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• International fair calendar: Make a date for 2020 • Trading safely online • How continuous improvement can transform your business • The colours of red
Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Publisher: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za
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8. NEWS • Shimansky unveils iconic Table Mountain ring
Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com
• Alrosa identifies potential new diamond resources
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• WDC President urges governments to act on important KP reforms to support the future of the process
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• Lab warns of colour instability in CVD
27. BRAND MANAGEMENT
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• Chopard’s Happy Sport Oval
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28. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metalbox building, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, South Africa. Postal: PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za
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Happy New Year and happy New Decade!
29. JEWELLERY DESIGN 10. INTERNATIONAL FAIR CALENDAR
Design@50 Enterprise Development Programme to be launched in 2020
Make a date for 2020
11. DIAMONDS What we can expect in 2020
24. ONLINE TRADING Trading safely online
31. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT From idea to execution: how continuous improvement can transform your business
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The colours of red
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Villa Gold is a leading South African precious metal boutique based in Sandton, Johannesburg.
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The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
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Its vision is to be the most competitive global leader in the gold and precious metals industry by trading in a sustainable manner, enabling new and existing clientele to obtain its products at a good rate. Villa Gold offers a wide range of services to suit its clients’ needs, focusing on the famous Kruger Rand and its very own Mahr coin. For more
• International fair calendar: Make a date for 2020
information, contact Villa Gold on tel: (011) 888-8888/226, visit: www.villa-gold.com
• Trading safely online • How continuous improvement can transform your business • The colours of red
or e-mail: faaiza@villa-gold.com/haseena@villa-gold.com
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
GIA certified Polished & Rough diamond merchants Calibrated smalls in various shapes & sizes Certified loose diamonds & tanzanite Investment stones Jewellery manufacturers Designer Jewellery
Professional Guarenteed Quality
CONTACT KEAGAN GREEN Tel: +27 11 268 6544 | Mobile: +27 82 926 5415 Email: keagan@afisia.co.za | Website: www.afisia.com / www.afisia.co.za
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too many nights in front of my computer until long after 10pm. But with a new baby on the way, I’ll be forced to take things a little slower this year, which I’m actually looking forward to. I don’t want to miss anything that I know I’ll regret not seeing or experiencing one day. I don’t want to miss my new baby’s first step or first word; I don’t want to miss my five-year-old son’s first Bulletjie rugby game or my four-year-old daughter’s first ballet recital. We’re often so busy making a living that we forget to enjoy and value those who’re forced to share us with our jobs. Work and family are both huge areas of our lives. For most, work is a financial necessity which allows us to live the lifestyle we’ve chosen or want for our loved ones. But many of us also work because we love it and because it allows us to use our abilities. However, we need to remember that being in a family means you’re a part of something wonderful and we should never take our loved ones for granted. It's not easy balancing work and home; in
WELCOME BACK AFTER WHAT I HOPE WAS A wonderful and relaxing festive season for you! The beginning of a new year is always exciting. For some people, 2019 might have been a fantastic year; for most, I suspect, it was somewhat more challenging than previous years. But January always signifies a new beginning, a chance to start over or do things differently. This year starts in a particularly exciting way for me. My husband Ferdi and I will be blessed with our third child on 14 January (unless he decides to surprise us earlier!). I remember telling Ferdi that I didn’t know how we’d cope if he was born in 2019, which was so frantic and fast-paced. Or has every year become frantic and fast-paced? How often do we say: “I can’t believe how this year’s flown!”? Work in 2019 was particularly demanding for me and I’m sure for most of you. I spent
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fact, I don’t know if it’s really even possible. There seems to always be an ebb and flow to our responsibilities and obligations to our family and our work, not to mention to our friends, community and ourselves. But how well we try to manage these two makes a significant difference to our relationships with our loved ones. Being happy and present at work and at home is good for your loved ones and for you. Let’s enjoy, appreciate and be grateful for our jobs, but also for our loved ones this year. Let’s switch off our cellphones or computers or TV sets when they’re telling us about their day. Let’s make time for a family trip together. One day those memories will be what we treasure most. May our loved ones know every single day how important they are to us and how we value their support. This year, stop and smell the roses, both at work and at home. Here’s to a wonderful 2020 for us all!
Adri Viviers
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MESSAGE FROM THE CEO
Message from the CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA 2019 HAS CERTAINLY BEEN A CHALLENGING year not only for the jewellery industry, but also for the economy of our country and worldwide. Despite the negative headlines, we believe there are grounds for increased optimism in 2020. Chairperson Chris van Rensburg and ViceChairperson Nthabiseng Xaba were re-elected to the council for the next three years with the assistance of the board and CEO on all strategic platforms. In addition, Dave Newman from the Tshwane University of Technology will continue to lead the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA (JMASA) as Chairperson. Although Jewellex Africa 2019 was smaller and attendance was poor, exhibitors at the event experienced some good business dealings, with retailers preparing for the expected yearend increase in consumer demand. The show looked good and all the activities contributed to a successful weekend of trade and networking. The main activities included the Cocktail Function and Fashion Show sponsored by Anglo American Platinum, the Exhibitor Support Awards, the Business Breakfast sponsored by Rand Refinery, gin-tastings and Champagne in the CPM Chill Lounge, interesting talks in the MetCon Speaker’s Corner and the Jewellery Council Collection Awards Design Competition prize-giving. We have exciting plans for Jewellex Africa 2020, which involves a retail component to run concurrently with the show. Watch this space! The JCSA has had a busy year. We continue to consider the needs of our retail members. In this regard, a new project was initiated named the Professional Retail Skills Certificate. In the absence of any formal qualification of retail jewellery skills in SA, the Jewellery Council, in partnership with jewellery store-owners, will acknowledge their employees by issuing this certificate as formal recognition of their skills. The institutions from which members receive preferential rates for processing credit
cards are Nedbank and Diners Club. We are in the process of negotiating better rates. We continue to work with retailers on the standardising of valuation practices recommended by the JCSA, as well as the disclaimers recommended by the council, in an effort to protect them against legal claims, as well as save on legal costs. The council participated in Times Media’s Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury to promote the JCSA and the importance of consumers purchasing from jewellers who abide by a code of ethics and conduct. The Jewellery Council Risk/Security Initiative is crucial and the Consumer Goods Council continues to work with our industry, the Council of Shopping Centres and independent shopping centre security managers to combat crime. The more information we share with our jewellers and vice versa, the better they can protect themselves from further robberies. The JMASA has again offered the Jewellery Manufacturing Trade Certificate (JMTC), which is a trade test set up by the industry to recognise skills within the manufacturing environment. Our manufacturing members once again participated at Department of Trade & Industry (DTI)-sponsored international exhibitions with the aim of creating export markets. These included shows in New York, Paris and Miami. We will pursue this again in 2020 with the DTI’s assistance, offering our members a platform in the international market. Despite ongoing attempts, the council has not yet succeeded in our submission to SABS to amend the ZA mark. The JMASA Executive Committee has appointed members to represent the council on the SABS board. We will persist until a positive outcome has been achieved. A crucial project last year was the decision to pursue a legal route relating to the new Mining Charter, which was published in September 2018. This decision was not taken lightly and we believe that obtaining a legal opinion and
presenting this to the Department of Mineral Resources will prove that the charter, in its present format, will have a detrimental effect on the jewellery industry. The new owners of SA Jewellery News continue to publish the magazine on behalf of the council and, as such, have continued to conduct the monthly Business Barometer among retailers, wholesalers and diamond traders. The aim is to provide statistics on the growth and decline of jewellery and diamond sales, metal consumption and crime statistics in SA. I encourage both members and nonmembers to attend our annual roadshows around the country not only to become better informed about industry-related activities, but also to network with colleagues about matters of interest in specific regions. Any association is only ever as strong as the total number of its members and we therefore invite you to participate and make use of the opportunities offered by the Jewellery Council. For more information on the council, its activities and how to become a part of a responsible jewellery community, visit our website: www.jewellery.org.za; JCSA Closed Facebook for members: JCSA Members Group. Alternatively, contact us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za.
Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer
MEMBERSHIP INVITATION
Become a Member Today! For further information on membership benefits visit: www.jewellery.org.za All enquiries including membership costs are to be directed to Bavina Vassan on (011) 484 5528 or bavinav@jewellery.org.za
Initiating, Implementing, Informing, Supporting, Representing
NEWS
SHIMANSKY UNVEILS ICONIC TABLE MOUNTAIN RING The Table Mountain Ring, paying homage to one of SA’s most iconic natural wonders, was launched by luxury jewellery design house Shimansky at the end of last year. Shimansky CEO and founder Yair Shimansky, who unveiled it at the opulent Rockwell showroom, said that far more than an item of jewellery, the Table Mountain Ring is a soulful connection with majestic Table Mountain, which gives Cape Town and SA a special presence. “The ring enables locals and visitors to become a part of that special magic every day, wherever they are,” said Shimansky. For the next three months, the ring will also be available in silver from R980 and white, yellow or rose gold in three different styles: plain, with a single diamond or with 27 diamonds which intricately trace the iconic silhouette of the mountain. It will be available at Shimansky showrooms and stores, as well as in the gift shop on the top of Table Mountain. The Table Mountain Ring collection was made available from 1 December at Shimansky showrooms and stores, and at the gift shop on top of Table Mountain. “We believe strongly in the power of teamwork and collaboration, which is why this project with an authentic SA brand like Shimansky makes so much sense to us,” says Wahida Parker, MD of Table Mountain Cableway. “Ultimate-
ly, the ring will help us share the beauty of Table Mountain with even more people. Just think of what a great conversation-starter it will make!” Visitors can view the making of the Table Mountain Ring at the Shimansky Clock Tower workshop (at the V&A Waterfront), where the brand’s master jewellers and diamond-polishers perform their magical craft. Shimansky’s commitment to enhancing the visitor experience in SA saw the launch of its exclusive Diamond Experience at the Clock Tower and the Rockwell Diamond Experience in Green Point. These tourist attractions offer unique insights into the 3,3 billion-year journey of a Shimansky diamond and highlight the craftsmanship inherent in every unique piece of jewellery produced by the brand. “With tourism earmarked as a key economic enabler of the Western Cape, we’ll continue to
uphold our commitment to it,” said Shimansky. In November last year, he arrived in Cape Town New York, where he was part of an exhibition titled The Protagonist, curated by Vogue Italia to celebrate the world’s best designers who are mindful and practise sustainability in jewellery. The Salon Art + Design New York has acquired an international reputation for excellence in design and unprecedented quality. Shimansky continues to showcase SA to the globe through its expansion to the USA, with the launch of an opulent showroom on New York’s iconic 5th Avenue in 2018.
LAB WARNS OF COLOUR INSTABILITY IN CVD Synthetic diamonds grown using chemical vapour deposition (CVD) could change colour for an extended period following exposure to certain light forms, Gemological Science International (GSI) warns. When testing a 2ct CVD diamond, GSI exposed the stone to high-powered ultraviolet (UV) rays, during which it went from nearcolourless to blue. This blue colouring remains despite a week in a vault, says GSI. Although CVD diamonds are known to change
colour under strong UV lighting or extreme heat, they generally return to normal after 30-60 minutes of direct sunlight. However, the stone in question took two-and-a-half hours to return to its regular hue, it adds, warning that colour changes in CVD may occur through casual use. “When being worn out in the open, CVD diamonds may change in colouration upon even subtle exposures to electromagnetic radiation, such as UV rays on a sunny beach, or under a blacklight in a nightclub, for example,” says GSI
Chief Information Officer Nicolas Del Re. The stones change colour due to photochronism, a process in which the electrons in defects within the CVD diamond cause the energy state to change, thereby affecting the way colour is absorbed on the visible spectrum, the organisation explains. “It’s strongly suggested that all laboratorygrown CVD diamonds be placed in a fullspectrum light box for at least 30 minutes before colour grading,” adds Del Re. – Rapaport
ALROSA IDENTIFIES POTENTIAL NEW DIAMOND RESOURCES Alrosa has identified three new exploration sites that could potentially yield 17,9 million carats of rough across their lifespan, according to preliminary estimates. The sites are located close to Alrosa’s Mir mine in the Yakutia region of Russia. “Detecting new diamond deposits in the Nizhne-Botuobinskaya area will make a signifi-
8
cant contribution to the development of Alrosa’s mineral resource base and, in the longer run, will support the financial, economic and social situation in that region,” says the company. Geologists performed testing on the sites, which are located in the company’s MaloBotuobinksy licence area, including magnetic and electric exploration and high-frequency
seismic surveys. The team studied a total of 200 000 m². The Russian miner will perform a prospect evaluation survey that will enable it to reach the kimberlite inside. That test will provide further information on the entirety of the deposit’s contents, explains Konstantin Garanin, Alrosa’s Chief Geologist. – Rapaport
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
NEWS
2020 FACTORY OF THE YEAR COMPETITION The Department of Trade & Industry (DTI) is once again a partner and sponsor of the 2020 Factory of the Year competition. Since 1992, Factory of the Year has become the leading global benchmarking competition for manufacturing firms. Together with the DTI, the Council for Scientific & Industrial Research, the Manufacturing Circle and the Manufacturing Indaba, the competition was launched in South Africa for the first time in June 2018. With rapidly changing competitive landscapes and developments in manufacturing through advanced technologies such as additive manufacturing, Internet of Things, big data and advanced analytics, the bar for manufacturing excellence is constantly evolving. As such, the purpose of the competition is to identify and
reward excellence in manufacturing operations across all manufacturing segments. Factory of the Year is globally regarded as the most rigorous operations assessment, with performance assessed across the following areas: value creation, economics, innovation, quality, agility and customer satisfaction. Since 1992, hundreds of companies have participated and benefited from the independent, cross-industry feedback that comes with the benchmark. It has enabled them to analyse their strengths and weaknesses and initiate spot-on improvements. Participation is open to and encouraged across all manufacturing segments. “Factory of the Year is much more than a competition – it's bringing about consciousness
of future manufacturing in South Africa, trends and examples of Industry 4.0 solutions that work,” says Ilse Karg, Chief Director of Future Industrial Production Technologies at the DTI. “All South African manufacturers stand to gain huge learnings from this competition as it's not only a benchmarking of capability against the world or in South Africa, but also against oneself,” says Martin Sanne, Executive Director for the Council for Scientific & Industrial Research. There is no cost to participate in the competition, but participating companies must complete and submit a competition questionnaire. Manufacturing businesses who wish to participate in the competition are invited to visit: www.safactoryoftheyear.co.za for further details.
WDC PRESIDENT URGES GOVERNMENTS TO ACT ON KP REFORMS Speaking directly to government representatives at the start of the 2019 Kimberley Process (KP) Plenary Meeting in New Delhi, India, at the end of last year, Stephane Fischler, President of the World Diamond Council (WDC), stated that, with the KP’s three-year reform and review cycle about to end, governments alone hold the future of the process in their hands. “I strongly believe that the future relevance of this remarkable enterprise, the Kimberley Process, will be determined by the decisions taken by you, member countries, and possibly those that won’t be taken during this week in New Delhi,” he stated. “Lives and livelihoods
of individuals who rely on the work that we do together will be impacted by both your actions and inaction. “The WDC has been candid about what we’d like to see happen, which is that the definition of conflict diamonds should incorporate all the most severe instances of violence, whether they be carried out by rebel, private or staterun security forces, or by criminal elements,” Fischler added. However, he noted, the WDC understands that the KP, although tripartite, particularly through its consensus decisionmaking system, requires a political process. Industry took its own steps in 2018 when
the WDC Board of Directors approved a new System of Warranties, a compliance system that goes beyond the scope of the KP Certification Scheme and includes the implementation of universally accepted principles on human and labour rights, anti-money-laundering and anti-corruption. “It’s in the collective interests of all participants in the KP that all KP-certified rough diamonds meet the standards and expectations of the market,” Fischler said. “Within our area of influence, we have a duty to consider long-term solutions that will protect our most vulnerable stakeholders.”
