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• SAJN’s first-ever Women’s Edition • Alice Weil (1919-2020): A loving tribute to a remarkable woman and industry gem • The darker side of gemstones
W h e n w e ’r e o n t o p o f t h e w o r l d o r l i f e t u r n s u p s i d e d o w n
I t ake you, until forever Forevermark Engagement & Commitment Collection Beautiful, Rare, Responsibly sourced
SAJN |CONTENTS
contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Editorial Doyenne: Alice Weil Brand Strategy Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isihkova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Sales Director: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lamees Mahomed Cell: 084-590-5123 E-mail: lamees@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Lori Zavattoni Cell: 083-229-7873 E-mail: lori@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Gail Keogh Cell: 082-929-4935 E-mail: gail@isikhova.co.za Media Specialist: Ruwayda Mahomed Cell: 072-383-3203 E-mail: ruwayda@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 E-mail: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
10. ALICE WEIL: A LOVING TRIBUTE TO A REMARKABLE WOMAN AND INDUSTRY GEM 19 NEWS • More than 300 companies to exhibit at VOICE in Vicenza in September • SA’s first and only dedicated con sumer jewellery magazine launched • 12ct blue diamond smashes estimate at Christie’s • WFDB Acting President calls on Governments to step up • Digital International Bank to offer services to diamond and jewellery sectors internationally • September Hong Kong show now in November
40. ZEROUKI WILL BE THE FIRST WOMAN TO HEAD THE WDC Feriel Zerouki, De Beers’ Senior VicePresident of International Relations & Ethical Initiatives, will become the first woman to head the World Diamond Council, which aims to keep conflict diamonds out of the supply chain.
Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za
4
26. 13 WOMEN WHO INSPIRE 9 August is National Women’s Day in SA and the month of August is National Women’s Month, when we celebrate women’s strength, resilience and contributions to society and the country. SAJN pays tribute to some of the remarkable women in our local diamond and jewellery industry whose hard work and dedication continue to inspire us.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
CONTENTS|SAJN
Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za
AUGUST 2020
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Bennett is no stranger to the industry, having been at the Diamond Council for 22 years. She tells us what she loves most about the industry, her personal philosophy and her journey to recovery after being diagnosed with COVID-19.
R36,00 (incl VAT)
rs
53. GETTING TO KNOW… THE DIAMOND COUNCIL’S JOYCE BENNETT
www.ddcsa.co.za
diamo d and je n
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54. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
42
Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead.
Local actress and TV presenter Roxy Burger tells us about Linear, her 18ct solid gold and diamond piercing collection.
• Alice Weil (1919-2020): A loving tribute to a remarkable woman and industry gem • The darker side of gemstones
56. A LITTLE PIECE OF MAGIC Astrologer and empowerment coach Natalia Benson joins forces with Krystle Knight Jewellery for their first mystical collaboration of meaningful adornments, She Is Cosmic.
LITTLE GEMS 42. ROXY BURGER’S LINEAR LUXE COLLECTION
• SAJN’s first-ever Women’s Edition
58
Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches.
On the cover Metal Concentrators SA (Pty) Ltd has a trustworthy reputation in the field of refining and supplying precious metals in South Africa and is committed to shifting its focus towards integrated, sustainable development. Its world-class investment products have been marketed locally and in many global markets. Contact Metal Concentrators on CPT: 021 510 0770 / PTA: 012 000 4440 / DUR: 083 600 2210 / info@MetCon.co.za or visit: www.MetCon.co.za
Banking Details: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 3319 867 44
The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
5
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ED'S NOTE|SAJN
Editor's AUGUST IS NATIONAL WOMEN’S Month and this issue celebrates some of the remarkable women in the diamond and jewellery industry who have broken barriers, stepped into commendable leadership roles or are working away quietly and dynamically in the background. Every day I am surrounded by truly extraordinary women in my family, my workplace and the industry
women working full-time, but still
watches, jewellery or the industry
who, despite also facing challenges,
finding extra hours every day to at-
in general. I called her “Ms Weil”.
continue to be a constant source of
tend to their children and household
But from the very first moment I
inspiration. I am truly awed by how
duties. In these past few months of
met her, I knew there was nothing
much they do to shine their light
uncertainty, I have seen women sup-
to be nervous about. As respected,
while supporting others. For me,
porting and encouraging their hus-
admired and knowledgeable as she
they are all powerful examples of the
bands and being a beacon of positiv-
was, she exuded incredible warmth
courageous and compassionate fem-
ity and hope for their families when
and kindness. She took me under
inine spirit we all need to embrace.
financial strain became a reality.
her wing and became a wonder-
There is an old Mexican proverb:
Strong women are the glue that
ful mentor and friend. Our regular
“A house does not rest upon the
holds a family together and brings
tea dates in her garden, which I will
ground, but upon a woman.” A
strength to their workplaces and
always cherish as special memo-
strong woman is the foundation of a
communities. Every day I am privi-
ries, were where I learnt about not
solid family and community.
leged to see them. May they inspire
only the industry, but much more.
Women have the ability to take a
us to unlock our own strengths and
Alice was admired and respected
little bit of help and weave it into the
motivate us to make a difference in
beyond anyone I know. Whenever I
survival of their loved ones. They can
our own circles.
attended an international jewellery
apply everything they have learnt to
It is with great sadness that we bid
making the lives of their families and
farewell to just such a woman in this
friends better. I see women picking
issue. I had the wonderful pleasure
What I will always remember, in
up the pieces of their hearts after
of working closely with Alice Weil
particular, was her inexhaustible
the death of a beloved child or family
for 15 years. I still remember the
love for the industry, her garden
member, and caring for the remain-
day I met her during my first week
and her family.
ing ones with humour and dedica-
writing for SA Jewellery News. I was
Our hearts at SA Jewellery News
tion. I see women learn from their
a 22-year-old, Afrikaans-speaking
are shattered. Rest in peace, our
mistakes and counsel their friends
girl from Limpopo and extremely
beloved Alice: we will miss you so
and colleagues to avoid them. Dur-
nervous, having heard about all her
very much.
ing lockdown and the closure of
remarkable accomplishments, es-
schools and childcare centres, I saw
pecially as I knew very little about
Adri Viviers
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
or watch fair, everyone always enquired after her.
7
SAJN |IN LOVING MEMORY
10
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
IN LOVING MEMORY|SAJN
Alice Weil (1919-2020)
A loving tribute to a remarkable woman and an industry gem OUR HEARTS AT SA JEWELLERY NEWS
a young man called Aubrey Levy.
were broken when we heard the
They soon began courting in a
news of our beloved Alice Weil’s
different way and six months later,
passing on Friday, 17 July. Alice was
they were married at the Gardens
101 years old and still writing for
Synagogue in Cape Town. Their
SA Jewellery News (SAJN). She was
oldest child, Andrew, was born
an icon in the watch and jewellery
on Alice’s birthday in 1947. After
industry and was loved, admired
Aubrey passed away in 1959, Alice
and respected both locally and
met Alan Weil, whom she married
internationally. Through her research,
in 1963. Together with Andrew,
global travels, life experience and
their daughter Patricia and son
deeply enquiring mind, her verbal
David, they became a family of five.
choreography
entertained
and
Alice had always been a very
informed SAJN readers for 41 years.
competent writer and in the 1970s,
“Alice’s soft nature, wicked sense
she authored numerous radio scripts.
of humour and curious, encyclopae-
At the same time, she worked as a
dic mind made her a magnificent
Personal Assistant to David Gevisser
example of her profession. When
of the wholesaler Moshal Gevisser
she entered a room, she brought
and in Engelhard Industries, when
with her charm, poise, grace and el-
Gevisser became its CEO.
egance. You knew instantly she was
At 60 years of age, Alice re-
a woman of great substance,” says
tired. However, this was short-lived:
Jason Aarons from the SAJN team.
through a chance conversation at a
Born on 14 March 1919 in Cape
hairdresser, she was offered a job
Town, Alice was the oldest child of
on the then Diamond News and
Elias and Ella Stern. She matriculated
SA Jeweller (which later became SA
at the age of 16 and attended the
Jewellery News).
University of Cape Town, graduating from the Michaelis School of Fine Art with a degree in fine art. In 1942, while visiting a friend in Johannesburg, she was invited to a tennis party, where she met
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
(Left): Alice’s grandson Daniel Levy took this photograph of her at her 100th birthday party. “She was thoughtfully sitting and editing her speech. After a few minutes she looked at me, said: ‘I speak better off the cuff anyway’ and then put away the pen and paper. Quite remarkable!” Levy fondly remembers.
11
SAJN |IN LOVING MEMORY During her time at SAJN, Alice was highly regarded in the international luxury watch and jewellery industries. In 1979, Alice and 11 other journalists were given VIP tours of the Basel show in order to learn about the Swiss watchmaking industry and its products. This opened up a new world of learning and appreciation for her. She was mesmerised by the precision and beauty of these delicate timepieces and developed an immediate passion for them. For the next 35 years, Alice attended Baselworld, which is still regarded as one of the most important gatherings of the global watchmaking and jewellery industries. One year, Omega took Alice and two other senior journalists on a journey of Switzerland on the Orient Express. On another two occasions, Cartier invited Alice to exhibitions of its museum pieces of jewellery in (Right): Alice in the 1940s. (Below): Alice with her sons Andrew and David, her daughter Pat and her grandchildren. Alice was known as GA (Granny Alice) in the family.
Lausanne. On the second
occasion,
in Zurich, her friend – the woman who headed the museum – spent three hours explaining every piece on show, including the actual wristwatch Louis Cartier had specifically made for his friend, Brazilian pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. The late Raymond Weil – who was not related to Alice – called her his “cousin of heart”. She came to know his family well and they met every year, enjoying dinners together and discussing their
12
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
IN LOVING MEMORY|SAJN
She believed that hard work wasn’t enough to be successful: it had to be combined with drive and passion.
turned out and whenever we were with her, it was like being with a family member. She really was an inspiration to us all. She was dearly loved and will be sorely missed.” Little Gems, Alice’s monthly column in SAJN, remains a favourite among our readers and delves into the exotic, exciting and glamorous world of jewellery and watches. In
common love of music. One of Alice’s
2008 Isikhova Publishing produced
prized possessions was a unique
an eponymous book comprising a
burgundy wristwatch Raymond had
collection of her most beautifully
given her. Many years later, when
written pieces, spanning decades
his successor and son-in-law, Olivier
of service to the industry, featur-
Bernheim, heard that it had been
ing fine jewellery, timepieces, dia-
stolen from her, he instructed his
monds, pearls, coloured stones, pre-
watchmakers to scour their store of
cious metals, auctions, luxury goods,
spares in order to recreate that
shopping, antiques, fashion and ce-
particular timepiece. When it was
lebrities. In 2018, Isikhova Publishing
completed, he sent it to her.
also published her biography, My
Alice’s other travels includ-
Notebook and Camera.
ed visits to the manufactur-
“I met Alice some 35 years ago,”
ing premises of most of the
recalls Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the
Swatch
including
Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA). “She
Omega, Longines, Tissot,
was the Assistant Editor and also in
Rado and Swatch.
charge of sales at the then Diamond
brands,
It was a particular hon-
News and SA Jeweller. Now known
our for her to be invited
as SA Jewellery News, this remains
to the Rolex factory in
the official journal of the JCSA. She
Geneva, which tradi-
was also a member of the Jewellex
tionally does not en-
Committee for many years and always
courage visitors. For
had good, practical advice to offer on
her 100th birthday, Rolex
how we could grow and market the
held an exclusive celebration in her
show. She was a judge of the Best
honour in Sandton, Johannesburg.
Stand Award for many years and
“Alice was always clear-thinking
would walk around the show with
and had an encyclopaedic knowledge
her clipboard, talking to all the people
of especially the watch industry,” re-
she’d known for so many years. She
members Jennifer Moss, Director of
was a remarkable person. I had a lot
Picot & Moss and close friend. “She
of respect for her and always looked
had many interests and was non-par-
up to her with much love.”
tisan. She was always magnificently
“Alice was a mentor and a great friend of our family for more than
(Above): A note from Cartier to Alice.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
30 years,” say Bernard and Hilary
(Above, from top): Alice at SIHH in Switzerland, International Watch Show – Geneva; Alice with the Jewellex Committee in mid-2000. (From left): Arnold Hirschman (Chairman), Lorna Delport (later Lloyd) from the Jewellery Council of SA, Alice (SAJN representative on the Jewellex Committee), Ivonah Heck (JCSA) and Rowan Jacobson (CJR) at a birthday function organised by Bernard and Hilary Stern for Alice.
