J'N'C Magazine 2/2015 by J'N'C Magazine

JEANSWEAR And CONTEMPORARY FASHION

English

No 60 / 2-2015

Cool CIties / Buenos Aires

Cool Cities Buenos Aires Street Styles Retail Talks ANd Service

INterviewS: MartÍn Churba, Camila Milessi & Emiliano Blanco, Cora

ENGLISH

Groppo, Tobias Schröder D 9.50 Eur B/NL/A 10.50 EUr E/P/I 11.50 Eur CH 15.80 CHF

CO SY PA N T S

www.alberto-pants.com

schwitzke.com

Editorial

Gazing at new Horizons It’s certainly worth looking beyond your own horizons once in a while. That’s where new inspiration lies – as well as new insights into your own situation...

Not that this is a particularly new revelation,of course. But something that should be done regularly for it to have a long-term effect. And the same goes for the world of fashion too: looking and thinking outside the box is a tried-and-tested method of confronting the malaise of the fashion industry. This has a twofold effect: on the one hand, a change of perspective brings fresh momentum to your own personal attitude, which may have become jaded without you even noticing. And your actions, which are driven by automatic thought patterns, will be given an overhaul, resulting in new ideas and inspiration. Taking a step back, looking at things from a different point of view, in a transdisciplinary way, or simply DIFFERENTLY has resulted in the rejuvenation of many a brand or shop concept. On top of all that, you not only become aware of your own shortcomings but are also reminded of what problems you don’t have. In the case of Buenos Aires that is especially pertinent: the design metropolis we had the pleasure of visiting for this issue's Cool Cities guide proved to be a good teacher in many respects.

60 — 02/2015

A fashion biosphere that is also an experimental field for young designers

The most important lesson we learned there was in direct conversation with our interview partners, who are all involved in a fashion scene that is pretty unique and, for us, seems quite exotic: far beyond the world of Western fashion conglomerates, which are banned here by law, a rare breed is allowed to flourish in Argentina – a national fashion sector on

which globalisation has not yet been able to exert its influence. A fashion biosphere that is also an experimental field for young designers. That is genuinely exciting – but not without its own set of problems either. You can find out more about the richness of Argentine design but also the difficulties when it comes to export issues and sourcing materials in our Buenos Aires Talks from page 46. Despite this, changing perspective once in a while is definitely an activity we like to champion. After all, rethinking is a positive thing, as proven by Tobias Schröder. In conversation with J’N’C author Jemima Gnacke, the owner and company director of Khujo explains how an old leather jacket bought in New York set the ball rolling for him, and how an outerwear specialist from Hamburg ended up being the head of an entire urbanwear label sold at 1800 stores worldwide. And before we forget: we have an anniversary to celebrate. You are holding the 60th edition of J’N’C magazine in your hands – which seemed a good opportunity for us to ask some of our companions on this journey, our trusted clients and business partners, a few questions. Not because we were fishing for compliments, but to find out what they think about the fashion industry. We aren’t looking back at the past though, as is usually the case on anniversaries, but instead concentrating fully on the future: from page 56 you can read all about where the sector’s masterminds think the future of fashion lies as regards to retail, brands, the media and tradeshows. So join us in gazing at new horizons – and allow us to inspire you! Ilona Marx

Ilona Marx Buenos Aires is the perfect place in which to broaden one’s horizons. Ten kilometres a day is the average distance covered by Ilona Marx and photographer Bernd Wichmann (who was laden down with kilos of photo equipment) on foot in Buenos Aires. The South American metropolis, which has streets that are up to 140 metres wide, simply has different dimensions. Like the muchdeserved 500-gram steak savoured by Wichmann after a long day’s work. Read all about their journey in our Cool Cities guide from page 28.

READ THE GERMAN VERSION OF THIS EDITORIAL ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/ JNC_MAGAZINE

COntentS

Ov e r v i e w

CONTENTS

The Masterpieces

Street Styles

Kostüme

COra GrOppo

BUenos Aires Retail

MartÍn CHurba, Tramando

Fashion Shoots

60 — 02/2015

KhuJo

Cool Cities BUenos Aires

TRADESHOWS

MOVERS, MAKERS & MARKETS OF THE FUTURE 10

Denim Trends

108

Fashion Shoots

10 Questions

114

COntentS

Ov e r v i e w

COntentS Editorial Content Imprint Column / Contributors Bits & Pieces

8 10 12 14 16

The Masterpieces

Cool Cities BUENOS AIRES

Street Styles Retail Service Talks – MARTÍN CHURBA, TRAMANDO Talks – CAMILA MILESSI & emiliano blanco, kostüme Talks – cora groppo

30 32 41 46 48 50

TRADESHOWS Bread & Butter / SEEK premium exhibitions / panorama berlin GDS / The Gallery munich fabric start & bluezone / denim by premiÈre vision jacket required / revolver modefabriek / selvedge run

64 65 66 68 70 72

Fashion shoots LEO KRUMBACHER

LES INNOCENTES

Gunnar Tufta

WILLESDEN GREEN

CHRISTIAN STEINHAUSEN

Brands & Brains

LE DANDY SPORTIF

ERWIN WENZEL

khujo Interview WITH tobias schröder

MISTRESS OF PUPPETS

TAKING A DIFFERENT ROUTE

Textiles & Trends movers, makers & markets of the future

Denim Trends A/W 2016/17

living in Blue

108

Where To Find Us

112

Opinion Forum with Arthur Hoeld, Gideon Day, Jason Gallen, Jörg WIchmann, Kirstin Deutelmoser, Marco Götz, Silke Bolms, Holger Petermann, Andrea Canè, Anita Tillmann, Klaus Schwitzke, Thomas Wirth, Felix StAeudinger, Jürgen Konrad

Ten Questions For mads MØrup

knowledge cotton apparel

Publisher B+B MEDIA COMPANY GmbH Hildebrandtstr. 24 d 40215 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de Managing Director Michael Rieck

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Publishing Management Michael Rieck

Editor-in-Chief Ilona Marx /im Associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

Freelance Contributors Gerlind Hector /gh, Cheryll Mühlen /cm, Jemima Gnacke /jg, Fredericke Winkler /fw; Susanna Higham-Miska Photography Leo Krumbacher, Peter Lorenz, Christian Steinhausen, Gunnar Tufta, Erwin Wenzel, Bernd Wichmann Illustration Frauke Berg Translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley Design & Layout Martin Steinigen, chewing the sun, www.chewingthesun.com

Image Editing Jean Pascal Zahn Copy Editors Paula Hedley, Eva Westhoff Head of Production Stefan Mugrauer Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern Advertising Director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 151 p.daveta@bb-mediacompany.com

114

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column

TEXT Gerlind Hector Illustration Frauke Berg

Some of our

Contributors

Jemima Gnacke “Music is my life!” enthuses Jemima Gnacke, who after 13 years attending a Waldorf school cannot only dance her name, but is also a damn good singer. Writing is another of her passions, and following positions at Playboy (as an author!), and German newspapers Tagesspiegel and Zeit Online, she decided to take the freelance path in life. Which means she can now find time for extended trips to Thailand or India, where she loves to collect recipes. Her current favourite: papaya salad with sticky rice! For this issue of J’N’C, the Berliner visited urbanwear label Khujo in Hamburg.

Column

Viva il Vintage

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Leo Krumbacher

“Destroy what is destroying you,” sang Rio Reiser from the German band Ton, Steine, Scherben in the year 1969, by which of course he was referring to the State. After all, back in his day people were into politics in a big way. They established communes, staged sit-ins and took to the streets to really kick up a fuss. And the protesting generation of 1968, today’s pensioners, have another good reason to get worked up all over again. This time about the youth of today, who go by the name of Generation Y, are regarded as lazy and spoilt and fall for every stupid consumer trend that comes their way. But the old revolutionaries only have to adjust their reading glasses to see that people are finally in a position to do what they only talked about in the past. Or why else is there such a vintage hype sweeping over us, complete with scuffed jeans and washed-out shirts in used looks? Nobody wants brand spanking new anymore! Even the interior décor in our own four walls boasts the shabby chic, run-down look. This is our own way of experiencing the much-touted ideals of authenticity and sincerity. Finally we’re breaking what is breaking us, namely the eternal compulsion to join the consumer rat-race and own all the latest products. Isn’t that just great! But hang on just one second: it’s not as if we’re actually purchasing less, and no one really wants to scuff up their own sofa or mistreat their beloved jeans with a sandblaster either. Instead, an entire industry has established itself to provide us with the pseudo

‘used’ trend which, with the help of technology, is making our clothes and co. look ‘old’. But of course all of this comes at a price. Are they out of their minds? And are we all falling for it hook, line and sinker? No, it’s probably all a lot simpler and more straightforward than you’d think. The legendary trend researcher Li Edelkoort recently hit the nail on the head by announcing “Fashion is dead!” and stating that the industry is just a ridiculous and pathetic parody of its own past. So that’s the way it is, and because there’s no such thing as genuinely new anymore, the old is being ‘destroyed’. Which is sad in a way... but luckily there are some people out there who are offering clever alternatives! Creative upcycling fashion labels are transforming old garments into chic styles. And this summer the Bread & Butter tradeshow is focusing less on hip fast-fashion, instead choosing to offer young start-ups committed to that famous buzzword ‘sustainability’ a platform on which to showcase their products. Selvedge Run, a new tradeshow star in the Berlin Fashion Week sky, even wants to jump off the dizzying trend carousel altogether and present collections that focus on durability and timeless quality. Isn't it a crazy world we live in? Incidentally, the Bochum-based singer/songwriter Tommy Finke has written a hymn for this new and genuine sustainability attitude. As the modern response to the aforementioned rallying cry of 1969, he sings: “Repair what is destroying you!” And he could definitely be onto something there...

Ever since he was 13 years old, he has pretty much always had a camera in his hand. Leo Krumbacher has a penchant for all things visual and loves the natural beauty of women. So it made sense for him to specialise in fashion and beauty photography and to set up an office in Paris in addition to his home base of Hamburg. No sooner said than done! Since then, Leo has been taking photos for the world’s biggest magazines. When he’s finished work for the day he enjoys cooking up a storm in the kitchen, trying to convince his twin sons of the finesse of vegetarian cuisine. And so far he’s even had some success.

Christian Steinhausen Harvey Keitel, Willem Dafoe, Megan Fox – he’s had them all in front of his camera! Berlin-based Christian Steinhausen, who has roots in Munich and lived in New York for several years, really knows his stuff when it comes to fashion, people and portrait photography. He’s on firstname terms with colleagues like Ellen von Unwerth, Steven Meisel and Mario Testino and says he has a weakness for small flaws and imperfections on his shoots. But Christian isn’t quite as keen on disturbances when they involve wild boars interrupting his swimming sessions in the great outdoors. So it’s no wonder that this particular animal recently became one of his favourite things to eat...

Bits & Pieces

Bits & Pieces Edwin:

Don’t panic, it’s organic

G Design:

Keeping it casual

Wood Wood:

BACK TO THE 70s In terms of fashion, the seventies is one of the few decades that has always exerted a certain magnetic pull on fashion fans. So it’s hardly surprising that another revival is on the cards, and yes, we’re happy about it! AndCopenhagen label Wood Wood seems to be sharing our enthusiasm: for its autumn/winter 2015 collection entitled ‘Internationalism’ they are referencing elements characteristic of the seventies. But don’t worry: while New Age and other obscure forms of spirituality defined the lives of many a hippie in the past, at Wood Wood they are only inspiring the prints and graphics. So, get ready for seventies-style details like turtlenecks, A-shapes, lots of pockets, shearling and wide stitching! /cm

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WWW.woodwood.dk

The new autumn/winter 2015 collection by Mönchengladbach-based trouser label G Design is casual and nonchalant. Statement pieces like the ladies’ culottes and wide-cut trousers in a relaxed fit for the men show what ultimate comfort is all about. And the jogging pants are another great example of comfort – which is why they are such a key part of the collection. The colour palette of the menswear line ranges from muted grey and beige tones down to dark nuances like oyster black, dusk blue and purple shadow, with colours like olive, blackberry, elderberry and fawn brown dominating the ladies’ looks. Get ready for a comfortable next season. /cm

‘Authentic love for denim,’ is the claim of Japanese jeans brand Edwin. The traditional label has stayed true to its ethos ever since it was established in 1947. But even constant loyalty to ideals demands progress: so in addition to different collaborations, this autumn/ winter 2015/16 collection will feature organic denim for the first time. It also includes a selection of Japanese and European fabrics in different forms – raw or washed, with or without selvedge. The HR-Washes series, so far only available in blue, now comes in new colours like White Listed Black Denim. All in all, Edwin fans can look forward to no less than eight different cuts in ten fabric variations and 25 washes. Is your indigo heart already beating faster? /cm

AUGUST 8 –11

www.edwin-europe.com

www.g-design-trousers.com Modström:

Mother nature Hairy surfaces, fluted rib fabrics, glittering materials, peachy cupro, heavy yarns and soft knit; all of these can be found in the pre-fall 2015 collection by Danish fashion brand Modström. Nature is providing the inspiration, which not only has an impact on the diversity of fabrics, but also the colour palette. Camel plays a particularly important role in this collection and a number of warm and cold earthy tones are also making an appearance, complemented by dusky rose and deep magenta. Marbled and floral eye-catching prints break up the monochrome look of the designs and perfect the feminine fusion between casual and formal. /cm www.modstrom.com

JULY

8–10

STATIONBERLIN

MOC MUNICH

www.premiumexhibitions.com

Bits & Pieces C-of-H Man:

Slim Byron

s.Oliver Denim:

Blogtrotting Alberto Woman:

Do it all

IURI:

Whether a pair of trousers is perfect or not lies in the eyes of the wearer. So, to appeal to as many different tastes as possible, Alberto is offering eight different styles – from slim, sexy and sharp to smart and formal, down to smooth and casual. Which means that the label’s ladies’ line has doubled in size after just one season. After all, the traditional company from Mönchengladbach aims to fulfil the high demands of the modern do-it-all woman. Which, in view of the new autumn/winter 2015 collection, shouldn’t be too difficult. /cm www.alberto-woman.com

It all started with … … a sock. When IURI was launched on the market in 2013, the Italian premium brand made a name for itself with its eye-catching socks. And it’s been an upward journey from there. To top it all off, this autumn/winter 2015 IURI is now presenting its first clothing line: sweatshirts and shirts in a colour mix reflect the characteristic sleek look with urban coolness. In addition to the new fashion line and its popular socks, the Milan label is presenting a hat collection that also plays with the two-colour concept. As well as the generous use of colour, the ‘broken geometry’ prints, which continue the brand’s minimalistic style concept, are particularly striking. Head to toe in IURI? We like! /cm

s.Oliver Denim is sending its customers on multiple journeys – both around the world as well as through time. Following an extensive visit to the street art and music scene, an arctic adventure awaits, before travelling back decades to the dandy era. All in one season. The autumn/winter 2015 collection with the three looks ‘Main Street’, ‘Blog Trotter’ and ‘Under Control’ is therefore guaranteed to offer plenty of variety, expressed in laid-back sportswear, innovative materials, traditional designs and unusual silhouettes. Urban. Authentic. s.Oliver Denim. /cm www.soliver.com

www.iurionline.com

Our Legacy:

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Back to the future A melting pot of different styles and references doesn’t necessarily signify a lack of concentration on the essentials. A prime example of this is being offered by the label Our Legacy which, for its autumn/winter 2015 collection ‘Ten’ – as the name suggests – is reflecting on the first ten years of its brand history to mark the 10-year anniversary. The Swedes are referencing influences and favourite styles from the past decade and turning them into something new. “Ten is kind of a mixtape,” says Our Legacy’s co-founder Jockum Hallin. The collection features vintage Air Force elements and futuristic outdoor-tech details in the form of the Beefy Shearling Bomber, soft alpaca overcoats and techy padded nylon pullovers, flanked by denim in daring fits. The silhouettes are loose-fit and even a few menswear no-gos are being (masterfully) ignored: denim on denim, layered jersey roll-necks or sleeveless shirts are for once not taboo. Our Legacy’s look back is paving the way for its future-looking path ahead. /cm www.ourlegacy.se

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS

I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

The Masterpieces

Geneviève Gauckler

Tél. 33 (0)1 43 72 50 91 - Mobile 33 (0)6 81 46 45 50 agent@tiphaine-illustration.com - www.tiphaine-illustration.com

exe_Tiphaine_LeBook_V5.indd 6

05/12/13 11:04

LE BOOK PRESENTS

Peter Tarka

Tél. 33 (0)1 43 72 50 91 - Mobile 33 (0)6 81 46 45 50 agent@tiphaine-illustration.com - www.tiphaine-illustration.com

exe_Tiphaine_LeBook_V5.indd 5

05/12/13 11:04

Editor’s Pick

J’N’C Proudly Presents:

THE CUSTOM MADE TRADESHOW WITH THE WORLD’S BEST IMAGE MAKERS & CONTENT CREATORS

The masterpieces that have what it takes to become true classics

DIGITAL FILM PRINT PRODUCTION AWARDS EXPERTISE TALKS INSPIRATION NETWORKING REGISTER NOW! WWW.LEBOOK.COM/CONNECTIONS

Photos Bernd Wichmann

JSR ILLUSTRATE X4 LE BOOK 2014_Layout 1 31/03/2014 00:37 Page 3

RAID71

TEXT CHeryll Mühlen

LUKE LUCAS

Caslon 540 by Monotype

Gill Sans® by Monotype

IMAGES (LEFT TO RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM ) : WARREN DU PREEZ & NICK THORNTON JONES, DAVID SLIJPER, GENEVIÉVE GAUCKLER, MARK PECKMEZIAN, PETER TARKA, MERIJN HOS, VENETIA SCOTT, MARTIN PARR / FABIEN BARON, LUKE LUCAS, BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV, DAMIEN BLOTTIÈRE, MONOTYPE, GREGORY HARRIS

60 — 02/2015

T. 020 7228 6667 | F: 020 7681 1027 | E. agency@jsragency.com | www.jsragency.com | Unit 4. 3 Lever Street. London. EC1V 3QU. UK

