SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • September 2022

SEPTEMBER 2022 jewellerynews SA Gemstone sector set to boom WE LOOK AT Who has their paws in the oil jar?Gina White on pearls and jewellery 94 celebratingyears COLOURED GEMSTONES & PEARLS The six Cs of coloured gems

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ShopJewellex 2022 launches BLACK FRIDAY WEEKEND for ONLY two days! yourShopcasebrandnow! A weekend of retail wowness! Boost your bottom line in two days Get face-to-face with a huge retail market Sell to excited and motivated consumers THE consumer shopping experience of the year and YOUR golden opportunity to sell your collections directly to the public. It only happens once a year! Prime consumer location in the Ballroom at Montecasino Black Friday weekendSaturday 26 & Sunday 27 November Members cannon-membersandparticipate Book your booth! Email: jewellex@jewellery.org.za | Tel: +27 (0)11 484-5528

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types of Gemstones which

LOCAL

CELEBRATING ITS 42ND ANNIVERSARY THIS year, E.G.L South Africa first opened its doors in 1980 as an independent Gemmological Laboratory specialising in Diamond, Gemstone and Jewellery identification, grading and certification.Situatedin the Paragon Building on Kramer Road in Bedfordview, it is one of SA’s leading and most trusted gemmological laboratories. Equipped with both the knowledge and spe cialised equipment to detect treatments and laboratory-grown diamonds and gemstones, E.G.L South Africa’s staff are all proudly South African and include qualified gemmologists and graders with over 25 years’ experience in the industry. Contact E.G.L SA on: Phone: +27 11 334 4527 Cell: +27 83 656 Email: admin@egl.co.za Proud members of the Jewellery Council South Africa SOUTH 100% South African BACK In March 2020, its Managing Director Brenda Rosenthal secured the business from its overseas shareholders and, for the past two years, it is proud to be a 100% South Afri can-owned business. “We are here to serve the gems and jewel lery industry and above all, the consumer,” says Rosenthal. “All our services are done in the laboratory and done carefully, timeously and with efficiency.” choose E.G.L

AFRICA

Why

all Precious and Semi-Precious Gemstones,

DIAMOND CERTIFICATION Grading and certification of all Diamonds, including Fancy Coloured Diamonds and Diamond Jewellery GEMSTONE CERTIFICATION We are

E.G.L SA’S SERVICES INCLUDE: able to grade and certify all include as well as

specific Tanzanite & Moissanite TREATEDLABORATORY-GROWNreportsANDDIAMONDCERTIFICATIONWearefullyequippedandqualifiedtodetectalltypesoflaboratory-grown,colourtreatedandClarityEnhancedDiamonds ADVERTORIAL SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 20224

of

E.G.L

South Africa?

owned business LET’S

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022

Lulo mine in Angola • GIA launches Source Verification Service 18 38

Image courtesy Gemfields

According to newly released data from Future Market Insights, the gemstone market is estimated at US$30 779,1 million in 2022 and is projected to reach US$53 146,2 million by 2032. The market grew at a compound annual growth rate of 5,6% from 2017-2021. The gemstone market holds a 50% share in the overall gems and jewellery market.

21. MONTHLY EDUCATIONAL INSERT

EXPECTING MASSIVE GROWTH

6 CONTENTS contents

launched by

•

16. COLOURED GEMSTONE MARKET

18. THE SIX CS FOR MEASURING AND DEFINING COLOURED GEMS

30. FANCY COLOUR DIAMOND PRICES KEEP RISING The Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF) has announced the results of the Q2 2022 Fancy Color Diamond Index. The price rise in all colours and sizes of fancy colour diamonds continued, with an average increase of 0,8%.

•

10. NEWS HB Antwerp hosts hackathon to job opportunities in Botswana Virtual try-on of rings Get-Diamonds Swiss & Prins Diamonds 40 Vicenzaoro from Lucapa’s

foster talent and

watch exports rise • Prins

September • 170ct pink diamond recovered

celebrates

•

years in business • Top international jewellery brands at

Diamonds have traditionally been measured and defined by the four Cs. However, coloured gems have so many subtle features that Gemfields has identified six Cs, adding character and certification to the standard colour, cut, clarity and carat. As these rules cannot capture emotion, Gemfields believes it is acceptable, and even encouraged, to differ from the experts when it comes to personal preference.

An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of SA initiative –extracts from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook.

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

Among all gemstones, pearls are the only ones formed within living creatures. Women have always been fascinated by their various shapes and colours, as well as the rich lore associated with them. The modernday affordability and versatility of pearls have made them an important part of most women’s wardrobes and thus an essential component of a jeweller’s inventory.

Today, many contemporary jewellers can be credited with reinventing the perception of pearls for a new demographic of luxury consumers with their inspired designs. Renowned jewellery designer Gina White of Johannesburg-based Jupiter’s Jungle is not only a rough diamond analyst, but has also developed a very personal approach to working with pearls.

34. GINA WHITE ON PEARLS, JEWELLERY AND WHAT INSPIRES HER CREATIVITY

41. STONE ROYALTYOF The September birthstone is sapphire – a gem which has been cherished for thousands of years. Although the term “sapphire” usually refers to the blue variety of corundum (ruby is the red variety), this birthstone comes in a rainbow of other colours too.

33. WHO HAS THEIR PAWS IN THE OIL JAR?

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2022. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

EGL SA has seen an increase in oil-filled tanzanite being submitted to the laboratory over the past year. Kaylan Khourie, FGA gemmologist and laboratory gemmologist at EGL SA, strongly advises those in the trade to be aware of this.

36. THE GLORIOUS PEARL

7 CONTENTS

The popularity of coloured gemstones and pearls continues to offer jewellers a spectrum of possibilities. What is next for pearls and the world of coloured gemstones? Could their growing popularity see them eventually surpass that of diamonds? This issue of SAJN shares fascinating insights into this realm. The appreciation of coloured gemstones dates back centuries, when they were worn for their talismanic properties. Roman emperors and empresses wore them to cement their status, power and wealth. However, the discovery of diamonds in South Africa in the 1870s, followed by powerful marketing campaigns, saw the likes of emeralds and rubies usurped by diamonds as the ultimate symbols of beauty, love and wealth. The past decade has seen an astonishing resurgence in the popularity of coloured gemstones, though, and it seems their rise in popularity will continue apace. Future Market Insights, an ESOMARcertified market research organisation and a member of the Greater New York Chamber of Commerce, predicts massive growth in this market for the next 10 years. We look at the reasons for this growth rate, as well as some new advances in the market and some of the key players in the world of coloured gemstones.

This issue is also dedicated to a gemstone whose magic and beauty have always intrigued me. Treasured for their timeless elegance, lustre and iridescent multi-tonal colours, pearls are one of the oldest, most desired and most spectacular gemstones in the world and have been a favourite of high-end jewellers and collectors alike for centuries. Formed differently from most gems, a pearl is an organic creation found in the sea, a natural phenomenon that occurs as part of the defence mechanism of a mollusc shell. Coming in all shapes, sizes and colours, pearls have shown themselves to be remarkably versatile in jewellery design and they have a rich and fascinating history. My own love affair with pearls started when I was a young girl. My mother loved pearls and often reminded me that they completed an outfit. Today I always wear pearls (in earrings, a bracelet or strands), whether I am going out, on holiday or just at home with my family. They are my go-to pieces of jewellery for all occasions. We hope you enjoy this issue (and our new look!).

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: E-mail:084-261-1805adri@isikhova.co.za

Adri Viviers

Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: E-mail:083-450-6052jenny@isikhova.co.za

Editor: Adri Viviers

Advertising Sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052

Cornelissen

Distribution: Ruth

Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

ONnoteTHECOVER

SEPTEMBER 2022 jewellerynews SA Gemstone sector set to boomWE LOOK AT Who has their paws in the oil jar?Gina White on pearls and jewellery 94cel gr COLOURED GEMSTONES & PEARLS

8 SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022

Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

Ajanta Afrika has been supplying the jewellery trade with the finest-quality precious and semiprecious gemstones, beads and unconventional diamonds since 2006. Although based in Cape Town, Ajanta’s stones travel all over the country and beyond. The company chooses only to work with natural stones, meaning no synthetics or coated stones. Its offering is extensive. “After so many years in the business – and our almost obsessive love of stones – our range just keeps growing and we're able to offer almost everything customers could need in colour stones.” says its founder. Ajanta’s all-female team is fast, efficient, friendly and always ready to assist. For more information, contact Ajanta Afrika on (021) 422-4677 / 076- 162-3741 or e-mail: gems@ajanta.co.za

COLOURED GEMSTONES & PEARLS

Gemstone sector set to boom WE LOOK AT Who has their paws in the oil jar?Gina White on pearls and jewellery 94e br yge

The 6 Cs of coloured gems

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Design Intern: Zian

Dlamini SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za Editor's

jewellerynews

The 6 Cs of coloured gems

SEPTEMBER 2022SA

Publishing Director/Editor-In-Chief: Jason Aarons Cell: E-mail:074-400-6677jason@isikhova.co.za

Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

“The record-breaking Lulo diamond field has again delivered a precious and large gemstone, this time an extremely rare and beautiful pink diamond,” said José Manuel Ganga Júnior, Chairperson of the board of state-owned Endiama, one of Lucapa’s partners in the deposit. “It’s a significant day for the Angolan diamond industry.”

Prins & Prins Diamonds celebrates 40 years in business pink diamond recovered from Lucapa’s Lulo mine in Angola

Lucapa has begun bulk-sampling at “priority kimberlites” as it searches for the primary source of Lulo’s diamonds, added MD Stephen Wetherall. – Rapaport

The type IIa rough, named the Lulo Rose, is “believed to be the largest pink diamond recovered in the past 300 years”, said Lucapa recently. It is also the fifth-largest diamond from Lulo and the deposit’s 27th over 100ct since commercial production began in 2015.

