Zagreb In Your Pocket No 62 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Zagreb October - November 2011 “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Autumn’s musical treats

Festivals galore with the VIP Zagreb Jazz Festival not to be missed.

My Moment in Croatia Photo Competition

Winners announced & photos published

N°62 - complimentary copy

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Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome CafĂŠs Easily the best scene in the world!

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

See the high-rate names from the world jazz scene honoring Zagreb with their performances this year.

What to see

All those things you mustnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss

Mail & Phones

Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around Save on shoe leather

Shopping

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure Bowling or Pilates

Directory Lifestyle Directory The most essential support

Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

Maps & Index

The very best of our favourite win the photo competition, check out the page 40!

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Transport map Street index City centre map City map Country map

54 54 55 56 58

October - November 2011

Foreword Autumn beckons dear readers as the sun has finally begun to set earlier whilst the moon takes its place in the night sky. Such changes in weather makes those long nights an irresistible reason to stay in, but we have so much to say and so many things for you to do that you'll find yourself socializing and mingling without haste. The feast of St Martin gives you every reason to sip some fine wine just to get you warm, we have some of the worlds best vocal performers coming to town with all gig details scheduled inside. Festivals in music, film, can cater for just about any readers needs. A special mention must go out to jazz enthusiasts as the next few months offer a smorgasbord of cool, groovy live events. So as you venture out, discover some of the hidden treasures that are taking place in the heart of town.

In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Grafing Published 6 times per year

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In Your Pocket has been busy this year, so far publishing brand new guides in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht and Amsterdam), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk). The number of European cities we cover has now climbed past 70, and the number of In Your Pocket branded print guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare. com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish Researcher / Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover John Tsolkas, The Meštrović Looking. One of the participants of the photo competition. Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Arriving in zagreb Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, inf o@zagreb-touristinf o.hr, w w w. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park’s official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park’s Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus

Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane

Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office

Zagreb In Your Pocket

complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Basics Customs

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr). For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having al ways existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has be come overwhelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

-10 -20

F M A M J

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 12kn McDonald’s Big Mac 17.50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 8kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free ) 10,06kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,30kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8.85 €1.63 €2.37 €0.95 €0.68 €2.99 €1.09 €1.37 €4.14 €1.37 €1.36 €1.26 €0.41 €1.37

Exchange rates (as of 06.10.2011.): US$1 = 5,6kn €1 = 7,5kn £1 = 8,7kn

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October - November 2011

HISTORY 7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cathedral is severely damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé.

Vladka Tabulov Truta (1923 - 2009) Lutke s dušom, 05.10 Wednesday - 20.10 Thursday, Ulupuh Gallery

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1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia. 1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail.

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Culture & Events The 7th VIP Zagreb Jazz Festival 10.11 Thursday - 13.11 Sunday

B-4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25.

and percussionist Bill Stewart; the three composed Trio 99 > 00 which exemplifies what a guitar-led, creatively-driven ensemble could do, and that is to produce some amazing work whilst realising their own artistic vision! Q Tickets 250kn available at the Aquarius CD shop (Varšavska 11).

Lucky Peterson

McCoy Tyner

Jazz is back, better, and as jovial as ever at the 7th edition of this festival which once again brings together a star studded line-up of international artists to our city. Hear the sounds of New Orleans in its hay day to modern jazz that keeps this genre full of life and spice. The four evenings of razzamatazz jazz all begin at 20:00 till….well that is your call! Here are all the ins and outs of the event programme! 10.11. McCoy Tyner Trio featuring Jose James & Chris Potter Back in the 60s there was a slender revolution in the sounds of jazz and one of the stalwarts behind such changes was John Coltrane. His vocal collaboration with singer Johnny Hartman left a sounding impression at the time and to kick off the festival we revisit this joint venture. Philadelphia pianist, McCoy Tyner, who played on the original recording, appears with his trio and includes two voices of today’s jazz scene - tenor saxophonist Chris Potter and vocalist Jose James. Q Tickets 150kn available at the Aquarius CD shop (Varšavska 11). 11.11. Pat Metheny with Larry Grenadier & Bill Stewart - Trio 00>11 US jazz guitarist and composer Pat Metheny continues to revel in jazz circles. His style incorporates elements of progressive and contemporar y ja z z, p os t-b op, Latin and fusion. H e is join e d by s tellar b a s si s t Larr y Grenadier

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12.11. Lucky Peterson Why not be taken on a journey by this high-energy blues/ jazz revival performer? New York legend Lucky Peterson’s 2010 acoustic release, ‘You can always turn around’ soared to the US Blues and Americana charts. He plays guitar and keyboards and is set to buzz the crowd with his repertoire of reverberating string work which includes a fusion of soul, gospel and rock and roll. Q Tickets 100kn available at the Aquarius CD shop (Varšavska 11). 13.11. Pharoah Sanders Quartet Love the sax! Then be sure to catch a living legend and Grammy Award-winning artist. Sanders is said to be one of the great tenor saxophonist players, in the 60s his multi-phonic techniques were raw yet harmonic and with time the maturity in his music can be seen as he now mixes the pace, melody and tone with ease, playing from free to mainstream. Music to sooth the soul! Q Tickets 150kn available at the Aquarius CD shop (Varšavska 11).

Pharoah Sanders

October - November 2011

Culture & Events Rock & Pop Concerts

23.10 Sunday

Hurts

21.10 Friday

Stage Bottles

A-3, AKC Medika, Pierrotijeva 11, www.pierottijeva11. org. All that is punk can be outlined by this German skinhead outfit that relay some classic street like heavy riffs mixed with a dose of pop; not to mention lyrics that are working class, anti-fascist and downright to the point. Typically, their repertoire includes some classic sing along tracks that can cause much wanted and loved commotion at such gigs. They tour in support of their album titled, ‘Power for Revenge’. Q Concert starts at 21:00.

I-4, Boćarski dom, Prisavlje 2. Manchester’s dynamic duo is set to bring their brand of synthesiser pop, electro-pop and new wave to mainland Europe. Their debut album Happiness includes hit singles ‘Wonderful Life’, ‘Stay’ and ‘Better than Love’. The smooth vocals of Theo Hutchcraft bring a sense of opera and electronica that swirl around the venue in style. Be warned though! He is also known to deliver a batch of roses to some of the ladies in the crowd! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 290 - 960kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

08.11 Tuesday

Rammstein

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. Welcome to a dungeon of lasers and flame burning pyrotechnics amidst hits that are primarily sung in German but also English. With their heavy industrial/metal music these Berliners have gathered an entourage of hardcore fans worldwide. The power that these gents emit onstage cannot be adequately described in words with even their road crew running off their feet trying to keep things in tact. Metal fan s can exp e c t Zagreb to light up t hi s au tumn. Q Concer t star ts at 20:00. Tickets 290 - 600kn available at the w w w.eventim. hr.

12.11 Saturday

The Human League

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr. This English electronic new wave band stormed onto the world music scene in 1977 and had a long run of hit singles throughout their career. Vocalist and songwriter Philip Oakey continues to front the group with their synthesiser-pop/ avant-garde sound so reminiscent of 80s retro. ‘Don’t you want me’, ‘Love Action’ and ‘The Lebanon’ are just some of their classics in what is said to be a glam show. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 220 - 250kn available at the www. eventim.hr, Rockmark (Berislavićeva 13) and Tvornica kulture (Šubićeva 2). Ivan Vragolovich, Big Rock Explosion

14.11 Monday

Fleet Foxes

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr. This is one band on the uprise after receiving strong reviews in the USA and UK following the recent release of their 3rd album Helplessness Blues. Deriving from Seattle, the band is led by vocalist Robin Pecknold and play their indie rock fashioned with elements of refined earthy, rich harmonic and British folk sounds. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 170 - 200kn available at the Rockmark (Berislavićeva 13) and Dirty Old Shop (Tratinska 22).

16.11 Wednesday

Amon Amarth, As I Lay Dying & Septic Flesh

Big Rock Explosion

Zagreb In Your Pocket

I-3, Bogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 631 30 22, www.boogaloo.hr. A triple heavy metal event that will have punters banging heads and daringly ‘moshing’ off the stage! Swedish melodic death metal band Amon Amerth will pelt out their Viking like and mythological lyrical content, As I Lay Dying will resuscitate fans with their metal-core style

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Culture & Events of music that had this Californian act win the ‘Ultimate Metal God’ award from MTV” in 2007. And then the Greek Gods in Septic Flesh ought to tear down the stage as Zeus would have it with their all out death metal sounds.

