i-on magazine | September 2019 by i-on Edinburgh

WIN A NEW YEAR TO REMEMBER Luxury Hogmanay experience for two at Harvey Nichols HAUTE HOTELS Dramatic destinations for your bucket list THE TASTE TEST The latest restaurants to try

EDINBURGH | GL A SGOW

SUCCESS STORIES

12 different ways to become an icon

Issue 164 / September 2019 CONTEMPORARY_SCOTLAND

CONTENTS

THE TASTE TEST The latest restaurants to try

SUCCESS STORIES

SEPTEMBER 2019 • ISSUE #164

04 Win a Hogmanay experience for two at Harvey Nichols 08 Ten Top Stories: What’s getting us talking this month 24 What it takes to become an icon: The Edinburgh institutions that have stood the test of time

Nicky Howden, Editor

HAUTE HOTELS Dramatic destinations for your bucket list

I-ON • SUCCESS STORIES

in this mon th’s issue…

WIN A NEW YEAR TO REMEMBER Luxury Hogmanay experience for two at Harvey Nichols

EDINBURGH | GL A SGOW

12 different ways to become an icon

Johnstons of Elgin. Photographer: Mark Seager, Simple Photography. Model: Nina K

40 My Style: Kipps Finlayson, the owner of Barnets and Banter Barbershop, on Japanese designers and wardrobe must-haves 42 i-on Homes: Interior designer Carley Kyle on breathing new life into an Edwardian property in Corstorphine

This month, Nicky’s all about…

50 Something old, something new: The iconic Scottish hotels to book now 54 Beauty Notes: Must-try products and treatments 58 On the Food Radar: Foodie finds, events and must-try menus 66 Insta-insider: Travel and food photographer Rachel Cohen chooses her #top9

STAYCATIONS

“You can’t beat a weekend away and I’m heading to Elie for fun, beach walks and birthday celebrations. We’ll also be making a return visit to the lovely Ship Inn, which we discovered last year.”

SHOPPING BATHROOM DESIGN

“Our ’90s style en-suite is finally getting revamped (nothing like a leak to spur you on) so I’ll be searching high and low for stylish, affordable ways to make the most of the tiny space.”

“I can’t wait to shop the new season trends. From oversized coats to slouchy boots and gorgeous accessories, I love these limited edition bags from Whistles x Mlouye collaboration available from 12 September at whistles.com.”

Directors Laura Wood, Jo Morris Design Pepe Lebron, Sam Hinks Editor Nicky Howden Features Editor Carrie Mitchell Digital Content Editor, Holly Tracey Account Director Amy Falconer Business Development Manager Amanda Southey Head of Photography Susie Lowe Photographers Cat Thomson Contributors David Pollock, Carine Seitz Published by Treacle Productions Ltd, @The Basement, 29-35b Hamilton Place, Edinburgh, Scotland, EH3 5BA, Email info@ionmagazine.co.uk, ionmagazine.co.uk, ionmembersclub.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices correct at time of going to press but are subject to change. i-on magazine cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. The views and opinions by contributors in this magazine may not represent the views of the publishers. i-on magazine takes no responsibility for claims made by advertisements in this publication. i-on is a trademark of Treacle Productions. ©Treacle Productions Ltd 2018.

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I-ON PRIZES

WIN…

a Hogmanay experience for two at Harvey Nichols

ooking to get organised and ring in the New Year in style? This month we’ve teamed up with Harvey Nichols Edinburgh to offer you the chance to win two tickets to the black tie event Hogmanay at Harvey Nichols. Promising to be a night to remember, the luxury prize includes Champagne and bagpipes on arrival, a stunning five-course dinner with paired wines, live music, ceilidh dancing, a late-night buffet and one of the best views of the renowned fireworks display at the castle.

TO ENTER

For your chance to win a luxurious Hogmanay experience for two at Harvey Nichols Edinburgh, visit ionmagazine.co.uk by noon on 23 September and leave your details. The winner will be notified by email and announced in the October edition of i-on.

Congrats to last month’s winners, Jean Turner and Joanna Robertson, who won an overnight stay in Edinburgh’s hottest new Market Street Hotel and a £500 voucher for Pringle of Scotland, 33 George Street. i-on turns 14 this month and to celebrate we’ve got a whole WEEK of birthday giveaways. Make sure you’re following us on Instagram @ion_magazine and Facebook @ionedinburgh so you don’t miss out. Trust us, they’re all great!

Terms and conditions: The prize is non-transferrable and can only be taken on 31 December 2019. There is no cash alternative. Table will be pre-booked to ensure availability. Over 18s only. For tickets or to find out more call 0131 524 8350 or visit Eventbrite.com.

Pringle of Scotland, Chinti & Parker, Queene & Belle, Veronica Beard, Huishan Zhang, Dries Van Noten, Diane Von Furstenberg WWW.JANEDAVIDSON.CO.UK

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I-ON EVENTS

ON SALE NOW

INSIDE AND OUT

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE WELLBEING EVENT OF THE MONTH. DON’T MISS OUT!

ant to know how to age gracefully and healthily inside and out? Then round up your friends and anyone else you think would benefit from finding out how to look and feel their very best. Inside and Out is a one-off, all-youneed-to-know wellbeing event, held by the fabulous Dr Nestor and his team, and it’s your chance to scoop up the absolute best advice from the very best in their field. On 28 September, one of Scotland’s best cosmetic doctors, along with a host of other top wellbeing professionals (Lifestyle Medicine, fitness, nutrition, psychology, yoga and mindfulness) will give us the proper lowdown on how to make age just a number, all served up with a large dose of fun. You’re guaranteed leave a fount of knowledge on how to look good, feel good, and how to eat your way to better health. We say just do it…. you know you’re worth it. Inside and Out takes place on Saturday 28 September (12-5pm) at Intercontinental Edinburgh The George. Tickets are £10 and include one glass of Prosecco and canapes, a goody bag, and first-hand advice from the professionals. For tickets, visit ion.ticketbud.com. Dr Nestor’s Medical and Cosmetic Centre, 53 Dundas St, EH3 6RS, www.drnestor.co.uk.

WHAT’S ON FIVE SPECIALIST TOPICS • How to look great for your years. • How to be healthier by using food as a means of medication. • How to add exercise to your weekly routine when you don’t have time. • How to reduce stress and anxiety. • The benefits of yoga and mindfulness and the importance of switching off. SPEED DATE THE DOCTOR A personal, five-minute one-to-one with your doctor of choice. SKIN DEMOS The latest no-downtime, lunchtime peel, ZO that stimulates cellular turnover, reduces fine lines, and improves all over texture. PRIZE DRAW Win a course of three carbon peels and a Stimlulator peel, valued at £440

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T IN SEPT U O B A G IN K L A T E ’R E WHAT W

ES C A L P NEW INE OUT TO D MONTH THIS

Kohi at YOTEL Edinburgh

EM BER

Tattu will open soon in the newly refurbished Mint Building

izza loving locals will be delighted to learn that Leithbased east PIZZAS has unveiled a second branch on Morningside Road. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5pm ‘til late, expect the same great sourdough and locally sourced ingredients as the original Commercial Street restaurant. Just down the road in Tollcross, you’ll find Tables at Bennets, a pop-up bar and dining area located in the old La Petite Mort and offering everything from Scottish light bites to hearty pub grub. Over on The Mound, The Scottish Café and Restaurant has finally re-opened its doors following an extensive seven-month refurbishment. The menu showcases the very best seasonal and local Scottish produce as well as tempting treats like home-baked cakes and High Tea for two. PIGGS on Canongate is another new opening in the heart of the Old Town. The food and wine bar combines authentic Spanish tapas with local Scottish produce. Think IJ Mellis cheeseboards and classic bocadillos. For good coffee, freshly baked pastries, crisp salads and hearty sandwiches, head over to Kohi at YOTEL Edinburgh on Queen Street and you’ll find a new bright and airy cafe serving locals and travellers.

FEATURES

Bar Brett © Claire Irwin

The Scottish Café and Restaurant

Looking ahead, we’re counting down the days until Tattu opens in October, in the newly refurbished Mint Building on West Register Street. Diners can expect a twist on modern Chinese cuisine and plenty of insta-worthy opportunities from the dishes and interiors. Meanwhile in Glasgow, there’s plenty to get excited about too. For tacos and tunes, hit up Mezcal on Hope Street. The Mexican taqueria and cantina bar hosts live DJ sets from Thursday to Saturday. Feel like upping your five-a-day? Head to Civic House Canteen on Civic Street where you can get a nutritious, plantbased lunch for a fiver and take part in a whole range of food and cooking workshops too. Over on Great Western Road, you’ll find wholesome new wine bar and eatery Bar Brett which specialises in sustainably sourced wine and small sharing plates of fresh shellfish, charcuterie and cheeses. Whilst in Finnieston, a new Turkish restaurant is due to move into the space formerly occupied by The Kitchen café on 1032 Argyle Street.

Meze Meze will serve a mix of traditional Persian and Turkish dishes cooked on a charcoal grill as well as flavourful modern reinterpretations. Rumour has it Paesano Pizza is also eyeing up a new base, soon to be called Sugo, in the Lighthouse Building. No confirmed opening yet but watch this space.

