Jacob Alexander Designer File
Designer File Spring 2018 Ready-To-Wear
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CONTENTS 4
ADEAM
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Dries Van Noten
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Dsquared2
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Gabriele Colangelo
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au jour le jour
John Galliano
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Mugler
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Valentino
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KENZO
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Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
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ADEAM
The Designer: Becoming a ashion designer wasnt always Hanako Maeda’s goal in life. While attending Columbia University in New York Cty, Maeda filled her time taking fashion interships. Balancing her studies in Anthoropolgy and Art History while also developing her skills and passion for the fashion industry proved to be an intense battle, yet her desire to keep designing led her to start ADEAM in 2012. Maeda finds inspiration from her home in Toyko and from her time spend in New York. Her collections have displayed a nice marriage between the connectivity of fashion and art. The Collection: Following the trend Maeda has set out for her self, this collection is another reinvention of ADEAM’s aesthetic. Being inspired by the Soho neighborhood in Hong Kong, China, Maeda pairs exquisit pleating and paneling with soff, moving fabrics. The amount of precision and care each garment receives is easily detectable and Maeda’s construction skill set this colletion aprart from others showing in New York this season.
Born: Tokyo, Japan Eduction: Columbia Univeristy, New York City, NY Company Details: info@adeamonline. com
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ADEAM 7
Sheer Ruffle Top
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ADEAM 9
Dries Van Noten
The Designer: Fashion has been a main influence in Dries Van Noten’s life since childhood. Having a father who owned a menswear shop and a grandfather who was a tailor, Noten knew early he wanted to make his own name in the industry. His first collection graced the runway in London in 1986, acting as the catalyst that would eventually bring his collections to the US. Noten only designs ready-to-wear collection and believe that there really is little value in haute couture; “I’m a little naive but I don’t like the idea of showing things that you don’t sell in a store,” Noten stated in a recent interview with Vogue. The Collection: Noten’s Spring 2018 collection stayed true to character, tantalizing show attendees through his masterful use of color, prints, and layering. For this collection Noten embodied the many way women can capture nightlife through their closets. The runway sparkled with sequin embellishments and stacked high- shine silk. Bold prints and thematic references to the 90’s make this collection translate from night to day and is a perfect example of how a designer can show his customer what they didn’t know they needed.
Dries Van Noten
Born: May 12, 1958 Antwerp, Belgium Eduction: Royal Academy of Fine Arts Company Details: Godefriduskaai 36 200 Antwerp +32 3 221 90 90 info@driesvannoten.com
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Dries Van Noten 13
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Dsquared2
The Designer: In 1983, Canadian Twins Dean and Dan Caten began their fashion careers after a brief stint of study at Parsons School of Design in New York City. Returning home to Toronto, Ontario, the brothers began their own label, DEanDAN. Having worked as creative directors and designers for brands like Tabi, Gianni Versace, and Diesel, the Caten Twins began Dsquared2, their namesake brand. The Collection: This eclectic collection brings together various styles and motifs, all while screaming one main theme - sex. Print combinations of leopard and Hawaiian flowers are mixed with leather jackets and baker boy hats. Overwhelming western buckle work is superbly styled with boy scout blouses. Intense layering of natural looking fabrics and metal hard wear establishes an undeniable ying-yang effect building off of the pairing of hardness and softness. This collection logically displays an overloading of the senses and is an irrefutable representation of the brand aesthetic the Caten brothers have unassailably made their own.
Dean and Dan Caten
Born: December 19, 1964 Toronto, Canada Eduction: Parsons School of Design Company Details: 1-855-324-7779
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Dsquared2
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Dsquared2
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Gabriele Colangelo
The Designer: Gabriele Colangelo as thrown into the fashion i ndustry from birth. Coming from a long line of Italian bespoke fur shop owners, Colangelo knew the importance of proper craftmanship from a long age. As the winner of a styling scholarship from the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, Colangelo began his career as a denim designer for the Versace Jeans Donna line. In 2008 Colangelo namesake label launched and has been a wonderful example of his blood given gift for outstanding caftsmanship. The Collection: Colangelo’s SS 2018 collection departed from his normal overly styled approach to design. Using a more minimalistic eye, this collection displays organic looking leather like garments with well thought out style lines. Shape and tesuter are the focus of the garments which add perfectly the artsy level of conceptual design Colangelo held as a main design gol for this session’s collecion. Cotton tops peek out of the tops of reinvente d over coats and trouser enhancing the noticeable experimentation between masculine silhoute and feminine styling.
Gabriele Colongelo
Born: February 27, 1975 Milan, Italy Company Details: enquiries@purplepr.com London: +44 (020) 7439 9888 New York: +1 212 858 9888
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Gabriele Colangelo 27
au jour le jour
The Designer: Both Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana took indirect routes to their current design positions at au jour le jour. Both men graduated University with degrees in Civil Engineering and Business administration before deciding to change paths and begin focusing on design. As the brain child label of Giorgio Armani, Marquiz and Fontana received Armani’s guidance in design while incorporating more modern techniques of advertising and pattern construction. Both are greatly influenced by graphic design and are known for using social media as a way of communicating to the public on collections and runway showcasing. The Collection: This is collection rooted in functionality. The co-designers turned to garment construction as the focus of this collection. Totes bags are attached to various seams through out the collection as a way of creating a more hands free fashion experience. Belt and backpack buckles replace traditional garment accessory closures, further solidifying the goal of function with fashion. The use of graphic lettering is displayed on exposed tags and shirt front keeping to the label’s graphic design influence.
Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana
Born: Marquez: 1978 Fontana: 1983 Company Details: PRESS - So Sweet PR aujourlejour@sosweetpr.it info@sosweetpr.it Tel. +39 02 49529721
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Backward T-shirt and Layered Dress
au jour le jour
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au jour le jour
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John Galliano
The Designer: Following his graduation from the Bartlett School of Architecture at the University College of London, Bill Gaytten took a job at the couture house, Victor Edelsetin where his interests were redirected and fashion became his priority. Soon after, he became John Galliano’s left hand man, following him from label to label. With no permanent replacements for Galliano’s position at Dior or his namesake label, Gaytten would step in for the interim before being given the permanent positions. His first collection for Galliano debuted in 2011 and was followed by his debut for Dior in 2012, before having the permanent Dior position filled by Stefano Pilati. The Collection: Slip dresses and tailored suits dominated the runway for this SS 2018 collection. Between looks featuring sheer calf length dresses and bold color interactions, vintage inspired prom like gowns moved down the catwalk with an edgier flair, solidified through the teased and coiffed hairstyles and harder, tougher accessory accents.
Bill Gaytten
Born: 1960 Cheltenham, England Education: Bartlett School of Architecture at University College London Company Details: +33 (0) 1 48 87 92 40 contact@johngalliano.com
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John Galliano 37
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John Galliano 39
Mugler
The Designer: David Koma, a Georgian native, is a London based designer currently the creative director of the well-established Mugler label. Koma has always been greatly talented in regards to his design skill and level of conceptualization. At the age of 15, his school in Saint Petersburg showcased Koma’s first collection. This set the quick paced nature of his career. Only four years after completing his Masters in Fashion at Central Saint Martin in 2009, Koma was announced as the new creative director for the House of Thierry Mugler. The Collection: Sculptural silhouettes are the show-stopping element of Koma’s SS 2018 Mugler collection. Featuring exaggerated corseted waistline, oversized folded front hems, and form fitting tops, this collection tricks the eye. As a balancing element to the corseting and boning, colorful chiffons and metallic detailing were wonderful additions in the progression of the collection. The addition of these featured colors is out of character for Koma but is refreshing to see break up the monotony of Koma’s design safety blanket - the corset.
