J'N'C News 2/2021

J’N’C News – Your insider source for the latest in fashion – Since 1991 – Issue 2/21 – Friday, 25 June 2021

2/ 21 NEWS & VIEWS BRANDS DESIGNERS FASHION OPINIONS

News

BRAINS BEHIND THE BRANDS

MARISA SELFa / CEO of north sails apparel

Guardians of the ocean Marisa Selfa is the definition of a ‘doer’. As the CEO of North Sails Apparel for almost a year now, she is responsible for the company’s strategic focus.

And she’s wasting no time in achieving the goals she has set with her team because the planet needs our support now, not someday. In our interview, she reveals how she wants to make North Sails Apparel the guardian of the oceans. p. 18

Espadrij l´Originale

KnowledgeCotton Apparel

Bits & Pieces

Isko

BRIGHT PROSPECTS

ON A MISSION

KICK-OFF SS22

PIONEERS AT WORK

CEO Felix Staeudinger tells us how the brand coped during lockdown and what we can expect from Espadrij l’Originale in the future. p. 12

For the Danish brand, it’s not just about seasons and collections, but also about making the world a better place in the long term. p. 22

The new season is in the starting blocks and promises a post-pandemic lightness. A first look at the new collections. p. 6

With their ‘2022 Collection Vol. 1’, Isko set new sustainability standards in textile production. And they are now planning on ramping up their previous efforts even further with Vol. 2. An interview. p. 24

THE LIGHT JEANS CHINO alberto-pants.com CREATED IN MÖNCHENGLADBACH

ITALIAN SELVEDGE DENIM

REVOLUTIONAL GRAVEL BIKE PANTS

®

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Editorial

We can be heroes It seems as though we’ve reached a point where our industry is no longer just chasing the most progressive trends, the target groups with the most purchasing power or the best marketing strategies, but where we also want to – or rather have to – also save the planet a little bit in the process. After all, once you gradually become aware of your consumer behaviour, you’ll eventually find it hard to buy clothing without a guilty conscience. And once the guilty conscience creeps in, you’ll automatically feel the need to make things better. But at the end of the day, it’s also a learning curve and we have to want to do better in the first place. So on that note, welcome to a new issue of J’N’C News.

We were hoping to be able to to meet up again in person at Frankfurt Fashion Week in a couple of weeks, to exchange ideas face to face, greet each other with elbow-bumps or foot-shakes and perhaps hatch new plans to save the world – but COVID has got in the way of that once again. In the same way that nature, the environment and the health and happiness of humanity lie in our hands, the outcome of the pandemic is also the responsibility of each and every one of us. And when it comes to these bigger issues, ultimately every end consumer also wields a little power too.

Marisa Selfa, who we featured in this issue’s cover interview, is all too aware of this. She has been CEO of North Sails Apparel for the past year and is responsible for the present and future development of the Italy-based company. It only took her a couple of months to start implementing the changes she considered necessary. Marisa isn't keen on procrastinating and knows that long-term goals also need short-term action to become a reality. How does she pull it off? Read the full interview from page 18. More and more measures are also being taken when it comes to diversity.

The world of fashion is presenting itself as more multifaceted than ever before but, at the same time, many companies run the risk of making things worse than they already are. What do we mean by that? Find the answer on page 16 in our essay entitled ‘Check your privilege!’.

Micky Oye is living proof that other cultures can be enriching as well as inspiring: with its Hawaiian shirts, the Berlin label wants to bring the Aloha spirit to Germany and the rest of the world. So let’s hope our author Renée Diehl also brings you one step closer to paradise on page 10. It’s also paradisical at Espadrij l’Originale: in an interview on page 12, CEO Felix Staeudinger explains why, despite COVID, he is still optimistic that the coming year will bring success. The unusual concept behind Proper Mag is also proving extremely successful: fanzine meets agency meets clothing brand.

We spoke to its founder Mark Smith about the future of magazines and commerce, brand loyalty and post-pandemic conditions. Read more on page 25.

But let’s get back to the heroes of our industry: KnowledgeCotton Apparel is a ‘brand on a mission’. On page 22, our editor Cynthia Blasberg is telling us what that will look like in spring/summer 2022. Renowned denim manufacturer Isko, one of the industry’s pioneers and icons, is inviting everyone to do better by setting

the best example themselves – more on that in our interview with Baris Ozden on page 24. In this issue we are also bringing you the latest news on the tradeshows (page 27), because regardless of whether they are taking place digitally or physically, the next season is already in the starting blocks. And Mark Batista has even come up with something special for all those who can’t make it to his upcoming Welcome Edition Showroom due to travel restrictions (page 26). Marvin Dein, Footwear Manager at Kith, has ‘The Last Word’ in this issue. What will the future of retail look like and what does air conditioning have to do with that? Turn to page 30 to find out.

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I hope that this issue inspires you. Let’s try to make the world a little better by looking out for each other more.

Stay healthy and enjoy the summer!

and the J’N’C News team

CREDITS

Editors Janine Aggen (ja) Cynthia Blasberg (cb) Renée Diehl (rd) Franka Schmid (fs) Aylin Yavuz (ay)

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Nikola Köster Kathrin Wimber

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Paula Hedley Galina Green (trendtranslations.de)

Cheryll Mühlen

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Nikola Köster

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BITS & PIECES

CLUB OF GENTS

MAKING WAVES For spring/summer 2022, Club of Gents is making us dream of surfing, drinks and friends by conveying an incredible zest for life and unadulterated freedom. Their new collection is perfect for a carefree summer’s day by the sea with plenty of fun in the sun. Dominating the colour palette are natural and olive tones, as well as greys and blues. To ensure a summery, fresh feel, the pieces are made from lightweight materials such as stretch cotton or sustainable linen, produced in Normandy and woven in Ireland. An array of striped shirts and a cheerful Hawaiian shirt with surfboard print form the key looks of the collection and convey the typical Club of Gents vibe. All in the style of the 80s and early 90s Brit pop culture in London, as we’ve come to expect from the brand! /ja

LIEBESKIND BERLIN

INSIDE OUT With its ‘Inside Out’ collection theme, Liebeskind Berlin is inviting us on a journey from the inside out and conveying a simple message in spring/summer 2022: after a period of standstill, the time has now come to rediscover our surroundings, reassess our values and turn the inside out, at least metaphorically speaking – both mentally as well as physically. Liebeskind Berlin is expressing this newfound freedom in a vibrant, colourful collection that experiments with details and contrasts. Trend colours pink, green and lilac meet classics like cognac, olive and camel, while soft lambskin with modern jersey bonding on the inside and smooth cow leather with a jellybean effect and wax-like crocodile and lizard textures round off the collection. /ja liebeskind-berlin.com

VALLILA

UNISEX RAINWEAR COLLECTION

cg.fashion

ASKET

WOMENSWEAR LAUNCH For the past six years, Swedish brand Asket has been breaking fashion conventions – but, until now, only with menswear. In June, they finally launched their first ever womenswear collection, which is starting out with six items to begin with: T-shirts and shirts made of 100 percent organic cotton along with knitwear made of recycled post-consumer wool and jeans, which are available in 50 (!) different fits and size combinations. The new womenswear line is based on the same principle as the menswear: here too, they have chosen to forgo seasonal collections, which, as they say themselves, “only fuel fast-consumption habits”. Instead they are aspiring to the step-by-step creation of a single permanent collection of zero-compromise garments. Full transparency and full responsibility – from the fibres to the end of the lifecycle.

The first drop will be around mid-August, followed by the knitwear in October. Every new garment is released as a beta version with a limited stock availability of 300, enabling the brand to collect feedback from its first customers, before ramping up to full availability at the beginning of 2022. /ja asket.com

CAMEL ACTIVE

MAKE AN ACTIVE CHANGE Raincoats are no longer just practical everyday companions, but also riding high in the fashion stakes, which explains why you can find them in the collections of almost all the major fashion houses right now. Rolf Ekroth from Finland and Wataru Tominaga from Japan have created their own take on this with a unisex raincoat collection developed for Finnish textile company Vallila. The two internationally renowned designers each created two prints for the collection and several rain jackets that are perfect for commuting by bike, exploring nature, gardening or relaxing. As well as a running jacket and a classic raincoat, the collection also includes a waterproof parka, scarves and bags. The pieces have been available internationally since 1 June in the brand’s own online shop. /ja

Although changing and adapting are meanwhile part and parcel of our everyday lives, they’ve been inherent to the Camel Active identity for a long time now. With the new spring/summer 2022 collection, the label is focusing on its spirit of adventure and still making changes and evolving. Following its ‘Make an active change’ motto, Camel Active is finding answers by treating resources with respect, pursuing longevity, establishing eco-friendly production processes and using sustainable materials. While comfortable, lightweight sweats in strong colours and prints are dominating the ladies’ collection, overshirts are becoming a casual replacement for blazers in the men’s collection.

Packable, lightweight concepts and customisation options result in practical looks and ensure function and comfort. /ja

vallila.fi

camelactive.com

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BITS & PIECES

L’IMPERMEABILE X ROMANO RIDOLFI

WINDSOR

STYLE OVER FASHION

A NEW OPTIMISM

The trench coat is the ultimate must-have in every stylish wardrobe. But – as the name suggests – it actually originated in the trenches of the First World War, managing to effortlessly make the leap from functional uniform to classic fashion item.

