J'N'C Magazine 4/2017

No 70 /4-2017

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JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION

DENIM NOW STYLES GALORE TOWARDS A GREENER FUTURE

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Editorial

J'N'C t o p i C s

DENIM ToDay for a bETTEr ToMorrow

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INspIraTIoNs for sTrEET aND sporTswEar

Designers who switch labels at the drop of a hat, copycats, a lack of imagination … In the midst of all this fashion chaos, how are we supposed to find our way around the excessive choices currently being proffered to us by the fashion labels? More and more luxury brands seem to be losing their essence, with single collections that are as diversified as the product palette of a supermarket. Oversaturated and jaded, we find ourselves stumbling from it-piece to it-piece – fashion can certainly be a stress factor these days.

But thankfully the traditions of denim offer a certain consistency in the scramble of short-lived hypes. Independent of trends, long-lasting, timeless and sustainable – denim makers, designers and brands are working tirelessly on the evolution of this popular fabric. New cuts, washes and fits are guaranteeing a wealth of favourite jeans to suit every taste. After all, there are no rules left to break!

Denim is also playing the leading role in this issue of J’N’C: from page 30 author Björn Lüdtke is revealing where the denim design journey will be taking us next season, from page 36 we’re showcasing the summer 2018 trends by international denim manufacturers, and from page 46 we’re talking to designers about their take on the “blue gold”.

PLUS: The hottest pieces for SS 2018 – Top sneakers and street style looks – Tradeshows: the must-attend events – Inspiration: deconstructed looks on the runways and streets.

We hope you enjoy reading this new issue – and keep on dressing to express yourself!

Thorsten Osterberger

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Contributors

Vitali Gelwich photographer his work can be found in magazines like Crack and highsnobiety, for J’N’C he produced this issue's cover shoot, featuring the latest trends by international denim manufacturers – staged in his Berlin studio, analogue and black-and-white.

Julie Nagel photographer toronto, rio and hamburg are just some of the places Julie Nagel has lived and worked. her hamburg home district of Wilhelmsburg, nicknamed Willytown, served as a backdrop for her fashion production. the result is just like the hood itself: authentic and cool.

Attila Hartwig photographer the classic work by the renowned still-life photographer always manages to cast a spell on the observer. our fashionable “Most Wanted” pieces were the perfect subjects for Berlin-based attila, who has also taken photos for magazines like Sleek and aD.

contents 12

EDITORIAL

16

BITS & PIECES NEWS ON BUFFALO, S.OLIVER, WOLFGANG JOOP & CO.

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30

34

The evolution of denim

36

46 City slacker

52

62

70

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most Wanted essay: denim noW DENIM INSPIRATIONS: DECONSTRUCTION LOOKS

fashion shoot: the evolution of denim INTERVIEWS: BRANDS TO WATCH

fashion shoot: from head to toe TRADESHOWS AUTUMN / WINTER 2018

fashion shoot: city slacker 10 QUESTIONS: GIANLUIGI & ALBERTO CANDIANI

cover

Photography: Vitali Gelwich Styling: Fabiana Vardaro Model: Laura Sörensen

Publisher EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Liesegangstraße 16 40211 Düsseldorf Germany

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Tel. +49 (0)211.830 30 Fax +49 (0)211.830 32 00 info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de

Brands to watch

editorial dePartment Chausseestraße 116 10115 Berlin Germany editor-in-chief Thorsten Osterberger t.osterberger@jnc-net.de art director Ivo Wojcik

Publishing management Nikola Köster

chief subeditor Cloat Gerold

associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

editor Cheryll Mühlen

editing assistant Nils Jürgens, contributors Bianca Fleisch, Björn Lüdtke, Jean-Noël Teschauer, Fabiana Vardaro PhotograPhy Vitali Gelwich, Attila Hartwig, Suzana Holtgrave, Julie Nagel translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de

advertising director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211.830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de coPy editors Cloat Gerold, Galina Green logotyPe design Martin Steinigen/chewing the sun

bank details BTV Bank für Tirol und Vorarlberg AG IBAN DE25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 SWIFT BTVADE61XXX Price Germany 12.50 EUR Rest of Europe 14.00 EUR Switzerland 18.00 CHF Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern

Data Protection Notice: In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The sub scriber can appeal against this guideline. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases Düsseldorf.

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TExT Jean-noël Teschauer

BitS

&

pieces DrEAmSCApES

SkYwAlkEr Eytys Heavily inspired by street styles, the footwear label is focussing its attention on a comeback of the platform heel in SS 2018. The Swedish design team are all about functionality and an urban aesthetic.

Their “Angel” sneaker, a masculine lace-up, is also unisex and already one of our firm favourites for the coming season.

Eyt yS.cOM

FAAN Founder Aaron Jacobson expresses his love of architecture in his designs, in which loose silhouettes meet clear constructions and cuts. FAAN experiments with classic and minimalist designs; their credo is unisex. The entire production cycle takes place in Cleveland, Ohio, where they use exclusively local resources.

FAANwArE.cOM

A CUT ABOVE Marco Scaiano For SS 2018, the Berlin newcomer label is designing minimalist styles in black, white and grey. Some of the pieces boast cut-outs, meaning that wearers of these stringent architectonic designs will be inadvertently flashing the flesh. The result is an exciting mix of sportswear, classic elegance and urban flair.

MArcOScAiANO.cOM

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B YOU

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lET iT flOw

Liebeskind Berlin Inspired by Berlin’s uncomplicated style and perfect for any occasion: Functional and minimalist, the B Bag is a homage to the German capital.

Clear graphic elements contrast with the soft leather of the bag, which is versatile enough to suit your every need – whether casually slung across the shoulder, on a bike or as a stylish accessory for the evening.

S.Oliver Active The sports line by the s.Oliver Group is a response to the growing sport and athleisure movement – a mix of activewear and urban fashion for active women. As well as bras, leggings and tops, the collection also includes jackets that are divided into the categories Energy (Running), Core (Gym) and Flow (Yoga). As well as in selected s.Oliver stores in Germany, the sports line is also available online or from exclusive partners like Zalando.

LiEBESkiNd-BErLiN.cOM

SOLivEr.dE

BitS & PiEcES

SCAnDi CODES Ellen Pedersen Since 2015, the Danish menswear label has been providing us with elegant, tailormade sportswear. Thanks to innovative tailoring techniques, the brand is experiencing success on an international scale. As well as accessories, polos and sweats, the range also includes outerwear – inspired by English subculture and Danish minimalism. Stripes are the overall theme of the SS 2018 collection, making an appearance on jackets, sweaters, socks and trousers in blue, white and grey.

ELLENPEdErSEN.Eu

rAin AnD ShinE Palladium For SS 2018, the French footwear brand is collaborating with designer Christopher Raeburn. The result is a functional unisex shoe collection made from recycled materials. Very convenient: depending on the climate, the modular-style Pampa Relaeyer with elasticated heel strap lets you insert an inner shoe into the sandal, which is made of organic cotton with PET inners.

