Zagreb In Your Pocket No85

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb Autumn 2016

Street Art Creative works of freedom

Vintage Zagreb Golden oldies depicting a former era

Film Festivals A must visit to escape those rainy days

N°85 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A word of welcome

Arrival & Getting Around

Sightseeing

6

Shopping

52

We unravel the A to Z of travel

Ready for a shopping spree

Zagreb Basics 10

Hotels

All the things you need to know about Zagreb

The true meaning of “Do not disturb”

Culture & Events

11

Let’s fill up that social calendar of yours

Street Art

18

Restaurants 26 Lunch or dinner, you pick 32

Keep tradition with cuisine

Coffee & Cakes

38

What a pleasure

Nightlife

59

Directory

61

Services you just may need

Murals, graffiti...

Local Flavour

44

Snap, camera, action

40

List of Small Features Autumn Flavours Merging of Gastronomy, Architecture & Art City Centre Shopping Vintage Zagreb

Maps & Index Street Register Transport Map City Centre Map City Map

32 50 57 58 63 63 64-65 66

Bop ‘till you drop

Pin Up Girls, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives “Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance and even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Than see page 58.

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Foreword Autumn is well and truly upon us and so are the reddish and brownish leaves which cover city parks as kids rattle, kick and throw bundles and bundles of leaves in the air.

And don’t forget, this time of year offers many reasons to head out before the major cold zips in. To enrich your calendar, do see the exhibitions, concerts, special events... and a series of jazz concerts to make you jazzily jovial. In this issue you can expect an interesting story about street art with interviews by leading street art artists whose works are changing vistas of rundown buildings and in some way communicate more than just a picture to passers-by. Also, for all lovers of the past, ‘Vintage’ is the key adjective in this edition with a tribute to Vintage Zagreb and the festival with the same name, not to mention the Festival of Silent Film that you can visit this Autumn. We will also look at other places in Zagreb that exude a vintage vibe and take you to a different time. So as you venture out, discover some of the city’s hidden treasures and btw, feel free to send us any feedback on our IYP Guide Zagreb so that we can make it even better…

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., published 4 times per year

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Autumn 2016

COVER STORY

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

Street Art

Creative works of freedom

Vintage Zagreb

Golden oldies depicting a former era romantic legends

“Tribe” a mural by Artez, at Zagreb’s Student Centre. More about Zagreb’s street art and the artists responisble on page 18.

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Community Manager Eli Gajinov Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Višnja Aramabšić, “Tribe” a mural by Artez Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac

Film Festivals

A must visit to escape those rainy days

N°85 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket. com

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

6 Zagreb In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB (MZLZ)) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagrebairport.hr.

The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car.

BY BUS

View from the Zagreb 360° - Zagreb eye observation deck, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

BY PLANE Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town.

Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.

Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing room, but do note that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals.

Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

8 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića.

There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/ hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn.

MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, www.akz.hr.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

BY TRAIN Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk 00 through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticket5 060 ing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit 5 the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each 5 piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from 10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard price for tickets.

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MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TRAMS & BUSES Getting around town is made all the much easier via the 00 you city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take

TOURIST INFORMATION

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TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića5 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

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ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić.

The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores.

Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr.

THE SLJEME BUS LINE The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac Stop and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Stop, six times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

BIKING

20% off on first ride ordered through app

Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www.zagrebbybike. com, www.nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city

QR CODE

www.ekotaxi.hr 10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

This QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/zagreb for Zagreb In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want.

Photo by Marša Gajinov

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala. hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

CAR RENTAL Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK roadside assistance service at (+385) 1987.

PARKING STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use

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your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beadyeyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

TAXIS EKO TAXI QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 04 55, www.ekotaxi.hr.

RADIO TAKSI ZAGREB QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/ (+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.

TAXI CAMMEO Qtel. (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxicammeo.hr.

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Zagreb Basics CUSTOMS

TOILETS

There are no longer custom limits between member states of the EU or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

VISAS

ELECTRICITY

All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

TIPPING Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany March 27 Easter March 28 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Romeo and Juliet, Photo by Marko Ercegović, HNK Archives

Culture & Events IT’S RAINING WITH CULTURAL EVENTS: EXHIBITIONS, CONCERTS, SPECIAL EVENTS, FILM FESTIVALS, JAZZ CONCERTS.

Culture & Events a distinguished classical guitarist and student of the Royal Academy in London who won first prize at the prestigious competition Francisco Tarrega. He is joined by the brilliant young pianist and flutist Ana Dadić.QC‑1, The Golden Hall of the Croatian Institute of History, Opatička 10.

OPERA 21.10, 24.10, 26.10 19:30 » GIOACHINO ROSSINI THE BARBER OF SEVILLE Rossini’s most popular opera delivers amazing performances by Manuela Custer as the spirited Rosina.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 88, www.hnk.hr.

14.11 19:30 » FAUST AND OPERA GALA Charles Gounod’s ‘Faust’ is the opera which brings together a star studded line up that includes the devoted Finnish conductor Ville Metvejeff together with the Opera Orchestra of the Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka. With rave reviews, commendations also go to mezzo-soprano Diana Haller and the great Finnish soprano Marjukka Tepponen amongst others.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 200 - 260kn, www.lisinski.hr.

Rudolf Matz, Zagreb City Museum Archives

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 07.10 - 15.10 » ZAGREB KOM 11 - THE 11TH ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL Fit for the occasion, the most beautiful halls of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts will host six thematically conceived concerts featuring greats from Bach to Mozart and others. Come and hear exceptional interpretations performed by world musicians and ensembles that will amplify music taken from baroque authors to contemporary authors.Q The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters HAZU, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11; National Hall Revival Stateroom, Opatička 18; The Glyptotheque, Medvedgradska 2, www.zagreb-festival.org.

22.10 19:30 » THE TOKYO SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA One of Japan’s finest orchestras is set to shine at the Lisinski Hall as its members will be joined by the famous German violinist Isabelle Faust and English Conductor Jonathan Nott. The trifecta of artists will perform works from Beethoven and Shostakovich.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 160 - 240kn.

26.10 » SRĐAN BULAT AND ANA DADIĆ - GOLDEN ZAGREB: “SPECIAL GLOW CONCERTS” - AN EXCLUSIVE CYCLE OF CONCERTS Two young guns hit the spotlight as they fuse their talents to create a magical night of acoustic music. Srđan Bulat is 14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

03.12 19:30 » MARINA REBEKA Undoubtedly one of the leading sopranos of our time, Latvian born Marina Rebeka is about the grace the Lisinski stage with her repertoire of class epochs from Mozart to Verdi, and Rossini to Tchaikovsky. She is joined by the Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 200 - 260kn, www. lisinski.hr.

BALLET & DANCE 11.10 19:30, 14.10 19:30, 19.10 19:30, 22.10 18:00 » SERGEJ SERGEJEVIČ PROKOFJEV - PATRICE BART: ROMEO AND JULIET Romeo and Juliet is a ballet by Sergej Sergejevič Prokofjev, which is based on William Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet and tells the tragic tale of lovers from Verona.

Prokofjev’s musical interpretation of the play has inspired many generations of choreographers and directors. In this presentation of one of the world’s most famous love stories, the choreography will be directed by Patrice Bart.

QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 88, www.hnk.hr.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 14.10 20:00 » THE BAMBI MOLESTERS Few Croatian rock bands could truly be said to be masters of their genre. More often than not, local acts end up sounding like Croatian versions of something done better elsewhere. The one exception to this rule is surf-punk band The Bambi Molesters, an act so steeped in offbeat zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Americana that they frequently do a better job of setting it to music than the Americans themselves. The Molesters were certainly Croatia’s most internationally exposed band in the early 2000s, supporting REM on European tour dates and gaining international distribution for their albums.QB‑4, Kset, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, 50 70kn, www.kset.org.

15.10 » TULUM! HLADNO PIVO, BRKOVI, ŠANK?!

It’s hard’n’heavy, and the third edition of the ‘Tulum’ series of gigs brings together some of the top punk-rock acts Croatia has to offer on the opening night. Local legends ‘Hladno Pivo’ headline with their smashing array of hits as they are supported by punk folk quintet Brkovi and the punk rock quartet Šank?!. It’s time for moshing mania!QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 70 - 90kn.

21.10, 22.10 20:00 » S.A.R.S. Founded in 2006, this popular Belgrade group has already gained an army of followers with their mixture of different musical genres such as reggae, ska, hip hop, and traditional Serbian music.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 90 - 120kn.

22.10, 26.10 » THE 17TH ŽEDNO UHO FESTIVAL A stalwart of the city scene is ‘Žedno Uho Festival’ which has always given fans a taste of unbiased music as it has facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

promoted jazz, rock, folk, electronic music and more.

Organisers have in recent years established side festivals such as Šibenik’s Terraneo and Super Uho in the coastal town of Primošten. American indie rock band Explosions In The Sky kick off the festival and American experimental rock band Swans conclude it along with Swedish pianist and singer Anna von Hausswolff.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15.

29.10 20:00 » VATRA Vatra, which means fire, is a Croatian rock band best known for their hit song, Tremolo, that won them the Porin, a Croatian music award, in 2012. Don’t miss out on seeing this burning hot group.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 120 - 180kn, www.lisinski.hr.

04.11 » GENERAL WOO One of Croatia’s well known rap artists is Srđan Ćuk, nicknamed General Woo. He hails from the city of Vukovar and has been in the music scene since 1999. Ćuk is so passionate about rap and hip-hop that he hosts his own radio show and organises festivals. With his die hard and devoted fans, General Woo will ignite the stage at Tvornica Kulture this November.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 30 - 50kn, www.

Ruta Cres, Photo by Igor Njhausler tvornicakulture.com.

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Culture & Events 09.11 » JUSTIN BIEBER Definitely one of the biggest events of the year, Justin Bieber heads to Arena Zagreb in what will be a night to remember for all of his devoted’ belieber’ fans. Having performed at sold out shows all over the world, his European tour begins in Iceland. Get ready for ‘Where are U now’, ‘Sorry’, ‘Baby’ and his multitudes of hits played live with an entire entourage of dancers and stage performers joining him.QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, tel. (+385-1) 642 09 00.

10.11 » PLACEBO Two decades have flown by quickly for Placebo and these English musicians are getting into full swing for their new tour. With seven studio albums behind them, vocalist Brian Molko has confessed that the band will play a lot of their classics, some of which they haven’t touched in years, and something that will hearten all fans of the band, new and old.QA‑4, Dražen Petrović Concert Hall, Savska 30, tel. (+385-1) 484 33 33, 199 - 269kn.

14.11 21:00 » MERCHANDISE This US post-punk outfit cannot be truly categorised as their music also includes jazz, dub and hardcore elements.

Their LP ‘After the End’ received excellent reviews in 2014 as has their recent release ‘A Corpse Wired for Sound’ which is the reason for their soon to begin European tour.

QI‑3, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, 55 - 80kn, www.mochvara.hr.

17.11 21:00 » RUSSIAN CIRCLES Named after a drill exercise in ice-hockey, this American three-piece instrumental band from Chicago echo the post-rock genre having played with the likes of Tool, Boris, and etc. In their return to Zagreb, the gents will be supported by recognised composer and cellist Alison Chesley, better known as Helen Money.QI‑4, Vintage Industrial Bar, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, 65 - 100kn.

Detour

19.11 21:00 » DETOUR This critically acclaimed six-member musical group from Zagreb is famous for their very distinctive electro-acoustic pop sound that has, throughout the years, earned them numerous nominations for the prestigious Croatian Porin Music Awards.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 50 - 90kn, www.tvornicakulture. com.

26.11 » SKYE & ROSS FROM MORCHEEBA Call it a Morcheeba side-project; band members Skye Edwards and Ross Godfrey have teamed up to further extend their musical talents. These Brits return to their roots a little while exploring other genres but fear not, Morcheeba’s finest hits will still form the bulk of their set list. This will be their 2nd gig in Croatia this year, and their first in Zagreb.

QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 130 - 150kn, www.tvornicakulture.com.

09.12 21:30 » NATALI DIZDAR One of Croatia’s finest pop singers, Dizdar is known for her vocal talents having released several chart topping hits in the space of a decade. With pop-jazz as her forte, Dizdar is about to embark on a new journey with her very own solo concert. Accompanied by top musicians and long-time collaborators, she will present her new single and most famous songs.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 70kn.

EXHIBITIONS

Merchandise, Photo by Drew Reynolds

16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

21.04 - 31.12 » SEARCHING FOR SHAKESPEARE IN MIMARA In the global project Shakespeare Lives–as organised by the British Council, the exhibition concept is made of a variety of items from the permanent exhibition of the museum which through a multimedia Smart Guide in Croatian and English, uses smart phones and Samsung tablets to encourage visitors to search and detect Shakespeare in the Mimara Museum. It’s a bit like Pokémon Go, Shakespeare style!QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 01.06 - 23.10 » MOLECULES THAT CHANGED THE WORLD An inspirational insight into the chemistry of all known molecules, molecules that are changing our lives, culture and society today! The centrepiece of the exhibition consists of a 3D projection of 25 molecules that have affected the development of chemistry and science in general.

Scientific, terrific!QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnickimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. 07.09 - 26.10 » BACHRACH & KRIŠTOFIĆ - DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY Celebrating a thirty-five year working relationship between a photographer and a designer; this tandem has worked in fields such as royalty, the record industry, and the history of design, pop culture and popular art. See photos and cover art for recordings produced by Jugoton and Croatia Records, as well as posters, books, catalogues, fanzines, and the visual identity for various cultural projects, exhibitions, art and theatre performances.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. 08.09 - 21.10 » KRISTINA LEKO HOW THE PEOPLE LIVE? An interdisciplinary art project based on the book ‘How the people live?’ by Rudolf Bičanić, 1936. The author of the exhibit, Kristina Leko, brings to life the book and its characters, eight ordinary Croatian families living in passive and fairly poor localities. The museum is transferred to a real life village portraying each person, the floor plan of each household, the building of one home in its entirety, original documentation and an emphasis on the economic and social dependence of the times, and its psychological effect. A travel back to a time long gone…QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) Papaya 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 19.09 - 18.12 » RUDOLF MATZ GREAT OPUS OF JOY On the occasion of the 115th anniversary of his birth, we pay tribute to Rudolf Matz and his wife Margita, a legendary music couple whose apartment at Mesnička Street 15 became a meeting place for people in music and cultural circles. The exhibition, conceived as a monograph presents his versatile artistic personality and love for music.

QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. 20.09 - 08.01 » ALBERTO GIACOMETTI: SCULPTURE, DRAWINGS, LITHOGRAPHS - PORTRETS OF THE PRESENT In the series ‘The greatest sculptors of the 20th century’, the next virtuoso on the agenda is Alberto Giacometti. Visfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

itors to the Art Pavilion will have the unique opportunity in seeing around twenty drawings, as many lithographs and sculptures borrowed from the French Foundation ‘Maeght’. His acclaimed works, ‘Thin People’, ‘Women in Venice’ and ‘The Man Who Walks’ will all be on show.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 22.09 - 20.10 » MUNIR VEJZOVIĆ - EMBRACE OF EROTICISM AND PLASTIC This monographic exhibition by painter Munir Vejzović exposes eighty of his paintings and sculptures created over the last ten years. This extremely respectable cycle of new paintings includes large oil paintings in which the artist explores the erotic sense of physicality in the contemporary postmodern multitude of their appearances.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. 26.09 - 11.12 » THE TREASURE OF THE MIDDLE AGES See the most precious artefacts from the National Archaeological Museum in Warsaw used in the early Middle Ages.

The exhibition will display rings, necklaces, pendants, earrings, hair ornaments, bracelets, glass ornaments, belt buckles and crosses. A special place is intended for jewellery from the beautiful hoard - mid 11th century and found in Borucin, central Poland.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. 27.09 - 23.10 » THE BEAUTY OF A FAKE SHINE In what is deemed as criminal, we now have an exhibition of art; counterfeit art! The Police Museum has opened its doors and presents fifty-three paintings and four sculptures by some of our most astute artists including Dušan Džamonja, Edo Murtić, Ljubo Ivančić and others.

See oil paintings and prints analysed by art historians, artists, and academic critics, works that have been tested in forensic labs for true authenticity.QI‑3, The Headquarters of the Ministry of the Interior, Savska cesta 39, www. policija.hr.

Battleme

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Culture & Events 16.10 » STEREOTIP The popular music project Stereotip returns for the fifth time and will be held on a Sunday afternoon, starting at 16:00 o’clock. The Zagreb-Berlin duo of famous producers and DJs -Felvera and Dixon organise the event and turn various city venues into dance floors. Electronic tears are bound to be coming your way.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10.

Stereotip Archives

17.10 - 31.12 » MEŠTART - TANJA RAVLIĆ, ARRIVAL In this exhibition Tanja Ravlić thematises the arrival at the wellspring, as well as her attitude to the spaces that formed her. With her works, Tanja Ravlić, only in places, but entirely consistently, overlaps with given themes of Meštrović. It is with the very free connections that she emphasises the essentiality of the cyclical renewal of a phase of life and creativity. Meštrović, more than most artists or individuals, accepted the challenges and risks of the tumultuous periods in history and his personal life, setting an indelible stamp on them with his inexhaustible artistry.QB‑1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www. mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon. 09.11 - 23.11 » ZAGREB SALON - EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOTOCLUB ZAGREB Photo Club Zagreb primarily organises the Zagreb Salon, an international exhibition of photography that began tradition in 1910. The exhibition is convened every two years with 300 - 400 mostly amateur photographers from different countries around the world participating. Now it’s time to see over hundred photographs mostly by winning authors.QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon.

SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS EVENTS

13.10 - 16.10 » THE 6TH GANZ NEW FESTIVAL THE RAGING FESTIVAL This year’s topic is ‘rage’, and what we can do to either enrage rage, or tame it. In what is an extraordinary festival; national and international performers, musicians and artists offer free theatre and dance performances, plays, art installations, workshops and uncompromising DJ dance nights. See how to flush out negative emotions, or attend a screaming metal yoga workshop... And that’s just the beginning!QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, tel. (+385-1) 459 35 55, ganznovi.sczg.hr.

18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

11.11 20:00 » BRIT FLOYD Progressive rock tribute masters to the British icons Pink Floyd continue their world tour as they perform the very best songs that Pink Floyd has to offer. Enter a journey through 50 years of music history including hits from albums like ‘The Dark Side of the Moon’, ‘Wish You Were Here’, ‘Animals’, ‘The Wall’ and more.QI‑4, Boćarski dom Zrinjevac, Prisavlje 2, 75 - 690kn.

18.11 20:00 » QUEEN SHOW - THE SHOW MUST GO ON - THE BOHEMIANS In the year and month in which we celebrate twentyfive years since the death of Freddie Mercury, tribute act ‘Queen Show’ will put on a bombastic audiovisual performance playing many of their chart topping masterpieces. The Polish Symphony Orchestra will also join them on stage adding a classical element to the show. Who will rock you? Queen will rock you!QI‑4, Boćarski dom Zrinjevac, Prisavlje 2, 100 - 160kn.

19.11 » EUROPEAN THEATRE NIGHT One evening in the year dedicated to the dramatic and performing arts, European Theatre Night is celebrated in most major Croatian Theatres. It’s night when theatres come alive with the buzz of meetings, conversation and new ideas both among theatre professionals and the audience. Exchange programmes are held, familiarising the Croatian public with the treats that European theatre hold and promoting the Croatian dramatic arts abroad.Qwww.noc-kazalista.com.

26.11 - 08.01 » ADVENT IN ZAGREB The beginning of Advent sees a transformation of the town with Christmas lights glowing, Christmas stands encompassing authentic souvenirs, mauled wine, sausages and traditional fritule (hot like doughnut balls seasoned with icing sugar and other toppings).

Qwww.adventzagreb.hr/en/.

02.12 » THE 12TH POSITIVE CONCERT The name says it all; purely positive is the msg here with strong regional performers (Bajaga & Instruktori, Josipa Lisac, Rundek Cargo Trio & Luce). The event traditionally commemorates World AIDS Day and happens to be one of the regarded events at this time of year.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, 70 - 90kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events FILM 01.01 - 31.12 » SUBTITLED TUESDAY Every Tuesday, screenings at Cinema Europa’s main hall have English and Croatian subtitles side by side. This is a chance for our growing international audience in the unique setting of Zagreb’s 90-year-old cinema on Varšavska 3, to see our non-English-speaking regular releases on the big screen.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45, www.kinoeuropa. hr. Every Tuesday.

11.10 - 17.10 » 23RD WEEK OF CZECH FILM You can’t ignore tradition with the 23rd edition of Czech Film opening at the Europa Cinema as it is well known that the love between the home audience and Cinematography is a growing affair. This year screenings include six highly selected achievements of recent Czech cinema, including the Czech candidate for the Oscars, ‘Home Care’ by Slávek Horák.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45, www. kinoeuropa.hr.

12.11 - 20.11 » THE 14TH ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Film fans fire up as for the fourteenth consecutive year, ZFF brings the freshest and most interesting debutant amateur films to the screen. Carefully selected films from the most diverse achievements of European and world cinema appear; don’t forget that there will be plenty of side programs for additional fun.Q Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 and other locations, www. zagrebfilmfestival.com.

Atrium of Arts and Crafts Museum, Stereotip Archives

Josipa Lisac, The Positive Concert Archives

JAZZ & BLUES 20.10 - 22.10 » JAZZ.HR/AUTUMN A mega line up over 3 days which includes none other than Justin Kauflin and his trio, the jazz piano gem was voted ‘Jazz Artist of the Year’ in VEER Magazine and now works along the legendary Quincy Jones.

Vesna Pisarović is a Croatian pop and jazz singer with a forte for jazz jive, and finally the Pawel Kaczmarczyk Audiofeeling Trio perform considering that their album ‘Complexity in Simplicity’ was voted as album of the year by many Jazz forum readers.QB‑3, Blagoje Bersa Concert Hall, Academy of Music, University of Zagreb, Trg maršala Tita 12, www.jazz.hr.

08.11 » TAMARA OBROVAC TRANSHISTRIA ENSEMBLE Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvisation and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediterranean music, thus creating a unique artistic expression.

QC‑2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, 90 - 110kn, www.tamaraobrovac.com. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Bachrach and Krištofić - Mario Krištofić, Gojko Tomljanović, Massimo, Photo by Vedran Benović

24.11 » ŠIMUN MATIŠIĆ & MATIJA DEDIĆ GOLDEN ZAGREB: “SPECIAL GLOW CONCERTS” - AN EXCLUSIVE CYCLE OF CONCERTS Talented young vibraphonist Šimun Matišić is following in the footsteps of the legendary Boško Petrović and performs in a duo with the one and only Matija Dedić, a renowned Croatian jazz pianist. This dynamic duo ought to dazzle with their eloquent musicianship fused into one.

QC‑1, The Golden Hall of the Croatian Institute of History, Opatička 10.

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“Oh, Barbie” by Lonac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Street Art EXCELLENT STREET ART CONTRIBUTES TO ZAGREB AS AN EXCITING HOME FOR ART AND CULTURE AND IS PROOF OF THE UNIQUE URBAN IDENTITY, ENERGY AND INDIVIDUALISM OF THE CITY.

Street Art CREATIVE WORKS OF FREEDOM Turn a corner in Zagreb and you’re increasingly likely to come face to face with a piece of amazing street art that makes you stop and catch your breath with admiration.

