J'N'C 02/2022

JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION

N° 84 / 2–2022

DENIM TRENDS

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17 – 19 JANUARY 2023 BERLIN

28–30/01/2023 Areal Böhler Düsseldorf

NEONYT goes Düsseldorf Premiere in January: NEONYT licensed by Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH comes to Düsseldorf and the Igedo Company takes over the complete operational implementation and planning.

Twice a year, the popular B2B event will take place at Areal Böhler and bring fashion, sustainability, and innovation to the German fashion metropolis.

Düsseldorf is and remains the order location for the fashion and shoe business in Germany and enjoys an international reputation. The popular fashion metropolis on the Rhine is not only existentially important as a business location, but also scores with short distances and concentrated ordering possibilities. The imposing industrial backdrop of the Böhler site, where the event will take place, inspires Europe‘s fashion people. The industrial site has meanwhile matured into a highly authentic event location with contemporary industrial charm that is unique in Germany. In the future, NEONYT will take place at the same time as FASHN ROOMS and thus together in the fashion metropolis of Düsseldorf.

Thus, the event fits wonderfully into a successful mix of international brands.

The strictly sustainable assortment finds a new home next to the FASHN ROOMS segments Agencies and Premium Brands (Showroom Concept), Contemporary and Design as well as Accessories and Shoes.

FASHN ROOMS is also known for its content creator offer. This is also in line with NEONYT‘s community DNA and brings with it exciting multiplication potential.

In Düsseldorf, too, NEONYT licensed

by Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH will position itself with a consistently sustainable agenda and push the transformation towards a modern, resource-efficient industry. All exhibitors are subject to a strict sustainability check, which is a prerequisite for

SEE & ORDER AREAL BÖHLER DÜSSELDORF FASHN-ROOMS.COM

participation in the event in addition to the fashionable curation. Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director at Igedo Company, is excited about the new challenge: „Of course, we are also delighted to be able to intensively accompany and support the next step in the development of NEONYT,“ she tells us. „Even with a new home base in Düsseldorf, it is important to continue to drive sustainability forward together and to set impulses for an attitude change among the general public.

At the same time, this also means an additional strengthening of Düsseldorf as a fashion location and shows the undisputed esteem in which the Igedo

January 2023 28|29|30

Company is held in the industry, even in its 73rd year of existence. Now it‘s time to roll up our sleeves and work together with all our power to achieve our next goals here in Düsseldorf at Areal Böhler.

Showroom Concept 26|27|28|29|30

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EDITORIAL Are you already jaded to it all? Or just purposely blocking it all out? But at what point does ignorance start and caring stop?

It’s difficult not to feel affected by everything that’s going on at the moment.

And, amid the tidal wave of inhumanity and absurdity washing over us, it’s proving a huge challenge to get our own thoughts straight and turn them into something constructive.

But choosing not to broach the current geo-political and social situation would be like turning our backs on someone who needs help. So you can take our word for it when we tell you that we are all too conscious of the fact that the world around us seems to be burning as we created this issue. But perhaps we can start by putting out smaller fires elsewhere. Which is why I want to use this opportunity and the privilege of this platform to appeal to all of you to find your voice and speak up about the things that matter. Because in this part of the world, we do have a voice and most of us can use it without fear of danger. Let’s all start speaking up and making a difference! Believing that the issues happening elsewhere don’t affect us is a mistake that has been made all too often in the past – and at great cost.

Which is why I’m not even going to attempt to find a smooth transition to what we have in store for you this time. Instead, I’d like to simply welcome you to this year’s second edition of J’N’C Magazine.

Once again, it’s my pleasure to invite you into our community and present our pick of fascinating stories, inspiring talents and encouraging trends.

As always, we’re in denim fever and this time we’re dedicating our attention to the art and craftsmanship of this unique textile – quite literally. In our fashion editorial entitled ‘Artwork’, we are interpreting the rich history of denim and reminding ourselves of its origins as a workwear fabric for the common people. The inspiration for this came from the book ‘Le Maître de la Toile de Jeans’ by François Girbaud, which highlights just how far back denim’s legacy goes and why this fabric is still accessible to everyone today. And it is precisely this accessibility in fashion that gives our supposedly superficial industry its depth, so we shouldn’t shy away from delving deeper and finding out what opportunities and potential still lie ahead.

I hope that this latest issue once again provides you with some valuable food for thought and that you enjoy reading what we have to say. We look forward to meeting the rest of the industry in person over the next few weeks. Let’s come together and make the world a better and safer place.

Cheryll Mühlen & team

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CONTENTS 14

54

BITS & PIECES

16 LABELS TO WATCH

Gerrit Jacob, Bobkova, Malune, Dhruv Kapoor, Reternity 18

MOST WANTED

24 ESSAY

IMAGINE A WORLD …

Patagonia Founder Yvon Chouinard 26 INTERVIEW

Peppino Peppino

34

30 BRAND FEATURE

Komet Metal 34 INTERVIEWS

Manifattura Ceccarelli, Menabò Group,Fortela 44 BRAND FEATURE

Cotton Candy 45 INTERVIEW

Alberto 46 BRAND FEATURE

AlphaTauri 48 INTERVIEW

Garcia, Decent Store, Union Fade Store COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSICA GROSSMANN OUTFIT: DIESEL, KARL LAGERFELD, FADE OUT LABEL, WRANGLER X GANT, & OTHER STORIES

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54 COVER SHOOT

ARTWORK

64 DENIM TRENDS SS 24/25

Orta, Isko, Çalik Denim, Officina+39, Advance Denim, Maritas˛ Denim, Iskur Denim, Bossa 72 ESSAY

FASHION CHANGERS

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

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Munich Fabric Start, Performance Days, Denim Première Vision, Premium, Neonyt & Fashn Rooms 82

PUBLISHER EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

PUBLISHING MANAGEMENT Nikola Köster, Kathrin Wimber

Liesegangstraße 17 40215 Düsseldorf Germany

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pierre D’Aveta

Tel. +49 (0)211 830 30 Fax +49 (0)211 830 32 00

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info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Cheryll Mühlen c.muehlen@jnc-net.de ART DIRECTION vista www.studiovista.de

EDITORS Cynthia Blasberg, Jenni Koutni, Franka Schmid, Deniz Trosdorff, Kristin Walzel COPY EDITOR Paula Hedley PHOTOGRAPHY Markus Bronold, Markus Keck, Valentin Mühl TRANSLATION Galina Green, Paula Hedley Trend Translations www.trendtranslations.de

O PINION PIECE

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de BANK DETAILS Commerzbank AG IBAN DE70 3008 0000 02127 829 00 SWIFT DRESDEFF300 PRICE Germany 15.50 EUR Rest of Europe 17.50 EUR Switzerland 20.00 CHF PRINT Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern

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We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, contents, clothing or products.

The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business is Düsseldorf and the place of jurisdiction is Munich in all cases.

BITS & PIECES

ARCHITECTURAL FINESSE CLOSED For its summer 2023 collection, the fashion label has drawn inspiration from two extraordinary artists: the tarred black silhouette of Prospect Cottage – the house of film-maker and activist Derek Jarman – and the varied mix of fabrics used by American textile sculptor Judith Scott. For its women’s collection, Closed is focusing its attention on lightweight, summery looks with blue as the dominant colour. Wide-cut trousers with slim-fit tops and utility details are also playing a key role.

Slim-fit ribbed dresses and casual colour-block cardigans are a nod to the work of Judith Scott. The second part of the summer collection consists of satin-viscose coordinates in golden cinnamon, as well as sweatshirts, trousers with a slight flare, skinny tops and jeans in pale-blue washes. Wider, more relaxed styles are prevailing in the men’s collection for summer 2023. The label has also opted for lightness when it comes to the fabrics: for the coming collection, cotton is the main player with naturally woven surfaces. Formal aspects like stripes on shirts, trousers and blazers are celebrating a comeback. When it comes to the denim styles, rinse-washed and light selvedge denims in laid-back chino fits underline the look of the collection.

CLOSED.COM

EFFORTLESS ACTIVISM

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BRAVE NEW WORLD INUIKII For summer 2023, the brand is staying true to its creative DNA and adding further braiding, knitted and crochet details to its repertoire. Under the motto ’Connecting old and new worlds’, Inuikii wants to further develop its original summer collection.

One of the highlights of the women’s collection are the summer loafers. A new model in the Inuikii family is the Sabot Venezia, which takes its inspiration from clogs. It is available in colours including chestnut, green, pink, beige, blue, yellow and purple.

Two new models stand out in the upcoming women’s sneaker collection: the Matilda Leather, which comes in lots of new colours such as sand, blue, pink or black, as well as the Lace Up sneaker with a new leather tongue and the new Inuikii logo. Practical sliders are at the focus for the men’s collection: with a new sole and trend fabric nylon in a military look or black and white. Their sneaker models have also been further developed for summer 2023 and now come in a range of new colours and materials.

INUIKII.COM

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ARMEDANGELS Following the ‘less is more’ principle, the label’s SS23 collection is bringing together modern silhouettes, high-quality materials, fresh colours and all-over prints. A key look here is sweat and jersey styles such as sporty and modern hoodies, long-sleeved tops, trousers and feminine dresses. They come in recycled materials and 90sinspired stripe designs. With new fits and innovative materials, the brand is also upping its denim game this coming season. For the first time, Armedangels is presenting denim styles made of 100 percent recycled cotton, with 80 percent pre-consumer and 20 percent post-consumer materials. The new denim collection also impresses with its details and varied colour palette. The coming summer collection features styles like slim, mom, long flared, baggy, low rise and loose fits. Throughout the collection, the colours range from natural hues to black and white combinations and muted tones.

Armedangels is also adding trench coats and field jackets to its outerwear range.

ARMEDANGELS.COM

CLEAN JEANS KINGS OF INDIGO The Dutch denim brand is presenting new collection highlights and sustainable innovations for summer 2023. With their new Clean Jeans, the label has developed a range of denim jeans made completely from recycled materials that can be fully recycled once again at the end of their life cycle. K.O.I has also added 35 styles to its classic jeans collection Royal Core. The collection is made from 100 percent plant-based materials: 32 percent of which is recycled cotton and 20 percent recycled post-consumer cotton.

As well as organic cotton, the brand also uses hemp and linen for its collections. No pesticides or chemicals are used and the materials are fully biodegradable and have regenerative properties. The brand is also focusing on sustainable innovations for the washes of its denim pieces, using the shibori technique. Before being immersed in the indigo dyebath, the clean, undyed material is hand folded and tied before being dip-dyed in natural indigo, resulting in unique tie-dye patterns. And with the Retraced technology, Kings of Indigo is also giving its customers a comprehensive overview of how each product is made. Thanks to this technology, every step in the supply chain can be traced.

KINGSOFINDIGO.COM

DAYDREAM BY MAC Sensual femininity, comfort, modernity and glamour are the core elements of the coming spring/summer 2023 collection. “Vibrant colours, psychedelic patterned designs and a simple approach to volume and silhouettes reflect a new freedom and the return to carefree joie de vivre,” says Katerina Grigoriadis, Head of Design at Daydream. Sustainability remains a top priority: only sustainable materials are being used to make the styles, such as Econyl, compostable nylon, recycled polyester, FSC-certified viscose, recycled elastane and recycled and re-used cotton. The silhouette is long and ranges from straight to bootcut and wide leg. And the trend for leggings and stirrup trousers with a clean design statement is continuing. Mac is once again using the high-quality Italian fabrics from Candiani for its new collection. Here the focus is on GOTS-certified materials, sustainable dying and washing methods, resourcesaving techniques and the use of renewable raw materials such as Tencel, organic cotton and recycled elastane. At the focus of the denim collection are extra-long straight cuts, wide cuts and bootcuts.

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CAREFREE ELEGANCE

MAC-JEANS.COM

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LABELS TO WATCH

LABELS TO WATCH TEXT KRISTIN WALZEL

FASHION FOR FREEDOM BOBKOVA This Ukrainian label was founded in 2000 by designer Kristina Bobkova, who presented her first fashion collection back in 1998. The new collection for spring/summer 2023 is defined by the freedom of identity and traditional local Ukrainian craftsmanship. The overall style of the collection, which features skirt and trouser suits paired with oversized shirts and asymmetrical dresses in black and soft, neutral tones, could be described as architectonic minimalism blended with Japanese unisex tailoring. A unique touch is the use of open seams and visible stitching, a kind of homage to the handicraft of the brand’s Kiev atelier. For the accessories, Bobkova worked with handbag brand Chris Bader from the south of Germany, resulting in a capsule collection of sleek silhouettes. bobkova.com.ua

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MAKING A STATEMENT GERRIT JACOB With his sustainable fashion for women and men, the Berlin-based designer is making a political statement. After graduating with a BA degree in Womenswear and an MA in Menswear Design at Central Saint Martins, the designer initially landed a job as a tailoring designer at Gucci.