CHRISTIE’S MAGNIFICENT JEWELS TOTALS US$67,5 MILLION Christie’s 11 December auction of Magnificent Jewels totalled US$67 519 625, with 93% sold by value and 91% sold by lot. The auction took place over two sessions lasting nearly 10 hours with active global participation from registered bidders spanning 44 countries. The top lot of the sale was The duPont Ruby, a Burmese ruby, emerald, diamond and natural pearl brooch of 11,20ct from The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, Sold to Benefit Future Acquisitions, which sold for US$8 957 750. Other notable results included a superb fancy vivid blue diamond ring of 3,07ct, VVS1 clarity, which sold for US$3 375 000; a Belle Époque Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring of 30,14ct that achieved US$3 015 000; a diamond ring of 24,13ct, D colour, flawless clarity, that realised US$2 055 000; a diamond
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
ring of 23,55ct, D colour, potentially internally flawless, by Harry Winston, which sold for US$2 235 000; and The duPont Emerald, a Belle Époque Colombian emerald and diamond ring of 9,11ct, Tiffany & Co from The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, Sold to Benefit Future Acquisitions, which sold for more than three times its low estimate, realising US$1 635 000. Private collections performed with strong results, such as Property from the Rothschild Family Including the late Baroness Edouard de Rothschild and the late Jacqueline de Rothschild Piatigorsky, which was led by an Art Deco bracelet by Cartier that sold for US$771 000; Property from the Collection of Judith-Ann Corrente, which featured the Art Deco diamond sautoir by Van Cleef & Arpels that achieved more than three times its low estimate, selling
for US$1 515 000; and The Collection of Deeda Blair Sold to Benefit the Deeda Blair Research Initiative Fund for Disorders of the Brain, which was 100% sold. Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewellery, Christie’s, remarks: “The depth of bidding, strong sell through rates and solid prices realised demonstrate Christie’s continued ability to source and sell the very best jewels for our collectors. This sale was particularly special as it comprised truly exceptional gemstones, led by The duPont Ruby, alongside an unparalleled depth of significant signed jewels from important private collections. We're delighted with the results, as they showcase the strength of the market and a broader, more sophisticated approach to what our clients are looking to acquire.”
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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR CALENDAR
Make a date for 2020 JANUARY 10-13
Malaysia International Jewellery Fair, Malaysia
www.mijf.com
17-22
VicenzaOro January, Italy
www.vicenzafiera.it
17-22
T-Gold International Jewellery Technology Show, Italy
www.vicenzafiera.it
FEBRUARY 2-6
Spring Fair International, Birmingham, England
www.springfair.com
13-16
India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Signature, India
www.iijs.org
14-17
Inhorgenta Europe, Germany
www.inhorgenta.com
25-29
Bangkok Gem & Jewellery Fair, Thailand
www.bkkgems.com
MARCH 2-6
HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, China
www.hktdc.com
4-8
HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, China
www.hktdc.com
14-17
China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Shenzhen
www.shenzhenjewelleryfair.com
19-22
Istanbul Jewelry Show, Turkey
https://march.istanbuljewelryshow.com
APRIL 3-5
Gem & Jewellery India International Fair, Chennai
www.gjiif.in
18-21
OroArezzo, Italy
www.oroarezzo.it
26-29
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Geneva
www.baselworld.com
Baselworld, Switzerland
www.baselworld.com
30-5 May
JUNE 2-5
JCK Las Vegas, USA
www.jcklasvegasshow.com
JULY 6-7
Jovella Israel, Israel
www.stier.co.il
AUGUST 6-10
India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), India
www.iijs.org
7-10
Malaysia International Jewellery Fair, Malaysia
www.elite.com.my
SEPTEMBER 1-5
HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, Hong Kong
www.hktdc.com
5-9
VicenzaOro Fall, Italy
www.vicenzafiera.it
OCTOBER TBA
Jewellex Africa, Johannesburg
www.jewellex.co.za
DECEMBER TBA
10
VOD Dubai International Jewellery Show, Dubai
www.jewelleryshow.com
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
DIAMONDS
Ernie Blom, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, provides a summary of last year and gives an indication of what he believes we can expect in 2020. MEMBERS OF THE ORGANISATION WHICH I have the honour of heading – the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) – have faced another difficult year in 2019, but I believe that in some respects, the encouraging trend of the last few months of this year will continue into 2020. I am referring to a rise in sales of rough diamonds in recent months after relatively low sales throughout much of 2019, due to a large overhang of polished goods in the sector. Unfortunately, a large number of goods were manufactured and that was what produced this surplus. I am happy that during the second half of the year, they cut back their purchases in order to let the diamond jewellery sector absorb the polished stones that were in the pipeline. In many respects, the issues that WFDB members faced in 2019 are likely to be on the agenda again in 2020. These include the difficulties of securing finance, the lack of profitability for manufacturers and traders, and the ongoing threat from the synthetic diamond sector. As you know, several important banks have withdrawn from diamond industry financing in recent years, but we have seen the establishment of alternative finance providers. I believe that the issue of razor-slim profitability, where it exists at all, will be dealt with to some extent by the reduction in manufacturing mentioned above. As for synthetic stones, while they remain a small part of global polished supply – estimated at around 2-4% – they nonetheless continue to attract much attention, particularly among millennial buyers.
Diamonds: what we can expect in 2020 We need to keep emphasising the rarity of diamonds: that is why they retain their value and why they are passed down from generation to generation. We all know the expression, “You get what you pay for” – and that has never been truer than the difference between diamonds and synthetic stones. Put quite simply, there is a reason that supposedly identical items have different prices. 2020 is likely to see a continuing growth in the production of synthetic stones, but their prices will inevitably drop as output rises, while diamond prices will continue to be stores of value and rarity. There is also the issue of undisclosed synthetics. However, we are cheered by the development of detection devices and machines that do an excellent job of identifying them and are on hand at many of our affiliated bourses around the world. Global and local political and economic developments naturally affect our industry,
since it is part of the wider luxury sector. In this respect, the ongoing trade war between the USA and China will likely continue to impact us. However, we will probably see increasing prosperity in the USA, which remains the world’s most important market and accounts for about 50% of jewellery sales. With stock markets soaring, house prices rising strongly and unemployment at all-time lows, I believe we can be optimistic that diamond jewellery sales will rise in that country. I wish all readers of SA Jewellery News a healthy, prosperous and wonderful New Year!
In many respects, the issues that WFDB members faced in 2019 are likely to be on the agenda again in 2020. These include the difficulties of securing finance, the lack of profitability for manufacturers and traders, and the ongoing threat from the synthetic diamond sector. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
11
Specialising in GIA certified excellent cut diamonds & engagement jewellery
TEL: 0720156256 • EMAIL: yordiamond@gmail.com ADDRESS: Suite 309, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg, South Africa
Monthly educational insert A SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative
Written by Dr PetrĂŠ Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.
The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook
After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and 10 years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.
ISSUE 4
ISSUE 4 SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES • Finding and keeping the right personnel
• Beating the majors
• Managing expenses
• Managing a jewellery chain store
FINDING AND KEEPING THE RIGHT PERSONNEL In the diamond and jewellery industry, where trust and expertise are bedmates, the hiring of the right personnel is quite a challenge. However, motivating and keeping them are even more challenging. Before hiring anyone, assess (write down) your needs and what you can offer potential employees, as indicated below.
SET CRITERIA FOR THE RIGHT PERSON
HOW DO YOU FIND GOOD CANDIDATES? 1. Advertise Do this in trade magazines or newspapers.Your ad copy must be very specific and must ask for applicants to fax or e-mail their CVs, not to phone your office.
2. Recruiting agencies
Are your clients upmarket, thus requiring a patient and likeable person with a customer service approach? Or do you need an aggressive “deal-maker”?
Your brief to such agencies must be complete and specific. They could be expensive, but they often may come up with the right candidate.
Do you emphasise team work or do you require someone who operates best in a structured hierarchy? How are your personnel compensated - by salary, commission or a combination? Some people need the security of a regular salary; others prefer the challenge of commissions only.
3. Self-recruitment
What future opportunities are offered by your company? What training programmes are in place? Or do you require a person who is fully qualified? In short, you need to know what type of person you want in order to choose the right person for the job.
FINDING THE RIGHT PERSONNEL
Observe sales people in unrelated businesses, such as department stores, cosmetic counters and other serviceorientated establishments. When someone impresses you, imagine how your customers would react to such a person. Ask them if a career in the jewellery industry would interest them.
4. Head-hunting Unfortunately, the best people for your job may be working for your competitors. It is not unethical to ask such persons if they are considering a change. It may happen that, when you make someone a salary offer, he or she will inform you later that it has been bettered by their current employer. Do not get into a bartering situation. Inform the worker beforehand that your offer stands for 24 hours and that it will be unethical to use your offer to demand a salary increase from his/her current employer. Also point out that such action may damage his or her reputation in the industry.
SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES
EVALUATING APPLICANTS
APPOINTING STAFF
1. Do it yourself
It will be in your best interests to offer new appointees a professionally drafted employment contract. Obtain one from a labour lawyer or contact your trade organisation. A few issues that are specific to the nature of the jewellery industry should be included in your contract, such as:
Have the candidate fill in a proper application form, conduct interviews (use other staff members to interview as well) and do proper reference checks. Verify address, education and previous employment. Driver’s licence and bank credit checks will indicate if the candidate has a problem with substance abuse and how personal finances are handled.
