J'N'C Magazine 3/2018 by J'N'C Magazine

No 73 / 3-2018

JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION

No 73 / 3-2018

Fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got attitude: working together For a better tomorrow

D 15.50 EuR Rest of euRope 17.50 euR switzeRland 20.00 CHf

from ego to eco

ENGLISH

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P L E AT E D W I D E PA N T S

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3â&#x20AC;&#x201D;5 JULY 2018

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CONNECTING COMMUNITIES

Editorial

J'N'C t o p i C s

sustainaBility is the Way to go roundtaBle amsterdam 90s styles runWay trends

Contributors

Thorsten Osterberger & team

Carl Jakob Haupt Co-Founder dandy diary Carl Jakob Haupt is one of the brains behind Germany’s most provocative fashion blog, whose parties during Berlin Fashion Week have achieved cult status. In this issue of J’N’C, Haupt, who has a degree in political science, is having his say on the subject of greenwashing (page 58).

Silke Bücker Journalist & Creative direCtor The fashion expert and freelance journalist lives and works in Cologne. Her passion for fashion makes her the perfect choice to write this issue’s lead article about the shift in values in the fashion industry, sustainability and fair trade (page 28).

Frank Widemann PhotograPher Frank was born in Teheran, grew up in Hong Kong, studied photography in London and meanwhile lives in Munich. For our cover story he has portrayed sustainable fashion in its best light – and the result is a far cry from its outdated eco image (page 44).

MICHaeL MaNN

It’s time. Time for a change in values, something the world is in urgent need of. A new generation is stepping up, taking the future in their own hands. They want to do away with the massive destruction of the environment and the unthinking wastage of resources. And as is often the case when it comes to seismic change, it comes almost imperceptibly – you see it coming only out of the corner of your eye, in the behaviour of people, their appearance, their conﬁdence and not least, their fashion. As part of our “Fashion’s got Attitude” special, we are taking a closer look at the shift in values in the fashion business, talking with the industry’s decision-makers and asking which approach they feel is best for their company in order to meet today’s challenges sustainability and fair trade. In our editorial, guest author Silke Bücker is providing an in-depth overview of brands, labels, manufacturers and organisations that have made sustainability one of their guiding principles, as well as taking a look at the expected market developments. In our interviews, we are talking to founders of internet platforms that only offer sustainable products. In addition, you will ﬁnd a rough & ready A-Z of all the relevant keywords regarding sustainability. Our round-table discussion with the most important Turkish denim manufacturers will also be focusing, among other topics, on sustainability, as well as on the latest developments in production. In our column, “Dandy Diary” founder Carl Jakob Haupt is getting worked up about the phenomenon of “greenwashing”, and in our cover editorial we are showcasing green fashion with Scandinavian understatement. PLUS: A fashion editorial featuring upcoming designers, set on the periphery of Paris Fashion Week — — Inspiring runway looks — — J’N’C goes NYC: street style meets classics — — Michi Beck from German band Die Fantastischen Vier on his new label. We hope this issue will inspire you to strike out on a new path with sustainable fashion,

contents 08

EDITORIAL

CONTENTS

Bits & Pieces: NEWS ON CLOSED, MAC, JACK & JONES, G-LAB, SUPRA, TRIANGLE AND PIECES

most WanteD MUST-HAVES & FAVOURITES

statements 1: DECISION-MAKERS ABOUT THEIR CONTRIBUTION TO A MORE SUSTAINABLE INDUSTRy

interviews: WE TALKED TO THE FOUNDERS OF GREEN PLATFORMS

A-Z of sustainability, p60

cover Photography: Frank Widemann Styling: Elcin Aiser Hair & Make up: Daniel Eisenmann & Nadja Kaiser Model: Isabel L. & Erik K.

fashion shoot: from ego to eco

column: CARL JAKOB HAUPT TALKS ABOUT GREENWASHING

a–Z: A BRIEF ALPHABET OF SUSTAINABILITy

statements : DECISION-MAKERS ABOUT THEIR GREENER WAyS

From ego to eco, p44

essay: your choice matters

fashion shoot: 90s vibes

round taBle: KEy PLAyERS OF THE DENIM INDUSTRy MEET IN AMSTERDAM

feature: SILVER JEANS

feature: KILIMDENIM

trends: RUNWAy INSPIRATIONS THE HOTTEST TRENDS OF AW18

100

114

fashion shoot: turn on the sWag ten questions: MICHI BECK ABOUT HIS NEW LABEL BECKTOBECK

Most wanted, p18

Liesegangstraße 17 40211 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211.830 30 Fax +49 (0)211.830 32 00

info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de Publishing management Nikola Köster, Kathrin Wimber associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

eDitorial DePartment Chausseestraße 116 10115 Berlin Germany eDitor-in-chief Thorsten Osterberger t.osterberger@jnc-net.de art Director Ivo Wojcik

eDiting assistant Nils Jürgens coPy eDitors Cloat Gerold, Galina Green contributors Silke Bücker, Carl Jakob Haupt, Mirjam Smend

chief subeDitor Cloat Gerold

PhotograPhy Andreas Knaub, Stephane Mounet, Marco Trunz, Bernd Wichmann, Frank Widemann

eDitors Cheryll Mühlen, Renée Diehl (Assistant)

translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de

aDvertising Director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211.830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de bank Details BTV Bank für Tirol und Vorarlberg AG IBAN DE25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 SWIFT BTVADE61XXX Price Germany 15.50 EUR Rest of Europe 17.50 EUR Switzerland 20.00 CHF Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern

Data Protection notice In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The subscriber can appeal against this guideline. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, contents, clothing or products. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business is Düsseldorf and the place of jurisdiction is Munich in all cases.

LOGOTyPE: MARTIN STEINIGEN

Publisher EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

DISCOVER OUR NEW SPRING / SUMMER COLLECTION PANORAMA, BERLIN: 03.–05.07.18 HALLE 29, DÜSSELDORF: 21.–23.07.18 MODEFABRIEK, AMSTERDAM: 08.–09.07.18 GALLERY SHOES, DÜSSELDORF: 02.–04.09.18 WWW.CAMELACTIVE.DE

HALL 4.1, 4.01

bits & pieces

bits pieces Don'T Worry – be happy

TExT RenÉe DieHL

farah Stripes, prints and colour gradients – the British men’s fashion label is remaining true to itself in the SS19 season, presenting a bold mix of styles. As always, polo shirts are in the mix, and have become somewhat of a British classic, as well as Harrington jackets and a selection of different sweatshirts and T-shirts. The trousers come in a casual chino style or as shorts. A bright red trouser suit provides an extra pop of colour and fun. farah.co.uk

colours of The sea

closed For its SS19 collection, the Hamburg denim label was inspired by two strong women: the first female pilot to fly alone from England to Australia, Amy Johnson, and photographer Viviane Sassen, known for her bright colours and geometric shapes. There will be two drops: the first with an aviator vibe in blue, green and yellow and the second with striking logos and prints in ultraviolet, black and red.

ichi Danish label Ichi is seeking a return to femininity. Their upcoming collection is ultra-feminine and a tribute to the sea and the beach. Dominating the designs are maxi dresses and skirts in natural nuances, whether with scattered ﬂowers or maxi prints, while braids with mother-of-pearl trimmings are reminiscent of the interior of a shell, and polka dots and ﬁligree broderie anglaise underline the female look. In combination with blazers in blue country checks, loose summer suits and culottes, the romantic look is taking on a cool, grown-up feel.

closed.com

webshop.ichi.biz

fancy flighT

3 – 5 JULY 2018 HALL

INNATEX INSIDE PANORAMA BERLIN // MESSE BERLIN XOOM-BERLIN.DE

SAVE THE DATE FOR INNATEX 43 28 – 30 JULY 2018 MESSECENTER RHEIN -MAIN INNATEX.DE

BUYERS LOUNGE MEET THE GREEN FASHION MAKERS INNATEX – INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES MESSECENTER RHEIN-MAIN // HOFHEIM-WALLAU

ORGANIZER:

bits & pieces

for The fresh princess pieces Modernity and simple design: the Scandinavian accessories label, founded in 2003 as part of the Danish fashion group Bestseller, combines both. Their collections are aimed at the young, independent woman who prefers basics with an on-trend twist. The SS19 collection looks fresh and is very easy to wear with unique highlights and the intentional combination of vibrant tones with simple silhouettes.

heriTage Versus high-Tech

pieces.com

delta X mammut Swiss outdoor specialist Mammut is combining functionality with urban design for its new Delta x collection. It combines mountaineering, the brand’s alpine heritage, with ‘urbaneering’ to equip the wearer for mountaineering and hiking, as well as everyday life in the city. Delta x is based on materials like technical laminate, which is produced by bonding and laser cutting, and ‘Mammut Georganic 3D Technology’, specially developed for extreme sports. The jacket models of the series can easily handle changeable weather conditions and wind. mammut.com

a gaMe of Tones

G-lab women The brand is proving that rainwear can be urban and stylish with the new pieces of its ladies’ collection for SS19. The three new jacket models come in soft linen, a selection of timeless colours such as midnight blue, jade, powder and coral and with pink metal fasteners. Our favourite: the straight-cut coat with side slits, perfectly rounding off the drop with an oversized parka cape and a college jacket.

trianGle Whether plain or print, the SS19 collection by Triangle is, above all, one thing: colourful! Particularly important here are strong colours in various shades of red and pink, yellow and purple as well as green and blue nuances on a background of neutral shades such as black, beige and khaki. A particular emphasis of the plaincoloured garments is placed on exciting structures and cuts, while the items with large-format prints are more likely to have minimal silhouettes. The jeans now also come in a whole host of new ﬁts, including casual carrot shapes, boyfriend and wide leg variations, as well as kick ﬂares.

G-lab.com

trianGle-fashion.de

spring basics

bits & pieces

the wearable lightneSS of being

s4 jackets Bremen-based label S4 Jackets is dedicated to the perfect outfit for men. Their upcoming SS19 collection is made up of the classic blouson as the core element in combination with ultralong parkas with extra volume, long coats with belts and the return of the field jacket. From colour blocking to neutral tones – men of all ages and styles should find what they are looking for and will be well dressed and well equipped for whatever comes their way. Lightweight fabrics continue to play an important role and are enhanced by sporty elements such as drawstrings, eyelets and ties. s4-jackets.com

Striking StripeS supra Ever since it was established in 2006, the Californian label has been skilfully combining streetwear with skatewear elements. And for SS19 the brand is focusing on footwear, ranging from slip-ons and low-top skate shoes down to hip-hop-inspired hi-tops for everyday wear. Expressive prints dominate the look here, and also the slip-on models are predominantly available in bright colours. In the apparel line, the gender boundaries have been eradicated and the brand is propagating a modern unisex look with wide silhouettes in washed-out colours, camouﬂage patterns and large logo prints.

mac-jeans.com

suprafootwear.com

mac The modern Mac woman is cosmopolitan and openminded: the new SS19 collection impresses with African and South American elements, as well as pastel colours and neutrals mixed with eye-popping highlights. Lilac, light blue, mint and gold run through the entire product range. Denim also remains an important

focus of the collection, with the ‘True Blue’ series representing sustainability in its reduced use of water and chemicals. The ‘Dream Vision’ model comes in a new two-way stretch fabric that offers both comfort and modern style, while the innovative ‘Light Techno PA’ offers lightweight, structured polyamide materials.

after the gold ruSh

bits & pieces

urban eco sTyles noa noa Danish womenswear label Noa Noa is demonstrating great innovative spirit in its pre-spring capsule collection ‘On This Note’. Exciting looks have been created from sustainable, mostly new materials, which, in comparison to the regular collection, however, make no compromises in terms of design or

pricing. The only ‘conventional’ ﬁbre in the collection is 100% organic cotton, which is increasingly being mixed with innovative fabrics. For example, maize ﬁbres have been woven with silk fabrics or fabrics made of banana leaves and soybeans. Some of the new fabrics are as soft as cashmere, but much less harmful to the environment.

noanoa.com

yesTerDay once More jack & jones ‘Yesterday is now’ is the motto of the upcoming collection by the popular menswear label. Authentic washes like indigo and selvedge from the 1950s are playing an important role. Nor is there an end to the 90s trend, which is all about distressed denim and extreme stone washes. The cuts are mainly relaxed, wide at the top and tapered or cropped at the bottom. Best styled in a headto-to-toe look, for example with canvas shoes or a denim jacket with sherpa lining.

