Zagreb In Your Pocket No68 by In Your Pocket City Guides

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ZAGREB October-November O t b N b 2012

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years

Awesome Autumn

The festival season of wine to simply divine

Maksimir Park

Stroll this green oasis, an escape into the lungs of the city, relaxation and recreation…

Culture Corner

Autumn leaves to cover you with cultural events, film festivals, concerts, jazz events…

N°68 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr

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CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Cinema Tour

Kino conversation

Where to stay

If you’re out for a good laugh then head on down to the Kerempuh Theatre with Gospođa Ministarka (Mrs. Minister) by Branislav Nušić and directed by Oliver Frljić. This autumn hit will have you in stitches.

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Feast of Wine Cafes Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

30 31 32

What to see

All those things you mustn’t miss

Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure

Bike or Skate

Get in action

Workshops, courses etc..

Directory

Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

Maps & Index A sneak-peak at the Pumpkin Festival where you’ll have your taste buds crossing borders and wondering how does this go with that. Tempting variations include side dishes from sweet to salty, pumpkin oil, pumpkin cakes…. Combinations you would never imagine. Check out on page 26!

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Street index City map City centre map Transport map Country map

54 55 56 58 59 October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:11:46

FOREWORD Autumn beckons dear readers as the sun has finally begun to set earlier whilst the moon takes its place in the night sky. Such changes in weather makes those long nights an irresistible reason to stay in, but we have so much to say and so many things for you to do that you’ll find yourself socializing and mingling without haste. The feast of St Martin gives you every reason to sip some fine local wine just to get you warm. Festivals in music and film, can cater for just about any readers needs. A special mention must go out to jazz enthusiasts as the next few months offer a smorgasbord of cool, groovy live events. So as you venture out, discover some of the hidden treasures that are taking place in the heart of town.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o. Published 6 times per year

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It was 20 years ago this year that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Marko Sirovina Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Marijana Žvan, Šestinski suncobran

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD is your irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb, valid for 72 hours, or 24 hours, and opens many doors to the city of Zagreb major sights and its surroundings! Your ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. fivestars.hr or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres. We hope that ZAGREB CARD will make your stay in Zagreb more interesting and pleasant!.

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD I www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

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complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.ž

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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ARRIVING IN ZAGREB BASICS Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

10 50

-10 -20

F M A M J

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 15kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 12kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 10,73kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,99kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8,85 €1,99 €2,37 €0,95 €0,68 €2,99 €1,59 €1,37 €4,14 €1,37 €1,45 €1,35 €0,41 €1,37

Exchange rates (as of 02. 10 2012): US$1 = 5,6kn €1 =7,3kn £1 = 9,1kn

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transform er to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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HISTORY

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

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Valentina Bunić, Odmor 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

New Circus Festival, Kalle Hakkarainen Nopeussokeus

Rock & Pop Concerts

25.11 Sunday

27.10 Saturday

Macy Gray

The Aristocrats

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. What a diva! What a singer! To think that Macy Grey first hesitated in becoming a singer because of her raspy voice and it is that same voice that has given her stardom. Grey is best known for her hits ‘I try’, ‘Sweet Baby’ and ‘Still’. Her R&B and soulful tunes makes for a cool swagger of a show. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 180 - 250kn.

C-2, Vip Club, Trg bana Jelačića 9, vip-club.hr. All it took was one rehearsal, one concert and this tumultuous trio is now taking the rock scene by storm. Heavily influenced in the progressive/hard rock genre, these lads are all about the music. Their instrumental marathons will exploit your ears at the closing night of the Zagreb Guitar Show. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 90 - 140kn.

27.11 Tuesday

09.11 Friday

Calexico

Steve Vai

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. A cocktail of influences bring to life Calexico who thrive on country/jazz/mariachi/conjunto sounds with a bit of post rock. So with no limit in genre, Joey Burns and John Concertino lead the six -piece band producing palatable music that takes the audience from Southern USA, to New Orleans and Latin America in between! Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 150 - 180kn.

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. After seven years the virtuoso on guitar Steve Vai returns to Zagreb in promotion of his new LP ‘The Story of Light’. His instrumentals fluctuate with ripping riffs to melodic compositions that take you on a majestic musical journey. It is no wonder he was part of the G3 Concert Tour and has sold over a whopping 15 million albums. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 200 - 220kn.

01.12 Saturday

Pozitivan koncert H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sportova 11. See pure Croatian rock in all its genres with Hladno Pivo, Let3, Brkovi, One Piece Puzzle and other bands. This is the 8th edition of the largest Croatian indoor rock music event that also marks World AIDS Day. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 40 - 70kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Lost the beat? zagreb.inyourpocket.com Punčke, Big Rock Explosion #5

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Classical Music Concerts 03.11 Saturday

Nigel Kennedy I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Kennedy unveils his new work ‘The Four Elements’, his very own acknowledgement to Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and of course he brings with him his finely tuned top notch band. One can expect interludes of lightning tempo changes to lightness of touch as he plays the violin as only a genius can. Q Concert starts at 19:30.

13.11 Tuesday

The Zagreb Quartet B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, www. hgz.hr. Formed in 1919, they are Croatia’s oldest chamber orchestra and have performed at famous world concert halls such as the Sydney Opera House and New York UN Concert Hall. Their contribution to Croatian music art has been highly recognised and they continue to play a rich repertoire of classical music. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50kn.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 02.10 Tuesday - 30.10 Tuesday

Ludwig Minkus - Don Quixote B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 12, www.hnk.hr. To think that this ballet first premiered in Moscow, 1869. Nowadays, most modern productions of Don Quixote are derived from Alexander Gorsky’s version depicting the tale of a valiant knight and his sword-bearer. Q Performances on: 2nd, 6th, 12th, 23rd, 30th October.

19.10 Friday - 09.11 Friday

The Shoemaker from Delft B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. A comic opera by the Croatian composer Blagoje Bersa (1873-1934) which was written in Vienna and for the Viennese people before WWI. It premiered in Zagreb in 1914 and remains one of the most successful Croatian operas. Q Performances on: 19th, 22nd, 25th, 31st October and 3rd, 9th November.

25.10 Thursday - 30.10 Tuesday

Gubec Beg C-1, Komedija, Kaptol 9, www.komedija.hr. Telling the popular story of the 16th century peasant revolt in the Stubica valley near Zagreb, which folk hero Matija Gubec coordinated against villainous landowner Franjo Tahy, this is a colourful and invigorating performance. The premiere was held in 1975 and Gubec Beg had been performed over 200 times before this production was created by Zagreb’s Komedija theatre. Q Performances on: 25th, 26th, 27th, 29th, 30th October.

Denis&Denis, A bonanza of a reunion tour with the original line-up by one of the biggest pop bands from this region, December 7, 2012., Tvornica kulture

27.10 Saturday - 07.11 Wednesday

Gaetano Donizetti - L’elisir d’amore (The Elixir of Love) B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. Gaetano Donizetti’s melodrama returns to the stage and it contains one of the most famous arias in ‘Una furtiva lagrima’ whilst also having one of the first ever duet operas. The composer was inspired by a medieval legend on the elixir of love but he juxtaposes this by adding that love can be found without the mystic potion. Q Performances on: 27th, 29th October and 7th November.

06.11 Tuesday

St. Petersburg Ballet - The Nutcracker

02.11 Friday - 04.11 Sunday

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radica 4. This is a fairytale ballet composed by Tchaikovsky and it is well known that the selection of music has some of the best known tunes in classical music. As in this case and time of year, the ballet has become the most popular play performed around Christmas time. Q Performance starts at 20:00. Tickets 230 - 290kn.

Disney On Ice

18.11 Sunday - 30.11 Friday

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30, www.zagrebarena. hr. The magical world of fairytales comes to Arena Zagreb. This is the biggest family musical and theatrical spectacle on ice. Take part in the latest thrilling show to hit the ice as Mickey Mouse, Rapunzel, Cinderella and other Disney characters take you on a magical musical journey. Q Perormances start: 19:00 Friday, 11:00 and 18:00 Saturday, 11:00 and 15:30 Sunday. Tickets 100 - 360kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Ambroise Thomas - Hamlet

For the Kids

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B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. Marking 200 years since the birth of French composer Ambroise Thomas, his famous adaptation of ‘Hamlet’ comes to Croatia in all its flair and glory. In 2010, it was heard at New York’s Metropolitan Opera with the echoes of Shakespeare’s immortal line, ‘to be or not to be, that is the question’. Q Performances on: 18th, 20th, 22nd, 28th, 30th November.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Gospođa Ministarka (Mrs. Minister) - Kerempuh Theatre

Exhibitions

13.09 Thursday - 04.11 Sunday

01.12 Thursday - 28.10 Sunday

Praise Hand - Lacemaking in Croatia

The Homeland War

B-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. The transfer of this handicraft into rural communities led to the evolution of three distinct lace types in Croatia, a history that distinguishes the country’s rich culture of lacemaking. As a UNESCO intangible heritage, the preservation and revitalization of lacemaking is the aim of summertime celebrations throughout Croatia and will be honored at the museum by exhibitions, presentations and workshops.

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www. hismus.hr. This exhibit marks the 20th anniversary since the war in Croatia. Visitors can get a true insight into the war with army suits, symbols, flags, maps, weapons, photos, testimonies, documentaries, multimedia projections and much more never seen before items. It will have you browsing for hours on end. A chronology of the war is given and it ends by paying homage to those who died for independence.

