J'N'C News 01/2023

a TEmPTInG OffEr

Before taking on the roles of Chairman of the Board at filson and Global Strategist at WP Lavori in Corso, Paolo Corinaldesi had actually turned his back on management positions. Read our interview to find out why he changed his mind, what he’s planning for the 125-year-old brand and what he thinks 2023 will bring. p. 20

T ra DESHOWS

Back with a Bang!

From Florence to Berlin and Düsseldorf all the way to Munich and Offenbach. The tradeshow season is getting underway in January and sending out a clear message: “We’re back!”. p. 38

TEL a GE n OVa Firm Foundations in tough times

Tela Genova is synonymous with premium-quality Italian denim. Brand Manager Cristiano Caucci is convinced that, when things get tough, going back to your roots is the key to success. p. 26

HEN’S TEETH wardroBe essentiaLs

Could you fit your most important items of clothing into just one bag? It was this idea that inspired Hen’s Teeth founder, Davide Biondi, to make the ultimate wardrobe must-haves – completely by hand. p. 34

BITS & PIECES eFFortLess season stYLe

The autumn/winter 2023 season is all about leaving the pandemic behind and striking a new balance between comfort and renewed selfconfidence. p. 10

BraInS BEHInD THE BranDS / PAOLO CORINALDESI, FILSON

COTTON CORDUROY

A N U A R Y 2 0 2 3 B E R L I N

Areal Böhler Düsseldorf

Neonyt and FASHN ROOMS – side by side

Two trade fair s, two concepts – side by side from 28 to 30 January 2023 in Düsseldorf: Neonyt – licensed by Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH, the most relevant B2B community platform for fashion, sustainability, and innovation, meets FASHN ROOMS – See & Order, the international fashion trade fair, and its showroom concept.

Create synergies, seize opportunities

For the fir st time, Neonyt will tak e place in its new German homebase Düsseldorf – in direct neighborhood and at the same time as the long-established FASHN ROOMS The realization of the two independent trade fair s as a parallel B2B event at the innovation location Areal Böhler offer s numerous synergy effects. With a combined tick et, trade visitor s can easily visit both formats. This not only creates short distances for inspiration and networking, but also an optimal business and ordering environment. Neonyt as an order platform in the sustainable sector can thus present its strong expertise for sustainable fashion and hip designs to a broad and commercial mark et. Visitor s and exhibitor s of FASHN ROOMS have the opportunity to get focused input on the topic of sustainability.

The link between the two independent events is the centrally positioned conference format THE STAGE, which is used by both trade shows. Fashionsustain, the well-known best practice format of Neonyt, addresses current sustainability topics from the Neonyt community in alternation with seminar s and trend lectures of FASHN ROOMS

Come together!

With FASHN ROOMS and Neonyt in Düsseldorf, IGEDO EXHIBITIONS

offer s concentrated fashion competence at the main ordering date for the textile and fashion industry in Germany’s No. 1 ordering location. The combined ticket is available now at: fashn-rooms com or neonyt-duesseldorf.com.

Neonyt

& FASHN ROOMS

January 28 – 30, 2023

Areal Böhler, Düsseldorf, Germany

SHOWROOM CONCEPT

January 26 – 30, 2023

Areal Böhler, Düsseldorf, Germany

aLL fOr OnE anD OnE fOr aLL

After talking to so many people from the industry about their crisis management over the past few years, I have noticed that there’s usually one common denominator in all their success or survival stories: teamwork is everything! But what constitutes good teamwork exactly?

The first thing that springs to mind for me are the three musketeers and their famous motto: ‘All for one and one for all’. In other words, we’re all in the same boat and whatever comes at us, we can get through it together. Provided, of course, that everyone involved shows trust, loyalty and perhaps even a certain degree of heroic dedication. But what happens when one of the three musketeers reaches their limits or doesn’t want to go on? We can look to nature for a solution strategy. Just take orcas, for example, who are successful hunters with an incredibly smart teamwork concept: two of these killer whales hunt their prey at high speed, while another two swim at a slower pace behind them. Sprinters at the front, joggers at the back. When the two whales at the front start getting tired, the ‘jogger’ orcas catch them up and go full speed ahead, leaving the two sprinters to fall behind and recover. The result: the task is complete and the work was shared out fairly. So a good team strategy alone can determine success or failure. In a work context, a motivated, well-coordinated team can race to the finish of even the most strenuous marathon. The importance of good teamwork is confirmed by Paolo Corinaldesi, Chairman of the Board of Filson, in our cover interview. Two years ago he took over at the helm of the US label, which belongs to WP Lavori, although he no longer saw himself in executive roles. Turn to page 20 to find out what drew him to the job anyway and what role his team plays. The various fashion tradeshows also have the loyalty of their teams to thank for their success and this year we’re not only seeing a 20-year anniversary, but also plenty of comebacks, relaunches and restarts. And there’s a lot to be discovered, both old and new – from Florence to Berlin all the way to Düsseldorf, Munich and Offenbach. But regardless of where and when we end up coming together, we – the fashion industry as a whole – are the biggest team there is and catching up between the trade fair booths, away from the confines of our own four walls or offices, is always a pleasure. You can find more tradeshow highlights from page 38. Face-to-face contact is also extremely important to Tela Genova’s Brand Manager Cristiano Caucci – especially after the digital boom accelerated by the pandemic. In our brand portrait from page 26, he explains why he doesn’t believe in digital showrooms, why he wants to strengthen the company’s roots even further and why he isn’t planning on tapping into new markets any time soon.

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Kathrin Wimber

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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aSSOCIaTE PuBLISHEr

Pierre D’Aveta

EDITOrS Jenni Koutni (jk) Franka Schmid (fs) Deniz Trosdorff (dt) Kristin Walzel (kw)

COPy EDITOr Paula Hedley

TranSLaTIOn Paula Hedley, Galina Green (trendtranslations.de)

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EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

PrODuCTIOn EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

Maria Chiara Teza, co-founder of Think Inc. Communications, has a very different opinion on digital showrooms. Alongside Holger Petermann, Cornelius Drabarczyk vel Grabarczyk and her team, she came up with the idea of establishing a virtual space in the style of 90s computer games as a Press Days alternative during the COVID lockdowns and really struck a chord. In The Last Word on page 46, she tells us what running a press agency entails in the current climate and what she believes is vital to modern-day leadership. Good teamwork also begins with good leadership, after all.

I wish you all a very Happy New Year and look forward to seeing you in 2023.

Cheryll Mühlen & team

GraPHIC DESIGn

Diana Huste (dgraphix.de)

PHOTOGraPHy Cristian Muriani

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ISSN: 2193-8423

Luxury x PaSSIOn

Day D rE am By m aC – As the name suggests, Daydream by Mac is all about daydreams of effortless, modern styles. In the coming AW23 collection, natural silhouettes, striking textures and flowing fabrics are setting the tone as part of everyday looks that go way beyond the everyday. In the AW23 collection, timeless tailoring meets functional sportswear: Head of Design Katerina Grigoriadis effortlessly strikes the perfect balance between comfort, glamour and elegance with the latest processing techniques and the highest quality fabrics like flowing cord, panne velvet and silk.

