Pro View 名家專欄
Henry Chen 鐘錶收藏與評論家 henry@webbox.com
“2010年鐘錶市場綜覽” from Henry
就像年初在SIHH展場上一樣，在2010
自製機芯
年巴賽爾珠寶鐘錶展上，「中國」這個
在石英革命之前，自製機芯幾乎是機械
字再度成為諸多話題濫觴的引爆點。
錶黃金年代的重要象徵。各種不同市
「中國」一再被提起、討論、甚至被放
場區隔的品牌至少都會自製一款基礎機
在飯桌上當佐餐的甜點，中國這個似乎
芯，以保持機芯製造者的屬性。如今拜
未完全與世界接軌的市場從2000年起
電腦輔助設計及精密電腦加工進步之
就成為廠商關注的重要市場，即使美日
賜，品牌雇用新一代製錶師，自行製造
等先進工業國家經濟衰退，市場消費疲
機芯已經成為主流。品牌為了產品競爭
軟；但在中國，斯渥琪瑞表集團2010年
力而急著研發自製機芯，但產品可靠度
2月的單月銷售額仍然創下歷史新高，
以及銷售服務的腳步卻趕不上行銷活
見證了精品鐘錶銷售在中國仍然銳不可
動；當然，部分收藏家的確只專注於錶
擋！
的科技程度以及突破性，卻不在乎可靠 度以及長期維修服務的問題。
鐘錶趨勢
但越來越多的品牌選擇在開發自有產
在頂級瑞士錶品牌裡，變動最劇烈的
品時，專注在產品精準性、可靠度以及
當屬Zenith，這家推出全球首款自動上鍊
耐久力。儘管現下仍無法確定消費者到
計時機芯「El Primero」的資深品牌去年
底重不重視機芯的自製程度，但新一代
執行長換了人，讓它再度走回踏實的傳
的傳播管道很明顯地會讓資訊更透明，
統錶廠路子，產品線由原本讓人眼花繚
傳統上鮮少提及的產品可信賴度也會漸
亂的800款降低到150款，而其中絕大多
漸成為行銷上必須強調的焦點。
數都與數十年前品牌聲勢如日中天時所 推出的經典產品有關。 2009年奢華及大複雜功能錶的產業走
網路如今被視為影響精品消費行為的最
向很明顯地被「傳統」以及「樸實」所
主要工具，特別在像是金磚四國的新興
取代，新崛起的趨勢似乎是挽救鐘錶產
市場裡行銷通路還不可能普及，利用網
業危機的最佳處方。重要的頂級品牌展
路線上詢價及購買產品的舉措與在實體
出了復刻自經典款式的作品，簡單顯示
通路一樣受到各界矚目，最後更可能成
時間的單純錶款被再度推出看似百花齊
為決定消費與否的重要因素。歷峰集團
放的市場，以便得到顧客的信任感。
在4月份決定買下在全球170個國家擁有
回溯各頂級製錶品牌的根源，創造
IWW www.iwatchome.net
消費客戶的英國線上零售商Net-A-Porter
詩意、純粹以及強調悠久歷史已經成為
就是虛擬與實體精品店之後抗衡的重要
今年錶展裡的主流作法，展場裡所有巨
里程碑，隨著全球金融危機遠颺，擁抱
型鐘錶集團旗下的知名品牌幾乎一體凜
兩種通路同等重要。
遵，不敢有違！
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網路
Pro View 名家專欄
Henry Chen 鐘錶收藏與評論家 henry@webbox.com
“Preview 2010” from Henry
Like the red carpet show held during January in the wintery City of Calvin, ‘China….China’ also seems to be the buzzword or Eldorado for executives in the important spring trade show, Basel World 2010. The magic word is heard, discussed & then drank a toast to under the roof of Messe Basel, skepticism of bubble economy in the middle kingdom since the millennium is now being welcomed by realism of euphoria, even despite the setback in leading markets like the U.S. & Japan, luxury watch sales seems unstoppable and effervescent as reflected by record month sales posted by The Swatch Group in FEB 2010!
Watch Trends
The most daunting repositioning of venerable prestigious brand is found in Zenith, the premium watchmaker that shown the world first automatic fast-oscillating el Primero chronograph. The company took an unprecedented turnaround since the departure of flamboyant impresario last year by transforming the Le Locle-based brand into a bona-fide traditionalist. The avoirdupois product pyramid underwent drastic makeover from 800 blingedout references to just 150 symbolic models associating with brand’s illustrious golden days. Prevalence of ostentatious & mega complication of last year is dominated by ‘traditionalism’ & ‘authenticity’; as it seemed to be best quick fix to the crisis. Important brands are showcasing their savior-faire by proudly paying homage to their historical models; timekeeping pieces with significant chapters in their archive are reconstructed and recreated to reaffirm their equity in the crowed market. Theme of poetic, purity & provenance became emblem to re-discover the brand’s haute horology root, and the trend is felt throughout luxurious brands of major groups throughout the show!
In-house Movement
Proprietary movements were the norm of the golden era prior to quartz crisis, as companies of different segmentation built at least one base caliber to claim the title
24
IWW www.iwatchome.net
manufacturer. The movement (pun intended) of fabricating an in-house caliber is now back at full swing at current generation of watchmaker thanks to state-of-the-art CAD & CNC technology. As brands rush to develop in-house movement for their own interest, the issues of reliability and after-sales service is often kept off from marketing, as certain collectors are only valuing for technical feats and breakthrough, and weighing less perception on reliability, let along on serviceability in the long term. But more and more manufacturers are choosing to focus on core value of accuracy, reliability and longevity when developing or producing of their own caliber. It is still uncertain if bona fide consumers value the importance of proprietary caliber, but new generation of communication tool should heighten the transparency and authenticity of watch making tradition to the less informed, and guide them through maze of marketing jargon.
The Internet
The Internet is now considered the primar y tool influencing consumer behavior on luxur y watches, especially in BRIC market as distribution network still hasn’t reached all prospec in emerging market. On-line enquiries became an alternative to brick-and-mortar retail network to build up awareness, and may ultimately lead to cognitive purchase. The trend led Richemont Group to purchase Net-A-Porter in April; an On-line luxury e-tailer based in the U.K. w/customer base of over 170 countries, it is an important milestone for both entities as the market are to embrace both brick-and-mortar corporate boutique and e-tailer as we gradually recover from the crisis.