Mrs & Mr TraVelisTa

jackjones.com

toms At footwear brand Toms, the motto for summer 2019 is mobility and travel. Their ‘Trvl Lite’ collection for men has been especially designed for an active lifestyle and will also be available for women for the ﬁrst time in SS19. A special feature of these models is the lightweight sole with OrthoLite Eco x40 inners for added comfort. Meanwhile, ﬂat sandals remain a key look for women, which is why Toms is offering their widest selection of this style to date. Handmade details and innovative materials are the common denominator of comfort, style and quality. shoptoms.de

L A B L E S T O WAT C H

celia solf

alYX

balenciaGa

aleX eaGle

kiko kostadinow

kar

FREELANCE CREATIVE CONSULTANT FOR THE STORE X SOHO HOUSE

One of my favourite brands, named after the beautiful daughter of my friends, the designers Matthew Williams and his wife Jennifer. The signature belt is almost addictive, the backpack a must-have and the shoe collab with Roa hiking boots carries me through Berlin winters.

Still just fabulous. Creative Director Demna Gvasalia keeps on surprising us every season with styles that you can’t resist – from caps and socks to jeans, T-shirts, hoodies, jackets and coats. Wait – also shoes, jewellery and underwear. I just can't wait to see the next collection.

Classic tops and dresses with elegant silhouettes make for a perfect ouﬁt – at work, for dinner or even a spontaneous event after. I'm especially in love with the silk pieces and I'm also very excited about the suits that will be arriving at The Store in Berlin very soon.

Kiko’s ﬁne taste in cuts and colours really show his background. Not only the RTW – the sneaker collaboration with Asics – caused attention all over. I don’t think I ever got asked so often where that model is from. He’ll soon be releasing a collab with Camper – watch out for it!

You have to visit Arhur Kar’s garage in Paris to understand why this brand is so cool. I’m proud that we carry the brand, as they only work with a few very selected stores worldwide and mostly due to a string of personal relationships. We are planning a T-shirt collaboration soon ...

Celia Solf was born in Munich and has been living in Berlin for the last ten years. She is strongly connected to the international fashion, art and music scene. No wonder the whole town shows up to party, when she hosts events at The Store.

PhotograPhy AndreAs KnAuB aD & styliNg KAthArinA Willim text thorsten osterBerger

most wanted

dawndenim.com J'N'C PreseNts

SuStainable it-PieceS, MuSt-HaveS, FavouriteS

CHIC FOR EVERY OCCASION

“We believe it’s possible to make the perfect pair of jeans without compromising on design, quality or responsible production,” say the three founders of denim brand Dawn. their vision of producing jeans globally and responsibly at a good price was a challenge but it’s been a resounding success and they meanwhile even have their own factory in vietnam. inspired by icons of the 90s such as Salt´n´Pepper and Gwen Stefani, streetstyle elements, sporty piping and panel seams, as well as high-waisted ﬁts with tapered and straight legs dominate the designs. our highlight of the collection: the denim skinny jeans in electric blue with water-resistant zippers.

FEEL THINK ACT Join the Hub for Fashion and Innovation 3 - 5 July 2018, Kraftwerk Berlin

most wanted

feuervogl.de ROCkIN' THE STYlE

Sustainability and transparency both play a major role at Feuervogl, a label that specialises in trouser collections made of organic denim and organic cotton – obviously in accordance with the GotS standard. With its headquarters in Germany and production facilities in Poland, the label can also boast the “Made in europe” distinction. For the SS19 season, the brand is further expanding its expertise in eco denim with new looks and materials. our collection favourite is a cropped and frayed denim jacket with destroyed effects and a “true blue” wash – a piece with the ultimate rock’n’roll appeal.

most wanted

ecoalf.com

Ecoalf is one of the pioneers of the sustainable fashion industry and, since 2018, also the first Spanish label to be awarded the b corp certificate. Which isn’t really surprising considering that ecoalf always has plenty of new ideas up its sleeve, like its most recent styles made from recycled coffee. this approach to sustainability is also more than apparent in our current favourite, the ocean Waste Sneaker. the name says it all: its uppers are made exclusively of plastic bottles fished from the oceans, and its soles are made of seaweed. and best of all: not only is it helping to save the oceans, but it’s also beautiful to look at and as comfortable as walking on water.

WAlkING ON WATER

most wanted

BEST BuddY as one of the pioneers of the sustainability movement, the californian brand Patagonia has long since reached its peak when it comes to credibility. they specialise in durable and well-designed functional clothing that cuts a good ﬁgure on the hiking trail as well as in the urban jungle, and its popularity just keeps on growing – even luxury fashion houses like online retailer Mr Porter now also have the jackets in their range. our current favourite: the Houdini slim-ﬁt, nylon ripstop hooded jacket. it’s a loyal companion whichever road you choose to take: the feather-light jacket will keep you snug and protected from wind, snow or drizzle. as soon as the sun comes back out, it can be stowed in the front pocket with a practical carabiner.

patagonia.com 22

most wanted

QuAlITY AT ITS BEST

in 2004, Leander Riedl started his design project with a focus on the core values of quality and exclusivity. He meticulously develops styles made of leather – a small, high-quality but constantly growing collection that includes bags and small leather goods, produced fairly and transparently in Germany. the cuts are reduced, the shapes clear and the pieces timeless and extremely durable. customers can choose from the ﬁnest leather and are more than happy to wait patiently for their orders. new to the range: a sleek backpack with clean lines and gentle curves, making it perfect for him or for her. an elegant accessory that deﬁnitely has what it takes to become a status symbol.

leanderriedl.com most wanted

most wanted

lacoste.com MOdERN MINIMAlISM instead of following trends, the now famous green label Armedangels focuses on timeless fashion. Whether cotton farmers in india, seamstresses in turkey or their it team in cologne â&#x20AC;&#x201C; armedangels is committed to fair working conditions and fair pay for its employees. certiďŹ cates from independent organisations such as Fairtrade, GotS and Fair Wear guarantee sustainable production facilities. the looks by this sustainable company are modern and minimalist: in the SS19 collection, retro vibes meet romantic prints and warm colours. and of course the athleisure trend also makes an obligatory appearance: block stripes skilfully create a contrast between vintage and futurism for a very urban look.

armedangels.de 26

PhotograPhy assistaNt mAx von reumont

ART INSTALLATION BY ANSELM REYLE

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your choice mat ters

#yourchoicematters

Ecoalf

your choice mat ters

Fashion protects, fashion adorns, fashion is a statement. It is an expression of an individual or collective attitude to life, the reaction to a social status quo. And especially in times of upheaval and radical change, such as we are experiencing at the moment, fashion is increasingly becoming the bearer of messages. The constant deluge of stimulation from viral media has catapulted us, both conceptually and structurally, into the age of ‘anything goes’. TExT Silke Bücker

sLoW DoWN Creative anarchy? Definitely. After all, we need self-assured inspiration and provocative boundaries in order to prevent fashion from losing itself in banality and uniformity for the sake of commercialism – only to propagate the latest trends. Just as Li Edelkoort warned in her ‘Fashion is dead’ manifesto in 2015: fashion is experiencing devaluation across the board; speed and the quest for profit have killed all creativity and fashion is at risk of descending into insignificance and losing its function as social commentary. Ever since brands like Vetements, sacai, marni and Balenciaga started to ascribe to avant-garde principles à la Martin Margiela or comme des Garçons, commercialisation has, to a certain extent, taken a change in direction – but in a good way. On the catwalks recently, we have once again been seeing compact collections with a strong vision and idea behind them – and are of the highest quality, both aesthetically and in terms of their workmanship. And just as the luxury industry has always had a ‘lighthouse’ role when it comes to the evolution of design, material and workmanship, it is now being called upon to be a shining example as far as ethical, social and environmentally relevant standards are concerned. Especially as the very meaning of the word ‘sustainability’ encapsulates all values that are inherent to the concept of luxury: durability, quality, reflection, expertise, time. A quick profit and record turnovers should no longer be the chief driving force. Especially not at the expensive of the demand summed up so succinctly by the Huffington Post: “We don’t need sustainable collections. We need a sustainable fashion industry.” “Sustainability should no longer be an added bonus. It needs to become

a matter of course. After all, there is no planet B,” emphasises Thimo Schwenzfeier, Show Director of Neonyt, the brandnew name under which the two green Berlin tradeshows Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show will be merged in the future, forming an international hub for sustainability, innovation and fashion. “Sustainability in fashion has developed from a ‘nice-to-have’ extra, to a synonym for innovation and progress,” he continues. “And that’s what they want to conﬁdently reﬂect with the new format.” The challenges of a fundamental revolutionary process should be seen as an opportunity.

rethiNK We shouldn’t forget that the fashion industry – aside from the oil industry – is currently the largest polluter in the world. It is responsible for an absolute oversupply, with labels producing up to 24 collections per year. And the result? In Germany alone, every year more than a million tonnes of textiles are ending up in clothing donation bins or simply in the household rubbish. And also in view of catastrophes like in Pakistan or Bangladesh, the alarming news of inhumane conditions in production facilities or the pollution of the world’s oceans, there is no alternative but a radical rethink. Sustainability has to become the common aim of a positively unfettered industry. But of course the basic tenets laid down during the heyday of industrialisation, which have been taken to the extreme during globalisation and digitalisation, are hard to just sweep away and replace by new structures and systems. Making radical changes to the fashion apparatus means tackling milestones like environmental protection, sourcing, process optimisation, logistics and supply chain transparency with competent and future-proof solutions. And these, in turn, may mean restrictions in the design, doing without profits and a clear, supportive commitment by everyone to the ‘less is more’ way of thinking. And these all need to be supported by politically adequate and realistic parameters. If you take a bird’s eye view of the industry, almost every company at the moment seems to be making an effort to provide ‘more sustainability’ in its different forms of expression. From the use of good old organic cotton to the emphasis of handcraftsmanship and tradition down to taking back used clothes for recycling. For now, this is a good thing as it shows an overall awareness of the issue, a sort of awakening. But it’s often hard to tell whether their attempts constitute consistent change or a half-hearted marketing ploy. “One first step towards steering the fashion industry in a more sustainable direction would be a national standard developed jointly by politics and the industry,” suggests Mandie Bienek, whose PR agency Press Factory repre-

ashion has become genderless, models are reﬂecting the stereotype of reality, classic beauty has served its time. Unconventional looks and nerdiness are now sexy. Diversity is the name of the game. Even some fashion shows are mutating into an excessive caricature of society – especially those of Vetements or Gucci, two of the most pioneering brands right now. Designers are countering this one-dimensionality and redundancy of trends with a cornucopia of styles, crass combinations, a wide variety of references, overstated silhouettes, innovative patchworks, pattern mixes and material blends: couture and streetwear, baroque and sixties, fur and denim, lime green and bright purple – there’s no right or wrong when it comes to mixing and matching. “I think that fashion, for a long time, has been in prison. I think, that without freedom, with rules, it’s impossible to create a new story,” is how Gucci’s Alessandro Michele sums up the maxims of this boundless freedom.

tors of the big fashion houses are often responsible for up to eight collections and more each year. For visionary and agent of change Raf Simons, this was reason enough to turn his back on the house of Christian Dior in 2015. His reasoning: he didn’t have suﬃcient time to really create anything substantial. The fact that nobody needs such an excess supply of fashion is shown by alarming statistics, like those of a Greenpeace study which discovered that around 5.2 billion items of clothing are hanging in German wardrobes, 40% of which are very rarely or never worn. With online platforms like Kleiderkreisel, Vestiaire Collective and Rebelle, the possibilities of selling fashion on have become much more varied and are at least keeping textiles in circulation – but at the same time they are also reinforcing the concept of rampant excess. As well as unfortunately underscoring the assumption that fashion, as predicted by Li Edelkoort, is no longer valued. Vestiaire Collective, for example, sells second-hand designer pieces. ‘Preloved fashion’ is the marketing term for it, a title that takes on an ironic slant when you enter a brand like Louis Vuitton into the search box and are presented with a total of 202,549 items, an estimated 75% of which are new, or as good as new. With principles aimed at instant desirability such as ‘see now – buy now’, an attempt by the leading luxury brands to take the wind out of the sales of high street copycats, the idea has run away with itself and become more or less futile.