11.09 Tuesday - 15.10 Monday

Police Back Yard - Željko Kipke C-3, Ar t Pavillion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, w w w. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. The exhibi t comprises earl y experimental film projects, 20 paintings, and 60 prints all of which explore barriers to privacy and expression. Institutions and individuals are all included amongst the landscapes of discussion on repressive societies.

18.09 Tuesday - 17.11 Saturday

The tearing down of NOB monuments in Croatia C-2, Nova Gallery, Teslina 7. NOB refers to the Partisan movement in WWII and their defiance towards German invaders. At the time, many monuments were erected in honor of soldiers, battles and specific historical events. This exhibit reconstructs the story behind such monuments and the devastation of many due to changes in politics.

13.09 Thursday - 15.11 Thursday

An Exhibition of Croatian Design 1112 B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. muo.hr. This exhibition is a biennial review of Croatian design production in all areas ranging from visual communications, production design, exhibition design, electronic media, fashion design and more. The displays are of a high standard with a strict selection process in place; the aim is to promote design as divine to the wider community.

Lost the beat? zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 12

One hundred and fifty years since the birth of the Austrian painter Gustav Klimt will be marked by an exhibition of quality reproductions at the Kristofor Stanković Gallery in Zagreb, in the Old City Hall.

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CULTURE & EVENTS 25.09 Tuesday - 11.11 Sunday

Antun Motika - Experiments & Miljenko Horvat - Searches J-5, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. Motika was a visionary artist, he conducted lumino-kinetic experiments with glass, foil, and film; he would burn glass and plastic and then form pools of liquid adding paint and other matter. Motika recorded his results with an obsession and this exhibit is a tribute to his work. Having left Croatia in the 60’s with a solid reputation, Horvat moved to Paris and later Canada to pursue his calling. Now, we get to see his entire opus with poetic collages, abstract expressionistic paintings, a rich body of photography and more.

28.09 Friday - 25.11 Sunday

Stjepan Divković - Retrospective, Medals and Money C-2, Archeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr. Coin and medal collectors can pay tribute to one of our fruitful medal makers. Divković is a guru in his field, priming his artistic focus in the classical and traditional style; see over 300 of his works from moulds in bronze to special editions, sketches, and a small choice of his small plastic works.

29.09 Saturday - 19.10 Friday

Media-Scape 2012 - Tactical Topics E-3, Croatian Association of Fine Artists (HDLU), Trg žrtava fašizma bb, www.hdlu.hr. A multitude of media art waits with local and international guests presenting multimedia projects in various forms. Take a browse at contemporary art with an emphasis on the process of transformation and the creation of the new imaginary and connections. Pure aestheticism in media art!

Karim Rashid 20.10 Saturday - 01.01.2013 Tuesday

Ideology of Beauty Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17. Time magazine called him the “Most Famous Industrial Designer in All the Americas”, and it might be hard to argue with that accolade. Karim Rashid, born in Egypt to English parents, was no stranger to globetrotting, and has to date worked in 35 countries on over 3000 realised designs. He has won more than 300 awards of note, and within his field his reputation precedes him quite noticeably. His works, those which are not building sized, are on display in over a dozen museums worldwide, and now Zagreb can be added to that number. Ideology of Beauty is a presentation of Rashid’s works, including objects such as ‘Love Chair’, ‘Blobulous Lava’, ‘Vertex’, ‘Pleasurescape’, and ‘DNA’, which have all, during the past few decades, attracted the attentions of fellow designers and art lovers alike. This exhibition is intended to take the form of a dispute between art and design, always a contentious argument within the world of art. Each of the displayed objects will be put alongside other artworks, already on display, from Collection in Motion, which is permanently housed within the museum. The contrast between objects will create a ‘dialogue’ which will put across the message of the visiting exhibition. Also, though a multimedia presentation the artist will deliver his philosophy of design and his vision for the future of his medium.

07.10 Sunday - 11.11 Sunday

Culture of Smoking - from one taboo to another I-2, The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska 2, www.gliptoteka. mdc.hr. Take a ‘puff’ on this exhibiting rollercoaster ride which details the history of tobacco in this part of Europe. This controversial phenomenon is put into some perspective where an age old ritual had become a pleasure for the masses. See how smoking influenced culture, art, design, industry, lifestyle and even politics. It will provoke, evoke and dare we say make one reflect.

08.10 Monday - 11.11 Sunday

Robert Wilson - HD Video Portraits C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. What a CV! Wilson is ‘the’ founder of postmodern theatre and also delves in various media, including video. These are video essays of both random and famous people in film and beyond (Brad Pitt, Wynonna Ryder, Johny Depp, Salma Hayek, Sean Penn, Mikhail Baryshnikov, Dita Von Teese, and Caroline of Monaco amongst others) as according to Wilson who will also attend the event.

09.10 Tuesday - 28.10 Sunday

Bogdan Bogdanović - The Cursed Neimar I-2, The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska 2, www.gliptoteka. mdc.hr. In a memento to Belgrade architect and former Mayor, one can get a sense of the past with many of Bogdanović’s monuments built as a victory over fascism, yet his designs symbolised aestheticism rather than politics. His notary work is the Stone Flower at Jasenovac. Here, Bogdanović will be presented as a philosopher of architecture and writer.

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Karim Rashid, Bonaldo Poly Chair

16.10 Tuesday - 16.12 Sunday

Industrial centre of the country - Zagreb’s Industrial History and Heritage 1918-1945 C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz. hr. Enter the second phase of a project which researches, evaluates and presents Zagreb’s industrial heritage from an economical, historical, social, urban and architectural aspect. Those keen on city development as well as the conversion of former industrial buildings will have much to see.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:13:19

CULTURE & EVENTS Zagrebfest 24.10 Wednesday

Patrizia Donà, Objects to wear

02.11 Friday - 02.12 Sunday

Days of Archive Tošo Dabac - exhibition of Tošo Dabac photography and lectures J-5, NO Gallery, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Dabac’s opus is kept in the photographer’s former studio at Ilica 17, which is now an archive and gallery. The archive co-organises with the Museum of Contemporary Art the Days of Photography, showcasing the work of Dabac together with that other artists using the media of photography, film and video. Among Dabac’s favourite themes was the life of the Zagreb city streets. It’s a unique perspective on the city, giving you an insight into its true character.

Juraj Julije Klović 08.11 Thursday - 20.01.2013 Sunday

The Michelangelo of the Miniature Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, w w w. galerijaklovic.hr. A trip to Gornji Grad is in itself a worthy pastime so why not make it all the more memorable by taking the time to visit this particular exhibition. Considered the greatest miniaturist and illuminator of the Renaissance, Juraj Julije Klović was fortunate enough to be recognised as such during his lifetime (not always afforded to the greats). So much so, in fact, that very few of his works are actually available to view by the public, guarded as they are, zealously, by museums and private collections. Julio Clovio de Croazia, as he was sometimes known, is responsible for any number of prayer books, lectionaries, and breviaries, yet just three of his works still reside in Croatia. This exhibition in Klovićevi dvori Gallery will mark the 30th anniversary of its presence on the Zagreb cultural scene, and a remarkable endeavour it is. In order to secure the loan (which in itself was a feat worthy of an exhibition) of Klović’s works the gallery had to guarantee very specific and rigid conditions for the exhibition of the items, as well as their safekeeping. Ordinarily such items would be secure behind a vault door, not open to the wider public. Of course the gallery, named for the artist in question, was equal to the task and will, for the first time anywhere, be able to display a large part of Klović’s existing work in a single location.

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 14

J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66, w w w.hds. hr. Representing a musical genre k n own l o call y as “zabavna glazba”, Za grebfest has b e en a bastion of easy listening pop music since 1953. Culturally, this genre probabl y has its closest links with the emotionall y-imbued pop from Italy and a Europe-wide style known as “schlager” - saccharine-sweet, featherlight pop often sighted at the Eurovision Song Contest. In the English-speaking world, probably the most similar artists would be folks like Barry Manilow or Tom Jones. In Croatia easy listening Ivo Robić, MGZ Archives music has a following of people with a nostalgia for the hits of their youth as well as today’s pop music which draws on the same roots. The golden age of “fun music” was in the early ‘60s, with the festival winning the award of the Italian association of independent journalists, the Oscar Mondial, in 1963. Perhaps the most popular artist ever was Ivo Robić (29.01.1923 - 09.03.2000), nicknamed “Mister Morgen” following the success of his first international hit, “Morgen”. Q Starts at 20:00.

06.11 Tuesday - 24.11 Saturday

The 34th Zagreb Salon - International Photo Exhibition B-3, Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.zagreb-salon-photo.com. Time for some snapshots! Zagreb has maintained an admirable tradition of organising international photo exhibitions and this is yet another well respected international exhibition of art photography in which professional and amateur photographers from all over the world come to exhibit their work.

29.11 Thursday - 28.02.2013 Thursday

Reflections of Time 1945 - 1955 C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. Backtrack in time to post WWII where the installment of Communism had a major impact on Croatian soil and the lives of our forefathers. This exhibit relives this transitional phase with photographs retelling the changes in society, including symbols, motifs and icons of that decade.

October - November

Steve McCurry C-3, Ar t Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, w w w. umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. October/November See the work of New York based photojournalist Steve McCurry who is best known for his award winning photograph ‘Afghan Girl’. Having covered international conflicts from all over the world, this renegade with a camera presents several of his series from the 1980s until today. Themes differ from landscape shots, portraits to images of war.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Special events 17.09 Monday - 31.12 Monday

Romantic Autumn on Stross B-2, Strossmayerovo šetalište, Gornji grad. So, where can I take my dearest other half? Ponder you shall not, head to the Strossmayer Promenade from 10:00 until 23:00 any day and you’re bound to come across an intimate backdrop with acoustic guitar, piano, violin, vocals, fashion and art shows. Classical music will be played from midnight to 08:00, so bring your kindred hearts along to this true romantic setting.