A true classic that Italian label L’Impermeabile has been constantly reinventing since it was founded in 1948. In their pursuit of original garments that each tell a different story, they are collaborating with designer Romano Ridolfi, who also hails from Italy. He has designed a capsule collection for the brand, which feels something like a melting pot: dinner jacket meets denim military pants and 50s and 60s references blend harmoniously together. The result: a retro-style look that references the past but is still modern enough to appeal to the fashion crowd. /ja limpermeabile.it

SAUCONY

40 YEARS OF SAUCONY Saucony’s iconic ‘Jazz’ sneaker is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. And that’s definitely worth celebrating – with a little birthday bash in the form of the Originals collection.

Even after its launch back in the year 1981, ‘Jazz’ fulfilled the highest technological standards of a running shoe. Under the management of Dr Frank Santopietro from Boston, athletes, doctors and podiatrists joined forces to improve the shoe’s performance. The key to its success was its minimal weight.

The Maxitrac triangular lug outsole, ‘Butterfly Balance’ design and a special sock insert for a more ergonomic fit rounded off the ‘Jazz’ perfectly and the shoe is still the cornerstone of the Originals collection to this day. As a birthday homage, Saucony has launched two models: the ‘Jazz 81’ and the ‘Jazz Court’. Happy birthday! /ja

As we enter a new phase, Windsor is taking a moment to reflect and focusing on the positive side of life. For inspiration, the design team is looking to Copenhagen and the carefree Nordic attitude to life, merging desirability with pragmatism and creating effortlessly looking designs. The new spring/ summer 2022 season is therefore showcasing timeless looks that combine Nordic elements and modern tailoring with cool sportswear. In line with the optimistic Windsor ethos, we can expect a fresh colour palette, voluminous cuts and monochrome looks. Cool, clean and refreshing – there’s a lot to look forward to at Windsor this coming season! /ja windsor.de

saucony.com

MARC O’POLO DENIM

THE URBAN CAMPER

CLOSED

SELFREFLECTION

How are we reacting to these unprecedented times and a world in flux? This is the question that Marc O’Polo is asking for the spring/summer 2022 season. And its response exudes an air of calmness and composure, also when it comes to the denim line. A new logo, a modern and clear design and relaxed fits define the look of the collection, allowing the wearer to easily switch between city and country, home and office.

And there is no sign of any unnecessary extras. Modern minimalism is setting the tone, enhanced by functional details.

The words utility and ready-to-wear spring to mind here. ‘The Urban Camper’ collection scores points for its perfect basics and stand-out highlights, without making any sacrifices as far as the fashion factor is concerned. White, beige and cream tones form the basis, with olive, light blue and black complementing the very reduced colour palette. /ja

Wellbeing is currently something we are all aspiring to right now and it often comes with a certain degree of self-reflection.

And so with ‘Time for Reflection’, Closed is focusing on the things that we all have in common: nature, community, solidarity, heritage and craftsmanship. All of which are central values to the Closed philosophy. For the women’s collection, the label is exploring the colours and textures of nature and drawing inspiration from gemstones and minerals. With their muted and neutral to bright colours, they are not only gorgeous to look at, but apparently also have healing properties. And considering the way they have been interpreted in the collections, the looks might just herald a healing process all on their own by tempting us back to more fashion-focused looks after the pandemic. And after a cosy, soft winter collection, the menswear collection is also venturing out of its familiar comfort zone: functionality, freedom of movement and high-end basics are setting the tone here.

A modern utility simplicity defines the look, which is created with soft tones, casual silhouette and subtle highlights. /ja

marc-o-polo.com

closed.com

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Brands Save the duck x Mackintosh / Alberto

Save The Duck x Mackintosh

Protect the planet In spring/summer 2022, we can look forward to a promising collaboration with Save The Duck and legendary British raincoat specialist Mackintosh. And the circular logo of their joint capsule collection sums up the style perfectly: the iconic blue duck is emblazoned on the Italian tricolour flag and underlined by the Mackintosh signature. The collection is defined by the British brand’s clear, classic silhouettes, but with fresh colourways in typical Save The Duck style. Inspired by British sports-team jerseys, the tops are available in horizontal white and green or white and blue stripes.

The reversible unisex puffer jackets are also striped on one side.

And the streamlined, sand-coloured hooded raincoat exudes the typical Mackintosh style and represents the traditional values that have shaped the brand since the early 19th century. Their signature rubberised coats, including the Oxford coat, are handmade in their

factory just outside Glasgow. Shared values, which are highly visible in the collection, are the connecting element of the two brands.

To highlight their ecological commitment, Save The Duck only ever uses recycled materials for its outer materials and filling. After all, the label is known for its refusal to use any animal products in its materials and was awarded Company of the Year in 2019 by PETA. And they were also the first Italian company to be B Corpcertified. That’s why Save The Duck can certainly see themselves doing more than just one capsule collection with Mackintosh. The perfect opportunity to convey common ideas – born out of a desire not only to change the range of products on the market, but to steer the fashion industry toward more integrity and social justice. /cb savetheduck.it

Alberto

Younger than ever!

The coming spring/summer 2022 collection represents an important milestone for the traditional German company: in 2022, Alberto Pants is celebrating its 100-year anniversary. “An emotional achievement,” says the company’s Managing Director Marco Lanowy. “But instead of bringing out an anniversary collection, we prefer to do what has been making our company successful for the past 100 years: giving our long tradition a new face by shaping the future with innovative products.” And so the SS22 collection is focusing on technical features – such as the high-tech iconic Hybrid Sports Pants or digital prints that test the boundaries of design but in a resource-efficient way, to the Red Selvedge produced on narrow weaving looms following the old Japanese tradition.

Alberto has always had its finger on the pulse in terms of fashion credentials and is also inspired by trends outside of the fashion realm: just as much attention is paid by the label to everyday life and social and societal movements as to colours, silhouettes and tailoring. Or as Lanowy himself aptly puts it: “We focus on the question of what purpose the trousers serve in everyday life.

Based on that, we develop the necessary innovations for the product with regard to the details and how it will be used.”

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A strategy that has proved successful for a whole century – even throughout a pandemic.

And the SS22 range is just as multifaceted as we expected: from the Hybrid Sport Pants that are breathable, temperature-regulating, fast-drying, dirt and water-repellent and also protect from UV rays, down to the lightweight, functional trousers from the Ultra Light Japan series, the New Bike Pants with cyclist-friendly properties such as the integrated anti-slip tape, elasticated waistband, high rise at the back and cleverly placed reflectors for long and short distances, or the Premium Business line offering a perfect textile fusion of casual and business in the form of smart jeans. And because the future isn’t just technical, but also sustainable, Alberto is also developing its offer of digital prints to guarantee both quality prints and ecological and economical production processes. Its organic denims made of recycled yarn are a birthday gift from Alberto to the environment. Also in the works for SS22 is the new ‘Loose-C’, a wide, high-cut five-pocket cropped model. Alberto is certainly looking good for its age! /cm alberto-pants.com

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Brands Micky Oye

“A’a i ka hula; waiho i ka hilahila i ka hale” — “Get up and dance and leave the shyness at home”

Founders of Micky Oye: Micha Held and Tilo Weber

Micky Oye

Aloha from Berlin Authentic Hawaiian shirts made in Germany: that was the idea Micha Held and Tilo Weber came up with while they were holidaying on an island in the Med together with their families. The brand’s aim is to bring the ‘Aloha spirit’ to Europe, or even better to spread it all over the world – complete with sustainable business practices and honest workmanship.

Text: Renée Diehl

Even though both the founders come from different career backgrounds – Tilo as an architect specialised in shopfitting and trade fair construction and Micha as a process engineer – what connects them both is their love of the beach. Establishing Micky Oye means “being one step closer to the Aloha spirit,” and that’s what they both want to provide for their customers. Naturally the inspiration comes from the island of Hawaii. Because if you share the Aloha spirit, according to Tilo and Micha, you are automatically a ‘child of the land’, no matter where you come from. “That’s fantastic and why it doesn’t matter what continent the shirt is made in, as long as it’s authentic and honest.”

Nevertheless, it’s still important to point out the origins of the Hawaiian shirt. That’s why there is a whole page on the Micky Oye website dedicated to the history of the ‘Aloha shirt’ as it’s known in Germany. It’s said that Japanese and Chinese immigrants brought the shirt over to the island in the 19th century. The first newspaper ad presenting the Hawaiian shirt as a fashion item dates back to 1935. Micha and Tilo’s reasoning for the journey back in time on their website: “Especially in the case of the Aloha shirt, it’s important to be aware of the roots and the story of its origin, otherwise the Hawaiian shirt will just end up being the most embarrassing item in your wardrobe. Ubiquitous, cheap and cheerful and not really taken seriously by anyone.”

So what exactly is it that makes the Hawaiian shirt so appealing?

Clearly the fun factor and its undeniable talent of bringing a smile

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to people’s faces. The message behind the brand is rooted in the Hawaiian saying: “A’a i ka hula; waiho i ka hilahila i ka hale”, which means something like “Get up and dance and leave the shyness at home”.

Sustainable and slow fashion It should also be highlighted that the Aloha spirit doesn’t just represent fun but is also inextricably linked to sustainable production: “All our shirts are sewn in a traditional textile factory just outside Berlin by a bunch of lovely ladies with a long background in the textile business. We use 100 percent viscose, which is made from renewable raw materials, and of course real coconut for the buttons. We are aiming for long-term quality and slow fashion and do our best to keep any transport journeys as short as possible.”