Meze Meze

Paesano Pizza fire-wood oven

G… N I K N I R D E B D L SHOU U O Y S L I A T K C O THE C TS E EXPER

E ASK TH

HES, W APPROAC AIL WEEK OGY T L K O C IX O C M URGH ORLD OF W E H T AS EDINB IN SHAKING WHAT’S

Sober sipping Whisky galore

It’s a rum ting

“Rum is such a diverse and exciting spirit which finally has come to the forefront in cocktail culture. This is down both to the talent of distillers and of the bartenders. We’ll always have a soft spot for rum in Tiki drinks but it’s great to see it making an appearance in more complex, sipping cocktails, where you can really appreciate the quality of the liquid. For cocktail week we’ve paired Don Q Golden rum with a Brazilian banana liquer and added grapefruit, mango and lime for our fruioty cocktail, Fortune and Glory, Kid.” Linden Wilkinson, The Pop Up Geeks

“Whisky is being used more in cocktails due to an increased brand awareness and the prevalence of more neutral tasting spirit which helps mixologists create more adventurous cocktails. Also, the dive bar scene has brought back the era of prohibition when a large amount of these cocktails were invented, like the classic Old Fashioned.” Martin Harvey, Whiski Rooms

Dairy-free drinks

“We’ve seen a big increase in customers asking for vegan cocktails so we decided to remove egg white as an ingredient from our list altogether. Instead we use Aquafaba (chickpea water), which gives a better foam, provides the drink with great balance and can be enjoyed by everyone.” Jide Sosimi, The Lioness of Leith

“It seems sober is the new black as people are becoming increasingly mindful of their health. As the founder of the world’s first non-alcoholic spirit Seedlip, over the last four years, I’ve gone from just me in my kitchen to a team of 65 globally and we have continued to pioneer with launches including N o l o Bar, The Seedlip Cocktail Book, A Seedlip General Store, and the world’s first NOgroni, which will be available at 18 bars across the city during Edinburgh Cocktail Week.” Ben Branson, Founder & CEO, Seedlip

Edinburgh Cocktail Week returns from 14 - 20 October with a new Cocktail Forest, Rooftop Cocktail Domes at The Glasshouse Hotel and an expanded Cocktail Village at Festival Square. Wristbands are on sale now at edinburghcocktailweek.co.uk, priced from just £6.

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FEATURES

BIG SCREEN A BONANZ

IF YOU LOVE A NIGHT AT THE FLICKS BUT FANCY SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT, YOU’RE IN FOR A TREAT THIS MONTH

FOR THE FANCIEST FILM EXPERIENCE…

The Scotsman hotel has lifted the curtain on one of the most beautiful cinemas we’ve ever seen. Decked out in red leather and velvet with wood panelling and ornate Edwardian cornicework, The Scotsman Picturehouse offers a luxurious boutique setting to catch a movie and promises a diverse programme of new releases, old classics, cult favourites and live screenings of ballets, operas and cultural events. For the ultimate treat, book one of the film packages, from £19.95, which include ‘Brunch and a Blockbuster’ and ‘Afternoon Tea and a Matinee’. Full listings at scotsmanpicturehouse.co.uk.

FOR LOVERS OF THE DEEP BLUE SEA…

The Ocean Film Festival World Tour arrives in Edinburgh with another selection of short films with a seafaring theme. “From surfers to fisherman, and marine scientists to artists, these films feature fascinating characters who have dedicated their lives to the sea’s salt spray,” says tour director Nell Teasdale. One such character is Surfer Dan, who lives on the shores of Lake Superior in Michigan. Catch his story and many others on 14 September at the Festival Theatre. Book tickets £16.50, at oceanfilmfestival.co.uk.

FOR KUNG FU FANS…

Scotland’s first ever Kung Fu Film Festival is kicking off in Summerhall with high octane screenings of the genre’s biggest hits including Bruce Lee’s Enter the Dragon, Jackie Chan’s hilarious breakthrough Drunken Master, Ang Lee’s award-winning Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and Jet Li’s Hero, the first Chinese-language film to go to number one at the US box office. As well as live Q&A’s on the art and science of Kung Fu, there will be a chance to have a go yourself with introductory martial arts classes from White Crane Scotland and Suffrajitsu, who run self defense classes for women in Edinburgh. From 16 to 22 September. Book tickets (all £6) at summerhall.co.uk.

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WHERE YOUR TO GETRE FIX CULTU MUSIC >> Fly Open Air Festival is inviting revellers to join the party on 21 and 22 September at Ross Bandstand on Princes Street. Featuring homegrown Scottish talent alongside touring favourites - Jayda G and DJ Boring - the festival boasts a first-rate roster of DJs performing under the shadow of Edinburgh castle. Day tickets from £45. flyopenair.co.uk THEATRE >> Critically-acclaimed production Black Men Walking tells the compelling story of three men who meet every month as part of a walking group in Yorkshire’s scenic Peak District. Join them on their most dramatic trip yet as they’re forced to walk backwards through 2,000 years of Black history. Catch the Scottish premiere at Tron Theatre in Glasgow from 05 September or join the Edinburgh audience at The Traverse from 18 to 21 September. eclipsetheatre.org.uk LITERATURE >> Whether you’ve just discovered it on Netflix or you’re a proud owner of all the novels, fans of Tales of the City should move fast to book tickets to Armistead Maupin’s Edinburgh tour date at the Queens Hall on 10 October. The much-loved, best-selling author and LGBT activist will recount his favourite tales from the past four decades, offering his own engaging observations on society and the world we live in. faneproductions.com ART >> To mark the culmination of Scotland’s WW1 centenary programme, artists as young as 14 have contributed pieces for a new exhibition at the Scottish Parliament from 03 to 20 September. Entitled What Do We Learn From All Th1s?, the installation of 100 unique prints combines traditional printmaking with innovative technologies to tell Scotland’s WW1 story. ww100scotland.com

SEE ATISH SCOT C ICON MUSI

Former Eurythmics singer Annie Lennox will stage her first publicly available Scottish show in a decade at Glasgow’s SEC Armadillo on 26 September. Named as one of The 100 Greatest Singers of All Time by Rolling Stone, Lennox has won more Brit Awards than any other female artist in history (eight in total), four Grammys, four Ivor Novellos, an Academy Award and a Golden Globe, amongst many more accolades. This special one-off show offers a rare opportunity to see Annie live and to hear fascinating stories from her incredible life. For tickets to Annie Lennox – An Evening of Music and Conversation, visit sec.co.uk/ AnnieLennox or call 0844 395 4000

The Edinburgh Cup returns to Musselburgh Racecourse on Saturday 14 September for the biggest raceday of the autumn season. As well as top class horse racing, there’ll be live music from Blondie tribure band Dirty Harry on the new Courtyard stage, a selection of Scotland’s finest street food vendors, locally-brewed craft beers and botanical-inspired cocktails from the likes of Caledonian Brewery and the Edinburgh Gin Tipple Trailer. With so much going on, you won’t want the fun to end... And it doesn’t have to stop there. Musselburgh Racecourse has partnered up with some of Edinburgh’s top nightclubs to transport race-goers to George Street where you can party the night away. For tickets and information on special Raceday packages including gourmet food and drink, visit musselburghracecourse.co.uk.

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eauty b e h t f o e Is the fac t to change u salon abo #trending forever?

f Roz Colthart’s latest venture is anything to go by then the answer is yes. She’s already been nominated as a finalist in the 2019 Scottish Women’s Awards Beauty Entrepreneur of the Year and that’s because her idea is a really good one. Roz has brought a taste of the USA to Scotland with the opening of her first Salon Studios salon in Corstorphine and plans to open several more across the country in 2020. Succinctly, consider Salon Studios as a shopping centre for beauty, wellness and hair professionals. Instead of retail outlets, inside you’ll find a community of top-of-their-game hair and beauty experts all doing their own thing in designated salons spaces. They’ve all taken up residence for the price they would pay to rent a chair in someone else’s salon but here, it’s their own business name and vision that hangs above the door. “What I saw in the American version were happy salon owners able to focus on what they loved without getting caught up in day-to-day management issues like staffing, paying bills or worrying about cash flow,” Roz explains. The first (and presently only) company in the UK to do this, Salon Studios is turning the traditional idea of salon ownership on its head. It offers six, individual mini-salons under one roof, each a stylishly furnished, blank canvas where professionals can make their own mark, choose their own products, work their own hours and make their own rules. It’s the perfect stepping-stone for people who are desperate to start their own business but can’t afford the outlay, both upfront and ongoing. “Salon Studios is a mix of all the best bits I saw in the States,” Roz continues. “Our salon owners don’t have to worry about paying utility bills, rates, legal fees, wi-fi, waste collection and more. With one weekly flat fee they know the amount they need to pay and have the space and creativity to focus on their own business…If they’re happy, we’re happy too.”

•

If you’re a seriously talented hair, beauty or wellness professional who wants to set up on your own and would like to be part of the Salon Studios community, get in touch at salonstudios.co.uk

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on you i t i b i ss xh The e want to mi don’t There’s still time to see Cut and Paste: 400 Years of Collage, the first ever survey exhibition of collage to take place anywhere in the world. It showcases more than 250 works and a huge variety of styles and techniques, from 16th century anatomical ‘flap prints’ to computer-based images, collages by children and revolutionary cubist masterpieces by Pablo Picasso and Juan Gris. Highlights include a three-metre-long folding collage screen, purportedly made in part by Charles Dickens, and major post war work by Andy Warhol. Runs until 27 October 2019 at Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Modern Two), 73 Belford Rd, Edinburgh. Tickets from £11-13 (concessions available, free for under 12s). nationalgalleries.org

Annegret Soltau, GRIMA Self with cat (three screams), 1986

Jim Lambie, Sticky Fingers, 2010

Henri Matisse, Le Clown

Pablo Picasso, Bouteille et Verre sur un table, 1912.