17.11 Thursday

Lenny Kravitz

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. ‘Are You Gonna Go My Way’, ‘American Woman’, ‘Fly Away’ and ‘Let Love Rule’ are just some of the mega hits this American singer-songwriter has produced. He still has that stage flare and mix of rock, soul, funk and psychedelic elements in his music that keep the fans coming back for more. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 250 - 600kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

20.10 Thursday - 22.10 Saturday

Big Rock Explosion #4

Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb; Sax!, Palmotićeva 22/2. Do you wanna rock n roll all night? Then do not miss this bombastic event which brings to the stage 14 new rock bands from various genres as they pound out their thirst for heavy music. Support the national scene and a promo CD featuring a track from each band will also be available! Q Tickets 30 - 50kn available at Aquarius Music Shop (Varšavska 13, Maksimirska 16 and Vlaška 44), Rockmark (Berislavićeva 13), Dirty Old Shop (Tratinska 22).

21.11 Monday

Tom Jones

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. Correction! Sir Tom, we should say, is about to run wild with his powerful voice and audacious stage performances that fluctuate from hip pop, rock and show tunes to the grace of soul, R&B and gospel. By golly, even the younger generation have some knowledge of ‘It’s Not Unusual’, ‘Green, Green Grass of Home’, ‘Delilah’, ‘Kiss’, ‘She’s a Lady’, and ‘Sex Bomb’. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 275 - 600kn available at the www.eventim. hr.

22.11 Tuesday

Sade

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. She is back, better, and brighter than ever! 80’s jazz/pop/soul vocalist Sade returns to the main stage with a new album which has been receiving outstanding reviews as she also performs her classic international hits including Smooth Operator, Sweetest Taboo, Is it a crime and No Ordinary Love. A concert to sooth the soul! Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 300 - 720kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

25.11 Friday

Steve Lukather

I-3, Bogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 631 30 22, www.boogaloo.hr. Those of you old enough may remember the legendary songs, ‘Rosanna’, ‘Hold the line’ and ‘Africa’ from the band Toto. Steve Lukather, singer and wonder guitarist led the band and continues to rock the world with his majestic guitar playing and solo work. Lukather returns to Zagreb in support of his latest release, ‘All is well that ends well’. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 130kn.

Steve Lukather

02.12 Friday

Hammerfall

I-3, Bogaloo Club, Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-1) 631 30 22, www.boogaloo.hr. The usual regalia of assorted (chains, spikes and leather) are one sign that these Swedish giants have come to town. Guitarist Oscar Dronjak and lead vocalist Joacim Can continue to parade their power metal trade with battle hymns such as Glory to the Brave, Steel meets Steel and Hearts on Fire. Fans of Iron Maiden, Judas Priest and co will enjoy this epic treat!

Jazz&Blues Concerts 04.11 Friday - 06.11 Sunday

The 3rd Croatian Blues Challenge

E-3, Hard Place, Šubićeva 55/1, www.hardplace.hr. As Gary Moore once sang ‘But I’ve still got the blues for you’, well things are not blue here. On the contrary, the winners of this event will enter the IBC ‘The International Blues Challenge’ in Memphis, Tennessee. So come and see what Croatia has to offer in terms of Blues music.

29.11 Tuesday

Morbid Angel

I-4, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb. These death metal patriarchs from Florida sure can blast out your ear drums but they can also deliver a progressive and technical sense to their music that many in the genre do not. Complex yet speed driven arrangements coincide with brutal vocals which path the way to their sound. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

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Sunnysiders, Croatian Blues Challenge

October - November 2011

Culture & Events Classical Music Concerts

21.10 Friday

14.10 Friday

Placido Domingo

Michel Camilo (piano) and the Zagreb Philharmonics, Ernest Martinez Izquierdo (conductor)

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66, www.lisinski.hr. Michel Camilo can mix it with the best, playing the slow, the fast, the simple and the deep. This pianist has a resounding portfolio that includes accolades galore. He specialises in jazz, Latin and classical piano work. He has played alongside some of the finest trios and quintets around and he is joined by the Zagreb Philharmonics and Spanish conductor Ernest Izquierdo. Q Concert starts at 19:30.

08.11 Thursday

The Zagreb Quartet

B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6. Formed in 1919, they are Croatia’s oldest chamber orchestra and have performed at famous world concert halls such as the Sydney Opera House and New York UN Concert Hall. Their contribution to Croatian music art has been highly recognised and they continue to play a rich repertoire of classical music. Q Concert starts at 20:00.

H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište bb. An astounding 12 Grammy Awards are under his belt and Domingo’s passion for opera is yet to cease. As one of the three tenors, he is set to display his virtuoso voice to the Zagreb audience this autumn. Spanish born Domingo is a tenor and conductor known for his strong vocals, tone and range. With over 100 opera roles to his name, few have matched one of music’s living legends. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 370 - 1000kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

22.10 Saturday

Astor Piazzolla - Maria de Buenos Aires

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Opera of a different sort for this is a ‘tango opera’. Take a night out as if in Buenos Aires which is home to this 1968 masterpiece. The trials and tribulations of a prostitute named Maria is the centrepiece with her before and afterlife presented amidst all sorts of underworld characters. Directed by Mario Kovač and includes Zagreb Soloists and the Ivan Filipović Chamber Choir.

29.10 Saturday

Metropolitan in Lisinski - W. A. Mozart: Don Giovanni I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Good old Don Giovanni, one of Mozart’s well known operas which incorporate comedy, melodrama and mystic elements. See how this young yet arrogant noble uses, abuses, and enrages all those in the cast until he stumbles upon something he cannot beat, destroy or outwit. This is director Michael Grandage’s debut at the Metropolitan.

05.11 Saturday

R. Wagner: Siegfried

The Zagreb Quartet

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 09.10 Sunday - 24.06.2012. Sunday

Ballet from Bolshoi - Live at Movieplex cinema

C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77, 486 07 76, info@movieplex.hr, www.movieplex. hr. Be a par t of the 500 cinemas worldwide that will have live to air coverage of the Bolshoi Ballet. The big screen, impressive audio and visual effects will present six spectacular performances from the Russian Theatre. See the likes of Nikolay Tsiskaridze, Svetlana Zakharova and Mariva Alexandrova light up the stage with their exquisite talents.

15.10 Saturday

Metropolitan at Lisinski - G. Donizetti: Anna Bolena

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. This opera played in two acts first appeared in 1830 and is ever so popular to the day. A tale of love, jealousy and a mad crazed twist at the end where the innocent are dragged to the dungeons often causes a stir. This performance will open the Metropolitan Opera’s season with Anna Netrebko in the title role. Q Opera starts at 19:00.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Director Robert Lapage brings modern technology to opera with some innovative software which transforms the stage into dramatic pictures - never has it been used before! See this great epic tale, the third of four operas in Wagner’s ‘The Ring of the Nibelung’.

12.11 Saturday

Max Emanuel Cenčić

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. See a musician on the rise in this young countertenor who returns home after some flamboyant roles that have taken him from Tokyo to New York and other places. Dubbed as one of today’s finest countertenors, Cenčić will be supported by the Armonia Atenea ensemble with George Petrou conducting. So why not attend an evening dedicated to the great works of GF Handel.

19.11 Saturday

Ambroise Thomas: The Premiere of Hamlet

B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15. Marking the 200th anniversary since the birth of this great French composer! In his day, Thomas was seen in two parallels - beyond his time yet old-fashioned. Shakespeare’s classic is given new dimension with Thomas’ music and this is the first production of Hamlet in Croatia! Q Opera starts at 19:30.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

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October - November 2011

Culture & Events 19.11 Saturday

Ivan Ladislav Galeta

Metropolitan in Lisinski - Philip Glass: Satyagraha

23.09 Friday - 17.11 Thursday

Ivan Ladislav Galeta - The Landscape of the zero point

J-4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr. The Museum of Contemporary Art presents a full-size retrospective exhibition by Ivan Ladislav Galeta, an artist who maintains a cult status amongst fan s of f ilm and video ar t. The exhibi tion showcases works from 1969 through to today, starting wi t h Gal e ta’s very first films to a series of film scripts which he turned into a sel fsufficient form, as well as his master pieces of experimental film. A sizeable par t of th e exhibi ti on is d e di ca te d to the process he used in the preparatory stages of creating film scripts. In addition, Galeta’s lecture performances will be presented, segments of his work in which he explains various aspects of the world and art in a visual yet unusual way via school boards. His research on the language of photography, film, TV, video media as well as the internet has won many international media art awards. Prestigious film and art festivals have displayed his creative works many of which can be found in important museum collections. ‘The Landscape of the Zero Point’ is a fitting tribute to Galeta’s opus; it depicts his wide range of approaches, topics and media. This is a one of a kind opportunity for the wider audience to see a pioneer of avant-garde art, and five decades of his majestic creativity.

