SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • May 2019 by Isikhova Media

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Celebrating 90 years of being the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only trade journal

Jewellery News

BYL Full page Diamond and Jewellery Wholesaler.pdf

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MAY 2019

BYL Full page Diamond and Jewellery Wholesaler.pdf

2019/04/30

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BYL Full page Diamond and Jewellery Wholesaler.pdf

2019/04/30

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Baselworld moving in new directions The South African Mint announces Big Five coin programme SA Jewellery News welcomes new columnist

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CANʼT SEE IT? CANʼT STEAL IT! A Smoke Screen security system is the ultimate weapon against burglary and criminal damage. It protects your property by releasing thick obscuring smoke that hides valuables and disorientates the intruder. The sudden release of smoke will shock and confuse any burglar, forcing them to retreat from the property before they can lay hands on anything of value. Smoke Screen security systems react in seconds, meaning that the burglary is over almost as soon as its begun.

CONTACT KARL VAN BREDA FOR MORE INFORMATION +27 (0)79 893 7601 • sales@smoke-screen.co.za 7 Victoria Link, Route 21 Corporate Park, Irene, Pretoria, South Africa

D R A U G THET NEVER SLEEPS THA

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INTRODUCTION TO THE SYSTEM The smoke screen concept has been in existence for decades. However, our engineering excellence with the new innovative design took the international security industry by storm, giving more businesses peace of mind. The principles of our design have always been the same; to reduce crime and prevent personal loss. Crime has taken new guises but our system have evolved to stay one step ahead. Numerous new features were incorporated into our designs, including real-time IP monitoring. ENSURING THE QUALITY OF PRODUCT AND SERVICE Concept Smoke Screen leads the field in research, design, manufacture, engineering, fitting, value and service rendering a cutting- edge defence. ULTIMATE PROTECTION – NO COMPETITION Security smoke is more efficient and practical than other security options such as shutters and grilles that commonly make our businesses look unattractive, and damage

frequently results in expensive repair costs. CCTV systems are easily thwarted by masked intruders and conventional alarms are often ignored with delays in reaction that stays a challenge. The Concept Smoke Screen system will activate and deter even well prepared criminals. The sudden release of smoke will shock and confuse any intruder, forcing them to retreat from the property before they can lay hands on anything of value. Smoke Screen system reacts in seconds, meaning the burglary or robbery is over almost as soon as it’s begun. SMALLER PARTICLE SIZES MEAN SAFER SMOKE AND NO RESIDUE Concept Smoke Screen generates classleading particles the size of 0.2- micron tested and confirmed by the Atomic Energy Authority (Aerosol Division). Verified by global health authorities, the smoke is harmless to humans and with no residue or damage guaranteed to any surface or product including electrical and computer equipment.

GOING BEYOND SECURITY SMOKE The Concept Smoke Screen system has a fast, definite shielding application for the required protective environment. INNOVATIVE MODULAR MULTI-DEFENCE TECHNOLOGY The Concept Smoke Screen range has been designed to form a permanent security solution that can be integrated into an existing intruder alarm system, or installed as a stand-alone system. Various models are available for application in the different domestic, retail, office, warehouse, commercial and business sectors. In addition, the system is enhanced by the Xenon Flash Strobe Light and S3B Sound Barrier. Overall, the security smoke screen concept is a highly effective way to prevent crime and keeps your business premises secure. If they can’t see it, they can’t steal it!

www.smoke-screen.co.za

WORK

WHY ADVERTORIALS

WHAT IS AN ADVERTORIAL?

An advertorial is an advertisement in the form of editorial content.

[Advertorial] = [Advertisement] + [editorial] Essentially, it’s your words, promoting your company or

How to put an advertorial together?

product…but it almost looks like a regular article in the

An advertorial is more detailed than an advertisement

magazine. It’s essentially an advert, that walks, talks

helping potential costumers understand more about

and acts like an editorial. And when your advertorial

your company or product.

looks like the rest of the magazine, you are able to use the connection that the magazine already has with its readers. In that way you are able to reach the readers more directly with your message. The difference between editorial and an advertorial is that regular editorial is the impartial viewpoint of the

When writing an advertorial: • Focus on good content. The key selling point of the advertorial is the credibility it has “borrowed” from the publication it appears in. • Write an engaging headline.

publication’s writer, it is not the writer’s duty to promote

• Understand the product/brand.

any one company – an advertorial or advertising does

• Use a byline and photos.

that. In an advertorial a company can make claims that is applicable to the company, something the publication’s writer cannot do in regular editorial or

• Write an advertorial people will read. • Tell a story.

news as the editorial team cannot vouch for a private company. All advertorials will carry a small strap at

Or get the capable writing team at SA Jewellery News

the top indicating that it is an advertorial.

to write it for you.

ADVERTORIALS WORK. Book yours in SA Jewellery News now. Advertorial rates are the same as SA Jewellery News’ normal advertising rates. Assistance with writing and layout will be done at no extra cost.

TO BOOK, CONTACT IAN STARNES ON TEL: (011) 883-4627 OR E-MAIL: IAN@ISIKHOVA.CO.ZA

STRAP

c ntents

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za

21. PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• 3D printing made easy • Fine welding technology taken to next level

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

23. PPC IMAGINARIUM AWARDS 2019

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Emerging Eastern Cape artist wins top accolade in 2019 PPC Imaginarium Awards

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

8. NEWS

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

• SA Jewellery News welcomes new columnist • All systems go for 2019 Lesedi La Batho annual career expo in Mabopane

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Ofﬁcer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za

• De Beers closes diamond-reselling unit

Chief Financial Ofﬁcer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

• Jewellery Biz-News app available on iOS and Android

25. INDUSTRY REPORT

Printing: Typo

• Proudly South African launches 100% local online shopping store

JCSA discloses plan of action regarding 2018 Mining Charter amendments

• UN Resolution calls for Kimberley Process reforms

26. BRAND HISTORY

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

Zenith: a different type of watch

14. BASELWORLD 2019 Baselworld moving in new directions

28. LITTLE GEMS Yellow gemstones: the beauty of topaz and amber

16. BASELWORLD 2019: COMMENT & OPINION Can a rapidly changing luxury watch market support competing shows? Jewellery Council of