Transporting you for a moment out of your daily routine, it suddenly makes you think or makes you laugh.

What is street art? The first association is with graffiti. But as the artists we’ll meet here show, this is very far from the mindless, destructive scrawls many people think of when they hear the word “graffiti”. Street artists, in the true sense can create powerful images that challenge our perceptions, make us think and astonish with their sheer visual audacity.

Street artists have created a stir worldwide with provoking works that question political and social injustice. Street art is fusing with and inspiring mainstream art forms and these days work by street artists can come with a high price tag. These are artists who work in diverse media, who show in galleries and across borders, sharing ideas and collaborating on projects with artists from around the world.

Zagreb has had a street art scene since the 1980s starting with a big project for the Universiade in 1987 when the long mural alongside the railway tracks on Branimirova street was first painted. It was re-painted in 1999 to celebrate the Day Against Drug Abuse, and again in 2010 when the mural became a part of Zagreb’s Museum of Street Art, which includes works scattered around the Novi Zagreb neighbourhoods of Siget, Dugave and Utrine. The project is continuously growing to encompass and enliven other parts of the city.

Excellent street art contributes to Zagreb as an exciting home for art and culture and is proof of the unique urban identity, energy and individualism of the city.

So let’s meet some of the magicians of paint and brush whom are contributing to brightening up Zagreb.

Introduce yourself! How would you define yourself?

As an artist? Street artist? Something else?

Artez: My name’s Artez, I have a degree in architecture, but I’m a street artist by profession and muralist from Belgrade.

Bare: I’d define myself as someone who does what he loves, but also as an artist, street artist, organizer, etc. I like being around people and working on the street because that’s how the whole story begins and it’s accessible to everyone.

Dominik: I would present myself as an illustrator and painter; while I’m just getting into street art, I’ve worked on four murals and only one of them independently.

Modul: I began my career as a graffiti artist, then spent some time as a sign painter, then doing calligraphy, street art, it’s all there! :D Stipan: Hi! I’m Stipan Tadić, painter, illustrator, muralist and draughtsman from Zagreb. I finished my studies at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb in 2011, and since then I’ve been working here and there as an independent artist. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Where does your tag name come from?

Artez: My name comes from the time when I was tagging walls illegally and I needed to hide my identity. That need has been lost over time but the combination of letters I found interesting from back then have remained.

Bare: I got it from my mom, hahaha!

Dominik: It’s from my mom and dad, although my grandpa wanted to call me Grga, which would have been awesome! :D But Stipan called me Domingo about seven years ago and so that’s what my friends call me now.

Stipan: It’s from the Dalmatian hinterland!

How did it all begin, and how is it today?

Artez: It all began with a passion for drawing and it’s continued to this day. I often changed my styles and fields of interest, but the love of interacting with public spaces over the years has remained. I think the biggest change in my city has been to do with the dimensions of the drawing space - the older I get, the bigger the walls get.

Bare: It started back in school writing on desks and notebooks. The first spray paint can I picked up was in the seventh grade and I started doing graffiti, and scribbling everywhere. Today I’m completely against it because I live off of my work, and I think there are other ways of expressing yourself than scribbling and destroying property. Persistence is one of the most important things for this job.

Dominik: In elementary school I realized that I wasn’t interested in school and discovered that I was going to do something creative ... I even wanted to be a chef for a while! I started with tables and eventually built up some experience, techniques, ideas, and nature took its course.

Modul: When I started there wasn’t much in terms of material, and if there was it was expensive and of poor quality.

So I started to mix my own water-based sprays that would be quickly washed away by the rain. Today the situation is such that everything’s available and in any colour your heart desires.

Stipan: I don’t know what you mean by “all”. But I think I started to draw when I was three or four years-old and I haven’t stopped. Everything has stayed mostly the same except for new techniques that I started to use, such as murals, oil on canvas...

What’s the first thing you do in the morning?

Artez: Like all millennials, the first thing I check is Instagram so I can be up to date with current events from the world of street art. The rest of the morning depends on what city I’m in and the kind of project I’m currently working on.

Bare: I have a large collection of records, so I start my morning off with music; then I do everything else.

Dominik: First I drink a glass of water; sometimes I add a spoonful of honey. Or I drink a smoothie - I like that more than breakfast.

Stipan: I make and drink kefir.

In all forms of art, inspiration is crucial. What inspires you?

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Street Art

“Digital Love Story” by Stipan Tadić, Photo by Igor Nobilo for Konzum Klik

Artez: I draw inspiration mostly from the location and environment in which the mural will be. Based on this, I create the composition and colour palette. The themes present on the wall very often come from the environment, but also from characters, and often emotional moments that life brings. Often what I draw on the wall is not something that I’m initially able to clearly define, but it eventually becomes clear as to why I drew it at that time.

Bare: Life stories, music, something that I have experienced, something I love, something that interests me.

Since Miro and I often work together, and now that we’ve been involving Dominik, we inspire each other.

Dominik: Other people’s work has a significant impact on what I do. I like to talk about the creative process and generally about painting, illustration, or any kind of expression. For the most part, I want my work and drawings to tell a story.

Modul: Everyday life inspires me. One day you might be sad, but produce the best work possible; while another day you’re so happy you can’t even get started.

Stipan: I’m inspired by other artists - but most of all I’m driven by the fear of homelessness!

Tell us something about your art, does it include symbolisms, messages or repeated patterns. What’s your favourite piece of work?

Artez: I try to customize my work to the environment in which it is located, and thus contribute to improving the quality of the spaces in which we live. I guess that’s a need that I developed while I studied architecture and now that would be hard to give up. My favourite piece this year is 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

definitely the mural “What is and what will be,” that I did in Užice. Of course, the portrait of my dog Iuna will always be in a class of its own!

Bare: In addition to my works on walls, I have to mention the PIMP MY PUMP project that I succeeded in introducing. It began on a neighbourhood level - then on a citywide level - with the reconstruction of old abandoned Zagreb water pumps, which put a smile on your face with pleasant childhood memories. With this came the revival of the old park on the border of the Upper and Lower Towns, and terminated with the finial product which is the Art Park. Painting hospitals, fundraising projects and workshops, that’s all me and my art.

Dominik: I do illustrations and for now that’s my favourite work so far; my art thesis, which isn’t the best, but I did invest lots of time and effort. Even today it’s something that reminds me of the things I need to work on and how I want to develop.

Modul: Letters are my art: the art of beautifully drawn calligraphy is what I like to paint. There are no hidden symbols, they’re just stylized letters that I like to be as readable and as decorative as possible. Each piece of work is interesting, and although there are some I’m not fully satisfied with, I don’t have a favourite. The piece I do tomorrow is always my favourite! : D Stipan: It depends on the series, the project itself, and what stage it’s in. Somehow I can’t take everything I’ve done and put it all in one basket, but yes, I use elements from all of them. My favourite piece is the mural in Dugave, ‘The Arrival of Blacks in Dugave’ because it predicted the future. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street Art What’s the hardest part while doing a new piece of art? How do you pick a location?

Artez: The hardest part is definitely the beginning: creating the appropriate composition, choosing the colour palette and matching the theme of the mural with the environment.

Once the conceptual design is complete, the creation of the piece may be physically difficult, but for me it doesn’t present much of a problem. As far as the location is concerned, I’ve lately been fortunate enough that the place chooses me and not the other way around. Otherwise, I like to draw in abandoned and dilapidated factories - walls where the ravages of time have left its mark are to me very inspiring.

Bare: The most difficult thing is negotiating the price of a commercial piece of work. And in terms of the work itself, the hard part is setting up and the preparation until the actual fun part begins. While walking through the city I don’t look down or at my cell phone, I study everything around me (the buildings and walls) and when I see something abandoned, decrepit - like the former Art Park - I get ideas about what I could do.

Dominik: I think it’s the same like in all forms of art, and that’s coming up with a viable idea. The sketch, format, medium and technique are all steps that come later and tie together with the idea. The location is anywhere my friends call me to. :D Modul: The hardest part is setting it all up and paining the wall with the background colour. Everything after that is fun! The wall simply catches my eye. And if it’s a special location I try to get in contact with the owners and get permission to carry out my idea.

Stipan: The problem is that I’m not exclusively a street artist; therefore the walls choose me - and not the other way around. I simply get invited by organizers to take part in festivals where I’m presented with a wall. But now, for the first time I want to start choosing my own walls, so I think I’ll have to do that soon.

Street Art is a visually stimulating form of art. If you could add another element, what music would you pick to accompany your work?

Artez: Right now it would be one of David August’s mixes.

Bare: Pink Floyd.

Dominik: Of all the musical genres, I somehow always come back to Blues - which for me is particularly endearing: it’s simple and very narrative; it tells a story that inspires me. I really like the period between the 50’s and 70’s, especially Little Walter for his harmonica (which I also play) and Lightnin’ Hopkins.

Modul: Music is always necessary when I work and I love Rock the most.

Stipan: I’ve never thought about that. But maybe it’d be classical music from the Impressionist period.

Which cities inspire you the most?

Artez: Cities for me have become very boring, so I rarely get inspiration from them. I’d say I get more inspiration from the people I meet during my travels, whether that be in cities or not. Definitely my biggest inspiration is nature: plants, and the colours that appear in the sky during sunrise and sunset.

Bare: Mostly Zagreb. But I like to travel, so every year I try to go on a journey somewhere to expand my horizons a bit and along the way I get some inspiration.

Dominik: I’ve never sought inspiration from the city itself, but more through friends in Zagreb. I associate romance with cities like New York, Berlin…

Modul: Of course, Zagreb! I’m glad that Zagreb has a lot of artists now. We’re very diverse and everyone has their own style with lots of room to develop. There aren’t imitators who want to be like someone else, each artist is an individual with their own space.

Stipan: Berlin, Moscow, Paris.

“Sea Turtle” by Etien, Photo by Marša Gajinov

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Street Art

“Selfie with three crows” by Dominik Vuković

What’s the first thing that comes into people’s minds when they see your work on the streets?

Artez: Haha, I can’t speak for everyone, but I’m sure some of them say, ‘Look! It’s that fern-man again!’, probably because of the floral motifs which I’ve recently been incorporating in my work.

Bare: For now I’ve had more positive reactions than negative ones because of my work on abandoned buildings, so the final result is something that immediately cheers people up. I’m more disappointed myself with some of my work because I think I can do a lot better.

Dominik: Well, I don’t see them much, hahaha. I did a solo piece called ‘The Birds of Zagreb’, and I don’t know what people think when they see it. But while I was doing it they’d show interest as they walked by - which I thought was cool.

Modul: I most often get positive comments, like: ‘Wow, that’s nice!’ or ‘Awesome! The wall was terrible, now it’s finally beautiful.’ Realistically, the people who would com24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

plain have nothing to say because you’re doing something positive for the community - regardless of the fact that you’re promoting yourself - the final product is for everyone.

Stipan: I’d love it if it made them smile, but I don’t know to what extent I achieve that.

How long do your works last on the street? How do you react when you see that someone has defaced your work (if that happens)?

Artez: It all depends on the particular location - there really is no rule. I came to the realization a long time ago that street art isn’t a permanent thing, so I don’t have a problem when other people manipulate my work. Once the work is done it stops belonging to me and belongs to everyone; so if someone wishes to ruin it they have just as much right to do so as I did in drawing it.

Bare: There are lost of pieces that have remained untouched to this day - in Trešnjevka there’s a piece in a park zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street Art

“Bless from the past” by Lonac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Stipan: I’d be upset, but of the 5-6 years I’ve been doing murals most of my work has survived.

PIMP MY PUMP Archives

on Adžijina St. that’s not been untouched in 3-4 - and there’s no problem if someone draws something beside it. The situation like the one on Branimir pains me a bit where a mural that takes 2-3 days to do gets spray-painted on and disfigured in a few seconds. But when you’re doing work on the street you know that it’s not forever and will eventually fade away.