170ct

Renowned Cape Town manufacturing jeweller Prins & Prins Diamonds is celebrating 40 years in business.Founded in 1982 by Dr Petré Prins, it is one of SA’s leading suppliers of natural diamonds and gemstones. To eliminate middlemen, Prins established Aurum Art Atelier, where designers and goldsmiths have created bespoke jewellery for 40 years. Today, this is one of the few workshops where jewellery is still made by hand. In 1993, Prins bought the historic Huguenot House, completed its restoration and estab-

lished a diamond-cutting factory in its basement. This space is now the home of the Prins & Prins Gem and Jewellery Museum. Prins & Prins Diamonds offers a unique diamond experience, all under one roof: diamond and gemstone merchants, a gemstone laboratory, a jewellery design studio, a goldsmith atelier, consulting offices, showrooms and museum tours.

Top jewellery brands will be descending on Vicenza for VOS Vicenzaoro September – The Jewellery Boutique Show. The international exhibition of reference for the gold and jewellery world, organised by the Italian Exhibition Group, will take place at the Vicenza Exhibition Centre from 9-13 September 2022, together with VO Vintage (9-11AmongSeptember).thebig names are FOPE, Roberto Coin, Damiani, Crivelli and Annamaria Cammilli. Fabergé has chosen Vicenzaoro to celebrate its 180th anniversary by presenting

The Lucapa Diamond Company has recovered one of the largest pink diamonds in history: a 170ct stone from the Lulo mine in Angola.

In addition to the pink, Lulo is the source of Angola’s largest diamond, a 404ct rough named the 4th February stone.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202210 NEWS

Lucapa plans to sell the diamond through an international tender conducted by Angolan state diamond-marketing company Sodiam.

a special edition of its iconic Colours of Love rose gold diamond and ruby fluted egg pendant, inspired by the “Third Imperial Egg”. It will also launch a limited edition of 180 mini-gold egg objects whose colours are enhanced through a variety of enamels and precious stones. Master goldsmith workmanship, handed down through the ages, finds continuous inspiration in the company to explore creativity, reinterpreting even contemporary aspects of everyday life: on show in Vicenza for the first time will be the Game of Thrones egg, an eagerly awaited homage to the successful fantasy TV series.

Vicenzaoro will also see the return of the Design Room, a workshop area where experimentation and creativity come together in new market trends and unique pieces of high jewellery. The leading players will be international independent designers, who reinterpret jewellery according to their own styles, creating products with unusual and highly recognisable designs.

Top international jewellery brands at Vicenzaoro September

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The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) has announced the launch of the first “ShopJewellex”. This will be held over Black Friday’s 2022 weekend on Saturday 26 and Sunday 27 November in the Ballroom at Montecasino, a prime consumer location. ShopJewellex is an exciting retail-consumer jewellery initiative and consumer shopping experience, which gives members and nonmembers the opportunity to sell their collections directly to the public.

Virtual try-on of diamond rings launched by Get-Diamonds

Sondelzon, co-founder of Inova Diamonds, says that a later stage of Virtual Hand will offer full 3D technology, including realistic diamond and gold reflection and diamond rotation.

“This weekend is a superb way for retailers to boost their bottom line in two days, get face-to-face with a huge retail market and sell to excited and motivated consumers,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. “The joy of jewellery at ShopJewellex is said to become the consumer shopping experience of the year, and a celebration of the incredible wealth of South African talent.”

Orders from Hong Kong tumbled 31% to US$148,6 million, while most other markets, both in Asia and Europe, advanced by 10-65%.

He adds that in the first stage, the AR tool is open to all users, registered or not. The second stage, which will only be open to registered users, will enable users to virtually try on actual stones from Get-Diamonds listings not only in rings, but also in earrings and other items. The advanced tool is the result of cooperation with Inova Diamonds, which specialises in technological solutions for the online marketing of diamonds and jewellery usingArtiumAR.

The event is organised in collaboration with Cape Precious Metals and a number of industry institutions and companies. “It's a catered event with security in place and all visitors will receive an exciting goodie bag on the day, which is why it's essential to RSVP. There'll also be spot prizes, sales specials, giveaways and discounts on all stock purchased at the event and online from 22-24 September,” adds Hoge.

For more information or to RSVP, e-mail: events@capewatch.co.za no later than 12 September. Companies are limited to two visitors per entity.

“Virtual Hand offers retailers an important advantage in selling diamond jewellery, which I believe their customers will appreciate. The response of the trade has been overwhelmingly positive and I believe it will attract a significant number of new users to Get-Diamonds,” says Shirazy.

Isikhova Media, publishers of SAJN, have been tasked with the PR, media communications, social media campaigns, design collateral and ShopJewellex branding. Book your booth and shopcase your collections and brands! E-mail jewellex@jewellery.org.za or tel: +27 (0)11 484-5528.

Industry experts and international suppliers will be present to perform interactive demonstrations on the latest tools and technologies.

“After two challenging years with COVID-19 restrictions, we look forward to hosting the industry at our premises to network with their peers and trade suppliers,” says Tennille Hoge of Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies. “New precision tools will be launched on the day, while the latest technology and machinery – welders, laser engraving, setting and pneumatic machines, design software, testing equipment and diamond screening – will be demonstrated by experts.”

Watches made from precious metals and steel accounted for most of the growth in June, the organisation noted. In the price categories, timepieces valued at over US$3,096 recorded the sharpest rise, improving 11%. In the first six months of the year, Swiss watch exports rose 12% to US$12,28 billion, with shipments to the USA jumping 31% to US$1,92 billion. – Rapaport Get-Diamonds, the world’s largest B2B online platform for listing polished diamonds, owned by the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), has launched Virtual Hand, an augmented reality (AR) tool that enables users to virtually try on a variety of diamond rings in different sizes, cuts and settings using computerised imaging. GetDiamonds is the only B2B online platform to offer this Accordingtool.to Get-Diamonds Executive Director Eyal Shirazy, Virtual Hand is intended for use by retailers as a service for their customers. The company did a soft launch of the feature at JCK Las Vegas 2022.

“The Chinese market benefited from the gradual easing of anti- COVID -19 measures after two months of partial closure, but it was compared with a particularly high benchmark, as the figures for June 2021 were almost dou ble those of 2019,” the federation explained.

To celebrate its 60th birthday, Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies is hosting a network event at its premises in Cape Town on 22 September from 16h00-21h00.

ShopJewellex 2022 launches Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies to host Cape Town networking

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202212 N EWS

Swiss watch exports rise Increased American demand drove an increase in exports of Swiss watches in June as growth in the key market outweighed weakness in the Far OutgoingEast. shipments of Swiss timepieces climbed 8% year on year to US$2,2 billion globally for the month, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported. Supply to the USA, the sector’s largest market, grew 18% to US$335 million. China saw a 6% drop to US$238 million, a marked improvement from May’s 28% decline.

GIA launches Source Verification Service

• Building a network of industry experts and peers and learning how to leverage that network.

Diamond manufacturers are carefully vetted by an independent auditing firm before they can participate in the GIAÒ Source Verification Service. The auditors confirm that manufacturers can successfully track a diamond from receipt of the rough stone through the entire manufacturing process. Only polished natural diamonds with verified source documentation, including Kimberley Process certificates and invoices, from vetted manufacturers are eligible for the verification service at this time. The GIA plans to add laboratory-grown diamonds to the service in the near future. Participating manufacturers will also be regularly audited to ensure continued adherence to the service guidelines. The disclosed source information is available in the GIA’s online Report Check service.

“Diamond manufacturers are carefully vetted by an independent auditing firm before they can participate in the GIAÒ Source Verification Service.”

The disclosed information is presented in a tab on the GIA Report check. A sample report on GIA Report Check – report number 2225529493.

In line with HB Antwerp’s fundamental commitment to investing in and strengthening the communities in which it operates, the programme aims to support the Botswana economy, foster long-term talent development and create economic fairness and brand exposure for young and emerging graduates, while furthering sustainability, diversity and inclusion in the diamond industry.

HB Antwerp hosts hackathon to foster talent and job opportunities in Botswana HB Antwerp, in partnership with WomHub, hosted a fast-paced, sustainability-focused one-day hackathon on 6 August. This innovative event gave 50 Motswana college students an opportunity to hone their problem-solving and innovation skills and gain exposure to HB Antwerp, which is positioning itself as a leading employer of young talent in Botswana. Participants were selected from a variety of fields, including communications, finance, human resources, legal and sustainability, and were guided through the process by subject matter experts and asked to design an innova tive solution to a business challenge related to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.

• Enhancing confidence in public speaking.

Thirty participants won places in the highlyanticipated second class of the HB Innovation Lab, set to begin this month. Launched in 2021, the laboratory is a comprehensive training programme intended to cultivate sector-specific skills and offer meaningful, in-country training and job opportunities for young people in Botswana.

• Gaining exclusive access to resources in innovation, leadership, entrepreneurship and employability skills.

The next iteration of this intensive programme will take place virtually over five months and will include:

• Gaining a greater understanding of the future world of work.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202214 NEWS

“We wanted to provide a platform for Motswana students to share their vision and ideas for shaping Botswana’s sustainable future. Together with WomHub, our mission was to create real experiences, communities and learning environments for local talent in Botswana. We enable meaningful participation in economic decision-making at all levels of our business so that opportunity and prosperity are shared,” says Margaux Donckier, Director of Public Affairs: HB Antwerp.

Leading diamond manufacturers began submitting polished diamonds for the new GIAÒ Source Verification Service (SVS) in early July. GIA-graded diamonds with verified source country information will be available as the first submissions are returned and more manufacturers join the programme.