South Africa

18. COINS

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

The South African Mint announces Big Five coin programme

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News

BYL Full page Diamond and Jewellery Wholesaler.pdf

2019/04/30

2:40 PM

MAY 2019

BYL Full page Diamond and Jewellery Wholesaler.pdf

2019/04/30

2:40 PM

BYL Full page Diamond and Jewellery Wholesaler.pdf

2019/04/30

2:40 PM

Baselworld moving in new directions The South African Mint announces Big Five coin programme SA Jewellery News welcomes new columnist

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On the cover B.Y.L Diamonds is one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery wholesalers and the first to launch a state-of-the-art website which allows members to view their certified diamonds, tanzanite and jewellery inventory swiftly and with ease. The website also allows agent mode to be disabled so members can show clients B.Y.L Diamonds’ products without seeing their logo. Sign up today at www.byldiamonds.com and be a part of the innovative new way of selling or contact B.Y.L Diamonds on tel: (021) 419-2000/060 801-4954 or email: orders@byldiamonds.com.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

NEWS

Jewellex Bulletin Board Placement of current/2018 exhibitors for this year’s Jewellex Africa has commenced, while placement will be opening up to the rest of trade in the upcoming weeks. Feedback from pre-event surveys showed that the top three attractions for visitors to attend Jewellex were: 1. Checking out new brands, products and services (No 1 at 82% of the responses) 2. Exhibitor Show specials (No 2 at 70% of the responses) 3. Strengthening relationships with current suppliers (No 3 at 60% of the responses) Top requests received to the question: Which specific services or products would you like to see offered at Jewellex Africa? • Tools and new machinery. • Soft and computer software • Gemstones, more sterling silver suppliers • Displays, packaging • Watches

ALL SYSTEMS GO FOR 2019 LESEDI LA BATHO ANNUAL CAREER EXPO The 2019 Lesedi la Batho annual career expo for youth in Mabopane, Tshwane, where the Pneuma Academy of Excellence will be exhibiting a stand to share opportunities in the jewellery industry with school pupils, will take

SAJN WELCOMES NEW COLUMNIST A new columnist will be joining the SA Jewellery News team next month. Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead. The topics he will address in SA Jewellery News will include strategic thinking, professional presentation skills, managing conflict, business acumen, customer excellence and leading change. Smith, who was a guest speaker at Jewellex Africa 2018, is a professional L&D lecturer, trainer, facilitator, speaker and consultant with a vast and unique array of expertise and experience in the fields of innovation, thinking, motivation, leadership, advanced selling and negotiation. After graduating from the University of Pretoria with a double major in sports science and psychology, he began his career in the healthcare industry with Pfizer Laboratories as Head of Sales Training & Development for Pfizer South & Central Africa. He then took the opportunity to start his own company, Performance Catalyst Corporation, in 2003, and also officially embarked on his professional speaking and facilitation career. Smith was also an associate of Deloitte Human Capital for a few years, where he won Associate of the Year in 2006 within the human capital business. He was also certified on all the

HCC programme offerings within Deloitte. Through his association with Business Results Group SA, he was personally trained by Edward de Bono, the world’s leading authority on lateral thinking and innovation, and has obtained international Master-level certification on De Bono’s programmes. Smith is also a guest lecturer at the Gordon Institute of Business Science at the University of Pretoria and Henley Business Schools. He has worked across the spectrum in widely diverse cultures and countries in more than 12 countries. As an avid sports and adventure enthusiast, together with his professional expertise, he provides incisive, thought-provoking insights and an understanding of what is required to create cultures of innovative thinking.

place on 15 May 2019 from 09h00-14h00 at the Odi Indoor Stadium. Expected beneficiaries at this year’s event include 800-900 high school pupils from Dr AT Moreosele Secondary School, Pelotona Secondary School, Letlotlo Secondary School and Setumo-Khiba Secondary School, as well as unemployed community members. “The event’s overall objective is to expose youngsters to vast career options and empower them to make informed decisions about their future,” explain the show organisers. Lesedi la Batho has hosted this event for

the past two years, reaching over 2 000 pupils. “It’s also been hugely successful in helping the youngsters form exciting, fruitful partnerships which enable our organisation to continue its extensive work,” add the organisers. Guest speakers at the event include the Director of the Department of Education, a representative of the Embassy of Switzerland, the Deputy Head of Mission from the Embassy of France, the MMC of the City of Tshwane Roads & Transport and Lesedi la Batho COO, Mondo Mashilo.

DE BEERS CLOSES DIAMOND RESELLING UNIT De Beers is shutting its diamond recycling division, as digital advancements in the sector have lessened the need for its services. The International Institute of Diamond Valuation (IIDV) was set up in 2016 to repurchase and recycle diamond jewellery which consumers no longer wanted. De Beers began the operation after noting the difficulty consumers faced in trying to sell their jewellery at a fair price. The venture provided a means of emphasising the

enduring value of diamonds, says De Beers. However, since that time, technology in the industry has improved and online consumerto-consumer selling platforms have become a more popular option, the company explains. “Following a number of years gaining experience in the diamond recycling sector, we’ve taken the decision to suspend the activities of the IIDV,” David Johnson, De Beers’ Senior Manager for Media & Commercial

Communications, told Rapaport News recently. While the project is no longer a viable option, it has provided De Beers with valuable insights into consumer behaviour and the needs of its retail partners, Johnson added. “We know that consumer acceptance of the consumer-to-consumer market is growing and likely to be the future of this sector. We’ll therefore continue looking for opportunities in this space,” he said. – Rapaport

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

NEWS

JEWELLERY BIZ-NEWS APP AVAILABLE ON IOS AND ANDROID Isikhova Publishing, publisher of SA Jewellery News, Jewellery Biz-News, African Odyssey and Jewellex Today, officially launched its Jewellery Biz-News app at last year’s Jewellex Africa. A first of its kind for the South African diamond and jewellery industry, it features the latest developments in the jewellery industry and related sectors, both locally and internationally. “We were overwhelmed by the industry’s response and have received enquiries about the app almost on a daily basis,” says Andrew Meyer, CEO and owner of

Isikhova Publishing. “Jewellery Biz-News is a weekly newsletter and interactive app which helps users network with international jewellers and manufacturers. It also helps them learn the latest techniques through the video platform and socialise with other jewellers worldwide through the social network platform.” For more information on the Jewellery Biz-News app and how to promote your company, products or services on it, contact Isikhova Publishing on tel: (011) 883-4627. The app is available to download on iOS and Android.