Dominik: It’s still there :D Modul: Some are still around today after years and years, and some survive half an hour because there are vandals and of all the walls in the city they choose yours as the one to mark up. When I finish a work I take a photo for my album, if it happens to be late I come back the next morning and after that whatever happens, happens. We had a situation in Mostar where overnight they tagged over our freshly completed wall which we had to fix up the next morning; of course, later the guys felt bad and apologized.

When you work on the street you have to expect things like that. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Are there artists whom you admire, and why?

Artez: I admire musicians most of all because for me it’s incomprehensible that someone can trap energy as sound. Music influences my mood and the inspiration I get from it is reason enough to believe that some musicians are from another planet.

Bare: There are many of them who do great things but I don’t know who I’d specifically like to mention.

Dominik: I’ve got so many I can’t count, but it changes depending on my momentary interests and needs. I look at them as mentors I can learn something from. From some of them it may only be a word about technique that I hadn’t thought about before but which I can now notice in my work.

Modul: Each artist has his own artist. I’ve been inspired by Salvador Dali since childhood. As for street art artists there are a million and I follow all of them on social networks and so I’m up to date with their work which I think’s great.

Stipan: Of course, I always admire relaxedness, versatility, directness, unpretentiousness, sense of space, emotion and composition, and performance skills.

What other passions do you have besides for art?

Artez: I love to travel, cook and eat; so if I get to blend all three together and spice it up with drawing, my happiness would know no bounds.

Autumn 2016

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Street Art Modul at work

Bare: Traveling and snowboarding. Basically I like to be outside in nature as much as possible.

Dominik: I like biking the most, but also sports and physical activity in general. Like how books are for the soul, sports feed the body.

Modul: I was a pro Skateboarder, and I generally love all sports. Besides football, I like to fish, ping pong is fun, I like to play card games like Bela, I like everything that young people like: D Stipan: My biggest hobby is biking.

Where do you see the whole street art movement in ten, twenty years?

Artez: Computers - I think with the development of technology will come new tools that will allow artists to create huge works art from the comfort of their own homes (or maybe from armchairs placed in front of the wall). Some pioneering attempts using drones to draw on walls have already been made. And there are already rumours regarding the development of large printers that will be able to “print” murals on buildings. Of course, artists who make street art using traditional methods will always be around, but the development of new technology will definitely affect their lives.

Bare: Somehow I feel like it’s at its peak. There’s a hype surrounding street art now, but I have no idea how things will continue to develop. It’s great to see that finally people and institutions have begun to accept the street art movement.

Dominik: On a higher level, of course, street art and murals have been around for a long time but I think that it’s still in its infancy, and in my opinion for development there needs to be more planning.

Stipan: It will go into manirism and collapse; at best, the last jolt will produce something new + of course the “oldschoolers” will continue to do graffiti.

As an artist, do you feel any responsibility towards society?

Artez: I feel an obligation to remain true to the craft that I have chosen and to keep things on the streets as much as I can, so that in this way I can lead by example and prove 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

“Making The Creation Of Adam” by Stipan Tadić

that it’s possible live off one’s art. I also think it’s very important that your actions send a positive example, not only on a professional level, but also on all other levels.

Something like Miss World, only with a little more paint on the fingers and clothes, haha.

Bare: I do, that’s why I try to contribute to community projects like Art Park, educational workshops, and fundraising events, in order to send a particular message.

Dominik: Yes, if you have the opportunity to put something in front of people, you definitely need to choose your words and the way you present things. I especially like the idea that we are all teachers and students and that we can influence someone or something.

Modul: Of course. All works on the street are part of a conversation with the people, so that’s why I always try to make sure it’s positive.

Stipan: Sure, every piece of work has to communicate with and educate the viewer.

Is there a specific thought or message you’d like to pass to the readers?

Artez: Be consistent in your work and never give up on what you love!

Dominik: Be teachers…and students… hahaha.

Modul: Catch and release.

Stipan: Drugs don’t expand your mind.

In your opinion, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax?

Artez: Art Park, because that’s where my friends are!

Bare: Art Park, but during the winter it’s Atelier Lapo Lapo and of course Sljeme.

Dominik: Art Park and any other park when the weather’s nice. I like to drink tea/beer/wine in Mali Medo on Opatovina St.,and I like to hang out in Atelier Lapo Lapo. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street Art Modul: Art Park, Gradec, vidikovac, Strossmayerove stube, Zrinjevac, basically wherever there’s green space. During the summer it’s mostly along the Sava river while fishing under the bridge and enjoying the shade.

Stipan: Sljeme.

What’s the best way to get to know the city and its people?

Artez: Through drawing, of course!

Bare: Infiltrate yourself among like-minded people and explore the city with them.

Dominik: Through conversation! That’s the best and most natural way.

Modul: Drawing and conversations: that’s how many new projects and friendships have come about.

Stipan: I somehow always meet the best people in the strangest places, but again, Krivi Put is a nice place to start.

Where do you think’s the best new place for street art in Zagreb?

Bare: The sides of buildings that are in bad shape which are all over the city.

Dominik: Neighbourhoods! Neighbourhoods are great: Novi Zagreb and Trnje have many grey and depressing socialist buildings which could be brought to life with murals.

Modul: I think the only legal place remaining is the roundabout, which is also the worst possible place. A lot of the facades have begun to be painted, so I think that most of the potential walls are in the centre and are yet to be discovered. And the people themselves will start to seek out the artists, just like we were contacted by the tenants of a building who were interested in their facade being painted.

Stipan: I think the whole city has potential for street art, especially Novi Zagreb.

Bare at work

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

How has street art changed in Zagreb and Croatia in the last few years?

Bare: Like I’ve already said, I think we’re experiencing a lot of hype, and that fact’s proven by how much work we have.

Dominik: It’s growing and developing well, but there can still be more.

Modul: It’s changed immensely. Until about 5 years ago there weren’t so many people - mainly graffiti artists while now there are people doing murals, stencils, stickers, posters and looking for any piece of wall, entranceways, and door where they can leave their mark. There was a boom and a lot of new names came out of it, which if it continues like this will be great for street art.

Stipan: It’s strange here, street art had a roof over its head before it really came to life on the street. Interestingly it’s held together by a total of about 5 people. At first, the only serious “street artist” - except for graffiti artists - was Filjio, who did a pretty good job of keeping his anonymity; which I think is cool with “real” street artists. Right now Lonac is very active and very good + graffiti artists Chez and ManeMei ...

Autumn 2016

27

Restaurants CROATIAN

MEET THE MEAT

BALON The super-friendly waiters, modern interior, lovely outside seating, good cooking at sensible prices. Be sure to book for an evening table.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 09 18, www.restaurantbalon.com.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). P­T ­A ­6 ­L ­ G­B ­W

BATAK GRILL A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick, but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn).

P­T­A­6­V­G­B­X­S­W

DIDOV SAN Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine.

Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, www. konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P­A ­L ­G ­W ISABELLA A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat – they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, www.restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). P­L ­N ­G ­B ­W STARI FIJAKER 900 A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, www. starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

(55 - 130kn). P­A ­G ­X ­W VINODOL Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr.

Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 180kn). P­J ­A ­6 ­G ­ B­W 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

JARUNSKI DVORI A large black grill, lakeside seating and a few pivo from the ice chest combine to make for an atmosphere that says weekend whatever the day. The menu features all the beef and sausage you can stomach and is best described as decent. Your departing gait will closely resemble a waddle.

QG‑5, Aleja Matije Ljubeka 3, tel. (+385-1) 383 16 72/ (+385-) 091 383 16 75, www.jarunskidvori.hr. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (30 - 75kn). N­B­X

SEAFOOD DUBRAVKIN PUT Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, www.dubravkin-put.com. Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 170kn). P­J­A­L­G­B­W KORČULA Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 165kn). P­J­ A­G­B­W

INTERNATIONAL CANTINA A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll find the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, and bread. It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and know-how, and of course the almost stereotypical Italian chef singing in the kitchen while preparing everything, show-cooking style. The shelves are awash with wines on offer, and Cantina might well be the only place in Zagreb (if not the entire country) where you can get your hands on a sparkling red wine. There’s even Italian beer on the menu. Also at Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16.QD‑2, zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurant Voncimer - the gastronomic but casual value for money dining and drinking experience in a relaxed atmosphere. Personal selection of Croatian wines, mainly from smaller independent vineyards and artisan winemakers.

Kralja DrzĚŒislava 3, Zagreb (city center, near Mestrovic Pavilion also known as DzĚŒamija).

The restaurant stays inside Oris House of Architecture Business hours: 12 pm – 11 pm (Mon-Sat) voncimer@oris.hr | 01 7988 374 | facebook.com/voncimer | instagram.com/voncimer

Restaurants MANO Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation.

The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance.QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 150kn). P­A­G­B­W

Rooster in red wine, Voncimer Archives

Hemingway Bar & Bistrot Archives

Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03, www. cantina.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 65kn). P­i­T­J­A­B­S CARPACCIO Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W HEMINGWAY BAR & BISTROT Hemingway is an established name that oozes in class and is a place to be seen. With years of experience, the staff is highly trained with attention paid to every detail, as with the food, drinks and even cigars. Cocktails are a menu classic with some unheard of combos that will knock your socks off, and the music is very much based on the clubbing and lounge scene!QB‑3, Trg Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58 88, www.bistro.hr/. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. i­T­J­A­G­B­W 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

VONCIMER Situated just a mere hop, skip, and a jump from Zagreb’s džamija, Voncimer has reinvented itself as an International eatery, with Ukrainian specialities. Situated in the ORIS House of Architecture, it’s ideal for impressing friends, family, or business guests, or simply for enjoying yourself.

We can recommend trying a traditional house drink, Mors, made with cranberries, cinnamon, aniseed, and cloves.

QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 798 83 74, www. oris.hr/hr/voncimer/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 125kn). P­J­A­G ZINFANDEL’S Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated in Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food, using local and international know-how to best create great dishes which resonate with regional authenticity.

The huge štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). P­A­G­B­W

CHIC & CHEERFUL BISTRO ROUGEMARIN Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves.

Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef

Voncimer Archives

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Restaurants

cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice.

Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended.QK‑4, Frana Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76/(+385-1) 788 87 76, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn). A­6­G­B­W BISTRO ŠALŠA Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are men and one would expect that at least 50% of the customer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH‑3, Kostelska 11, tel. (+385-) 095 199 54 59. Open 11:30 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 40kn). P­N­ Marunada - Lovran Tourist Board Archives G­B­S­W MALI BAR Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 110kn). P­A­G­B­W PAPA’S This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.

QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas. hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 22:00. (24 - 38kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

ETHNIC ASIA Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). P­A­G­W ASIA T HOUSE Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent months and years, and all of it very much welcomed indeed. Here, just around the corner from the main square, you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a distinct Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break from shopping, it’s a place to shop, and to eat. The market is expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the burgeoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a menu packed full of familiar items, and some not so familiar. Connected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know it’s quality.QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, www. asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn).

P­A­G­B­W ROYAL INDIA Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, www. royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn).

P­J­A­G­W TIME RESTAURANT & BAR Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food, something not so common in Zagreb even a few years ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn) €€. P­T­J­ A­G­B­K­X Autumn 2016

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Restaurants BREAKFAST BISTRO FOTIĆ Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs, apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 76, www.bistrofotic.com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 25kn). i­J BISTROTEKA Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka. hr. Breakfast is served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. (17 - 42kn). i­J Cantina Avenue Mall, Photo by Marša Gajinov

CORNER BAR They offer a large selection of coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices. There’s something to suit everyone’s taste!QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93. Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00. (22 33kn). P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W

Cantina Avenue Mall, Photo by Marša Gajinov

JOHANN FRANCK Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey sandwich with mozzarella, toast, croissants with chocolate and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www.franck.eu/johann-franck/.

Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. (8 - 65kn). i­J KAVA TAVA How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon’n’eggs, sausages’n’eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica 12, www.kavatava. com. Breakfast is served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 40kn).

J­N­B­W

Bistor Rougemarin, photo by Bojan - Haron Markičević

LUNCHES FAJN BISTRO ‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful watering holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint.

QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11, www. fajnbistro.com.hr. Open 13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 120kn) €€. P­T­J­A­L­G­B­X­W 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

LOUIE CAFE & KITCHEN English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms), a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, croissants, muffins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sandwiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 59. Breakfast is served: Tue - Sun 09:00 - 11:30. (18 - 58kn). A­6­W POD ZIDOM COFFEE, FOOD & WINE BAR Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian indigzagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants enous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from Dolac) also, Pod Zidom has a special à la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu. Pod Zidom also plays host to live music during the week(end).QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 325 36 00. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 75kn).

E­B

PIZZA FRANKY’S Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine.

Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­ A­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W KOD ŽACA If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken to anyone living within its delivery radius.

Known for its pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www. pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn).

P­T ­6 ­V ­N ­G ­S ­W

VEGE RESTAURANTS NISHTA It’s far from ništa (nothing) that you’ll get here, should you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A return visit is definitely on the cards. Kitchen closes at 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44/ (+385-) 099 254 69 59, www.nishtarestaurant.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P­T­ J­A ­6 ­G ­W ZRNO BIO BISTRO 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, www.zrnobiobistro.hr.

Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). P­A ­ 6­G ­B ­W

O’HARA O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their pizza chefs win award after award. The western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee.QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (38 - 86kn). P­T ­A­ G­B ­X ­S ZERO ZERO Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…

The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Neapolitan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates, family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Local Flavour AUTUMN FLAVOURS Rain, they say, falls ever so often; scientists argue over whether we will experience global warming or an ice age, summers seem ever so brief. However, despite of it all and with our luck, the couriers of Zagreb’s autumn are always ‘the same old’, ordinary, charming, and impeccable, colourful, alluring. You can sense her smell in the air, because the smell of Zagreb’s autumn is, as they say in Zagreb, utterly delicious.

Dolac awakens all senses in the autumn. On Zagreb’s central open market, under the sunshades in the colours of the šestine umbrella an array of curiosities are compressed, even the kumice or godmothers awaken from the abundance. Some ingredients are special, authentic autumnal favourites of old Zagreb, such as young beans that will be eaten with a spoon, pumpkins that will be made into a dainty pumpkin and cream cheese strudel, chestnuts that will smell in the streets until the real winter comes, or porcini mushrooms which the hardworking mushroom pickers have sent down to the city from lofty Medvednica, hovering high above Zagreb. The same ingredients that are strutted on Dolac, are the same as those that smell oh-so

Peppers and home made ajvar, photo by Višnja Arambašić

delightful while being transformed in the city’s restaurants and Zagreb households where every day cooking has not been abandoned. To not peek into an old tavern or a modern restaurant which has modernised an old recipe to make it even better, would be a shame. Actually, there’s no real dilemma there, for when the Grički cannon announces with a bang that it is exactly noon, it is time for lunch! In addition, that fresh cheese and sour cream from the kumice on Dolac, was eaten long ago with a piece of corn bread whilst standing.

Autumn is the season that longs for, as it is so popularly said, food that is eaten with a spoon, food that fortifies but does not fall heavily on the stomach. Autumn is ideal for hundreds of types of vegetable stews, for a plate of young beans in which meat is optional, and which can and does not have to be adorned with a pork sausage, for sour pork lungs, for tripe in which men, more frequently than women, look for comfort with a spoon. Tripe, that lunch-classic, such as let us say wine goulash or gentle egg noodles with cabbage that reminds us of childhood. A little bit of cabbage, a little bit of grandma’s noodles and there is happiness. And ham hock!? It is important not to be impressed by a large piece of pork meat that can be taken off the bone with one’s fingers. Autumn looks for invigoration of all sorts, and ham hock is even more than that.

Every bite from Zagreb’s gastronomical autumns reminds of home, wherever you may be from. To be, truly, for a moment, and then for evermore to remain, a real Purger or authentic Zagreb resident, it helps to buy a bag of hot chestnuts, and to pair it with Portugiser, a young wine. For Zagreb has its Beaujolais, its young wine, which is, why would it not be, maybe even better than that which the French have made famous.

Croatia has a singer named Oliver. In his repertoire is a song that lists tens of meals that can be made from eggs. When you once try Zagreb’s autumnal delicacies, it is easily possible that you will start to sing lyrics that list: ˝sour pork lung, vegetable stew, pork sausage, black pudding, young beans, egg noodles with cabbage, thin dried flatbread, cottage cheese pasty, wine goulash, ham hock, pumpkin pastry, porcini mushrooms…˝ Rain, they say, falls ever so often; scientists argue over whether we will experience global warming or an ice age, summers seem ever so brief. Luckily, Zagreb’s autumn is always ‘the same old’, ordinary, charming, overwhelming.

Here she is, you can feel the smell in the air - utterly delicious!

HIT THE MARKET! If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

Dawn in the vineyard, Slatina, photo by Mirsad Mujanović

34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.

Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a dauntzagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour day at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce – natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the scales).

The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule.

If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

Dried Figs, photo by Višnja Arambašić

ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not shortchanged or given spoiled produce? ​ on’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an D open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look carefully you can spot the importers – the fruit is a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yester36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag island.

A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour TASTY GETAWAYS Interested in trying some delicious local specialties available around the Zagreb area? You’re in luck because we’ve made a list of some great places for you to try out during your visit. Savour the taste of traditional local dishes made using only the freshest seasonal ingredients at these mouth-watering restaurants, which can be enjoyed along with various homemade wines produced in Central Croatia. Or, as an alternative, stop by an organic farm to pick up some fresh produce and make your own meal.

BERTIJA POD LIPOM This is a 200 year old, originally decorated, cottage and a protected monument that continues to serve up classic dishes from the hills of Zagorje. You can taste the homemade strudels, sausages, cheese and sour cream on offer.

The owner Božo is the heart and soul of this place and makes sure that everything runs smoothly.QZarebačka 8, Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 91 60. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon. N­B­W

KARLO This charming picturesque restaurant is located in the heart of the Plešivička Wine Road, part of an area locally nicknamed, “Little Tuscany.’’ They offer traditional dishes full of mouth-watering flavour and seductive aromas using fresh seasonal ingredients, such as homegrown rabbit prepared with a delicious rose champagne or savoury chicken and vegetable skewers. These tasty meals can be enjoyed with some homemade wine while overlooking a beautiful view of the vineyards in this gastronomic fairytale.QPleševica 40, tel. (+3851) 629 30 91. Open 12:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (60 – 95kn).

MAJSECOV MLIN For an authentic zagorski ambience make sure to stop

by Majsecov mlin. Several small wooden house are located around an old mill, in which you can still grind flour. Try some local dishes which are made using only ingredients from the Zagorje region. Mulberries, pumpkin oil and cream of pumpkin soup are available to try along with numerous other local delicacies.

QObrtnička 47, Donja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 80 92, www.majsecov-mlin.com. Open 09:00 – 23:00.

(65 – 90kn). A­G ­B ­X ­W MALA HIŽA Dishes in a 125 years old restaurant - This majestic small traditional wooden building was built in 1887, dismantled, relocated, reassembled, refurbished and opened in 2001. What a journey! And when going to such extremes, the food just has to be good. There is a yearly all-round menu and an additional seasonal menu that combines tradition with innovation.QBalogovec 1, Mačkovec, Čakovec, tel. (+385-40) 34 11 01, www.mala-hiza.hr. Open 10:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 24:00. (65 – 185kn). P­A ­B ­W

THE FOODIE’S GUIDE

Pomegranate, photo by Višnja Arambašić

Bučnica, The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives

38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

18. 09 - 30.10 » ISTRIA –TRUFFLES, WINE AND CHESTNUTS Istria’s old hilltop towns and rolling countryside paint a picture of a Croatian Tuscany complete with a host of foodie treats. Gastronomically speaking, this is one of Croatia’s most interesting regions. The heart of Istria is where the white truffle flourishes and you can really dabble in some gem dishes spruced with truffles. Join in the exhibitions, promo sales, cooking workshops, wine, cheese and other eco gastro sampling on the Zigante Truffle Days in Livade.

Qwww.trufflefair.com.

07.10 - 16.10 » WEEK OF RESTAURANTS From New York to London and to our humble Zagreb!

Choose restaurants to wine and dine at the mere price of 100kn, special 3 course menus will be served up . What a bargain and great way to experience new cuisines.

Qwww.tjedanrestorana.com. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour 07.10 - 09.10 » HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL This is a wonderful event which celebrates chestnuts and every autumn attracts numerous visitors to the beautiful little town of Hrvatska Kostajnica. Expect an array of musical, sporting and cooking events – all dedicated to the main theme of chestnuts, as well as a nice stroll through the chestnut woods.QHrvatska Kostajnica, www.tzghrvatska-kostajnica.hr.

14.10 - 16.10 » 12TH PUMPKIN FESTIVAL A festival where you’ll have the chance to sample and buy a whole range of delicacies made from pumpkin. There’ll be myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by carriage and classic car laid on, children’s play areas and workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibitions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in Ivanić-Grad – and you’re most welcome to join in the fun!QIvanić-Grad, www.tzig.hr.

10.10 - 16.10 » GASTRO TUROPOLJA (VELIKA GORICA) A festival of traditional foods promoting the cuisine and cultural attractions of the town of Velika Gorica and its environs. Just a short drive from Zagreb, Turopolje is a region of peaceful villages characterised by wooden architecture.

As you drive around, you’ll find a whole host of specialities and a welcoming atmosphere waiting for you in the local pubs and restaurants.QVelika Gorica Tourist Board, www.tzvg.hr.

16.10 » ZELINA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL (KLADEŠĆICA) Make the most of the autumn days in the leafy hills around Sveti Ivan Zelina, and don’t miss out on fresh roast chestnuts this year. After an easy hike to the Kladešćica hiking hut you’ll find a merry throng picking and roasting chestnuts. Fresh grape is laid on to quench your thirst and delicious, locally - produced nibbles will keep you going until the chestnuts are done!QSveti Ivan Zelina, www. tz-zelina.hr.

11.11 » ST MARTIN’S DAY (MARTINJE) In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St Martin’s Day the grape must is “baptised” and turned into wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according to legend St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when he was proclaimed bishop. Martinje is celebrated in many towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hillside wine cellars around Dugo Selo.Qwww.tzzz.hr.

25.11 - 26.11 » 11º ZAGREB VINOCOM Fancy a drop of wine! Yet another top quality exhibition that promotes the very best in national and international vino as locals would call it.QC‑4, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, Mihanovićeva 1, www.vino.com.hr.

Gastro Turopolja, photo by Mario Žilec, Velika Gorica Tourist Board Archives

The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

THE LITTLE MARKET FROM THE ATTIC Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Tavana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food. For locations and dates check their website or Facebook page.Qwww.mali-plac.org. J WINE SCHOOL BY JELENA ŠIMIĆ VALENTIĆ Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, www.pupitres.hr.

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Coffee & Cakes BLOK BAR A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and smoothies that complement the select coffee offerings. They offer a large selection of Croatian wines. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space.QE‑2, Tomašićeva 13. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

P­6­N­G­B­X­W CUKERAJ Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sensations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 54, and Dubrava 20, tel. (+385-1) 291 05 66. QA‑2, Britanski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, www.cukeraj.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00. P­J­N­G ELI’S Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, www. eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P­J ­N ­G ­W EXPRESS BAR It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00.