SUBLIME O N E W O R D TO E X P R E S S YO U R W E D D I N G T H E G R E AT E S T O F A L L D AY S Weddings and Civil Par tnerships at Hotel d u V in Ed inbu rgh pro vid e the per f ect b ac kdrop as you glide elegantl y from ce re mony to ce lebr ation and be yond â&#x20AC;&#x201C; al l orc hestr ated fl awlessl y by you r own pe rsonal wed d ing planner. S peak to us today about arr anging a hotel tou r and enjoy a complimentar y glass of Champagne. Join us at our Edinburgh Wedding Showcase on Sunday 15th September 2019, 12pm-4pm Please email events.edinburgh@hotelduvin.com to RSVP.

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9 S BRADLEY WIGGIN

IF THERE’S A LEGACY FROM WHAT I HAVE DONE IT’S WITH HELPING YOUNG PEOPLE DEVELOP AN INTEREST IN CYCLING AND GETTING OUT THERE ON BIKES” THE OLYMPIC ATHLETE TALKS TO NEIL BARSTON AHEAD OF HIS TOUR DATE IN EDINBURGH THIS MONTH

“C

ycling is all that I have ever known,” admits Sir Bradley Wiggins, the man who stands as the UK’s most decorated Olympic athlete. The celebrity status which followed his unprecedented back-to-back victory at the Tour de France and London Olympics in 2012 may not have sat entirely comfortably with him, but the wider effect of ‘Wiggo’s win’ was clearly tangible. Cycling in the UK has enjoyed a significant resurgence and is showing no sign of subsiding. “For many kids there’s a lot that keeps them indoors… If there’s a legacy from what I have done it’s with helping young people develop an interest in cycling and getting out there on bikes,” says the former Olympian. Born in Ghent, Belgium, Bradley moved to London with his mother when his father, (also a cyclist), left the family. “In a weird way, my father is still my hero. I’ve kept two of his riding jerseys, though I detested the man, as he left us when I was just a baby. But my mum glorified him so if it hadn’t been for her, then I wouldn’t have had my career.” As a 12-year-old, this kid from Kilburn took up cycling on the same south London circuit his dad had once ridden, setting him on a path to an eventual sporting career. He earned his spurs in the early days as a track specialist, before turning to road racing, gaining his biggest victories and a major international profile when he joined Team Sky in 2010. “I know that it does mean a lot to other people that I won the tour and Olympics in 2012, but I wouldn’t be a very good person if those were the things that were the most important to me in my life,” reflects Wiggins. Find out more insights into his eventful career at Bradley Wiggins: An Evening With UK tour, Edinburgh Festival Theatre on Saturday 21 September. Tickets from £32.50 via Myticket.co.uk

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10 WHAT IT TAKES TO BECOME AN ICON… WE ASKED SOME OF THE CAPITAL’S MOST SUCCESSFUL NAMES HOW THEY’VE ACHIEVED THEIR STATUS AS AN EDINBURGH INSTITUTION

’VISION’ says cheesemaker IJ MELLIS

“

’COURAGE’ says Victoria Houghton, CEO of Hamilton & Inches

“

Robert Kirk Inches and his uncle James Hamilton opened the first Hamilton & Inches store on Edinburgh’s Princes Street in May 1866. The vision was to be the premiere destination for fine jewellery, luxury watches and hand-crafted silver. The granting of our Royal Warrant over 120 years ago was definitely a sign of success, however the brand is still evolving. I have never been risk-averse and when I joined Hamilton & Inches as non-executive last year, I could see the opportunity to boldly evolve this prestigious brand into an aspirational and successful business for the 21st century. Our iconic Edinburgh store is changing to become a contemporary, luxury destination. The refurbishment and redesign starts early next year. Whilst preserving the beauty and history of our showroom, we want to make it more open and welcoming with a contemporary feel and a real focus on the client’s journey.”

When we launched in the spring of 1993, the vision was to start a specialist cheese shop, to buy from small scale producers, and to look after and mature the cheese to the best of my ability as a cheesemaker. If I had to advise another business starting out, I would say don’t follow fashion, try and create your own. Over the years, we’ve tried to keep ahead of the game and adapt to meet our customers’ needs. Our shop layouts have changed to break down the barrier between the customer and the staff member. We have started importing natural and bio dynamic wines to our range and we are also in the middle of creating cheese and wine areas/cafes, to make it even more of an experience within the stores.”

’DETERMINATION’

says chef and restaurateur Martin Wishart

“

I opened Restaurant Martin Wishart in March 1999 after a three-year search for the right site in Edinburgh while I was still working in London. Starting my own business back home was something I had long dreamed about so I had set a personal plan to work in the top three restaurants in the UK, with the final goal of returning to Edinburgh to establish my own restaurant. Many people ask me why I chose to open in Leith. It’s a simple answer: with only £7,000 of savings, it was all I could afford. But I’ve always believed that Leith and The Shore is a special place. When we finally opened the doors, the cooking was the easy part; getting the business off the ground was more challenging. With a strong will and determination to succeed, the restaurant started to flourish and after six months, we had over a month waiting list for tables. Within 18 months, we were awarded a Michelin star - the very first restaurant in Edinburgh to be given that accolade. We haven’t looked back.”

’INTEGRITY’ says Jennifer Cheyne OBE of Cheynes Hairdressing

“

Cheynes was launched in August 1976 - 43 years ago and we still have an amazing team of skilled, passionate individuals, many who have been with us over 20 and 30 years. Our vision was always to train everyone to be the very best they could possibly be, to encourage individuality and creativity, to treat everyone as we would expect to be treated ourselves, and to run a very successful and honest business. It was also important to us to have fun and laughter every day. We realised we were different when we were asked to do shows all over the world to teach hairdressers ‘The Cheynes Way.’ Our USP was that we had a fabulous training programme within our salons, so 30 years ago we launched ‘Cheynes Training’ to the hairdressing industry and we now have 42 Academies in the UK. We have trained many thousands of young people as our goal is to help young people to achieve qualifications in hairdressing and help make everyone in the industry proud of their profession. We have secured our future by ensuring the business is in great hands. Salon Directors, Leadership Teams and Trainers run each salon, setting the standards, including the team in decision making and encouraging passion and innovation.”

’INNOVATION’ says Fiona Fowley of Zen Lifestyle

“

I launched Zen Lifestyle in November 1999 so we’re 20 years old this year. Back then, most salons were pretty old fashioned and there was clearly a need for innovation and a different approach to beauty in Scotland. I launched with just one therapist (myself) and within nine months I had a team of seven. By our second Christmas, we had queues for Zen vouchers – it was then I knew we were offering something people wanted. The business has evolved to keep us ahead of industry trends and to offer clients the most up-to-date treatments and state-of-the-art technology. You have to be open to change, ensure you keep moving forward and always keep learning about your industry - you can’t afford to stand still or you get left behind.

Photography: Ruth Armstrong

’DEDICATION’ says Philip Contini of Valvona & Crolla

“

This month is the 85th anniversary of our family business in Edinburgh. Originally started in 1934 by two Italian immigrants, Ralf Valvona and my maternal grandfather, Alfonso Crolla, the business imported Italian food and wine for the growing Italian community, as well as equipment for their ice cream and fish & chip shops. Things quickly expanded and in 1936 they moved from the first premises in the Pleasance to the current shop in Elm Row. Just four years later, Italy and Britain went to war. Italians in Scotland were arrested and put into camps on the Isle of Man or deported to Canada or Australia. Some died, including my grandfather, on the SS Arandora Star which was sunk by a UBoat on 2 July 1940. When Alfonso’s two sons, Domenico and Vittorio, returned home in 1945 and reopened the Valvona & Crolla shop, they were welcomed back, not only by Italians but also new Scottish customers. It was then that they knew the business could be a success. The company has always been a trend-setter, offering newly discovered produce to our customers. We began bottling our own wine in the 1950s, and our own extra virgin olive oil in the 1970s. We began roasting our own coffee in the same decade and we were among the first to sell balsamic vinegar and Prosecco in Edinburgh. In the 1980s, we established our specialisation in Italian wines then in 1992, we extended the shop premises to double the size, eventually creating a 70seat theatre and becoming a venue for the Edinburgh Fringe. From wine tastings and cookery demonstrations to art exhibitions and live jazz, we want to offer our customers everything that we enjoy ourselves and satisfy as many of the senses as possible. Running a business is a vocation. It is all-consuming. If you are not prepared to dedicate yourself completely then don’t do it.”