MINISTER OF MINERAL RESOURCES A NO-SHOW AT INDUSTRY DISCUSSION The Honourable Minister of Mineral Resources, Gwede Mantashe, was one of the invited panel members at the industry’s Skills Development Summit on 13 March at the Council for Scientific & Industrial Research (CSIR) Convention Centre in Pretoria. Other panel members included Mike Pneuma of the Pneuma Academy of Excellence, Mike Teke of Seriti Resources, the Minerals Council of SA and Vuyokazi Mofu of the Department of Skills Development & Research at the Mining Qualifications Authority and Axis House. Prior to the event, Pneuma invited industry members to

join the discussion titled “How We Can Apply the Solutions Together”. “We needed our entire industry represented in order to solve challenges as a team,” says Pneuma. However, participants were disappointed by the failure of the minister to attend. Of the invited panel, only Pneuma and Mofu were present on the day. “Some vital points were still addressed, including the need to change our import/ export duty laws to assist local manufacturers,” says Pneuma. “In China, for example, there

appears to be a relationship between import duties and export duties, an incentive for manufacturers who export [a 30% subsidy]. We need our government to incentivise large manufacturers who export, thus opening a space for middle-sized manufacturers to produce for local markets at competitive prices. This, in turn, opens a space for small manufacturers to grow into the middle market’s previous space, which then opens a space for micro-enterprises to grow and participate in the formal manufacturing industry.”

LEADERS TECHNOLOGY

TAKING CARE OF YOUR 3D RAPID PROTOTYPING PRINTING NEEDS – WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART EQUIPMENT! AT BEST PRICES.

PNEUMA ACADEMY OF EXCELLENCE – LEADERS IN JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING TRAINING | A2, 1st Floor, Crowthorne Centre, Corner Arthur & Main Roads, Kyalami, Midrand, Johannesburg | Tel: 011 702 1462/1891 | E-mail: info@pneumaacademy.co.za | Web: pneumaacademy.co.za

NEWS

PROUDLY SOUTH AFRICAN LAUNCHES 100% LOCAL ONLINE SHOPPING STORE Proudly South African has launched an e-shopping site, www.rsamade.co.za, in an effort to give local manufacturers and designers a new way of taking their product to market and has invited SMEs to apply.

The RSAMade site features 100% locally made items ranging from electronics and furniture to jewellery, beauty product and games. Proudly South African will vet and verify local content and quality and ensure that all

the vendor companies adhere to labour and environmental legislation. For more information or to apply, tel: (010) 300-0399 or (010) 007-0928 or e-mail: info@rsamade.co.za.

UN RESOLUTION CALLS FOR KP REFORMS The United Nations General Assembly (UNGA) has enacted a resolution calling for reforms to increase the effectiveness of the Kimberley Process (KP), the World Diamond Council (WDC) said. The European Union proposed the resolution at the assembly’s 73rd session in March, with all 193 UNGA members agreeing to it. “We’re most heartened by the adoption of the resolution by the UNGA, not only because it echoes the call for reform that we advocated together with civil society at the most recent KP plenary meeting in Brussels, but also because it was passed with the support of all UN member countries, including those in whose territories diamonds

are mined, processed, traded and sold in jewellery,” said WDC President Stephane Fischler. The move follows an appeal by Fischler for the KP to implement changes to its policy – particularly an expansion of its definition of conflict diamonds – during a special meeting at the UNGA recently. The WDC backed a proposal by Canada to that effect at the KP’s plenary meeting in November 2018. “We strongly hope that this across-the-board commitment to the continuous improvement in the integrity of the global rough diamond supply chain by all these nations will be repeated in the KP forum over the course of this year,” Fischler added. The UN’s support emphasised the WDC’s

position, the council said, adding that it hoped this was a sign of increased participation in the KP going forward. “It underscored our deeply-held belief that the KP’s role is not only defensive, but also proactive, in that it’s a catalyst for creating societies with sustainable economic opportunities,” Fischler explained. The resolution also received backing from members of the industry. “I fully support the UN and WDC’s call to strengthen the Kimberley Process,” David Bouffard, Signet Jewelers’ Vice-President of Corporate Affairs, tweeted. “Keeping the KP relevant plays a vital role in continuously improving the integrity of the global jewellery supply chain.” – Rapaport

MARKETS

Business barometer MARCH 2019 VS MARCH 2018

A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

DIAMOND DEALERS

RETAILERS

0% BETTER

100% SAME

0% WORSE

Foot traffic

0% BETTER

General sales compared with last year this time

0,5ct

BETTER

0% SAME

100%

General sales compared with last year this time

Best-selling diamond size BETTER

SAME

WORSE

WHOLESALERS

WORSE

Watch sales

0% 33.3% SAME

General sales compared with last year this time

66.6% WORSE

0% BETTER

Breakdown of retail sales

50% SAME

50% WORSE

bridal

fine jewellery

watches

44%

49%

MANUFACTURERS

33.3%

BETTER

83.3%

SAME

66.6%

(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

BETTER

16.6% BETTER

33.3% SAME

SAME

16.6%

50%

WORSE

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

Golden impressions

Tel: +27 11 418-1600 • Fax: +27 11 825-4043 • Cell: +27 82 556-7316 • E-mail: cathy@richlinesa.co.za • Website: www.richlinesa.co.za