David Koma
Born: Tbilisi, Georgia Education: Central Saint Martins Company Details: info@mugler.net
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Mugler
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Mugler
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Valentino
The Designer: It is hard discuss the partnership of Pierpaolo Piccioli and Valentino without bringing in a third party - Maria Grazia Chiuri. Piccioli and Chiuri met while attending Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome. After graduation the duo worked independently before being approached by Valentino in 1999 to design a collection of accessories that would capture the essence of the house. When Valentino retired in 2007 the duo stepped in as co-creative directors. Now Piccioli directs the house alone as Chiuri has moved on to Dior. The Collection: The common theme unifying the Valentino SS 2018 collection is space age, otherworldly, glam. With a direct influence from aerial photograph of earth from outer space, Piccioli wanted to bring a modern flair to vintage glamour. Pulling from vintage Valentino silhouettes, shiny sequins and plastic bonded fabrics add a contemporary layer to shift dresses and floor length gowns reinterpreted from the house’s past. Utilitarian detailing in pockets and accessories elevate the collection, transcending the potential “stale”-ness of recycled shapes.
Pierpaolo Piccioli
Born: Rome, Italy Education: Istituto Europeo di Design, Rome, Italy Company Details: Vit Turanti 16/18 - 20121 Milan – Italy Telephone: +39 02 624921 Fax: +39 02 62492584
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Valentino 49
Mixed Texture Drop Wasit Gown
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Valentino 51
KENZO
The Designer: Carol Lim, a Boston native, and Humberton Leon, originally from Los Angeles, are the current co-creative directors for the France based brand. Lim and Leon began their partnership in 2002 when founding the retailer Opening Ceremony in downtown Manhattan. Development of the Opening Ceremony brand continued with more stores opening their doors in New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo and London. In 2011 it was announced that Lim and Leon would be taking the reigns at Kenzo. The Collection: This season’s SS 2018 collection was presented as a two act performance like showcase, where Act 1 features the garments of the menswear line, and following intermission, Act 2 displayed the rest of the label’s collection, women’s wear. Playing with the influence of the past on the future, the women’s line presented oversized shirting and structured double-breasted blazers. The collection was optical illusion heavy stimulating the senses and adding an element of visual movement that accompanied the layered looks nicely. The presentation featured only Asian models, as the main inspiration for this collection was the love story of fictional muses coming from the Asian continent.
Carol Lim and Humberton Leon Born: Lim: February 20, 1975 Boston, Massachusetts Leon: June 7, 1975 Los Angeles, California Education: University of California, Berkeley Company Details: +33 (0)1.73.04.20.58 Telephone: +39 02 624921 Fax: +39 02 62492584
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KENZO
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KENZO
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Andreas Kronthaler for
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood The Designer: Vivienne Westwood is a British fashion designer known for catalyzing the development of the modern punk and new wave fashion movements. After having developed her own career and namesake brand from a few garment being sold at Malcolm McLaren’s boutique SEX, Westwood is now creative collaborator with her Austrian husband Andrea Kronthaler. Kronthaler was Westwood’s assistant as well as a designer for his own smaller label. In 2016, Westwood passed majority of creative control to Kronthaler who now acts as the label’s creative director. The Collection: With extreme textures, high production value, intricate and outlandish styling, and elements of sheer shock value this collection made a lasting impression. Inspired by the cattle fields in Tyrol, Austria, the garments are literally and more symbolically related to the couple’s time vacationing in the country. Yet, like all Westwood collection, sex is a huge player in design influence as well. This pairing of concepts is seen the opened chests of the tunics and button downs, the disheveled dresses and contemporary dirndls. Intense use of pattern, detailed embroidery, and excessive fringe tie the sexy silhouettes back to cattle in the Austrian countryside.
Andrea Kronthaler and Vivenne Westwood Born: Westwood: April 8, 1941 Tintwistle, United Kingdom Kronthaler: March 11, 1952 Erl, Austria Company Details: 44 Conduit St London W1S 2YL Telephone: 0044 207 439 1109 Email: conduitrm@viviennew estwood.com
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Vivienne Westwood
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Vivienne Westwood
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