MaC-jEaNS COM

TOGETHEr & COnnECTED

MaRC O’POlO – With the new AW23 collection, Marc O’Polo is highlighting its Scandinavian roots and putting the focus on recycled and responsibly sourced materials. Here the brand is thinking beyond the usual life cycle of garments and presenting its first ‘Designed for Circularity’ designs. The highlight of the collection remains the collaboration with French brand Chevignon under the motto ‘Together connected’. Ranging from outerwear to accessories, the FrenchSwedish partnership has resulted in vintage-inspired classics such as patched bomber jackets and cable knitwear adorned with the two brand logos.

MaRC - O - POlO COM

mEmOry makErS

CamEL aCTIVE – Whether for the present or the future, Camel Active not only leaves a lasting impression, but also a positive footprint. With the AW23 collection, the brand is investing in durable, non-seasonal styles like puffer jackets and worker jackets made from sustainable materials. Camel Active is proving once again that reliable utility solutions with sustainable functional membrane teXXXactive can keep out the cold and rain while still looking stylish. Making their debut in the winter 2023 season are matching coordinates made of velvet cord or ‘bubble cord’ – durable performance wear in relaxed silhouettes that can also be perfectly combined as part of a layered look.

CamEL aCTIVE COm

muLTIfaCETED & TraDITIOnaL

aLBE rTO – Fashion that goes way beyond mere functionality. With its AW23 collection, trouser specialist Alberto from Mönchengladbach in the north-west of Germany is once again proving that its creations not only pass the everyday work and leisurewear test with flying colours, but also boast a whole range of technical innovations. Highlights of the winter 2023 season include their innovation (soft cord trousers without any cotton whatsoever), smart thermal pants made from Japanese fabrics with a two-way stretch and the three new models in the Neo Workwear line.

alb ERTO - Pa NTS COM

InSPIrED By BErLIn

W I n DSO r – There aren’t many European cities that have as much of a buzz as Berlin, which is why Windsor is drawing inspiration from the German capital for the pre-AW23 season. The collection represents the city’s incomparable history and architecture along with the unmistakeable free spirit of its cultural life. Always relaxed but elegant at the same time, the label is playing with contrasts in its usual harmonious way and exceeding the expectations of its wearers with 24/7 looks consisting of laid-back silhouettes, premium quality knitwear and a monochrome colour palette.

WI n DSO r.DE

WEar IT LOuD

COPE n H aGE n S T u DIOS – A combination of Scandinavian minimalism and refreshing urban flair defines this label. Established in 2017 by the two Liebeskind Berlin founders Johannes and Julian Rellecke, it has firmly established itself on the European shoe market over the last five years. For the AW23 collection, only soft materials like calfskin and suede have been used. Under the motto ‘Retro Futuristic’, dominant colours like bright orange and acid greens alternate with neutral tones like milk, black and white and perfectly reflect the energetic, contrasting rhythm of the Danish capital.

COPE n H aGE nST u

COnTEmPOrary rEnaISSanCE

COLOurS & SO nS – Under the motto ‘Made for all of us’, Colours & Sons from Düsseldorf is presenting diversity and rich, vibrant colours in its collections. For AW23, the label is serving up urban sportswear under the theme ‘Contemporary Renaissance’. Instead of the omnipresent sweat looks, the focus here is on knitwear, outerwear, overshirts and trousers. Despite the burst of colour, the pieces of the AW23 collection can be harmoniously combined, with the three winter colours green, orange and maroon taking centre stage. Product highlights include outerwear looks like puffer and college jackets made with stonewashed, twill and cold-dyed fabrics. The individual styles are perfectly coordinated and can be combined in a multitude of ways.

COLOurSan DSO nS COm

DIOS COm

Dna WITH VaLuES

amErICan VInTaGE – For SS23, French fashion brand American Vintage is staying true to its DNA with timeless clothing defined by modernity and casual silhouettes. Including, of course, the brand’s signature piece – the white T-shirt, which has had a firm place in its collections ever since it was founded in 2005. The new collection is all about laid-back casualwear in light pastel and neutral tones. Another interesting feature is the gender-neutral clothing style, which, instead of being restricted to a specific gender, is oriented more towards each wearer’s individual style. As Michael Azoulay, founder and CEO, explains: “Over the seasons, we realised that an increasing number of women were buying items from the men’s section. We’d already intended to go in this direction, but it definitely consolidated the idea for us: why not offer gender-neutral fashion collections for both women and men?” Comfort and style remain number one priorities, both of which are provided in the especially soft materials and knit and jersey fabrics the brand is known for. /dt

THE nEW CHIC

CInQuE – In its womenswear collection for the AW2023 season, fashion brand Cinque is presenting styles that play with opposites. Classic pieces make the look more sophisticated and dressier, with soft, modern fabrics for a figure-hugging silhouette. Contrasting garments are combined to provide new inspiration, such as a masculine pinstripe suit with a feminine cropped top or a pair of wide leather trousers with a soft, flowing silk blouse. ‘Opposites attract’ is the theme here. For the menswear styles, Cinque is focusing on modern tailoring that is opulent, eccentric and bold all at the same time. Inspired by style icon Harry Styles, the looks are more colourful than usual. The outerwear pieces also experiment with opposites such as shiny and matt surfaces and overshirts that can be worn as jackets. Elaborate textures and structured knitwear add a modern depth to the collection. /dt

CInQuE DE

THE SOfT OPTIOn

BL auEr uSa – In their new autumn/winter 2023 collection, Blauer USA are merging historical elements with modern designs. Creativity and experience are the inspiration behind the new range. Jackets and coats are at the fore with the men’s selection including everything from the characteristic bomber jackets to iconic parkas, jackets in military utilitarian look and field jackets. ‘Uncompromisingly soft’ is the new concept of the lightweight down jacket made of pale-coloured nylon, which is available for men and women. Sustainability is also a priority for Blauer with their down anoraks and gilets filled with eco-friendly ‘Sorona’ and ‘Repreve’ padding. The classic reversible jackets and items of clothing made of functional materials and with heatsealed Thermofix seams and new faux fur lining are making an appearance in the brand’s autumn/winter 2023 collection too. And the iconic Blauer USA camouflage print is also celebrating its revival. /cm

BL auEruSa.COm

nEW SIGnaTurE faBrICS

g - l ab – There’s no need to compromise on comfort, functionality or style at G-Lab because the Düsseldorf-based outerwear label continues to deliver much-loved classics with new highlights from one season to the next. For autumn/winter 2023, new signature fabrics have been added, including ‘Soft Canvas’, ‘Kasuri’ and ‘Terra Shell’ – all particularly soft and naturallooking double and triple-layered outer materials, the likes of which, according to G-Lab, have never been seen before. This also has a lot to do with the fact that the AW23 styles are made with more than 90 percent recycled or sustainably sourced materials. In the womenswear collection, two re-interpreted jacket classics come in their new signature fabric ‘Kasuri’, a Japanese ikat fabric patterning technique. The cosy ‘Soft Canvas’ fabric is also used throughout the womenswear range. As for the menswear, the new ‘Terra Shell’ fabric is the star of the show, made of 100 percent recycled and biodegradable polyamide. /cm

an unExPECTED COLLaBOraTIOn

DIOr By DEnIm TEarS – For the autumn 2023 Dior menswear show, Kim Jones designed a capsule collection in collaboration with Denim Tears, a brand founded in 2019 by Tremaine Emory. Unveiled on 2 December 2022 at an exclusive show at the Grand Egyptian Museum in Cairo, the collection is an ode to the inventiveness of the house of Dior and the significance of its creative partnerships. The pieces designed by Denim Tears celebrate the look of black Ivy League students of the 1950s and 1960s, as well as the style of jazz musicians from the same period. The collection takes us on a trip to the jazz centres of the world, from New York via New Orleans to Paris, combining American craftsmanship with French couture and is a harmonious coexistence of elegance and laid-back style: classic meets rebellion. Translated into fashion, it can be described as preppy meets the origins of ‘cool’ with homespun American clothing – unpretentious checked shirts, robust varsity jackets and laid-back chinos – combined with sophisticated wool coats, elegantly tailored suits and chic cognac leather accessories like the trumpet bag. /cm