“This is a time when increasingly complex community and business challenges require innovative and creative thinking from those who understand the environment and are invested in a sustainable and prosperous future,” says Anjani Harjeven, Chief Operating Officer at WomHub. “In partnership with HB Antwerp, we’re developing young Motswana leaders of the future and bringing their incredible talents to the forefront so that they can play an active role in solving the problems facing their communities. This hackathon model has proven particularly successful in harnessing energy and creativity for sustainable outcomes.”

• Developing a meaningful business idea that solves a problem in students’ communities.

• Gaining the opportunity to be recruited by HB Antwerp in January 2023.

“The GIA’s new service provides diamond source information to consumers as quickly as possible,” says GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques. “Backed by our commitment to consumer protection, the GIAÒ Source Verification Service is ready to provide verified diamond source information to address increasing consumer demand and government interest in transparency and traceability across the diamond supply chain.”

Responsibly sourced Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies. gemfields.com

Coloured gemstones will witness substantial demand from China and the USA in the near future, which is expected to grow during the forecast period. According to the Natural Resource Governance Institute, the popularity of coloured gemstones has increased in recent years.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 2022-2031 GROWTH TREND

According to FMI’s analysis, the variation between the basis point values observed in the gemstone market in “H1, 2022 – Outlook” over “H1, 2022 – Projected” reflects a growth of 60 units. However, compared with “H1, 2021”, the market is expected to spike by 66 basis points in “H1, 2022”.

As per newly released data from Future Market Insights (FMI), the gemstone market is estimated at US$30 779,1 million in 2022 and is projected to reach US$53 146,2 million by 2032. The market grew at a compound annual growth rate of 5,6% from 2017-2021.

The gemstone market holds a 50% share in the overall gem and jewellery market.

Coloured gemstone market expecting massive growth

Furthermore, in order to protect themselves from coun terfeit products, consumers in developing economies such as Asia Pacific are gradually moving away from traditional disorganised jewellery towards organised branded products.

Key reasons for this change in growth rate are market growth during the first half of the forecast period, owing to the increase in consumers’ income and increased use of ornamentation in ceremonies. Increasing millennial interest in gemstones and expanding use of coloured gemstone accessories are expected to positively impact the market growth over the forecast period.

Despite these prospects, some likely challenges remain for the industry, including disorganised markets in several countries that are characterised by illegal activities such as the smuggling of raw gemstones and environmental issues.

The growing popularity of lesser-known gemstones is driving the market. While diamonds are still high in demand, other gemstones such as opals, topaz, alexandrite and tanzanite are gaining popularity, which is expected to contribute towards their increasing consumption.

FMI OFFERS A COMPARISON AND REVIEW ANALYSIS of the dynamics of the gemstone market, which is principally subjected to an array of industry factors, along with a few definite influences concerning viewpoints that support industry innovation.

New advances that have taken place in the market include fashion designers focusing on developing innovative jewellery products, as well as manufacturers becoming vertically integrated in the production of gemstone jewellery.

16

However, the prices of coloured gemstones have increased by 100% in the past decade and consumers are interested in buying coloured gemstones other than diamonds, as they are luxury products that act as status symbols. Coloured gemstones are gaining popularity among young buyers across the world, as the right price and uniqueness are among the most important factors taken into account by these consumers. The COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted the supply chain across countries, having a significant impact on the gem and jewellery trade. The gemstone industry comes with a costly supply chain. Before being embedded in jewellery, stones travel across many borders and through many hands. Further, shipping, travel, borders and numerous trade shows were cancelled or halted as a result of the coronavirus outbreak, further impeding market growth.

The outbreak has had an impact on industrial mining and cutting operations, as well as end-use, which has impacted sales. However, as the economies begin to recover, the market is gradually gaining growth opportunities. North America is expected to remain one of the key markets. Accounting for a majority of market share, the USA held the largest market share in 2021 in that part of the globe. The growing establishment of trade associations and other non-profit institutes in the USA has played a key role in organising the market. Institutions such as the American Gem Society and the Gemological Institute of America are examples. The American Gem Society has undertaken numerous efforts to set up and maintain high standards of professional conduct and ethical behaviour through accreditation and education of its members. The trade association has also laid down stringent standards and makes the necessary efforts to educate and provide its members with business solutions. Such initiatives on the part of establishments and associations are

likely to facilitate regional growth in the USA. Europe is predicted to be one of the most attractive markets during the forecast period, according to FMI. France, in particular, is expected to account for over 20,2% of market share on the continent through 2021.

The growing popularity of lesser-known gemstones is driving the market. While diamonds are still high in demand, other gemstones such as opals, topaz, alexandrite and tanzanite are gaining popularity, which is expected to contribute towards their increasing consumption. up new income opportunities for women in France. Besides this, when considering the gemstone industry or end-use in the jewellery industry, women are considered to be a prominent consumer segment. Thus, their rapidly growing spending power is expected to fuel growth in the demand for gemstones in the near future and provide opportunities for global players to bring new and attractive gems into the French market. The Indian market is also expected to grow at an impressive rate. The market is driven by prevailing social beliefs regarding specific coloured gemstones, which are regarded as symbols of royalty and luxury, which explains why they are still widely used today.

Women are increasingly venturing into new employment opportunities. Higher stan dards of living and education have opened

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 17 2022-2031 GROWTH TREND

FMI (an ESOMAR-certified market research organisation and a member of the Greater New York Chamber of Commerce) provides in-depth insights into governing factors elevating the demand in the market. It discloses opportunities that will favour the market growth in various segments on the basis of source, application, sales channel and end-use over the next 10 years.

The key players in the global coloured gemstone market include Anglo American Plc, the Gemfields Group Ltd, Petra Diamonds Ltd, Rockwell Diamonds Inc, Gem Diamonds Ltd, PJSC Alrosa, the Swarovski Group, Botswana Diamonds Plc, the Dominion Diamonds Corporation, Mountain Province Diamonds Inc, the Trans Hex Group Ltd, the MIF Gems Co Ltd, Greenland Ruby, Merlin Diamonds Ltd and Fura Gems Inc. Extensive organisation of trade shows, exhibitions and other such events has driven a desire among end-consumers to adopt products embedded with coloured gemstones.

Images courtesy Gemfields

Diamonds have traditionally been measured and defined by the four Cs. However, coloured gems have so many subtle features that Gemfields has identified six Cs, adding character and certification to the standard colour, cut, clarity and carat. As these rules cannot capture emotion, Gemfields believes it is acceptable, and even encouraged, to differ from the experts when it comes to personal preference.

The six Cs for measuring and defining coloured gems

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202218 THE SIX CS

It has therefore identified six Cs for measuring and defining coloured gemstones: colour, cut, clarity, carat, character and certification.

For notable gemstones, a report from a licensed gemmological laboratory will provide an expert opinion on colour, clarity and carat; it can also include details of the country of origin and the presence, if any, of treatments used to enhance appearance.

Gem-cutting is a fine art, still taking place in traditional workshops that have been established for centuries – India is known for emerald-cutting, while ruby-cutting takes place in Thailand. The traditional cuts tend to be either faceted gems – those with sheer surfaces and straight-line cuts, like round or oval symmetric cuts – or non-faceted gems with rounded surfaces, like the ancient cabochon. The choice of a faceted or unfaceted cut is Unlike diamonds, coloured gemstones are not flawless. It is a combination of their inclusions – the manner in which sunlight dances through the cut, the way light fractures bring to life the crystal pigment and, in the case of rubies, evoke the “fire within” – that make up a gemstone’s character.

Colour Gemmologists describe a gemstone’s colour in terms of hue, tone and saturation. Hue is the nature of the colour itself. An emerald, for example, can vary from bluegreen to green with a hint of yellow. Tone describes the intensity of the colour – from deep and rich to light and delicate. Saturation refers to purity, vividness, brightness and intensity, on a scale from grey to full colour.

Clarity Millions of years ago, deep inside the earth, a combination of intense heat and pressure changed the very nature of scarce elements, transforming compounds into rare and remarkable crystals. As the crystals cooled and solidified, minute deposits of minerals and patterns of tiny fractures were entombed inside.

GEMFIELDS, WORLD-LEADING SUPPLIER OF responsibly sourced coloured gemstones, specialises in emeralds mined from Zambia and rubies from Mozambique and is the owner of one of the world’s most legendary names in jewellery, Fabergé.

Gemfields is working with its industry partners to make laboratory reports and chainof-custody reports industry standards.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 19

The word comes from the carob seed, used by ancient Middle Eastern jewellers to compare the weight of gemstones based on the incorrect assumption that all carob seeds weighed the same. A carat is exactly 0,2 g –so a 5ct gemstone weighs 1 g. Thanks to the difference in density between gemstones, the carat weight of a specific cut varies by gem; an 8 mm round cut emerald weighs approximately 1,75ct, while the same size ruby comes in at around 2,5ct. A 1ct emerald appears larger than a 1ct ruby because emeralds have a lower density. Character No two coloured gemstones are the same. They have individual quirks and unique properties that make up their character.

Certification, reports and treatments Gemstones are a finite resource and there are not enough top-quality ones to meet demand. As a result, many receive treatments to improve their appearance. The extent to which a gemstone has been treated will affect its value. Any treatments that a gemstone has undergone should be fully disclosed to the customer.

“The phrase ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’ is never more applicable than when selecting coloured gemstones,” says Gemfields.

These natural features are known as “inclusions” and give an identity to each gem. Inclusions help gemmologists understand the place of origin and distinguish between natural, synthetic and treated gemstones. Some inclusions add value and all add character – such as the garden (“jardin”) inside an emerald, or the silk that forms star patterns inside a ruby. Carat Carat describes the weight of the gem –though it is sometimes incorrectly thought to describe its size.

THE SIX CS Unlike diamonds, coloured gemstones are not flawless. It is a combination of their inclusions – the manner in which sunlight dances through the cut, the way light fractures bring to life the crystal pigment and, in the case of rubies, evoke the “fire within” – that makes up character.agemstone’s generally decided through the nature of the rough itself: a clean rough with a few visible inclusions lends itself more to faceting, to emphasise the natural beauty within.

