and for children. Just a warning - in the café, even though there’s a sandwich menu on each table, on weekends your ham sandwich may come wrapped in cellophane and lack one of its ingredients. Call ahead to park in the garage on site. Otherwise, try your luck with on-street parking or head for the garage at the Hotel International. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. PAG Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 71 11, info@marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. A Mediterranean offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 130kn). PALGB

Italian Boban C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 49, www.boban.hr. Locals flock to it in hordes as do international dudes. The reason? Its location in the centre of the centre and an ambiance of unadulterated fun. Your meal is nothing to write home about, yet somehow satisfying. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (30 - 60kn). PA Il Secondo Avenija Dubrovnik 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 66 09, info@ilsecondo.hr, www.ilsecondo.hr. Exquisite tastes at affordable prices are as inviting for a quiet coffee for two as they are for family meals. This addition to the Boban family Italian restaurants has even included private areas for large parties and small children. Just a few steps from Avenue Mall, don’t miss this elegant home-away-from-home. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGB Stefano C-2, Bogovićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 10. People watching, pasta perfection, sweet treats and fine wine, it’s all here along Zagreb’s busiest pedestrian route. Although the outdoor dining terrace is our favorite, the scents and sounds of Italy wafting through the posh interior make it an inviting spot for top-notch dining. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. (40 - 110kn). PAB

February - March 2011

ReSTauRanTS

Mexican Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619

21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PAEGB

Mt. Medvednica Pilana Bliznec I-1, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 64 55.

On your way to mount Medvednica, surrounded with trees, flowers and a brook is the old saw-mill Bliznec. They really are the masters of their meat!!! The best “lungić u maramici” we’ve ever tried. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 105kn). ALGB

Quick Eats Mimice D-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24.

As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la Dalmatia, which is usually eaten standing up at the ‘bar’ that hugs the restaurant’s walls. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (14 - 33kn). PN Nocturno C-1, Skalinska 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 94, nocturno2a@gmail.com. As fun as they come, it boasts a younger crowd and is a thrilling option for tourists. The outdoors, alleyway seating is great (the free cat performances kick!) and the menu very extensive and easily pleasing. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (25 - 55kn). PAB Žlica i vilica D-3, Kneza Mislava 13, tel. (+385-1) 457 27 70, www.zlicaivilica.hr. Fresh and tasty, lunchtime staples such as stews, soups and local-style meat dishes are complemented by imaginative salads and risottos. With prices between 35 to 60kn, tasteful décor and good service to boot, we ask what more one could wish for? QOpen 07:00 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. AGBS

Seafood NEW

Dubravkin put Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 4975

www.dubravkin-put.com. Nestled in the peacful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 10.00-24.00 (75 - 450kn). AB Gašpar I-2, Nova Ves 4, tel. (+385-1) 466 69 99, restoran.baltazar@zg.t-com.hr, www.restoran-baltazar. com. From the same stable as Baltazar, and with the same high standards and an interior styled like a luxury liner in polished wood. Gašpar specialises in seafood, and the knowledgeable staff will direct you to the best of the day’s catch, cooked with inspiration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 400kn). PAGB Jadera I-4, Zeleni trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 605 52 50, jadera@jadera.hr, www.jadera.hr. A little gem tucked in the green neighbourhood of Vrbik. Jadera’s strong point is the wide choice of ultra-fresh fish and real Dalmatian style cooking. Clean, sweet and unpretentious, we heartily recommend you try - but do book in advance. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 240kn). A Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is

Zagreb In Your Pocket

evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PAG Primošten I-4, Stupnička 14, tel. (+385-1) 619 11 95/(+385-1) 619 85 50, info@restoran-primosten.com, www.restoran-primosten.com. Though at first glance this restaurant may look a little dark and creepy, it’s actually very comfortable. Fillets of white fish in delicious sauces are a good choice, and live lobster and scampi are yours for the murdering. All backed up by a competent wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (50 - 200kn). PAG

Wine Kuća hrvatskih vina (The house of Croatian Wines) Zastavnice 13c, Hrvatski Leskovac, Lučko, tel.