Please note : It is important to know what questions cannot be asked legally. Get legal advice if you do not know.
2. Use outside experts Screening and skills testing by independent agencies are costly, but will save you money in the long run. These include honesty, intelligence and standard psychological profiling. Tests to evaluate a candidate’s performance and attitudes towards work values, ethics, customer service and supervision are also available from such agencies. For top-level management and sales positions, upper-level dimensional tests can be used.
•
Trade restrictions - it is very difficult to enforce such a restriction on workers and general admin staff. However, directors and those with access to sensitive information could, after resigning from your firm, be prevented from starting or joining a firm in opposition to you within a year and/or located within a radius of a few kilometres from your shop.
• •
Polygraph testing - South Africa has no law regulating the use of a polygraph (lie detector), as is the case in the USA and other countries. You are thus allowed to use a polygraph test for screening candidates or the periodic testing of staff. Your employment contract must, however, contain a clause in which your employee agrees to such testing. Company Code of Conduct - it is useful to prepare a Code of Conduct for your employees and include a clause in your employment contract stating that this code is incorporated and that material breach thereof may lead to dismissal, subject to the requirements of law.
•
Shortest possible notification period - when a worker does not want to continue working for you, it is better to let him go as soon as possible. Such a worker can do much harm and may even be tempted to steal during his last days with you. This could cost you much more than his outstanding salary is worth. Your notification period should thus be as short as possible.
PERSONALITY VS EXPERIENCE Very seldom will you find an applicant who has the perfect personality as well as the perfect experience. If you have to choose between these two aspects, the right attitude and a compatible personality far outweigh the experience any job-seeker may offer. Good sales people are normally well presented, look crisp and clean and are self-motivated. They are willing to take risks, have strong perseverance and can handle rejection. They are normally quite eloquent and need to be liked by others. Introverts and artists find a selling position quite daunting.
Use a professionally drafted employment contract.
ISSUE 4
MOTIVATION VS INSPIRATION
INTANGIBLE MOTIVATORS • • • • • •
Motivation comes from within a person. At best, a manager can inspire his staff and stimulate their own intrinsic need to excel and succeed - this is called motivation. In order to get the optimum performance from your staff, you have to discover what makes them want to do the job. Each employee has a different set of needs and expectations (hot buttons) which, when identified, can be satisfied (pressed) to improve their performance, ie, to motivate them.
INTANGIBLE DE-MOTIVATORS • • • • • •
Although the needs and expectations of top management will surely be different from those who have lower-level jobs, a few basic motivational principles are applicable to most employees. You need to know that: •
Employees need to be recognised and rewarded both tangibly and intangibly - when they meet their goals and your expectations. This means that you must engage your staff in setting individual and company goals, as well as standards that must be clear and reachable.
•
Money is probably not the number one way to reward achievements and satisfy the needs of your workers. Employees respond to a system that uses all types of recognition, from verbal to written, public, money and education. Other types of motivational triggers are job satisfaction, fair treatment, a pleasant atmosphere, respect and being able to provide service excellence.
•
Treat your employees with respect and make work fun by creating a lively, positive working environment. Let each employee know where he or she fits into the company and the importance of the work they do.
•
Lead by example and they will imitate your enthusiasm and work ethic.
Recognition of jobs well done Enthusiastic management Management by example Opportunities for advancement Exciting reward system Respect and trust
Insufficient job training Unrealistic goals Empty threats and promises No change in routine Verbal reprimand in front of others Favouritism
TANGIBLE MOTIVATORS • • • • • • • •
Discounts on merchandise Time off from work Promotion Health and insurance benefits Training courses Travel and dinners Money Transport allowance
COMPENSATION SYSTEMS Any compensation system will only be effective if it is managed properly. Whether you offer a salary, commission or both, there are a few basic principles you need to adhere to. 1. Offer a market-related remuneration. Ask your colleagues what works for them and adjust it to suit your type of business. 2.
Establish rules on how commissions will be paid. Is it based on individual sales? How is it split when more than one salesperson is involved? Do all salespeople have the same opportunities to make a sale? To prevent commission disputes, arrange that walk-in clients are served on a rotation basis, except where a customer asks for a specific person. Prevent fights over commission by enforcing your rules diligently.
3. As a guide, total salary costs, including commissions, should be about 40-50% of gross profit.
Threats and pressure on staff will not improve their effectiveness finding out what makes them want to work will.
4. If you offer overtime payment, make sure that you have a system in place which spells out in detail when overtime applies and the rate applicable to each worker.
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SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES
THE IDEAL SYSTEM Industry experts believe that combining a basic salary with commissions (usually 1-3% of sales) works best for sales people. Top and middle management often expect incentive bonuses based on the performance of their team. This motivates them to maintain a team spirit and to do necessary training. If your sales staff have access to the cost of stock and are allowed to negotiate a sales price, their commission cannot be based solely on their monthly sales figures. Their commission has to incorporate a por tion based on the gross profit which each salesperson has produced. For instance, 1% commission on total sales plus 5% of gross profit produced. Year-end bonuses of sales staff (if required) are ideally based on the achievement of agreed-upon sales targets. Compensating designers, admin staff and goldsmiths requires a different approach. Their performance is not as easy to judge as that of a salesperson and they normally work on a straight salary basis. They do, however, need to be rewarded for excellence. Year-end bonuses and other incentives normally work well, as long as you have a set of well-defined, measurable and achievable goals. .
BUILDING A TEAM In an organisation of any size, a team spirit is essential for staff loyalty and, ultimately, productivity. Go together to dinners and functions, or, even better, on a weekend away. Do things as a team outside the office and see how your productivity improves. Stress company ethics and see how proud your staff will be to be associated with your company.
MOTIVATING WORKERS IN A FAMILY BUSINESS In a corporate environment, the motivation of workers is relatively easy because well-established career paths are normally in place. In a small to medium-sized family business, it takes much more skill to motivate workers as they could perceive that certain positions will forever be out of their reach. Here are some guidelines on how to prevent de-motivation and possible resentment of non-family workers: •
Be honest with them about how far they can expect to advance in your company.
•
Compensate them in other ways if they will never reach the top position. Use profit-sharing plans, stock ownership plans, medical insurance, etc.
• It is advisable to give a non-family member a top position. This will boost morale and bring a new perspective to executive decisions. • Insist that family members gain experience elsewhere and have them trained to the best of their ability, before joining the company. •
Demand that younger family members respect older, more experienced employees and compensate them on their performance only, at least in their formative years with the company.
SOLVING PERSONNEL PROBLEMS Be prepared to discipline workers who cannot or will not do their jobs properly. Some may suddenly stop performing, while others may cause dissension among your staff. If you or your managers fail to take firm and corrective measures, such problems will only get worse.
Firstly, workers may fail to perform because they do not know what to do or what is expected of them. Employees need clear, written explanations of what is expected of them and what will happen if they do not produce. Company rules, policies, regulations and disciplinary actions should be in writing. Make sure all employees read and understand them.
Secondly, find out why a worker is underperforming. Is it personal, a lack of training or poor motivation?
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ISSUE 4
Thirdly, find out what you can do to improve the situation and act immediately. Fourthly, remember that you should use positive reinforcement whenever possible. People learn better and more quickly when they receive positive advice and encouragement. Lastly, if all fails, do not be afraid to give an ultimatum to improve or leave. Enforce your rules without bias and make sure that due process is followed.
ANGRY EMPLOYEES AND THE CCMA Before you dismiss an employee, make sure that you have a good reason for doing so. Arrange a disciplinary hearing if you have the required knowledge or use an employer advice service such as Labourwise. Dismissed workers often feel aggrieved and may refer their case to the Commission for Conciliation, Mediation and Arbitration (CCMA). At this tribunal, the worker’s complaint will be screened and, if found to have merit, the employer will be informed of a date on which a commissioner will act as arbitrator. Please be aware that one-third of all cases before the CCMA are lost by employers because incorrect procedures were followed.
REASONS FOR DISMISSAL •
Dismissals due to poor work performance are often unsuccessful at the CCMA because our labour law requires a strenuous process of counselling, training and mentoring.
•
Charges of misconduct (which include dishonesty, theft and fraud), absenteeism, insubordination, negligence, bad timekeeping or sleeping on the job are among the obvious reasons for dismissal. Employers must be aware that workers can claim constructive (unfair) dismissal where the company has made life so unbearable for the worker that he has no choice but to resign.