PALLAdiuMBOOtS.cOM

EASTBOUnD MiSBHv For the upcoming season, the Polish ready-to-wear label is combining influences: the raw, cool club culture of Eastern Europe with the colourful vibes of Western Europe in the 80s. Tailormade training suits, skin-tight cycling jerseys, cropped letterman college jackets and oversized raincoats form a kind of technotailored hybrid with emotional details.

MiSBHv.cOM

LOOkS by wolfgang Joop Joop’s new contemporary line is opening itself up to a mainstream audience, thereby forming a counterpart to his high-fashion label Wunderkind. International street styles are important sources of inspiration. The vibe of Berlin in particular is reflected in his designs: the DNA of the collection is “casualwear meets readyto-wear, street meets evening”.

Our favourite: wide head-to-toe denim looks with futuristic sandal sneakers. Every three months you can look forward to collections comprising around 40 new pieces.

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DEnimOCrACY!

LOOkS.dE

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BitS & PiEcES

BiG SErVE Björn Borg Swedish tennis legend Björn Borg presented his latest “Signature” collection of vintage-inspired sportswear during Stockholm Fashion Week.

As well as training suits in vibrant primary colours like blue and red, the reinterpreted classics feature a sporty stripe pattern and retro details on clothing and accessories. Modern fabrics are catapulting the looks of the past into the future and celebrating the return of 70s tennis styles.

BJOrNBOrG.cOM

ASiAn riOT

hYpEr hYpEr Buffalo The 90s fashion revival inspired the German shoe brand to re-release their cult model “Buffalo Classic” which will be making a comeback in black and white. Future plans: Under the auspices of designer Patrick Mohr, a second label, Buffalo London, is set to appeal to a younger urban target group.

BuFFALO.dE

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liGhTEn Up! dr. denim The Swedish brand has long since proven that quality and design can be affordable. As well as classic denim in different fits, washes and cuts, their product palette also includes urban it-pieces and accessories that can be compiled in countless different ways. High street looks are combined with the ultimate timeless fabric in this fresh declaration of love to our perennial blue favourite. drdENiMJEANS.cOM

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undercover Founder Jun Takahashi is taking the Japanese label back to the 80s. Particularly eye-catching are the tartan patterns and destroyed looks.

Subcultural codes of the punk movement collide with an androgynous aesthetic. The designer’s sources of inspiration include the Sex Pistols and Joy Division, as well as the cult movie “Clockwork Orange”. uNdErcOvEriSM.cOM

THE NEW DAWN of DENIM

The most ethical, sustainable & beautiful denim on the planet.

Orta Blu Spring Summer 19

moST wanTED J'n'c Presents

newbalance.com

EyEcatchEr It-PIEcEs Must-havEs FavourItEs

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text Cheryll Mühlen

Production ThorsTen osTerberger

IRISH FUDGE PhotograPhy ATTilA hArTwig

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1 The trend colour ochre seams to be simply made for the classic silhouette of the U520BF sneaker by New Balance. The U520 has its origins in 1970s Ireland, but for the modern version it has been given an upgrade with the addition of breathable mesh – a plus in terms of style and comfort. Its narrow outline and the details inspired by the prototype manage a perfect blend of old and new.

From Sunday 11 to 14 February 2018 DENIM FOR EVERY SEASON

Paris, Le Bourget , France www.texworld.messefrankfurt.com

2

thecords.com

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KIllInG mE SoFTly

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Swedish label The Cords & Co. was only launched this august but we’re already fans. and it’s all in the name – the designers work exclusively with corduroy, a fabric, which was once reserved for royalty. The mission of founder mikael Söderlindh is “to have people all over the world rediscover their love for corduroy!” Six new stores, an online shop and collaborations with names like alpha Industries and Eastpak as well as DJ Harvey should help him achieve his goal. our favourite: the eyecatching women’s trousers Sofia Poppy Red.

pe-nation.com

3

If the athleisure trend has blessed us with one thing, then it’s australian brand P.E Nation. like no other, the newcomer label knows how to combine street and sportswear elements with high fashion. which is why the multicoloured sports bra Centre Crop with sparkling details deserves a place on our “most wanted” list. made of high-tech polyamide elastane it promises excellent support and happens to look sexy at the same time – even when it’s peeking out of a blouse.

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PERFECT TRIanGlE

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Patches + jeans + jacket = trend. It’s a simple equation. But don’t say we didn’t warn you: there’s a very fine line between cool and patch overdose. no need to worry here though as the men’s jacket Till light marble Embro has been made by the professionals. The team behind Dutch denim label Kings of Indigo is responsible for designing this key piece, which boasts retro cartoon visuals for the SS 2018 season and is a refreshing, fun addition to the sometimes far too serious menswear offer.

kingsofindigo.com

moST wanTED

PaTCH IT UP!

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S E LV E D G E R U N

Tra de s h ow fo r qu a l it y ga r m en t s a n d c ra fted go o d s

N° 06

January 16 — 18 — Marshall-Haus Messedamm 22 14055 Berlin

2018

Accreditation at www.selvedgerun.com

lecoqsportif.com

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THREE CHEERS

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Romilly-sur-Seine is a French commune that has been the home of prestigious brand Le Coq Sportif since 1882. In honour of its impressive heritage and to embody its savoir faire, the label has brought out the Tricolore hoodie collection. The triple-layered hoods in the characteristic Le Coq Sportif colours symbolise protection (red), security (white) and mystery (blue). The Tricolore 1882 hoodie cleverly combines the primary colours with the more subtle hue of camel.

ISPO Munich.

Home of sports.

Get your ticket now: ispo.com/munich/ticket

Experience tomorrow’s trends and fabrics at the biggest multisegment trade show in sports business. ispo.com/munich

Save the date: ISPO Munich 2018 January 28–31

moST wanTED

HanDlE wITH CaRE

6

These traditional bags from Portugal are certainly highly coveted: pretty much every model is already sold out. So “most wanted” is meant quite literally here! But that doesn’t mean you can no longer get your hands on one of these reed bags like the Tom Tom Red large by Heimat Atlantica – handmade by craftswoman Celeste. order yours by sending an email to the label or simply drop by VooStore in Berlin: the concept store not only stocks on-trend designers, but also many sought-after niche brands.

heimat-atlantica.com

SAVE THE

DATE # B L U E ZO N E M U N I C H

B L U E ZO N E M U N I C H / W W W . B L U E ZO N E M U N I C H . C O M

Denim

text Björn LüdTke

Denim

now Closed

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Look no further – we have all the looks for the upcoming summer season. Keywords: deconstruction, irony, athleisure and volume. However, there is one development that goes deeper than the surface: the tendency for a slower pace in consumption

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Fashion is obsessed with revivals.

In the noughties, hipsters rediscovered the bold charm of the 80s and, reliably, in the second decade of the new millennium, we started digging for inspiration

in the 90s. they are two decades we simply can’t seem to leave behind. More than ever, fashion is a collage and reflects the technology of our time – we copy and we paste. We pick the best of the

past to make it our own in the present.

In spring and summer 2018 looking back in time will be significant.

Daniel Peterburs, CPO at Mustang, on the silhouette: “We were inspired by the 80s and 90s and have created high-waisted vintage looks. In this context, straight and wider silhouettes are also becoming important.”

At Wrangler, designers are leaning towards the 80s. their Snow Wash (a wash not dissimilar to what was infamously referred to back then

Denim

With this trend, the big question is whether you want to buy your jeans already looking worn in, or if you want to buy them new and wear them in yourself. the former has been around for a while and is expected to linger for a little longer, at least commercially. Denham, Gabba and Dr. Denim are continuing to go down the classic path of distressing their jeans with bleaching, fading and ripping.

Closed is playing this trend in a more graphic and geometric way: a pair of ladies’ jeans have a faded line on the front leg, as if you fell asleep with a magazine in your lap in the sun for a little too long. the back panel of a jacket for men is treated in a similar way and shows a rectangular pattern of different degrees of faded denim.

Dry Denim anD soliDs Daniel Peterburs from Mustang: “Innovations in stretch will remain a strong topic. Dual core denims for women bounce back and therefore wear out less easily.

Warp stretch denims for men that stretch only vertically, not horizontally are also important. However, fabrics are tending to become more solid again.”

Whereas in the recent past customers didn’t seem to have the patience to break in their denims by simply wearing them, this is a trend that is coming back. Solids often come as dry denim – on which you leave your marks over time. Kings of Indigo’s tony tonnaer: “We are seeing that the heavily damaged and destroyed jeans will have to make a little room for the dry denim trend.

A good trend if you ask us because dry denim hasn’t been washed, which makes it the more sustain-

“RegaRding sustainability,

PumP uP The volume Yes, skinny fits are still popular (read: commercially successful).

According to Alexander Graah from Dr. Denim, super-stretch slim is “always spot on”. On that note, Wrangler is introducing the Strangler for men: “For men, Wrangler is driving the millennial conquest by introducing the Strangler fit. Sat below the waist, it fits snugly on the legs all the way to the ankle. Strangler is the skinniest fit we ever had for guys, it’s a fit that’s tight on the hips and all the way through the leg to a very narrow hem opening. the advancement of high elasticity denim fabric which maintain a masculine character is key for the Strangler fit to have that razorslim silhouette with an authentic jeansy look and feel.”

However, looser fits are on the rise, and seemingly not only on Instagram, but also on the high streets. Morgan Sundberg, Design Manager at Nudie, tells us: “At Nudie Jeans, the look for spring 2018 is more loose-fitting, on the one hand a clean, yet rustic look in Drys, and First Step Worn-Ins in blackened Japanese indigo, on the other hand Worn-In Authentics, in replicas from actual light shade worn-in jeans.”

Kings Of Indigo founder tony tonnaer agrees: “Slowly the regular and loose fits are being picked up, more by women than men, but women are always a bit earlier.

We are seeing a real shift from the skin-tight styles to a more relaxed fit with a wider silhouette gaining ground, especially in women’s denim.” For women, KOI are presenting their most contemporary take on denim in the shape of the currently so popular culotte.

Alexander Graah from Dr. Denim shares his favourite relaxed styles for the season with us: “Our contemporary mom-fit Nora and her narrow sister Pepper for the ladies and the cropped blogger favourite Otis for the gents.” Styling advice? “All of these represent the leg length of the season. I actually wouldn’t call it cropped, as that would be a design statement.

Instead it simply looks a bit too short, which is a super interesting styling element and highly conscious choice.”

The BiggesT innovaTions aRe the ones invisible to the eye, like saving

a huge amounT of waTer when weaving the denims”

embellishmenT Speaking of decades, we had pat-ches and biro drawings for political statements in the 70s, badges and metal studs for eman-

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The worn-in feel

MOrG A N S uNDberG Nudie

able option. the beautiful thing about wearing an unwashed, dry denim is the fact that you make your own personal imprint when wearing it and it lasts way longer.”

Dr. Denim

as “moon wash”) is an original 80s Wrangler denim that’s been revived from the archives. Deep twill lines in the authentic denim means the protruding ridges of the twill are lightened when treated, while the furrows remain dark, creating a strong visual contrast on the surface of the jeans.

Designs at Dr. Denim, on the other hand, are leaning towards the 90s, says the label’s co-founder Alexander Graah: “I think that fun and irony are back in fashion.

Logos, experiments with dimensions, normcore and the 90s are just a few examples. As always, for spring there is a clear sense of fresh air, maybe more than ever for the upcoming season. At Dr. Denim this means a sporty vibe with a slight retro touch and a clear focus on the clean and comfy.”

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susTainabiliTy Sustainability will also remain an important keyword in the world of denim. Morgan Sundberg from Nudie: “the biggest innovations are the ones invisible to the eye, like saving a huge amount of water when weaving the denims.” the strategy at Wrangler: “We adopt fabrics that achieve the same classic blue denim look while reducing the amount of water and energy used in the dying and finishing process of the fabric. In the laundry we mix traditional bleaching products with ozone and laser to lessen the impact of the treatment. the water used in the laundry is processed and cleaned, and the people creating the washes are protected from any exposure to harmful chemicals.”

Wrangler has used more than 1,500 metric tonnes of sustainable cotton since 2015: that is enough to make 5 million pairs of jeans.

Also, they have saved more than 3 billion litres of water since 2007 – that is sufficient water to meet the annual household needs of more than 21,000 people.

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slowing Down

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Sustainability does not only come from more eco-friendly production methods, but is also a result of a more mindful consumption.

ALexANDer GrA AH d r. d eNim

“Fun and iRony are BaCk in Fashion”

whaT’s nexT? Not only designers are pushing ideas and innovations but also the denim manufacturers. Dr. Sedef uncu Aki, General Manager at Orta Anadolu provides us with an insight on future developments: “Orta aims to lead the industry towards its own Denim 4.0, by passing the small steps of just being a little bit more sustainable and leading with more natural, advanced technologies. Our aim is to create a more robust denim ecosystem where art meets technology meets ethics for new infinite possibilities of denim today and tomorrow.

For SS 2019, one of our concepts is Glam-tech, where High Street meets Sci-fi tech. Another concept that we’re excited to share is biocharge – intelligent denim infused with an innovative combination of minerals designed and medically proven to refresh muscles with the energy you need to get through the day, while helping support muscle regeneration to reduce stress or tension.”

You know what they say, trends come – and they also go. Some go sooner, some stay longer. With denim, the overall trend seems to be “stay longer”: revivals that we never get tired of; fashions that last longer than one season; solid, unwashed denims that need weeks and months to be broken in. In a world that seems to be turning faster and faster on its axis, we are starting to understand that style doesn’t end with a season or needs to be constantly renewed, but is something that evolves over time.