’INVESTMENT’ says

David Wither, Chairman of the Montpeliers Group

“

’STRATEGY’ says

Sarah Murray of Jane Davidson

“

Jane Davidson was launched by my mother, Jane, in 1969 in the Grassmarket. The original shop was decorated like a French Salon, the clothes were kept in wardrobes and all the brands were British and high-end, including names like Ozzie Clark, Jean Muir and Jean Varon. When the business moved to bigger premises in Thistle Street 35 years ago, we were the first boutique in the area. Fashion had changed and was more about continental brands and mix and match collections. More women were purchasing career-wear alongside special occasion pieces and we adapted to meet their needs. These days, the way we shop has changed again – we now sell online, on Instagram and Facebook and on marketplaces such as Atterley. But our loyal customers remain at the heart of what we do. We send boxes of suggestions out to time-poor clients. I visit houses to do wardrobe cleanses. It’s important to always have a very clear strategy as to who your customer will be and how you will look after them then be prepared to change this as you -and they- evolve.”

When we first launched in April 1992 with the opening of Montpeliers Bar & Brasserie in Bruntsfield, it was Edinburgh’s first bar and bistro combined. I was confident in our vision but I did worry that we would never get it up and running in the first place given the licensing, planning, funding and acquisition challenges we faced. When we got past those hurdles, we could see people liked what we were doing and knew we had a successful business so long as we kept innovating and investing. Edinburgh is a fairly compact city which allows you to quickly understand and appreciate what the various market places are looking for then react accordingly. The secret to success is to work hard, innovate, invest and never become complacent or arrogant.”

’PASSION’ says

Shanta Dhariwal of Galerie Mirages

“ ’EMPATHY’

says Richard Laing of Laings Jeweller

“

Laings is Scotland’s oldest family owned jeweller and, as the sixth generation Laing, I am incredibly proud of our family business history. We’ve had showrooms in Glasgow since 1914 and my father (fifth generation Laing) opened our store in Edinburgh’s Frederick Street in the 1970s. It was always my father’s dream to open a store on George Street, which we managed to do by moving to the prime location of the corner of George Street and Frederick Street in 2015 and becoming the largest jewellery store in Scotland. I always say we’re in the ‘emotional business’, as we look after our clients for their special milestones in their lives - engagements, weddings, anniversaries, birthdays, and the romantic ‘just because’ presents. With so many feelings involved in some of these purchases, it is important to have a level of sensitivity and empathy. I’ve worked in our stores since school and being a part of new chapters in our customers’ lives is so rewarding.”

My mother, Sheila, opened Galerie Mirages in Stockbridge in 1987. The vision for the business was to bring all the beautiful jewellery and crafts that we had seen on our travels in Africa and Asia to Edinburgh, and to buy ethically whenever possible. We were never driven by striving for success. We have just been totally committed to our vision and to our customers, always feeling passionate about what we do and hoping that comes across.”

’CREATIVITY’ says

Jason Miller of Charlie Miller

“

In 1965, our parents Charlie and Janet opened their first salon in a small housing estate in Prestonfield Avenue. Having trained as a barber, Charlie honed his skills to offer the most up-to-date styles to his male clients and as word spread, the ladies of the city noticed and the business started to offer styling for both. The business went from strength to strength. In the mid-’70s we put on a hair show at London’s Salon International which put us on the international hairdressing map. We started doing photographic hair shoots in the ‘80s and, over the years, have been awarded numerous hairdressing awards. The Charlie Miller name was and still is synonymous with style and creativity.”

’CONSISTENCY’

says Michael Apter, MD of Paper Tiger

“

Since we launched back in 1981, we have survived recessions, tram works (!), and competition from other businesses, but the Paper Tiger name remains well known in Edinburgh and beyond. We have survived by ensuring that our product range is flexible and responsive, without pandering to fads. We stay up-to-date with technology and we never stand still in terms of how we engage with our customers - our presentation and striking window displays, our customer service, our events and instore activities. You need to interrogate your business model on a regular basis, remain relevant, take responsibility, and stay true to your core beliefs and intentions for the business. Compromise is the devil talking.”

’COMMUNICATION’

says Pippa Phillips, marketing director of Real Foods

“

Our first shop opened in Edinburgh in 1975 on Morrison Street and was apparently so small only two customers at a time could fit in it. When the queues outside were just too big to deal with, our shop on Broughton Street was opened and a few years after that our Tollcross shop. One of the best things any business can do is stay in touch with their customers and provide what they need. As those needs change, what you provide also needs to change. It’s tracking what those changes are and consistently making sure those needs are met which is both challenging and exciting. That’s how we’ve changed and stayed ahead of the game.”

FUTURE ICONS

OUR INTERVIEWEES PREDICT THE BUSINESSES SET FOR BIG THINGS… FHIOR “They are doing something very special with Scottish produce and cuisine; have a great team and business ethos; and I really admire the way they present the food and restaurant.” Michael Apter IAN SMITH DESIGN “An unsung icon in interior design who unlocks the potential in all projects with a quality stamp, including this year’s latest addition to the Caledonian Sleeper train fleet.” Jason Miller FINGAL “This project from the team at the Royal Yacht Britannia has quickly established itself as one of the leading hotels in Edinburgh. Seeing the finished product has been inspiring, with the level of attention to detail and quality finish.” Victoria Houghton ANDREW BROOKES TAILORING “The garments which come out of his tailoring and design studio are amazing. He’s the only tailor to have launched a collection of fully customisable separates and he always puts the customer first.” Richard Laing CHEEKY CHOMPERS “An amazing local business that designs and manufactures innovative products for babies, they have achieved so much in the past five years, even winning the Queens Award for Enterprise.” Fiona Fowley

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2019

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GALERIE MIRAGES For over 30 years specialists in unique jewellery and world interiors

46a Raeburn Place, Edinburgh, EH4 1HL www.galeriemirages.com

TH E

DROP YOUR NEED-TO-KNOW FASHION NEWS

PRECIOUS PIECES?

If you’re looking to have expensive jewellery valued in the comfort (and security) of your own home, luxury jewellers Laings has the answer with its new Home Valuation service. It’s carried out by in-house Institute Registered Valuer (IRV), Sammantha Maclachlan, to the highest standards required by the NAJ’s IRV. For more information, email valuations@laingsuk.com

BRAND OF THE MONTH NEUL

WHAT IS IT? A contemporary womenswear label based in Verona.

WHERE DO YOU GET IT? Frontiers Woman, Stafford Street, Edinburgh.

WHY WE RATE IT... The latest addition to Frontiers’ impeccably curated selection of brands, Neul is all about timeless style with a modern twist. Rather than following fashion trends, design duo Jun and Joy seek to create pieces which will never go out of style. The inspiration behind the collection is an imaginary ‘City girl’ the designers dreamt up to help them create a chic, wearable collection. Top of our wish list for Autumn Winter is one of the fabulous faux fur coats, £409, which have just landed in store.

Italian style Max Mara’s first UK store outside London has opened on Edinburgh’s Multrees Walk. The boutique carries the latest lust-worthy collections across all core brands including Max Mara, Sportmax, ’S Max Mara, Weekend Max Mara, as well as accessories and sunglasses from the prestigious Italian fashion house. gb.maxmara.com

FASHION

WARDROBE WIZARDRY

Edinburgh’s pretty proud of its status as the birthplace of Harry Potter so we’re certain the new Potter-inspired collection for Mini Boden will be popular. The 81-piece collection will run from newborn to 16 years, arriving in October. boden.co.uk/en-gb/harry-potter

FIVE MINUTES WITH…

KAREN MABON THE AWARD-WINNING SCOTTISH ACCESSORY DESIGNER RENOWNED FOR HER PRINTED SILK SCARVES When did the label launch? In 2013, after I graduated from London’s Royal College of Art. At the time, a lot of textile prints on the high street were quite derivative and I saw a gap in the market for something different. What started as a small line of five silk scarves has now expanded to include homeware, womenswear and sleepwear which is stocked all over the world. What part do you play in the business? Everything is designed by me, from the prints and patterns to the shapes of the garments, then the pieces are made in a small, family-run mill in Italy. You now live in London. Why did you make the move from Edinburgh? Love. Everyone thinks it was for my business but when I studied and lived in Edinburgh, I thought it was the most brilliant and supportive place to incubate a business. Thankfully, I still have an office there too.

#FollowFriday

@thegirlwiththebighair

Glasgow based blogger Yasmin covers street style, beauty and travel. She recently tied the knot in Italy so you can also get some wedding inspo on the blog too.

Tell us something surprising about the brand? I originally called it something else because I didn’t want anyone to know it was me. It was only when Liberty of London bought my collection that I began to use my own name. The creative director, Ed Burstell, told me customers would relate better to a woman’s name and I’ve never looked back. Anything we should look out for? My new range with the French department store Monoprix launches in December. It’s the first time I’ve ever designed children’s clothes and a full womenswear collection and it’s been a real labour of love. Shop the full collection at karenmabon.com

SPONSORED FEATURE

Take Three INTRODUCING THE NEW CAPSULE COLLECTIONS FROM JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN TO KEEP YOU LOOKING EFFORTLESSLY STYLISH THIS SEASON. HERE’S WHAT TO EXPECT…

Sartorial Chesterfield top coat, £1,295, 100% lambswool, £ 1,295, from the Modern Heritage collection

Dropping this month

The Modern Heritage collection takes traditional designs in a new direction, introducing innovative fabrics and reimagined silhouettes. Vibrant greens and blues make a statement against deeper autumnal hues, while unique finishing touches showcase exceptional craftsmanship. Double face cashmere coats drape beautifully, offering timeless elegance with contemporary edge.