Historically, the trade has defined ideal shades of colour for each variety of gem, which can influence their price.

Cut Cut describes the shape into which the rough gemstone has been cut and polished.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 SPONSORED

For heavy duty manufacture, it also stocks machinery for jewellery production, such as, Chinetti rolling mills, Elma ultrasonic cleaners, Magic 70 engraving machinery and Orotig laser welding machines.

For stocking any modern precision workshop essentials, laser and welding technology is a must – in house demonstrations and training have proved a valuable, ‘try before you buy’ model in conjunction with our jewellery design software packages.

Cape Watchmakers Supplies & Tools were the dominant supplier of watch parts to the industry at that stage. A change of ownership in 1986 happened with Colin Browne taking the baton and invested in jewellery tools and other precision equipment. By the 1990s, the diamond industry grew substantially, complementing the company’s range with diamond grading and evaluating equipment.

2022 SEES CAPE TOOLS & JEWELLERY Supplies reach a milestone in its history –celebrating 60 years of success and growth

Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies stocks all the necessary professional tools and machinery for jewellery and watch production.Itswebsite (www.capewatch.co.za) itemises its substantial offering – simply and with current pricing.

Browne’s son Rodger took over the director’s seat in 2004 and re-branded the business to Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies to help bring a stronger identity to the diamond and jewellery industry.

The company first opened its doors in November 1962, when a general dealer, Bloomberg & Kleinman offered its watch spare parts division for sale to Dave Talmut and Max Wiener, the founding directors of Cape Watchmakers Supplies & Tools.

Shortly after, under the directorship of Tennille Hoge, Jewel Quip merged with Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies. Hoge’s knowledge and expertise in product development accelerated growth to a new level. In 2015, diamond polishing equipment was integrated into its diamond division. Today, Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies is able to offer trade services and consultancy under Hoge’s stewardship with her extensive experience as a goldsmith.

Spanning six decades, previous addresses include St Georges Mall, Burg Street, Long Street and Church Street, however, in 2019 the company settled into a larger and grander premises with its showroom situated in the historic Castle Mews Building at 39 Sir Lowry Rd Woodstock.CapeTools& Jewellery Supplies prides itself as being a truly Capetonian jewellery supplyCapecompany.Tools& Jewellery Supplies stocks an extensive inventory of top-quality jewellery tools, packaging and engraving equipment used in the production and repair of jewellery. With the arrival of synthetic diamonds in South Africa a strong focus on keeping up to date with overseas equipment and methods to categorize and identify synthetics. The latest arrival of the Aura Smart Pro diamond screener is an exciting addition to its diamond division.

Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies Celebrating 60 Years

From tools for every application, including filing, dapping, casting, setting, soldering, polishing, diamond testing and measuring. Cape Tools stocks every accessory down to the finest of silver and gold findings. No jewellers job is complete without presentation, therefore the popular packaging range was added to include a personalised branding facility to have your company remembered long after the sale, Those who do crafts will be interested in its precision tools such as magnifying glasses, the well renowned Dremel tools, loupes and modelling tools.

Gems and

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Jewellery:

The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems Jewellery: The South

and

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as a senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202221

African Handbook

An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative Monthly educational insert

Jadeite glass Turquoise plastics Labradorite foil backs Lapis lazuli

Demantoid synthetic corundum Emerald synthetic emerald Cat’s eye synthetic quartz Alexandrite synthetic rutile

Jadeite jade triplets Tsavorite glass Spessartine garnet cubic zirconia Peridot foil backs Spinel

Green sapphire synthetic spinel Diamond YAG Chrome garnet plastics Nephrite jade doublets

White sapphire synthetic opal Jadeite jade synthetic spinel

Iolite synthetic spinel

Topaz synthetic spinel Tourmaline YAG Zircon

GEMSTONES AND THEIR LOOK-ALIKES

WHITE GEMSTONES

Aquamarine synthetic quartz Diamond synthetic corundum

Black Cat’s-eyeJadeiteopalquartz

Non-transparent blue gemstones

QuartzPearlOpalOnyx

Diamond GGG White sapphire glass Moonstone plastics Opal strontium titanate

ISSUE 23ISSUE 33 PART USEFULREFERENCEIIIGUIDETABLESANDLISTSTABLE17

Quartz cubic zirconia Spinel synthetic rutile

Please note:The list on the left is of the gems normally encountered in a specified colour.Those on the right are substitutes in this colour.

Alabaster glass Chalcedony opal doublets

Mother-of-pearl Nephrite jade

Opal synthetic rutile

Star sapphire synthetic corundum

COLOURLESS GEMSTONES

BLUE GEMSTONES

Azurite synthetic turquoise

Chalcedony synthetic spinel (sintered)

GREEN GEMSTONES

Topaz plastics Sapphire glass Spinel YAG Tourmaline cubic zirconia Tanzanite dyed glass Zircon foil backs

Coral plastics Moonstone synthetic corundum

Quartz cubic zirconia

Aventurine quartz glass

Non-transparent green gemstones

Grossularite garnet

Jadeite jade

Nephrite jade Opal Serpentine(black)

Hessonite garnet synthetic rutile

Fire opal synthetic spinel

LabradoriteJet Nephrite jade

Tourmaline Zircon

SpinelSunstone Tiger’sTopaz

Alexandrite doublets Ruby plastics Pink sapphire triplets

Bloodstone synthetic emerald

AN INTRODUCTION TO GEMSTONESISSUE 33

Amazonite dyed onyx

Chrysoberyl glass Sapphire plastics Diamond synthetic corundum

Mandarin garnet triplets

Black coral plastics Black onyx synthetic opal Star sapphire synthetic corundum Chalcedony (sintered) Diamond

Garnet (rhodolite) synthetic rutile

TourmalineTopaz

Bull’s-eyeCat’s-eyeRhodochrositeRhodoniteMother-of-pearlquartz(quartz)

Zircon

Tourmaline RED AND PINK GEMSTONES

Diamond doublets

Beryl doublets

Andradite garnet glass

Chrysoprase plastics

MalachiteLabradorite

OpalObsidiandoublets

TourmalineTopaz ZirconSpinel

BROWN AND ORANGE GEMSTONES

Amber copal (resins)

Fire RoseFluoriteopalquartz

Chrysoberyl (cat’s eye) green sapphire

Garnet (almandite) synthetic corundum

Non-transparent red and pink gemstones

Garnet (pyrope) cubic zirconia

BLACK AND GREY GEMSTONES

Nephrite jade quartz

Jadeite jade

Tourmaline Verdite

Cornelian plastics Coral glass Grossularite chalcedony

Kunzite synthetic spinel

eye (quartz)

Sard, sardonyx synthetic cat’s-eye

Star garnet synthetic corundum Star ruby synthetic spinel

Hematite Jadeite jade

Morganite foil backs

topaz Rhodolite

sapphire

garnet

HOW TO ESTIMATE THE WEIGHT OF MOUNTED GEMSTONES

Spessartite

Often the weight of gemstones and gold is not expressed in carats or grams respectively, but in another measurement such as grains or momme. The following calculations can be used to convert these Caratsmeasurements:divideby7,77 = pennyweights

sapphire

Peridot

Lavulite (sugulite) plastics Star glass Almandite

Diamond synthetic alexandrite

garnet ChalcedonyJadeite

Pennyweights divide by ,1287 = carats Grams divide by ,20 = carats Pennyweights divide by ,6430 = grams Pearl grains divide by 4,00 = carats Pearl grains divide by 20,00 = grams Pearl grains divide by 75 = momme

TABLE 19

spinel

TABLE 18

If the length, width, depth and SG of a polished gem are known, its estimated weight can be calculated. A manual caliper or an electronic measuring device is used to measure the gem’s dimensions to at least ,01 millimetre. (If an older type Moe Gauge is used, its measurements are converted as: Moe x ,3058 = millimeter).

Carats divide by 18,75 = momme

spinel Almandite

Carats divide by 5,00 = grams Grams divide by 1,5552 = pennyweights

Citrine cubic zirconia garnet triplets TourmalineTopaz Zircon Non-transparent yellow Amber plastics Chalcedony chrysoberyl

gemstones

YELLOW GEMSTONES Amber doublets Heliodor foil backs Chrysoberyl glass Yellow plastics

Diamond synthetic sapphire Hessonite garnet synthetic quartz Opal synthetic rutile synthetic

Shape L/W ratio Formula x stone factor

Kunzite glass Morganite garnet paste RhodoliteSpinelSapphire KunziteSpinel Non-transparent purple

gemstones

Formulas to calculate a diamond’s weight using its measurements By using the following formulas - where L = length, W = width, D = depth and Di = diameter (in mm) - the carat weight of a diamond can be calculated. These formulas are based on “Ideal American” cut dimensions and angles.

Amethyst synthetic garnet synthetic corundum Alexandrite synthetic quartz

Oval Di x Di x D x ,0062 =ct Heart L x W x D x ,0059 = ct

Tanzanite

WEIGHT CONVERSION FORMULAS

ISSUE 33 PURPLE AND VIOLET GEMSTONES

Emerald 1:1 L x W x D x ,008 = ct 1.5:1 L x W x D x ,0092 = ct 2:1 L x W x D x ,010 = ct

Round Di x Di x D x ,0061= ct

Carats divide by ,25 = pearl grains Grams divide by ,05 = pearl grains Momme divide by ,0133 = pearl grains Momme divide by ,053 = carats

Iolite cubic zirconia

Faceted gems

Round Di x Di x D x SG x ,0018 = ct weight

————————————Caratformula:weight = SG

L x W x D x stone factor (,000) + bulge factor

COLOURED GEMSTONESFORMULAS TO CALCULATE WEIGHT USING MEASUREMENTS

Note: Adjustments should be made for the “bulge factor” normally present in coloured gems. Add 2-6% to the calculated weight, depending on the degree of “bulge”.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY (SG) ESTIMATION

STONE REPLACEMENT FORMULA If an existing gem of known variety and weight needs to be replaced by another gem with the same dimension, the weight of the replacement gem is calculated as follows: SG of replacement gem x weight of existing gem weight of ——————————– = replacement gem SG of existing gem

• Round beads Di x Di x Di x SG x ,00259 = ct weight

Note: These formulas are based on thin to medium girdles. Weights must be adjusted by 2-4% for thick girdles and 5-10% for very thick girdles.