13
SAJN |IN LOVING MEMORY Stern, former owners of Metal Concentrators, who on one occasion organised a glamorous birthday party for Alice. “There aren’t many people who can be regarded as icons, but Alice was without a doubt an icon not only to us, but to the international jewellery industry. We’ll miss her love, eloquence and wisdom.” Alice also had a wide network of friends abroad, thanks to her regular attendance of Baselworld in Switzerland and VicenzaOro in Italy, which she continued attending until her early 90s. “Alice was certainly cherished and very highly respected,”
says
Martin
Foster,
international journalist and reviewer of watches and luxury items for numerous publications. He knew her for many years and they frequently met up at Baselworld as fellow journalists. “She enjoyed an international standing in the industry that’s unheard of. And she enjoyed this pinnacle of status because she was just Alice, the Alice we all knew and loved.” At 101 years of age, Alice still lived in her own double-storey townhouse in a secure complex and
do for herself, she did. She was
although she had a caregiver for a
a truly remarkable person and a
few hours every day, she mostly did
wonderful friend.”
her own cooking and spent several hours
every
week
writing
her
cy to her sons Andrew and David,
articles for the magazine. “There
her daughter Pat, her seven grand-
were many things about her which I
children, four great-grandchildren
admired, but one that always stood
and many friends.
out was her determination to retain
“My gran was someone who in-
SAJN
spired awe in all of us. She was always
her
independence,”
says
Creative Director Joanne Brook, (Above): An award given to Alice in July 2000 by the Vicenza Trade Fair Board in Italy for support given to the Italian jewellery industry.
14
Alice leaves an enormous lega-
who worked closely with Alice at the magazine for 16 years. “Everything she was still physically able to
(Top): Alice on a UCT student tour of Europe in 1937. (Above): Alice on the Orient Express next to an actor impersonating detective Hercule Poirot.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
IN LOVING MEMORY|SAJN up to date with the latest trends and
us to learn – and to continue learning
of presentation, sales and marketing,
she could connect very easily with her
throughout our lives. She believed
and she had no hesitation in pursu-
grandchildren and great-grandchil-
that hard work wasn’t enough to be
ing a professional career, something
dren,” her grandson Daniel Levy lov-
successful: it had to be combined with
that was quite unusual for a woman
ingly recalls. “She always encouraged
drive and passion. She always offered
at that time. Most of all, I’ll miss my
very wise counsel and advice – trying
gran’s witty comments and insights
to guide each of us on our life paths –
into life. Her wisdom and experience
usually with an intuitive understand-
were second to none.”
(Above): Alice with Joanne Brook from SAJN.
ing of what was best for us in each
SAJN extends its deepest con-
situation. She had an amazing knowl-
dolences to her family and wishes
edge of the arts, including music (she
them long life.
was an accomplished pianist), archi-
Alice, you have left some won-
tecture, design and, of course, the
derful memories that will never fade
written word. She also understood
from our hearts. Thank you, our
business, including the importance
dearest friend, and rest in peace.
Alice’s great-granddaughter, Arielle, gave the following speech at her 98th birthday party. “Today I am going to talk about
ESPECIALLY in the heat and the
my
rain, ESPECIALLY as it was uphill.
great-granny
–
Alexandra
Stern-Levy-Weil. She was born 14 March 1919. That’s 98 years ago. “The most interesting thing about my great-granny is that
“Her father, Elias Stern, started
She writes eight articles a month for the magazine and is very well known in the jewellery business.
the plastics factory called Addis.
Through her work she travelled
Your Tupperware may even have
to lots of interesting places, in-
been made by the company.
cluding Hong Kong, Paris, Gene-
even though she is 98, she still
“She married Aubrey Levy at
va, Zurich and Venice. She says the
works. But before I tell you about
the Gardens Synagogue in Cape
best part of her job was the travel
her career, let me tell you a little
Town and moved to Johannes-
and the many friends she made all
about her.
burg, where she had one child –
around the world.
Alexandra Stern was born in Cape Town in 1919. Although her name is Alexandra, she is known as Alice and we call her Granny Al-
who is my grandfather, Andrew David Levy. Aubrey Levy died in 1958, when my grandfather was 11.
“I would love to have a career that lets me travel and meet lots of friends. “So why do I call her the Google
ice, or I like to call her the Google
Soon after that she started
Granny. When I was in Cape Town
working and remarried Alan Weil,
“She says that work has changed
I visited her home in Cape Town.
also known as ‘Boss’ and had two
drastically: The work she does has
children, Besi and David.
changed because of technology.
“Alice went to primary school at
Granny?
the Tamboerskloof Primary School.
“She had a good career and
She uses the Internet for a lot of
She and her friends said that TKPS
then she retired. That could have
her research and told me she loves
stood for ‘Teach Kids Proper Sense’
been the end of her working life.
Google! The way the magazine is
She told me she never minded
“BUT In 1978 she started work-
produced has also changed. Also,
going to school, as she had lots
ing as a journalist. She was 59. She
she says a computer is better than
of friends who lived close by to
worked for a magazine called SA
a typewriter!
her house BUT it was a long walk,
Jeweller and still works for them!
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
She really is the Google Granny.”
15
MESSAGE FROM THE CEO|SAJN
Message from the CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) IT HAS BEEN 121 DAYS SINCE THE
We have observed correct proce-
President announced the official
dures when considering retrench-
lockdown of our country due to the
ments. The council will continue
COVID-19 pandemic.
to assist members through the
During this time, our industry
SA Informal Traders’ Alliance to
has experienced much turmoil, with
negotiate better rentals with land-
many companies facing bankruptcies
lords, especially members who are
and retrenchments.
not yet operating. We have also put
The Jewellery Council conducted
in a request to the SA Diamond &
some research, which we would like
Precious Metals Regulator for leni-
to share with you:
ency regarding renewal applications
• 36 companies will close due to the
from members.
repercussions of COVID-19.
Slowly, we have all started to
• Seven branches will close (this
adapt to a new normal. There is new
loyalty and retention, bring jewellery
excludes chain stores).
hope and companies are diversifying
retailers and their offerings directly
• 455 jobs have been lost to date
their businesses in an attempt to
to the consumer through online
and 245 job losses are foreseen
keep going.
store traffic and in real-time (feet-
The JCSA is delighted to announce
in-store), and ensure consumers
• 94 companies applied for govern-
the opening of sales bookings for
identify with the JCSA members’
ment incentives. Thirty-nine of
members to advertise in the first is-
code of conduct so that they can
those were granted them, 48
sue of JZA – Your Jewellery Maga-
buy jewellery with confidence. The
were unsuccessful and 14 were
zine, SA’s first and only dedicated
magazine further aims to promote
partially successful.
consumer retail jewellery magazine.
the collective corporate identity of
in the near future.
The council and its staff have
The JCSA has officially endorsed
generic retail jewellery, as well as all
made themselves available to assist
the magazine, which will be pub-
individual brands, and rebuild and
members during this period, spe-
lished by Isikhova Media. The first
retain active, loyal consumers.
cifically to comply with COVID-19
issue will appear in November 2020.
Members will receive an email
regulations and the Disaster Man-
We are thrilled to be part of this
communication inviting them to par-
agement Act. We have provided
publication. Our industry has had
members with standard operating
to rethink much of what we do
procedures and checklists, as well as
and how we do it. JZA is part of
resource and policy packs. Although
our strategy for doing just that. The
some members have been success-
publication will develop and sustain
ful in applying to the UIF TERS Fund,
a highly focused consumer presence
Lorna Lloyd
many have not.
to help retailers rebuild customer
Chief Executive Officer
Does your advertising feature the JCSA logo? Do you have the correct version?
ticipate.
Remember, this affords you nationwide recognition – whether a wholesaler, manufacturer or retailer – as adhering to the Council’s Code of Ethics and Conduct. And it tells consumers they can buy with confidence too. This is the right logo to use. If you need it, please email admin@jewellery.org.za
NEWS|SAJN
(Above): For Mandela Day this year, Metal Concentrators (MetCon), in association with Work 4 A Living, bought and assembled stationery packs for a childcare centre in Khayelitsha, supporting children whose education has been affected by the pandemic. And because nobody can learn on an empty stomach, basic food supplies were also taken to the centre.
WFDB ACTING PRESIDENT CALLS ON GOVERNMENTS TO STEP UP The
Coronavirus
has
China, Hong Kong, Singapore and
wreaked havoc on the health, social
other markets were in lockdown,
He has called on governments
fabric and economies of the world.
then Europe and the Middle East, and
around the world to provide real
“The disastrous effects of the virus
finally the USA. “Our markets closed
assistance to the diamond industry
on our health and welfare are
one after the other, we ourselves
in the following ways:
matched by its destruction of our
were forced to stay at home and our
• Offer substantial government
livelihoods and economic security,”
businesses and livelihoods suffered,”
guarantees to back loans to the
says World Federation of Diamond
says Dvash. “The diamond industry
diamond industry.
Bourses (WFDB) Acting President
was among the first to be battered
• Define the diamond industry as a
Yoram Dvash. “It seems that all
by the crisis and will likely be among
preferred industry, rather than an
branches
the last sectors to recover.”
industry at risk.
of
the
pandemic
economy
are
on five continents,” says Dvash.
affected; for some, the crisis may
The current crisis exacerbates the
be a direct hit from which they may
huge systemic problems which have
individuals in financial distress.
never recover.
impacted the industry for the past
• Institute marketing support
“Governments the world over
decade – very low profitability, a
programmes.
are struggling with these issues:
large price gap between polished and
• Where applicable, reduce taxes
how to keep their populations
rough, and a major credit deficiency.
on imports of rough and polished
safe from the virus, while allowing
“The major diamond centres
their economies to return to some
have seen trade come to an almost
• Streamline international trade
semblance of normality? How much
complete standstill. This is the worst
procedures that affect the
direct aid to provide to citizens
crisis the global diamond industry
diamond trade.
and businesses? What will huge
has experienced in modern history
“Of course, the right package
budget deficits mean for the world
and it isn’t clear how we’ll emerge
of government aid will differ from
economy, going forward?”
from it.
country to country, according to
The world diamond industry has
diamond
and
diamonds.
diamond
conditions in each location. What’s
been particularly hard hit by the
jewellery sectors account for billions
important is that now is the time
pandemic. With its main markets
of dollars in revenue worldwide
for our elected officials to assist our
spread from Asia to North America,
and employ hundreds of millions of
magnificent industry in its hour of
the diamond industry’s shut-down
people. When our industry rumbles,
need, so that we can emerge even
followed the path of the virus. First
it can create an avalanche for millions
stronger than before,” adds Dvash.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
“The
• Provide grants to companies and
19
SAJN |NEWS
MORE THAN 300 COMPANIES TO EXHIBIT AT VOICE IN VICENZA More than 300 companies will
Damiani, together with Crivelli, Leo
watch
exhibit at VOICE – VicenzaOro
Pizzo and Mirco Visconti from the
producers Corum and Victorinox, as
International Community Event, the
high jewellery district of Valenza
well as German brand Junghans. The
innovative format which the Italian
Po’. Attending from the districts of
complete list will be available shortly
Exhibition Group is organising to
Vicenza, with Fope, are Roberto Coin,
at: www.vicenzaoro.com/it/voice.
take place, live, at the Expo Centre
Pesavento, Karizia, Chrysos, Ronco,
A great system initiative, accessible
in Vicenza from 12-14 September
Chiampesan, Riccardo Orsato, Alessi
to all Italian and foreign B2B traders
2020. It will be the first opportunity
Domenico, Silvex and Daveri Vicenza.
and buyers, will be the ability to
for the gold and jewellery industry
Participants from the district of Arezzo
physically touch the products in
to reunite and launch business and
include Unoaerre, Giordini, Richline,
Vicenza in a particular outfitted
export activities since the standstill
Fratelli Chini, Quadrifoglio and Amen.
contest with an elegant look and feel.
enforced by the pandemic.
From the Campania region will be
Due to their sheer size, the large expo
A new layout will be done in order
Aucella, Bruno Mazza, Coscia, De
centre areas, while rigorously arranged
for attendees to attend in total safe-
Simone, Idea Coral and Mattia Mazza,
to conform to health regulations, will
ty, planned under the banner of the
who will bring to VOICE the art of
allow for fluid access and maximum
#safebusiness protocol defined by
corals and cameos. Enzo Liverino will
usability of the spaces, thus avoiding
the Independent Evaluation Group in
also return to Vicenza to strengthen
lengthy waiting times. Moreover,
line with the trade show community.
the VOICE community.
VOICE will transmit its content in
will
see
Swiss
The exhibition area at VOICE will be
Participants from the rest of Italy
worldwide streaming – especially for
accompanied by conferences, train-
will include the likes of brands such
areas which are still unable to travel
ing and business matching.
as Annamaria Cammilli, Rosato,
to Italy – on its website, as well as its
Pianegonda,
Rue
YouTube, Facebook and Instagram
decided to partake in VOICE as the
des Milles, not to mention high-
channels, thus taking its exhibitors’
international visibility event after
level foreign exhibitors like Spanish
collections and innovations to the
seven months of lockdown include
company Damaso Martinez. The
international markets.
The sector’s key players who have
20
segment
Brosway
and
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
NEWS|SAJN
DIB TO OFFER SERVICES TO DIAMOND AND JEWELLERY SECTORS Digital International Bank (DIB), a
operates within a strict compliance
est of the 12 regional reserve banks
financial entity headquartered in
framework, with an in-house intel-
in the USA.
the American territory of Puerto
ligence unit monitoring clients and
DIB has positioned itself as a bou-
Rico, has announced that it will
transactions to ensure the financial
tique bank attuned to meeting its
begin offering services internation-
and legal integrity of all business
clients’ specific needs, with banking
ally. Among the clientele it will be
conducted under its umbrella.
services customised whenever possi-
catering to are companies and indi-
DIB is licensed and regulated by
viduals involved in the diamond and
the Office of the Commissioner of
jewellery industries.