Camel moss stitch turtle neck sweater, 100% cashmere, £995, from the Effortless Everyday collection

Hand Intarsia Aeroplane shawl collar cardigan, 100% cashmere, £1,998; Aeroplane tissue print art deco scarf, 100% cashmere, £750, from the Stylish Traveller collection

New in store

The 1920s and ’30s transformed travel, with post-war technologies making global adventures an exciting new prospect. Inspired by this golden age, Johnston of Elgin’s Stylish Traveller collection features unique lightweight pieces, perfect for the modern adventurer. Deep hues and elegant silhouettes are at the centre of this collection, in doubleface matte cashmere, tissue weight cashmere and extra fine merino wool.

Arriving October

The Effortless Everyday capsule collection features ribbed detailing, intarsia knits and striking pops of lava orange to take you from fireside to hillside. Chic neutrals in the softest cashmere and daring, vibrant accessories combine luxury, warmth and style. Visit the flagship store on Edinburgh’s Multrees Walk or shop online at johnstonsofelgin.com

THE HOME OF DESIGNER BRANDS IN THE HEART OF EDINBURGH THE VERY ESSENCE OF LUXURY SHOPPING AND HOME TO E XC LUS I V E FAS H I O N AND LIFESTYLE BRANDS. HARVEY NICHOLS, MAX MARA, M U L B E R RY, LO U I S V U I T TO N , B U R B E R RY, B O S S , JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN AND MORE.

MULTREESWALK • WWW.MULTREESWALK.CO.UK • ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH EH1 3DQ

FASHION

ecrets of a hopper Personal S

WHISTLES PERSONAL SHOPPING MANAGER AIMEE WHITEHOUSE REVEALS ALL…

Style and fashion can be quite different. If you have an idea of what suits you, it will always be relevant but it’s good to embrace change and find elements of new trends that can work for you. Personal shopping is perfect for people who are time-poor or would just like a fresh perspective. Whether you have a big event to attend or a lifestyle change coming up, like returning to work after maternity leave, we can help you create a capsule wardrobe or pick out some key outfits to update your current wardrobe. The idea is to make the shopping experience enjoyable and take the stress out of it. As a stylist I’m totally led by the customer. I can be there to advise, guide and be a cheerleader for things I think they look great in, but ultimately it has to work for the client and their lifestyle. If something feels risky, we break it down. Where will you be wearing it? What else can we team it with? Can we dress it up or down? I’m here to give my customer the confidence to wear something rather than convince them to buy it. And if they get home and it’s not right, we can always return it and find them something else.

Twig print bias cut skirt, £129

Good coats, quality knitwear, premium shoes and bags are the pieces to invest in. Timeless items that you can keep forever. Then you can update your wardrobe with new colours, prints and accessories to keep things fresh. Accessories are very personal. I’m pretty minimal in my approach to jewellery but never underestimate the power of a statement earring! It’s an easy way to dress up any outfit. The big trend we’re seeing for the new season is exaggerated sleeves and shoulders on pretty much everything. It’s a really easy trend to tap into, whilst adding a subtle statement to your look. A cashmere sweater is top of my shopping list for the AW collection at Whistles. The fabric is just so luxurious and makes an everyday sweater feel special. I’ve just bought our new hiking boots too, so I will be stomping around in those all winter, and teaming both with our bias-cut silky skirts or our tailored trousers. For a personal shopping appointment at Whistles, email personalshopping@whistles.co.uk. For exclusive news of upcoming personal shopping events at Whistles’ Edinburgh and Glasgow stores, sign up to our newsletter at ionmagazine.co.uk.

Cashmere roll neck sweater, £195

Resin drop earrings, £35

Amber lace up boots, £185

Seasons A U T U M N

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FEATURES

MYSTYLE

Kipps Finlayson THE OWNER OF BARNETS AND BANTER BARBERSHOP ON JAPANESE DESIGNERS, SHOREDITCH HIPSTERS AND WARDROBE MUST-HAVES

MY SIGNATURE STYLE At the moment, I’d say it’s American BBQ Dad meets Shoreditch hipster. I like to wear Japanese Selvedge relaxed fit denims (I’m trying to stay away from the skinny fit) or cotton high waisted trousers rolled up to show off my socks. I team the trousers with white or black cotton t-shirts either from Uniqlo or Gap - simple, comfortable and breathable clothing whilst cutting hair is a must. FASHION INSPIRATION In the past, it’s mostly come from movies, in particular sci-fi, and also 1980s electronic music. However more recently I’ve been spending a lot of time in East London where there is a diverse melting pot of cultures and lifestyle which has led to my newfound love of Japanese fashion. STYLE ICONS I’ve always been a fan of Brad Pitt. Besides being an excellent actor, he exudes class and gets better with age. Richard Biedul (pictured left) is a model friend of mine who’s a cool, super stylish guy too. WARDROBE MUST-HAVES I’m obsessed with the Japanese sock brand Ro To To. Get a pair they will change your life. I’ve also just ordered a new Instrmnt Divers watch (pictured far left) from their Kickstarter fund page which I’m excited to see. And the

new Shop Coat by Kestin Hare is on point. My pop-up unisex barbershop operates within Kestin’s menswear stores in Leith and Shoreditch so there is constant temptation to shop. MY ADDRESS BOOK I just love what Kestin Hare is doing for the Scottish/UK fashion. He’s a real pioneer, especially in the way he collaborates with other brands. I also love Sunnysiders in Shoreditch which has a great selection of bespoke Japanese designers like Fujito, Avontade and Still By Hand. THE ULTIMATE ACCESSORY Your hair. From the quiff of the ’50s through to the mullet of the ’70s and modern skin fades of our current decade, hair has defined the decades. It should never be separated from fashion. You can make a statement or have a more subdued style to complement your overall look. Follow Kipps on Instagram @kippsfinlayson

BRANDS

CIRCOLO DIVERSO OLIVER SWEENEY DUNO SMEDLEY XACUS V-NECK JOHN WHITE MAC TRETORN Many more...

16a Stafford Street, Edinburgh, EH3 7AU, 0131 225 8119

i-on Homes INTERIOR DESIGNER AND PHOTOGRAPHER CARLEY KYLE ON BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO A DATED EDWARDIAN PROPERTY IN CORSTORPHINE

Photography Cat Thomson

INTERIORS

hen I first spotted this house on the ESPC website, I knew straight away it could be something special. It was extremely dated and rather neglected but the room sizes were great, it had beautiful intricate cornicing and an amazing roof light at the top of the stairs. I can’t help but see the potential in older buildings. I’m an interior designer with Jeffreys Interiors, my dad’s a building contractor and Mum makes soft furnishings for a living so I guess it’s in my blood. The first home I owned with my husband, Fraser, was a new build and we loved it but we always wanted an older property to renovate and make our own. The biggest change we made was to the ground floor which originally had a long narrow bathroom, small kitchen and a separate dining room. We removed the bathroom completely and knocked down the wall between there and the dining room to create a larger kitchen/dining area with doors to the garden. My dad and I came up with the concept for the new configuration and luckily an architect friend drew it up

INTERIORS

for us. It made a huge difference and maximised space in each room. We now have a great sized bathroom, open kitchen dining and a small utility room in what was the old kitchen extension – it’s decorated with a leafy Osborne & Little wallpaper which makes it feels like part of the garden. THE FIRST FLOOR Upstairs, the work was mainly cosmetic. We stole a bit of space from the second bedroom to create an en-suite in our bedroom, but other than that, the space upstairs worked well for us. We’ve just put our stamp on things. I particularly love the gorgeous Tropical Leopard fabric from Timorous Beasties we used for the blind in our bedroom. The renovation took longer than anticipated. We moved in at four months when it was nowhere near complete. Fraser and I lived on the first floor with our baby, Sienna, our dog, Red, a fridge, a microwave and an en-suite shower room while the ground floor remained a building site.

It was another four months until the big works were complete and it’s still a work in progress but there have been bigger fish to fry so we’ve learnt to prioritise. GOING OVER BUDGET It’s the nature of building work that unexpected things crop up. It can’t be helped no matter how prepared you are. An open mind and remaining positive is key as there will be times that test the patience and the budget. We didn’t find out that the roof was in serious need of repair until the work started and it pushed us over budget. This meant we had to get creative in other areas. In our kitchen we planned to have beautiful Dekton worktops but as the budget dwindled, we had to look at other options. THE KITCHEN This room was single-handedly built by my dad (Buick Building & Joinery) so it’s got huge sentimental value as well as being a great space to enjoy. It’s mostly contemporary in style with flat doors and a concrete worktop.

FROM DENMARK. TO THE WORLD.