Worldwide jewellery manufacturer and mass producer

BASELWORLD 2019

Baselworld 2019: moving in new directions

The 102nd Baselworld show opened on 21 March and the event is still setting the pace as the heart of the industry, the showcase of global brands and the Swiss luxury watch manufacturers. Martin Foster attended this year’s event. BASELWORLD PROVIDES THE ONLY REAL opportunity to see the finest of Swiss production side-by-side with the quality and volume production from Europe, China and the rest of the world. And as it happens, the 2019 winnowing of the exhibitors has produced a tighter and more manageable show. Eric Bertrand, President of the Exhibitors’ Committee, said: “This year’s event marks a fresh start for exhibitors, visitors and journalists.” Bertrand is convinced that Baselworld will remain the world’s most important meeting place for its industries, covering all facets from watches and jewellery to precious stones and suppliers. “Digital platforms can’t take the place of a physical trade show,” he added. During the subsequent panel discussion, Patek Philippe’s President Thierry Stern said: “I have a feeling that this will be a good edition. Business is picking up.” Chopard’s CEO, KarlFriedrich Scheufele, confirmed: “Baselworld has done its homework. We’re heading in the

right direction. A personal encounter can’t be replaced by digital formats.” Jean-Daniel Pasche, President of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH, is optimistic about the future, based on solid facts and figures: ‘The Swiss watch industry’s exports increased 6,3% in 2018. This is likely to exert a positive impact on the trade show.” So now another Baselworld has come and gone in the midst of a torrent of industry speculation about its very survival.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

BASELWORLD 2019

First and foremost, Baselworld is a trade show – the most important one for the watch industry, where brands, buyers and the press congregate for a week to review new products and give them the publicity they deserve – even if some of the brands’ policies are a little ungracious to those global resellers who’ve served them well over many years. There are many ingrained problems which the event faces, most intractably the political intransigence from competing (Swiss) interests. The SIHH has made superficial moves of contrition, but it will take more than playing with diary dates for the politics to recede, as it should have done 20 years ago. The SIHH would do well to forget the original tiff and get back under the Baselworld show umbrella. There are now empty halls begging for useful occupants – and what a wonderful opportunity to slash exhibitor costs! The commercial interests in Basel and the MCH Baselworld management also need to seriously rectify hotel and restaurant gouging and exhibitor costs before anybody believes there’s a new outlook and recovery prospect for the show. Baselworld attempted to address this for the 2019 show, with only limited success. It was a brave and overdue initiative, but was not really taken seriously by the hotels. For decades, the event has been taken for granted in the area as the local cash (Top left): On stage at the opening press conference on 21 March were Interim CEO of the MCH Group Baselworld, Hans-Kristian Hoejsgaard, Rolex’s Eric Bertrand, outgoing President of the Exhibitors’ Committee, Giuseppe Picchiotti of Picchiotti Jewellery), Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe), Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, CEO of Chopard, Michel Loris-Melikoff, MCH of Baselworld and Jean-Daniel Pasche, President of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH and moderator of the Baselworld Conference. (Far left): Patek Philippe has introduced a new complication – the weekly calendar, a semi-integrated mechanism displaying the week number (in addition to the day and date). The brand has also developed a completely new self-winding movement, Cal 26-330 S C J SE, incorporating several technical innovations, particularly with regard to the winding mechanism. The new calibre, with a sapphire crystal case-back, makes its début in the new Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref 5212A-001, which is also the only steel Calatrava in Patek Philippe’s regular collection. The sleek case stands out with refined construction, screw-on bezel and two-tier lugs. Expect to pay about US$35 000. (Left): Citizen has actively pursued the challenge of superior precision since the founding of the company in 1918. The brand produced its first quartz watch accurate to approximately 10 seconds per month in 1973. In 1975 it produced the Crystron Mega, the world’s first quartz watch accurate to approximately three seconds per year. This year, in honour of its centenary, Citizen has unveiled the Calibre 0100, an Eco-Drive movement with annual accuracy of approximately one second – the world’s most precise timepiece. The Calibre 0100 operates autonomously, not relying on time signals from radio towers or GPS satellites. It costs in the region of US$16 800 in white gold.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

Baselworld has done its homework. We’re heading in the right direction. A personal encounter can’t be replaced by digital formats. cow, with visitors having to comply because they have had no other choice. Having said that, there are very strong reasons why Baselworld should survive the current turmoil and the restructuring task falls to Michel Loris-Melikoff, the new Managing Director. These very strong reasons have nothing to do with dividends to MCH shareholders and everything to do with the high standing of the Swiss luxury industry among the well-heeled buyers of the world. It is only through this industry recognition that there is support for some of the astronomic sums buyers pay for watches from a trusted industry with quality and class. Would a buyer be more likely to spend, say, US$50 000 on a high-class watch made in outer Mongolia than on one made in Switzerland? But Switzerland’s credibility and reputation are being much more closely scrutinised these days – and the outcomes are not always positive. “Made in Switzerland” might not have the same credence it used to have. In a world beset by political cold war posturing, corruption and mistrust, the coming years may see cashed-up buyers bypassing luxury timepieces. There are distortions in the market that make long-term assessments somewhat pointless – for example, given the Brexit uncertainty, there are large stockpile orders from UK resellers, who have reason to believe prices will spike once the political divorce is achieved. It is important that Baselworld’s reconstruction is successful, as many smaller brands rely on it for taking orders for their yearly production programme. So we all wish Loris-Melikoff the very best in his endeavours to address the depth of these problems. It will take strength and determination. Baselworld 2020 will re-open its doors on 21 March 2020 immediately after the SIHH Geneva Salon during the previous week.