DIOr.COm DEnImTEarS COm

On THE CrEST Of a WaVE

SaVE THE DuCk – The brand is going back to its origins for the new autumn/winter season and therefore also revisiting its iconic models – all of which are made from animal-free fabrics, some of which are also recycled. For the new season the brand is also introducing new silhouettes and fits. In addition to its timeless styles, we can look forward to new quilted patterns, including a modern, wave-shaped option. Further highlights are the jackets and padded shirts made of robust cord that come with water-resistant coating. And the real eye-catchers in the menswear range are shiny nylon jumpers with checks and colourful motifs, as well as hooded styles made of eco-teddy jacquard and laqué nylon. When it comes to the womenswear, Save The Duck is expanding its offer of fashionable clothing in the form of oversized bomber jackets, cropped puffers and padded maxi jackets. The brand manages to pull off the perfect blend of fashion flair with urban functionality, such as its styles with extremely puffy silhouettes and extra roomy pockets. /dt

SElF -lOvE & SElF - C aRE

DI PETSa – Based on intimacy and esoteric research, Di Petsa’s approach to dressing and design is focused on women’s changing bodies. The womenswear brand from London was established in 2019 by Greek designer Dimitra Petsa and is rooted in interdisciplinary concepts in combination with classic tailoring, traditional craftsmanship, drapery techniques and sustainable textile development. The London-based label caused a sensation with the characteristic ‘Wetlook’ dress, a symbol of self-acceptance and the honouring of our fluid state. Modelled by muses Bella Hadid, FKA Twigs, Lizzo, Doja Cat and SZA, the Wetlook has evolved into the ethereal pregnancy reveal dress worn by Gigi Hadid and Nicki Minaj. The new SS23 collection is also inspired by femininity and magical realism. “The inspiration you find from letting go, immersing yourself in the nature around you, and grounding in the belief to be present and connected to your body, your vessel and the water that contains it,” explains Dimitra Petsa. The new collection includes loose-fitting garments like silk organza kaftans and gowns made from recycled mesh. Dominating the colour palette at Di Petsa are pink, red and earthy tones. /kw

m aDE TO BE rEC yCLED

W y T – Christian Gschwend from Zurich set up his label WYT within the Swiss Start-up Factory and has made it his mission to introduce a circular economy. In 2021 WYT launched its first white T-shirt, which follows the ‘wear, send back, recycle’ principle. In response to the common practice of throwing away used clothing and producing extra waste, WYT has come up with an alternative: the brand’s products can be returned in their original packaging after use. For every product that is sent back to WYT, the customer receives a 25 percent discount off a new one. The worn items of clothing are then recycled in Portugal and the recovered material is turned into new garments. “Our goal is to become the first circular essentials brand in Europe,” says Christian Gschwend. For the current winter season, WYT is presenting a sweater set, consisting of sweatpants and a half-zip sweatshirt. At the focus are high-quality materials like recycled and organic cotton. And they’ve even added a classic black T-shirt in addition to the white one. /kw

WEarW y T COm

Creepy and kooky, mysterious and spooky – and delightfully dark. If there’s one show that everyone has been bingewatching lately, then it’s without a doubt the smash-hit Netflix series ‘Wednesday’. And with the comeback of the Addams family’s most popular member, the all-black goth look is currently also taking the streets and runways by storm.

and l - gam, Paolo Corinaldesi is now Chairman of the board at Filson after one year as the company’s CEO. He stepped down in june and, in addition to his chairman position, has also recently taken on the role of Global Strategist at WP Lavori in Corso. a lot of responsibility for a man who said that he no longer saw himself in an executive role. In this interview, he reveals what appealed to him about filson, which strategy he is pursuing for the brand and what he thinks the next few years will bring.

InTErVIEW: CHEryLL müHLEn

you once said, “after Woolrich, I thought that my time as an executive was over, but when the opportunity to join Filson came along, I couldn’t say no.” Why? What attracted you to the job and is it everything you expected it to be?

I spent two full years in Seattle and it was an intense and challenging time. When the offer was laid on the table, I couldn’t turn it down. It was a rare opportunity to make a difference in the unique environment of Seattle and the Pacific Northwest. I was fascinated by a part of North America that I didn’t know much about. Seattle is home not only to many major corporations (Amazon, Microsoft, Boeing, Starbucks etc.) but also many start-ups. Thanks to that, I had the chance to learn a lot and was able to connect with many young and interesting entrepreneurs, artists etc. With regard to Filson, my past experience at Woolrich helped me a lot. This time, the experience was even more immersive due to the fact that Seattle is so far from other big US cities – even San Francisco seems far away. But it was very rewarding working with a young team and a bright, talented creative director, Alex Carleton. The business was there but a lot of things needed to be fixed. I stepped down as CEO of the company in June but I remained Chairman of the Board because part of my heart and mind are still very much in it.

you were appointed CEO of filson two years ago, amid an extremely difficult time for the whole world. What have you experienced in the last year at f ilson and where have you

been able to leave your mark, both as CEO and Chairman of the Board?

Being the sixth CEO in Filson’s history makes me very proud and I would like to thank both Bedrock and Tom Kartsotis, as well as WP and Cristina Calori for having given me this opportunity. I hope that I have been able to make a worthwhile contribution to Filson with my experience in finance and operations. We worked very hard in Seattle to create healthy margins, focusing on efficiency, particularly in manufacturing (a significant proportion of Filson products are still manufactured at the Seattle factory), as well as in the supply chain and redefining the organisation in a way that is closer to how the industry works today. I was impressed at how the team in Seattle reacted so positively to all these changes.

you were the sixth CEO of the company, which is over 120 years old. How have you handled such a rich heritage while also bringing it into the future? In other words, what’s your vision for Filson and how do you plan to fulfil it?

I see the future of Filson as being very bright, both in the US market and internationally in Europe. There aren’t many heritage brands like Filson. The brand is pure and intact and finally leveraging its own status. Now we just have to increase the level of brand awareness.