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

FINJAK Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful stepback-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. Indoors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 092 111 34 83. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

KINO EUROPA Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, www.kinoeuropa. hr. Open 08:30 - 24:00. P­J ­B ­W ORIJENT There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream.

Nice old-skool vibe.QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+3851) 231 53 23. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. P­N ­G ­W PALAINOVKA Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 57. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N ­B ­X ­W

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes NOT JUST A GREAT SPOT TO SIP YOUR MORNING COFFEE IN PEACE, BUT ALSO FOR A FUN NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN WITH FRIENDS.

Open : 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00

Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4

PIF Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even during the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59.

Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. P­J­B SWANKY MONKEY GARDEN You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great addition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and documentation dating back to the building’s previous life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard.

Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands, DJs, movie nights, warm ups for club nights and festivals.QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 01:00. P­A­G­B­X­W TORTE I TO Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

(next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) • tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93

available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41 11, www.torte-i-to. hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W U DVORIŠTU Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists.QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. P­6­N­G­B­X­W VIS À VIS Located just beneath the Zagreb funicular, see an entire new approach to cakes and pastries which are all made gluten free! Only nutritious healthy ingredients are used including stevia, rice or soy milk, flax seed, olive oil, cranberries, sweet potatoes, carrots, almonds, cashews, fruits and more.

Digest it all with 100% Arabica coffee, revolution teas, or healthy fruit juices. Get a terrace seat and remember, ‘health is wealth’.QB‑2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 15 51. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. P­J­N­B­W Autumn 2016

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Nightlife

Johann Franck, photo by Dino Ninković

High on demand, here you can find the latest information about nightlife in the Croatian capital which is becoming the ‘must visit’ category in terms of rankings. From jazz, funk and alternative music, through to new and old R&B, hip hop to edgier electro beats, we present to you an entire range of what that is ‘smoking hot’ in the Zagreb’s nightlife scene. It has to be said that the city is full of small sized nightclubs and bars made for clubbing and warm-up parties, so there is no excuse to stay in as its time to face the music; ladies get the heels on, gents get the gel and head into town for a party all-round.

ALTERNATIVE AKC MEDIKA Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community.

A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 04:00 and on request. J­6­N­B­X­W JABUKA This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electropop.QH‑2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P 42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

KSET On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place.QB‑4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, www.kset.org. Open 20:00 - 24:00, Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E­G­W MOČVARA This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. P­T­6­U­L­ E­N­G­B­X­W

BARS BACCHUS JAZZ BAR Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. T­J­6­N­B­X­W zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife viewer has already been back more than a few times.

QA‑4, Ivana Broza 48, tel. (+385-1) 366 83 60, www. jiggybar.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­ B­X­W KINO KLUB GRIČ There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see.QC‑2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06, www.artkinogric. hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. T­J­6­ N­B­X­W

The Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar Archives

BOOZE&BLUES A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze & Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W CORNER BAR Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit everyone’s taste! In addition, they host various musical evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors available for presentations.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 11:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W JIGGY BAR Jiggy almost feels as if you’re entering some sort of WWII shelter, but it’s very cosy within and very welcoming. The venue is split so as to allow patrons to enjoy a quiet-ish beer, or revel in whatever live music is playing. Funk, alt rock, etc., just a few of the genres on offer, and this refacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-andwhite pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

P­T ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W TABAN BAR Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like bar which is located on one of Zagreb’s most popular walking streets. The outdoor patio is the perfect location to sit back with some friends and people watch.

Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style writing on a chalkboard and comfy couches create an urban feel. Usually featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event details.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27, www.tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. T­J ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W TESLA POWER HOUSE Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music, funk rock… Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar.

Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-) 098 955 81 94. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. P­T ­J ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W THE PLACE Make a night of it at ‘The Place Bar’ which offers more than 35 world brands of bourbon and whiskey, over 10 brands of cognac, 12 brands of gin and 60 types of seAutumn 2016

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Nightlife CLUBS

Corner Bar Archives

JOHANN FRANCK If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily specials posted on site and on social media.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, www. johannfranck.hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. P­J­A­G­B­X KLUB. Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub. is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and indie to electronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14, www. subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N­X­W

Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & co. Archives

lected wines. The mind boggling choices are matched by its modern interior with a glowing effect. Judging by the name, this is the place to be when it comes to having a drink or more.QC‑2, Teslina 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 65 57, www.theplacebar.eu. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www. vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. P­T­6­ E­B­X­W VINYL A wine and whiskey bar, Vinyl is still finding its feet but has great potential. Beautifully decorated, with as much vinyl adorning the walls as you might expect from the name, it has the sense of those classic beatnik venues of the 1950s.

Food is advertised and there’s live music several nights a week.QC‑2, Bogovićeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-1) 238 54 21.

Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 24:00. P­J­A­B­X­W 44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

PEPER A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new location. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to provide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, disco, pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue has in abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth calling in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00 Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the weekend. We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 393 99 38, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. Open Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. P­J­ A­G ­X ­W SAX! This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.

QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www. sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. N­G ­W SHOCK SHOW INDUSTRY - D KATRAN - TRIM KABINET 5REKOVIĆ Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,’ by locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget to make a reservation ahead of time.

QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 098 58 35 77, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00. J­6 ­E ­N ­X ­W

PUBS BIKERS BEER FACTORY Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer.Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P­T ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W SHERIDAN’S PUB Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T ­6­ N­B ­X ­W

Time Restaurant & Bar Archives

La Bodega Zagreb Archives

MIGHTY FINE WINE BASEMENT This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure.

QB‑2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, www. basement-bar.net. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­G­B­W LA BODEGA ZAGREB Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wines.

This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds one of the most popular street, Bogovićeva.QC‑2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 345 34 45, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 02:00. P­i­T­J­A­E­B­X­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Johann Franck Archives

Autumn 2016

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Sightseeing QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, https://zoo.hr/. October 1 - 29 Zoo is Open 09:00 - 18:00, ticket office 09:00 - 17:00. October 30 - January 29 Zoo is Open 09:00 16:00, ticket office 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.

Archaeological Museum in Zagreb Archives

Medvedgrad, Photo by Dalibor Brlek

ESSENTIAL ZAGREB BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE (TRG BANA JOSIPA JELAČIĆA) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

MAKSIMIR PARK & THE CITY ZOO (MAKSIMIRSKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT) A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.

46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

MIROGOJ CEMETERY Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.

ST MARK’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.

QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

QC‑1, Kamenita bb.

THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY (KATEDRALA MARIJINA UZNESENJA) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives

1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

TKALČIĆEVA (TKALČIĆEVA STREET) You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva.

MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU) Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM (MUZEJ ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT) This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides.

These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 40kn. U CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection.

QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets 15 - 30kn. U Autumn 2016

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Sightseeing CROATIAN SCHOOL MUSEUM (HRVATSKI ŠKOLSKI MUZEJ) Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+3851) 485 57 16, www.hsmuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ MUSEUM (MUZEJ DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ) Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed ‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA‑4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time.

Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn. U MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ) Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he completed many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www. mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA) The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U 48 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Photo by Marša Gajinov

Croatian Institute of History, Dvorišta Archives

ORIS HOUSE OF ARCHITECTURE The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia culture centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts conferences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the arts. There’s a multimedia hall, library, and even a restaurant with chairs donated by architects from around the world. QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 377 81 77, www.oris.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 21:00. Closed Sun. Throughout the autumn period, you’ll find many interesting exhibitions: 15.10 - 5.11 » PEZO VON ELLRICHSHAUSEN NO MORE NO LESS 15.10 - 5.11 » UMBERTO BONOMO - CONTEMPORARY CHILEAN ARCHITECTURE 8.11 - 24.11 » FRANCO ALBINI 30.11 - 8.12 » ZLATKO UGLJEN zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS (MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.Q C‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 30kn.

MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins.

An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small children).

TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellorpowered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART (HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, www.hmnu. hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 15 - 25kn.

THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Sightseeing ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

GALLERIES ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON) A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.

Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnickipaviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission varies depending on exhibition.

LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART (KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA) Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3,

Photo by Eli Gajinov

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Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, www.lauba. hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 25kn. U THE CROATIAN SOCIETY OF ARTISTS Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, www.hdlu.hr.

Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

LANDMARKS GRIČ TUNNEL (TUNEL GRIČ) Built during WWII as a shelter, this 350-metre long tunnel was recently opened to the public and is located between Radićeva and Mesnička Streets in the heart of the city centre.

A range of cultural events are set to be hosted there whilst in the meantime it is a fine safe-haven if having to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.QB/C‑2, Open 09:00 - 21:00.

THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES (DRŽAVNI ARHIV) On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb. This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person.

QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/ (+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, www.arhiv.hr. Open 08:15 - 15:45, Fri 08:15 - 14:45. Closed Sat, Sun. THE LOTRŠČAK TOWER AND GRIČ CANNON (KULA LOTRŠČAK I GRIČKI TOP) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9.

Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU - MODEL CITY Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

CURIOSITIES These places have that unmistakeable air of the bizarre, eclectic and/or funky hanging about them making them a perfect destination.

FUNICULAR Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.

THE ALTAR OF ST. ROCCO Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of something until we learn about the efforts gone into its creation.

The altar of St. Rocco which is now placed in the Chapel of St. Rocco and located in the park overlooking the British Square, has survived its own Calvary. It was originally built in 1755 by city guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it carried the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back then were categorised by colour and their exaggerated baroque decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer thought that many altars, though beautiful, were not spiritually inspiring and ordered a complete revamp; hence the altar was subsequently given a new home, new look and new name. The end of the 19th century saw the altar themed with a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a piece of bread in its mouth. Two centuries later, a fire in the 1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after extensive restoration; it was possible to once again see the altar in its original design. QB‑2, St. Rocco Chapel, Rokov perivoj.

ZAGREB MUMMY Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterfacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

ranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.

ZAGREB’S SOLAR SYSTEM The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

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Sightseeing and the art of gastronomy also. It is close to being a ‘home of culture’. The restaurant is certainly special because it is part of this institution and a sense of cultural and respectful communication is felt in every area, both in the exhibition hall, as well as in our Forcimer, and then in Voncimer as well.

ZIYP: In various restaurants we can see different exhibitions and occasional guest appearances by various authors, but mostly works on walls, yet in Voncimer there is a small treasure and a permanent exhibition of chairs that can be seen only here. Who are the authors of these chairs? How old are they? Where did they come from and which do you like to sit on the most?

Andrija Rusan: Voncimer is definitely special for its variety of chairs and armchairs. Naturally, this is not the first time that something like this has happened in a restaurant, but I believe it is quite rare that every chair would have a story, a special value, a known donor, and each donor here is a friend of Oris. Stylistically, the chairs are completely different, they come from different cultures, from all over the world, they are simple, cheap, demanding, and mostly comfortable (not all though .......). To me, the chairs by Otto Wagner, Bernardo Bernardi, Zlatko Ugljen are dear to me... each is special, each one of them .

Arge 2, ST 6, Dietmar Steiner

MERGING OF GASTRONOMY ARHITECTURE AND ART Restaurant Voncimer (see page 28) emerged as the sheer desire of a group of people who run the Oris House of Architecture (Kralja Držislava 3, city centre, near Meštrović Pavilion also known as Džamija, see page 46) and were keen on setting up a place which not only promotes culture and art but also the art of gastronomy. The project design was created in the architectural studio named Rusan Architecture.

The name Voncimer (original German: Wohnzimmer = living room) was chosen because we wanted to be in a space where people feel at home, as in their own living room, dining room .... And it seems that this is how it has been accepted.

ZIYP: The project itself is interesting as it is located within the Oris House of Architecture. How did the idea of the merging of gastronomy and architecture and art in general come about? What was the guiding principle for the creation of such a restaurant? How was it meant to be unique?