Viscose is an especially breathable material that also has a cooling effect on the skin in the summer. And the coconut-shell buttons give the shirts an authentic finishing touch, just like the original Hawaiian shirts.

Vintage-inspired reinterpretations There are plenty of shirt designs to choose from, including the ‘Micky Oye Favorite’ featuring a traditional vintage print of oldschool surfers, hula girls, swordfish and ukulele players and ‘His best friend Favorite’ with a print showing images of masks that are typical of several of the South Sea Island cultures including Hawaii, Rarotonga, New Zealand, Tahiti and the Easter Islands. But more common prints like white hibiscus on a red background, Hawaiian

sunsets or the ocean also make an appearance. The brand always tries to maintain a balance between authenticity and a modern style: “All our graphics are newly designed, but always authentic.

They could be considered as vintage-inspired reinterpretations of familiar scenes and patterns. To do this, we carefully select graphic artists and artists for each corresponding theme.”

What are their plans for the future of the brand? Not only do Micha and Tilo want their Aloha shirts to become “global musthaves” but also coveted collector’s items.” They are well aware that this is a tall order – difficult indeed, but not impossible. The trend towards a more casual dress code during the pandemic but also the years previous has played an important role for the positioning of the brand and it’s not unthinkable that the Hawaiian shirt might soon be a fixture in offices around the world. Trend forecasts show that the 70s, wild prints and bold looks are celebrating a comeback thanks to the previous doom and gloom of the COVID period. And there’s a sad but also relevant factor that could very much work in Micky Oye’s favour: because of climate change, summery items like the Hawaiian shirt are set to become increasingly popular.

Incidentally, the brand name derives from the Hawaiian expression ‘Miki’oi!’, which means well done or great job. How very fitting! mickyoye.com

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Brands Espadrij l´Originale

Espadrij l’Originale

The future is bright The whole Espadrij philosophy is dependent on the fact that people can leave their homes and holiday abroad. After all, the very core of their brand is a summer product: the classic espadrille. CEO Felix Staeudinger tells us how the brand coped during lockdown and what we can expect from them in the future.

Interview: Renée Diehl

Things gradually seem to be getting back to normal now, but how did Espadrij fare during the COVID-19 pandemic?

First and foremost, Espadrij is a summer brand and strongly represented in stationary retail. The lack of holidays and closed shops didn’t exactly bode well for the coming year in terms of sales. But during the pandemic we were relieved to see that our customers are very flexible about their shopping strategies and switched to online shopping simply because they love our collections.

Online retail versus stationary: do you feel that priorities have changed within the business?

We believe that a lot more customers turned to online shopping during the pandemic, even those who were somewhat sceptical about it before. Obviously, we can only talk about our own experiences and developments in the online sector and our observations may not apply to everyone. But we definitely noticed a greater openness to online shopping. It was particularly inspiring to see how our retailers, in part with our cooperation, found new creative ways to get the product out to the end customer. Such as advertising products from their stores with the help of influencers on Instagram, which proved to be an exciting synergy between online and offline!

Trend reports forecast that customers will be opting for colourful and comfortable styles in the months to come. What does that mean for Espadrij?

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Espadrij isn’t a brand that needs to follow every trend, but of course this trend plays to our strengths perfectly. With our French background, colourful and comfortable styles are simply part of our DNA. Whether in our current spring/summer collection, where we often pick up on vibrant pastel tones, or in the coming autumn/ winter collection, where we’ll be concentrating on cosy and stylish loungewear with Espadrij Maison.

Did you see any sustainability trends emerging during the pandemic?

Sustainability is a big word. And for customers in general – not only ours – it’s becoming increasingly important. We are seeing it on a smaller scale when customers call to thank us for doing away with unnecessary packaging and the fact that our boxes are made from unbleached cardboard. We try to take responsibility as a brand and look after our environment, which we manage quite well due to our European production sites that ensure short transportation distances. Thanks to our brand positioning but also out of conviction, we refrain from mass production, which represents an additional burden on our environment. This conscious consumption is one of the strongest ‘trends’ in the pandemic and will continue to influence consumer behaviour in the future.

What are Espadrij’s plans for the home and loungewear collection?

The coming Espadrij Maison collection will include a number of new models with high-quality materials like leather and lambskin

for both women and men. But we’re also increasing our number of vegan styles so we can offer slippers to suit every taste. And we are adding to our loungewear offer and adapting it to the biggest trend of the moment: sets in matching colours.

Which footwear styles will you be pushing for your spring/ summer 2022 collection?

We are really looking forward to our spring/summer 2022 collection because it will be our biggest and brightest collection to date! We’ve been really multifaceted with the styles and have covered all kinds of needs. For women, we have everything from sleek buckles to trendy square-toe and terry styles for the beach. The men’s collection for SS22 will also be given a complete overhaul with the addition of new models. It will include elegant loafers, sporty sneakers with Velcro fasteners as well as the good old pool slides for especially casual looks.

And finally, what are Espadrij’s plans for the post-COVID world? What are your goals for 2022/2023?

We don’t have any post-COVID plans as such. But as soon as it’s an option, we are really looking forward to getting back out there, launching exciting projects and events (beyond video calls) and seeing our customers in person again. Who knows what the next few months will bring? Our brand is very versatile so don’t be surprised if you see a pop-up store from us somewhere at some point!

Keep your eyes peeled! espadrij.com

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LABELS TO WATCH pal sporting goods / beautiful STRUGGLES / bimba y lola

Beautiful Struggles

For sports buddies

Europe meets New York

Family and quality – these are the two guiding principles behind sportswear brand PAL Sporting Goods (which is short for Palmer and Lola Sporting Goods). So the label, which was founded by Penny Jane Ros-Rahimzadeh and her husband Poyan Rahimzadeh, doesn’t just offer sportswear for the whole family, but is also run by a family. And Poyan Rahimzadeh also happens to be the brains behind streetwear brand Dear Vanessa, so he’s certainly no stranger to building up successful brands. Incidentally, the name PAL is not only an abbreviation, but also a reference to the word ‘pal’, i.e. friend. Although the brand’s collections are perfect for sporting activities, they can also be combined as part of a modern athleisure look. Most of PAL’s high-quality pieces are made from regenerated yarn. A lightweight fabric weighing 290 grams is used for the brand’s T-shirts, while the hoodies are made with a fabric weighing in at 550 grams. This makes the clothing by PAL Sporting Goods the ideal option for both summer and winter sports. The look is inspired by classic American sportswear – just think eye-catching prints and oversized cuts. /rd

Founded in 2019, the German streetwear brand has meanwhile released three drops. Beautiful Struggles is the brainchild of football player Danny Williams, who was raised by an American father from New York and a German mother, two worlds that come together in his passion project.

The label merges the German quality and eye for detail with NY street style and European tradition with American culture. And in the same way that Danny Williams combines two worlds in his brand, the label’s name is also based on opposites. It’s all about changing your perspective, even when times are hard, based on the belief that “there is beauty in every struggle”. For the brand’s most recent drop, the focus was on the development of new unisex styles, which saw timeless pieces being combined with sporty, modern highlights. The inspiration comes from South Africa’s capital Cape Town, where urbanity and nature blend together like nowhere else. An integral part of Beautiful Struggles’ brand identity is the quality – the focus is on premium fabrics and exclusive tailoring. /rd

Established in Spain in 2005, Bimba Y Lola is now setting up shop(s) in Berlin – not one, not two, but three! On 27 May, the label opened one store in Berlin-Mitte and two at Galeries Lafayette.

These new store openings coincided with the launch of the contemporary Spanish brand in Germany, which was accompanied by a colourful campaign video for which the label joined forces with two Berlin artists: model, content creator and make-up artist Kicki Yang Zhang and music producer Stickle. The advertising film portrays aspiring talents from the most diverse sectors of the creative industry, including DJ Moneyama, tattooist Kieu My and writer Caroline Bushra von der Goltz. But even though Berlin is at the focus of the Germany rollout, the brand never forgets its roots: the artistic make-up looks for the campaign faces reflect Bimba Y Lola’s typically Spanish and carefree style. Some of the looks were also photographed for a limited T-shirt line. Other product highlights by the brand include vibrantly coloured bags with striking buckles, expressive pieces of jewellery and bright, floaty dresses. /rd

palsportinggoods.com

beautiful-struggles.com

bimbaylola.com

PAL Sporting Goods

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Bimba Y Lola

New to the city

We design and develop for a new tomorrow.

Determined to be one of the game changers – we take action by sustainable innovation.

K N O W L E D G E C O T T O N A P PA R E L . C O M

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Photo: iStock

Essay DIVERSITY & INCLUSION

Check your privilege!

When it comes to hotly discussed topics like diversity and inclusion, there are usually two distinct groups with hugely different interests: those who are affected and those who aren’t. And I’m most likely speaking to two different groups of readers with this article – even though it’s a matter that concerns us all.

Text: Cheryll Mühlen

Let’s get one thing out of the way first: there are people who, due to sheer ignorance, are annoyed by the whole issue of diversity. It bothers them that they’re suddenly supposed to make sure everything they say and do is ‘politically correct’ when, in their eyes, they don’t see anything wrong with the system because it’s working fine for them. Some just think that the idea of diversity is way over the top, while others don’t care either way. But that’s exactly what it all comes down to at the end of the day. Diversity is like sustainability. You have to understand the context and history, i.e. acquire the knowledge, and put your ego to one side to be able to see where social injustices are happening and to recognise the potential of diverse, inclusive societies and breaking down barriers.