Wrangler

Kings Of Indigo

Denim

cipatory toughness in the 80s and the ironic retro logo t-shirt in the 90s. Pretty much all of these seem to be making a comeback for SS 2018 – sans the social undertone, for pure pleasure. embellishment is a trend that has been pushed by denim manufacturers for a couple of seasons now, and the labels seem to be following suit. It’s a playful trend that might cater to a younger audience as it certainly provides good Instagram fodder.

Alexander Graah from Dr. Denim: “I like the fact that we are starting to see an effect on the overall mindset of society, even in fashion. It seems like things are finally starting to slow down a bit, which is also being reflected in the materials. the 100 percent cotton trend is here to stay, a fabric that needs a bit more patience to find its perfect shape and form around the body but once it does, it’s truly your new best friend. I think it’s both interesting and inspiring to see things having a much less hectic pace.

Denim has always been about having a sustainable style and jeans are never going to go away.

It’s nice to see that the soul of denim is starting to spread across the industry in general and we are clearly seeing that even customers are asking for it. It’s about finding your style and sticking to it. Saying that, I hope we can all work together to create even more structures that focus on a sustainable future.”

InspIratIon

transformers RunWAy tRenDs

Deconstruction: Designers are reworking classic Denim Pieces

1

5 2

3

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Deconstructed denim: cut-outs, torn knees, ruptured seams or different coloured patches define the new look.

On the AW 2018 runways labels like OffWhite (1), Damir Doma (2), J. W. Anderson (3), Alex Mullins (4) and Balenciaga (5) presented the diversity of the trend.

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InspIratIon

Creativity meets classics: deconstructed denim pieces translated into eclectic styles by the urban crowd. skirts, trousers, shirts, dungarees and overalls feature a faux DIy look.

4

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mix anD mismatch: unique Denim styles worn by international Fashionistas

Denim inspirations

stReet style

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fashion

The Evolution of Denim

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Fabric, Feel, Fit and look in 2018: the state of the art of Denim goes hand in hand with the innovations advanced tirelessly by international manufacturers

photography Vitali Gelwich 36

styling Fabiana Vardaro

fashion 70

laura: JackeT Baykanlar , Jeans on Top Baykanlar , Jeans underneaTh BoSSa

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fashion 70

ToussainT: JackeT US Denim , Jeans CanDiani

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fashion 70

carl: JackeT US Denim , shorTs & Jeans Baykanlar , sneakers ConverSe

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fashion 70

carl: leaTher JackeT Jarow @ eCole BoUtiqUe , underwear atelier aBoUt, Jeans orta anaDolU

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fashion 70

laura: JackeT Baykanlar , Jeans on Top Baykanlar , Jeans underneaTh BoSSa

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fashion 70

ToussainT: TankTop SChieSSer , JackeT orta anaDolU , Jeans CanDiani ,

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fashion 70

leisure panTs atelier aBoUt, socks Falke, sneakers reeBok

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fashion 70

laura: oVeralls US Denim

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Production: Sophie Kรถchert; Styling: Fabiana Vardaro @ Basics Berlin; Styling Assistant: remz carter; Photo Assistant: Simon Schreiner Hair & Make-Up: Kalle eklund; Models: laura b. Sorensen, toussaint ishimwe, carl hjem

ToussainT: JackeT Jarow @ eCole BoUtiqUe , Top & Trousers aDiDaS , shoes Dr. martenS

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fashion

Five Fellas G e e s t h a c h t, G e r m a n y

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Denim branDs

watch

Brands to watch

INTERVIEWS by ThorSTen oSTerberger & cloaT gerolD

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Five Fellas CEO Oliver Schultz teamed up with four international denim experts to stir up the world of jeans.

Why is denim such a perennial favourite in the fashion world?

A unique fabric that lives and ages with us and develops its personality the older it gets. Our favourite jeans keep on getting better over time because they tell an individual story.

Do you orientate yourself on classic designs?

It’s essential that we look back, understand the history and be inspired by it. Our aim is to achieve a balance between heritage and contemporary.

What's your USP and what makes your jeans unique?

The united aspirations, passion and craftsmanship of five international denim experts.

A completely new finishing concept based on a classic ageing process: our jeans are available in four grades of ageing – 6, 12, 24 and 36 months.

A new fit concept: each of our four ladies’ and men’s cuts are based on the same bottom shape, only the different leg style defines the silhouette.

We produce using traditional handcrafted methods, using as few natural resources as possible, thereby guaranteeing the highest degree of sustainability. We treat our employees, suppliers and partners with respect and appreciation.

Our jeans are only available from selected specialist retailers. The retail price of our premium jeans is €100.

Our denim is produced by Candiani in Italy, a family-run company that was established in 1938 and combines creativity with the latest technology.

Candiani is meanwhile the biggest denim producer in Europe – and the most sustainable one in the world.

Full interview on jnc.net

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Brands to watch

ampersand heart

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new york, Us a

Creative director Antonio Haslauer foundded his label in 2017 and wants to expand the fashion boundaries of denim.

ity and ease that it is difficult for people not to relate to it, to feel comfortable in it, to aspire to and to experiment with it. Denim presents to the fashion world (and to consumers, for that matter) a safe harbour of enduring style amidst the cacophony of fast trends.

Why, of all fabrics, do you believe that denim is such a perennial favourite in the fashion world?

Most people have an emotional connection to denim. Probably no other fabric carries such an iconic legacy, yet it presents itself with such a level of familiar-

as a designer, how do you deal with the heritage of this fabric?

It is certainly exhilarating to work with an icon. My perspective on denim is to push its boundaries beyond conventional expectations. Denim is not a banal medium. It has a life of its own.

My work is to romance the intersection between fashion design and the richness of denim as a material.

What is your label’s USP? Our philosophy is to expand the perception of denim beyond the conventional five-pocket jeans and Western aesthetics.

Ampersand Heart stands for a way of dressing that references the legacy of denim, while allowing you to own fashion pieces without ever being overdressed. It is a very cool way to make a fashion statement. We see our brand as a storyteller, speaking about an icon in a contemporary way.

What’s your target group and where can they buy your designs?

As I do denim, most people assume that I gear the collection towards a very young demographic. I design thinking that I can dress someone really young, as well as someone mature. Elle Magazine published a jumpsuit of ours and I got an email from a 70-year-old lady saying that she felt it was perfect for her. I was very proud of that.

In Germany Ampersand Heart is sold by KaDeWe Group; you can also get it at boutique 1 in the UK and Donne Concept in Italy.

Full interview on jnc.net

Brands to watch

Braves & company hamBUrG, Germany

Which silhouettes dominate your debut collection?