But in 2022, Jacob decided to launch his own eponymous brand called Gerrit Jacob. His debut collection, ‘A Secret Between Us’ features small luxury details that make an appearance in the collection in subtle, quirky ways. Pearls are used as buttons, for example, in combination with a silky jacket and trousers, and the airbrushed paintings on leather are inspired by paint-by-numbers kits. The collection was sustainably produced using materials such as deadstock leather, second-hand denim and organic cotton. gerritjacob.com

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LABELS TO WATCH

A YEARNING FOR THE SEA MALUNE The idea for this Berlin brand, which is mainly known for its silk dresses, came from a paradise beach resort in the Pacific. Designer Frida Weyer, who graduated from the ESMOD school of fashion in 2001 and went on to establish her own namesake couture label in 2009 in Berlin, is the brains behind Malune. “Malune combines all of my passions and is a reflection of my love for the world of beach and resortwear,” says the Berlin designer. The collection consists of dresses and kimonos, which, unlike the couture designs, are not glamorously embroidered, but adorned with painted prints designed by Frida Weyer herself. malune.com

LIBERT Y, VITALIT Y, ETERNIT Y DHRUV KAPOOR With creative director Dhruv Kapoor at the helm, the Indian fashion label presented its first collection in 2014. Ever since then, the label has represented genderless styles without limits. And ‘The Dreamer’, its new collection for spring/summer 2023, is certainly aimed at all those dreamers out there. Couture meets street styles, exuding a utilitarian but also feminine vibe. Among the highlights are tracksuits and dresses made of transparent mesh that are carefully made by hand. 40 percent of the collection’s fabrics are upcycled, using offcuts from Indian fabric manufacturers. In addition to the regular collection, there is also a limited edition of leather items made of fully upcycled leather. dhruvkapoor.com

RETERNITY This German label was established in 2018 by two friends who wanted to reflect their own personalities and lifestyles in their outfits. The brand is inspired by attention to detail and the feeling of freedom. Under the title ‘Dramatic Madness’, Reternity launched its first collection at the beginning of October 2022, which consists of 16 different looks. Their materials of choice are thick fabrics combined with heavy embroidery, zippers and patches. The ‘Dramatic Madness’ collection marks another step in the direction of luxury streetwear. All their items are made in Europe and available exclusively from Reternity.

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FASHION FOR FRIENDS

reternity.de

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MOST WANTED PHOTOGRAPHY VALENTIN MÜHL PRODUCTION CHERYLL MÜHLEN

SILK SCARF GANT X ST. VINCENT, 2022 With their collaboratively designed capsule, Gant and US musician and Grammy Award winner St. Vincent are taking us on a trip back to 1970s New York. Inspired by vintage rock and disco glamour, the collection includes this silk scarf, which features fragments of song lyrics from St. Vincent’s 2021 album ‘Daddy’s Home’.

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GANT.COM

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MOST WANTED

GORE-TEX HOODED DOWN COAT GOLDWIN, 2022 The performance of outerwear that was designed for the harshest winter weather is now being further enhanced by an elegant, reduced aesthetic that even looks the part in the urban jungle. Thanks to the use of GORE-TEX, the down is protected from moisture and still retains its puffy style. And thanks to the robust cotton-like outer material, the coat doesn’t feel bulky, despite the volume of the down feathers.

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EUSHOP.GOLDWIN-GLOBAL.COM

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MOST WANTED

SHADOW 5000 SAUCONY, 2022 When this model came on the market in the 1980s, the emphasis was almost exclusively on its performance.

Today, however, looks and comfort are every bit as important. So it’s a good job that the Shadow 5000 offers both these by the truckload. Performance at its best.

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SAUCONY.COM

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MOST WANTED CPH POUCH2 BIG, CPH POUCH2 MEDIUM & CPH54 COPENHAGEN STUDIOS, PRE-SPRING 2022/23 Form usually follows function – but in this case it’s more a case of ‘form follows colour’. The new bags from Copenhagen Studios make a really bold design statement with their clean-cut, minimalist and geometric designs, paired with striking contrasting colours and innovative, recycled materials.

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COPENHAGENSTUDIOS.COM

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MOST WANTED

VARSITY WOOL JACKET LES DEUX, 2022 This new take on the iconic Letterman jacket exudes nostalgia. As if the typical college-style lettering on the front isn’t Americana enough, the jacket also boasts the brand’s name on the back. Thanks to the material mix of wool and recycled polyester, this college jacket is also a real lightweight. A style that will continue to stand the test of time.

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LESDEUX.COM

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MOST WANTED

LEVEL APPLE-HEMP GRAND STEP SHOES, 2023 For more than 25 years, Grand Step has been synonymous with high-quality, ecological and comfortable footwear. For spring/summer 2023 the company has launched its Level Apple-Hemp sneaker made with plant-based leather alternative AppleSkin and hemp fabric accents. Not only are they vegan and cruelty-free, but also cause fewer emissions and require less energy. Definitely next level!

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GRANDSTEP.DE

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YVON CHOUINARD / BOTH PHOTOS CAMPBELL BREWER

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ESSAY — PATAGONIA FOUNDER YVON CHOUINARD

IMAGINE A WORLD…

YVON CHOUINARD / PHOTO TOM FROST

TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

er’s letter. After all, at the end of the day he is a successful entrepreneur who has spent the past 50 years shaping the strong brand we know today. Clever greenwashing or wellmeaning intentions? A closer look at the history of Chouinard and Patagonia shows that he may be a smart businessman, but he also has a history of continually applying his business acumen to protecting the environment – way before most other companies even started grappling with the topic, and certainly never to that extent.

AN ATTEMPT AT A CONCLUSION A smart marketing tool or a long-cherished dream? Maybe this is simply the wrong question to ask when it comes to the recent Patagonia revelations. Instead, maybe we should be asking why even more companies geared to profit aren’t doing the same? It certainly wouldn’t solve all the problems or the damage already done to the environment in one fell swoop, because a large portion of change needs to come from society at large and the measures put in place by governments. But using capital as a valuable tool to initiate radical changes that will sustainably and positively influence our world is an interesting and fruitful way to improve the situation while, at the same time, also questioning your own intentions. It’s a step that Patagonia has already taken, and which (hopefully) will also inspire others or, as Chouinard says: “It’s been a half-century since we began our experiment in responsible business. If we have any hope of a thriving planet 50 years from now, it demands all of us doing all we can with the resources we have.

As the business leader I never wanted to be, I am doing my part.

Instead of extracting value from nature and transforming it into wealth, we are using the wealth Patagonia creates to protect the source. We’re making Earth our only shareholder.

I am dead serious about saving this planet.”

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I

never wanted to be a businessman” reads the first line of Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard’s open letter on the brand’s website. It’s a strong introduction to the rest of the powerful message that follows. The news that Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard has decided to donate his multi-billion-dollar company, which he established 50 years ago, to non-profit foundations instead of taking it public, came as a bombshell to all industries and sectors. Patagonia is now a symbol of a profit-oriented company demonstrating that capitalism can also work in favour of our planet. The company from California, estimated by the New York Times to be worth around three billion US dollars, is currently anticipating an annual dividend of around 100 million dollars, which, instead of being paid out to shareholders, will be donated to organisations committed to preserving our planet. Many people are comparing Yvon Chouinard to a modern-day, ‘green’ Robin Hood. But others claim it’s just a clever marketing ploy by the company, despite the opening words of the Patagonia found-

ESSAY — PATAGONIA FOUNDER YVON CHOUINARD

In his natural habitat: Yvon Chouinard as a young man

... where all profit-making companies left their profits to not-for-profit organisations. What might sound rather utopian at first has now become a reality thanks to outdoor brand Patagonia, who are concentrating on preserving our planet rather than filling their own coffers.

Could this move be ushering in a new and better era?

PATAGONIA.COM

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INTERVIEW — PEPPINO PEPPINO

INTERVIEW — PEPPINO PEPPINO

NOT YOUR AVERAGE DENIM BRAND INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN WITH PIERRE D’AVETA PHOTOS CRISTIAN MURRIANI

Having launched in 2019 as a niche brand, Peppino Peppino represents not only vintage-inspired denim but also authentic jeans with a flattering silhouette.

Non-conventional and non-traditional, founded by a woman.

Simona Testucci already had more than 20 years of experience in the denim business under her belt before launching her own brand. That requires courage, good instincts and perhaps also a good partner by your side, which she found in Alessio Berto, founder of The Tailor Pattern Support. Alessio Berto sees his role more as one of an “external collaborator with a special love for her and for the brand”. He supports Simona Testucci mainly with his expertise in cutting patterns and even refers to his own archives for the odd idea or two. Combining Alessio’s craftsmanship with Simona’s design ideas, they transform their vision into the perfect-fitting jeans, drawing their inspiration from both workwear and vintage pieces. Both of them emphasise that their collections are much more than simply replicas from bygone days. They aren’t mere historical recreations, but very much rooted in the past. We caught up with the two denim creatives for a chat in Veneto, Italy.

You mentioned the silhouette, but what is a typical Peppino Peppino silhouette?

Simona: I don’t want to say oversized per se, because I don’t think it’s simply about being oversized. We just offer volumes that are unconventional and untraditional for a denim brand.

We’ve also started to use other fabrics, but our DNA is and will always be denim.

Alessio: First, we don’t follow any trends or demands from the market. We begin with what Simona feels inspired by and then brainstorm that. The interesting thing about our silhouettes is

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PHOTO: PEPPINO PEPPINO

Conformity isn’t really your thing. What makes you and your brand stand out from all the other denim brands out there?

Simona: What makes Peppino Peppino stand out from other brands is very simple: we offer a product that is very different from what the other brands are currently offering – especially in terms of silhouettes and details. What Alessio and I have been offering, since the first season, is something unique and distinctive. Alessio always says that our product speaks for itself, and it really does. Just before you arrived, a customer told us that she’s had people approach her on the street saying, “Oh, you’re wearing Peppino Peppino”. Our jeans are easily recognisable because they have a specific signature look. For us this is a huge achievement.

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INTERVIEW — PEPPINO PEPPINO

We call it an intelligent choice. that we started out using male patterns that result in fits that suit everybody. I come from a fashion and tailoring background and like to use different kinds of finishings, which are easy to do from a production point of view, but change the product, making it more curated and attractive.

A good pair of jeans starts with a good pattern.

Simona: Definitely.

Alessio: In the past, the designer was the most important person, the pattern maker was always the second. Pattern makers have been forgotten but now companies are starting to understand how important they are and want them back. Unfortunately, we lost a whole generation of pattern makers in the process. And those who make patterns today are not pattern makers, but operational employees of the companies. They take a block from a garment and modify it to another. That’s not pattern making, it’s just playing with a pattern.

Simona: I fully agree with what Alessio said. In my experience, companies give more importance to designers who, don’t get me wrong, are still very important. However, you can have a wonderful design, but if you try on the garment and it doesn’t fit well, then it’s just not going to sell well.

Alessio: If you’re spending 20 euros, okay. But if you spend 250, then yes, you want to have something that fits perfectly.

Peppino Peppino doesn’t have a global supply chain, but works with localised, close partners. That means you source everything from Italy, which other companies would already highlight as being sustainable in their marketing materials.

Alessio: We’re trying to do our best, because I think – and I was the first one who said this – sustainability in fashion is not possible. There is certainly awareness and responsibility, but you can’t use organic cotton and then dye it with hydrosulphites and call it sustainable. We all want to be well dressed and we should produce great garments, great fits with good-quality fabrics. That’s our job. If we can be more responsible while doing that, then better. That’s why most of our washes are chemical free. Next season we will be using laser technology so we will be even more responsible. We call it an intelligent choice. If you want to use the word sustainable, you can.

Don’t you like the word sustainable?

Simona: We prefer responsible. For us, PeppinoPeppino is a responsible brand, also in the way we make timeless and everlasting products that get better with everyday use.

Alessio: Because the word ‘sustainable’ has become a bit of an empty marketing buzzword. So I prefer to talk about an intelligent and responsible choice of materials and washing techniques.

At your small production facility, you produce just enough to meet demand. And if there’s more demand, you can produce more, which is actually a really sustainable approach.

Do you have other commitments to sustainable production?

Simona: We don’t produce high quantities – we produce “just enough” to survive because we are a small operational business.

And to be fair, we don’t want to become a global brand. We are not interested in that. Having everything concentrated in Veneto also helps because we don’t have to move materials around the world. That’s another way of being responsible.

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Let’s be honest: the denim industry is still very male dominated, even though women rule the market. Were you aware that you’re one of the few female founders of an authentic denim brand?

Simona: If you thalk about authenticity in terms of selvedge denim and checked shirts, I agree with you. But I do believe, when it comes to more fashionable denim brands, there are quite a few companies owned by women. Not to mention famous denim influencers such as Kelly Harrington or Amy Leverton.