Big Pete Dr. Denim

Adelle iheart

“The perfect oversized unisex denim shirt, featuring a light, yet durable, 5 oz. denim and a fit inspired by your local thrift store finds, combined with a wash inspired by plain early nineties

denim.” That’s what Alexander Graah, CEO of Dr. Denim has to say about ‘Big Pete’. And the shirt, made of 100 percent cotton in the colour ‘Blue Used’, is certainly living up to its name

because it really is oversized – but by no means shapeless! In a world of slim and tailored-fit, the design stands out with its unabashed simplicity. Details include a chest pocket and button-down

www.drdenimjeans.com 22

collar. Otherwise the Swedish label has chosen to forgo any extras. If ‘Big Pete’ were in our gang, we’d describe him in two words: plain cool. /cm

“The leather trend is continuing,” is the clear statement from Düsseldorf fashion label iheart for the upcoming autumn/winter 2015 season. “But the look should be new!” Which is why the label’s designer and foun-

der Alexandra Kiefermann isn’t focusing on the omnipresent low-rise skinny style, but offering us a pair of trousers made of 100 percent wafer-thin leather with a high waist and wide cut. The casual, feminine trouser model

has been christened ‘Adelle’ and embodies what its name represents: noblesse and delicacy. But iheart is showing it’s also a fan of contrasts by adding understated coolness to the intentional delicate elegance: low side

pockets, a vertical seam over the knee and the colour coordinated belt give this more classic cut a subtle cargo pants touch, making ‘Adelle’ a real eye-catcher and a sure-fire ladies’ wardrobe staple for the coming season. /cm

The Masterpieces

Cool noblesse – iheart

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The Masterpieces 60 — 02/2015

Plain perfect – Dr. Denim

www.iheart.de 23

Clergy Shirt The Suitcase

Shopping Bag Tramando

This autumn/winter 2015/16 Masterpiece is by British designer Agnes Kemeny – who some of you will also be familiar with as Nigel Cabourn’s right-hand woman. For her own label, Kemeny is focusing on a line that should fit into a suitcase, very much

along the lines of the philosophy of Hungarian lyricist Sándor Márai: “Those who travel light stay young.” And so with that in mind, the Clergy Shirt is the perfect travel companion. The airy cotton silk is not only soft, but also gives the rather mascu-

line, wide cut precisely the right amount of femininity, which is an important feature. After all, with its stand-up collar and subtle jacquard stripes, the vintage style is somewhat reminiscent of granddad’s favourite shirt. Sophisticated details, like the

www.thesuitcaseclothing.com 24

olivewood buttons and narrow cuffs with slit, give this blouse its finishing touch of casual boyish yet feminine charm. The Clergy Shirt is a real classic in the making. /cm

People are like magpies. As soon as something glitters and glistens we give it our full attention and want to have it. This autumn/ winter 2015, the fashion label Tramando from Argentina is enticing shoppers with a shimmering

leather bag in a fresh cream tone with a metallic patina. The collection references images from the work of Buenos Aires artist Rosa Škifić, whose paintings are inspired by the forest and the story of Little Red Riding Hood.

Tramando experiments with different prints and textures, giving the old fairytale a modern-day twist with poetic grunge chic. And because chic can still be practical, the inside of the bag reveals a little additional leather

bag with zip and two separate, open compartments – for all Little Red Riding Hoods seeking adventure beyond the depths of the forest. /cm

The Masterpieces

Shine bright – Tramando

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The Masterpieces 60 — 02/2015

Ahead of the pack – The Suitcase

www.tramando.com 25

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Serena Mavi Super skinny. Super fit. Super glam. Super Serena. This autumn/winter 2015 the lowrise models from the successful continuation of the ‘Glam Fit’ line by Turkish denim label Mavi are offering everything a woman has come to expect from a great

pair of jeans: unlimited flexibility, a design that retains its shape and a rounder derrière. Our Masterpiece ‘Serena’ combines modern textile innovation with an authentic denim look – with excellent elasticity. And it has the special material XFIT Lycra to

thank for this, which means the jeans don’t bag or sag around stress points like the knees, inseam and back rise. And the figure-enhancing line of the seams create a push-up effect: vertical stitching lifts the posterior, forward-sitting side seams

eu.mavi.com 26

The Masterpieces

It’s the nineties, baby! – New Balance

530 New Balance also create a slim silhouette and the slightly off-side back pockets round off the jeans in a way that is certain to appeal to every female denim wearer. Thumbs up. /cm

Sometimes when we are told we can’t have something, we want it all the more. After celebrating its sneaker debut in 1992, New Balance’s 530 running shoe soon disappeared off the radar. But did that mean we had to say

goodbye to the 530 forever? Not quite. Because, as is the case with most classics, the shoe quickly turned into a coveted collector’s item, which has since found its way back onto the asphalt – as a homage to the gol-

den era of the nineties. As part of the ‘90s Running Collection’, its appearance is true to the original, but the features have been fully updated to meet 21st century requirements. The midsole, which has been improved thanks

to patented ENCAP technology, ensures optimum support to the feet during movement. Design meets comfort – you can’t get much more of a picture-perfect comeback than that. /cm

60 — 02/2015

The Masterpieces

A well-rounded affair – Mavi

www.newbalance.com 27

In a large country like Argentina space is dealt with

Cool Cities / BUenos Aires

Text Ilona Marx Photos Bernd Wichmann

differently – this is visible in every creative discipline

Cool Cities

BUenos Aires Buenos Aires has as many different sides to it as the country it’s in: Argentina covers a surface of almost 2.8 million square kilometres and is the eighth largest country on earth, with about as many regions and climate zones as Buenos Aires has districts and neighbourhoods. Around 13 million people live within its city borders: just under a third of the entire country’s population.

60 — 02/2015

Local designers don’t have to try and compete with H&M and Zara

But you’ll be looking in vain if you are expecting to shop at European or American-style retail chains and department stores. Instead, the cityscape is dominated by mono-brand shops by local designers as well as Argentine chains, a true Eldorado for any shopper jaded by shopping mall monotony. The reason for this special situation is that Argentina’s politicians have their eye on the domestic market and protect Argentine companies from international competition and low prices with protective legislation. This means that local designers don’t have to try and compete with H&M and Zara and are able to develop much more freely. Who would have thought that the economic crisis of all things would be the motivating factor for a whole host of success stories? One thing is for certain: for many creative industries, the crisis was often the key to new opportunities. Many of those achieving success today started their businesses at the be-

ginning of the millennium, when the rents and real estate prices had hit rock bottom and people were looking for other ways to make a living.

In Buenos Aires, shopfitting is obviously a discipline the local creatives have a real talent for and enjoy However, there is another side to the coin: because of the tightening of import regulations, Argentine designers often have problems accessing affordable and high-quality materials. They frequently have to settle for what their own country has to offer. Which in turn often impacts on their competitive edge. In addition, the instable and weak peso, along with inflation, leads to rapid price increases within the shortest of timeframes: sometimes even in the time a product is ordered until its delivery. We talked to Cora Groppo, Martín Churba of Tramando and Camila Milessi and Emiliano Blanco of Kostüme about how local designers are coping with these challenges. But getting back to the special strengths of this very unique metropolis: you can easily spend days drifting though Palermo, the city’s hotspot for fashion and restaurants. And you can browse through exclusive boutiques in the Recoleta district or be inspired at the antiques market in San Telmo, which also boasts some great vintage shops. Not forgetting the many culinary pleasures to be had, of course: steak and wine is a combination you definitely shouldn’t miss out on in Buenos Aires. Discover our best tips on how to rest and relax in this restless city from page 32. Read the GERMAN VERSION OF this Guide on WWW.JNC-NET.DE

Buenos Aires in Numbers Number of inhabitants in the greater area: approx. 13 million, equivalent to 3035% of Argentina’s entire population Number of taxis: 40,000 Longest street: Avenida Rivadavia with a length of 35 (!) km Widest street: Avenida 9 de Julio with a width of 140 (!) m Longest road in the world: the Pan-American Highway is a network of roads measuring about 48,000 km in length – and ends in Buenos Aires Population of Argentina who are of European or partial European descent: approx. 97% Number of cows in Argentina: approx. 8 million Annual steak consumption in Argentina: 70 kg per capita Annual wine consumption: 38 litres per capita

60 — 02/2015

Internationally, Argentina is famous for its wines, steaks, tango dancing – and most recently the country also hit the headlines with the Nisman affair, involving its president Fernández de Kirchner. When it comes to fashion though, there’s not much that makes its way over here to us in Europe. Which is a shame, because the locals are a fashion conscious bunch. If you wander the hipster district of Palermo Soho – named, of course, after its famous New York counterpart – you’ll be surprised to discover countless spacious shops with wonderfully designed interiors. In a large country like Argentina space is dealt with differently, and that’s palpable not only in terms of size but also quality. In Buenos Aires, shopfitting is obviously a discipline the local creatives have a real talent for and enjoy.

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires — Street Styles

BUenos Aires Street Styles

Pat, 34, fashion photographer Shirt, jeans and boots AY Not Dead Waistcoat Hum Vee

Mercedes, 27, model Top Estancias Chiripa Shorts Sofia Caputo Shoes Las Pepas Bag Marc Jacobs

Julia, 30, designer

“I like the

Dress and bag Tramando Shoes Adidas

“The people

local mix

who work in

of Latin

fashion here

American and

really live and

European

Florencia, 26, anthropologist

breathe it.”

brands.”

Dress, blouse and bag Tramando Shoes Nazaria Zapatos

Pat

Mercedes

Olqo Ling, 19, sales assistant Shirt Orange Shorts and shoes from a market Bag Prada Jewellery from China Nen Sing, 19, sales assistant Dress and shoes from China Bag Kadiou

“fashion-wise You can take risks here, which is fun!” Fiorella

Tomas, 26, sales assistant Outfit Airborn Julie, 33, stylist

Delfina, 35, executive producer at Fox TV Dress Delaostia Shoes Converse

Fiorella, 30, actress Vest Cocó Jolie Shorts Zara Shoes Wanted Sunglasses Infinit

Daniel, 24, stylist Jeans and shirt Zara T-shirt H&M Sweater, glasses, necklace and rucksack Vintage Watch Casio Shoes Minash Beach

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Top and shorts Zara Sandals Emotion Bag See by Chloé

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires — Retail

Buenos Aires Retail

Tramando Rodríguez Peña 1973 C1021ABN Buenos Aires T +54 11 48110465 Tramando Laboratorio Honduras 4881 C1414BMM Buenos Aires T +54 11 48335955

Mon – Fri 10:30 am – 8:30 pm Sat 11 am – 7 pm

set her up with,

experimenting with surfaces and textures and calls the branch on Rua Honduras his ‘laboratory’

www.jtbyjt.com

serves as the

fashion designer the artist Martín Huberman. It references an Argentine furniture classic, the BKF chair, which was designed in 1938 by Antonio Bonet, Juan Kurchan and Jorge Ferrari Hardoy, and is also known as the Butterfly Chair. Here Huberman has created a sculpture that supplies a creatively ambitious but not too dominant framework for Churbas’ individualistic designs. Tramando’s headquarters in the sophisticated Recoleta quarter, on the other hand, completely

Mon – Sun 11 am – 7 pm

contrast this aesthetic. There, a yellow iron tubular construction winds through the space, held in place by leather straps in natural tones. The changing cubicles are protected from prying eyes by curtains printed with woodgrain patterns, while an elegantly curved staircase leads up to the upper floors where Martín Churba and his team are already working with fervour on upcoming collections.

JT One of the movers and shakers of Argentina’s fashion scene is Jessica Trosman. So it comes as no surprise to hear that her triad of store, atelier and experimental studio is one of the most important ports of call for fashionable visitors to the capital. A former depot for car parts, which her father set her up with, serves as the spacious base for Jessica’s headquarters. Graphic lines not only dominate her designs, but

spacious base for Jessica’s headquarters the division of the sales floor with the help of cleverly positioned mirrored walls is proof that Jessica Trosman has a thing for lines and proportions. The blonde designer not only works on her own collections, she is also busy working for big names in the European world of fashion such

as Chanel and Rick Owens. Trosman develops her prints and textiles together with her husband Pablo Sandrigo and shows her own line in Paris – which she now distributes worldwide to over 30 stores, including high-profile shopping temples like L’Eclaireur, Antonioli and Harvey Nichols. That makes her one of the few Argentines to have made the big leap across the pond. As the price to pay for her somewhat off-

the-beaten-track location at the lower end of Rua Humboldt in the Palermo Hollywood district, Jessica has ceded a part of the location to health food restaurant Yeite. In the dark-green tiled café the fashion crowd catch up over a sumptuous sandwich or a delicious slice of cake which kitchen chef Pamela Villar, famous for her baking, serves up in a relaxed atmosphere.

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The most spectacular shop in the shopping and nightlife quarter of Palermo Soho is part of Martín Churba’s fashion empire. The textile and fashion designer loves experimenting with surfaces and textures and calls the branch on Rua Honduras his ‘laboratory’. Martín, who is 44 years old, also has a printing machine here, enabling him to transfer some of his colourful print designs onto garments. But the room is mainly dominated by an airy-looking metal tubular construction by

Opening Times

which her father

The textile and loves

Humboldt 291 C1414CSE Buenos Aires T +54 911 48576009

for car parts,

www.tramando.com

Tramando

A former depot

Opening Times

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires — Retail

Brands

INFLUENCES AND A strong affinity to the art scene

AY Not Dead MEN’S STORE Gurruchaga 1715 C1414DII Buenos Aires T +54 11 48330327 Red Market

ARE aspects THAT

WOMEN’S STORE Gurruchaga 1637 C1414DII Buenos Aires T +54 11 48332999

Gurruchaga 1686 C1414DIH Buenos Aires T +54 11 48337118

define the label

Opening Times

Mon – Sun 11 am – 8 pm

Mon – Sat 11 am – 8 pm Sun 2 pm – 7 pm

to this day, with Noël designing

aynotdead.com.ar www.redmarketargentina.com

all the clothes

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of sneakers on offer is one of Red Market —

AY Not Dead

the other is

Red Market strong affinity to the art scene, these aspects define the label to this day, with Noël designing all the clothes herself. Their denim garments for women and men are highly popular amongst the young Porteños, the inhabitants of Buenos Aires, because of their excellent fit. The jeans are rounded off with leather jackets, T-shirts, jumpers and dresses.

broad range

integral aspect

herself

This is a family business, but of the cool variety. Noël Romero and her brothers Diego and Martín are the masterminds behind the successful Argentine label AY Not Dead. Designer Noël was still very young– in her early twenties to be precise – when the trio decided to start up a business in 2003. Influenced by punk and rock but also with a

The

And the line is gaining international recognition: AY Not Dead is on sale at stores like Opening Ceremony in New York and was available at Selfridges a few seasons ago. In their homeland the Romeros now run 15 stores, five of which are outside of Buenos Aires. The most eyecatching is the menswear shop on Rua Gurruchaga, the epicen-

tre of the hip district of Palermo Soho. A jungle-like greeneryfilled courtyard with natural stone flooring forms the heart of the store, with large seats and Noël’s favourite pieces creating an intimate atmosphere. Awaiting fashion-addicted chicas a few steps up the street is the AY Not Dead women’s store.

When they first opened their doors back in 2000 we wonder if the creators of Red Market could have ever imagined that their city would be dominated by the socalled ‘Blue Market’ just 15 years later? That’s the name of the unofficial, but highly flourishing, black market currency exchange that provides US dollars for the local peso at a much better rate

the cool than the official one. But regardless, a certain affinity to Western values is certainly palpable at Red Market too. Brands like Dr. Martens, Paul Smith, Cheap Monday, Nixon, Converse, Vans and New Balance are proof of that. And at the store on Rua Gurruchaga they even stock exclusive models by Vans and New Balance. The broad range of

gadgets and interior design accessories sneakers on offer is one integral aspect of Red Market: the other is the cool gadgets and interior design accessories. Marshall

amplifiers, seating cubes featuring loudspeaker prints and a sofa that looks like a keyboard will appeal to the music-loving, skateboarding clientele. Porcelain skulls and hand grenades are items for the smaller budget, as are the furry trophies – leopards and other wild cats that cast their beady eyes around the store.

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punk and rock

3 Monkeys, Absurda, Cheap Monday, Converse, Diesel, Dr. Martens, Fred Perry, G-Star, Jeffrey Campbell, Keds, Marshall, New Balance, Nixon, Palladium, Paul Smith, Urban Ears, Vans

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires — Retail

To begin with, Agustina concentrated on the production of silver jewellery and knitwear. Her collection has meanwhile matured into a complete fashion line Centrico Francisco Acuña de Figueroa 1800 1416 Buenos Aires T +54 11 48650143 Opening Times Mon - Fri 11 am – 7:30 pm Sat 11 am – 5:30 pm

Continuing the family

www.centricocentrica.com.ar

A.M.O.

tradition, Leonardo,

Gurruchaga 1763 C1414DII Buenos Aires T +54 11 48317346

who is an engineer,

Opening Times

fashion designer and

Mon – Fri 12 noon – 8 pm Sat 1 pm – 8 pm

photographer

boutiqueamo.com

all rolled into one, launched his shoe collection in 2009

The team behind shoe label Céntrico had to take a few steps off the beaten track, but it was worth it to find this beautiful location. The sun-drenched corner store is painted in a light cream beige whilst large-format photographic art hangs on the roughly plastered walls, underlining the gallery character of the generously proportioned store. And every shoe on display at Céntrico is presented like a small work

of art. Completely handmade in Argentina, the collection by designer Leonardo Mancuso is one of the best that the country’s shoe fashion has to offer. Continuing the family tradition, Leonardo, who is an engineer, fashion designer and photographer all rolled into one, launched his shoe collection in 2009. The mark of a true all-rounder: he develops his shoe models regardless of fashion seasons or times of the

year. One of his most relevant and popular models is a simple lace-up boot with leather sole: an elegant answer to military field boots. It’s a unisex model just like all the men’s shoes, and is available in smaller sizes too. There are also sandals and wedges designed with women in mind. An atmospheric contrast to the light-filled main sales room is a small oak-panelled cabinet incorporating the sales

counter, which seems to have come straight from the past. The retro-inspired ceramics on display complete the sixties-style ambience. A staircase leading to a gallery above opens up the room with theatrical panache. In the basement floor of the store there is also a photo gallery where Leonardo continues to enjoy his passion for photography.