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INTERIORS

THE UTILITY ROOM IS DECORATED WITH A LEAFY OSBORNE & LITTLE WALLPAPER WHICH MAKES IT FEEL LIKE PART OF THE GARDEN”

When we were making cutbacks, we took a leap of faith with poured white concrete surfaces which my dad had never done before and they turned out amazing. Now we have something completely unique, we even have our handprints on the underside. BEST INVESTMENT I found the WC and sink for our ensuite online second-hand for £50. They are original pieces by Sanitan with hand painted flowers all over them and I just loved them straight away. My husband thought I was crazy but he came around quickly when I paired them with black and white geometric floor tiles and he saw how great it was going to look. COLOUR PALETTE The prominent colour throughout the property is Farrow & Ball Railings which is on almost all of the woodwork and on the walls in the living room too. The kitchen walls are F&B Purbeck Stone with the hall and stair in Dulux Just Walnut. Our bedroom and bathroom walls are F&B Setting Plaster and love its pinky peach hue. The only room with different woodwork is our daughters room in F&B Calamine and walls in Strong White and the main bathroom panelling which is Downpipe as I wanted something slightly softer than railings. LOCAL FINDS Working at Jeffreys Interiors means I see a parade of beautiful things come through both our design studio and showroom daily. Inevitably the odd bits and bobs make their way into our house. Most recently, we’ve brought some of the new nursery items into Sienna’s bedroom. Being just down the road from the zoo, we had to have the panda stool. I’m also a big lover of TK Maxx for accessories and odd furniture bits. For inspiration on your own renovation, visit jeffreys-interiors.co.uk.

INTERIORS

HOM E

REPORT INTERIORS NEWS AND WHAT TO BUY NOW

MINI MAISON

For stylish inspiration in your little one’s room, check out the new nursery section at Jeffreys Interiors awardwinning showroom in Stockbridge. It has everything from House of Hackney wallpaper to Villa Nova fabrics, Zoffany paint and giftware - think little booties, cushions, blankets and money boxes. Prices from £9. jeffreys-interiors.co.uk

SPOTLIGHT ON…

Living with Coco Chanel by Edinburgh based writer Caroline Young. Featuring designs, drawings, archive imagery and contemporary photography, this beautifully illustrated biography tells the story of Gabrielle Coco Chanel and how her homes and landscapes influenced her work. £22 at amazon. co.uk

I-ON LOVES…

Renowned for its distinctive grain and warm tone, American red oak is one of the world’s most sustainable woods. It also looks incredibly stylish. Case in point, this Dovetail sideboard, £799 part of a new limited edition collection by Ben Fowler of Marque Furniture, now available at John Lewis & Partners. johnlewis.com

FIVE MINUTES WITH…

STEVEN COX THE EDINBURGH BASED ARTIST ON HIS PASSION FOR PAINTING AND LOVE FOR THE CITY MY INSPIRATION Alongside the inherent beauty of the city I am also attracted to the less celebrated gritty side of Edinburgh. There is a lot to be seen and discovered, even after 10 years of living here. STARTING OUT I completed my Bachelors in Painting at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art in Dundee, and a Masters in Contemporary Art Theory and Curating at Edinburgh College of Art. The course was fantastic and culminated in curating an exhibition at Talbot Rice Gallery. I now regularly curate exhibitions by local artists under the moniker of Hunted Projects (@huntedprojects). FAVOURITE CITY HANGOUT Borough Restaurant in Leith. It is a family owned restaurant that offers a fantastic set menu serving locally sourced produce. I also have a large painting on permanent display there. Go see! BEST DESIGN IN THE CITY The new Edinburgh Printmakers in Fountainbridge is impressive. The space, light and facilities unite perfectly. Follow on Instagram @studiostevencox or visit stevencox.co.uk

TRAVEL

SOMETHING OLD SOMETHING NEW

THE WITCHERY

Carrie Mitchell experiences an icon of Edinburgh hospitality which more than lives up to its reputation

FROM AN EDINBURGH INSTITUTION TO A HOT HIGHLAND OPENING, I-ON DISCOVERS TWO ICONIC HOTELS TO ADD TO YOUR BUCKET LIST...

night in The Witchery is hands down one of the most memorable, indulgent experiences of my life. Opening the door to my lavish suite is like stepping back in time – everything is decked out in the richest shades of red and green, there’s a romantic four-poster bed, roll top bath, heavy velvet drapes, hanging tapestries, antiques on every surface and a separate sitting room where a fat guestbook lies open by the fireplace, filled with praise from former guests (including one Ms Minogue who described the place as ‘the perfect lust den’).

FEATURES

ICONIC EDINBURGH Louise Dickins goes behind the doors of the city’s hidden gems

“E Beloved by celebrities and critics alike, the gothic hotel by the castle has become famous for being the capital’s most romantic destination. Not only an Edinburgh institution, but an institution across the hospitality world once described as ‘one of the seven wonders of the hotel world’. However, if we’re being technical, it’s not actually a hotel at all. Owned by James Thomson OBE, the official classification is a restaurant-with-rooms and when The Witchery by the Castle first opened its doors on Halloween 1979, it was to diners only. Such is the astounding success of the restaurant, Thomson has gone from a team of three to a team of almost 90, working across the original restaurant, an adjacent second dining room called The Secret Garden which opened in 1990, and nine sumptuous suites created for visitors who simply didn’t want their Witchery experience to end when their meal did. I can understand their distress. After I’ve enjoyed a candlelit meal in the original restaurant – Oban oysters, Côte de boeuf of Ballindalloch beef and a bottle of punchy Malbec from the award-winning wine list (voted best in the country by AA in 2014, no less), you’d be hard pushed to get me to leave. The luxury is all too easy to get used to. Opulent interiors, first class service, the finest food and wine and an intimate atmosphere ensure guests feel like they’ve been admitted into a secret club allowing exclusive access to the dramatic den. But the best news is this club is actually open to everybody and it’s only getting bigger and better. This year, construction will begin on a 10th suite which is set to be Edinburgh’s largest and highest hotel room – twice the size of a standard suite and four storeys up. Formerly the private rooms of James Thomson, the palatial suite will offer an unbeatable 360-degree panorama of the city. Looking across the dramatic cityscape, you can certainly see where Thomson found his inspiration. Room rates from £365 at The Witchery by the Castle, Castlehill. To find out more call 0131 225 5613 or visit thewitchery.com

dinburgh’s skyline is one of the most impressive and memorable things about the city. That skyline is made all the more fabulous by the iconic buildings that punctuate it. Whilst we love looking at these structures from the outside, there are many that you can get inside too and when you do, you’re able to see the city from a new and spectacular perspective. “For views, The Scott Monument on Princes Street and Nelson Monument on Calton Hill are open every day and exceptional. On Saturdays and Sundays you can take a rooftop tour of St Giles Cathedral. Limited to just 4 people per tour, this is a very special thing to do and few people realise you can. Bookings are taken on the day. And the Cockburn Association’s Doors Open Weekend (28 and 29 September) is often the only time you can get to see inside fascinating iconic buildings across the city and it’s free. “There are two special gardens off the Royal Mile. Dunbar’s Close, at 137 Canongate, is a very elegant 17th century garden and a joyful surprise. Explore Trunk’s Close at 55 High Street and you’ll find a hidden garden at the end with a wonderful memorial to Patrick Geddes, the father of town planning.”

Louise is the owner of Dickins, Edinburgh’s premium letting agent for short term and holiday letting. Her wealth of local knowledge and understanding of the quality end of the market ensures high satisfaction ratings with both guests and landlords. dickins.co.uk

TRAVEL

THE FIFE ARMS

Carine Seitz discovers what happens when the art world’s hottest couple get their hands on a Highland Victorian coaching inn

he notion of an excellent hotel needing to have an air of ‘home-from-home’ has never struck a chord with me. Where my own bricks and mortar err on Scandi/mid-century, I want a hotel to deliver the very opposite; the more ridiculously sublime the better. Enter: The Fife Arms. Eclectic and extraordinary, this art and taxidermy-filled hotel, is the perfect tonic to real life. The hotel in Braemar – near Balmoral Castle, the Royal family’s Scottish holiday home – was bought five years ago by doyens of the art world Iwan and Manuela Wirth (Hauser & Wirth galleries can be found worldwide), and lovingly refurbished to create what has been lauded as Scotland’s ‘hottest hotel’ since it’s reopening in January. Given its ownership, it follows that the hotel acts as a showpiece for art: a few steps over the threshold bring you face-to-face with a Freud, a Picasso, and a sketch by none other than Queen Victoria herself. The interiors, by designer Russell Sage, draw on the building’s history and are traditional in style, but with a twist. From the bleachtreated Steinway piano, to the waxwork Queen Victoria, and the flying stag suspended above the bar, touches of the absurd fit in as comfortably as the tweed, fireplaces, and bespoke tartan walls. Our room, a Victoriana Suite, is richly furnished in greens and reds. No less than 30 framed coats of arms adorn the walls, and the corner bay window looks out to a stunning view over the hills. The food and drink is also a cut above. Lunch in The Flying Stag, the hotel’s public bar, comes in the way of classic Scottish dishes, real

ales and whiskies while dinner in The Clunie Dining Room comes from a menu rich in local produce: Orkney scallops, Arisaig Lobster, Scottish girolles and Inverurie pork to name but a few. Bespoke cocktails in the charming Art Deco bar, honouring fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, is the perfect end to our evening. The Fife Arms is quite unlike anywhere else, difficult to define and impossible to do justice to with a word count and consequent limit on superlatives. If I had to try with just one word, it would be this: go. Bed and breakfast from £250 at The Fife Arms, Braemar. To find out more call 01339 720 200 or visit thefifearms.com

Be Happy

For all your gluten-free, wheat-free, dairy-free, soy, salt and sugar-free needs

www.realfoods.co.uk 37 Broughton Street & 8 Brougham Street organic

•

plant based

•

vegan

•

vegetarian

INDULGE THE SENSES IN EPICUREAN BAR & KITCHEN Stylish cocktail lounge on George IV Bridge serving acclaimed seasonal cocktail menu inspired by Scotland and Edinburgh’s history and culture, as well as a range of fine wines, champagnes and craft beers. All day dining menu from award-winning team featuring brunches, relaxed brasserie lunches and dinners as well as gourmet afternoon teas.