(Above): From Mattheus Naeschke comes a spectacular large organ clock with 100 days’ power reserve, barrel and fusée, Naeschke escapement with round ruby pallets, sterling silver chapter ring with hand engraving and gilded movement sitting on four solid columns. The organ, which releases music on the hours, is in the base of the clock and constructed within a solid frame of three main brass plates and long steel pillars. There are 26 wooden organ pipes in the confined square, flat base of this clock. The organ plays six original compositions of Joseph Haydn, each lasting about 30 seconds, and performs 15 times on a full wind. (Left): Rolex has extended its Yacht-Master range with the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. With a new diameter of 42 mm in 18ct white gold, the watch has a bi-directional rotatable bezel and a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in matt black ceramic. The Oysterflex bracelet has an Oysterlock safety clasp in 18ct white gold, with the addition of the Rolex Glidelock extension system. The Oyster Perpetual YachtMaster 42 is fitted with calibre 3235, Rolex’s new-generation movement with the new Chronergy escapement, guaranteeing a power reserve of 70 hours. (Below): Jacob & Co presented a new addition to its range of complications with the Astronomia Maestro. Its rotating structures engage three elevated spiral gongs for its minute repeater carillon to chime out the hours, quarters and minutes. The background to this mechanical mastery is pure aventurine, giving the impression of a deep blue starry sky, with a handpainted Milky Way and planets as details. The timepiece is Manual Winding Cal JCFM06 with 608 components, featuring moon-phase and date. In its gravitational triple-axis tourbillon the first cage rotates in 60 seconds, the second cage in 90 seconds, while the magnesium globe rotates in 40 seconds (weight 0,2 g). A hand-painted astronaut rotates in 40 seconds (weight 0,2 g). Other features include a minute repeater, 50 hours’ power reserve, 55 jewels and a 50 mm case. The timepiece is a limited edition of 18 pieces.

BASELWORLD 2019: COMMENT & OPINION

Courtesy of Baselworld

Can a rapidly changing luxury watch market support competing shows? Baselworld is navigating the shifting sands of evolution and its very raison d’être is under global scrutiny. As a result, it is enduring a fractured and partisan review of what it stands for, writes Martin Foster. THE EVENT’S NEW MANAGING DIRECTOR, Michel Loris-Melikoff, was introduced as a man with many years of experience in event planning and implementation. He is therefore a good choice to rebuild Baselworld loyalty and can ignore the recalcitrant Swatch Group. Nick Hayek can throw his toys out of the cot as far as he likes. Breitling has appeared nervous and stressed for the past year or so. At the time of writing, it announced a trial separation from Baselworld in 2010, but is keeping its option open to return. In a further new development, Rolex sister brand Tudor will showcase itself at its own stand in Hall 1.0 in 2020 and Rolex will expand its stand to include the previous Tudor area. However, special diplomacy will be needed to retain the loyalty of the remaining majors of Hall 1.0 (Patek Philippe, Chopard and the LVMH Group brands: Bvlgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith). Without that loyalty, the ongoing prospects for Baselworld will be dramatically compromised. Loris-Melikoff has proposed that three years be permitted for the restructure of Baselworld.

This will allow a deeper understanding of the issues at play. Moreover, the cost of the planned changes will be very high if there is any correlation with the current spray of promotional buzzwords and wordy platitudes. Thus Baselworld’s Phoenix moment will depend on time, money, informed debate and high flexibility from the event, the exhibitors and the supportive press. It is critically important for Baselworld to focus and survive this cyclic crisis. Many of the medium and smaller Baselworld exhibitors, in particular, rely heavily on the event for exhibiting for their annual production orders. By comparison, the SIHH is a minor distraction pursuing a political show-pony existence. Even in reduced circumstances, Baselworld presents over 15 times the number of exhibitors who attend the SIHH. Now that the two shows are together on the calendar, there will be a logical defection of specialist exhibitors from the SIHH to Baselworld, not only on the basis of upfront rental costs, but for other, more potent reasons as well. Today, in stark contrast to the SIHH, MCH Baselworld is actively promoting the public relations exposure of its exhibitors. Baselworld also properly recognises the supporting press representatives who have been an integral part of the promotional scenario over many years. After all, this is why the brands exhibit and trade fairs exist. It is the primary reason an exhibitor would exercise sensible choices in the fluid world of these two competing shows. In 2020, both major exhibitors are forming the “Swiss-Shows Week” – so why, for example, would anyone stay in the SIHH’s Carré des Horlogers when the cost is significantly higher and particularly when the

costs of its press and publicity are pumped up by its synthetic pretentiousness? This SIHH film-set environment was originally a talking point, a focus of difference from Baselworld. Now it is a millstone around the neck of the exhibitors as the cost of annual construction rises way above equivalent exposure in Baselworld, where public relations policies at least support the very reasons for exhibiting in the first place. In her opening address of the SIHH in January, Fabienne Lupo, CEO of organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, announced a concession to industry solidarity by aligning the calendar dates of Baselworld and the SIHH, stating: “Our one objective must be to serve the greater good of the industry.” A noble sentiment. Might it not be better demonstrated, however, by bringing the two shows under one umbrella, rather than superficially fooling around with the dates of the two events? Baselworld currently has unused halls, any one of which would easily adapt to the exclusive use of the SIHH. This would enable the latter to make big cost savings in an environment of unity – a feature of the MCH Basel management umbrella which SIHH imprudently abandoned back in 1991. Of course, there are always political problems. But this is an ideal – and, perhaps, a unique – opportunity to mend rifts. This is the time to set aside petty historical differences and support the positive gains for all stakeholders. To avoid becoming irrelevant, the SIHH should return to the umbrella of the Baselworld show and become part of openly reuniting the Swiss industry. If it does not, “the greater good of the industry” is merely a hollow phrase.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

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COINS

SA Mint announces Big Five coin programme The SA Mint, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank, has officially announced a multi-year, fine silver Big Five coin programme featuring wildlife synonymous with southern Africa – the lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and buffalo. The exquisite range will see each of these majestic creatures issued on a collectable silver coin. THE BIG FIVE COIN PROGRAMME SERIES consists of a Brilliant Uncirculated-quality coin struck from 999,9 fine silver and a proofquality version of the same. During March this year, a 24ct 1 oz gold coin, a 1 oz fine platinum coin and two combination sets were introduced. Adding diversity to this series is the 1 oz platinum coin, a metal with which the SA Mint launched the limited mintage platinum Krugerrand in 2017 to mark the iconic coin’s 50th anniversary. Of the two combination sets, one houses the maiden 1 oz silver proof-quality Elephant coin, with a 1 oz fine silver proof Krugerrand bearing a special elephant mint-mark in homage to the new wildlife series. The second set features a single 1 oz fine silver elephant coin and a 1 oz gold proof Krugerrand. The demand for silver coins has grown steadily over the years, thanks partly to its affordability. Silver, which has both real and numismatic value, has contributed to the success of the SA Mint’s collectable coins and was the first-choice metal to showcase the Big Five. The first coin in the series, launched at the World Money Fair in Berlin in early February, features a design of the mighty elephant filling up much of the surface area on the obverse side, with its face accentuated and tusks bordering the top part. Encircling the elephant at the bottom, below the tusks, are the words: “South Africa” and “Big 5 2019”, with SA’s