I like to create characters. For me, it’s important that my styles dress men of this era but remain current despite the passing of time. My shapes are very smooth, practical, comfortable and voluminous with tighter contrasts on the tops. I think fashion will gain

Creative director and designer Stefano Angelico will present his debut collection with braves & Company in spring 2018. structure, volume and functional details in the future.

Do you prefer robust, rough or soft, flowing materials? both: I combine both rigid and soft materials when creating my styles.

What’s your target group?

My customers are everyone who appreciates quality and timeless goods, wants to be unique and

is self-confident. The garments will initially be sold online; my website and collection are works in progress.

What is your label’s USP? Selected pieces for eclectic people. how will you be marketing your collection in the future?

I will try to enter the online market, also through social media.

What I hope most is that my customers will discover me by word of mouth. I believe that the most important advertising is when your customer talks about you so you don’t need to.

What characterises your style?

I have been working as designer, patternmaker and developer for many years, starting out in my family company Fratelli Angelico at the end of the 80s and creating many collections. Their appearance has evolved a lot, but I believe that the common thread is my mentality of making timeless garments.

Full interview on jnc.net

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as a designer, how do you deal with the rich heritage of denim?

I’m always mindful of the tradition and the history of denim when designing my styles. It’s as if there were unwritten rules to observe and a code of honour to be respected.

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Brands to watch

ksenja schnaider kiev, Ukr aine

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Why, of all fabrics, do you believe that denim is such a perennial favourite in the fashion world?

Denim is practical and comfortable and perfect for almost any occasion – depending on the styling, of course.

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as a designer, how do you deal with the rich heritage of denim?

I work with new fabrics and also a lot with vintage jeans, which we wash, unstitch and rework into new garments. We have dresses, trench coats, skirts and shorts made from old jeans. The process is very challenging but exciting.

Ukranian designer Ksenia Schnaider presented her debut denim collection in 2016. She’s inspired by the utility, history and codes of clothing.

Do you prefer robust, rough or soft, flowing materials?

For our Ksenia Schnaider collections we work exclusively with 100% heavy cotton.

Do you orientate yourself on classic designs? Where do you draw your inspiration?

I really love denim classics and that’s where I find my inspiration.

I try to reinvent classic models and make them look modern and fresh. At the same time, I develop my own silhouettes, unique cuts and finishing – just have a look at our Rainbow Jeans, Demi-Denims or Denim Fur.

Do you think press hype and the work of influencers yields better results in terms of sales? yes, definitely! If the press and streetstyle pictures are good, then we achieve good sales. It’s important for emerging brands to work with editors and influencers, especially when you are creating something absolutely different, new or a little bit crazy.

Full interview on jnc.net

Which silhouettes dominate your collections?

Two years ago I created the new Demi-Denims silhouette – trousers mixed with skater shorts and skirts all in one. Slim, dungarees, mixed colour – I’ve been developing this cut ever since. For our SS 2018 collection I created hightailored jeans with finishing and details similar to classic trousers.

I really love their fit and look.

order location Düsseldor f

INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

EVENING & OCCASION

January 27 – 29, 2018 IGEDO.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

March 11 – 13, 2018 IGEDO.COM

AREAL BÖHLER / DÜSSELDORF

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Laura: Cap BalEnciaga @ MrPortEr.coM OveraLLs asos , shirt Wood Wood , Bum Bag Mi Pac sOCks rEEBok , sneakers asics

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DOminiC: JaCket off-WhitE @ MatchEsfashion.coM sweater arkEt, Jeans & BeLt dr. dEniM sOCks & sneakers adidas

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BenJamin: rainCOat VEtEMEnts @ MrPortEr.coM shirt arkEt, turtLeneCk Uniqlo , COrDs hoMEBoy x dandy diary, Bum Bag EastPak , sOCks stancE sneakers rEEBok

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JuLia: JaCket atf, earrings MargoVa JEWEllEry Leather trOusers aEron , Bum Bag EastPak , sOCks stancE sneakers conVErsE

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Concept: thorsten osterberger; Models: laura @ M4 Models, Benjamin @ Core Management, Julia @ MIHA Model Management, Dominic @ Mega Models; Hair & Make-Up: catrin Kreyss

Laura: earrings WEEkday, puLLOver sandro Cape Brooks , Dress EllEssE , trOusers stEin rohnEr sOCks VEtEMEnts x rEEBok @ MrPortEr.coM sneakers rEEBok

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AW 2018

BERlIN

TexT cheryll mühlen

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PREmIum 16 — 18 jaNuaRy 2018 USP: international bUSineSS Platform for advanced contemPorary faShion STaTION BERlIN luCkENwaldER STRaSSE 4-6 10963 BERlIN PREmIumEXhIBITIONS.COm

POINT OF EXPERIENCE

“Tradeshows are places of encounters. A handshake, a warm welcome, the experience, the inspiration and an emotional bond. Face to face is powerful.˝ – Anita Tilmann, Managing Partner Premium Group Content, commerce and community are the lead topics of the Premium Group for the AW 2018 season. Although the weighting of these three themes varies for each exhibition, it is Premium’s goal to constantly work on devel-

oping their formats. The single most significant USP of Premium, however, remains its sharply curated portfolio of women’s and men’s collections, along with shoes and accessories, from the premium segment.

While many tradeshows are all about transactions and merely doing business, Premium sees itself as a community space and commerce & content platform.

It’s a fashion gathering where the industry meets to exchange

BERlIN

perience rather than just a point of sale are the well received Show x Order concept and the established brand portfolio, as well as the numerous fashion start-ups in the Premium Young Designers Segment. Because as

we know, the future also brings change and we all have to deal with it sooner or later. Premium knows that too, which is why it not only provides the market status quo, but also shows us where things are heading.

SEEk 16 — 18 jaNuaRy 2018 USP: ProGreSSive contemPorary faShion trade ShoW aRENa BERlIN am FluTgRaBEN 12435 BERlIN SEEkEXhIBITIONS.COm

“If you love what you do, it’s easy to excel in it.” – Anita Tilmann, Managing Partner Premium Group The cool kid among the Premium Group tradeshows has been enjoying a steadily growing community since its inception in 2009. Catchy Seek song slogans, a relaxed atmosphere, a contemporary curated portfolio of brands and the well-structured grounds ensure that Seek Berlin is always a popular focal point for exhibitors and visitors alike. It’s a total experience because it offers an outstanding blend of commercial and emerging brands presenting side by side and therefore perceived as all being on an equal footing – a key strength of the tradeshow at the Arena Berlin. But also the

POwER TO ThE PEOPlE space provided for gathering and meeting, which should be as stress-free as possible, is driven by a relaxed and dynamically inspiring vibe. Despite its growing popularity, an expansion of Seek is not being planned: only in terms of “depth”, as they put it, reinventing themselves a little for every new edition, but a change of location is not on the cards.

Instead, Seek will be developed further, while keeping its heart and soul. The same applies to the introduction of the Seek House concept last season, which they are planning to expand upon in the AW 2018 season.