PHOTO PEPPINO PEPPINO

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Simona, you said that you eventually found the courage to start your own brand after being in the industry for over two decades. What gave you the final push to overcome your fears and why did you decide to build your own brand?

Simona: It just happened. I don’t want to say it happened by chance, but I think when you know it’s time, you just know.

It’s like when you get married or decide to have a child. Especially when you’re embarking on something as difficult as starting your own brand, you must make sure to have enough experience. And even though I’ve been working in the fashion industry for 20 years, there are still a lot of things I don’t know, and I am learning day by day in the field. I met Alessio through a common friend, and then one thing led to another. In 2018 we made the first set of patterns and presented the first Peppino Peppino capsule in 2019 at Pitti Uomo. Since then, it’s been a bit of a rollercoaster ride, because you can have as much experience as you want, like I said, but when you have your own brand, it is a completely different thing.

INTERVIEW — PEPPINO PEPPINO

Simona, your personal look has a strong influence on your collections. To what extent has the overall look of what you are wearing changed or perhaps become more entrenched since the brand’s inception?

Simona: Having worked in the denim industry for a long time, I have progressed from having old skinny jeans to open-end rigid denim, kind of the 501-style in a 1990s look. Peppino Peppino was born from me being bored with what the market was offering. I couldn’t find anything that I really liked at prices that were still affordable.

Do you compromise, even if it goes against your own aesthetics, but might be more profitable?

Simona: No. I would never do anything that I wouldn’t wear myself. Peppino Peppino denim fully represents my style. If you asked me if I would ever do a five pockets skinny fits in power stretch fabric, I’d say no. That’s not the philosophy of the brand.

If you had one piece of advice for young female entrepreneurs who want to build a business, what would it be?

Simona: First off, you need a vision of what you want to communicate with your business. You can start a business even if you’re not rich, but you do need to have some money set aside.

Alessio: And the first thing you have to do nowadays, in the era of globalisation, is to find the right partners. That’s vital.

Simona: I agree.

Are there any goals left on your to-do list?

Simona: To keep on doing what we’re doing and keep on improving. There is a lot to do. It all started as a hobby and now Peppino Peppino is a company. I am very grateful for what we managed to accomplish so far with just the two of us plus our sales agents. That’s quite remarkable. Of course, I would also like to improve our turnover. But not too fast and not in a way that would make me feel uncomfortable or too worried. We would like to grow step by step, finding the right partners, the right stores, and the right clients along the way. A dream client of ours would be Beams Japan.

Do you have any other wishes that haven’t come true yet?

Simona: Yes, I do. And I’m thinking big here, but I’d like to have our own factory one day.

PEPPINOPEPPINO.COM

We don’t want to become a global brand.

We are not interested in that.

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And if a client calls you and says, I need 50 more pairs, can you deliver?

Alessio: Yes, we can. When speaking about sustainability, there is a minimum production and a minimum fabric order. Of course, it’s easier now because we are growing, and we have larger quantities available. But in the beginning, it was very difficult because nobody helps you when you’re working on small quantities.

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FEATURE — KOMET METAL

KOMET METAL

IMPROVEMENT IS A NEVERENDING PROCESS!

N° 84

TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

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PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — RICK-ROTHENBERG

Turkish company Komet Metal Accessories is the first company in the metal accessories sector to receive Oeko-Tex STeP certification. The secret to their success is modern and sustainable production methods and the highest health and safety standards, which are part and parcel of Komet Metal Accessories’ company philosophy. J’N’C sat down with its General Manager Emre Koçik to take a look behind the scenes of the successful company and discusses their ongoing drive to improve.

A SUCCESS STORY DRIVEN BY FAMILY VALUES Komet Metal can be defined by a list of superlatives: 50 million metal accessories are manufactured here every month, distributed to 23 countries including Spain, Italy, France, Pakistan, Morocco and Egypt. In addition to local brand giants Mavi, DeFacto and LC Waikiki, the company also has the Inditex Group, H&M and Mango as customers. When asked about the secret of his company’s success, Emre Koçik, Komet Metal’s General Manager, replies: “Komet is a familyowned business and we treat everybody as we would a family member. So I can say, 60 to 70 percent of our success comes from the hard work of every single family member in the company.” This familial atmosphere and cooperation are top priorities, as well as the adherence to sustainable and ecological standards.

STEP BY OEKO-TEX In 2020, Komet Metal was the first company in the world to receive STeP by Oeko-Tex certification for metal accessories in a certification process carried out by the Hohenstein Institute. The independent certification allows brands, retailers and manufacturers to confirm that their production facilities

FEATURE — KOMET METAL

and products meet the highest sustainable standards and proves that they are willing to implement and maintain these standards in the long term. In addition to the environmentally friendly production methods, occupational safety, working conditions and social responsibility are also taken into account.

Komet Metal is well aware of its special position, as well as its responsibility to maintain these standards, guaranteeing environmentally and socially conscious production.

“STeP means everything to us. We have changed the way we think and the way we produce. We have invested a lot in cleaner and safer production and are still investing to ensure we retain the certification,” emphasises Emre Koçik.

WE CARE! WE COMMIT! WE LEAD! The company’s goals are clearly defined: a production facility that respects people and the environment, meeting the challenges of the industry with innovative ideas and offering metal accessories of the highest quality standards. The company has certainly set itself a high benchmark, which the company expresses with its slogan ‘We care! We commit!

We lead!’. It begins with the production – with environmentally friendly processes like saving water and recycling, the use of wind energy and refusing to use toxic materials as a matter of course. Recycling also plays a key role, with all their packaging being biodegradable and EPI-certified. The company’s annual Sustainability Report only serves to underline their commitment to the environment. Social commitment to their staff is equally important, as is ensuring modern and safe working conditions. In response to the question of why Komet Metal has committed to facing all these challenges and why this path was important for the company despite the hurdles to be taken, Koçik answers: “Every decision comes with consequences. In the beginning, it was very difficult being the first company in the world to make this move.

We started by training our teammates in that direction and

KOMET METAL Attention to detail and quality: The company is one of the first to receive the STeP

by Oeko-Tex certificate for metal accessories.

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K

omet Metal Accessories San. ve Tic. A.Ş. was founded in 1996 by Metin Allevi in Davutpaşa, Istanbul. Over the years, the company, which specialises in the manufacture of metal accessories, just kept on growing. Having moved to a 7,000 m2 site in Beylikdüzü, also in Istanbul, in 2017, they were able to successively expand their production facility. In addition to a coating line, the company premises also boast a foundry, a paint shop and assembly departments, which were all built and are managed in line with European standards. The company is an industry leader in brass accessories and the production of Zamac, an acronym for zinc, aluminium, magnesium and copper.

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FEATURE — KOMET METAL

Sustainable production will be the only production. making our investments based on the new rules. From our production processes to environmental management, chemicals, water saving and energy management: basically, we completely restructured our factory. On top of that, the pandemic really tested us, but we refused to give up. We even increased our sustainability by one more level, going on to achieve the highest level in the STeP certification process.”

Such high internal standards are certainly commendable.

Due to the pandemic alone, the fashion industry seems to be completely obsessed with the idea of restructuring company structures, manufacturing processes and thought patterns to suit new environmentally friendly parameters. But how are these innovations being received by Komet Metal’s customers? And what is their standpoint and behaviour when it comes to sustainability? “When we explained our methodolo-

gy to our customers in our presentations, they were the ones who initially said that it was just a passing trend. But looking back now, almost all our brands are showing much more interest in the subject. I think sustainability is being taken much more seriously now. We receive e-mails about our STeP presentations on a daily basis. Because, as you know, this is the most valuable certificate for sustainability. If a brand wants to offer sustainable production, the whole team needs to be certified. Some companies are more than ready and demanding sustainability, while others aren’t even interested,” says Emre Koçik, summing up the general reactions of their customers after their STeP by Oeko-Tex certification. Putting the focus on the entire sector and society, he adds, “The way I see it, when end users care about their future more than their wallets, they will demand sustainable production and then sustainable production will be the only way. As Chief Seattle, a famous 18th century Native American leader is quoted as saying: ‘Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught, will we realise that we cannot eat money.’”

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

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Anyone curious about Metal Komet’s products can take a closer look at the upcoming Denim Première Vision in Milan this November, where the company will be showcased. In January 2023 they will also be represented at Bluezone during Munich Fabric Start. “We usually attend Munich Fabric Start and Denim PV twice a year. In addition to these two, we are thinking about participating in one other show,” reveals Koçik. In terms of their future goals, the manager admits that they won’t be resting on their laurels but are already planning new projects that will be announced shortly.

When we asked about what the company could still optimise, Emre Koçik’s response is forward-looking and motivated: “Improvement is a neverending process. Of course there are plenty of things that can still be improved and also plenty more to come in the future.”

KOMET METAL

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General Manager Emre Koçik

KOMETMETAL.COM.TR

06 – 08.02.2023

PARIS, LE BOURGET FRANCE

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INTERVIEW — MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI

MANUFACTURING FOR THE FUTURE N° 84

In our industry, ‘heritage’ is a term that’s bandied around a lot these days. Which is why it’s so easy to lump history, tradition and vintage all together in the same category. But Italian company Manifattura Ceccarelli clearly set itself apart from all that. In an interview, founder and CEO Giuliano Ceccarelli explains why and lets us in on what else he wants to achieve with his brand. A visit to Forlì.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN & PIERRE D’AVETA PHOTOS CRISTIAN MURIANNI

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INTERVIEW — MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI MANNIFATTURA CHECCHARELLI Unassuming treasures: Manifattura Ceccarelli’s archive contains countless fabrics, old pieces and a whole lot of expertise.

Looking back to those early days, what has been your biggest success to date?

I am very proud that the credibility of the company and the quality of its products are recognised all over the world.

Your relationship with nature has always been fundamental and influenced the brand from the outset. One example of this is the exclusive use of natural raw materials, which characterises the quality of Manifattura Ceccarelli, all 100 percent made in Italy – something that is more relevant than ever in 2022. Would you also take concrete steps towards sustainability and apply for certificates, for example?

Could that be an option?

Our garments represent a lifestyle: as I say in a video, they should be used as a second skin, both in the city and in the countryside. The use of natural raw materials makes the garments become more and more ‘ours’ and they improve every time we wear them. Over time, jackets get dirty and tear but can be cleaned and repaired to continue the cycle with us. In the future, people will be more respectful of the environment and live with more ‘normal’ rhythms, closer to nature. They will wear clothes that make them feel protected and safe in any

weather condition, at any time of the day. We don’t want to make heritage garments that take you back in time, but modern garments, for the near future, garments that are made of natural materials but exploit all the available technology. Our daily challenge is to improve our garments using existing materials to which we apply processes or technical innovations. Continuous research forms the basis of our work. It’s not about going back to a past lit only by candles but looking ahead to a future in the light of LEDs. The race is never over.

Your design and quality standards have remained the same since the brand was founded in 1998, but a lot has changed – and not just in the industry. As a brand with a specific USP, how do you adapt to these changes?

Just like everyone, we look at the market and try to understand how trends and situations change. At Manifaturra Ceccarello we don’t follow trends, but changes – the change in the climate, for example, is a great source of inspiration for our garments and materials.

The most important thing is to keep the helm steady and follow the course.

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What drove you to start your brand and what were the biggest or most unexpected hurdles?

I would say the lack of a trademark in 2014. The trademark had actually existed since 1998 but was only used occasionally.

So from starting with a turnover of zero euros and eight employees to making an unknown brand known was definitely unexpected and a real hurdle. But the European markets immediately showed confidence in both us and the Italian market, which shows that there has been a need for a brand like this for a long time now.

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INTERVIEW — MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI

MANNIFATTURA CHECCHARELLI Founder Giuliano Ceccarelli hails from Santa Sofia in Romagna in Tuscany, at the foot of the Apennine Mountains. It is an area of outstanding beauty, defined by the Casentinesi Forests National Park and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Integral Natural Reserve of Sasso Fratino – both of which have had a formative influence on Manifattura Ceccarelli’s corporate philosophy.

It’s not only climate change that remains a challenge.

Hard times are behind, and also ahead, of us. How do you assess the situation and what do you think we should definitely not do?

That’s true. Times aren’t easy right now, but we only need to think about what our parents went through in the first half of the 20th century and things suddenly don’t look so bad. The most important thing is to keep the helm steady and follow the course. Over time the situation will change and improve. We will have more sources of energy at our disposal and will have understood that being a little more independent is better.

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Colour is synonymous with joy, passion, a love of beauty, research.

Let’s talk design: for a brand with your design hallmarks, it’s a little surprising that your designs don’t shy away from colour.

Our brand style has always been synonymous with colour. Colour is the basis of life, of nature. Colour is synonymous with joy, passion, a love of beauty, research. Our eyes see in colour, not in black and white. There is much more space for everyone in fashion today. There are many more cross-pollinations, like outdoor wear mixing with fashion and vice versa. Individual style has much more value these days, there is less standardisation by brands. Clothing is now more comfortable and made to be worn multiple times. And young people also love to wear second-hand clothes, garments with a history. So in a world where second hand plays a role, quality garments acquire greater value.