create a story At the other end of the scale is the boom of fast fashion. Here, trend expertise and speed are responses to the thoughtless lust for shopping – spurred on in particular by the flood of images on social media and influencers as the new brand ambassadors. Industry giants like Inditex or the H&M Group are spewing out new sub-brands at what seems like almost every six months – after arket and Nyden, h&m has now come up with afound – an off-season concept focusing on discounted designer clothing and interior accessories. And just as blatantly as the ‘live slow, die old’ lifestyle is celebrated, especially in an urban context, ‘Generation Instagram’ hysterically falls for pretty much every consumer recommendation of their digital role models without giving it a second thought. But on the other hand, the growing influence of these role models can also provide valuable inspiration and motivation – if you follow people with a genuine message. Just like the fashion enthusiast Sinéad Burke, who is calling for fashion for marginalised minorities with a different physical aesthetic, or Lauren

Lanius

sents high-end green brands like Philomena Zanetti and ecoalf. A route that Belgian designer Bruno Pieters has already taken to its ultimate destination without having to resort to higher authorities. With his label honest by, he has been setting an exemplary standard since 2012 – ﬁrst online and meanwhile also in his bricks-and-mortar stores. And this means absolute transparency in all the steps it takes to produce an item of clothing – he even reveals the brand’s proﬁt margins to customers

“Designers shoulD always aspire to changing the worlD a little as it’s not going to change on its own: toDay’s challenge is to protect the planet anD overcome thoughtless consumption.”

in his online shop. Pieters was part of the conventional luxury industry himself for many years and sees the sluggishness of the bigger corporations as sheer idleness; a way of hiding behind the pursuit of absolute design sovereignty, which apparently knows no compromises with regard to the choice of materials, for example: “I want designers to talk about sustainability, transparency and what they do about it in reality. I want to know what they are doing to make the story behind their designs as beautiful as the designs themselves.” Grotesquely, the luxury industry sees itself as a sustainable alternative to mass production with an uncompromising commitment to quality, design and workmanship principles, which per se require a more measured pace and careful consideration. In fact, since the addition of the pre-seasons, the creative direc-

Singer, who is showing us how a zero-waste culture can be established in all areas of life with her blog ‘Trash is for Tossers’. Above all, the heterogeneity of the social scenario in its everchanging new dimensions is showing us one thing: that there is no panacea. A differentiated and individual approach, ongoing education, the introduction of a uniform independent sustainability standard and manufacturers and brand ambassadors who use their emancipatory influence responsibly are all essential solutions that will lead the way in the right direction. In Germany, the market share of sustainable fashion is currently estimated as still being under one percent. Reliable predictions based on specific figures or growth rates are not available. But the experts are unanimous that sustainable fashion is a growth market. Thimo Schwenzfeier confidently estimates that

MIkE MEyEr

Dieter Rams

Go aheaD Contributing to the green boom is a growing generation of designers and labels, for whom a careful, resource-eﬃcient and humane philosophy is a matter of course from the outset. Often these protagonists are part of Generation Y, the generation born between the late eighties and the early noughties. Regardless of established structures or traditions, they are going their own way and setting the benchmark for a new set of values that will hopefully be passed on by future generations: these days, younger people value experiences over owning things; the culture of the sharing economy and hand-me-downs has become a standard in our urban life. Clothing is increasingly being sold, swapped or even lent, while vintage and artisan production is experiencing a real renaissance. This is also being observed by the spokesperson for Cologne label Lanius, Katharina Ley: “Generation Y is learning a new awareness of reﬂected and sustainable consumption, while in the older generation a sense of values is still deep-seated.” And the omnipresent handmade and DIY hype is, above all, one thing: an anti-concept against digitalisation, which in its

Philomena Zanetti

sterility, speed and perfection is increasing our desire for haptic experiences and feelings. This becomes all the more evident when you think about the fact that people touch the surface of their smartphones an average of around 1,276 times a day. Feelgood, with the emphasis on feel, is achieving a new status. And that is inextricably linked to the origin and texture of the textiles we wear on our skin. Slowing down as both a creative claim and an incentive – just like Working title from Berlin who offer timeless, high-quality clothing for a life that is sophisticated and desirable. “Our mission is to design clothing that is comfortable, natural and protective and accompanies the wearer for a long time,” is how Antonia Goy and Björn Kubeja sum up the growing need of an affluent elite for ‘sustainable luxury’. Philomena Zanetti follows a similar credo: even during the design process, Julia P. Leifert, the brains behind the label, “aims to design unique items of clothing that are wearable over many seasons and for different occasions”. The sustainability claim is accompanying important aspects of creation and production, and discreetly taking its place behind the design. The label Zueanna is a beacon of minimalism and a slower pace, each season offering just one merino sweater model for men and one for ladies, which only varies in its silhouette and choice of colour. Designer Zsuzsanna Cséber is making a statement for an animal-friendly fashion industry. With ‘Slow Shearing’ she is setting a global benchmark. The production process of the sweater can be followed step by step on the website, going as far as a virtual date with the sheep. And brands with a significantly bigger reach like stella mccartney, edun, everlane, the reformation, armedangels, Lanius, Patagonia, Nudie Jeans and Veja have made the leap out of the eco niche with a confident, refreshingly new eco style statement, backed by a clear commitment to responsibility for our planet’s resources – and the willingness to venture down alternative paths. So the subject of sourcing, the procurement of sustainable materials that suit the design, is a challenge that should be seen as an opportunity to create something of real value: with Tyvek, fashion label Luuxa, for example, has developed a fibre similar to paper, which can be recycled up to five times. ecoalf from Spain is taking fashion made of recycled materials to a whole new level. To source the high-quality raw materials, the Spanish company works with an international network and is freeing our oceans from plastic waste. 250 boats bring a total of 1.3 tonnes of sea debris on shore for ecoalf every day. And the fishermen of Spain are also getting involved by bringing their old nets to the brand’s collection points instead of throwing them into the sea. The range of options these days includes sustainably produced silk, which is (for now) more expensive than conventional silk. And, as an alternative, Tencel is used in the commercial segment. Or Lenpur viscose, which is made from the cellulose that comes from tree trimmings. Another option is also Seacell, which comes from seaweed, and, when worn, has health-boosting and rejuvenating effects on the skin. And there are set to be even more alternatives added to the list of sustainable materials in the future.

your choice mat ters

the market share will increase annually in the mid to higher single-digit range: “I strongly believe that by focusing on sustainable fashion with a suitable story behind it, bricks-andmortar retailers will be in a position to face up to the competition from the big shopping and outlet centres, as well as from e-commerce. If a retailer knows their customers and advises them well, they will have the best chances of building up and expanding their business with sustainable fashion in the future.”

On a guided tour of his own ‘Inspirations’ retrospective at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris in 2014, when seeing a lavish sequin dress from one of his collections, designer Dries van Noten said: “How exactly do the people who buy a sequin dress from h&m for €19.90 think that the sequins got on the dress?” Exactly: they are sewn on by hand. An appreciation of textiles and all those who contribute to them being turned into garments needs to form the basis of a mentality of collective importance. Through their decisions it’s the consumer who has the biggest responsibility, After all, the basic rule of modern economy is simply ‘demand dictates supply’. The key approach to a rethink is best described by Bruno Pieters: “The person with the most power when it comes to changing the textile industry is the customer. The day we all start caring, as consumers, about sustainability, transparency and the continuation of the human race on this planet, everything will change.”

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DemaND Dictates suppLy

statements We want to take a closer look at the shift in values in the fashion business and asked decision-makers and key players what approach their company takes to meet the challenges of sustainability and fair trade.

teOmAn AdemOgullAri Ceo FASHion PoinT

THE MAN IN JEANS BUILT THE WORLD, THE MAN IN SUITS DESTROYED IT Unfortunately this is true. As long as the fashion brands are in the hand of financial companies, the product, the soul and character of ethic behaviour cannot take place because everything is aimed at profit and more growth, which kills the passion and soul of the product. Nevertheless we, as real denim people, show the upmost care about envoirement as well as product made with passion and love. Fashion Point is a company applying the sustainability in every stage and field. We have only one world and have to save it for next generations. Therefore, instead of aiming to produce more and more just for profit, instead we prefere to make less but beautiful products individually, piece by piece in a correct way with full social responsibities, fully sustainable clean and green products ….

August BArd Bringéus

Co-Founder ASKeT

Fashion’s devastating impact on the planet, environment and the humans exploited in its vast and uncontrolled value chain stems from one core problem: Novelty. Constant novelty and change in seasons and collections, to inject insecurity in the consumer if he or she does not bend to the latest style. This pace makes the industry compromise with the design, the materials, the craftsmanship, the wages and the working conditions to meet an unreasonable target: marketing and selling new garments every week, making a proﬁt. At Asket we have broken with this industry logic at its core and replaced the idea of ever changing collections with a single permanent collection. Every garment we make, is designed to stand the test of time and is resilient both to trend and wear and tear. And since every garment becomes part of a permanent collection, we can spend so much more time perfecting them, ﬁnding the right suppliers, the best materials, the greatest craftsmen and women and the best conditions. Since all ASKET garments are here to stay, we can virtually spend a lifetime perfecting them. We slow down, we invest in items and consider paying more for fewer, but better pieces.

mArcO lAnOwy Ceo AlberTo

Oliver Brüggen Pr direCTor CenTrAl euroPe WeST AdidAS

Since 2015, adidas and the ‘Parley for the Oceans’ initiative have been working together to raise awareness about the critical state of the world’s oceans. The collaboration has already resulted in several sustainable adidas products, such as the UltraBOOST Parley. For each pair of the limited edition, approximately eleven plastic bottles are used to make around 85% of the uppers, made of Parley Ocean Plastic™. Last year we exceeded our target of a million pairs of shoes made of Parley Ocean Plastic™ and we want to keep on going.

We don’t usually take an offensive approach when it comes to the topic of sustainability. Simply because it’s part of our mindset, something that accompanies us in our daily business. Quality and design are a matter of course for us, and we live and breathe them in every aspect of our work. By quality, we not only mean the use of high-quality materials, excellent workmanship and the perfect fit. For us, quality is also the fact that our trousers contain no harmful substances and our production processes and conditions are safe. And with an eye on raw material and energy consumption, we bring the end consumer on board by manufacturing easycare trousers that don’t need excessive washing and ironing, require only a small amount of detergent and can be washed at low temperatures. And finally, we make sure that only moderate quantities are on the shop floor, to avoid flooding the market with goods.

CP Fashion GmbH • Ruettehofstrasse 35 • D 79713 Bad Saeckingen • +49 7763 927706-0 info@cpfashion.de • www.cpfashion.de

Founder Fa i r - a - P o r t e r

INTERVIEWs by ThorsTen osTerberger cloaT gerold

interviews

alex bohn

What constitutes sustainable fashion for you exactly? sustainability is an added value. Fashion is all about looking good. you buy it because it’s aesthetically pleasing and of a high quality. It is an added bonus if it comes from an ecologically and socially sound production. The reverse isn’t true, though: you don’t buy an ugly piece of fashion just because it’s from an eco-friendly and socially responsible production.

how do you select the labels you feature? We have devised the Fair-a-porter standard based on four criteria of which at least one

must be met. Our focus is on longevity, sustainability – in the sense of an environmentally friendly production, in which the raw materials should be certiﬁed organic with a transparent production that relies on an ethical supply chain. Keyword: greenwashing. how do you check the information that you receive from brands and manufacturers? some of the brands I work with are quite transparent about their production. They will even invite me to their factories. With others I will have to trust the information they provide. To me building a personal relationship with the brands is key. because only then I learn about the people behind the products – their vision, ideals and their practices. I also believe that a healthy dose of skepticism is essential. The bigger a brand, the less ﬂexible it is and the harder it gets to bring about change and adopt an ethical production.

how can we motivate the public to change their buying behaviour and make the shift towards sustainable products? I think it is important to keep stressing that sustainable fashion is no less appealing than conventional fashion. stella McCartney is a good case in point as well as French designer Marine serre. both offer high fashion from ethically sound production. There is an even bigger challenge, though: breaking the spell of consumption as a promise of a happier, more fulﬁlled life. The allure of being a better version of oneself if you only own the latest fashion is still going strong. Which brands have the most credibility? I applaud French designer Marine serre: Her design is utterly modern and reﬂective of couture and streetstyle. At the core of it are sustainable practices: thirty percent of the fabrics used are upcycled, she pays fair wages and knows everyone in the supply chain.