Financial Institutions of the Com-
According to a spokesperson,
monwealth of Puerto Rico, which is
banking services will initially include
responsible for supervising financial
account management, the interna-
institutions in the American terri-
tional transfer of funds and bank
tory and is a member of the US As-
card facilities. A full array of services,
sociation of Banking Supervision. As
including credit and financing, will
a Puerto Rican-headquartered insti-
be added at a later date.
tution, it falls under the supervisory
As a banking institution specialis-
jurisdiction of the Federal Reserve
ing in international commerce, DIB
Bank of New York, which is the larg-
ble to meet the requirements of individuals or companies.
SAJN |NEWS
12CT BLUE DIAMOND SMASHES ESTIMATE AT CHRISTIE’S A blue diamond ring was the top
Other notable items included a
carat, beating its US$1,3 million high
seller at Christie’s Hong Kong in the
necklace featuring a 19,53ct Burmese
estimate. A Kashmir sapphire and
first live Magnificent Jewels auction
star ruby pendant, which brought
diamond necklace also fetched well
since the COVID-19 pandemic began.
in US$2,7 million, or US$136 000
above its US$1 million high valuation,
The piece, featuring a marquise-
per carat. That piece was estimated
going for US$1,5 million.
cut,
12,11ct
at US$2,3 million-US$3,6 million.
“Collectors from 14 countries and
went
A cut-cornered, rectangular step-
five continents around the world
for US$15,9 million at the 9 July
cut, D-colour, internally flawless,
bid enthusiastically,” says Vickie Sek,
sale, against its high estimate of
type IIa diamond ring weighing
Chairperson of Jewellery for Asia Pa-
US$12,3 million. The diamond sold
17,95ct garnered US$1,6 million,
cific at Christie’s. She adds that jewels
after 15 minutes of fierce bidding,
within
achieved “strong prices for top-quali-
fetching US$1,31 million per carat,
US$1,9 million valuation.
internally
fancy-intense-blue,
flawless
stone,
says Christie’s.
its
US$1,3
million-
ty diamonds, jadeite and rubies”.
Meanwhile, another marquise-
Some 82% of lots sold at the
cut,
fancy-intense-blue
The auction house held its live
diamond
Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale on
auction, yielding a total of US$39,8
also performed well. The 2,08ct
22 July, which will be followed by
million. The event was 92% sold by
internally flawless stone went for
its New York event on 29 July. –
value of items available.
US$1,5 million, or US$719 000 per
Rapaport
925
925
Sterling Silver Collection 92 5
925
5 92
925 92 5
925 92 5
925
925
Available Online www.annab.co.za
Thank you for making a difference
The Jewellery Hub applaud you ADDRESS: 15 Reitz rd, Farrarmere, Benoni | TEL: 083 326 5746 | EMAIL: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za | WEBSITE: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za
SAJN |NEWS
ANNOUNCING SA’S FIRST AND ONLY DEDICATED CONSUMER JEWELLERY MAGAZINE Independent
Isikhova
adapting our skills and offerings
Media has announced the launch of
within the context of a new and
JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, SA’s
challenging consumer landscape,”
first and only dedicated consumer
says Jason Aarons, Isikhova Media’s
retail jewellery publication.
Publishing Director. “The publication’s
Officially
publisher
endorsed
by
the
focus is on bringing jewellery retailers
Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA),
and their offerings directly to the
the title is an associative, short
consumer through online store traffic
and snappy acronym for “Jewellery
and in real time (feet-in-store).
South Africa” and will be published
“It further aims to promote the
online seasonally, with the launch
collective
of
Other titles published by Isikhova
issue appearing in November.
generic retail jewellery, as well as all
Media include SA Jewellery News,
individual brands, and rebuild and
Jewellery Biz-News, African Odyssey
retain active, loyal consumers.”
and Jewellex Today!
“JZA was born from our ‘ideas trust’ of reworking, reframing and
corporate
identity
SEPTEMBER HONG KONG SHOW POSTPONED TO NOVEMBER The September Hong Kong show
That rule will remain in place until at
can make purchases just before the
has been postponed to November
least 18 September.
fourth-quarter holiday season.
due to the Coronavirus and related
“This rescheduling was reached
“An international jewellery trade
travel restrictions, says organiser In-
with the well-being of our exhibi-
fair in November will provide Hong
forma Market.
tors, visitors, partners and colleagues
Kong and the international jewel-
Jewellery & Gem World (JGW)
as our top priority,” says David
lery industry with a physical trading
Hong Kong, formerly the September
Bondi, Informa’s Senior Vice-Presi-
event when the market fully reo-
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair,
dent for Asia.
pens,” says Lawrence Ma, President
is now due to take place from 9-13
The change is a “one-off” arrange-
November 2020. It will run at only
ment which Informa made largely in
one venue – AsiaWorld-Expo –
response to industry members ask-
Exhibitors’ contracts, payments
instead of the usual two.
ing for a trading forum that would
and special benefits will carry over
Under the previous schedule, the
enable them to secure orders before
to the new dates. Exhibitors who
loose-stone exhibition was set for
the end of 2020. The event will return
choose to skip the November event
13-17 September at AsiaWorld-Expo
to its September schedule in 2021,
can roll their payments over to the
near Hong Kong International Air-
says Bondi. In a normal year, the
port. The Hong Kong Convention &
show is timed so that buyers
Kong, China.
September 2021 edition. The show will follow strict
Exhibition Centre in the Wan Chai dis-
health guidelines. Informa is
trict was due to host the finished jew-
also working on a digital event
ellery section from 15-19 September.
that will launch later this year.
However, the spread of COVID-19
24
of the Diamond Federation of Hong
The
group’s
smaller
June
has forced Hong Kong to introduce
show, Jewellery & Gem Asia Hong
a compulsory 14-day quarantine for
Kong, will next take place in June
all arrivals, making it impractical for
2021, since the 2020 event was can-
overseas visitors to attend the show.
celled. – Rapaport SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
SAJN |WOMEN’S MONTH
13
women who inspire
9 August is National Women’s Day in SA and the month of August is National Women’s Month, when we celebrate women’s strength, resilience and contributions to society and the country. SAJN pays tribute to some of the remarkable women in our local diamond and jewellery industry whose hard work and dedication continue to inspire us.
26
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
WOMEN’S MONTH|SAJN
Lorna Lloyd Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) Chief Executive Officer In 1990, after studying for three years
“I’ve always worked on the premise
through tough times due to the
at Wits Technikon, Lorna started
that business is about relationships,
worldwide recession, but we’ve
working for a lawyer’s firm that ad-
and I’m grateful for the ones I’ve
kept going,” says Lorna. A more
ministered the JCSA, which included
formed in the industry over the
recent project, which she is intense-
manufacturers, retailers, the Diamond
years,” she says.
ly excited about, is the Jewellery
Club of SA (as it was known then),
In 2013, she was appointed CEO
& Watch Fair, which the JCSA will
the Master Diamond Cutters and the
and a new chapter began. Her new
host for the first time in 2021. This
Rough Diamond Dealers Associations
job involved implementing the deci-
retail jewellery event will run as an
in the Diamond Exchange Building
sions of the board and putting into
independent show from Jewellex,
in De Villiers Street, Johannesburg.
action the strategy and business
but during the same weekend, and
She was 21 years old and particularly
plans of the company. Jewellex Af-
aims to create an environment not
enjoyed working with the diamond
rica, the SAJC’s premier jewellery
only to sell more jewellery to con-
dealers and manufacturers and get-
and watch show, has become her
sumers, but to highlight jewellery as
ting to know the diamond business.
“baby” over the years. “It’s gone
the ultimate gift of love.
In 1997, Lorna joined Nine Dots, which took over the administration and marketing of the industry and she spent another seven years building solid relationships. The JCSA then decided to bring the administrative function in-house and Lorna worked herself up through the ranks, initially as the General Manager. In 2006, she became the Chief Operations Officer of the council. Lorna describes herself as a hard
Who’s your biggest inspiration? “Although many people inspire me for different reasons, my dad has inspired me since I was a little girl. He taught me good values, to be honest, kind and to always do the right thing. He treated my mother with respect and brought us up in a Christian home. He was the one we went to for advice and wise words. My dad instilled an ethos of hard work in us. He taught me to make good decisions and trust my gut feeling. I always had his support and a shoulder to cry on when things were tough. Thank you, Dad, for being my inspiration. RIP 2/2/2020.”
worker with a positive attitude. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
27
SAJN |WOMEN'S MONTH
02
Nontando Molefe Phatsima Jewellery Designs Founder and owner
Nontando is the founder of Phatsima
Damelin and Design@50, which is
Jewellery Designs. Growing up in a
powered by the Gauteng Growth
Phatsima Jewellery Designs has
family of artists, musicians and ac-
Development Agency and the Jew-
grown from being a one-woman
tors, she developed a passion for art
ellery Council of SA.
venture to having a team who show-
at a young age and excelled in it at
for the industry and the public.
Nontando has designed jewel-
case their collections both nationally
lery pieces for many well-known
and internationally. Nontando’s ac-
She obtained a National Diploma
companies and was a finalist in sev-
colades include being awarded 2018
in Jewellery Design and Manufac-
eral competitions, including that of
Young Entrepreneur of the Year by
turing from the University of Johan-
AngloGold Ashanti Auditions Gold
the Independent Pan African Youth
nesburg in 2006 and then enrolled
Jewellery Design.
Parliament and 2019 SME of the
the National School of the Arts.
for a course in business manage-
After working for a number of
Year by the SME Champions Forum.
ment at Excel Life Business School.
leading jewellers where her duties
She was also featured as one of the
Having realised the shift to using
included business development, de-
Top 40 Businesswomen in SA in
technology in manufacturing, in
signing, management, manufactur-
DESTINY magazine.
2014 Nontando did a post-grad-
ing, marketing, operations, technical
Nontando aims to have Phatsi-
uate course in advanced jewellery
skills, retail merchandising and sales,
ma Jewellery Designs, representing
designing and marketing which
Nontando opened Phatsima Jewel-
proudly South African pieces, ex-
focused on customer relationship
lery Designs in 2010. It specialises in
ported around Africa and the world
management, jewellery CAD design
jewellery using sterling silver, gold,
and helping the local jewellery in-
and printing. She studied through
platinum, diamonds and gemstones
dustry grow.
What advice can you offer young women aspiring to enter the jewellery industry? “Do your research on the industry and understand the different sectors which form its value chain. Study hard and obtain qualifications for the field in which you want to specialise. Above all, have a genuine passion for the craft – not for the money it can bring you – because this is a tough industry. Relationships are everything, so be authentic and truthful in everything you do. Reach for the stars!”
28
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
WOMEN'S MONTH|SAJN
03
Nikki White Virtue Diamonds Co-founder and partner
In 2009, Nikki and her (now) husband
encouraged her to persevere and she
“She’s the glue that keeps us all to-
Justin moved to Durban, where she
came to earn respect and trust across
gether,” says Nikki.
started working for his family-owned
the board, from diamond dealers to
business, Natural Precious Metals,
jewellers and private clients.
doing administrative tasks.
She hopes the family will have its own diamond grading laboratory
“It’s been satisfying to see how
in the near future and says she
The following year she was intro-
many women have entered the in-
finds the stones as intriguing and
duced to the diamond industry by
dustry over the years,” she says. “Our
irresistible today as she did when she
her father-in-law, John, who believed
grit, combined with our femininity,
first started working with them.
clients would appreciate the added
make us a force to be reckoned with.”
“John always said: ‘Diamonds are
service of gradings of their diamond
In 2017 she, John and Justin en-
like women – no two are exactly alike.
jewellery. Nikki was duly trained in
tered into a partnership and entrust-
That’s what’s beautiful about both
this skill.
ed Nikki with the capital to launch
diamonds and women’,” laughs Nikki.
In 2012, she obtained her Dia-
Virtue Diamonds (Pty) Ltd. She is
monds & Diamond Grading Diploma
grateful to both her husband and
at EGL in Cape Town. As a woman
father-in-law for the knowledge and
Who inspires you?
aged just 26 at the time, Nikki strug-
guidance they have given her over
“My mother, Maria-
gled to overcome prejudice in what
the years, adding that her mother-
Angela Pavlakis, who’s the
was a male-dominated, ageist indus-
in-law Avrile has inspired her to per-
strongest and most loving
try. However, the support she enjoyed
severe through the toughest of times
woman I know.”
from her husband and father-in-law
and never take “no” for an answer.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
29
SAJN |WOMEN’S MONTH
04
Charlotte Crosse Metal Concentrators Public Relations Manager and part-owner
From listed companies and flower-
MetCon expresses their vision of the
Charlotte’s attitude has always
farming to investment management
evolution of African wealth through
been one of interest and immer-
and precious metals, Charlotte’s
unique product offerings that elevate
sion. Though the industry was rela-
experience has been anything but
and celebrate culture in both the
tively unfamiliar ground in the early
limited. As Public Relations Manager,
local and global markets. Charlotte
days, her love for art, creativity and
part-owner
at
sees the company’s relationships
detail made her eager to learn and
MetCon, a leading South African
with jewellers as all-important and
taught her what makes creators
refinery, she is an advocate for
strives to offer them the service and
and consumers tick.
jewellers, creators and maintaining
exposure she believes they deserve.