Who or what inspires you?

My source of inspiration has always been the search for beauty, functionality and technology.

You’ve already accomplished a lot but is there anything still on your list? An unexpected collab perhaps, or a limitededition collection?

My dream is to create light, warm, resistant, waterproof, breathable garments, using only natural raw materials. We are working on it and if life allows, we will get there. As a friend of mine said, “It’s only a matter of time”.

MANIFATTURACECCARELLI.COM

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INTERVIEW — MENABÒ GROUP

CONNECT AND THINK AHEAD INTERVIEW DENIZ TROSDORFF & PIERRE D’AVETA PHOTOS CRISTIAN MURIANI

You’re an international agency specialising in strategic consulting, branding and communications, but not only in fashion: you also work in other fields like food and beverages, tech and wellbeing. How has your work changed since you started out?

What is your main focus now in 2022 and beyond?

In 1985 we founded our company in this area of Italy, which is renowned for its food and tech industry. These were the first sectors that we developed. Then, 20 years ago, we started working in the fashion business. Society has changed so much over the 37 years that we’ve been in the market and we are closely observing the changes that have influenced communication and our clients. We also tried to take some changes and new trends emerging in some sectors and then apply the same mindset and changes to other sectors. This is the case, for example, with sustainability. When working in the food market, we experienced some big changes, like plant-based organic trends, at first-hand. And then we started exploring these important codes and topics from other businesses such as fashion. It’s important to try to think ahead and apply the same mindset each time.

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Menabò is no ordinary agency. Not only has it been working across disciplines with clients from different segments since it was established in Italy in 1985, but the way it works with them is unparalleled.

To find out more about their special client relationships and pioneering work, J’N’C spoke exclusively with Andrea Masotti (Client Director and Partner), Elisa Ravaglia (Strategic and Creative Client Director and Partner), Margherita Verlicchi (Senior Content & PR Media), Claudia Ebano (Senior Account Executive) and Giulio Ferro (Content & PR Media) from the Menabò team.

MENABÒ

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From left to right: Elisa Ravaglia, Margherita Verlicchi, Giulio Ferro, Claudia Ebano, Andrea Masotti, Gianluca Randoni, Stefano Scozzoli

INTERVIEW — MENABÒ GROUP

What sets Menabò apart and what are your strengths?

What we usually like to say is that we help our customers to find out what makes them unique. Their special difference is what makes them stand out from the crowd and it’s also what distinguishes Menabò. To do that, we usually concentrate on three elements: the first one is our approach and advanced ingredient branding. This enables us to help our clients find their USP and be more visible and memorable. Secondly: we are a 360-degrees agency that covers everything from strategic branding to market research, graphic design and tradeshows.

We offer all of that under one roof. So it’s easy for us to collaborate on projects and bounce off each other. We manage content but also work together with the digital or graphics team, so we are constantly learning from each other. The third element are the different segments that we are specialised in so we can take our experience from one segment and apply it to another.

Synergy is the keyword here.

You have a lot of international clients in your portfolio.

What criteria does a company have to fulfil for you to consider working with them?

It’s a mutual decision rather than a criterion. We always look for shared values. We talk openly, like to discuss and be available to give our genuine ideas and feedback on what’s happening.

And, of course, we are always on the lookout for enjoyable and promising projects rather than any specific criteria. That includes big companies like Isko, but also small to mediumsized companies. We also like to work with start-ups.

You have clients where things have to be explained to the market in a comprehensive way. This is where communication is key: helping clients to communicate their brand.

You also have to identify the best platform to do that. You need to know what to say and where to say it. Another important thing to mention is that we have peer-to-peer relationships with our clients. That means we can always have frank conversations or discussions and are also able to develop synergies between our clients from different parts of the supply chain.

Sustainability, responsibility, diversity and transformation are key aspects of tomorrow’s fashion. How do you as an agency integrate these key topics into your work? Does the inspiration come from the companies and brands or from you?

Sustainability has been at the heart of everything we do from the outset. We also like to learn day by day how it’s interpreted by our clients. But it’s also about the relational and emotional aspects of sustainability, like the staff and the relationship between employers and employees.

Do the companies themselves contribute a lot of the inspiration?

We also try to bring sustainability aspects from our food-oriented clients to the world of fashion in terms of communicating a certain lifestyle. A mutual relationship. Companies are now beginning to understand that they need to communicate sustainability. But we always had this at the forefront of our minds and tried to explore this new social trend together with our

clients from the start. But in general, within our industry, we work mainly with mills and production facilities that are also concerned about sustainable aspects. They want to save water and energy and take care of their workers. But sometimes they forget to communicate all of that, which, as we know, can be an excellent marketing tool. And that’s why we keep emphasising how important communication is.

Which upcoming trends are an absolute must in your opinion?

Sustainability in a broader sense, as we were discussing. It’s not just chemicals, water and whatever, but an overall approach.

It’s people, it’s trying to understand how to make a positive change in many ways. Of course, there’s also the digital part, the metaverse, NFTs etc. But what we have really felt and sensed much more, even more after the pandemic, is how important the personal and in-person aspect is. You can really sense it at the tradeshows – that people are happy to meet and be together again. That’s proof that networking, talking face to face, is so important. Online calls and video conferences are simply not enough.

Coming back to Menabò: what does the future hold for you?

Our aim is to continue learning from what we do and sharing our knowledge since it’s a mutual relationship that we have with our clients. We want to keep strengthening that, obviously.

But of course, we would be more than happy to see cool projects arising in the business. With more players from the value chain, as well as brands that need this kind of vertical expertise.

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You have Isko, the Riri Group and Officina39 in your portfolio.

What makes the collaborations with your clients so special?

We need to tailor all our consultancy and advice to each client.

But what makes us special? We get to learn from each one of them since they are all pioneers and market leaders dedicated to their own part of the value chain. Each time we go deep into what they do, we learn the codes, the specifics of production.

In addition to Isko, Riri Group and Officina39, as you mentioned, we also partner with companies like Lenzing, Elleti Group, C&S, up to certification bodies like Bluesign, and we always get to learn a lot from the specific segments we are in.

MENABO.COM

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INTERVIEW — FORTELA

F U N D A M E N TA L LY

CLASSIC F U N D A M E N TA L LY

COOL

Alessandro Squarzi’s recipe for success is authentic Italian style paired with US history.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN PHOTOS CRISTIAN MURRIANI

How did Italian men get a reputation for possessing such innate style and class? Some people labour their whole lives to master the art of something that Milano-born men like Alessandro Squarzi simply have by the bucketload: style, charm, coolness and success.

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Alessandro is not only known for his good looks, however, but also for his business acumen. His career began in the 1990s as a boutique manager and salesman, experience that strengthened his passion for fashion with expertise and made him a brilliant businessman with his own sense of potential for some of the brands that have since become well known. In the early 2000s, Alessandro Squarzi flew the flag for brands that are still successful and distributed worldwide to this day, including Dondup, Jucca and Forte-Forte. Between 2011 and 2013 alone, he founded three new brands: AS65, Atlantic Stars and Fortela.

The latter was established to fill a gap, as he explains in our interview. And so Fortela is a “made in Italy luxury brand that combines vintage, American and Italian style”. After all, he is also a big fan of vintage and is one of the biggest collectors in Italy, in addition to his admirable collection of vintage cars and motorbikes.

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The fact that his friend Scott Schuman, famous street-style photographer and author of the book ‘The Sartorialist’, shot photos of him, has certainly boosted Squarzi’s ascent well beyond the world of business. Now a well-known face in the online fashion community, Alessandro Squarzi has established

himself as a style icon and his Instagram profile attracts thousands of followers around the world. No wonder, then, that in countries like Japan and Korea which are traditionally associated with Italian fashion, he is considered not only to be the ultimate style role model, but also a true representative of the Italian lifestyle.

Why did you establish your own brand? What’s the story behind it?

Fortela is not the first brand I have founded. I previously created Dondup, AS65 and Mr&MrsFur. So it’s not my first experience of this kind, but the idea behind the creation of Fortela was that of creating something different, compared to what was already on the market at the time.

You launched Fortela seven years ago. When you look back on this period, including more than two years of COVID, what are the biggest lessons you’ve learnt so far?

In the past seven years, my mainstay and what kept me going during these difficult times was coherence. What I learnt is that if you stay coherent and true to yourself, you will achieve great satisfaction.

Alessandro Squarzi’s company has showrooms in Bologna, Ancona, Florence and, since 2013, also an important space on Via Spartaco in Milan.

The latter was set up to create a point of contact with foreign customers while also being an important presence on the main square that represents Italian fashion. Last year, the new international department was opened in Alessandro Squarzi’s Milan showroom, where new and emerging brands from the international scene, all carefully selected by Alessandro Squarzi himself, are showcased on an area of 150 m2.

INTERVIEW —FORTELA N° 84

I don’t follow any kind of trend.

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INTERVIEW — FORTELA

Apart from the Italians, which countries are leading the way in terms of trends?

Oh, I can’t answer that question because I don’t follow any kind of trend.

But the fashion industry does – not only in terms of design, but also in terms of technologies, societal trends or politically, when it comes to supply chains for example. For a few seasons now, the industry has been undergoing significant changes, which isn’t easy for every brand to weather. How do you perceive the developments in the market and where do you see untapped opportunities?

Unfortunately, fashion is always about chasing after something new. And chasing after current trends is something I find really difficult.

Why is that?

Well, this brings me back, again, to the topic of coherence.

I have always been faithful to my way of dressing and thinking.

Sometimes that can be a difficult path but I strongly believe that when you build solid pillars that are truly appreciated, then it is difficult to destroy them. This happens particularly in the field of menswear.

Do you have any wishes that haven’t come true yet?

The best wish that ever came true for me was my daughter Allegra. And as far as the business is concerned, I would like to see Fortela become a timeless brand like Hermès.

Your passion for archival vintage, classic tailoring and a touch of western and military distinguish your brand. What makes these qualities so timeless in such a fast-changing industry?

At the risk of repeating myself, my answer is also coherence.

We only use high-quality raw materials; our production is completely made in Italy, with a small part made in Japan. I believe that pieces that have a story to tell will never go unnoticed.

And you’re not just telling stories with your menswear: Fortela has also been offering womenswear since 2020. Where do you think the most exciting developments are taking place?

Women definitely buy more than men. And our womenswear perfectly reflects the image of the original Fortela man. I would say at the moment they are walking side by side, but the women are definitely faster!

The Italian style has become renowned all over the world.

What’s your secret?

The secret is simple: Italians do it better.

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It’s that simple? Of course that’s going to be a disappointment for anyone who isn’t from Italy and wants to emulate you. But maybe you can help us with the next question: you are known for your own personal style, for which you’ve earned yourself close to 300k followers on Instagram and you are also a selfconfessed vintage collector. How do you define style and what pieces should everyone have in their wardrobe?

My style is fundamentally classic. I love to mix my vintage pieces with garments from the Fortela collection. And I believe that every man should have a pair of beautiful blue jeans, a pair of white jeans and a double-breasted blue jacket, preferably with gold buttons, as well as a good coat and a chambray shirt.

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Accessories, however, can add a certain something to any look and you definitely have a weakness for watches. What is it about them that fascinates you? And which model should we invest in?

I am attracted by the object itself, rather than by the brand.

One of the last watches I bought was Panerai California. It is my first Panerai because I have never been a fan of big watches, but I have to say that I really love this one a lot.

And last but not least: if there were one place you could be right now, where would it be?

My dream is to retire to a ranch with my horses and have the time to take care of them. Preferably in New Mexico.

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BRAND FEATURE — COTTON CANDY

BACK TO THE ROOTS 2022 may be drawing to a close, but there are big changes afoot for Düsseldorf-based fashion label Cotton Candy in autumn/ winter 2023. The company is planning to return to its classic pre-order system for the coming ordering season and is doing away with its short-notice orders from April 2023.

But what changes, and above all challenges, will this move bring for the brand?

INTERVIEW KRISTIN WALZEL

Düsseldorf brand Cotton Candy has always worked closely with its suppliers and can look back on a long history of solid partnerships. In the past few months, however, the ‘just-intime’ label has been left to suffer at the hands of the fashion industry’s ailing system. The aftermath of COVID and rising inflation have meant that, despite good turnover with the brand’s products, retailers haven’t always been in a position to fulfil their partnership obligations. This is why Cotton Candy will be switching its system back to the classic pre-orders from January for the autumn/winter 2023 season. “Parallel to the classic AW23 pre-orders in January, we will be offering our short-term orders for the last time in January with drops for February 2023, March 2023 and April 2023,” explains Ümit Ekinci, Cotton Candy’s CEO.