Bookings can be made on 0131 220 6666 1 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1AD

FEATURES

SILVER SCREEN BEAUTY

For sparkling, shimmering textures; subtle sepia and grey tones; and irresistible new Rouge Noirs, check out the new Noir et Blanc de CHANEL collection. We’re lusting after Les 4 Ombres eye shadow palette in Modern Glamour, £44. Just the thing for creating that perfect smoky eye. Chanel.com

BEAUTYNOTES Must try products and treatments

Three launches we’re excited about… 1. You’ll now find eco-friendly Irish haircare brand We Are Paradoxx at Harvey Nichols, Edinburgh. Try Secret Weapon, £20, for a tripleaction multi-tasker that works as a conditioner, leave-in treatment and finishing balm. 2. Sisley Phyto Teint Ultra Eclat, £66, is the new radiance-activating foundation range from the skincare experts. It’s available in 14 shades and promises luminous, flawless skin. 3. Discover gravity-defying volume with BADgal BANG! 36-Hour Full-Blast, £22, in brightening blue. The custom brush reaches root-to-tip without weighing down your lashes. At Benefit counters citywide.

I-ON LOVES…

Jo Malone London Poppy & Barley Cologne; a deliciously floral scent enhanced by rose and violet and topped with juicy blackcurrants. Wear it solo or combine it with Myrrh & Tonka Cologne Intense for a heavier, sensual scent. 30ml cologne, £48, at boutiques and jomalone.co.uk

BEAUTY EXPERT FEATURING VICKY LYONS, FOUNDER OF LYONSLEAF SKINCARE We launched the business because… my husband and I were dismayed by the poor range of natural products on the high street. Lyonsleaf is 100 per cent natural skincare made from organic, cold pressed and essential oils. Our bestseller is… the Beauty Balm. It drastically improves dryness, reduces shine and rebalances oily skin. The hot ingredient in skincare is… marshmallow. It’s the herb that softens and repairs skin. My top beauty tip is… a healthy diet. Eating less sugar, refined grains and a good probiotic profile is the best thing for your skin. My three beauty essentials are…. Green People tinted moisturiser, bareMinerals mascara and our Calendula and Marshmallow Balm for hands, lips and even insect bites. Lyonsleaf skincare is available at lovelula.com

BEAUTY

our y d in f o t e r e Wh ry inner Sanctua

ONE SPA

LUSH SPA

JO MORRIS TRIES THE ICONIC SPA’S SIGNATURE TREATMENT

AMANDA SOUTHEY DISCOVERS A SECRET CITY ESCAPE

There are quite a lot of things I love about a treatment at One Spa (soaking in the rooftop pool and exploring the thermal suite, for example) but the one thing that triggers immediate relaxation is the point when the therapist walks out of the room to let you get ready and dims the lights, leaving just the star-shaped pattern of tiny lights in the ceiling. Time for one hour and 20 minutes’ worth of bliss that is the spa’s signature One Moment for You treatment, £121. Comprising a back exfoliation and massage, foot exfoliation, express facial, head, neck and shoulder relaxation and a foot massage, this treatment, exclusive to One Spa, uses a selection of Made for Life Organics treatments with its 100% organic ingredients and specialised massage techniques to de-stress, unwind and ensure maximum relaxation. It’s the sort of treatment that you don’t want to end and has you reaching for the diary to book your next one.

Hidden in the basement of Lush on Princes Street, you’ll find a relaxing, rustic spa inspired by a cosy farmhouse kitchen. I tried the signature spa treatment, a multi-sensory full body massage called Synaesthesia, £140, developed in collaboration with a behavioural therapist. It all starts with choosing one of 11 words from a chalkboard (words like ‘humour’, ‘confidence’ and ‘esteem’) to determine which of Lush’s famous solid massage bars will be used during the treatment. Then you are invited to choose from 20 fragrance bottles, not by actually sniffing them but by reading the labels (which say things like ‘determination’, ‘laugh’ and ‘content’) – the fragrance chosen is then used to scent your treatment room. I’m not sure exactly what my choices of Enlightened and Hug say about me but 80 minutes of pure bliss later, I emerged feeling more relaxed than I have in years.

One Spa, 8 Conference Square, EH3 8AN 0131 221 7777, onespa.com

Lush Spa, 115 Princes Street, EH2 3AA 0131 225 4688, uk.lush.com

Nurturing skin confidence, everyday. Call us today to begin your journey. info@thesourceclinic.com | 01314474369 | Open late nights & Saturdays The Source Clinic 20 Morningside Road, EH10 4DA

ON THE FOOD

RADAR NEW OPENINGS, MUST-TRY MENUS AND FOODIE FINDS

TAKE THREE…

NEW DINING EXPERIENCES

IF GIN IS YOUR THING…

Harvey Nichols Edinburgh has partnered with Daffy’s Gin for their next supper club on Friday 27 September. The evening kicks off with a G&T on arrival followed by four bespoke courses each expertly paired with a Daffy’s gin cocktail. Tickets cost £60 per person and can be purchased via Eventbrite.

FOR THE BRUNCH CROWD…

The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen has a new weekend brunch costing £28 per person for three courses plus a glass of Prosecco. Highlights include waffles with berry compote and hot smoked salmon on sourdough. Available Saturday and Sunday from noon to 3.30pm. To book, call 0131 466 1539.

TFI FRIDAY

Need an excuse for a Friday night out? Pickering’s Gin is taking over Edinburgh’s Vesta Bar and Kitchen on Friday 13 and Friday 20 September offering the opportunity to sample special drinks based on the warming spices in their gin, made just up the road at Summerhall distillery. Choose from the Pickering’s Gin Perfect Serve (classic Pickering’s Gin with tonic and a slice of pink grapefruit), the Pickering’s Pink Grapefruit and Lemongrass Liqueur Spritz or a Pickering’s Gin Negroni. You had us at gin.

FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET TOOTH… Patisserie Valerie has redesigned its range of classic patisserie and gateaux to produce even better flavours. We didn’t think that was possible but we’ll happily carry out the research. patisserie-valerie.co.uk

ROAST WITH THE MOST

For the most indulgent Sunday spread you’ve ever seen, the newly-renovated Strathearn restaurant at Gleneagles is offering a sumptuous three-course lunch for £55. From smoked salmon carved with theatrical flair at the table and roasted sirloin of Tweed Valley Beef served straight from the trolley, to fresh Scottish berries and Valrhona chocolate tart, the menu showcases the finest seasonal and Scottish ingredients. With its buzzy atmosphere, live music and warm and attentive table service, The Strathearn has put golden age glamour back on the menu. To reserve a table, call 01764 694270 or book online at gleneagles.com

FOOD AND DRINK

OKTOBERFEST IN THE CAPITAL

Brewhemia on Market Street is throwing its very own Oktoberfest celebrations from 21 Sept – 13 Oct, and if you’re a fan of Escape Rooms then you’ll want to take part in its Oktoberfest themed Escape Dinner. For just £35, you’ll receive a stein on arrival, Schnitzel main course and German themed entertainment as you compete with other teams to solve the puzzle and win The Last Home Brew. For tickets, email events@clg.co.uk

FIVE ICONIC BARS

THAT HAVE STOOD THE TEST OF TIME 1. THE CANNY MANS Family run since 1871, this Morningside pub has achieved legendary status thanks to the late Watson Kerr’s unique approach to hospitality. It’s decorated with antiques and eclectic collections of several Kerr generations and its whisky offering is second to none.

POST-FESTIVAL PARTY

Survived festival madness at work? Celebrate with your team at Civerinos Hunter Square or The High Dive with pizza, a can of beer and shot of Jameson whiskey for £10pp, from 01 – 30 September. Big tables even get a free bottle of Jameson. To book the post-festival industry party offer, email info@civerinos.com or call 0131 667 4867. civerinos.com

WHERE TO GO FOR HAPPY HOUR

Forget epic cocktail hangovers, Voyage of Buck on William Street has launched a range of low alcohol and ‘soft cocktails’ where liqueurs, vermouths and sherries are paired with fruity bitters and fragrant infusions. Try them for just £5 between 3-7pm, Sunday – Tuesday. thevoyageofbuckedinburgh.co.uk

2. THE OXFORD BAR Immortalised by Ian Rankin, ‘The Ox’ remains remarkably unaltered by its fame and hasn’t changed much in 100 years, despite the constant influx of Rebus fans who make the pilgrimage to the New Town boozer. 3. CAFÉ ROYAL With a white marble floor, gleaming brass rails and wooden circular bar, this impressive and much-loved pub tucked behind Princes Street is also Scotland’s oldest oyster bar, originally opening in 1826. 4. KELVINGROVE CAFÉ Taking inspiration from the grand cafes of 19th century Europe, this stylish spot opened its doors for the first time in 1896 and is renowned today for its outstanding cocktails and seasonal plates. 5. THE HORSESHOE BAR Dating back to 1846, this famous pub on Glasgow’s Drury Street features a grand Victorian bar stretching over 104 feet, apparently the longest in Europe and with an architectural listing all of its own.