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. An opera loosely based on the life of Mohandas K. Ghandi, the title itself refers to Ghandi’s concept of non-violent resistance to injustice, ‘Satyagraha’. The cast includes 2 sopranos, tenors, basses and a tenor with the orchestra combined of string and woodwind only. The visually enriching stage is headed by Richard Croft who plays Ghandi.

Exhibitions 01.11.2010. Sunday - 30.10 Sunday

Memories of a ban - The Jelačić Legacy in the Croatian History Museum

B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00. One of the most important family legacies in Croatian history is to be presented with over 700 different museum artefacts which testify to the role of the Jelačić family in a wider social and historical context. The commanding figure of ban Josip Jelačić is analysed as well as how he was criticised and later turned into a cult figure and a symbol of Croatian independence.

28.01 Friday - 31.01.2012. Tuesday

The Rocky Planet Earth

B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. This exhibition consists of three collections according to the classification of rocks: Igneous Rock, Sedimentary Rock and Metamorphic Rock. At the same time, you’ll have the chance to learn about the origins of our planet, to witness the lava flows of Vesuvius and to get closer to rocks from outer space - meteorites.

03.06 Friday - 21.10 Friday

The Italian Pavilion in the world: Sabina Damiani and Igor Gustini C-2, Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, www.iiczagabria.esteri.it. As part of the 54th International exhibition of the 2011 Venice Biennial; Zagreb hosts one of 89 Italian world Institutes which supports the works of Italian artists or those Italian by descent. Featured this year is photographer Sabrina Damiani who presents her images, graphics and collages whilst Igor Gustini’s submits his creative art installations.

Goran Sudžuka, Exhibition Martina Mjesec, 23.09 Friday - 15.10 Saturday, Galerija Događanja

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Culture & Events

30.06 Thursday - 15.12 Thursday

15.09 Thursday - 23.10 Sunday

Fire

Architect Ignjat Fisher (1870 - 1948)

D-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@etnografski-muzej.hr, www. emz.hr. This exhibition is burning red hot with its authors presenting the importance of fire through social, historical, economical, and symbolic perspectives. It includes fire as linked to lightning and volcanoes, craft and industry, religion and folklore, to heretics and witches, celebrations and festivities, and more. So the heat is on at the Ethnographic Museum.

B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. By golly this city would not look the same if it was not for this famous 20th century Zagreb architect. See his entire opus which will be presented and evaluated, as well as the aristocratic clientele he worked for and his atelier. His urban and space interventions include the Gradska Kavana and Ivan Meštrović’s ‘Well of Life’ amongst many others.

06.09 Tuesday - 06.11 Sunday

Passion and rebellion - Expressionism in Croatia C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Influences from Vienna, Munich and Prague paved the way for expressionism to find its route into Croatian art, literature and theatre. The period 1916 - 1921 was a high point and this exhibit reflects on the various representative artworks and texts that were produced, thus signifying a sense of modernity and a desire for something new and different at the time.

14.09 Wednesday - 19.11 Saturday

Another World

C-2, Nova Gallery, Teslina 7. See a unique and inevitable world through the eyes of four artists in Tom Nicholson, Maha Maamoun, Mona Marzouk, and Isa Rosenberger. Their works pertain to the topic of multiple, potential, parallel, fictional and desired worlds which are different to our world and look to a future which is not determined by the present. Imagination meets the possible truth!

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The Zagreb War Year of 1991 - Ten war testimonies, Zagreb City Museum

For Art Museum listing please check page 39! October - November 2011

Culture & Events profane jewellery art made between the 15th and 18th century. See approximately fifty of the finest works of great Nuremberg and Augsburg jewellers such as Hans Pezolt, Melchior Gelb, Martin Rehlein and others in what was, a ‘golden age’ of adornments.

19.10 Wednesday - 23.10 Sunday

MIKS 11: An exhibition on ceramics and glass

15.09 Thursday - 29.10 Saturday

K-5, Zlatni konj, Sajmišna ulica 8/1, zlatnikonj@hi.t-com. hr. Open to the public and artists both local and abroad are invited to present between 5 to 10 ceramic and glass works of their own. Each artist or even art societies will undergo a pre-selection which is based on the viewing of photos and CV’s until August 26 and will be further informed. Who knows? This could just be the breakthrough that somebody needs.

David Maljković

22.11 Tuesday - 22.01.2012. Sunday

From Sculpture to Confession - Self Portrait - Autobiography

H-2, Zbirka Vjenceslava Richtera i Nade Kareš Richter, Vrhovec 38. A media artist of the new generation puts a twist on the works of architect and artist Vjenceslav Richter and his legacy of modernism. Maljković embraces Richter’s cycle of 6 prints, ‘Images With Their Own Shadow’ and transforms it into a new reality, reinterpreting it and giving it more of a contemporary meaning!

15.09 Thursday - 16.10 Sunday

The Zagreb War Year of 1991 - Ten war testimonies C-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, muzej-grada-zagreba@mgz.hr, www.mgz. hr. Marking the 20th anniversary since the beginning of the Homeland War and the struggle for a free Croatian state! This exhibition presents the trials of Zagrebians in 1991 and is divided into six topics - Peace initiatives, The JNA exiting army barracks, Zagreb’s war images, A voice from Vukovar, The attack on the City, and Zagreb’s Croatian Army war brigades. Each topic is followed by ten stories and video footage from those who directly participated in these events across all forms of life!

Tizian, Tintoretto, Veronese, The Great Masters of Renaissance

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. An exhibition that for the first time presents anthological works by some of the great masters of the Renaissance era. Step back into time and admire paintings as painted on canvas and wood between 1450 and 1590AD. Amongst them is a group of master pieces which were made by the likes of Italian painters Tizian, Tintoretto and Veronese from the 15th and 16th century. During the Renaissance, these were ordered by renowned members of Croatian church communities, aristocrats, seamen and humanist individuals. With this exhibition, the Klovićevi dvori Gallery formally opens an international exhibition deriving from Croatian collections; it reveals to the Croatian audience a compilation of art treasures that one would need to seek throughout museums abroad.

29.09 Thursday - 30.11 Wednesday

From Sculpture to Confession - Self Portrait Autobiography

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. This exhibit looks at the autobiographies of artists as presented through their self-portraits in the form of traditional and contemporary sculpture. See how artists portray themselves, of who they are, and in a dynamic way confess to the viewer their biography. This desire to narrate, reveal and convince includes works by Meštrovič and Radauš to today’s contemporaries.

06.10 Thursday - 08.11 Tuesday

Zlatan Vehabović - Sweeping Confetti From the Floor of the Concrete Hole H-3, Lauba, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 11, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Love! What is it? Is it eternal? Is it pure? Does it bite? The answers may just be found in the works by this young Croatian artist who explores the topic as inspired by philosophy, literature, film and music. The artists’ primary media is figurative art and he delves into the dark side of erotic love and the psychological impact it has on thee...

15.10 Saturday - 05.02.2012. Sunday

Silver and gold from the Thyssen-Bornemisza Treasury

B-3, The Museum of Arts and Crafts, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. This is the crème de le crème of German

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Festival of New Circus

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Culture & Events

Nataša Rajković, Perforations: A Week of Performance Arts 2011

01.12 Thursday - 12.02.2012. Sunday

Mato Celestin Medović - Retrospective

C-1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, www.galerijaklovic.hr. The exhibition by the most famous Croatian painter-plenerist is the pinnacle of this year’s Klovićevi dvori Gallery’s art season. Mato Celestin Medović was the founder of 20th century Croatian landscape fine art. He is the serene counterpart of the ‘temperamental and light manner’ of Vlaho Bukovac with whom he was the founder of Croatian Modern Art. Mediterranean landscapes beaming with sunshine, still life paintings, subtle portraits and magnificent altar pallets, as well as rich historical inscenations, are reason enough for a prolonged stay in the halls of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery during these long winter months.

Special events 16.04 Saturday - 18.10 Tuesday

The Changing of the Guard

Upper town. A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers, flag-bearers and trumpeters.

09.10 Sunday - 16.10 Sunday

Platforma.hr

Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17; Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10; Tala Dance Centre, Božidara Magovca 50; Grič Cinema, Jurišićeva 6; &TD Theatre, Savska 25. Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups that unite to present their experiences, ideas and individual dance approaches through shows, workshops and lectures. Creativity is the key and this really

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is the meet and greet of the regional dance scene. Performers from Denmark, Israel, Sweden and Hungary join local acts to present 10 premiere dance shows and more!