A POSITIVE TRANSITION Cotton Candy has a number of reasons for making this change to their order system: the short notice they were offering wasn’t always honoured by customers and retailers, and drops were being skipped due to a lack of budget, even though the products were popular. “Another reason is that our short-notice order periods often overlapped with the main deliveries of many pre-order suppliers, which also had a negative impact on our trade, depending on the business situation and weather conditions,” Ekinci continues.

LOOKING AHEAD In order to get their wholesale business back on track and restore agency business to pre-COVID levels, this is a decision that Cotton Candy made over the past 24 months. They are also pursuing other measures such as their Be-Premium scheme. “Since 1 June 2022, customers who help us plan better and work closely alongside us as partners will be able to enjoy a number of attractive benefits,” says Ekinci. The company is also planning on introducing marketing measures in social media and separating its wholesale and online collections.

Since the pandemic, online sales have risen steadily. Cotton Candy’s online revenues are currently more than 50 percent up on the successful year of 2021. Overall, during the next two years the company wants to position itself as an as an indispensable partner of the industry that is a firm fixture in retailers’ collections. “In the short to midterm, our focus is on re-categorising, optimising and restructuring our assortments. In the future, B2B, platform and D2C assortments will be designed independently of each other, to give every revenue stream the necessary autonomy,” Ekinci concludes.

COTTONCANDY-FASHION.DE

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INTERVIEW — ALBERTO

GOING FOR GOLD Trouser specialist Alberto from Mönchen­ gladbach is even outdoing itself at the moment: to mark the company’s centenary celebrations this year, they have already launched several cooperations and innovations. And with its latest initiative, the label is not only paying tribute to its own rich company history, but also – quite literally – erecting a golden monument to itself, its fans and its innovative technologies.

The trouser connoisseurs from Alberto have done it again: the brand, which is continually setting the bar higher for itself with innovative promotions and products, isn’t falling short of expectations with its latest idea either. To celebrate their 100th anniversary in 2022, Alberto is presenting various new product innovations and collaborations throughout the year that reflect the very essence of the brand. Driven by innovation, unconventional and always one step ahead – that doesn’t only apply to the products, but also to the company itself. And their latest coup underlines this attitude perfectly.

Who’s wearing the (gold) trousers here?

Gold for Alberto! Several years ago, furniture designer Jochem Reichenberg, a long-standing friend and partner of Alberto, created a ‘Golden Denim’ trouser sculpture for the brand. Providing the inspiration for the anniversary celebrations, this visual masterpiece not only symbolically marks the progress, attention

to detail and new innovations that Alberto has achieved over the past century, but also stands for the present and the future.

So what does that look like exactly? Fans and friends of Alberto can now find out virtually: at alberto-pants.com/goldendenim, you can admire the iconic gold jeans from all angles as a rotating 3D model and also participate in a fun AR photo campaign.

Captured for posterity If you want to be part of the big Alberto birthday bash, all you have to do is select an unusual, funny, creative or spontaneous photo of yourself, activate the AR tool via QR code, position the gold jeans and take a snapshot. Simply add the hashtags #100YOP, #goldenpants and #albertopants and share it on Insta­ gram. “We are inviting our customers, our partners and sales agencies and of course our own team to celebrate a little piece of trouser history with us.

We can’t wait to see all of the cool posts!” Alberto’s Managing Director Marco Lanowy tells us.

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TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

ALBERTO-PANTS.COM

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BRAND FEATURE — ALPHATAURI

BIG STEPS TOWARDS INTERNATIONALISATION Premium fashion label AlphaTauri is on course for expansion. Just recently, the label, which is owned by energy drink giant Red Bull, opened its first pop-up store in Japan. The opening of their London flagship store is set to follow at the beginning of November. Always at the fore: the internationalisation of the brand.

TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

Tokyo, Shinjuku Ward. This is where AlphaTauri opened its first pop-up store in Japan at the beginning of October. It was located inside the Isetan Men’s department store until 18 October 2022. The opening took place shortly before Japan’s Grand Prix, which was serendipitous because it was attended

by Formula One driver Pierre Gasly and Yuki Tsunoda from the Scuderia AlphaTauri team, which are the brand sponsors.

Ahmet Mercan, AlphaTauri’s CEO, was thrilled by the event: “After our market entry in Japan in May 2021, our pop-up stores in cooperation with locally established premium retail partner Isetan is a further milestone. This cooperation marks our entry into the stationary retail trade in Japan.” The cooperation will be continued with another pop-up in the Isetan Haneda Store at Tokyo International Airport, from 26 October to 6 December 2022.

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NEXT STOP: LONDON Anyone thinking the company might allow itself to take a breather after all of that couldn’t be more wrong: the next retail destination is already in the pipeline. The brand is plotting its next retail coup in London, where it will be opening a flagship store in November. When asked why they chose London, Ahmet Mercan responded: “We’re continuing our expansion

course in the fashion metropolis of London: after all, the British capital is not only the birthplace of many renowned designers who have defined and shaped the international fashion scene in the long term, but also one of the metropolises for new trends and inspiration. For a global fashion brand, London is and remains an important location with a beacon effect.” The brand already has its own stores in Salzburg and Vienna and is also represented at a few select retailers in Europe as well as in Turkey and Qatar. Their expansion process is really picking up pace, as Ahmet Mercan confirms: “Our aim is to implement the brand vision of AlphaTauri internationally and to build a global brand presence. With the store openings in Japan and the UK, we are strengthening AlphaTauri’s position in two important key countries and taking great strides towards internationalisation.”

INNOVATION, FUNCTION AND DESIGN IN HARMONY Since 2016, AlphaTauri has been continuing its journey, pushing forward with superlative events and products. Its sights are always set on merging design with smart, innovative fabrics, developed in consultation with renowned international experts. A perfect example of this design synthesis is their latest capsule collection, created in cooperation with the two aforementioned Formula 1 racing drivers Pierre and Yuki. At the heart of the ‘Heatable Capsules Collection 2.0’ is outerwear that warms you up at the touch of a button. The main sponsor of the F1 Scuderia AlphaTauri racing team and also outfitter of Oracle Red Bull Racing, DTM and Formula One, AlphaTauri is permanently inspired to bring together innovation and technology and redefine the boundaries of fashion and textiles in the spirit of the dynamic motorsport. The range comprises a heatable trench coat and a commuter jacket, developed in cooperation with Deutsche Telekom and Schoeller Textil AG. With the aid of a digital app or at the push of a button, the wearer can adjust the warmth levels for heated zones in the front pockets and on the back. We’re certainly curious to see AlphaTauri’s next steps – with regards to their expansion as well as their innovative ideas. But there’s one thing we can be sure of: standstill is out of the question.

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INTERVIEW — GARCIA

AROUND THE KITCHEN TABLE For Garcia, the year 2022 is all about its 50th anniversary, which will be celebrated with pop-ups, influencer cooperations and even a huge beach party. We spoke to Mark Hommelberg, the CEO of Garcia for the past five years, about the company’s founders Isabella and Maurizio, values and the kitchen table as the heart of the family.

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Mark Hommelberg, CEO

To celebrate your company’s 50th anniversary, you’ve launched two new denims, which you named after the company founders Isabella and Maurizio. Can you tell us the story behind that?

To commemorate the anniversary, we wanted to honour Isabella and Maurizio by breathing new life into a vintage style

by Garcia and have it made in our factory in Italy. But then Isabella Garcia unfortunately passed away last year at the age of 88. We ended up designing a really cool denim style that was suitable for a remake and also a matching jacket.

After launching our most sustainable jeans to date (made with 20 percent post-consumer recycled material) in 2021, we decided to use that fabric for the Isabella and Maurizio edition too.

You’ve been CEO of the JOG Group, and therefore also of Garcia, for five years now. What is it that sets the brand apart in your opinion?

Apart from the fact that Garcia is a large, internationally operating brand, it’s also a family company and I really value that. Garcia is also very focused on

INTERVIEW — GARCIA

if you ask us, is the kitchen table. That’s the place you chat, have fun and get together to eat. That’s what forms the basis of our ‘Kitchen Table Story’ idea for the shop floor, in our shop-in-shop concepts, for example. We always have a kitchen table with an olive tree in the middle of our store, to bring people together.

The family is at the focus of your message, whether it be the collections and fits for the whole family or your community spirit. What exactly are you trying to convey with that?

I’m the father of four children myself.

That is what defines me. And so of course I know what family life looks like. With Garcia we want to convey family values; family can also mean friendship, which includes your friends. That applies across all generations, from grandparents and grandchildren to friends of all ages.

We make our collections for all of those people. And at the heart of every family,

Your anniversary year isn’t quite over yet. How have you celebrated the 50 th anniversary of Garcia so far and what else is on the cards?

Our huge beach party with our 1,000 employees from all over the world was a particular highlight and a lot of fun, especially after the pandemic. We kicked things off in summer and we’ll be going into the stores this autumn and winter.

There will be a pop-up store that reflects the 70s and 80s and conveys the family vibe and that of our denim factory. We’ve also set up an influencer programme on social media.

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the product, which I think is great. At the same time, the clear goal has always been to develop the brand. Everything revolves around the fact that it’s a family business. That also means we make collections for the whole family, in equal measure for the four divisions: men, women, girls and boys.

Let’s also take a glimpse at what the future might hold: what are you planning for the coming seasons?

On the one hand, we are a brand that doesn’t really change very much. We don’t chase trends; we just stick to the plan. And that’s something that’s not fashionable, because it’s not so cool to stay the same. I think the best compliment, which I can also give to the former CEOs of this company, is that we have always stayed grounded and true to our structure and family values. On the other hand, we have invested a lot of money in things like online retail, bricks-andmortar retail and social media. We have more than 100 stores and generate more than 20 percent of our turnover with e-commerce. We are an omnichannel company and very much prepared for the future. We plan on keeping that up and will be opening, for example, new stores in Germany – in Mönchengladbach and Oberhausen. And that’s something we’ll be continuing in 2023. We want to open stores to showcase our brand to spread our idea of the kitchen table stories. And we’re now ready to officially launch our CSR department, which we’ve had for three years now.

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INTERVIEW — DECENT STORE

DECENT STORE

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HONESTY IS THE BEST POLICY

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INTERVIEW — DECENT STORE

Fashion with foresight: The German city of Trier is home to a store that has specialised in slow fashion, offering an out-of-the-ordinary stationary shopping experience. Founder Sebastian Zisch talks to us about what makes his Decent Store so unique.

INTERVIEW FRANKA SCHMID

Trier isn’t exactly the first city that springs to mind when thinking about shopping destinations. But there’s a lot more to it than meets the eye. What advantages does the location offer for the German-speaking region?

Trier is at the heart of Europe and especially close to Luxembourg, Belgium and France. This factor and the higher-thanaverage number of tourists make Trier a lucrative and really interesting location for retail.

Decent could mean ‘responsible’ or ‘honest’. What’s the concept behind your store?

We offer honest, responsible fashion and see ourselves as the antithesis of fast-fashion trends that simply don’t reflect the challenges we’re facing as a society, in terms of ecology, economics and community. Our aim is to provide our customers with fashion that brings them many years of joy.

That’s why slow fashion defines what we buy for our store: we buy with the long view in mind. That way, our clients can be sure that the clothes they buy will still be up to date in the coming seasons.

Slow fashion defines what we buy for our store.

You stock organic clothing but also regular apparel. What specifications do your brands have to fulfil to be added to your portfolio?

They need to be sustainable, stylish and exclusive. We are only looking for long partnerships with brands that strive to be fair to the end consumer as well as to us. An important link in this chain are brands we want to continue to have good relationships with like Knowledge Cotton, Carhartt, Edwin and many more.

E-commerce is a necessary part of stationary business these days. What differences and similarities can you see between the stationary store in Trier and your online store?

Unlike in online retail, at our bricks-and-mortar store we can offer our customers comprehensive consultation and the option of discovering something new. Our store isn’t just somewhere to shop but also a place to hang out and it plays an important role in building our community. Our coffee corner with an espresso machine and a variety of freshly roasted beans also contributes to this. Some of our brands are only available in store, to maintain a certain excitement for the real-life shopping experience.

How do you ensure sustainability in terms of delivery and logistics?

We use exclusively recycled packaging materials as well as used boxes and send them out with DHL Green. We don’t offer free returns and only use digital return labels. That’s why our return rate is just seven percent!

Our return rate is just seven percent.

End consumers have very high expectations of a bricks-andmortar store. What are the attributes that Decent’s clientele value above all else?

In addition to quality and exclusivity, which are a given, our customers are always fascinated by the stories behind our fashion and our relationship with our products. This kind of enthusiasm is pretty contagious, and we see it reflected in our customers’ shopping behaviour. They can sense our passion for our products and the fact we know every tiny detail about each item. In addition to fashion, we also offer a selection of regional specialities, reflecting our down-to-earth nature and our roots.

What plans do you have for the future of Decent and what else do you want to achieve?

We want to continue growing, adding exclusive labels to our range and further developing our USP in the region. We could also imagine opening more stores.

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What made you open the store?