A.M.O. A top education at London’s Central Saint Martins and fiveyears of in-depth work experience are the foundations of the A.M.O. collection, a newcomer on the local shopping scene. The young Agustina Moreno Ocampo is the brains behind these three initials. She worked with her successful colleague

Jessica Trosman for a long time before launching her own label five years ago. To begin with, Agustina concentrated on the production of silver jewellery and knitwear. Her collection has meanwhile matured into a complete fashion line. The designer started off by selling to friends and by word of mouth: now

A.M.O. has built up its own small empire in the district of Palermo Viejo. Sophisticated layering of the finest jersey materials and gauze-like cottons is the basic element of the current collection. Lots of the women’s only items are oversized; often the designs are based on graphicquality patterns. This is an

influence for which her mentor Jessica Trosman might also be partly responsible. Despite the growing range of clothing, the designer isn’t neglecting her passion for jewellery. The A.M.O. necklaces combine textiles with precious metals and are the perfect accompaniment to her clothing range.

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Céntrico

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Buenos Aires Retail + Patrón Her name says it all: Laura Patrón Costas really is the patron of the local fashion and jewellery scene. As a trained jewellery designer herself she recognised that there was no platform for her younger colleagues to present their precious goods on. Laura’s concept store on the popular Rua Malabia in Palermo Viejo stocks handmade and, in part, limited series by Argentine designers, including Marina Massone and Gabriela Horvat, who already enjoy international acclaim. www.patronba.com

The Estebecorena brothers have been using multidisciplinary methods for a long time now. Alejo studied industrial design and Javier is a fashion designer, and even before starting their own label they were working in the most diverse of fields. In 2001 when the great crash brought Argentina’s economy to its knees and forced many people to take stock and rethink, the two decided to set up their own men’s fashion label. Finding new solutions in terms of form and function, developing styles that are not only practical but also fulfil the highest demands in terms of aesthetics, has been their mission ever since. One of their most famous customers is no doubt Bono of U2 who ordered some leather jackets from the brothers for his concerts.

Elena Mudry, Rua Defensa 1185, Apt. 8

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Sustainable fashion has a name in Buenos Aires: Cubreme. Alejandra Gottelli, the designer of Cubreme has dedicated himself wholeheartedly to the production of ecologically sustainable fashion. Most of the raw materials like bamboo, cotton, sheep’s wool, llama and vicuña wool come from Argentina; only the alpaca comes from Peru and the silk from Paraguay. Many of the textiles are produced here on oldfashioned, manually-operated weaving looms and then sewn and finished in small workshops and cooperatives. Each product is made by one person, from start to finish: an idea which Alejandra Gottelli sets great store by. Timeless and contemporary is perhaps the best way to describe their style.

Celedonio Celedonio’s dream kingdom is a single-storey, ivy-ranked house in a courtyard in Recoleta, with a narrow staircase leading to the first floor. This is where the landscape architect and jewellery designer Celedonio Lohidoy works on his unusual pieces of jewellery. The atelier is the stage on which he expresses his fantasy and fascination for nature: spiders, beetles, butterflies, flowers and leaves adorn the tall jeweller’s necklaces, rings and brooches. When he was a young boy, Celedonio would play in the forest for hours and days. And even then his hands were always busy. Using objects he had found he would build small sculptures. And when the weather was bad he liked to stay indoors and inspect the contents of his grandmother’s jewellery box. Not much has changed since then: except now Celedonio uses precious metals and stones to create opulent talismans – and is famous for them all over the world. www.celedonio.com.ar

Fueguia 1833 Gorrión

www.hermanosestebecorena.com

Cubreme

A real gem, well hidden away in the heart of San Telmo, and a must-see. Over the past 40 years, former model Elena Mudry has been collecting vintage white blouses decorated with lace and embroideries. Her collection – in all white nuances imaginable – is housed on the first floor of a pretty townhouse built in 1910 on Rua Defensa and is fit for a museum. Anyone interested in hand-sewn historic textiles will faint at the sight of these wonderfully dreamy originals. And the best thing is that these works of art are for sale! And aren’t even astronomically expensive. Are you looking to step up to the altar in an ivory-coloured lace dress dating back to the twenties? If you don’t hit lucky here, then you won’t anywhere else.

Kabinett The apple never falls far from the tree. Eduardo Costantini Jr, the son of the eponymous owner of the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires), an enterprising businessman and lover of the arts, has followed in the family tradition and also opened his own business. Kabinett is the name of his concept store, which, inspired by the museum shop in MALBA, also sells art books, design objects and accessories. As the younger Costantini has a nose for highquality design, the Kabinett is most certainly worth a visit for any architecture lovers: the entrance area of the store, with its modules that can be opened or closed, is reminiscent of a foldable cardboard box.

El gorrión, Spanish for ‘the sparrow’, is the label’s emblem for hand-worked leather wares. The brainchild of graphic designer Pablo Attolini and architect Nicolás Cunto, Gorrión was born 12 years ago. The schoolyard of their childhood and materials provided by Mother Nature inspired the two friends in the development of their first collection, which consisted of leather and canvas bags. Today, clothing and other accessories have broadened the portfolio and even felted wool and PU make an appearance. The line is produced exclusively in Argentina under fair-trade conditions. www.soygorrion.com.ar

A natural paradise like Patagonia is full of scents and smells: a veritable potpourri of timbers, flowers, rich earth – everything here smells different than it does in the old world. A discovery which Julián Bedel and Amalia Amoedo have put to good use: Julián is the descendent of famous French naturalists and is a perfumer, and Amalia is the niece of the recently deceased richest woman in Argentina. The pair got together and founded a perfume universe centred on the fragrance of their homeland. Just as he was born to do, Julián focuses on the local flora, reworking their essences into unusual perfumes at his laboratory in Buenos Aires. The team at Fueguia 1833 places great emphasis on sustainability, an ethical code that influences even the smallest of decisions. www.fueguia.com

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Hermanos Estebecorena

Elena Mudry

www.cubreme.com www.kabinett.us 38

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Buenos AIres Service

BUenos AIres Retail +

Costado In Argentina, space is a whole different ball game than in Europe. When it comes to interior design, size really plays a role. The furniture, the lamps, the carpets, the cushions – everything here is large, expansive and oversized. One homeware collection that underlines this idea is by Alejandra Giraud and goes by the name Costado. Alejandra designs beds, sofas, wooden bowls, brass lamps, furs, blankets, trays, baskets, porcelain and glassware, all in her unique signature style. All of the items mix and match, complementing each other stylistically. The expansive sales floor on Rua Godoy Cruz, which also underlines the products, is painted exclusively in creamy white and brown tones. So if you’re planning to buy an Argentine ranch and make the interiors cosy then this is the address for you. www.costado.us

Argentina is a vast country with a fascinatingly rich culture, which is valued highly by its proud inhabitants. Stores like Arandú are proof of that. Over four storeys, in a side street not far from the famous cemetery of Recoleta, you can buy anything a real gaucho, landowner, polo player, steak lover or mate tea drinker could ever need. From leather boots, hand-finished belts and bags, ponchos, blankets, knives and the typical mate gourds, it’s all on sale here. One highlight is the antique saddle from 1930, decorated in silver and gold, which is up for grabs for a mere 13,000 US dollars.

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www.arandu.com.ar

Monochrome Bikes Cycling in Buenos Aires is not for the fainthearted – and on the roads it’s not always a case of survival of the fittest, as demonstrated by the cheeky, lane-hopping taxi drivers as they lock horns with the huge coaches with their stinking exhaust fumes. For cyclists, it would seem, there is no place in this city of speeders and tailgaters. But naturally a trend that is spreading worldwide won’t leave a contemporary city like Buenos Aires untouched. Either way, the guys at Monochrome Bikes on Rua Gorriti do their job so well that they have already been named one of the top three bike shops in the world by Wallpaper magazine. Monochrome bikes, individually put together according to the customer’s wishes, are their trademark. Hand-sewn saddles made of Argentine horse leather are the exclusive icing on the cake. And thanks to several recently created carfree cycling paths, the hipsters at least get to cruise through the cyclist-friendly district of Palermo on their Monochrome bikes. www.rewindbikes.com

Mio Avenida Quintana 465 C1129ABA Buenos Aires T +54 11 52958500 www.miobuenosaires.com

Mio Is there any better place to spend the night in a wine country like Argentina than with a family of vintners? We doubt it. Cristina and César Catena are relatives of the owners of the renowned Catena-Zapata vineyard and have designed their hotel Mio, which they opened in 2011 in the trendy district of Recoleta, accordingly. The imposing sixmetre-high oak door made of old French oak barrels is the first indication of what lies beyond.

Another design highlight is the free-standing handmade calden wood bathtubs made from trees already felled by a massive fire that blazed through the family estate in the Pampas region. All of the interior design items have been handpicked by the owner herself, who has a real sense of homeliness, together with her daughter-in-law Delfina Rossi, an interior designer. Thirty rooms, some of which are loft-like, and two suites with their own steam

bath and roof terrace offer plenty of space to relax and unwind from the hustle and bustle of city life. An indoor swimming pool and exercise equipment on the eighth floor, the 8th Spa, ensure that the opulent Argentine dishes don’t go straight to your waistline. Speaking of which: the restaurant, which is in the basement floor of the house, refurbished by architect Héctor Maffi, is highly recommended. Almost every dish incorporates a drop or

two of wine. No surprises there then! The seasonally-oriented cuisine is served with delicious home-baked bread. Sipping a glass of the Catena Zapata Chardonnay to round it off, you’ll soon realise that Buenos Aires truly is heaven on earth. 60 — 02/2015

Arandú

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BUenos AIres Service

Be Jardín Escondido by Coppola Gorriti 4746 C1414BJL Buenos Aires T +54 11 48346166 www.bourbon.com.br

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Honduras 5860 C1414BNJ Buenos Aires T +54 11 47781008

Home

www.homebuenosaires.com

On their honeymoon exactly ten years ago Patricia O’Shea, who hails from Ireland, and her new British husband Tom Rixton, wanted to seal their vows with a very special project that was close to both their hearts. They had noticed that in Buenos Aires, their new home, there were no attractive boutique hotels, something that was popping up all over the place in other cities. The South American metropolis was a real melting pot of influences and styles and this was exactly what Patricia and Tom had been looking for – a little retro, a little cutting edge, a little luxury. Despite this, the two of them were taking a big risk, especially so shortly after the big economic crash in Argentina. “It was a crazy idea”, laughs Patricia now about the beginnings of Home. They planned the refurbishment of the building themselves and also

designed the interiors. The lucky discovery of an old wallpaper stockroom was a key experience. The couple enthusiastically wallpapered and designed 14 rooms, four suites and two lofts – until no one room looked the same. Today the Home hotel is a design oasis in the centre of Palermo Hollywood. Not only the hotel guests but also the local Porteños love the small pool bar in Home’s garden. “We didn’t want our house to become too elitist, we wanted to create a meeting place for locals and travellers that still has an idyllic feel to it,” explains Patricia as she casts an eye over at the cat, which, as if on cue, is busy chasing butterflies over the lawn. A spa in Home’s basement offers firstrate massages and is an additional guarantee that guests will be able to recover wonderfully after exploring the city.

Be Jardín Escondido by Coppola A film project brought F rancis Ford Coppola to Argentina and a house in the district of Palermo made him stay. The director spent two years there, from 2007 to 2009, at Rua Gorriti 4746, when he was filming the family drama ‘Tetro’ starring Vincent Gallo and Klaus Maria Brandauer. After filming ended, he had grown so attached to the labyrinthine house with its garden terrace that he couldn’t bear to leave it behind. Coppola, who owns two hotels in Belize, one in Honduras and one in Italy, transformed the building into an intimate boutique hideaway in the midst of Palermo Soho’s hippest district. Four suites – named after his children Sofia and Roman, his wife Ellie and, last but not least, himself – two superior rooms and a studio for one were all furnished with items he had brought back from

Fasano Spa

his travels around Argentina. This personal atmosphere is palpable throughout the hotel, which from the outside is hardly recognisable as such. Everyone has breakfast together at a large table in the dining room. And the guests share the pretty garden and the rooftop terrace where herbs like verbena and peppermint grow, which are then served up as tea with homemade cakes at teatime. Overall, it isn’t the dark stylish interiors that make this house what it is: the staff are clearly very proud to be working in such a beautiful house, and truly treat their guests as friends of Francis. From time to time, barbecue parties are organised, so-called assados, at the custom-built grill. By this point, at the very latest, you will have forgotten that you’re in a hotel, and can sit back and enjoy the Argentine lifestyle to the fullest.

Although Buenos Aires has a lot to offer, peace and seclusion are not necessarily high up on the list. But Punta del Este in Uruguay is the perfect place for taking some time out: around 350 kilometres from the Argentine capital – a mere skip and a jump in Latin American terms – it lies on the other side of the estuary of the Rio de la Plata with long Atlantic beaches and idyllic landscapes. The perfect location to wash the dust of the city off your body and soul is the spa hotel Las Piedras, designed by Isay Weinfeld and belonging to the Brazilian Fasano Group. 32 minimalist bungalows nestle against the hills of a 500-hectar-property, forming a contrast to the rough, sparsely vegetated rocks behind it. On the highest point, the restaurant is perched like a crown, a composition of panorama glass walls and natural stone that Mies van der Rohe would have been proud of. Right below is the spa, a single-story, rectangular con-

Aramburu crete complex, the treatment, fitness and relaxation rooms of which are arranged cloister-like around a glass courtyard filled with cacti. From the indoor pool, which replaces the outdoor pool in winter, the view stretches for miles out across the pristine nature. Massage rooms, a sauna and a steam bath are available to the guests until late at night. Completely new to the spa offer, which is overseen by the Brazilian health expert Renata Abreu, is the exclusive detox treatment that lasts several days, and includes a comprehensive health check, fitness, relaxation and a nutritional plan tailored to your needs. After a few days of detox, well-rested, rejuvenated and feeling ten years younger, it’s time to head back to the nightlife of Buenos Aires. www.laspiedrasfasano.com

Small but mighty fine, Aramburu is one of the best restaurants in town. It has only eleven tables and a decidedly low-key feel with dark grey walls, some mirrors to add virtual space and a large wine shelf that suggests a well-assorted wine collection. A broad window grants a view into the neighbouring kitchen where chef Gonzalo Aramburu creates elaborate and experimental twelve-course meals with his young team. ‘Contemporary cuisine’ is how Gonzalo describes his approach. With curiosity and creativity, the chef cooks traditional Argentine dishes with an innovative new twist. After his studies in Argentina, Gonzalo headed to France. At the renowned Parisian École Lenôtre he fine-tuned his skills before going on to gain experience in Chicago under Charlie Trotter and the three-Michelin-starred Daniel Boulud in New York. Despite seven years abroad, he is still as young as they come: at 29

years of age, Gonzalo Aramburu returned to Argentina in 2006 and now feels he has what it takes to run his own restaurant. It is typical of the contrarian owner that he chose to open his establishment, one of the top 50 restaurants in Latin America, in an area that is not exactly renowned for being the most upmarket in the city. “I come from this area,” is how he defends his decision. He recently opened a deli as well, two streets along. And it was also in his unconventional nature to employ a young female sommelière: Agustina de Alba is the one to ask if you need advice when choosing one of the 300 Argentine wines on offer here. www.gonzaloaramburu.com 60 — 02/2015

Home

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Tegui

A further shining beacon on the Argentine restaurant scene is Germán Martitegui, the owner of the highly acclaimed Tegui. Last year, his restaurant was ranked 9th in the list of 50 best restaurants in Latin America, outranking all Argentine restaurants. Unlike his two other establishments – the glamorous Casa Cruz where it’s all about seeing and being seen in a nightclub atmosphere, and Olsen, a light-filled former train depot that serves up Scandinavian cuisine – Tegui is tucked away behind a wall of graffiti and a slightly off-putting security door. Just a small sign points to the gourmet temple that lies beyond. “I wanted to fly under the radar with Tegui,” says Germán, who is also involved in a cooking show as the star of the local restaurant scene. “Some people don’t like to be in the limelight – this knowledge is what led to the Tegui concept.” So the narrow, elongated room offers seating for only around four-

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires — Service

Chila dozen guests. The front and back of the location represent the two main poles of the restaurant: an extensive stock of wines at one end, and the open kitchen on the other. The ten-course tasting menu is truly breathtaking with complex chords of tastes and textures. The courses on the menu change often: Germán launches from one style to the next, from one continent to the other. The eight wines – all Argentine – are perfectly matched to the menus. And to stretch out the gourmet experience for as long as possible, we recommend taking a short break or two in the courtyard that is filled with jungle-like banana plants where you can enjoy the distinguished interior design of Tegui from a different perspective. Germán himself, a true multi-talent, was responsible for the interiors. www.tegui.com.ar

Puerto Madero is the most modern district of Buenos Aires. Shortly after the new millennium the old docks were transformed into spacious boulevards – its symbol is the shining white suspension bridge that was opened in 2001, designed by the Spanish star architect Santiago Calatrava, which spans the harbour. And it is home to another highlight of the local gastro culture: Chila is the name of the restaurant belonging to young top chef Soledad Nardelli that opened in 2006. Soledad, who comes from a large Italian family, had always had a passion for cooking and sharing mealtimes. After training in Argentina she spent a few years in Europe, including at the renowned Paul Bocuse College near Lyon. In 2009 she was awarded the ‘Chef de l’Avenir’ (Chef of the Future) accolade at the Académie Internationale de la Gastronomie, which really kicked off her career. The chef, who is now in her mid-thirties,

uses her acquired skills in haute cuisine with exclusively Argentine products. Close cooperation with her suppliers is a further tenet of Chila’s manifesto. On various travels that take her through her country, Soledad maintains good contact with her suppliers. After all, without top-quality ingredients, says the chef, she wouldn’t be able to stick to her own high standards. Her guests can choose to enjoy the finely tuned à la carte menu either with a view of the open kitchen or – perfect as the sun goes down – overlooking the harbour. www.chilaweb.com.ar

Fifí Almacén Luciano Combi is a lucky fellow. For one thing he has the perfect business partner in his mother Marta da Rosa, who takes care of the financial side of things, freeing him up to concentrate on other aspects of his work. And he is also friends with Horacio Gallo, a highly talented interior designer who has done a fantastic job of transforming Luciano’s ideas for a health food deli on a relatively small budget. A whitewashed ceiling-height wooden cube dominates the room: behind it is the kitchen, where kitchen chef Luciano concocts salads, soups, tarts and sandwiches together with his team. In the guestroom itself, which is light and airy, natural materials also dominate. Pretty, rustic wooden chairs and wooden chests and shelving that emphasise the character of the healthy fresh cuisine were chosen by Horacio Gallo. Local produce,