As a German-Filipina myself, I hold two nationalities in my heart, so the current confrontation with diversity and inclusion can, in my opinion, only be a promising development. Nevertheless – like a lot of things in our industry – it runs the risk of being treated as a mere trend. So why is it so important for us to understand and embrace diversity?

The expectations on companies, especially fashion brands, are high and external pressure is increasing all the time. If you don’t get on board, you could soon get left behind. And our collective social awareness of systematic racism has been heightened to such an extent by a number of tragic events, particularly recently in the USA, so the lessons we have learned need to be turned into action now – also in the fashion world. After all, ‘representation matters’ and there is no other industry where outward appearance and representation count more than in the world of fashion. The most obvious example: models. Several fashion labels seem to be effortlessly mastering the art of authentic diversity, while others are just paying it lip service, adding a ‘diverse’ model to their look books and campaigns every now and again and then thinking that their work is done. It’s like they have a checklist that they’re working their way through: black model? Check. Asian model? Check.

Curvy model? Check. Homosexual couple? Check. And some are even going so far as to tick ‘model wearing a hijab’ off their list.

But is that really enough to bring about the necessary changes?

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Power-sharing and privilege No, because a progressive society can see through this kind of superficial behaviour. If an Instagram feed still feels ‘whitewashed’, then the internal structure has become stuck in the old way of thinking – new campaign or not. Some people might (subconsciously) take offence at this, but although confronting the reality of decades or even centuries of structural racism, is painful, we need to face up to it if we want to do better. And in the year 2021 we should definitely want to do better. Many ways of thinking and the resulting actions associated with structural racism and involuntary prejudice are learned over time. Even if there were no malicious intention behind an action, a statement or a word, for certain groups of people it can still end up coming across as precisely that: negative, hurtful and exclusionary. Marginalised groups, people of colour or people with physical impairments have had certain experiences that many others can’t even begin to imagine, simply because they have never experienced anything like that themselves. So, if for example, you think that there is no such thing as racism, it’s because you’ve probably never experienced it yourself (lucky you!). But just because you’ve never experienced something, it doesn’t mean it’s not happening. Incidentally, the word for that is ‘privilege’ – not perceiving something as being problematic because it’s not a problem for you personally.

Diversity in the workplace Perhaps the problem for a lot of companies is actually understanding the situation, which is why many of them are now trying to introduce an inclusive and diverse staffing policy. The ‘Business of Fashion’ article entitled ‘How to Hire a Chief Diversity Officer’ by Sheena Butler-Young addresses the fact that, although the fashion industry is making an effort to hire diversity leaders, companies need to make sure they’re not actually doing more harm than good. “[…] there’s a lack of understanding of the emotional burden and toll that it takes on people of colour to put themselves out there and to be vulnerable,” explains Martha Garcia, former Senior Communications Executive at Hoka One One with regard to the frank and sometimes uncomfortable conversations that need to be held if you

want to make real structural changes internally. She left the company in January of this year and is now managing her own marketing agency, which specialises in supporting brands with the wording of inclusive messages. Theresa Watts, Vice President of Human Resources at True Religion, spent the first few months in her position “preparing the company for diversity”, which also involved having a lot of uncomfortable conversations. “I think a lot of times organisations want to start big, and they want to get out in the media and say ‘we have this diversity person, we have this new resource and we have this new DEI (State of Diversity, Equity and Inclusivity (DEI) in Fashion) department’,” she explains, adding: “But you can start very small with changing the culture in your organisation.”

So a company needs to first understand the culture, the philosophy, from within and, in an ideal world, also live and breathe it itself.

From this attitude, inclusion and diversity will follow on naturally.

But using the efforts to improve society as a mere marketing tool will only contribute to complicating and stigmatising the topic further.

There is a lot of responsibility associated with tackling this subject head on. And if you are not fully aware of this responsibility, then you will end up causing, as already mentioned above, more harm than good. In the ‘Zeit Online’ article ‘Germany’s Next Topmodel – The hype surrounding diversity’, the German model casting show doesn’t come off very well at all: “The hype surrounding diversity is not the solution. It’s often part of the problem,” writes Ellen Kollender.

“In this diversity discourse, there is a lack of sensitivity for the fact that portraying people as ‘different’ is not necessarily something that they are going to be okay with. The way they portray themselves may also have arisen from the necessity to develop strategies for dealing with their exclusion in a racist, sexist, homophobic society” and is therefore exactly the opposite of what diversity actually stands for: breaking down one-dimensional stereotypes.

And if that isn’t reason enough to embrace diversity, then a study by the Boston Consulting Group from the year 2018 shows that increasing the diversity of leadership teams also improves a company’s financial performance. So even if you’re less interested in the common good of society and more in economic success: diversity still matters!

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Credit: Nabla & Zibe

Brains behind the Brands marisa Selfa, CEO of north sails apparel

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Photo: North Salis

Brains behind the Brands marisa Selfa, CEO of north sails apparel

GUARDIANS OF THE OCEAN It all started in 1957, when Lowell North, an engineer, decided to concentrate on sailing rather than aerospace engineering. It was out of his passion for the ocean that the American sailor and Olympic medallist founded his apparel brand North Sails. His mantra: “You make history by looking ahead.” The new CEO of North Sails Apparel Marisa Selfa is now carrying this ethos into the fashion industry.

Interview: Cheryll mühlen

“Researchers estimate that there are 51 trillion particles of micro plastics floating in surface water worldwide. That’s five hundred times higher than the number of stars in the galaxy,” Marisa Selfa explains to us in a Zoom call. She has been the CEO of North Sails Apparel for almost a year now and is responsible for the company’s strategic focus: always do your best, make the right decisions and dare to be different now and again – all in the interests of the oceans and sustainability.

The company is only just setting off on its ambitious journey, but the goal is clear in Marisa Selfa’s mind. She is not a fan of far-reaching, long-term ideals that take decades to put into practice, instead preferring fast results because, as she knows only too well, the influence we humans have on the planet is huge and could well be make or break. In an interview, she tells us about how she wants to use this influence in a positive way, what kind of a direction she is steering North Sails in and why profit margins should take a back seat when it comes to the environment.

You’ve been CEO of North Sails Apparel for almost a year now – a tumultuous time to take the helm. How have you experienced your first year as CEO and what are your goals?

I was really excited to join the brand because I’m a big ocean lover. Their commitment to protecting the ocean is just such a great aspect of the job

for me. The team was very supportive, patient and committed.

To answer the second part of your question, I have three main goals. Number one: the digitalisation of the organisation. The second one is to make the company more global, because when I joined, 50 percent of the business was still based in Italy. And the third one is sustainability. Luckily, the team has been really open to speeding things up in those areas. And, you know, I feel that we’ve moved a lot in the last nine to ten months and made the most of some of the opportunities, although it has been very intense. But I’m an optimist and I believe we have been able to identify opportunities and focus on the areas that could really help us move on.

Fashion without sustainability is irresponsibility.

You come from a sustainable background after previously having worked at Ecoalf.

What experience did you take away from that time and what have you learned so far at North Sails?

Actually, my sustainability journey started a long time ago when very few people were talking about it. I worked for Timberland in a global

position back in 2006. And at that time, we were already talking about organic cotton when there were almost no suppliers offering what we really wanted. So that’s when my schooling started, and I was learning something new every day.

I think we all have to be educated in this new area. The more I know about it, the more committed I am. And I am a true believer that fashion without sustainability is irresponsibility. This is the only reason why I’m still investing my time.

When I came to North Sails, I realised that there was already a huge awareness of what was needed. The main thing we needed to do was develop a lot of new fabrics. And with some of the suppliers, we had to see if they were able to move to the next level. So there has been a lot of work related to the collection itself, but we’ve also made some huge improvements in the last two collections. So, for example, 35 percent of the SS21 collection had either organic or recycled materials. The upcoming AW21 collection is going to be 85 percent sustainable. And by SS22 it will even be 95 percent. That’s the right direction for us. But as far as the lessons we’ve learnt are concerned: we know now that the end consumer is really demanding and asking brands to be much better. And let me be honest with you, we are not perfect, far from it in fact. But as I keep telling the team, the only thing that matters is that we’ve done a bit better and that everybody is trying to get better – each season.

I can imagine that change itself is not so easy for many brands, especially when it comes to the way they do business…

Actually it’s been easy because the right team mentality was already there. They were trying to improve even before my arrival. So, it was more about making some really tough decisions as a business. You have to be brave and invest in a sustainable product rather than prioritising a bigger margin. So yes, sometimes it’s more expensive or less efficient at the beginning. But I do believe sustainability is more efficient and more profitable in the long term. We have to make sure to set the right prices and that our clothes and pricing stay accessible for our consumers. I don’t want North Sails to become an expensive brand just because we want to be sustainable. That’s the challenge. You have to be sustainable in your core business. That’s how we will be able to change what is happening in the world.

Being brave certainly plays an important role in change and I think that making such a bold move and learning that it’s never too late are part of the whole transformation too.

It’s so important to recognise that no one is the ultimate expert, managers included. We all have to learn.

In May you announced that you had signed The Fashion Pact. Congratulations! All of the

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Brains behind the Brands marisa Selfa, CEO of north sails apparel

There are a lot of discussions about how the fashion industry has changed due to the pandemic. What have you observed in the past year? And what makes you hopeful and optimistic?