04.10 Thursday - 31.10 Wednesday

The Return of Winnetou - A story about a German Western Goethe-Institut Kroatien, Ulica grada Vukovara 64; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1, www.goethe.de. Apache warriors! Cowboy outlaws! This exhibit takes you back to the author Karl May who wrote dramatic tales of a mythical hero (Chief Winnetou) which were later turned into a successful western series. In celebrating 100 years since May’s passing, the Goethe-Institut Kroatien is preparing a hot blooded rodeo feast with an exhibition on the Winnetou series (4th October - 31st October), screenings of German Westerns (10th October - 13th October), a film breakfast for kids, creative workshops, storytelling and more (13th October). So giddy-up as its chock-a-block full of American Indian fun! More details on venues and dates at www.goethe.de/ins/ hr/zag/hrindex.htm.

Mladen Stilinović 30.11 Friday - 03.02 Sunday

Retrospective J-5, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. The Museum of Contemporary Art will be hosting a retrospective of Mladen Stilinović, resident of Zagreb, native of Belgrade, and one of the leading figures in ‘New Art Practise’ in Croatia. His works are based upon the ideas of social and art critique and often feature humour, sly witticisms, and a healthy dose of irony and cynicism for good measure. He has exhibited around Europe, and further afield, in such places as Vienna, Istanbul, and of course Zagreb. His works are widely sought and can be seen on display in some of the finest establishments worldwide. To date his works reside in noted institutions such as the Museum of Modern Art, New York, and the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris. Museums of modern art in Stockholm, Vienna, Ljubljana, Zagreb and Banja Luka are also home to his works. He is well known for several of his installations and projects such as Red-Pink, which symbolise tautology and ideology, and Dictionary: Pain, in which he whited out many definitions only to replace them with a single word, pain. The main advantage to seeing such an exhibition in the city where the artist resides is self evident; there will be no shortage of experts from which to draw knowledge.

12.10 Friday - 20.10 Saturday

Zagreb kom7 B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, www. zagreb-festival.org. This is all about Chamber Music and in its 7th edition this International Music Festival sees the likes of Stefan Milenković, Susanna Yoko Henkel, Trey Lee and other musicians performing. The melodies of Vivaldi, Piazzolla, Beethoven, Mozart and Schubert are primed for the repertoire.

13.10 Saturday - 14.10 Sunday

Credo - I Believe A-4, KC Dražen Petrović, Savska 30. Dubbed as one of the best Christian theatrical shows and is performed by members of the Cenacolo Community; an organization giving people with addictions new life. After selling out shows across Europe, Zagreb has two dates reserved for this meaningful musical. Q Musical starts at 20:00. Tickets 30kn.

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Mladen Stilinović, Baraka

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:13:45

CULTURE & EVENTS Chui Interview

16.10 Tuesday - 20.10 Saturday

Big Rock Explosion #5 Sax, Palmotićeva 22/2; KSET, Unska 3; Tvornica kulture (Mali pogon), Ljudevita Posavskog 1; Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb. One event that gets bigger by the year we tell you! Choose from 17 acts which will perform across four venues in and around town. Exciting headliners include Croatian rock stalwarts Vatra and the first foreign band deriving from Liverpool, Orange Room!

24.10 Wednesday - 21.12 Friday

The 8th New Circus Festival

Who is Chui and how did you come into being? Chui is keyboard player Toni Starešinić, drummer Đuro Dobranić and trumpet player Andrej Jakuš. Toni and Đuro started out on sessions which soon turned into arrangements of Toni’s compositions. After a few rehearsals they were already set for recording. Andrej only was introduced to the material when he came to the studio for the recording, and he then had no idea where this work was heading... The studio material was ready very soon, and the group started holding concerts. They quickly found a record label, and in less than six months after coming together the band’s first album was in the shops. Then followed a spectacular summer tour, and right now we’re ready to promote the album in Zagreb. Where and when will the promotion be in Zagreb? In the Purgeraj night club, in the new Park hall, on Friday 12 October 2012. Everyone’s invited! You’ll be able to buy the album at a special price of just 30 kuna, and we’re planning a special suprise... What do you expect from this album? We want people to get to know us and to get to know our sound. We’re trying to reach people who love and seek out modern, electro fusion music and who want to support us as we grow. What does Chui mean? Has it got anything to do with the mascot on the album cover? Chui means “leopard” in Swahili, and that’s how our mascot got its tail. “Chui” is a play on words: when you say “chui” in Croatian it means “listen!” - and that’s our message to people. That’s why the mascot has got big ears. Also, the mascot is wearing a space suit because our music is full of ambient space psychodelia. What are your plans for the future, and what is your sound like After the promotion in Zagreb we plan to promote the album throughout Croatia and abroad. Instrumental music is on the outer margins of culture and entertainment in Croatia, especially now during the crisis. But we’re cheered by the excellent reception of our music by the critics and our audiences. We’ve found a sound that enables us to be really creative, even experimental, but at the same time simple and accessible, especially to young people. Our concerts are full of energy and all kinds of musical styles: jazz, rock, ambient, electronica, fusion… which will intrigue even the most sceptical of people! We’d like to thank our record label, Dancing Bear, for all their support, as well as everyone who has bought our CD and supported our talent and work.

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 16

KIC, Preradovićeva; Travno Scene, B. Magovca 17; Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb, www.cirkus.hr. Forget the rabbit out of a hat trick this is new wave art that meets atypical circus with a macabre edge. See levitation, disappearances, holograms, mind-reading, objects coming to life, dancing shadows, and more… International acts that thrill throughout each month of autumn. Visit www.cirkus.hr for programme details. Q Tickets available at profil Megastore, Bogovićeva 7 , Integral pothodnik, French Mediateque, Preradovićeva 5.

26.10 Friday - 28.10 Sunday

Comic Books Show Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva2; Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska 4; French Mediatheque, Petra preradovića 5; Svijet stripa Kačićeva 6a, udruga.crs@gmail.com, www.crs-festival.com. Are you still a child at heart? Age is of no importance when it comes to comic books and this popular comic book festival continues to attract some of the world’s best comic writers. Expect heaps of book exhibitions, interviews with authors and more.

26.10 Friday

Electronic Beats Festival I-5, Zagr eb Fair, Avenija Dubr ovnik 15, w w w. electronicbeats.net. Cutting edge acts from the electronic scene are set to illuminate Pavilion 9 at the Zagreb Fair. British electro-pop band Hot Chip headline and will be supported by German duo Modeselektor, Dillon and Woodkid. The icing on the cake will come from Croatian musicians and DJs. Q Show starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 120kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Miljenko Horvat - Napoli 1972, Fotografija u boji

zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:13:54

CULTURE & EVENTS

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Opening Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Thursday 10.00 - 19.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Opening Hours from 1 July to 30 September: Tuesday - Friday 10.00 - 19.00 Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Rooseveltov trg 5 10000 Zagreb Croatia Telephone+ 385 (0)1 +/ )/ ('' Fax + 385 (0)1 +/ )- './ E-mail: mimara@mimara.hr Audio Visual Guide on your smart phone and WiFi –Free

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16.11 Friday

Chansonfest C-1, Komedija Theatre, Kaptol 9, info@hds.hr, www.hds. hr. Fancy shedding a few tears over your tragic love life with a bunch of complete strangers? We know we do. So let’s all go to the Chanson Festival at the Zagreb Comedy Theatre (they’re having a laugh?) on 16 November. Bring a toilet roll.

17.11 Saturday

European Theatre Night www.noc-kazalista.com. One evening in the year dedicated to the dramatic and performing arts, European Theatre Night is celebrated in most major Croatian Theatres. It’s night when theatres come alive with the buzz of meetings, conversation and new ideas both among theatre professionals and the audience. Exchange programmes are held, familiarising the Croatian public with the treats that European theatre holds and promoting the Croatian dramatic arts abroad.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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All Jazzed Out! Jazz has often, u n fa i r l y, b e e n described as musi c for an older generation. Yet its popularity only ever seems t o g r o w, a n d l ooki n g at th e au tumn ah ead o f us i t is not hard to see why. Billy Hart by Brian Mc Millen E v e r y S u n d a y Lisinski will be hosting a jazz event, from the HGM Jazz Orchestra which features some of Zagreb’s finest young jazz musicians, to more mainstream and recognisable names. Offering these budding Buddy Rich’s and Robert Johnson’s a chance to play in such surroundings only serves to give them confidence and helps develop their own styles. Here you will see the future superstars of Croatian jazz. Other acts to feature in this Sunday cycle are Jim McNeely, one of the most important jazz pianists on the scene today, and coming up to Christmas you will be able to bring the kids along to witness Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker being performed by the HGM Jazz Orchestra once more. But that’s not all! From the 15th til the 18th of October Lisinski will host a series of concerts featuring names such as Karlheinz Miklin, Heiri Kanzig, Billy Hart, Charles Tolliver, Kenny Werner, and Claudio Roditi. As the presenter of Jazz Club used to famously say, nice. In a world of ever evolving musical styles and tastes, jazz, for all its natural inclination towards improvisation, is an ironic constant.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:14:20

CULTURE & EVENTS Valentina Bunić Valentina Bunić is from Zabok, not far from Zagreb. She has a degree in architecture, and her love of photography grew during her student years. However, she began in earnest in 2007 when she took part in the Fotonaut school of photography in Zagreb. In September 2012 her first solo exhibition of photography, “Details”, opened in Fotoklub Zagreb. She has also shown her works in group exhibitions throughout Croatia and abroad, as well as in national and international magazines. She has won several awards and significant acclaim in national and international competitions. “First and foremost, photography is my greatest love,” says Valentina. “Most of my photographs came into being through my explorations of the world through the viewfinder, recording chance happenings during walks through the city and capturing the beauty of the changing seasons on country walks.” You can enjoy some of Valentina’s work in the pages of this issue of Zagreb in Your Pocket.