14.10 Friday - 16.10 Sunday

Zagreb kom 6

B-2, Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6a, info@ zagreb-festival.com, www.zagreb-festival.com. Fans of chamber music can breathe with excitement as festival director and violinist Susanna Yoko Henkel brings a group of international stars to town. Choose from three concerts Stories from the Vienna Forest (music by Beethoven, Schubert and Richard Strauss), Fairytales and songs (compositions by Robert Schumann, Bela Bartok, Leoš Janaček, and Johannes Brahms), and Slavic Night (music by Shostakovich, Antonin Dvořák).

20.10 Thursday - 29.10 Saturday

Perforations: A Week of Performance Arts 2011

Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17; Student’s Centre, Savska 25; Jednistvo, Trnjanski nasip bb; Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16; Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10; Tratinska 22; Oporovečki vinogradi 16, www.perforacije.org. Expect an astounding 25 shows and performances from home and abroad at the 3rd edition of this ever growing festival. A joint Croatian/Brazilian dance production called ‘Fuel’ will open the event which promotes innovative ideas in the field of performance arts. Look out for ‘The Night of Performances’ showcasing several young and upcoming artists.

Looking for more? Just click! zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2011

Culture & Events Mediatheque, Petra pr eradovića 5; Biblioteka Svijet Stripa, Kačićeva 6a; Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska 4, www.crs-festival.com. Are you still a child at heart? Age is of no importance when it comes to comic books and this popular comic book festival continues to attract some of the world’s best comic writers. Expect heaps of book exhibitions, interviews with authors and more.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

Red Room Cabaret , Festival of New Circus

25.10 Tuesday - 30.10 Sunday

The 7th Festival of New Circus

Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7; Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb; Travno Scene, Božidara Magovca 17, www.cirkus.hr. The weird, whacky and bizarre seem to amalgamate here and bring to the audience breathtaking performances that are downright out of the ordinary. See the famous French company of tightrope artists Les Colporteurs, the Red Room Cabaret returns and discover unknown local talent deemed too extreme for the average being, on the final night!

28.10 Friday

Trigger Party

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornicakulture. com. The hottest new event in town with fresh DJs from both Croatia and abroad bringing the latest tunes in electro, banger, house, acid, techno music and more! To kick off the event, French DJ Digikid84 spins his intergalactic big beat, electronic and funk music, and he is joined by DJ Yesha a.k.a. Rrramona!, Rachunica (disco punk, electro, 8 beat and noise), and Bambi (post punk, indie and chill). Q Event starts at 22:00. Tickets 40 - 50kn.

03.11 Thursday - 13.11 Sunday

St. Martin’s (Martinje)

C-2, Jelačić Square. The patron saint of winegrower’s is St Martin of Tours and every year Martinje festivities are celebrated across all vineyard towns and municipalities within the Zagreb County, giving you a chance to taste some of Croatia’s finest wines and to also witness the traditional custom of ‘christening’ young wine.

04.11 Friday - 06.11 Sunday

Comic Books Show

Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7; Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; KIC, Petra Preradovića 5; French

Zagreb In Your Pocket

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. U

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it’s home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it’s a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U

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Culture & Events Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21,

info@brokenships.com, www.new.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it’s been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space

in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.

The Str ossmayer Galler y of Old Master s

(Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@ hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5-10kn. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour.

Gastro events A Culinary Autumn in Zagreb County At this time of year local tables groan under the weight of a variety of seasonal produce. Enjoy the harvest to the full and take a short trip out to the towns of Zagreb County, where you’ll find the following events laid on to celebrate the season.

15.10 Saturday - 16.10 Sunday

Pumpkin Festival

Ivanić-Grad. A festival where you’ll have the chance to sample and buy a whole range of delicacies made from pumpkin. There’ll be myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by carriage and classic car laid on, children’s play areas and workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibitions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in Ivanić-Grad - and you’re most welcome to join in the fun! Ivanić-Grad Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 288 15 91, info@tzig.hr, www.tzig.hr

17.10 Monday - 23.10 Sunday

Gastro Turopolja A festival of traditional foods promoting the cuisine and cultural attractions of the town of Velika Gorica and its

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environs. Just a short drive from Zagreb, Turopolje is a region of peaceful villages characterised by wooden architecture. As you drive around, you’ll find a whole host of specialities and a welcoming atmosphere waiting for you in the local pubs and restaurants. Velika Gorica Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 622 23 78, tzvg@tzvg.hr, www.tzvg.hr.

11.11 Friday

St Martin’s Day (“Martinje”) In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St Martin’s Day the grape must is “baptised” and turned into wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according to legend St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when he was proclaimed bishop. “Martinje” is celebrated in many towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hillside wine cellars around Dugo Selo and on the nearby hill of Martin Breg (November 11), in Samobor (November 6), in Vukomeričke gorice (November 12), in Krašić (November 12) and at the Kezele Agrotourism (November 12). Zagreb County Tourist Association, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr.

October - November 2011

cinema tour

City Lights

The 5th Festival of Silent Film 11.11 Friday - 13.11 Sunday

Pssst! The 5th Festival of Silent Film

H-4, Centar za kulturu Trešnjevka, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, www.festivalnijemogfilma.com See film through a different light, this is where the audio background of a film is removed and the organisers provide an alternative sound accompaniment. Modern day film makers and amateur enthusiasts are more than welcome to contribute. In addition, see masterpieces of the silent film genre as well as contemporary works. Pssst! Remember, shhh!

Elle Fashion Film Festival 24.10 Monday - 26.10 Wednesday B-1, Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39. Do you have a fetish for fashion and film? Then this festival is a double whammy with well worked documentaries dedicated to labels and designers including Yves Saint Laurent, Yohi Yamamoto, Coco Chanel and others. The festival is in conjunction with Elle Magazine’s 9th anniversary in Croatia. See the film based on the founding of Elle!

72 Days The film ’72 Days’, as directed by Danilo Šerbedžija is the Croatian candidate for the Oscars in the Best Foreign Film category.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb has, alongside its share of plush multiplex cinemas, retained a fair number of old-fashioned picture houses that will delight nostalgia freaks as well as fans of European art cinema and other non-mainstream genres. Even better than that, a welcome side effect of the past couple of years of recession has been a revival of cinema-going, with a brace of rather unique new cinemas opening in these crisis-stricken years. If you don’t happen to speak Croatian, the good news is that almost all films are subtitled, not dubbed, so you’ll be able to follow the action if you understand the original language. The first cinema screening more or less as we know it in Zagreb took place in 1896, advertised by the slogan “Living pictures shown here!” Those famous pictures of a locomotive steaming full tilt towards the audience were shown to the dismay of much of the audience, who were then cheered up by a tableau depicting a row between a husband and wife, with the latter robustly administering a broom to the rump of the former to the general delight of the audience. Early public screenings were usually held in the open air or in circus-tents. In 1906 Zagreb got its first permanent cinema, at the spot where the city’s Hotel Dubrovnik now stands. The next cinema to open, in the same year, was today’s Kino Europa, then called the Cyril and Methodius Bioscope. Then cinemas started popping up like mushrooms all over the city. Some of them are still in use today: for example, Kino Tuškanac, then called the Olimp, also opened in the early part of the 20th century; and Kino Zagreb stands on the site where a former cinema, Kino Metropol, was demolished in 1931. As in most modern cities many old picture houses have closed down without trace, but in some cases the buildings have been saved and continue to be used for cultural purposes thanks to their unique design, which makes them ideal for use as theatres. So in the former Helios you’ll now find the Gavella drama theatre, while the Apolo, later known as Kino Croatia, is now the Kerempuh satirical theatre. If you fancy sampling what the wonderful world of Zagreb cinema has to offer today, here’s what you’ll find where. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. An attractive old cinema, café and Saturday evening dance venue, a favourite haunt of the Zagreb literati. The cinema is managed by the same people who run the Zagreb Film Festival, and apart from enjoying the festival here every October, you can catch all kinds of established and cutting-edge festivals, such as the Subversive Film Festival, Animafest (animated film) and Queer Zagreb screenings. Follow them on Facebook! Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Almost entirely devoted to international art cinema, Tuškanac today hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. This October there will be a cycle of award-winning Belgian films, followed by a cycle of contemporary Israeli film. In November you’ll be able to enjoy a review of Iberian-American film and a selection of excellent Malaysian titles. All of these can be enjoyed for the princely sum of 10kn per ticket. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. This space is undergoing a revival as a cult meeting spot. In October, this older-style cinema serves as one of the venues of the Young Choreograhers’ Platform. There’s a funky café, and the basement club hosts DJ parties open ‘til 02:00 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, featuring genres from dubstep through grime to 80s trash.