Andrija Rusan: Oris the House of Architecture is an association that has been publishing the Oris magazine for 18 years straight. Recently, we published the centennial edition. We fixed this venue one and a half years ago so that we could maintain and host exhibitions, lectures, promotions and presentations, in order to give all interested parties the opportunity to carry out their quality programs.

So this is not just a house of architecture, but of all arts, 52 Zagreb In Your Pocket

ZIYP: Recently, we tried a range of dishes by the new Ukrainian chef who pleasantly surprised us, and with a great new dessert also? In a few words, enlighten us on the concept of the cuisine offer at Voncimer, and what would you recommend from the menu?

Andrija Rusan: Yes, Konstantin is a great Ukrainian master of cooking derived from European culture, behaviour, and life. His art and his smile is certainly the wealth of the Voncimer restaurant. Restaurant managers Tetiana and Andrii form with him the ‘trio fantasticus’ that deserves great attention. You will not be sorry if you engage in a thorough test of their menu. Start from the top. I find it difficult to single something out. Ask yourself, your stomach and your body as to what suits you on the day. You might not like everything, but you will certainly enjoy most things. We all have our preferences, and that is how the menu was first created. There is something for everyone. But best of all is that you do not have to believe my every word, it is best to see it for yourself. Let me know how it goes!

Voncimer Archives

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Sightseeing

Photo by Daniela Kos

TRAM NO13 Turing back the clock to 1910, a vivid transformation occurred that would leave a major imprint on the city of Zagreb. Low and behold, electric trams finally replaced the classical and most worthy horse trams that diligently served city folk for many years. A century later, today’s tram network consists of 116 km of railway coordinated in fifteen day and four night tram lines.

Amongst these, one tram number is very specific and that is tram number 13. It was put into operation way back in 1911 and its route consisted of Ban Jelačić Square - Kaptol - Nova Ves - Gupčeva zvijezda - Mirogoj. After a tragic accident on October 31, 1954, both the tram line and tram 13 were discontinued. After forty-two years, the tram with the number 13 returned to function and rides between Žitnjak to Kvaternik Square today.

So what exactly can be seen on tram 13? Firstly, the line encompasses 27 stations from beginning till end and the route passes by some of Zagreb’s major sights, cultural institutions and locations that you should certainly visit. If you board tram 13 the entire ride takes approximately an hour from start to finish, depending on traffic of course.

Here at IYP, we can’t help but recommend you start your journey from the central station at Ban Jelačić Square and head towards the direction that interests you most. Decisions… decisions… If you happen to start from Žitnjak, you’ll pass through one of the older suburbs of Peščenica, where you will find the Church of Blessed Augustine Kažotić which is famous for its contemporary architectural design. Vukovarska Street is the lengthiest part of the route where you can see the remains of socialist architecture. The intersection with Držićeva has blocks of residential buildings inspired by the ‘father of modern architecture’ Charles - Edouard Jeanneret - Le Corbusier; a typical example is the residential block Vukovarska 35 - 35a, not to mention state institutions such as the Palace of Justice or the Public Open University. The Lisinski Concert Hall, which is also one of the largest concert halls in Croatia, was built in 1973 in honour of the great Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski who wrote the first Croatian opera, ‘Love and Malice’. Opposite the hall, there is facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

the extensive and lush university meadow with fountains which use holograms to mark major events and holidays, and in warmer days also serve to refresh. Turning towards Savska Street, one moves to a busier and livelier cultural part of the city with the Dražen Petrović Museum, Technical Museum, Mimara Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Croatian National Theatre, Academy of Music, and the Gavella Theatre. And then you finally arrive to the well-known Ilica Street which is also one of the longest streets in town (the 4th largest to be exact). In just a few minutes, from perusing the river to watching people stroll along Ilica Street amongst more shops, ice cream parlours and cafes, you reach the inaugural main square. Look to the left, and what time is it?

Glance at Ban Jelačić Square, give the Duke on the horse a salute then move along towards the Lenuci horseshoe and beautiful Zrinjevac Park which boasts a gorgeous Bollé fountain. On the right side of the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Modern Art sits one of the first hotels in Zagreb, the Palace Hotel, which overlooks the beautiful park and Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. Then to the King Tomislav Square aka ‘Tomislavac’ and its nearby Art Pavilion, from there you get a view of the main railway station next to which is the historical and classical Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 and for the most famous ‘Orient Express’ which ran from Paris to Istanbul and passed through Zagreb. Branimirova Street is next on the agenda and the ‘Branimir Centre’ is located at the intersection with Draškovićeva Street, this is where the first production of biscuits and chocolate called ‘UNION’, later known as ‘Kraš’ used to operate. Did someone just say chocolate? Hmmm… Scrumptious! A mere two stations further, we arrive at the Croatian Association of Artists (Meštrović Pavilion) i.e. Džamija (the former mosque). And two stations thereafter is the final destination, Kvatrić.

Walk through the market place, sip on coffee, nibble on cake and enjoy the city life.

Fun Fact: ZET vehicles run the entire length of the equator three fold and on a daily basis. In terms of a yearly scale... they travel the equivalent of 109 trips to the moon and back!

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Shopping A GOOD OLD VINYL DANCING BEAR CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.

QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www. dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sun. A DIRTY OLD SHOP The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, tshirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www. dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

CROATIAN DESIGN Ulični Ormar Archives

SHOPPING MALLS A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

ANTIQUES APARTMAN Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A GALERIJA KERUBIN Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, www.galerijakerubin.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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CROATIAN DESIGN SUPERSTORE Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery, lighting and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts and original souvenirs that are designed and produced in Croatia.

Also, the cafe, which is located within the store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2, Martićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 65 65, www.croatiandesignsuperstore. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. LINK GALLERY Shop till you drop store packed with hand-made Croatian designer products including lamps, unique ceramics, gifts for kids, jewelry and accessories. And with friendly staff who are happy to tell you a little story behind each item, why not bring home that perfect souvenir? So come in and take a peek!QC‑1, Radićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 94. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00.Sat, Sun Open 10:00 - 15:00.

LOVE_ANA A recently established fixture in the field of interior design, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passerby, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some

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Shopping avant-garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. TAKE ME HOME - CROATIAN DESIGN SHOP The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

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Nicholas Shoes

CLOTHES FASHION BOUTIQUE DORA Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family business that has been designing and manufacturing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs.

Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A MARA ETNO BUTIK A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, www.etnobutik-mara.com.

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JEWELRY BASHOTA Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from modern and original designs to jewellery which has been nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica 69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www.zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Sat Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A JOZEF GJONI They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

LAPIDARIUM - ZLATARNA MARIO Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑1, Radićeva 10, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J­A MEDAKOVIĆ Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

SHOES&ACCESORIES A SHOO A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.

Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.

QD‑2, Martićeva 19, www.ashoo.net. Open 12:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N BAGATT Located on Praška Street, Bagatt has opened up in Croatia for the first time. The Milan based company still maintains a complete blend of tradition and modernity in their shoe Autumn 2016

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Shopping NICHOLAS SHOES The brand Alberto Guardiani is synonym for quality Italian shoes and can now be found at Nicholas Shoe store, in Jurišićeva Street 1. The men’s line includes shoes, sneakers, slippers and sandals that appeal to those who appreciate quality in an elegant, modern and value for money way.

For the ladies the women’s collection includes shoes and sneakers with full soles, and with thick heels that last year had recorded its great ‘comeback’ in the fashion world. To complicate your decisions in which shoes to buy, footwear from the Filling Pieces brand is also available, the Amsterdam based company have sent a wave around the world with their crossover mix between high-end fashion shoes and smooth street wear.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 34 01, www.nicholasshoes.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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line production. The décor is second to none and matches all the glamour found in any of their worldwide stores. New models are always released and stay in tune with all the latest in fashion trends!QC‑2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 24, www.bagatt.it.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00.

BOROVO Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

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DELICATESSEN BONKULOVIĆ DELICACIES Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A ČAJOTEKA All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Importanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, www.cajoteka.com/.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A CROP STORE Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 28, www.crop.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Grandma Lavender - dolls stuffed with lavender made from pieces of traditional fabrics, Take Me Home Croatian Design Shop Archives

CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 56 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Shopping GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulingalovic. com/. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J­A GAVRILOVIĆ A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 56 03, www.gavrilovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. J­A KREDENCA GIFT SHOP Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products manufactured from all four corners of the country.

This cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cosmetics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of ceramic and Murano glass and more.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 278 20 40/(+385-1) 562 65 79; (+385-) 091 544 72 94, www.kredenca.com. Open 08:30 - 21:30. A KUĆA ZELENOG ČAJA A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB‑2, Ilica 14 (Passage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, www. kucazelenogcaja.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun. J­A NATURA CROATICA A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, www. naturacroatica.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A PINKLEC DELICIJA Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 21:00. Closed Sun. A SPICE UP This Indian retail features a great selection of high-quality merchandise of fresh spices, gourmet food, Indian tea varieties, basmati rice, lentils, cosmetics and many other grocery products through to personal care, apparel and more. It’s a small store but packed with goodies for a taste of curry in a hurry!QD-3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457 91 90, www.spiceup.eu. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

QUIRKY STORES BLOSSOM & BLOOM Inspired by an incompatible love for flowers, this is one florist gallery that tailors entire bouquets and gift packages according to your needs. They merge carefully picked and only the finest roses with elegant design creations and handmade boxes. From chocolates to champagne and macaroons, surprise a loved one with a memorable gift from Blossom. They deliver too!QB‑2, Gundulićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 467 85 08, www.blossom-bloom.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J HYSTERIA MAKS studio has for years been the place where artists and designers could come together to share their creations and creative solutions. After collaborating together for so long, MAKS studio designer Saša Maksimiljanović, decided that the next logical step would be to open a store where all their brands could come together in one place. The location now has an entire range of different brands, including MAKS studio, Naša posla, Gooma brand, bi.bi jewelery/ watches, Gorana Gulišija, Dinići Đenka Ivanišević, Cabinet.K, Vrecha & Co.QC‑2, Teslina 9 (In the yard), tel. (+385-1) 481 06 06. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

JASMINA I LUTKICE A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Autumn 2016

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Shopping KLOTO Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS) An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61.

Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A ROBA STORE Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, www.roba. com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. SAŠA ŠEKORANJA GALLERY Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions,

book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+3851) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

5 MUSEUM SHOP FINDS ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A ART SHOP KLOVIĆEVI DVORI Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A

Kaplja Raincoat, Cerovečki Archives

HNK ART SHOP Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, www.hnk. hr. Usually operates every evening when there are shows on. A MSU SHOP A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Istra square, Arena Centar Archives

MUO SHOP Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A

Coral necklace, Bashota Archives

58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome. hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00

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Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, info@dora-zagreb.com, www. dora-zagreb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

CLOTH ES

Spice UpQD-3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457 91 90, spiceup.retail@gmail.com, www.spiceup.eu.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00

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Shopping 01.10 - 08.10 » VINTAGE FESTIVAL Welcome to a unique blend of 1940s, 50s and 60s music, fashion, film, art, dance and design with pin ups, barbers, jive, lindy hop, a vintage market, old-timers, vespas, and a whole lot more. Step back in time to a golden era with plenty of ‘shake, rattle and roll’.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Entrance hall, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

10.11 - 12.11» PSSST! THE 10TH FESTIVAL OF SILENT FILM See film through a different light, this is where the audio background of a film is removed and the organisers provide a alternative sound accompaniment. Modern day film makers and amateur enthusiasts are more than welcome to contribute. In addition, see masterpieces of the silent film genre as well as contemporary works. Pssst! Remember, shhh!QH‑4, Centar za kulturu Trešnjevka, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, www.festivalnijemogfilma.com.