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

Museum of Br oken Relationship s (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1)

Valentina Bunić, Čuvar grada

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon U

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 18

485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships. com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg

N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Zoom into more events! 20.09 Thursday - 13.10 Saturday

Šime Perić - Exhibition of paintings and sculptures C-2, Forum Gallery, Teslina 16. 22.09 Saturday - 24.10 Wednesday

Andreja Živko - Windows into my World

G-2, O’grada! Culture Club, Trg siječanjskih žrtava 8, www.kulturniklub-ograda.com.

26.09 Wednesday - 19.10 Friday

Atmosphere - Architecture and product design Center for Design HGK gallery, Draškovićeva ulica 45, www.hgk.hr.

01.10 Monday - 01.03 Friday

Sutures, structures, textures - Fossila as an

inspiration in fashion design B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, www.hpm.hr. 02.10 Tuesday - 30.10 Tuesday

Zlatko Bourek - Military Diary 1956 C-3, HAZU Graphics Cabinet, Strossmayerov trg 12, www. kabinet-grafike.hazu.hr. 04.10 Thursday - 13.10 Saturday

Patrizia Donà - Objects to wear C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, www.ulupuh.hr.

10.10 Wednesday - 20.10 Saturday Andreja Živko, Windows into my World

Classic 15.10 Monday

Lidija Horvat Dunjko, soprano & Marija Mlinar,

harp C-1, Dverce Palace, Trg Katarine Zrinske 6, www. kdz.hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00. 20.10 Saturday

Eva Oertle, flute & Vesselin Stanev, piano

B-3, The Mimara Museum, Rooseveltov trg 5, www. kdz.hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

06.11 Tuesday

The Gal Trio B-3, The Mimara Museum, Rooseveltov trg 5, www.kdz.hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

12.11 Monday

Tomislav Vukšić, guitar C-1, Dverce Palace, Trg Katarine Zrinske 6, www.kdz.hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00. 04.12 Tuesday

The Egmont Trio B-3, The Mimara Museum, Rooseveltov trg 5, www.kdz.hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00. 10.12 Monday

Josipa Lončar, soprano & Frederic Bernard, guitar C-1, Dverce Palace, Trg Katarine Zrinske 6,

www.kdz.hr. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

Exhibitions 13.09 Thursday - 14.10 Sunday

The best Astronomical Photo of the Year A-4,

Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18, www.tehnickimuzej.hr.

13.09 Thursday - 21.10 Sunday

Vatroslav Kuliš - Paintings 1980-2012

C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr.

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Gustav Klimt C-1, The Kristofor Stanković Gallery, Ulica sv. Ćirila i Metoda 5.

11.10 Thursday - 29.10 Monday

Marina Tuđina Badurina - Painting on a pottery table C-3, Permanenta Gallery, Preradovićeva 44/1, www.ulupuh.hr.

18.10 Thursday - 31.10 Wednesday

Ivana Bakal and Katarina Radošević - Tailored from askew (from the needle… to slaint)

C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, www.ulupuh.hr.

Rock & Pop Concerts 15.10 Monday

Paradise Lost f eat. Soen I-4, Jedinstvo Factory,Trnjanski nasip bb, www.boogaloo.hr. Q Concert starts at 21:00. 16.10 Tuesday

GusGus H-5, Aquarius, Matije Ljubeka bb, www. aquarius.hr. Q Tickets 80 - 150kn. 20.10 Saturday

Damir Imamović Sevdah Takht E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 60 - 80kn. 22.10 Monday

Mick Harvey Band D-1, Purgeraj Park, Ribnjak. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn.

24.10 Wednesday

Accept I-3, Jedinstvo Factory,Trnjanski nasip bb, www.boogaloo.hr. Q Concert starts at 21:00.

08.11 Thursday

Brit Floyd - The Pink Floyd Tribute Show H-3, Dom sportova, Trg sprtova 11. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 160 - 230kn. 24.11 Saturday

Mark Lanegan Band D-1, Purgeraj Park, Ribnjak. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 120 - 150kn.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:14:28

CINEMA TOUR 25.10 Thursday - 26.10 Friday

Elle Fashion Film Festival B-1, Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39. Do you have a fetish for fashion and film? Then this festival is a double whammy with well worked documentaries dedicated to labels and designers including Cristóbal Balenciaga,Lanvin and others. The festival is in conjunction with Elle Magazine’s 10th anniversary in Croatia.

08.11 Thursday - 10.11 Saturday

Pssst! The 6th Festival of Silent Film House at the end of the street Zagreb has, alongside its share of plush multiplex cinemas, retained a fair number of old-fashioned picture houses that will delight nostalgia freaks as well as fans of European art cinema and other non-mainstream genres. Even better than that, a welcome side effect of the past couple of years of recession has been a revival of cinema-going, with a brace of rather unique new cinemas opening in these crisis-stricken years. If you don’t happen to speak Croatian, the good news is that almost all films are subtitled, not dubbed, so you’ll be able to follow the action if you understand the original language. The first cinema screening more or less as we know it in Zagreb took place in 1896, advertised by the slogan “Living pictures shown here!” Those famous pictures of a locomotive steaming full tilt towards the audience were shown to the dismay of much of the audience, who were then cheered up by a tableau depicting a row between a husband and wife, with the latter robustly administering a broom to the rump of the former to the general delight of the audience. Early public screenings were usually held in the open air or in circus-tents. In 1906 Zagreb got its first permanent cinema, at the spot where the city’s Hotel Dubrovnik now stands. The next cinema to open, in the same year, was today’s Kino Europa, then called the Cyril and Methodius Bioscope. Then cinemas started popping up like mushrooms all over the city. Some of them are still in use today: for example, Kino Tuškanac, then called the Olimp, also opened in the early part of the 20th century; and Kino Zagreb stands on the site where a former cinema, Kino Metropol, was demolished in 1931. As in most modern cities many old picture houses have closed down without trace, but in some cases the buildings have been saved and continue to be used for cultural purposes thanks to their unique design, which makes them ideal for use as theatres. So in the former Helios you’ll now find the Gavella drama theatre, while the Apolo, later known as Kino Croatia, is now the Kerempuh satirical theatre. If you fancy sampling what the wonderful world of Zagreb cinema has to offer today, here’s what you’ll find where. ‘Cannibal Vegetarian’ is the Croatian candidate for the Oscars 2012. The Croatian Film Society chose the film by Branko Schmidt which will be considered in the selection process for the Best Foreign Film Award at the Oscars.

14.10 Sunday - 21.10 Sunday

Zagreb Film Festival Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10; Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17; Grič Cinema, Jurišićeva 6, press@zagrebfilmfestival.com, www. zagrebfilmfestival.com. Congrats to our cities grand Film Festival on their 10 year milestone! Pencil in a visit with over 100 staggering screenings on the agenda, just check out the main category with; Best feature-length fiction film, best short-fiction film and best documentary. Then there is Bib for kids, My First Film, Spy Films, book presentations, lectures, the Youth Industry educational programme and a retrospective on Michael Glawogger who will attend in person. If you’re a film fanatic, then this is your haven!

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 20

H-4, Centar za kulturu Trešnjevka, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, www.festivalnijemogfilma.com. See film through a different light, this is where the audio background of a film is removed and the organisers provide an alternative sound accompaniment. Modern day film makers and amateur enthusiasts are more than welcome to contribute. In addition, see masterpieces of the silent film genre as well as contemporary works. Pssst! Remember, shhh!

22.11 Thursday - 24.11 Saturday

One Take Film Festival Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska 2, www.onetakefilmfestival.com. This international film festival promotes films shot in one take with documentaries, feature film, experimental, music, video and other film styles on show.

Cinemas Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17

(Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Cineplexx Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 563 38 88, info@cineplexx. hr, www.cineplexx.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat , Sun 10:30 - 22:00. CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. net. Q Tickets 20kn can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 08:30 - 22:00 or the net www.dokukino.net. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr.Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 15kn. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr.Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/.Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn.

Zagreb Film Festival Archives

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WHERE TO STAY Symbol key

stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €133 - 183, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €183 - 233, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 21 Executive Suites €268 - 318). PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

Upmarket

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-

1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available dail y room rates. Pets welcome at 30€ dail y. Q 306 rooms (254 doubles €125 - 168, 28 suites €195 - 303, 23 Executive Rooms €150 - 193, Presidential Suite €1500). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westinzagreb. com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-delu xe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your

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1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@ arcotel.at, w w w.arcotel.at/allegra. Th e Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €90 - 116, 142 doubles €99 - 124, 4 suites €133 - 250). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:14:31

WHERE TO STAY BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2,

Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. Th e refurbish ed BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q 245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220). POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh

Old-School charm Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@Esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/ day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €159 - 194, 48 Delu x Rooms €178, 13 Delux Suite €309, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €109, 89 doubles €139, 3 suites €243, 3 Junior Suites €194). PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh

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zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:14:34

WHERE TO STAY

Your hotel in the heart of Zagreb…

SEMINARS

CONGRESSES

WEDDINGS

EVENTS

BUSINESS LUNCHES

JUICE BAR

Ljudevita Gaja 1, 10 000 Zagreb, Hrvatska, Tel.: +385 1 4863-555, Fax: + 385 1 4863-550, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr

Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484

Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04

11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh

00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh. hr, w w w.sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q 41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). THA6UFGBKDCW hhh

Homestays

InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+3851) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme. hr. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €51 - 118, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh

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Short term rental 32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel. (+3851) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@novagalerija. com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:14:44

RESTAURANTS Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30 (80 - 150kn). PAGB Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42. An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). PAGB

Chic & Cheerful

Kaptol Restaurant

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Bosnian Sofra K-4, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52, tel.