•
Workers may take their employer to the CCMA for alleged unfair labour practices, such as an alleged unfair demotion, probation issues, an unfair disciplinary hearing and disputes about benefits or renewal of contracts.
WHEN IS “DUE PROCESS” NOT REQUIRED? In certain situations, you are justified to fire an employee on the spot with no “due process” warnings, disciplinary hearings or a chance for improvement. These include: • Blatant insubordination or gross misconduct (if you are unsure, get legal advice on the definition of these terms). • Stealing. Please note: In a retail environment, you must actually catch your staff leaving the premises with money or items not belonging to them. • Threatening the safety of another employee. • Acting illegally, such as using or selling drugs.
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SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES
BEATING THE MAJORS AT THEIR OWN GAME Very often an independent retail jeweller finds it difficult to compete with the major chain stores because of his inability to merchandise properly. Poor buying techniques and obsolete stock make him less competitive, which results in low margins and financial woes.
see how their showcases are merchandised. Everything is grouped together - sometimes only three items, in the same style but in different total weights. Change your display theme on a six-monthly basis. Get professional help if you run out of ideas.
Effective merchandising starts with the buying process and ends with proper pricing.
Finally, keep track of your stock. This is where the major chains have an advantage. They can afford sophisticated computer systems whereby fast sellers are replaced weekly. You need to devise a low-tech system (like spotting the gaps in your display) to keep track of what sells. When you spot a dog (an item that attracts no attention or which has been on display for years), make a plan with it. Either re-model it, or replace the diamond with a less expensive stone, but don’t let it spoil the image of your showcase. Better still, put dead stock in a bargain-box (priced just above scrap value) away from your main displays.
THE BUYING PROCESS Most independent jewellers set an annual budget for stock and then pick items from a salesman’s sample range or from a trade fair. If some items sell faster, they re-order those. Some may have the suicidal philosophy to “never buy the same item twice, because we want our customers to see different things” - as if a customer needs a different ring every year. In fact, nearly 40% of an independent jeweller’s stock is normally obsolete - not entirely due to bad buying decisions, but due to poor merchandising. So how do the majors do it? They do not buy an item in an ad hoc manner just because they like its style or price. Rather, they put the emphasis on category, price points, margins and their ability to manage inventory. For example, choose your categories, eg, diamond solitaire rings, ear studs, etc, according to your clientele. Then decide on which price points to carry, eg, R1 000, R2 000, R5 000, R10 000. Now you know in what price range to buy in order to maintain your required profit margin. Note: Lower price points will allow larger profit margins. Now you have to display your inventory. Many jewellers will grab their display unit and fill the gaps with new stock. Wrong! Your stock needs to tell a story. Visit your competition and
PITFALLS OF PRICING Do not believe that the major stores use a double mark-up. They don’t do it and neither should you. Do not price luxury items at, say, R1 050,58. Also, a R1 999 tag looks suspicious and will not convince the serious buyer. Rather offer a genuine discount once a year. But do not overdo the sale tactic. If your window carries a SALE banner for 12 months, you are either going out of business or trying to fool someone. Your only disadvantage is that you may be buying one item at a time, thus at a higher price than what the chain store is paying. Try different suppliers, negotiate a better deal on one-offs, or team up with other independent jewellers when negotiating with your suppliers. Remember that a window overflowing with stock does not mean a healthy cash flow. Proper merchandising does.
MANAGING EXPENSES WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH How much your income exceeds your outlay is the measure of success - in any business. When income decreases, you have no choice but to cut your expenses. This is easy to understand. What is difficult is to know
which expenses to cut. Normally, the expenses that get trimmed first - such as advertising, salaries, merchandising and training - are the ones that should be trimmed last, especially those that involve your staff and market share.
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ISSUE 4
One of the first principles in managing your expenses is to have realistic expectations of future sales, to remember that spending patterns are cyclical and that a boom period will be followed by a slowdown in sales. 1.
It is very important to build up reserves during the good times. When sales pick up, do not spend recklessly and resist the temptation to employ more staff. Everyone should rather work a little harder during boom times. The final blow for a small firm is to have too many workers with fixed salaries when sales start drying up. Rather be mean and lean during the boom as well as the bust cycles.
2.
Know exactly the extent of your fixed assets. When sales decrease, many companies embark on a contingency plan and start to cut all unfixed expenses and even downsize staff. This is a short-term solution. You may survive this year, but what do you cut next year?
During a recession, the total pie gets smaller and your piece thereof will shrink accordingly. If you do not maintain your advertising, your piece will be even smaller and you may have to close your doors.
3.
It is important to know which type of advertising works for you. Many smaller jewellers do not know where their clients come from. Are they casual walk-ins, existing clients, referred by friends or did they see an advertisement? With only a few clients a day, it is not difficult to keep track of their origin and to determine which advertisement or promotion did its job.
4.
It is also a temptation to lay off staff during a recession. Remember that your staff is your greatest asset and that downsizing must be your last option. During quiet times, your staff should be managed and utilised to their full potential. Do the training that you do not find time for during boom times. Use your own human resources to do marketing and promotions for which outside agents are normally paid. The answer is that you have to be innovate and flexible during difficult times.
5. Forget your ego. Join forces with others who are in the same boat. A combined purchasing power will make you and your partner more competitive. 6.
Retain your spirit and optimism in order to instill confidence and to motivate your staff, especially those whose salary contains a large sales commission component. This is your greatest challenge. Some employees may leave during tough times. Use this opportunity to put more effort and training into the ones who remain loyal. 7.
When you have survived your first recession, analyse the mistakes you made and learn from the experience.
You will be ready and tough when the going gets tough again, as it surely will.
MONTHLY EDUCATIONAL INSERT 2020 In issue 5 (SA Jewellery News February edition): Managing chain stores: some thoughts on planning and strategy Customer research Merchandise planning Performance management Strategic planning Also in issue 5: Financial health Basic accounting principles Measuring the health of your company Gross margin – key to profitability Managing information
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MARKETS
Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.
DIAMOND DEALERS
OCTOBER 2019 VS OCTOBER 2018
RETAILERS
0% BETTER
100% SAME
0%
Best-selling diamond size
100% BETTER
0% BETTER
0%
0%
SAME
SAME
0%
100%
WORSE
WORSE
WORSE
Foot traffic
General sales compared with last year this time
Watch sales
0,5ct WHOLESALERS General sales compared with last year this time
General sales compared with last year this time
0%
Breakdown of retail sales
0%
BETTER
BETTER
0%
0%
SAME
SAME
100%
100%
WORSE
bridal
fine jewellery
watches
27%
68%
5%
WORSE
MANUFACTURERS
25%
0%
0%
BETTER
BETTER
BETTER
25%
75%
50%
SAME
50%
SAME
25%
SAME
50%
WORSE
WORSE
WORSE
Consumption of gold compared with last year this time
Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time
Consumption of silver compared with last year this time
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
(Above): Year-on-year percentage change in wholesale trade sales at current prices All information supplied by Stats SA.