Patrick and I got to know each other while out shopping and, after thinking long and hard about it, we decided to open a store together. Thanks to Patrick’s many years of experience in the retail business we were able to draw on existing contacts and further develop others, as well as making new connections at trade fairs.

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INTERVIEW — UNION FADE STORE

UNION FADE STORE

VINTAGE IS THE STUFF THAT STORIES ARE MADE OF A collection of experiences made on journeys through the deserts and mountains of the United States: Italian vintage shop Union Fade Store in Milan is breathing new life into rare denim and western pieces. A chat with founder Cristian Murianni.

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What potential does vintage fashion have for the international fashion market?

We are living in a time in which the vintage lifestyle is becoming a luxury. The fashion industry has lost a bit of its creativity and often ends up replicating itself. A lot of brands see the journey as the destination per se and regularly end up losing their own identity in the process. Vintage, on the other hand, tells stories and will always remain a source of inspiration for new generations. Our store and our vintage clothing inspires many companies.

We really enjoy checking the details of the items and seeing what makes vintage fashion so unique.

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Why did you decide to concentrate on denim and workwear?

I love all the little details of the pieces – from their small flaws to buttons that have oxidised over time. In the case of denim, the important details are the fading of the fabric and the manual repairs. This simple fabric has a composition that makes it unique and can tell a century’s worth of stories. Workwear was originally designed for the working class. After its life cycle, it is given a second chance thanks to vintage fashion. Its details are upgraded and that’s what makes each item so interesting.

Newly produced denim is regarded as one of the biggest environmental polluters in the fashion industry. Does sustainability play a big role in your store concept?

Every company is looking for their own sustainable solutions. Reusing clothing that’s already in circulation is the only right answer to the climate problem.

Denim can tell a century’s worth of stories.

How old does an item of clothing need to be for it to be classed as vintage and what’s the difference between vintage and second-hand?

An item of clothing can be classed as vintage when it’s over 20 years old. Our selection includes clothing and brands that have written the history of fashion.

We always look at the details that they offer and that make them stand out.

Second-hand isn’t part of our concept.

We don’t buy in bulk or at random, simply to fill the store.

What are the vintage highlights in your Union Fade Store?

I have a strong affinity with clothing from the USA and its history. My research is influenced by my trips and my passions.

I hope that Union Fade Store reflects my way of looking at the world and that our clientele are fascinated by the selection on offer. unionfadestore.com

ARTWORK

art∙work

(ɑːt.wɜːk)

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1. the production of artistic or craft objects.

2. an object or objects so produced.

3. print a. the elements that constitute a mechanical, as type proofs and illustrations. b. a mechanical; paste–up.

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PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA GROSSMANN

STYLING SOPHIE PFUHLER

HAIR & MAKE-UP AURELIA BRAGA DE MATOS

PRODUCTION CHERYLL MÜHLEN & DENIZ TROSDORFF

SETDESIGN PELIN GEBHARD

MODEL CAMILA R @MIRRRS MODELS

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OUTFIT #1 + 8 SHIRT & SHORTS DIESEL LIBRARY BLOUSE & OTHER STORIES JEANS OFFICINA+39 EARRINGS SABRINA DEHOFF OUTFIT #2 + 9 JACKET DIESEL DRESS DIESEL LIBRARY SKIRT (WRAPPED AS SCARF) MUD JEANS EARRINGS SABRINA DEHOFF CLOGS ARKET OUTFIT #3 + 7 JACKET G-STAR RAW TOP & OTHER STORIES JEANS DIESEL SHIRT KARL LAGERFELD SHOES STYLIST’S OWN OUTFIT #4 DENIM JACKET DIESEL LIBRARY JEANS DIESEL SHORT CLOSED OUTFIT #5 DRESS & SHIRT DIESEL LIBRARY MIDISKIRT ALIGNE VEST WRANGLER X GANT BLOUSE & HAIR CLIPPERS & OTHER STORIES MINI SKIRT DIESEL JEANS (HEAD) KARL LAGERFELD OUTFIT #6 DENIM JACKETS DIESEL LIBRARY JACKET FADE OUT LABEL VIA ASPIK.STORE JEANS DIESEL

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MASTER OF THE BLUE JEANS, A BEGGAR BOY WITH A PIECE OF PIE OIL ON CANVAS, 33 ⁷/₈ × 27 1⁵/₁₆ IN (86 × 71 CM)

© PRIVATE COLLECTION, GALERIE CANESSO, PARIS

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SHIRT & SHORTS DIESEL LIBRARY BLOUSE & OTHER STORIES JEANS OFFICINA+39 EARRINGS SABRINA DEHOFF RINGS MAANESTEN

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JACKET BA&SH JEANS CLOSED, G-STAR RAW, OFFICINA+39 CLOGS ARKET

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MASTER OF THE BLUE JEANS, WOMAN BEGGING WITH TWO CHILDREN OIL ON CANVAS, 59 ⁷/₈ × 46 1/₁₆ IN (152 × 117 CM)

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MASTER OF THE BLUE JEANS, WOMAN SEWING WITH TWO CHILDREN OIL ON CANVAS, 39 3/₈ × 71 1/₄ IN (100 × 181 CM)

© PRIVATE COLLECTION, GALERIE CANESSO, PARIS

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SHIRT DIESEL LIBRARY SKIRT & PANTS MUJI RINGS MAANESTEN

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JACKET FADE OUT LABEL VIA ASPIK.STORE VEST WRANGLER X GANT BLOUSE & HAIR CLIPPERS & OTHER STORIES MINI SKIRT DIESEL JEANS WORN ON HEAD KARL LAGERFELD

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SHIRT & SHORTS DAVID CATALÁN VIA ASPIK.STORE T-SHIRT FADE OUT LABEL VIA ASPIK.STORE EARRINGS SABRINA DEHOFF

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DENIM TRENDS SS24/25

DENIM OF THE FUTURE D E N I M T RE N D S S S 24 /2 5

TEXT KRISTIN WALZEL

ORTA

FOCUS ON REGENERATION The ongoing quest to find new and innovative solutions for a better future in the denim sector is embedded in denim manufacturer Orta’s DNA. With their spring/summer 2024 collection, the company is focusing on pre and post-consumer cotton fibres, as well as bio-diverse regenerative fabrics and mineral dyes. “When we produce fabrics, we really want to create rich materials that work for people and the planet,” says Orta. The coming trends focus on regeneration and recycling. For example, Orta is offering its ‘Golden Ratio Formula’, an evolutionary fabric with 50 percent recycled content made of waste wood fibre and regenerative cotton.

“We are championing BluBiodiversity by keeping pure cotton in the fields, not in our fabrics.

And we are extending the sustainable look with organically developed and recycled viscose, spandex and polyester – a trifecta of gorgeous, soft and elegant blends,” Orta say. The ‘Keeper Culture’ fabrics are full of vitality, reflecting a colourful past and a vibrant future. ‘Blu Dopamine’ is all about the feel-good effect. Here, lightweight fabrics meet highly elasticated and knitted looks.

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TEASER DENIM / RUBRIK TRENDS—SS24/25 THEMA

PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — PAWEL CZERWINSKI

ISKO

ONE STEP AHEAD Renowned for their innovations and latest technologies, globally successful denim manufacturer Isko is always one step ahead, with its sights set on the future. With the ‘Isko Reform HP’ technology, the jeans with 40 to 60 percent stretch feel comfortable and sturdy. This way the company can create an exemplary fit that is optimised with different cuts, weights and colours. The technology offers built-in reshaping and presents second-skin jeans that represent comfort, freedom and future style.

‘Isko Reform 100’ presents a denim that flatters every body shape and, thanks to its high elasticity, ensures a contoured look. The feminine fabric technology of ‘Isko Jeggins’ also suits every body type for a perfect fit while allowing freedom of movement. Beyond that, the Isko Jeggins range has been further expanded with the patented ‘Isko Pop’ – a special yarn that provides a natural, durable softness and luminosity.

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PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — PAWEL CZERWINSKI

DENIM TRENDS SS24/25

CALIK

THE POWER OF NATURE An affinity with nature is something special.

And it is with this awareness that denim manufacturer Calik Denim approached its new Blue Coalescence spring/summer 24/25 collection and is bringing a new technology onto the market this coming season. In the words of the company: “This collection will again lead the change and positive transformation of the industry, bringing us together with the next stage of the company’s unique Re/J, E-Last and Rawtech concepts, as well as showcasing the new B210 technology”. B210 makes fabrics almost fully biodegradable, dissolving them within 210 days – which is very much in line with Calik Denim’s ‘Future to Nature’ slogan.

The new technology can be applied to every denim product – from stiff to stretchy. And with RE/J, the denim manufacturer has developed another fabric concept that stands out with its authentic vintage denim looks. It features value-added, recycled fibres such as Ecolycra and Reprieve PES. The new E-Last concept offers pattern optimisation that saves time and energy by limiting potential errors during the cutting, sewing and washing stages of garment production. It ensures low weft shrinkage for power-stretch fabrics, resulting in less waste and better sustainability, as well as a comfortable feel.

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OFFICINA+39

For years now, the Italian denim manufacturer has been dedicated to an ecological concept based on honesty, transparency and social responsibility. Denim is not only a highly adaptable fabric but also a canvas for all kinds of forms of expression. This is demonstrated by Officina39 with their coming spring/summer 24/25 collection ‘Multicolor Denim Dreaming’. Colour experimentation is the key to the collection. “Officina39 has found new ways to translate the indigo process of denim into a polychromatic one, by using living colours and playing wth a variety of techniques that bring new energy and create a collection where indigo achieves multicolored hues,” the company says. The new collection also uses multiple, key sustainable technologies aimed at water conservation and circular economy. The ‘Aqualess Fade’ technology uses this process, allowing Officina39 to pursue its mission and continue guaranteeing responsible quality results on the market. In addition, the company has developed a broad colour palette thanks to its Nebudye range of dyes that can be used for decades. The Nebudye technology uses as little water as possible thanks to a misting technique that is carried out throughout the entire process and means they can save up to 90 percent water.

‘Smart Bleach’ is an innovative bleaching technology that was specially developed to replace the conventional denim bleaches of chlorine or potassium permanganate basis. And with the ‘Oz-One Powder’ method, denim styles can be given a used look without the need for water or high temperatures.

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PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — PAWEL CZERWINSKI

MULTICOLOURED DENIM

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DENIMTRENDS TRENDSAW SS24/25 DENIM 23/24

ADVANCE DENIM

PROGRESS & SUSTAINABILITY Well known for its technologies and sustainable innovations in denim, Chinese denim company Advance Denim is always ahead of the pack. For its spring/summer 2024/25 collection, the company is presenting three new concepts. One of them involved working with staff from a university in China to develop the extraction of pigment components from natural plants like lavender, pomegranate and Japanese loquat. The new ‘Botanic Dye’ concept gives every colour subtle and harmonious shades. “These colours ‘come alive’ and develop over time, whether in the shade or in the sun. And the tones are also slightly varied, which makes every garment unique,” according to the company. Advance Denim is also introducing ‘Bio Blue Denim’, which uses an environmentally friendly reduction agent in the indigo dyeing process. This process is gentler on the environment while ensuring a high dyeing quality. With their new ‘Salvage Denim’ fabric, the company has also come up with a new fabric and redesign innovation. Not only are the denim items made from fully recycled cotton and produced in Vietnam; they are also RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certified.

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DENIM TRENDS SS24/25

PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — PAWEL CZERWINSKI

MARITAS˛ DENIM

THE AQUALESS MISSION The Turkish denim manufacturer is focusing on regenerative cotton products for the upcoming SS24/25 season and continuing to explore the future of sustainable denim design. “We believe that we can change the lives of our customers, team members and the world by openly communicating powerful information, developing uniquely effective products and fostering a connection between denim and nature,” says the company. An integral part of the upcoming collection will be denim rejuvenation – by incorporating regenerative cotton products. Another concept is ‘Spin Off’, where the company is focusing on vintage denim using contrasting blue tones, sustainable dyeing methods, green-grey tints, overdyed blacks and elasticated designs.

‘Cycle X’ features a special combination of techniques involving the fibres as well as the spinning, weaving and finishing processes. With this method, Maritas can enable the fashion industry to produce recyclable fabrics that are still highly elasticated. With the novel idea of ‘Bullue Denim’, a blue tint can be achieved after washing, as well as authentic washdown effects on twills.

This method is particularly suitable for laser treatments, in which light shades of indigo are infused and then dyed over with sulphur dye.

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PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — PAWEL CZERWINSKI

DENIM TRENDS SS24/25

ISKUR DENIM

ALL SIGNS POINT TO GREEN Authenticity plays an essential role for denim manufacturer Iskur Denim and is firmly embedded in the Turkish company’s portfolio.