(+385-1) 655 75 55/(+385-) 098 22 44 82, marketing@ kucahrvatskihvina.hr, www.kucahrvatskihvina.hr. To learn more about Croatian wine, you probably couldn’t do much better than take a trip to Kuća hrvatskih vina - the House of Croatian Wines. The display is arranged into four sections presenting wines from the main producing regions of Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Central Croatia. It is situated just outside Zagreb, appropriately enough at the beginning of the Zagreb County Wine Route just to the south of the city. The place to find that perfect gift and stock up your cellar - prices start at just 20kn, though of course, the sky’s the limit. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. Vinski Vrh Gornjaki 56, Hraščina, www.libertin.hr, (+385) 099 703 1797, (+385) 099 7031 797. Just outside of Zlatar in the Zagorje Međimurje region, this vineyard’s Cottage and Restaurant promises the fun and delight that only winemakers can bring. This exceptional location became a Wine Summit under the Romans and continues today under vintners who celebrate the intricacies of cultivating natural wines with a “whimsical fairtale” tour and tasting atmosphere. Wines are accompanied not only with local delecacies but also by live blues music. Reservations required. Highly recommended. QOpen Wed - Sun 12:00 20:00. Tours Fri 18:00 (150kn).

Gastro Events 25.02 Friday – 26.02 Saturday

Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.zagrebwinegourmet.com. This two day gala event will gather up to 500 different Croatian and foreign wines. Furthermore, a drop of wine can’t go without a nibble: the culinary programme will dazzle guests as renowned chefs from Brazil, Italy, France, Austria, Sweden and Slovenia cook up a treat with their respective specialities for your devouring pleasure.

28.02 Monday – 13.03 Sunday

Restaurant week

www.tjedanrestorana.com. Restaurant week is an exceptional opportunity to try the great selection of eateries our city has to offer. Close to 40 Croatian and international restaurants will open their doors to the public with exquisite three course menus at 100 kuna per person. This great deal will vary from restaurant to restaurant as some will offer these specials for two weeks, so it is necessary to make a reservation, starting 21.02. The full list of participating restaurants is available at www.tjedanrestorana.com.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

CAFéS Aquariusnet caffe D-3, Kralja Držislava 4, tel. (+385-1) 461 29 19. If you are on the way to an exhibition at the Croatian Society of Fine Arts, (also known as ‘Džamija’) and you’re craving that coffee break, then Aquariusnet is distinctly relaxing and somewhat cool. It is also a great place to shoot some pool. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 75. This street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any better. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GB Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 527 99 90, nik@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PG Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www. flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kolding C-2, Berislavićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 487 24 88/ (+385-1) 485 20 48, kolding@zg.t-com.hr, www.kolding. hr. One of the best cups of coffee in Zagreb. The muraled walls will trick you into believing you are in Tokyo if you’re not careful. This recently renovated outdoors-indoors glass box of a café is the perfect place to hole up on a winter’s day, waiting for the café terraces to reopen in spring. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being over the top. Don’t be zagreb.inyourpocket.com

surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout. Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Pušlek - Cvjetni trg C-2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 08 76. Opposite Bulldog, there is a different kind of café which offers an entirely different experience. A socialist interior attracts plenty of visitors, especially intellectuals and students. In case you’re lucky to get a window seat, you can enjoy the slapdash of Zagreb street life. And please, make sure you have some change in case you need to visit the toilet to make “baka” happy! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 9959, www.retrocaffe.hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. QOpen 08.00-24.00, Sun 16.0024.00. BPA Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artist-stroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshlysqueezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Vimpi C-2, Miškecov prolaz 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 30. Not wimpy at all. You’ll be thrilled with the music selection of classic rock and roll and blues, and then the dark wooden interior that most nearly suggests western saloon (a stretch, we admit). This is a great place to hang out after work and take in a pleasant conversation with friends. Just behind Cinema Europa so it’s great just before or after a movie. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PB Zrin C-2/3, Berislavićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 38. Zrin is a classy and quiet underground locale to share a drink and conversation in. The art is antique in nature, and the colour scheme is a soft brown and cream combination, making for a very relaxed feeling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B

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Alternative AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva, info@pierottijeva11.

org, http://pierottijeva11.org/. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. There’s not much to it: two chambers of bare concrete walls, a scattering of chairs and sofas, and a makeshift bar. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 02:00. P Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@ kset.org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. E Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00/02:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00/04:00, Sat 12.00 - 02:00/04:00. Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. QOpen 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PEB

Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB Soba H-3, Magazinska 7, tel. (+385-) 095 910 89 10, www.udruga-soba.hr. In a city full of eccentric music bars, Soba (‘The Room”) fits in rather nicely. It’s in an eccentric location for a start, occupying a gloomy-looking split-level apartment grafted onto the roof of a garage. Inside, the odd mixture of timber beams, bamboo matting and mix-and-match furniture is a prime example of what happens when the interior designer loses interest somewhere between the second and third bottle of Pelinkovac. Soba is particularly busy on Fridays and Saturdays when local bands play live. It’s also one of the few bars in Zagreb which is right next door to a railway line, so if you’re not particularly interested in the booze or the music you can at least use the large window at the back to do a bit of trainspotting. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 20:00 - 02:00, Sat 20:00 -02:00. Closed Sun.

Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 26 12. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of the attractive mid 20-30’s crowd, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you -the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it? Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PALG

Billiards Balabushka J-3, Šubićeva 55, tel. (+385-) 091

508 43 98/(+385-1) 464 11 66. Cool pool room near “Kvatrić” named after the famous Russian cuemaker, with seven pool tables, two snooker tables and one for carambole. In true Slavic style, you can also sit down for a game of chess, as well as cards and darts - a treasury of games indeed! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Ground Zero I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 10, tel. (+385-1) 652 84 52, info@gzeroclub.com, www. gzeroclub.com. Fancy a game of pool? Then head towards Novi Zagreb, opposite the Zagreb Fair. Ground Zero has 12 tables; there is a billiard school for children and adults as well as organized tournaments. To spark up the atmosphere, live pop and rock bands as well as DJs perform frequently in the evenings. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. MB D-3, Draškovićeva 49. A handy little billiard club in the city centre, right by the Branimir Centre. Three tables plus a bar to refresh the punters happily misspending their youth. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. 40kn/h. Mosconi K-3, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 70 05, info@mosconi.hr, www.mosconi.hr. Fear not if you find yourself in the middle of an industrial zone, for lo and behold you’re on the right track. This pool club has twelve top quality tables including snooker, and a good atmosphere to top it off! Not too many kids and friendly staff. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 40kn/h. Ponti B-2, Masarykova 3/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58 54. A lively little city centre bar with pool tables, darts and arcade games. Pool players can take their pick of seven tables, three of which are paid by the hour, and the other four are run by cashed in coins valued at 5kn per game. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. 40kn/h. PN

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 24:00. PEB

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Bars Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20

70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. B Crazy Horse E-3, Šubićeva 55/I, ludi.konj@zg.t-com. hr. Sometimes the best bars are in out of the way spots that require a little searching. Crazy Horse fits into that category. Housed on a street that looks more likely to have industrial workshops than bars, a trip through the gate and up the stairs reveals an excellent space full of gleaming wood and comfy, sofa-style seating at the tables. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. PGB Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PA Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52, tel. (+385-) 098 67 23 38, www.funkclub.hr. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. And if that’s not enough, muscle your way to the far side to see the city’s newest gallery space. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

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Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin. Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Gjuro I-2, Medveščak 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 3367 www. g juro2.hr. At the Grškovićeva tram stop, follow the grattifi bike-riding skeleton to uncover this fab locale to dance, chat or start an electro-tastic all-nighter. Their Rakjia bar makes getting-to-know the local liquors a one-stop affair while two full-service bars, generous dance floor, sprawling lounge and private party space make for plenty of fun with friends and friends-to-be. QOpen 21.00-02.00. PBA Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B February - March 2011

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Local beers Croatia is blessed with some pretty decent locally brewed beers. The brew you’ll come across depends to an extent on which part of the country you are in, which is the local brewery and therefore the favoured local tipple. However, you’ll find the leading Croatian brands Ožujsko and Karlovačko more or less everywhere. How to order beer: ask for either a small or a large beer, or to be on the safe side, by the decilitre (“deci” for short). In Zagreb a small beer is 33 dl, a large beer is 50 dl (half a litre). However, on the coast, where beer warms up faster, your request for a small beer may result in a miniscule 25 dl, while 33 dl is considered “large”. This is the range of beers you’ll find in the average cafe or bar in the Zagreb area: Ožujsko a light lager beer, slightly bitter and, as with most Croatian beers of this type, a not inconsiderable 5.2% alcohol. Probably the most widespread beer in Zagreb since it’s brewed locally. Ožujsko Cool is the alcohol-free version. Karlovačko another lager, probably no. 2 in Zagreb by sales and brewed in the neighbouring city of Karlovac. The alcohol-free version is Rally. Pan a relative newcomer which hit the market in 1997, made in Koprivnica, northeast of Zagreb. Also available in a non-alcoholic version. Tomislav a rich dark beer also made in the Zagreb Brewery, almost approaching a stout in character. 7.3% alcohol, it kicks like a donkey. Velebitsko a favourite beer of younger generations, available in light, dark and mixed (rezano) versions. Said to be particularly fine in flavour as it’s brewed using Velebit mountain spring water according to German purity laws. Not always easy to find in Zagreb but worth seeking out. Medvedgrad a small Zagreb brewery purveying its ales through five of its own branded pubs. Choose between light and dark versions, mixed, extra strong and wheat beer (pšenično pivo). Zlatni medo a microbrewery and pub on the corner of Savska and Vukovarska, offering light, dark and mixed beer.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

nIgHTlIFe Hard Place J-3, Šubićeva 55/1, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00 Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. G Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a hightlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere. QOpen , Tue 22:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. L No. 1 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 89. Small and very colourful, it boasts a crowd of regulars that are of average size and very colourful. Music pumps and grins widen as the evening wears on. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. NEW

Pepermint B2, Ilica 24, tel. (+385-1) 2359 172 www.

pepermint.hr. What do you get when you give a clubhousestyle space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-bynight whose groovy decor spans two-storeys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. P Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, info@sirupclub.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop, soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 21:00 -04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098

32 28 04/(+385-) 098 929 92 98, www.bacchusjazzbar. net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. GB Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

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Casino Casino City B/C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (The Regent

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 450 10 00, zlatko@casino-city.t-com.hr. Centrally located in the beautifully refurbished Hotel The Regent Esplanade, a comfortable club casino with five roulette tables, five card tables, slot machines and a VIP area for those more discreet gambling moments. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PA Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, Casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette,

black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Enjoy a meal in the sunny restaurant that works from 10:00-02:00. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www. goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel.

(+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 466 71 40, ivana@khala.hr, www.khala.hr. Part lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, so you can partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PAGB People’s J-3, Hektorovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 76, admiral.adriatic@zg.t-com.hr, www.peoples.hr. A night out at this slick lounge and restaurant can move in several distinct stages. First, a selection from the quality menu offering Italian, Mediterannean and Asian Fusion. Then, a move to the lounge for a selection from the immense champagne and wine list. Then, as the night progresses, a move to the huge bar in the center of the room as the place transforms into a happening night bar. All in all, a cool place to hang out in Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAK

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-99) 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28/(+385-1) 481 17 31. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. N

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Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. (+385-1) 236 04 93, dublinpub2003@gmail.com, www.dublinpub.hr. The ‘Irish Pub’. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem. Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep brown leather sofas comfort your weary bones, and service is prompt and courteous. The menu is a little more Croatian than one might expect - not a bad thing at all. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENG Godot A-4, Savska 23, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 77. When you start begging the waiter for some bangers and mash (like mommy used to make) you’ll know this pub attempt has succeeded. It’s near to the student centre, thus the crowd tends to be on the young and hip side. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery next door, Mezzo & Mezzo, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 06, sasa9@net.hr. If you’re not wearing your hottest gear don’t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides a stonkingly popular and rather large “pub” - all dark wood and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PGB February - March 2011

WHaT TO See

Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheatsheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic. Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj

bb. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Home to the city zoo! www.zgzoo.com. Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20-30kn. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery

Zagreb In Your Pocket

of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 8kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg

svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on 22.10 and 07.11 at 12:15.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb.

This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Curiosities Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12,

javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest furnicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

The Black Eagle Pharmacy (Gradska ljekarna K crnom orlu) C-1, Kamenita bb. The oldest pharmacy in

Zagreb, it’s a protected cultural landmark. In the 17th and 18th centuries this pharmacy was the local hangout much like a bar or café today. The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C3/4. A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the centre map you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shaped that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre, Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau building, The State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica.hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for peek at stardust. For organized touristic tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bariin Egypt in 1848-49: which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan zagreb.inyourpocket.com

and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than what her personal talents. After her owner face death it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Zagreb’s Solar System . The solar system in space? Pah!

We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Complete listing at zagreb.inyourpocket.com February - March 2011

WHaT TO See

Museums

Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings or so and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon & holidays.

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 140,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Ljubo Babić, Janica, 1938., Modern Gallery

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hrskolskimuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 16, www.drazenpetrović.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@ etnografski-muzej.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu.