Don Julio where possible from organic sources, form the basis of the young fusion kitchen. Argentine, Spanish, Italian, Asian and Columbian influences dominate the menu. One highlight for example is the ‘Tokyo’ salad with Yamani rice, pink salmon, marinated tofu, onions, coriander, sesame and a teriyaki sauce. But the Italian-inspired ‘Roma’ salad with dried ham and buffalo mozzarella is also sumptuous and delicious. The eclectic menu reveals the basic idea behind Fifí Almacén: the chef, Luciano Combi, wants carnivores, vegetarians and vegans to all sit together at the same table, with healthy living as the common denominator. And anyone who is health conscious enough to turn up at the restaurant by bike will be rewarded with a 10% discount off their bill! www.fifialmacen.com.ar

Parrilla, chapa, infiernillo, horno de barro, rescoldo, asador and caldero are seven different ways to grill or cook the legendary meat dishes of Argentine cuisine. Even gourmets who have seen it all will start salivating at the sight of Argentine meat, before going into raptures about the best they have ever tasted. Of course there are countless places you can enjoy a juicy steak in Buenos Aires, but a few really stand out from the crowd. Like Don Julio, run by Pablo Rivero, who is continuing in the tradition of his parents and his grandparents. Both generations were involved in meat production, which inspired Pablo to open a so-called parilla (an Argentine grill restaurant) together with his mother, 15 years ago. And the Riveros definitely hit the bull’s-eye. Their spaciously proportioned two-storey restaurant on the corner of Guatemala and Gurruchaga is packed to

the rafters with meat-hungry guests every lunch and dinnertime. In the rustic interior the view falls first on the metre-long grill, under which a fire crackles. Half-kilo sirloin steaks, rib-eyes and tenderloins sizzle away in full view of the hungry diners. Pablo is always happy to provide a crash course on the anatomy of the cattle, their origins and rearing, as well as explaining what contributes to the excellent quality of the meat. But once the centimetre-thick steaks, which are as big as two of your hands, hit the cowhide-covered table, the utmost concentration is required. Because this may well be the best you have ever tasted. www.parrilladonjulio.com.ar

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Cool Cities / Buenos Aires — Service

BUenos AIres Service

He speaks thoughtfully, his sentences are well-formulated, his statements clear and emphatic, his anecdotes entertaining. There’s no doubt about it: Martín Churba is a professional when it comes to the media and has given countless interviews in his lifetime. Yet despite this, the mastermind behind Argentine fashion label Tramando still exudes a real passion for his craft. Martín Churba is lucky to know exactly what he wants to do himself – and what he prefers to leave to others. A circumstance that has allowed him to grow considerably over the past few years. Tramando Tramando was established in 2003 by Martín Churba, who originally started out as a photographer. His work firstly developed into collages and then patterns and prints for textiles. Today his playful textiles are famous beyond Argentina’s borders.

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‘Trama’ is Spanish for ‘weft’ (as in ‘warp and weft’).

Churba employs a team of young professionals who create clothing and decorative textile items in cooperation with other companies to sell in their own store. The label also runs its own laboratory for research on materials and the technology needed to develop them. Tramando distributes its products in Argentina, France, Spain, the USA and Japan.

Martín, your collection is defined in particular by its playful prints and textures. What’s the story behind that? In the beginning I didn’t make fashion, I was a textile designer. That’s where my roots lie. There were a lot of interior designers and architects in my family. My grandfather traded textiles from Manchester in the 1930s. My father, my aunt and my uncle were all designers. When I was 19 I worked in a silkscreen print factory – that was where it all started. Later I used techniques that are used in car spray-painting on textiles and began experimenting with unusual materials – rice as a resist technique, for example. So originally you didn’t want to make fashion? No, I was in love with the idea

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires talks — MartÍn Churba, Tramando

“with our own textile printing we can make unusual textiles out of basic materials.”

laws. Because of course in that case the Argentinian denim factories would run into difficulties.

Martín Churba

of creating ‘matter’, as I like to call it – a starting material. It fascinates me: sometimes the eye sees a texture, a structured surface, but the surface is an illusion – a so-called trompe l’oeil effect. Because when you touch the material you realise the structure isn’t there. And the reverse is also true: you see an image and when you get closer you realise that it has a threedimensional structure. My work moves between these two poles. That is the spectrum of my creative universe.

Without my people, without my team, in which every member carries a high level of responsibility, my work would not be possible. Trama also represents the plot, the action in a book. When we had the big financial crash in Argentina in 2001 and I asked myself how I would go on, and later, how I would convince people of my project – that is the plot of Tramando, the story. That’s where the roots lie. And also why, after twelve years, the name still suits my collection and working methods perfectly.

Where does the name Tramando come from? My work involves a lot of weaving and printing. In Spanish both those techniques are called ‘tramare’. ‘Tramando’ is the plural participle and describes the action of a group: we weave something, we print something, we make something. And the networked method of working that this term implies is currently a very strong social movement. We are connected in the internet, in communities. ‘Trama’ means net, grid, in the context of textiles: the fabric of warp and weft, and that’s exactly how we work here.

You implied that your way of working is very team-orientated. I have found a team of patternmakers and fashion designers who analyse trends for me and find out what our customers want. I am best left to developing our textiles. I focus on that, and am very involved in the collection development at the beginning and at the end. Between those two stages there are a lot of steps that I leave to my team. Did you have any experience before you founded your company? I had a company together with the designer Jessica Trosman

for five years. We were called Trosman Churba and were very successful in the late nineties; we sold to Barneys New York, for example. But it was difficult to keep up with international competition, we didn’t have the resources and the economic crisis was nearing. And because we were both very young and both had strong personalities we went our separate ways. At 32 I then founded Tramando. Would you say that the crisis was an opportunity for you? Yes, creativity always carries with it the aspect of rebirth. Every passing creates space for something new, that’s all part of the process. Does Argentina have a fashion tradition? Well it isn’t a quality seal in the way that ‘Made in Italy’ is; nor does it have a level of renown like ‘Belgian design’. And we don’t have the Brazilian industry or the manufacturing sites of China or India. There are no doubt better places than Argentina to develop a collection. You can’t ‘source’ here. Because I export, I can also buy my supplies in other coun-

tries. Working as a fashion designer in Argentina is very difficult. You’ll find much better working conditions and lower labour costs and also better quality materials elsewhere. But these restrictions also drive me: my creativity is challenged, because I don’t have all options open. To create a new dish, I prefer to go into my kitchen and look at what ingredients I can find, rather than going to a supermarket where everything is readily available. Can you tell us a bit more about the ‘restrictions’ you mentioned? Well, you can export anything – the problem is the prices. Because our money is changing value at a fast rate due to the inflation, it’s very difficult to keep prices stable. Many of our products are no longer so competitive on the global market because they have simply become too expensive. Importing foreign goods is regulated; you need a permit. If you, for example, are working together with a Brazilian textile manufacturer, you have to get all the papers sorted first. Then you have a time slot of ten days in which the textiles are allowed to be delivered. But if

the Brazilians are running low on stock and can’t keep to this time slot, then you have to go through the whole procedure again. That kind of bureaucracy makes it incredibly hard to source textiles from abroad. What’s your personal opinion about this policy? I do understand why our government passed these laws. A friend of mine told me about the opening of a store belonging to the American Forever 21 chain in Montevideo. They have a twomonth waiting list because the customers are so crazy about buying the products, which are of course also being offered at absolutely low prices. And companies like that are simply too strong for us to compete with them, and destroy the domestic market. So I do support the import regulations on clothing. But I don’t think textiles should be included. Although it’s a double-edged sword because if, for example, there is a bad denim season in Brazil and the warehouse is full, then the Brazilians will try and sell their excess stock cheaply to Argentina. There too I understand the protective

The question is, of course, where do you start and where do you end? Globalisation is a major problem for a lot of countries. That is a difficult question for which I don’t have a good answer. But I do see our problems. For examples I can’t find good quality textiles or materials with unusual textures because a lot of them are simply not produced here. That’s why we’ve developed a strategy for our collection: with our own textile printing we can make unusual textiles out of basic materials. We simply finish them ourselves in order to rise above the competition. That makes us unique. You’ve been running Tramando for twelve years. What has changed for you since the early days? I am 44, I still feel young compared to other company directors. Perhaps also because I decided five years ago to hand over the business responsibilities so I can concentrate on the creative aspect of my work. So you took on investors? If you want to put it that way, yes. In the sense that they invest their time and their talents. 80% of the company belongs to me, the other 20% to my employees. An inspiring business model! Thank you very much for talking to us.

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Cool Cities / Buenos Aires talks — MartÍn Churba, Tramando

BUenos Aires Talks MartÍn Churba

www.tramando.com

A nondescript door on a congested road in Buenos Aires. No name or sign betrays the fact that this is where Camila Milessi and Emiliano Blanco run their award-winning label Kostüme. The ‘bunker’ is what the couple call their company headquarters, intentionally awakening associations with Kraftwerk and the German electronic music of the eighties and nineties. And the collection really does exude this spirit: its sculptural, monochrome unisex garments are reminiscent of the avant-garde of the late twentieth century.

Kostüme The label was founded in 2001 by Camila Milessi and Emiliano Blanco.

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Kostüme is essentially inspired by art: pictorial tradition, cubism, abstraction, decorative art forms such as Bauhaus and Art Deco, and film directors such as Fritz Lang, Friedrich Murnau, JeanLuc Godard, Stanley Kubrick, Wong Kar Wai and Ridley Scott.

The patterns are graphic or have optical effects and are always conceived by Camila Milessi and Emiliano Blanco. They design the products, the packaging, the overall image of the brand and are also the commercial managers.

The two designers greet us clad in existentialist black. Equally black is Pele, their dog, the unofficial creative director, as Camila laughingly introduces him. But Pele is pleasantly restrained during the interview, just like Camila’s husband Emiliano. Every now and again he adds a comment to her detailed answers or laughs about her anecdotes. Camila is definitely the spokesperson at Kostüme, there’s no doubt about that. You are one of the most famous designers in Argentina. How did you start your business? We belong to the second generation who studied fashion design at the University of Buenos Aires. In 2001, we rented our first store in Palermo – there wasn’t much going on in Palermo at that time – and opened it on 8th March, 2001. I remember very well: it was a very hot day but everybody still came to see us. We were, of course, very small and nobody

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires Talks — Camila Milessi & Emiliano Blanco, Kostüme

“We want to make our clothes utilitarian and Comfortable.”

ces and colours that reference Bauhaus.

Ilona Marx with Emiliano Blanco and Camila Milessi

expected us to grow fast. But we were exclusive and people liked that. Now we have five stores in Palermo. So you stopped working in your former jobs when you started in 2001? No, we actually kept them for two more years – or even longer. We would do our regular jobs during the daytime and at night we would produce a few pieces for our own brand. We wanted to be really independent and to make only original designs that you don’t see everyday and everywhere. And we have definitely achieved our creative freedom. You started with women’s wear? Yes. But our customers changed that. Now, when we’re designing a new collection, we don’t differentiate between men’s and women’s. And when the models come – male and female – we let each of them try on everything. What do you like about the unisex character of your collection? We want to make our clothes utilitarian and comfortable. In

2001 the people I studied with at university would make their stuff so personal and difficult to use like couture pieces. But we don’t like this way of dressing up. We want you to buy something, use it for five years, then your sister steals it, wears it for five years and lends it to her husband. We like clothes to just be everyday items. We don’t like the unique piece that you use one time – like an item from a luxury collection. We make wearable clothes that people feel good in. You don’t have to be thin or tall – they work for all shapes. How do you set about designing a new collection? The first step in the design process for Emiliano and myself is drawing. Cora Groppo arranges and drapes everything on the mannequin. But the two of us do it all by drawing – Emiliano on the computer and me by hand. Then we work in teams: the sleeve team, the ‘in-touch’ team etc. We always mix at least three style concepts. So you could end up with a male Hollywood-style combined with punk influen-

How do you share the work? Oh, we do almost everything together. We fight and fight. Or should I say: discuss? Maybe, yes. We work together very closely, but when it comes to administration, talking to factories, negotiating prices etc. it’s mainly down to me. Emiliano is responsible for the images, graphic design and so on. He is a lot more into details and I’m always pushing and pushing. You live together. Is it tough to share everything? Yes. It’s difficult when you go home and still talk about work. Our friends do the same – they are designers or artists – and they have the same problem. That’s why we also try to meet people with different jobs, so we can talk about other things. For us it’s normal to be talking about aesthetics and the construction of clothes all the time. But fortunately we like the same things – that’s why it works. I see a lot of black in all of your collections, but the designs you showed at the last Buenos Aires Fashion Week were very colourful. Yes. In that collection we used yellow and silver – in fact for the first time. We thought about a late sixties, early seventies gymnastic, Jane Fonda Barbarella galaxy, but still unisex with strict men’s tailoring. For us, making

a collection is like cooking. We take ingredients from several sources and mix them together. And that’s the new collection. By doing this we get something unexpected and surprising out of it that’s really unique. We never know what’s coming next; it’s just like experimenting. Is fashion design an experiment for you? It is indeed, but it’s already the 29th experiment. And that takes courage. We have to pay the bills, the stores and we have a lot of responsibilities that we didn’t have in 2001. But we’ve found our way. Our customers are in the same headspace as us and can read our collections. Tell me something about the fashion business in Argentina. Is it difficult to win new customers here? And what about spreading your clothes across the borders? Here in Argentina it all depends on the moment. We could make an arrangement now, but in five months or so it might not be valid anymore. Reality changes all the time. That’s our karma. Here the law changes, the dollar, the weather…simply everything. So you have to be very flexible, right? Yes, that’s for certain! We started in 2001 and it’s still working. So we learned how to survive. Things will probably change again, but we are not afraid anymore. There could be an economic crisis here every

five years, but if you are wise enough you should be able to cope. Or you go broke and start all over again. What was the last problem you had to face? In 2003 for example we’d have ten clients in one day and then we had zero. When people ask me where I’d see myself in ten years, I answer: ‘Alive, I hope’. And that’s all I can say. Maybe we’ll go far, but we don’t know. You could always fail. We try not to be afraid, but when for example there’s a rumour that all the people who understand business will move to São Paulo, you do worry. In the forties we used to have a strong industry here, but each government in the recent decades destroyed it more and more until we had nothing left. So suddenly you had to know how to make the fabrics too, and not just how to sew them together. Did you ever think about leaving the country? Yes, we sometimes think about going to Chile. And if an opportunity comes up we might do it. The only thing you really possess are your ideas. I think if we are still together, we could do it. Would you miss anything here in Argentina if you went abroad? Yes, our families of course! That makes it difficult. Growing up here makes you the person you are. In Berlin for instance we would have had to deal with completely different problems.

The problems typical of this country have helped shape our personality. We could start again anywhere else, with different problems or the same ones. Problems will always be a part of reality. Although it is difficult to export, you also showed your collection at Premium in Berlin… Yes, we attended Premium in 2010. There was an area for designers from Argentina and we were invited. They liked the product, the style, the price, but at that time we didn’t have an office there. We learned later, when we went to Tokyo that we needed someone local to distribute our clothes. Is there a real Buenos Aires fashion scene or would you say that it’s too small? In 2008 we did a fashion show with only local designers. There were just twelve of us. From those twelve, now only five are left. Maybe we already have some new ones who are not that well known yet because they don’t have a store. In times of crisis the scene often changes and something new can pop up – like in 2001. I think in the next decade you will see more new fashion design. That sounds great! Thank you and good luck.

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Cool Cities / Buenos Aires Talks — Camila Milessi & Emiliano Blanco, Kostüme

Buenos Aires Talks Kostüme

Built up from scratch in 2003, Coragroppo is today considered one of South America’s top fashion labels. Cora Groppo, the brand’s creative director and mastermind, and Ramiro Lopez Serrot, business director and strategist, have always found new opportunities, even during decades of political and economical instability in their native country. And they are determined to carry on doing so, as Cora tells us during our interview in the sunny backyard of her shop on Rua El Salvador. Cora Groppo Born in Argentina in 1971, Cora Groppo studied fashion design at the University of Buenos Aires where she also met her business partner and husband Ramiro Lopez Serrot. After working for Argentine labels like Vitamina and Yagmour she launched her own, Coragroppo, as a joint venture with Ramiro Lopez Serrot in 2003.

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Her style is minimalist, with an emphasis on lines and cuts. Her talent for draping fabrics and her ability to work with different textures have led to some particularly elegant creations, but her fashions also have somewhat of a hip edge.

Coragroppo presents itself as an urban fashion label with two stores in Buenos Aires, one in Palermo Viejo and one in the Recoleta district, which was opened in 2006.

Could you tell us about the beginnings of Coragroppo? We opened our first store only a block away. I had made a collection to show at the very first Buenos Aires Fashion Week in 2001 and then started producing it. In 2003 I had the opportunity to open my first store in Palermo Viejo, which, in those days was just a small residential neighbourhood with lots of people, but hardly any shops; I was one of the first to open a fashion store here. Have you and your husband been working together ever since you started? Yes, Ramiro has been my partner in this business right from the start. He is responsible for all the administration and negotiations. He is my counterpart.

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires talks – Cora Groppo

state of unspoiled, wild nature inspires me a lot.”

Cora Groppo

What is it that inspires you? Who are your idols? The pure state of unspoilt, wild nature inspires me a lot, like the ocean for example, or wild animals: rhinoceros, elephants, and, right now, insects, which have an air of the eternal about them. They existed long before man and still do, almost unchanged. As I focus a lot on the structure of my clothes, the texture of these animals’ skins, horns or teeth give me a lot of inspiration. With its seemingly imperfect structures and irregularities, nature is perfect. I also like imperfection when I work with a mannequin, taking imperfections and applying them to my clothes. So when you create a new design, do you start on the mannequin straight away? Yes, most of the time I start working without a specific plan. I just like to take a textile and drape it on a mannequin that moves and turns and see what comes out of it. That’s why I do hardly any drawing. Preparing the shows is another source of inspiration for me because when I work towards a show I am making special things. I am free to do what I want and that’s great fun. Do you design special collections for the shows? No, just special pieces. Although

I don’t want to be too commercial for the shows, I still do them. Later I often find we can produce lots of things that we first made only for a show. That’s why shows are inspiring moments for me. They allow me to be unique. At what point in your life did you decide to work in fashion? To be honest I first wanted to become an architect. When I went to university they were offering fashion design as a course for the very first time. I thought it could be a great adventure because back then fashion, fashion designers etc. didn’t exist in Argentina. Has there ever been a moment when you thought it would have been better to be an architect instead of a fashion designer? No not at all. Designing clothes is a process you can start and finish in a short time. In architecture it takes forever to complete a project. Plus, fashion connects with many other disciplines such as art or architecture. When you prepare shows, you have to cooperate with stage crews, lighting technicians, and photographers. It’s very interesting to be always working together with so many other disciplines. What fascinates you about fashion and art?

