Viva Vino - The Wines of New Mexico

Deborah Damery Lazear, CSW

New Mexico is famous for its art, its food (Hatch chiles), and weather. Now, it is becoming well known for its wine. There are three AVAs (American Viticultural Area) in New Mexico. Mimbres Valley AVA, designated in 1985, is located in southwestern New Mexico near the towns of Deming and Silver City. Most vineyards are planted at between 4000 ft. and 6000 ft. elevation. The area is a desert (9 inches of rain a year) but irrigation and the deep, rich soils of the once-larger Mimbres River has made viticulture possible since the late 19th Century. Mimbres Valley is the largest of the three AVAs and boasts the largest vineyard too; Lordsburg Vineyard with more than 200 acres planted to Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Mourvedre.

The next largest vineyard is owned by Paolo D’Andrea, who arrived in New Mexico in the early ‘80s to help plant the original Gruet Winery near Truth or Consequences. Luna Rossa Winery has a spectacular array of Italian vinifera (Ribolla Gialla, Aglianico, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Barbara, Sangiovese, Refosco, Montepulciano and Negro Amaro). Try their new sparkling wine made in the Prosecco style from the Ribolla Gialla grape. Also well known is La Esperanza Vineyard and Winery, a 600 acre ranch which has been in the Gurule family since 1906. See this vineyard by appointment only. The best place to overnight is Silver City with historic hotels like the Murray Hotel and the Palace Hotel. Try the farm-to-fork restaurant, the Revel. The Silver City Wine Festival takes place mid-July. Check it out at www.nmwine.com. Middle Rio Grande Valley AVA follows the course and valley of the Rio Grande River and covers nearly 280,000 acres around Santa Ana Pueblo southwest of Santa Fe, down and around Albuquerque. Red wines are made from Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah while white wine is made from Viognier, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer. Grapes have been grown here since the arrival of Spanish missionaries in 17th Century, predating California. Prohibition stalled the business, but by 1970 things were up and running again. The altitude of the vineyards at 4500 ft. to 6500 ft. allows for a cooling that keeps the acidity in the fruit and the flavors fresh. Another bonus of the area is the dry desert climate which largely eliminates the risk of fungal vine diseases such as powdery mildew.

Vineyards of note are Casa Rondena, Jamarillo, and Milagro Vineyards (in nearby Corrales). This AVA is also home of the famous house of Gruet. The firm began when French wine maker Gilbert Gruet was visiting Southwestern USA and he heard about the 17th Century vineyards of New Mexico. Learning that grapes were once again growing in the old mining community of Engle, near Truth of Consequences, he paid the region a visit. The rest, as they say, is history. Gruet makes sparkling wine in the Methode Champenoise style from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Consider Corrales, about 14 miles north of downtown Albuquerque and 2 miles west of I-25 as your base. Farm-to-table restaurant Casa Vieja will not disappoint. The Chocolate Turtle B&B has lots of charm.

Mesilla Valley AVA runs on either side of the Rio Grande from Radium Springs across the Texas border to El Paso. Las Cruses is the center point. This is a dry, hot region and their wine is rarely seen outside New Mexico. The most important red grapes grown here are Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Sangoivese, Tempranillo,and Syrah. White grapes are Muscat Blanca and Riesling. The AVA was established in 1985. Its highest altitude is 4300 ft. with a significant diurnal swing (difference in temperature between the day and the night). This allows for the grapes to grow in what otherwise would be a hostile environment. The Mesilla Valley gets only 10 inches of rain a year, most of which falls in the eastern, higher portion on the slopes of the Franklin Mountains. Additionally, breezes funneled along the Rio Grande help to temper the extreme climate. The soil is free-draining sand, clay, and loam.

Check out the Mesilla Valley Wine Trail in Las Cruces. It features 10 local wineries, including the well known St. Clair Winery and La Viña Winery. Also visit Amaro Winery and Heart of the Desert Winery. Sign up for a personal tour at the D.H. Lescombes Winery & Bistro in Las Cruces. The tour can last several hours and includes a visit to the vineyard, the St. Clair Winery in Deming (Mimbres Valley AVA), and a tasting back in Las Cruces. For those who prefer beer, visit the NM Vintage Wines, Beers + Cigar store located in an 1850’s vintage building and ranked the #1 Wine Bar in the State. It serves tapas (small plates) to go along with your wine or beer tasting. Salud!