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WATCHES
Swatch Group SA inaugurates new premises The Swatch Group SA (SGSA) has many reasons to celebrate, including finding a new home. TEN YEARS HAVE PASSED WITH LIGHTNING speed and three offices later, the SGSA has found a new home. “[In the past decade], the SGSA has established itself as a strong leader in the watch market, continuing to gain momentum and market share,” said Luigi Solimeo, Country Manager: SGSA, in his introductory speech at the brand’s new premises in the heart of Sandton, Johannesburg, at the end of last year. “Through the implementation of strict guidelines and procedures, we’ve managed to ensure growth and stability in the trade while promoting business growth,” he added. The Swatch Group in the South African market has strong and well-
established brands, some of which date back over 70 years with potential for further important growth. “We take business seriously and we have a competent, proudly South African team to serve local retailers and consumers. Further to this, the SGSA has an exclusive qualitative distribution for all our brands, thanks to important players, our retailers and business partners. “The success of the SGSA is the success of our business relationship with our partners, who hold the potential of our brands. Our new premises are also home to one of the world’s betterestablished CS centres, with the latest technical equipment and trained technicians to ensure exceptional service at all times. Our mission is to become the best luxury watch company in SA.” 10 reasons to celebrate 1. New home: The SGSA has formally in augurated its new premises in Sandton. 2. Innovation: The group files a new patent every two days, on average. This keeps the brand on trend and market-ready at all times. 3. Broadest appeal: The SGSA is the only company in the world which is present in every market segment with a mass-market product. From the very top of the range to children’s watches, the group offers con sumers products for every taste, every budget and, above all, every dream. 4. 360 watch producer: The SGSA is the world’s leading producer of finished watches. The group is a fully vertical com pany, manufacturing all the elements nec-
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essary for the production of mechanical and quartz watches. This allows it to create, pro duce and distribute its watch brand prod ucts independently. 5. Established local market: Since its inception in 2009, the SGSA has sold over 600 000 units through its subsidiary. 6. Growth: The group has experienced significant growth over its 10-year journey. 7. Valued retailers: The SGSA receives support from over 100 retailers across southern Africa, including Mozambique, Namibia, Réunion Islands, Mauritius, the Seychelles and Botswana, with greater potential in the rest of Africa and surroun ding islands. 8. The SGSA team: The reason the group is able to provide such quality service and delivery to its consumer channel is its highly motivated and skilled South African team. 9. At our heart, our customers: The SGSA has one of the most loyal and invested brand communities in SA. Their passion and enthusiasm make them not just customers, but valued extensions of our brand. 10. A decade of success: Attending the in auguration of the group’s new premises in Sandton were brand ambassadors who have played an important part in the SGSA’s journey. Also present was special guest and Longines International Family Member Terry Pheto, who cut the inaugural ribbon, as well as MC and radio friend of the brand, ProVerb.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
Sandton, Fourways, Mall of Africa, Eastgate, Menlyn, Ballito Junction, Galleria, Pavillion, Gateway, V&A, Canal Walk Tel: +27 11 911 1200, Shop.swatch.com
ONLINE TRADING
Trading safely online In today’s ever fast-paced business environment, finding routes to market and dealing with suppliers have now pushed jewellers to look outside the country’s borders. However, dealing internationally requires them to think smarter than before. Jason Laing, an international virtual jeweller, shares a few tips that jewellers need to keep in mind.
ONLINE RETAIL HAS EVOLVED INTO A WAY of trading jewellery internationally, making shopping easier than ever. However, it has also increased the likelihood of you not receiving the goods you ordered, your information ending up in the hands of the wrong person or security becoming an issue, since the safety of online purchases has not advanced with the pace of online sales. You therefore need to due diligence to protect your personal or company information, along with deliverables of goods purchased. Jewellers in SA seem to be unaware of what to do or what is required in order to trade internationally online safely, so here are some helpful tips to get you started and assess whether you are doing things correctly. Keeping your information safe 1. Using a credit card for purchases has become a way of life for us all when it comes to online transactions, so use a credit card with online fraud protection. Many banks will return your money if you are defrauded and, in many cases, will notify you if an irregular transaction is taking place with your card. Contact your bank or credit card provider to determine whether your card has such protection. If not, try to find one that does offer insurance for online purchases. Credit cards are more likely to offer fraud protection than debit cards.
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In some cases, there are alternative options to using your everyday credit or debit card, with banks offering “single-use” credit card numbers. These can be used for only one purchase, so even if your information is compromised, it cannot be used again. Ask your bank whether this is an option on the account you hold with it. 2. Be smart and take note by recording the purchase details of your transactions. After making a purchase, always record the time, date, receipt number and order confirmation. If you cannot print this out, take a screenshot as proof of purchase by either using the print screen option on your PC or taking a picture with your mobile phone. 3. Be diligent and keep an eye on your bank accounts. Also check your statements regularly when shopping online, as well as your credit and debit card statements. Look out for any suspicious charges and check
the charges against your transactions. Call your bank or credit card company immediately if you see anything that does not match the transactions you have recorded. If you find duplicate transactions, irregular amounts or even a change in description of the vendor you purchased from, chances are you have been hacked and you need to contact your banking institution immediately. (Tip: Find the fraud notification number of your bank and keep it on your mobile phone contact list so you can dial it immediately, since transaction notifications often come out of business hours, especially if your card was used for an overseas purchase. These fraud notification lines usually operate 24/7, or they will get back to you first thing in the morning if you dial them late at night.) When possible, try to make purchases primarily
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
ONLINE TRADING
with your credit card. It will be easier for your bank to refund any scammed purchases than those made with a debit card. 4. Do not be fooled by “Sign up here” options that ask for a lot of information which does not seem relevant to what the product or site offers. Never give out excessive information, as online purchases should only require your credit card information, address and phone number. If the website is also asking for your identity number, you should be suspicious. This information can be used to steal your identity and is completely unnecessary for an online purchase. 5. Scan for malware. Malware programs that are downloaded online can monitor your keystrokes and pick up your account information, even from secure websites, so make sure you have a good anti-virus software package running on your computer. 6. Be diligent and use difficult passwords, even though many of us find it hard to keep up to speed with them. If your passwords are not well designed, a hacker can guess them and use saved account information to order products. Try to use different passwords for each website and avoid common words on all sites where you do transactions. Hackers can also figure out passwords using birthdates or anniversaries. And never write your passwords down anywhere except on paper at home, which is safely locked away. Passwords written down and kept in wallets, handbags or briefcases can be found and used instantly in the event of your property being lost or stolen. 7. Avoid making purchases in public where you are connected to a public Wi-Fi or Internet connection. Do not buy anything on public computers, including those available at libraries. If you do, your private information will be saved where others can access it. You should even be careful about making a purchase with your own laptop in a public place. If you must make a purchase in public, using mobile phone data is safer than using a public Wi-Fi connection. Consider downloading the retailer’s app to make the purchase. Finding a secure website or supplier 1. Shop with established companies and companies that have a track record dating back a reasonably long time. Establish whether the website you are working with is real and has relevant links to any industry players. An easy way to do this is to shop with well-known businesses with which you are familiar. Some scams pretend to be big-box stores, so check the domain names carefully to ensure you are on a legitimate website. Often fraudsters have been known to
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
misspell words, so check the web address to verify that there are no misspellings, such as “grafics" instead of “graphics”. Fake websites often also often replace a “.com” with a “.net”. Check carefully for these errors. 2. If you are dealing with a possible supplier for the first time, research their identity, location and contact details. Search the website for an e-mail address, postal address and telephone number. You should be suspicious if this information is not readily available. Scam artists are unlikely to publish their addresses or phone numbers, because these make them easier to trace. Any reputable company should have a helpline or a way for you to physically contact them. If you are uncertain about a website, call the helpline to see if you get a response. Google Maps and Street View can also be used to see whether the address on the website matches the vicinity and building.
3. Research the company’s reputation, ranking and legitimacy through relevant councils. Look online for reviews of the website, but be suspicious if the reviews are too glowing. Some frauds promote fake reviews to lure unsuspecting victims. Be wary of reviews left on social media websites. If the company is in charge of that site, it can easily delete any negative reviews and leave only the good ones. 4. Avoid purchases with unclear terms and conditions. The retailer should be able to provide a clear price for the product you are purchasing, including shipping. The supplier should also be able to tell you exactly what you will receive in return. Avoid, for example, online deals that promise a chance of winning
something if you make repeated subscription payments. 6. Only make purchases on secure websites. Never buy anything on websites that do not have secure sockets layer (SSL) encryption. To check whether a website has SSL, look for a closed padlock symbol in your browser address bar. The first letters in the address bar should change from “http” to “https”. Typically, this will not happen until you reach the payment stage. An unbroken key may also be present on a secure website. 7. Install a phishing filter. If you are having trouble distinguishing good from bad websites, use an online phishing filter, which will warn you if it detects something dodgy. 8. Keep yourself informed about scams. E-mails and social network notifications, many of which appear to be from well-known companies, are circulated around the Internet to “phish” for your private information. Legitimate companies, including banks, will never send you an e-mail with a link requesting your login, password or credit card details. To take your online trading to an even more secure level, it is a good idea to use an affiliate system where suppliers have a certified and verified site (for example, Amazon). This protects you because the affiliate system requires a full business check before a supplier opens a store with it. The team at the affiliate system therefore does the full research on your behalf and you stand a better chance of getting your money back if you do not receive the items you purchased, or if they are defective. Delivery of goods purchased When placing your order, many websites or suppliers will let you know which courier delivery service they will be using and provide you with a tracking number or tracking details. Suppliers in Asia have what is called an “E-packet system”, where their government helps sponsor the courier charges in order to promote international trade. The problem is that the merchandise ends up going through SA’s post office – and when the items are expensive, like jewellery, they fail to arrive, or arrive months later, with no insurance recourse if they have been damaged. So make sure your supplier is using a suitable courier, or arrange from your end to send a relevant courier to collect on your behalf. The whole process really boils down to being smart, logical and following established and trusted systems. Do not assume that because the price is good, you are getting a good deal. As the saying goes: “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.”