For me, fashion has to have an intellectual aspect to it. In this respect I think and feel like an artist. Maybe when I’m older I’ll be an artist. I can’t imagine making clothes all my life. Are there any artists that have inspired you? I love art in general. I try to see every art expo. I’m always taking ideas from art. I like to work with artists. I think it’s a great idea that the designers always have to work together in teams with artists when preparing the campaigns for Buenos Aires Fashion Week. Are there any fashion designers you admire? When I was very young I was really interested in the Belgians. The first designers I loved were Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester. Then I discovered the Japanese names like Yohji Yamamoto. Another one I love is the American Rick Owens. Retail in Buenos Aires is very different from cities in Europe. You hardly find any multi-brand fashion stores there. Yes, there are some, but they bring more popular brands like Valentino, or Dolce & Gabbana; not the young emerging designers. But here in Palermo we don’t have them, so people have to buy

us. That is a great opportunity for the national designers, and helps you to start your own collection. That’s one of the upsides to being in Argentina. You can just start. I imagine starting out in Europe is very difficult. I used to have a store in Europe, but together with a partner. Where was it? In Rome; right on the Plaza España. I had it for four years. We sold to stores in Bologna and Milan and to some in France. My partners were a kind of distributor for Italy. But we’re not working together anymore because having a store in Rome just became too expensive for a brand that isn’t that well known. Although we do currently sell in Hong Kong. Does the exchange rate fluctuation cause you any difficulties? In the past it used to be an advantage but then it all changed. Argentina is not so easy. So what kind of problems do you have in Argentina? One of our main difficulties is that we can hardly afford to buy textiles as we don’t have an industry here, and importing is very difficult. I bring lots of textiles over from Peru and Brazil. Not from Europe because that would be far too expensive.

Are the import taxes very high? It’s not so much the taxes but getting the permission to import in the first place. Argentinian laws restrict the options to import in order to strengthen our own economy. At the moment we are hoping that the government will change next year and with it our business conditions. They were more flexible under the last government. Did Buenos Aires Fashion Week influence you a lot? Was it a big help for you when you started out, or do you think even without those shows you would have been successful? The Fashion Week shows were very important because in Argentina we neither had any fashion or lifestyle magazines, nor much interest in fashion at all. Starting ten years ago meant creating something like a fashion market for the first time. As nobody knew our work, communicating fashion was a key factor, too. Getting featured by the press helped a lot. How long have you been showing at Buenos Aires Fashion Week? For 10 years. I must have done at least 20 different shows – two every season. But because it doesn’t exist anymore we are now going to be on another platform.

What perspectives do you have? How can you expand? We just opened a new store! I have two: the one in Paler mo Viejo and one in Recoleta. That’s the Argentine way. Take Tramando for example: since the success of his label, Martín Churba has opened up several stores. The brands here are just local. We hardly export. So expanding means opening stores, which you either finance on your own or with the support of an investor if you can find one. And what about Europe? Kostüme, for example, received an invitation to Premium and showed in Germany. I also have international connections and I receive a lot of invitations. I’ve been to the White Show in Italy many times as well as to Tranoi in Paris. I’ve been to London, Madrid, Montevideo in Uruguay and to Columbia and Chile. I haven’t been to Berlin yet, but I’d really love to. It would be great to see you and your collection there. Thank you for talking to us and good luck! 60 — 02/2015

Cool Cities / Buenos Aires talks – Cora Groppo

BUenos Aires Talks Cora Groppo

“The pure

Taking A Different Route

Tobias Schröder Born in Hamburg in 1970, he founded the agency Handels kontor Tobias Schröder at the age of 23 whilst studying business management in his hometown. After extensive travelling, especially in the USA, he established the Khujo brand in 1996.

Tobias Schröder, owner and managing director of the urbanwear label Khujo, is in his element talking about his own company. It all started with a secondhand leather jacket from New York and meanwhile the label has developed into a

million-strong empire. In order to find out more about his mercurial rise during the past few years and the story behind it, we met up with Tobias Schröder for a chat at the Khujo company headquarters in Hamburg.

Mr Schröder, you founded the Khujo label all on your own back in the nineties. Today the company generates a turnover in the millions. What’s left from the early days? Back then, as a business studies student, I was really enthusiastic about the fashion business. Fashion had always interested me, but there weren’t half as many labels around as there are today. That’s why I decided at 23 to start a commercial agency for fashion in Hamburg and Berlin, commuting back and forth. At the time, shortly after the Berlin Wall fell, the city was just one big party. Sensational. I had so much energy that I started producing clothing from the agency itself – initially just leather jackets. In 1997 there was a real gap in the market. And an entire jacket collection developed from there, until in 2010, I finally had a complete collection for Khujo. It’s still exciting for me now. I work a lot, but what I get out of it at the end of the day is so much more satisfying than any hobby or recreational activity. So much attention to detail has been invested into the products and I can combine a lot of my interests and hobbies with my job. Working is still incredibly fun for me.

That was when I had actually decided to turn Khujo into an official brand and company and to take a commercial route. Until 2009 we just concentrated on jackets, but I don’t think a brand can only exist with just one product. You need to offer a complete collection with a whole lifestyle around it. Without a complete collection you will never reach an adequate brand value level in the fashion world. And on top of that, jackets are very seasonal. In a cold winter, business is good, but we have warmer winters or summers things can be hard. You are completely at the mercy of the weather. Again it was simply my enthusiasm that led to me producing a complete collection, even though I had no idea how to go about it and lots of people warned me against taking the step. Retailers in particular advised me to stick to my core business, but that was how it’s always been right from the start with Khujo. Everyone wanted to stop me getting into the textile business and generally warned me against becoming involved in fashion. But I always took a different route from the general consensus. Successfully, up to now. And when we presented the complete collection for the first time at our Bread & Butter stand all the doubters were impressed by the end results.

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Rumour has it that you returned to Hamburg from a trip to New York with a leather jacket dating back to the seventies, which served as the initial inspiration for Khujo. Is that true? The seventies were seeing a revival back then, especially in menswear. Men were wearing flares, boot-cut trousers or second-hand stuff. And labels like The Works or shoes by BASE were really in – a lot of those brands don’t even exist anymore. But back then that was my fashion influence. In all the trendy bars and clubs in Hamburg people were wearing oversized collars, pinstripe suits and block heels – and I was wearing my old leather jacket from New York which many people commented on. So I decided to get a new and improved version of it remade in Indonesia. It was a gap I was looking to fill without making big money or a profit. It was more about conveying my taste or an idea of it. Seeing my jacket in a store window for the first time was one of the biggest days of my life.

Brands & Brains — Tobias Schröder, Khujo, Hamburg

Khujo

Khujo concentrated on its core business of jackets for a long time, until you decided to expand the collection in 2010. How did that decision come about? In the early years it was just an obsession of mine. I would say the actual founding year of the company was 2001.

So you showed everyone they were wrong? Well, I wouldn’t put it that way. But my enthusiasm was enough to take me beyond the advice of others, to just do my own thing. Looking back, even though there were quite a lot of challenges, I would do it all over again. Apart from advice from colleagues, are there things or people that influenced you on your career path? To be honest there is no one that I want to imitate or who I could consider a role model for me. I found my own way, and at the moment we are working at carving out the special aspects and characteristics of Khujo. If anything, then I try to orientate myself on the original values of brands like Diesel or Replay, who brought me into the world of fashion and inspired my path, as they were positioned in 1987. The way the brands positioned themselves at that time is something I still focus on to this day. Coming back to the concept of the collection: how do you try to differentiate between the women’s and menswear lines and what characterises them? We don’t think the orientation should be the same with men

Brand History Khujo has been considered a fully-fledged company since 2001. Since 2010, in addition to the core products of jackets, the range has also included an entire women’s and menswear collection. After the increased expansion of knitwear, shirts and jerseys, outerwear makes up 50 percent of the label’s turnover. The market percentage for the women’s collection is 60 percent; the menswear collection is 40 percent. The menswear collection is set to triple in size by summer 2015 to keep up with the versatile women’s line. Currently there are around 100 employees working at the Hamburg headquarters, which were recently expanded from 500 m² to 2500 m². The creative team alone uses 1500 m² of the space. Khujo is sold in more than 1800 shops in Europe and Canada. The label does not have its own stores. Meanwhile the company generates a yearly turnover in double million figures. Production is carried out mainly in China, Indonesia and India, as well as in Turkey and Portugal. www.khujo.com

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Brands & Brains — Tobias Schröder, Khujo, Hamburg

Interview Jemima Gnacke photos Peter Lorenz

Brands & Brains — Tobias Schröder, Khujo, Hamburg

and women, which is why it’s also far from homogenous at Khujo. The Khujo man is rougher, masculine and vintage, something which we emphasised in the recent repositioning of the men’s collection. The women’s collection is more aligned with current fashion trends. We call it ‘modern vintage’. The jackets remain at the fore in both collections and we want to target a much broader range of customers. In the collections we are very clear when it comes to the core direction, but with the jackets we also appeal to a commercial level so, for example, a bank clerk in a small town could also wear them. So someone who maybe doesn’t live right on the pulse of fashion, compared to someone based in a metropolis. But with the women’s collection we take a clear fashion route. We don’t set trends but stay close to them, offering colour, pattern and textile variants. Despite the unusual breadth of our range, we can also go into detail. In that way there is something for everyone. Whether in urban or less trendy areas, without having to make compromises as a label at one of these points of sale. Behind all this is our finely tuned brand signature, which can be independently integrated into other brand worlds in a high quality. To strengthen the line and give it a new direction you brought Rupam Bhattacharya on board as Khujo’s new head of men’s design. For ten years he was responsible for menswear at the highly successful French denim line Kaporal. Before then we were achieving good results in this segment but not good enough to provide the market with the appropriate offer so that’s what we’re changing now. What perspectives does the menswear market offer Khujo? The fact is that there are few labels in the street fashion segment that are relevant and well-known – and which also work well commercially. We do something that no one else does. So the menswear market offers a lot of potential for us. Just to sum up: Khujo is aimed at various target groups, and consciously also at those beyond the hip urban cities… Exactly. A brand needs to position itself, that’s the way it is, and that’s why we are positioned in the fashion-trend segment. I see the ability to attract these different target groups as an art – our customers in the Harz mountain region are quite a different matter from a Berlin-Mitte crowd. Whereby of course the environment and store also has to suit us. It works the way we do it, and accordingly our collection is very large, so that, in addition to our fashionable core orientation we always have a broad choice of items that people can understand even if they’re not so wised up about fashion. And by this I mean items in our collection that would probably be described as ‘basics’. The zips, buttons and details are Khujo’s signature features. If the range is aimed at such a broad customer base, what is it exactly that makes Khujo unique? In general we have our own signature, born of my enthusiasm, which has evolved. It wasn’t about profit. But nowadays we have to operate under certain conditions, simply because they are demanded of you to be successful. The styling and the labelling have defined the successful Khujo style, meaning that many brands imitate us even to this day.

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Khujo is very strong in the independent retail segment. Is feedback from the individual retailers important to you? How do you respond to it? We do listen, but have to evaluate the feedback carefully. Every retailer has other ideas of how to run their business. The label itself can only exist as an independent entity.

Will you be planning your own stores or a Khujo online shop any time soon? That’s not likely. The brand has grown dramatically in the past few years and we are really busy trying to deal with this growth and look after it. Due to the demand, there is a new buying situation, which we have reacted to by boosting our employee figures. We have grown by 100 percent and within the last 18 months we have doubled our staff of 50 to

around 100. That’s why we are having to make a lot of new adjustments and improvements, which is really exciting. How do you explain this rapid growth? What’s your recipe for success? On the one hand you need to invent something that is unusual, that can justify its existence and works well. And on the other hand it’s important not to lose your DNA or sight of your roots as you grow. It’s important to preserve your own identity. Because all of a sudden there’s not just one person who needs motivating, but 100. Do you experience success as pressure or is it a motivating force? It’s definitely motivating, but that’s hard to explain in just one sentence. To begin with it was about having fun with a jacket, now it’s about maintaining a complex construct of a company that combines so many internal and external demands – and is still enjoyable. That is a challenge. Do you have a plan in place to ensure continued success? Growth isn’t everything. The company needs to be consolidated and we are putting the brand on a stable footing. The new departments and staff are the foundation for the next step, and that will be to increase the distribution and buying situation, on an international level. Which markets would still be interesting for you in those terms? At the moment Khujo is sold at 800 stores in 10 countries. Are you looking towards Asia and the USA? Not currently. But we are serving the Canadian market, which we chose on purpose because we can deliver the same quality and the same seasons there as in Europe. And, despite its size, it is a relatively small market, which carries minimal risk. We have been growing steadily there for two years now and can test whether or not we are in a position to launch in a new continent. Twenty years of experience in this industry have simply taught me not to take every risk, but to start by testing the waters on a smaller scale. We are always getting offers for expansion, but they shouldn’t be underestimated. Mr Schröder, you participate in many areas of Khujo’s production and are involved in many processes. You seem to be working around the clock… Generally, as a company director you should do a lot of the important things yourself. I have a ‘hands on’ mentality and the results often give me the energy back that I invested in them. I also genuinely enjoy dealing with all stages of the design process. If we keep developing this way, there will be plenty of space for that in the future too. But due to our sudden growth and the new challenges it is certainly a different level of working than before. The expanded framework of the brand has changed a lot of things. That’s why it would be interesting to hear how Khujo, especially in the sales, marketing and PR sectors, wants to see itself presented. Khujo should be seen as an individualistic and significant brand. That could be seen for example at our stand at the Bread & Butter but is also visible in the way we are presented by several of our retailers. The key now is to translate that into our marketing communications. This covers our homepage, points of sale but also the right timing as far as the communication is concerned, in order to make the brand visible at the right moment. We are on an evolutionary journey and are taking it step by step. Thanks a lot for talking to us!

CONGRATULATES

J’N’C MAGAZIN! PME-LEGEND.COM

What does the future of retail hold – and what about the retail trade of the future? What do tradeshows need to bring to the table – and who can still afford to participate in them? What do consumers know about brands – and what do brands know about their customers? These are all questions that the industry is permanently grappling with, and the brands providing clear and satisfactory answers are those who will most likely achieve success. For our 60th issue we spoke to 14 of the fashion industry’s masterminds and asked them to give us their take on the key themes of retail, tradeshows and the media. But instead of looking back, as is usually the case on anniversaries, we decided to look to the future. Read all about their visions of tomorrow on the following pages.

Gideon Day

Jason Gallen

A rt is t ic D irec to r at A i g le

P r e s i d e n t o f G l o ba l F a s h i o n at V i c to rin ox

What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? The fashion market of the future will need to adapt to evolving customer buying patterns and climates. The traditional fashion cycle of two seasons per year is no longer suited to our changing climate and no longer adapted to the ultra-connected customer. I think we will move away from the established seasonal collection system, shifting instead towards seasons that are broken down into a series of constantly evolving capsules.

Arthur Hoeld General Manager at A d ida s O ri g in a l s

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What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? It will become less predictable and more democratic. There will be less established labels and designers and more new ones who are ‘breaking the code’.

Brands & Brains — Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? They have to be able to engage with their audience and open up so they can continue to participate. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? They will be unpredictable, demanding, erratic, curious – and also attracted to what’s real.

What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? Brands need to adapt to consumers who are more aware and informed. They will need to establish a direct and more personal relationship with their customers and reach out to them in a proactive way, rather than waiting for the customer to walk into their shop. Brands need to become part of their customers’ daily routine to stay relevant. Brands will need to invite their customers inside. Find out what they want. There is no better way of understanding customers and developing the products they’re looking for than to engage with them. Brand loyalty is becoming increasingly difficult to establish and maintain. Brands that provide customers with the service they expect, when they expect it, will be on the right track. Tradeshows are like record companies – an outdated concept today. Just as bands no longer need record companies to release their music, brands no longer need trade fairs to reach new customers. Quality wholesale accounts are very rare and almost always saturated, so trade fairs are no longer economically justifiable. I think they need to reconsider their format and consider opening their doors. Fashion media is already more advanced in its evolution than the majority of the business, but still chasing the tail of bloggers. Printed fashion media will surely give way to digital, and in doing so will have to change its prerogatives from ‘advertising-based’ content to ‘subject matter’based content. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? The shopping preferences and habits of consumers are continuing to evolve, so the expectations and experiences brands offer have to evolve too. Consistent and compelling experiences are expected, and it will be the customer who has the power in the future. After all, they already have access to all the information and options before even stepping out of their homes, that’s if they even ‘need’ to in the first place.

What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? As much as the industry is constantly in flux, there are aspects of it that are constantly growing and others that will be around forever. Wearable tech has been a growing trend over the last five years as we continue to innovate and incorporate technology into our everyday lives – including our clothing. Consumers are looking for things that simplify their lives through their purchases, including fashion. Additionally, generational trends will continue, whereas macro trends versus personal style will continue to be part of the fragmentation of the business. As globalisation continues, fashion companies will need to be more agile and master their supply chain to ensure the highest quality and design for the price. Consistency throughout production will continue to be a challenge. From a media standpoint, traditional media will be forced to change, with the influence of the blogging community being the frontrunner for driving trends. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? The consumer is savvy and will continue to be more so with the growing access to information. The key for any brand will be to stay relevant for the present day market, while also staying true to the roots of the message. Communication will be key to relevance, but the mode of communication will continue to evolve. The connection to your consumer must be both on and offline and have a consistent message throughout. Brands will need to create opportunities for their core customers to engage and vice-versa. The customer should be able to express their desires and needs and the brands need to respond, as well as having access to the prerequisite information that allows them to ensure the right product is on the shop floor at the right time, while still surprising the customer in unexpected ways. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? I believe that customers will be loyal to brands that share common values, with a special focus on quality and value for money. Additionally, sustainability will start to play a larger role in brand confidence. They will continue to do their research and utilise the transparency of the internet to make the most informed decision. Because our lives will only continue to become busier, time will become the most precious commodity, making online shopping via smartphone the largest POS channel, with customers expecting immediate or fast delivery.

Jörg Wichmann C EO o f P a n o r ama E x h i b i t i o n s What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? Nothing will disappear from the market. The future is colourful and multi-faceted. However, ‘fashion’ will also be interpreted in a more personal way. We believe that individuality is the keyword for the fashion market of the future. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? Character, their own point of view, a vision. Brands, tradeshows and the media have to create relevance and added value in order to answer the question ‘Why?’ more clearly. Or even better: they should create emotions so strong that all other questions become superfluous and the ‘I want’ feeling overrides everything else. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? We believe that in the future consumers will continue to seek individual ways of expressing themselves through fashion and shop their way across all genres. The categorisation of the individual consumers into clear-cut target groups will become even more difficult. The customer of the future will dream of shopping locally but actually buy their clothes from all four corners of the globe, thanks to mobile apps. They will appreciate handmade shoes but choose to fly with Easyjet. They will follow a strict vegetarian diet but also smoke two packs of cigarettes a day. So the customer of the future is just as much a mystery to the retailers as they are to themselves – and therefore very hard to fathom.

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Brands & Brains — Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

Illustration Frauke Berg

Holger Petermann

What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? There are different influences that are currently changing the fashion market. Through the internet, for example, lots of new formats are emerging. Which means it’s becoming increasingly important to combine online and offline successfully. The interlinking of e-shops and bricks-and-mortar stores will certainly play a central role in the success of companies in the future. Apart from that, I think increasing numbers of niche suppliers will spring up who will speak a more emotional language to the consumer, involving them and offering complete solutions. I always like to refer to ‘Kochhaus’ as an example here, a company that offers cooking recipes along with the right ingredients in the right quantities to make them. In the same way, fashion can also become a type of menu. With all the developments and trends, one thing remains at the fore: interchangeable and nondescript offers will have an increasingly hard time on the market and start disappearing.

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What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? If you want success in today’s world you need to understand the customer, see the lifestyle of your target group in a holistic way and recognise current trends and incorporate them. Only if you know the needs of your customer and know who they are, what they want and in what direction they want to change, can you assert your position on the market. That also means filtering out relevant offers for the customer from the masses available and presenting them in a clear way. In the end customers need orientation. This applies to online retail as well as to the classical retailer, for brands, tradeshows and, of course, also the media.

Brands & Brains — Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

D i r e c t o r o f GDS a n d t a g i t ! , Messe Düsseldorf

How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? Due to digitalisation, the relationship between supplier and customer has changed fundamentally. That means that there is much more interaction and mutual influence taking place. Overall the consumer is becoming more demanding in terms of quality and expecting more and more input along with the actual product. That covers everything from trend information and production certifications to increased ‘storytelling’ that emphasises the emotional aspect. In parallel to the increased integration of the digital world there will also be a return to tradition and tangible products.

o w n e r & C EO o f T H IN K IN C C o mm u n i ca t i o n s Gmb H

Silke Bolms Marco Götz f o u n d e r & c o mpa n y d i r e c t o r o f D r yk o r n What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? The fashion market of the future will be an intermeshing of online and bricks-and-mortar stores. Shops that can in some way convey an experience – with a focus on service, location, individuality and the depth of offer – will assert themselves as a counterpart to online stores. Run-of-the-mill offers will disappear. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? Trends will continue to become even more diverse due to new media. Focusing on your own target group is essential. And a clear profile is a must! How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? In the future we have to bind the consumer to the products with even more emotion. Needs will be fulfilled online, instantly and around the clock.

C o - F o u n d e r & C EO o f S i l k R e l a t i o n s Gmb H What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? I don’t think anything will completely disappear. The stores are always going to be there and our beloved vintage markets are here to stay too. But the focus will shift more online. We’ll be able to start buying more and more on Instagram and Facebook directly, and the production time will shorten. In a few seasons we might not even have seasons anymore and the consumers will be able to make their purchases directly from the runway. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? Flexibility, an online affinity and a strong brand story backed up with authentic values. But the main aspect that has to be guaranteed is sustainability. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? Consumers will increasingly start asking where their clothes come from and how they were made. And the consumer of the future will make almost all of their purchases online. Here they’ll be able to virtually try items on, get advice, buy and also sell again.

What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? Online will grow and stationary retailers will continue to lose out. The online market is growing rapidly and has more than doubled in the last five years. Even if this impressive growth doesn’t continue, but levels off at around 15 to 20 percent, the online market will still be placing bricksand-mortar stores under immense pressure. Despite this, stationary retail stores will and must continue to exist. Stationary retailers can enhance sales with cross-channel strategies and, above all, focus on sales consultation and the emotive appeal of brands, thereby differentiating themselves. Basically that’s exactly what the consumer wants: being able to stroll around and browse the products, taking advice from the sales assistants, enjoying an experience that appeals to all the senses – and free choice when it comes to making a purchase. Wherever and whenever. Cross-channel strategies supply that perfectly. Whoever chooses not to take this path will soon find themselves lagging further and further behind the competition. The best example is Theresa and Mytheresa.com who came up with a cross-media concept early on. The online store handles the larger proportion of sales whilst the bricksand-mortar stores serve as showrooms. Well done to them! I personally hope that we will also experience a ‘city revival’, where online and stationary retail complement one another and retailers, multi-brand and concept stores as well as mono-brand stores also continue to define our cities and keep them fresh – and also that the vertical retailers and discount stores don’t take over. But to ensure this, the retailers need to rethink their selection of brands and collections, as well as a professional design of their retail spaces. Experiences need to start being offered again and, above all, the feeling: “I can buy something here that I won’t find anywhere else.” So the retail trade must recognise its core strengths, acting on them with confidence, conviction and the desire to offer something special. They should stop just offering more of the same. After all, whether fair or not: online retailers have closely evaluated what was being launched and working well in the stationary stores – and sold those items online with success. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? The aim should be to become unmistakeable. We are living in a time of enormous surplus. Due to the rather poor market situation in Europe many labels or brands are forcing their way into Germany with everyone wanting a piece of the German market for themselves. This inevitably leads to problems and we are experiencing oversaturation – also amongst the consumers. They are seeking security and brands they can trust and tend to stick to a strategy: either they buy based on the ‘cheap and cheerful’ principle or they focus on the quality and high standards of a brand. The brands that position themselves clearly in this respect

will no doubt have an edge. As will those who hold onto their own values, honing them every season and developing innovations. To this effect, the market will regulate itself, which will be painful for many. Those who prevail will either have a good budget to generate awareness and make an impact using marketing campaigns, or they will have to have their own DNA and develop ideas and products with their brand’s core values. Basically this is nothing new, but it’s a way out of the crisis, which is also reflected at the tradeshows. Bread & Butter buckled. But the value of the brand is still there – and now they’re getting back to their original concept by opening themselves up to new, exciting products by German designers. Which is very good in my opinion because smaller German designer labels should be getting more attention. And in that respect, the German fashion industry should have a bit more pride in itself and take a closer look at labels like Dawid Tomaszewski, Lala Berlin and Kaviar Gauche. As far as tradeshows in general are concerned: a clear distinction would be good for everyone – it’s not about size, but about having a clear understanding of who does what and also about sharpening your own tradeshow profile. There’s some catching up to be done here. It’s counter-productive to expect all buyers to attend every single event. Considering the huge number of tradeshows, brands and labels, we need clear distinctions, saving everyone time and allowing for a more streamlined way of working. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? Every customer is different, but all of them want an instant feel-good experience – that holds true of the past, as it does for the present and will continue to do so in the future. Of course it’s difficult to describe the consumer of tomorrow. Their behaviour will be freer, they’ll be less faithful to the vertical retail segment but still loyal to the brands they have discovered and which offer them added value: like status, respect, confidence, security and pleasure. A different customer might hunt down bargains because they have no choice due to their financial situation or simply because it meets their expectations. Some will only order online, while others will still enjoy strolling through the city and taking their time to go shopping. The bottom line is that brands, product managers, communications strategists and tradeshow organisers must have a clear understanding of who they want as customers and then give them the opportunity to decide, using suitable and clearly targeted communication strategies. That’s far better than hoping for a lucky coincidence and then wondering why a one-time customer doesn’t become a regular one. It would also be good if consumers had a change in attitude and took a closer look at what the products and brands are actually promising. For example, they should ask themselves how a denim garment can cost just 45 Euros. Here, the price they are paying is less authenticity and originality, more child labour and also production processes that lead to disease and allergies and certainly don’t have anything to do with an ethical way of life. Fashion can be fun and bring enjoyment – and that is something we should be willing to pay for.

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Brands & Brains — Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

Kirstin Deutelmoser

Brands & Brains — Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

Andrea Canè c re at i v e d irec to r o f W o o l r i ch J o h n R i ch & B r o s . What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? I think we need to look at the future in two ways and divide it into short-term and long-term. In the short-term future, over the next 10 to 15 years, I do not see many significant changes in the fashion market. People want to stay comfortable and in style. But from a long-term perspective I think we need to be aware of and prepared for potential adjustments to climate evolution. We need to understand what impact pollution, climate change and new migration will have on our society. I believe that the desire for comfort in fashion will remain, along with the need for apparel that provides high-quality performance and security.

How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? I believe that in today’s world we must be aware that the consumer’s behaviour and needs has the capability to change dramatically and very quickly, based on changes in the environment and society. For example, the environment where a consumer goes shopping has changed, and will continue to change, as people make more purchasing decisions from the privacy of their own home through e-commerce. Today I see a large focus on lifestyle wellbeing that has to do with the combination of food, health, sports and the environment and this has a direct influence on customer behaviour and style.

C EO o f R e p l ay g e r ma n y

Anita Tillmann C EO o f P r e m i u m E x h i b i t i o n s What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? In the past it was possible to offer retailers certain products at a minimal profit in order to sell them to the end consumer as a trend. Those days are definitely over. The fashion market of the future is transparent, global and, above all, digital – the end consumer is more informed than ever before. At the same time, fashion is becoming more individual, differentiated and emotional. This offers huge opportunities for everyone involved on the market. End consumers can be involved in all processes and are having more influence. This considerably changes the perspective and also the possibilities. If you don’t adapt and move with the times, the times will move on without you. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? In the future it will be more important to actively and creatively shape processes and to focus on what you do best. I am also convinced that relevant and high quality products, or rather relevant, well-researched content, partnerships and service-oriented concepts are a good foundation for success. The use of available technological opportunities definitely creates a competitive edge. Stagnation means being left behind, and in the mid-term this costs a company more money than investing in the future and trying out new ideas. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? As a result of digitalisation and the increasing transparency on the market, the consumer is perfectly equipped to compare prices, shape trends and, thanks to new technologies, even make products themselves. Technological developments will have a strong influence on consumer behaviour. Every consumer of the future will be driving a Google car and wearing an Apple Watch.

Klaus Schwitzke ma n a g i n g pa r t n e r a t Schw i t z k e Gmb H What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? As far as the retail trade is concerned, the trend is heading towards a greater separation of the retail formats. On the one hand there will be the retailers and brands that are all about value for money, while on the other there will be those that offer experiential lifestyle concepts. And it won’t matter whether they are online or actual bricks-and-mortar stores. The brands in the middle that don’t move in one of the two directions will disappear. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? The most important thing is to create a connection to the customers and to communicate with them. It’s about exchanging ideas and information, contributing customer-relevant content and being open to feedback from the communities. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? In Germany we are currently experiencing a strong shift towards e-commerce. Not all retailers and brands will have to rent expensive inner-city shop premises in the future; e-commerce offers consumers plenty of comfort when shopping. But in parallel to this (and also as a contrast), concepts pursuing the ‘third-place’ idea, which create emotive places where people can congregate other than work or home, are also gaining in significance. The deliberate decision not to use technical gimmicks or media in bricks-and-mortar stores is at the foreground. Ethical topics will also be elementary in the debate about future retail formats; consumer behaviour will become increasingly influenced by values and ethical principles.

What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? Clothing will always be an important part of our culture – buying behaviour, however, will change, or rather it has already changed a lot in the past few years. Consumers no longer just buy what they need as and when they need it; instead, shopping is increasingly becoming a leisure experience. That means of course that the specialist retailers have to take that into account, realigning their stores accordingly. Goods presentation and entertainment will take on a new dimension. And the sales assistants will play a significant role! What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? ‘Brand’ is a big word – there are new things coming onto the market daily. For me, a brand is only a brand once it’s been well-established on the market for a few years. A brand grows and develops – this process cannot be ‘artificially’ created. I think it’s important that you convey quality to your customers and that the customer also gets what they expect from the brand for their money. For me and for our customers, textiles are more than just clothing that keeps us warm. It’s more about an awareness of life, an attitude, and about what you want to express. Denim has always stood for rebellion or rock ’n’ roll, for example. A brand should set its own trends and have its own ideals. Tradeshows need to become more transparent in the future and concentrate a lot more on the fact that they are actually a ‘work platform’. In the future the media will be changing almost on a daily basis due to rapidly evolving technologies and I don’t know exactly what awaits us, but one thing’s for sure: I can’t wait to find out, and, as a brand, we’re very open to what lies ahead! How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? There’ll be different types of consumers: those who satisfy their desire to shop by buying as much as possible for less money. And then there’ll be those who see shopping as a recreational activity, but attach great importance to what the stores look like, what else they offer and how competent the sales assistants are. And then there’s the ‘online customers’ who try to make specific purchases. All they care about is what they want to buy and probably where they can get that specific item for the lowest price. I believe that specialist retailers will continue to be highly valued. After all, let’s be honest: isn’t it great to stroll around the city, shop at great stores, be inspired, meet people and perhaps enjoy a cappuccino in a nice street café?

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What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? In the future, brands must create content that respects brand integrity and that communicates what the brand stands for. The products must be carefully priced to provide value. And last, but no less important, brands must create retail spaces that represent the brand values and facilitate a real dialogue with consumers. Tradeshows must continue to provide support to brands by displaying the products B2B in an innovative way and creating a unique product environment that suits the collections. But in my opinion that is not enough. In the future, tradeshows could provide essential opportunities for retail by creating a platform for retailers to see and meet potential individual experts and companies that provide services to innovate, improve and expand apparel retail. For example, such an event could provide a platform for services such as visual merchandisers, window designers and manufacturers, and even florists, or it could create a jobfinding forum for the HR needs of companies. In the future, the media must continue to work together with brands to communicate values and contents. In addition, the media must interpret the passions of the day, such as travel, food, lifestyle and art, to transform individual passions into lifestyle trends. Traditional media must also work hard to differentiate print from digital. I believe that this could be done by adding content to print magazines to provide the visual and the tactical beauty that you cannot find online. There was a lavishly illustrated monthly magazine produced in the USA in the 1950s called GENTRY that provided an artistic and cultural approach to men’s passions and clothing communication by mixing drawings, photographs and actual cloth samples. This traditional American magazine provides a good example of the touch and feel aspect that I believe is necessary for the media in the future.

Thomas Wirth

Brands & Brains — Movers, Makers and Markets of the Future

Felix Staeudinger C EO o f P a n o r ama E u r o p e Gmb H What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? Online and offline concepts are both working better and will continue to gain in significance. At the fore here is a good service philosophy of combining online and offline benefits. i.e.: ordering online whilst still being able to experience the benefits of personal consultation or to exchange the goods at the brand’s bricks-and-mortar stores. This represents a huge benefit for the customer. In general, the service philosophy is going to become a higher priority. In difficult times in particular it is becoming increasingly important to build up close and trusting relationships with customers and partners. Things will be more difficult for multi-label providers in the future, assuming they become too similar. Only innovative and different concepts have the chance to grow and assert themselves against the growing vertical retail chains. The buzzwords ‘flash sales’, ‘off-prices’ and ‘outlet’ are going to become more prominent and continue to establish themselves – this is a market which still has a lot of potential. And I expect the textile discount stores to (unfortunately) continue reporting strong growth. But in turn, the topic of ‘sustainability’ is set to become even more significant. Because the environmentally-aware customers exist too: those who think about what they buy and make long-term purch ases, without pouncing on every single fashion trend they come across. The sector will grow, albeit more slowly than before.

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What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? It’s important to sustain brand values. USPs like environmental awareness and sustainability are just as important as the story and message behind a brand. Brands with a certain history and substance are coming out on top. Things could become difficult for brands in the mid-premium segment, which don’t have enough unique selling points and often have a rigid, inflexible structure behind them. Streamlined systems that enable you to react flexibly are more important than ever before. Mistakes can be sorted out more simply and therefore forgiven. Flexibility and speed are of the utmost importance and offer a chance of surviving this turbulent period. In today’s times, where trend cycles are rotating at such a rapid speed due to globalisation and the internet, people are going back to essential, traditional goods and products that are longlasting and offer a slower pace of life. Classics that can win out over any trend product.

How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? As a result of the internet, customers are more informed than ever before. While in the past the consumer would inform themselves in magazines and at the point of sale itself, today they obtain their information from online magazines, blogs, Facebook and other social networks. Retailers cannot even begin to respond to this deluge of information and trend products appearing from all over the world. They can no longer keep up. It’s more difficult than ever to fulfil the demands of your customers, and this poses a major challenge. In addition to the group of ‘hyper-informed’ customers, another two customer groups will start to take shape: on the one hand the classic fashion consumer, who, in our fast-paced times only consumes ‘fast fashion’ from the cheap, textile discount stores – for whom fast and cheap is the motto. And also the sustainable consumer who is very much aware of what they buy and thinks about it in great detail – high-quality, classic, traditional products that stand the test of time even after decades – and who is specifically seeking a slower pace in their everyday life.

Jürgen Konrad C o u n t r y M a n a g e r f o r G e r ma n y at Ne w B a l a n c e What do you think the fashion market of the future will look like? What will stay and what will go? As far as our field of business is concerned, the fashion market will influence the sports market in the sneakers sector more than ever. Particularly if traditional differentiation segments become increasingly blurred and the hybrid sector continues to grow. We see this hybrid segment – genuine functional sports shoes with a strong focus on lifestyle, for example in the upper materials – as being productive for both sides. This segment will continue to grow in my opinion, because people are aspiring to becoming healthier and exercising more. And if that can be ‘packaged’ fashionably, then all the better. What do brands, tradeshows and the media need to have to ensure success in the future? First and foremost, brands should hold firm to their principles and values whilst also being open to the future and the wishes of their consumers. Tradeshows and the media should offer the consumer a decent selection in order to help them find their way around the deluge of offers and new trends. How will the consumer of the future behave in your opinion? Customers who follow the mainstream will continue to exist. There’s nothing wrong with that, or anything boring about it. On the other hand, in my opinion a larger proportion of customers will be more watchful as to how brands are performing – in terms of their values, image, sustainability etc.

Bread & Butter 7 – 9 July 2015 Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Platz der Luftbrücke 5 12101 Berlin www.breadandbutter.com

Karl-Heinz Müller and his team are once again preparing for take-off at Berlin’s Tempelhof Airport. But this time they’re kitted out with a revitalisation strategy that is aiming to win back the confidence of exhibitors and the fashion community. With a combination of proven approaches and fresh ideas, Bread & Butter is set to soar to new heights. Bread & Butter Berlin is entering into a new round with an innovative approach and unbeatable stand prices. Karl-Heinz Müller definitely wants to prove that he is neither admitting defeat nor running out of ideas. On the contrary: the relaunch of Bread & Butter really packs a punch and

Starting over

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vwww.premiumexhibitions.com

New York, London, Berlin? How do we reach those who don’t live in a metropolis, but follow this lifestyle? What inspires them, how do they move around and communicate, what codes do they have, what clothes do they wear, what do they spend their money on and how do they spend it?” Müller and his crew want to provide answers and are dividing Bread & Butter into six brand segments: Contemporary, Denim & Urban Wear, L.O.C.K., Sport & Street, Superior and the Fire Department. Two hangars will be reserved for sales agencies and designers who can rent the ready-built stands measuring 10 to 120 m² – also furnished if they wish. And exhibitors who

Seek 8 – 10 July 2015

Standing on its own two feet

www.seekexhibitions.com

Only founded in 2009, Seek has meanwhile developed into an absolute favourite during Berlin Fashion Week. With its own DNA, it is regarded amongst fashion specialists as a must-attend

Premium Order Munich 8 – 11 August 2015 Munich Order Center MOC Lilienthalallee 40 80939 Munich

is by no means a second or even third rehash of previous years’ events. With the addition to the title: ‘International Tradeshow for Modern Urban Lifestyle’, the former leading tradeshow is once again taking place at the same time as the other Berlin fashion fairs and will be back on familiar terrain at its old home, the grounds of Tempelhof Airport, from 7th - 9th July 2015. The tried-andtested concept is being modified and finely tuned. And the focus will be on the service offered to exhibitors and trade visitors. According to the organisers, B&B has taken into consideration the following questions: “What interests the people living in the world’s metropolises, in Tokyo,

Arena Berlin Eichenstrasse 4 12435 Berlin

Seek has come of age and no longer has to present its brand portfolio on the coat-tails of Premium. Now that the tradeshow has its own profile, with a focus on menswear, Seek is meanwhile regarded as a real hotspot during Berlin Fashion Week – and the decision to move to a new location is therefore a logical one. A whole host of brands have already signed up for the July edition.

STATION-Berlin Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6 10963 Berlin

event in the German capital’s trade show calendar. The focus on menswear promises plenty of inspiration and the international brand mix in particular is generating interest: in addition to Germany the show is attended by labels from Sweden, the Netherlands, Great Britain and France. It was certainly a bold step for Seek to assert its independence last January and move into a new location – but the courage has paid off. Instead of remaining in the shadows of Premium at the Kühlhaus venue, they decided to relocate to Arena Berlin on Eichenstrasse in the district of Treptow. There is much speculation as to whether

the strong visitor turnout at the January edition was down to the near-breakdown of the Bread & Butter, people looking for an exciting alternative or the fact that many Seek visitors still had fond memories of past events. But one thing’s for sure: this new independence has proven to be a spot-on move and since then Seek has only consolidated its position as the progressive spearhead of Berlin Fashion Week. “It was the right time,” agrees the tradeshow’s CEO Anita Tillmann. “With 80 percent men’s collections, Seek is a source of inspiration for all menswear buyers and reflects the increasing awareness of

reserved their stand by 15th April 2015 are only paying 149 euros per square metre. Another new feature: fashion and lifestyle start-ups that represent this sustainable modern urban lifestyle have been specially selected by Bread & Butter and will be provided with space free of charge. That will enable the newcomers to network with experts and possibly find investors and sponsors. “The whole concept is viable,” agrees Christian Graf Brockdorff who, as the insolvency administrator of Bread & Butter should, after all, know. “The business plan is convincing.”

Berlin tradeshow Premium reported record numbers of visitors at its last event in January. This coming July the international specialist fair for high-fashion is entering into the next round and, as usual, Premium CEO Anita Tillmann will once again be focusing on new trends and tendencies to attract crowds of visitors and exhibitors. They couldn’t ask for a better start to the season: with a clear rise in visitor figures this past January, Premium Exhibitions celebrated their most successful event to date. The share of international visitors was approximately 70 percent. And the success is set to continue this summer! From 8th - 10th

Panorama Berlin 7 – 9 July 2015 Berlin ExpoCenter City South Entrance, Jafféstrasse 14055 Berlin www.panorama-berlin.com

men’s fashion.” In July too, a total of around 240 brands will be using the area of 6000 m² as a platform on which to present their collections to the public. The cool industrial charm of the Arena Berlin venue and the consistent design of the stands were already highly praised in January and the organisers are hoping to build on this success with the summer event from 8th - 10th July 2015. “We were overwhelmed by the positive feedback,” recalls sales director Maren Wiebus, who is already looking forward to the upcoming event. “We already have a large number of confirmations from exhibitors for July.

Panorama has something new up its sleeve to attract visitors this July. The primary aim of the new concept, entitled NOVA, is to offer inspiration beyond classic fashion collections. A trend laboratory will be presenting innovations from the worlds of beauty, art and technology – a modern concept that is sure to appeal to retailers in constant pursuit of new ideas. Bring on the summer! Panorama is refusing to rest on the laurels of its successful January edition and is expanding instead. An additional hall covering an area of 6000 m² will be added, increas-

In pursuit of the zeitgeist July 2015 around 1000 brands and 1800 collections will once again be presented on an area covering 30,000 m² at STATIONBerlin, and Anita Tillmann, head of the Premium Group, is already fine-tuning her perfectly curated tradeshow concept for the summer edition. During the past ten years, Premium has established itself as an internationally significant business platform for advanced contemporary fashion, bringing various fashion segments together under one roof. Womenswear, menswear, sportswear and denim are on show here, as well as shoes and accessories, with every label having more than enough space to present their collections. The clear segment

division and light, loft-like atmosphere of the venue at Berlin’s Gleisdreieck in Kreuzberg, is fun and inspiring, as well as being conducive to doing business. An atmosphere that is far removed from the stiff tradeshow atmosphere where visitors are only there to do business before promptly moving onto the next event on their packed schedules. To maintain the high standards, the Premium team travels around the globe every season, scouting the latest products, innovative concepts and ideas that reflect the zeitgeist. It is precisely this fashion expertise that makes Premium a must-attend event in Berlin every six months. There’s definitely no trace of the dark cloud hanging over Berlin

invoked by a small number of pessimists at the beginning of the year. Anyone who believes that the German capital is losing its shine from a fashion perspective should think again. Berlin is and remains the German epicentre for creativity, and this is not likely to change in a hurry. Aspiring designers, artists and musicians come together in this city on the River Spree. No other location is therefore more suitable for a Fashion Week with international flair. Premium Exhibitions is making a significant contribution to this and the response to the event in January proves that Anita Tillmann and her team are still most definitely on the right path.

without saying that zeitgeist topics are reflected everywhere in our daily life – which is exactly the knowledge gap the Panorama organisers are aiming to close. Retailers in particular, who are always on the lookout for flexible and inspiring solutions, will be grateful for this kind of inspiration. There are also plans to provide specially made NOVA capsule furnishings for possible pop-up stores. “Aside from the big brand presentations – which are our core business – NOVA clearly puts the focus on the product,” summarises Jörg Wichmann, Panorama’s CEO. “The concept

allows us to present relevant and also non-textile product innovations outside a collection context and big brand presentations.” And as far as the rest of the offer is concerned, fans of the classic Panorama event won’t be disappointed. Progressive menswear and sportswear, which was only increasingly brought into focus in January, will be on show at the Berlin ExpoCenter venue alongside ladies’ fashions, accessories and shoes. Plenty of summer trends for 2016 will be on show, meaning that nothing stands in the way of a successful season. And there will be no shortage of inspiration, that’s for sure.

Tradeshows – Premium Exhibitions, Berlin & Panorama, Berlin

Premium 8 – 10 July 2015

Supernova ing the total exhibition space to around 45,000 m². NOVA will be taking its place on the first floor, which was exclusively reserved for ‘Urban up’ in winter. A sort of trend lab is planned here, the main aim of which is to inspire retailers with new concepts. The NOVA area sees itself as a “zeitgeist collage of the most diverse trends and disciplines”. Categories like beauty and wellness, art and music, but also technology and information are set to be integrated into a concept-store world. But if you don’t see the link to fashion here, you must be out of touch. After all, it goes

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Tradeshows – Bread & Butter, Berlin & Seek, Berlin

All following TEXTs: Gerlind Hector

Tradeshows – GDS, Düsseldorf & The Gallery, Düsseldorf

GDS 29 – 31 July 2015 Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Stockumer Kirchstrasse 61 40474 Düsseldorf www.gds-online.de

What will we be wearing on our feet in summer 2016? Answers to this question will be provided at the July edition of GDS where professional shoe fans can look forward to plenty of inspiration and a well-organised programme of accompanying activities. Following the successful launch of the new tradeshow concept, the organisers have everything covered. Both the organisers and the visitors agree that modifying the concept was the right move. Last July the Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories, or GDS for short, took place earlier than usual in Düsseldorf. But, as previously feared, this change to the schedule didn’t jeopardise

Boots, brogues and business the international flair of the show in any way. Kirstin Deutelmoser, director of GDS and also tag it!, which is on at the same time at Düsseldorf’s exhibition grounds and is specialised in private labels, is also confident about the upcoming event that will be taking place from 29th - 31st July 2015: “Our timing is perfect because at the start of the season the customers are open to new ideas, which makes us especially valuable as an information platform.” More visitors attended the February event than in July 2014, and most of them did in fact come to actively network and find out about the latest collections. Even by the afternoon of the second day around 60 percent of the

visitors stated that they had already ordered or would be doing so soon. Around 900 brands exhibited at GDS, and there were around 160 exhibitors at tag it!. And the ‘Design Trendsetter’ project, in which 20 international designers previously selected by a jury will occupy a large area of around 1000 m² within the STUDIO World, is sure to be a real highlight in July too. And visitors can look forward to a varied programme of accompanying events: from the spectacular opening party – with everyone already wondering who, after Beth Ditto and Kiesza, will be providing the musical entertainment this time – down to fashion shows and various activities that allow a glimpse behind the scenes of

production procedures. Current trends will of course be the topic of choice in talks and discussions, part of the tradeshow that is always valued highly, especially by the retailers. And shoe fanatics who don’t happen to be industry professionals will be happy to hear that part of the exhibition area will once again be open to the general public. There will be live events and visitors will even have the chance to purchase vintage footwear.

divided into three areas, one of which, the Gold Area, is mainly reserved for international premium labels, previously on show in the Hammer Hallen venue. The integration of these important exhibitors into the main location on Cecilienallee was, according to the organising Igedo Company, the next logical step of the tradeshow concept, and, beyond the order event, several brands will also be using the ‘Botschaft’ as a showroom. Visitors to the Silver Area will find contemporary fashion and design-oriented brands. The increasingly popular accessories sector will be rounding off The Gallery portfolio and can be found in the White Area.

The topic of centralisation is also set to play an important role in the upcoming event which is taking place from 24 until 27 July 2015. This will allow retailers to view countless collections in a short time and also place orders promptly, according to the organisers. Overall, an appealing mix should be shown in Düsseldorf, which doesn’t rule out bridal and evening wear, which visitors will find in the ‘Red Carpet’ area, located as usual in the Rheinlandsaal of the Hilton Hotel on Georg-Glock-Strasse – this time from 26th - 28th July and therefore on different days of the week than usual: from Sunday to Tuesday.

The Gallery Düsseldorf 24 – 27 July 2015 Botschaft Cecilienallee 5 40474 Düsseldorf Red Carpet 26 – 28 July 2015 Rheinlandsaal, Hilton Hotel Georg-Glock-Strasse 20 40474 Düsseldorf www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

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Düsseldorf can look back on a fashion tradition spanning many decades; a legacy that isn’t likely to be forgotten in a hurry. Instead of glitz and glamour and finding an excuse to party, here it’s all about professionals doing business. The organisers of The Gallery are concentrating on their former strengths, something which quite a few industry insiders are grateful for.

The Gallery in Düsseldorf not only sees itself as an order platform, but primarily as an important industry get-together. Every six months, the atmosphere is highly professional here by the Rhine River, with a perfect ser-

Getting down to WORK vice package being offered to the high-carat exhibitors. Business is very clearly at the foreground, rather than superficial mingling and air-kissing. The tradition and down-to-business attitude of the Rhine metropolis is far too deeply ingrained to be affected by fleeting fashion hypes. The focus is therefore on value and experience; a decision that plenty of industry professionals are thankful for. However, this doesn’t mean that they’re not open to new ideas! In order to upgrade the overall concept of the show, a restructuring strategy was put in place just a few months ago: the ‘Botschaft’ venue on Cecilienallee was

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Tradeshows – Munich Fabric Start/Bluezone, Munich & Denim by Première Vision, Barcelona

Munich Fabric Start 1 – 3 September 2015 Bluezone 1 – 2 September 2015 Munich Order Center MOC & Zenith Hall Lilienthalallee 40 & 29 80939 Munich www.munichfabricstart.com

Bluezone is regarded as an absolute highlight within Munich Fabric Start, the international tradeshow for fabrics, accessories and trims. Here, where weavers, washers and textile finishers present their portfolios, the denim and sportswear community will find everything their hearts desire. And Bluezone organiser Sebastian Klinder ensures there is no shortage of inspiration and innovation when it comes to the world’s most famous cotton twill. As a show-in-show concept during Munich Fabric Start, Bluezone is gaining in importance with every event. The subtle separa-

In the blue zone tion in the Zenith Hall is being particularly well received by the die-hard denim community. In February alone, when Bluezone was presenting a ‘best in the industry’ under the motto ‘Denim Extremes’, ten new exhibitors were added to the list. This means a total of 80 different textile manufacturers, launderers and finishers were in attendance to present their latest products and innovations. “The event was once again an allround success,” confirmed Panos Sofianos, creative director at the Spanish company Tejidos Royo. “In our opinion, this is the most professional denim show and right on point.” With a balanced

mix of business, communication and feedback, Bluezone is a real inspiration every time. The upgraded accompanying programme of events, which won’t be falling short this September either, is receiving particularly high praise from the visitors. In February there was a denim think-tank on the ‘Blue Stage’ led by Monsieur-T., the ‘International Studio for Denim & Bottoms’ from Paris. For over 25 years the French studio has been exclusively committed to the indigo fabric, covering all production steps from trend analysis to final production. The exclusive denim art exhibition ‘Nadel & Pen’ also met with a

Denim by Première Vision 27 – 28 May 2015 Fira de Barcelona, Hall 8 Montjuïc Exhibition Centre Avda. Reina Maria Cristina, s/n 08004 Barcelona www.denimpremierevision.com

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The stars are aligning perfectly for the denim industry. No other fabric regularly offers so many innovations and inspires so much desire. The team behind Denim by Première Vision have therefore chosen a motto for their upcoming event that radiates star quality and future-oriented visions: Constellation!

Outer space – endless space! The bold team behind Denim by Première Vision is reaching for the stars and proving a sense of far-sightedness and visionary attitude with their new ‘Constellation’ theme. In Barcelona, where the international jeans tradeshow presents its latest accom-

plishments, the brains behind the event have understood that the most coveted fabric in the world demands a grand setting. Which is no problem, thanks to the chosen venue on the grounds of the Fira de Barcelona that replaced Paris as a location around a year ago. In Hall 8 of the Montjuïc Exhibition Centre, a large number of the industry’s fixed stars will be vying for the attention of interested trade visitors and presenting their latest indigo innovations from 27th - 28th May 2015. The list includes around 100 textile manufacturers, launderers and finishing experts, but also trimming and fibre producers as well as

technology professionals. With this much specialist knowledge shining in one place, a supernova feeling is sure to be palpable. But the famous final stellar explosion at the end of a star’s lifetime is not something we’re likely to experience at Denim by Première Vision. Because the jeans sector is booming – complaints about revenue losses or stagnating markets are seldom heard from the denim camp. “Interesting opportunities arise everywhere,” knows Cüneyt Yavuz, CEO of Mavi. “But you have to be dynamic and constantly adapt yourself to the different market situations.” So stagnation is the last thing the

good response, which bodes well for a follow-up event in September. Customisation and craftsmanship were at the focus here; two important disciplines, which are undoubtedly also gaining in relevance in the denim industry, which is commonly associated with mass production. The same applies to the topic of saving resources, which, in view of the increasingly extravagant denim finishing options available, should not be ignored. For anyone in the industry who wishes to combine environmental protection with cool denim style whilst cultivating business contacts, Bluezone is the place to be.

Cool constellationS organisers of Denim by Première Vision are expecting. Since the fair was established in 2007 it has been steadily ascending; especially in terms of visitor numbers. This no doubt has a lot to do with the fact that, in addition to the extensive portfolio of exhibitors, there are always exciting panel discussions, informal get-togethers and plenty of choice as far as the culinary offer is concerned. Here, in the Catalonian capital, as the last two editions of Denim by Première Vision have proven, visitors are likely to get just as starry-eyed about the city as they are about denim.