(and
all-rounder)
the style, sophistication and service that make our industry so special.
She
further
continues
to
throw
Charlotte, her husband Neville and
Six Rings and, more recently, the
of positivity, hope and growth.
sons Grant and Darren purchased
Lockdown Competition. She has also
Together with the MetCon team,
the majority shareholding in MetCon
brought her unique perspective into
Charlotte is doing all she can to
in 2015 and have been growing
play as a judge for PlatAfrica and
support the industry by developing
with
other jewellery competitions.
sustainable practices which ensure
ever
since.
with
lockdown,
curve balls, she retains an outlook
company
creativity
encouraged 2019’s
the
jeweller
has
Though 2020, with its COVID-19
Thanks to their strong emphasis on
Regarding jewellery as an art form
contribution, community and stories,
and every piece as an investment,
safe and responsible growth in the future.
What is your personal philosophy? “It’s faith-based and rooted in growth. Never stop learning, do what you do well, be mindful, stay humble and always, always, live with style. Challenges are opportunities: make sure they reveal a character you’re proud of. My mantra for the current circumstances is: ‘Live carefully, but not fearfully.’”
30
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
WOMEN’S MONTH|SAJN
05
Brenda Rosenthal EGL South Africa Managing Director and shareholder At the age of 16, Brenda started
three years, during which one of its
born. In 2006 she completed a GIA
working at Gerald’s Jewellers in
owners, Bernie Sher, taught her a
course in coloured stone essentials
Eastgate, Johannesburg, as a casual
great deal about the industry and
and in 2007, she had her daughter.
and soon developed a love of
running a business.
In 2019, when Lowe retired, Bren-
gemstones. In 1993 she completed
In 2002 Brenda returned to EGL,
da took over as Managing Director
a diamond-grading and gemstone
having been offered the position
of EGL SA. In March this year she se-
course with Mac McKenzie at the
of General Manager and Head
cured the business from its overseas
Gem Education Centre. She went
Grader. “Alan invested a lot of
shareholders and now, for the first
on to complete a diamonds and
time and faith in me, nurturing
time – with the company celebrating
diamond grading course through
me to take over a business he’d
its 40th anniversary – it is a proudly
the Gemological Institute of America
grown for many years,” she says.
South African business, majority-
(GIA) in 1996, while working in a
The following year, her son was
owned and run by a woman.
permanent position at Gerald’s. After securing an interview with EGL SA’s former Managing Director,
What is the best career decision you’ve ever made?
Alan Lowe, she was hired by the
“There’s never been a ‘best’ career decision. I’ve worked hard
company as a Diamond Grader in
to maximise every opportunity that came my way, never gave
May 1996, where she remained for
up and followed my instincts to get where I am today. My
three years. She then travelled for a
greatest achievement is being a single working mother of two
few months and, upon returning to
independent, incredible children.”
SA, worked at Unity Diamonds for SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
31
SAJN |WOMEN’S MONTH
06
Isabella Kobela Isabella Jewellers & Refiners Founder and owner
After completing a nursing course
originally started as a jewellery man-
cling course through Emak Refining
at a hospital in North West Prov-
ufacturing and designing company,
& Recycling Systems.
ince, Isabella started her career as
but in 2011 it expanded to refining
a nurse. However, she was already
and recycling precious metals.
She is proud of running one of the first black women-owned
determined to have her own busi-
Isabella has completed a gold-
jewellery and refinery businesses in
ness one day – and, after much
smith course at the Bellville Jewellery
the country and wants her work to
thought, decided it would be in the
Institute, a rough diamond evalua-
inspire others to realise their own
jewellery industry.
tion course at the Diamond Educa-
dreams with perseverance, focus
tion College and a refining and recy-
and passion.
Isabella Jewellers & Refiners was
What are you most grateful for? “The opportunity to learn new skills every day and better myself.”
32
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
WOMEN’S MONTH|SAJN
07
Sharon Eades Cape Precious Metals Founder and owner Sharon’s career started in the mo-
years later, in 1994, the line for
happiness. She represented Western
tor industry as a Service Reception-
which she worked in the company
Province in hockey, headed the
ist, where she loved her daily tasks
was closed. It then entered into
provincial side’s selection body and
of dealing with clients and address-
a partnership and launched Cape
co-ordinated its management and
ing their problems. After being re-
Precious Metals (CPM).
coaching teams for several years, 14
trenched, she was offered a position
Fortunately, Sharon had begun
of which saw her chairing her club
at a company where a colleague took
calling on jewellers while working
while still playing in the first division.
her under his wing and taught her
for the previous company and was
She also coached a major league
about silver recovery from x-ray film
aware of the need to grow their
softball team and was awarded
and analysing silver percentages. She
product range. After considerably
Springbok colours for umpiring.
soon became the Assistant Repre-
hard work, she managed to get CPM
Sharon also loves golf, badminton
sentative for the silver division. A year
on the map. Her biggest challenge
and exploring the African continent.
later, she was transferred from Dur-
was getting jewellers to accept her
At 62, she is working from
ban to open a branch in Port Eliza-
as a business-owner, rather than a
home during the lockdown and
beth. Sharon spent five years there
representative who simply collected
admits she has finally realised
running the branch, paddle-skiing
sweeps and sold fine gold.
that CPM’s extremely competent
and studying at night.
2010 brought some excitement
management team and staff can
when it was invited to enter the
sail the ship without her “nagging
located to Cape Town, the company
Manufacturing
and interfering”!
eventually agreed, on condition she
Topco Business Awards and Sharon
continued heading the Port Elizabeth
was nominated for Small Business-
office and visited it once a month.
woman of the Year. CPM won both
After repeated requests to be re-
She found the Mother City to be
somewhat
challenging,
category
of
the
categories.
What would you most like to tell your 13-year-old self?
but
Her career with the company,
soon became involved in sport and
her passion for sport (which she
“Life is great – live it to
immersed herself in the beauty of
shares with her partner Olga) and
the fullest.”
the winelands and mountains. Eight
travelling have brought Sharon much
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
33
SAJN |WOMEN’S MONTH
08
Sivan Finhasi Sivana Diamonds Founder and owner
Coming from humble beginnings,
din, grandson of the late jewellery
Sivan established Sivana Diamonds
titan Sid Forman. From this amal-
in 2010. Her wealth of knowledge
gamation, Sivana Africa was born.
and experience in this field has
Combining artistic finesse with be-
enabled the company to become
spoke artistry, Sivana Africa is locat-
a
ed in Sandton City, Johannesburg,
master craftsmen in SA. Experts in
and offers truly unique items.
the trade work closely with the stu-
highly
respected
diamond
distributor worldwide, with offices in the USA, Israel and SA.
Sivan’s entrepreneurial ambitions
dents, shaping their raw talent into
Having always had a passion for
always included a desire to empower
true brilliance. This training last two
fine jewellery, particularly designs
young South African youth and she
to five years and thus demands long-
using diamonds, Sivan took part in
duly launched an internship pro-
term commitment and relentless hard
international jewellery competitions,
gramme to provide skills develop-
work from the apprentices. They are
which fuelled her desire to start a
ment. The programme, developed by
also taught business skills which will
venture offering one-of-a-kind items.
Sivana Diamonds and Sivana Africa,
enable them to become entrepre-
The next step in Sivan’s trajectory
is a unique initiative which focuses
neurs in the jewellery industry. The
was merging her business savvy and
on design training. A number of stu-
programme has changed the lives of
passion with third-generation jewel-
dents are enrolled annually, with the
these youngsters and given them ac-
lery designer and artist, Trent Gad-
aim of creating a new generation of
cess to viable, successful careers.
What is happiness for you? “Happiness to me is when my apprentices succeed in opening their own businesses, realising my dream of empowering South Africa’s youth.”
34
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
WOMEN’S MONTH|SAJN
09
Eve Scholtz Digital Wax Co-founder and owner Eve entered the jewellery profession
she embarked on a journey that has
Eve and her clients. However, the
in the early 1980s as an apprentice
lasted 37 years – and counting.
concept of designing jewellery using
goldsmith. “In those days, we still
Her travel dreams, however, did
software and milling out models on
embraced the laid-back, creative
not materialise until the ’90s, as
CNC machines was eagerly accepted
hippie culture of the ’60s,” she
love, marriage and children delayed
by the local industry. It took a lot of
recalls. She also remembers her first
those plans.
patience, dedication and training,
interview, where the long-haired
Eve opened her first jewellery
but it paid off: today SA has some
owner of the jewellery outlet walked
store, Romancing the Stone, in Cen-
of the most advanced CAD jewellery
around barefoot and bare-chested,
turion in the early ’90s. Then, in
designers in the world.
explaining that the job was all hard
2005, she and her business partner
This year Eve celebrates her 15th
work and sweat and paid R60 a
Albert Maree started Digital Wax,
anniversary with Digital Wax, which
week. However, as something of
which heralded a new era in jewel-
is still at the forefront of software
a free spirit herself, she dreamed
lery design and manufacturing in
and hardware design technologies.
of seeing the world and wanted a
SA and the world.
“I’ve loved my life’s journey with all
career that would enable her to travel
Digital technology was still in its
the interesting people I’ve met in
and work. Deciding it was worth
infancy at the time, so running the
our industry. I’ve been enriched by
sacrificing four years of hard labour,
business presented challenges for
them all,” she says.
What’s your strategy for success? “I’ve never really had a strategy, other than solid principles and standards which I incorporate in my business. Believe in yourself, your product and your vision. Always under-promise and over-deliver. Remember that an informed client is a happy client. Strive for service excellence and, above all, be available, helpful, truthful and transparent.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
35
10
SAJN |WOMEN’S MONTH
Angela Yeung Impilo Collection Founder and owner
Born in Hong Kong, Angela immi-
Auditions Gold Jewellery Design
Hope, Resthaven, Rare Diseases and
grated to SA as a young child. She
Competition for her elaborate gold-
Read to Rise. She was also invited
was inspired by the fine jewellery
en headpiece entitled Connect. In
to sit on the judging panel for Mrs
she found in the Far East, as well as
2017, she was the sole person in-
World 2017, where women from 40
by Africa’s abundant precious met-
vited by the Chinese Ministry of
countries represented beauty, em-
als and minerals, and she believes
Culture and the Embassy of China
powerment, justice and equality.
that the 21st century belongs to
in SA to collaborate with Chu Yan
In 2018 Angela participated in
the women of this continent. An-
(China’s first PhD graduate in fash-
the Mt Kilimanjaro climb with Trek-
gela studied metalsmith crafting and
ion design and a professor at the
4Mandela for Caring4Girls – a phys-
graduated as an Accredited Jewel-
Beijing Institute of Fashion Tech-
ical, mental and spiritual challenge
lery Professional from the GIA.
nology) to design a contemporary
in celebration of the Nelson Mande-
In 2005, she founded her own
jewellery collection specifically to
la centenary year to raise funds for
jewellery company, Impilo Collec-
complement Chu’s “A Date With
sanitary pads for South African girls.
tion, specialising in the design and
1 000 Years” clothing collection. In
Last year she climbed Kilimanjaro
manufacture of both bespoke jew-
the same year, Angela was invited
again, this time with SA’s former
ellery for private clients and con-
to join the exclusive South African
Public Protector Prof Thuli Madon-
temporary art jewellery collections.
Diamond Dealers Club, heading its
sela, not only to support Caring-
(“Impilo” is an isiZulu word which
corporate social responsibility ini-
4Girls and Trek4Mandela, but also
means “life”.) Her aim is to make
tiatives and becoming its first Asian
to raise funds for Trek100 – an initi-
every customer’s visit to the compa-
female executive member.
ative aiming to fine-tune leadership
ny an experience as unique as their own life story.
Passionate about giving back,
skills in young women worldwide.
she raised funds to support numer-
Angela was a finalist in the 2019
In 2014, Angela was one of two
ous charities, including CANSA SA,
Entrepreneur of the Year category of
winners in the AngloGold Ashanti
Feed SA, Guild Cottage, Rainbow of
the Women of Stature Awards 2019.
What are the most important lessons you’ve learnt? “Gratitude – I’m deeply grateful for every moment of my life. I’m inspired by a Buddhist quotation: ‘Suffer what there is to suffer and enjoy what there is to enjoy.’ I firmly believe that the sky’s the limit for women. Nothing is impossible!”
36
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
11
WOMEN’S MONTH|SAJN
Tennille Hoge Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies Partner
Tennille, a partner at Cape Watch
she offered a wider variety of
Tools & Jewellery Supplies since
implements that were more easily
2012, grew up in Pretoria and re-
available and reasonably priced.
members always being curious and
Between studies and selling tools,
energetic as a child. She was an
she also made jewellery from
apprentice for her father, who was
home. Her endeavours enabled her
an avid restorer of cars, as well as
to open her own workshop in her
a machine manufacturer and de-
parents’ garage and Tennille went
veloper for his own company. Her
on to qualify as a goldsmith and
Cape, Tennille effected a merger
pocket money was earned in his
purveyor of jewellery tools.
between
JewelQuip
and
Cape
workshop, where she learnt the in-
In 2003, she gained further sales
Watchmakers’ Supplies & Tools.
trinsic relationship between method
experience at a tools company and
The company was renamed Cape
and tool. Her technical interests
in 2007, she founded JewelQuip.
Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies
never diminished: at school she en-
Selling tools came naturally to her,
and she rapidly forged associa-
rolled for technical drawing and, as
since she used them herself daily,
tions with large brand dealerships,
the only girl in the class, coped ad-
and she could offer customers the
which gave her access to stringent
mirably competing with the boys.
implements they needed to solve
product support, the fulfilment of
their technical challenges.
KPI requirements and training.
In 2001 Tennille registered for jewellery design at the Pretoria
In 2008 JewelQuip moved to
Tennille prides herself on her
Technikon, as she enjoyed the
larger premises and employed its
expertise in Rhino and CAD, wax-
blend of creative and artisanal
first staff members, supported by
carving and model-making, and
skills. During her second year, she
a small, but loyal clientele. Tennille
has also undergone training in Italy
supplemented her studies by selling
quickly realised that the technical
in laser-cutting and welding, re-
jewellery tools from her car boot
industry was by no means a “man’s
pairs and maintenance, CNC cut-
to fellow students. The initiative
domain” and that women were
ting, pneumatic engraving, elec-
was very successful, since – with
equally able to succeed in it.
troplating, silver and gold casting
her natural technical aptitude –
In 2011, wanting to move to the
techniques and 3D printing.
What are your hopes for the trade? “That it will share my passion for empowering, educating and sharing knowledge in the industry. With that vision, we can only go from strength to strength.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
37
SAJN |WOMEN’S MONTH
12
Janine Venter JS Gems Owner and Managing Director
At just 19, having enrolled at univer-
the value of honesty, integrity and
closely-knit: good client and sup-
sity to study law, Janine was made
hard work,” she says.
plier relationships are critical to
an offer by a good friend of the fam-
Janine has performed various roles
success,” she says. “The industry,
ily who needed assistance with their
in the industry, including specialising
like most others, has gone through
jewellery store. That was where she
in small stones (melee) accompanied
many changes recently. The South
met a diamond dealer and was intro-
with certified, polished diamonds
African economy also affected the
duced to an industry she never knew
and treated black ones. In 2015 she
diamond trade negatively. I feel ex-
existed. Shortly afterwards, Janine
became the owner and MD of JS
tremely fortunate to still be stand-
began working for the dealer and law
Gems, supplying the diamond and
ing and attribute my success to my
quickly became a thing of the past.
jewellery industry.
clients and suppliers, who’ve stood
“Thanks to great mentorship, I learnt
“I believe the industry is very
by me throughout my journey.”
How do you balance your personal and professional lives? “It’s very difficult juggling the two, but as I’m very passionate about the industry and each of my clients, I don’t cut off 100% from them when I leave the office. I always appreciate a call or a check-in from a client.”
38
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
WOMEN’S MONTH|SAJN
13
Adine Lutz Ajanta Afrika Founder and owner
Adine started Ajanta Africa in 2006
stones to cut and polished gems for
with a relatively small selection of
the jewellery industry was a natural
stones. Over the years, through
progression.
much learning, strong relationships
extensively to source all her own
and building up a good reputation,
gems and explore the world.
Adine
now
travels
the business has grown and now has
“I feel it’s important to stay on the
an extensive range of coloured gems
pulse of worldwide trends. Jewellery,
and a very friendly, efficient team.
after all, is part of the fashion
“I’ve long had a sense for business
industry and stones are in demand
manufacturing areas. It’s therefore
and when I could combine it with
according to changing tastes not
encouraging that we have so many
my passion for stones, it was a per-
only in clothing trends, but also in
female business-owners and jewellers
fect match,” says Adine, who started
cuts and colours,” she says.
in SA,” says Adine. “In these times,
out in this field working with mineral
Ajanta Afrika is an all-female-run
we have to look at sustainability
specimens and rough stones. The ori-
business. “I find the international
in our business practices, inclusive
gin of the gems and their natural for-
gemstone
very
behaviour towards people of all
mations have always fascinated her.
male-dominated, whether at trade
gender orientations and races, and
shows and mining sources or in
the ethical sourcing of material.”
The transformation from rough
industry
to
be
How do you make decisions? “Like everything else in life, decisions should be balanced between facts and one’s gut feeling. I have strong trust in my instinct and I’m a fast thinker, so my decisions are both rational and sensory.”
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
39
SAJN |DIAMONDS
Feriel Zerouki, De Beers’ Senior Vice-President of International Relations & Ethical Initiatives, will become the first woman to head the World Diamond Council (WDC), which aims to keep conflict diamonds out of the supply chain. ACCORDING
TO
WDC
RULES,
Zerouki will automatically become President when Edward Asscher’s current term ends in two years’ time. Asscher, President of the Amsterdam-based Royal Asscher Diamond Company, was Vice-President of the WDC and took over from Stephane Fischler in June. This is his second
Zerouki will be the first woman to head the WDC
term at the helm, after serving as try or part of a jewellery-focused or-
In 2018, De Beers partnered with
Last year Zerouki was the recipi-
ganisation which has made a trans-
the Diamond Development Initia-
ent of the Initiatives in Art & Culture
formational contribution to ethical
tive to launch GemFair, a pilot pro-
(IAC) Award for Leadership in Re-
sourcing and responsible practices
gramme which aims to create a se-
sponsible Practice in Jewellery. The
in the worldwide gem and jewellery
cure and transparent route to market
award recognised her elevation to
trade. Zerouki received the accolade
for ethically sourced, artisanal and
an international level of the conver-
at “Gold: Legacy, Leadership, Lumi-
small-scale mined diamonds. The
sation about sustainability through
nescence”, a conference which was
initiative combines on-the-ground
De Beers’ Best Practice Principles
held at the Bohemian National Hall
training and engagement with min-
and provision of working solutions
in New York City.
ers about ethical standards with a
President from 2014-2016.
She joined the De Beers Group as
digital solution to support the trace-
a Supply Chain Analyst in 2005 at the
ability of the product. Each site ad-
The award is presented annually
Diamond Trading Company, where
heres to standards that are aligned
to a member of the jewellery indus-
she gained expertise in pricing rough
with the Organisation for Economic
diamonds and forecasting mine pro-
Co-operation & Development’s due
duction. She was then appointed
diligence guidelines and GemFair’s
Best Practice Principles Manager for
own rigorous ones.
to help track responsibly sourced diamonds in Sierra Leone.
40
the group in 2009, tasked with em-
Zerouki’s contribution to develop-
bedding its sustainability programme.
ing this initiative is part of her work
More recently she was appointed
as GemFair’s General Manager. She
Senior Vice-President: International
also sits on the Board of Directors of
Relations & Ethical Initiatives.
the Responsible Jewellery Council.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
LET US HELP YOU CONNECT & CONTRIBUTE TO YOUR BUSINESS Working remotely in an online world can be daunting right now. We’re here to help you navigate through this and give your business new resilience. Website design and management • Search Engine Optimisation • Facebook business pages Instagram accounts • Magazines • e-Newsletters • e-Mail send outs • LinkedIn profiles
Stay safe and healthy, and please reach out to us with any queries you may have. Chat to Jason Aarons at jason@isikhova.co.za or call 074 400 6677.
SAJN |JEWELLERY DESIGN
Roxy Burger’s
My business partner, Craig and I look at trends from around the globe, as well as things like diamond and precious gemstone trends, and design collaboratively. Linear’s aesthetic is clean-cut. Our brand is about affordable luxury.
42
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
JEWELLERY DESIGN|SAJN
Linear Luxe collection AT THE AGE OF JUST 33, BURGER boasts a broadcasting career spanning two decades. She has hosted
Local actress and TV presenter Roxy Burger tells us about Linear, her 18ct solid gold and diamond piercing collection.
shows on nearly every broadcasting
Where do you find inspiration?
network in SA, from her flagship ap-
Everywhere! Fashion, interior de-
pearance on M-Net KTV to Strictly
sign, what’s happening around the
Come Dancing, Top Billing and MTV.
globe… The inspiration is endless.
She’s interviewed some of the biggest celebrities around the globe, in-
How do you source your materials?
cluding Emilia Clarke, Rihanna, Larry
We use great-quality, ethically sour-
King, Chris Brown, Liam Neeson, Sam
ced stones which are procured by
Worthington, Jessica Alba, Maroon 5
our partner, Black Key Diamonds.
and President Thabo Mbeki. In 2017, she expanded on her love
What do you enjoy most about
of content creation by launching a
your work?
popular blog and is now intensely ex-
The fact that it’s intrinsically linked to
cited about her new luxury piercing
my love of fashion.
range, Linear. sive overseas brands available. So
Do you have a favourite piece of
Tell us about yourself.
I approached Black Key Diamonds
jewellery from your collection?
I’m a TV host and entrepreneur with a
about a collaboration and Linear
I love the Pavé Diamond Bar, but
love for fashion. I live in Johannesburg
Luxe was born.
the Diamond Flower is also a firm
with my family and am expecting a baby in October.
favourite. What makes your designs unique? Our jewellery is specifically for
If you could pick anyone to wear
How did you first become inter-
piercings – mainly ear cartilage
your jewellery, who would it be?
ested in jewellery design?
and nose piercings. It features an
Charlize Theron has some amazing
It was triggered by my not being
internally threaded, flat-back de-
ear candy – I’d love to present her
able to find good-quality gold pierc-
sign for comfort and the posts are
with some of our earrings!
ing jewellery. Upon investigation, I
16-gauge, which is the correct size
realised there were only expen-
for a piercing.
Who or what couldn't you live without?
Talk us through the process of de-
My family.
sign and creation.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
My business partner, Craig and I look
What do you believe the future
at trends from around the globe, as
holds?
well as things like diamond and pre-
Given what 2020 has shown us, I
cious gemstone trends, and design
don’t think there's much that can
collaboratively. Linear’s aesthetic is
be predicted. However, I hope for a
clean-cut. Our brand is about af-
more stable end of year, filled with
fordable luxury.
health and peace. 43
R36,00
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B I - A N N U A L
JANUA
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D I R E C T O R Y
WHAT’S IN OUR JEWELLERY STORE
FOR YOU! Take a look - we’ll put together a really smart and affordable package for your business to be heard – loudly! It’s much easier than you might think. For more information about our products or if you would like to advertise in any of our publications contact IAN (ian@isikhova.co.za or 011 883 4627)
* SA Jewellery News (SAJN) and all other publications are published by Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd | T: 011 883 4627 | F: 011 783 2677 | www.isikhova.co.za
Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative
Written by Dr PetrĂŠ Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.
The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook
After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.
ISSUE 11
ISSUE 11 AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES • The nature of minerals • The nature of gemstones • The properties of gemstones • Gem treatments and synthetics
I. THE NATURE OF MINERALS 1. WHAT ARE MINERALS? Most gemstones are minerals that were formed under special geological conditions. A basic understanding of minerals is thus required before the wonder of gemstones can be fully appreciated. Minerals are the building blocks of rocks. A few rock types for example, limestone - contain only one mineral (calcite), while granite is made up of several mineral types (quartz, feldspar, mica, etc). To qualify as a mineral, a substance must be found in nature. Diamonds that are found in kimberlitic rocks are one of the minerals which make up such rocks. Minerals are solid substances and are composed of tiny particles called atoms, that are arranged in an orderly, repeating, three-dimensional lattice. When solid materials do not have such an orderly internal array of atoms, they are referred to as amorphous or glassy. During volcanic eruptions, the outpouring lava may cool so quickly that atoms do not have time to settle into an orderly lattice to form minerals. Instead, the rapidly cooling lava may form a natural amorphous, dark-coloured glass called obsidian. Each mineral has a unique combination of chemical elements. The mineral quartz, for example, consists of two
atoms of oxygen to one of silicon. This ratio never varies and the pattern in which the silicon and oxygen atoms are stacked is always the same for quartz.
2. HOW DO MINERALS FORM? Minerals are formed by a process called crystallisation. When fluids, melts or gases cool down, they become super-saturated with certain elements, also called ions. At lower temperatures, these ions can no longer remain in solution and they are removed from the fluid, melt or gas by a spontaneous crystallisation process. Crystallisation occurs when different ions are attracted to one another and get stacked together in an orderly array to form a solid crystal nucleus. When a crystal continues to grow without interference from a neigbouring crystal, it is able to form flat surfaces called crystal faces. These crystal faces are an expression of the mineral’s internal atomic structure. For instance, the six-sided (hexagonal) shape of a quartz crystal reflects the internal hexagonal packing of silicon (Si) and oxygen (O) atoms in its crystal structure. Sometimes lava or magma (molten rock) cools down rapidly and the multitude of minerals that crystallise simultaneously grow into each other to form a solid rock consisting of mineral grains without distinct crystal faces. Large crystals with beautiful crystal faces are relatively scarce and normally form in cavities or open fissures. Such openings may develop when rocks are faulted or folded by earth-moving forces, or when lava cools down and its
AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES
Geode which formed when amethyst crystallised in a gas bubble in a cooling lava flow.
Tourmaline crystal in quartz pegmatite.