(+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (35 - 98kn). PALGB

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 24

Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically French-style bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (48 - 380kn). AB KavaTava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33, info@tomtom.hr. The red-roofed coffee cabin with its creative cup décor offers yet another way to enjoy the produce of Britanski Square farmers’ market. Ingredients travel a matter of meters to become hearty breakfasts like egg platters and pancakes or the latest lunch special, most of which are less than 30 kn. Other favorites include milkshakes and a selection of local sausages. While weekends prove to be peak-time for the market, locals love this recent addition to the neighborhood any time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. (14 - 110kn). JNB Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 40. Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen, meals are by reservation only (served 12:00 - 16:00 and 19:00 - 23:00). QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNB Tri Praščića B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 63 43. The three little pigs built their bar right: no amount of huffing or puffing will blow down the wall of wines afront this tastfully simple tapas bar. The decor, like the munchies, is minimalistic with maximized taste. Look for the corner building stunningly tiled in Bohemian blue and gold patterns and head toward the artsy 40-somethings lingering outside the neighborhood’s latest and greatest gathering spot. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (15 - 75kn). PJNGW

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RESTAURANTS Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Q Open 12:00 23:00. Sun 12:00 - 22:00,(68 - 130kn). P1TAGB Tač H-2, Vrhovec 140, tel. (+385-1) 377 67 57, info@ restac.hr, www.restac.hr. Meat. This is what you’ll find here, and lots of it. However far off the beaten track, this place still packs in the crowd for excellent quality home cooking. On Fridays, menu space is surrendered to fish, and praise the Lord, this is one of the few restaurants in town where you’ll find Adriatic fish such as mackerel and sardines. Jump off tram 6 or 11 at Mandaličina and take the bus to Vrhovec. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 120kn). PAILGBX Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAGW Bistro Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 75, initium.vini@zg.t-com.hr, www.bistrokarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Mano I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). PAGBW

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb 68-1.indd 25

Truffles, Wine and Chestnuts 30.09 Sunday - 04.11 Sunday

Istria -truffles, wine and chestnuts Istria’s old hilltop towns and rolling countryside paint a picture of a Croatian Tuscany complete with a host of foodie treats. Gastronomically speaking, this is one of Croatia’s most interesting regions. The heart of Istria is where the white truffle flourishes and you can really dabble in some gem dishes spruced with truffles. Join in the exhibitions, promo sales, cooking workshops, wine, cheese and other eco gastro sampling on the Zigante Truffle Days in Livade from 30 September to 4 November, www.trufflefair.com. At this time of the year, you can feast on wild mushrooms and sweet chestnuts. The coastal town of Lovran (technically not Istria, but near enough) is famous for chestnuts, and at their autumn chestnut festival (Marunada) you can try all kinds of food and drink, including excellent rakijas such as medica (made with honey), and there’s music, dancing and sports. It all happens on the weekends between 12 and 28 October. Take a look at www.tz-lovran.hr. Istria has some of the finest wines around, and a wine tour is highly recommended. You’ll discover excellent restaurants and have some of the countr y’s best accommodation at your disposal (think lovely stone cottages). The four Wine Routes of Istria are: 1 - Brtonigla, Umag, Novigrad, Dalja, Nova Vas, Grožnjan, Buje, Savudria 2 - Višnjan, Tar, Baderna, Funtana, Lovreč 3 - Buzet, Tinjan, Pazin 4 - Rovinj, Vodnjan, Valbandon.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:14:46

An invitation to the 8

IVANI端-GRAD October 20-21, 2012

@tzzzhr www.tzzz.hr oglas.indd 1 Zagreb 68-1.indd 26

www.facebook.com/bucijada 5.10.2012. 13:14:47

HAT A WAY

to warm up for Halloween with this inaugural fair dedicated to that large orange fruit we’ve come to love and adore, or dare we say bring shivers and goose bumps when turned into a ‘jack-o-lantern’.

The traditional Pumpkin Festival in Ivaniý-Grad is an exhibiting and selling pumpkin fair of pumpkin products and other eco-ethno products. In conjunction with the festival, the Days of Pumpkin Oil will coincide with presentations from producers of pumpkin oil. Dabble and do some tasting, learn about the know all of how to recognize quality pumpkin oil and all its uses in gastronomy.

HE HEART OF THE CITY

will be jam packed with entertainment for young and old: ride on the pumpkin coach, there are eco-backyards with pumpkins for kids, folk customs, educational workshops, theatre shows, exhibitions, musical and tambura bands, a visit to a traditional ÿardak (traditional wooden home), a ZOO with domestic animals, a Cinderella Ball, a pumpkin museum, and an exhibition of scrumptious pumpkin cakes. As the summer subsides and autumn sets in, pumpkins harvest and become the ‘in season’ food, this has been a long remaining tradition and local restaurants as well as gastro-tents are sure to cook up a rich assortment of pumpkin meals with heaps of dishes to choose from.

O WHERE IS IVANI -GRAD? Well, it’s a mere 30 minute

drive from Zagreb via the Slavonski Brod freeway or you can catch the special train, ‘Buÿko Express’ which leaves on Saturday and Sunday of October 20 and 21, at 09:18am from the Main Train Station in Zagreb. The timetable for the Buÿko Express Train (Squash Express): Leaves at 09:18am 09:23am 09:28am 09:35am 09:46am Arrives at 10:06am

from the Zagreb Train Station from Maksimir from Trnava from Sesvete from Dugo selo in Ivaniý-Grad RETURN:

Leaves at 04:10pm from Ivaniý-Grad Arrives at 05:03pm at the Zagreb Train Station For more info go to: www.tzig.hr or www.ivanic-grad.hr. Zagreb County Tourist Board | Preradoviýeva 42, 10000 Zagreb tel. +385 1 4873 665, tel./fax: +385 1 4873 670 E-mail: info@tzzz.hr, infodesk@tzzz.hr Zagreb 68-1.indd 27

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RESTAURANTS Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11,

info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open Mon 19:00 - 23:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGB Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.regenthotels.com.Zinfandels, named after California’s most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). PAGBW

Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr. Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. (+385-1) 617 75 45, fellini@ fellini.hr, www.fellini.hr. A pale yellow friend, you needn’t bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy a meal here.Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location make it a pleasing experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60, senka.rubelj@gmail.com, www.pizzalucas.com. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn). PAGB

Japanese Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

33, info@hanafudasushi.com, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB

Week of Restaurants 05.10 Friday - 14.10 Sunday w w w.tjedanrestorana.com. From New York to London and to our humble Zagreb! Choose from over 100 restaurants to wine and dine at the mere price of 100kuna. Special 3 course menus will be served up with the odd aperitif or glass of wine on the house. What a bargain and great way to experience new cuisines.

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Desserts Cukeraj A-2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, cukeraj@cukeraj.hr, www.cukeraj.hr. Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54 QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. P1GW Le Kolač E-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76, slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. 1NGBW Meli D-2, Vlaška 45, tel. (+385-) 099 369 75 38, info@meli.com.hr, www.meli.com.hr. A tiny little gem in Vlaška, we highly recommend you make a trip for a pick’n’mix box of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly delicious. They make home-made bajadera - the taste is something like chocolate fudge. Most slastičarnice sell rather similar cakes but this one is quite different: one of their celebration cakes will certainly delight. Call or drop by to order. Also at Dubovačka 17 (H3), tel. (+385-1) 369 75 39. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. P1NG Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. P1NGW The Cookie Factory C-1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 01/(+385-) 099 494 94 00, info@ cookiefactory.hr, www.cookiefactory.hr. Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is complimentary. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. P1JAGBW Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). P1AG

Mexican Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PALEGW zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:14:56

RESTAURANTS

Vegeterian corner

Pizza

Kaptol Restaurant

Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16. With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 350kn). PAVGB

Quick Eats Hamburger Bar K-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. All hamburgers cost 30kn. B

Serbian Opera K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 232 88 60,

branislav.cvetkovic@gmail.com. Take your tastebuds on a tour of regional specialities without even leaving town. Opera’s owner, and only server, creates a welcome-home atmosphere while guiding guests through menu selections served-up on hardy hand-made platters. Meat-lovers can feast on a selection of grilled specialities that simply dare you to try and save room for desert. Even lighter sides have a uniquely spicey twist perfectly tempered with Serbian beers and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun (40 - 140kn). PAGB

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Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www.mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&Bio (www.biobio.com. hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+3851) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 09:00 - 17:00. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/ (+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 69kn). A6VGSW Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75. Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (27 - 35kn). PNG

Pumpkin Festival 20.10 Saturday - 21.10 Sunday Ivanić-Grad. A festi val wh ere you’ll h a ve t h e chan ce to sample and b u y a wh ol e ran ge of d eli ca ci e s ma d e from pumpkin. Th ere’ll b e myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by carriage and classic car laid on, children’s play areas and workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibitions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in Ivanić-Grad - and you’re most welcome to join in the fun! Ivanić-Grad Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 288 15 91, info@ tzig.hr, www.tzig.hr.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:14:57