Filson’s product range covers outerwear as well as luggage and bags. The team in Seattle is young and extremely talented, plus the partnership in Europe with WP, which has tremendous know-how

and the capability to develop American brands here in Europe, is already helping. The partnership doesn’t just work on a commercial level: the two teams, based in Seattle and Bologna, are working closely to refine the product assortment and make the line itself more international.

from your role as Global Strategist with WP Lavori, you have plenty of experience when it comes to WP labels. What keeps attracting you to the brands under WP l avori’s umbrella? This is another interesting chapter of my professional life. WP is like home to me. I believe that WP’s combination of distributed brands like Barbour, Blundstone, C.T. Plage and owned brands like Baracuta, BD Baggies and Spiewak all provide WP with a unique opportunity. And I see WP as an incubator, the same way it was with Cristina at the helm from the 80s.

It is very challenging though. Being a multi-brand company means that you have to be really flexible, both from an organisational point of view and in all the other aspects like creative direction, marketing etc. I found a highly talented team, which Cristina had put together in the years following the sale of Woolrich and I’m really positive about how things are going. Although I wasn’t around in those early days, WP is now quite similar to how it was when it was first founded. A unique company with a unique DNA still capable of bringing real products to the market with an authentic history. What we have to do now is develop the full potential of brands like Baracuta, Filson and Spiewak (not forgetting Avon Celli) and still push brands like Barbour and Blundstone that are producing really good results. My contribution will be mainly focused on organisational

aspects

Filson’s ‘Mackinaw Wool Cruiser’ has been around since 1914. ccording to the brand, it offers “the most versatile cold-weather protection you’ll find – when you want to wear one jacket, no matter what direction the weather turns, nothing performs better.”

Paolo Corinaldesi, Chairman of the Board at f ilson & Global Strategist at WP Lavori in Corso

Credit: Cristian Muriani

because the team is already strong in all other departments.

The competition remains tough. What do you think sets filson apart from other brands?

Yes, the competition is tough. I see it every day. What sets Filson apart though is its history. Past and present. Alex Carleton, the creative director since 2014, has preserved Filson. Other brands have diluted their DNA, but not Filson. It is really one of the few remaining heritage brands with roots in the region where it’s located. As I mentioned before, the Pacific Northwest is isolated from most other parts of the US, so since its inception, Filson, which is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year, has developed its own philosophy –with close ties to Alaska, for example. Not many other brands are as real and authentic. So the challenge is to broaden the customer base. When a customer first gets to know Filson and its products, they definitely understand that they are experiencing something unique and real that will probably last forever.

f ilson is aiming for global expansion. Which markets are particularly attractive to you and why?

First of all, Filson has a huge unexploited potential in North America. There is a massive opportunity there. Secondly, Europe – through our partnership with WP. The integration of the main US line with some items specifically developed for the European market is bringing results, also in the US, and already paying dividends. The two teams are also already working on a women’s line that we expect to launch in autumn/ winter 2024. This is a huge opportunity for any market, the US included.

I see Japan as being third in line due to the Japanese customers’ love of US heritage brands. We can grow the business there substantially. We are keeping China on hold for now, because we want to approach the

market at the right time and with the right partner. But it’s definitely another opportunity waiting for us.

With all the craziness going on right now, what are your predictions for the years ahead?

I think the years ahead will be very challenging. For many reasons. The industry is changing a lot. Having a reliable sourcing platform is a lot more important these days. Sustainability is no longer just a marketing tactic: it has become a must. You can’t ignore it.

the big ones are doing, but without losing flexibility. We are living in very interesting times, that’s for sure.

So, on that note, what are your hopes for 2023?

As WP and Filson, we remain positive – despite all the challenges awaiting us in 2023. We expect to continue growing, as we did in 2022. For WP specifically, we are focusing on organisational aspects to enable the talent we have in the company to blossom. After all, it’s the team that makes the difference, that’s something we are observing more and more.

fILSO n.Eu

The macroeconomic environment in Europe is particularly negative: maybe less so than we were thinking a couple of months ago, but still not particularly bright. The brands, and specifically both WP and Filson, need to face all of these factors combined with a realistic but creative approach. We need to bring products to the market that are long lasting and fairly priced. People are searching for true values, even more so today, and will be opting to spend their budget on buying products that will satisfy on a full scale and for a long time. Plus, the execution of strategic plans has become pivotal. You have to keep your mistakes to a minimum and communicate your values in the right way. With all the information that we have today, you have to stay true. In all aspects. The concentration of brands is forcing small and medium companies to try and preserve niches and absorb what

a fter homesteading in n ebraska and roaming the country as a railroad conductor, C.C. filson, who was born in 1850, moved to what was then the small city of Seattle, Washington in the 1890s –during the time of the Great k londike Gold rush. In 1897 he opened C.C. Filson’s Pioneer a laska Clothing and Blanket manufacturers, specialising in goods for the stampeders to the k londike Gold rush. a lthough the Gold rush faded into history, Filson continued his outdoor clothing business. Drawing from his past experience outfitting loggers and lumberjacks, he soon added clothing for the timber industry, including the now famous filson Cruiser. In the 1960s, Filson’s reputation as a leading supplier of outdoor clothing soon spread around the globe. Filson clothing wasn’t just offered by highend retailers of outdoorwear, but also ordered by mail from places as far away as Greenland. These days, filson is more than just a functional outdoor brand. During its 120-year history, the company has also secured a place for itself on the fashion scene and continues to write its unparalleled success story.

We are already Working on a women’s line that We expect to launch in aW24.

OnE

Of a kInD

TE x T: JEnnI kOuTnI

With its elaborate, time-consuming production, selvedge is one of the highest quality denims around. You can recognise it by the tightly woven vertical band on the outer leg seam of the jeans, which is usually white with a coloured yarn in the middle. Selvedge prevents the fabric from unravelling and results in a clean, finished look. One label that has mastered the art of this quality denim is Italian menswear label Tela Genova, whose products are inspired by Italian textile traditions and the nautical origins of the fabric, which be -

gan in the merchant city of Genoa where it was used as sailcloth. This kind of denim dates back to the year 1515, a year that is memorialised in Tela Genova’s logo. Nowadays, it is Cristiano Caucci, Brand Manager, who relaunched Tela Genova in 2015, ensures that the label continues to move with the times. His family, who has been working in the clothing industry for more than 50 years now, taught him to respect old traditions and manufacturing processes. But new challenges also have to be faced. That’s why the team at Tela

Genova do their utmost to save water where they can and completely forgo the use of chemical treatments. “Developments over the past few years really have strengthened my resolve,” says Caucci on the topic. “We need to slow down and return products to their original quality to ensure they last longer. Tela Genova takes a clear stand against fast fashion and excessive consumerism.” Above all, the past few years have shown us that textile production needs to be approached with respect and responsibility for all steps in the

Old values in tough times: for Italian menswear label Tela Genova, the secret to success lies in strengthening the company’s roots.

Cristiano Caucci from Tela Genova

production process. But they won’t let the current challenging market situation slow them down, as he explains: “We work hard on our products, images and distribution. We even accelerated the growth process, so I can safely say that under these circumstances, we will be able to take advantage of the opportunities that come our way.”