Garnet crystals in metamorphic rock.
associated gases form “bubbles” in the solid rock. The well-known “geodes” lined with amethyst crystals and the banded agates were formed in these “bubbles” long after the lava had solidified. Rocks can also be metamorphosed when their constituent minerals re-crystallise into a different set of minerals due to an increase in pressure and temperature during mountain building processes. Some garnets, rubies and sapphires formed under such conditions. The sapphire and ruby deposits in the Himalaya Mountains are examples thereof.
3. ATOMIC STRUCTURE OF MINERALS All material is made up of elements such as carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and iron (Fe). Each element has been assigned
Topaz crystal from Spitzkoppe granite, Namibia.
its own symbol which is used to describe the composition of material. Some elements have similar properties, such as boiling and melting points and tendencies to react with each other. The Periodic Table organises these elements into groups with similar characteristics We know that an atom is the smallest unit of an element which retains the chemical and physical properties of that element. Atoms interact (combine) with each other by losing, gaining or sharing electrons to form a new substance. For instance, when two hydrogen atoms combine with one oxygen atom, they form a substance called water (H2O). Some elements, like sodium, tend to lose electrons easily to form a cation, Na+. Others tend to gain electrons easily to form an anion, such as Cl-.
PERIODIC TABLE OF ELEMENTS Tendency to lose electrons from inner shells
Strong tendency for outermost electrons to be lost
Strong tendency to fill outer electron shell by electron sharing and gain, or by loss of electrons
strong tendency to gain electrons to fill outer shells
H* 1 Hydrogen Li 3 Lithium
Noble Gases: outer shells filled, no tendency to lose or gain electrons
He 2 Helium Be 4 Berylium
* Elements of major importance in the earth’s crust
Mg* 12 Na* 11 MagneSodium sium K* 19 Ca* 20 Potassium Calcium Rb 37 Sr 38 Rubidium Strontium Cs 55 Cesium
Ba 56 Barium
Fr 87 Francium
Ra 88 Radium
Sc 21 Ti 22 V 23 Cr 24 Mn 25 Scandium Titanium Vanadium Chromium Manganese Y 39 Zr 40 Nb 41 Yttrium Zirconium Niobium La 57 Hf 58 Ta 59 Lanthanum Hafnium Tantalum
Co 27 Cobalt
Ni 28 Nickel
Cu 29 Copper
Zn 30 Zinc
C 6 Carbon
N 7 Nitrogen
O* 8 Oxygen
F 9 Fluorine
Ne 10 Neon
Al* 13 Aluminum
Si* 14 Silicon
P* 15 Phosphorus
S 16 Sulfur
Cl 17 Chlorine
Arr 18 Argon
Ga 31 Gallium
Ge 32 Germanium
AS 33 Arsenic
Se 34 Br 35 Selenium Bromine
Kr 36 Krypton
Mo 42 Tc 43 Ru 44 Rh 45 Pd 46 Ag 47 Cd 48 MolybdeTechnetium Ruthenium Rhodium Palladium Silver Cadmium num
In 49 Indium
Sn
Sb 51 Antimony
Te 52 I 53 Tellurium Iodine
Xe 54 Xenon
W 60 Tungsten
Re 75 Rhenium
Tl 81 Thalium
Pb 82 Bi 83 Lead Bismuth
Po 84 At 85 Polonium Astatine
Rn 86 Radon
Mg 12
atomic number
Magnesium
element name
Ac 89 Actinium chemical symbol
Fe* 26 Iron
B 5 Boron
Os 76 Osmium
Ir 77 Iridium
Pt 78 Platinum
Au 79 Gold
Hg 80 Mercury
Tin
50
ISSUE 11
DIAGRAMMATIC SKETCH OF VARIOUS GEOLOGICAL ENVIRONMENTS IN WHICH GEMSTONES ARE FORMED
13 12
10
3
3
11
6
5
2
7
4
8 1
9
1. Contact metamorphism - emeralds form by reaction of granitic fluids with chromium-rich rocks. Gems such as iolites, spinel and chrysoberyl can also form in this contact zone. 2. Pegmatites - late-stage fluids from a granitic magma form pegmatites in which quartz, feldspar, topaz, tourmaline, chrysoberyl, moonstone, spodumene and aquamarine crystallise. 3. Lava flows - geodes form when gas cavities in the lava are filled by silica-rich fluids from which crystals of amethyst, citrine and/or agate crystallise. Opal and peridot also crystallise in lavas. 4. Metamorphic rocks - garnet, ruby, sapphire and spinel form by intense alteration of alumina-rich rocks that were heated and folded when continents collide. 5. Hydrothermal deposits - quartz, gold, lapis lazuli and grossular garnet form when hot fluids react with shales and limestones. 6. Replacement veins - opal, turquoise, tanzanite. 7. Basaltic rocks and ultramafic rocks - peridot, platinum. 8. Subduction zones - jadeite forms under intense pressure and temperatures where a crustal plate is forced to extreme depths during collision with another plate. 9. Earth’s mantle - at depths exceeding 150 km diamond and pyrope garnet crystallised billions of years ago and were transported much later by kimberlitic volcanoes to the earth’s surface. 10. Alluvial (placer) deposits - rivers transport gold, diamonds and most other gems from their primary occurrence and drop such precious loads when the rivers start slowing down. 11. Sediments - opal forms by evaporation of silica-rich groundwater. 12. Marine diamond deposits - ocean currents and wave action concentrate gold and diamonds in beach gravels. 13. Kimberlitic volcano - bringing diamonds from the mantle to the earth’s surface.
This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by
AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES
When the Na+ combines with chlorine gas Cl-, they form a compound called sodium chloride (NaCl), also known as table salt or the mineral halide.
ii)
Covalent bonds These are formed between atoms that do not easily gain or lose an electron. These atoms are held together by sharing electrons. Covalent bonds are normally stronger than ionic bonds. Carbon atoms in a diamond crystal are held together by strong covalent bonds, thus the hardness of diamond.
Sodium (Na) has one electron in its Chlorine (C1) has seven electrons outer shell which it loses easily to in its outer shell which has space become a positively charged sodium for one more electron. It attracts ion (Na+). an electron to become a negatively charged chlorine ion (C1-).
Diamond is composed of the element carbon. These atoms are held together by covalent bonds which form when each carbon atom shares four
(Na+) + (C1-) = NaC1
Formation of a chemical compound (NaC1) due to electrical attraction between Na+ and C1- ions.
The atoms in a mineral are held together by chemical bonds. These bonds result from the electrical forces of attraction between the electrons and protons of the atoms. These bonds can either be strong, making a mineral hard to break, or weak resulting in a softer substance. Three types of chemical bonds are found in most minerals, namely: i)
Ionic bonds These are formed by electrical attraction between ions of opposite charge, eg, Na+ and Cl- to form NaCl, as described above.
electrons from its outer shell with four neighbouring atoms.
iii)
Metallic bonds These are found in a small number of minerals such as metal copper and silver. Atoms of metallic elements lose electrons easily. These electrons are highly mobile and are shared by many ions. Metallic bonds are usually weak, allowing atoms to be separated easily. This accounts for the softness of most metals.
4. ROCK-FORMING MINERALS Of the many thousands of known minerals, only about 30 are normally found in rocks. Because 99% of the earth’s crust is made up of only nine elements, the number of rock-forming minerals is limited to those that are readily formed by these nine elements. The most ubiquitous rock-forming minerals are quar tz, feldspar, calcite, nepheline, sodalite, mica, pyroxene, amphibole and olivine. Minerals such as zircon, sphene, apatite, corundum, garnet and zeolite occur in limited quantities in rocks.
Chloride
Sodium
5. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF MINERALS Atomic structure of NaC1.
The chemical composition of minerals - as well as gemstones - determines their optical, physical and other properties.
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ISSUE 11
Because these properties are used in the identification of gemstones, the jeweller needs a basic understanding of mineral chemistry. To describe the chemical composition of a mineral or gem, we use a “formula” made up by the symbols of its atoms and their relative quantities. For example, the chemical formula for quartz is SiO2 which means that it is made up of silicon and oxygen and that for every one silicon atom, there are two oxygen atoms in the structure. Diamond has the simplest chemical formula, C, because it consists only of carbon atoms. Sapphire and ruby are special types of the mineral corundum which are made up by aluminum (Al) and oxygen (O) and its chemical formula is Al2O3. Some gemstones consist of many different elements and have complex formulae - for example, tourmaline’s formula is XY3Al6(BO3)3(Si6O18)(OH)4 where X is usually Na or Ca and Y = Fe+2, Mg, Li, Al. Every mineral or gem contains minute traces of “foreign” elements, ie, elements that do not form part of its normal chemical formula. These so-called “trace elements” normally replace one of the major elements in the crystal structure and are often responsible for the colour of the mineral. For instance, when corundum has virtually no trace elements, it could be a colourless sapphire. When trace amounts of iron or titanium replace some aluminum atoms in a corundum crystal, then the colour of the corundum is blue and we call it sapphire. When some chromium takes the place of aluminum atoms, the corundum is red and is called ruby.
6. INTERNAL STRUCTURE OF MINERALS Ideally, crystalline substances are built up of units identical in shape, size and chemical composition. These units are made up of atoms that are normally located on the corners or inside the unit. There exist only 14 different types of these units, called unit cells. In a specific mineral, a specific type of unit cell is repeated in three-dimensional space to form a crystal lattice. These unit cells are mainly used to describe the internal symmetry of a mineral. The shape of a mineral’s unit cell controls the symmetry of the crystal lattice and thus the overall symmetry of the mineral. However, the way in which the unit cells are stacked can result in different crystal forms for the same mineral. Diamond crystals provide a good example of this. They are built up of densely packed cubic unit cells and their outer form can either be a cube, an octahedron, a dodecahedron or a combination of these forms.
In graphite - which also consists of pure carbon - the atoms are stacked in an open and layered hexagonal unit cell. The “openness” of the structure and the weakness of some bonds are responsible for the softness of graphite.
Isometric (cubic) unit cells
Hexagonal unit cell
Trigonal unit cell
Tetragonal unit cells
Orthorombic unit cells
Monoclinic unit cells
Triclinic unit cell
Fourteen different unit cells. These are the simplest units that can be repeated to form a three-dimensional crystal structure.
Different crystal forms are created by a different stacking of the same cubic unit cell. The three forms on the left are a perfect cube and two malformed cubes. On the right are an octahedron (left) and a dodecahedron (right).
In the graphite structure (left), carbon atoms are arranged in hexagons which are stacked above one another and held together by weak bonds (dashed lines). In the diamond structure (right), carbon atoms are arranged in a three-dimensional tetrahedral network and are held together by strong covalent bonds.
THE SILICATE MINERALS The most abundant minerals in the ear th’s crust are silicates. These minerals are composed of a framework of silicon
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AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONES
and oxygen atoms. These two atoms combine to form SiO4 tetraeders which form the basic building blocks of silicate minerals. These “building blocks” should not be confused with the 14 unit cells described earlier. For instance, the eight corner positions of a unit cell could be occupied by eight SiO4 tetraeders. The SiO4 tetraeder can occur either as isolated units which are held together by other atoms such as Fe+2, Mg+2, etc, or they are linked together in rings, chains or sheets. (see diagram on the next page). These Si-O rings, chains or sheets are also held together by a variety of ions such as Fe+2, Mg+2, OH-, etc.
THE SEVEN CRYSTAL SYSTEMS Every mineral (and gemstone) belongs to one of seven crystal systems. These are the cubic (also called isometric), tetragonal, orthorhombic, trigonal, hexagonal, monoclinic and triclinic systems. By studying the external crystal faces of a mineral, one can often identify its crystal system which will help in its identification. For example, diamond and garnet are typical equi-dimensional crystals which indicate a cubic
oxygen
crystal system.
silicon
Under the microscope, features such as a hexagonal growth pattern or colour banding indicate the crystallographic system and assist in the mineral’s
Structure of the silicon-oxygen tetraeder. In the centre is one Si +4 ion, surrounded by four oxygen ions, each carrying a negative charge of 4. After bonding, the resultant silicate ion (SiO4) has a negative charge of 4 (4+ minus 8- = 4-).
identification. Needle-like inclusions that intersect at 120 degrees also indicate a hexagonal or trigonal crystal system.
These Si-O tetraeders can also form a three-dimensional framework, as is the case with the mineral quar tz. Often an Al +3 ion takes the place of an Si+4 ion, causing a negative charge imbalance which is neutralised by the incorporation of positively charged ions such as Fe+2 , Mg+2, etc. The crystal structure of a mineral, ie, whether its Si-O tetraeders are arranged in strings, sheets or a 3-D framework, determines many of its physical and optical properties. For example, a mineral will break or cleave easily in a direction where atoms are spaced far apart and the bonds holding them together are weak. A mineral may thus have a different hardness in different directions.
CUBIC
TETRAGONAL
diamond
zircon
HEXAGONAL
ORTHORHOMBIC peridot
TRIGONAL
emerald
ruby
aquamarine
sapphire
tourmaline
quartz
MONOCLINIC
TRICLINIC
Octahedral cleavage - diamond
Prismatic cleavage - pyroxene Cleavage along crystallographic directions determines the direction in which a mineral can be split.