ANNA ROsA KRAu

Alex bohn is the fashion director of the magazine Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung Quarterly and also the founder of the platform fairaporter.com

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interviews

cherie birKner

Founder s u s ta i n a b l e Fa s h i o n M at t e r Z

“My goal is for every person who buys clothing to know that sustainable fashion matters. I want people to feel good about their purchase, because it supports companies that also shine behind their curtain,” says Cherie birkner about the motivation to launch the platform sustainablefashionmatterz.com.

how do you select the labels you feature? The prerequisites for all brands to be listed in our brand Finder are ﬁrstly having a comprehensible and clearly worded statement about their sustainability standards and their philosophy on their website. secondly, the design and quality standards of their clothing, photography and websites should be comparable to that of mainstream brands and, last but not least, they should continue to strive towards raising the standard for sustainable fashion.

Which certiﬁcates or sustainably produced fashion do you trust? I don’t really fully trust any, simply because I’ve never seen the certiﬁcation procedure with my own eyes. but the GOTs (Global Organic Textile standard) is one that I respect because they not only check for hazardous substances, but also monitor

the environmental and social compatibility along the entire production chain. Getting a certiﬁcate costs time and money, meaning that not everyone who wants to set up a small fashion label can afford to get one. There are also bigger companies that prefer to invest the time and money in their own transparency. you can have a look behind the scenes on their social media channels and websites, which, in many cases, can even generate more trust and credibility than a certiﬁcate as far as fair fashion is concerned. how do you see the market for sustainable fashion developing in the coming years? I think that in ten years’ time there won’t be any trendy brands that aren’t making a serious long-term effort to become more sustainable and produce fairly. If you want to be taken seriously as a brand, you need

credibility and in the long run you won’t achieve that without taking action, especially not if you’re being asked on Instagram 300,000 times #whomademyclothes. The competition never sleeps, so if you start paying attention to ethical and ecological standards early on, you’ll have it easier in the future. Which brands have the most credibility? blue blen for example, their manufacturing of clothing only requires one tenth of the normal water consumption and they also donate 10% of the sales proceeds to development projects in bangladesh. Folkdays and Abury Collections are great because of their work with traditional artisan communities. Hessnatur has been producing with respect for people and the environment for over 40 years – the bigger companies could deﬁnitely take a leaf out of their book.

interviews

nicole schneider chrisTine KorTe Lessafair.com, which will be launched on August 1, offers a digital space for sustainable fashion, beauty and slow lifestyle. The founders believe in the rapidly increasing relevance of topics like sustainability and fair trade in the luxury segment of the fashion industry.

Founders l e s s a Fa i r

What exactly do you understand by the term “slow lifestyle”? nic ole s c h ne id e r A slow lifestyle is about being mindful and making sure that your body and mind are healthy. c hr is Tine Kor Te I see slow lifestyle as an alternative to our competitive growth-driven society that is neither healthy for the environment nor for its people.

how do you assess the market development of sustainable fashion in the coming years in general and in the high fashion segment in particular? c hr is Tine High street brands need to have a rethink; the slump in sales at H&M, for ex-ample, is proof of this. sustainable products should be the norm, especially for the chains that produce the most waste, rather than an exception that attracts attention because it is so unusual. nic ole In general, the luxury industry is growing, which is certainly also due to the fact that it already sees itself as a sustainable alternative to mass production. However, it has to ﬁnd additional ways to stand out for the design and quality of its products. These days, consumers who invest a lot of money in a product are also demanding transparency. Ecological and fair working conditions are important sales incentives that boost the luxury factor of a brand.

c hr is Tine It’s incredible how many great brands you come across. The minds behind them are very innovative and not only when it comes to the use of environmentally friendly materials. They are also ahead of

many other labels in terms of design. I believe that designers are becoming more creative because they are having to break away from established structures. how can you motivate spoiled consumers in the luxury segment to change their behaviour and opt for sustainable products? nic ole & ch r is Tine by offering cool and sustainable labels a platform on which to present themselves. With its modern aesthetic, LEssaFAIR takes them out of the eco-corner into high fashion. That’s how we inspire a

longing for traditional craftsmanship and collections made of ecological and recycled materials in our readers. Which brands do you think currently have the most credibility and are making the biggest impact as role models? nic ole & c hr is Tine stella McCartney – the symbiosis of sustainability and luxury is very authentic in her collections. The label Paloma Wool has become a real insider tip among fashion professionals, and we also love Honest by and Cienne.

LydIA GORGEs

are there already enough sustainable, fair trade brands in the high fashion segment to ﬁll your online magazine with variety? nic ole Absolutely. Almost every day we discover new exciting brands that act sustainably, adhere to fair trade guidelines and experiment and research with innovative fabrics and materials.

interviews 73

Founded in 2015, Green Window is on a mission to become the world's largest marketplace for green and equally chic lifestyle products and services. With the GreenTec Awards, Green Window honours the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most innovative projects once a year, making greener everyday life possible. The founders believe that mindfulness, lifestyle and aesthetics belong together, but since products with all of these virtues are still far too rare, they decided to take matters into their own hands ...

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interviews Founders Green wind ow

Which certificates do you trust? For example GOTs, Fair Trade, IVN best, Fair Wear Foundation and Made in Green. Other certificates like blauer Engel and Oeko-Tex also have good intentions but they leave too much scope for undesirable practices. Keyword: greenwashing. how do you check the information that you receive from brands and manufacturers? There is an unmanageable number of certificates. We can’t always be 100% sure whether cheating is going on. In case of doubt, we get partners like WWF or TüV Nord on board. In general, it can be said that it’s virtually impossible nowadays for consumers to see through this jungle. you have to be aware that even the stiftung Warentest (Editor’s note: German consumer organisation that tests goods and services) can only ever make random tests. There’s no ultimate guarantee. but one of the positives is that more and more companies are starting to look at the sustainability of their products. Even if the industry’s big players are bashed by the media (which is often justified), the leverage in terms of sustainability of even the smallest improvements is often greater than what can be achieved by many small companies.

What constitutes sustainable fashion for you exactly? is it enough to cover one aspect of the production/fair trade spectrum, or do all possible criteria have to be met? M a r c o VoigT That’s a very good question! The politically correct answer should be: Fair Trade, Cradle to Cradle and GOTs certification are the most important... but to be honest, I’m mainly thinking within other parameters. Although the topic of sustainability in fashion is more popular than ever before, the message often isn’t getting through to the consumers. Why? I think that first and foremost sustainable fashion has to be appealing. It needs to inspire and stand out positively from the rest of the fashion world. but it shouldn’t point the finger or appear to be taking the moral high ground. I mean, it’s logical that the basic principles of sustainability have to be fulfilled first. sometimes even just the use of organic cotton can be a step in the right direction.

What kind of product palette do you offer? We started by focusing on fashion, food, living and cosmetics. However, we are noticing that due to the many uncertain factors, we can no longer be held responsible for every product. The consequence is that we have begun to develop our own products in cooperation with brands. soon we want to start only offering items that we have been involved in creating. how do you see the market for sustainable fashion developing in the coming years? Without a shadow of a doubt, this will be the major issue of the next few years, or even decades. What we will start seeing is that no brand will be able to afford not to produce sustainably. We’re just at the beginning. how can brands motivate the public to change their buying behaviour and make the shift towards sustainable products? Through design, quality, style, role models. sustainability comes a long way after that.

All eco-warriors will hate me for saying that, but hey, the old-school eco-activists are digging their own grave. It pains me to see the pioneers of sustainable fashion unable to keep up and often preaching from on high, which then leads to frustration when the consumers don’t want what they are offering – consumerism with a guilty conscience and, in the worst case, former pioneers in sustainability become more of a hindrance to progress. In a nutshell, when it comes to sustainable fashion, you have to keep evolving and create inspiration. sustainability is a part of that – but it’s only a weak sales argument. Which brands do you think currently have the most credibility and are making the biggest impact as role models? KnowledgeCotton Apparel has been taking a very consistent path for years now. scandinavian design paired with materials that conserve resources. And Jeckybeng from bavaria, which has understood how to combine materials with functionality and style. That’s really cool! And of course Adidas, which in my eyes is doing a fantastic job. Even if it’s not happening fast enough for a lot of critics – but they should try turning an entire corporation green from one day to the next. It’s anything but easy. However, it’s being gratefully received by Generation y. Keep up the good work! do proactive brands, labels and manufacturers motivate you to make your own contribution to the topic of sustainability? definitely! unfortunately, we have discovered that collections by most small brands just aren’t marketable. And I don’t mean the closed cycle of green do-gooders either. I’m talking about the big retailers. They need unit sales and marketable fashion. It’s difficult for us to find any brands that have really mastered the art of sustainability as well as having a lifestyle appeal, so we approach brands to create products with us. It’s still early days, but with brands like Kunert, Eisbär and Trigema, we have created the first collections that are selling well. but here the sustainability aspect often comes close to last as a sales argument. Would you say that green Window is more of an agency than a marketplace? yes. We still follow the marketplace approach, but for that we need a sufficient number of suitable market participants. And they don’t yet exist in the dACH region. This is why we have put more of a focus on the magazine aspect and are helping selected brands with the development of sustainable collections. This includes concept development, distribution network, value creation and communications. Our platform is becoming a lab. It’s an exciting time.

how do you select the labels you feature? Of course we make sure we invest in labels that preserve resources, that they’re recyclable, have all the standard certiﬁcates and transparent supply chains. but the most important criteria are: design, intrinsic value, durability, price, brand, colours ... you need a good amount of experience to be able to decide which brand is taking care of the environment and which brand is simply using the environment as a marketing ploy.

interviews

anna schuncK & Marcus Werner

Viertel-vor.com is one of many online magazines that reﬂects the aspirations of the younger generation for a better, greener future and tirelessly questions the status quo.

What constitutes sustainable fashion for you exactly? To begin with, we differentiate between sustainable and fair fashion. The two terms are often mixed up, but in fair fashion the main focus is on the conditions of the workers in the production countries. This includes their wages, working hours, safety etc. And for us, sustainable fashion is fashion that has the lowest CO2 footprint possible and uses the fewest resources. The more use you get out of a garment, the more the footprint of the production process is reduced. That’s also why the concept of slow fashion has established itself in recent years.

how do you choose the labels you feature? One of the most important selection criteria is the transparency of the label. When the

consumers can see for themselves where the materials come from or what the working conditions are like, it builds trust and gives them a good conscience. We get to know the people behind the brands. What is their approach, what do they want to change or do better? If that convinces us, then we’re more than happy to promote the great work the brand is doing.

how do you see the market for sustainable fashion developing in the coming years? The fair fashion sector is currently experiencing a real boom and brands that want to succeed can’t afford not to get involved in it. However, we still see fair fashion as a niche sector, making up only a fraction of the entire market. There are lots of little labels that are trying to manufacture in a better way and presenting really cool styles. but fair production almost always means higher prices. Realistically, we don’t believe that the majority of consumers is prepared to pay these prices.

Keyword: greenwashing. how do you check the information that you receive from brands and manufacturers? It’s not always easy to recognise greenwashing. We always try to enter into a dialogue with the brands. And then it soon becomes clear who is really sincere and who is just trying to jump on the bandwagon. Greenwashing can also quickly lead to backlash.

Which brands do you think currently have the most credibility and are making the biggest impact as role models? There are lots of big brands who are doing really well and also playing a role on the conventional market. The list includes, for example, Veja, KnowledgeCotton Apparel, Armedangels, Hessnatur, Nudie, Ecoalf, Vaude etc.

CHERIE FOR susTAINAbLE FAsHION MATTERZ

Founders v i e r t e l\v o r

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interviews

Julia Zirpel, guya MerKle, JenniFer dixon Three professional women are making a stand for “Ethical Luxury”: The Wearness is an online marketplace for ethically produced fashion and sustainable luxury. The platform offers a curated range of luxury clothing by designer brands that run their business with respect for people and the planet. The product palette focusses exclusivly on products that are ecofriendly, fair trade, handcrafted, made in Europe, organic, recycled or vegan, with charity, female empowerment and zero waste as key aims.

What constitutes sustainable fashion for you exactly? We deﬁne sustainability for fashion and beauty products by the following guidelines: Fair working conditions: Respect for the production process and craftsmanship and there-fore also the people behind the product. Sustainable production: We support companies that work directly with ecological farmers or producers and manufacturers who produce in Europe in compliance with certiﬁed sustainability and labour standards. Design and quality: We have ten sustainability icons, that we use as a basis to examine labels and looks. Only when a brand meets several of our criteria do we offer their collections. The more icons they have, the more sustainable they are. Eco-friendly: Products that are manufactured using as few chemicals as possible, produce less CO2 and with minimum waste.

Recycled: Recycled or upcycled materials. Charitable: Part of the proceeds go to charitableenvironmental organisations. Handcrafted: Made completely by hand, often using old techniques that are typical of particular regions. Female empowerment: Women-friendly products made by fairly paid women. Organic: Made of raw materials sourced from ecological farming, free of chemicals, pesticides, herbicides and toxins. Fair: Fair wages, safe working conditions and development programmes. Made in Europe: A guarantee that local labour laws and environmental standards are upheld, transportation distances are short and CO2 emissions minimised. Vegan: No animal testing. Animals are neither part of the product, nor are they harmed during the production process. Zero waste: The concept of zero-waste fashion helps to protect our environment.

Which certiﬁcates or sustainably produced fashion do you trust? The more common, well-known standards are fantastic. but experience shows that smaller companies in particular can’t afford such certiﬁcates. That’s why we’ve developed an extensive list of questions: the producers really have to lay their cards on the table here. The Wearness wants to create transparency and communicate openly about the different options available with regard to sustainability. Keyword: greenwashing. how do you check the information that you receive from brands and manufacturers? It’s not always easy to recognise whether and why a product deserves the title sustainable. This is where our ten sustainability icons come in. Together with the manufacturer, we work through these criteria based on a list of questions. The companies

WOLFGANG MüLLER/OFFROAdsT

Founders t he we arne s s

interviews

What kind of product palette do you offer? Clothing, accessories, high fashion jewellery and beauty products for women and men. how do you see the market for sustainable fashion developing in the coming years? The market for luxurious fashion and beauty has changed a lot in recent years. This is due to two factors: vertical retail chains have stepped up the pace by giving customers a fast shopping experience with new products on a daily basis and making them more aware

of price. Plus, online shopping 24 hours a day, 7 days a week has taken over from the traditional stroll around the city and online platforms are replacing the classic department store. At the same time, consumers are also more aware of the poor conditions in the production of clothing and cosmetics: the clothing industry is the world’s largest polluter after the oil industry and although industry giant H&M, for example, has decided to up its game with the “H&M Conscious Collection”, there’s still a lack of attractive, fashionable alternatives and shopping opportunities in the luxury sector. In terms of e-commerce, the focus is still very much on the fast shopping experience and sale promotions. There’s a lack of ways for customers to ﬁnd out about designers and products that are both fashionably up to date and take a sustainable approach. This is where we see potential for The Wearness, a platform for premium-quality and sus-

tainable fashion and beauty, with a curated selection and journalistic content on the products and designers. With our curated content and choice of products we see an added value for customers who are often overwhelmed by the overabundance and speed on the internet, which leaves them feeling overwhelmed and not especially well informed. In the last few years the topic of sustainability, especially in the food sector, has gained in importance and become a lifestyle trend. And in the clothing and beauty sectors we also see an opportunity to meet interested clientele who want to buy without a guilty conscience and appreciate the quality and value of the products. Which brands do you think currently have the most credibility? We are fans of stella McCartney, Reformation, Maggie Marilyn and Philomena Zanetti.

are legally obliged by contract to inform us about any changes to their production processes. If this prevents them from meeting the standards, we have no choice but to part ways with products or companies. We’re all about transparency: there is no room in our portfolio for manufacturers who can’t or won’t fully communicate how they are producing and working.

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elcin aiser hair & Make up

nadja kaiser & daniel eisenmann

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Column

Carl Jakob Haupt is co-founder of the men’s fashion blog “Dandy Diary” and certainly not shy about voicing his opinions. In our column he’s letting off a bit of steam about greenwashing.

Column b y C a r l J a ko b H a u p t

Consumer decisions can change the world, or at least make a contribution to changing it for the better. This is something that well-informed consumers are more than aware of. The ones who are washing their designer T-shirts (that probably cost the equivalent of a month’s rent) with soap nuts instead of washing powder, rejecting the use of plastic straws and opting for environmentally friendly oat milk in their cappuccinos. But it’s also a fact that hasn’t escaped the sneaky fashion industry either. ——— Bigger, cheaper brands have recently started taking back used clothing for recycling when customers purchase their next fast-fashion trend piece, as well as forgoing the use of plastic bags for sale-driven binge shopping sprees, or even adding eco-conscious sublines to their offer. ——— That’s certainly a small step in the right direction. After all, most people have realised that if we keep on going the way we are, our planet will collapse – and sooner rather than later. But brands are often just exploiting the good consciences of their target groups with what is very clearly greenwashing. It’s not even necessary to cite one of those oh-so-catchy marketing terms like “conscious”, “sustainable” or “eco-friendly” anymore. It seems that subtle hints like a green-coloured label, a photo shoot of the new collection set against the backdrop of a wild landscape, or a store design with a lot of wood will sufﬁce to give their customers the warm and fuzzy feeling that they’re doing their bit for the environment. ——— As long as the fashion industry continues to be the dirtiest in an increasingly green world – second only to the oil industry – a bit of greenwashing is not going to save us from the imminent end. But at least when Judgment Day comes, we’ll be able to 73

choose between 50 pairs of shoes and 200 outﬁts. As well as one or two ecofriendly pieces, of course. Which, in the grand scheme of things, won’t have made an iota of difference. 58

4 JULY 2018 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; KRAFTWERK BERLIN WWW.FASHIONTECH.BERLIN

FASHION. TECH. DIGITALISATION. INNOVATION. BUSINESS.

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

FW18 Low Impact Denim Collection by Jack & Jones

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of SuStainability and fair faShion

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

A Brief AlphABet of sustaInabILIty anD FaIr FashIon

The who's who and the what's what of sustainability and greener living: With our brief alphabet of corresponding trade shows, organic fabrics, conscious modes of manufacture and fair trade, we offer a rough and ready overview of the currently most mentioned and signiﬁcant buzzwords, materials and certiﬁcates for you – without any claim to completeness.

TexT MirjaM SMend

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

A act

An initiative between international brands and retailers, manufacturers and trade unions to address the issue of living wages in the textile and garment supply chain. The primary scope of the initiative is identifying each stakeholder’s role and responsibility and how they can support living wages in a scaled up, sustainable, industry-wide approach. Members include retailers and brands like Asos, C&A, Superdry, H&M and Orsay. actonlivingwages.com

B bci

The Austrian weaving mill Vieböck uses only natural ﬁberes and has been awarded the GOTS and IVN BeST certiﬁcates

Better Cotton Initiative is a nonprofit organisation that aims to improve environmental and social conditions in the cultivation of cotton. Cotton producers need to fulfil precisely defined criteria before they can apply for the seal. Continual improvements and the fulfilment of further requirements must be ensured. The requirements vary depending on whether they are smallholders or owners of xL plantations. The seal does not appear on the finished products.

als in production, respectful handling of health and safety at work, durability of product and sustainable disposal. blauer-engel.de

blueSiGn

bluesign.com

bettercotton.org

blauer enGel

The oldest German certiﬁcation for products and services in the environmental sector was established in 1978 on the initiative of the Federal Ministry of the Interior. Since then, the Blue Angel has been voluntarily labelling products and services that are classiﬁed as particularly environmentally friendly. The following aspects play a role: the economical use of raw materi-

be certiﬁed to the exclusion of hazardous substances, which also somewhat limits their recyclability. There are also limits for the end product. With over 500 system partners, the textile seal has more than any other, including Vaude, Adidas, Puma and G-Star.

Bluesign is a certificate issued by the textile and chemical experts from Bluesign Technologies AG. It is therefore in an ideal position to examine chemical risks including all detox substances very comprehensively, over the entire value chain, starting with the chemical industry. In addition to a “negative list”, it also has an additional “positive list” for chemicals that can be viewed on the “Bluefinder” on their website. Despite their stringency, there are no limit values or wastewater tests for environmental pollution at Bluesign, which makes it inferior to certification such as the Blue Angel. All fibre types, as well as recycled materials, can

circular Flow economy

The aim of recycling management is to return the raw materials used to make a product back into the production process at the end of its life, therefore saving resources and avoiding waste. This is in contrast to the predominant linear economy (disposable economy), where a large proportion of products end up in landﬁll or are incinerated after use. cradle to cradle

For Cradle to Cradle, the concept of recycling is a particular focus – the aim is to make waste

a sustainable tights collection with Kunert Blue in 2017. econyl.com

ethical FaShion Show

The ethical Fashion Show Berlin represents urban zeitgeist, sustainable lifestyle and fashion. At the Kraftwerk Berlin venue, the tradeshow presents progressive streetwear and casualwear labels and brings together top players and newcomers from the sustainable fashion segment. After the upcoming edition of the Berlin Fashion Week in July, the Greenshowroom and the ethical Fashion Show will merge under the new name Neonyt (see under N).

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

superfluous in the long term. Five evaluation categories are used: material health, reusability, renewable energies, social fairness and maintenance of water quality, which is why Cradle to Cradle are considered to be particularly environmentally safe. The five certification levels Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold and Platinum provide a rough overview. Although the list of excluded chemicals is smaller than those provided by other seals, it assesses them according to 23 toxicological criteria, such as whether a product contains carcinogenic, hormone-affecting, persistent substances. First and foremost, the better biodegradable, cleaner and recyclable products are, the better their certification level. The label can be found in certain Trigema (Silver level) or C&A (Gold level) T-shirts, but not in their complete product range.

ethicalfashionshowberlin.com

eu-ecolabel

c2ccertified.org

dye

With its "Low Impact Denim Collection", Jack & Jones presents the most sustainable jeans yet

Dyes can be harmful to the environment and those working with them. To avoid this, the use of low-impact dyes is highly recommended. Low-impact dyes have been classiﬁed as eco-friendly, which means they contain no harmful toxins, require less rinsing and have a high absorption rate, which reduces the amount of water waste.

econyl®

econyl® is a 100% regenerated and regenerative fibre made from nylon waste, such as torn fishing nets, fabrics, old carpets and other recyclables. With the help of innovative technologies, it is now possible to produce a premium yarn, so-called econyl® yarn, from which the finest materials can be woven. Italianbased company Aquafil, one of the world’s leading companies in the synthetic fibre industry, has succeeded in closing the loop. The revolutionary material is used, for example, by German company Kunert which launched

The internationally recognised quality label makes environmentally friendly products more easily identifiable for consumers. When evaluating a product, the entire life cycle, including environmentally compatible production and disposal, is examined. It applies to both natural and synthetic fibres. The european Union ecolabelling Board (eUeB) is responsible for the seal and the owner is the european Commission. This seal of approval is recognised in all eU member states, including Norway, Liechtenstein and Iceland. In Germany, the German Institute for Product Safety and Certification (RAL) and the Federal environment Agency are responsible for testing and awarding the seal (for three years each). eu-ecolabel.com