People are more aware of how sick the world is, and not only because of the pandemic but we also realised how vulnerable we are. People are talking more and more about consumption and they still want to look good, but with brands that have the right aims and values. So they’re getting very demanding about that and I think that’s fantastic because if the consumers are pushing all of us, then it’s just going to force us to get better and better. I love that.

What are you observing with scepticism?

A couple of things actually. The world still needs to be educated on the impact that we all have.

A lot of people still love fast fashion and still think it’s great to buy a T-shirt for five euros, not knowing the impact of not only its water consumption, but also the fact that somebody in a faraway country is earning very little money to make it. Sustainability isn’t just about water consumption and recycled materials, but also about people’s lives. Unfortunately, I believe that the human race has a very short memory when it comes to history. We make a mistake and say never again, but then we end up doing it all over again anyway. So I really want to believe that we’ve learned something this time. That’s the only aspect I’m not so sure about.

Your company claim ‘Go Beyond’ also applies in terms of sustainability. You mentioned before that North Sails is still at the beginning of this journey but what were the most important measures you have taken to make the necessary changes so far?

When I arrived, the company had already introduced plastic-free packaging, for example. And as I said before, we made huge improvements to the collections, but we were definitely very committed to the social code of conduct. We’ve done a full review and audit on the factories that

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were there. And we’ve been working with the ‘Fashionscapes: A Living Wage – Eco Age’ documentary, which is also a way for consumers to learn that sustainability is also about people. We transport only by ship wherever possible and we keep some of our commitments with really strong organisations and NGOs like the Ocean Family Foundation, which we’ve been collaborating with for years. We are also involved in the 30x30 project, an initiative that aims to transform 30 percent of the Italian sea into marine protected areas by 2030. So, on World Oceans Day, we’re going to do some amazing murals and make consumers aware that we need to protect the Mediterranean Sea. But there’s more coming up: every month we’re announcing a new ambassador for our ‘Go Beyond’ campaign, who basically tell their story of what ‘going beyond’ means for them. Last Christmas we also launched a campaign called ‘Adopt A Coral’, where we are planting corals in French Polynesia.

The right direction has to come from the management.

You just mentioned education and knowledge – both of which play a crucial role when it comes to sustainable change – also by the end consumer, who is the one with the decisive leverage. How can you support this as a brand? Or how much impact can a brand actually have?

The current SS22 collection is casual, cool and now even more environmentally responsible.

The truth is: North Sails will be a mere drop in the ocean because there are so many levels to what is going on in the industry. And of course our industry has a huge responsibility, but other processes and factories within our industry do too. There are the ones that are clearly committed and implement a plan, but then you have brands that say the right thing but aren’t yet doing the right thing because they are still avoiding making some tough decisions. And then there are labels with a completely different business model who are willing to take the much safer road for whatever reason. So, maybe it’s tough to say this, but I think in a company, the right direction has to come from the management because if they aren’t committed, then you can’t really execute anything. It takes a bit of time and it’s a real commitment – and can even be painful sometimes.

And, as part of that commitment, it is very important that the whole organisation believes in it. The teams need to be guarding this commitment in

Credit: Nabla & Zibe

approx. 60 brands that have joined share the same goal: to put an end to climate change.

What will North Sail’s contribution be and what comes with The Fashion Pact membership?

We’re incredibly proud to be part of this amazing group. We’re currently working on our own sustainability plan, which I want to implement in the next three years instead of over the next 30 years. I don’t like these kinds of statements: “By 2050, we will…” No, 2050 is too far away. The Fashion Pact is completely committed to three goals: stopping global warming, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans. And protecting the ocean is exactly what we’re focused on. We want to provide support in any way we can in the areas that we have the most awareness and expertise: i.e., in the protection of the oceans.

every single decision – from what sandwich we buy, where we get our coffee cups to decisions like store locations or the materials we use.

Which brings us back to knowledge as a basic prerequisite.

Sure – especially in the stores, since there’s currently not enough sustainability training. But sales assistants need to understand what the impact of a cotton T-shirt is or how much water is used so they can pass it on to the consumers. As I said, we are just a drop in the ocean, because we are one brand among many thousands in the world and we’re only one industry. However, having said that, I think some brands will keep improving because the consumers are pushing for it. And of course there’s also the political side: some things have to be legislated because if we don’t start implementing rules and fines and legal action, then some companies will take a lot longer to do what’s right for the planet. So I think we need some serious legislations that push companies to move faster than we are at the moment.

Let’s jump from the here and now to the near future – not too far though, just the way you like it. Where do you see North Sails?

I would love for us to be seen as a brand that is grounded in a sustainable lifestyle – even for people who don’t sail or may not have a boat, who may live in the city but love the ocean. If you’re committed to the planet, then the ocean is a big part of it.

I want the legacy of the brand to be one that really cares and is truly committed to our planet and for people to see that we’re doing our best to make an impact. Of course, in the end we want to be successful as a brand and we have to sell products but it would still make me happy if people were to visit our website to check out events because they believe in what we’re doing. For me, the most important thing is that the brand is aspirational and committed to a clear purpose. Like I said before: we want to be the guardians of the ocean. I want to make sure that we are the kind of brand that people look up to and hopefully they will want to join us one day. I would love to have the kind of people on board who are committed to what is happening right now. northsails.com webstore.northsails.com

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Brands KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL

Authentic and sustainable is how KnowledgeCotton Apparel defines its upcoming spring/ summer collection for 2022, which is interpreting minimalism as a mindset that stands for ‘fewer and better’.

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Brands Knowledgecotton Apparel

A brand on a mission Durability is part of KnowledgeCotton Apparel’s brand DNA. And combined with versatility, it’s also the focal point of the styles in its upcoming spring/summer 2022 collection. The collection pieces aim to look the part in all situations: whether at home, at work or during outdoor activities. But for the Danish brand, it’s not just about seasons and collections, but also about making the world a better place in the long term.

Interview: Cynthia Blasberg

Inspiration On a meta-level, KnowledgeCotton Apparel’s inspiration is its history, which dates back to the year 1969. Whether Woodstock, the moon landing or the Stonewall uprising – Mads Mørup, CEO and founder of the brand, is continually inspired by the vibe of the era in which the family-run company was established by his father in 1969 and which he launched as KnowledgeCotton Apparel in 2008. Mørup always feels like he is part of something bigger and in a position to contribute to lasting change.

Which is, of course, very apt for a time defined by transformation and upheaval – and not only since the COVID-19 pandemic hit. But, just like at the end of the 60s, we are currently experiencing a global movement; a new green community that is willing to change the world and create something new and better. This source of inspiration is what drives Mads Mørup and his team. He describes it as a decisive moment that is presenting us with difficult challenges and sees a profound need among many people to believe in a new tomorrow.

Mission The brand mission is clear: to offer consumers sustainable fashion collections and not make any compromises on style, comfort or quality. To accomplish this mission, KnowledgeCotton Apparel successfully launched its first denim collection on the market in autumn/winter 2019. Of course the denims are sustainable, made using GOTScertified cotton, 100 percent vegan and washed without chemicals. One of the biggest problems in conventional denim production is still the water consumption. But not in the case of KnowledgeCotton denim. Thanks to a special technology, zero (!) litres of water are used for the raw denims and 1.5 litres of water are used to make a pair of light blue jeans. Dyeing is carried out with a clean

dye process using eco-friendly liquid indigo. It uses 65 percent less water and the wastewater is always 100 percent processed and cleaned.

The females among you will be pleased to hear that the brand is finally launching a womenswear collection for the spring/summer 2021 season.

It’s actually surprising that it has taken them so long, considering the huge number of women who have been bridging the gap by wearing items from the men’s collection. Now the Danish fair fashion brand is offering a full range for men, women and kids. Mission accomplished, one could almost say, but the work is never really done if your aim is to improve the world of fashion.

coloured round-neck T-shirt with red stitching along the neckline and shoulders and the words “It’s time we start treating our planet as if we’re planning to stay!” printed on the back. A clear concept and message that aligns with Mads Mørup’s statement: “Determined to be one of the game changers, we take action to make a difference for our future generations – not tomorrow, but today.”

Resourceful collection Authentic and sustainable is how KnowledgeCotton Apparel defines its upcoming spring/ summer collection for 2022, which is interpreting minimalism as a mindset that stands for ‘fewer and better’. Overall, the collection conveys the reawakened enthusiasm for nature. Casual practicality is therefore at the centre of a sophisticated utilitarian style. This appears in the form of utilitystyle elements like functional fabrics, woven pockets and technical zippers paired with outdoor influences in the established streetwear look. But it wouldn’t have the name ‘Resourceful Collection’ if it didn’t also avoid waste and respect other aspects of resource conservation. Three new lines represent this attitude: ‘Reborn’, ‘Nuance by Nature’ and ‘Pathfinder’.

Chemical-free dyeing In the last few years, natural dyeing methods have not only established themselves as a trend among green fashion brands. ‘Nuance by Nature’ is the corresponding line by KnowledgeCotton Apparel. The dyes are 100 percent organic and derived from plants and herbs. Neon colours aren’t an option, but thanks to hibiscus tea, walnuts, black beans, black carrots, spinach and ground turmeric, the fashion pieces are anything but dull. The line includes T-shirts, sweaters, trousers and jackets for women and men. In terms of its colours, ‘Pathfinder’ counteracts the ‘Nuance by Nature’ line, standing out with clear, vibrant tones like sky blue and deep orange. Also at the fore here is the whole functional aspect because the materials need to perform and are made for outdoor activities. Waterproof, windproof and breathable, the ‘Pathfinder’ technology offers a high level of comfort and protection. No problem at all for the Danes, which have always seen themselevs as an urban outdoor brand with high multifunctional design standards.