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orthoclase
turquoise
kunzite
labradorite
jadeite
ISSUE 11
Diamond is a good example. Because it is softer in certain directions than in others, the diamond polisher must be able to identify the soft direction because he can only polish parallel to this direction. For those working with gems, it is important to understand the
how the internal structure of a gem influences
crystal forms, symmetry, hardness, cleavage, etc, as these properties are useful in its identification. The internal structure also influences the way light travels through the gem and thus determines its optical properties. Analysing these properties is one of the main methods of gem identification.
SiO tetraeders are linked in different ways in to form a 3-D crystal structure a silicate mineral structure to produce different for example, quartz and feldspar crystal forms. tetraeders extend in all directions
4
Si-O4 tetraeders stacked as sheets isolated, eg peridot ring, eg iolite single chain, eg pyroxene double chain, eg amphibole eg mica and clay minerals
MONTHLY EDUCATIONAL INSERT 2020 In issue 12 (SA Jewellery News September edition): The nature of gemstones Precious versus semi-precious Species and varieties Did you know? Also in issue 12: Colour and colour phenomena How to describe the colour of gemstones The clarity of gemstones The cut of gemstones
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PERSONALITY|SAJN
Getting to know… the Diamond Council’s
Joyce Bennett SA because our parents were ageing
What’s your favourite recreation?
and needed us near them.
Dining at my favourite restaurant,
I then worked in the mining industry until the gold price dropped
followed by a visit to the theatre or cinema.
drastically and I was retrenched. Who’s your biggest inspiration? How long have you been in-
Our late former President Nelson
volved in the diamond industry?
Mandela always inspired me with
I started working at the Diamond
his humility and kindness.
Secretariat in 1998. You were recently diagnosed
Bennett is no stranger to the industry, having been at the Diamond Council of South
How did you enter it?
with COVID-19. Can you share
I was employed by Alan Wedcliffe,
the experience with us?
who was running the Secretariat.
On 19 June, I started losing my voice.
He eventually emigrated to Israel.
I contacted my doctor, who couldn’t
The Secretariat shared offices with
see me physically and advised me to
the Jewellery Council of SA for a
go for a COVID-19 test. The result
number of years at that time.
was positive and my doctor told me to self-isolate for 14 days and dose
What do you love most about the industry?
myself with any flu medication. I found the kindness of my
Africa for 22 years. She tells
Definitely the people who work in
colleagues and family really helpful.
us what she loves most about
it. They’re truly passionate about
I also received a phone call each
what they manufacture and sell.
day from the Department of Health
the industry, her personal
asking how I felt. There’s nothing
philosophy and her journey
How has the industry changed
shameful about contracting the
to recovery after being
since 1998?
virus and one really needs support.
diagnosed with COVID-19.
Over the 22 years that I’ve been in
I was fortunate enough not to have
the industry – particularly the past
respiratory problems, but sometimes
Where did you grow up and go
five ones – I’ve seen major changes
I wondered whether I’d ever recover.
to school?
in it. The main one is probably the
I completely lost my appetite. After
I grew up in Johannesburg and
shrinking of the manufacturing side
about 10 days, I woke up one morning
attended Athlone Girls’ High School.
of the industry.
feeling well again. It was a real relief!
In the late 1970s/early ’80s my
On the 14th day of my self-isolation,
husband and I spent seven years in
What is your personal philosophy?
I went for another test – which was
London, where we were involved in
“Do your best at all times. You can’t
negative – and was pronounced fully
the fashion industry. We returned to
do more than that.”
recovered from the virus.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
53
SAJN |THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
Keeping it together: emotions and processes Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead.
the situation. No doubt we have all
deadly pandemics like the current
experienced disruptors and “tipping-
one and all the other shocks (natural
point changes”, as author Malcolm
or otherwise) that flesh is heir to.
Gladwell puts it, at one time or an-
I had a chat recently with a fam-
other in our lives. Yet it is crucial –
ily member who observed that
especially now – to control our emo-
when people panic, they seem to
tional responses and keep following
completely abandon any regard for
the processes which enable business
WE
standard business processes. Have
to continue.
have a problem.”
you noticed anything similar these
Sounds good, but how do you
It’s
world-re-
recent months in your own business?
manage 1 400 emotional responses
quote,
I believe it is caused by the old tru-
so that they work for you?
from
ism: “Emotion hijacks logic.” Specifi-
When we are faced with danger,
Jack Swigert, one
cally, it is unexpected, unmanaged
our managed response – accord-
of the astronauts on Apollo 13. He
and unprocessed emotion which
ing to Leaf – should be to embrace
informed the NASA Mission Con-
translates logic into panic, a state
it (acknowledge it), articulate it and
trol Centre that their spacecraft had
of incoherent fear which completely
constructively process it by thinking
been crippled by an explosion just
overrides rational thinking, appropri-
through the options we have (and
three days into their mission to land
ate behaviour and control.
their consequences), choosing the
“HOUSTON, a
nowned originating
54
disasters at sea, celebrity divorces,
on the moon. Those words (which
According to cognitive neuro-
best one and then moving forward.
were actually “OK, Houston, we’ve
scientist Dr Caroline Leaf, there are
This way, we get our responses to
had a problem here”) were uttered
about 1 400 neurophysiological
help us. Even though we may still
50 years ago – in April 1970 – but
responses which occur in the hu-
feel panicky, we begin to experience
became a by-word after the movie
man body as a result of unexpected
a growing sense of control and, with
of the ill-fated mission was released
news. These responses are designed
it, a return of order as our immune
21 years ago. Today it has come to
to help us, provided we manage and
systems work for us. This was what
mean any event which has gone cat-
direct them. If the news is perceived
played out during the Apollo 13 crisis.
astrophically wrong, from personal
negatively and we fail to manage our
The astronauts (who, let us not for-
mishaps to organisational blunders,
responses, they end up causing us
get, are always selected for missions
scandals, massive business collapses,
to panic and significantly aggravate
not only because of their physical fit-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
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SAJN |JEWELLERY DESIGN
Astrologer and empowerment coach Natalia Benson joins forces with Krystle Knight Jewellery for their first mystical collaboration of meaningful adornments, She Is Cosmic. FUSING ESOTERIC WISDOM OF THE ages with practical modern tools, Benson – a respected women’s empowerment coach, style influencer and astrologer – enables women to live a more centred and prosperous life. Now she returns to her design roots in a collaboration with Krystle Knight, founder/designer of Krystle Knight Jewellery (KKJ). The She Is Cosmic collection includes three concepts: Zodiac, Lakshmi and Mix and Match. “The first business I ever started and ran for nearly a decade was a jewellery line,” says Benson, who’s been dubbed the Fashionable Mystic. “I’ve always loved incorporating spiritual principles and energies into my pieces.” The line was sold at Fred Segal and had fans like supermodel Tyra Banks, style blogger Honey and Silk’s Stephanie Liu and fashion/ beauty creator Marta Pozzan.
A little piece of m Founded in 2013, KKJ is based in Australia’s stylish boho enclave, Byron
56
with the queen of astrology herself – Natalia,” says Knight.
Bay. Featuring ethically sourced piec-
The new collaboration unveils
es that channel the positive energy of
handcrafted Zodiac necklaces with
master healing crystals, the brand re-
custom-designed artwork. Each Zo-
veals beauty on levels both seen and
diac piece features a hammered tex-
unseen. “Krystle’s very soulful and in-
ture and tiny white sapphires, which
credibly talented,” says Benson.
hold strength and wisdom for the
“I’ve always wanted to create
wearer. They are accompanied by
a Zodiac collection for KKJ and it
cards with Zodiac traits personally
made complete sense to collaborate
penned by Benson for this project.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
JEWELLERY DESIGNS|SAJN or clothing, can cultivate lifelong connections. “The She Is Cosmic collection is also a loving reminder of what the universe provides to you unceasingly. This is expressed via two stunning necklaces depicting the magic of
Both designs fea-
Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of all
ture citrine drop crys-
that’s abundant and prosperous.”
tals at the back of their chains, which
Benson often uses Lakshmi in
make them even more magical.
empowerment workshops with her
Continuing the Lakshmi theme,
clients, making this collection even
the final style in the She Is Cosmic
more powerful. Knight, for her
collection builds on a eclectic look
part, adds: “To me, Lakshmi is the
that has been popular since the
embodiment of happiness, so having
beginning of KKJ. Customers can mix
her close by all the time is something
and match to create their own version
our audience will really appreciate.”
of earrings, adding citrine crystals and layering on a little Lakshmi charm. “Keep these pieces close by at all times,” advises Knight. With this collection, KKJ for the first time offers sterling silver and gold vermeil styles in yellow gold and rose gold. Choosing materials for jewellery is important from an astrological viewpoint, notes Benson. “Everything embodies its own unique frequency, so from the crystals – which have high frequency – to the metals, which vibrate with a lower,
magic
earthy kind of energy, there’s a reBenson has also
ally beautiful balance and synergy
created a medita-
between the materials.”
tion for use with
the jewellery, found on the website
About Natalia Benson
with the jewellery.
By fusing the spiritual world with
“I'm inspired by the mysteries and
practical tools for empowerment,
the beauty of the cosmos, as well as
Benson has helped more than
loving connections between human
2 000 private clients make meaning-
beings,” she says. “When women
ful choices and changes in their lives,
wear these pieces, I hope they feel
and guides over 42 000 followers on
empowered and represented by their
Instagram. She works in corporate
Zodiac sign. I find that conversations
wellness with major institutions and
which begin with astrology, and
also on a personal level via private
even gorgeous pieces of jewellery
coaching, panels and lectures.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
57
SAJN |LITTLE GEMS
Forever and always, our ‘Little Gem’ ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020
The darker side of gemstones Little Gems is one of SAJN’s most popular pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will continue to weave its magic with flair and the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery and watches. BLACK
HAS
BEEN
A
STAPLE
ignite with a velvety intensity. It
coast of Yorkshire in England. It is
fashion colour for many years.
is transformed into this fossilised
known as Whitby jet, named for
Personally, I tend to agree with
material by chemical reaction. It is
the town of Whitby, which was a
England’s Queen Elizabeth II that
warm and smooth to the touch and
favourite seaside holiday destination
jewel colours make one more visible
although found in many countries
among early Victorians. Jet is found
and are more flattering. However, in
worldwide, the finest quality has
in seams, usually above sea level,
small doses or for accessories, black
always come from the north-east
and its light weight made it popular
is an ideal shade – and in jewellery,
for large, eye-catching pieces of
it can provide an effective contrast.
jewellery. It became coveted by
Jet is not a true gemstone, as it is
numerous high-profile personalities,
not a mineral; it is of such an intense
but its most important patron was
black that it gave rise to the expres-
the widowed Queen Victoria, who –
sion “as black as jet.” It is actually
apart from jet – also wore colourless
fossilised wood and was traditionally
diamonds and black pearls.
used in mourning jewellery, particu-
Another monarch who favoured
larly during the reign of Queen Vic-
black pearls was Mary Queen of
toria. So distraught was the monarch
Scots, who had six strands of them
after the death of her beloved hus-
(known
band Prince Albert that she instruct-
pearls”) presented to her by
ed her entire court to wear mourn-
her husband. They had previ-
ing attire for the next three years,
ously belonged to Catherine di
with only jet jewellery being permit-
Medici and Mary is seen wear-
ted for the first 12 months of that
ing a single strand of them in the
period. She herself, however, wore
famous portrait of her by an un-
mourning clothes for the rest of her
known artist, which also hangs in
life (40 years).
the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Jet is a hard, coal-like variety of
58
as
the
“Hanoverian
Black cultured pearls are some-
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
LITTLE GEMS|SAJN what rare and emanate from the
which is usually cut as a cabochon
black-lipped oyster, Pinctada marga-
or into beads. However, it also has
ritifera. They are rarely as black as jet,
a long history of use for hardstone
but show iridescent colours which
carvings and sculptures in the Art
originate from the nacre layers that
Deco period and is used in slabs
overlap and break up light falling on
as plinths – in fact, that was
the surface. They are shades of
exactly what Cartier used as a
green, purple, aubergine, blue,
platform for his Mystery Clocks of
grey, silver and peacock, or a mixture of shades, rather like a peacock’s feathers. Tahitian
pearls
the mid-1920s. Effective when used in combination with diamonds for
are
rings, earrings and brooches,
often referred to as black
onyx is found in various re-
pearls. These are farmed
gions around the world. It is
in the warm waters of French
particularly suitable for creating
Polynesia around Tahiti. It was
cameo-engraved gems, where the
a Frenchman responsible for the
bands make the image contrast with
have an extremely high amount of
marine resources in the area who
the background.
inclusions. Black diamonds contain
undertook in-depth research of
Black diamonds recently enjoyed
pearl cultivation in the mid-1960s
a surge in popularity and are
and is considered the father of black
reportedly among the most popular
pearl farming in the area’s warm
coloured
lagoons. The darker variety of pearls
conventional
diamonds
so many clusters of graphite that they appear to be dark. Although black diamonds have
for
non-
an inability to disperse light the
engagement
rings.
way white diamonds do, they have
is the most desirable and, according
There are several types of these,
a beautiful lustre and shimmering
to legend, symbolises love.
some natural and others treated.
scintillation.