So what does the future of tradeshows look like in general? Seek has a clear answer: “No matter what happens: it’s a people business.”

TRadEShOwS

Show&Order x Premium will be using the vacated area of the Kühlhaus venue, moving it right next to its big sister Premium from January 2018. In addition to #Fashiontech, further highlights that make Premium a point of ex-

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and stay informed, but also to be inspired – because content and information are just as important as the presentation of collections, brands and trends. In addition, services and the customer journey are a top priority for the Premium organisers, as well as making the whole experience as pleasant and interesting as possible for exhibitors and visitors.

In terms of content and concept, the well-established #Fashiontech Conference will also be expanded in cooperation with the Messe Frankfurt from January 2018 and is taking place at a new location, Kraftwerk Berlin, a former power station. Information on the established topics like the future of retail, digital marketing and communications is being substantially expanded to include the areas of sustainability and the future of textiles: Messe Frankfurt, the internationally recognised institution when it comes to sustainability and technical textiles, joins forces with #FashionTech to present their new conference format FashionSustain.

In the process of moving #Fashiontech to Kraftwerk Berlin, and in response to the wishes of many buyers and exhibitors,

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COOl aNd ThE gaNg BRIghT 16 — 18 jaNuaRy 2018 USP: brandS rePreSent aUthentic SUbcUltUreS aRENa BERlIN am FluTgRaBEN 12435 BERlIN BRIghT TRadEShOw.COm

“We believe that the physical Bright event, a real-life experience, is much more intense than digital communication can ever be.” – Thomas Martini, Managing Director Bright Art, music and streetwear fashion, combined with the lifestyle of the skateboard culture: that’s the DNA of Bright in Berlin. So how very apt that the seventh edition of the Bright european Skateboard Awards, presented together with Vans and Free Skateboard Magazine, will be taking place on the first day of the tradeshow. For the winter edition, a Community Hub is being planned, including a skate park, café, media lounge and art installations, which – in addition to the already laid-back vibe – is set to offer the industry and retailers the ultimate relaxed atmosphere. The July edition of the event was attended by around 15,000 visitors. And as the visitor numbers are usually higher in winter, the organisers Marco Aslim and Thomas Martini are expecting a slight increase in January.

The new structure of the halls was very well received at the summer edition: the navigation has been improved, as well as the segmen-

tation of the individual brands.

The new Outdoor Aesthetics segment is interesting both for the shops as well as streetwear brands that draw inspiration from combining performance with fashion. With the radically changing face of society, the associated demands placed on textiles are growing. Sustainability and functionality are becoming increasingly important. These days, there’s a lot more to trade-

shows than merely looking at collections, according to Martini.

“Retail is no longer just about selling textiles, it’s much more about experiences, added value and content. It’s about the physical experience versus the digital one. How is bricks-and-mortar retail positioning itself? How is the online market segmented?

Where are niches being created?

These are the important questions that Bright wants to answer.”

dIgITal, ISPO muNICh FEmININE, 28 — 31 jaNuaRy 2018 aThlETIC

USP: World’S biGGeSt mUlti-SeGment tradeShoW in the SPortS indUStry

mESSE müNChEN gmBh muNICh EXhIBITION gROuNdS 81823 müNChEN ISPO.COm

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“The athleisure trend will bring growth and new sales potential.”

– Markus Hefter, exhibition Group Director ISPO Munich

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Visitors to next year’s ISPO will have the opportunity to find out what new concepts the digitalisation of sport has to offer.

Whether RFID in functional clothing, Wi-Fi and wearables or digital sports retail on and offline – digital solutions for business as well as smart products for sports are continuing to evolve. The topic of digitalisation will also be covered with lectures, panel discussions and conferences.

Brand new: the segment “Women in the sports business”. Whether visitors, exhibitors, press or influencers – topics such as “Women

in leadership” and “Gender marketing” focus on the female audience. The ISPO Munich Women’s Lounge, guided tours like experts4Women, as well as panel discussions, aim to create ideal meeting places in which to gather information, be inspired and connect.

A modern spatial concept in the halls, which picks up on the current developments in the sports business, also aims to meet the increased demand and clearly structure the seven segments in the total of 16 halls. Contentappropriate focus areas provide an additional insight into the individual topic areas. These are all promising incentives for a successful season, which may well top the 2017 record.

BERlIN / muNICh

NEw NEIghBOuRS

USP: claSSic tradeShoW / craft and heritaGe brandS mESSE BERlIN jaFFéSTRaSSE 14055 BERlIN PaNORama-BERlIN.COm SElvEdgERuN.COm

known for its focus on quality and crafted goods. With its individual and very authentic presentation, it is at the forefront when it comes to the community approach of its international brands and buyers.

Due to the complementary character of both concepts a complete spectrum is being provided that will offer many new sources of inspiration, especially for department stores and progressively-oriented buyers.

“The result is a very interesting product range for the denim and progressive casual market, which will greatly appeal to national and international visitors alike,” explains Jörg Wichmann, Managing Director of Panorama Fashion Fair Berlin GmbH. And the cooperation approach is also being continued in terms of visitor services. First and foremost, the focus is on continuing to optimise the quality of service for the buyers of both events.

The collaboration between Panorama Berlin and Selvedge Run

should therefore be a long-term one, opening up opportunities for lasting growth and development for all those involved.

The first seeds for a new future have been sown here for both tradeshows and we will most certainly be seeing the first fruits of their collaboration next January.

Shane Brandenburg’s promise “our brands will love it,” certainly gives us even more incentive to look forward to visiting the tradeshow.

“The new location is great; really bright with plenty of daylight.

The Marshall House is architecturally beautiful and unique.” – Shane Brandenburg, Sales Manager & Partner of Selvedge Run

TRadEShOwS

PaNORama & SElvEdgE RuN 16 — 18 jaNuaRy 2018

We were pretty astonished when we received the press release about the new cooperation between Panorama Berlin and Selvedge Run in September. De facto a classic win-win situation for both tradeshows as well as for the exhibitors and visitors of both events. This means that from January 2018, Selvedge Run will be moving from the Kulturbrauerei Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg to the trade fair grounds of Messe Berlin, bringing it closer to Panorama and the Marshallhaus (the US exhibition pavilion). Both order platforms will continue to work independently, but they will certainly benefit from the synergies arising from the shared location. A smart move indeed.

Selvedge Run will no doubt generate a larger visitor flow and more attention, while the Panorama can enhance its denim expertise with the expansion of their Nova Concept hall.

While Nova Concept covers the progressive, casual and lifestyle denim market, Selvedge Run is

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“Our cooperation with Selvedge Run offers us the opportunity to further develop our Nova Concept portfolio.”

– Jörg Wichmann, Managing Director Panorama Fashion Fair Berlin GmbH

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PROgRESS wITh aNSwERS aNd SOluTIONS

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“The standards of both the providers and the visitors at the tradeshow are extremely high.

And rightly so. The sector is facing fundamental changes and upheavals.” – Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start

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The fashion industry needs to open up new areas of innovation that go far beyond standard industry sectors. Complexity is increasing and consumption patterns are changing. Seasons are merging. And all this is what the organisers of Munich Fabric Start are trying to illustrate with concrete concept approaches, to identify solutions and to provide answers – hand in hand with their industry partners.

That’s why the major theme of the next season will include an even greater integration of technology and new developments for

fabrics and additionals. Munich Fabric Start already reflected this development in their previous events and created a dynamic concentrated competence and innovation centre in the Keyhouse.

In the future, the benefits of Munich as a tradeshow location will be further highlighted in order to position the Bavarian state capital as a city of fashion.

For example, the next tradeshow will include the architecturally impressive BMW World near Munich´s Olympiapark as a new location for an exclusive trend

workshop by Li edelkoort for the Munich Fabric Start launch, as well as raising the visibility of various other key points in the city.

On the other hand, the denim show Bluezone, which has been expanded to three days, will be presenting a new concept on the last day of the February edition.

There are plans for a denim conference, as well as a comprehensive and competent seminar programme with exclusive trend analyses.

“Infinite” will also be expanding its industry relevance, not only by responding to the needs of exhibitors and visitors, but by expanding on the pioneering role as an innovative tradeshow and creating a solid foundation for successful business. After all, the focus of Munich Fabric Start always lies in the investment in the product and the associated optimisation.

muNICh FaBRIC STaRT & BluEZONE 30 jaNuaRy — 1 FEBRuaRy 2018 USP: interactive commUnication Platform With innovative and trendSettinG Potential ZENITh hallE & kESSElhauS lIlIENThalallEE 29 80939 muNICh muNIChFaBRICSTaRT.COm

düSSEldORF

gallERy

27 — 29 jaNuaRy 2018 USP: an international hUb in düSSeldorf dUrinG the cPd order aREal BöhlER haNSaallEE 321 40549 düSSEldORF gallERy-duESSEldORF.dE

“We are delighted about the significant increase in international visitors.˝ – Ulrike Kähler, Project Director Gallery/Gallery Shoes With its successfully established showroom concept, Gallery is facing the challenges of the international market head on. This new concept makes it possible for agencies to show presence for up to nine days before and after the official tradeshow dates and is the perfect opportunity for them to arrange meetings and take orders.

And this is something that’s also appreciated by the approximately 6,000 professional buyers who made the pilgrimage to the 11th season of Gallery Düsseldorf at Areal Böhler – an upward trend that is also expected for the up-

a hEll OF a STaRT gallERy ShOES 11 — 13 maRCh 2018

all aROuNd ThE glOBE coming January edition. Around 800 international brands offer the visitors a varied platform.

But as tradeshows are also all about change, new exhibitors are expected to take part next year.

As well as established designers, Gallery always has an eye on the future too, cooperating with promising young talents and the VDMD, which awards outstanding achievements. Catwalks and events by Platform Fashion are adding to Gallery’s programme of accompanying events once again.

With the constant development of Gallery’s showroom concept as well as a new total of four order dates thanks to its new sister tradeshow Gallery Shoes, Ulrike Kähler and her team are anticipating a noticeably new dynamic.

ropean buyers attended the first edition of the relaunched shoe exhibition, which has successfully followed in the big footsteps of its predecessor, the GDS. More than 500 brands were represented at the premiere. In the run-up to the event, the demand increased and the waiting list got longer and longer, which meant that new temporary halls had to

be built at short notice. And the organiser, Igedo Company, is expecting the same positive feedback, or perhaps even better, for the second edition next March.

The quality of the exhibitors and professional visitors so far has been spot on, but the organisers are hoping to increase the number of Scandinavian visitors in the future. The outdoor areas, which

proved very popular this summer, will be adapted for the weather conditions of spring.

“We are satisfied with this result, especially considering the short timeframe we had, but of course we still have our sights firmly set on our remaining targets for the future – and are now enthusiastically moving forward,” concludes Ulrike Kähler.

USP: eUroPe’S only Shoe fair With SUch a modern, StyliSh format aREal BöhlER haNSaallEE 321 40549 düSSEldORF

Concentrated and competent: that’s how Gallery Shoes wanted to present itself to the european shoe market. And the visitors and exhibitors were unanimous: it was mission accomplished!

Around 9,200 professional eu-

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“We’ve had a perfect start that will now allow us to concentrate on attracting more international professional buyers.” – Ulrike Kähler, Project Director Gallery

tradeshows

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OFFENBaCh / FlORENCE

IT'S all aBOuT TRadE I.l.m OFFENBaCh 3 – 4 maRCh 2018 USP: traditional, condenSed order Platform With a laid-back atmoSPhere mESSE OFFENBaCh kaISERSTRaSSE 108-112 63065 OFFENBaCh Ilm-OFFENBaCh.dE

We’re not about extravagance; we just want to maintain our current reputation as a good trading platform.” – Arnd Hinrich Kappe, Managing Director of Messe Offenbach The I.L.M could perhaps be described as unemotional and business-like. But the organisers at Messe Offenbach know exactly what they are doing. Constant changes to the concept are out of the question for them. They have reached the level they were aspiring to and now all they have to do is maintain this success. So, for the meanwhile 148th edition they don’t have any major innovations or changes up their sleeves, but will be offering exhibitors and visitors the same modestlysized event with just two categories in which to do good business.

This model is gaining the trust of the industry, as proven by the 5,900 visitors who attended the Summer Styles edition, which reported a slight rise in visitors compared to the previous event.

But while the I.L.M is all about consistency, they are noticing changes to their visitor demo-

graphic: the tradeshow is reporting a decline in the number of visitors from Germany, but a growth in the number of international ones who are coming from countries like South Africa, South America and Japan. When it comes to the exhibitors, not much has changed – 300 are expected to take part again next year, including more and more Italian brands and young labels.

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“We want the quality of our fashion offer to meet the highest standards, to make the event unique for all fashion professionals.” – Raffaello Napoleone, CeO Pitti Immagine

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Storytelling has become an important factor in the fashion landscape, a skill that the Florentine Pitti Uomo has mastered the art of.

The organisers simply know how to channel relevant topics and to put them into a value-packed context for both visitors and exhibitors. For the 93rd edition of the world’s most prestigious menswear tradeshow the “Guest Nation Finland” project will be curating the eight most interesting and promising Finnish menswear brands and offering visitors the opportunity to take a closer look at the Nordic newcomers.

The AW 2018 collections from the bags, accessories and luggage segment will therefore be defining the mood next year, and also offering plenty of surprises. And there’s also going to be a little digital revolution taking place: by the next Summer Styles edition there should be an orientation app in the pipeline that will guide you across the grounds with personalised options for each visitor.

PITTI uOmO 9 — 12 jaNuaRy 2018 USP: the World’S leadinG tradeShoW for menSWear FORTEZZa da BaSSO vIalE FIlIPPO STROZZI 1 FlORENCE PIT TImmagINE.COm

The line-up at the Fortezza da Bassi generally provides additional events with top names from the contemporary fashion scene, to keep visitors updated about new and established talent and brands, as well as the future of fashion. “At each edition we introduce some new elements to the layout of the exhibition, trying to make it more functional and interactive for our buyers,” says Raffaello Napoleone, the CeO of Pitti Immagine. “Pitti Uomo evolves through research and redesigns with a mix of well-known names at the Fortezza and exhibitions with a contemporary soul.”

That’s why the Pitti always serves as a cross-section of what menswear currently has to offer, which is the high standard they set themselves. And that’s what the approximately 36,000 visitors appreciate.

amSTERdam

FOCuS ON BluE gOld

uSP: dENIm-FOCuSEd aNd INFORmaTIvE TRadEShOw IN ThE jEaNS mECCa OF amSTERdam wESTERgaSFaBRIEk klöNNEPlEIN 1 1014 dd amSTERdam kINgPINSShOw.COm

clearly focused. Quality and efficiency rather than quantity, if you will. The concept, as stated on their website, is simple. And their ethos and approach hasn’t changed since its beginnings in January 2004: “Yes to an invitation-only guest list. Yes to a small footprint with a big impact. Yes to a family vibe and open bar. Yes to seminars and panels for sharing ideas and inspiring each other and continually learning as much as we can. Yes to being productive and progressive members of the indigo community interested in bringing sustainability to our industry.”

Visitors will be discovering everything worth knowing about “blue gold” for the spring/summer 2019

season. Manufacturers like Candiani, Bossa, Calik, Orta Anadolou and Invista will be in attendance and firm favourites like the Kingpins Transformers Summit and the Global Denim Awards will be taking place once again. Although the organisers aren’t giving too much away as yet, they did say the following: “Our exhibitor mix will remain largely the same with a few changes. We will, however, have a few exciting new activities and installations.”

So you’ll have to visit yourself if you want to discover what’s exciting and new but one thing’s for sure: if you want to know about the world of denim, this two-day event in the Dutch capital is not to be missed.

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kINgPINS ShOw

25 — 26 OCTOBER 2018

If anyone has a heart that beats indigo-blue, then it’s the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam. The tradeshow located at the Westergasfabriek venue (a former gas works) is one of the most concentrated denim platform for buyers, press and academia. And that’s what it plans to remain, which is why the organisers have a strict invitation-only system.

“To avoid networking,” as Andrew Olah, Kingpins Show’s founder, once said in an interview with J’N’C. That may sound a bit harsh at first, especially coming from a tradeshow. But Kingpins Show focuses strictly on the business side of denim – and a focused informative basis can only be ensured if the environment is also

TRadEShOwS

Our exhibitors are the major players in the global denim world.” – Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show

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I am now quIte cured of seekIng pleasure in society, be It country or town. a sensible man ought to fInd suffIcIent company in himself. photography Julie Nagel

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emily Brontë — Wuthering Heights

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Model Tom Holland @ Modelwerk; hair & Make-up Marco HĂźlsebus

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STYLISH STYLISH STYLISH STYLISH

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AMSTERDAM FASHION TRADE EVENT JANUARY 21–22 2018 MODEFABRIEK.NL

10 questions

J'N'C t a l k

10 quEsTiOns

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Gianluigi & alberto Candiani CaNdiaNi dENim RobECChEtto, italy

What constitutes a perfect pair of jeans in your opinion?

ALBERTO: Five ingredients – fabric, fit, wash, sustainable features and longevity (ageing nicely), without being affected by fashion cycles and trends.

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You’ve developed your own dyeing process called “Indigo Juice”. How does it work?

GiAnLuiGi: We have to give credit to Mr David Austoni here, our General Manager of 25 years. He resurrected an old-school dyeing technique.

ALBERTO: We can’t disclose the secrets, but we can say it involves 100% indigo shades, a touch of glucose and colour that is made to fade easily, saving water and energy in the laundry process.

Candiani Denim, established in 1938 in a tiny town near Milano, is a family-run business known as one of the greenest and most sustainable denim companies around.

Stretch denim made you famous at the end of the 90s.

What innovations are you planning at the moment?

GiAnLuiGi: Stretch was our forte in the 90s and 2000s; it’s what set us apart from other mills but we have continued to evolve and sustainability is now our focus.

AlbERTO: Real biodegradable and compostable denim is on the way; we want 100% recycled materials including fabric with stretch. It’s only a matter of time.

Alberto, you are now running Candiani in the fourth generation. What changed for the company after you took over?

ALBERTO: Not much, the company is super solid and that is thanks to my dad. I simply pushed down heavily on the innovation pedal.

Probably the main difference now is that innovation is on the same level as sustainability, without forgetting the importance of aesthetics and performance. These factors are all built into our DNA.

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What is Candiani’s USP? ALBERTO: It’s all about our identity, so ... What: the best denim. Who: us and our people.

Where: Robecchetto, 30 minutes away from Milan. How: in the greenest way possible. When: today for the future.

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When trying to achieve a sustainable manufacturing process, what challenges do you face as a producer?

ALBERTO: The biggest challenge is helping our customers to understand what we are doing, showing and proving our sustainable features in a way that they can make sense of, appreciate and eventually translate this into marketing materials to support their products and their sales.

Our marketing team is doing a fantastic job of creating a specific way of communicating these features, touching on every single sustainable aspect of Candiani in a tangible way, with an appealing denim language.

You’ve been working with the Denham brand for more than nine years now. Are there any other companies you would like to cooperate with?

ALBERTO: Around ten actually, and we want to congratulate Jason Denham for such a great achievement. You can easily recognise the brands we cooperate with most, thanks to our Rivetto D’Oro (the Golden Rivet), a distinctive sign, which rewards our top customers who share our values (made in Italy, sustainability and innovation). We are very happy and proud of all the current companies we are cooperating with and aren’t really looking to expand our special collaborations at the moment. Even behind the scenes, with no co-branding involved, we have very special relationships with many brands, especially in the US, where our best service is given by developing exclusive fabrics.

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What is most important in a cooperation partner?

GiAnLuiGi: loyalty.

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What influences your design – what inspires you?

ALBERTO: We always look at trends of course, denim, non-denim, technologies, innovation of any kind, from apparel to food. bearing in mind we need to be one step ahead the market as we work on our collections almost two years in advance against the market itself. So, what is out there now is already old news for us. For any trendsetter ideas, pure creativity is more important than market research and trends analysis even though we have to be very careful when presenting our innovations. In fact, if we play too much in advance we might end up inspiring the competition, which is not what we want!

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Denim is ...

ALBERTO: The most democratic fabric in the world – it just needs to be a little cleaner.

Full interview on jnc.net

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