national coat-of-arms in the centre. The reverse of the elephant coin bears the ingenious design of two halves of the elephant’s face, side by side. The ears, tusks, eyes and part of the nose on each of these halves are prominent in this design, which is meant to depict one complete face when two coins are placed next to each other. When multiple coins are placed next to each other, a herd is formed. African elephants (Loxodonta africana) are the largest land mammals on earth. Sadly, their prominent ivory tasks have become a valuable commodity in certain parts of the world, resulting in a rise in the illegal hunting of the mammals. Furthermore, in recent decades, habitat loss has led to a dramatic decline in their populations. While it is almost impossible to reverse this situation, as people go after fewer resources – encroaching on elephants’ natural environment – a global ban on ivory trade has done much to reduce the senseless slaughter of these magnificent creatures. “Our Big Five coin programme celebrates Africa’s wildlife and is a tribute to the dedication of institutions and individuals who relentlessly fight against the odds to preserve and protect wildlife and their habitats,” says Tumi Tsehlo, MD of the SA Mint. The coins will be launched bi-annually, with a new animal every six months. In August this year, it will feature the king of the jungle – the lion. “We see the new coin programme as a

reminder to do more for conservation. A lack of effort might mean the icons of Africa, the last natural refuge for wild animals, will only be seen on silver,” says Tsehlo. “The series celebrates Africa’s unique natural heritage by embodying the Big Five and we hope that the coins will see the animals living and thriving in the future. With their limited mintage and relevance in today’s times, the Big Five coins are must-haves for numismatists, nature-lovers, safari tourists and just about anyone who appreciates exceptional art and design.”

The SA Mint is the continent’s leading manufacturer of legal coin tender, as well as commemorative and rare collectable coins. With over 100 years’ experience in supplying symbols of value to the African and global markets, it prides itself on delivering products that represent its commitment to uniquely African design and supreme craftsmanship. It collaborates closely with its customers to develop distinct and durable monetary products that capture and preserve the heritage and pride of a nation. The SA Mint is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank (SARB), established in accordance with the SARB Act.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

PRODUCTS, TOOLS & TECHNOLOGIES

Fine welding technology taken to next level The PUK welding microscope SM5.1 offers high-quality microscope optics with 10 times’ magnification and individual setting which establishes the prerequisites for precise work. The bright PUK eye protection system with integrated LED lighting and four adjustable brightness levels offers optimum illumination of the working area. Simply moving the handpiece holder away from the field of view increases the action area of the SM5.1, turning it into a multipurpose microscope. Padded hand supports simplify guidance of the workpiece for fatigue-free and ergonomic operation. Height and tilt adjustment provide optimum workplace comfort, while a spacer sleeve ensures the correct distance between the objective lens and the workpiece. The retaining clip on the microscope fastens the connecting hose in place.

3D printing made easy B9 Creations’ 550 model 3D printer is suitable for bigger items and works on a larger-build table, while the 530 model delivers detailed resolution with thin walls and small holes for a smooth surface finish. Installation and training are undertaken by Cape Watch and are included in the cost. “We undergo regular training with B9Creations directly,” says Tennille Hoge of Cape Watch. “After-sales support and service are in-house, from our technical trained professionals. After six months the customer should know how to operate the 3D printer, so support continues in breakdown and troubleshooting, while any further training is still free, but online.” It has no annual software licence fee and Dura-Vat covers 600 prints. B9Creations supplies two Dura-Vats free in the initial printer order. At US$0,06 cents per print, B9Creations claws back on its perceived higher upfront price tag and awards these hidden savings back into the customer’s pocket for every additional print saving. “The opposite applies to the cheap upfront business cost model, where competitor printer companies seek to recover their profits from revenue stream derived off their customer input costs at a premium on operational consumables and licensing fees,” explains Hoge. Three outcomes favour the B9Creations business model: firstly, it notably reduces its perceived original offering, where the cheaper competition printers become more

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

expensive over time. Secondly, B9Creations customers benefit continuously from greater quality in overall finish and greater detail in resolution, with fewer consumable costs. Thirdly, the client is saved hidden intangible additional labour costs attributable to less time spent on final finishing time when superior cast finishes result off its prints. A synopsis of annual running cost would show the following result: ($4 250 per year/B9C Printer) vs ($8 334/ supplier X) – a difference of $4 084 saving (R57 000) using a 14:1 exchange rate. Therefore, B9Creations’ return on investment translates into a pay-back period ranging from 12-18 months (based on output of 20 rings per week) and becomes the cheaper asset. When researching the market for a 3D printer, customers are advised to inform themselves comprehensively about pay-back periods. 3D printing time is 45 minutes, or 15 minutes for a prototype which saves cost inputs if CAD design errors occur. The quality of CAD design will affect all printers equally. Developed with jewellers in mind, the core series prints ring in 45 minutes at speeds four times faster than the industry average, which means less time at the bench and more time where it matters. “Its user-friendly interface and no software fees or calibration make it the perfect fit for 3D printing among beginners and experts alike,” says Hoge.

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STAND OF THE YEAR This year’s Jewellex Africa Stand of the Year overall winner was awarded to Metal Concentrators (Stand Number E5) while Versitrade (Stand Number E6) was awarded the Standard Package winner. Rowan Jacobson, Chairman of the Jewellex Africa committee, announced the winners at the show.

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A round table discussion on the subject of synthetic diamonds vs natural diamonds took place at 14h00 yesterday at the Metcon coffee shop. Ernie Blom of Blom Diamonds and President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, renowned local jewellery designer Kevin Friedman and Chris van Rensburg of Studio C and Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa led the discussion while Andrew Meyer, CEO of Isikhova Publishing and Communications and publisher of SA Jewellery News, served as facilitator.

