Portfolio Creative Industry Practice Jane Dungate DUN14416680 BA(Hons) Fashion Contour
S/S 17 THE BRIEF To design a capsule collection of lingerie, loungewear or nightwear for the plus size market targeted at Spring/Summer 17. I have chosen to design my collection for B by Ted Baker which is an exclusive collection for Debenhams by Ted Baker London.
1
S/S 17 “Debenhams is a leading international, multi-channel brand with a proud British heritage which trades out of over 240 stores across 27 countries. Debenhams gives its customers around the world a unique, differentiated and exclusive mix of own brands, international brands and concessions.” (Debenhams UK clothes, accessories, beauty, furniture & gifts, no date). Debenhams has a long history on the British High Street. It was founded by William Clark in 1773, as a draper’s store in London. In 1813, he partnered with William Debenham and the store was renamed Clark & Debenham. The name changed to Debenhams in 1905 (Debenhams, 2015).
Fig 1. - Exterior of Debenhams, Oxford Street.
Over the past 20 years, Debenhams has been creating a portfolio of designers to work with them to create their ‘Designers at Debenhams’ brand. (Debenhams UK - clothes, accessories, beauty, furniture & gifts, no date).
In June 2013, Debenhams underwent a £40million makeover to transform the exterior of its flagship store on London’s Oxford Street (Prynn, 2013). This was done in a bid to make the store stand out from its competitors on the busy shopping street; the new look with the moving aluminium panels was to make people stop and look at the store, and then hopefully make them come inside and spend (Debenhams, Oxford Street - evolve, 2015). Debenhams stocks its own range, its ‘Designers at Debenhams’ ranges and also buys in concession ranges from other brands. In the lingerie department online, it stocks 71 brands. For plus size lingerie (DD+) it stocks 27 brands, however, not all of these brands are available in store. The designers in their ‘Designers at Debenhams’ portfolio are: B by Ted Baker; Reger by Janet Reger; and Reger Noir by Janet Reger; Floozie; Ultimate; and Spirit. Debenhams’ own plus size range is called Gorgeous. These ranges cover band sizes from 32-40 and cup sizes from A-G, however, they are looking to go to an H cup in the Gorgeous range. Each brand aims at a different customer so that they cover women of all ages and different lifestyles. Fig 2. - Interior of Debenhams, Pasig City, Manila.
2
S/S 17 Debenhams identified their own competitors as: Marks & Spencer; BHS; Asda; and Tesco. I also identified House of Fraser and Selfridges as other competitors because they are also High Street department stores. As this marketing matrix shows, Debenhams is one of the more expensive stores to buy lingerie from, this is due to some of their bought in brands being expensive, however they aren’t as expensive as House of Fraser or Selfridges. In terms of style, Debenhams is also one of the more sexy stores to shop in. Debenhams’ aspirational competitors would be brands like Ann Summers, Victoria’s Secret, Playful Promises, L’Agent, Agent Provocateur and Myla.
Fig 3. - M&S Logo
Fig 4. - BHS Logo
Fig 5. - House of Fraser Logo
Fig 6. - Selfridges Logo
Fig 7. - Asda Logo
Fig 8. - Tesco Logo
Fig 10. - Victoria’s Secret Logo
Fig 11. - Playful Promises Logo
Fig 13. - Agent Provocateur Logo
Fig 9. - Ann Summers Logo
Fig 12. - L’Agent Logo
Fig 14. - Myla Logo
3
S/S 17 These graphs below show the results I got due to responses from a survey I conducted using Survey Monkey. Other information I gathered showed that M&S was the most visited shop by fuller bust women, followed closely by Victoria’s Secret and Bravissimo. These women were also looking for bras that were comfortable, whilst giving a good shape and support with a smooth line. They also wanted their bras to be at a good price point with most of them spending between £10-£30 on a bra.
4
S/S 17 These are a few examples of Debenhams’ best selling fuller bust bras. The best selling styles are full cup and balcony.
Fig 15. - Gorgeous Full Cup Bra
Fig 16. - Gorgeous Balcony Bra
Fig 17. - Gorgeous Full Cup Bra
These are a few examples of B by Ted Baker’s best selling fuller bust bras. The best selling styles for B by Ted Baker are also full cup and balcony.
Fig 18. - B by Ted Baker Balcony Bra
Fig 19. - B by Ted Baker Balcony Bra
Fig 20. - B by Ted Baker Full Cup Bra
5
S/S 17 After researching existing products at Debenhams, and using my survey responses, I conducted an informal interview with Sabine Gruchet who is a plus size model and is a fit model for Papaya. I asked Sabine what she thought made a good bra, this was her response: “Support, Lift, shape and colour. I don’t like bras that flatten, I what a sexy bra even though bigger size, I like the look of a push up bra with more support.nice round shape, matching sets.” (Gruchet, 2015). She also mentioned that “Briefs have to be higher waist which draw you in to give you an hourglass shape” (Gruchet, 2015) which was very important to her, and that moulded bras give good lift and shape. Polka dots and floral patterns were also very flattering. She sent me a link to a few photos of her in her favourite sets for Papaya which are shown below.