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 -10kn. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@zg.t-com.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Memories of a ban - The Jelačić Legacy in the Croatian History Museum

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, muzej-gradazagreba@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

European Stork Village The first storks of spring traditionally arrive around St Joseph’s Day (March 19), bringing loads of babies and stuff. If you’d like to witness this phenomenon, you’re in luck - you have a European Stork Village right on your doorstep. Čigoč is in an area of protected wetlands just southeast of Zagreb called Lonjsko Polje, and it’s a cute little place full of wooden folk architecture to boot. Here’s what you’ll find there... When travelling down the main highway from Zagreb towards Slavonski Brod, should you feel the need to go flying off the road on a sharp bend then we suggest you do this around Kutina and head for the right. You’ll have a lovely soft landing, although you may get a little damp, as you’ll be landing in a swamp - Lonsko polje. The 506km2 of meadows and forests are grazed alternatively by cattle and by fish, depending on whether the area is flooded or not - and in spring it will be. The area contains three marshes and navigable canals. The area has a rich variety of birds and provides sightings of herons and cormorants amongst others. The main attraction in this sense is the ‘stork village’ of Čigoč. The ‘New Zealand of the stork world’ so to speak, the village is home to 200 stork families who have built 45 nests atop the 74 houses which house 120 human inhabitants. Happily enough for this issue of ZIYP, the best time for nosily intruding upon this colony of birds is between March and August. The information centre is at No 26. Here you can rent telescopes in order to get a better view of mum getting the kids fed and washed in time for dad getting home from a hard day’s er... storking(?). Whilst the storks have many home comforts there are few for you visitors. We advise you not to wear your latest Dolce and Gabanna but something a little more appropriate for sloshing about in swamp land. Also some mosquito spray may be handy. Malaria tablets, machetes and a troupe of elephants for carrying your supplies through the jungle are of course optional extras for the more serious explorer.

February - March 2011

maIl & PHOneS Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www. dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed

Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333, zrinjevac@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They

Zagreb In Your Pocket

geTTIng aROund all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Public transport Buses tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-1) 060

10 00 01, www.zet.hr. Bus tickets cost the same as tram tickets and can be purchased in the same places. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1,5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr. In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr, http:// internetcentar.iskon.hr/. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

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Taxi Taxis should only charge a 19kn flat fee plus 7kn/ km except on holidays, Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385) 970, info@radio-taksizagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

Petrol stations (0 - 24) Ina Dubrava M-1, Dankovečka 2, tel. 291 26 01, Ina Heinzelova K-3, Heinzelova bb, tel. 244 14 34, Ina Jagićeva A-3, Jagićeva bb, tel. 377 44 23, Ina Langov trg D-2, Langov trg 13, tel.482 85 91, Ina Špansko F-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. 389 85 99, Ina Miramarska C-4, Miramarska bb, tel. 611 01 25, Europa Mil H-3, Zagorska 10, tel. 364 35 46, Ina Stupnik East H-5, Jadranska

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz. hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 24hrs), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

Car rental Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-) 062 22 22 26/

(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@avis.com.hr, www. avis.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Budget J-4, Pile I 1, tel. (+385-1) 455 49 43/(+385-1) 455 49 36, zgd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33/ (+385-1) 483 64 66, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa. hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. A

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avenija bb, tel. 655 73 30

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February - March 2011

geTTIng aROund

geTTIng aROund Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67

77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Rent A Smart A-2, Ivana Kukuljevića 32, tel. (+385-1) 487 61 72, www.rentasmart.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, rezervacije@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. A

www.inyourpocket.com Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3).

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 12kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 1 hour, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 HAK - 1987 J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 44, tel. (+385-1) 661 19 99, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Call tel. 464 08 00 if you’re broken down on the road. Zagreb In Your Pocket

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi, the trip from town is approx 200-250kn or the cheaper option is with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www. plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel.

(+385-1) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 616 02 15, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, zag@czechairlines.com, www.csa.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lufthansa Pleso Airport, tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Turkish Airlines D-2, Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1) 492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

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February - March 2011

SHOPPIng Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen 09:00 – 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 659 10 50, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 -

22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Cascade C-1, Tkalčićeva 88, tel. (+385-1) 640 05 90, info@cascade.hr, www.cascade.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, www.centarkaptol.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Agram C-2, Miškecov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 78, agram-antikvarijat@zg.t-com.hr, www.agram-antikviteti. hr. Agram will arouse the antique lover in you. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Art galleries Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33

70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

SHOPPIng Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www.

likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Bookshops Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55, www.algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, books, reference, gifts, etc. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 73 25, megastore@profil.hr, www.profil.hr. Three floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games and gifts. Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles include excellent travel books. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 37, knjizarazagreb@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture. Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, tel. 467 08 04. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian design Amarie B-3, Gundulićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 35 24, www.amarie-fashion.com. A young designer whose feminine and modern clothes are a hit among fashion editors. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Boudoir C-1, Radićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 71/ (+385-) 091 481 34 64, www.boudoir.hr. A famous duo of twins whose creations are nostalgic, womanly and full of romance. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Charlie D-2, Vlaška 47, tel. (+385-1) 481 36 87, www. charlie-design.hr. Our friend`s favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials. Friendly staff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Sunday markets Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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February - March 2011

leISuRe

SHOPPIng I-gle C-2, Dežmanov prolaz 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 65

08/(+385-1) 481 32 80, i-gle@i-gle.com, www.i-gle. com. I-GLE’s strong visual image and unique attention to the individual wearer have won the label a cult-like following. Their melodramatic and anything-but-traditional threads have been adorning Zagreb’s fashionistas and socialites for years. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A XD Xenia Design C-2, Petrinjska 31, tel. (+385-1) 492 04 11, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design. hr. Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Robert Sever, 08.12 - 27.02. The Power of the Flower: 85th anniversary of Zagreb’s Herzmansky Salon, Zagreb City Museum

Gifts & Souvenirs Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products? QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25, 384 38 05/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@ bakina-kuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Croata C-2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 26, oktogon@ croata.hr, www.croata.hr. Ties and varied clothing of rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this

Zagreb In Your Pocket

is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea-racki@live.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Lazer Rok Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 30/(+385-1) 492 16 68, llumezi@inet.hr, www. nakit-lumezi.hr. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Mara etno butik B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, mara@etnobutik-mara.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.com. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. Also at C-1, Skalinska 2a. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pantheon B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 07, vinoteka.pantheon@pantheon.hr, www.pantheon.hr. An excellent selection of wines, olive oil, homemade cheese and other fine delicacies to be found in the one place. A perfect short stop for tasting Croatian products. If you seek that true holiday experience, make sure you visit their wine bar. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Slavonica C-1, Kaptol 11, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 29, kaptol@ecoslavonia.com, www.ecoslavonia.com. It’s a meat and salami lover’s paradise! A specialized shop loaded with Slavonian delicacies such as kulen, kulenova seka, homemade Slavonian sausages and čvarci. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A VinAnima B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 43 03, vinanima@vinanima.hr, www.vinanima.hr. Look no further when it comes to a fine drop of wine as this great vino store is jam packed with some of today’s and yester year classics, including port, cognac, sherry, rakija, olive oil and chocolate. Store owner Iva is a top class sommelier who ensures you will get an excellent wine that fits all occasions. QOpen 11:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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Health timeline 1355 The first time historical records mention a pharmacy in Zagreb. 1928 A pharmacy called “Kaštel” moved to Zagreb from Karlovac. In 1945 it was renamed “Pliva” Croatia’s most famous pharmaceutical company, bought by GSK in 2006. 1941 The big Rebro hospital in Zagreb was built. 1957 The first indoor swimming pool in Croatia opened, in Zagreb. Your mother might have told you that you need an apple a day to keep the doctor away. We heartily agree, but there are a few other things you can do to look after your health in the winter. Now that the cold weather is here, it’s a good idea to make sure your intake of vitamins is enough to keep colds at bay. The good news is that the diet that naturally evolves in various parts of the world generally provides the nutrients we need at a given time of year. Among the most popular kinds of foods in Croatia in winter are sarma (made with soured cabbage) and grah (bean stew). Soured cabbage is an excellent source of Vitamin C, and beans are full of protein and are a great source of B vitamins. Green vegetables are always useful in keeping up your levels of all kinds of vital nutrients, but it’s a good idea to eat an array of fruit and vegetables of various colours to get a full spectrum of vitamins. You can get your daily dose by cooking up rich soups and lightly steaming vegetables. Try grating spicy celeriac or horseradish and adding it to salads, soups or mashed potatoes. However tempting the prospect of staying at home in front of the television is when the weather is grim, you’ll find your energy levels stay up and you’ll succumb to colds less if you get regular exercise, so this is a good time to join that sports club or fitness class. A combination of aerobic and weight-bearing exercise helps keep up your bone density and prevents the onset of health problems related to excess weight. As a treat after all that effort, why not relax in a sauna? Studies suggest that taking a sauna, followed by immersion or showering in cold water can ward off colds, reduce stress, ease joint pain and help the body rid itself of toxins. If you have any pre-existing health problems, it’s always best to check with your doctor first. In Croatia there is quite a strong emphasis on preventive medicine. Many people opt for regular health checks such as blood tests for cholesterol, iron and blood sugar levels, blood pressure tests and gynaecological examinations. Because of the relatively low price and rather high quality of Croatian healthcare, health tourism is quite popular here, especially for dentistry and cosmetic surgery. As with any medical treatment, it is always recommended to check the doctors’ qualifications and experience first.