Reborn The name says it all: the collection pieces from the ‘Reborn’ line are made from recycled and reused materials. Individual components are extracted with the utmost care to then be reborn in the new designs with the aim of establishing a circular system. Also part of the line is a natural-

Resourceful thinking KnowledgeCotton Apparel is definitely a brand with a mission – and possibly also on a mission.

Fashion is their daily business, obviously, but cooperations, initiatives and publications like their Brand Book, which was published in 2019, emphasise just how committed they are. Regard-

ing resources, Mads Mørup says: “To be successful, we need to re-evaluate our view of waste.

Many organisations and individuals show the way through creativity and innovation. Let’s take care of our waste and consider it an important resource in a circular system. Think again about what you throw away. Think resource, not waste.”

Mørup and his team provide facts and figures to draw awareness to the rapidly increasing use of resources and declare waste and therefore recycling as a seventh resource – in addition to water, air, oil, natural gas, coal and minerals.

Ultimately, the fair fashion brand also sees the circular economy as a long-term solution to the climate catastrophe.

Motivation Hardly any other resource is as versatile as water.

From the beauty of the ocean to a valuable habitat for plants and animals, it is an indispensable element of life for us as well. After constantly seeing people disrespect the oceans, surfer family ‘The Green Wave’ has made it its life’s mission to raise awareness of environmental matters. KnowledgeCotton Apparel has joined forces with them to create a capsule collection for SS22. And it comes as no surprise to hear that the special line is inspired by surf styles. Cooperations like these are a reliable motivational boost for the green fashionistas from Denmark because they are well aware of the human need for cool styles. Or as Mads Mørup says: “We have been in the textile industry since 1969 and have seen the inner workings of an industry that is responsible for making a huge impact on both the environment and on the well-being of people and animals. Our take on this is to make people aware. To inspire people to make responsible choices that will force the clothing industry to change.” knowledgecottonapparel.com

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Brains behind the Brands Baris Ozden, Product Development Manager at Isko

Never not innovating With their ‘2022 Collection Vol. 1’, Isko has set new sustainability standards in textile production. And now, with Vol. 2, the Turkish denim mill is planning on ramping up their previous efforts even further. We caught up with Baris Ozden, Product Development Manager at Isko, to find out more.

Interview: Aylin Yavuz

You only just released ‘2022 Collection Vol. 2’ in February – what’s new or different about Vol. 2?

Our ‘2022 Collection Vol. 2’ is the natural evolution of our Vol. 1 collection. We’ve continued to explore the four lifestyles introduced in Isko’s Vol. 1 collection – Denim Lovers, Simplify, Isko Comfy and Euphoria, building on a range of glorious colour options and technical features to inspire designers and brands and to suit myriad different vibes and moods. The stretch technology of our Jeggings is a great example, as it delivers the skinny-look aesthetic with an extra touch of comfort and is now available in a new, sustainable version that uses up to 50 percent recycled materials.

Brands are still very much referencing the 80s and 90s in their collections. We’re also seeing modern takes on workwear as a big inspiration for many designers. So, we’ve included plenty of options for them to turn their creative ideas into reality.

The pandemic, with its work-from-home situation, has shifted the trend away from denim and more towards loungewear. As a denim manufacturer, how have you dealt with this challenge?

The beauty of denim lies in its endless possibilities – spanning from classic, stiffer fits to more comfortable styles. Many of our innovations do provide comfort and freedom of movement, but they also maintain an authentic denim look, resulting in an ideal combination of garments that don’t compromise on fashion and work perfectly both out and about and at home.

With four different lifestyle themes, your range of fabrics, washes and fits is huge! What are the must-haves in ‘2022 Collection Vol. 2’?

Baris Ozden We created every concept in our collection by How do you think the pandemic has influenced the imagining how people live their lives, now and denim industry in the long run? Do you believe that in the future, and each of them responds to the needs of a spethe current demand for comfort, quality and sustainability is cific segment of the market. In line with Isko’s eco-friendly vision, here to stay? responsibly produced denim is the foundation of this collection, a Sustainability is not a trend; it’s a must. It is part of our daily lives true must-have, and also plays a big role in the market now that and consumers are demanding it. A couple of years ago, Greta consumers are becoming more and more conscious about the jourThunberg started her solo strike for climate change outside the ney of the garments they wear. In addition to that, I believe that the Swedish Parliament and, within a few months, she was invited to products and technologies included in our Denim Lovers and Simspeak at the UN Climate Change Conference. To me, this is a big plify lifestyles will have a wide appeal for many of our customers, sign that people are paying attention to this issue and will continue but we shouldn’t underestimate Isko Comfy, which we believe will to do so in the future. define the new sporty street trend.

Speaking of sustainability, your 2022 Collection is all about Speaking of trends, what are the denim trends you are seeing technological innovation and sustainable denim – which proand also featuring in Vol. 2? cess or innovation are you most proud of?

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Our R-Two technology is a huge achievement as it allows us to reduce raw material usage and our carbon footprint, in line with the commitments we have outlined in our Sustainability Impact Report.

Within this collection we have increased the use of recycled materials, while maintaining the durability, look and feel of the fabrics that our customers know and love.

You published the first Isko Sustainability Impact Report last June. Can we expect the second one soon and will we already be able to see the impact that has been made by the 2022 Collection innovations and processes?

Yes, we are currently working on a new Sustainability Impact Report, to provide updated information on what we are doing and our new achievements regarding the environment, such as being the only denim manufacturer in Europe with Bluesign-approved fabrics in our collection. The release is planned for 2022 and will include reporting on 2020 and 2021. ‘2022 Collection Vol. 2’ fully embodies all the results included in our first report and was developed according to the most rigorous standards and with the most advanced processes in order to be as responsible as possible. The R-Two technology was key to that: by dramatically increasing the percentage of reused and recycled materials, we instantly impact the environmental output. This is shown in our EPD calculations (Environmental Product Declarations, a verified Lifecycle Assessment framework), which show significant reductions in carbon and water impact. With this in mind, it’s also very important to take into account the performance of the fabrics in terms of durability, look and feel, as well as the overall principles of sustainability. By incorporating reused and recycled materials and our technology to ensure durability, we can achieve both. It’s an ongoing process: each new iteration enables us to take the levels of reused and recycled content further. iskodenim.com

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Credit: Ray Chan

Credit: Ray Chan

Brains behind the Brands Mark Smith, Proper mag MEDIA

Expertise united In 18 years, Proper Mag Media has evolved from an amateur enthusiast to a professional authority.

The journey from photocopied fanzine to agency can be seen in the latest issues of their magazine as well as in their numerous cooperations. In our interview, its founder Mark Smith predicts how magazines will change after the pandemic and explains how Proper is staying true to itself after all these years of development.

Interview: franka schmid

In addition to the magazine, the Proper universe also includes a creative agency and your own clothing brand. What is the concept behind it all?

The basic concept is the same as when we started out, about 18 years ago. It began as a way to pass the time, almost a hobby, with no expectation of it becoming a business. So of course this eventually led to us doing a wider range of things over time, including campaigns, photography, video, a podcast and a lot of work behind the scenes consulting with brands that trust us. We’re a little more strategic and considered these days, but we’re all genuinely passionate about the brands and cultures we work with and, as a result, that gives us the knowledge and authority that leads to brands wanting us to talk to them. Proper is unrecognisable compared to the photocopied fanzine we started out as, but the same core DNA remains.

What made you decide to go into retail with Proper?

The access to things like Big Cartel made it easy. Prior to that we would have had to use PayPal embed codes and it was all very clunky and basic. As I had time on my hands, I was able to play around with websites and web design as far back as the late 90s.

And the admin job that myself and co-founder Neil did at an IT company gave us access to a lot of training so we had an appreciation of how the internet would begin to influence our lives. At the time, our audience was via clothing forums, pre-Facebook and Instagram. When social media took off that helped us to gradually build a quality audience and it was just the next logical step to sell things to them. Five years ago, we entered into a partnership with people who have expertise in retail so that really helped us step things up.

Out of all the things you’ve done so far, what was the most challenging?

The big campaigns we’ve worked on that have involved larger budgets and overseas travel were challenging but in a positive way.

We hadn’t done that sort of thing before, but we knew we had the skills and have done several of them since. The big challenge for me has been accepting we are now an actual business and every day continues to be a lesson in that respect. The last year has been difficult, but Proper is still Proper and it’s fair to say we’ve adapted well, and the business is continuing to grow. I feel like we’ve done some of our best work this year, including a really wide range of concepts, which is testament to the team we have in place. We have come a long way but there’s still so much we want to achieve.

How will magazines and commerce change after the pandemic?

In the first month of lockdown in the UK, we actually benefitted from people being restricted. People working from home had more time on their hands and were probably saving the cost of commuting so they had a little extra disposable income. I think people got into the habit of scrolling through their phone and it led to decent sales on Hikerdelic. This put us on a good path throughout the pandemic. I think it’s clear that our government has made all sorts of errors over the past year but the one thing that helped us was the ability to furlough staff. That gave us some breathing space and enabled us to gradually return to work when it became safe to do so. We’re now pretty settled back in the office and all really keen to make our mark again.