As Tela Genova is positioned at the high end of the market with its genuine selvedge denim, his clientele will be able to cope with the inevitable price hikes, says Brand Manager Caucci.

rEL aTIO nSHIP GOa LS

Face-to-face contact is more important than ever in this segment, confirms Caucci: “I believe in

physical tradeshows and don’t like digital showrooms. I want to see, I want to touch, I want to meet people. I can’t do anything with a cold screen.” This is also why they have decided to return to Pitti Uomo and are planning exhibitions at the Boot Root order show in Zurich, as well as at Welcome Edition in Paris for their SS24 collection. The B2B business was also expanded further last year. As Cristiano Caucci emphasises, difficult times will only strengthen their company roots: “We are in the process of consolidating our largest market, which is Italy, but we have no plans to open new doors right now. Despite not having the best season with denim in stores across the EU,

we are expecting healthy growth in good markets such as Denmark, Sweden, Belgium, Holland and Switzerland.” With the launch of the new ‘NOOS’ capsule collection and B2B business, he believes that Tela Genova will be able to react even better to the needs of retailers. And that, Caucci concludes, is still what’s most important, even in times of digitalisation: “I’ve made wonderful new contacts in the last few months. Our partners are strong and passionate about denim, just like us. And that’s what it all comes down to at the end of the day.”

TEL aGE n OVa.IT

IT’S GETTING HOT IN HERE –HE aTaBLE faSHIOn

Trench coats are an absolute must-have for the autumn season. But once the wintry temperatures arrive, the trusty lightweight style tends to be banished to the back of our wardrobes in favour of warmer coats made of down and wool. alpha Tauri is now taking the trench into a new season with its Heatable Capsule Collection 2.0.

TE x T: franka SCHmID

For the past two years Alpha Tauri has been concentrating on its Smart Fashion series and working closely alongside Deutsche Telekom and Schoeller Textil AG to create a particularly innovative collection for the winter season: the Heatable Capsule Collection 2.0. Its new highlights include a unisex trench coat and commuter jacket, both of which have different zones that can be individually heated. But how does that work exactly?

Whether with the touch of a button or via an app on your smartphone, Apple Watch or other device of choice, the zones for both the front and back pockets can be activated and controlled to suit your personal preferences. For the first time, it’s possible to adjust them to a specific temperature, which can then be saved. Using the ‘Swap’ mode, the back and the pockets can even be heated alternately.

The water-resistant functional fabric of the trench coat from the Heatable Capsule Collection boasts an inner lining of cork that retains heat much more effectively. And if you prefer a sportier look, the collection also has you covered with its commuter jacket that has functional features like a stowaway hood, a foldable splash guard for cyclists, a pocket on the back and extra-long, ergonomically shaped cuffs. With these two new additions to the capsule collection, Alpha Tauri is proving how to cleverly combine a modern style with innovative technology. With Swiss textile company Schoeller Textil AG, they have a particularly experienced partner at their side. The global company can look back on a history dating back to 1868. Focusing on outdoor apparel, Schoeller comes up with modern solutions that are defined by durability and functionality. These include performance textiles as well as tried-and-tested stretch fabrics, which are ideal

for active sports enthusiasts as well as mountaineers. They also supply protective textiles with innovative protective technologies for rescue services or special forces. Schoeller is a strong global player, providing Alpha Tauri with the E-Soft-Shell heating technology and other fabrics. The cooperation is rounded off by the collaboration with Deutsche Telekom that enables the heating technology to be controlled via an app on Android and iOS devices. The styles are charged with a power bank that is stowed is stowed in its own special back pocket. The collection is currently available from the brand’s own stores in Salzburg, Graz, Vienna and now also London. Alpha Tauri is focusing on expansion and, in addition to its mono-brand stores, is also available from selected retailers as well as online.

a LPH aTaurI COm

stargazing

TExT: JEnnI kOuTnI

a lberto celebrated its centenary in 2022. What innovations are you kicking off your 101st year with? Instead of thinking what we should do next, we’re just celebrating our 101st year in exactly the same way and starting 2023 very optimistically. As a company, we are continually working on the perfect fit, combined with modern and innovative materials. And we have deliberately dedicated our latest campaign to the stars. Like all our campaigns, we’ll be shooting it in Germany, this time in an observatory. Because personally, I have never looked into the sky as often as I did last year. As we all know, the future lies in the stars; you kind of start to philosophise when you look up. We wanted to transport this optimistic feeling with the campaign.

Cut, material and function are extremely important to a lberto. a mid the pressures of climate change and the wasteful use of resources, is there one aspect in the design process that is more important than ever?

I think a lot of people still haven’t realised that our biggest problem will be the scarcity of resources. It’s not about sticking a label on our clothes to show that we’re organic. Our focus lies on efficiency. If we have a well-functioning design process, wasting as little fabric as possible and then using remnants or returning them to the cycle, then that is the right path. When it comes to environmentally friendly materials, we are currently in the process of putting together something really exciting. I can’t wait to announce it in the coming year.

What effect is the current situation having on a lberto’s strategy for 2023?

for German trouser specialist alberto, 2023 will be all about its 101st anniversary. managing Director marco Lanowy talks to us about optimism in difficult times, how he would rethink the concept of trade fairs and why we should look up at the stars more often.

targazing

Thanks to our affluent customer bases in Scandinavian countries, Switzerland, the Benelux countries, Germany and also the US, we have a solid target group that is pretty inflation-proof. For the golf segment alone, we have around 60 million golfers to sell to. We also have a very good feel for our point-of-sale. Our segments can be compared to design classics because they are long lasting and modern. Our style can be described as somewhere between Italian and Scandinavian mixed with our inimitable Alberto signature look.

a lot of trade fairs celebrated their comebacks last year. How important are the physical shows today in your opinion?

As social beings, we always need personal touchpoints, be it trade fairs or showrooms. There’s nothing better than being able to give someone a hug and say “Great to see you”. Once that became possible again after the pandemic, we sent out a clear signal by exhibiting at Panorama in Berlin. This year we are faced with the challenge of very early order dates, which is why we chose CIFF in Copenhagen and Modefabriek in Amsterdam. In Germany, communication will be via showrooms because there is no other way around the dates. But a dream for me would be to completely rethink the concept of tradeshows. Not just coming together once a year, for example, but using all the many different communication channels that exist today. The most important thing is still personal communication, but these days you can pretty much do most of your daily business digitally.

Pandemic, lockdowns, supply shortages – what

lessons has a lberto learnt from the past few years that are relevant for the future?

We didn’t have the issue of being reliant on resources from China – apart from the world-leading supplier of zips or particularly high-tech fabrics. But thankfully, because of that we didn’t have to lay off a single member of staff, we just had four weeks where we had to reduce people’s hours. We couldn’t afford to take any more time off because our level of service is so high. As a company, you are always confronted with some aspect of saving or optimisation. But if you know where you stand, you can take the appropriate counter measures. We are even hiring new employees right now. Because our clear goal is always to provide the best service for the product and the customer. For us, that means a lot of personal interaction, but also the smart use of digitisation as a tool.

Can you give us a taster of what’s to come for the autumn/winter 23/24 season?

What we’re really thrilled about is our new No Cotton Corduroy, a very easy-to-care-for cord with zero cotton content, which I love wearing myself when I’m travelling. Our customers can also expect material innovations like thermal trousers with high-tech fabrics that really do warm you up when you move, or great jeans models that are requiring less and less water in their production thanks to laser technology. This is the direction we are developing in. It will be a great, wellbalanced collection with lots of surprises as far as the materials are concerned.