Shape Formula x stone factor

Oval Di x Di x D x SG x ,0020 = ct weight

Marquise L x W x D x SG x ,0016 = ct weight Pear L x W x D x SG x ,00175 = ct weight

• Cabochons L x W x D x SG x ,0029 = ct weight

Octagon L x W x D x SG x ,00245 = ct weight (emerald cut) Rectangle L x W x D x SG x ,0026 = ct weight

This formula is quite useful and gives an indication of the identity of a colourless stone, especially if it is singly reflective with a RI higher than 1,81. Stone factors are given in the previous column.

Full cuts: Di x Di x D x ,0061 = weight Single cuts: Di x Di x D x ,0069 = weight

If the cabochon is flat or low-domed, use x ,0026

The following formulas can be used to calculate a co loured gemstone’s weight if its length (L), width (W) and depth (D) are measured in millimetres.

2,5:1 L x W x D x ,0106 = ct Marquise 1,5:1 L x W x D x ,00565 = ct 2:1 L x W x D x ,0058 = ct 2,5:1 L x W x D x ,00585 = ct 3:1 L x W x D x ,00595 = ct Pear 1,25:1 L x W x D x ,00615 = ct 1,5:1 L x W x D x ,0060 = ct 1,66:1 L x W x D x ,0059 = ct 2:1 L x W x D x ,00575 = ct

Note: The weight of “exaggerated” fancy shapes with improper tapering to points or “bulges” evident on its pavilion should be adjusted by 2-6%.

Diamond melee (smalls) can be estimated by taking an average diameter and calculating its depth as: Di x ,60 = D (depth)

Calculate the stone’s weight as follows:

ISSUE 33

The SG of a gemstone can be estimated if its carat weight and dimensions (mm) are known, by using the following

Square L x W x D x SG x ,0023 = ct weight

ISSUE 33 GEMSTONE SHAPES Round brilliant Marquise Oval Pear Heart Baguette Emerald long Asher cut Barion long Barion square Radiant long Radiant square Princess long Princess square Square #3 Princess square Step cut triangle Faceted triangle Trilliant Cushion cut Zinnia Starburst Flanders cut

8. Subduction zones - jadeite forms under intense pressure and temperatures where a crustal plate is forced to extreme depths during collision with another plate.

1. Contact metamorphism - emeralds form by reaction of granitic fluids with chromium-rich rocks. Gems such as iolites, spinel and chrysoberyl can also form in this contact zone.

ISSUE 33

4. Metamorphic rocks - garnet, ruby, sapphire and spinel form by intense alteration of alumina-rich rocks that were heated and folded when continents collided.

GEMSTONES ARE FORMED

5. Hydrothermal deposits - quartz, gold, lapis lazuli and grossular garnet form when hot fluids react with shales and limestones.

1 2 3 8 7 6 5 4 310 9 13 12 11

IN

10. Alluvial (placer) deposits - rivers transport gold, diamonds and most other gems from their primary occurrence and drop such precious loads when the rivers start slowing down.

3. Lava flows - geodes form when gas cavities in the lava are filled by silica-rich fluids from which crystals of amethyst, citrine and/or agate crystallise. Opal and peridot also crystallise in lavas.

SKETCH OF VARIOUS GEOLOGICAL

7. Basaltic rocks and ultramafic rocks - peridot, platinum.

12. Marine diamond deposits - ocean currents and wave action concentrate gold and diamonds in beach gravels.

13. Kimberlitic volcano - bringing diamonds from the mantle to the earth’s surface.

6. Replacement veins - opal, turquoise, tanzanite.

DIAGRAMMATIC ENVIRONMENTS WHICH

11. Sediments - opal forms by evaporation of silica-rich groundwater.

2. Pegmatites - late-stage fluids from a granitic magma form pegmatites in which quartz, feldspar, topaz, tourmaline, chrysoberyl, moonstone, spodumene and aquamarine crystallise.

9. Earth’s mantle - at depths exceeding 150 km, diamond and pyrope garnet crystallised billions of years ago and were transported much later by kimberlitic volcanoes to the earth’s surface.

WORLDTHEOFDEPOSITSGEMSTONE

ISSUE 33

IndiesWest coral Dominican Republic amber

Thailand, Vietnam ruby, sapphire, almandine garnet, zircon

Zaire diamond, sapphire,ruby, emerald, aquamarine, tourmaline, garnets, chrysoberyl, feldspars, tanzanite Madagascar aquamarine otherand quartz,beryls, ruby,sapphire, spodumene, chrysoberyl, feldspars, andtopaz tourmaline Burma sapphire,ruby, topaz,quartz, tourmaline, peridot, spinel,zircon, chrysoberyl, jadeite, moonstone, kunzite, otheramber, varietiesrare

Angola diamond Botswana diamond, agate Germany *amethyst *agate *topaz UK quartz*,smoky fluoritejet*, Finland labradorite Poland chrysoprase*, amber Argentina rhodochrosite, varietiesquartz Mozambique quartz,smoky tourmaline

Tahiti pearls Hawaii peridot, coral Mexico opal,fire quartz varieties, topaz, turquoise, feldspars Guatamala jadeite

Canada diamond, amethyst, garnet, nephrite, labradorite, feldspar, amber, sodalite, ammolite

Alps quartz varieties, feldspar, fluorite Spain aventurine, jetquartz, Italy tourmaline, coral,amber, serpentine

Honduras opal–Chile lazulilapis– GulfPersian pearls–Tanzania garnets.emerald,tsavorite,tanzanite,–

China ruby,nephrite, sapphire, aquamarine, amethyst, peridot, diamond, turquoise, jadeiteamber,

Taiwan nephrite Indonesia diamond Japan jadeite, topaz, quartz, coral, rhodolite

Colombia emerald Venezuela diamond, pearlsjasper, Guyana diamond Bolivia ametrine

ofgemsingleayieldlocalitiesOthercenturies.forgemsproducedhaveandvarietiesinrichareIndiaandBrazilAfrica,assuchAreas

only.importancehistoricofdepositsindicates*symbolThe(Myanmar).BurmainMogokassuchqualityexceptional

United States sapphire, ruby, emerald, aquamarine, varieties,quartz tourmaline,topaz, garnets,peridot, nephrite, turquoise, sunstone, beryl,red feldspars, spodumene, pearls

Brazil diamond, andemerald beryls,other opal, varieties,quartz tourmaline, garnets,topaz, chrysoberyl, amazonite

Iran turquoise Kenya ruby, sapphire, aquamarine, amethyst, tourmaline, garnets, spinel, feldspar, tsavorite

ZealandNew nephrite Australia sapphire,opal, emerald,diamond, chrysoprase, nephrite,jasper, coralpearls,

Nigeria sapphire, aquamarine, spineltopaz, Central African Republic diamondLeone,Sierra Ghana, CoastIvory diamond Zambia emeralds, chrysoberyl, malachite Namibia diamond, aquamarine, agate,quartz, tourmaline, mandarintopaz, sodalite,garnet, demantoid Zimbabwe emerald, aquamarine, topaz,quartz, tourmaline, garnets, chrysoberyl, diamondverdite, AfricaSouth diamond, emeralds*, quartz, tourmaline, jade,Transvaal rhodochrosite, verdite, lavuliteroyal

LankaSri ruby, sapphire, amethyst, tourmaline, topaz, garnets,zircon, chrysoberyl, spinel, moonstone, otherIolite, speciesrare India diamond, sapphire,ruby, emerald, aquamarine, quartz, almandine garnet, chrysoberyl, moonstone, starrhodolite, sodalite,iopside, pearls

SiberiaUrals,Russia, emeralddiamond, beryls,otherand chrysoprase,quartz, topaz,tourmaline, garnet,demantoid, nephrite,alexandrite, feldspar,lazuli,lapis malachite Afghanistan aquamarine,ruby, tourmaline,spinel, kunzitelazuli,lapis Pakistan emerald,ruby, aquamarine, spinel,garnet, topaz Austria emerald*, almandine RepublicCzech pyropeopal*, garnet* Romania chalcedony, amber, rhodolite, moldavite Egypt emerald*, jasper, peridot, turquoise*Norway pyropeperidot,emerald*, feldsparaventurine,garnet,

(Above): Filling residues in the fractures of a tanzanite. Photo credit: Taryn Khourie; magnified 30x. EGL South Africa has seen an increase in oil-filled tanzanite being submitted to the laboratory over the past year. Kaylan Khourie, FGA qualified gemmologist and laboratory gemmologist at EGL SA, strongly advises those in the trade to be aware of this. been reported, but one cannot rule it out as a possibleBelowtreatment.arephotomicrographs of an oil filling inside fractures of a heavily-included tanzanite:.

When gemstones are clarity-enhanced in this way, they are first cleaned with acetone inside a vacuum chamber to remove any foreign material in the surface-reaching fractures. They are then placed back inside the vacuum chamber with the filler, which has been heated up slightly. This temporarily increases the viscosity of the filler so that it flows more easily into the fractures.

Identification of such fillers relies upon microscopic observations and spectroscopic analyses. Glass-filling of tanzanite has not yet

The vacuum chamber helps the acetone (for cleaning) and filler penetrate more deeply into the fractures and remove any air trapped in them. As the filler cools down inside the fractures, it becomes less viscous and, as a result, does not flow out of them.