Fair wear Foundation

The non-proﬁt Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) has set itself the goal of improving working

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet The Greenshowroom has established itself as one of the hotspots for international buyers, media and inﬂuencers

conditions in the textile industry. The FWF concentrates on the processing phase of fabrics into textile products (ready-towear). The member companies are regularly checked and evaluated for the implementation of the catalogue of requirements of the FWF. These checks also take place in the production facilities. In addition, the Fair Wear Foundation is developing approaches with the help of which human rights can be better enforced in the supply process.

will merge under the new name Neonyt (see under N). greenshowroom.com

GreenStyle i muc

The upcoming slow fashion and organic beauty festival & fair at Haus der Kunst in Munich. Launching on October 19 it will be a weekend full of slow fashion designers, fashionshows, installations, panels, an award and the ofﬁcial kick-off for Green Fashion Tours Munich. greenstyle-muc.com

fairwear.org

GotS

GreenShowroom

A hotspot for sustainability and innovation in fashion: the Greenshowroom trade fair is part of Berlin Fashion Week and showcases elegant design and high-quality apparel with sustainability as its focus. Please note: After the upcoming edition of the Berlin Fashion Week in July, the Greenshowroom and the ethical Fashion Show

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is one of the strictest and best-known quality seals for ecological clothing. Since 2008, it has labelled products whose entire production meets certain ecological and social standards. 90% of GOTS-certiﬁed clothing must consist of natural ﬁbres, at least 70% of which must be

hiGG index More than 200 global members from across multiple sectors such as Puma, ecco and Levi's belong to the SAC (Sustainable Apparel Coalition)

Greenpeace detox campaiGn

In conjunction with the Greenpeace Detox Campaign, around 80 brands have committed themselves to produce toxin-free by 2020. Among them are fast fashion chains like H&M, sporting goods manufacturers like Adidas, luxury brands like Valentino, lowcost chains like Aldi and, with the Italian Prato, even a whole textile region. These companies are already doing away with toxic chemicals and publish wastewater data – around 15% of the textile industry worldwide. greenpeace.com

KpiS

KPIS – Key Performance Indicators are a set of quantiﬁable measures that a company or brand uses to assess or compare its performance in terms of meeting their strategic and operational goals. An example of a KPI could be the amount of water saved during the production process or the percentage of sustainable ﬁbres used in a brand’s collection.

linear economy

In the linear economy, large parts of production end up in landﬁll or are incinerated after use. The raw materials used are not returned to the production process at the end of their life. A linear economy is the opposite of the circular ﬂow economy.

hiGG index

made in Green by oeKo-tex®

The self-assessment tool developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition empowers brands and retailers to measure their environmental, social and labour impact and identify areas for improvement. Higg delivers a comprehensive overview of the sustainability performance of a product or company. apparelcoalition.org

An independent textile label that certiﬁes products that have been manufactured using environmentally friendly processes and under safe and socially responsible working conditions. oeko-tex.com

naturtextil certiFied beSt

iVn

Companies that attach great importance to environment, social responsibility, product quality and consumer protection have been joining the International Association of Natural Textiles e.V. since 1989. The IVN awards two quality certiﬁcates: IVN-Naturtextil Best and IVN-Naturleder, whose guidelines document the highest realisable ecological and social standard. naturtextil.de

The International Association of the Natural Textile Industry e.V. (IVN) is a professional association that companies from the natural textile production sector (textiles and leather) have been joining since 1989 – companies such as Hessnatur and Alnatura that have the highest standards in environmental protection, social responsibility, product quality and consumer protection. The IVN awards the two

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

global-standard.org

quality labels “Naturtextil zertifiziert best” (Naturtextil certified best) and “Naturleder zertifiziert” (certified natural leather), the guidelines demanding the highest possible ecological and social standards. As part of this IVN certification, all companies involved in the production chain are tested by independent institutes. naturtextil.de

neonyt

Right after the upcoming edition of the Berlin Fashion Week in July, the Greenshowroom and the ethical Fashion Show will merge under the new name Neonyt (composed of the ancient Greek, neo and the Swedish word, nytt for, new) into an international hub for progress. The new trade fair continues to regard sustainability as a step forward, as well as technological innovations designed to bring the fashion industry into the future. Together with

The FW18 collection "Leaves" with super soft eco-ﬂeece feels cozy when worn. The styles are 100% organic and produced fairly

organically grown. In addition, social and labour law standards must be complied with. These include no child and forced labour, compliance with local minimum wages, compatible working conditions and occupational safety measures.

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

the FashionSustain conference, #Fashiontech by the Premium Group and other events, this will create a brand new global hub for future topics. neonyt.com

oeKo-tex® Standard 100

When consumer interest in safe textiles began to grow in the early 1990s, the Austrian Textile Research Institute (ÖTI) and the German Hohenstein Institute developed the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 – a uniform guideline for consumers and manufacturers. The certiﬁcate is only awarded when all elements of an item fulﬁl the test criteria. As well as the non-hazardous qualities of fabrics that come into contact with the skin, this also applies to sewing yarns, buttons, zippers etc. oeko-tex.com

orGanic cotton

Approximately 25% of the insecticides and 11% of the pesticides used in the world are attributable to cotton production. And with one cubic metre of water per kilogram of cotton fibres, the water consumption is extremely high. Organic cotton makes up 1 to 2% of global cotton production and is generally grown in subtropical countries – ideally from non-genetically modified plants, and without the use of any synthetic chemicals. Numerous seals of approval and certificates haven’t necessarily made the production of organic cotton more transparent. But producers are currently ensuring that there is no child labour, no pesticides are being used and that the farmers are getting fair prices. organicexchange.org

peta-approVed VeGan

All products that carry the PeTA-Approved Vegan logo are 100 percent vegan.

Leather, wool, silk and of course fur are just as taboo in their production as small parts that contain animal ingredients. Shoes that have been stuck with bone glue and mother-ofpearl buttons are therefore also forbidden. Unlike many other seals, this one is free of charge, allowing small, new labels who meet the requirements to also use it.

VeGan leather Current vegan styles: sneakers made by Veja, backpack from the latest BMW i-collection, platform shoes by Vagabond and backpack by Ju-Ju-Be

peta.de

piÑatex

Shoes, bags, belts, car seats: if you want to avoid animal leather, pineapple leather is offering a new vegan alternative. With her start-up Ananas Anam, Spanish designer Carmen Hijosa has developed a procedure that turns pineapple leaves – which are otherwise discarded as waste during the harvest – into a nonwoven mesh, which has a similar appearance to animal leather and is just as sturdy. Smaller designers like Maravilla Bags (Mallorca) are already offering pineapple leather bags and Puma and Camper are experimenting with prototypes. ananas-anam.com

pure conSciouS The Mud Jeans' appeal: "Be kind to the world – recycle your jeans"

Hosted bi-annually, the trade fair Pure London covers all categories – from premium womenswear to accessories and footwear and now also newly introduced Pure Conscious, a sector dedicated to ethical and sustainable fashion. purelondon.com

At least 50% of the textiles we throw away are recyclable. Recycling is the process of reusing waste products or taking the original raw materials to create secondary materials. Secondary materials are raw materials obtained by recycling waste material. Resourceful green fashion labels have discovered the beneﬁts of recycling worn, used products and are creating fantastic new fashions with recycled ﬁbres (e.g. Mud Jeans). As a result, the resource-intensive cultivation of cotton, among other things, can be reduced, as well as the extraction of polyester from crude oil.

SIGRID ReINICHS

recyclinG

SuStainabilit y / Fair FaShion alphabet

Salmon leather

Salmon leather (tanned salmon skin) is a by-product of ﬁshing, which green fashion labels can use for their production (of accessories like bags, shoes and belts, for example), without the need to breed, catch or kill salmon. Nanai leather comes from the world’s only company that can demonstrate that its salmon leather is tanned and dyed in a way that is 100% chrome-free. Nanai leather is thinner than calfskin, very ﬂexible, durable and splash-resistant. Perfect for gorgeous shoes and bags by labels such as Alina Schürfeld and Nine To Five. Selected sustainable labels show their collections at the new xOOM space (Panorama Berlin ) on more than 2,000 square meters

CHeRIe BIRKNeR @SUSTAINABLeFASHIONMATTeRZ

tencel / lyocel

VeGan FaShion

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Tencel/Lyocel is an industrially produced cellulose fibre made from natural raw materials. Cellulose is obtained from wood – in this case from Asian or South American eucalyptus wood sourced from sustainable forestry. The fibres are manufactured in a closed cycle and have been presented with the “european Award for the environment” by the european Union. As well as being very comfortable to wear and versatile, it is the sustainable aspects that make Tencel a real fibre of the future: almost 100 percent of the solvents required for the manufacturing process are reused, only a fraction of the amount of water is required for production compared to man-made fibres and neither artificial irrigation nor pesticides are required for the cultivation of eucalyptus. Tencel is biodegradable and is supplied by the Austrian company Lenzing AG.

Garments and accessories that have been made without the use of animal products. Many brands produce 100% vegan collections, while others, like Dr. Martens, Stella McCartney and Patagonia, offer selected vegan fashion items.

The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Roadmap to Zero Programme takes a holistic approach to tackling the issue of hazardous chemicals in the global textile, leather and footwear value chain. The goal is to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals by focusing on the following areas: Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) & Conformity Guidance, Wastewater Quality, Audit Protocol, Research, Data and Disclosure and Training. The members of the organisation include top brands like Adidas, Benneton, Hugo Boss, esprit, G-Star Raw and Levi’s.

lenzing.com

upcyclinG

Upcycled products and fabrics are repurposed. Parts or the entirety of the old product is used again for another purpose, reducing the need to produce new fabrics or goods.

water-baSed inKS

Water-based inks are used for screen-printing on fabrics. They do not contain compounds that can be harmful to the environment and those working with them like PVC and phthalates. Furthermore, water-based inks do not require solvents to clean printing screens as their residues can be removed with water.

roadmaptozero.com

X xoom

The tradeshow debuted in January 2018 as part of Panorama Berlin. With the new xOOM space the organiser of Innatex provides buyers with the opportunity to discover a selected portfolio of green fashion brands.

Mirjam Smend Journalist Less is the new more, slow the new fast and eco the new cool. And that's the reason why Mirjam Smend quit her job at Elle magazine and started her blogzine my-greenstyle.com where she publishes sustainable topics from fair fashion to eco travel. With her articles for magazines like vogue.de and Vue berlin she shares her passion for fair fashion with conventional fashion fans. Her upcoming projects? The Green Fashion Tours Munich and the slow fashion festival & fair GReeNSTYLe | MUC.

salmo-leather.de

my-greenstyle.com

innatex.muveo.de/berlin

alberto candiani FounDer CanDiani DeniM

green revolution starts with a better product that is obtained through innovative processes & technologies In terms of sustainability our company combines technological and holistic approaches in order to make visionary innovation a tangible result. The main focus of Candiani's R&D is geared towards improving the process and product in order to minimise water, chemical and energy consumptions without compromising the aesthetics and performance of our denim. Fair trade is a given factor at Candiani thanks in large part to our geo-location. We are based in the EU, in Italy, in a nature reserve called Parco Del Ticino and regulations in this area require fair trade. The green revolution starts with a better product that is obtained through innovative processes and technologies. We now engineer our denim fabrics according to the treatment they will receive once transformed into a pair of Jeans.

Sanne SeheSted Creative DireCtor & FounDer GeStuZ

MoStafiZ Uddin

ManaGinG DireCtor DeniM eXPert LiMiteD

My Factory Denim Expert Limited follows some of the best denim production conditions, such as recycling and reusing waste water through ETP, harvesting rainwater, using laser wash, ozone machine, non-hazardous chemicals etc., which promote sustainability. We believe that proﬁtability and growth is dependent upon our workforce, and this belief guides and motivates all the initiatives that we take at Denim Expert Limited.