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cinema tour

Marija’s Own

CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1)

468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall. The comfortable, modern cinemas in the Branimir Centar and Avenue Mall shopping complexes usually screen the latest blockbusters. However, the Branimir Centar venue additionally hosts the Cinefest cycle of European productions. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. This modern cinema in the smart Kaptol Centar shopping mall is home to one of the cinema-going public’s favourite events, the annual Czech Film Week Q Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, www.kic.hr. KIC is the Zagreb Centre for Culture and Information, a hub for cultural activities of many kinds. The Art Cinema focuses on non-commercial film, documentary and animated film, and shows cycles by various directors and from the archives. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 15kn.

Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino.

net. Tickets can be booked via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 08:30 - 22:00 or the net www.dokukino.net. In 2009 a small former cinema was transformed into a cosy venue, complete with colourful armchairs and nice café, specialising in the genre of documentary film. It was an immediate hit. At the time of writing, the schedule included topics as diverse as love, identity, Ernest Hemingway look-alikes, battles between nations and with multinationals. Many of the films have both Croatian and English subtitles. Q Tickets 20kn. Ar t kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Croatia’s first digital art cinema in the brand-new Museum shows a carefully selected repertoire of films from around the world. Each feature is preceded by a Croatian short film, a genre which has done well in recent years at international festivals. There will also be an excellent programme of children’s films featuring titles from Croatia and abroad.

9 th Zagreb Film Festival 16.10 Sunday - 23.10 Sunday Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Dokukino Croatia, Katančićeva 3; Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10; Metropolis Art Cinema (Contemporary Art Museum), Avenija Dubrovnik 17, info@zagrebfilmfestival, www.zagrebfilmfestival. com. Art-house, documentaries, comedies and award winning world cinema is at your very doorstep in the 9th edition of this event. Aside from the rich array of films, there is also the programme, ‘My first film Denmark’ based on debut films by Danish authors. ‘The Big 5’ presents current hit films from European cinema, ‘Red Westerns’ recount classic 1960s and 1970s communist like westerns, ‘Kokice’ showcases recent Croatian short films and ‘Biblijada’ includes films for kids.

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Las acacias

12.10. Films: Deutschland Foreign film enthusiasts can partake in this cycle of contemporary German films which will be screened fortnightly on Wednesdays. The Goethe – Institute Kroatien is home to this event, the tape starts rolling at 18:00 sharp and films will be shown in the original language with subtitles. Free entry.

October - November 2011

Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheratonres. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 35€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €240 - 270, 29 suites €370 - 1500, 23 Executive Rooms €295). PZOTHAR6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/ zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 15€ daily. Q 378 rooms (337 doubles €240 - 270, 21 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PZOTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00,

fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €106 - 166, 142 doubles €115 - 180, 4 suites €200 - 480). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220). POTJHA6UFLGBKXW hhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb

H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, fourpointsres.zagreb@ fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is € 10. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Q279 rooms (228 doubles €165 - 175, 12 Family Suites €210, 22 Deluxe Suites €275, 17 Executive Rooms €185). POTHARULBKW hhhh Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. (+385-1) 204 11 21, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic.com, www.hotelantunovic. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €124 - 168, 149 doubles €145 - 189, 4 suites €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PZOTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Old-School charm Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple of minutes’ walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €109, 89 doubles €139, 3 suites €243, 3 Junior Suites €194). PTJHAR6LGBKSW hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info. Zagreb@RezidorRegent.com, www.theregentzagreb. com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €159, 48 Delux Rooms €184, 13 Delux Suite €314, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). POTJHAR6UIFLVEGBKDSW hhhhh zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suites €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www. hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €82, 29 doubles €107 - 116, 5 triples €145, 4 apartments €192). POTJHA6W hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax (+385-1) 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn). THABK hhh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of the centre is one of the best in town. Q26 rooms (8 singles €49, 12 doubles €63 - 77, 2 triples €84, 4 apartments €105 - 125). PTJ6ULNGKW hhh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/ night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No pets. Q26 rooms (13 singles €62, 11 doubles €82, 1 triples €102, 1 apartments €82). PARILGW hhh Sliško J-3, Bunićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@slisko.hr, www.hotel-slisko. com. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). Q45 rooms (2 singles €54, 37 doubles €73, 6 triples €91). PHAR6UILGBKW hhh

Budget Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax

(+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBKXW hh

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October - November 2011

Where to stay Nova galerija F-3, Zagrebačka avenija 104, tel.

(+385-1) 640 44 44/(+385-1) 640 44 45, info@ novagalerija.com, www.novagalerija.com. The “New Gallery” offers the comforts of apartment living with the convenience and pricing of a hotel that’s great for any length of stay. Clean and modern styles complement each of twelve different floorplans from a 40m2 studio to a 90m2 two-storey. All offer room service, mini bar, dry cleaning, and a free 24 hour fitness center. Underground parking. Pets allowed. Breakfast not included. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

Hostels

Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1)

663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Short term rental InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652

32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 10 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. Nine are centrally located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable. With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65 - €89, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, reception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-fromhome that draws local and international travelers alike. Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-toknow fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time. Thoughtful touches like a little things you need shop, cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Fulir C-1, Radićeva 3a, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 82/ (+385-) 099 483 08 82, fulir@fulir-hostel.com, www. fulir-hostel.com. Only 50 meters from the main square, the location can’t be beat. The welcoming staff of fellow travelers creates a homey atmosphere by including ammenities enough for any weary traveler. Feel like a local in this cozy spot nestled above a neighborhoodstyle courtyard where little touches like an original wood-beam ceiling recall the city’s long history and inspire the imagination. Q 16 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per person. PJGW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr. Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostel-away-from-home. The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the upper-most floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless. Just don’t bounce before tagging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, 14 - 16€ per person. PA6GW Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, www. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spirits are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18-40. Q 30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person. P6NGW

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Restaurants

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Chinese Asia D-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18,

asia86@zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29 - 125kn). PAG

Croatian Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGX

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Isabella Vinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www.isabella.hr. A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65 110kn). PLNGB Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 140kn). PTAEGB Klub Maksimir K-1, Oboj 1, tel. (+385-1) 234 17 41, www.konoba-cesarica.hr. Small and perfectly formed best describes the restaurant itself and the food on your plate - Croatian ingredients reinvented a la nouvelle cuisine. Probably not your best bet if you’ve been starving on a desert island for a week, but the flavours are impeccable, as is the ambience. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (25 120kn). ALB Kod Debelog Donji Pustodol 15c, tel. (+385-1) 464 58 45, caravella@inet.hr, www.restaurant-kod-debelog. com. “Fatty’s Place”, charmingly named after the goodnatured host of the same name, has earned its popularity through friendly service, delicious food and decent prices. The shady terrace is just right for an al-fresco feed in fine weather. Take tram no. 14 to the last stop at Mihaljevac. 200m along the road to Gračani you’ll see the sign for the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (40 - 150kn). PALGB

October - November 2011

Restaurants

Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@starifijaker.hr, www. starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05. You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 65kn). PAGB Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

Konoba Burin J-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461 22 42. An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater delight. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian specialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes (bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the flan-esque rožata. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 85kn). PAG

Desserts new

Oranž C-2, Ilica 7. A welcome addition to the heart of

the city, the elegantly spacious Orange buzzes with guests chatting over coffees or sampling the dazzling array of sandwiches and sweets. The crisp, modern decor is great for any group get together but even when flying solo, the variety of cheesecakes alone makes this a must-go. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. AB

Fun for the whole family zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Orijent J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23.