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PPC IMAGINARIUM AWARDS 2019

A BASA AWARD-WINNING PROGRAMME, the PPC Imaginarium Awards is the country’s most supportive art and design competition, with over R500 000 in prizes awarded across six categories – Sculpture, Industrial Design, Film, Fashion, Jewellery and Architecture – to standout entries that express innovation using PPC cement. Eastern Cape artist Sonwabiso Ngcai secured both the Sculpture Category prize and the Overall Winner ranking for a thought-provoking entry which provides an analogy for the way religious cults lure their congregants. “An isigu, in traditional African society, is a contraption used by young boys to hunt birds,” he explains. “It consists of a downward-facing bowl, with one side held open by an upright stick that has a string tied to it, with a few pieces of grain scattered underneath the bowl. Lured by the promise of food, a bird enters the area. The string is tugged and the bird is captured. In this piece, the use of this simple, but effective hunting tool is an analogy for the entrapment of people by religious cults. “In SA, recent exploitation by such cults has included feeding vulnerable congregants snakes and grass, making them drink petrol, sexual abuse, bullying and victimisation – all in the name of faith,” he adds. “Baited by the expectation of salvation and often seduced by promises of wealth, people are increasingly falling into religious cults. The use of concrete refers to the perceived power of faith and how congregants find strength in the Bible. The construction of the trap alludes to temporary church pop-up structures such as tents or rented buildings that appear in strategic places.” Ngcai probes an aspect of contemporary South African society by means of a skilfully executed visual metaphor. Other work in the Sculpture Category was categorised by the same desire to interrogate the contemporary African condition. Runner-up in the Sculpture Category was Durban-based artist Kenneth Shandu for a work depicting the plight of the homeless on the streets of Durban. A Special Commendation went to Prudence Magagula for her exploration of gender violence and sexism experienced by female mineworkers. The winner of this year’s jewellery category was Khanya Mthethwa for his Day Zero reversible pendant design, while Joani Groenewald was runner-up for her K3 – Keree 3 design. The overall winner, category winners, runners-up and special commendations were chosen from an unprecedented number of 67 final-

Eastern Cape artist wins top accolade in 2019 PPC Imaginarium Awards

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

At a gala event held at UJ Gallery on 11 April 2019, emerging Eastern Cape artist Sonwabiso Ngcai was announced the overall winner of the 2019 PPC Imaginarium Awards, taking home R150 000 in cash for his sculpture Isigu (The Snare).

ists. In the past five years of the competition, the number of finalists selected has not exceeded 50 entries on average per year. According to the Director of the awards, Daniel van der Merwe of PPC Ltd, “the increasing level of the work entered and the expanding number of finalists points to the momentum the competition has gained since inception. We commend all our entrants on their fantastic work and extend our hearty congratulations to the winners.” The PPC Imaginarium Awards grew out of the previous long-standing PPC Young Concrete Sculptors competition. Together, the two awards programmes constitute a 27-year legacy and investment in the arts for PPC Ltd. In 2014, the company extended its existing sculpture, fine art and industrial design competition (The Young Concrete Sculptor Awards) to include the creative disciplines of jewellery, fashion and film. As a result, the PPC Imaginarium Awards came into being. The ambitious artand-design contest gives emerging artists and designers the chance to showcase their talents through the medium of concrete.

INDUSTRY REPORT

ON 13 MARCH, AT A JCSA BOARD MEETING, A recommendation was tabled from legal counsel to hold a workshop for all affected manufacturing jewellers, hosted by Africa’s largest law firm, Edward Nathan Sonnenbergs (ENS). On 27 March, ENS facilitated a videoconferencing presentation which was held in Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban and attended by 70 manufacturing members. The presentation began with a brief background on the legislation applicable to the manufacturing industry. It then covered the procedure to follow in what is perceived to be erroneous application of the Mining Charter policy document. A copy of the presentation can be found on the following link: www. jeweller y.org.za /ens-work shop -preciousmetals-act-and-mining-charter/. Briefly, the legal challenge will be based around the terminology in the Precious Metals Act and the Mining Charter: “… the SA Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR) to have regard to the requirements…”, which suggests that it is a recommendation and not an enforceable requirement. As per the amended Charter of 2018 and the revised thresholds of R1 million and above, manufacturers will be required to acquire a 26% black shareholding in their manufacturing concern. Once substantive evidence is gathered, senior counsel will formulate the legal opinion which the JCSA – together with legal representation by senior counsel and ENS – will then present to the Minister of Mineral Resources (DMR). Should

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

JCSA discloses plan of action regarding 2018 Mining Charter amendments The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), on behalf of its members, is consulting with legal counsel and deliberating with its board over taking legal action against the Department of Mineral Resources (DMR) on the relevance of the application of the Mining Charter to the jewellery manufacturing industry. Legal counsel is of the opinion that the SA Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator is erroneously applying the provisions in the Precious Metals Act (PMR) and the 2018 Mining Charter. the JCSA fail to obtain a negotiated resolve from the DMR, an application to the High Court seeking a declarator will follow on the above terminology. The JCSA embarked on this process to obtain, firstly, approval from the council’s board and thereafter a mandate from the 70 members who attended the video-conference to continue with the above process. The costs

will have to be borne by the industry. The council’s board has approved funding, with the provision of a rand-for-rand match from members. “This requested contribution isn’t obligatory, but essential for the process to proceed,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. Members have been invited to contact Lorna Lloyd to discuss challenges/issues they may be experiencing in their permit renewals.