At Gestuz we work hard to ensure that the way we do business does not in any way harm the people or the environment that surrounds us. We work through a material strategy which makes it possible to achieve a goal for 2020, that 20% of our ﬁbres should be sustainable and have positive impact on the environment. Furthermore we are part of the BSCI code of conduct, and also train our supplier in chemical restrictions. We have implemented recycled polyester made of plastic bottles to reduce trash and less water, energy and CO2 emissions and we use organic cotton with no pesticides and no harm for the environment and people. We are focusing on animal welfare and traceability for our leather products. We are on a quest for new sustainable fabrics every day and have close dialogues with suppliers about new and innovative ways.

angele Zettner HeaD oF Creative PurCHaSinG, ManuFaCtuM

For Manufactum, responsible consumption and sustainability aren’t mere trends. They reflect the company attitude that unites us and our customers. In the range on offer at our department stores and in the Manufactum online shop, we only sell products that are durable, have a long life and are produced responsibly and manufactured in a resource-efficient way.

BRAVE NEW WORLD

I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R

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Stéphane Mounet

production & styling

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Production & Styling: sabine berlipp @ Blossommanagement.de Hair & Make uP: Walter DenĂŠchĂ¨re using davines and mac cosmetics ModelS: alina @ zuccampdels.co.Jp, alexis renarD and Janusz Kuhlmann @Bananamodels.com; special thanks to DachshoWroom paris

Denim rounD table amsterDam

in t erview

Key Challenges of the future

The denim industry has understood that sustainability has to be the new industry standard. But it still faces the major challenge of developing a common evaluation system that, for the end consumer in particular, brings the desired transparency: lucidly in a fast and easily comprehensible way. In collaboration with YBone’s consulting owner Banu Yenici, J’N’C brought together the most important Turkish denim manufacturers and key players in the industry in Amsterdam to discuss a future of sustainability and transparency.

INTervIew Pierre D’AvetA

TexT Cheryll Mühlen & renée Diehl

phoTogrAphY bernD wiChMAnn

As a manufacturer, you always have to stay one step ahead of the consumer. in your opinion, what are the future trends that will affect the denim world? S e D e f UnC U A ki At orta we feel very responsible for sustainable denim and production. we

have started very early. After using raw materials and different application schemes in the 2000s, and aiming to be a leading denim brand pursuing sustainable lifestyles and production, orta founded its sustainability division orta Blu in 2010. Together with our stakeholders we are creating a future where denim is designed, produced, consumed and disposed of in radically different ways. At orta we believe, while our footprint is what we take from the planet when we consume, our handprint is what we give the planet back when we create change for the better. But the industry has only just started talking seriously about it, mainly because it is feeling the pressure. what pressure? S e D ef UnC U A ki That everybody is talking about sustainability. Kings of Indigo and Nudie were among a few selected brands that were sustainable from the outset. But the rest of the world was basically not at that level yet. Today they are. And even if

ne day before the Kingpins Show in April, some of the most important decision-makers of the denim industry arrive at the A’Dam Toren hotel in Amsterdam to meet with J’N’C editor-in-chief Thorsten osterberger and advertising director pierre D'Aveta to do some plain talking. There were enough topics and questions to discuss and plenty of common solutions to be found. After all, in matters of sustainability and transparency the denim industry is facing severe challenges that need to be overcome quickly. In our round table discussion, we found out how the most important manufacturers in Turkey as well as international brands are tackling these problems head on.

Denim rounD table amsterDam

the J’n’C Denim rounD table Associate publisher pierre DÁveta launched the series of an annual JŃ’C Denim round Table in 2016. For the first event he brought together the leading Turkish denim producers in Istanbul to discuss their vision of the global denim market. In 2018 Amsterdam was chosen as the approriate location, as all participants were in town for the Kingpins Show.

Denim rounD table amsterDam

consumer has to catch on to the reason for sustainability. If they understand that paying a couple of euros more will get them a more honest product, we would be able to move much further along. Also media needs to focus more on the fact that a sustainable jeans can’t be 19.95 euros Keyword: transparency.

the word “sustainability” may seem a bit overused, we don’t see it as a trend but as the future. we are expecting new ways of processing new kinds of materials and resources. The way I see it, we need to go for new technologies so that sustainability can move forward through technology. That’s

many changes in the near future, I’m more concerned about the distant future. As the world’s population is continuously growing, I believe that one day there will no longer be enough cotton for all of us and one of the reasons is because we will need our land mainly to grow food. So maybe we have to

“There will no longer be enough coTTon for all of us and one of The reasons is ThaT we will need our land mainly To grow food.”

why we’ve adopted the “art, sustainability and technology” formula for inﬁnite possibilities of denim for tomorrow. tony, Sedef just mentioned k.O.i as one of the few brands that was committed to sustainability right from the start. how did you see the developments? t O n y t OnnA e r when I started with Kuyichi in 2002, nobody was interested in sustainability – including the manufacturers. So we had to buy our own organic cotton and spin it in one place, weave it in another, and stitch it together somewhere else. It was basically unaffordable and not viable from a commercial point of view. Today we’re certainly no longer the only ones, which is a great development. It gives us more opportunities because the more volume we have, the cleaner the industry can become. More suppliers are on board now, which gives other companies the opportunity to become more sustainable as well. If nothing else, the consumers are demanding it anyway. To me, some of the retailers are the biggest issue here as they’re the ones who aren’t buying the sustainable products, as they haven’t deﬁned it as one of the elements in buying decisions yet. will the retailers change any time soon? h A Mit y e niC i I don’t believe that there will be

invent new kinds of fibres that we can dye or that require less real fibres. or we will have to find a way to close the cycle to keep this loop of products. But it’s a fact that we need to keep our eyes on the future. Closing the cycle can also be achieved by recycling. is this another option for a better future? M A r tin GUS tA fS S On post-consumer garment recycling is definitely a logistical challenge. Nudie for example offers a recycled denim range and I think they’re doing a fantastic job, but they are a small brand and therefore quite flexible. If you’re talking about a company like us with 220 stores, however, it becomes much more of a logistical problem. It can be very challenging because you not only need to have the resources but also have to deal with hygiene issues. So where is sustainability headed? M A r tin GUS tA fS S On Sustainability has become more transparent and more commercially viable – a couple of years ago when we were talking about organic garments, it was not as commercially viable as traditionally manufactured garments. They did not look as nice and weren’t as elastic. Now they look the same and are sometimes even more innovative and of a better quality. But the end

So transparency is key? M A r tin GUS tA fS S On These days you need proper numbers, not just stories. Five years ago, you could tell me that you’re saving water but today the question that follows is: how much water are you actually saving? Nowadays people want all the facts about the product. So if I don’t communicate this to the end consumers, I need numbers. I want to have all the data, so I can discuss it with Candiani, Calik or Baykanlar and ask them where the fabric is from, what kind of chemicals were used and so on. If you don’t have that full story for me, I won’t be able to give it to the end consumer either. And if I’m wrong, I will be the one who is responsible, standing there and having to provide an explanation. That’s why it’s so crucial. There’s also the trends to take into consideration. You can still do good business with basics but everything moves so much faster and its harder to get the “loyal” customer in the longer perspective. The new generation is anarchistic in their way of mixing their wardrobe and wants more limited and customised items. Jonas, are you facing the same issues with Cubus? JOn AS A r r e lO v Deﬁnitely, I work for a brand where selling price is slightly lower than the brands of the others around the table. But disregarding selling price transparency is an important topic. Many consumers have a feeling that our industry in general is “dirty” and it will be this industry’s big challenge to change the mindset of the end consumer. It is our job to make sure that we work on transparency and show everything we do and that we not only try but actually take action to change. From our perspective, when it comes to buying materials, making garments, it is us that can make the change. I can decide to run to a mindless lower-end factory to save a few extra cents or I can decide to

Denim rounD table amsterDam

Many companies use certiﬁcates as a deliberate marketing ploy and place them prominently in their clothes. Or hA n b Ay k A n There are so many different types of certiﬁcation out there: Brands, retailers and consumers want to know what is in their products and the conditions in “consumers which they are made. we are strongly committed to developing policies and strategies say ThaT that will result in more transparent supply our indusTry is chains. It simply makes good business sense. we work with our partners (brands) on it. dirTy and iT’s Now it’s time to put our heads together with brands and suppliers. exchanging informagoing To be tion and knowledge to produce the best a big challenge products we can. And then supporting products with the true stories behind them.

for us To change This mindseT.”

Pinar, as a product textile export organisation Utib are running a campaign to discover the potential in turkey and therefore supporting denim manufacturers in conveying the message that there are indeed a lot of sustainable projects in the country. PinA r tAS D e le n Yes, as the Uludag Textile exporters’ Association (UTIB), we try to promote Turkish textiles in different sectors, like the home textiles industry, as well as Turkish fashion fabrics and denim. Together with the government, we want to promote this undiscovered potential. Turkish denim has a strong tradition because of its cotton weaving history and if you take a look at the last 10 to 15 years, you can see that the

c o n v e r sat i o n pa r t i c i pa n t s

pay more and to work with a really good manufacturer on both fabrics and garments who shares our mindset on sustainability.

tOny tOnnAer King Of inspiratiOn K.O.i. Kings Of indigO

MeSerret Ok MarKeting & sales Manager BayKanlar

JOnAS ArrelOv prOduct & Buying Manager cuBus carlings grOup

figures for the export of Turkish denim are constantly rising. But export clothing is selling at the average price, as well as the denim fabrics. This shows us that Turkish denim producers are exporting qualities destined for medium and higher end products. This should be one of our aims: to export finished products, since some companies prefer to buy the finished product from our country. This should be one of our aims internationally – which I think is a very good sign for Turkish denim fabric producers.

Dr SeDef UnCU Aki directOr Orta anadOlu

Do you have any ﬁgures? PinA r tAS De le n Sure, when we talk about our denim exports, we’re talking in kilos not metres. In 2017 we exported 38 million kilos of denim. The main export countries were Tunisia, egypt, Italy and Morocco. As for the garments, it was around 67 million kilos. The main markets were Spain, germany, the UK and holland. So, as I said, the average price increased quite a bit for denim fabrics. The same goes for clothing, which also increased, but the export

OrhAn bAykAn

Are you also promoting sustainable and organic concepts? PinA r tAS De le n of course! everybody should pay special attention to sustainability. As you all know, in Turkey genetically modiﬁed cotton is forbidden. Natural cotton is a matter of course for us.

ceO BayKanlar

Denim rounD table amsterDam

ﬁgures are going up. It's a good thing for the country. It shows that Turkish denim producers are exporting fabrics that are not destined for the mass market but for medium and higher end products.

PinAr tAŞDelen Vice chairMan Of the BOard uludag textile expOrters assOciatiOn

hAMit yeniCi ceO caliK deniM

c o n v e r sat i o n pa r t i c i pa n t s

So the general situation isn’t actually too bad… PinA r tA S De le n No, not at all. when it comes to the numbers and the types of fabrics, Turkey is shifting up to a higher market. what do you think is most important for bossa in terms of transparency and trends, besim? b eS iM Oze k As Bossa we always want to be transparent and sustainable for our customers, which is why we established an accessible lifecycle programme, where we get more transparent ﬁgures for

“They say we’re fashion forward buT To be honesT, The cloThing indusTry is lagging way behind.”

the entire ecological footprint. Strong fabric, garment and washing collection combinations are driving the world denim trends today. when we start every Bossa denim collection we think about cultural trends and influences. we want to fit our denims to consumers movements and directions. So we create frameworks covering the different aspects of the denim/jeans trends. we fill these frameworks with our ideas, our innovations. t On y t Onn A er I think that looser fits are coming back. For women, stretch is still the biggest trend, but I already see a big development in no stretch, comfort stretch and functional fabrics. They

bAnU yeniCi Owner yBOne textile cOnsultancy

beSiM Ozek

strategy and Business deVelOpMents directOr BOssa

MArtin GUStAfSSOn head Of Menʼs design KarVe carlings grOup

are already open to buying loose fits and cropped fits. whereas men are always a bit slower than women, so we’ll see how that develops. But comfort will always be important. even the richest fabrics like 14 oz. will have a softer touch for the main market. on top of it all, I would like to add that soft denims will certainly be trending in the future. Today we are talking about cotton but in the near future, recycled cotton, refibra, linen, hemp and tencelblends are going to be more important because they will become more fashionable also great as stretch options. let’s talk about another challenge. what other competitive industries are you facing and how do you deal with them? S e De f UnC U A ki I think most of us would say the same thing because we all have parts of our collections that are very much alike, for example sportswear and athleisure including all the innovations, the fabrics, the functions; we are all doing a good job in these sectors. And we have to, because the consumer really demands performance, but still needs their fits to look good, be comfort-

The effect of sneakers or loafers, like the ones from gucci, becoming so popular, is that we are producing more cropped jeans than ever. Simply because people want to show off their shoes. MeS e r r e t Ok

So in the end it’s all about technologies? S e De f UnC U A ki Since we are talking about future trends, we need to find different ways of doing it. b A nU y e niC i Technology is more important than ever. There’s no alternative but to track and synchronise your business with it. From my point of view it’s also very important to recognise the customer profile of the future because generations Y-Z are the ones who are buying at the moment. what denim means for them? They all favour athleisure and sportswear, so they are buying lots of sneakers. And if you want to profit from their purchasing power you should offer them pieces to suit their style. If you don’t compete in the same style category or tune into the same frequency, you will have a hard time. Meaning if we want to keep denim popular we have to transform it now into a more sustainable product for the new generation. t On y t OnnA e r I think there’s big competition from other lifestyle segments like technology, smartphones and social media. people will spend less money on clothing and become more critical, especially the younger generation. So the way of consuming for young people is really changing and I think the clothing industry will still be under pressure. people will buy less, or at least I hope they will, since that would be great for the environment. But it’s really about buying the right products for the right reason. I think that when talking about transparency, the internet helps a lot. After all, consumers are getting very critical about what they buy, who they buy from, where it’s made and how it’s made. They say we’re fashion forward but to be honest, the clothing industry is lagging way behind. we are late to the party, as other industries are way ahead.

h A Mit y e niC i I don’t think that we should convince the end consumer to buy sustainable products by giving them more information. Nowadays they don’t have any time; they’re always in a rush. So we have to be very clear. If we keep things how they are, with different ﬁgures and grades of social transparency and sustainability, all the different kinds of associations that use different methods of grading, consumers will lose track. we have to work together to ﬁnd a solution, a system. There needs to be some kind of

“our job is sTaying one sTep ahead of The consumers when iT comes To knowing whaT The nexT big Thing in fabrics will be.”

are used to operating in a black box. Now this black box has to become a glass box. everybody should be able see what you’re doing in-house. Transparency, commitment and trustworthiness have always been the key elements of orta’s philosophy. For this purpose, we’ve recently adopted Life Cycle Assesment, a tool used to quantify the environmental performance of a product taking the complete life cycle into account (from raw material production to ﬁnal disposal)

higher authority for this particular issue, which can designate a kind of grading. It needs to be really basic, so that all consumers can be familiar with it and understand it quickly. That’s the only way it could work. otherwise, we would all just use it as a marketing tool. And if the consumers feel that it’s just a marketing tool, they won’t care. But if they have a number or a value, that would really make a difference. Like the movie rating website IMDb.

able and ensure full mobility. So those high standards and important topics are always on our radar. our job is to ﬁnd the right solutions and always staying one step ahead of the consumers when it comes to knowing what the next big thing in fabrics will be.

let’s take a peek into the crystal ball then. if the shoe market can inﬂuence the denim industry, will denim inﬂuence sustainability? S e D e f UnC U A ki There will be radical transparency, that’s for sure. As an industry, we

deﬁned by ISo 14040/44 standards. with our Aw19/20 collection, we have started sharing the data of our products which calculates water, energy and carbon footprint. we are determined to achieve a brighter, more sustainable and stimulating future. orta has always been on the forefront of sustainable change and once again we are aiming to lead the industry by disrupting it. And I am pretty sure all the Turkish manufacturers are really open to it because we are already operating in a very transparent way in our manufacturing.

Denim rounD table amsterDam

M A r tin GUS tA ffS On I think consumers nowadays are spending more money than we have seen in a while. They may not buy as many clothes, but they want the limited stuff. They spend like 200-300 euros on a pair of sneakers, keep them for a couple of weeks and then sell them for a proﬁt. Today it’s really about limited sneakers, limited jackets, limited collections. Five years ago, it was much easier for us to sell a pair of jeans for 160 – 180euros but now this money goes to other products and at the same time we haven’t seen any really strong premium denim brands for some time.

Denim rounD table amsterDam t O n y t OnnA e r But our products are way more complicated than rating movies. It’s harder to categorise.

chemicals, recycled materials.etc. Let’s turn these aims into reality and work on concrete changes to save resources.

M A r tin GUS tA fS S On There are no ratings because we are not working together, we are not cooperating. we are not communicating the data amongst ourselves. Maybe it will take a lot of work, I don’t know, but I agree that we need some kind of grading system.

what is the turkish industry’s greatest strength? Pin A r tA SD e le n right now, Turkey is the seventh largest producer of textiles in the world and I think the biggest in europe as far as the denim industry is concerned. And since the Turkish industry is supporting all up-to-date technologies, we might evolve into a higher market. I also do believe that the clothing

we should all come together on this. It’s certainly something we could do! S e D e f UnC U A ki

is cotton. our cotton production has been increasing day by day for the last ﬁve years and the ﬁgures show that it’s going to stay at these levels. That’s why it’s so important for the industry that Turkish companies use some of the best cotton to ensure that denim is durable compared to other cottons. And everything from the feel to the hightech aspect is our strength. b A nU y e niC i Simply being here and coming together to make a change, that’s what it’s all about and that can be our strength.

“coming TogeTher To make a change can be our sTrengTh.”

if we had new standards, would anything disappear? Or hA n b Ay k A n As Baykanlar we see apparel design and manufacturing are changing at a fast pace. And we have embraced sustainability as a platform for innovation. with experience in denim manufacturing, we have grown to become one of the world’s most sustainable denim factories. Since we are trying to integrate sustainability into our product design, zero waste in production is an important criterion for a garment maker. Additionally we’ll be using more laser technologies, less water, smart

industry’s message to generations Y and Z has to be much clearer and simpler. Since they tend to resell and trade their clothes a lot, the garments have to be functional and durable and therefore have a greater worth. Summed up: denim has to follow what the sportswear companies are doing. b eS iM Oze k Being a fashion driven industry means having serious capacities with the fastest deliveries and ﬂexibility. Together with being a serious cotton production, this is the greatest strength of Bossa. I think that one of the biggest potentials in Turkey

Join the neXt J’n’C Denim rounD table in 2019 The J’N´C Denim roundtable takes place at regular intervals. If you want to attend the upcoming roundtable – scheduled for 2019 – feel free to contact us. please write to pierre D'Aveta, p.daveta@jnc-net.de

Denim eXPorts

global Denim eXPorts toP 10 worlD Denim teXtile eXPorts (1,000 $) rank

exporters

exported value 2001

exported value 2006

exported value 2016

exported value 2017*

World

3,591,376

4,132,034

4,591,160

unascertained

China

409,861

852,311

1,757,850

unascertained

increase

pakistan

95,983

490,657

unascertained

increase

hong Kong, China

567,952

770,964

450,462

393,870

Turkey

173,789

265,118

393,665

368,597

increase

India

175,410

156,227

310,602

350,501

increase

USA

472,686

401,932

168,061

159,667

decrease

Italy

304,203

398,897

158,579

162,015

decrease

Japan

151,264

209,055

115,590

103,258

egypt

109,228

131,152

increase

Mexico

124,342

38,775

75,693

76,931

decrease

toP 10 turKey's Denim teXtile eXPorts (1,000 $) rank

importers

exported value 2015

exported value 2016

exported value 2017

2016 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 17 Cchange %

2017 share in %

World

378,272

393,665

368,597

-6.37 %

100.00 %

Tunisia

50,271

58,077

52,050

-10.38 %

14.12 %

egypt

40,663

42,584

47,401

11.31 %

12.86 %

Italy

57,133

49,536

40,053

-19.14 %

10.87 %

Morocco

21,519

39,337

36,906

-6.18 %

10.01 %

Bangladesh

28,102

26,056

33,875

30.01 %

9.19 %

hong Kong, China

27,578

23,503

23,435

-0.29 %

6.36 %

germany

14,533

17,139

19,845

15.79 %

5.38 %

USA

13,251

15,067

13,569

-9.94 %

3.68 %

China

12,419

14,135

13,528

-4.29 %

3.67 %

hungary

7,025

9,930

7.,785

-21.60 %

2.11 %

rank

Country

2016 $

2017 $

Change $ in %

share in % 2017

All Countries

1,598,951,394

1,702,372,509

6.50 %

100.00 %

Spain

269,481,040

328,791,020

germany

287,043,450

307,308,664

18.10 %

United Kingdom

247,219,051

266,311,631

Netherlands

130,269,163

159,994,992

22.80 %

Denmark

121,227,798

113,252,031

-6.60 %

6.70 %

Italy

66,954,195

65,458,049

-2.20 %

3.80 %

France

55,637,141

60,250,128

8.30 %

3.50 %

USA

40,228,236

45,031,168

11.90 %

2.60 %

Czech republic

38,956,545

39,176,395

0.60 %

2.30 %

Sweden

24,178,887

33,163,583

37.20 %

1.90 %

toP 10 turKey's Denim Clothing eXPort

sILvEr JEANs

F E At u r E

DAzzLINg DENIm DIvErsIty As a brand that goes with the ﬂow and is in tune with the times, Silver Jeans celebrates female empowerment and offeres cuts for every mood and body shape.

Plus-size model Sarina Nowak (left) and Danielle Ifrah looking chill in their Silver Jeans

key issues of our time: female empowerment. In keeping with this spirit, the designs – made of soft yet durable fabrics – focus on freedom of movement, personal wellbeing and authenticity that highlight the shape of the body. Styles and washes are very much in tune with the times and decidedly more relaxed and comfortable. Their range includes bootcut, slim, straight and skinny silhouettes to suit every mood. Bootcuts invoke bohemian spirit with subtle Western details. The 80s and 90s waistfocused silhouettes are still A HIP LOOK AND FEEL going strong , with the addition of multi seams and yokes. The SS19 women’s collection by Outstanding reinterpretations Silver Jeans goes by the slogan “Pursuit of Happiness”, a nod to of much loved classics: the washes are based upon Amerithe “unalienable rights” in the US Declaration of Independence. can heritage with a certain vintage vibe that highlights the Along with life and liberty, the collection celebrates one of the character of each fabric.

and plus-size lines are leaving no one out in the rain. Fans of Silver Jeans know and value what they will get: the company’s roots in workwear translate into high-quality fabrics, reinforced stitching techniques, rivets and buttons with incredible strength as well as craft, skill and unrivaled attention to detail. Silver Jeans garments are made to last – an absolute asset in times when sustainability seems to be on everyone's agenda.

For the SS19 womenswear campaign, Silver Jeans stresses diversity and celebrates the many different shapes of the female body with a lot of relaxed and comfortable styles.

HArPer SmITH

stablished in 1991, Silver Jeans Co.’s rich history dates back to 1921, when the denim production by the first generation Silver family was part of Western Glove Works. So not only is Silver Jeans the second oldest denim manufacturer in North America but they were also right on time with their designs. Or even slightly ahead, for example, when they created a pair of unisex jeans called “Frisco”in 1991, three years before the concept of unisex products spread like wildfire with the Calvin Klein scent CK One. And they went on to sell 2 million pairs. Since then, their collection has expanded to include a variety of fits. Diversity is key: straight, curvy, tall, short, slim, muscular or somewhere in between – since beauty comes in all shapes and sizes, Silver Jeans men’s, ladies’

SUMMER STYLES 2018 SEPTEMBER 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3

THE PLACE FOR LEATHER INTERNATIONAL LEATHER GOODS FAIR OFFENBACH

J'N'C Magazine 3/2018

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