Journalists are usually reluctant to get into sales. Do you think this combination of content production and sales is inevitable nowadays?

Good question. I think in many ways we are more suited to creating and selling products than anything else, but then our roots are in writing and print and we feel like we’re really good at those things too. I’ve personally been writing for 20 years and have

done so for almost every brand I love, so it would be wrong to ignore that history and the experience it gives us. I think the importance of content creation as a means to cut through the noise is bigger than ever. The best brands are the ones who can create good products but also good content. As people are more inclined to buy from a screen now, the marketing is key because that’s what people are buying into, arguably more so than the actual product.

I read Bobby Hundreds’ book recently and he talks about brands being almost like band merch now. When you buy a T-shirt it’s not so much because of its colour, shape, fit and quality, but mostly because it represents your loyalty to the brand that makes it. It’s an opportunity to show your values in the form of clothing, by wearing a brand that represents those values.

How do you plan on staying true to the Proper brand?

Every day we get around ten emails asking for coverage that simply isn’t a good fit for our company. We turn down money on a regular basis from SEO companies keen to pay for back links, but it would look pretty strange if we started posting stories entitled ‘7 ways to find the best mortgage’ etc. on our website. Again, that’s an extreme example, but it’s vital that we only work with people whose work we respect, otherwise our whole USP falls down.

That doesn’t mean we won’t work with people who don’t fit our demographic, it just means we have to be creative in making them relevant. If that’s not possible then it’s going to be a non-starter.

We have done work for brands that don’t fit the Proper audience profile, but we were still able to help them with content creation for their own audience. In the end, it’s about communicating things effectively and part of that is the subject matter. If you connect the right brand with the right people, then you’ve done your job, and I feel like that is something we are really good at. propermag.com

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Photo: Imaxtree

Brains behind the Brands mark Batista, founder of Welcome Edition Showroom & Brand Progression

The return of physical events Mark Batista’s Welcome Edition Showroom was, of course, not the only showroom that was directly affected by the pandemic. In-person events have been pretty much non-existent over the past few months. How did this affect the behaviour of buyers when they couldn’t feel the fabrics and view the collections up close? After being relegated to the online arena, the anticipation for the first physical event in summer 2021 is all the greater. We spoke to Mark Batista about the challenges of the new edition, future trends, participating brands and what he is most looking forward to personally.

Interview: franka schmid

Mark, what are your hopes and expectations as we approach the new season and the first physical event since the pandemic?

We’re starting the new season with the return of face-to-face meetings. These meetings with buyers represent a move in a positive direction.

Some brands are currently still facing quarantine regulations.

To what extent does this affect the process?

We have set up a sales service where we can supply a sales person to manage a brand for the week if travelling is not possible due to quarantine regulations.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of the physical edition compared to the digital one? And how was the response to the Welcome Edition Online Showroom?

First of all, virtual appointments proved to be a real saviour and necessary in order for us to continue doing business. But the fact that buyers still want to see a collection in the showroom, feel the fabrics and try the garments on is a massive factor. It worked very well considering there was no other option, but of course showroom appointments will be welcomed back.

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Can you already tell us anything about this season’s exhibitors?

Yes, we will have a number of great brands exhibiting including Sandqvist, Parlez and Outland – to name just a few. All exhibitors are listed on our website: welcomeeditionshowroom.com As an industry insider, what trends and looks do you see coming up?

In terms of trends, outdoor activities and wellness will continue to be a big influence but with a move away from wearing leisurewear all day.

The fact that we can now visit restaurants, bars and galleries again means that we will have a desire to dress up more as lockdown rules ease.

online business and we feel that we are well positioned to emerge even stronger.

What kind of feedback are you expecting from retailers about the new edition?

So far there has been a lot of goodwill and it appears buyers are very keen to get back to a way of working they were previously familiar with.

What do you think the future of showrooms holds in the coming years?

I think that physical showrooms will be augmented by virtual appointments. Online is here to stay.

With Welcome Edition Showroom right around the corner, what are you most looking forward Mark Batista to at the summer edition?

How did the crisis affect your Brand ProgresI’m definitely looking forward to seeing a lot of the sion agency during the last year? people I’ve missed during these last few months.

Our initial response was: ‘What’s going on?!’. But over time it bewelcomeeditionshowroom.com came apparent that the stores we work with were thriving with their

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Photo: Stefan Höning

Tradeshows MUNICH FABRIC START / BLUEZONE // Innatex // Pitti Uomo // FFW Studio

Munich Fabric Start/Bluezone

INNATEX

Back to the future

ON WE GO

The organisers of Munich Fabric Start (31 August until 2 September 2021) and Bluezone (31 August until 1 September 2021) are looking optimistically ahead to the two tradeshow formats, which will be taking place in line with the Bavarian State Ministry’s regulations. The goal has been set, as Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start, confirms: “We are really looking forward to regaining a semblance of normality with our in-person tradeshows despite, and with, COVID-19. So we will be doing everything we can to provide the industry with the usual portfolio, inspiration, tradeshow vibe and services that people expect from us. We are receiving so much positive feedback from the industry and the need for in-person interaction is huge. With the international portfolio of the upcoming Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone, we want to offer the industry a solid foundation once again on which to strengthen collection timetables and newly defined processes.” At the MOC Munich, exhibitors will be presenting their portfolios in the following segments: Fabrics, Additionals, Bluezone, Keyhouse, Design Studios, Sourcing, ReSource and Sustainable Innovations. At the Zenith venue, Bluezone will showcase the usual spectrum of international denim weaving mills and manufacturers, together with the new-look innovation hub ‘Keyhouse’. In terms of his expectations, Klinder has the following to say: “Despite the huge upheaval and the difficulties that the pandemic has caused in our industry, we also see this time as an opportunity – value chains have been reassessed, strategies rescaled, experiments have been made with digital innovations and the aim of a holistic approach to sustainability has (finally) taken centre stage. Now it’s important to continue pursuing this new way of thinking and positioning our industry for the future – in keeping with the overarching themes of ‘Rise’ and ‘Back to the future’ for our coming shows!”

Good news for green fashion: the 48th Innatex will be taking place from 31 July until 2 August 2021 in Hofheim-Wallau under the motto: ‘On We Go’. So far, over 170 eco and fair fashion labels have registered as exhibitors. Hygiene and safety measures will be adapted to the situation as it stands in the summer. Taking the necessary precautions, Innatex already pulled off a successful event in September 2020 and received positive feedback from exhibitors and visitors. Alexander Hitzel, Innatex Project Manager, knows that the green fashion industry urgently needs a place to meet and do business in person: “The pandemic developments, vaccination campaign and test strategies, as well as our talks with the responsible authorities in the past few weeks, give us every reason to be optimistic.” Their communication with the community also clearly shows that the originally planned dates should go ahead as scheduled and not be postponed until early autumn. In 2020, Innatex was one of the few tradeshows that was allowed to be held under strict health and safety regulations. And according to Hitzel: “As one of the first tradeshows since the second lockdown, we will do everything in our power to ensure that the framework conditions of our event are as convenient, productive and safe as possible.” The team is currently working on new ideas such as a store concept together with the International Association of Natural Textiles Manufacturers (IVN). And there will also be a focus on African labels, which will be allocated their own special area in partnership with the German Agency for International Cooperation. innatex.muveo.de

Photo: Imaxtree

munichfabricstart.com

PITTI UOMO

FFW STUDIO

Tanti auguri!

Time for a rethink

From 30 June until 2 July, the world’s biggest menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo is celebrating its 100th edition on the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. After only being able to take place digitally since the beginning of the pandemic, the event can finally be held in physical form once again – but with only 45 working days to prepare instead of the usual five months. But that’s not the only reason that this edition will be on a much smaller scale: around 300 exhibitors are expected to attend, but there will be fewer buyers at the 100th edition than usual, mainly from Italian brands like Brunello Cucinelli. Due to the travel restrictions that still apply in a number of countries, the Pitti organisers are expecting around 7,000 to 8,000 buyers, mainly from Europe and North America. But Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, seemed confident at the press conference: “We’re not talking about a celebration but an appreciation.” But to exercise caution, the events will only be taking place on the trade fair grounds, where five coronavirus testing stations have been installed. Additional safety measures have been put in place in order to avoid, for example, crowds and gatherings. And this time there will only be three areas, rather than the usual 12 to 14, which are divided into ‘Dynamic Classic’, ’Superstyle’ and ‘Dynamic’. So 50 years of Pitti are already turning out to be “a historical moment”, as Napoelone explains – and not only because it’s the first physical Pitti Uomo to take place since the start of the pandemic.