BRAND HISTORY

A different type of watch

The word “zenith” signifies the highest pinnacle of achievement – and this was the aim of the founder of the eponymous brand

THE WATCH BRAND WAS FOUNDED IN 1865 by a 22-year-old watch apprentice in Le Locle, Switzerland, but did not assume this name until 1911. His name was Georges Favre-Jacot and he produced a very different type of timepiece, which first appeared as a pocket chronograph. The manufacturing facility grew steadily throughout the early 20th century. With record-breaking precision, Calibre 5911k was introduced to power marine chronometers, table clocks and pocket watches in the mid-20th century. It was named El Primero, the heart of which was visible through a purpose-built dial opening, while the movement was capable of measuring one-10th of a second. It was the first integrated automatic chronograph. During the 1970s, with the introduction of the quartz movement – which created a crisis in the industry – it was decided by the then management of the brand to produce only watches with a quartz movement in order to remain competitive. However, this was not possible, as an audacious watchmaker named Charles Vermont – who feared such a move would destroy the company’s image – hid the crucial plans and tools required to produce the brand’s mechanical calibres. He kept these documents and materials until 1984. By then, there was renewed interest in mechanical and the brand and the secret were revealed, so Zenith resumed producing mechanical watches with its signature El Primo calibres – first used by Rolex in 1988 to power the Daytona chronograph. It remained Rolex’s choice until 2000. It was then acquired by the LVMH Group and today remains one of the few Swiss watches to produce its movements in-house, the most notable of which was El Primo. Zenith claims to have developed over 600 variations and filed over 300 patents for engineering watchmaking marvels throughout its history. It has also re-

ceived 2 333 timekeeping precision award since 1905 – more than any other watchmaker Today, after minimum awareness in the market as a brand for connoisseurs, Zenith – a sister brand to Hublot and TAG Heuer – is seeking a makeover. It is introducing new shapes, new movements and new technologies. There will be two lines: the traditional and the modern. It is a brand with a long history, but requires modernisation to appeal to the younger generation without changing its DNA. The brand had a small exhibit at SIHH this year and released its new offerings at Baselworld 2019, which included two Pilot models and three new Zenith Defy Classics entirely in ceramic (except for their rubber straps), which increases their resistance to scratches. These ceramic models offer style-conscious urbanites a whole new take on the iconic zenith openwork dial. The Defy Cit is the ultimate expression of neofuturistic watchmaking, according to the brand. It pairs rose gold with ultra-light titanium. The new blue Defy model is the most colourful of the ceramic case versions. There are also ceramic versions in black and white, each with a modified Elite movement and a ceramic case. In addition, there is a dressier version in a steel and rose gold and a combination of a bronze case with a blue dial and a unique 45 mm model with a black dial. An aged stainless steel model of 45 mm is a low-key version. Future plans include the release of a very special anniversary collection of three watches based on El Primera, with a fourth empty box which provides an opportunity to buy a unique El Primero, of which there will be only 50 boxed sets for sale. Each of these includes a special VIP tour of Zenith and a hotel stay.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

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LITTLE GEMS

Yellow is the most luminous of all colours and the one that captures our attention most. It signifies happiness, optimism, sunshine, warmth, spring and daffodils, although it has different meanings in most cultures. Alice Weil looks at two gems which are usually associated with this vibrant shade. ONE NORMALLY THINKS OF topaz as a yellow gemstone, its colour the result of minerals in the structure of the crystalline form or matrix. The name “topaz” was used to refer to many yellow gemstones during the Middle Ages, but this is not so in modern times. It is generally regarded as a gem of desirable hues such as blue, red, green, orangebrown, pink, purple and grey. It can even be multi-coloured. This doubtless makes for confusion when distinguishing these stones from similar gems. Topaz, however, is fairly common and relatively inexpensive when found in large flawless crystals. The Smithsonian Institute in Washington DC owns cut topazes of several carats each. In 1964, remarkable blue specimens were located in the Ukraine weighing around 100 kg. The name “topaz” is derived from the Old French term “topace”. The Greek equivalent, “topazos”, was not really known in the classical era, but the stone was believed to be found on a legendary island in the Red Sea. Colours are varied, the most predominant being yellow with a reddish tint. The most valuable is the pink to reddish orange, its colouring agent usually lime and chrome. The stone has a vitreous lustre. During the 18th century the most valuable topaz mine was in Saxony (Germany), but today the most important supplier is Minas Gerais in Brazil. Other areas are in Afghanistan, Australia, Myanmar, China, Japan, Madagascar, Mexico, Namibia, Nigeria, Pakistan, the Urals in Russia, Zimbabwe, Sri Lanka, Scotland and Cornwall in England. The Brazilian stones are known as imperial topaz and are a strong golden-yellow. Those favoured for use in jewellery are the blue variety.

The sunshine colour The stones are usually step-cut or scissorscut, while colourless or white and multicoloured ones are brilliant-cut. The cabochon is usually reserved for those with inclusions. Topaz measures 8 on the Mohs scale and is the birthstone of those born in November. Amber, too, is usually associated with the colour yellow. It is not a gem in the usual sense of the word – it originates as a soft, sticky, fossilised substance and, because of this, often contains animal or plant material. It is used for jewellery as well as decorative objects and its name is derived from Latin, French and Arabic words in the 14th century. It also refers to Baltic amber from the 13th century. It does, however, have a history dating back to the fourth century BC, when it was washed up on the shores of an island in northern Europe. There were well-established trade routes connecting the richest sources of amber in the Baltic to the Mediterranean, where the people of ancient southern Italy were working it. Historically, the west coast of Königsberg in Prussia was the world’s leading source of amber. About 90% of extractable amber is still located in that area, which became part of Russia in 1946. It is also fished for on the coast of the Baltic Sea, where winter storms can throw out nuggets close to Gdansk in Poland. The most

prized is transparent, in contrast to the very common cloudy and opaque material. Amber appears in a large range of hues, from whitish to pale lemon yellow, as well as the yellow and orange-brown with which it is usually associated. The yellow variety is hard and translucent, with the brown being fossil resin from evergreen trees – such as species of pines and other conifers – but there are also other types of resins. Relics of animals or plant matter can occur as inclusions trapped within the amber. Pieces are torn from the sea floor and are cast up by the waves. These are collected by hand-dredging or diving. Elsewhere, it is mined both in open works and underground galleries. When heated gradually in an oil bath, amber becomes soft and pliable. After additional treatment, the product is used for jewellery, as well as articles used for smoking and the mouthpieces of musical blown instruments. Amber has been used for jewellery since the Stone Age. Ornaments have been found dating from Mycenaean tombs, as well as elsewhere in Europe. It was believed to have healing properties and was used as folk medicine and in perfumery to create artificial “musk”. When burnt, it gives off a distinctive pinewood fragrance.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – MAY 2019

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