For the coming spring/summer 24/25 collection, they are putting even more of a focus on sustainability when it comes to fabrics and production processes. Iskur not only has its own in-house recycling facility to ensure zero waste, but also its own heat and power unit for zero CO2 emissions. As part of their sustainability and innovation research, Iskur Denim is also able to manufacture endlessly soft yarns and weave their denim fabrics without the use of chemicals. “Our super-stretch fabrics, woven from yarns from the Iskur group, have a great vintage denim look, even with 100 percent elasticity,” explains Iskur Denim. The company has also installed a new waterless yarn dyeing system in the interests of climate protection. For its eco-production, the factory roof has been fitted with renewable solar energy systems.

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BOSSA

BACK TO THE ROOTS Denim manufacturer Bossa’s motto is firmly rooted in their philosophy: which is why they present new trends defined by different cultural influences every season. For the coming SS24/25 season, the denim manufacturer has divided its trends into three categories: Going West, Green Rush and Modern Cowboy.

GOING WEST Inspired by the aesthetic of the Wild West, Bossa is presenting a relaxed denim trend with wide-leg jeans that hug the hips. The silhouettes are a nod to the icons of Western films and a homage to indigo tints and broken-in black tones.

GREEN RUSH Sustainability is the focus of this trend, which Bossa is interpreting with a vintage design. “Our concepts mirror the urge that Californians had back in the days of the Gold Rush as they sought that special mineral treasure for wealth.

But these days, our ‘gold’ is the pursuit of sustainability to nurture health. Western workwear is known for its durability, longevity and ability to transcend fads, and this collection upholds that legacy,” says the company.

MODERN COWBOY This trend is defined by breathable, innovative fibres like brown cotton. Added to the mix are water-saving, zero-dye techniques and yarns sourced from regenerative farming. Bossa is whisking us off to wilder and simpler times with its curated colour palette and innovative textures.

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PHOTO UNSPLASH.COM — PAWEL CZERWINSKI

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Talk is sweet, action is better: the Fashion Changers Conference is taking place from 8-10 November 2022. With digital panel talks, workshops and a physical opening event, the aim is to inspire, motivate, network and educate.

TEXT JENNI KOUTNI

Positive transformation in the fashion industry – just wishful, utopian thinking or something that is actually within reach?

The latter, if you ask the founders of Fashion Changers. They believe that this can be achieved by sharing expertise, specific recommendations for action and experiences. All of which can be found in abundance at this year’s Fashion Changers Conference, as co-founder Nina Lorenzen tells us: “Once again we have a line-up of fantastic speakers such as labour law activist Kalpona Akter, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Germany Kerstin Weng, founders like Anna Yona from Wildling and the politicians Katrin Göring-Eckardt and Anna Cavazzini.” They will come together to discuss issues like how fair working conditions can be compared, how labels can design their clothing to be more inclusive, which direction re-commerce is developing in and what TikTok & Co. mean for sustainability communication.

“The part I’m looking forward to the most is the in-person opening event. That’s a premiere for us and the perfect way to complement our digital line-up.” So if you’re in Berlin on 8 November, you’ll be able to meet the founders live and in person.

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Together with Jana Braumüller and Vreni Jäckle, Lorenzen established Fashion Changers in 2018. The trio pooled their expertise and passion for fair fashion and began organising networking events under the motto ‘Cooperation over competition’.

Motivated by success, things soon really took off for the collective: at the beginning of 2019, the Fashion Changers Magazine was launched; in 2020 they published their first book and held the first conference, swiftly followed by their industry newsletter Modepost in 2021 and the introduction of the Fashion Changers Membership in 2022. “In our online magazine, we have always dedicated space to stories that we thought weren’t visible enough or discussed too generically,” says Nina Lorenzen, looking back. “Then we came up with the idea of organising a conference as a place where professionals from the fashion industry can come together to share their knowledge and learn from

PHOTO EMILIEELIZABETH

FASHION CHANGERS

POSITIVE CHANGE IS AROUND THE CORNER

one another as equals.” The team has certainly never been lacking in ideas or drive. And the fact that the third edition of the Fashion Changers Conference isn’t taking place in person is down to the enthusiastic response, as Lorenzen reveals: “When we had to switch at short notice to a digital-only format in 2020 because of the pandemic, we were inconsolable to begin with – until we recognised the potential and appeal of doing things digitally. Our community was also happy about being able to take part without needing to travel.”

FASHION IS POLITICAL

The line-up of the Fashion Changers Conference will also delve deeper, without shying away from the difficult questions. Because for far too long, the fashion industry has found it more convenient to stay out of the political fray. Greenwashing is also something that we need to fight together, by educating and advising – because making false sustainability promises, say the Fashion Changers, is not only fatal for your own company, but will also have a negative impact on the reputation of the entire industry. This is something that the fashion media should also feel responsible for, according to Lorenzen: “More specific information in sustainability communication is vital, even if the space and time are often lacking. It’s of no help to anyone if all we are doing is bandying around empty words like ‘sustainable’ and ‘fair’.” Related topics that the founder believes are being neglected in many media range from living wages to size-inclusive and barrier-free fashion, to craftsmanship in crisis and conflict regions, political regulations and degrowth.

“These are all subjects that deserve a lot more attention – and that offer a lot of potential for genuine, positive change,” explains the Fashion Changer, leaving us with a sense of motivation and hope for the future.

Tickets for the Fashion Changers Conference are available online at: FASHIONCHANGERS.DE/KONFERENZ/DE

©Angelo Lamparelli

23 & 24 NOVEMBER 2022

SUPERSTUDIO PIÙ, MILAN

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

BACK IN THE GAME The return to physical get-togethers wasn’t the only priority for most tradeshows this year: fundamental decisions that will affect the future of fashion fairs and reveal their full impact in the months to come are also at the top of the agenda.

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Two years after Kingpins24 was initiated as a digital format, the organisers of denim tradeshow Kingpins and its founder Andrew Olah got back to business in a new location, Amsterdam’s SugarCity, with a physical event showcasing 600 brands and attracting over 1,200 visitors. This clearly set the tone for the second post-pandemic event, which took place from 19-20 October.

And staying on the topic of denim: Denim Première Vision celebrated its premiere in Berlin this May. Awaiting the visitors were not only 80 exhibitors and a new line-up – consisting of the Marketplace, physical and digital talks as well as space for fashion trends and seminars – but also a presentation of trends and technological innovations for the autumn/winter 23/24 season.

In November, the tradeshow will be heading to Milan to showcase the latest developments in the world of denim.

Ready and raring to go, Munich Fabric Start (MFS) and its international denim fair Bluezone returned as a physical event for its 50th anniversary edition at the end of August, beginning of September. With the launch of its new format The Source as a one-stop solution, the event covered its largest total exhibition space to date: 45,000 m². Now fully back on track, they’ll be following up with View at the end of November and MFS and Bluezone at the end of January 2023.

Fashion fair Premium also made an impressive comeback this July. With its formats Premium, Seek and the recently launched D2C event The Ground, the organisers celebrated their physical tradeshow comeback in the new location of Messe Berlin. But there’s no time to rest on their laurels as the next edition is already in the planning stages and will take place in January 2023 during Berlin Fashion Week.

New city with a new licensee: Neonyt is bidding farewell to Frankfurt am Main and will be pitching its (tradeshow) tents in the Rhine metropolis of Düsseldorf in January 2023. The sustainable format is being initiated by the new licensee of Igedo Company parallel to Fashn Rooms and will once again include Fashionsustain as an integral part of the event.

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Munich

24 — 26 January 2023

munichfabricstart.com

FABRICS OF THE FUTURE

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

MUNICH FABRIC START

Every year, international fabric fair Munich Fabric Start brings the fashion industry together and unites fabric manufacturers, brands and experts in one place, putting the spotlight on the latest fabric trends and innovations. Taking place from 24-26 January 2023, the next edition will showcase the latest trends for spring/summer 24/25 within the various creative areas.

TEXT KRISTIN WALZEL

with international industry insiders. At the special Sustainable Innovations presentation area, visitors can discover innovative new approaches that will inspire them to rethink the future of fabrics. From ‘Biotic’ – environmentally friendly fabrics made from living microorganisms – to leather alternatives made from withered flowers down to soft robotics.

Once again, Munich Fabric Start will showcase 900 exhibitors and around 1,500 collections covering eight areas: Fabrics and Additionals with international material innovations for all clothing segments, Resource and Sustainable Innovations for the most innovative textile developments, Design Studios with fabric designs and new innovations for prints on an extended area, innovation hub Keyhouse, denim powerhouse Bluezone and new sourcing area The Source for international, vertical integration.

For sourcing platform Resource, the space has been completely redesigned and will showcase the latest fabric trends such as certified organic, plant-based, recycled, circular fabrics and accessories, or those made from regenerative sources. And once again in the Keyhouse, the innovation hub of Munich Fabric Start, a variety of pioneering technologies from the textile and fabric sector will be shown. On over 1,000 m², forward-looking showcases and sustainable innovations will be presented from the sectors of sustainability, digitalisation, traceability, technology and finishing. This is also where visitors will find Munich Fabric Start’s main lecture forum with exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions and expert talks

MUNICHFABRICSTART.COM

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With progressive content, innovative formats and new areas and partnerships, Munich Fabric Start has been leading the way for years now. What really sets the fair apart is its different formats: Bluezone, Keyhouse, The Source and View.

In addition to these formats, Munich Fabric Start is organising the exclusive preview concept View Premium Selection from 29-30 November where the first developments for spring/summer 24/25 will be presented in the unique atmosphere of the MVG Museum, a public transportation museum. “Full of inspiration and as early in the season as possible – View Premium Selection is our exclusive preview concept. From 29-30 November 2022, we are making a trend statement and offering buyers and designers of high-end ready-to-wear clothing from throughout Europe a handpicked selection of premium-quality fabric and accessories collections from the different areas Fabrics, Additionals, Design Studios, Denim and Sportswear.

The event is becoming a key fixture on the tradeshow calendar.

We’ve already received a good number of registrations and are expecting the MVG Museum to be fully booked,” explains Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH.

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TRADESHOW PREVIEW

PERFORMANCE DAYS Munich

3 — 4 November 2022

performancedays.com

FUNCTION MEETS SUSTAINABILITY Functional fabrics and sporty fashion are at the core of this platform dedicated to functional textiles, yarns, components and accessories for sportswear and workwear. Every six months, Performance Days showcases only sustainable materials and fabrics and offers its visitors a comprehensive tradeshow with high-quality textile manufacturers. The coming edition on 3 and 4 November 2022 will be taking place for the first time at the MOC Ordercenter in Munich.

TEXT KRISTIN WALZEL

Once again the focus is on sustainability. As well as the tradeshow format in Germany, they are also behind the Functional Fabric Fair powered by Performance Days in the USA, in New York City and Portland, and Functional Textiles Shanghai by Performance Days in China.

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For the first time, the upcoming event from 3-4 November 2022 is welcoming its visitors at a new venue and presenting sustainable textiles at the MOC Ordercenter in Munich. For the winter edition, the award winners of the winter 2024/25 season will present their fabric highlights and accessories trends for winter 2024/25 in the Performance Forum. “We want to enable our visitors to make the best decisions when it comes to choosing materials, also in terms of CO2 neutrality and, at the end of the day, also textile circularity,” says Marco Weichert, CEO of Performance Days. In the Performance Forum, visitors will find an inspiring overview of sustainable and new materials, trends and innovations by the exhibitors.

To digitally present the haptic, design and structure of the fabrics to the visitors as realistically as possible, the Performance Forum has been equipped with innovative 3D technology. This includes innovative tools like 3D images, video animations and U3MA files for download. In the Marketplace, visitors will have the opportunity to browse over 19,000 products by the exhibitors, including the fabric highlights from the individual categories of the Performance Forum. At the upcoming event, the portfolio of fabric trends ranges from the recycling of marine waste like old buoys, plastic waste or fishing nets to the upcycling of waste from the automobile and computer sector.

Thanks to new online platform The Loop, it is now possible to follow the tradeshow digitally and stay informed about all the important news, current trends and material innovations throughout the year.

PERFORMANCEDAYS.COM

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4 – 6 | 2 | 2023 OFFENBACH

AT THE LEADING FAIR FOR LEATHER GOODS, BAGS AND ACCESSORIES.

BECOME VISITOR NOW WW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE/EN/VISITING

#ILMOFFENBACH WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE

EDITION #157

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION Milano

23 — 24 November 2022

denimpremierevision.com

BIG BIRTHDAY BASH IN MILANO At its upcoming event on 23 and 24 November, Denim Première Vision will be celebrating its 15th anniversary. For this occasion, the tradeshow is returning to Milan, following its summer edition in Berlin. Together with Fabio Adami Dalla Val, we discuss the advantages of Milan and take a glimpse at the coming event.

TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

The crème de la crème of the denim industry will be flocking to the upcoming edition of Denim Première Vision at Milan’s event venue Superstudio Più. And a special anniversary is on the cards: the internationally renowned tradeshow is celebrating its 15th birthday with a fully-packed, varied line-up for the spring/summer 2024 season.