Onyx is a rock, a marble-like
The latter are known as carbonados
Most people think of a sapphire
material used in modern jewellery
and the treatments usually include
as being the deepest blue, but this
which has been used since the time
radiation and heat.
gem actually comes in other colours,
of the Second Dynasty in Egypt. It
Natural black diamonds are an
including black. The colour change
is a form of chalcedony, a banded
impure form of crystalline diamond,
is due to trace elements within the
material used to make bowls and
consisting of diamond, graphite
mineral. Black sapphire is extremely
other pottery items. It was known
and amorphous carbon. Natural
dark and appears to absorb most of
to the ancient Greeks and Romans.
coloured diamonds get their colour
the light that enters it. It is cheaper
Although it does come in other
from the impurities attached to them
than most other black gemstones,
colours, its best-known variety is
during their formation process and
making it an affordable alternative
the black version used in jewellery,
are similar to white stones, which
to onyx and diamonds.
Mary Queen of Scots had six strands of black pearls (known as the 'Hanoverian pearls') presented to her by her husband. They had previously belonged to Catherine di Medici and she is seen wearing a single strand of them in the portrait of her which hangs in the Victoria and Albert Museum. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – AUGUST 2020
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M. SHARIZI D C W 071 499 9072/011 334 7245
L.H. VAN EEDEN JUWELIER 082 542 9105/042 295 2157
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JOZI DIAMONDS 083 979 0515
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JS GEMS (PTY) LTD 011 334 7657
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LESDENE JEWELLERS - CAPE GATE BRANCH 021 981 2247
MARINE GOLD CC 021 424 0077
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MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO 041 368 4582/3
K2 DESIGN STUDIO 079 042 9756/031 940 1274
LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC 021 887 1655
MARIOS JEWELLERS CC 021 551 8636/7
KAHUNA DIAMONDS 082 555 1184/011 334 4808
LILY DESIGN STUDIO 011 694 5061
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LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR 015 293 0214
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LINDE COLLECTION 021 422 0041
MARKET JEWELLERS - CANAL WALK 082 961 1108/021 552 5929
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LINEA D’ORO JEWELLERS 011 615 0182/435 8955
MARKET JEWELLERS HEAD OFFICE 082 961 1108/021 424 9008
KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO 082 451 9429
LIONEL NOACH DIAMONDS 011 484 2520
MAROUN DIAMONDS 011 334 5752
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K
ORIENT JEWELLERS 011 836 0961/2
MAYURIS JEWELLERS - CHATSWORTH CENTRE 031 403 4225
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MURDOCKS 021 419 0302
OSMONDS 082 779 9922/021 559 8277
MY CHERI DIAMONDS 011 334 8925/6
OUTCLASS CRYSTALLIZED GEMS 053 831 1570
MDC WHOLESALERS 086 110 6186 MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS 082 689 0630 MEGAGEMS (PTY) LTD 011 028 3950 MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN 082 574 6043 MERVIS BROTHERS JEWELLERS 011 616 7504 METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD CENTURION 012 000 4440 METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD - CPT 021 510 0770 METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD DURBAN 083 600 2210 METAL IMAGE 021 447 6600 MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS 011 792 5292
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N M DIAMONDS CC 011 334 6038
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PANDA DIAMONDS 011 011 9100
NARANDAS JEWELLERS - UMHLANGA 031 584 6804 NARDIAM DIAMONDS 072 874 9567/011 334 5773 NATHAN DANIEL 082 450 2276 NATURAL PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD 031 569 3010/1/2
MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY 083 601 8535/021 913 3944
NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN 012 329 9600
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NEXCLO NO 77 T/A GABRIOLLI GIOIELLI 083 326 2618/021 461 6543
MIKE BERGMAN DIAMONDS 083 229 2624/011 622 7586
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MILDIAM TRADING CC 011 334 2275
NIKITA GEMS 076 904 5704
MILLENNIUM DIAMONDS 011 334 8612/3/334 4361
NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD 083 384 7792
MILLER GOLD HOUSE (PTY) LTD 011 883 9972 MINTEK JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING TRAINING AND INCUBATION 011 709 4367 MIRKO JEWELLERY 082 494 6636/021 886 8296 MIZANE JEWELLERY 083 419 5819/011 485 3784 MOGAKWE DIAMONDS CC 011 334 6513
P
NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN 079 891 7240 NOBLE DIAMONDS 011 334 1075 NOMAD JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES 082 770 9788 NORKEE DIAMONDS CC 083 450 3049/083 450 9280/011 334 9840 NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO 083 450 7486/012 332 5850
PARADIME 084 702 1555/011 334 2440 PATRICIA G (PTY) LTD 021 851 9459 PAUL GALLIAS 073 194 2415 PAUL MILLER DIAMONDS 011 334 6082/3 PAYS DES REVES LIFESTYLE 011 880 9191 PEARL AND DIAMONDS STUDIO 083 458 7909/011 678 0595/6 PENCHANT DESIGN 021 876 3094 PETER GILDER JEWELLERY 021 794 2116 PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN 021 789 0312 PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS 072 739 6800 PHILIP WULFSOHN JEWELLERY 082 466 0668/021 421 2628 PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS 083 216 2623/021 423 2771 PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS 082 492 5842/012 549 4966 PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY 083 396 6178 PICOT & MOSS 011 669 0500
MOLEFI LETSIKI DIAMONDS 082 484 9721/011 050 8520
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PIERO G MANUFACTURING T/A PICO JEWELLERS 011 483 3442
MR. KRUGER (PTY) LTD - DURBANVILLE 021 023 0605
NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE 082 325 8511/021 883 3856
PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC 031 301 3963
MR. KRUGER (PTY) LTD - MONTANA 012 548 4424
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PLATANDIA JEWELLERY COLLECTION CC 021 461 5000
MR. KRUGER (PTY) LTD - MORELETA PARK 012 998 5694
O
PLATINUM ARCH INVESTMENTS 021 883 2622
MR. KRUGER (PTY) LTD - RONDEBOSCH 021 023 0811
OLGA JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO 021 419 8016
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MR. KRUGER (PTY) LTD - SOMERSET WEST 021 023 0576
ORIANA DIAMOND (PTY) LTD 011 334 7154
PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC 073 166 4375/011 702 1462/1891
J U LY- D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0
MR. KRUGER (PTY) LTD - TYGERVALLEY 021 023 0747
D I R E C T O R Y
MAXOTIC CREATIONS 011 854 9832
B I - A N N U A L
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J U LY- D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0
J U LY- D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0
D I R E C T O R Y
D I R E C T O R Y
B I - A N N U A L
B I - A N N U A L
58
MEMBERS A-Z POMANO DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD 072 453 0425
RANDTIP 78 CC 053 832 8338
RSA DIAMOND CORPORATION 083 232 0139/086 110 6186
PONAHALO DIAMONDS 076 686 8018/011 928 1970
RAND REFINERY LIMITED 011 418 9000
RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART 082 538 8816/021 447 2492
POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS 1986 CC 011 486 1602/3
RAND VAAL DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD 011 334 6513
RUSCHIN DIAMONDS 011 484 2039
RANDBURG COIN (PTY) LTD 011 789 2260
RUZOW DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS CC 011 334 6243
POWELL’S JEWELLERS 031 303 8296 PRECIOUS SILVER AND STONE 082 600 8704/011 719 2800 PRECISION DCW 011 483 2106 PRECISION SETTERS 011 484 7803/4 PREMJIS JEWELLERS GATEWAY SHOPPING CENTRE 031 566 3030 PREMJIS JEWELLERS THE PAVILLION SHOPPING CENTRE 031 265 0807
RANDEREE JEWELLERS 031 202 4701 RAPID 3D JV (PTY) LTD 0861 000 185 RARE EARTH CREATIONS 011 326 1727 RASIFIWA (PTY) LTD 021 422 1350 RAYNOR JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO 021 702 4474/5 R D’AMATO JEWELLERS 044 873 3130
PRETTY FOUND THINGS 083 651 9042
REAL DIAMOND CREATIONS CC 011 334 7326
PREVIDA & CO 083 393 8393/011 701 5074
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PRO GEM SERVICES (PTY) LTD 031 101 3818
REGAL JEWELLERS 011 838 4726
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REZ DIAMONDS 011 334 3400
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PROTEA JEWELLERS 021 981 4212
RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS 041 374 2101
PVS PROJET PRINTING (PTY) LTD 084 812 2857
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Q QUICKSET JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD 031 468 9236 Q V TRADING 011 334 3737
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ROK ORIGINALS 072 203 3288 ROLEX WATCH COMPANY (SOUTH AFRICA) (PTY) LTD 082 900 3881/011 784 9230 ROMA JEWELLERS 011 783 1265 ROMAIN DIAMONDS 021 418 0341 ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD 011 794 1666 ROMANELLI DIAMONDS 082 979 6106/010 020 6810 RONALD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN 083 262 7401/031 701 5154 ROSDAVE DIAMONDS CC 082 551 2103/011 484 3213 ROSE CUT DIAMOND MERCHANTS 011 484 1565 ROUGH DIAMOND DEALERS ASSOCIATION OF SA 011 334 1930
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TIP TOP JEWELLERS 044 873 3048
SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD 011 450 3192
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TIRSA DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD 083 377 0183
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SUNDELSON BROTHERS 083 375 8508/011 642 0093
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T
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TAMAR DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD 011 334 3307
SIVANA DIAMONDS CC 011 025 2552
TANUR COLLECTION 021 418 5524
TRANS ATLANTIC GEM SALES 021 418 1587 TREASURE DIAMONDS 021 421 4972 TREGER BRANDS (PTY) LTD 086 122 0861 TRIMALCHIO 082 922 2373/012 346 6874 TRISLO (PTY) LTD 012 259 0100
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SM WATCH WHOLESALE (PTY) LTD 012 323 1774
TEMKIN DIAMONDS 011 334 4338
SMITH JEWELLERY 071 313 8649
THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY
SOMETHING SPECIAL IN JEWELLERY 082 454 7015/011 544 1500 SOOLIMAN JEWELLERS 011 496 1521 SOUTH AFRICAN DIAMOND MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION 011 334 1930 SOUTH AFRICAN DIAMOND SOURCE (PTY) LTD 011 484 7349/4 SOUTHERN CROSS DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD 011 334 8867 SPARK CREATIONS LIMITED 011 326 8164 SPARKLE DIAMEX 011 334 6665 SQUISITO GIOIELLE 079 885 9936/011 834 4720 STAR GEMS (PTY) LTD 074 067 6210/011 334 6873 STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY 083 775 9995 STATUS JEWELLERS 011 838 8473 STEFAN’S JEWELLERY AND GEMS 021 424 5802 STEINER SCHWARTZ 033 342 8595
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TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY 083 457 1585/012 382 6007
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VEGA ZA (PTY) LTD +134 786 59362
STUDIO LOUBSER 082 852 3991/011 782 4051
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J U LY- D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0
SUGARBUSH CREATIONS 015 293 2358
D I R E C T O R Y
SIENCA CC 011 768 2565
B I - A N N U A L
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J U LY- D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0
J U LY- D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0
D I R E C T O R Y
D I R E C T O R Y
B I - A N N U A L
B I - A N N U A L
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MEMBERS A-Z VERA BUHMANN 083 255 4888
VK JEWELLERY 082 789 4498
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VON EDEN (PTY) LTD 076 140 4909
VERMAAK DIAMONDS 011 484 3644
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VERNON WHITE JEWELLERS 082 659 1505/031 303 8278 VERONICA ANDERSON JEWELLERY 082 881 0359/011 268 2021 VERSITRADE 082 579 2058 VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS 084 580 1555/011 615 4758 VIENNA JEWELLERS 012 460 7231 VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS 031 564 2948 VILJOEN JEWELLERS CC 023 347 0682 VITRI’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS 076 958 1845/015 291 3143 VJS JEWELLERS - CAMPS BAY CAPE TOWN 021 910 7300 VJS JEWELLERS - PRODUCTION 063 353 4243 VJS JEWELLERS - WELKOM 051 813 8651
W WAINWRIGHT FINE JEWELLERS 074 369 4294 WATCHES UNLIMITED 031 202 9450 WATT’S JEWELLERS 056 212 3341 WESSELTON DIAMONDS 011 334 7073 WESTJEWEL (PTY) LTD 021 424 3474 WHITE DIAMOND JEWELLERS 083 288 9333/035 789 5550 WINO JUWELIERS BK 022 713 4348 WOLF BROTHERS JEWELLERS - CANAL WALK 021 555 4418 WOLF BROTHERS JEWELLERS CAVENDISH SQUARE 021 674 1255
WOLF BROTHERS JEWELLERS CLEARWATER MALL 082 654 3929/011 675 6635 WOLF BROTHERS JEWELLERS MALL OF AFRICA 011 517 2417 WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO 011 318 1340
X XAFARI (PTY) LTD T/A WEBUYGOLD 0800 800 800
Y YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY 074 136 3633
Z ZADIKOV GEMS 082 824 5726/011 484 3246 ZIRK LOMBARD DIAMONDS CC 053 861 2145 ZULU MIEN 082 334 4426 ZUREL BROS 011 334 1171 ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD 015 293 2306/58
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