Gemstones treated in this way need to be handled with care because exposure to heat and chemicals can damage the filler and negatively affect the clarity appearance.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 29 CLARITY-ENHANCED TANZANITE

Who has their paws in the oil jar?

CLARITY-ENHANCEMENT IS USUALLY associated with natural emeralds and diamonds, but more and more types of gemstones are being filled to hide their fractures. The idea is to fill surface-reaching fractures of the gemstone with a transparent substance that has a refractive index (RI) close to that of the gemstone. An unfilled fracture contains air, which has an RI of 1,00. Most gemstones have an RI from 1,40-3,00. Therefore, the difference between the RI of the air in the fracture and the gemstone is significant. The significant difference in RI is decreased by filling the fracture with a transparent substance which has an RI close to that of the gemstone – usually an oil or resin. This stops the light that passes through the gemstone, and into the fracture, from significantly reflecting and refracting, making it less visible. The result is an improved clarity appearance of the gemstone. Another term for this type of treatment is “fracture-filling”. Although traditionally uncommon, oil-filled tanzanites have been reported by RW Hughes in Gems & Gemology ’s Winter 2020 edition and were recently submitted to EGL SA for identification and grading. Ideally, a filler with a refractive index close to that of tanzanite (around 1,70) would be used to try to hide the fractures. However, paraffin oil or cedarwood oil (two of the most common emerald-fillers with RIs of around 1,50) would be sufficient to hide the fractures and are used in many other non-emerald gemstones (such as tourmaline, quartz and corundum).

FANCY VIVIDS ACROSS ALL COLOUR CATEgories showed an increase of 1%, with a rise of 2,6% over the past 12 months. The Fancy and Fancy Intense categories showed an increase of 0,7% and 0,8% respectively, with a 3,5% and 3,2% rise over the past 12 months.

The Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF) has announced the results of the Q2 2022 Fancy Color Diamond Index (FCDI). The price rise in all colours and sizes of fancy colour diamonds continued, with an average increase of 0,8%.

diamondcolourpriceskeeprising

Fancy

Fancy Vivids across all colour categories showed an increase of 1%, with a rise of 2,6% over the past 12 months. The Fancy and Fancy Intense categories showed an increase of 0,7% and 0,8% respectively, with a 3,5% and 3,2% rise over the past 12 months. Yellow The Yellow segment rose overall by 0,9% in Q2, led by an increase of 1,5% in the Fancy category and 1,2% in the Fancy Intense cat egory. The most noticeable increase is in the Fancy 8ct category (4,9%), while the 5ct and 8ct in all intensities rose by 2,1% and 1,6%, respectively. This quarter, the weakest perfor mance was in Fancy Intense 1,5ct (-0,8%). Pink Pink diamonds rose overall by 0,8%, driven mainly by the Fancy Vivid category that increased by 1,5% and the Fancy Vivid 10ct and Fancy 2ct categories, both of which rose by 0,9%. The biggest increase over the past 12 months was seen in the Fancy 5ct category (6,3%). The only significant drop this quarter was in the Fancy 8ct, with a -1,3% decrease. Blue 10ct blues of all intensities showed the highest rise (2,1%), with the Fancy 10ct category rising by 2,2% this quarter and the Fancy Vivid 10ct category a close second (2,1%). The Fancy

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202230 COLOURED DIAMONDS

It’s evident that the increase in prices is driven by two market forces which haven’t roughfiercethecolourdemandquitesimultaneouslyoccurredforsometime:highforfancydiamondsonretailsideandcompetitiononintenders.

All Fancy Colour diamonds 0,8% 3,1%

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 31 COLOURED DIAMONDS

“It’s evident that the increase in prices is driven by two market forces which haven’t occurred simultaneously for quite some time:

All Blue Fancy Colour diamonds 0,6% 2,0%

Category Q2/22 vs Q1/22 Q2/22 vs Q2/21 T3 TTM

All Yellow Fancy Colour diamonds 0,9% 2,6%

Intense 1ct category rose most during the past year (5,2%), outperforming Fancy 1ct and Fancy Vivid 1ct, which rose by 1,1% and 1,6% over the past 12 months, respectively. No categories decreased by over 1% this quarter, with the closest being a -0,8% drop in the Fancy 3ct category.

All Pink Fancy Colour diamonds 0,8% 3,4%

high demand for fancy colour diamonds on the retail side and fierce competition on rough in tenders,” explained FCRF board member Ishaia Gol. The Fancy Color Diamond Index is published by the non-profit Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF), tracking pricing data for yellow, pink and blue fancy colour diamonds in the major global trading centres – Hong Kong, New York, Geneva and Tel Aviv. A non-trading organisation, the FCRF promotes transparency and fair trade through the Fancy Color Diamond Price Index, rarity data, auction analyses, commercial research and objective valuations.

At the time, I was travelling in Tanzania and visiting the mines for this piece. I personally hand-picked and polished the tanzanite stones for it. Gina White on pearls, jewellery and what inspires her creativity

I’ve always had an interest in jewellery and was keen to understand the industry better after making many bad personal purchases. I’m also passionate about the vision for Jupiter’s Jungle. All our products are produced in-house, from start to finish. Jupiter’s Jungle came about when an American entrepreneur and I met through a mutual friend and a discussion began about a jewellery and diamond business in South Africa. A few months later, I boarded a plane to Johannesburg and the rest is history. You use pearls often in your jewellery pieces. What draws you to designing with them? Pearls are a very popular item in middleand upper-class black America. My mother gave me my first pearl set when I was only seven years old. She often gave me gifts that included pearls and it was always very special to me.

What are your other favourite materials to use? I love yellow gold because it has such a regal, genuine feel to it. However, I don’t use it often in my collection due to the market preference for white metals. What inspires your creativity when making a new piece of jewellery? My travels and exploring nature inspire me. I always say: “If you’ve never been with me, then you’ve never been!” People who travel with me often have a totally different experience in a place, even if they’ve been there many times before. I enjoy doing extraordinary things when I travel. I like getting close to the locals of the areas I visit. How do you approach designing a new piece or creating a new collection?

SALES JOHANNESBURGENQUIRIESUSADUBAI sales@jupitersjungle.com +27 (61) 503 6561WHATSAPP

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202232

JEWELLERY DESIGN

THROUGHOUT HISTORY, PEARLS HAVE BEEN among the most precious and desirable gems in the world. The way they are used, however, has evolved greatly from the classical designs that were popular just a few decades ago. SAJN asked Gina White what draws her to designing with pearls, what her other favourite materials are and her approach to creating a new piece or collection. You operate a full jewellery manufacturing office in Johannesburg. Tell us about Jupiter’s Jungle and how you came to design and manufacture jewellery.

Many contemporary jewellers can be credited with reinventing the perception of pearls for a new demographic of luxury consumers with their inspired designs. Renowned jewellery designer Gina White of Johannesburg-based Jupiter’s Jungle is not only a rough diamond analyst, but has also developed a very personal approach to working with pearls.

All my pieces must tell a story, have a connection or be inspired by a certain object. I like to begin with the real subject and then design based on that. What’s your favourite piece of jewellery that you’ve made? My favourite item is a pair of tanzanite and diamond earrings called the Akili, which was named after a close family member of mine.

My mother gave me my first pearl set when I was only seven years old. She often gave me pieces of jewellery with pearls in during my childhood and these were always very special and beautiful, hence my love for pearls today.

What has been the single most important jewellery-making skill you have learnt?

I don’t seek external reactions and approval, but depend mainly on internal validation to get things done in every aspect of my life. The small differences I try to make in people’s daily lives are my internal fuel to keep doing better.

What has been the greatest recognition of your career?

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 33 JEWELLERY DESIGN

The biggest challenges are time differences, as well as language, cultural and infrastructural barriers. Here in Africa, people are very conservative and tradition is important. It tends to take precedence over everything, even in business.

Rough diamond analysation. It’s a very important trade to understand in the value chain and is often skipped by many people in the industry because it’s a difficult course to study. Learning this skill gave me a lot of confidence. In addition, not many blacks or females have ventured into this field. What does a typical day look like for you?

I have quickly learnt to balance honouring tradition and working towards progressive change, which is needed in this industry. Being respectful of others’ boundaries is key to navigating Africa effectively, but it’s still a culture shock. What advice can you offer aspiring jewellery designers? Move as if no-one’s telling you “No!”

I travel a lot, so every day depends on where I am in the world. If I’m at home in the USA, I transform into a working mother. Once I’ve gotten the kids ready for school, I start focusing on my business, responding to e-mails, calls and text messages from my business relationships in many other countries. I also love cooking and keeping fit, so most of the afternoon is spent on those activities. What challenges do you face in your work?

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202234 RESPONSIBLE CULTIVATION, TYPES, IDENTIFICATION AND VALUATION

Among all gemstones, pearls are the only ones formed within living creatures. Women have always been fascinated by their various shapes and colours and the rich lore associated with them. The modern-day affordability and versatility of pearls have made them an important part of most women’s wardrobes and thus an essential component of a jeweller’s inventory.