MORE STYLE FOR LESS CASH Senti Mental Bikes, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives

VINTAGE ZAGREB Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance, and even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Then prepare to step back in time as many of the city’s events, museums, shops, cafes and restaurants are about to revive the good old days. Early October is when the ‘Vintage Festival’ opens whilst in November, ‘Silent Black and White films’ will be screened. And by November 20, the Ethnographic Museum will host the exhibition,‘ A Handful of Beards’. All lovers of vintage vehicles will enjoy the Ferdinand Budicki Museum of cars, whilst fans of fashion and accessories should not miss Ulični Ormar (Street Wardrobe). In terms of food and sensing the spirit of past times in the culinary scene of Zagreb, we recommend a visit to Hemingway Bar & Bistrot (see page 28) which in some way reflects the atmosphere of Parisian bistros. Sip on coffee or tea at Finjak (see page 38), or indulge your sweet tooth at the Hotel Palace. Last but not least, we also recommend an evening beverage at the Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail bar.

02.09 - 20.11 » A HANDFUL OF BEARD If Ned Kelly was alive, he’d be a star in Zagreb with this extraordinary tribute to male beards. FYI, long beards used to represent power and wealth, and a moustache heroism and courage. This exhibit portrays the myths behind the history of beards, it traces back to the interior appearance of old Zagreb barber shops as they were in the late 19th century and throughout the 20th century. See how shaving was once practiced.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. 60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement.

Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.

QA‑2, Britanski trg.

HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac.

ULIČNI ORMAR The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs.

Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.

QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6 zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels. Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 STARS ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+3851) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr.

208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presidential Suite €1900). P­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­L­E­G­ B­K­D­W hhhhh SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotelsheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 singles €105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). P­i­J­H­ A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­C­w­W hhhhh THE WESTIN ZAGREB QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, www. hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P­Z­O­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­ B­K­D­X­C­w­W hhhhh

4 STARS ARCOTEL ALLEGRA QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www.arcotelhotels. com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). P­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­L­E­G­B­K­D­ S­w­W hhhh BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr.

100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). P­T­H­A­R­U­L­G­ K­W hhhh facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Hotels PALACE QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www. palace.hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 - 125, 3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 185). P­i­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­w­W hhhh

3 STARS CENTRAL QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 01 03, infor@hotel-central.hr, www.hotelcentral.hr. 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles €75 - 95, 6 triples €93 - 107). P­i­O­H­A­R­6­L­W hhh JADRAN QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb. com. 49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). P­i­J­A­R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh JÄGERHORN QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn. hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125, 2 apartments €159). P­i­J­A­L­G­B­K­W hhh

AROUND THE AIRPORT ARISTOS QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 150, 134 doubles €84 - 160, 7 triples €130 - 190, 3 suites €190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­i ­ H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­X ­S ­w ­W hhhh BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella. hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141).

P­A­U­L­G­W hhh

OUT OF TOWN HOTEL PHOENIX Qoutskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 33, fax (+385-1) 202 70 92, www.hotelphoenix.hr. 55 rooms (24 singles €98, 26 doubles €123, 5 triples €148). P­Z­ i­T­H­A­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­W hhhh VIENNA QG‑3, Zagrebačka cesta 211, tel. (+385-1) 386 27 77, www.hotelvienna.hr. doubles €70. P­i­A­R­G­ B­W hhh 62 Zagreb In Your Pocket

HOSTEL ARENA QH‑5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 642 19 50, fax (+385-1) 642 96 46, hostel.arena@zgh.hr, www. nazor.hr/hostel-arena-zagreb. 261 dorm beds, 140 - 190kn per person. P­H­A­L­G­B­K­X­W

MOUNTAIN HIGH APARTMENT HOUSE SNJEŽNA KRALJICA Qoutskirts, Sljeme 4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) 642 93 63, www.sljeme.hr. 17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €90, 1 8-bedded apartment €155). P­T­ H­A­6­U­I­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­W hhhh TOMISLAVOV DOM QSljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, www.sljeme.hr. doubles €56. i­T­ H­A­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhh

SHORT TERM RENTAL EVISTAS QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, www.evistas.hr.

21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105). P­A­L­G INZAGREB Qtel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, www.inzagreb.com. 10 apartments (10 apartments €59 - €95) P­Z­T­A­ R­6­U­F­G­B­C­W DESIGN APARTMENTS SVIMI QE‑2, Fra Grge Martića 35, tel. (+385-) 098 35 14 11, www.designapartmentszagreb.com. 5 apartments (5 apartments €60 - €100). P­T­A­U­G­W APARTMENTS DOWNTOWN QD‑3, Draškovićeva 40, tel. (+385-) 095 170 07 00, www.dtapartments-zagreb.com. 3 apartments (3 apartments €35 - €70 ). P­T­A­U­G­W

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Directory

BUSINESS CONNECTIONS AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, office@amcham.hr, www.amcham.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@ hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FINA - THE FINANCE AGENCY Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, LABOUR AND ENTREPRENEURSHIP QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

LAWYERS HRVATSKA ODVJETNIČKA KOMORA (CROATIAN BAR ASSOCIATION) Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for infacebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

TAX VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.

Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

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Directory NOTARIES HRVATSKA JAVNOBILJEŽNIČKA KOMORA Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through.

QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS BERLITZ Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs.QC‑2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitzzg@berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. LANGUAGE SPOT QK‑3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@ languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. Open 09:00 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

PHARMACY 0-24 CENTRAL PHARMACY QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.

DUBRAVA QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.

ILICA QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.

OZALJSKA QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.

SIGET QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

POST CENTRAL POST OFFICE QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@ posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

BUNDEK PLAYGROUND (BUNDEK) Ride a bike, go for a walk, rollerblade, play Frisbee, or simply hanging out with friends… No matter what you prefer, this is a park for small and big children alike and everyone can find something for themselves. The kid’s swings are a winner!QJ‑4.

THE CROATIAN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (HRVATSKI PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ) Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by.QB‑1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 48 5 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00 and Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn.

MOZGAONICA The latest educational craze to hit town is ‘Mozgaonica’, a discovery centre for children and teenagers who are given real life challenges through play type activities and more.

Knowledge, problem solving, critical thinking and analysing! A true WOW factor and kids can enrol in programmes or visit any time for fun. Team building as well as birthdays can be reserved! Think out loud and be proud! QK‑3, Zavrtnica 17 (Enter from Podaupska ulica), tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09/(+385-) 91 942 20 07, mozgaonica.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn.

TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA) Science is fun. Eyes will be wide with wonder as they encounter really cool space and train displays. Parents, brush up on your physics before taking the crew here: your memory will be pushed to its limit and don’t even think about making it up - they see right through you.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnickimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15-20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

ZAGREB FOR CHILDREN In most every human population it’s likely that a percentage of them will be children. Zagreb is no exception to this rule and as such, we thought it might be helpful for us to list places these strange creations are big fans of.

BOĆARSKI DOM PLAYGROUND (BOĆARSKI DOM) If the never-ending line of playground equipment weren’t enough to get your juices flowing, the halfpipe at the river’s edge will make you wish you packed your skateboard. From Trg bana Josipa Jelačića take N°17 west (Prečko) or 14 (Zapruđe) and get off at the Prisavlje stop. From there cross the street and walk a few hundred metres east on Prisavlje ulica. The playground is on your right.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2.

64 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Mozgaonica Archives

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street register Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2

Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1

Basement Archives Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1

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TRAMVAJSKE LINIJE TRAM ROUTES

1 ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ

2 ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE 3 LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE 4 SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC 5 PREČKO - MAKSIMIR 6 ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT 7 SAVSKI MOST - DUBRAVA 8 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 9 LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ 11 ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC 12 LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA 13 ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG 14 MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 15 MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE 17 PREČKO - BORONGAJ

Elka Munja Zagrebački transporti

LEGENDA/LEGEND

2 3 SAVIŠĆE

HORVAĆANSKA

a in tr U

iš

O

6

ed

aj

7 14

Folnegovićevo naselje Most mladosti

Sr

Arena Zagreb

Ve l

HORVAĆANSKA

es

4 SAVSKI MOST 7

a M m um uz je ej s tn u SO os vre P ti m

en

e

8 6 7

vs ki ga Tr j ns ko

PREČKO

Slavonska

Vjesnik Prisavlje

Sa

5 17

ap G uci riž n an ska s D an ka ko ve Č čk ul a in eč A le ka ja ja vo Po ra lja ni ce IV

O

5 13 3

ULICA GRADA VUKOVARA

D rž ić e lip va R sk ad a H nič ei k n a D ze on lo Iv je va a S Fe nić vet re gr ice nš ad či sk ca a

rs ka ro

ja

ge K

St

ru

AVENIJA MARINA DRŽIĆA

Učiteljski fakultet 5 17 14 4

K

AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR 2 8 6 7 5

Sv eu al čil ej iš a na M ira m Li ars si ns ka ki

ik Vr b

Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV

6 8 2

Stud. centar

Zagrepčanka

SVETICE

1 17 9 BORONGAJ

ULICA KRALJA ZVONIMIRA

TRATINSKA

SAVSKA

aš Jo iće rd va an ov ac uk ov ač H ka on dl ov R a av ni ce

M

Branimir. trž.

Branimir.

ULICA KNEZA BRANIMIRA

4 11 DUBEC

MAKSIMIRSKA

Sheraton

GLAVNI KOLODVOR

Vo d

n B iko ot va vr an. t

1 17 9 13

ULICA KNEZA MISLAVA

ULICA DUBRAVA

12 7 5 MAKSIMIR DUBRAVA

ić Tu eva š H kan ei o nz v Šu el a le ova ko va H ar a Sv mb et aš ic ić e ev a

Trg žrtava fašizma

Klinika za traumat.

13 6 4

HEINZELOVA

Tržnica Kvatrić

B

na ni či

13

ŠUBIĆEVA

DRAŠKOVIĆEVA

MIHANOVIĆEVA 2

MAKSIMIRSKA

Šu b

JA

tr o

Draškovićeva

Zrinjevac SAVSKA

Pe

Vo n 11 12 14 8 4

Trg hrv. velikana

Vodnikova

JUKIĆEVA

eh aj Tr ska eš nj ev ač ki B tr ad g al Te ić hn ev m ičk a . i

ka ls

Č A

sk a

Rooseveltov trg

KVATERNIKOV TRG

VLAŠKA

RAČKOGA

TRG MAŽURANIĆA

Jagićeva

Se

TRG BANA J.JELAČIĆA

PRAŠKA

FRANKOPANSKA

12 OZALJSKA 9 3 LJUBLJANICA

IN

an U

Frankopan.

Adžijina

RIBNJAK

SP

an ko p Fr

6 11 1 17 12 13 14

ILICA

ZAPADNI 1 KOLODVOR

KAPTOL

va

Grškovićeva

RELJKOVIĆEVA

Talovčeva

ni

ih M

ns

Belostenčeva

an a

rg sk it

an

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rit

B

Tr g

Sv et i M Duh an da lič in a Sl ov en sk a ILICA

Operator: HT d.d., Savska cesta 32, Zagreb

Gupčeva zvijezda

MEDVEŠČAK

BRITANSKI TRG

6 11 2 ČRNOMEREC

15 DOLJE

Jandrićeva Radićevo šetalište

JANDRIĆEVA

MANDALIČINA

PODRUŽNICA ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ

KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a Informacije: 060 100 001* Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060 www.zet.hr *poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min, iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).

ra ča G

ča

ra č.

ra

G

G

15 MIHALJEVAC 8 14

ZAGREBAČKI HOLDING

c

e

REGULAR TRAM SERVICES

Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

Služba komunikacija i marketinga

Lj

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4

8

TRAM st. u oba smjera TRAM stop - both directions TRAM st. u jednom smjeru TRAM stop - one direction Autobusni terminali BUS terminal Naziv ulice Street name

ZAPRUĐE 14

LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM.

ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Autumn 2016

29.10.2014.

65

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr