J'N'C News 01/22

J’N’C News – Your insider source for the latest in fashion – Since 1991 – Issue 1/22 – Tuesday, 11 January 2022

1/ 22 NEWS & VIEWS BRANDS DESIGNERS FASHION OPINIONS

News

BRAINS BEHIND THE BRANDS

ELIAS RUMELIS / RUMELIS & ELI BY ELIAS RUMELIS

THE ART OF COOL Elias Rumelis exudes passion and creativity and seems to effortlessly master the art of coolness. In our cover interview, the founder of Elias Rumelis and Eli by Elias Rumelis tells us how he has been successfully manoeuvring his way through the waves of the tempestuous fashion industry for more than two decades and what his sons have to do with that. p. 22

K-Swiss

Andersen-Andersen

BEST OF THE BEST

BACK TO STYLE

THE AMERICAN DREAM

From the tennis court to the street: An interview with Jamel Khadir, Vice President for Marketing and Sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa at K-Swiss, about a 55-year success story. p. 32

The perfect sweater doesn’t exist? AndersenAndersen is proving otherwise. How the Danish brand is standing the test of time with just two dozen styles. p. 14

Time to leave our comfort zone? Not quite, but the new AW22 season is upping the style stakes.

Here's our pick of the first collections. p. 10

Founder Michael Azoulay’s wish for 2022? To improve the company as a whole. He reveals how he wants to do that in our interview. p. 26

ICON STATUS

Bits & Pieces

American Vintage

FLANELL LOOK PANTS

NO COTTON DENIM

THE JEANS CHINO

FRANKFURT FASHION WEEK

JANUARY

17–21,

2022

VISIT FRANKFURT.FASHION AND LEARN MORE.

8

Editorial

WHO DO WE WANT TO BE IN THE FUTURE? Finding yourself is probably one of the most ambitious New Year’s resolutions there is. But the journey can lead you on a deceptive never-ending loop of learned patterns, assuming you don’t manage to break out and replace old habits with new ones that better suit the new you and the current state of the world.

Many brands, companies, manufacturers, retailers, tradeshows and content creators are currently in the middle of this kind of process. It seems like everyone is asking themselves the same question at the moment: who do we even want to be in the future?

An entire industry is currently in the midst of a disruptive, ongoing process of reinvention. Never before has there been such a shift in awareness than in the last two years. In turn, a transformation towards more transparency – in every respect – also means that backward-thinking companies are being forced to either adapt or bear the consequences. But this issue is dedicated to all those who want to take action and tackle the consequences instead.

It’s not just about the sustainability transformation, however, but also about the brains behind the brands who have recognised the sign of the times and rolled up their sleeves – and those who have always stayed true to themselves from the very start. Elias Rumelis, designer and self-professed free spirit, has always done his own thing and, if you ask us, he does it pretty damn well. In our cover interview from page 22, he is speaking to J’N’C News about two projects that are very close to his heart, explaining why you sometimes need to nudge people onto the right path and telling us where he is no longer willing to make compromises.

No compromises is also a challenge that more and more brands are approaching in their mission to create a better future. To reuse existing resources, the trend is pointing towards upcycling processes. In our essay ‘Second Life, Second Chance’ on page 20, our author Wolfgang Altmann is exploring the question of how much potential there is in old clothing. The rediscovered potential of tradeshows is something that many trade fair organisers are thrilled about right now. Taking place in Florence for the 101st time, Pitti Uomo is facing the challenges of the pandemic once again. Nevertheless, the forced absence as a result of COVID-19 has definitely reignited people’s interest in meeting up live and in person. This is also something that the organisers of Première Vision are noticing.

Their next show won’t be taking place until May 2022, when it will be celebrating its Berlin premiere, but until then Manon Mangin, Head of Fashion Products, is giving us an insight into the most important SS23 trends from page 36.

Trends have never really been a topic at American Vintage. From the early days, their focus was on developing the perfect white T-shirt.

With real intuition for the market, the zeitgeist and its own identity, the brand has since developed into a global company that embodies a new kind of American Dream. In an interview from page 26, its founder Michael Azoulay is talking about longevity with a view to the future. In the case of Andersen-Andersen, it was sheer chance that brought the perfect product to the attention of founding couple Peter Kjær-Andersen and Cathrine Lundgren-Andersen. Turn to page 14 to find out what kind of a product it was.

One of the top sneaker brands for 55 years now, K-Swiss from the USA, has been on a quest to make the perfect tennis shoe since 1966. In our interview from page 32, Jamel Khadir, the brand's

Vice President of Marketing and Sales for Europe, Middle East and Africa, explains why they have their sights set on Central Europe for 2022.

Heritage and progress aren’t mutually exclusive, as Doucal’s is proving from page 30. The Italian shoe manufacturer knows its strengths and is sticking to them – despite, or precisely because of the fact that its core values have also shifted. Building on existing strengths was also a task assigned to Giovanna Engelbert, the new Creative Director of Swarovski – a company that certainly doesn’t do things by halves. But there can often be a fine line between kitsch and glamour. To find out how she has managed to reinvent the traditional company without losing its true character along the way, turn to page 38. She has ‘The Last Word’ in this issue and is whisking us off into her glittering world of crystals.

I hope that you’re just as inspired by everyone featured in this issue as we are and that you will join us in starting the new year full of optimism! Let’s all become better together.

PUBLISHER

Associate Publisher

Advertising

Graphic Design

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE

DATA PROTECTION NOTICE

EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Liesegangstr. 17 40211 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de

Pierre D’Aveta

Pierre D’Aveta p.daveta@jnc-net.de Tel. +49 (0)211 8303-151

Diana Huste (dgraphix.de)

In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The subscriber can appeal against this regulation. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos etc.

The magazine and all its contents and images are protected by copyright.

The place of business is Düsseldorf and the place of jurisdiction, at the discretion of EPPG, is either Munich or Düsseldorf.

and the J’N’C News team

CREDITS

PUBLISHING MANAGEMENT

Editors Wolfgang Altmann (wa) Renée Diehl (rd) Jenni Koutni (jk) Franka Schmid (fs) Deniz Trosdorff (dt) Kristin Walzel (kw)

Nikola Köster

PUBLICATION FREQUENCY

Annual subscription price: Advance payment of 95.00 EUR incl. distribution fees & VAT in Germany, or 110.00 EUR incl. tax & distribution fees outside of Germany (Europe) Ad price list: No. 18 from 01.10.2021

sales

4 issues annually (incl. J’N’C Magazine)

Bank details

EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

dispatch

Ad planning

Nikola Köster Kathrin Wimber

COPY EDITOR Paula Hedley

Production

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

TRANSLATION

EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

Cheryll Mühlen

Paula Hedley, Galina Green (trendtranslations.de)

1/2022

print Schaffrath, Geldern

DP AG, Pressepost

Commerzbank AG IBAN DE70 3008 0000 0212 7829 00 SWIFT DRESDEFF300

ISSN: 2193-8423

ELIASRUMELIS elias-rumelis.com

10

BITS & PIECES

Comma Casual Identity

RETHINK, RESET, RESHAPE… …are Comma Casual Identity’s three guiding principles for the autumn/winter 2022 season. And by this they mean the social transformation that many women are currently experiencing. This idea is being reflected in the collection, with vivid colours, for example, or contrasting textures that give the entire collection a natural confidence and redefine the look of the woman of today, who wears what she wants, when she wants to. And being bold enough to make loud statements is, of course, a part of that: colour accents meet muted neutrals, patterns and prints add new momentum, laid-back looks are taking precedence over stylish party outfits and natural fabrics are in harmony with technical materials. But denim is also part of the focus at Comma Identity. New shapes, 70s-inspired all-over denim looks and denim-inspired stretch variations are adding a new flavour while sophisticated tonal logos, smocking and stitching details give the garments an additional individual and handcrafted touch.

Alberto

YOUNGER THAN EVER

Rice

2022 is set to be a special year for trouser specialist Alberto because the company is celebrating its 100-year anniversary.

Even after 100 years, they are still focusing on their tried-andtested methods, but have also proven over the past few years that they aren’t afraid to try new things. Their Barista Coffee pants are the latest proof of this innovative approach: coffee charcoal is incorporated into the trousers and not only stores body heat, but also provides the ideal thermal insulation, while antibacterial properties help to regulate the temperature. The

RICE IS NICE

MAC

comma-store.de

IN THE HERE AND NOW

Sustainable footwear label Rice is launching its new ‘Open21’ sneaker in February. And as the name of the Spanish brand suggests, the new shoe is made from real grains of rice, along with other sustainable materials. The grains are even visible in the outer sole so you can instantly see what it’s made of. As well as rice, they also use vegan corn, apple leather, organic cotton and recycled materials to make sure that their sneakers aren’t just stylish but also as sustainable as possible. The result is high-end footwear that combines tradition, Spanish craftsmanship and a cool look. And to top it all off, the ’Open 21’, which comes in three different colourways, is even made in the EU.

As a sign of the times, the autumn/winter 2022 collection by MAC combines dressy chic with urban casualness. With its ‘Living in Movement’ theme, the German trouser company is celebrating life and wants to inspire others to do the same.

And the new looks should certainly help them with this: freedom of movement is the name of the game here. References from the 1990s and 2000s are giving the AW22 collection a casual upgrade, while diversity and self-love are finding their place in figure-enhancing silhouettes that really look the part in the new jersey fabrics.

thericeco.com

mac-jeans.com

1/2022

brand is known for designing styles that not only look good and fit like a glove, but also feel great and help make everyday life easier thanks to their functions, details and technical features. This special anniversary will be celebrated all year long in the form of cooperations with like-minded labels. So it looks like it’s going to be an exciting year. Happy birthday, Alberto – you look younger than ever! albertoshop.de

11

BITS & PIECES

Windsor

Saucony

NEW ORDER

ATTENTION, PLEASE!

Windsor is heading to the mountains for autumn/winter 2022.

To Chamonix, to be precise – a charming town with a rich history, nestled in the foothills of Mont Blanc, where the first Olympic Winter Games were also held in 1924. Chamonix provided the inspiration for the design team – especially off the ski slopes, to create a modern wardrobe for men and women. The Windsor AW22 look for menswear is bolder and more individual. Tailoring and sportswear are being merged, while voluminous 80s influences add a touch of excitement.

The womenswear is also more voluminous overall, but uses slim silhouettes to add contrasts here and there. And the highlight here is the small ‘Front Row Edit’ capsule collection consisting of three monochrome tailored looks.

The newly released ‘Shadow Original Shiny’ by Saucony doesn’t do minimalism. This January, the cult model is celebrating its dazzling comeback. First launched back in 1985 as a running shoe, the unmistakeable Shadow Original won over millions of fans around the world. Fast-forward 36 years and it’s looking more modern than ever: the new version has a slightly puffy upper material and stands out with its shiny, neutral base, accentuated with pastel-coloured and shimmering details. The statement sneaker, which ticks all the sneaker boxes, comes in three colourways: black, rosé and grey-silver.

windsor.de

Marc O’Polo

saucony.com

LESS RETRO, MORE CONTEMPORARY Vibrant, fresh colours, bolder styles – the autumn/winter 2022 season is heralding a new era for Marc O’Polo denim. With modern wording prints and appliqués and a cleaner design, the looks convey a new optimism. For the menswear that is translating into casual, sporty styles, which are embracing a mix of sweats, jersey, sustainable denim and college elements.

Relaxed retro oversized tailoring is being given a modern twist and fits perfectly into today’s looks. Just like the womenswear collection, where the design focuses on college details combined with fresh new patterns, striking horizontal stripes, small checks and floral and all-over prints. For the women, Marc O’Polo Denim is all about contrasts, whether in the colours, the cuts or the feel of the materials. The new MOP look is all about having fun and leaving room for individuality. marc-o-polo.com

Baum & Pferdgarten

THE MODERN EXPLORER

s.Oliver

LIFESTYLE THERAPY

The pre-autumn 2022 collection by Baum & Pferdgarten was designed with confident women in mind and is fun and easy to wear. The focus this time is on art, inspired by Jens Ferdinand Willumsen’s artwork entitled ‘A Mountain Climber’ from 1912 that portrays the Danish artist’s second wife. This artwork served as the inspiration for next season’s pre-collection, which is in harmony with the uplifting aesthetic of Willumsen’s work.

With seasonless pieces made for the urban survivor, the collection explores our human connection with nature. With improved normcore sensitivity – streamlined, gender-neutral styles that are a nod to classic menswear silhouettes – the collection has a strong focus on colour, texture and patterns.

Earthy tones contrast with intense pink, golden yellow and pure white, while minimalist silhouettes exude the typical Danish style.

Nature and technology have more in common than you might think. And the new s.Oliver autumn/winter 2022 collection is drawing inspiration from the exciting interplay of these two worlds. The mix of nature and technology creates a completely new look that is not strange or different, but is meant to harmonise and balance, calm and cleanse, invigorate and change.

Tones inspired directly by nature dominate the palette. Vibrant, digitally inspired colour nuances add the matching accents and are cheering up the cold, grey days of winter. After all, vibrant colours exude optimism and that’s something we could certainly all do with right now!

baumundpferdgarten.com

soliver.de

1/2022

12

AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 TRENDS

Balmain Balmain

Balenciaga

Chloé

Batsheva Moschino

Cushnie et Ochs

Cushnie et Ochs

Esfér

Balenciaga

Esfér

Vetements

Welcome back to the matrix In 1999, ‘The Matrix’, written and directed by the Wachowski sisters, changed the film industry and quite literally also time itself with its bullettime visual effects, unique action scenes and iconic leather-clad aesthetic, which had a huge influence on fashion at the beginning of the 2000s.

With the comeback of ‘The Matrix Resurrections’ in December 2021, we can expect more of the same, especially if the first (pre-) fall collections of 2022 are anything to go by.

Credits: All images @Imaxtree

1/2022

RANNEL OG FALL - WINTER 22 COLLECTION

CALIFORNIA CLASSICS

since 1966

14

Brands Andersen-Andersen

Andersen-Andersen

Something beautiful and durable When married couple Peter Kjær-Andersen and Cathrine Lundgren-Andersen set up their joint brand Andersen-Andersen in 2009, they didn’t even know what they wanted to sell. Their only plan was to create something beautiful and durable. Inspired by the craftsmanship of their native Denmark, the product ended up being a classic Danish sailor sweater. In an interview with J’N’C News, co-founder Cathrine Lundgren-Andersen reveals why, more than ten years later, their original product has barely changed.

Text: Renée Diehl

You created Andersen-Andersen together with your husband Peter Kjær-Andersen in 2009, so your brand has been around for over a decade now. How has the journey been for you two so far?

We feel privileged to have arrived at a place where our main concern is delivering the best possible products. That’s been our philosophy from the start and it’s how we have found purpose and meaning. A personal highlight is that we’ve been able to grow the collection from one sweater to 24 styles while retaining what it was that made us unique in the first place.

How would you describe Andersen-Andersen in one sentence?

Our goal when we started the company was to create something beautiful and durable in a way that honoured and respected historical craftsmanship. It could have been a chair – it just happened to be a sweater!

Due to COVID-19, 2020 and 2021 have been years of change and challenge all over the world. How did it affect AndersenAndersen and what did you learn from the experience as a brand?

It’s brought the whole sustainability discussion more sharply into focus. Like everyone else, we travelled less and spent more time on video calls and as a result we’re taking a closer look at how the things we do affect the environment. That's not something that’s going to change because there’s no going back to ‘normal’ now.

1/2022

Even though your collections are seasonless, do you still take trends into consideration during the design process, or do you solely rely on classic designs and craftsmanship? What’s the process behind your designs in general?

We’ve always believed in having a single, unisex collection and the way we make our garments hasn’t changed. Any changes that we have made over the years have always been in pursuit of higher quality and greater sustainability. For instance, the cotton we use now is 100 percent organic and GOTS-certified.

While we don’t do seasonal collections, we do occasionally make special editions. We recently made a pink version of a few of our most popular styles in collaboration with Danish artist Tal R. Those projects are important – they give us a lot of energy and we love to see how our brand is interpreted by people we admire.

It could have been a chair – it just happened to be a sweater!

Where do you produce your garments and what is your approach to sustainability?

Every Andersen-Andersen garment is made at a handpicked knitting mill in northern Italy using wool exclusively sourced from Patagonia and Uruguay, and organic cotton from Turkey.

Every stage of production is as gentle on the planet as we can make it.

Are you seeing a shift in the garment industry overall? For example, does cost-efficiency play as big a role as before or do you think there is a shift towards a more quality-based approach?

Our approach has always been to never compromise on quality – even if it affects our bottom line. We create our styles to the best of our ability and do our best to keep them affordable for our customers, which is something that comes from the Danish design tradition of making high-quality objects as widely available as possible.

In terms of major shifts, there is clearly a pull from the market for more sustainable brands.

What are the plans for Andersen-Andersen in 2022 and beyond that? What do you wish to achieve next or within the next decade?

We’re close to having our whole collection GOTS-approved, which will be a major milestone for us as we try and minimise our footprint.

We feel like our collection is complete now so I’m not sure we will see any new styles, but we love making special editions and collaborations so perhaps we’ll focus more on those. The next one in the pipeline is a cotton T-shirt that we’re designing as part of the uniform for the crew of the Danish training ship, Skoleskib Danmark. andersen-andersen.com

15

Brands Cotton Candy / G-LAB

Cotton Candy

At short notice The ability to react quickly to trends and orders is becoming increasingly important. That’s why Düsseldorf-based womenswear brand Cotton Candy by Just Fashion has been focusing on its reactivity for some time now and no longer offers classic preorders. This is just one of the approaches that has enabled the company to manoeuvre relatively steadily through the pandemic: according to founder and CEO Ümit Ekinci, the brand will even be able to finish up the year 2021 with a plus of 120 percent.

The Cotton Candy fashion label has been around since 2012, so in the coming year the brand will be able to look back on a whole decade of individual, high-quality collections. But it’s not just the tenth anniversary that is cause for celebration: the fact that Cotton Candy has navigated the two crisis years of 2020 and 2021 so well may also be a reason to celebrate in the coming year. In his last interview with J’N’C Magazine, Ekinci was already quite relaxed about the ongoing pandemic situation. Although the entire industry has certainly suffered from the changes brought about by COVID, “some have suffered more, others less,” Cotton Candy can be glad that they were among the latter. As for the current state of affairs, Ümit Ekinci tells us, “Similar to 2020, we managed to have a solid turnover despite

the current situation – as of today, we’ll be ending the year in the black. That is mainly thanks to our online platform.” He’s referring to the company’s own B2B store on the brand website, which enabled Cotton Candy to increase its turnover by 125 percent from 2019 to 2020 and by 120 percent from 2020 to 2021.

But the smooth-running organisation within the company has also been a factor in its ongoing success. This positive outlook for the future is mostly down to his team, Ekinci said. Other plans for 2022 include increasing brand visibility on all channels to make a statement in the industry and generate further growth. Otherwise, he said the company plans to continue being quick off the mark: “In January, when everyone starts ordering for autumn/winter, we’ll be offering our customers our 01, 02 and 03 drops – an instant ready-to-wear range for the months of January to March.” In order to be able to react to new trends at short notice, Cotton Candy are still keeping their cards close to their chest when it comes to upcoming styles, but will continue to work with signal colours and eye-catchers. /rd cottoncandy-fashionshop.com

G-Lab

Outerwear we love German outdoor specialist G-Lab has been a pioneer in innovative materials and technological design ever since it was founded in 2009. Founder Björn Gericke, who was basically born into the outerwear business, is convinced that modern design and high-tech performance are not mutually exclusive. “Today, G-Lab Supreme Weatherwear represents a clear, modern style of clothing with an inherent performance that isn’t visible from the outside. G-Lab’s sustainability philosophy is all about being able to create true favourites that stand out with their high quality and will accompany their wearer for years to come, through different seasons,” explains Gericke.

Motivated by the desire to combine the most innovative finishing methods and functional designs from different sporting disciplines with its own exacting aesthetic demands, the brand is once again presenting a wide range of innovative styles for men and women for the upcoming autumn/winter 2022 collection. While the women’s collection features everything from voluminous A and O-shaped jackets, the men’s styles also include new puffer jackets and iconic classics like gilets. “Confronted with a new reality, which is now

influencing our social lives more than ever before, outerwear has gained more relevance as part of outfits. Our new collection offers both elegance and lightness and is bringing more sophistication and style than ever before,” says Gericke. In recent months, the company has made the most of any downtime to switch their signature fabrics to sustainable ones. The styles from the autumn/ winter 2022 collections are made with 91 percent sustainable materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester. On top of that, 83 percent of all their lining fabrics are made from fully recycled fibres. G-Lab has also switched to a new PrimaLoft padding for the new collection, which is now made of fully recycled materials. The colour palette ranges from classic tones such as navy, olive and graphite to earthy hues such as Golden Sand and Earthy Terra. The whole collection is available from G-Lab’s showrooms in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France, the Netherlands, Norway and the USA. /kw g-lab.com

1/2022

16

Brands BLAUER USA / alife & Kickin

Blauer USA

STEP INTO TOMORROW Not every brand manages to find the perfect balance between past and future. But this is something that the outerwear experts from Blauer USA seem to do effortlessly – by looking ahead to the future while also staying true to the brand’s heritage.

In their new AW22 collection for women and men, the company is focusing on iconic styles that reference the Blauer DNA – US law enforcement outerwear – while also preparing for the future.

And they have big plans this season, such as extending the colour palette of their fabrics. Eco-friendly Sorona and Repreve fillings in the down jackets and Thermofix heat-bonded seams help to protect from the elements. A particular highlight are the sweatshirts and jerseys with old stone pigment acid treatments and dyes. Another key look is the combination of shiny/matte

nylon, as well as quilted cotton, which is a new addition this season.

Blauer USA is embracing its military heritage with multi-pocket and parka models. The collection also includes neoprene sweatshirts, which are ideal for milder temperatures. Down jackets, field jackets and overshirts in various lengths and fillings are paying homage to the brand’s roots. Together with the nylon carry-over styles with basic quilting, they are a symbol of modern timelessness. And rounding things off is a range of lined nappa leather coats, along with sheepskin puffer jackets combined with down-filled nylon. The leather comes in either smooth or used-look variations. /dt blauerusa.com

Alife & Kickin

PETA-approved For its spring/summer 2022 collection ‘Choose Life’, the German streetwear brand has won the PETA Vegan Fashion Award in the ‘Best Collection’ category. Since it was founded in 2008, the label has been synonymous with modern, uncomplicated and casual silhouettes for men and women – with a focus on vegan products. Every collection is entirely free of animal products, including leather, horn buttons, wool, waxes and glues. “To make innovative, environmentally friendly and, above all, sustainable products, the choice of production facilities and responsible manufacturing methods are of paramount importance to us. We choose fair and healthy production facilities where there is no child labour and where the workers are paid a decent wage,” says the company.

For its outdoor jackets and sweat models, Alife & Kickin uses recycled polyester and is currently working on a new jacket collection with faux wool. Their blouses and trousers are made of cellulose fibre Lyocell and they use organic cotton for the jersey models.

At the foreground of every collection at Alife & Kickin are fresh

1/2022

colours, modern prints and innovative designs. The label has the PETA Approved Vegan certification and is therefore flying the flag for vegan fashion with animal-friendly materials and designs. In addition to that, Alife & Kickin has also developed its own Code of Conduct, which defines rules for the management of a socially responsible company. “We alone cannot make the world a better place, but we can make it a little more colourful! All animal products have been eliminated from our jackets and trousers. Sustainability is all about the small things that make a big difference.

Because in a world where commerce and price reign supreme, we should never forget the sustainability aspect. This guiding principle is something we consistently follow in the development and production of our collections. We firmly believe that this is our future. Not only does our brand stand out with its design and quality, but also with the way we treat our customers and the resources we have at our disposal,” explains founder Nico Jacob. /kw alifeandkickin.com

18

LABELS TO WATCH NENSI DOJAKA / BLACK PALMS / THEBE MAGUGu

Cut-outs, geometric shapes, transparency – in her collections, Albanian newcomer Nensi Dojaka presents a mix of delicate fabrics and complex tailoring, all held together with cobweb-thin, sinuous straps. For her innovative designs, Dojaka was awarded the prestigious LVMH Prize.

She draws inspiration from the 1990s and designers like Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester. Models and influencers like Emily Ratajkowski and Camille Charriere are already fans.

In Dojaka’s case we can’t really talk of an autumn/ winter collection as such, due to all the sheer, lingerielike fabrics she uses, but for AW21/22, the designer is staying true to her signature looks and drawing inspiration from Swedish artist Hilma af Klint. The Swedish painter was one of the most important pioneers of abstract painting in the early 20th century – but her work only became well-known internationally in the 1980s.

To what extent do af Klint’s works provide a template for Dojaka’s fashion? The typically filigree dresses form a graphic overlap of circles, lines and edges on the wearer’s body. In this collection Nensi Dojaka has developed her intricate visual language further, but without ever losing her own hallmarks. Along with her tulle corsets and transparent dresses, Dojaka is embracing colour for the first time with a little fuchsia dress made of iridescent material, “so it mutates according to the light,” explains the designer. Strong designs that fuse fragility with strength in an artistic way. /fs nensidojaka.com

Black Palms Everyday jewellery and fashion need to be timeless and also meet the highest quality standards. Sandra Ebert founded Black Palms around seven years ago and has been presenting timeless design made from durable materials ever since. After working at her family’s logistics company for 15 years, Ebert eventually turned her passion, her namesake blog, into her career. At the time, Ebert was the first German blogger and influencer to also launch her own fashion brand, Black Palms, which is all about making a bold statement with cool and confident details.

This winter season, Black Palms is focusing on essentials that aren’t bound to seasons or trends. Breaking away from all conventions, the label is presenting comfortable, quality styles that can be flexibly combined and are suitable for any situation that daily life throws at you. With her collection ‘The Mood’, founder Sandra Ebert and her team are inviting the wearer into their very own comfort zone with looks that satisfy the current need for wellness and relaxation – with oversized cuts, soft wool, organic cotton and a natural colour palette of smoky blue, anthracite grey and olive green. “The knitwear and sweats from our latest drop are made for relaxing and unwinding,” says the founder. All materials are meticulously selected and finished by family-run businesses in Europe. Sustainability and fair production conditions have been two of the label’s most important pillars since it was established. /fs black-palms-label.com

1/2022

Credit: Thebe Magugu by Kristin-Lee Moolman

Thebe Magugu

Credit: Nensi Dojaka by Angelo Pennetta

Nensi Dojaka

Synonymous with South African luxury fashion and progressive design, Thebe Magugu is one of the year’s most promising designers – and the first African designer to win the coveted LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.

Magugu, who studied at the LISOF institution in Johannesburg, combines the aesthetics of his homeland with futuristic design, thereby creating a new identity that is bound by neither time nor place. He creates complex collections that come from a combination of the history-steeped past, digital present and exciting future of the African continent.

In his autumn/winter 2021/22 collection entitled ‘The Alchemy Collection’, Magugu is concentrating on African spirituality. The designer was inspired by his personal surroundings as well as human relationships, ancestors and traditional African healers. Is there more to the world than what we can see? And what comes afterwards? Magugu has provided the Western fashion world with insights into his connection to spirituality by collaborating with filmmaker Kristin-Lee Moolman, who directed the fashion film ‘Banyoloyi A Bosigo’ that was screened during Paris Fashion Week and tells the love story between two members of rivalling tribes. “I like the idea of creating heroes and mythologies around South African women […] – an intersectional view of Africa. In the same way the westerns romanticised and reclaimed that period of American history, we too must form our own narratives and realities outside of ‘perpetual victimhood’,” Moolman says. /fs thebemagugu.com

20

Credit: Dawn Denim

Essay UPCYCLING

Second life, second chance Thanks to our throwaway culture, the mountains of old clothes just keep getting higher. But more and more labels are treating used textiles as a resource. Upcycling is on trend. And the fashion retail sector is starting to sit up and take notice.

Text: Wolfgang Altmann

Our fashion consumption has doubled in the past decade. According to a Greenpeace study, every adult in Germany owns 95 pieces of clothing on average, and adds around 60 new ones every year. This development is mainly down to the fast-fashion phenomenon, which often encourages unnecessary impulse buys.

During the COVID lockdowns, many people became aware of how much stuff they had accumulated over the years and finally found the time to have to a thorough wardrobe clear-out. But what should we do with our unwanted garments that are often as good as new?

Turning old into new Mariko Takahashi and Eugenie Schmidt from Berlin were quick to catch on to the fact that upcycling can be an ideal solution: in 2010 they founded the label Schmidttakahashi, which is known for its minimalist patchwork. And they have plenty of fans in the German capital who supply the upcycling pioneers with old textiles. These then land in the archive from which Eugenie Schmidt also sources materials for her new label Schmitd, which she launched this past September – Schmitd ending in td rather than dt, simply because there was no other domain available.

Her design principle is similar to that of Schmidttakahashi. In her designs for Schmitd, the designer takes old clothing and transforms it. “There has to be something that annoys me about the item,” she explains of her creative process. Sometimes it’s something as minor as the cuffs, which she will just cut off. But sometimes the original garment is changed beyond recognition. The new label also boasts creative patchwork. But the details are more playful and the shapes more opulent.

Currently, Eugenie Schmidt is only selling her one-off pieces via Instagram and her own online shop. Expanding her distribution is next on the agenda. “There’s certainly interest there,” Schmidt says happily, explaining that there are a growing number of online stores selling upcycled fashion, such as Browns Fashion, End

1/2022

Clothing and LN-CC. The pandemic has also made retailers in the luxury segment rethink their approach, such as French designer Marine Serre who is enjoying international success with her upcycling collection.

Every German resident throws an average of 16 GARMENTS into clothing collection bins each year.

That’s 1.1 million tonnes in total.

Raw material: old jeans Avenir from Berlin is also selling its upcycled fashion via online stores like Habitus, Entire Stories and Staiy. The label’s USP: patchwork made from old denim. “This material is ideal for patchwork.

It’s robust and retains its quality, even in its second life,” says cofounder Sophie Louise Claussen. A graduate of the HAW (Training Centre for Trade and Commerce Berlin), she hit on the idea of setting up an upcycling label during a tailoring course she was taking at Central Saint Martins in London, where she also helped out at the shows during Fashion Week. Exasperated by the problem of overproduction, she started to research the topic of textile waste together with her old friend Niklas Florian Schütt: “We started helping out at used clothing collection and donation points. And we went to the big recyclers to get a better understanding of how much is really coming in.”

The numbers are eye-watering. According to the Consumer Advice Centre in North-Rhine Westphalia, every German resident throws an average of 16 garments into clothing collection bins each year.

That’s 1.1 million tonnes in total. A mere 10 percent end up in thrift

stores or donation centres like Textilhafen in Berlin, which is where Claussen gets her raw materials from. She unpicks the old jeans to make new ones and also offers jackets, trousers and shirts made of surplus fabrics. It’s a little-known fact that there is also an overproduction issue in the fabric industry. “Just like in the fashion industry, textiles are produced in advance, with the assumption that they’ll be bought,” explains the designer. And it’s often more prof-itable to produce surplus amounts rather than having to readjust the machines for each order. That takes time. There are specific suppliers for different types of remainder stock, like the one in Schwäbisch Hall where Claussen sources her Italian fabrics from. And they are just as good as the current fabrics in terms of quality and design.

Repairing instead of upcycling But do our old clothes really need to end up in collection bins? This is a question Diesel asked itself last summer before going on to launch a buy-back initiative for old jeans with the aim of reintroducing them into the consumer cycle. Under the self-explanatory name ‘Second Hand’, Diesel offered to buy back old models that could be handed in at selected Italian Diesel stores. Most of them are from the 2000s and 2010s,” the company spokesperson says. But apparently there were also some great examples from the 80s and 90s too. 900 pairs of jeans were collected in total and, after careful restoration and reconditioning, they are now available to buy online and in selected stores. The first sales figures are encouraging. “On the very first day we sold 50 pairs,” says Diesel. So they are keen to repeat the experiment in other countries, which would be great. Because in our book, every pair of jeans that isn’t made from scratch is a good pair of jeans – and the environment agrees. avenirberlin.de diesel.com schmitd.net

We proudly present the winner of the

Category Best Collection

www.alifeandkickin.com

It‘s easy to be sustainable. Just be ALIFE.

22

Brains behind the Brands Elias Rumelis, founder of Elias Rumelis & Eli by Elias Rumelis

1/2022

23

Brains behind the Brands Elias Rumelis, founder of Elias Rumelis & Eli by Elias Rumelis

The cool chameleon from Frankfurt Something that Elias Rumelis has certainly mastered over the years is the art of cool – and now, in his own unique way, the designer is translating it into clothing for us.

Interview: Pierre D’Aveta & Cheryll Mühlen / Photos: Isaak Papadopoulos

When it comes to the fashion game, the saying ‘You can’t teach an old dog, new tricks’ certainly doesn’t apply to Elias Rumelis. He has been in the fashion business for the past 27 years and uses his experience and expertise to create his own creative platforms.

After being responsible for the design and production of denim brand M.O.D. for several years, Elias Rumelis founded his own label in 2015: Elias Rumelis (which was called ER Denim to begin with). In 2021, this was followed by his new brand Eli by Elias Rumelis, which made its debut at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin in January 2021.

When you get to know Elias Rumelis, you quickly realise that he doesn’t shy away from change, but welcomes it. He is also happy to be guided by his 18-year-old twins Ben and Noah. Even when they were children, they would ask him why he didn’t start his own brand because he would regularly bring back jeans that he had designed himself from his numerous business trips – complete with his initials, of course. This idea soon became a reality.

From then on, Elias Rumelis wanted his look to be unique. Exclusive, with his very own signature – but still commercial. It’s a balancing act that he masters with flying colours, in both his womenswear and menswear collections. And the new brand, Eli by Elias Rumelis, is riding even higher in the fashion stakes. Here, the experienced designer and businessman is setting himself no limits. The looks are clearly younger and edgier, but just as cool – something we have come to expect from him. With slogans like #NeverOwned and #AlwaysYours, he makes clear statements for individuality and plays with contradictions. It’s his almost down-to-earth approach to fashion that, contrary to what one might expect, allows him to experiment with complex ideas without losing focus: comfortable, casual and cool is his magic formula. You should feel dressed up, not dressed down, in his designs. And that’s exactly the fine art of it.

Elias, we always meet in various airports around the world. I once bumped into you in Istanbul, when you were on your way back from visiting your producers. What surprised me is that you are there regularly and really do make your collections yourself.

Yes, I’m in Istanbul pretty much every two weeks to check everything on site, make my own designs there, work on cuts, washes or whatever happens to be going on at the time. And it’s important for me to be there so I can be sure that everything’s running smoothly.

So you still have a direct influence on your collections. Where do you get the ideas and inspiration?

It’s in my DNA to design product groups in a new fresh way and differently to other brands, with surprising details and comfortable cuts. Not too much and not too little. But everything is always tailored to my clients’ needs, which I am meanwhile well acquainted with.

But a creative person like you probably finds inspiration wherever you go – in different cities, for example.

Yes, cities like Paris, London and Barcelona are very inspiring to me, but it’s really everyday things. I see a bag that I like and then I translate it into a sweatshirt. It can be any object, because it’s really pure imagination, which I am lucky enough to have been gifted with. I always take the alternative route.

How has the Elias Rumelis look changed over the years?

Elias Rumelis started out as a denim brand. Almost two years later, we expanded the collection to a full collection for men and women.

Denim still plays an important role and we even have 60 different NOS denims in the range for 2022. The collection is continuing to grow, so there are new product groups being added. We’re starting to design accessories now, including bags. When the time is right, we’ll continue to add new product groups.

The last two years have been very disruptive for the fashion world. Not only have customers’ needs changed rapidly, but also the internal structures of many fashion companies. How did Elias Rumelis navigate its way through this period?

We work really closely with our clients. That’s our strength. So we really tried as best we could to support retailers during that time. You can only get through these difficult situations by sticking together. For example, we used all our powers of persuasion to encourage some of our customers to launch their own online stores or become active on social media. And it worked. I guess you could say we had to show them the door to their own success.

With Eli by Elias Rumelis, you are even taking an alternative route within your own company. What is it that sets this collection apart?

Elias Rumelis is a bit more commercial. As I said before, I really tailor the designs to my customers – but still with my DNA. I translate important high fashion trends into wearable, comfortable streetwear. With Eli, I can really let my creative juices flow. It’s edgier and aimed at a younger target group, which is why my kids are relevant here again: at 18, they are now exactly at the age where things get more fashionable and a little bolder. That gave me the idea to do something a bit more daring too. At Eli, there are no compromises. I only do what’s in my head.

What values do you think are top priorities for the industry today? And where is your fashion positioned in that?

It’s all headed in the sustainable direction. And we are also trying to move in that direction as quickly as possible. Starting with the employees in the production phase. We already think of our production partners almost like family. In terms of fabrics, we’ve already added some organic ones, but not to the extent that I would call ourselves sustainable. But we are working on it. These things don’t happen overnight; it’s an ongoing process. At Eli, on the other hand, everything is already made from Pima and organic cotton – except the denims. And even with the denims, I’m in the process of shifting over to sustainable production – but these things take time.

Do you get honest feedback from your sons?

Yes, of course, and I also listen to them. They’re a different generation. Young people these days are different and that’s a good thing.

When talking about your fashion, it’s hard to avoid the term avantgarde, and you don’t really seem to do mainstream. Is it difficult to find that balance, especially in a field that thrives off the mainstream?

1/2022

24

Brains behind the Brands Elias Rumelis, founder of Elias Rumelis & Eli by Elias Rumelis

It doesn’t really matter what you call it or what you do – avantgarde or mainstream. There is more than just one direction. Everything changes – myself, how I am evolving, my brands. Sometimes I make suits, then something sporty, then denim again. I’m like a chameleon.

because, as one of the few Frankfurt designers, we have to support each other.

You can’t take on the whole world in one fell swoop. We’ll conquer Europe first and then the rest will come step by step.

What are you most looking forward to in 2022 and what direction are you planning on taking your fashion brands?

Our goal is to strengthen our brand across Europe and always go one better in terms of design. That’s my strength: I’m always reinventing myself. But yes, growth is important to us, and I sincerely hope that the pandemic situation calms down and everyone can get back to doing business together. We look forward to offering our customers a strong denim NOS range with 60 SKUs in 2022.

That allows for our clients to plan properly.

We have proactively adapted processes because of the difficulties we had due to the pandemic, so there will be no more problems with the timings. We responded directly to those pandemic issues, immediately talked to our suppliers and adjusted the schedule for the spring/summer collection in 2022 to make sure we are ideally positioned in 2022.

As a German company based in Frankfurt am Main, away from the typical fashion hotspots, other than Frankfurt Fashion Week, you are quite internationally positioned.

We are already very strong in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Holland, but are now also in talks with retailers in Russia, Italy and France.

And what about Scandinavia?

We want to go there too, but gradually. You can’t take on the whole world in one fell swoop. We’ll conquer Europe first and then the rest will come step by step. As for the USA, we’ll add them to the list once the global situation has stabilised.

Then let’s get back to your roots: you’re passionate about your origins. Now Frankfurt Fashion Week offers you a kind of home turf advantage. What advantages do you see in Frankfurt in general that others might not, especially from a fashion perspective?

Let’s put it this way: Frankfurt is the centre of Germany. And many people arrive at Frankfurt Airport from abroad. I think that’s very handy. From a purely personal point of view, of course I think it’s great because we’re at home here.

Will you be there in January?

We had planned a larger booth, but postponed it to the summer for health and safety reasons. We are very grateful for the close cooperation with Premium and Anita Tillmann’s team. It was important to us not to cancel the booking. Of course we will visit the fair,

1/2022

Do you miss networking and meeting at the tradeshows?

Yes, definitely. For me, it’s not just about checking out what other people are doing, but also about getting together. I really miss that.

The supply chain issue is still causing growing pains for some companies at the moment.

Yes, some brands are finding it hard to deliver on time.

But it’s not a problem for you?

I think we can commit to delivering promptly. To be honest, I started production very, very early. Of course, you have to be in a position to do that financially, but it was important to me, because delivery times have gone from three to 14 weeks – and that’s if you’re lucky.

Let’s finish by indulging in a little ‘what if...’: where would you be today if you hadn’t started your brand?

I think my position would be the same: design and production, whatever the direction. I might not have my own brand or my own company, but I still think I would be making others happy and producing for them. I definitely wouldn’t be sitting in an office though.

That’s just not me (laughing)! elias-rumelis.com eli.fashion

25

Brains behind the Brands Elias Rumelis, founder of Elias Rumelis & Eli by Elias Rumelis

At Elias Rumelis, I translate key high fashion trends into wearable, comfortable streetwear. There are no compromises at Eli, so those looks can be edgier.

King of Cool – Elias Rumelis wearing one of his own designs.

1/2022

26

Brains behind the Brands Michael Azoulay, founder of American Vintage

The best of both worlds From a simple white tee and a pair of denim jeans to a wide and varied product range with one constant: the highest possible quality. American Vintage founder Michael Azoulay talks to us about the longevity of his brand and the challenges his fashion company will face in 2022.

Interview: Franka Schmid

American Vintage combines casualwear with a French sense of style. What values from these two worlds does American Vintage encapsulate?

American Vintage is cosmopolitan and international. The brand perfectly mirrors the city of Marseille with its cosmopolitan side, as well as the romantic and sensual spirit of France as a whole. On the other hand, the American attitude, the drive to continue onwards and cross boundaries is also present. Americans are more down to earth and have more of a demand for comfort, so there’s always a big need for T-shirts and various washes. So the American Vintage brand is a mix of all those aspects.

Quality is your foundation, as well as your philosophy. What attributes do you most value and where do you source your fabrics from?

We like to work with filigree, fine, fragile materials that aren’t easy to produce and dye simply because they’re quite innovative. We don’t want fragility to be mistaken for poor quality but hope to be able to show our customers that some products simply require a bit more effort to look after. With these kinds of materials, we like to go off the beaten track and move away from the mainstream.

That’s what challenges us every day. It takes time but we know our products inside out by now. With every season, we’ve been able to develop the right yarns, machines, needles, washes and the right types of dyes. Meanwhile our customers have learnt to love these products and know how to look after them so they last for many years to come.

design and develop fashion for everyday wear. I grew up in a world that I like, in a pleasant working environment. It’s my personal adventure playground! When it comes to creativity and creation, you need to know what you’re doing, where you are, and you need to position yourself.

Let’s talk about the bricks-and-mortar stores. How do you see the future of the retail trade developing?

I like to think about the store of the future.

The future is a store with less inventory.

There should be more room and time for the shopping experience with space for art, music and sound. I am in favour of more events and experiences with our clients and want to see more experimental activities in our stores.

How would you describe the DNA of the brand when it was founded compared to its DNA today?

From a T-shirt brand that started out as quite vintage, with lots of logos and embroideries, we have gone on to develop an entire wardrobe. The brand has stayed true to its values, remaining authentic in its products and materials. We focused Michael Azoulay has high expectations of himself and his company: on our DNA, on the concept, and we still "I always try to keep moving forward, crossing boundaries and overcoming managed to move with the times. When any hurdles in our way." we started, we focused on 100 percent cotton for white T-shirts. We tried to develop 100 percent cotton fabrics in a variety of shapes and cuts in order to offer a complete range of white T-shirts. Today we have tried to revisit and We’re concentrating on T-shirts, knitwear, coats and denims. Our rework this authentic piece to modernise it. knitwear and tees are the bestsellers.

The same can be said for our denims; our trademark is 100 percent cotton. We are looking for authentic jeans and thick fabrics Are you still involved in the design process yourself?

American Vintage started off as a T-shirt line and then develYes, I am. I’m a long way off from being a haute couture designer but with enough flexibility. We are trying to offer more authentic oped into a wide range of products across all genders. What but thanks to my experience in this area, cooperating with stylists, washes. With a combination of our shirts and denim jeans, men product groups are you concentrating on at the moment and and women can go through all stages of their lives with these product managers, collection managers and art directors, we what are your bestsellers?

1/2022

27

Brains behind the Brands Michael Azoulay, founder of American Vintage

1/2022

28

Brains behind the Brands Michael Azoulay, founder of American Vintage

few basics and wear them as timeless pieces for many years.

Our strength is offering a complete wardrobe based on authentic materials.

Where is American Vintage made?

We produce in Portugal, China, Bulgaria, Tunisia and Morocco.

There are specifications that all our suppliers have to sign every season, which commits them to ensuring certain working conditions.

How would you describe the typical American Vintage customer? What values are important to them?

We are known for our work with materials and colours. Diverse and innovative, but also approachable for people who love fashion. I love hearing that people who really value fashion often recognise our balance, our creativity, our timelessness and our pricing. American Vintage is a brand that has been able to continue evolving over time without losing its DNA. Let’s talk about sustainability. What do you think the future of fashion holds?

I think fashion will play a very important role in our daily lives and continue to do so in the future. The more responsibly we act now, the better our future will be. With responsible behaviour, not only in production, but throughout the whole supply chain. That means within the company, in management and also in training.

That is why American Vintage has also developed our American Vintage Camp to educate and inform our employees.

1/2022

How are you contributing to reducing the American Vintage footprint in terms of environmental impact?

That starts with our company headquarters near Marseille where the wellbeing of our team is one of our most important values. Recycling and being plastic-free goes hand in hand with light-filled working spaces that inspire creativity. Everything in the stores is designed to minimise our environmental footprint: vintage furniture, energyefficient LED light bulbs and air-cooled air conditioning rather than water-cooled, all of which help to reduce energy consumption. 75 percent of our production sites are Euromed and we have short supply chains to avoid waste and achieve more speed, flexibility and agility. This helps us to produce better rather than overproducing.

We have continued to use natural fibres and prefer materials certified with the Oeko-Tex label. Our sweaters and T-shirts are made from American Supima cotton and our knitwear is made of biodegradable wool. Our denim canvas has been redeveloped to ensure it’s still as durable as ever but now uses less water. And finally, for several seasons now, our dyes also contain vegetable dyestuffs that are produced using environmentally friendly methods.

Can we expect any special partnerships, capsule collections or similar in the future?

I can’t say anything on that topic right now.

What’s your long-term vision for American Vintage?

In the coming years, we want to be even more responsible. We want to open up to the planet and try to explore other continents

and markets where we have had little or no presence. We are going to grow on a global scale, so we need to broaden our vision and our boundaries to ensure we don’t focus too much on our home turf or on one single area. We’re going international, staying true to what we do and what we can do. But we still want to have fun, push fashion, be bold and remain carefree and crazy. We’re trying to be more responsible, grow our teams, become stronger, more diverse, more cosmopolitan, and ultimately have a 360° vision of the company and continue to learn together. Thanks to our values, there is a great mix of younger and more experienced employees at American Vintage. This mix of generations is very important in all positions within our company.

What does the American dream mean to you and how does it tie in with American Vintage?

The American attitude to business and entrepreneurship has always inspired me. Nowadays I use it to continue to develop the brand; I always try to keep moving forward, crossing boundaries and overcoming any hurdles in our way. Part of that is also about travelling, remaining open and nurturing a cosmopolitan mindset.

What are you personally looking forward to most for 2022?

To improving the company as a whole. americanvintage-store.com

30

Brains behind the Brands Mario Giannini, founder of DOUCAL’s

Mario Giannini (top left), founder of Doucal’s, is building a bridge between tradition and modernity.

The art of footwear craftsmanship – made in Italy Italy’s expertise in leather craftsmanship is undeniable. But what is the special ingredient that makes Doucal’s shoes stand out from those of other brands?

Text: Franka Schmid

The best of both worlds: Doucal’s combines the style and quality of classic British shoes with the craftsmanship of Italy. It’s an idea that founder Mario Giannini didn’t just come up with yesterday.

Back in the late 60s the traditional company provided aristocratic clients with the highest quality leather shoes. “Food for the various popes were traditionally sourced from our area. Montegranaro, the city where Doucal’s was founded, can trace its origins back to antiquity and looks back on a rich history,” Creative Director Gianni Giannini tells us in an interview. To develop the collections, Giannini’s father regularly travelled to Northampton, learning everything he could about British cobbling skills, which back then dominated the European market, especially in the 1970s.

Doucal’s finest models, from Derbys to Richelieus down to ankle boots, became famous all over Italy.

Despite their visual source of inspiration, Doucal’s remains an Italian family-run company, strongly influenced in the second generation by siblings Gianni and Jerry. The brothers still live next door to each other and share the responsibilities: Jerry

1/2022

deals with marketing and distribution while Gianni looks after the design side of things. “Every handcrafted product from Doucal’s remains true to the traditions of the region, which have been passed on from father to son since 1973. The sophisticated design, choice of materials and details combine with the softness and lightness of the shoes,” explains Gianni Giannini.

In the current autumn/winter 2021/22 collections, this lightness meets first-class style, two aspects that represent nonchalance and freedom of movement.

Businesswear is losing its rigid look, which used to be dominated by ties and grey suits, freeing itself from the outdated image. Traditional tailoring has been given a good dusting off and now ultralightweight rubber soles and technical details are bringing a modern feel to Doucal’s designs. It would seem that even shoes can fulfil the desire for comfort and protection that has become so important these past few years. This is why Doucal’s have chosen soft rubber to encase their traditional leather materials in classic models including Derbys, brogues and loafers, but especially Chelsea boots

with a rounded toe. A new desire for freedom corresponds with the greater desire for outdoor shoes. With their autumn/winter 2021/22 collection, Doucal’s are celebrating their love of nature, highlighting special models like walking shoes and monkey boots that can also be worn on city streets.

It takes 100 different steps to make Doucal’s shoes and they are all carried out in the altitudinous village of Montegranaro in the Province of Fermo.

Each phase of production, from leather to quality control, is carried out within the company. To ensure the highest quality possible, each shoe needs at least two months to meet all the brand’s exacting requirements. While the leather is usually cut by laser with the help of gigantic machines, at Doucal’s all the steps in the shoemaking process are done by hand – from working on the uppers to dyeing, patinating, waxing and polishing. The handcrafted process can sometimes take several hours. “More important than the brand or product are our team and the pride they have in the work they do: for us, this is a fundamental value,” says Gianni Giannini. Doucal’s employees have known

each other for years, usually living just a few kilometres from the production site and come to work by bike – no doubt some of them wearing Doucal’s themselves.

In order to be successful, it is more important than ever to not only have a good relationship with your staff but also your customers, strengthening trust and maintaining it. After all, if you are acquainted with quality when you are young, it is something you will pass on to your children and grandchildren. It’s a way of thinking about the brand that is passed on from generation to generation. At the same time, it’s still important to keep up with the times. But progress and heritage are not mutually exclusive, as is proven at Doucal’s.

“Refined and sophisticated design is the key factor for the brand’s success. We want to revive the elegance of Italian craftsmanship in an innovative and modern way. Our goal is to create a link between tradition and innovation,” explains Gianni Giannini, looking optimistically towards the future. doucals.com

SEE YOU IN SUMMER 5 - 7 JULY, 2022 STAY TUNED

32

Brains behind the Brands Jamel Khadir, VICE PRESIDENT FOR MARKETING & SALES IN EUROPE, THE MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA, K-SWISS

Tennis legacy American sneaker label K-Swiss has its roots in tennis. 55 years after it was founded, the company now has its sights set on Central Europe and plans to build on its pop culture status. We spoke about these and other plans with Jamel Khadir, K-Swiss Vice President for Marketing and Sales in Europe, the Middle East and Africa.

Interview: Jenni Koutni

Mr Khadir, K-Swiss was founded in 1966 when two Swiss brothers moved to California to make tennis shoes. How do you merge this Swiss heritage with the American Dream today?

Frankly speaking, besides the origin of the two founders and their innovative spirit, there’s not actually a lot of ‘Swiss’ in the K-Swiss brand. It is understood that the technology that inspired the two brothers came directly from the design of leather ski boots in the 1960s, which were fastened with five buckles. They decided to apply a similar system to leather tennis shoes and created the first K-Swiss Classic 66 with five bands to hold the foot in place better when in lateral motion, the D-rings for more efficient lacing, and so on. Nevertheless, since its creation, K-Swiss remains a true American tennis brand, rooted in Los Angeles, California.

There are currently many new material innovations on the sneaker market, from pineapple leather to sneakers made with coffee grounds.

K-Swiss designed the very first leather tennis

1/2022

shoe. Could you imagine using one of these new plant-based alternatives in the future?

Sustainability is a very important aspect of our five-year strategic plan and we are looking at it in three different ways. First of all, we want to maintain high quality standards in the complete collection to ensure durable products. Then, we are integrating recycled materials into our new products, like textile uppers, metallic parts and rubber. For instance, in SS22 we are introducing the SlammClassic style, which is made using certified leather from gold-rated tanneries. Finally, we are also keeping the door open to special series made in Europe in the mid-term. In that sense, it’s interesting that you raise the question of plant-based leather as this was one of the solutions proposed by our suppliers. Whenever these plant-based materials can provide the same performance as leather, we think that it could become a real sustainable alternative in the future.

Over the decades, K-Swiss also had models for basketball and running shoes. In addition

to tennis shoes, the range also includes a large selection for the new trend sport padel. Could there be shoes for other sports in the future?

K-Swiss has its roots in tennis and will continue to focus on tennis and court sneakers in the future. Tennis is more than a sport – it drives an inspir-ing lifestyle that carries strong values shared across different sports or trends. Padel is becoming a big trend in Europe but, as a sport, it has always been very big in Spain, where K-Swiss has a significant market share. On a wider scope, we’ve always developed shoes for training or running both for our athletes and the matching market trends like basketball or skateboard in the 90s. From all these decades, 80s, 90s, 2000s, we have lots of great archives with innovative technologies like the VisTech techno that is being used on the upcoming new Rannel OG in AW22. But we’re not promoting the performance aspect of these sneakers, which were a true innovation back in the day… today it’s more the authentic lifestyle look that gives them their appeal.

In 2019, K-Swiss launched a surprising capsule collection designed especially for CEOs. Does this mean that the whole ‘target group’ concept is cancelled, or is K-Swiss still focusing on a specific group of buyers?

The CEO campaign was meant to highlight all the values of entrepreneurship: resilience, courage, focus. We were making a direct link with tennis values and the way of life of the Californian start-uppers. This approach was followed in 2021, by our ‘Dreamers and Doers’ campaign. And in 2022, we are launching ‘Legacy Makers’. We are adapting our collection to our consumer groups with specific seasonal brand campaigns. But we always remain true to who we are: American heritage tennis with a dash of spice!

In the 70s, the five-stripe K-Swiss models were mainly seen on the tennis court, but in the 90s they also found their way into street culture.

How much are the boundaries between sportswear and streetwear blurring these days?

33

Brains behind the Brands Jamel Khadir, VICE PRESIDENT FOR MARKETING & SALES IN EUROPE, THE MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA, K-SWISS

1/2022

34

Brains behind the Brands Jamel Khadir, VICE PRESIDENT FOR MARKETING & SALES IN EUROPE, THE MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA, K-SWISS

For sure, our growth potential is within what we call the lifestyle category. Therefore, the blurred line between sportswear and streetwear creates a perfect moment for a brand like K-Swiss: from the hip-hop scene of the 90s to breakdance contests, from basketball to parkours, from tennis to eSports, there a ton of potential that we are carefully keeping an eye on.

Do you intend to expand your range of clothing at some point?

Actually, this is an essential pillar of our business plan. K-Swiss will be developing a streetwear and sportswear collection in the next two years. Our global team based in Los Angeles is coordinating that together with our Asian office.

Venus Williams is one of the brand’s bestknown collaborators. How important are such testimonials in the sports shoe sector?

Sport marketing is essential to promote our performance tennis collections, but it is also important to create a holistic approach to our brand territory from tennis court to streetwear. Venus Williams is indeed one of our global ambassadors, but she actually promotes our lifestyle footwear collections more, in conjunction with her own brand Eleven by Venus. We currently benefit from strong visibility at international tournaments thanks to Cameron Norrie, Fabio Fognini and Ajla Tomljanovic. We will announce more ambassadors in 2022, both men and women players ranked among the best 50 players in the world.

1/2022

In 2020 the first co-designed collection in the long history of K-Swiss was announced when you gave rapper YG the opportunity to revise the classic LX sneaker, which he did with silver glitter. Are there any similar collaborations awaiting us in the future?

Our goal is to create brand heat in Europe. We are therefore working on a collaboration plan with different energy marketing activations in the coming months and years. We are preparing a mix of collaborations with Tear 0 sneakerdoors and partnerships with brands with whom we share common vision or history. Our influencer programme will also help us quickly grow our communities on social media and we know that our global team in Los Angeles is working on some bigger announcements too.

In Europe, our mission is to reposition K-Swiss and elevate the brand from a product, marketing and distribution perspective.

In 2019, K-Swiss was taken over by the Chinese sportswear company Xtep, based in Hong Kong. With the almost 7000 mono-

brand stores from Xtep, K-Swiss saw great opportunities for expansion. Has the pandemic put these projects on hold or was it still possible to gain a foothold in China?

Since August 2019 and the buy-out of KSGB (K-Swiss and Palladium brands) by Xtep, we have initiated multiple projects from design, product, marketing, retail, IT, supply chain etc. We see this move as very beneficial to our brand development, but the pandemic forced us to adapt our plans and timelines. This is true for us in Europe as much as it is for K-Swiss in China. In China in particular, we will gain a market share as soon as we feel ready with a complete head-to-toe offer and retail concept that is planned to go live in early 2022.

Has K-Swiss learnt any lessons during the past two years of global crisis?

I think everyone is learning from this worldwide crisis every day. We believe that we managed the retail lockdowns across Europe well by accelerating our online presence with our own e-commerce and our partners but also with newly created social media campaigns. Europe started to reopen its stores in spring 2021 and we were optimistic.

Unfortunately, when the factory lockdowns started in July 2021 in Vietnam, no one knew it would last for more than three months. Most of our production is done in Southeast Asia. When you combine this, together with transportation difficulties and price increases, you learn a lot from the situation. We had to cancel a significant quantity of our AW21 production, which had a direct im-

pact on our budget. One alternative would be to localise production but the industrial landscape in Europe is very limited compared to Asia.

How are you planning on driving forward the business in Europe?

In Europe, our mission is to reposition K-Swiss and elevate the brand from a product, marketing and distribution perspective. We have identified three key countries as our priority: Germany, France and the UK. As an example, K-Swiss has almost no sales history in France, therefore we have a great opportunity to explain the brand and establish solid foundations with selected distributors. We’ll also be using the power of our own design centre in Lyon to make sure that we can meet European needs by developing specific collections.

“Most shoe companies are proud of how many shoes they make. We’re proud of how few”: that was the slogan used in a K-Swiss advertisement from 1986. How do you feel about this guiding principle amid huge competitive pressure in the clothing industry and consumers regularly demanding new products?

I hadn’t heard of that ad slogan before, but I like it! We are very humble in who we are today.

I’d rather say that we are moving step by step, making sure that we’re building solid foundations to re-establish the brand on the European retail landscape and, more importantly, to win over the hearts of authentic sneaker lovers. kswiss.de

36

Tradeshow PREVIEW Denim Première Vision / Pitti Immagine Uomo

Credit: Patrick Robyn

DENIM Première Vision

Premiere in Berlin In October, Première Vision celebrated its physical return by finally welcoming exhibitors and visitors in person again, this time in Milan. And in May 2022 the event is heading to Berlin for the first time. Manon Mangin, Head of Denim Fashion Products at Première Vision, tells us which trends will be defining the SS23 season and what the industry can look forward to at the next edition.

Text: Cheryll Mühlen The team at Denim Première Vision wants to offer their exhibitors and visitors a platform that combines the very best features of a tradeshow – both offline and online. The word ‘experience’ is paramount here – not only in a literal sense, by offering a varied accompanying line-up of events, but also the opportunity to be able to touch, feel and experience the fabrics, buttons and other details up close – which is what sets a sourcing fair apart in the first place.

And of course a change in location, like the one to Arena Berlin, can provide new inspiration and even reach a new audience. “Germany is a different market, with different brands and perhaps even different clients,” explains Manon Mangin, before adding: “We connect with Berlin’s atmosphere. This cosmopolitan city attracts many different styles. It’s a big mix, which we believe really resonates with where denim is heading. We’re very excited for Berlin.” In the German capital, the current SS23 trends will be adapted for the AW23 season. Mangin sums up what the future of denim holds: “Denim is really stepping out of its comfort zone and becoming even more hybrid.

Different fashion styles and universes are being mixed together, making denim even more versatile – whether for everyday wear, going out at the weekend or even something a bit more chic – thanks to organza or fluid handles for example.” The shift from seasonality to sustainability will, according to Mangin, also become more apparent than ever. There’s also a lot being done when it comes to fibres and dyeing, and also in terms of traceability, she tells us. “Creating traceable DNA and placing a tracker in the yarn is something that we haven’t really seen before, and that is really growing.”

And in answer to our question of what she's most looking forward to next year, she says: “We were supposed to do a show in Berlin in November 2020. Now that it’s been postponed to May 2022, I’m looking forward to a completely different, almost summery atmosphere right on the banks of the River Spree. It will give the whole show an incredible vibe. We’re really looking forward to it.” premierevision.com

Pitti Uomo

FLORENCE CALLING! It’s only a few days until the next edition of Pitti Immagine. From 11-12 January 2022, an international audience, aspiring designers and noteworthy brands will be getting together at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence for the 101st edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo. Here’s a sneak peek.

Text: Franka Schmid Health and safety is the number one priority for the organisers this coming season – especially for international guests coming from afar to preview the latest collections and brands. “With a renewed exhibition format that is, as always, based on the same selection, curatorship and communication principles, Pitti Uomo (…) has become a point of reference worldwide for menswear and lifestyle,” says Rafaello Napoleone, Managing Director of Pitti Immagine.

As the tradeshow’s theme, the organisers are presenting ‘Pitti Reflections’ designed by Creative Director Angelo Figus. The central element here is the mirror and the way it reflects a multitude of impressions and perspectives. ‘Pitti Reflections’ is calling for self-reflection and embodies the desire to question ourselves and to go in search of what has to be yet revealed.

This theme will be extended over three areas that visually reflect the latest menswear trends. One of them is ‘Fantastic Classic’, which will showcase a selection of well-known brands that are exploring new innovations in classic menswear (from technical outerwear to tailormade trousers). Presented in Piano Attico, one of the most important areas of Pitti Uomo, ‘Futuro Maschile’ will become one of the new master projects and combines contemporary classic menswear with sportswear. A second area, ‘Dynamic Attitude’ combines sportswear with streetwear and showcases outdoor fashion with modern elements and elegant designs. And last but not least, the ‘Superstyling’ area will be surprising visitors with new aesthetic and experimental visions presented by brands and collections with extraordinary creative potential. Within that special area there will be a special focus on sustainability: as an exhibition project, ‘Sustainable Style’ is dedicated to a new selection of green brands that create and produce with ecological awareness. ‘Pitti Reflections’ will also be presenting Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester as a special guest. Her eponymous label is a reflection of her determination to carve a niche for herself in the international fashion scene without conforming to the usual industry conventions. “The labels are responding with enthusiasm. Instead of concealing the fact that there are difficulties, they are proving to be full of energy and have a firm desire to represent themselves once again,” says an upbeat Rafaello Napoleone. uomo.pittimmagine.com

1/2022

SHOWS NEXT

3 - 4/05/2022 30 - 31/08/2022 INTERNATIONAL DENIM TRADE SHOW

AUTUMN.WINTER 23/24

AUTUMN.WINTER 23/24

21 - 22/06/2022 PREVIEW TEXTILE SHOW

30/08 - 01/09/2022 INTERNATIONAL FABRIC TRADE SHOW

F O LLOW U S O N

B L U E Z O N E . S H O W | V I E W M U N I C H . C O M | M U N I C H F A B R I C S TA R T. C O M

38

The last Word Giovanna Engelbert, Creative Director of Swarovski

New location:

Credit: German Larkin

The latest Instant Wonder store opened in Zurich in November. “In designing the Zurich flagship store, we wanted to recreate that sense of wonder, feeling and discovery that Daniel Swarovski aimed to convey with every crystal over 127 years ago,” Giovanna Engelbert tells us. In total, 27 new Instant Wonder stores have already been launched worldwide since 2021.

The last word … BELONGS TO GIOVANNA ENGELBERT, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF SWAROVSKI Swarovski’s first creative director certainly hasn’t disappointed. The crystal and fashion jewellery empire is benefiting from the glitz and glamour of Giovanna Engelbert, who has catapulted the 127-year-old company and its traditions into a new era in no time at all. An interview about her vision of a dazzling, sparkling world of crystal.

Interview: cheryll mühlen

Fashionistas will know Giovanna Engelbert, formerly Battaglia, as a streetstyle icon. The fashion world was quick to fall in love with the Italian fashion editor and stylist, who always sat in the front rows at all the important shows, dressed impeccably and attracting more attention than the collections. Perhaps that’s what makes her and her creative work so appealing: the fact that she has transformed herself from a celebrated streetstyle star into the creative director of a billion-dollar family-run company like Swarovski. An unusual career path to say the least, but one that suits Giovanna Engelbert down to the ground. Since 2020 she has been responsible for the creative direction of the company and is exceeding all expectations. While Swarovski has always oscillated between elegance and kitsch, Giovanna Engelbert is simply replacing the kitsch elements with maximum opulence. Elegant restraint? Not here! And it’s precisely this unexpected disruption that is doing the traditional company a world of good – also in terms of appealing to a new target group in the future. New celebrity fans have been brought on board to help with the image change: singer Harry Styles, singer/songwriter Olivia Rodrigo, designer Amina Muaddi, model Lourdes Leon, influencer Veronika Heilbrunner, actresses Gemma Chan and Julia Garner, as well as rapper Cardi B have recently started wearing Swarovski

1/2022

and are transporting Giovanna Engelbert’s new message out into the big, wide world.

Congratulations on the new flagship store – it’s a true feast for the eyes! What inspired you to come up with this extraordinary concept?

Thank you! It’s a bit like Alice in Wonderland has landed in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory with a big splash of Pop Art for good measure, isn’t it? Everyone is desperate for something to look forward to, a glimpse of optimism, energy and light after the challenging past months. I wanted to create a store where people get a feeling of wonder and magic, that brings joy and surprise through its design. The store is designed to reflect the brand’s upcoming campaign and new visual identity – part of Swarovski’s ‘crystal lifestyle’. Buying jewellery is a moment of joy and exploration and we wanted to make sure that the new store experience was in line with this vision: a Wonderlab for all the senses that can ignite dreams.

You bring an edgy new touch to the Swarovski world with your vision. It can’t have been an easy task to make such bold moves – although Swarovski has always aimed for boldness.

Why or where did you see a need for change?

Swarovski is a company with such a rich history and an enormous wealth of experience and craftsmanship. The company is not lacking anything, we are just rewriting the story and bringing in new energy. It sounds very ambitious but, fundamentally, it was a return to the basics – to crystal as a material. Looking at Daniel Swarovski’s first drawings was an absolute inspiration. Discovering the magic of his early inventions and understanding the power of his dream is what drives me and is the path we will follow to bring Swarovski forward in future.

My intention is to create collection pieces that are bold but can be worn effortlessly.

We have already seen what your mind is capable of, but how much of your vision has already been turned into a reality?

There is much more to come, I can tell you that much! But it’s amazing to see what we’ve already brought to life when you consider that we started our journey in the middle of a pandemic. It was

indeed an incredible challenge, but we made it happen!

We hope the new store in Zurich will be followed by many more. When can we expect the next one to open? And can you tell us where it will be?

The next flagship store opened in Shanghai in December. The concept will be the same, though every store will reflect the character of the city it is located in and tailored to fit the environment.

During the dinner at the opening celebration for the new Zurich store, you said that you wanted Swarovski to be a catalyst for creativity. A brand where you can express yourself without any limitations. How will this be reflected in the collections?

There is a quote I love from Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent that says, “Accessories are what, in my opinion, pull the whole look together and make it unique.” I love the idea that one piece of jewellery can change an entire look. My intention is to create collection pieces that are bold but can be worn in an effortless way. Jewellery for a playful extravagance, one that doesn’t feel forced, but is expressive and original. swarovski.com

5 – 7 | 3 | 2022 OFFENBACH

s e i it n u t por

I

op e it n i f n

AT THE LEADING FAIR FOR LEATHER GOODS, BAGS AND ACCESSORIES.

GET YOUR TICKET NOW WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE/TICKET

EDITION #155

#ILMOFFENBACH WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE