J'N'C Magazine 4/2014 by J'N'C Magazine

JEANSWEAR And CONTEMPORARY FASHION

English

No 58 / 4-2014

Cool Cities Stockholm Street Styles Retail Talks ANd Service

INterviewS: Alexander Stutterheim, Ann Ringstrand, Carl Malmgren, Eno Polo, Jörg Wichmann

D 9.50 Eur B/NL/A 10.50 EUr E/P/I 11.50 Eur CH 15.80 CHF

Editorial

Print Or Online? That seems to be the crucial question for many publishing houses at the moment, with a large proportion of the traditional magazines coming under increasing pressure due to dwindling readership figures and reticent advertising clients.

We believe in 360° journalism that fulfils all the needs of our readers.

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At the same time, we have also been nurturing and taking care of our youngsters – the J’N’C blog, the J’N’C website and the J’N’C newsletter. In the capable hands of our online activists Magdalena Piotrowski and Cheryll Mühlen, these three platforms have come of age and now, after three and a half years, are the ideal additions to our print product offer. On jnc-net.de we not only post news from the fashion and retail industries several times a day, but also exclusive interviews, product presentations and reports on fashion shows from around the globe, including New York, London and Paris. Behind-the-scenes insights into the production of our city guides and fashion shoots give a taste of what is to come in the print editions. As well as our website being up to the minute, it also offers an additional service: you can access all

the city guides from the last 20 issues in a userfriendly package that even includes maps. There is also an extensive archive of our previous issues, with all the fashion editorials and street fashion styles included. But getting back to the day-to-day fashion business: our weekly J’N’C newsletter provides an overview of the most important developments in the industry that week, as well as links to selected blog articles, which also reference the print content. Fully tooled up, we want to continue meeting the requirements of an increasingly diversified market in the future, and provide an important service for our individualistic readership. And because your satisfaction is something we value deeply, we look forward to hearing your feedback on the new structuring of the J’N’C product family. Whatever it is you like about our publication, whatever you would like us to include or what you think we could improve on – please let us know!

Ilona Marx The morning view from the hotel window, of the Royal Palace of Stockholm shrouded in the early dawn mist, will stay in Ilona Marx’ memory for a long time to come. This has to be one of the most inspiring Cool Cities reports that she has had the privilege to work on over the past few years (and one of the sunniest). Find out more on page 28.

We look forward to hearing your opinions and suggestions and, as always, wish you an inspiring read.

READ THE GERMAN VERSION OF THIS EDITORIAL ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/ JNC_MAGAZINE

58 — 04/2014

An air of uncertainty regarding the future is making itself felt at the editorial offices of many magazines. After all, even in the online business only a few providers actually manage to profit financially from their services. And here at J’N’C of course we also want to meet the wishes and demands of our readership. Due to the fact that we, as magazine nerds, still fervently believe in the aesthetic and tangible advantages of print products, we gave both our mainstays – J’N’C Magazine and J’N’C News – an extensive makeover, to make them stand out even more in the crowd and increase their appeal amongs our readers.

CONTENTS

Ove r v i ew

CONTENTS

The Masterpieces

Ann Ringstrand, Hope 48

Stockholm Retail

Carl Malmgren, Cheap Monday

Fashion Shoots

Alexander Graah

58 — 04/2014

Street Styles

Eno Polo, Havaianas

ALexander Stutterheim

JÖRG WICHMANN, Panorama Berlin

MKI Miyuki-Soku Store 8

Denim Trends

Fashion Shoots

COntentS

Ove r v i ew

COntentS 7 8 10 12 14

Editorial Content Imprint Column / Contributors Bits & Pieces

The Masterpieces

Cool Cities Stockholm

Street Styles Retail Service Talks – Alexander Stutterheim, Stutterheim Talks – Carl Malmgren, Cheap Monday Talks – Ann Ringstrand, Hope

30 32 42 44 46 48

We’re Standing By berlin

Bread & Butter berlin, Denim by PrEmiÈre Vision premium exhibitions, panorama berlin The Gallery, Who’S Next ISPO, GDS Pitti uomo, Modefabriek

64 65 66 67 68

Fashion shoots heiko Laschitzki

Cargo Hub Gunnar Tufta

Havaianas Interview WITH Eno Polo

Katharina Poblotzki

We Have never Buckled

Awakened from a sleeping Beauty Slumber

Retail & Architecture MKI Miyuki-Soku, Leeds

Lucky in leeds Hans On!

Publishing Management Michael Rieck Editor-in-Chief Ilona Marx /im Associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

Hansa Berlin

Textiles & Trends The Big Blue

Where To Find Us

Ten Questions For

Dr. Denim

Hans-Berlin, Berlin

Managing Director Michael Rieck

Denim Trends Spring/Summer 2016

New Balance

Publisher B+B MEDIA COMPANY GmbH Hildebrandtstr. 24 d 40215 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de

Brooklyn Nets

Alberto Interview WITH Marco Lanowy

58 — 04/2014

Panorama Berlin Interview with Jörg Wichmann

Brands & Brains We Put a Smile On People’s Feet

TRADESHOWS

Freelance Contributors Gerlind Hector /gh, Susanna HighamMiska, Cheryll Mühlen /cm, Jemima Gnacke /jg, Eva Westhoff /ew, Fredericke Winkler /fw Photography Heiko Laschitzki, Peter Lorenz, Katharina Poblotzki, Gunnar Tufta, Bernd Wichmann Illustration Mathias Suess, Frauke Berg Translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley Design & Layout Martin Steinigen, chewing the sun, www.chewingthesun.com

Alexander Graah

Image Editing Jean Pascal Zahn Copy Editors Paula Hedley, Stefanie von der Heide, Eva Westhoff Head of Production Stefan Mugrauer Print Kössinger Druck, Schierling Advertising Director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 151 p.daveta@bb-mediacompany.com Price Germany 9.50 EUR A, NL, B 10.50 EUR; E, P, I 11.50 EUR Switzerland 15.80 CHF

Bank Details BTV Bank für Tirol u. Vorarlberg AG Acc. no. 772 898 000 Sort code 720 123 00 Data Protection Notice In the event that delivery is not possible under the address supplied, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The subscriber can appeal against this guideline/regulation. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. Place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases Düsseldorf.

Jan 19–21 STATION-Berlin www.p re m iu m e x h ib iti ons.com

Some of our

Contributors

Photo: Udo Hesse

column

TEXT Gerlind Hector Illustration Mathias Suess

Peter Lorenz ‘Don’t fight the feeling’: if creative work of Peter Lorenz is based on one guiding principle, then this is it. The Berlin photographer, whose second big love is moving images (his portfolio also includes advertising films and music videos), is known to draw inspiration from seemingly foreign genres like painting or literature. His freelance work is often abstract and monochrome. Art and commerce, a contradiction in terms? “Not if you act on your gut feelings.” Versatility rules – and all the more so since Peter started running the Berlin ‘Lightning Bolt Studio’ together with a graphic designer and a cameraman. For J’N’C he captured Stockholm’s “truly dreamlike light” on camera. /ew

C o l um n

58 — 04/2014

Barbie meets Bob

Fashion is a reflection of the times! That’s something every fashion design hopeful learns in their first semester. Here’s an example: around a hundred years ago when women came up with the crazy, unfeminine idea of fighting for their right to vote by taking to the barricades, they promptly parted with the sartorial manifestations of their subservience: by chopping off their hair and throwing their corsets in the bin. Around fifty years later, in the wild 70s, women were once again present on the political stage, protesting against the Vietnam War and taking part in student revolts or demonstrations against the oil crisis. Jeans, parka and trainers became the uniform du jour for men and women alike. If we look close enough, it has been possible to explain pretty much every new fashion trend in cultural-historical terms. Until now! After all, in times of Ebola, ISIS and Putin panic, a crazy new trend is suddenly emerging, which really doesn’t correspond to any of the horrors we are hearing about in the news: “LOL-core”, as in “Laughing Out Loud”. Hot contenders for the title of “This Season’s Most Ridiculous Designer” would be Yohji Yamamoto with his cosy Manga blanket-like capes, Markus Lupfer and his little comic print dresses, and of course Jeremy Scott, who in his role as designer for Moschino is not only sending SpongeBob sweaters and McDonalds uniforms down the catwalks, but is also trying to get us into the whole Barbie hype all over again. Not that it requires an ounce of ingenuity of course, because all he’s done is reproduce existing Barbie clothes in real-life sizes and given his models a make-

over with big hair and lashings of make-up. What the hell, we ask ourselves, is the message that Jeremy is trying to tell us? Something like “It’s fantastic, life in plastic,” now that we’re demonising plastic bags and the first packaging-free supermarket has just opened in Berlin? Or simply “Imagination, life is your creation,” just like the Swedish band Aqua chirped at us in their Barbie Song? We’re baffled! The countertrend, however, is already in the starting blocks: and it goes by the name of worker couture! In New York, fashion editors have apparently started sauntering around in boiler suits. Karl Lagerfeld is showing tweed overalls and Dior’s contribution is nylon gilets with six pockets on the front. Extremely practical – and very much channelling the look of Bob the Builder. What was that about a countertrend?! Are you seeing the connection? Taking into account the negative news situation, the top dogs of the design league really seem to have run out of ideas, and, out of pure frustration, are resorting to their favourite fictitious characters from their childhood days. Psychologists would probably suggest they are searching for their “inner child,” where they can escape to when real life gets too tough. The layman would call it the “Peter Pan syndrome” – Michael Jackson springs to mind. So don’t be surprised if we soon see chunky muse Beth Ditto tottering down the runway as Maya the Bee, Cara Delevingne as Monchichi and Natalia Vodianova as Maggie Simpson. Yes we hear you, Jeremy! But we don’t really have to buy this stuff, do we?

Cheryll Mühlen When she was a child her mother called her ‘Benetton’. Because colour blocking had always been her thing, before she even knew what it was. The J’N’C trainee editor went on to learn all about that and more during her fashion journalism degree at the AMD Academy of Fashion & Design in Düsseldorf. Nowadays she describes herself as a “posh nerd” with a penchant for flash cars. And says if she won the lottery she would invest in a Chevrolet Camaro: “I don‘t need a big house, I need a big garage.” But Cheryll, whose mother is from the Philippines, also has other passions: her French bulldog-pug mix Paul, and sauerkraut gratin. What Cheryll likes about fashion? “It’s complex and superficial at the same time.” /ew

Galina Green According to Galina Green, good fashion isn’t rocket science. It’s simply a case of craftsmanship, skill, marketing and luck. She has a down-to-earth attitude when it comes to fashion icons – despite the fact that the daughter of a German and a Brit has witnessed the meteoric rise of Berlin fashion at first hand over the last 20 years. That’s how long the mother of two daughters has lived in Prenzlauer Berg, after leaving London behind. Galina runs a successful translation agency together with Paula Hedley (Trend Translations), which is also responsible for the English translation of J’N’C. Her degrees in textile design and German have stood her in good stead. She still remembers her first ever translation job: for the German band Rammstein, some of whom she shared a flat with. Despite her efforts, however, the band has stuck firmly to singing in German. /ew

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I ON A L FA SHI ON T R A DE SHO W | 19 – 2 1 J A N 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

Bits & Pieces

Bits & Pieces Patrick Mohr x K1x:

adidas originals

By Mary Katrantzou

MK5

The collaboration between Munich streetwear label K1X and German designer Patrick Mohr is entering its fifth round. With the Mk5, the team is presenting a sneaker that combines basketball culture and avantgarde fashion. It is made of smooth leather and is available in three colours: black, white and red. Added highlights are the embossed, geometric pattern on the side panels and detachable ankle strap that runs from the heel to the tongue. Another feature is Mohr’s iconic wooden triangle on a removable leather patch. We like! /cm www.patrick-mohr.com

Empire State of Mind

Gsus:

Since it was established in 1993 the Dutch label Gsus has stayed true to its ‘twisted classics’ and ‘rebellious’ style, continuing to follow its own instinct of harmonious confrontation. For its S/S 2015 collection the brand has taken inspiration from New York’s melting pot atmosphere, referencing the city’s typical attributes: frenetic, turbulent and loud. And they have definitely succeeded in translating them into the collection: the result is an impulsive, cool look! /cm www.g-sus.com

www.k1x.com

Renowned for her fine flair for aesthetics, prints and brightly coloured designs, the young Greek designer Mary Katrantzou experienced a meteoric rise a few seasons ago. And she is now giving the Adidas Originals collection her own signature look with subversive graphics and architectural shapes. Katrantzou visited the Adidas Originals archive for inspiration, focusing on historical running silhouettes from the seventies and eighties. She has reinterpreted the iconic running sneaker models Equipment Racer and ZX 5000 as well as the classic Adidas trefoil logo with her vision of femininity in the 21st century. The designer sets great store by figure-accentuating silhouettes and uses a vibrant colour palette as well as kaleidoscopic patterns in her work. In addition to sneakers, the collection also includes a coat dress, a mini dress, a training jacket, leggings and tailored T-shirts. /cm

58 — 04/2014

www.adidas.de/originals

c on t em porary f ash ion t ra de s how

Stone Island:

Camouflage mode Camouflage garments are supposed to conceal the wearer, making it difficult or impossible to see them in their surroundings. But this hooded sweatshirt by the Italian menswear label Stone Island does exactly the opposite: the camouflage cotton fleece of this fine piece from the spring/summer 2015 collection is what makes it really stand out in the first place. A practical feature is its detachable hood made of rubberised muslin, a special bonded muslin and polyurethane film, or ‘mussola gommata’ as the Italians call it. /cm www.stoneisland.com

a utumn / winter 2015 / 16 NEW LOCATION

January 19 t h - 21 s t 2015 ARENA BERLIN

w w w .seekexh ibit ion s.com

GDS-ONLINE.COM

Bits & Pieces

Burton:

Snowboard Art Who needs a brush when you have talent in your fingers? New York artist Judith Braun is showing how outstanding creative performances can be achieved completely without tools, using nothing but her fingers dipped in charcoal dust. She is renowned for her impressive work, which has absolutely nothing in common with primitive finger painting. And now the artist has transferred her characteristic, dynamic and swirling patterns onto a board from the ‘Feelgood’ collection by US snowboard company Burton. We can’t imagine a more artistic way of gliding down snow-covered slopes. /cm www.burton.com Replay:

Hyperflex custommade:

Brazilian model Alessandra Ambrosio donned a white lab coat as a scientist leading the tests in which dancers and FC Barcelona football stars, including Neymar Jr., Gerard Piqué, Luis Suárez and Andrés Iniesta, show off their moves to put the new Replay Hyperflex collection by the Italian jeans label through its paces. And the jeans passed these unusual tests with flying colours, standing out with their high elasticity, great shape retention and ultimate comfort – thanks to the ideal mix of lycra, polyester and cotton. So come on, ‘Stretch your limits!’ /cm

Icy Summer

DÜSSELDORF 4 – 6 FEB 2015 29– 31 JUL 2015

Light, romantic ease meets cool, tough edginess – this fascinating mix defines the character of the S/S 2015 collection by Custommade. The Danish womenswear label manages to tread the fine line between feminine fragility and unwavering strength, by defusing the sharply tailored silhouettes with fresh ice cream colours. A cosmopolitan summer collection for the modern superwoman. /cm

www.replay.it

www.custommade.dk

Pantone Universe x Case Scenario:

For The Next Generation Berlin Boombox:

58 — 04/2014

Old-School feat. new sounds Just the sound of its name instantly transports us back to the eighties! The ‘Yo! MTV Raps Boombox’ is the latest addition to the product family of German sound company Berlin Boombox. Combining a unique cardboard sound system with nostalgic MTV culture, it was presented by the designer and illustrator Axel Pfaender in autumn at the Maison & Objet trade fair in Paris. The loudspeaker comes as a self-assembly kit consisting of all electronic parts and the die-cut cardboard structure. And putting it all together is very simple – without any need for technical expertise or tools. Then all you have to do is connect your smartphone or MP3 player and it’s time to get the party started. And an even newer creation is already in the starting blocks: the ‘Berlin Boombox Cube’. We can’t wait! /cm

The back-pocket bending scandal surrounding the iPhone 6 Plus was referred to as ‘Bendgate’. But it wouldn’t be Apple without a little controversy to accompany the hype. That’s all water under the bridge now though. And for all those lucky enough to own the newest of the new, there is also a large selection of iPhone cases available. Like the colourful Pantone Shades collection in cooperation with Monaco-based company Case Scenario. Available in the four colours Cyan Blue, Lime Green, Aurora and Calypso Plus, the hard case protects from everyday dangers. /cm www.pantoneuniverse.com www.case-scenario.com

www.berlinboombox.com 16

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The Masterpieces

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The Masterpieces Editor’s Pick

J’N’C Proudly Presents: The masterpieces that have what it takes to become true classics

TEXT CHeryll Mühlen

WWW.JNC-NET.DE

58 — 04/2014

Photos Bernd Wichmann

WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/JNCMAGAZINE & WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/JNC_MAGAZINE 19

58 — 04/2014

Regina Kings of Indigo ‘Regina’ might sound oldfashioned at first, but the Latin word actually means ‘queen’. So bearing that in mind, it’s the perfect name for this cool bomber jacket by K.O.I. The hand-printed, geometric pattern on the soft natural indigo cotton jacket definitely triggers a

‘must-have’ feeling amongst the more style-conscious ladies out there. Its unique look is created with the ‘woodblock technique’. Wooden blocks are dipped into a solution of natural products like gum and black soil before being pressed onto the fabric. A dirt-resistant surface is formed.

A fine sand, which is then spread over the fabric, supports the drying process while guaranteeing the longevity of the print. The items are soaked in water for one to three days and then dipped into a natural indigo bath. The dirt-resistant solution leaves the fabric clean where it has been

www.kingsofindigo.com 20

The Masterpieces

Recycle Me – Knowledge Cotton Apparel

PET Recycle RAin Jacket Knowledge Cotton Apparel pressed by the woodblock – or at least most of it. The indigo dye is prone to bleeding, revealing traces of the handwork that has gone into creating it. Amsterdam craftsmanship at its best!

Seeing the planet as a living organism instead of a bottomless pit of raw materials is the approach aspired to by Knowledge Cotton Apparel. The goal of the Danish brand is to save the environment a total of 150 tonnes in damaging chemicals, fertilisers and

pesticides by the year 2015. And to fulfil this aim they are not only using GOTS-certified organic cotton and wool from certified organic sheep farming, but also polyester from recycled PET bottles. That’s right, discarded plastic drinks bottles are being

turned into timeless classics made of 100 percent polyethylene terephthalate (PET). One of these classics is the lightweight ‘PET Recycle Rain Jacket’ in navy, made from a total of 25 bottles, which, in addition to the zipper and press studs, needs nothing

more than two big pockets and a hood with visor. This masterpiece keeps out the rain and protects the environment. ‘Gain Knowledge. Take Action. Earn Respect.’

58 — 04/2014

The Masterpieces

Pattern Pros – Kings of Indigo

www.knowledgecottonapparel.com 21

58 — 04/2014

Hudson Customised PME LEgend Pin-ups, cartoons or word plays painted on the front fuselage – also known as ‘nose art’ – were not only a popular method of individualising fighter planes during the First and Second World Wars, but were also thought to bring luck to the aircraft’s crew members when they were in ac-

tion. So it’s only logical that the men controlling the planes would eventually discover the symbolism of nose art for themselves. And what would a genuine pilot be without his flight jacket? The Dutch brand PME Legend had a series of their leather flight jackets hand-painted by the extre-

mely talented painter Josh in the typical ‘nose art’ design at the Bread & Butter tradeshow in January. And one of them has made it into this issue’s Masterpieces: the Hudson bomber jacket made of buffalo aniline grain leather. It is based on the MA-1 flight jacket, which was worn during the First

www.pme-legend.com 22

The Masterpieces

For the Batgirls – Drykorn

Cape Drykorn World War by the U.S. Air Force, to protect pilots from the cold temperatures up in the air. And as if all that weren’t enough, the impressive vintage artwork on the back makes the jacket one of a kind, ‘wow’ effect included.

When the wind is whipping around our ears, the rain is pelting down on our shoulders and the dampness is giving us chills, it must be April. During this month of rain showers, the right jacket not only keeps us dry, but can also warm the cockles

of our hearts. The spring/summer 2015 ladies’ windbreaker model ‘Cape’ by German label Drykorn is a hot contender for the coveted position of the ‘most wanted’ springtime jacket. With its wide batwing arms, large kangaroo pockets, waterfall col-

lar and oversized hood, this cape definitely ticks all the boxes when it comes to looking cool but still protecting us from the pouring rain. And thanks to its eye-catching black leather, it’s also sure to turn heads. The partially mesh lining is 63 percent cupro and 37

percent cotton, making it both breathable and quick-drying in moist conditions. The perfect Batgirl armour for those persistent April showers!

58 — 04/2014

The Masterpieces

Artwork – PME LEgend

www.drykorn.com 23

The Masterpieces

Natural Beauty – Bree

58 — 04/2014

Stockholm 3 Bree It was the Germans, well okay, the Germans and the Dutch, who brought the European sport of bowling to the New World. In the year 1837, due to widespread gambling, the sport was banned in Connecticut in the USA, which led to the birth of bowling as we know it today. One more skittle was added (making ten in total),

the skittles were renamed pins and arranged in a triangle instead of a square, the new sport was christened bowling… et voilà: the locals cleverly managed to circumvent the ban. And bowling bags became all the rage shortly afterwards. In keeping with this issue’s ‘Cool City’ we are presenting the ‘Stockholm 3’ by German

leather specialist Bree. This bowling bag made of vegetable tanned leather has a detachable and adjustable shoulder strap with shoulder stopper, as well as a two-way zip, a zipped compartment on the back and two loops. Personal belongings are safely stored in another zipped compartment and the two sleeve

www.bree.com 24

pockets. Three pen holders and a key fob mean that desperate searching in the vast depths of the bag universe becomes a thing of the past. And the base protectors on the bottom of the bag prevent it from getting dirty when it’s placed on the floor. Strike!

The Masterpieces

Dark Icon — Dr. Martens

58 — 04/2014

1460 Mono Dr. Martens Never in a million years could Dr. Klaus Maertens have ever dreamt that his boots would one day become an icon of (subcultural) fashion. And why would he? After all, he designed the prototype for purely practical purposes. After breaking his leg in a skiing

accident in the Bavarian Alps, the former German soldier wanted to design a shoe with an air-filled sole. No sooner said than done. Even if his first attempt wasn’t quite as perfect as he would have liked: with their inimitable look, today Dr. Martens boots are

regarded as true fashion classics. Just like the colour black. Which explains the success of the 1460 Mono Boot. The eight-eyelet model is made of smooth leather with a soft finish and has the patented Dr. Martens air-cushion sole. It is also oil and grease-re-

www.drmartens.com 26

sistant and offers good abrasion and slip resistance. Made with a Goodyear welt, the upper and the sole are heat-sealed and sewn together. “I’m happy that new life has been injected into the boot,” Maertens said. And we are too!

Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2 | Stockholm | Sweden | +46 (0)8 22 31 60 | www.lydmar.com

Cool Cities / Stockholm

TEXT Ilona Marx PhotoS Peter Lorenz

Cool Cities

Stockholm Stockholm glistens in the late summer sunlight. A short exploratory bike ride and you’ll soon discover breathtaking cityscapes. And no wonder, considering the geography of the place: the Swedish capital is spread over 14 large and small islands, as if a dozen dice had been scattered around the point where Lake Mälaren opens out into the Baltic Sea. A spectacular location, which, combined with the legendary Scandinavian light, gives Stockholm its unique character and justifies its often-praised beauty.

58 — 04/2014

It’s not just in terms of fashion that the men seem to have caught up with women.

Of course the grass is always greener on the other side and so when you’re there it’s easy to see that some fashion-savvy Swedes certainly have grounds for complaint: everyone seems to be wearing a kind of fashion uniform, everyone is wearing the same brands – all of them local labels in minimalist styles and always in the same colours: navy and black. One should add that the critics themselves are far from wearing crazy prints with exotic colours by newcomer brands from, let’s say, Estonia; they also stick to the Swedish fashion codex – looking just as smart, fashionable and minimalist as a noticeably large proportion of the public. When we did our street style shoot it was clear that the men of Stockholm in particular enjoy a little armchair grousing about the city’s fashions. And it’s not just in terms of fashion that the men seem to have caught up with women. When it comes to childcare, the Swedish man is thoroughly egalitarian too – the cityscape is dominated by men pushing prams, over 50% in fact.

Here you’ll see styling and fashion that won’t hit our streets for another two years. There’s no doubt about it: the small-town feeling of cosiness that comes over you as soon as you turn off one of the main shopping streets provides the ideal conditions for family life in an urban environment – accordingly, the Swedes are having less of a struggle than the rest of the European countries when it comes to negative demographics. This is especially palpable in the district of Södermalm, which borders the Old Town, Gamla Stan, to the south. This is the indie epicentre, with rows of small vintage and designer shops, record stores and galleries, cafés and bars. And the place to spot styles that won’t be hitting our streets for another two years. And as you can see from the streetscape in Södermalm, the days of minimalism, which even their most advocating proponents are starting to complain about, are numbered. In SoFo (short for South of Folkungagatan), as the hipster district calls itself in ironic reference to New York’s equally hipster district, people like to experiment. The centre of ‘cool’ is fashion-forward, has its finger on the pulse and is currently pushing for an individualistic, humorous, print-dominated oversized look. Just think Henrik Vibskov from neighbouring Denmark. So we are eager to see what the independently-minded, aesthetic Swedes will be bringing to the table over the next few seasons. Check out the following pages for a taste of what’s to come.

Read the GERMAN VERSION OF this Guide on WWW.JNC-NET.DE

STOCKHOLM IN NUMBERS Founded as a city in: 1252 No. of islands in Stockholm: 14 No. of bridges in Stockholm: over 50 Population: approx. 870,000 Proportion of population with blonde hair: 45 – 50%

Absolutely

Proportion of population with naturally blonde hair: 25%

everything here

Proportion of population with blue eyes: 80 – 85% Average male body height: 1.80 m Average female body height: 1.67 m Average rent price in Stockholm: between 10,000 and 15,000 SEK (approx. €1000 to €1500) per month Price of a beer: approx. 45 SEK (approx. €5)

just seems so beautiful: the interior design, the people, the fashion, everyday items and yes, even life itself.

58 — 04/2014

As if all of that weren’t enough, what you find on the streets, in the shops and in the restaurants, seems so beautiful in the classic sense too: the interior design, the people, the fashion, everyday items and, yes, even life itself. That may sound naïve and innocent, but what Central European traveller doesn’t enjoy being blinded a little by Stockholm’s beauty? Especially when you come from a country where the number of architectural blunders sometimes seems to outnumber actual residents. And where the population seems to be more interested in waterproofing and breathability than in the elegant cut of their clothing or the use of high-quality materials.

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Street Styles

Stockholm Street Styles Manne, 31, writer

Jacket Cantarelli Hampus, 28, designer for the label Blue Highway

Shirt Our Legacy Trousers Vigano Shoes Alfred Sargent Glasses Persol Bag Filson Oscar, 22, musician

Shirt, trousers & braces Levi’s Vintage Shoes Grenson Cap Mister Freedom

Nisse, 34, radio host, modern media

Shirt Madcap Everything else Vintage

Jacket, shirt & scarf Rose & Born Trousers Filippa K Shoes A.P.C. Glasses Ray-Ban

“The people here

Peter, 27, nutritionist

in Stockholm are very conscious of

“People don’t

what they wear.

like you to

That means it’s

see the effort

really easy to

they’ve put

recognise us by

into their

our clothing

outfits.”

when we’re

Jasmine

Jacket Maison Martin Margiela Shirt Rick Owens Trousers Nudie Shoes Guidi

“The Swedes are at the forefront of European minimalism.” Henrik Maarit, 35, graphic designer Coat Filippa K Blouse COS Skirt Tailor-made Shoes AGL Large bag Vintage Small bag 2OR+BYYAT

abroad.” åsa

Jasmine, 22, sales assistant T-shirt Helmut Lang Trousers Rick Owens Shoes Ann Demeulemeester

Pullover Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair Shirt Marni for H&M Trousers Acne Shoes Our Legacy Åsa, 38, sales T-shirt, trousers & shoes Hope Watch Casio Necklaces from her childhood

Kristian, 31, co-owner of fashion store Aplace Jacket A.O.CMS Shirt Aplace Monochrome Sweater Acne Trousers Henrik Vibskov Sneakers Adidas Cap Aplace

Henrik, 28, owner of the creative agency Meraki Studio

Olga, 17, student

Jacket & shirt Acne Trousers Alexander Wang Shoes Eytys Watch Rolex Submariner ProHunter

Coat Weekday Dress ASOS Tights H&M Shoes Vagabond

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Kalle, 35, co-owner of fashion store Aplace

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Retail

Stockholm Retail

Grandpa Södermannagatan 21 116 40 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6436080 Unionville

Opening times

Katarina Bangata 69 116 42 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6433915

Mon – Fri 11 am – 6:30 pm Sat 11 am – 5 pm Sun noon – 5 pm

Opening times Mon – Wed + Fri noon – 6 pm Thurs noon – 7 pm Sat 11:30 am – 4:30 pm WWW.unionville.se Brands Blue Highway, Duluth Pack, Edwin, Johnson Woolen Mills, Larry Smith Jewelry, Lee Originals, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Lewis Leathers, Mister Freedom, Momotaro, Pendleton, Red Wing Shoes, Rising Sun & Co., Spellbound, Unionville, Warpath Leather Goods

Fridhemsgatan 43 112 46 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6436081 Brands

Opening times

A.O.CMS, Adidas, Areaware, Base Range, Brixton, By Mutti, Carin Wester, Converse, Cornelia, Dr. Martens, Edwin, Frama, Gant Rugger, Grandpa, Han Kjøbenhavn, Happy Socks, Hope, Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Le Specs, Merz b. Schwanen, Minimarket, New Balance, Otter 1840, Patagonia, Qwstion, Rodebjer, Sandqvist, Tanner Goods, Uniforms for the Dedicated, Veja, Zuny

Mon – Fri 11 am – 7 pm Sat 11 am – 5 pm Sun noon – 4 pm www.grandpa.se

One of the trio’s principles is changing the

joy of Hampus had close business ties with the Sivletto team. Not only do they recommend each other to their retro-loving clientele, but they also run an online store together – even though their tastes differ decidedly when it comes to the style decade. While Sivletto remains dedicated to the fifties, the two boys from Unionville are fans of the twenties and thirties. In addition to new denims (their portfolio includes labels like Levi’s Vintage Clothing,

and Douglas, more and more women are also finding their way to the purely menswearoriented shop.

shop as often as

Grandpa Rising Sun & Co. and Mister Freedom, USA, as well as Momotaro from Japan), the Luhankos have specialised in repairs and customising their clients’ favourite jeans. Increasingly, to the joy of Hampus and Douglas, women are also finding their way to the purely menswear-oriented shop. And the two owners both agree that the men’s models look just as good on the ladies.

Grandpa is actually the nickname of one of the founders of the eponymous multi-brand store, the popular store concept with three branches. Anders Johansson, affectionately known as ‘Grandpa’, laughs about how he was christened by his former boss back when he was still waiting tables – and how he then used it for his brand. Before becoming a storeowner, Anders

possible. travelled a lot – together with his former colleagues and present business partners and friends Jonas Pelz and Martin Sundberg. That’s how the three of them discovered the idea of the ‘Concept Store’ which was sorely missing in his hometown of Stockholm. So the trio took things into their own hands with plenty of youthful enthusiasm. Ten years ago in the indie Södermalm district they

opened their first store, which they filled with a combination of Swedish fashion brands, vintage interior design and both useful and beautiful home accessories – a pioneering idea at the time. One of the hard and fast principles of the enthusiastic threesome is changing the look of the

shop as often as possible. Which is no problem at all as Anders is a passionate hobby carpenter and Jonas seems to have only narrowly missed his true calling as interior designer. A visit to the recently opened Grandpa store on Fridhemsgatan is especially recommended: the premises are even more spacious than those on Södermannagatan and boast a really nice café with terrace.

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Their friendship with the owners of nearby fifties vintage paradise Sivletto was a key factor in the choice of location for the brains behind the Unionville denim store on Katarina Bangata. Hampus and Douglas Luhanko, two self-professed denim nerds, had previously produced their own jeans under the label name Blue Highway in a cellar in Eskilstuna, before moving their studio to Stockholm – and opening their own store. The brothers already

look of the

Much to the

Unionville

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Retail

The Asplund designs can hold their own without dominating or appearing too overbearing.

Brands

‘Slow fashion’ is the name of the game

Asplund

Accademia, Ann Idstein, Arper, Artemide, Asplund, B&B Italia, Bruno Mathsson International, Campeggi, Cappellini, Carl Hansen & Son, Duravit, e15, Established & Sons, Fontana Arte, Fredericia, FSB, Gebrüder Thonet Vienna, Georg Jensen, Gervasoni, Glas Italia, Holmegaard, Kristalia, Living Divani, Luceplan, Metalarte, Moooi, Porro, Riva 1920, Søren Lund, Tom Dixon, Vola, When Objects Work, Zero

The two brothers Michael and Thomas Asplund literally grew with their business. Almost a quarter of a century ago, during a period of economic growth, the two interior design fans opened a gallery, selling furniture as art objects. They were soon au fait with the international design scene and began getting their own designs produced. Today Asplund items are sold all over the world: from Europe via the

US to Thailand and New Zealand. But the only flagship store worldwide is on Sibyllegatan in Stockholm’s Östermalm district. This is where the Asplund designs (primarily dining tables, shelving and carpets, but recently also kitchens), are complemented by furniture and home accessories by other labels. What they all have in common is an air of comfortable restraint; none of the designs dominate or appear too

at JUS. JUS Brunnsgatan 7 111 38 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 206777 Opening times Tues – Fri noon – 6 pm Sat noon – 4 pm

JUS

overbearing; they are timeless and easily combinable. Thomas’s wife Sandra has also been part of the team for almost twenty years and is responsible for her own collections as creative director. Two interior design architects, who advise the clientele, round off the Asplund team.

Asplund Sibyllegatan 31 114 42 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6625284 Opening times Mon – Fri 11 am – 6 pm Sat 11 am – 4 pm www.asplund.org

This concept rightly deserves its place in every European metropolis – an avant-garde store that brings together the protagonists of the international fashion world in its portfolio, including Maison Martin Margiela, Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons, Alexander Wang and Helmut Lang. In Stockholm this fashionable spearhead going by the name of JUS is located in a quiet side street just a few hundred

WWW.jus.se

metres away from the commercial Stureplan square. The ‘Big Seven’ are also flanked by Swedish brands, some of whom JUS owner Ulrika Nilsson, a seasoned fashion trader, also does the distribution for, in addition to running the store. This of course results in wonderful synergies: Ulrika can support the labels she distributes and also sees at first hand which items from which collections elicit the best responses from her clientele.

Although high turnover isn’t her first priority. At JUS ‘slow fashion’ is the name of the game. The overwhelmingly black-white-grey clothing on offer is too good (and too expensive) to be worn for just one season. So the JUS clientele simply updates their wardrobes with one or two items at regular intervals. Perfect style is always guaranteed, because Ulrika is 100% committed to tough looks with sophisticated tailoring.

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Brands

Ann Demeulemeester, ATP Atelier, Comme des Garçons Shirt, Comme des Garçons Homme, Comme des Garçons Play, Comme des Garçons Wallets, Dries Van Noten, Diana Orving, Guidi, Haider Ackermann, Horisaki, Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela, Marséll, Pamela Love, Rick Owens, Rick Owens DRKSHDW, Silent by Damir Doma, T by Alexander Wang, Yasar Aydin, Werkstatt München

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Retail

Från Ö Till A Götgatan 105 116 62 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6441030 Opening times Mon – Fri 11 am – 7 pm Sat noon – 5 pm Sun noon – 4 pm www.franotilla.com

Nitty Gritty Men’s store Krukmakargatan 26 118 51 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6582440 Opening times Mon – Fri 11 am – 6:30 pm Sat 11 am – 5 pm Sun noon – 4 pm Nitty Gritty Ladies’ store Krukmakargatan 24 118 51 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 6582441 Opening times Mon – Fri 11 am – 6:30 pm Sat 11 am – 5 pm Sun noon – 4 pm

Brands

Örjan has stuck

www.nittygrittystore.com Brands

to what he does best —

A.P.C., Adidas, Comme des Garçons Shirt, Common Projects, Converse, Diemme, Drake’s, Helmut Lang, Isabel Marant, Jerome Dreyfuss, Kiehl’s, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Marni, Moscot, New Balance, Nike Sportswear, Nitty Gritty, Patagonia, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Red Wing Shoes, Reebok, Stone Island, Sunspel, Vans

and what he probably enjoys most.

Nitty Gritty

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Från Ö Till A

Örjan Andersson, owner of the unusual denim store Från Ö Till A, is certainly no unknown entity in Stockholm. After all, this is the man who founded the cult label Cheap Monday and laid the foundation stone for Weekday with his shop ‘Weekend’. Even back then he was known as the jeans professor amongst the denim nerds, because he was so dedicated to his chosen mate-

rial and always had an answer to every question. Cheap Monday is now sold and developing under H&M’s wing. Weekday also belongs to the vertically integrated Swedish retail giant. And Örjan? Well, he has stuck to what he does best – and what he probably enjoys most. He runs his own independent denim label, sold in his own store – just like back in the day. The shop at the

bottom end of Götgatan, where the shopping mile of Södermalm merges into one of the many Stockholm bridges, is not only rather tricky to find, but also very unusual on the inside. On the second basement level of the store several very small labyrinthine-like floors open up into a large square space, dominated by a bar with a brass-covered front and a table tennis table.

Down here Örjan primarily sells vintage fashion, whilst the other cabinet-like rooms are reserved for his own line and several other European fashion brands. It will be interesting to see if Örjan’s new project strikes the nerve of the young fashion crowd in the same way that his past projects have.

Let’s get straight down to the nitty gritty: in this spacious lightfilled concept store the focus is on the important things in life for fashion-conscious Stockholm locals. High-quality, relaxed, timeless clothing for every situation, the perfect footwear, the matching accessories, the right fragrance and – last but not least – a good haircut, are all part of the deal for a male Stockholm native, more so than in many other parts

Nitty Gritty has of Europe. The owners of Nitty Gritty established the label back in the 1990s. Back then they wanted to create a counterpoint to the predominance of department store fashion and opened a shop that referenced the mod movement of the late seventies. Their concept took off. In addition to the large menswear store on the trendy Krukmakargatan street in Södermalm, there is also a small ladieswear branch

remained true to its concept of offering an alternative to the mainstream of the city centre.

just a couple of doors up. With international labels like A.P.C., Marni and Comme des Garçons in its portfolio, Nitty Gritty has remained true to its concept of offering an alternative to the mainstream of the city centre, which is completely dominated by Scandinavian labels. And the haircuts are not off-the-peg either: the integrated Studio DOM makes sure both men and women are coiffed to perfection.

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5Preview, Acne, Altewaisaome, Ashley Williams, Common Affairs, Cornelia Webb, Kaibosh, Kitsuné, L’Homme Rouge, Marque/Almeida, Nhu Duong, Örjan Andersson, Patouf, Teeeshit, SSideline, Stutterheim, Surface to Air, Suzywan Deluxe

Kiki Originally, Naoko and Noritake Akechi wanted to open a store in Japan, in their hometown Tokyo, selling Swedish design. With this plan in mind the couple travelled to Scandinavia for inspiration. But no sooner had they arrived, did they fall in love with the surrounding countryside. They decided to stay, opening a shop for Japanese design in 2009 in Stockholm instead. Lucky for the Swedes, who now get to enjoy the wonderful selection of handpicked Japanese interior design and homewear items.

Whyred

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Retail +

Stockholm Retail +

WWW.ki-ki.se

Compared to the number of inhabitants, the density of national fashion labels that have established themselves here over the past few years is remarkably high. As well as Filippa K, Tiger of Sweden, Hope, Rodebjer, Gant and J.Lindeberg, Whyred is one of the labels that has really made it in Stockholm. It has several of its own stores around the city centre, and at Stockholm Fashion Week Whyred is always one of the ones to watch. Simple and elegant, without ever being boring is a good way to describe both the label and the successful attitude of its designer Roland Hjort. www.whyred.se

Brandstationen

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WWW.herrjudit.se

Konst-ig

Gabucci It’s not only the range on offer – menswear, most of which comes from Italy – that is exquisite at Gabucci. The newly designed interior of the twenty-year-old store on Nybrogatan is also of the highest quality. The two architects Mats Broberg and Johan Ridderstråle were named ‘Designers of the Year’ last year by Elle Decoration and have proved themselves once again with this little gem. www.gabucci.se

Aplace Aplace is THE place for lovers of Scandinavian fashion design labels. Accordingly, the list of labels reads like a who’s who of the local fashion scene: Acne, Ann Sofie Back, J.Lindeberg, Minimarket, Rodebjer, Velours, Henrik Vibskov, Whyred – to name just a few. Kalle Tollmar and Kristian Rajnai, the two founders of the large multi-label store on the bustling Götgatan in Södermalm, also run an equally spacious branch on Norrlandsgatan. www.aplace.com

As you can’t officially train to become a bookseller in Sweden, Helene Boström and Charlotte Ekbom, the founders of the pretty art bookstore Konst-ig, had to learn the ropes as they went along. The fact that they have succeeded admirably is plain to see in the choices and expertise of the two bibliophiles. When it comes to art, architecture, photography and design they really know their stuff. Which is why a conversation with them at their store is always an inspiring eye-opener.

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Until recently, this gem on the vintage design scene was located in a former fire station – hence the name. Owner Christian Quaglia is not only very knowledgeable about interior design rarities and antique jewellery, he also has a penchant for men’s fashion. Proven by his secondhand store, Herr Judit, which, just like Brandstationen, stands out from the vintage crowd thanks to his expertly selected vintage discoveries.

www.konstig.se 39

Byredo

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Retail +

Stockholm Retail +

Ben Gorham is somewhat of an exotic specimen in the world of fragrances – his Indian, Scottish and French-Canadian roots, his art degree background along with his varied career path make him stand out from the classic Parisian perfumers. But perhaps it is exactly his unusual take on things, his irreverence, which has ensured that his Stockholm label Byredo has been able to establish itself so successfully on an international level. It all started out with his scented candles; nowadays Gorham also creates a series of fantastic perfumes, bodycare products and room sprays. www.byredo.com

Herr Judit Herr Judit is one of the best friends the smartly dressed Stockholm man could wish for. Because the vintage fashion store has everything a fashionconscious Swede could possibly need. At the branch in the sophisticated Östermalm district, you’ll find Italian suits in perfect condition alongside handmade British footwear. And in the indie district of Södermalm you’ll find Herr Judit’s casual wardrobe of denims, workwear, shirts, belts and bags.

When you’re in Stockholm, there’s simply no getting past Acne. The exceptional denim brand, which started out as a graphic design agency, is purely and simply THE undisputed leader when it comes to denim and avant-garde fashion, loved by male and female fashion enthusiasts alike. The beating heart of Acne can be found in the store at Norrmalmstorg, where the interior is designed to look like a photo studio. The label runs another six stores throughout the city. And if the prices of the current collection are too high for your budget, you should head to the Acne archive on Torsgatan where you can get your hands on affordable items from previous collections. www.acnestudios.com

WWW.herrjudit.se

Rodebjer ’Effortless elegance’ is how Carin Rodebjer, the founder of the eponymous label, describes its style. The designer, who made her way from rural Gotland via New York to Stockholm, now calls New York home, after spending several years in Sweden. While showing her latest collections at NY Fashion Week, she also runs her first flagship store on Jakobsbergsgatan, which has an insteresting history: the building was formerly used as meeting place for politically active women in the feminist movement around 1905, which fits in perfectly with the well-travelled Carin Rodebjer’s outlook. Nowadays, its close proximity to the Sempre Espresso Bar across the road, famous for its fabulous coffee, ensures that meetings of all kinds still take place here.

Old Touch Upplandsgatan is an Eldorado for second-hand fans. You’ll find shop after shop selling old lamps, vintage stoneware vases and plenty of the acclaimed Scandinavian design. Part of this circle of experts is Birgitta Gardner, who has been running her Old Touch store for 32 years now. Her specialities are embroideries and lace. You’ll find everything from delicate woven materials down to rustic embroidered linens in all shades of white, which Birgitta rounds off with hand-picked shoes, antique jewellery and plenty of other pretty frippery.

The trio of café, fashion boutique and interior design store is located at the end of a cul-de-sac, so it’s usually only those in the know who make it down into the tube-like interior. Here, enthusiastic foodies can find snacks and hearty lunch dishes, homemade jams and granolas served on pretty stoneware crockery, which can also be purchased. At the end of the passage the space opens up into the large fashion store where simple, classic cuts dominate the look. A few steps down into the basement space and you’ll find wonderfully fragrant bathroom treats and accessories. www.snickarbacken7.se 58 — 04/2014

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Acne

Snickarbacken 7

www.oldtouch.se www.rodebjer.com 40

Cool Cities / Stockholm — Service

Stockholm Service

Hotel Lydmar Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2 103 24 Stockholm T +46 (0)8 223160 www.lydmar.com

‘Djur’ means ‘animal’ or ‘beast’ in Swedish, so it’s not hard to guess the defining feature of the menu at Bakfickan Djuret. The owners of the beautifully furnished restaurant, the Bengtsson family, have an entirely singular philosophy when it comes to the consumption of meat: they only buy the entire animal and then use as much of it as possible. So for four or five weeks in a row there will be nothing but beef on the menu. And even in the choice of dishes, the guest, perhaps reminded somewhat of the surreal world created by the director Jean-Pierre Jeunet in the classic film ‘Delicatessen’, doesn’t have much say in the matter either. You have the option of either three courses or six – but the time you are spared agonising over menu choices can be put to good use selecting the perfect wine to accompany your meal: from one of the largest selections in Scandinavia, which

B.A.R. / EAT / Lux Dag för Dag includes one hundred types of Burgundy. And the same goes for the adjoining bar, The Burgundy, where the focus, as the name suggests, is also on red wines. But those who prefer a whisky can pop into Tweed next door, also run by the Bengtssons and furnished with opulent antique leather sofas. The authentic interiors really are the highlights of all three locations. And it turns out that the Bengtsson family is firmly established in the world of antiques. In addition to the gastro dynasty, the family also own the Victory, Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton hotels as well as the gastro pub Pubologi, which, like the family’s other establishments, are located in Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town. www.djuret.se

These three very different restaurants form a perfect ensemble of exquisite cuisine. Eleven years ago, the fine dining restaurant opened on one of the small islands near the city centre of Stockholm. Lux was the name of this first project that soon garnered a Michelin star. While initially pleasing the owner Daniel Frick, it actually turned out to be a liability as diner numbers dwindled due to the higher quality and the associated higher prices. So they decided to return to more democratic roots, turning Lux into an all-day bistro restaurant and opening two further eateries over the next few years, also with moderate prices, making their dishes affordable for a broader public. One of them is B.A.R. The seafood brasserie is located strategically close to the Grand Hôtel, the Lydmar, Berns

and the Radisson Blu Strand Hotel and is proving very popular. Between 15 and 20 different types of fish await hungry foodies here, displayed on a counter designed to look like a market stall. The large spacious room, exuding industrial charm, has space for 100 guests – with an accordingly bustling atmosphere. The house’s signature dish is the crispy fried fish and chips, based of course on the British version, but with a Swedish edge. Oysters, tiger shrimp and lobster are also included on the extensive seafood menu. The perfect complement to these two restaurants is EAT, which opened two years ago, an Asian fusion concept on Jakobsbergsgatan. WWW.restaurangbar.se www.eatrestaurant.se www.luxdagfordag.se

Lydmar HOTEL There’s something particularly charming about staying with good friends in a strange town. You get to discover a new, unknown destination, soak up new impressions and find inspiration – whilst still feeling safe and cosy. And that is exactly the highly gratifying feeling the Lydmar conjures up; an establishment in the ‘Small Luxury Hotels’ category and one of the top three favourite places to stay in Stockholm. And without a doubt it is the people who run it who are

the reason for its great reputation. First and foremost: the art collector and music lover Per Lydmar. He was responsible for the choices regarding the interior, which is dominated by a large number of modern photographs that decorate the entire building, from the lobby all the way up to the roof. Mr Lydmar is conscious of the fact that the contemporary works of art, which also show political events and the forces of nature, are certainly different from the décor of a

typical hotel. And the rest of the staff is just as enthusiastic as their boss – one senses that each and every member of the team feels responsible for their own contribution and invests a lot of heart and soul into their work. And this is an approach that is bearing fruit. The locals also like to come and mix with the hotel’s guests in the Lydmar’s bar, with its leather sofas, bookshelves and comfortable armchairs that make it feel like more of a spacious living room than a hotel

foyer. It’s the ideal place to start off, or indeed to end an evening out – the atmosphere is convivial and relaxed. Another two highlights are revealed in the summer months when the nights are light: the outdoor terrace in front of the hotel – with fantastic views of the palace and the Old Town Gamla Stan – and also the patio on the first floor. For the winter season the neighbouring Grand Hôtel has a spa, which Lydmar guests are welcome to use free of charge.

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Bakfickan Djuret

Alexander Stutterheim remembers the genesis of his eponymous rainwear brand very well: “I was on my way to an important meeting and it was raining really heavily. As I was early, I stopped by a café to grab a coffee,” he explains. “I noticed that there weren’t many people dressed for the weather at all – I spotted a couple of people wearing rain macs, but most of them were just holding flimsy umbrellas or newspapers over their heads.” Stutterheim, who before then had never paid much attention to what people were wearing to protect themselves from the elements, suddenly realised that the market was lacking rainproof items that were also modern and fashionable. Alexander S tutterheim Former copywriter Alexander Stutterheim is the CEO, founder and creative of Stutterheim Raincoats AB Svenska Regn.

58 — 04/2014

Since his initial desire to create something that is both durable and fashionable, Stutterheim has mastered a progressive cut with high arm openings and a boxy, narrow fit. Other models such as the Stockholm, the glossy Opal, the Inferno, as well as the slim-fit Arvid and the Öland cape followed, and are meanwhile accompanied by rainbow-coloured special editions, accessories and even a waterproof car cover.

Having stumbled upon a few dozen pairs of dead stock classic rubber boots from the Swedish army, Stutterheim is currently sourcing potential manufacturers to release a new run.

Please tell us a little about how the whole Stutterheim project started. Well, I suppose it all started with my grandfather’s raincoat. He was a fantastically smart and cool man and he showed me the world. After he died, we were going through his stuff and I found his raincoat hanging from a nail in the barn where he had all his fishing gear. My grandfather’s coat had nothing to do with fashion. It was black and served as protection when he was out fishing. It was wide like a tent, and long but it had this certain toughness to it and a stand-up collar. I desperately wanted to buy one when I returned to the city. I looked everywhere, from fishing shops to NK, a luxurious department store in Stockholm, but I couldn’t even find anything that came close to my grandfather’s jacket – everything was Gore-Tex and kind of techy.

Alexander Stutterheim

So you just handed in your notice and started your own project? Well, at that time I was a bit tired of the advertising business anyway, but most of all I was tired of compromising on my ideals. I wanted to do something I could believe in, and make all the decisions myself, from start to finish. So I had the idea of recreating my grandad’s coat. I became really obsessed with every detail: the buttons, the fabric, the cut. The project was more of an art project than about fashion or sales. I googled factories and found one remaining factory in Sweden, in Borås, which used to be the epicentre of the textile industry in the sixties and seventies. I asked them to produce 100 black raincoats in the fabric I had found. As they had to make seven prototypes before I was actually happy, it cost me a fortune. At the same time I began to write about the project on Facebook. People started following because they were intrigued. Perhaps it touched a nerve; many people have these dreams of doing something else with their lives: opening up a B&B or a café, but they just continue in the same line of work. So I guess what I had done fascinated them. I took out a loan and had one hundred coats produced, numbered, and signed by the seamstresses who made them. They were all handmade and each seam was individually taped. I named it Arholma after

the island where my grandad lived. He could be a very melancholic man but also very creative and intellectual at the same time. And often when that happened, it was raining. Then he would go out fishing, even in the worst weather. I considered the melancholy mind-set, because I was tired of these happy-go-lucky brands. I wanted to explore this connection between Swedish melancholy and creativity. We have so many great brands and innovations considering we are a very small country. H&M, Ikea, Volvo, Ericsson. It’s amazing, and I think it all comes from this melancholic feeling that we have, especially during the long winters. I guess being creative helps to get away from that feeling. So what happened to the first 100 coats? Did they sell? The first 100 black Arholma raincoats all came with a signed number, and I even wrote poems and hid them inside each coat in the inside pocket and signed them. These raincoats were a very personal expression. I posted about the arrival of the first one hundred coats on social media and within an hour I had a queue of people outside my door with 1500 kroner in their hands. I hadn’t done any budgeting. Nor had I done any marketing studies or anything like that. I had just been acting on my feelings. No wonder that I completely lost out financially. I lost 1000 kroner on

each coat because the cost of producing them was much higher than the price I sold them for. And the 25% VAT came on top of that! At that time I had no idea about production costs in the fashion industry. I had just based the selling price of the coats on what I thought my grandad would have paid. About 150 euros... Why do you think they sold so well? Apart from the obvious fact that they were well made using good materials, I think people had just started to become really tired of mass-produced throw-away stuff. They wanted something that they could keep all their life. In Stockholm the news soon spread that this crazy guy was selling raincoats and I had to make one hundred more. As I told you, each coat was numbered, and I still know who owns each number. The phone was ringing constantly. I called the factory and told them they needed to produce more. I ended up having to sell my apartment to finance it all; it was crazy. But obviously you must have figured out a better price? Yes, of course. The business completely exploded and I have ten or eleven employees these days. We are producing lots of new colours and many new styles. In a way it’s become something completely different to what it started off as. We still

bring our lifeblood and passion into it, but of course, now we are seen as a brand. So when did you actually start achieving success? I think one of the key moments happened when I was in our store, mopping the floor. I hadn’t sold a single raincoat for weeks. Three women from New York came in from the snow and cold outside. They tried on the coats, were blown away and wanted to place an order immediately. When I asked where they were from, they handed me their cards, which said Barneys New York on Madison Avenue. I almost fainted because it was so surreal. This was the starting signal for our international success. And meanwhile, although we’re hiring people, we’re actually making a profit. When my accountant told me this in the summer, I almost kissed her! Can you tell us how the collaboration with Jay Z came about? That was pretty surreal too. Kanye West wanted a black Stockholm coat. I had just made a rawer version of the Arholma coat, realising that some people considered 500 euros too expensive. So I worked out a simpler version, more in line with what my grandad’s coat looked like; without lining and so on. We now offer those in 15 colours. I didn’t know that Kanye West had bought one in Barneys. But

I think rain gear has attracted a lot of attention in the last couple of years, which all started with Kate Moss wearing Hunter boots at Glastonbury. Actually she also has an original black Arholma. I have a picture of her wearing it. But you’re right, that’s probably where it all started. What do you think is the reason behind this trend of wearing raincoats even when it’s sunny, which started about five years ago? I think in a way it has something to do with the material, which looks as good on people in real life as it does on photos. It must be something about the fabric I suppose: it’s clean, minimal, handcrafted, rough and a bit retro. It suggests you’d rather not live in the city, that you are an all-weather person, and it makes you feel protected. And it’s also unisex and easy to wear with other outfits. You can put it over your suit if you’re a business guy. So what else do you have planned? I’m trying my best to develop new styles and explore new segments. We are slowly broadening the collection, whilst keeping it all about the fisherman look, the heritage and protection from bad weather conditions. We’ve

also started thinking about knitwear, rubber boots, bags and the perfect trench coat.

Cool Cities / Stockholm Talks — Alexander Stutterheim, Stutterheim

before that Jay Z had bought the black Arholma model, an original one. He actually phoned me up and as I thought someone was pulling my leg I hung up at first. In the end it turned out that he wanted to do a raincoat for Barneys in collaboration with me. He was actually putting together a collection of items by Lanvin, Balenciaga, Hermès, Rick Owens and myself. Finally we have become an established fashion brand. This weekend we even had an eight-page editorial in The New York Times!

How many countries do you distribute to nowadays? Twelve. In France we just opened a new shop-in-shop at Le Bon Marché. That’s a completely new market for us. Actually I don’t think about these things too much. We have people working here with enough brains to handle all those various aspects and they tell me to stay down here and make new stuff. That’s probably for the best. Who are your main customers, men or women? We continue to do unisex. Probably 60 to 65 percent of the raincoats are bought by women, but maybe partly for their husbands or boyfriends. The Arholma and the Stockholm models are our biggest successes. Who do you think is your main competitor? I don’t know if they really are competitors, but there is a company who has made a thinner cheaper version, mass-produced in China. That’s exactly what I don’t want to do. We are producing by hand – slowly and month by month. For me, anything else would be a waste of environmental resources, as well as a waste of money. I try to make classic items that we can produce over and over again, every so often adding new colours or experimenting with different patterns and prints. I want to continue producing here in Sweden, paying wages that the people I work with can actually live on. These are the values our coats stand for. Thank you for talking to us. My pleasure.

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Cool Cities / Stockholm Talks — Alexander Stutterheim, Stutterheim

Stockholm Talks Alexander Stutterheim

Cool Cities / Stockholm Talks — Carl Malmgren, Cheap Monday

Stockholm Talks Carl Malmgren Ever since it was established in 2004, with its super skinny jeans that quickly became cult, Cheap Monday has become to Stockholm what Levi’s is to San Francisco. The brand’s Head of Denim Carl Malmgren, who started his career with a student job, talks to us about the label’s beginnings and what makes a pair of jeans iconic.

Jeans don’t necessarily need to be pricey. The raw materials aren’t that expensive, it’s more about what you do with them. Carl Malmgren

In March 2004 they started selling their designs with 800 pairs of jeans. The brand, known for its sharp and edgy designs, influenced by the punk and grunge movement, has expanded from their original focus on jeans to include shirts, flannel and sneakers. The producer of Cheap Monday jeans and operator of the Weekday store was the company Fabric Scandinavien AB, then owned by Adam Friberg, Lars Karlsson, Örjan Andersson and Linda Friberg.

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Head of Denim, Carl Malmgren, has been with the brand right from the beginning and its Creative Director Ann-Sofie Back came on board in 2009.

In 2008 the Swedish fashion retailer H&M bought 60 percent of Fabric Scandinavien AB. In 2010 H&M completed the acquisition by obtaining the remaining 40 percent.

Mr Malmgren, what did Cheap Monday mean to you before you actually joined the company? I was around 22 and studying music in Stockholm when this shop called Weekday opened up in the city centre. The owner, Örjan, had another shop outside town called Weekend before, which was only open on weekends, whereas the one in town was open on weekdays, hence the names. I started hanging out there all the time, talking to Örjan and soon I began working there myself. They had a really good mix of vintage stuff, Japanese and L.A. brands like 7 For All Mankind, Citizens of Humanity etc. and also some small local Swedish labels. It was a really good mix. I had been there for a few years when Örjan asked me to work with him on a new brand: Cheap Monday. As I was into punk rock I was always looking for black stretch denims. It was kind of hard to find those skinny fits back then, because everything was a little bit flared. When we started we had a lot of regulars looking for punk rock jeans. Our low price was another important factor – a counter-

reaction to other labels constantly booting up the price of denim. Our first production was 800 pairs, which sold out in a couple of weeks. Afterwards, just from word of mouth, we had so many people coming to the store just to buy Cheap Monday jeans that I had to take down everyone’s name and number for when the next delivery came. We rented a bathroom a few blocks away, and screen-printed T-shirts on the floor there, just selling jeans and T-shirts with the label’s logo. That was in 2004. And the rest is history. Is there anyone from the old board left in the team these days? I’m the only one; I’ve been here the longest but Ann-Sofie Back joined us in 2009. Then a mix of people joined who have been here for four or five years now. How does it feel to look back on the story from the beginning? It’s fun, because every year something new has happened, from just getting our jeans out there, to selling them at Fred Segal and Colette.

This was before Cheap Monday was sold? Yes, H&M acquired 60 percent in 2008 and the remaining 40 percent in 2010, I believe. Why? I think the owners, Adam, Linda, Lars and Örjan, simply got a good offer. Some of the guys are just entrepreneurs who start things and then sell them off again. I think the collection is getting more interesting though and production is better. The distribution is more controlled too. Is Örjan still involved at all? No, he started his own brand and has gone back to screen-printing T-shirts and building the interior of his own store: hands-on stuff that he really loves, so it was the right decision for him. Do you think he is sad about what happened to the brand? Yes, probably. It’s hard, I can imagine when things start slipping out of your hands and finally go beyond your control. More people come on board and decisions have to be made because the company is growing and you

have to react to that. But for me it has just been getting better all the time. We have a better idea of what we want to do these days. It used to be more random. Now everything is more focused. There is a stronger creative direction. And a lot of technical things are simpler now, as far as the production is concerned. What is the strategy for the next couple of seasons? We have a few stores, but we want to branch out more to display the full concept – our full range of men’s and women’s clothes, accessories, bags and shoes. We still have our main distribution in independent stores, so they each buy maybe five or six pairs of jeans but they leave out a lot, so we want to push for the whole range and present it in a fitting way. Which countries are you focusing on? Well, right now it’s the bigger cities: we have stores in Copenhagen, London and Paris. There is a long list of big cities to follow. I would really like to have a store in Stockholm now, which we

haven’t had yet, because we’ve been working so closely together with the Weekday shops so it wasn’t a priority. As a denim designer in one of Europe’s denim capitals, what do you think about the new ways of wearing denim? What is your vision for denim in the next couple of seasons? I think it’s great fun to see that a lot of fashion designers are into denim now. It’s no longer just washed indigo. Do you think denim couture is coming? Yes, definitely! When I look at the people here who are into fashion, they are all really into denim, too. Which also coincides with the heritage trend. You are bringing back a kind of nineties look, and talk about denim couture, but at the same time you have to remain young and affordable. How are you interpreting this new vision? Jeans don’t necessarily need to be pricey. The raw materials aren’t that expensive, it’s more about what you do with them.

Denim is such a recognisable, iconic product. Imagine something like a trucker jacket, which you then make a really cropped version of – and immediately it becomes interesting. How would you define a pair of iconic jeans? Definitely black and skinny! When we started we never thought the trend would last this long. It has become so much more than a trend; it’s simply a new basic. Something you wear every day. Like spaghetti, you love it and it’s really easy to vary it up. How many people work with you on the collection? I think there are around 35 of us in the office, but we also have the online shop and the retail department. There are four designers working on the collection, and then there’s the creative director and assistant. It’s a small team. What role does Stockholm play as your base? We travel maybe once a season. Recently we went to L.A. and sometimes we go to London, and

are always looking for secondhand stuff like new washes. I really like the Japanese indigo style. But I think Stockholm is really important too. So much is happening here and sometimes I feel like it would probably be better to stay here and take four days off to browse around all the shops, rather than going further afield. When it’s your own turf you don’t look at the new shops. Maybe next season I will just stay put and do the research here. Do you find it hard to stay in touch with the target group? Well it’s not really difficult, but you need to keep talking to people. And I am definitely not there anymore, hanging out at the cool clubs and going out all the time. I like talking to the shop owners and hearing about what the customers really want. At the same time I want to stay innovative and do something interesting with denim. Thanks for talking to us! It’s been a pleasure.

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Cheap Monday The Swedish clothing label started off in 2000 at the second-hand clothing store Weekday in Stockholm, which was founded by Örjan Andersson and Adam Friberg.

Cool Cities / Stockholm Talks — ANN RINGSTRAND, Hope

Stockholm Talks Ann Ringstrand

“Clothes help us to connect; they give us confidence, spread creativity AND inspire.” Hope In 2001, Swedish designers Ann Ringstrand and Stefan Söderberg created their fashion label Hope. In autumn 2002 the first women’s collection was launched.

Ann Ringstrand After growing up in a textile and fashion-savvy family, Ann Ringstrand studied Fashion Design at the Swedish School of Textiles. After her graduation in 1990 she worked for H&M and Peak Performance as fashion designer and design manager.

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In 2001 she founded her own brand Hope together with Stefan Söderberg. She is the creative director and CEO and also designs the women’s line. Until 2013 she also handled the marketing.

Ann is married to Swedish photographer Jörgen Ringstrand and has two children. In her free time she relaxes and recharges her batteries with yoga.

Could you tell us how it all started with your label back in 2001? Well, it resulted from a desire to develop a certain type of product that we couldn’t find in Sweden. Clothing for women, with a focus on everyday wear but with a high standard of design, with influences from masculine design but with feminine shapes: casual clothes with a conceptual touch. It was a reaction to the fashion that was extremely popular at the time: very romantic and decorative in pale colours, by predominantly Danish designers. So we put together a small collection for some buyers in Stockholm, Antwerp and Amsterdam. Not for sale, just a preview. As the buyers were very positive, we said “Fine we’ll come back next season.” But they kept calling back, asking if they could buy the sample collection or at least show it. So we just put the small part of the collection into production here in Sweden, in my hometown which is actually the epicentre of the textile industry, and that’s how it all started.

In 2005 a collection for men was added to the concept. In 2006 the first brand shop opened in Stockholm, followed by eight more within and outside of Scandinavia. In addition to the Hope shops, over 220 exclusive retailers in 22 markets meanwhile sell the brand’s collection. Ann Ringstrand

You said you started designing at the age of nine. Does your family have a background in the textile industry? Yes, and I think that’s one of the reasons why I was almost 35 before I started Hope, because of my family: I always blame them! My grandfathers on both sides were sales reps so they moved to the textile centre of Sweden, selling clothes – one sold underwear and the other one outerwear. But business was tough, and my father and grandfather went bankrupt in the seventies. So they warned me against it. But I kept coming back. I grew up having a sewing machine always around me because my grandmother was a skilled seamstress. So it was part of my upbringing. I remember making my first pair of trousers. They were green. I remember going to school wearing them, with this feeling of anticipation: who am I going to connect with in these trousers? It was all about communication and being seen or not being seen. Clothes help us to connect; they give us confidence, spread creativity, inspire. That’s my motivation. Where did you work before starting Hope?

I started out working for H&M from 1990 to 1997 as design manager for the youth department, which is now called Divided. Then I worked for the outdoor company Peak Performance. At H&M I learnt a lot about trends and selling and travelling all over the world, just to spot trends. It was a lot of fun. But Peak Performance was a much higher quality brand with more marketing; the branding was so much more exclusive. I spent five years there as design manager with a team of activewear designers, casualwear, accessories, and I got to do budgets for the first time, and business plans. I didn’t want to do that at first, but being forced to take on the management aspect was a good experience for me. My parents kept saying how good it was to be employed, to be financially secure, but I kept coming back to my entrepreneurial side, wanting to do something on my own. I wasn’t easy to deal with in those days because I had so many ideas: I would go to the budget manager and the marketing manager, trying to tell them how to do their jobs. I was in every department thinking I could do better when I finally realised I had to do something

for myself. And it became clear that I would always regret it later in life if I hadn’t even tried. At that time I got to know Stefan, the co-founder of Hope, who was also at H&M. We kept talking about products so we decided to give it a shot. Where did the name of your label actually come from? At first you think it’s all about the name, but you soon realise, really, it’s not: it’s about what you put into it. Around 1998, I was browsing through a magazine, and I saw this oil painting which had the word HOPE on it and the word just stuck out: it has a good meaning, it’s graphic, it’s short. And we have never tired of it. A couple of years ago, when the business was going well, I wanted to give something back to society with the surplus profit. So we started checking out different charity organisations and I kept coming back to the idea that I would like to stay close to our base, our stores, and our office. And I have always been fascinated by the way clothes help when you have nothing. The idea of a really durable coat that will help you survive if you have to sleep on the streets in wintertime – not just coats you buy and wear

once to Fashion Week or see in a magazine. We finally got in touch with an organisation in Stockholm called Stadsmission, a nonprofit organisation for homeless families and people in the region and we have been cooperating with them since 2010. We want to do the same thing now in the Netherlands and in Denmark because that’s where we have opened shops. I now see the common thread in how we value things and know how to position our brand accordingly, to be associated with good values as well as good design. Why do you think that people in the rest of Europe have such a great admiration for Scandinavian design? What makes Swedish design so special? I think it’s a combination of aspects: from a historical perspective, one reason lies in our lack of resources. We come from a part of the globe where we don’t really have the heat or sun to grow things, so all our materials are raw; not fancy or colourful and quite sparse. If you go back to the 15th century for example and take our king and the king of France and compare their lifestyles and clothing you can see clearly why we have couture

coming from Paris, and why very functional basic fashion comes from Sweden. We don’t have stones or metals, so we don’t do embellishments or décor. Instead we transform the meaning of luxury into something more conceptual. It’s become a popular style all over the world, interiorwise, food-wise, music-wise. The social aspect came in around the fifties, when the socialist party really tried to create a democratic society, which has affected us in both a positive and negative way. The positive side is that we have a lot of people who are interested in fashion: we all look quite similar and we are very up to date but what we are missing a little is a sense of individuality when it comes to style. You hardly see anyone standing out with bright colours, or a hat, or wearing spotted socks. So sometimes when we’re in Amsterdam or New York we think “Wow!” The third aspect of why we are this way is because we are a small country, comparable to Belgium or Japan, so we need to be very open-minded to survive. We need to be curious so we travel a lot, we read a lot, and we are not so nationalistic. I mean we never had an empire, have always been more of an underdog. So we are

very trend conscious, merely in order to survive. Do you think there is a distinction between Danish and Swedish style? I think it’s a bit like a language with different dialects. You can’t tell the difference as an outsider. The Danes never went through the socialist phase, so perhaps they are a little more exotic or free. On the other hand they are less conceptual. When it comes to business, the Danish are more focused, which, as a generalisation, in the fashion business makes them less innovative. There are only three or four brands in Sweden making above the equivalent of 500 million Danish kroner, whereas in Denmark you have at least ten brands. In general, I suppose, we value our creativity and integrity more. But of course there are always exceptions to the rule, like Henrik Vibskov. Thanks so much for the interesting chat. It was my pleasure.

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Ann Ringstrand, the founder and designer of Hope, describes her label as “womenswear with an attitude; a very monochrome colour scheme, very Swedish with a functional design, but avant-garde.” We met the multi-talented Ann at her new headquarters in Stockholm where we talked about her fashion background, motivations and visions.

“We put a smile on people’s feet!” Eno Polo, European President for São Paulo Alpargatas S.A., and responsible for the business of Havaianas in Europe, the Middle East and North Africa, talks to

us about his passion and his visions for the affordable, universal rubber sandal that has become a fashion must-have for people all over the world.

How does it feel to be working for one of the most universal brands? Universal? Yes, and democratic in a way. We’re becoming very global. Our product appeals to everyone; it’s something that makes you feel happy, which is a universal emotion. You can see somebody in the middle of Africa wearing the same flip-flops as some of the world’s most famous models in Los Angeles. That’s so cool.

is technology involved. You have to think of different consumer circumstances. It’s not as complicated as building cars, of course but in our world there is definitely more to it than the eye can see.

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How do you manage to keep your fashionable image when after all, you’re selling to some of the poorest people on the one hand, and to the rich and famous on the other? How do you manage to balance this? Or does it just happen? To be honest, I think it just happens. First of all because of the type of product we sell. It’s just a simple product that is a necessity for a lot of people. It’s a product that brings an emotion to your feet: liberty, equality, freedom and happiness. When you slip on a pair of flip-flops, in the case of Havaianas, they are comfortable and make you feel free and easy. It just makes people feel good. For the poor people in Africa or Brazil on the other hand it’s a survival thing, something practical to wear all day long, every day. It’s something that meets their needs and that they can afford. When these two aspects come together you’ve got everybody wearing them. It’s not like a Hermès bag that is for a very specific clientele only. It also exudes the Brazilian spirit; the colours make you dream about the Brazilian way of life that touches people more than say, something made in China. Certain products give you a certain feel, like leather goods from Italy, or cars made in Germany. For flipflops it has to be Brazil.

Brands & Brains — Eno Polo / Havaianas Europe, Madrid

Havaianas

Every year, the firm makes around 100 new models in different colour combinations, with a view to ensuring that flip-flops remain “a fashion accessory that can go with any outfit, from the beach to a party, from college to a bar”.

“Flip-Flops are part of everybody’s Life.” Eno Polo

How do you deal with the criticism that there are not many varieties. That Havaianas are simply a sole and two straps? Of course you’re not the designer but… People usually first discover our brand at the beach. But once they get to know it, they will buy different Havaianas for different occasions. We have elegant prints to go with a beach dress or models with Swarovski crystals, which you can wear to an evening gala. So it’s all about colours, prints and stones? Yes, stones, embellishment and shapes as well. We have some that are narrower. We call them our slim design; they’re a little sexier. Even in the world of a flip-flop there

You describe all these fashion brands as opposed to sports brands. Was it your intention to develop a fashion brand or was it the consumer who turned it to a fashion item? I would actually say we are a fashion brand. I think this is an advantage that Havaianas flip-flops have against other branded flip-flops. We are able to sell in fashion stores so wherever you go, whether it’s Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette or Harrods, we are represented and welcome there. So yes, we are in the fashion world. On the other hand we sell a lot in surf shops. In sports shops you’ll find us alongside Nike and Adidas. There are not many brands that are as sectorneutral as we are. We try not to get pigeonholed. Although we may be on the catwalks or at the Valentino show, we’re not going to revolve all our marketing around fashion because we’d lose the surfers and sports crowd. We stay very democratic. We’re for everybody. Our slogan in Brazil is: ‘Havaianas, todo mundo usa.’ Everybody wears Havaianas! You’re selling in 106 countries – I heard there were four billion pairs of shoes produced last year … Really? Oh, I lost count! It’s been 52 years now and we’ve been selling nearly 200 million pairs for the past five or six years. That’s a lot of pairs: ten every second. That’s incredible! Yes, it’s mind blowing, and most of those have been sold in Brazil. So in Brazil alone we sell over 200 million, and there are 190 million people, which makes more than one pair per inhabitant. They are part of everybody’s life there. So where do you see opportunities for growth? Do you really want to grow after all? I’m not in charge of the whole of Brazil, but what surprises me is that sales just keep on growing there. Five years ago we opened our Madrid office, starting off with five countries in Europe; now we’re planning on entering the German market. And then Asia as well, which is probably a little more complicated – but if you think of the population there, that’s a big opportunity. Another one of my plans is Africa. If we can replicate in Africa what we’ve been doing in Brazil, that opportunity is huge. Not only for us, but also

Brand History The first Havaianas were launched in Brazil in 1962, with a design that was inspired by Japan's Nori sandals. Nori sandals were made with rice straw, which is why to this day, Havaianas feature a rice grain design on their soles. The flip-flops were designed solely as a solution to walking barefoot and for 32 years were only available in one style with five colour options. As they were cheap, they quickly grew popular amongst lowincome Brazilians. The leap from cheap footwear option to fashion essential came in the late 1990s, when the shoe company São Paulo Alpargatas S.A. sought to counter a decline in domestic demand with an aggressive international marketing strategy. In 2012 Havaianas had a market share of around 80% in rubber sandals in Brazil. These days they are sold in more than 80 countries, with exclusive stores in cities including London, Paris, New York, Barcelona and Rome. The prices are as varied as the models. The cheapest Havaianas go for less than US$10 a pair in Brazil, while luxury models – like the 1636 pairs set with gold and diamonds that were made in 2003 – can fetch up to US$30,000. 58 — 04/2014

Brands & Brains — Eno Polo / Havaianas Europe, Madrid

Interview Ilona Marx photos Rainer Rudolf

Eno Polo Born in 1976 and raised in Kenya by Italian and French parents, Eno Polo attended high school in Kenya, and university in Texas, graduating with a degree in Physics. After university, he played professional tennis on the ATP circuit for four years, and was part of Kenya’s Davis Cup team. In 1994 Eno Polo graduated with a Master’s degree in international Economics and Management from Bocconi University, Milan. In 1995 he started a 14-year career with Nike, first in Nike Italy as the Category Marketing Manager then he moved to Nike’s WHQ in Beaverton, Oregon as Footwear Product Manager. Other positions include Marketing Director for the Alpine region (Vienna), Administratore Delegato of the football Club Juventus Merchandising S.r.l. in Turin, European Marketing Director for Nike Lifestyle in Hilversum, and Footwear Business Director for Iberia in Barcelona.

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Since 2008 Eno Polo has been European president for Alpargatas São Paulo S.A., responsible for the business of Havaianas in Europe, the Middle East and North Africa.

You mentioned that the sustainability ethic also plays an important role. How do you manage to reconcile that with a rubber product? Well, first of all we produce everything in our own factory in Brazil and not in Asia, like other companies. As you can imagine it’s quite a big factory because we produce 700,000 pairs a day there. We have schools and a whole community there to fulfil our social responsibility. Back in Brazil we have two partnerships. One is called IPE, an association to protect the Amazonia rainforest. We have developed some products, the sales of which go to IPE. The other one is with Conservation International to protect the waters off the coast of Brazil. We produce products for them as well. Within the group of Alpergatas, because Alpergatas produces more than one brand, not just Havaianas, we have socially responsible projects for sports and education. We also have other sports brands in Brazil and Argentina. Is the rubber a natural by-product that you get from trees? No, it’s synthetic rubber. There aren’t enough trees to produce that much rubber, unfortunately. Using natural rubber would be neither socially nor environmentally responsible. It’s synthetic rubber but the advantage of synthetic rubber is that it returns to its original shape. Therefore you can always tell a fake Havaiana because the plastic is compressed after a while with the weight of your foot. Synthetic rubber conducts heat well, which means it doesn’t burn your feet when you leave it out in the sun, which is what happens to plastic. For Brazilians that’s very important as they are very superstitious. If you go to a beach in Brazil and you turn your flip-flops upside down, it means bad luck. You can put Havaianas on straight away, no matter how hot it is. And they don’t slip when they get wet. We have a special secret formula, another reason why we don’t export our production to other areas. How do you protect yourselves from imitations? Well, we didn’t invent the flip-flop. When you go to the old Egyptian museums you can see, I think, even Tutankhamun wearing flip-flops. Obviously we have a trademarked brand, but if anybody wants to make another flip-flop they can. We have trademarked elements like the patterns on the flipflop. When people try to copy that we’ll send them a polite letter requesting them to stop. Of course, I don’t think we’ll

ever get rid of counterfeits completely, but we do everything we can to protect our brand. That’s what we live off after all, an iconic brand with an iconic product. If we lost that, we’d lose everything. You mentioned the brand’s fiftieth anniversary two years ago? Has there been something like a turning point for Havaianas as a brand? There were two turning points: in the late eighties, Brazil had a huge inflation problem, during which the inflation rate was at around 100 percent every month. Once people were paid on Friday morning, they would spent it straight away, because by Monday their money would just be worth half of what they’d been paid. Trying to stop the inflation, the government created a basket of necessities, fixing the price of milk, bananas, bread and – Havaianas, which were an important commodity for the population. Of course inflation continued to rise and the company nearly went bankrupt. One of the lessons learnt was, that Havaianas, primarily being a low-income product, needed to embrace a wider audience. Consequently a marketing campaign was launched, filming famous people wearing Havaianas at home. Models, football players and actors were interviewed and asked “Why are you wearing Havaianas?” And they would answer, “I always wear Havaianas.” This was geared toward the middle class and Brazilians, being very aspirational, said, “If famous people are wearing them, then we want to wear them too.” After that, everyone started wearing Havaianas and the brand became huge. I have to say, the Brazilian mentality is really unique: on Havaianas’ fiftieth anniversary, when I had just joined the company, we went to Brazil telling the people there we needed to celebrate this milestone anniversary. And the Brazilians looked at us like “Why would you want to tell us that we’re old?” One of your colleagues once said, “We don’t sell sandals. We sell dreams.” Yes, but at the end of the day we are selling you a flip-flop to keep your feet cool. Havaianas are all about the Brazilian spirit. I think when you buy a pair of Havaianas and put them on your feet, unconsciously or not it is like a dream, a feeling of liberty. Maybe you buy them just at the beginning of spring time and you’re planning to go on holiday – counting down the weeks until summer –you’re suddenly remembering your last holiday when you met your girlfriend. Havaianas bring out all these associations, and at the end of the day that’s what people find in a flip-flop. After people’s feet have been stuck in boots and socks all winter, we put a smile on them! What is the most interesting part of your job? Well, the list of things to do with this brand seems endless, that’s what keeps it fascinating. That’s a good answer! And what did you do before working at Havaianas? I worked for Nike for 14 years in many different positions. I started in marketing, then moved to the the world headquarters in Oregon as a Footwear Product Manager; I was the marketing director for Austria and Switzerland in Vienna and after that I worked for Juventus Football Club on Nike’s behalf. I was product director again in Amsterdam and travelled all over Europe and the States. Is there any particular aim you have for the brand in the next couple of years? A couple: expanding into new markets for example. In my experience, the German market, with its successful industry, is not one you just enter like any other market. And we would like to branch out into apparel; swimwear, beachwear. I’d like to see how that develops over the next three or four years.

anvil.eu NEU! 987 FASHION BASIC LONG SLEEVE HOODED TEE

Brands & Brains — Eno Polo / Havaianas Europe, Madrid

for the people there because the Havaianas are so resilient and affordable. In a hot country, two pairs of Havaianas can see you through the whole year. You know, in Africa a lot of diseases come through the feet. I’m not going to start pretending that we’re out to save the world, but at the end of the day it’s a big opportunity.

FASHIONALITY WHAT’S YOUR

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“We have never buckled!” Alberto is very much an expert when it comes to authentic trouser craftsmanship. Already in the fourth generation, the Walendy family from Mönchengladbach in the northwest of Germany is dedicated to

creating the perfect fit and the highest quality in terms of material and production. Their “Pants we love” claim is certainly very apt, as it’s clear that passion plays an important role here.

Today, the internationally operating company is managed by Georg Welendy, together with co-owner and manager Marco Lanowy and commercial director Jürgen Schmiedel. Alberto meanwhile sells its products in 56 countries, whilst still remaining loyal to its core expertise: trousers. And now for the first time ladies’ trousers by the label are coming to stationary retail stores this coming season. Marco Lanowy tells us why healthy growth is an important prerequisite for this and how to manage a modern company with plenty of passion.

modern specialists. It’s currently very fashionable to put the spotlight on old traditions. But we don’t have to do that, as it’s a matter of course for us. Basically, we only launch products onto the market for which there is also really a demand. And we consider ourselves fortunate that we are attracting new customers primarily by word of mouth and not through aggressive advertising campaigns. So we automatically also have some of the most loyal fans around.

Mr Lanowy, can you remember your own first fashion purchase? Of course! It was in my “new wave” phase when I was a teenager. I scoured the whole of Düsseldorf for some tight black drainpipes and finally found a pair in a small store in the Old Town. Fortunately I was always allowed to wear what I wanted anyway. My parents were really relaxed when it came to that and let me experiment in finding my own individual look. And it’s a well-known fact that fashion completes style.

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Where do you like to go shopping? Basically, despite the many temptations of internet shopping I still prefer walking around interesting cities and browsing the different stores and their concepts and collections. I love Antwerp for example. The city is impelling but still cosy with its many different facets. People there buy an expensive bag just to complete their style, not to flaunt the brand’s latest ‘it’ bag. I also find Berlin exciting. There’s a lot happening there and I love the permanent flux. That awakens the hunting instinct in me.

Brands & Brains — Marco Lanowy / Alberto, Mönchengladbach

A l be r t o

Do you always have an eye on your competitors? Peripherally. The good thing about it is: in 90 years Alberto has never buckled, it’s always remained true to its chosen path. Of the many fashion brands we were never “the hippest one” and that’s a blessing, because it allowed us to grow in a natural, healthy way and find our niche as

In spring 2015, trousers by Alberto Woman, which were previously only available online, will be hitting the shelves of bricks-and-mortar retailers for the first time. But initially only in Austria and Spain; why? We see these countries as a trial run and the demand is definitely there. In Austria there are still a lot of specialist retailers who still stand in their shops themselves. So they can always give us prompt feedback and find out what is working and what isn’t. Spain is interesting for us because it’s one of the most modern markets in the ladies’ sector. The store offer is very varied and, despite the big wellknown vertically integrated retailers, there are still a lot of small boutiques. In my opinion, Spain is one of the most interesting growth markets. Other German labels, also including noteworthy familyrun companies, are meanwhile having to tighten their belts... That’s right – but we shouldn’t forget that there is a natural market shakeout. A lot of things can play a role here: sometimes the investors want to see regular capital returns, sometimes the focus was on a certain target group, which perhaps ceased to exist or was dwindling. Here at Alberto we’re lucky in that we have always avoided bringing investors into our company, who, at the end of the day, we would have had to report to on a weekly basis. Investor-driven capital doesn’t exist for us; we have always grown naturally and we still are.

Alberto 1922: Four years after the end of the war, Dr Albert Dormanns establishes Dormanns Hosenfabrik (Dormanns’ Trouser Factory) in the vacant premises of his deceased grandfather’s cloth company. 1968: Following the death of Dr Albert Dormanns his daughter Marie-Lore Walendy, née Dormanns, inherits the business; her husband Rolf Walendy takes on the management. Several years later their son Georg joins the company and establishes the brand’s new name Alberto on the market. 1999: The premises of the existing factory building in Mönchengladbach are enlarged to 3000 m². Four years later, in spring 2003 the company is renamed and is known from then on as ALBERTO GmbH & Co. KG. 2004: After the successful launch of the online shop one year previously, the success story of ALBERTO’s golf collection begins. One year later the company invests again and a logistics centre, covering an area of almost 10,000 m², is built. 2005: In addition to the two new managing directors Marco Lanowy (Retail, Sales & Marketing) and Jürgen Schmiedel (Finance & Personnel), Anna and Philipp Walendy, in the fourth generation, join the family business. Today: ALBERTO is meanwhile sold in 56 countries, as is the successful jeans collection ADenim. For this coming spring/summer 2015 season the ladies’ line will also be offered in bricks-and-mortar stores, initially in Austria and Spain.

Marco Lanowy

And to ensure that stays the case, do you, as the managing director, have to keep a firm hold on the reins? Oh, the big question about the key to success! Of course you quickly run the risk of wanting to please everyone. But above all, I want to have satisfied, healthy employees who enjoy their jobs. But I’m not going to start with the whole ‘We are a family’ spiel, as in most cases that’s usually motivated by self-interest anyway. It’s logical that there are departments at Alberto in which we are very hierarchically structured. On the other hand, we also manage to create space for new ideas and it’s really important to me that we treat each other with respect. I keep a very close eye on that! If you can find the right balance, you set an incredible amount of creativity free, and this performance is directly reflected in the company. As the co-owner and manager I have the responsibility for this. I am honestly very proud that none of our employees are suffering from burnout and that we have an incredibly low fluctuation. At your regular collection updates many of the employees at different levels come together and everyone has their say. Yes, we are very diverse and creative! I prefer a very modern style of management, in which there are naturally defined captains. But because we regularly sit down together, we manage to get the balance right between the heart and the brain. No one has to boost their profile, as we all have an overriding objective – we want to ‘build’ good trousers – and everyone has their own area of responsibility. Our people shouldn’t be scared of presenting their ideas; they should enjoy it and be proud to.

That’s always easy to say when you’re the boss... In that context, I recently heard something very nice from one of my employees, with whom I was briefly sitting down with after a really stressful meeting. He said to me: “Do you know what, Mr Lanowy? Sometimes it’s great just to sit in comfortable silence with you!” I think that answers your doubts – and personally I was delighted to hear it! Thank you very much for talking to us!

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Brands & Brains — Marco Lanowy / Alberto, Mönchengladbach

Interview Gerlind Hector

Brands & Brains — New BalanCE, Boston

Text Gerlind Hector

DATES 2015 New B a l a n ce

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“Awakened from a Sleeping Beauty slumber”

There was a time when New Balance used to be incredibly hip in Germany. When the trend barometer dropped, however, things didn’t look too good for the label for a while. But now the traditional

company from Boston is back on the up again. Jürgen Konrad, who has been New Balance’s Country Manager for Germany for three years now, has succeeded in generating turnover without having to reinvent the brand.

Around twenty years ago, at the beginning of the 90s, suddenly all the cool fashion journalists were running around wearing sneakers by New Balance. It all started at Paris Fashion Week, the capital of haute couture of all places. Although back then we were seeing Jean-Paul Gaultier’s men’s skirts or complicated deconstructivism by Martin Margiela on the catwalks, at the end of the day people were mainly buying what the hip girls in the front row were wearing: New Balance models in all colours and designs, especially the model M576, preferably in suede. So that’s how the US label was also catapulted to sudden popularity in Germany, without first establishing itself as the reputable running shoe brand that it actually is. A big mistake, as they are aware of today, because the customers were given the superficial impression that New Balance was a pure lifestyle label that was deluging the market all of a sudden – and that it would be “out” again a short while after. And that’s unfortunately how things happened, although those in the know continued to rave about the fit and performance of shoes by the Boston brand. The sudden success meant that New Balance – albeit unintentionally – put the cart before the horse, which is something that Jürgen Konrad is all too aware of. As Country Manager he has been responsible for the German market since 2011: “It’s only logical that you’re going to have an identity problem as soon as the trend dies down again.” Konrad, who worked for competitor Asics for more than 25 years prior to taking on this role, is himself an enthusiastic runner and delighted that under his management things are picking up again for New Balance in Germany. From 2011 to 2013 the company doubled its revenue, and it’s already foreseeable that by the end of 2014 the figures will be up by

another 60% compared to the previous year. The traditional brand, which, unlike its competitors who produce exclusively in Asia, attaches great importance to its six production facilities in the USA and one in Flimby in the UK, has completely repositioned itself. But reinventing itself wasn’t necessary; it has always been consistent to the core. “After awakening from our Sleeping Beauty slumber, we have not only significantly transformed the product and marketing team, but also the distribution,” emphasises Jürgen Konrad. “We want to keep them tight and by no means inundate the market.” The brand purposely doesn’t want to be readily available everywhere. And to ensure this, the sports shoe specialists are prepared to accept that their sales figures are rising slower than they could be. They are mainly setting their sights on the many specialist stores that the German market has to offer. New Balance also offers special workshops for its retailers and sends so-called brand ambassadors to offer specialist support to the staff in the stores. The company, which was founded in 1906 and has been managed since 1972 by Jim Davis, clearly sees itself as a performance brand rather

27.02. – 01.03. 12.09. – 14.09.

than a lifestyle one – even though they are of course happy that, alongside professional runners, a fashion-savvy target group is also taking an interest in their sneakers, which are available in different widths. In addition to the popular heritage sneakers, it is the ‘Fresh Foam 980 RX’ model that is currently causing a stir. “The ultra-light shoe is a hybrid of a pure-bred running shoe and lifestyle product,” says Jürgen Konrad. “The secret is a brand new midsole technology that was developed using 3D printing, which provides the optimum shape, cushioning and material for the feet.” This makes the sneakers ideal for passionate runners for whom the focus is on comfort – but of course also pretty cool for active fashion editors who are constantly dashing from one meeting to the next and want to show off their fashion prowess while doing so.

Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 · D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 0 · Fax + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de · info@messe-offenbach.de

Retail & Architecture — Mki Miyuki-Zoku, Leeds

Text Gerlind Hector Photos Stevie Roy

M KI M i y u k i - Z o k u / Lee d s

Lucky in Leeds

MKI Miyuki-Zoku Unit C4, Corn Exchange, Call Lane, Leeds, LS1 7BR T +44 113 246 89 17 www.mkistore.co.UK

“Fashion has always been my passion, interiors are my profession. The two together are my vocation,” is Vik Tailor’s response when asked about the story behind his MKI Store, which opened in May 2010. But MKI, which is short for Miyuki-Zoku, needs somewhat more of an explanation: in the mid-60s an unconventional style developed around Tokyo’s Miyuki Street. The look was based on the classic US Ivy League trend, which was originally worn by the students of the eight biggest US elite universities. Clean, preppy, slightly snobby but always with a very unique twist – right in the middle of Leeds, Vik Tailor

presents his perfect personal interpretation of this Japaneseinfluenced US look. He found the prime location for his store right in the city centre on Call Lane, in a classicistic building with large arched windows. The stylised anchor featured in the company’s logo is already a clue to the nautical influences that are continued in the shop premises’ dominating colour scheme of white, blue and a touch of red. As well as his own label MKI, Vik also stocks shirts by Saint James, sophisticated wallets by CDG and lifestyle magazines like Hypebeast and Highsnobiety, all presented on an area of around 180 m².

Vik’s time in London, the heart of the British fashion scene, has definitely defined him. He studied interior design there, with a focus on architecture and lighting design. He went on to earn a living in Nottingham, working for menswear icon Paul Smith, and then as a design consultant for a big furniture company. His ascent up the career ladder could have continued very comfortably in the same direction. The only problem was that Vik Tailor really wanted to do his own thing and put his energy into fulfilling his many ideas and his very personal taste. So it made sense for him to head back home to West Yorkshire.

After all, the market here isn’t saturated yet and “Leeds also has a lot to offer from a cultural perspective,” as Vik is only too happy to emphasise. Thanks to its two universities there are lots of young people living in the city who are interested in fashion that goes beyond the mainstream, but who don’t necessarily want to make the long trip to the capital. It’s very important to Vik Tailor that the interior design of the MKI Store is simple and clean, just like the fashion and accessories on offer. The look is white walls and floorboards with a cool mix of glass, steel and Plexiglas, which is used to show off the

Brands Comme des Garçons, Il Bussetto, JPN. Clothing, MKI, Novesta Shoes, Rains, Saint James, Wood Wood

collection in its best light in the custom-built display cabinets. “I know a lot of excellent craftsmen and designers, which definitely came in handy,” remembers Vik, who summarises his favoured style in three words: “Contemporary, understated, monochrome!” Vik Tailor is on an everlasting quest for interesting brands, new cultural influences and interior inspirations. And he’s pretty

much always on the go too: after closing his shop in the evening he takes care of the online store and his social media activities. “That’s our window into the world,” says Vik, “and also the reason we have made a name for ourselves far beyond the borders of Leeds and the UK.” With the result that his own collection is meanwhile available in stores from Berlin to Bordeaux and the MKI Store in Leeds is gra-

dually bursting at the seams. So Vik Tailor is currently looking for larger premises for his flagship store, where he can prove his abilities as a fashion and furn iture expert once again. One thing’s for sure: Leeds will con tinue to be his location of choice. So far the city has brought him nothing but luck.

Find more Shops ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

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After five years in London, Vik Tailor, who is from Leeds, had had enough, so he decided to head back home to West Yorkshire. And he was positively brimming over with a whole host of ideas related to fashion, furniture and fun. At the MKI Store he brings together the essence of his favourite style: the preppy college look, Japanese accuracy and a touch of British eccentricity.

Retail & Architecture — Hans-Berlin, Berlin

TExt Gerlind Hector Photos Jennifer Fey Photography

H a n s - B E RLIN , B e r l i n

HANS on!

Hans Weber

HANS-Berlin MeinekestraSSe 25 10719 Berlin T +49 30 889 218 33 www.hans-berlin.com

Brands

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Clean, pure and to the point: Hans Weber, the fashion expert with particular denim expertise, has opened his first own store right in the middle of Berlin. The expert isn’t a fan of ostentation or quirky décor though. Instead he chooses to focus on personal consultation and individual styling tips. And the boss himself is always on hand.

Hans Weber knows what he’s talking about! As a successful store manager and buyer he has gained so much experience that he could spend several hours telling anecdotes from over 20 years of life in the fashion industry. He was managing director and head buyer for Berlin denim store ‘City Jeans’ for a total of 19 years. After that Hans worked at F95, the store belonging to Premium CEO Anita Tillmann, which he turned into a real hub for the fashion scene. Last September he finally got a

chance to present his very own shop concept to the public – and remained the epitome of calm. HANS-Berlin is regarded as the quintessence of Hans Weber’s immense wealth of knowledge when it comes to product selection, presentation of goods and pure fashion expertise. But isn’t even an old hand like Hans Weber just a little bit nervous when it comes to his first “baby”? “Oh come on, I’ve been managing stores for half an eternity, without any constraints on budgets or the direction of style,” laughs Hans Weber. “That’s why all of my

projects to date have felt like my own stores.” And indeed, he has casually circumnavigated many a retail crisis, a clear sign that the man is not only au fait with trends, but also sales figures. Consummately cool, just like Hans himself, is the spacious store, which covers an area of 120 m² and is located on Meinekestrasse, a side street off Berlin’s most prominent shopping boulevard, Ku’damm. Elegant, clean and raw were the main specifications for the shopfitting, and upon entering it soon becomes crystal clear that Hans

isn’t a bells and whistles kind of guy. White walls, glaring neon lights plus a few additional spotlights and a sleek presentation of the goods. The impressive denim offer is showcased on shelving that is over two metres high – thankfully with a matching ladder close to hand. Garments like sweaters, blouses and jackets are neatly arranged on coat hangers, which are then presented on rails, staggered within the space. And these are also made of steel, a material that very much exudes robustness and raw functionality. Absolutely pure and to the point,

the interior and atmosphere at HANS clearly emphasise the essence of a fashion store. “I don’t want to establish myself on the basis of décor, events and extravagance,” emphasises Hans Weber. “I just want to make my mark with simple basics.” And for Hans Weber it’s all about concentrating on the essentials. Asking the customer what they really want, and what it is that makes them come back time and time again. “Of course the personal relationship with the customer is also important,” Hans says. “Solid customer con-

sultation and a stylish composition of individual looks. But also a manager who can personally convey new styles and trends in conversation with the customers.” That’s it? Basically, yes. The only caveat: of course not everyone has the magic Hans Weber touch or his highly respected fashion expertise. In many years of experience in the retail trade he has also made a name for himself as an official style consultant on German TV channel Sat1, where he deals with everyday fashion dilemmas. Is it okay to wear flip-

flops to the office at the height of summer? How much jewellery is too much for a man’s outfit? Hans knows the answers and always has the perfect, tailor-made solution at the ready. And it’s obvious he really enjoys what he does. Hans is HANS and vice-versa, as I am “my store’s unique selling point,” he says. “That’s also why I intentionally called my store ‘Hans’: I stand for my brand portfolio and my expertise.”

Find more Shops ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

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Citizens of Humanity, Elisabetta Franchi, Enso Art, G-Lab, Imperial, J Brand, Les Éclaires, Koral Los Angeles, Made in Paris, Miss Goodlife, Mother, Mud Australia, Please, Preach, Sly 010, Stutterheim

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Teaser RUbrik — Berlin Thema Tradeshows — Jörg Wichmann / Panorama

“WE’RE STANDING BY BERLIN!”

Jörg Wichmann is the founder and CEO of the fashion tradeshow Panorama Berlin, which has turned into one of the real crowd pullers of Berlin Fashion Week over the past four seasons. Future events will have the capacity to hold more than 500 exhibitors, including Marc Cain, Wellensteyn, Strenesse and Baldessarini, on an area of more than 33,000 m². Now Wichmann wants to boost Berlin’s mass appeal to a national and international specialist audience. In an interview he gave us his take on brands, markets and trends.

Mr Wichmann, the fifth Panorama Berlin is coming up in January. A large-scale tradeshow, which might by some have been regarded as superfluous in Berlin’s flourishing fashion business. What’s the secret to your success? We have always felt encouraged by the fact that the city needs precisely this tradeshow. And we wanted to offer a platform for market-relevant companies that had previously not been present in Berlin, neither at Bread & Butter nor at Premium. We have had a lot of support for this. If you look at the market, these brands have plenty of clout and are highly relevant for the retail trade. Even at the first event in January 2013 the buyers were unanimous on praising the large number of companies represented here, through whom seventy to eighty percent of their turnovers are actually generated. With regard to the other Berlin tradeshows, for us it has never been about competition. We wanted to complete Berlin as a business location and we have been given a warm welcome from the industry for this reason.

Unlike Bread & Butter or Premium, Panorama Berlin is a relatively young tradeshow, which has been able to build on the success of the other two. Where do you see your strengths and opportunities? We have a completely independent concept and want to offer the industry a platform. The praise and the support empowered us to get Panorama Berlin off the ground. Before that the fashion landscape in Berlin was like a beautiful car; we have given it the engine so it can drive. The number of exhibitors is constantly growing. With headliners like Baldessarini, Mac and Strenesse, but also some lesser-known brands. How do you structure your brand portfolio? First and foremost, the demand is already bordering capacity. 509 brands are currently represented at the tradeshow and more than 100 additional brands want to take part in the event, but we only have nine halls available in our new location and want to keep things manageable for the winter edition. For us it’s about further completing the offer. In the ca-

sual and sportswear sector there will be new additions and individual areas will be further expanded. We also want to develop the supporting programme of events and define the different areas more clearly. The idea behind the brand has to be visible for the specialist visitors and for this reason the balance between showcasing and product presentation should be right. Here it’s not about the event itself, but primarily the collections. We see ourselves as a marketplace of opportunities. How do you want people to see Panorama Berlin? We want to be service providers of the industry – a vibrant marketplace. If you want to make the market an offer, you have to provide them with the framework so they can do business. That’s why we are always working on new innovations. One innovation we will be offering in the autumn/winter 2015/2016 season is an electronic data exchange: a data check-in between visitors and exhibitors. What criteria do you use to select the exhibiting brands? The demand and philosophy of the brand are decisive. What do they want to achieve and how does this motivation fit into the existing portfolio? We base our decisions on things like market relevancy, trends and tendencies, look at the retail and what is currently in demand. Up until now the tradeshow took place at Schönefeld Airport, quite a way away from the whole fashion hustle and bustle in the city centre – but now you’re at the trade

fair grounds at the Funkturm. What brought about this decision? The airport was a good location, if it had opened when it was supposed to. The Panorama Berlin concept had enough pulling power and transporting all of our visitors all the way across town proved to be a small logistical miracle. But the area simply became too small and building a new extension would have been uneconomical. Our relocation to the city centre is making things easier from a logistical perspective and has resulted from positive constraints. And on the new premises we still have the opportunity to grow. Next to the urban Bread & Butter, the glamorous Premium and the trendy Seek, Panorama Berlin is more broadly positioned and modern. What is the tradeshow’s credo? We showcase the entire setup! The tradeshow isn’t called Panorama for nothing. It’s about reflecting what the market is demanding. We demand and offer value, reliability and scheduling consistency. Many of our exhibitors are owner-managed companies with a fascinating history. We work together with brands that follow values and traditions and from this power and expertise set new trends.

form, which offers the brands the opportunity to optimise their distribution networks. We are also extending our lectures line-up with relevant presentations on current topics. How do you see the future of Panorama Berlin? Will the existing concept remain in place? The market is undergoing major changes so we want to positively accompany this development. At the same time we want to offer continuity and consistency, to meet the needs of a world that is becoming increasingly networked and to provide security in a time when uncertainty is rife. But of course we will also continue to inspire and innovate. Berlin has established itself as a fashion and trade fair location in Europe. But could you ever imagine taking Panorama Berlin to other cities? I could envisage satellite events, if they made sense and if our exhibitors want to advance into other markets. By this I mean information events, to attract distribution partners for the brands. But Berlin has to remain the international location. From our base here we want to radiate a global pulling power. We’re standing by Berlin! Thanks for the interview!

What incentives do you offer buyers and exhibitors to come to your “marketplace”? In its new location Panorama Berlin will create worlds and add an emotional dimension to the different areas. We will continue to offer the hotspot shuttle, just like the hotel cooperations and all the other services. A new feature is the B2B matchmaking plat-

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Tradeshows — Jörg Wichmann / Panorama Berlin

Interview Jemima Gnacke Photos Peter Lorenz

www.breadandbutter.com

It’s back to square one for Bread & Butter, which, for the time being, will be staying in Berlin after all. Which doesn’t mean a step backwards, however, as this was the explicit wish of many of its exhibitors and professional visitors. And it’s still business as usual so at least we don’t have to miss out altogether. Karl-Heinz Müller is keeping us all on our toes. And that’s a good thing! It was only in July that the head of Bread & Butter announced that he wanted to hold the winter event in Barcelona, before backpedalling on his idea. Two brazen and, of course, very young authors of a men’s fashion

blog promptly accused him of having no balls. Which wouldn’t raise much of a smile with KarlHeinz Müller himself, as that’s pretty much the last thing that can be said about him. The Bread & Butter boss is, first and foremost, an absolute professional, who – admittedly – is known to overshoot the mark when the threat of boredom is looming. “Even Angela Merkel rethinks decisions,” is how he justified his change of mind to the Berliner Morgenpost newspaper. And he’s right! The industry and retailers had shown great scepticism to a winter event in Barcelona and there are rumours that one or two industry profession-

als virtually got down on their knees to beg Karl-Heinz Müller to please stay in Berlin. Especially because, for many brands, there is no alternative tradeshow during Berlin Fashion Week. After all, it is the German-speaking market that’s regarded as healthy and secure, and that’s what most of the retailers and producers want to focus on. Mediterranean countries like Spain are always associated with a certain risk, also in terms of the visitor frequency and are not exactly crisis-proof. So for the time being, everything will be staying the same and Bread & Butter will be taking place from 19 until 21 January

2015 at the same time as the other trade fairs and sales shows of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. The B&B “Grand Slam” concept, which Müller was talking about in summer – with Barcelona in January, Berlin in July and Seoul in September – hasn’t completely been shelved though. But that wouldn’t be the first time the trade fair organiser has been a few seasons ahead of his time. After all, just because the idea has been put on ice doesn’t mean it won’t ever happen in the future. /gh

STATION-Berlin Luckenwalder StraSSe 4-6 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com

Premium is a leading tradeshow for fully-fledged professionals. This is where the more upmarket segment can be found and whilst a concentrated working atmosphere prevails, there’s no shortage of inspiration either. Now it’s time for Premium organiser Anita Tillmann to expand in reaction to the trends and tendencies of the industry. Anita Tillmann is definitely Germany’s most attractive tradeshow boss. She proved this as she poured the obligatory bucket of icy cold water over her bikini body during her Ice Bucket Challenge in summer. But obviously it can’t be her good looks that

Denim By PremiÈre Vision 19 - 20 November 2014 Fira DE Barcelona Montjuïc venue Avda. Reina Maria Cristina, s/n 08004 Barcelona www.denimbypremierevision.com

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The leading tradeshow for denim professionals is and remains Denim by Première Vision, which this November is taking place in Barcelona for the second time. Its move from Paris to the Catalonian capital has been well received by the community, who will be turning up in their droves once again.

It was worth it! The relocation of Denim by Première Vision from Paris to Barcelona, which was inevitable, due to reasons of space alone, has in every respect proven itself to be the right decision. Even at the premiere last May there were around 45 percent more visitors in the Fira

Montjuïc halls than at the event the year before at the Halle Freyssinet in Paris. The denim community obviously had no problem with the local reorientation. “It’s a great initiative,” agrees Marco Lucietti, Global Marketing Director at Isko, one of the world’s biggest denim weavers. And it’s not only weavers and washers, but also finishing experts, technology experts and producers of ancillary supplies and fibres, all dedicated to the world’s most popular twill fabric, who will be getting together again from 19 until 21 November 2014 in the capital of Catalonia, which, at this time of year, still

offers enticingly moderate temperatures. So visitors can look forward to squeezing in the odd flying visit to the nearby city centre by the sea, which provides plenty of Mediterranean inspiration with its many little boutiques and cafés. “Gangs øf Denim”, the official motto of the next Denim by Première Vision, is a fitting choice, as the members of this denim community definitely feel like they belong together. Despite its continuous expansion, the size of the leading jeans tradeshow is still manageable compared to other fashion trade fairs, and there is definitely a family-like vibe to the whole event.

Expansion at Gleisdreieck ensure Premium is such a hit every season: the nationally and internationally-relevant visitors are most certainly drawn to the former postal freight train station at Gleisdreieck in Berlin by the excellent brand portfolio on show. High-fashion feels at home here in the heart of the German capital and an expansion is in the pipeline for the next event taking place from 19 until 21 January 2015. With the integration of the new segments, the portfolio will be extended, which, in concrete terms means an area increase of 17 percent. “Premium is responding to the needs of the industry with this expansion,”

Panorama 19 - 21 January 2015

Viva Barcelona!

Berlin ExpoCenter City JafféstraSSe, South Entrance 14055 Berlin www.panorama-berlin.com

But despite all of the fun and games, the main priority is doing business; after all, the exhibitors want to present themselves and their new innovations and close the all-important deals. Cultivating contacts with regular guests and newcomers is important, and, as usual, a large choice of bars and restaurants will be making sure no one goes hungry or thirsty. An accompanying programme of events with panel discussions and presentations of new and individual technical inventions is also planned. So now there’s nothing standing in the way of a journey into the “big blue!” /gh

The team behind Panorama would have liked to start earlier, which would have allowed them to celebrate the new autumn/ winter 2015/16 season collections as the kick-off event. But Jörg Wichmann is certain that even the January dates will guarantee success if all the Berlin tradeshows take place at the same time. The demand for more space continues. Berlin as a location is unique and unrivalled within Germany. And this is something that Jörg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama, who has been consulting intensively with his exhibitors and

Tradeshows – Premium Exhibitions & Mordefabriek

Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Platz der Luftbrücke 5 12101 Berlin

Premium Exhibitions 19 - 21 January 2015

buyers over the last few months, is all too aware of. And although most of those involved would have preferred an earlier date, in the end they settled on 19 – 21 January 2015. “For the majority of the relevant ladies’ outerwear suppliers the January 2015 date is far too late and weakens the location of Berlin as a kick-off event and information platform,” explains Jörg Wichmann. “Reaching a compromise on this date is the result of intensive discussions and follows requests from the buyers, who want one set of dates for all events during Berlin Fashion Week.” Without the Panorama as an

emphasises Anita Tillmann. “The strategy of growing organically, acting sustainably and assuming responsibility is, especially in times of change, very important and definitely pays off in the long term.” In a new hall approximately 30 luxury brands will be presenting their pre and/or main collections in a showroom-like setting. Tillmann and her team have their sights set on brands like Costume National, Talbot Runhof and Porsche Design; but also avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen are very welcome. Basically, the aim is to cover the entire spectrum, from premium and designer down to top-line

collections. And the Kühlhaus venue at Gleisdreieck is primarily intended for the high-turnover target group of the new generation of distribution agencies, which reflect the ranges of highly profitable stores like Galeries L afayette, Breuninger or KaDeWe. International brands that will present their fashionably-relevant collections to the retailers will be added to the portfolio. On around 2000 m² a department store atmosphere will be created, with individual booths and presentations. Anita certainly feels like she is on the right path: “The feedback from the brands regarding the new concept is really positive!” /gh

More Space for Men’s Fashion and Sportswear international fashion fair for the quality leaders of the volume segment, which showcases its exclusive fashion collections here, this is meanwhile hard to imagine. The spectrum of products on offer ranges from ladies’ and menswear to accessories, shoes and complementary products, which will be presented at Panorama in the collections for autumn/winter 2015/16. Nevertheless: after a successful summer event in the new location at Berlin’s ExpoCenter, Wichmann can’t help but be satisfied, which means that the January event is set to become even bigger. An additional area

increase of 6000 m² is planned, in order to extend the exhibitor portfolio further. The aim is to strengthen the segment of progressive men’s fashions and sportswear in particular. This is a clear reaction to the demand for more exhibition space. Jörg Wichmann comments: “In January 2015 we’re looking forward to getting another step closer to our goal of a fashion marketplace that is as extensive as possible and that presents all of the important trends and themes of the coming season early on.” /gh

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Tradeshows - Bread & Butter & Denim By Première Vision

Bread & Butter 19 - 21 January 2015

Berlin, Here we come!

Hammer Hallen Hammer StraSSe 27 40219 Düsseldorf Rheinlandsaal Georg-Glock-StraSSe 20 40474 Düsseldorf www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

The Gallery has achieved an astonishing market presence within three years. And it’s not only the organisers of the Düsseldorf tradeshow who are happy about this, but also the industry experts whose main priority is having the right atmosphere for doing business in. A modern further development of the event is therefore in the interests of everyone involved. “More Space – More Fashion” – the Igedo Company is looking forward to a new edition of its tradeshow The Gallery, which from 30 January until 2 February 2015 will once again be drawing large numbers of fashion experts

Fashion Pros Amongst themselves to Düsseldorf. No doubt many of them will be harking back to the good old days, when the city on the River Rhine was still regarded as Germany’s unrivalled fashion capital. But Berlin has meanwhile taken that throne so now it’s up to Düsseldorf to retain and develop its own new niche. The further development of the tradeshow concept of The Gallery has turned out to be extremely successful. At the last event in summer around 5000 professional visitors attended the trade fair’s three locations: Botschaft, the Hammer Hallen and the Rheinlandsaal. Big department stores like KaDeWe, Lodenfrey and Jades sent their

buyers to browse and of course order collections by the 450 labels on show. Particular satisfaction was expressed by the premium brands of the Italian agencies in the location at the sleek Media Harbour venue. The idea of integrating children’s fashion also offered many exhibitors the opportunity to present their entire ranges. “In today’s information society, well-developed ideas with an underlying concept are playing a far more prominent role than before,” says Ulrike Kähler, Igedo Company’s Project Director of National Fashion Trade Shows. “Our exhibitors have responded to this and adapted their offer

Who's Next 23 - 26 January 2015 VIPARIS – Parc des Expositions de la Porte DE Versailles 1 Place de la Porte DE Versailles 75015 Paris www.whosnext-tradeshow.com

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The early bird doesn’t always catch the worm. The organisers of Paris tradeshow Who’s Next realised this last summer. So for the January event they have decided to move the event to a later date, in the interests of creating a calmer and more concentrated atmosphere. The trade fair concept is also being fine-tuned.

It’s best to leave the others to get the season off to a start! Who’s Next in Paris is choosing to take place a few days later than the other order fairs in Florence and Berlin, and will be opening

its doors from 23 to 26 January 2015 – as usual at the Porte de Versailles. Last summer the specialist trade fair had opted for a particularly early date in the first week of July, which ended up not paying off. With regret the trade fair organisers reported a drop in the number of visitors by around 15 percent compared to the previous season. Surprisingly, it was primarily the French retailers who were missing from the event, obviously preferring to stay in their ‘boutiques’ and ‘magasins’ at home. But plenty Parisians turned up to the ‘Parc des Expositions’;

more than half of the domestic visitors came from the city. But when it came to foreign visitors, the numbers were up: the share of visitors from abroad was 38 percent. China, Japan and South Korea in particular were obviously represented in greater numbers than at earlier events, which confirms the general forecast that the Asian market is really gaining in relevance. All the same, the big, traditional and important customers came, saw and ordered. Including representatives from Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and Bon Marché; the latter of which is Europe’s

ISPO 5 - 8 February 2015 Messe München 81823 Munich www.isPo.com

and the presentation of their labels.” The shuttle service, which at the last edition chauffeured the visitors, who came from around two dozen countries, to the order platform’s different venues at regular intervals, is sure to be popular again this year. It will allow visitors to make the most of the extensive programme of accompanying events between important order appointments. Highlights like the Welcome Happy Hour in the Hammer Hallen, an exhibitor party and one or the other charity event are broadening The Gallery’s horizons and are the ideal way to round off a day of serious business dealings.

For international representatives of the sports industry, ISPO in Munich is regarded as a real highlight on the trade fair calendar. The perfect mix of hardware and textiles is topped every year and the atmosphere combines both cheerful enthusiasm and a concentrated working atmosphere. Hopefully it will snow! In addition to many other factors, the topic of weather regularly plays a role when the sports-mad visitors from all over the world get together at the ISPO in Munich. The unique proximity to the Alps and the never-ending choice of winter sports are always a huge

TradeShows – ISPO & GDS

Botschaft Cecilienallee 5 40474 Düsseldorf

FUN AND GAMES incentive and an ideal way to mix business with pleasure. As the world’s biggest trade fair for sport, ISPO, which has the subheading ‘Sports, Business, Connected’, is set to become another crowd-puller this year. Last year they even reported an exhibitor record: 2656 exhibitors from a total of 51 countries presented their portfolios; up by 84 compared to the previous year. With an area of more than 100,000 m² the Munich trade fair grounds certainly offer sufficient space, ensuring that in addition to hardware, textiles are also well represented. The new layout with its own Health & Fitness hall is especially impressive.

GDS 4 - 6 February 2015

Faites vos jeux! oldest department store, which opened back in the 19th century. Overall, the industry praised the new layout of Who’s Next at the July event, particularly the integration of the accessories area ‘Premiere Classe’ right next to ‘Fame’, where around 250 womenswear designers presented their portfolios. In turn, this seemed to have a negative effect on the ‘Who’s Next Accessoires’ section, which many buyers simply passed by. We’re interested to see how the organisers of Who’s Next will solve this problem in January. /gh

A growing focus on outdoor activities was also noticeable. “The hall concepts at ISPO Munich are clearly structured,” confirms Stefan Wahlén, Managing Director at Patagonia Europe, for example. “What we noticed is that the event is becoming more and more of a multi-segment tradeshow.” And indeed the majority of visitors are confirming that it is the extensive portfolio which has such an irresistible appeal and which, in addition to providing inspiration, is also conducive to many a new business relationship being formed. The newcomers showcasing their work at ISPO BRANDNEW are given a one-off

Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Stockumer KirchstraSSe 61 40474 Düsseldorf www.gds-online.COM

GDS in Düsseldorf is still the most important leading trade fair for international shoe trends. With a new concept, which is being updated each season, the organisers are appealing to manufacturers and retailers who want to present their portfolios, but who are also on the lookout for interesting trends. The ‘Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories’, or GDS for short, has taken the leap into the 21st century. Now, hardly anyone remembers back to the time when the abbreviation was short for the somewhat unwieldy ‘Grosse Deutsche Schuhmusterschau’

(‘Great German Shoe Sample Show’). The new concept, which was presented one and a half years ago, is strikingly modern and innovative. And at the last event in the summer the feedback coming from exhibitors and visitors was extremely positive; for the next GDS from 4 until 6 February 2015 this ascent is set to continue. At least 900 brands are expected to seize the opportunity to present their collections for autumn/winter 2015/16 on the Düsseldorf platform. Last July, the new concept ‘Tag it! By GDS – the show for private label & accessories’ was introduced. This is regarded as the

next logical step after ‘Global Shoes’ and will take place in February on all three days of the tradeshow. The summer edition attracted another 370 exhibitors. Here the focus should be on international retailers and manufacturers, who concentrate on private label products. “We have recognised that the market is demanding clearly positioned trade fairs,” says Kirstin Deutelmoser, Director of GDS. “With the new concept we are reflecting the needs of the market and offering the manufacturers and retailers a structural and conceptual framework in which to conduct their business.”

opportunity to make their first contacts and design their own professional presentation booth. Another highlight is the presentation of the annual ISPO Awards, where the internationally leading Sports Business Network awards the industry’s outstanding products. So now it’s time to get ready for the February 2015 edition. And even before the event, a textile trend for the 2015/16 winter season is already beginning to emerge: denim. Not to mention sustainably produced fabrics, which are also becoming increasingly important. /gh

In The Mood For Shoes The GDS is especially used as an information platform. Due to its early fixture on the tradeshow calendar, retailers have the opportunity to inform themselves about interesting trends before placing their actual order. Which fits in well with the idea of positioning GDS as the leading show. “In our visitor survey, the satisfaction level was 91 percent,” confirms Matthias Dornscheidt, Chairman and CEO of Messe Düsseldorf. “That’s a great figure, which reflects the mood at the GDS.” /gh

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Tradeshows – The Gallery & Who's Next

The Gallery 30 January 2 February 2015

Tradeshows – Pitti Uomo & Panorama

pitti Uomo 13 - 16 January 2015 Fortezza da Basso Viale FILIPPO Strozzi 1 50129 Florence www.pittimmagine.com

The crème de la crème of international menswear can be admired every six months in Florence. As well as the new collections and lifestyle trends in the world of menswear fashion, Pitti Uomo is also about “seeing and being seen”. Making a ‘bella figura’ but also doing good business. There can’t be many trade fair locations that are as steeped in history as the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, where the Pitti Uomo will once again be taking place from 13 – 16 January 2015. The fortress, which was built in the 16th century under Alessandro de’ Medici, belonged to the

Modefabriek 25 - 26 January 2015 Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 8 1078 GZ Amsterdam www.modefabriek.nl

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Modefabriek wants more! Just racks full of clothes are not enough for the Dutch tradeshow. That’s why every six months they are also presenting lifestyle segments that illustrate the very essence of fashion.

Modefabriek’s new ‘style’ was a resounding success. At least that’s the conclusion drawn by the Amsterdam trade fair organisers following the 37th edition of the Dutch platform for international men’s and womenswear last summer. After all, Modefabriek is not content with being a mere order fair; they owe more

Moda per l’uomo military until 1967 and was long regarded as a place of refuge for the population in the event of revolts. Today’s visitors are not seeking refuge, however, but new trends and inspiration: every two years flocks of fashion enthusiasts make their way to the venue to attend the specialist tradeshow Pitti Uomo. Every six months everything here revolves around men’s fashion and all that is associated with it. So for anyone who earns their crust in this sector, the 87th event this coming January is once again a must-attend event. Around 1000 collections are showcased to approx. 30,000 professional visitors from all over

the world, who, in passing, also get to enjoy the flair of the beautiful city on the River Arno. Just before the ordering phase for the autumn/winter 2015/16 season, the buyers of the big US department stores are just as interested in the new looks and styles as the owners of the smaller European stores, who are constantly seeking to filter out the perfect brand mix for their clientele from the all the choice available between brands such as Bench, Lacoste and Parajumpers. And representatives from the increasingly important online portals will also be attending. So not only will it be possible to eye up the competition, but also

to exchange ideas and communicate with one another. In addition to the primary common theme of ‘men’s fashion’, it is mainly its international reputation that makes Pitti Uomo so exciting. The important status that Pitti enjoys in Italy also became apparent last summer when the country’s Prime Minister M atteo Renzi personally opened the event. “The presence of Prime Minister Renzi was very important for us,” explains Gaetano Marzotto, President of Pitti Immagine. “It underlined the huge value of our tradeshow for the retail trade, the media and the city of Florence.” /gh

Lifestyle Inspiration than that to the creative clientele who regularly convene here. That’s why the organisers have been hard at work fine-tuning their concept until they found exactly the right mix. The keyword is inspiration, with the entire range of lifestyle sectors being represented: so in addition to fashion, there’s also design, art, food, photography, new media and, of course, music. After all, fashion is a reflection of the zeitgeist and the sum of many parts. Fortunately the RAI trade fair and congress centre in Amsterdam offers plenty of room to show-

case all these trends. Around 600 labels have enough space here to present themselves and their 2015/16 autumn/winter collections. The venue is divided into four segments, ‘The Frame’, ‘The Floor’, ‘The Pavilion’ and ‘The Square’. Denim experts like Evisu, Kings of Indigo and Kuyichi can be found in the already wellestablished ‘Blueprint’ area. The ‘Mint’ section is particularly popular, with its emphasis on sustainability as an increasingly important theme. And the organisers expect this area to be just as popular in January 2015. The consumer demand for

sustainable fashion is on the rise and, more than ever, retailers are on the lookout for fashionable alternatives that can be bought by the customers with a clear conscience. The organisers of Modefabriek have definitely understood that they need to go one step further than just fashion and cool accessories. That’s why every season the Amsterdam tradeshow makes an effort to come up with lots of little extras to create mini worlds which convey the stories of each particular trend to the visitors. /gh

See Sweat jacket Sleevles parka more Sneakers Jeans Fashion ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

Photography & styling Heiko Laschitzki Models Vinayak / M4 Models, Johann / Seeds Management, Matthew / Viva Models

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David Coat Christopher Raeburn T-shirt Wood Wood Trousers Tourne de Transmission

Boyd Jacket, sweater and trousers James Long

Photography Gunnar Tufta Stylist Karen Munnis Digital assistant Alex McBride Wilson Styling assistant Nicole Pierce Grooming Fabio Vivan using Bumble and bumble hair products Models Boyd Alves / Premier, David Valensi / Nevs

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Photography Katharina Poblotzki www.katharinapoblotzki.com Production Alexandra Heckel, Katharina Poblotzki Styling Natacha Voranger, Alexandra Heckel Models ChloĂŠ Firouzian & Jude Pinol / Izaio Hair & make-up Abra / Blossom Management

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Denim trends Spring/Summer 2016

Textiles & Trends — Çalik

Textiles & Trends — Orta Anadolu

TExt Cheryll Mühlen Illustrations Frauke Berg

Çalik Denim – Classics for a New Era

They are made to be worn, used and loved. But finding the perfect pair of jeans is never an easy task. After all, they have to fit our bodies perfectly, and if possible, be suitable for all occasions. “Mastering elasticity is key to the comfort and functionality of the fabric,” according to the team at Orta Anadolu. The interplay of technology and tradition ensures 100 percent comfort with a genu-

ine raw denim look. In addition to the classic Orta ‘Powerstretch’, last season they added ‘Fitswell’ and ‘Body Science’ (whose names speak for themselves) to the collection. And for spring/summer 2016 the Turkish denim makers are bringing new concepts to the table: ‘Ultra-Flex’ and

‘D-Fine’. The former is meant to add improved shape to the female figure without losing the authentic jeans look, despite their 70% stretch content. The ‘D-Fine’ family is particularly suited to the summer collections due to the lightness and softness of the denim and aims to add definition to the

feminine silhouette. Which means that suffering in the name of beauty is now a thing of the past. www.ortaanadolu.com

Mineral blue. Cool blue. Hudson blue. Irish blue. These are the latest blues from the spring/summer 2016 collection by Çalik Denim. In addition to a light take on pure indigo, the new washes, primarily

in the colour green, are setting the tone – whether ‘smoky’ and ‘dusty’, rich and dark or as a light wash over the blue base colour. New finishes are leading the classics into a new era: the ‘Shaky’ model ensures

summer coolness with its paper-like touch. ‘Miner’ gives the denims a soft feel and comes in different colours, whilst ‘Colorfuse’ is eye-catching on the inside and even has visible effects on the outside too. And even if that’s all too run-of-the-mill

for you, you are sure to be impressed by the NASA technology concealed in the Çalik Outlast line, which keeps the wearer warm or cool, depending on the outside temperatures. And if

that isn’t high performance, then we don’t know what is.

58 — 04/2014

Orta Anadolu – The Science of Stretch

www.calikdenim.com

Textiles &Fabrics Trends — & Candiani Trends — Bossa Denim

Textiles & Trends — Isko

The path leading back to the origins of jeans is long. And there’s no doubt that no other item of clothing could prove itself as successful and celebrate as many comebacks as jeans have over the decades. It’s not just the consistent character of the blue gold, along with its iconic status, that is so impressive, but also its capacity to constantly evolve. After all, one thing the market always demands is inno vation. Isko, the world’s largest denim

producer wants to deliver on its reputation for constant improvements and has specialised on high performance and stretch materials during its years in the business. For the spring/summer 2016 collection that means new benefits with the ‘Isko Reform’ and ‘Isko Jeggings’, as well as improved performance for an active lifestyle. Here the keyword is comfort. The hybrid material made of denim and knit, called ‘Isko Bluejym’, is even suitable to wear at the gym and yoga classes. So it seems like the denim success story is set to continue for quite a while yet.

58 — 04/2014

www.isko.com.tr

Serge de Nîmes. Serge de what? That’s French for ‘textiles from Nîmes’, which is actually how the term denim was coined. If there were an Italian version of the story of how denim originated, Candiani would definitely have one of the leading roles. The family-run business from Milan has been making jeans for 75 years now and represents quality and consistency. And those who deliver reliable high quality are usually driven by a certain passion. Along with more sustainability in their production methods, that is exactly what

Candiani is bringing to its latest innovations. For the spring/ summer 2016 season the Italian weavers are showing indigo, the traditional denim dye, from an unusually dark side: the ‘Sioux’ colour, a mid-dark indigo tone. This is rounded off with a ‘Black Tough Max Weft’ giving the jeans a raw denim look despite their comfortable fit. ‘Indigo Juice’ in

contrast, is a playful description of a sustainable dyeing technology that allows the dyes to be applied to the surface of the yarn, meaning that less water and energy are needed to achieve fantastic wash effects – not to mention the positive effect on the environment. www.candianidenim.it

58 — 04/2014

Isko – Blue Evolution

Candiani Denim – Passion for the Blue

Fabrics & Trends — Bossa

Bossa – Trinity of Colours If you’re churning out 37 million metres of denim a year, you’re going to know a thing or two about jeans! That’s why, in addition to its ecological RE.SET collection, Bossa is introducing three

contrast, is all about natural earthy tones and clean looks for unisex stretch denims. Shimmering silky finishes and lots of white make an appearance in the premium ‘Jewellery’ line, rounded off by functional denim with water and dirtresistant properties. This RE.SET collection is the Turkish denim manufacturer’s way of responding to their environmental impact: Bossa uses only natural dyes, ecologically cultivated and recycled cotton as well as biodegradable chemicals.

58 — 04/2014

new concepts for the coming season: ‘Docks’, ‘Earthing’ and ‘Jewellery’. The first one was inspired by dock workers and working-class looks from the eighties: ‘Docks’ stands out with its unisex styles and purple-blue colour scheme, ideal for both male and female modern seafaring folk. As its name implies, ‘Earthing’, in

www.bossa.com

Where to find Us

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Business Handel Das Magazin für Handelsunternehmer

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Der Coach für den Strukturwandel

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ten questions for — Alexander Graah, Dr. Denim

ten questions for:

Alexander Graah Dr. Denim

1 How old were you when you realised that you wanted to work in the fashion business? I was around 22 when I seriously started considering making the move. I’ve always had a thing for denim. I received my first matching stonewashed jeans and jacket at the age of three, but knowing that I wanted to turn my passion into a career came later on.

58 — 04/2014

2 Have you ever wanted to switch to another industry? I approached it the other way round. I studied economics at Oxford, worked as a strategy consultant in London and then decided to leave a promising but somewhat predictable corporate career and instead follow my heart. So I moved back to Sweden and started Dr. Denim together with my brother and our father. It’s been quite a ride and we have learnt a great deal, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.

3 What’s your favourite piece in your wardrobe? It varies. I’m not very sentimental. My preferences change – perhaps because we’re forced to always think ahead. Right now, it’s probably a vintage work jacket that I picked up in Tokyo earlier this year. I wear it every other day, mostly together with Dr. Denim clothing of course.

room which is the New York complex, which probably helps keep people on their toes and that’s not such a bad thing after all.

4 Is there a current trend that you don’t like? I try not to judge. 5 What is it that fascinates you about denim? Its versatility and possibilities. While there is a lot of intriguing history to it, that’s not what draws me in. We prefer to look toward the future and take a progressive approach to denim. Others interpret it differently. It allows such a variety of interpretations and a gradual evolution over time in a way that other fabrics don’t. Other fabrics are merely fabrics while denim has soul.

6 What do you think the trend item of the future will be? I think we’ve only scratched the surface in terms of second-hand clothing. There will come a point where buying new garments will be looked down upon – the fashion equivalent to driving a thirsty SUV, if you like. 7 You’ve just opened a showroom in Stockholm. What is so special about the Swedish capital? And not only a showroom but our very first flagship store – go and check it out at Bondegatan 46! Stockholm is quite a small capital but has a high concentration of brilliant creators who seem hellbent on making the most of the long dark winter hours. There’s something sinister about the city which adds to its aura. And then there’s the elephant in the

8 What is your favourite place in Stockholm? I have two of them. The first is Fotografiska. It has such a great atmosphere with well-curated exhibitions – not just the usual boring fine art photography but innovative and defining work by leading international photographers and sometimes even skilled amateurs. And then there’s Greasy Spoon with its great homemade food – I’d recommend sitting down for breakfast on a weekday when it’s not too crowded. 9 Is there anything you’d like to change in Stockholm or Sweden? I was going to say that I’d like longer summers, but without the darkness I fear that the place wouldn’t quite be the same, so no. It is what it is and I wouldn’t want to ruin it. 10 What is your wish for the next ten years? More than anything, I hope our first flagship store is well received and allows us to branch out to other creative capitals around the world.