FOOD AND DRINK

WHERE I-ON’S BEEN EATING THIS MONTH

THE TOWER

Laura Wood enjoys the fireworks in style at Scotland’s first rooftop restaurant

ew things symbolise iconic Edinburgh more than the epic annual firework display from Castle Rock marking the end of the Festival. How lucky am I then to find myself out for a friend’s birthday dinner on that very night and at one of the hottest tables in town. Already in its 20s, James Thomson’s Tower Restaurant is an Edinburgh institution located within the turret of the award-winning National Museum of Scotland building. It was the city’s first rooftop restaurant and, to this day, there are few dining rooms offering a more commanding view of the city, which is looking particularly stunning this evening as hundreds of dazzling fireworks light up the night sky. Celebrating our successful restaurant choice (and Jenny’s birthday), we start with a glass of Billecart-Salmon brut reserve Champagne, £12, before tucking in to our substantial starters - three large hand-dived scallops by The Ethical Shellfish Co in a silky shellfish velouté, £21, for Jenny and, for me, a rich, creamy shellfish risotto with a zesty lemon finish, £11.50. For the main event, I enjoy a delicious fillet of blackened North Sea cod, £25.50, served with heritage potatoes, chorizo and red pepper chutney

and washed down with a stunning glass of Marlborough Sauvignon, £9.25. Jenny’s soy marinated yellowfin tuna steaks with Asian salad, £27.50, are butter-soft, served with a balanced sesame and honey dressing. She has no qualms about finishing it but despite our joint love of food and a dessert list full of tempting puds from a classic Eton Mess, £8.50, to a fabulous-sounding Fennel crème brulee, £8.75, we both admit defeat and decide against a third course. While we practice rare restraint on this occasion, the Tower dining experience can be as extravagant as you want it to be, but it’s also surprisingly affordable. From noon until 6.30pm, two courses from the light menu are yours for a very reasonable £19.95 and the table d’hôte menu, costing £38 for three courses, runs daily. You can go for breakfast, afternoon tea, a Sunday roast or just drinks on the terrace, where you’re guaranteed an even better view of the capital’s stunning skyline. Whenever or whatever the occasion, there’s just something about Tower. The ‘secret’ entrance and rooftop views, flavoursome food made with sustainable ingredients and amazing wines all add to the VIP experience. And, of course, it helps if the city happens to lay on a fireworks display for you. Chambers St, EH1 1JF, 0131 225 3003, tower-restaurant.com

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FOOD AND DRINK

WHERE I-ON’S BEEN EATING THIS MONTH

NOTO

CARRIE MITCHELL GOES ON A CULINARY JOURNEY AT THE HOTTEST NEW RESTAURANT IN TOWN

have just discovered my favourite new ingredient - chicken skin. Deliciously crispy yet also chewy, salty yet smooth, full of flavour…and fat, yes, but aren’t all the best things? Besides, here at Noto, it’s not attached to a chicken and covered in gravy, it’s pepping up my saintly salad of gem lettuce, parmesan and herbs, £8.50 - like the more sophisticated cousin of every American’s favourite salad garnish, the bacon bit. It’s no surprise that the dish has an American influence, Noto proudly proclaims itself as a New-York inspired restaurant with a love for Asian cuisine. A Japanese influence is certainly notable in the décor which I’d describe as sparse but stylish: plain walls, a few artfully arranged twigs, the odd plant. And the menu ascribes to the latest trend for small sharing plates. We choose eight of these, each of which is impeccably presented and surprising in its own way. Notable mentions go to the oysters, £2 each, zingy mouthfuls topped with cucumber mignotte and dill; the whole boule of buratta, £12, with fresh peas and green chilli adding a clean edge to the

unctuous cheese; and the North sea crab, £8, which comes in its shell already mixed with warm butter, alongside incredibly moreish sourdough. If the meal ended here, my tastebuds would be satisfied but my appetite demands more and I’m glad we don’t bypass the Lobster, XO, koshihikari, £16. The silky, spicy seafood risotto is topped with chewy, fishy-flavoured petals, which taste phenomenal. We’re both stunned to discover that they’re tuna flakes which you can buy for next to nothing in the Japanese supermarket on Leith Walk. Sticking to the sharing ethos, we choose just one dessert: The Michel Cluizel chocolate, miso, hazelnut, £8. The combination of rich chocolate mousse with salty, syrupy miso is another stroke of genius from chef/ owner Stuart Ralston and a surefire sign that this, his second restaurant, will be just as much of a success as his first – the much-loved Aizle. I feel like my tastebuds have been on an educational journey, taking in all the best, most interesting bits of New York and Asia – perhaps not surprisingly, such a trip doesn’t come cheap and our bill, for two (including wine) comes in at an eye-watering £140. On the bright side, my shopping list for miso, tuna flakes and chicken skin will hardly cost a penny. Noto, 47a Thistle Street, EH2 1DY 0131 241 8518, notoedinburgh.co.uk

14 –20 OCTOBER

Join us for our biggest and most exciting festival yet featuring a new Cocktail Forest, Rooftop Cocktail Domes, an expanded Cocktail Village and 70 of Edinburgh’s finest bars – all serving £4 cocktails!

WRISTBANDS ON SALE NOW EDINBURGHCOCKTAILWEEK.CO.UK

FEATURES

Cocktails: Panda & Sons is my favourite speakeasystyle bar in Edinburgh with a sensational gin selection. Coffee: I love an oat milk flat white from Williams & Johnston in Leith, paired with one of their vegan slices.

Interiors shopping: PAD Lifestyle is my favourite spot for finding unusual pieces, candles, coffee table books and Scandiinspired decor. PAD Lifestyle

Amanda Thomas Williams & Johnston

THEBESTOFEDINBURGH

Amanda Thomas Paradise Palms

EDINBURGH-BASED INFLUENCER SHARES HER FAVOURITE HAUNTS

Burger: Paradise Palms’ menu is all plant-based American-style diner food, so it’s my go-to spot for burgers, dirty fries and dairy-free cheese that actually melts. Pizza: Soderberg in Lister Square is a great tucked-away spot for huge, indulgent pizzas. Brunch: Hands down, Loudons has the best brunch in Edinburgh. The vegan benedict is what dreams are made of!

Aurora

Fine dining: Aurora in Leith does low-key fine dining using locallysourced and seasonal produce in a Nordicinspired setting. Fish & chips: Tofish n chips at Harmonium can’t be beaten for a plant-based spin on this British classic

Fashion shopping: I love the vintage shops in Newington if I’m looking for denim, corduroy or vintage tees, and lately I’m also excited about the Shop Treen ethical fashion pop up at SpaceAtSeventeen in Stockbridge.

Live music: Every time I’m at Brewhemia, there’s something different and wonderful going on whether it’s a choir, live band or a drag queen dancing across the top of the banquet tables. Art: The Fruitmarket Gallery is a contemporary art space in the city showcasing Scottish and international artists, and the coffee from their onsite café Milk is fantastic. Beauty: SpaceNK is a great stop for cruelty-free makeup and skincare. Walk: My favourite weekend walk starts at Bross Bagels in the West End and then heads into the Dean Village and along the water of Leith, finishing with a celebratory glass of champagne at wine bar Toast on the Shore. For more cool places and pics, follow @amandaellenthomas on Instagram

E BR

WHEMIA’

21ST SEP - 13TH OCT O meine gosh! Oktoberfest is here and we have a fantastich lineup of events for you and your group! Plus we have teamed up with Eeek Escape Rooms for a unique dinner game - ‘The Last Home Brew’ Packages include beer steins, prosecco, schnitzels, smorgasbords and schnapps! And of course our Beer Palace will be getting its annual Munich makeover with live entertainment from our creative clique and our favourite brassy boys. Sounds gut ja?

For full details and package options visit our website: brewhemia.co.uk/oktoberfest-2019

brewhemia.co.uk | 0131 226 9560 | 1A Market St, Edinburgh

INSTA-INSIDER Edinburgh has so many pretty and inventive doorstep gardens, I love the idea that you can make a garden out of the tiniest space #creativespaces

The Shore is my favourite place to spend a sunny afternoon. I love the pop-ups at Custom Lane, Teuchters and East Pizza

I lead an outdoor photography class at The Water of Leith and here you can see yours truly in my favourite spot #selfie

Every time I climb the stairs of the Vennel and turn around to see the view of Edinburgh Castle it amazes me Mr Eion’s coffee in Stockbridge. No other coffee will #thisisedinburgh be the same once you’ve tried it

You can’t beat a run or cycle round Arthur’s Seat

INSTA-INSIDER

TRAVEL AND FOOD PHOTOGRAPHER RACHEL COHEN CHOOSES HER #TOP9 Follow on Instagram @travelswithmyphone

Century General Store is a hidden gem with excellent coffee and beautiful utilitarian homewares #mustvisit

The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is free to visit and perfect for a rainy day

Forget Circus Lane, Ann Street has gardens overflowing with colour and it’s the prettiest street in Edinburgh #pictureperfect

TALL GLASSES & TALLER VIEWS Champagne · Small Plates · Afternoon Tea OPEN NOW 6 M a r ke t S t re e t Ed i n b u r g h E H 1 1 D E seeyou@norlof t.co.uk 0131 322 9229 norloft.co.uk @norloft