Fig 21. - Sabine Gruchet for Papaya
6
Fig 22. - Sabine Gruchet for Papaya
Fig 23. - Sabine Gruchet for Papaya
S/S 17 My friend, Allie Krystal, is a blogger for plus size fashion, and she sent me to her blog post about the Spring Preview 16 for Addition Elle which is a Canadian plus size clothing chain to help me with my research. In her post she makes the following statements: “Their Balconette is my favourite bra in the world” and “I also love the little bralettes in PASTEL COLOURS. We had them in the summer last year and they were really popular, so I’m glad they’re back.” (Krystal, 2015). Below are some photographs posted on the blog of the lingerie collection.
Fig 24. - Allie Krystal A.K.A Ailurophilewithstyle
Fig 26. - Addition Elle lingerie
Fig 27. - Addition Elle lingerie
Fig 25. - Allie Krystal wearing Addition Elle
Fig 28. - Addition Elle lingerie
7
S/S 17 The following images show the best-selling lingerie for B by Ted Baker, and some existing products from Ted Baker’s womenswear range which show that print appears in a lot of their designs. I will use print in my designs.
Fig 29. - Balcony Bra
Fig 30. - Plunge Bra Fig 35. - Sleeveless Top
Fig 31. - Briefs Front
Fig 32. - Briefs Back
Fig 33. - Briefs Front
Fig 34. - Briefs Back Fig 38. - Dress
8
Fig 36. - Camisole
Fig 37. - Top
Fig 39. - Dress
Fig 40. - Dress
S/S 17 The following images show existing products from M&S and BHS, who I have identified as B by Ted Baker’s main competitors in terms of design. I have collected images of non-padded, full cup, balcony and plunge bras to show the range of styles and how they have used them for their plus size ranges.
Fig 41. - M&S Logo
Fig 42. - Non-Padded Bra
Fig 43. - Full Cup Bra
Fig 44. - Balcony Bra
Fig 45. - Plunge Bra
Fig 47. - Non-Padded Bra
Fig 48. - Full Cup Bra
Fig 49. - Balcony Bra
Fig 50. - Plunge Bra
Fig 46. - BHS Logo
9
S/S 17 BRAND
PROFILE Age: 20 - 40 She reads: Elle, Glamour, Vogue, Evening Standard, ES Magazine Celebrity: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Abbey Clancy, Adele
WHAT THE BRAND IS - Contemporary styles with classic cuts - Print focused with feminine designs - Premium fabrics, such as top quality silk and lace WHAT THE BRAND ISN’T - Cheap, throwaway fashion - Bondage and strapping - Trend focused COMPETITORS - French Connection - Whistles - Reiss 10
WHAT SHE LIKES/WHERE SHE GOES - Weekend breaks in Europe - Cocktails and meals out - Long holidays in tropical places, e.g. the Caribbean, the Maldives. - Pampering herself with beauty treatments at the salon - Spa breaks with her significant other - Going for Afternoon Tea WHAT SHE DISLIKES - Camping and hiking - Cheap quality clothing - Anything too trend focused OTHER PLACES SHE SHOPS - M&S - Selfridges - John Lewis - Zara
S/S 17
Fig 53. - Beauty Treatments Fig 52. - Cocktails
Fig 54. - Afternoon Tea
Fig 51. - Abbey Clancy
Fig 56. - Elle
Fig 55. - Adele
Fig 57. - ES Magazine
Fig 58. - Vogue
Fig 60. - Nicaragua Fig 59. - Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
Fig 61. - Budapest
11
S/S 17 Key lingerie styles from WGSN include crossover styles, cutaway briefs, sporty push up bras, bandeau and skimpy side briefs forecasted for S/S 17. For loungewear, camisoles and wide legged cropped pants will be key styles.
Fig 62. - WGSN Range Plan
12
S/S 17 These boards are taken from WGSN showing different trends for S/S17. I will be taking inspiration from the Encounter Culture - Exotic Erotic trend board and Edgelands - Home Front trend board. These trends use tropical prints and high waisted and structured pieces.
Fig 63. - WGSN Mood & Colour Board
Fig 64. - WGSN Pretty Vintage Set
Fig 65. - WGSN Material & Detail
Fig 66. - WGSN Range Plan
13
S/S 17 These photos are of B by Ted Baker’s full cup underwired purple floral DD+ bra in a size 36F. They show the structure, details and components in making a DD+ bra.