From 5-9 July 2021, Frankfurt Fashion Week won’t be taking place physically as originally planned, but digitally instead. The COVID situation in Germany has made it impossible for the event’s organisers to plan the upcoming tradeshows with any certainty or reliability. But with FFW STUDIO, the organisers of FFW – Messe Frankfurt and the Premium Group – are showing solidarity with the industry. In the words of Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board at Messe Frankfurt: “We are coming together digitally in July – in the FFW STUDIO. After the long break, we are really looking forward to seeing everyone from the industry again, albeit virtually. The STUDIO is a progressively curated and showcased platform that offers a comprehensive user experience on www.frankfurt. fashion, which covers the entire ecosystem of the new Frankfurt Fashion Week. We are creating the contents for the FFW STUDIO together with our guests, the forward-thinkers from fashion, politics, retail and media. We’ll be sharing knowledge, thinking big and innovatively and providing the industry with inspiration for the coming months – and in the current situation, an inspiring exchange and moderated dialogue are more important than ever. At the focus of our formats are our overarching themes of sustainability and digitisation – all vital topics for the future. These are the topics that are affecting the industry and the key elements of upcoming trends. Because if the last few months have shown us one thing, then it’s that it’s time for a rethink. A lot is pointing towards sustainability and digitisation in the industry right now. Brands are developing new strategies, new innovations are emerging – and even after the pandemic, Fashion Weeks and tradeshows won’t just be taking place as in-person events but will also increasingly include digital elements.”

uomo.pittimmagine.com

frankfurt.fashion

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SHops to watch La Tribune NOIRE / the wasted hour / Ward´robe AFFAIRE

A platform for international black business owners: La Tribune Noire has made it its mission to bring blackowned businesses to Germany – both online as well as in the form of pop-up shops in German cities. La Tribune Noire is leading by example as the platform itself is also a black-owned business. With a retail concept presenting cultural lifestyle products from the diaspora, it aims to boost the visibility and representation of such brands in Germany. The online shop’s product palette includes fashion, cosmetics, interior, art, handicrafts and food items – pop-up shops in major German cities will also stock a selected assortment of these goods. Short-term sales campaigns and promotions will hopefully attract an urban and trend-savvy audience who are happy to shop in the mid to high-end price segment. As well as the whole sales aspect, other values such as the promotion of culture and art and intercultural exchange are also important to its founder André Cramer. /rd latribunenoire.de

Ward’Robe Affaire

The Wasted Hour The Wasted Hour – that’s the name of the digital concept store set up by Martin Hufnagel in 2018, which also has its own magazine. The creative platform offers artists and designers their own space where they can share not only their products but also their stories. The Hamburg local came up with the idea while he was looking for a place to find out more about the products he was interested in.

After searching to no avail, he decided to create such a place himself. These days The Wasted Hour stocks carefully curated products by established brands like Eckhaus Latta and also newcomers like Story mfg. Following his ‘special, selected and sustainable’ ethos, Martin prefers the idea of conscious consumption to mass-produced objects or fast fashion. “When I choose products for The Wasted Hour I always make sure that the item has some kind of effect on me when I look at it or touch it. It has to capture my imagination,” says the founder. As well as special products, The Wasted Hour Magazine also offers a whole universe of information about the goods in the store and the people behind them. You can find articles on current topics, virtual photo exhibitions and short literary texts. In addition, you can listen to inspiring conversations between Martin and his guests in his own podcast or discover the latest additions on ‘The Wasted Hour Mix Tape’. Editorials – mostly shot by Martin himself – showcase the store’s products in a different context. The range offered in digital concept store ‘The Wasted Hour’ is multifaceted and enjoyable to browse. As the name suggests, time passes quickly when perusing the website – but it’s certainly far from wasted! /ay thewastedhour.com

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Photo: Lars Borges

Photo: Art Comes First

La Tribune Noire

Founded in March 2021, Berlin start-up Ward’Robe Affaire already promises to be a great success. On the ‘dating platform for wardrobes’, fashionistas can rent designer fashion rather than constantly buying new stuff.

An affair without the guilt and regret for once! Quite the opposite in fact: renting out rarely worn or unworn clothes is not only practical, but in a world of fleeting trends and ‘wear it once and bin it’ culture, it’s also way more sustainable. This was what motivated its founder Ivana Perbi-Ohlheiser to come up with Ward’Robe Affaire. Born in Ghana, Perbi-Ohlheiser is all too aware of the massive ecological social and economic impact caused by the textile waste in countries like Ghana. With her platform she wants to contribute to a rethink of our consumer behaviour in order to reduce textile waste. “By creating a use for clothing that has already been worn, Ward’Robe Affaire can help reduce the number of new items being manufactured. The rental option encourages people to invest in high-quality clothing that can be worn over and over again.” And the principle is simple: search the website, fall in love and select a rental period of 3 to 12 days. To rent an item of clothing, all you have to do is fill out a form and Ward’Robe Affaire will take care of the rest.

To date, the start-up is still only trading within Berlin, so when checking out you can choose between a personal pick-up or a local packaging and emission-free delivery by GreenCircle. But there are already plans for a Germany-wide app to enable renters and lenders to get in touch with each other directly. Until then, at least Berliners can enjoy their Ward’Robe Affaire with a clear conscience. /ay wardrobeaffaire.com

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The last Word marvin dein, footwear manager at kith

Marvin Dein

The last word … goes to Marvin Dein, Footwear Manager at Kith With over 20 years of experience in retail, Marvin Dein has a broad knowledge of the sector, gained both during his stint at French concept store Colette and his current position as Footwear Manager at Kith. An interview about the future of concept stores and footwear retail.

Interview: franka schmid

Marvin, you actively contributed to the development of famous Parisian concept store Colette. What would you say made the store so unique in terms of its identity?

I contributed to the development of the footwear department for almost ten years. What customers really appreciated was the combination of international fashion trends, art, street art, design, books, gadgets and food. Colette Rousseaux and his daughter Sarah Andelman were way ahead of their time, well before the internet. During these 20 years, Colette distributed 8,600 brands and curated 300 exhibitions.

in-store customer capacity and of course also having hygiene products like hand sanitiser available.

imagination and vision. Make your shopping experience exceptional. Extend the experience with physical and digital services.

What does a successful shopping experience entail for you?

For a good experience, you have to know how to answer all requests and customer needs. Customis-

Which brands are currently dominating the footwear sector? How do you see the chances of small brands catching up with big competitors like Adidas or Nike?

Today you work as Footwear Manager for Kith. How has Kith evolved digitally to ensure strong sales during the pandemic?

Like many other shops, we’ve been serving our customers using the click & collect system and of course generating sales through our online store.

What challenges are you facing in the online footwear sector? How is trust built when the try-on experience isn’t an option?

When it comes to the business of sneakers, the most complicated challenge is to counter the reseller bots that distort the prices with special releases. Apart from that, customers have been used to buying online for several years now.

How do you personally see the future of concept stores? What challenges do buyers face post-pandemic?

Most concept stores would like to have the ‘Colette’ formula but, in my opinion, they just need to find their own identity. Buyers are the guarantors of success; they are the ones who need to attract consumers into their universe with approaches that are more original than those of their competitors.

ing interaction in a customer-centric way means understanding that there is no such thing as an ‘average’ customer. Transform prospects and contacts into potential customers. Deliver the right message to the right customer at the right time to convert the leads on sale. Create a long-term commitment that generates a loyal clientele.

Nike and Adidas have been dominating the sector for several decades. I don’t think a small brand could ever compete with them. The budgets and costs for design, marketing and distribution channels are too high, and these brands are miles ahead of others in terms of their past catalogue of products.

To what extent will the store design adapt in the future in order to comply with current hygiene standards, etc.?

Good air conditioning will prove very important in the future, as well as respecting a reasonable

How can you ensure customer loyalty and long-term commitment?

54 percent of customers feel more loyalty towards brands that understand their preferences. The customer has to be able to dial into the brand’s

More and more fashion brands are currently combining their areas of expertise. Take, for example, the surprising collaboration between Gucci and Balenciaga. What makes a good collab for you?

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The first thing that’s really important in a collaboration is sharing a vision. To be beneficial, the collaboration should be the meeting of two universes that complement each other and bring something new to the table. Other important facets of collaborations are looking for a positioning effect and focusing on a target. The objective is to become better known in a different marketing group and to shine.

Like Virgil Abloh and Ikea coming up with a series of rugs and ‘work of art’ objects. The Artistic Director of Off-White and Louis Vuitton for Men, who has always advocated access to art and high-end style for all, has found exactly the right niche from which to reach a wider audience. Meanwhile, Ikea is enjoying an image boost and creating a ‘must-have’ hype. In terms of creating the event, orchestration is still important. It’s obviously not enough to launch a new product just for the mere joy of bringing it out into the world. Play the media game, especially social media, to make this possible.

How can social media be used to support collaborations?

Influencers can be a beautiful lever of media coverage. Celebrity endorsements are great too.

And relying on an exchange of values and territories. A collaboration can only be a success if it is an exchange of values. Sometimes the goal is to reinforce your positioning and allow yourself to open up to a new audience. Both brands surf the trend wave and combine to highlight their common values, creating an unprecedented product and a positive development for each of them. The recent collab between Kith and Tommy Hilfiger is two generations of brands, related by their DNA and deeply embedded in New York history. Two symbols, two generations, one providing credibility to the other. High-end fashion on the one hand and street fashion on the other. When all this comes together, you’re onto a winner.

What are you personally looking forward to the most in 2021?

I hope we will be able to move on from this period very quickly so we can recover as quickly as possible and restart business activities for all sectors. kith.com

D i l b o r n e r S t r. 6 5 , 4 1 3 7 9 B r ü g g e n Julian Kerpers Mobil: +49 171 7707710 Mail: julian@key-l ime.de

Spring/Summer 2022

CHOOSE LIFE CHOOSE SUSTAINABILITY. CHOOSE PERSONALITY. CHOOSE CHARITY. CHOOSE LOVE.

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