There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is homemade from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PG new

The Cookie Factory C-1, Skalinska 3, tel. (+385-1)

481 39 01/(+385-) 099 494 94 00, info@cookiefactory. hr, www.cookiefactory.hr. Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is complimentary. QOpen 09:00 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. PJAGBW Torte i to C-1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-1) 486 06 91/(+385-) 099 343 41 11, info@torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! Also in Babonićeva 121(Šalata) E-1, tel. 099 343 41 15. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGB

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG Bistro Karlo B-2, Gundulićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 75, initium.vini@zg.t-com.hr, www.bistrokarlo. com. This top-class temple of flavor worship trains all taste buds in the art of preserving and the pleasure of savoring nature’s finest flavors. Let the menu spark the imagination but ask your server to lead you toward their other innovative offerings made daily. Whether for lovingly prepared seafood specials or deserts to write home about, reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (95 135kn). PJAGW Hugo I-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 74 44, info@ marcellino.hr, www.marcellino.hr. Fans of the restaurant Marcellino will be cheered by the opening of a stylish and affordably priced cousin, with a selection of imaginative dishes priced between 60 and 100kn. We found the service equally attentive, and fell in love with the delicate baklava in lemon juice - a perfect dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). PAG

Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-agava.hr. Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 140kn). JAGB zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants new

La Boca G-4, Vrisnička 18, tel. (+385-1) 383 27 00/

(+385-) 099 707 44 22, www.restoran-laboca.com. Simple furnishings melt against a vibrant mural of Argentinian tangoers - a striking first impression that proves to be the perfect prelude to the meal offerings. Although humble in their menu desciptions, platters of hand-made pasta and seafood dishes are stunningly presented, seasoned most especially with time and attention. Their wide variety of choices includes a children’s menu and tortilla dishes, ensuring something for every taste. Whatever your main selection, be sure to save room for dessert! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (55 118kn). PAGB Luca’s I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 35a, tel. (+385-1) 640 60 60. If you like your pizzas thin and crispy, Luca’s is a pleasant spot where you can also order pizza baguettes, pasta dishes and imaginative salads that are just right for a light lunch. We like the warm/cold salad with chicken and shrimps and the house speciality with chicken and sesame. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35 - 70kn). PAGB

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Japanese new

Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

33, info@hanafudasushi.com, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights! Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen , Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (40 - 180kn). PG

Vegetarian corner Had your fill of burek and ćevapi ? Hoping to feast on some vegetarian vittles? Whether you’re longing for some lighter fare or fresh-out of your favorite organic goodies, nearly every part of town has some help to offer. If the few shelves-full of produce at a local biljnih ljekarna (“herbal pharmacy”) don’t hold all you need, look for the supplements and soy products of Encian easily found in many larger-chain markets. Their complete offerings are available at boutiques, including one near Kvaternikov Trg (Maksimirska 9) while just around the corner, the locally grown medicinal plants and produce of Suban (Domjanićeva 26) provides an even broader selection of tasty treats and vegetarian groceries. If a fully stocked organic and fair-trade supermarket is more to your liking, you’re sure to find all you need at one of four Garden (www. mojgarden.hr) or five Bio&amp;Bio (www.biobio.com.hr) locations while on your adventures through the city. For a stop-over in organic paradise, we recommend a visit to Bio&Bio’s Ilica 70 location where their commitment to education in natural living comes to life with the near-by Nova restaurant (www.novarestoran.com.hr), Planetopija bookstore (www.planetopija.hr) and Orgona massage center (www.orgona.com.hr).

yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNG Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464 94 00/ (+385-) 091 349 07 02, info@vegehop.hr, www. vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 66kn). AVGS

Vege Restaurants Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www.

novarestoran.com.hr. Nova offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. (+385-1) 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar. com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A

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Venera E-2, Vlaška 125, tel. (+385-1) 466 41 75.

Finally! A pizzeria that can be proud of its vegetarian menu. Not only is it difficult to wipe the smiles from our faces when we look at 12 types of vegetarian pizza, but even the mention of wholewheat flour has sent a frenzy of gastronomic shivers up our spines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 35Kn). PNG

October - November 2011

Restaurants Mexican Caramba B-2, Savska 30, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 70, www.caramba.hr. A favourite for its exceptional Tex-Mex, locals are suddenly arriving in hoards that call to mind a cattle drive (only in this case it`s Croats, not cows). Could somebody tell the bastard parrot to shut his trap or give him some tequila so he’ll chill out, please? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24 - 68kn). PAG Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 21 56, info@mex-cantina.hr, www.mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PAEG

Mt. Medvednica Pilana Bliznec I-1, Bliznec bb, tel. (+385-1) 458 64 55.

On your way to mount Medvednica, surrounded with trees, flowers and a brook is the old saw-mill Bliznec. They really are the masters of their meat!!! The best “lungić u maramici” we’ve ever tried. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 105kn). ALGB Šestinski lagvić Šestinska cesta bb, tel. (+385-1) 467 44 17/(+385-1) 467 45 28, sestinski.lagvic@zg.t-com. hr, www.sestinski-lagvic.hr. This folksy restaurant provides you with one of the best Zagreb overhead panoramas to be seen. It makes for a superb spot to sit down at before tooling through the trails that exist just short of the restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 130kn). PALGB

Pizza Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70

44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven. This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, restoran.oliva@gmail.com, www. restoran-pizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 120kn). PAVGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. (+385-1) 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 75kn). PAVGBS

Serbian new

Opera K-2, Radauševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 232 88 60,

branislav.cvetkovic@gmail.com. Take your tastebuds on a tour of regional specialities without even leaving town. Opera’s owner, and only server, creates a welcome-home atmosphere while guiding guests through menu selections served-up on hardy hand-made platters. Meat-lovers can feast on a selection of grilled specialities that simply dare you to try and save room for desert. Even lighter sides have a uniquely spicey twist perfectly tempered with Serbian beers and spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 140kn). PAGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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CAFéS Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61

24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 75. This street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any better. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GB Dvorište K-2, Maksimirska 31, tel. (+385-) 099 291 49 99. Conveniently close to Kvaternikov square, this cute little cafe is unique in its family friendly offering: a mini playground in its tucked-away interior terrance, inviting kids to romp sideby-side with parents enjoying the pleasant outdoor seating. For those less interested in swings and teeter-totters, the interior and sidewalk areas are cozy and inviting. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, info@florescaffe.com. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B Muzungu B-2, Masarykova 11, muzungu.coffeeshop@ gmail.com, www.muzungu.yolasite.com. Croatia’s first fair-trade coffee shop offers the authentic tastes, sounds and ambiance of Eastern Africa served up by locals whose hearts and helping hands span two continents. One-of-a-kind souveneirs like Masai bracelts become even more enchanting when included in a chat with the cool and inspiring staff. Sip an unbeatably priced ‘Good African Coffee’ and enjoy that it’s not only delicious but directly supporting the growers and their community. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

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Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. Its

location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunchtime hangout. Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Retro Café Bar H-4, Savska Cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59, www.retrocaffe.hr. The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@ gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. EB

Art Side of Cafés new

Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 492 12

95, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PBW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Ve l v e t B - 2 , Dežmanova 9. Vel vet use d to be a shabby-chic café, a great pla c e to lin ger over a newspaper in th e h ear t of to wn. I t’s n o w re op en e d, an d the artist-strokeflorist owner now s e e s t h a t i t’s stylish and chic, offering freshl ysqueezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. Q Open 08:00 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

October - November 2011

Nightlife Alternative Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43

97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. P Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. Purgeraj D-1, Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Ribnjak Park at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Q Open Mon, Tue 09:00 - 02:00, Wed 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37, dai.scorpion@gmail.com. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PEB

Bars Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400

20 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, bulldog@zg.primatel. hr, www.bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 04:00. PA Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52. Funk Bar features diversion on two levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range

Zagreb In Your Pocket

of electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. B Limb C-4, Plitvička 16, tel. (+385-1) 617 16 83. Tucked away out of the centre (near the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. new

Savska 14 A-4, Savska 14. This no-nonesense garden

of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PB Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you - the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it? Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PALGX

Clubs Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-)

098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138, masters.zagreb@gmail.com. An underground club just outside the city centre and easy to find. Hop onto tram number 12 and it is located right next to the Kraš Factory, you can’t miss it. Don’t be swayed by its dark and small interior as this place offers great fun and excellent music, particularly during weekends. Good DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere. QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. L Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, sirupfun@gmail.com, www. sirupclub.com. A club in Donje Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by many DJs. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, new wave, electro pop, hip hop and soul as well as hits from the 60’s and 70’s. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.

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Nightlife Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX

Jarun lake Mansion H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 34. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAB

Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. GB

Lounge bars Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel.

(+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-) 098 193 12 81, khala@khala.hr, www.khala.hr. Part lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, so you can partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PABX People’s J-3, Hektorovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 76/ (+385-1) 604 01 89, prodaja@victus-epulo.com, www. peoples.hr. A night out at this slick lounge and restaurant can move in several distinct stages. First, a selection from the quality menu offering Italian, Mediterannean and Asian Fusion. Then, a move to the lounge for a selection from the immense champagne and wine list. Then, as the night progresses, a move to the huge bar in the center of the room as the place transforms into a happening night bar. All in all, a cool place to hang out in Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAK

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PENGB Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 982 84 28. Gets close to that real pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful alternative types. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 23:00. NBX Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. (+385-1) 236 04 93, dublinpub2003@gmail.com, www.dublinpub. hr. The ‘Irish Pub’. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem. Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep brown leather sofas comfort your weary bones, and service is prompt and courteous. The menu is a little more Croatian than one might expect - not a bad thing at all. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENG Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18 - 90kn. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music, and in case you get the munchies, Hop Devil works alongside the eatery Mezzo & Mezzo next door, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A

Casino Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, casino.fortuna@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future

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array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www. goldensuncasino.net. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on every weeknight. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

October - November 2011

What to see Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2. Trg bana Josipa Jelačića This AustroHungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching every where. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye ou t. Our c oun t’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic. Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby. St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the

Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) C-1,

Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably over whelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

Funicular

The Observatory

B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transpor tation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

(Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica. hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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What to see Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Archeological museum. The mummified body from Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna.

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,

tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11,

Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avantgarde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when artist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. U

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Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

October - November 2011

What to see The Museum of Street Art Street Ar t is well a n d t r u l y a l i ve wi th th e suburb of Dugave putting Croatia back on th e ar t map. The beginning of Septemb er will s e e t hir t y l o cal and international ar tists bring their spray cans, brush es, masks, and other hidden treasures to reveal th eir expressi ve traits. The event will in clude 3D v i d e o m a pp i n g , nylon puppet sculptures and other imaginative tri cks tha t will leave the audience spellb ound. B y Septemb er 15, Dugave will become the biggest street museum in Croatia. It is a great symposium for the revival of forgotten parts of the city, promoting trends in creating street art throughout the entire region as well as a platform for networking.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100 kuna per tour. U Marton Museum (Muzej Marton) C-1, Katarinin trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 87 00, www.muzej-marton.hr. Consider Croatia from the perspective of 18th and 19th century Central European applied arts at the country’s only private museum. While the Marton collection proudly features masterpieces by historic, regional artistisans including Meissen and

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Sèvres, all of Europe’s finest craftsmen of the period are represented in what is considered to be the world’s most extensive such selection of glass and porcelain. With prized pieces including the Vienese Abduction of Europa regularly exhibited abroad, the displays of neoclassical housewares and baroque furnishings are regularly rotating in this newly opened location in Gornji Grad’s Kulmer Palace. Inquire about guided tours, a pleasure for novices and connoisseurs alike. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 200 kuna per tour. Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.

The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) B/C-

3/4. A for ward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Maršala Tita with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac wi th i ts exquisi te Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipp e d by locals, tourists and animals of all types.

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What to see The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kuna for every 30 minutes.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2,

Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptotekaha zu@zg.t-com.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. U Typhlolog y Museum (Tif lološki muzej) D-3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, info@ tifloloskimuzej.hr, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. This brilliant museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. Special guides for the blind are available.

All Saints’ Day Th e c el ebra ti on of this, the “Day of the Dead” (Dan mrtvih), is so impressively joyous and broad in this culture we’re guessing you will be amazed. Every year on this date locals pay homage to friends and family that have died, trekking from wherever they live to the beautiful Zagreb cemetery Mirogoj in the early evening before the sun has gone down. They move as a great mass up the hill, walking together as a family or catching the never-ending line of buses that have come together to move great numbers. The candles are so numerous it creates an effect that is almost like a second sunset, the glowing, flickering beauty seen from great distances. Of course flowers appear in great number and colourful abundance also. If you’re in town this evening you absolutely must see the procession for yourself – it is both moving and tremendously beautiful. Mirogoj Cemeter y J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in th e capital city don’t mess around wi th th e h oma ge th ey pay to th eir lost loved ones. A t rip to Miro go j, Za gre b’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of th e Med vednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)

C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz. hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. U

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Zagreb City Museum

October - November 2011

Mail & Phones Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www. dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, rhea@fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel.

(+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express.hr, www. global-express.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 13 01. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. (+385-1) 461 88 70/(+385-1) 0800 303 333, zrinjevac@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous

Zagreb In Your Pocket

selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr. In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr, http:// internetcentar.iskon.hr/. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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Getting around Public transport Buses tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. You can purchase 1.5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon.

ZET Value Cards The cheapest type of tram/bus ticket is the ZET Value Card; the initial purchase costs 50kn and it is yours to keep and recharge when necessary. With the initial purchase 20kn is debited towards the production of the card leaving you with a 30kn balance, enough for 4 rides which last one and a half hour in any direction. Upon entering a tram/bus, simply place the card onto the ticket device and it will display how long the ticket is valid for whilst deducting 7.5kuna from your balance. Once the card is empty, simply recharge it with an amount of your choice at any of the ZET ticket shops.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja

Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final s ta ges of get tin g a full faceli f t, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

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Taxi Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 970, info@radiotaksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 16kn flat fee plus 6kn/km except on holidays, Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo tel. (+385-1) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.hr. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 12 12. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every 100 meters thereafter comes at a charge of 50lp, or to put it simply, 5kn per kilometer. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats for children are also available but need to be ordered in advance.

Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 07:00 - 22:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr . With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit.

www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2011

Getting around number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel.

(+385-1) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, csa.zag@globairgroup.com, www.globairgroup.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa , tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. A

Street parking

Car rental Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-) 062 22 22 26/

(+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@avis.com.hr, www. avis.com.hr. Q October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. November Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Budget D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-) 062 30 03 34/ (+385-1) 467 61 11, reservations@budget.hr, www. budget.hr. Q October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. November Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, w w w.subrosa.hr. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a Zagreb In Your Pocket

There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3).

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Shopping Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 11 41, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 659 10 50, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 -

22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Cascade C-1, Tkalčićeva 88, tel. (+385-1) 640 05 90, info@cascade.hr, www.cascade.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, www.centarkaptol.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Cvjetni C-2, Cvjetni trg, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/soping-centar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Kraš’s 100 Years!!

Welcome to the Croatian version of Charlie and the chocolate factory in KRAŠ! With all the colour, flare, succulence, and tender, lip smacking goodies that Kraš has filled the shelves of stores with worldwide; it is no wonder that the company has become a quality brand that is this year celebrating 100 years. The company’s journey first began in 1911 and over time had developed a growing number of sweet toothed devotees falling for its wide array of mouth watering delicacies including scrumptious cocoa based products, biscuits, waffles and candy. In this day and age, the Kraš factory is located near Maksimir Park and the Dinamo Zagreb Football Stadium, who by the way are playing in the Champion’s League. Kraš too is at the highest level of its league! Few can surpass one of its most famous sweets in ‘Bajadera’, a confection which has gained a worldwide reputation as an exclusive dessert. For your every day dose of rich treats, some of Kraš’s other golden gems include Griotte, Ledene kocke, Dorina, Životinjsko carstvo, Domaćice, Kiki and Bronhi bonbons. As its classical recipes have stood the test of time, Kraš is sure to keep many future generations of kids and dare we say adult chocolate lovers smiling too. So, on behalf of the IYP team, happy birthday Kraš, from the bottom of our chocoholic hearts!

www.inyourpocket.com Sunday markets Gifts & Souvenirs

Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31,

info@aromateka.hr, www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products? QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Aromatica E-2, Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 84, aromatica@aromatica.hr, www.aromatica.hr. Cool old shop features beautiful goods with scents that waft into nostrils. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina kuća C-3, Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. (+385-1) 485 25 25, 384 38 05/(+385-) 091 502 49 73, stross@ bakina-kuca.hr, www.bakina-kuca.hr. Super delicatessen, natural cosmetics and souvenirs all Made in Croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. October - November 2011

Shopping

Kobali C-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 481 28 67/ (+385-) 098 23 85 86. Beautiful hats. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Lazer Rok Lumezi C-2, Tkalčićeva 53, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 30/(+385-1) 492 16 68, llumezi@inet.hr, www. nakit-lumezi.hr. Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. His pieces could best be described as architectural jewel bugs. He cuts raw materials such as silver, amber and emeralds to show off their natural beauty, and his shapes are intriguing blends of organic and industrial. Culty - maybe. Unusual - definitely. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Mara etno butik B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, mara@etnobutik-mara.com, www.etnobutik-mara. com. A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, nc@naturacroatica.com, www. naturacroatica.hr. A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Hi, Fashion! I-GLE

Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Handmade umbrellas. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www. dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 02, www.gavrilovic.hr. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A G.E.A.Gallery C-1, Radićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 22, andrea@gallery-gea.com, www.gallery-gea.com. If you can’t make it to the rest of Croatia, this place on your way to the Stone Gate offers you something handmade from each part of the country. The staff are highly knowledgeable about the products they sell, so you’ll bring home a story or two as well as a souvenir. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A new

Jabuke & Ruže C-1, Nova Ves 6, tel. (+385-1) 466 67

47, www.jabuke-ruze.com. Apples and Roses honors the patron saint of gardeners through their offerings of local olive oils and jams in addition to an enticing selection of local and imported wines. Straight-from-the-cellar quality without the dank or the dark, a tranquil garden invites visitors to step inside the vibrant Vinoteka to savor this tribute to all that fruit can become. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Even during the most unwelcoming of weather, a stroll through the city center leaves no doubt as to the unshakable appreciation for fashion found flourishing in Zagreb. Whatever the season, shop window displays readily come to life side-by-side with classics from bigone eras on the inhabitants strolling the city’s streets. International fashion week favorites abound in shops citywide but what unique gems might the city hold for lovers of style? Local designers! Croatian creations take center stage at Fashion Days in September and Dreft’s Fashion Week in November but many local designs can also be found in boutiques just minutes away from the main square year-round. A recent interview with Designer Renata Svetić at her studio and boutique SVE (Mesnička 8) offered a glimpse into the exquisite quality and innovative stylings of Croatian design. While Svetić’s inspirations are global, her creations include a sense of the local appreciation for the fusion of urban life with seaside dreams. Her oneof-a-kind innovations include overcoats from local ships’ sails, delicate ‘Web of the Sea’ evening-wear, surprise pockets in all the right yet unexpected places and zippers designed into elegant curves along with all other manor of figure-flattering considerations. While she feels that “Inspiration is a moment,” her creations last a lifetime: Svetić’s wearable art spans from twists-on-a-modernclassic to bold and adventuresome; from daily wear to once-in-a-lifetime event regalia. Look for additional Croatian designs in shops like A’Marie (Gundulićeva 19), Boudoir (Radićeva 22) I-GLE (Dežmanov prolaz 4), Prostor (Mesnička 5) and Sheriff & Cherry (Medvedgradska 3).

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Leisure orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N

Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC

Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Iločka 30, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@zdravevibracije. hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Sport events 22.10 Saturday

The 5th Old School Invasion on Zagreb

www.citroenclub.hr. This has ‘vintage’ written all over it with car lovers jumping cues to get in. To think that the first car arrived in Zagreb 110 years ago! This old timer rally is a melting pot for enthusiasts with classics from all models and brands on show. Bring your camera for some happy snaps!

08.12 Thursday - 11.12 Sunday

The Golden Piruette

H-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 301 23 23. Balance, harmony, skill and precision are just some of the words that make figure skating look like an art. This traditional international contest attracts many young and up-coming male and female ice-skaters.

Bowling Bowling 300 Zagreb Savska opatovina 36, tel.

(+385-1) 387 90 70, info@bowling.hr, www.bowling. hr. Newly opened and boasts state of the art facilities. It’s located near the City Centre One shopping centre. The prices per lane vary from 75kn to 150kn according to the time of the day and day of the week. Children, students and those over 60 get discounts. Bowling shoes are hired and food and drinks are also available. It is possible to book online and there are pool tables at a rate of 42kn per hour. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. CityBowling Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra (Westgate shopping centre), tel. (+385-1) 411 11 00, citybowling@citybowling.hr, www.citybowling.hr. Westgate shopping centre is where you’ll find this bowling haven. Lane prices range from 70 - 150kn depending on the time of day throughout the week. Fridays and Saturdays prices are 130 - 150kn. Shoes are hired and in addition pool tables can be played at 40kn per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun

14:00 - 24:00. A Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50, info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Health

Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel.

(+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com.

Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00,

Sat, Sun by request. A

Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+385-1) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr.Q Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this. Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Pilates Body & Mind Studio Pilates H-3, Ul.grada Mainza 24, tel. (+385-1) 349 04 33/(+385-) 091 541 39 09, studio@bm-pilates.com, www.bm-pilates.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Health timeline 1355 The first time historical records mention a pharmacy in Zagreb. 1928 A pharmacy called “Kaštel” moved to Zagreb from Karlovac. In 1945 it was renamed “Pliva” Croatia’s most famous pharmaceutical company, bought by GSK in 2006. 1941 The big Rebro hospital in Zagreb was built. 1957 The first indoor swimming pool in Croatia opened, in Zagreb.

October - November 2011

Leisure Top Terme Topusko Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 16,

Topusko, tel. (+385-44) 88 60 06, info@topterme.hr, www.topterme.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Virtus Wellness Club I-3, Florijana Andrašeca 18, tel. (+385-1) 309 48 82, info@virtus-wellness.hr, www. virtus-wellness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A

Yoga Hot Yoga Centre C-1, Radićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 04 57/(+385-) 095 576 38 18, www.hotyoga.com.hr.

Q Open Mon 17:30 -18:45, Tue, Fri 11:30 - 12:45, 19:00 -

20:15, Wed 19:00 - 20:15, Thu 17:30 - 18:45, 19:00 - 20:15, Sat 11:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Football

Spa & Beauty Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović),

tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www. hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel. (+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme.hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom. com. Swimming pool, sauna, g ym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and bod y treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A Slimming Club J-3, Martićeva 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 465 08 57, marticeva@slimming-club.hr, www.slimmingclub.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Sveti Martin Spa & Golf Resort Grkaveščak b.b., Sveti Martin na Muri, tel. (+385-40) 31 50 02, info@ spa-golf.com.hr, www.toplicesvetimartin.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Terme Tuhelj Ljudevita Gaja 4, Tuhelj, tel. (+385-49) 20 37 14, info@terme-tuhelj.hr, www.terme-tuhelj.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Back in the group stages of the Champions League for the first time in more than 10 years, Dinamo Zagreb’s luck was out when the draw for the group stage was made, Dinamo being handed perhaps the toughest of all the eight groups: Real Madrid, Lyon and Ajax. What that does mean of course is that while the chances of Dinamo qualifying for the latter stages are slim, the good people of Zagreb get the chance to see some of Europe’s best players in the flesh. Real Madrid were the first visitors to the Maksimir Stadium, at the end of September, and claimed a 1-0 win. In October, Ajax visit Zagreb on the 18th, while Lyon will be in town on December 7th. Founded in 1945, Dinamo are the most famous club in the country, and the most successful, having won thirteen Croatian championships, ten Croatian Cups and four Croatian Supercups. The club has spent its entire existence in top flight, having been members of the Yugoslav First Division from 1946 to 1991, and then the Prva HNL since its foundation in 1992. In the Yugoslav era, Dinamo won four league titles. In 1963 Dinamo were the first Yugoslav club to reach the final of a European competition (the European Fairs Cup, precursor of the UEFA Cup/Europa League) when they lost 4-1 on aggregate to Valencia. In 1967 they became the first Yugoslav club to win a European competition, beating Leeds United 2-0. A club with a youth policy that delivers, Luka Modric, Eduardo and Niko Kranjcar are just three players who began their careers at the club. The club’s supporters are known as the Bad Blue Boys, a group of ultras who, while having something of a reputation for hooliganism (especially when Hajduk Split, Dinamo’s biggest rivals are the opposition) are not in reality quite as bad as many parts of the media would have you believe. They should certainly not put you off attending a game at the Maksimir.

Dinamo Zagreb Football Stadium, Maksimirska 128, dinamo@nk-dinamo.hr, www.gnkdinamo.hr.

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Lifestyle directory Language Schools

Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-

Emergency health care

Veterinary clinics

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel.

(+385-1) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 93 94 9155

zg@berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova

68, tel. (+385-1) 604 01 86/(+385-1) 604 01 87, info@ vs-grada-zagreba.hr, www.vs-grada-zagreba.hr. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. Q Open 24hrs. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovečka ulica 9, tel. (+385-1) 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story…. Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth country, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia. Moving to the new adress Palmotićeva 60 as of November. British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed. Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+385-1) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagr eb Expat Meetup w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

October - November 2011

Business directory Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovi-

ćeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen

08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UBLI savjetovanje D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Zagreb In Your Pocket

Brokerage houses

Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00, auctor@auctor.hr, www.auctor.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 77 50, hita@hita.hr, www.hita.hr. QOpen 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 58 94, brokeri@intercapital.hr, www.intercapital.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. PBZ D-3, Kralja Držislava 5, tel. (+385-1) 489 13 31, brokeri@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. (+385-1) 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija. hr, www.prva-generacija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info: 0800 18 52 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 00 80 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship

I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & translators Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17 36,

info@prevodimo.com, www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), tel. (+385-1) 639 52 95. Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. (+385-1) 309 59 15, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616

52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Business directory

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/

(+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-1) 457 21 05/(+385-1) 457 21 06, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, kingsturge@kingsturge.hr, www. kingsturge.hr. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 3 600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3 600kn and 9 000kn, 40% for net income between 9 000kn and 25 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is a Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into the regular company accounts.

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Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

October - November 2011

Street register

29. X. 1918. Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića Franje Račkog

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2 D-2

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3

Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak Paromlinska Patačićkina Pavla Hatza

E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1 C-4 D-2 D-3

Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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