On the inside of the wire casing it says designed to B loved, Ted x
The bra has a scoop back with 2.2cm wide shoulder straps. There are rose gold coloured slieders on th shoulder straps.
The features a 4 piece cup, with one of the pieces acting like a sling from the wire line to the apex. Inside, the cup pieces are lined with nylon stabiliser.
14
S/S 17
There is a B by Ted Baker label attached at the back on the outside of the bra where the hooks are attached.
At the centre front on the bra there is a rose gold coloured metal by hanging from a little bow.
The print on the cup goes all the way up to the apex and shoulder strap.
The print on the bra is inkjet printed onto a polyester satin. 15
S/S 17 Fig 69. - Parrot
Fig 67. - Jungle Fig 68. - Perfecto Magazine
Fig 73. - Print
Fig 70. - Leaves
Fig 71. - Birds of Paradise
16
Fig 72. - Hanging Chair
S/S 17 Fig 76. Dinner Party Fig 74. -Tea Party
Fig 77. - Bird Cage
Fig 75. - Hanging Cages
Fig 78. - Tea Pot
Fig 79. - Flowers
Fig 80. - Hanging Flowers
17
S/S 17
18
S/S 17
19
S/S 17
20
S/S 17
21
S/S 17
22
S/S 17
23
S/S 17
24
S/S 17
25
S/S 17
26
S/S 17
27
S/S 17 Bibliography
28
S/S 17
29
S/S 17 Image References Debenhams Logo - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Debenhams.svg (accessed: 20/01/2016) B by Ted Baker Logo - http://www.debenhams.com/lingerie/b-by-ted-baker (edited on Photoshop) (accessed: 20/01/2016) Ted Baker Logo - http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/c/category_womens (accessed: 20/01/2016)
Page 2 Fig 1. - http://www.evolveuk.biz/portfolio_page/debenhams/ (accessed: 20/01/2016) Fig 2. - http://www.philstar.com/fashion-and-beauty/2015/03/13/1433200/photos-heres-whats-inside-13000-sq.m.-debenhams-store (accessed: 20/01/2016)
Page 3 Fig 3. - http://logodatabase.net/marks+spencer+logo (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 4. - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:BHSLogo.svg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 5. - http://www.houseoffraser.co.uk/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 6. - http://4vector.com/free-vector/selfridges-co-63764 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 7. - https://plus.google.com/100331927284434130754/posts/Df2RzbUw4Xj (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 8. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tesco_Logo.svg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 9. - http://www.annsummers.com/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 10. - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Victoria%27s_Secret_logo.svg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 11. - http://blog.playfulpromises.com/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 12. - http://www.lagentbyap.com/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 13. - http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/magazines/elle-mexico/editorials/october-2011/la-femme-provocateur-2288/brands/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 14. - http://ww1.prweb.com/prfiles/2013/08/30/11077924/Myla.jpg (accessed: 25/01/2016)
30
S/S 17 Page 5 Fig 15. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_150010221460_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 16. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_150010138160_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 17. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_150010221480_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 18. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010420605_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 19. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010539808_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 20. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010539503_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016)
Page 6 Fig 21. - http://www.papayalingerie.com/gallery/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 22. - http://www.papayalingerie.com/gallery/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 23. - http://www.papayalingerie.com/gallery/ (accessed: 25/01/2016)
Page 7 Fig 24. - https://www.instagram.com/p/2JI67lwBz_/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 25. - https://www.instagram.com/p/_F2mf6QByj/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 26. - http://ailurophilewithstyle.com/2015/12/addition-elle-spring-2016-preview/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 27. - http://ailurophilewithstyle.com/2015/12/addition-elle-spring-2016-preview/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 28. - http://ailurophilewithstyle.com/2015/12/addition-elle-spring-2016-preview/ (accessed: 25/01/2016)
Page 8 Fig 29. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010630443_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 30. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010634605_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 31. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010539703_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 32. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010539703_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 33. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010542194_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 34. - http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010542194_-1 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 35. - http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Tops-T-shirts/c/category_womens_clothing_tops-t-shirts (accessed: 20/01/2016) 31