FEAST OF WINE

Wine is one of the hidden jewels of inland Croatia. Not so many people know (yet) that Zagreb County is a prolific wine producer. But that’s about to change, because wines from the here have been winning more than the lion’s share of awards at local and international exhibitions. The hills around Zagreb are home to two types of wine you won’t find anywhere else: Portugizac, a light red with a young wine character (a little like Beaujolais Nouveau); and a delicate, refreshing white: Kraljevina. The home of Portugizac is the Plešivica mountain near Samobor, while Kraljevina comes from the hills northeast of Zagreb, near the town of Sveti Ivan Zelina. There is an abundance of more familiar wine varieties too, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Rizling (Riesling), Rizvanac and Zeleni Silvanac (the last two are known as Müller Thurgau and Grüner Silvaner in German-speaking wine producing areas). Wine routes of Zagreb County What are these? Well, there are two Wine Routes: one on Plešivica, with 35 vineyards, and one near Sveti Ivan Zelina, where there are 12 wineries (and the annual exhibition of the wines of inland Croatia is held). You drive along, taking in the view, and signs direct you to local winemakers, who will guide you through their cellars, sometimes offering local specialities to complement your wine-tasting experience. Whether you’re drinking or not, it’s definitely worth your while to take a drive through the wine routes. The steep slopes of the foothills covered with vineyards are a captivating sight, and in some of the picturesque villages it’s as if time has stood still. How to do it Your best bet is to head to the Zagreb County Tourist Board office at Preradovićeva 42, (tel. +385-1 487 36 65) open 08:00-16:00 Mon-Fri. There, you can pick up a map showing both wine routes, and the location and contact details of every wine producer.

Mighty fine Wine Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 35 93, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. “Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 110kn). PALGBW Wines to try Mladina (Plešivica) is one of the biggest producers locally. The attractive cellars were founded by the aristocratic Erdödy family, who were winemakers as far back as the 18th century, and their wines are regular award-winners. Also in Plešivica, Velimir Korak’s Sauvignon is stunning, and the Chardonnay is an excellent wine too. His family also offers great food in their cellars. Drago Režek is president of the association of producers of the wine brand Portugizac Plešivica. His Sauvignon is of fine quality, his Zeleni Silvanac (Grüner Silvaner) is lovely, and his family is a friendly bunch. Around Sveti Ivan Zelina, we can recommend Stjepan Jarec for a warm welcome and excellent wine.

St Martin‘s Day (Martinje) 11.11 Sunday

Zagreb County Tourist Board Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 30

In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St Martin’s Day the grape must is “baptised” and turned into wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according to legend St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when he was proclaimed bishop. Martinje is celebrated in many towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hillside wine cellars around Dugo Selo (November 10). Zagreb County Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr , www.tzzz.hr.

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CAFÉS Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. PBXW Lav Gallery & Caffè C-1, Opatička 2, tel. (+385-1) 492 2108. Between St. Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate, this tucked-away café has a great view that is too often overlooked. The delicious teas, either in a stately service or refreshingly iced, make it a perfect spot in any weather. Lav’s antique décor and local artists’ gallery adds to the dignified elegance of any visit to Upper Town. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00 B Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout. Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 00 01, www.retro-caffe. hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PNBXW Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 820 50 20, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www.svijetstripa.hr. Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection. Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events. With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. PNBXW U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW

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Art Side of Cafés Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03

66. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PNGBXW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PJAGBW Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artiststroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

Coffee art 18.10 Thursday - 21.10 Sunday C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, www.coffeeart-zagreb. com. This is literally coffee heaven! Anything to do with the magic bean is here, from producers, roasters, and designers to the latest equipment and accessories. Then there are coffee cakes, chocolate, cigars, cognac, rum, liqueurs, cocktails and you can even see the emergence of coffee drawing. Let the aroma take you away for at least one day…

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NIGHTLIFE Purgeraj&Park D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. The novelty is the addition ‘Park’ in the title, that’s the name of the hall where various concerts are held. Q Open Mon 09:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun PJEBXW Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, kizohc@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EBW

Alternative AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11. org, w w w.pierottijeva11.org. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on weekdays depending on the request. Check out their website to see what’s going on. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@kset. org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, 20:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. EGW Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. Prostor Do I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28. Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become. Q Open Mon Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PBXW Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 32

Bars Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03

06. There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PBX Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of attractive mid 20-30’s, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:30 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PJAGXW

Casinos Casino Fortuna E-2, Stara Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60, casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PGX Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, recepcija@major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PGX

www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:15:13

NIGHTLIFE Savska 14 (ex Krivi Put) A-4, Savska 14. This no-

nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-and-coming local and international muscians. Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standingroom only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. PBX

Clubs Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. (+385-1) 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius. hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It has two separate floors with each with a different sound. Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish theme night is ‘Delirious’ with house music to get you hoppin. Other nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PGX Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, lemon@ lemon.hr, www.lemon.hr. Minimalistic interior with very few details, the terrace in the garden of the Archeology Museum is a highlight of the centre. There is an extensive range of foreign drinks, cocktails and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PABXW Melin C-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 66, www. melin.hr. This small space with a big reputation transforms from cafe-by-day to club-by-night while keeping its groovy vibe on at all hours. Situated just off the oh-so-famous Tkalčićeva street, Melin’s massive terrace has many locals gravitating here in warm weather. The interior provides copious niches and nooks, inviting for drinks in-style any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. B Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJNGXW zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb 68-1.indd 33

Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@saxzg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss. Q Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. X Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PALGW VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club. hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30 kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb’s best musical performances. Q Open Tue - Sat 20:00 - 05:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGB Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 06, sasa9@net.hr. If you’re not wearing your hottest gear don’t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides a stonkingly popular and rather large “pub” - all dark wood and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PBX Sheridan’s Pub (Savska 36), tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. The Old Pharmacy Pub C-3, Hebrangova 11a, tel. (+385-1) 492 19 12. The mix of great waiters, CNN, Sky Sports and surprising collection of English newspapers makes this place a chill hangout, perfect for business or pleasure. Music doesn’t shatter your eardrums, rare in these parts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PAX October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:15:21

WHAT TO SEE Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Dijana Nazor

Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby. St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 34

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

Rastić - Tkalča, Zagreb Tourist Board

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WHAT TO SEE Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene

umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Prebookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Valentina Bunić, Kap po kap

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Dolac and Britanski trg

Karen Olson Dolac The main city market, ‘Dolac’, represents a true Zagreb experience to any visitor. It is located in the old city centre, between the Ban Jelačić Square, Kaptol, the Cathedral and the Upper Town. The top level offers fruit and vegetables, eggs, cheese, cream and other dairy products which can be bought. There is a fish market that houses fresh and salt water fish as well as an assortment of other seafood. Inside the big hall in front of Dolac, cheese, cream and other dairy products are also sold, not to mention scrumptious homemade cakes…there are also many butcher shops as well as fruit and vegetable stands. The construction of the Dolac market started in 1927 with the digging of the hill that once stood there. In 1930, when the market was finally open, it was the most modern market at that time and consisted of three levels. The fish market was opened in 1936 and was completely reconstructed in 1989. North of Dolac, there is the Petrica Kerempuh Square with various florists and a famous café. From the north, the market then expands to Opatovina with numerous fashion and crafty type shops. The Ban Jelačić Square and Dolac are connected by Splavnica Street where flowers are also sold. Dolac is most famous for its kumice, traditional women mostly of the older gen who not only sell goods from the Zagreb outskirts but also grow the fruit and vegetables which are then sold at the market. In their honour and as a reminder of that tradition, a statue of kumica was erected at the market in 2006. Working hours: 07:00 – 15:00, Sat 07:00 – 14:00; Sun 07:00 – 13:00. Britanski trg (British Square) Do you enjoy perusing, exploring or dare we say nosing around, spontaneously looking for that odd item that gives a finishing touch to your abode? Then head on to the Britanski trg, one of Zagreb’s long-lasting squares. There is the fair of ceramics, porcelain, glass and jewellery which is held every Thursday from 12:00 until 20:00. Readers can delve into the second-hand book fair called Liberplac, it is on every Friday from 12:00 until 20:00. The most popular fair is the Antiques fair which is open on Saturdays from 07:00 until 14:00 and on Sundays from 07:30 until 14:30.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:15:24

WHAT TO SEE Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton. hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 -30kn.

Zagreb’s Solar System Dian Kandić, Forte

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Claudia Lichnovksy, Statue backyard of Modern Gallery

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 36

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WHAT TO SEE

Day of the Dead

Karen Olson

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

The celebration of this, the “Day of the Dead” (Dan mrtvih), is so impressively joyous and broad in this culture we’re guessing you will be amazed. Every year on this date locals pay homage to friends and family that have died, trekking from wherever they live to the beautiful Zagreb cemetery Mirogoj in the early evening before the sun has gone down. They move as a great mass up the hill, walking together as a family or catching the neverending line of buses that have come together to move great numbers. The candles are so numerous it creates an effect that is almost like a second sunset, the glowing, flickering beauty seen from great distances. Of course flowers appear in great number and colourful abundance also. If you’re in town this evening you absolutely must see the procession for yourself – it is both moving and tremendously beautiful. Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

Gvozdanović Collection B-1, Visoka 8. A unique chance to see a painstakingly selected collection of Croatian masters in their original setting in the private apartment of the collectors, at Visoka 8, close to the main square but overlooking leafy Tuškanac. The apartment is worth seeing in its own right: an opulent period villa complete with original furniture and objets d’art, featuring colour themed rooms where the couple held art salons. Musical salon Gvozdanović in 2012 presents young musicians from the Zagreb Musical Academy.