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alb

marco Lanowy, managing Director

Credit: Thomas Hoeffgen

Credit: Thomas Hoeffgen

aS R aRE aS HEN’S TEETH

Everything you need to be well dressed should fit into a small bag. With this in mind, the label Hen’s Teeth makes the ultimate wardrobe essentials – entirely by hand.

TE x T: JEnnI kOuTnI

A pair of jeans, a T-shirt, a sweatshirt, socks and a bandana – those are the essentials that, according to Davide Biondi, no man’s wardrobe should be without. Now imagine these laidback menswear icons all stowed away in a bag that you can attach to your motorbike and you have the essence of Biondi’s label Hen’s Teeth, which combines the things that have inspired him since childhood: clothes, design and motorbiking. Back in the day, it was his dad’s old jeans, worn in from working on the land, which brought Biondi into contact with the value of robust craftsmanship. The beauty of clothing that bears the marks of its wearer and ages in dignity began to fascinate the young Italian from an early age. During his school years, Biondi had already begun collecting jeans and studying the way they are put together. After completing his art studies at the Accademia di Belle Arti in Bologna and then working an artist in California, it was finally time to return to his homeland, Italy. Biondi started working for a leading clothing company there but couldn’t get his idea of a perfect little collection of basics out of his head. He went into production, but initially only for himself. This was the birth of his ‘Man Kit’, which he still sells to this day.

While, for many brands, the term ‘handmade’ has since been reduced to a meaningless marketing slogan, Biondi takes things literally: everything is produced in the smallest batches and every single piece is unique. He has also added waistcoats, work shirts and beanies to the range. And thanks to dedicated female support, they now also offer a small collection for women. It’s due to this uncompromising commitment to handcraftsmanship that the name Hen’s Teeth came about. The saying ‘As rare as hen’s teeth’ originated in 19th century America, referring to an object that is so rare that it basically doesn’t exist. Because, as we all know, chickens don’t actually have teeth. “I chose the name because my brand is and will remain tailored down to the smallest detail, impossible to make in series,” explains Biondi. “I like to be the last instance when it comes to my products: I take the garment from the hands of the last woman who worked on it and look at it until I’m exhausted! I snip off the last remaining threads, hammer the rivets in by hand, write the size, stamp the tags and fold the product so it’s ready to be handed over to its new owner.”

Davide Biondi recently introduced his latest project at the beginning of January: a new underwear range that

celebrates the designer’s origins and goes one step further towards complete sustainability. “I live in the Italian region of Abruzzo, the most beautiful place in the world,” enthuses the Hen’s Teeth founder. “We are shepherds and farmers and I’m proud of that. Our wool comes from sheep born in the green mountains of the national park, where they grow up and graze. Every year they are led to higher altitudes (editor’s note: in a traditional seasonal movement of livestock known as transhumance) while being tended by dedicated shepherds. The result is a really special, strong, authentic wool that produces incredible yarn,” an enthusiastic Biondi tells us. For the new underwear collection, they have rediscovered old methods of weaving wool. The designer regularly visits the flocks of sheep that supply the particularly warming yarn and talks to the old woman who weaves the fabric on a traditional machine and sews them completely by hand. For Davide Biondi and surely for anyone who holds one of his designs in their hands, Hen’s Teeth symbolises a return to the very essence of clothing that endures all time.

HE nSTEETH IT

BACK TO THE CL aSSICS

Since 1920, Valsport has been synonymous with Italian craftsmanship and innovative shoe design. One of the first ever sports footwear labels is currently evolving into a leading fashion brand in the premium segment. But how is it managing this transition?

TE x T: franka SCHmID

Over a century ago, the 18-year-old Antonio Valle from Padua in northern Italy had a remarkable idea: to combine his passion for craftsmanship with entrepreneurial expertise and turn a small workshop into one of the most renowned sports footwear manufacturers in Italy. In the decades that followed, Valsport became well known all over the world. Footballers, boxers and even Formula One drivers swore by the quality of the lightweight, flexible Italian shoes. In 1960, track and field legend Livio Berruti won the gold medal for Italy at the Olympic Games in Rome, wearing, of course, spiked shoes by Valsport. With the European enthusiasm for football, the brand’s success grew and it went on to supply the most famous players in Italy with football boots before becoming the sponsor of renowned clubs like AC Milan and FC Juventus. Over the past few decades, the shoes with the orange arrow have become a symbol of sporting success and Italian craftsmanship. Yet Valsport increasingly found itself struggling in competition with the global sports brands. In 2016 the Valle family decided to sell part of the company and took the opportunity go in a completely new direction – switching from the sports segment to premium fashion. “Valsport continues to preserve its 100-year-old tradition as a producer of sports footwear. They do this by manufacturing their shoes by

hand in Italy with premium-quality materials and components, without ever neglecting the technical, aesthetic and fashionable aspects,” says Uwe Maier from Amtraq Distribition, who is responsible for the distribution of the label on the D/A/CH market.

Around six years ago, Rewind Srl from Padua took over the brand and the company is now breathing new life into Valsport’s iconic models including its bestsellers ‘Tournament’, ‘Olimpia’ and ‘Davis’. “Tournament was one of the first shoe models that Valsport produced: a classic tennis shoe style in white nappa with coloured accents and a pronounced 70s vibe […]. The success of iconic models from the archives of other manufacturers has proven that, in these times of digital dominance, consumers are wanting to return to classics from analogue times,” says Maier. Nevertheless, new models are continually being added to the portfolio – with new designs, but the same high quality and production standards. Valsport has both a significant past and a promising future. While maintaining the sophistication that distinguished the brand in the last century, the company still focuses on technological innovation and modern design to this day. They still have their collections made at small Italian workshops, using materials that are produced exclusively in Italy. Valsport continues to

set its sights on an increasingly younger target group. For the 2023 winter season, the brand is surprising us with the ‘Magic’ models as a unisex running shoe in new colour combinations. There will also be a range of clothing including sweats, hoodies and trousers in cotton jersey and knit. Valsport’s designs exude modern retro charm, without losing their handcrafted ‘soul’.

In Italy, they currently supply more than 350 fashion stores. “And not a single one of them is a sports shoe retailer or a footwear chain. Being stocked by leading fashion stores, selected online retailers and major streetwear stores is part of the sales strategy for 2023,” Maier tells us optimistically. In times of economic instability, we are seeing a shift towards tried-and-tested classics and therefore towards tradition and quality. These two values give consumers a sense of security and establish confidence. To counteract the ‘bigger, better, stronger’ mantra, Valsport is focusing on its core expertise of quality and proving once again that perseverance and focus will help you breeze over the finish line. The new Valsport collection will be presented for the first time from 15 January at the Union Showroom at Luckenwalder Str. 3 in Berlin.