The glorious pearl

• South Sea pearls

A natural pearl is formed when a substance called nacre is deposited around an irritant that has found its way into a mollusc. The irritant may be a grain of sand, a disease or a parasitic growth suffered by the mollusc. Saltwater natural pearls are formed almost exclusively in the mollusc genus Pinctada Freshwater pearls are produced by various clam and mussel species. For many centuries, the Persian Gulf was the world’s premier source of natural pearls. Very few are still available today, although they can sometimes be found in antique jewellery as small seed pearls in clasps and brooches or as a graduated string. Cultured pearls Most pearls that are sold today have been cultured by man. They are mainly produced at pearl farms located in saltwater lakes of Japan and China, in saltwater lagoons near the South Sea Islands and Australia or in freshwater rivers and lakes of China, the USA and elsewhere. Cultured pearls are grouped as either of saltwater or freshwater origin. Saltwater cultured pearls • Akoya cultured pearls (the Japanese word for “oyster” is “akoya”) At the end of the 19th century, Japanese scientists patented a technique whereby a piece of mantle tissue from another oyster and a bead of mother-of-pearl is surgically inserted into the gonad (the reproductive organ) of the saltwater Pinctada martensii mollusc. The host oyster is returned to the sea and after three to four years, a millimetre-thick layer of nacre has grown over the mother-of-pearl bead. These beads are then harvested, sorted, often bleached and/or coloured. It was, however, the zeal with which Kokichi Mikomoto and his son Yoshitaka promoted and produced high-quality cultured pearls up to the 1920s that changed the nature of the pearl Japaneseindustry.andChinese pearl farmers use the Pinctata fucata saltwater oyster to produce cultured pearls up to 10 mm in diameter. The Japanese Akoyas are considered superior and are more expensive than their Chinese and Vietnamese counterparts.

PEARL NaturalTYPESpearls

On the northern coast of Australia and around the Indonesian and Philippine islands, a goldlipped and silver-lipped variety of the Pinctada maxima oyster is used to cultivate large (1015 mm) saltwater pearls. South Sea pearls have grown thick nacre layers which impart a silky silvery to golden colour to them. Recently, golden-brown to chocolate colours have appeared on the market. Such intense colours are probably the result of a secretive staining process which pearl farmers have perfected.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 35 RESPONSIBLE CULTIVATION, TYPES, IDENTIFICATION AND VALUATION

• Tahitian pearls In the clean, warm ocean waters of the Polynesian Islands, the black-lipped pearl oyster, Pinctada margaritifera, is used to cultivate large (up to 18 mm) black and grey natural-coloured pearls. They are bead-nucleated and have thick black nacre layers which display beautiful secondary surface colours ranging from pink, deep purple and steel blue to bronze and silver. The black cultured pearls of Tahiti are among the world’s most expensive ones and are normally sold as individual pieces.

• Freshwater cultured pearls Since the 1970s, China has been a major producer of cultured freshwater pearls. They are cultivated by the insertion of a piece of mantle tissue into different types of freshwater mussels. This results in the formation of irregular pearl shapes which consist mostly of nacre and range from 2-10 mm in size. The earliest freshwater pearls looked like “Rice Krispies” and were often artificially coloured. Since the turn of the century, Chinese pearl farmers have succeeded in producing large and nearly round pearls by re-implanting a smaller first-growth pearl into another mussel. These pearls consist of more than 95% nacre and grow to 10-12 mm within a short period.

The term “baroque” describes any pearl with an irregular or asymmetrical shape.

RESPONSIBLE CULTIVATION, TYPES, IDENTIFICATION VALUATION

3200 BC. The jeweller can buy the entire shell or flat,

36 SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022

colourfulshell”Zealand,orient,Abalonehehe“blanks”rectangularfromwhichcansawtheshaperequires.shellhasastrikingespeciallythatfoundinNewwhichisreferredtoas“pauaor“rainbowabalone”.SouthAfricanabalonealsoproduceashellwhich,whenpolished,isused to manufacture inexpensive jewellery.

IDENTIFICATION OF NATURAL, CULTURED AND IMITATION PEARLS Natural vs cultured pearls One of the most difficult tasks of a jeweller is distinguishing between natural and cultured pearls.Because the surface layer of a natural and a cultured pearl is the same, it is difficult to

The term “mabé” refers to a dome-shaped, cultured pearl that grew on the shell of the oyster, from where it was cut and filled with a resin and glued to a base of mother-of-pearl. They are produced in round, drop, oval and heart shapes, mainly used as earstuds or pendants, and are less expensive than a normal round, cultured pearl of the same size and quality. Keshi pearls are nearly pure nacre and formed naturally in many cultured pearl oysters, without the insertion of a bead or a piece of mantle tissue. They vary in size from a few millimetres when formed in Akoya oysters to nearly a centimetre in South SeaAoysters.circled pearl displays one or more grooves or ridges that run right around it.

In 1917, Cartier reportedly traded a million-dollar strand of natural pearls for a six-storeyed building in Manhattan which became its New York headquarters –proof of the historical value of pearls!

Biwa pearls refers to cultured pearls that are grown in mussels in the freshwater lakes and rivers of Japan. Monster pearls are large, irregular fresh- or saltwater pearls, either of a natural or cultured origin, often used as individual pieces in designer jewellery. Mother-of-pearl

Unusual varieties Seed pearls are small off-round, natural pearls (1-2 mm diameter) often found in Victorian jewellery. Horsehair was used to string them because of the minute size of their drill holes.

Mother-of-pearl has many household uses, from buttons to inlays in furniture and musical instruments. An interesting use is for caviar spoons, as sterling silver or other metals (except gold) will impart a metallic taste to the caviar.

Pearl enhancements Most cultured pearls are either bleached and/ or stained to assist colour-matching. This can be identified by looking at the drill hole under magnification. Stain colourations can normally be seen in the nacre layer covering the bead. Some cultured pearls have had their lustre improved and blemishes removed by a polishing process; others may even be faceted.

see the difference if the pearl is not drilled. If it is drilled, look down the drill hole with a loupe and the thickness of the nacre layer of a cultured pearl can normally be seen. No line separating a bead and the outer nacre layer can be seen in a natural pearl. Candling is another method. An intense light source is used which is completely shielded in a darkened room. A 1 mm hole is made in the shield and the pearl slowly rotated in front of the light beam. If the striped nature of the mother-of-pearl bead inside the pearl can be seen, it is possibly a cultured pearl.

AND

The inner shell of fresh- and saltwater animals consists mainly of CaCO3 and often displays a pearly lustre and an iridescent effect. This shell is called mother-of-pearl and has been used for ornamental purposes since as far back as

Freshwater cultured pearls are also available in a variety of colours and shapes such as discs, cubes and other forms, depending on the shape of the second-growth implant.

Beware, though, because modern Chinese cultured freshwater pearls will not show the internal stripy Specialisedtexture.instruments, such as a pearl

4. Colour. The dominant colour (hue) of a pearl can vary from white to grey and black, from cream to brown to many other “fancy” colours. These basic colours are often enhanced by pink, yellow or greenish overtones. The surface of certain pearls displays a shimmer of rainbow colours. This optical effect is called “orient” and, if present, enhances the value of the pearl.

CULTIVATION, TYPES, IDENTIFICATION AND VALUATION

Pearl imitations Pearls have been imitated for centuries. Most pearl imitations are made by first producing a spherical glass or mother-of-pearl bead. The bead is then coated with a substance called “pearl essence”, which is made by mixing guanine (extracted from fish scales) with glue and a colouring agent. After a few layers of “essence” have been applied, the bead is polished and dipped in a chemical which hardens and protects the surface from chipping and discolouring. Identifying imitation (fake) pearls A famous test is done by gently rubbing the pearl on your front teeth. If it feels gritty, it is a cultured pearl; if it feels like plastic on your teeth, it is an imitation. This is not conclusive, however, as some imitations are produced with a gritty surface. Through a jeweller’s loupe, the drill hole of a cultured pearl shows the thin, often dark layer of conchiolin that separates the bead nucleus from the nacre. The edge of the drill hole is sharp and well-defined. The presence of blemishes and the specific orient of cultured pearls are diagnostic.Ontheother hand, the drill holes in pearl imitations show the ragged edges of the coating and often no separation between the glass nucleus and coating can be seen. The surface of imitation pearls is normally smooth and without blemishes. Imitation pearls are not as hard as cultured pearls. Pressing a needle on the surface of a fake pearl will leave a small hole, while a cultured pearl will show no needle damage.

2. Shape. This can vary from perfectly round (the most expensive) to semi-round, semibaroque to baroque.

7. Matching. The better a string or a pair of pearls match, the higher their value. In 1917, Cartier reportedly traded a milliondollar strand of natural pearls for a six-storeyed building in Manhattan which became its New York headquarters – proof of the historical value of pearls!

5. Surface markings. Very few pearls are perfect, with no blemishes visible to the naked eye. Blemishes can vary from pinpoint indentations or extrusions to noticeable characteristics that may cause the nacre layers to lift from the internal nucleus. The size and severity of blemishes will obviously affect the value.

1. Size (measured in millimetres). Larger pearls are rarer and thus more expensive.

37SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBERRESPONSIBLE2022

endoscope and an x-ray diffraction machine, are used by gem laboratories to positively identify natural pearls. An x-radiographic method, similar to the one used by dentists to take pictures of teeth, can be used to take an x-ray picture of complete strands of pearls. The thickness of the nacre layer is very obvious, while imitation pearls appear almost black in these x-ray photographs.

Valuation of pearls There are seven factors that are used to value pearls:

6. Nacre thickness. A thin nacre layer can peel or be damaged by perfume or hairspray, while a thicker layer normally results in a more durable pearl. However, it is not only nacre thickness that determines value, but also the translucency of the nacre layer, which is a prerequisite for a good lustre.

3. Lustre is a unique characteristic of pearls. It is the result of light being reflected from a multitude of nacre layers. The thicker and more transparent the nacre layers, the better the lustre (reflection) and the higher the value.