CityBowling Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra (Westgate shopping centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 11 00, citybowling@citybowling.hr, www.citybowling.hr. Westgate shopping centre is where you’ll find this bowling haven. Lane prices range from 70 - 150kn depending on the time of day throughout the week. Fridays and Saturdays prices are 130 - 150kn. Shoes are hired and in addition pool tables can be played at 40kn per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun

14:00 - 24:00. A Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50, info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Iločka 30, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@zdravevibracije.hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić Ozaljska 128, tel. (+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun by request. A Implant Centre Martinko Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko.com, www. implant-centar-martinko.com. QOpen Mon, Fri 09:00 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Bowling Bowling 300 Zagreb Savska opatovina 36, tel. (+385-1) 387 90 70, info@bowling.hr, www.bowling. hr. Newly opened and boasts state of the art facilities. It’s located near the City Centre One shopping centre. The prices per lane vary from 75kn to 150kn according to the time of the day and day of the week. Children, students and those over 60 get discounts. Bowling shoes are hired and food and drinks are also available. It is possible to book online and there are pool tables at a rate of 42kn per hour. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2011

leISuRe

Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+385-1) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr. Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18, 091 386 25 25, www.zagrebdental.com, k.doblano@ inet.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ice Skating Dom sportova H-3, Trg Krešimira Čosića 11, tel.

(+385-1) 365 03 51. If there are no sporting or other events being held, the ice rink is open Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00-21:00 and Sat, Sun 10:30-12, 17:30-19, 10-21:30. QAdmission 15 kn. Skates 15kn. ŠRC Šalata D-1, Schlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55/(+385-1) 461 68 47, src.salata@zg.htnet. hr, www.salata.hr. QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30, 20:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15 - 20kn. Skates 15 - 20kn. Zagrebački velesajam I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik, Pavilion 40, tel. (+385-1) 655 43 57, www.zv.hr. Every week there’s different timetable when the ice is open for the public so it’s best to check by phone first. QAdmission 15kn. Skates 15kn.

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this. Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 73 17 203, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. QOpen 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

lIFeSTYle dIReCTORY

Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Pilates Body & Mind Studio Pilates H-3, Ul.grada Mainza 24, tel. (+385-1) 349 04 33/(+385-) 091 541 39 09, studio@bm-pilates.com, www.bm-pilates.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Spa & Beauty Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom. com. Swimming pool, sauna, g ym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and bod y treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A Slimming Club J-3, Martićeva 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 465 08 57, marticeva@slimming-club.hr, www.slimmingclub.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Sveti Martin Spa & Golf Resort Grkaveščak b.b., Sveti Martin na Muri, tel. (+385-40) 31 50 02, info@ spa-golf.com.hr, www.toplicesvetimartin.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Terme Tuhelj Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuhelj, tel. (+385-49) 20 37 14, info@terme-tuhelj.hr, www.terme-tuhelj.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Top Terme Topusko Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 16, Topusko, tel. (+385-44) 88 60 06, info@topterme.hr, http://topterme.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Virtus Wellness Club I-3, Florijana Andrašeca 18, tel. (+385-1) 309 48 82, info@virtus-wellness.hr, www. virtus-wellness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel.

(+385-1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Making friends International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2

(Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@zg.tcom.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Every month in Hotel Sheraton and have all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed.

Veterinary clinics Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Amruševa 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16,

berlitz@berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Numerous languages are taught with a communicative, well balanced modern approach. A universally recognized method that engages students at all levels. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Pharmacy 0-24 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3 (C-2) tel. 481 61 98, Ilica 301 (A-2) tel. 375 03 21, Ozaljska 1 (H-3) tel. 309 75 86, Avenija V. Holjevca 22, Siget (I-5) tel. 652 54 25, Grižanska 4, Dubrava (L-2) tel. 299 23 50

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 93 94 9155

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2011

BuSIneSS dIReCTORY Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1)

248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovi-

ćeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Tax Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 40% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

BuSIneSS dIReCTORY

T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UBLI savjetovanje D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

36, info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel.639 52 95.

Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Lawyers

Brokerage houses

Real estate

Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00, auctor@auctor.hr, www.auctor.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 77 50, hita@hita.hr, www.hita.hr. QOpen 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 58 94, brokeri@intercapital.hr, www.intercapital.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. PBZ D-3, Kralja Držislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 489 13 31, brokeri@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. (+385-1) 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija. hr, www.prva-generacija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in the Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Paulina Jazvić

Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, jet-set@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17

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Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel.

Gosta Thames, Ericofon, 1953, Sweden

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

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(+385-1) 482 61 14, kingsturge@kingsturge.hr, www. kingsturge.hr. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

February - March 2011

Street register 29. X. 1918. Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića Franje Račkog

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2 D-2

Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3

Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak Paromlinska Patačićkina Pavla Hatza

E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1 C-4 D-2 D-3

Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

Take a day trip to Medvednica mountain

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Index AKC Medika 34 Apartment house Snježna kraljica 25 Aquarius & Aquarius A2 35 Aquariusnet caffe 33 Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) 40 Arcotel Allegra 22 Aristos 22 Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) 40 As 22 Asia 27 Bacchus 36 Balabushka 34 Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) 38 Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria 22 Bikers Beer Factory 37 Bistro Apetit 27 Boban 27 Boogaloo 35 Booksa 33 Bulldog XL 35 Burin 27 Apetit City 27 Buzz Backpackers Club 24 Casino City 37 Casino Fortuna 37 Central 23 Cica 33 Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) 40 Crazy Horse 35 Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) 40 Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej) 40 Čvenk 33 Didov san 26 Dobar zvuk 37 Dolac (Dolac Market) 38 Dora 23 Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović) 40 Dublin Pub 37 Dubravkin put 28 Dubrovnik 22 Eli’s 33

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) 40 Evistas 25 Fala 24 Flores 33 Fly!bar 35 Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb 22 Funicular 39 Funk 35 Gaj 25 Gašpar 28 Gjuro 35 Godot 37 Golden Sun Casino 37 Ground Zero 34 Hard Place 36 Hemingway lounge bar 37 Hop Devil 37 Hotel Antunović 22 Hotel International Zagreb 22 Hotel Vila Tina 23 I 24 Il Secondo 27 Ilica 24 Institut Parfumeur Flores 33 InZagreb 25 Ivica i Marica 26 Jabuka 34 Jadera 28 Jadran 24 Jaegerhorn 24 K&K 33 Kaptolska klet 26 Kerempuh 26 Khala 37 Kolding 33 Korčula 28 Kota 33 Kset 34 Kuća hrvatskih vina (The house of Croatian Wines) 28 Laguna 24 Lemon 36 Limb 35 Lobby Food & Mood 27 Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) 38 Maraschino 35 Marcellino 27 Masters 36

MB 34 Medvedgrad 26 Meridijan 16 24 Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) 40 Mex Cantina 28 Mimice 28 Mirogoj Cemetery 38 MK (Krolo) 33 Mlinarica 27 Močvara 34 Mosconi 34 Never stop, Nemoj stati 25 Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) 38 No. 1 36 Pepermint 36 Nocturno 28 Nova galerija 25 Okrugljak 26 Oliver Twist 37 Omladinski hotel Remetinec 24 Opium 26 Palace 23 Paradise 25 Pauza 26 Peking 27 People’s 37 Phoenix 25 Pif 33 Pilana Bliznec 28 Ponti 34 Porin 25 Primošten 28 Purger 26 Purgeraj 34 Pušlek - Cvjetni trg 33 Ravnice Youth Hostel 24 Retro Café Bar 33 Route 66 34 Sax! 36 Sedmica 35 Sheraton Zagreb Hotel 22 Sirup 36 Sliško 25 Soba 34 Sofra 27 Spunk 35 St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) 38

Stefano 27 Stella 24 Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) 38 Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) 41 The Black Eagle Pharmacy (Gradska ljekarna K crnom orlu) 39 The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) 38 The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) 41 The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) 41 The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) 41 The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) 39 The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) 41 The Movie Hotel 24 The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) 39 The Regent Esplanade Zagreb 23 The Westin Zagreb 22 Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) 38 Tomislavov dom 25 Trilogija 26 Tvornica 36 Typhlology Museum (Tiflološki muzej) 41 Velvet 33 Vertigo 35 Vimpi 33 Vinodol 26 Vinski Vrh 28 Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) 41 Zagreb Mummy 39 Zagreb Youth Hostel 24 Zagreb 25 Zagreb’s Solar System 39 Žlica i vilica 28 Zrin 33

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