a COmPaSS fOr mEnSWEar

PITTI uOmO – “For us, the year 2023 will begin with the 103rd edition of Pitti Uomo. We have arrived in what people are calling the new normal and look forward to welcoming just under 800 exhibitors, 40 percent of whom come from abroad,” sums up Lapo Cianchi, Communication & Special Events Director of Pitti Immagine, adding: “With Martine Rose as our Guest Designer and Jan-Jan van Essche as our Designer Project, on 11 and 12 January we will be showing two very special collections that fit in very well with the show’s spirit.” With the winter theme ‘Pitti Ways’, the organisers are emphasising the pioneering character of the Pitti Immagine tradeshows. And as Lapo Cianchi confirms: “Pitti Uomo is making impressive strides: we have extended the line-up as well as the halls. ‘I Go Out’, the area dedicated to the world of experimental outdoor clothing, is also back. Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude and Superstyling as well as the Sustainable Style area, have all been reconfirmed. And there will also be two brand new special exhibition areas ‘Pittipets’ and ‘the Sign’, which Pitti Uomo will extend and enhance with new content.” So there’s certainly a lot to look forward to as the new fashion year begins. /cm

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BIrTHDay BaSH In BErLIn

PrEmI um – It’s time to pop the corks as January is going to be a special month for the show’s organisers, exhibitors and visitors. From 17-19 January 2023, the Premium Group is returning to Berlin with its tradeshow formats and will once again host its events during Berlin Fashion Week – on top of all that, they also happen to be celebrating their 20-year anniversary, so it goes without saying that there are a number of highlights planned. They also have a few new partnerships in the works, including with 202030 – The Berlin Fashion Summit and the Fashion Council Germany, not to mention the Conscious Club and Yonnaverse Conference formats.

“We’re delighted to be presenting some amazingly talented designers from Ukraine at Premium this January,” explains Anita Tillmann, Managing Director of the Premium Group. “Many of the exhibiting brands used to show their collections at Ukrainian Fashion Week and fit perfectly into the Premium Group’s brand portfolio. Most of the Ukrainian brands were founded by women who are happen to be celebrating, passion and bravery and want to carry on showcasing their fashion, which is as unique and versatile as the designers themselves. Many of the collections were designed with consideration for the environment or inspired by Ukrainian culture, but new innovations like AR clothing will also be making an appearance.” Cheers to another 20 years! /cm

PrEmI um.faSHIO n SEE k.faSHIO n

Credit: @Imaxtree

COmInG TOGETHEr In DüSSELDOrf

nEO ny T & faSH n rOOmS – In August it was announced that Messe Frankfurt’s Neonyt tradeshow had found a new home in Düsseldorf, under the license of the recently renamed Igedo Exhibitions. From 28-30 January, the popular trade fair format for sustainable fashion is celebrating its Düsseldorf premiere at the Areal Böhler, as a direct neighbour of the Fashn Rooms event. The goal is to provide concentrated fashion expertise on the main ordering dates for the fashion and textiles sector in Germany’s top ordering location. With ‘two tradeshows, two concepts, two halls’, Igedo Exhibitions is bringing together the fashion industry and directing its attention to fashion, trends and sustainable fashion in the state capital of North Rhine-Westphalia by the River Rhine. Holding the two stand-alone shows as a parallel B2B event at the Areal Böhler offers a whole host of synergies. Professional visitors and buyers can easily visit both formats thanks to the combined ticket. Not only will that result in short distances for inspiration and networking, but also provides the ideal setting in which to do business and place orders. “We aim to offer a fruitful ground for all parties and create a win-win situation. In doing so, we don’t see ourselves as a standard tradeshow organiser, but rather in the role of good hosts who bring people together and enable a cross fertilisation of ideas,” explains Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director of Igedo Exhibitions. Forming a link between the two independent events is the central conference format ‘The Stage’, which will be used by both shows. Fashionsustain, is Neonyt’s well-known multidisciplinary best-practice format, focuses on current and relevant sustainability topics from the Neonyt community in alternation with the seminars and trend lectures of Fashn Rooms. Meanwhile, the new ‘Knowledge Area’ offers all visitors the opportunity to expand their knowledge of sustainability topics and enjoy a spot of networking. /cm

FaSHN - ROOMS COM NEON y T- Du ESSE lDORF COM

bIg lINE-uP aND rESCHEDuLInG Of DaTES

mun

ICH

fa

BrIC

S TarT – From 24-26 January 2023, the Munich Order Center (or MOC) venue will be opening its doors to an international audience from the textile and fashion industry for the 51st edition of Munich Fabric Start, as well as Bluezone and Keyhouse from 24-25 January in the Zenith Hall. So far (at the time of writing), 800 exhibitors have confirmed that they’ll be presenting their colour and fabric trends to professional visitors over the two or three days. In terms of the line-up, the coming edition also promises a whole host of special events in the form of showcases, experiences, trend info events and panels. The organisers will also be presenting a new concept, ‘The Source Studio’, at the MOC. Another change will be affecting the upcoming summer 2023 editions of Munich Fabric Start (MFS), Bluezone, Keyhouse and The Source: they have all been rescheduled to take place six weeks earlier than usual, in the second half of July rather than at the end of August. “With the solution we have now found, we are confident that we’ll be able to provide answers to the most pressing issues facing the industry. These scheduling adjustments and diversification offer all our exhibitors a wide variety of opportunities to react in a targeted way to the new needs and changes in the market,” says Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start, explaining the decision. Munich Fabric Start will therefore be taking place from Tuesday, 18 July until Thursday, 20 July 2023. The location will remain the MOC Munich. Bluezone, Keyhouse and The Source on the Zenith grounds will be held as two-day events (18 and 19 July 2023). /dt

mun ICH fa BrICSTarT COm BLu E zO n E SHOW

InnOVaTIVE, InDIVIDuaLISTIC aND FORWaRD-THINkINg

IL m – The upcoming edition of ILM at the beginning of February 2023 is not only happening earlier than usual but, in addition to a wide range of exhibitors, will also feature a trendsetting and forward-thinking line-up of accompanying events that will underline the tradeshow’s individuality and innovativeness. The 157th edition of ILM will be held in Offenbach from 4-6 February 2023 – four weeks earlier than usual. With this decision, the organisers are making a clear statement, as Arnd Hinrich Kappe, Managing Director of Messe Offenbach, explains: “ILM offers what the industry wants and, above all, needs. Our advantage is that we are flexible and can respond to the requirements and wishes of our brands and visitors at any time, even at short notice.”

The team behind the trade fair, which is almost fully booked, is looking forward to the upcoming event with plenty of motivation and a varied line-up of accompanying events. In addition to a series of lectures, trend previews and an afterwork party, visitors can also look forward to talks and expert analyses.