Stone of royalty Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services. For further information, visit: www.gia.edu. source of jadeite jade, spinel, zircon, amethyst, peridot and other fine gem materials. For more than 2 000 years, Sri Lanka has been a source of sapphires. The blue and fancy-colour stones mined from the alluvial gravels of this “jewel box of the Indian Ocean” can display remarkable brilliance and saturation. In addition, the island’s milky-white “geuda” sapphires can be heat-treated to a rich blue Thailandcolour.isboth a source of sapphire and a major cutting and treatment centre. In dense jungle crossed by dirt roads, miners dig for sapphire in Chanthaburi Province. Sapphires from Myanmar and Cambodia often end up in Chanthaburi for cutting and treatment and are also sent to Bangkok, an important gem hub. The stone is relatively hard, ranking 9 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage (a tendency to break when struck). This makes it a great choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear. Sapphires are often treated to improve their colour or clarity. Heat treatment is common – and the results permanent – so it is well accepted in the trade. Less common treatments such as lattice diffusion, fracturefilling and dyeing may require special care. In some cases, the colour induced by lattice diffusion is so shallow that it could be removed if the stone were chipped or had to be recut. Fracture-filled and dyed sapphires can be damaged even by mild acids like lemon juice.

THE SEPTEMBER BIRTHSTONE HAS traditionally symbolised sincerity, truth, faithfulness and nobility. For centuries, sapphire has adorned royalty and the robes of the clergy. The elite of ancient Greece and Rome believed that blue sapphires protected their owners from harm and envy. Clerics of the Middle Ages wore sapphires because they symbolised heaven. An cient Persians believed the earth actually rested on a giant sapphire, which made the sky blue. It was reputed to have healing powers as well. Medieval Europeans believed that sapphires cured plague boils and diseases of the eye, while serving as an antidote to poison. Famous sapphires include the Rockefeller Sapphire, a 62,02ct rectangular step-cut stone that was unearthed in Myanmar (Burma). Acquired in 1934 by financier and philanthropist John D Rockefeller, Jr (1874–1960) from an Indian maharaja, the gem was recut and remounted over the years. The sapphire was first set as a brooch and later as a ring featuring two cut-cornered triangular diamond side stones. Perhaps the best-known sapphire in recent years is the 12ct blue gem surrounded by diamonds in the engagement ring first worn by Princess Diana and then given by her son Prince William to Kate Middleton, who is now the Duchess of Cambridge. In addition to being the September birthstone, sapphire is the gem commemorating the fifth and 45th wedding anniversaries. Kashmir, Myanmar and Sri Lanka are three historically important sources for sapphire. Significant quantities of it have also been found in Australia, Thailand, Cambodia, Madagascar and Montana, USA, as well as in other Asian and African countries. Sapphires were discovered in Kashmir in around 1881 when a landslide high in the Himalayas exposed a large pocket of velvety “cornflower” blue crystals. As the spectacular sapphires began to appear farther south, the Maharaja of Kashmir – and his army – took control of the new locality. From 18821887, thousands of large, beautiful crystals were recovered. The stones faceted from these crystals established Kashmir sapphire’s reputation as one of the world’s most coveted gems. Production has been sporadic since then, but auction houses occasionally sell fine pieces of Kashmir sapphire jewellery. The Mogok area of Myanmar is another locale famed for producing the September birthstone. Jungle-clad hills hemmed by mountains make a dramatic landscape. Sapphire typically occurs alongside ruby deposits, but in much smaller quantities than its red counterpart. “Burmese” sapphire, as it is still called by many, sometimes has a rich, intense blue hue, which has made it particularly prized. Myanmar is also a noted The September birthstone is sapphire – a gem which has been cherished for thousands of years. Although the term “sapphire” usually refers to the blue variety of corundum (ruby is the red variety), this birthstone comes in a rainbow of other colours too.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 39 SAPPHIRE: THE SEPTEMBER BIRTHSTONE

Tsavorite, spessartite, rhodolite, pyrope and demantoid are all part of the garnet family and have become very popular choices.

Many people these days are looking for a less expensive or more unique engagement ring alternative to the traditional diamond. SAJN asked Adine Lutz of Ajanta Afrika about other options and important factors to bear in mind. Tell us about Ajanta Afrika. Ajanta Afrika has been supplying the jewellery trade with quality precious- and semi-precious gemstones, beads and unconventional diamonds since 2006. Although we’re based in Cape Town, our stones travel all over the country and beyond. We choose to work only with natural stones, meaning no synthetics or coated stones. Our offering is extensive. After so many years in the business – and our almost obsessive love of stones – our range just keeps growing and we’re able to offer almost everything customers could want in colour stones. Our all-female team is fast, efficient, friendly and always ready to assist. Why have people begun opting for alternative gemstones instead of the traditional diamond when designing or choosing an engagement ring? People have certainly started breaking with age-old traditions, as we live in an era when everything’s possible. People are now choosing their birthstone or favourite colour, or following any inspiration when choosing a gem for their engagement ring. The days of believing that a diamond is the most precious – or only – option are definitely over. I believe everyone should have a beautiful engagement ring – whether they can afford a precious stone and precious metal ring or not. So, given the tough times we’re living through at present, budget is a major factor.

However, we’re finding that even if there’s no budget constraint, there’s certainly a trend towards more unique and colourful gemstones. A flawless white diamond’s hardness, and therefore its durability, have been very important reasons for being chosen. Its lustre, which gives it its sparkle, has always brought happiness to romance. But there’s also a wonderful world of coloured diamonds to consider, if budgets permit, such as the warm hues of brown diamonds, from champagne to cognac and cappuccino to espresso. There are also yellows, blues, pinks, greens, black or salt andIfpepper.it’suniqueness rather than colour that people are after, it’s worth noting that unusual shapes are also available. We’ve seen beautiful designs becoming very popular in the past few years using shapes like kites, hexagons and half-moons, to name a few. What are important factors to consider when choosing a diamond alternative? Knowing your client’s work habits and hobbies. Since an engagement ring is worn most of the time, you should choose a

Another very popular stone is morganite, which is an absolute classic, as well as aquamarine. Tourmalines are also popular and if your client’s looking at a paraiba or cuprian type, you should let them know that these can be pricier than a diamond.

Emerald is a very special stone, but needs a little more care due to its natural structure. It’s very hard, as part of the beryl family, but due to its natural inclusions, it could be more prone to damage.Tanzanite should also be considered for the more cautious client and for those who’re price-conscious, there’s a world of colour offered by quartz and similar stones such as amethyst, peridot and citrine, as well as the fantastic shades of topaz, to name but a few. Some clients might also prefer more opaque stones like turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, black spinel and obsidian. The world of gemstones really is amazing and incredibly vast in its options.

stone that suits their lifestyle. Durability and hardness are also very important characteristics to consider. What are some of the most popular diamond alternatives? There are many! The majestic ruby, sapphire and spinel, as their hardness is excellent and precious gems are very sought after as engagement ring stones. The colour range is vast, from shades of yellows, greens, blues, pinks and reds to grey, white and orange.

Alternative gems to consider for engagement rings

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 202240 COVER FEATURE: AJANTA AFRIKA

 There are reports of a real diamond and sapphire necklace on board the Titanic, but with a completely different story from the one in the movie. The necklace was reportedly owned by Kate Florence Phillips and was given to her by her lover, Henry Samuel Morley. The pair were secretly sailing on the Titanic with the purpose of starting a new life together. Kate was wearing the necklace when the Titanic sank and she made it to Lifeboat No 11, while Morley – who couldn’t swim – died in the ocean. It is also widely believed that the Heart of the Ocean is based on the Hope Diamond, a blue diamond of exceptional size. The Hope Diamond is said to be cursed, as it supposedly brought unhappy fates to those who owned or wore it.

 According to a famous legend, wanting to win a bet with Marc Anthony, Cleopatra claimed she could host the most expensive dinner in history. At the time, she was known to own two of the largest pearls in existence, which she wore as a pair of earrings. She ordered her servants to obtain the most powerful vinegar available and dissolve one her pearls in the solution. She then proceeded to drink what could be seen as the most expensive cocktail ever made.

41SA JEWELLERY NEWS - SEPTEMBER 2022 DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts  Pearls symbolise wisdom acquired through experience. They are believed to attract wealth and luck, as well as offer protection. The pearl is also said to symbolise the purity, generosity, integrity and loyalty of its wearer. Thus, pearl jewellery is the go-to for any bride. It takes at least six months to produce a pearl. Sometimes the development process can last as long as 24 months. The type of lighting used to illuminate a gem can affect the color and quality of colour we see. Some consider natural daylight to be a standard. However, daylight can vary, depending on geographic location and time of day. A stone viewed in natural daylight in one location may look different when viewed in daylight in a different location. In various cultures all over the world, it is believed that gems have extraordinary power and healing properties. There was a belief that a gemstone could emit energy and it had to be used carefully to avoid any unwanted harmful effects. Red beryl, also known as red emerald, is so rare that for every 150 000 diamonds, one red beryl is mined.

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Silver Linings fabulousness!Nowserving withwin Storybook ADT210022 SAJN Cover image V3.indd 1 4/20/21 2:03 PM R36,00 (incl VAT) MAY • Pearl quality 101 • From humble beginnings to bespoke jewellery designer• How to market across generations S A Jewellery News servingthe diamond andjewendustry93 Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd T: 011 883 www.isikhova.co.za4627 SEPTEMBER 2022 jewellerynewsSA Gemstone sector set to boom WE LOOK AT Who has their paws in the oil jar?Gina White on pearls and jewellery 94celebrat ngyears COLOURED GEMSTONES & PEARLS The6Csofcolouredgems 1 THE SA JEWELLERY BRANDS PORTFOLIO 1. SA JEWELLERY NEWS (SAJN) Official magazine of the Jewellery Council of South Africa PrintMonthlyandonline 2. JZA – YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE SA’s first and only, dedicated consumer-retail magazine Online 3. SA JEWELLERY NEWS ‘CONNECT’ BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY THE industry’s quick reference and smart go-to guide connecting the South African diamond and jewellery industries. Autumn/WinterSeasonalandSpring/SummerPrintandonline 4. JEWELLERY BIZ NEWS (JBN) Distributed electronically, JBN features the latest developments in the jewellery and associated sectors – both locally and E-newsletterWeeklyinternationally.

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