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DID YOU KNOW?
Interesting facts 1
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Australian researchers confirm that deep-rooted eucalyptus trees pilfer gold from ore deposits underground and transport them into their leaves.
Harry Winston was the first jewellery brand to dress celebrities in its pieces on the red carpet in 1943.
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The honour of being given the world’s most expensive engagement ring falls to Mariah Carey. The ring, given to Carey by James Packer, cost a stunning $10 million.
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According to Wuzong Zhou, a professor of chemistry at the University of St Andrew's, around 1,5 million diamond nanoparticles can be found in a candle’s flame.
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Finger and toe stalls are pieces of gold jewellery used to protect digits during burial. Such stalls were used during the 18th Dynasty of Egypt and were thought to protect the deceased from magical dangers. Toe stalls were discovered in the tomb of Tutenkhamun.
Earthquakes move through ruptures in the earth called faults. When an earthquake strikes, the mineral-rich water lodged in the faults is vaporised through a process called flash vaporisation. As the water is vaporised, minerals such as silica and gold solidify, causing gold to be deposited.
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Sir Walter Scott wrote a novel called Anne of Geierstein, where the fire of an opal, owned by the protagonist, was quenched when touched by holy water. The lady died soon after. The book led to a huge decrease in the popularity of opals because they were perceived as unlucky stones.
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The agate gemstone is known for having natural stripes all over its body. The stripes on the stone are because of the accumulation of minerals such as chalcedony or quartz.
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Various functionalities on watches such as water-resistance, moon phase and date display are known as complications in the watch community. Watches can have multiple complications, but dress watches have few or no complications other than simply telling the time.
• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
Zenith’s Defy Inventor Zenith has been showcasing its Defy collection as a platform for the brand’s renewed emphasis on advanced technology and materials, including its single-piece oscillator that beats at an extremely high frequency of 18 Hz or 129 600 vph, compared with the usual 4 Hz or 28 800 vph. This year, the watch with the super-oscillator is no longer a limited-edition concept and will be produced in a run of several hundred pieces. The revolutionary single-piece oscillator replaces the traditional 30-piece standard regulating organ and is made of silicone. The case is made of lightweight titanium and the textured bezel is made of Aeronith, an aluminium-polymer composite which is three times lighter than titanium. The dial is open-worked to resemble a stylised propeller, with blades evoking the Zenith star. Functions include hours, minutes and central seconds with a stop-second mechanism. Its titanium case is 44 mm in diameter and 14,5 mm thick, with an Aeronith bezel, a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides and a sapphire crystal case-back. and is water-resistant to 50 m. A black rubber strap with midnight blue alligator coating features a titanium doublefolding clasp. Zenith is a brand which has been bringing style and substance to the wrists of watchmaking cognoscenti all over the world for more than 150 years. Founded in Le Locle in 1865 by vision-
ary watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot, the Manufacture Zenith gained swift recognition for the precision of its chronometers, which has won it 2 333 chronometry prizes since the company was started: an absolute record. Having earned fame thanks to its legendary El Primero calibre – an integrated automatic column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 1969 and endowed with a high frequency of 36 000 vibrations per hour, which ensures short-time measurements accurate to the nearest 1/10th of a second – the Manufacture Zenith has since developed over 600 movement variations. Zenith remains one of a select group of traditional luxury watch brands producing all their movements in-house, the industry’s ultimate accolade of quality. Engaged in several vintage territories such as classic cars, Zenith currently offers a collection of exclusive, finely crafted timepieces designed for sartorially minded men and women.
OUR SECOND STORE IS OPENING SOON! For your convenience, our new store will be situated in BlueBird shopping centre in Birnam (near Melrose Arch)
Breitling releases Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk Editions Three new Breitling Aviator 8 watches honour Curtiss Wright, a renowned American aircraft manufacturer and the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, its most famous plane. The P-40 Warhawks were manufactured between 1938 and 1944. With the release of two chronographs, one featuring a Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01 and an understated three-hand watch, Breitling makes it clear that aviation remains an essential part of its brand DNA. These three new watches – the Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk, the Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk and the Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Curtiss Warhawk – salute a partnership between two true aviation pioneers. With their modern flair, the Aviator 8 watches are sure to appeal to a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
Besides our goldsmith service, we are proud to now also offer additional services to the trade.
WATCH REPAIRS TO THE TRADE Studio: 011 616 5328 Cell: 071 193 1872
THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST
Happy New Year/Decade Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead. IT’S A DOUBLE “NEW”, so let’s capitalise on it and make it work for us! How to do this? Firstly, “start as you mean to go on” – one of my wife’s favourite sayings. So the big question for us to ponder early in this new year and decade is not how 2020 has started for us, but how we’ve started it. Many people who had the privilege of getting away over the festive season are less than happy to be back at work: “It feels like I never had a holiday”, “I need another one”, “It was way too short”, etc. Maybe you never had a break at all, worked through December and are now feeling particularly worn out. Whichever category you fit into, we all face the
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challenge of getting back into the “business as usual” swing of things and the prospect of starting the same old, same old cycle all over again. What we need is some new – and we can make some new happen! We can design and choreograph new dreams, new possibilities, new attitudes, new disciplines, new ways of working, new experiences and new interactions. You know that old saying, “A change is as good as a holiday”? It has a lot of truth to it because when we experience something new, we get a rush of adrenaline, excitement and energy similar to those we feel when we’re on vacation. While holidays are a chance to relax, they also take us to a new environment, away from repetitive patterns of day-to-day work demands and stresses. As far as possible, try to put the past behind you – because it is! Don’t let the old occupy val-
uable space and time in your mind. Change some familiar, old habits and do something new, intentionally and deliberately. I’m not referring to massive shifts, but minor, positive changes. For example, vary the location of meetings or the way you conduct them. Embark on new ways of connecting with people; new ways of celebrating success; new ways of approaching old problems; new ways of communicating and thinking. Create mini “holiday” opportunities and experiences for employees to take a break from the stress of work without having to go on holiday. Involve them more often, seek their creative input in solving problems and engineering new systems. Get them to engage in a little “business as unusual” and see what it does to the motivation and engagement levels within your company. Let’s “start as we mean to go on”. Here’s to the next decade and beyond, and wishing you, your families and businesses a remarkable and successful New Year!
Get your employees to engage in a little ‘business as unusual’ and see what it does to the motivation and engagement levels within your company. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
JEWELLERY DESIGN
Design@50 Enterprise Development Programme to be launched in 2020 THE DESIGN@50 COMMERCIAL JEWELLERY Design Project, named for its location at House No 50 in the Rand Refinery Precinct, is a training initiative which was established specifically to ensure the increased development of marketresponsive commercial jewellery design skills, required to facilitate increased design and production of internationally competitive jewellery from SA, thereby supporting the IDZ objectives of contributing to the growth of the South African economy through exports.
The Gauteng Growth & Development Agency (GGDA), in co-operation with the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), launched the Design@50 Commercial Jewellery Design Project in April 2013 as part of the Jewellery Manufacturing Precinct, an anchor project of the Gauteng Industrial Development Zone (GIDZ).
The Design@50 Programme The 11-month Design@50 programme is designed as a post-graduate course in marketing, commercial jewellery design and product development. The aim is to develop commercial jewellery designers who can research a market and – through the use of technology – design and develop products for that market, utilising state-of-the-art computer-aided design (CAD) and manufacturing technology. Progress since inception Design@50’s current training programme has successfully trained 88 students and is at an advanced level. To date, it remains a one-ofa-kind training facility offering CAD training to jewellery graduates in SA. The current group of 15 students will graduate at the end of February 2020, bringing the total to 103 graduates. An impact analysis was conducted recently to measure the effectiveness and success rate of the Design@50 training intervention. The study indicated a self-employment rate of 32% and an employment rate of 47% among graduates. The remaining 21% represents graduates who are furthering their studies, unemployed or unaccounted for. Owing to the strong entrepreneurial quali-
ties demonstrated by graduates, a need was identified to support graduates in their business start-ups. The Design@50 Enterprise Development Programme will be launched as a pilot project in April 2020 to provide top achievers with exposure to funding opportunities, local and international exhibitions, access to business incubation services that offer business support, marketing opportunities and access to both technical equipment and mentorship. Design@50 Enterprise Development Programme Motivation Government has identified entrepreneurship and business development as important build-
ing blocks for a growing, sustainable economy. SA’s National Development Plan (NDP) states that about 90% of jobs in the country will be created through SMMEs by 2030. Entrepreneurship has the potential to be one of the most critical contributors to SA’s economic growth. It has a vital role to play in the country’s development and upliftment through job creation, poverty alleviation and integration. With the business failure rate in SA believed to be above 70%, it is clear that the largest amount of support is required in the early-stage business category. The country’s entrepreneurs find access to markets their greatest challenge, while funding was identified as the secondbiggest challenge. To realise the vast potential and utilise the opportunities presented by the eco-system, there needs to be more collaboration between government and public-sector institutions, the private sector, investors and training institutions. Supporting top achievers from Design@50 with business start-ups will help not only qualifying graduates, but also the GGDA, GIDZ and JCSA by increasing the long-term success and growth rate of the Design@50 Skills Development Programme, ultimately supporting the IDZ’s objective of contributing to the growth of SA’s economy through enhanced exports of locally manufactured jewellery.