FROM MILAN TO BERLIN AND BACK TO MILAN… After the last event, which took place last May in Berlin, it is returning to Milan for the next edition. The change of event location is being very well received and also keeps things creative and exciting, as Fabio Adami Dalla Val explains: “For our 15th anniversary, we are working to create the best and simplest environment to allow our partners to do business with a relaxed feel. The duality with Berlin is amazing because the two cities are similar in many aspects but at the same time totally different in terms of creativity and value chain presence, giving our partners the chance to be present in two of the most important European markets.” And there was another important

reason that brought the event back to the Italian metropolis, as he tells us: “The first two editions of Denim Première Vision in Milan confirmed our idea that leaders of the fashion industry (brands or producers) consider the city to be a hotspot where you need to be for business and to get inspired. In Milan you can explore shopping opportunities and visit incredible exhibitions and cultural highlights in one of the most sustainable cities in the EU. On our tour of the European fashion capitals that make sense for us, Milano is a must!”

CELEBRATE THE GOOD TIMES There is a huge sense of anticipation for the next edition event, where over 60 exhibitors – all leaders in the global creative denim industry – from 14 countries including Italy, Japan, Spain, Turkey, Morocco, Bangladesh and Pakistan will be presenting their latest developments and innovations. As well as the valuable networking opportunities with key denim players, the accompanying line-up also has a few surprises in store to mark the upcoming anniversary. Informative talk panels will cover key topics like sustainability, digitisation and production, which are becoming increasingly relevant within the industry. During the Denim Trend Tasting and Digital Live Sourcing, fashion seminars will be conducted online and at the show by the Denim Première Vision fashion team. New additions include the three forums, which will be taking place instead of the previous Trends Agora, where the denim trends for spring/summer 2024 will be presented in the form of selected fabrics, accessories and finished products, accompanied by photos and immersive videos. For the second time in a row, The Denim Fashion District will be presenting ten ready-to-wear and accessories brands that will preview their collections created in partnership with show exhibitors. Special workshops and events will round off the event. In honour of their upcoming birthday, there will also be a cocktail reception on the first day, in partnership with Turkish denim specialist Isko. We say: “Salute!” and wish the team all the best for future Denim Première Vision events. By the way: after Milan, they will be returning to Berlin again from 31 May until 1 June 2023.

DENIM.PREMIEREVISION.COM

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17 — 19 January 2023

premium-group.com

PHOTO JAN KAPITAEN

Berlin

CELEBRATING IN STYLE – 20 YEARS OF PREMIUM

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

PREMIUM

The events of the Premium Group will be taking place during Berlin Fashion Week once again, true to Anita Tillmann’s motto for 2023: “Alone we’re faster, but together we can go further”.

Visitors can look forward to shorter walking distances for visitors, improved navigation on the tradeshow grounds, all-new and improved segmen­tation of the exhibitors and big birthday vibes to celebrate Premium’s 20-year anniversary!

20 years of PREMIUM! Are there any particular highlights that you can let us in on?

Our 20-year anniversary will be taking centre stage as the main highlight. We’re going to pull out all the stops and celebrate in style! Miss it and miss out! We’re already working on condensed content formats to enable us to offer our exhibitors and visitors something new over the three days, including content that is as structured as possible. Following our successful relaunch in summer, CONSCIOUS CLUB will also be taking place again alongside PREMIUM and SEEK. Fortunately, the CC community and the demand for brands, content and contacts around the theme of sustainability are growing, which is why there’ll also be an extended line-up here. The next generation of booth presentations and brand activations will be shown at SEEK and PREMIUM and will also showcase innovative retail pop-ups.

The Premium Group has established itself as a solid and reliable partner, something that the industry needs more than ever these days. How are you supporting your exhibitors and partners for the coming seasons? And where does an institution like the Premium Group need support?

We are an extremely strong partner, but also a motivator that tries to actively drive forward not only individual players, but also the industry as a whole. It’s important to us to stand by our exhibitors from the start and to offer them added value. That begins with creative booth design and production and continues with our support in finding the right marketing and press partners and connecting exhibitors with the right sales agencies and distributors. We are also investing large sums in the activation and invitation of buyers and retailers from all over the world.

We don’t just curate brands, however, but also research relevant topics beforehand so we can present them to the industry in a compact format.

Jörg Arntz, Managing Director and Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the Premium Group

But we also need support, especially positive voices and other motivators in the market. As I just mentioned, our success is based on us all joining forces and working together. Retailers, both nationally and internationally, need to be motivated and we should all pool our strengths to do that. It’s important to do the groundwork prior to the events. We need the brands to support us by contacting their buyers in advance and inviting and informing them. The media can also help us by reporting on the brands’ new products prior to the event. There’s so much to see at our different formats and it’s important that visitors are given all the information they need ahead of time too. As a tradeshow, that isn’t something we can do on our own. Everything is in state of upheaval, there are so many topics and the specialist media are the only sources of information. Curiosity and hype are ideally generated before the events because at the events themselves we are too busy celebrating in style – we are experts at that! The main thing is that everyone pulls together in the best way they can.

Tradeshows certainly haven’t had it easy these past two years.

What are your hopes for next year?

I hope that a lot of well-known and new brands decide to exhibit with us and present their products to the industry in an innovative and creative way. And that, with the retailers, they will come together to plan the future. At the same time, I would love it if a lot of national and international retailers came along, also with their young staff. Of course, I would also love the media to actively get behind us! At the end of the day, it all comes down to strengthening Germany on the international market and a bit of support in this would be great. We’re all part of the industry and we can all do our bit to drive forward its success.

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INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

PREMIUM-GROUP.COM

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TRADESHOW PREVIEW

NEONYT & FASHN ROOMS Düsseldorf

28 — 30 January 2023

neonyt.messefrankfurt.com

KICK-OFF IN DÜSSELDORF Ever since it was established, Neonyt has established itself as one of the most relevant B2B community platforms for fashion, sustainability and innovation, so far taking place in Paris, Berlin and Frankfurt. The tradeshow format has now joined forces with Igedo Company and will be represented in Düsseldorf from January 2023.

TEXT KRISTIN WALZEL

Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director of Igedo

the professional visitors, there will be a combined ticket for both events,” says Ulrike Kähler.

PHOTO DITA-VOLLMOND

While the focus of the Fashionsustain conference is on sustainability with fascinating discussion forums and panel talks, content creators can take part in community talks and workshops at Prepeek The Stories, covering all topics related to responsible and sustainable practices in everyday life. All of the fair’s exhibitors undergo a thorough sustainability check, which, as well as the fashionable curation of their collections, is a requirement for participating in the event. As an add-on to the summer edition, Igedo Company is once again planning a showcase and will present sustainable innovations on stage.

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Now that Igedo Company has taken over Neonyt, it will be responsible for the operative planning and implementation of the fair in Düsseldorf in the coming year. “It is incredibly important to us all that Neonyt gets off to a successful start.

That’s why Messe Frankfurt is doing everything it can to support Igedo Company for the kick-off in Düsseldorf. It will be helping to keep the Neonyt community regularly informed about the highlights of the event in Düsseldorf via its relevant communication channels,” explains Igedo’s Managing Director Ulrike Kähler.

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Both partners are very keen to establish Neonyt as a key platform for fashion, sustainability and innovation in Düsseldorf.

To do this, the show will be taking place at the Areal Böhler.

The Fashionsustain conference will remain in the capable hands of the Messe Frankfurt team. “Neonyt, which is licensed

by Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH, will take place as a standalone fair at the Areal Böhler – it will have its own hall with the corresponding CI and a separate entrance. But the buyers attending Fashn Rooms can also visit Neonyt and vice versa.

To increase the synergy effect and make access easier for

The Düsseldorf Fashion Days, which see around 600 local showrooms with around 1,000 national and international fashion brands opening their doors, are taking place at the same time as the upcoming Neonyt, which can only prove beneficial for both events.

NEONYT.MESSEFRANKFURT.COM IGEDO.COM

PERFORMANCEDAYS

NOV 03-04, 2022 MOC MUNICH & ONLINE

! t e k c i t ee r f r u o Get y

THE SUSTAINABLE SOURCING FAIR FOR FUNCTIONAL FABRICS & ACCESSORIES performancedays.com

OPINION PIECE

GIVING PEOPLE LIKE YE A PLATFORM IS EVERYTHING THAT’S WRONG WITH THE FASHION INDUSTRY No doubt you’ve already heard the news about Ye, the artist formerly known as Kanye West? As the fashion month draws to a close, what better time for another scandal? Enter Ye!

TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN

When I first heard the news about his ‘White Lives Matter’ T-shirts, all I saw was the sheer ignorance of an incredibly self-absorbed man who has taken it upon himself to ridicule a global movement with historical consequences via a pseudo-Kafkaesque message on tees presented in his recent runway show at Paris Fashion Week.

Saying that ‘White Lives Matter’ – and there is no room for debate here – is highly dangerous.

Disclaimer: this isn’t a discussion of whose lives matter more. The whole point of the actual slogan ‘Black Lives Matter’ is not to suggest a scale of worth, but to condemn racist thought and behavioural structures and to acknowledge the equality and inclusion of black people, of People of Colour in general. Anyone who doesn’t understand that and chooses to retaliate by emblazoning the counter slogan on a T-shirt has well and truly missed the point.

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“[…] Now more than ever, voices like hers are needed […]”

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It’s unfathomable to me how a man from the affected minority isn’t choosing to use his voice to stand up for those who have no voice, but, in his state of hubris, believes himself to be so artistically superior that he can do and say whatever he wants.

Ye is playing with a fire that he won’t be able to put out. Provocatively jostling your way into the fashion spotlight with an insensitive statement that is used psychologically by right-wing groups

(and not only in the USA), but also (consciously or unwittingly) sympathising with it, is, in my eyes, grossly negligent.

Is this everything that’s wrong with the fashion industry? The fact that we are giving someone like him a platform and the attention that he so desperately craves?

But to bring my rant – and that’s exactly what this is – to a close, I would actually like to highlight everything that is right in the fashion industry. Because we are also seeing a lot of good out there too, especially in response to Ye’s recent behaviour. Such as the collective outrage that is leading to solidarity: like Vogue Fashion Editor-at-Large Gabriella Karefa-Johnson who eloquently and confidently spoke out against West and his ideology, resulting in him hurling a barrage of insults at her online. Or model Gigi Hadid, who, on Instagram at least, sprung to Gabriella KarefaJohnson’s defence – and was also publicly blasted by him. Or Vogue, which published an official statement on the Gabriella KarefaJohnson versus Ye dispute, positioning itself clearly on the side of its editors. And Adidas, who – after all the plagiarism accusations against them (not to mention the ensuing controversy) – are finally distancing themselves from the rapper-turned-designer with the following statement: “Successful partnerships are rooted in mutual respect and shared values”.

Respect and values. Something that Ye doesn’t seem to have a need for in his life. In fast succession, his controversial antics (the MAGA cap, his support of Trump, the threats of violence towards his ex-wife’s new partner, his pro-life stance, his anti-Semitic remarks on Twitter and now also the T-shirt debacle) go way beyond mere provocation. They are a slap in the face for most of us. In an interview that he gave to US channel Fox News (cough, cough) shortly after his show, he said: “So the answer to why I wrote ‘White Lives Matter’ on a shirt is: because they do. It’s an obvious thing”. And he also thought the idea of him, as a black man, wearing it was funny. Ha. Ha.

PHOTO TWITTER.COM – @ITSARKANGEL

Known for stirring controversy wherever he goes, Ye is one of those famous personalities who, while well-aware of their huge reach, is unable to understand just how much damage they are capable of causing. Although some unthinking consumers of pop culture are still celebrating him for the mere sake of it, more and more people are starting to realise that the once-lauded musician, on top of his mental illness (which, of course, should be taken seriously), is also veering into megalomania.

GOOD VIBES AUF DER SHOES DÜSSELDORF Good mood. Good climate.

The footwear world at home in Düsseldorf SHOES DÜSSELDORF at Areal Böhler is where the Who‘s Who of the industry meets.

The strong presence of German and inter-

SEE & ORDER AREAL BÖHLER SHOES-DUESSELDORF.COM

national brands reflects how highly coveted SHOES DÜSSELDORF is. The appealingly curated ranges and the Areal Böhler’s openplan, pleasant atmosphere is received very well by both exhibitors and visitors.

Also in focus at SHOES DÜSSELDORF: sustainability with all its facets from manufacturing to the product and displaying it at the POS. The high-class accompanying program with exciting talks and trend lectures offers numerous ideas for the order, but also a lot of inspiration beyond the horizon.

Due to the very complex and tight calendar of the shoe industry, the opening hours for the runtime days in March will be slightly adjusted.

05-06 March 2023 9.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.

07 March 2023 9.30 a.m. to 3.00 p.m.

5|6|7 March 2023

wearegarcia.com