S/S 17 Fig 36. - http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Tops-T-shirts/c/category_womens_clothing_tops-t-shirts (accessed: 20/01/2016) Fig 37. - http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Tops-T-shirts/c/category_womens_clothing_tops-t-shirts (accessed: 20/01/2016) Fig 38. - http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Dresses/c/category_womens_clothing_dresses (accessed: 20/01/2016) Fig 39. -http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Dresses/c/category_womens_clothing_dresses (accessed: 20/01/2016) Fig 40. -http://www.tedbaker.com/uk/Womens/Clothing/Dresses/c/category_womens_clothing_dresses (accessed: 20/01/2016)
Page 9 Fig 41. - http://logodatabase.net/marks+spencer+logo (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 42. - http://www.marksandspencer.com/floral-non-padded-underwired-minimiser-full-cup-bra-c-g/p/p22427108?prevPage=plp (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 43. - http://www.marksandspencer.com/jacquard-lace-underwired-dd-g-bra/p/p22069554?prevPage=plp (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 44. - http://www.marksandspencer.com/2-pair-pack-large-spotted-non-padded-balcony-bras-dd-gg/p/p22354339?prevPage=plp (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 45. - http://www.marksandspencer.com/2-pack-padded-underwired-plunge-t-shirt-dd-g-bras/p/p22235725?prevPage=plp (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 46. - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:BHSLogo.svg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 47. - http://www.bhs.co.uk/en/bhuk/product/women-1020590/bras-1020684/dd-bras-1020753/red-floral-print-satin-non-padded-dd-g-bra4917955?bi=1&ps=40 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 48. - http://www.bhs.co.uk/en/bhuk/product/women-1020590/bras-1020684/dd-bras-1020753/red-and-gold-jacquard-and-lace-underwired-ddg-bra-4784958?bi=1&ps=40 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 49. - http://www.bhs.co.uk/en/bhuk/product/women-1020590/bras-1020684/dd-bras-1020753/evans-sophia-blossom-printed-bra5202251?bi=1&ps=40 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 50. - http://www.bhs.co.uk/en/bhuk/product/women-1020590/bras-1020684/dd-bras-1020753/ProductDisplay?swatch=2305128513&catalogId =34096&storeId=13077&productId=19673410&langId=-1&categoryId=471244&parent_categoryId=471112 (accessed: 25/01/2016)
Page 11 Fig 51. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201874122/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 52. - http://dress-this-way.tumblr.com/post/91158267837 (accessed: 28/01/2016) Fig 53. - http://www.refinery29.com/korean-multi-masking-beauty-trend#slide (accessed: 28/01/2016) Fig 54. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201953114/ (accessed: 31/01/2016) 32
S/S 17 Fig 55. - http://jetblackheart.tumblr.com/post/133549661955 (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 56. - http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/rosie-huntington-whiteley-elle-uk-february-2015-cover.jpg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 57. - http://o.aolcdn.com/hss/storage/midas/8915d37636db46cd17fe3cce1483ca6/201749498/katie.jpg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 58. - http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/268x353/k_n/kknightley_VogueJan11_cover_2dec10_624_268x353.jpg (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 59. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201874107/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 60. - https://www.flickr.com/photos/sexylexiforyou78/8555480683/ (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 61. - http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/07/10/european-cities-visit-in-your-twenties_n_5504944.html?ncid=edlinkushpmg00000055 (accessed: 25/01/2016)
Page 12 Fig 62. - WGSN (accessed: 07/01/2016)
Page 13 Fig 63. - WGSN (accessed: 07/01/2016) Fig 64. - WGSN (accessed: 07/01/2016) Fig 65. - WGSN (accessed: 07/01/2016) Fig 66. - WGSN (accessed: 07/01/2016)
Page 16 Fig 67. - https://www.flickr.com/photos/chongkin/7111705003/ (accessed: 18/01/2016) Fig 68. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201818711/ (accessed: 21/01/2016) Fig 69. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201818768/ (accessed: 21/01/2016) Fig 70. - http://elisemesner.tumblr.com/ (edited on Photoshop) (accessed: 21/01/2016) Fig 71. - http://nicdelmar.tumblr.com/post/116779266453 (accessed: 18/01/2016) Fig 72. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201897756/ (accessed: 27/01/2016) Fig 73. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201711001/ (accessed: 18/01/2016)
33
S/S 17 Page 17 Fig 74. - http://www.intimateweddings.com/blog/diy-dyed-doilies-tutorial/ (accessed: 18/01/2016) Fig 75. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201710950/ (accessed: 18/01/2016) Fig 76. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201818755/ (accessed: 21/01/2016) Fig 77. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201710933/ (accessed: 18/01/2016) Fig 78. - http://www.youandyourwedding.co.uk/ideas/mood-boards/wedding-themes-by-nationality/20560.html (accessed: 25/01/2016) Fig 79. - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368201710878/ (accessed: 18/01/2016) Fig 80. - http://flowerona.com/2013/05/rhs-chelsea-flower-show-2013-floral-artist-rebecca-louise-laws-stand/ (accessed: 18/01/2016)
34
S/S 17
35