Supporting top achievers from Design@50 with business startups will help not only qualifying graduates, but also the GGDA, GIDZ and JCSA by increasing the long-term success and growth rate of the Design@50 Skills Development Programme, ultimately supporting the IDZ’s objective of contributing to the growth of SA’s economy through enhanced exports of locally manufactured jewellery. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
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connect BOOKINGS JULY-DEC 2020 BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY
OPEN TO A DV E R T ISE CO N TAC T I A N O R L A ME E S
011 883 4627 • ian@isikhova.co.za • lamees@isikhova.co.za
BUSINESS MANAGEMENT
From idea to execution: how continuous improvement can transform your business Sir Richard Branson knows a thing or two about ideas. One of his favourite quotes is from Alfred North Whitehead, the groundbreaking philosopher and mathematician: “Ideas won't keep. Something must be done about them.” Anna Chetty, Strategic Project Manager at RS Components SA, shares her thoughts on what businesses can do to create a continuous improvement (CI) culture. WE HAVE ALL BEEN THERE. A flash of inspiration hits: what a great idea! But we forget to write it down, or – if we do – we get bogged down with other demands. Problems and barriers emerge. Instead of changing, things stay the same. In a company, this means stagnation. Ideas are the remedy for stagnation. They could be small, yet highly consequential. How well a company can support and implement those ideas to innovate is a good predictor of future success. This is a challenge for many organisations. There are plenty of good ideas that are not implemented. Execution falls short, often because the organisation’s cultural support for ideation is lacking. This problem has finally found a solution in a revolutionary concept: CI. What can businesses do to create a CI culture and deliver on new ideas? Let us start by
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
better understanding what CI is and why it is so important. CI is an ongoing focus and mindset that drives improved products, services and processes. Its objective is to ensure operations are as efficient as possible by removing waste, reducing errors and finding opportunities to add value. A business can benefit from the fruits of CI: increased productivity, engaged employees, higher profits and innovation that will lead to happier customers. In CI, changes are not exclusively pursued when there are serious issues at hand. This means that a company never stops striving for improvement. The methodology is based on customer and employee feedback, as well as enabling employees to enact changes. This does not mean every employee has to become technically skilled. However, if an employee has an idea, is there a pipeline they can follow? Will their ideas be taken seriously? Do decision-makers have access to resources and levers to support that idea?
CI culture is a game-changer. It challenges the notion that change only happens through big projects and enables anyone in the organisation to participate. In CI, an idea can be pursued to its logical conclusion, spearheaded by the people who best understand those systems and processes. Someone loading a truck, for example, has a view of the processes and logistics involved. They are more likely to spot opportunities for improvement. A CI culture offers them that capability. This is not achieved overnight. It is an ongoing effort that requires the support of the entire company, notably the leadership team. CI goals should be established and staff need to be trained to help deliver this change. If you create a culture of change and improvement, CI becomes embedded as a way of working. CI is not a magic wand. Not all challenges require a CI project, nor is it a system into which you shoehorn employees. However, it empowers employees and recognises their efforts. It needs staff to be curious and engaged. It is also very flexible: even though it is an overpowering change agent, you can pace its roll-out and adoption. A culture that invites ideas from all its people creates an engaged and passionate workforce, not to mention immense goodwill generated by the customers to whom you demonstrably listen. Do not shoot ideas down. Encourage your staff to speak up and bring their ideas to the table. Allow these ideas to have a real chance of becoming something more. CI is not a trendy fad. It is the business culture of the future.
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LITTLE GEMS
SOME RED SPINELS ARE AMONG THE MOST historic gemstones – like the Black Prince’s Ruby. It is a large, irregular cabochon stone weighing 1 170ct, set above the Cullinan II at the front of King George V of England’s Imperial State Crown, which is among the oldest of the British Crown Jewels. It dates back to 1367, when it was given to Edward of Woodstock – the “Black Prince” – and is today valued at £720 885. But it is not a ruby at all. Until 1783, all red gemstones were referred to as rubies or “balas rubies”, derived from Balascia, the ancient name for a region in central Asia. It was only then that red spinels were differentiated from rubies and it is believed that this particular stone might have originated from the historic ruby mines in present-day Tajikistan. The stone was thought to have been in the possession of a Moorish prince of Granada. A revolt was successfully countered, with the assistance of the “Black Prince”, who demanded the “ruby” in exchange for his services. It is assumed he took it back to England. But I have digressed. Spinels are found in the gemstone-bearing gravel of Sri Lanka and in a province of modern-day Afghanistan. They are common in the uppermost earth’s mantle and have a vitreous to dull lustre. Spinels are stones of various colours, although red ones are the most common. Carnelial (sometimes known as “carnelian”) is the most popular stone in the red spinel range. Carnelian and said are varieties of chalcedony, the latter slightly different and somewhat harder and darker – a semi-precious stone of a uniform red-brown. Carnelian is a brownish-red mineral; both are coloured by impurities of iron oxide. Carnelian was recovered in Crete from the Bronze Age and was mainly used in the decorative arts. Said was used in Roman times to make engraved signet rings for imprinting a seal with wax, including Assyrian cylinder seals, and was also used to engrave Egyptian and Phoenician scarabs and early Greek and Etruscan gems. My own preference for a red-tinted, semi-precious stone is garnet, which is best known for its deep red, almost burgundy shade. Most of my garnet jewellery is in this darker hue. The name comes from the old French “grenat” and the stone is often mistaken for a ruby, since it also occurs in deep red and all the
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The colours of red In Eastern cultures such as China, red is the colour of good luck. If red is your favourite colour, selecting a gemstone for a piece of jewellery offers many options. Alice Weil looks at some of them.
colours of the rainbow. Garnets take their colour from the red rocks in the areas in which they are found. They are formed under extremely high temperatures and pressure. The Mozambique variety is known for its wonderful red colours which do not become apparent until the rough has been cut and polished, but a flawless, large clear garnet is difficult to find. It is one of the few stones which remain untreated. Evidence of its durability is confirmed by the fact that a garnet necklace was found in a young man’s grave dating back to 3000 BC. A red beryl is a species of very rare red gemstone. Naturally colourless, it is tinted by the presence of other minerals. Pezzottaites are similar to red beryls, but contain lithium. They have only recently been discovered in Madagascar and
Afghanistan, where they come in raspberry red and orange shades. Also extremely rare are specimens of red fire opal, most of which emanate from Mexico. Recently discovered is andesine, of which the red rocks are reportedly enhanced, making its existence somewhat controversial. Zircons are diamond-like stones which are also found in various colours, including red. These varietals are known as hyacinths. There are real red diamonds, but these are extremely rare precious stones and very expensive. The colours of diamonds, including the red variety, are due to various impurities in the surrounding rocks. Nature has created tourmaline in many colours. A particularly beautiful gemstone is red rubelite tourmaline, which was known to the ancients of the Mediterranean area. It requires two special ingredients to achieve its colour, which can alter in different light conditions, whether daylight or artificial light. Usually it is a bold ruby-red, its name derived from the Latin “rubelius”, which means “reddish”, but it can vary from pink to shocking pink and red. However, only a few of these stones can be called rubelite or red tourmalines. They were originally brought into Europe by Dutch traders and today they are found on many continents, but fine crystal specimens are rare and can be quite expensive. Their popularity in modern times began in 1876, when a gemmologist and jeweller sold tourmaline stones to Tiffany and Co in New York.
DID YOU KNOW
Alice Weil accepted a writing position with SA Jewellery News (then known as Diamond News & SA Jeweller) in 1986.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2020
Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery. TM
TM
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