A special collaboration between Arnd Hinrich Kappe, buying groups Sabu and Assima hoch 2 GmbH and industry expert Günter Althaus will provide exclusive insights into the retail concepts of the future. Under the spotlight here are the C4BB (Center for Bags and Brands) platform and the ‘Cool Hunter’ initiative, a research project in which students from the University of Applied Sciences Baden-Württemberg took a closer look at 15 cities to explore how modern retail works today and how it can work in the future. The solutions and results will be presented at ILM. Another new aspect of the fair is that, instead of the runway show, the latest brand collections will now be presented by individual models within the exhibition halls. /dt

JOurnEy TO CarBOn nEuTraLITy

PE rfO rman CE DayS – In November 2022, Performance Days showcased functional fabrics and sporty fashion made of exclusively sustainable materials and fabrics at the MOC Ordercenter in Munich for the first time – and it was a resounding success, which the organisers are keen to reprise on 15 and 16 March 2023. Its sustainability focus with key themes such as transparency in production, supply chains and CO2 is highly topical. “People are consuming less and opting for more durable, circular products that can be repaired,” explains Marco Weichert, founder and Managing Director of Performance Days. “For years now we have been providing inspiration on new, alternative materials and helping fabric manufacturers and brands with the development of circular monomaterials. In March 2023, we’ll be putting the spotlight on the topic ‘Our Journey to Carbon Neutrality – Create, Align, Compare’, as well as showcasing our curated fabrics in the Performance Forum and the free line-up of expert talks.” Until then, The Loop is available as a digital sourcing platform. Here, online visitors can find inspiration in the Marketplace with over 19,000 products, which can be ordered as free samples. The newly launched icons such as ‘CO2 reduced’, ‘CO2 neutral’, ‘circular product’, ‘mono component’, ‘natural fibres’, ‘recycled’ and ‘biodegradable’ will help users to identify sustainable products. All of the talks from previous tradeshows are also available to watch on demand. /cm

PE rfO rman CEDayS COm

À BIEnTôT

Pr E mI èr E V ISIO n Par IS – Denim Première Vision celebrated its Berlin debut at Arena Berlin in May 2022. But before returning to the German capital in summer 2023, the tradeshow celebrated its 15th anniversary in Milan in November. And from 7-9 February, Première Vision will be taking place in Paris. With 1,200 exhibitors from 44 countries, PV is presenting an improved offer that will make it easier to share inspiration, exchange ideas and showcase the new ready-to-wear, accessories (fashion jewellery, leather goods) and shoes collections for the spring/summer 2024 season. As well as its targeted offers, this edition will reflect the organiser’s renewed commitment to responding to the new requirements of the market and supporting its ecological and social transformation. This includes making the fair even more informative for professional visitors, as well as developing specific solutions for sustainable procurement and production. All in all, it looks set to be a highly promising event with a whole host of new additions and innovations in all areas, covering everything from the offer and inspiring contents to the services and event line-up. And as for Berlin, Fabio Adami Dalla Val, Denim PV Director, assures us: “The success of the first Berlin edition confirmed our choice to explore the German market, which is one of the most important in Europe for the denim industry. Reconfirming Arena Berlin for May 2023 was an easy and natural choice as Berlin is an incredible hotspot for the fashion industry.“ /cm

PrEmIE rEVISIO n.COm

...BeLongs to m aria chiara teza

CO -FOUNDER OF THINK INC. COMMUNICATIONS

InTErVIEW: CHEryLL müHLEn

What is it that still fascinates you about your job?

The variety of it and the people behind the brands. For the past 20 years, every day has brought something different. There’s always something new and exciting happening! Because we’re thinking one season ahead, especially in the fashion world, we always have our fingers on the pulse and have a good feel for trends and movements.

What would you have ended up doing if you hadn’t founded Think Inc. together with Holger Petermann?

I’ve never actually thought about that before! I see it as a lucky twist of fate. It’s such a gift to run the agency with my two partners Holger Petermann and Cornelius Drabarczyk vel Grabarczyk. Each of us contribute our particular strengths and together we’re unbeatable. That’s why our motto has always been: 1+1=3.

What does it mean for you to run a successful Pr agency?

In times where there is a shortage of skilled workers, a good, professional and loyal team is the key to success. It’s becoming increasingly important to cater to employees’ needs too. Flexibility, diversity and work-life balance are all becoming more of a priority. I am eternally grateful to have such a great team around me.

How have the work and job profile of PR agencies changed over the past five years and what direction do you see your profession taking in the near future?

There are so many more communication channels around now. When we became active on social media at the end of 2011 and started talking to influencers and developing digital concepts, some of our colleagues in the industry laughed at us and wondered what we were doing. We always knew that this channel has so much potential and also plays an important role in brand communication.

To be successful these days, you have to be active on many channels at the same time if you want to be heard. Each channel is different and requires its own type of content. That takes up a lot of time and know-how, but it’s so rewarding in the end. For the future, I see us continuing to be masters of

maria Chiara Teza

communication, but on even more channels and in even more different ways. Brands want to tell their story and win over customers. For that, we need our industry to find the best way.

What developments in the fashion business interest you most?

I’m currently just enjoying the fact that things are becoming more focused again. There is also a clear return to quality. Products that are more durable and reflect the demand for more sustainability are at the focus right now. Statement pieces are important and a good way of complementing people’s existing wardrobes.

With Think Inc. you created an entirely new type of digital Press Days and established a virtual space in the gaming style of the 1990s – a success that went into its second round at the beginning of 2022. What mindset do you need to be able to think out of the box in that way and then go ahead and actually turn it into reality? a nd are you already planning your next coup?

Petra Stadler

it light. In terms of our virtual showroom, we were also the first to create that kind of project, which simply makes the stylists’ jobs easier. Especially in these volatile times, it’s important to be open. I think you just have to experiment and stay curious. Caution and fear aren’t good advisers. We are lucky to always be able to inspire our clients. It’s always exciting and we’re working on some really visionary concepts. But I’m a bit superstitious –I don’t like to count my chickens before they’ve hatched.

What is a must in modern-day leadership in your opinion?

It all comes down to professionalism, reliability and quality. Apart from that, I’m a big fan of flexibility and I like to discover potential in others, regardless of the person’s position in the organisation. Another really important factor is simply remaining open and curious and not getting in the way of new trends.

What advice would you like to give your younger self?

It feels great to be able to say that I wouldn’t actually change a thing! I think a good piece of advice is to dream big and be willing to take risks, but keep your feet on the ground and respect the past.

What are the top pieces of advice you always give your clients? Without revealing any trade secrets, of course!

Be authentic and have respect for the people you want to reach – trust us to get on with the job. If you take that to heart, you can only win. After all, our reputation is based on our clients’ success and satisfaction.

The past few years have been dominated by highs and lows, new ideas and high demands on our flexibility. a nd 2023 is set to bring more of the same. Dystopian visions and bad news aside, what are you most looking forward to next year?

Yes, we really were the first to organise Press Days digitally and, in a very uncertain time, we approached the whole thing quite playfully, keeping

I’d just like to be able to continue our success! In these challenging times, we simply have to be grateful for being allowed to do the best job in the world.

THI nk I n C.DE

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GOOD VIBES AUF DER SHOES DÜSSELDORF

Good mood. Good climate. Düsseldorf is the home of the shoe world At SHOES DÜSSELDORF in the Böhler area, the Who‘s Who of the industry meets

The strong presence of German and international brands reflects the high desirability of SHOES DÜSSELDORF

The appealingly curated range of products and the open, pleasant working atmosphere at Areal Böhler are well recei ved by exhibitor s and visitor s alik e.

Also in focus at SHOES DÜSSELDORF: the topic of sustainability with all its facets, from production and product to presentation at the POS. The fir st-class supporting program offer s numerous ideas for ordering, as well as plenty of inspiration for thinking outside the box.

Dates and opening hour s 05-06 March 2023 9.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. 07 March 2023 9.30 a.m. to 3.00 p.m.

S E E & O R D E R A R E A L B Ö H L E R S H O E S - D U E S S E L D O R F. C O M