30.10 Tuesday Filip Merčep 04.12 Tuesday Srđan Bulat

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Kristina Vlakić, Mirogoj

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:15:43

WHAT TO SEE St. Catherine’s Church C-1, Katarinin trg, www.kdz.hr. This sweet sister is pretty in pink and is the essence of the term Baroque. No need to worry if you’re broke either, checking it out is free of charge as is a dips worth of holy water. It’s in the southeast corner of Gornji Grad. 19.10 Friday Ensemble Minstrel, gala concert of the early Baroque programme, It ceremonially becomes a concert centrepiece as it hosts the 2012/2013 Anno della fede cycle.

12.10 Friday Ivana Srbljan, mezzo soprano & Ivana Biliško, harp Q Concert starts at 20:00. 07.11 Wednesday Zagreb Flute Ensemble, Renata Penezić - art director Q Concert starts at 20:00.

02.12 Sunday Ivan Goran Kovačić Academic Choir, Michael Mitchell - conductor Q Concert starts at 20:00.

Valentina Bunić, Harmica

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)

485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U

Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

www.inyourpocket.com Ivan Smuk, Klupa

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WHAT TO SEE

Maksimir Park is one of Europe's largest public parks, with a ground area of 316 hectares, somewhat larger than Hyde Park's 142. Originally constructed on the outskirts of Zagreb, towards the end of the 18th century it soon found itself surrounded by the ever sprawling urban Zagreb. The park takes its name from Bishop Maksimilian Vrhovec, who once owned the lands; Maksimir is a contraction of ‘Maksimilijanov mir’, meaning ‘Maksimilian's peace’. Interestingly the park is not only considered a location of some solitude by the human visitors, but by the animal population as well. The park is home to a number of species of squirrel and bat (which you can see flying around in the fading light), but also to the Middle Spotted Woodpecker: endangered throughout Europe but thriving, somewhat, in Maksimir. It was intended that the park be done in the French style, but looking at it today it is clear that it is more English than anything else, with a number of lakes, ponds, streams, and meadows, all of which provide a diverse habitat for a wide variety of plants and creatures. And it is very much a case of All Creatures Great and Small as the park has been home to Zagreb Zoo since 1925 (the Zoo underwent a major modernisation project in 1990 and they are still looking to improve where they can). Once the new Lion enclosure is completed it should appear more safari than zoo. Today the park remains one of Zagreb’s most visited tourist attractions, and sees more than its fair share of locals as well. The park offers an almost endless combination of pathways from which you could spend, quite literally, a full day exploring and still not have seen everything. Scattered around the park are over a dozen structures and buildings, all harking back to the park’s creation, and to the first half of the 19th century. While it was once, more or less, restricted to the elite and upper classes, Maksimir Park highlights the ability of the

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authorities, through the centuries, to preserve and maintain the past in a modern and welcoming fashion. For those of a strong sporting nature it is worth noting that the first international water polo match took place here in 1923. The park is not just for nature lovers or followers of 18th/19th century architecture; children are more than welcome here. Conveniently the tram stops right outside, reducing the time little Jane or Johnny has to traipse around before reaching their destination. There are playgrounds within the park, and it’s possible to try your hand at angling or rowing upon one of the lakes. It’s not unexpected to come across groups of street performers, perfecting their arts on one of the numerous green areas, and if you’re lucky enough you might well be able to engage in, or at least witness, some show-jumping.

MGZ Archives, Na jezeru u čamcu

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:15:56

WHAT TO SEE Photo Competition Be Local! Be local! Send us a photo on the theme “I’ll be back in Zagreb” (Vraćam se Zagrebe tebi..) and win one of four brilliant Lufthansa suitcases, perfect as carry-on luggage. Then you’ll be all set to take advantage of Lufthansa’s great prices: fly direct to Berlin for only €49!* For each of the next four issues of Zagreb In Your Pocket, one lucky person will win one of these great prizes. You can even enter all four if you’re feeling lucky! The four competitions run during the following dates:

1. 1 April - 15 May 2012 2. 25 May - 10 July 2012 3. 20 July - 1 September 2012 4. 15 September - 20 October 2012 You can send up to 5 photographs for each competition. An expert jury will carefully evaluate all applications and pick one winner for each of the four competitions. The results will be published in Zagreb In Your Pocket issue nos. 66, 67, 68 and 69, out in June, August, October and December, as well as on the Web page www.inyourpocket.com/country/croatia.

How to Enter

Send your photos to foto.inyourpocket@gmail.com or to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Draškovićeva 66, 10 000 Zagreb , marked “Photo Competition”. Please send the following information with your photos: your name, address, telephone number, e-mail address, name of the photo, and place where the photo was taken. The photographs must be in JPEG (.jpg) format. The minimum resolution of each photograph must be 300 dpi, with a maximum file size of up to 5 MB. The dimensions of the photos must be 30x40cm. You can send your photos by post on a CD or by e-mail.

Conditions of Entry

We’re sorry, but we can’t return CDs sent for the purposes of the competition. The competition organizers will retain the photos on a permanent basis for noncommercial purposes together with the name of the

photographer. Entrants to the competition will be added to the Lufthansa newsletter mailing list. *Berlin for only €49! - one way ticket; all taxes and fees included.

Photo competition Be Local! Mario Radaković’s Autumn in Maksimir is the winning photo in our Be Local competition. The contest, which began in April, has only one round remaining so we urge you to join in because it could be your photo that is published in one of our near future editions. Click! Click!

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 40

zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:16:03

MAIL & PHONES Post

Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL I-6, Utinjska 40, Sveta Klara, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, info.hr@rheagrupa.com, www.rhea.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Global Express outskirts, Stupničke Šipkovine 3, Donji Stupnik, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express. hr, www.global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Hpekspres D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. N UPS F-6, Zastavnice 38a, Hrvatski Leskovac, tel. (+385-1) 460 70 00/(+385-1) 345 45 55, overseas@ overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482

89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N CityEx K-4, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-1) 0800 303 333, info@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express Jelkovečka 5, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455 84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr. In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+3851) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:16:04

GETTING AROUND Public transport

Buses

Zagreb City Museum Archives

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja

Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33,

zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

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Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram. You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at http://www.zet.hr/tramvaj/dnevni.aspx. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn. Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

Taxi Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every kilometer thereafter comes at a charge of 5kn. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats also available but need to be ordered in advance.

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GETTING AROUND Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+3851) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel. (+3851) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside of Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, csa.zag@globairgroup.com, www.globairgroup.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa, tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. Purchasing your ticket, made easier From the comforts of work, home, or for that matter any destination, simply click here to find out about our special offers.QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. A Turkish Airlines D-2, Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1) 492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, tel. (+385-) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing

service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.

Petrol stations 0-24

Daniela Kos

Ina Dubrava, M-1, Dankovečka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 39. Ina Heinzelova, K-3, Ulica Vjekoslava Heinzela 63, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 44. Ina Jagićeva, A-3, Ulica Vatroslava Jagića 31a, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 48. Ina Langov trg, D-2, Trg Josipa Langa 13, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 51. Ina Špansko, F-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 62. Ina Miramarska, C-4, Miramarska bb, tel. (+385 -) 091 497 13 56. Lukoil, H-3, Zagorska 10, tel. (+385-1) 364 35 46. Ina Stupnik East, H-5, Jadranska avenija bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 60.

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October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:16:05

SHOPPING Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-

1) 659 10 50, off ice@avenuemall.com.hr, w w w. avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@ citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin.com. hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 44

zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:16:14

SHOPPING

Art galleries @telier C-2, Ilica 14, www.angels-by-ella.com. Every

angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/ (+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr. Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Art Shops Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz. com. ‘All that is important, comes from within’, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb’s top fashion designers in Bruketa and Žinić. These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. A HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

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Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488

21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.

QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A

Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60

16, mail@multiracionalnakompanija.com, w w w. prostoreshop.com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN

New Look! 10.10 Wednesday - 13.10 Saturday

Dove Fashion.hr D-4, Ex Gredelj Factory, Trnjanska cesta bb, www. fashion.hr. The catwalk will be vibrant at the unique Gredelj Factory with some of the biggest number of prêta-porter collections to date. See what is hot to trot for the Spring-Summer 2013 season according to some of the best Croatian and regional designers such as Ivica Skoko, Branka Donassy, and eNVy room just to name a few.

22.11 Thursday - 24.11 Saturday

Dreft Fashion Week I-4, Hypo Centre, Slavonska avenija 6. World trends showcase seasonal collections in fashion and this is the only International Fashion event of such in Croatia. Stay up to date with the latest designs as collections (spring/ summer 2013) will be shown from a rasping mix of local and foreign designers who have worked in some of the biggest trend setting capitals.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:16:17

SHOPPING Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) C-2,

Tkalčićeva 61. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Delicatessen Caprilo C-2, Bakačeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-42) 39 96

Iris Mihatov Miočić, has been a member of HDLU Zadar and Zagreb since 2007. She is also a member of the art association Zadart. She works with illustrations. She also paints walls in cooperation with AK- Walls.

44. Local dairy specialist Vindija displays its finest in Caprilo delicatessen. This milk-based wonderland provides plenty to taste and enjoy in the heart of the city center. Perfect for a souvenir stop or afternoon snack. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A Franja Coffe & Tea House D/E-2, Vlaška 62, tel. (+385-1) 455 63 91, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja. hr. Exotic tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags. Also at A-2, Ilica24, tel. 483 01 89 and at K-3, Heinzelova 6b, tel. 461 67 44. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com

Second Hand Heaven Dobar zvuk C-3, Preradovićeva 24, tel. (+385-1) 485 47 05. Conveniently close to the city center, this little shop has got a big selection of CDs and DVDs at pocket-change prices. Get your old-school on with 5 kuna cassette tapes or 45’ vinyl from 10 kuna. Try new artists or revisit old in this well-organized music collection spanning all genres and claiming to be Croatia’s largest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 5 kn. Free Bird A-4, Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr. We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection without getting giddy. While the complete catalogue is available online, no digital interface matches the analogue pleasure of letting your fingers walk crate after crate of music covering five decades of all genres and prices starting at 9 kn. Expand your experience of Balkan performers in their regional music section. Misplaced your turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300 kn. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 9 kn. The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 46

Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line. Old School Nights A-2, Britanski trg. Every Thursday evening an exhibition entitled ‘Museum of Old-timer vehicles Ferdinand Budicki’ will be held outdoors. Vintage cars from Zagreb collectors will be displayed with documentaries and photo exhibitions on show; this is one way to reminisce one part of Zagreb’s history.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:16:18

SHOPPING

Galerija Kulin Galović E-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1)

457 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meatlovers oasis! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća piva (Beer House) I-3, Gorjanska 22, tel. (+385-) 091 537 67 70, kucapiva@gmail.com, www.kucapiva. com. Prepare yourself for some hard decision making as there are a staggering 170 different beers from 16 different countries. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Kuća zelenog čaja B-2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, kontakt@kucazelenogcaja. com, www.kucazelenogcaja.com. A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Pasargad C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7 (Importanne Centre), tel. (+385-1) 457 74 37. Offers Iranian products, teas, raisins, sweets, dry fruit and nuts. A true taste from the Middle East! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Pinklec Delicija E-2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. So much more than sustenance, a wealth of Croatian culinary mastery lay only a few minutes from the main square where it fills this speciality delicatessen. Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Brokula&Ž Concept Store

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October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:17:00

LEISURE Skateboarding

Biking

What do you do when you’re mad about surfing but are stuck on the city streets with not a wave in sight? Nail some wheels to your surfboard and - hey presto! You can sculpt your silky skills in style. This is pretty much how the skateboard was born back in 1950s California. Skating took off in a big way in the 1980s, popularised by the laid-back, rebellious demeanour of its aficionados. It has, of course, since spread all over the globe, spawning an entire counter-culture of art, fashion and music. Heroes such as professional skater Tony Hawk have crossed over to virtual reality with computer games making the sport cool even to the most committed couch potatoes. Even back in the 80s when the Iron Curtain did its best to shut off eastern Europe from western cultural influences, the more relaxed regime in Yugoslavia enabled kids to get hold of boards, music and paraphernalia, and the first skate parks were born here. Centres of urban cool such as Zagreb and Split saw armies of scruffily dressed kids perfecting their skills on any available patch of concrete. Skateboarding has often been regarded by polite society as an irritant, as much due to the sport’s affinity with the punk aesthetic as to cheeky skaters whizzing round bemused shoppers on busy precincts. But there’s no denying the audacity of their aerobatic tricks and it can be a spectacular sport to watch. So where can you check out who’s got the best flips in town? Skaters usually gather in open skate-parks at Jarun and Špansko. The only enclosed park is the Warehouse Skatepark where you pay an entry fee. Besides skate-parks, popular hang-outs for skaters are the old mosque (Trg žrtava fašizma), the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Mimara Museum although the latter isn’t as hip as it once was but you’ll still find a few dedicated 4 wheelers. The newest attraction in skate circles is the pool for skating which is situated in the Student’s Centre backyard. This was made by Zagreb skaters, in concrete and purely for skating. Did you know? Norway banned skateboards between 1978 and 1989, due to the risk of injuries. Skaters built forest skate parks to avoid the plod. In its 1999 “Urban Warrior” programme, the US Marine Corps tested skateboards as a means of transport inside buildings to detect tripwires and snipers. Warehouse Skatepark K-4, Slavonska avenija 3. Q Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is slowly becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. The hustle and bustle of cars in the heart of the city as well as having to battle for a car park, isn’t the way to travel. Local government have been proactive in asphalting many of the roads and in doing so, cyclists have been given some extra TLC (tender loving care). Nowadays, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. The markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers alike. Some of the local traffic lights have even been reserved for cyclists. For those seeking a recreational ride then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. Keen punters can rent-a-bike or roller blades at Jarun, just look for the small booth located at the Petrine entrance (small lake). Prices are 20kn per hour and it’s open from 10:30 till 20:00 on weekends and public holidays, weekdays from 15:00 until 20:00. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr. BIC E-2, Tomašićeva 10, tel. (+385-) 095 575 80 56, info@mojbicikl.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr. If you love to get out on the two-wheeler in your spare time, then this educational centre has all the latest information on cycling roads in Zagreb, Croatia and this part of Europe. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Bicycle rental Blue bike, tel. (+385-) 098 188 33 44, info@

zagrebbybike.com, www.zagrebbybike.com. 100kn/ day, 50kn for the rest of the day if you take one of the regular Blue Bike tours. Mondo Bicycles A-2, Ilica 100, inf o@ mondobicycles.com, www.mondobicikli.com. All you need is a document with a photo. 70kn / 6 hours; 100kn / day; 170kn / 2 days. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel. (+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00,

Sat, Sun by request. A

Juraj Špoljar

Zagreb In Your Pocket Zagreb 68-1.indd 48

Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+3851) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr. Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com 5.10.2012. 13:17:14

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GET IN ACTION Jukebox H-3, Lauba-The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Multimedia fuses with interactive performance at the Lauba venue as a specially made Jukebox sculpture unearths everything around you. Visitors place a 20kn token into a coin slot and choose one of 15 songs from the Jukebox sculpture. Your choice of song, as temporary DJ of course, springs to life two dancers who perform to the set music which originates from different countries and styles, making the entire project multicultural. So do visit between 18:00 and 21:00, for this Jukebox rocks! Raw Food Workshops D-1, Elixir- raw food club, Ribnjak 8, tel. (+385-) 091 164 14 85, info@artofrawfood.com, http://www.artofrawfood.com/. Expand your horizons as ‘rawesome’ is awesome! Find out the A to Z of raw food, from preparing tender delicacies to its influence on the body. Four workshops, which make up one cycle, will be held each Saturday between 18.00-21.00. The cycles start on 29.09., 03.11, and 08.12. If you miss one session, you can take it at a later date. Reservations are essential. Costs 260kn per workshop or 890kn for the entire cycle.

Soapmania C-3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 90, www.sapunomanija.com. Create your own soaps - shape them, colour them, scent them! Workshops last for 2 hours and are priced at 130kn. Thursday 04 and 18 October 18:00 - 20:00. A ride on the oldest Zagreb tram. Vintage transport is hard to come by these days but here in Zagreb, each and every Sunday, the oldest city tram from 1924 gets an oil up and embarks on a classical tour around town. You can get your free tickets 10 minutes prior from the museum’s cashier. This 30 minute ride begins at 9.30am and parts from the Dražen Petrović Square, making its last stop in-front of the Technical Museum. You then arrive on time for the guided tour through a ‘mine’ at the Demonstration cabinet of Nikola Tesla. Tram doesn’t ride in case of bad weather. The making of art jewelry courses with Lazer Rok

Lumezi C-1, Lumezi Atelier, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+3851) 492 16 68, atelierlumezi@gmail.com. Art with spark! Express your creative flair with flamboyant Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi whose pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. Ten sessions, each lasting two hours, with all materials and tools provided. Price is 3000kn.

Carting Carting Arena I-5, Zagreb fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15,

Pavilion 35, tel. (+385 -1) 549 44 80, reservation@ karting-arena.com, www.karting-arena.com. The countdown begins with the biggest indoor carting event in Croatia. World carting champion Paolo Gagliardini will ensure top speed entertainment with a 480 meter long race track. You too can join in with gear and carts provided. Pavilion 35 will be smokin….. Q 1

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LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Dry cleaners & Laundries

Language Schools

Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@ berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Emergency health care

Veterinary clinics

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+385-

Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

World Cat Show 2012 27.10 Saturday - 28.10 Sunday H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30. A purr of an event that echoes meow! The Felinological Associations of Croatia (SFDH) is organizing a wide range of breeders, exhibitionists, and the all you need to know for cat lovers.

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story… Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth countr y, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie

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nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia. British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed. Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com.QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

October - November 2012 5.10.2012. 13:19:18

BUSINESS DIRECTORY Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, office@ubli.hr, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,

Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Matoš, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Start a business

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Business connections

Notaries

American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Ana Zagreb Property B-2, Frankopanska 24, tel.

(+385-1) 484 65 40/(+385-) 091 110 51 11, ana@ zagreb-proper ty.com, w w w.zagreb-proper ty.com. Looking for that ideal block of land, house or apartment, then look no further as this real-estate agency has well equipped staff that caters towards your every ‘property’ need. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/ (+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, zagreb.office@en.jll.com, www.joneslanglasalle-croatia.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Maček, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

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STREET REGISTER

Valentina Bunić, Povratak 29. X. 1918. Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2

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Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak

C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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Zagreb 68-1.indd 58

Zagreb 68-1.indd 59

5.10.2012. 13:19:41

Zagreb 68-1.indd 60

5.10.2012. 13:19:48