CONTEMPORARY FASHION TRADE SHOW

SPR IN G / SU M M ER 2 0 1 6 AREN A BERL IN

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Tradeshows – Jacket Required, London & Revolver, Copenhagen

Jacket Required 29 – 30 July 2015 The Old Truman Brewery 91 Brick Lane London E1 6QL www.jacket-required.com

The Old Truman Brewery in East London offers plenty of room for the exhibitors of the international menswear tradeshow Jacket Required that takes place here twice a year. And the brands it presents are a lot less formal than the name may suggest. This is the event to attend if you have a sense of style that goes beyond the mainstream. If you want to see men with sophistication, charm and charisma, you’ll definitely find them at Jacket Required where the mix of classic and eccentric is highly praised every season. The British answer to Milan’s Pitti Uomo is a

real must-see for all dedicated male followers of fashion. And all those non-professionals who aren’t granted access can at least admire the many streetstyle pics that are snapped around the Old Truman Brewery during the two-day event, before appearing shortly afterwards in countless fashion blogs. Established just a few years ago, in 2011, after a location change Jacket Required is now wellestablished with its exciting brand mix of established brands and interesting newcomers, and is regarded as one of the best tradeshows in the menswear segment. Around 200 exhibi-

tors show their menswear, shoes and accessories collections in the traditional old building on Brick Lane in trendy Shoreditch, and the throng of professional visitors is set to be just as big this time around. The spacious building with its two floors and skylights is the perfect backdrop for the styles of summer 2016. The growing interest in handmade clothing and leather goods promises an exciting future for menswear, which will also be reflected in the collections of the exhibitors. New workwear and denim inspirations, which really are raw and authentic – instead of merely looking like they are –

Dressed to the nines were already a major draw at the winter event of Jacket Required. The portfolio will always remain in touch with the times and is set to offer plenty of inspiration on 29th and 30th July 2015 too. Craig Ford, one of the fair’s initiators, is all too aware of the importance of a good mix and variety. Throughout the whole year he and his team are on the lookout for outstanding styles that give menswear new impetus: “We like to show a diverse range of brands from all categories and different areas of the market, instead of just pushing one look.”

Revolver 5 – 7 August 2015 Revolver Fish Market District Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A Copenhagen SV Revolver Meatpacking District Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk

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Time for a shake-up! Copenhagen Fashion Week is enticing the fashion pack with its young platform Revolver, which offers an ideal mix of Scandinavian designer labels and selected denim brands. The August 2015 edition will show whether the Danish repositioning is also well received in the longer term.

Copenhagen Fashion Week is experiencing a phase of upheaval and, following some disagreements, has meanwhile repositioned itself. Since the demise of CPH Vision and Gallery Copenhagen, the territory has been newly distributed and, alongside CIFF and CIFF Raven, Revolver in particular has been attracting high levels of praise – thanks to a

Armed and ready well-assorted mix of Danish designer labels like Henrik Vibskov, Asger Juel Larsen and Stine Goya alongside selected premium and denim labels. With the two different venues, in the Fish Market District and the Meatpacking District, the organisers are optimistically looking towards the summer 2016 trends, which will be presented here in the Danish capital from 5th - 7th August 2015. The Øksnehallen location has already received positive feedback. But it remains to be seen whether this arrangement will continue in the long term because the portfolio shown in the Fish Market District was criticised, at least by the retailers, as being somewhat too commercial.

The numbers were down slightly for the January edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week compared to previous seasons, but the organisers are confident that the new strategy will pay off in the long term. And this is also confirmed by David Keogh, marketing and sales manager of the British label Maharishi: “Sure, some days were quieter than at other tradeshows. But the right people from the retail sector and the press were in attendance.” Revolver is the brainchild of the former Gallery Copenhagen partner Christian Maibom and CPH Vision founder Jan Carlsen. The two fashion experts wanted to create a unique platform for men’s and ladies’ clothing which isn’t restricted to local

design talents, but has a focus on collections that really get the fashion world moving forward. The local touch, which the international fashion pack in particular really appreciate about Copenhagen, will hopefully remain. The understated Scandinavian style and their flair for minimal looks that are never boring are regarded as typical. And the fact that a city with just over half a million inhabitants can be home to so much creativity and positive lifestyle will once again be lifting the mood of the professional visitors and exhibitors at Copenhagen Fashion Week this summer.

Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 8 1078 GZ Amsterdam www.modefabriek.nl

Amsterdam’s Modefabriek is more than just a mere ordering show. Presented here are future visions of the fashion industry that are in keeping with the times and the changing consumer behaviour. Here, sustainable production, environmental awareness and fairness in manufacturing processes are just as important as street cred and style. The tulips will have long since been in bloom by the time Modefabriek welcomes guests to the most important tradeshow of the Benelux countries this July. But there will be no shortage of inspiration for aesthetes and fashion fanatics because twice a year the focus here in

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Tradeshows – Modefabriek, Amsterdam & Selvedge Run, Berlin

Modefabriek 12 – 13 July 2015

Denim makers on a mission Amsterdam is on forms, colours and cuts. Menswear and womenswear, not to mention a whole host of accessories and shoes, will be on show at Modefabriek, and retailers who want to know what their possible bestsellers will be in summer 2016 should definitely drop by. The brand portfolio of the denim squad, which is now being relocated to the Blueprint area, is particularly impressive: this is where visitors will find leading brands such as Kings of Indigo, G-Star, Kuyichi and Nudie Jeans. Lots of labels who have their jeans sustainably produced will also be in attendance, having understood that consumers are now very much aware of their own power and more likely to ask

questions when they are making a purchase, such as where the goods come from or how they were produced. Dutch label Kuyichi is regarded as a pioneer of the ‘organic revolution’, putting ethics, human dignity and fair trade on an equal footing with style and coolness. Could this be down to the world’s first independent ‘Jean School’, which was established in 2012 in Amsterdam – and the huge support provided by Modefabriek? It seems pointless to speculate about which Amsterdam institution is leading the way in terms of innovation – whether tradeshow or university. It’s important that the organisers of Modefabriek align their focus to future visions, paired with a high level of service

Selvedge Run 8 – 10 July 2015 Reinbeckhallen Reinbeckstrasse 9 12549 Berlin www.selvedgerun.com

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With its refreshing concept, new tradeshow Selvedge Run will be making its debut on the Berlin Fashion Week scene this July. The organisers, three Berlin industry insiders with an appreciation for authenticity, are committed to fashion with longevity rather than short-term trends. With their idea of ‘Today, Tomorrow, Forever’ they have already enticed several noteworthy brands.

“Let’s bring together what belongs together” isn’t often heard in the world of fashion and lifestyle. But this is exactly what the brains behind Selvedge Run, who will be launching their new

tradeshow this July, have committed themselves to doing. The chosen venue, the Reinbeckhallen, is located slightly away from the hustle and bustle of Berlin Fashion Week, geographically almost right in the middle between the city and the Grosser Müggelsee lake in the south-east of Berlin. The aim of the show is to reflect the zeitgeist with an excellently curated portfolio which should have a crowd-pulling effect on the targeted retailers. After all, only high-quality denim and heritage brands will be presenting their collections at Selvedge Run, where the focus will be on getting people excited about authenticity and

fashion with character. And a number of top brands, which in the early days used to exhibit in the L.O.C.K. Area of Bread & Butter, already signed up this past winter. The list of exhibitors is regularly being updated and includes names like Nudie, Japan Blue, Edwin, Tellason, Indigofera and Stetson. The concept is coherent and the exhibitors who have been approached so far seem to be convinced. After all, the organisers of Selvedge Run are no unknown names: Maria Klähn and Shane Brandenburg are perfectly networked, partly due to their Berlin store Burg & Schild on RosaLuxemburg-Strasse, which has its

for the professional visitors and exhibitors in the spacious location right next to Amsterdam’s Beatrixpark. The best proof of the futureoriented character of the fair is possibly MINT, the platform for fashion and lifestyle products, which sees environmentallyfriendly and fair-trade conditions as a must in the textile industry. And along these lines the Dutch designer Hans Ubbink, who was presenting two ‘green’ labels at the January event of Mode fabriek, found the right words for aspiring young talents: “Don’t think ‘I have to design something sustainable’; think ‘make something beautiful’, and do that in the most sustainable way possible.”

In the starting blocks eye on a similar target group as Selvedge Run. Andreas Becker is another of the co-founders and is well-known in the Berlin hotel business. Under the name The Circus, Becker and his staff run a hostel, a hotel and apartments in Mitte, which all share a similarly authentic approach with the new tradeshow. And who better to ask for a statement to sum up their concept than the three organisers: “Our aim is to be a showroom and a platform for brands that don’t want to be part of the Primark trend. For brands that don’t follow trends and are against the throw-away culture of our consumer society.”

All importAnt trends. All strong brAnds. in A first-clAss environment.

Knitted sweater Lala Berlin Bermuda shorts Weekday Necklace & Other Stories

Dungarees Each X Other Shirt Uniqlo Nose ring & ring Vibe HarslĂ¸f Socks Falke Shoes Lika Mimika

Jasmin Shirt By Malene Birger Culottes Malaikaraiss Nose ring Vibe Harsløf

Andrea Shirt Joseph Trousers Stills Necklace Malaikaraiss

Denim jacket BLK DNM Neck cuff Stylist’s own Nose ring Vibe Harsløf

Photography Leo Krumbacher, krumbacher.net Styling Josepha Rodriguez Hair Hauke Krause / Kult Artists using products by Aveda Make-up Carolin Jarchow / Nina Klein Agency using products by Chanel Models Andrea / M4 Models and Jasmin / Place Models Post-production Retouched Studios

Sweater Hien Le Blouson Malaikaraiss Trousers Closed Nose ring & ear cuff Vibe HarslĂ¸f

Dress Weekday Bangle By Malene Birger Socks Falke Shoes Palladium

Jacket Our Legacy Sweatshirt Velvet Trousers Matthew Miller

Jumpsuit Christopher RĂŚburn Boots Dr. Martens Sunglasses Triwa

Shirt Soulland

Shirt & trousers Baartmans and Siegel

Jacket Matthew Miller T-shirt Neuw Trousers Baartmans and Siegel Socks American Apparel Shoes Weejuns

See more Fashion ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

Suit & T-shirt Our Legacy

Photographer Gunnar Tufta gtufta.com Stylist Karen Munnis Grooming Oscar Alexander Lundberg Model James Phillips / Storm

Jacket & shirt Edwin Jeans Neuw

See more Fashion ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

T-shirt PAUL SMITH Shirts olebar brown Jacket caruso

Shirt & pocket square Caruso Pullover Versus Versace Jacket Scotch & Soda Suit Tiger of Sweden Bow-tie Hackett

Pullover, blouson jacket & trousers Versus Versace Coat Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Glasses IC! Berlin

T-shirt worn around the waist Weekday Blazer & blouson jacket Scotch & Soda Trousers & braces Caruso Shoes Bally Glasses Dior Homme

Shirt, trousers & necklace Versus Versace Pullover & shoes Armani

Shirts Ted Baker Pullover Alexander McQueen Jacket Paul Smith Trousers Versus Versace Belt Hackett Socks Falke Shoes Navyboot

Shirt & tie Herr von Eden Waistcoat Filippa K Jacket Paul Smith Shorts Orlebar Brown Leggings Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Socks Merz b. Schwanen Shoes Ecco

Light shirt Herr von Eden Dark shirt COS Jacket Henrik Vibskov Blazer Versus Versace Trousers Calvin Klein Shoes Dr. Martens

Photography Christian Steinhausen, christiansteinhausen.com Styling Adelaida Cue B채r / Nina Klein Agency Hair and make-up Jazz Mang / Basics Berlin, using products by MAC and Gegengift Model Iwan / M4 Models Many thanks to Promenaden Eck, Berlin

T-shirt Paul Smith Shirts Orlebar Brown Jacket Caruso Trousers Sopopular Scarf worn around the waist Tiger of Sweden Sandals Asos

Shirt & jacket Replay Long-sleeved shirt & waistcoat Caruso Trousers Bally

See more Fashion ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

Jumper Vladimir Karaleev Blouse & Other Stories

Shirt Nudie Sweater Kauf Dich Gl端cklich

Tube dress Etions Formidables/Lisa Bender Sleeveless vest Mavi Short silk top Hien Le Shoes Geox Bangle Vibe HarslĂ¸f

Knitted dress Whitetail Tank top KleiderReich, Cologne Woollen socks Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Denim coat Ganni Top KleiderReich, Cologne Jeans 7 For All Mankind Shoes Lika Mimika

Short dress worn as a top Replay Roll-neck pullover Ganni Skirt Sandro

Bomber jacket Schott NYC Top Vintage Helmut Lang Trousers Kaviar Gauche

Coat Nudie Bodysuit Vintage Philippe Starck / Wolford

Photographer Erwin Wenzel www.erwinwenzel.de Assistant Alexander Hagmann www.alexanderhagmann.com Styling Natalia Witschke / Nina Klein Agency Hair and make-up Elena Köhler / Ligawest Actress & model Violetta Schurawlow / Wasted Management / Model Pool Many thanks to Moch Figuren, Cologne

Woollen cape Aigle Long-sleeved top Michael Sontag Jeans Citizens of Humanity

Denim jacket Edwin Denim culottes & Other Stories Blouse Strenesse

Textile & Trends – Çalik Denim, Istanbul

Living in Blue

Denim trends AUtumn/Winter 2016/17

BOssa — Black Light Black has been making its mark on the world of fashion ever since the mid-14th century. Which is an incredibly long time, considering the unpredictable nature of trends. It has always been known to exude an air of solemnity, strength, elegance and power. Quite simply, black always looks the part! And for autumn/ winter 2016/17, the Turkish denim specialist Bossa is providing us with even more choice when it comes to this timeless (non-)colour. With its ‘Black Light’ concept, the company is extending its colour range of black, grey and all of their associated nuances. But the look is a lot less strict in the second concept ‘Back in the Days’, which – as the name suggests – is sending us on a journey back to the past. Eighties acid wash denim with blue undertones is celebrating a comeback and bringing the loudest and brashest decade of the past century back to life. For concept number three, entitled ‘Mountain Adventure’, Bossa is answering the call of nature and concentrating on dark, rich colours like dark brown, rustic denim blue, forest green, marine and khaki, as well as dipped over-dyes and colour coatings. Different textures and irregular constructions create a rough look that is perfectly suitable for escaping everyday life and embarking on your next adventure. /cm

One of the key words in the jeans industry at the moment is ‘comfort’. In addition to a good fit and a cool look, wearing comfort is becoming an increasingly important factor for customers buying jeans. At Denim Première Vision on 27th and 28th May in Barcelona, the Turkish label Çalik Denim will be presenting its latest collection for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season and shifting the focus on everything to do with comfort, whether it be optimised fits, performance or special technical attributes. ‘Fix-Fit’, the super-stretch collection with modal and Miyabi fibres, stands out with its smooth feel, natural brightness, heat regulation and breathability. ‘M’core’, the menswear concept, is also all about comfort, but concentrates on more of an edgy look, whereby, despite the rigidlooking material, plenty of freedom of movement is guaranteed thanks to the stretch content. ‘Skin Flex’ has also retained its place in the portfolio: ultra-elasticated and with a soft touch on both the inside and the outside, these jeans fit snugly like a second skin, just like the ‘Warm-up’ range for the winter season. Innovative, irregular yarns create a wool effect, further contributing to the authentic wintry look. /cm

www.bossa.com.tr

www.calikdenim.com

Çalik — The feel-good factor

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Textiles & Trends – Bossa, Yüreğir/Adana, Turkey 60 — 02/2015 108

TExt Cheryll Mühlen Illustrations Frauke Berg

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Textiles & Trends – Isko, Inegöl/Bursa, Turkey

What may sound Swedish at first is in fact Italian: ‘Swenim’ is the new lightweight denim range by Candiani, which is aimed at the key factors of tomorrow’s fashions: feel-good materials, performance, fashion and comfort. The denim experts from Northern Italy are moving with the times – a move which, first and foremost, is all about stretch! And the focus is on the patented ‘Sling’ technology – a spinning and finishing method for particularly high elasticity and fast recovery. The latest highlight is the additional finishing process, known as ‘Shaper’, which improves the technical, optical and haptic attributes

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of Candiani premium stretch denim. Today, decades of expertise enable Candiani to create authentic jeans with excellent stretch properties. For maximum comfort with maximum commitment. /cm www.candianidenim.it

‘Isko Trueblu’, ‘Isko Oldskool’, ‘Isko Weft-Side Story’ and ‘Isko Master Coat’: in addition to previous innovations like the ‘Jeggings’, these four new additions will certainly also be playing a leading role in the future of jeans trends. For autumn/ winter 2016/17 the Turkish denim weaver has fine tuned its concepts even further: new colour shades for an even more authentic denim look, new vintage interpretations for even more seventies flair and a large selection of coloured weft-stretch fabrics and soft surfaces for more effective scraping

are the result. And Isko has another brand new ace up its sleeve: ‘Isko Black Chip’ with its unique colour effect. The yarn’s inner thread is white and, once the stone wash or scraping process is completed, the striking white contrasting really comes into ef-

fect; revealing strong twill lines with black coloured weft. Isko is also continuing to concentrate on unisex comfort lines with lots of stretch,

like ‘Isko Comfort’ and ‘Isko Xmen’s’. The list of items in the collection is long. But one thing’s for sure: it contains all the denim looks you’ll need for autumn/winter 2016/17. /cm www.isko.com.tr

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Textile & Trends – Candiani Denim, Robecchetto con Induno/Italy

Candiani — Swenim Denim

ISKO — Soft and Strong

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Where to find Us

Where To Find Us Selected stores Germany

Do You Read Me? Auguststr. 28 D-10117 Berlin Heil Quelle Pannierstr. 40 D-12047 Berlin K Presse+Buch Fernbahnhof Zoo D-10623 Berlin K Presse+Buch Am Ostbahnhof D-10243 Berlin K Presse+Buch Bahnhof Spandau D-13597 Berlin K Presse+Buch Airport Schönefeld D-12521 Berlin K Presse+Buch Airport Tegel D-13405 Berlin HDS Retail Boxberger Str. 3-9 D-12681 Berlin HDS Retail Airport Tegel D-13405 Berlin

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K Presse+Buch Bonn Hauptbahnhof D-53111 Bonn

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K Presse+Buch Bremerhaven Hauptbahnhof D-27570 Bremerhaven K Presse+Buch Bremen Hauptbahnhof D-28195 Bremen

INternational

K Presse+Buch Dortmund Hauptbahnhof D-44137 Dortmund K Presse+Buch Dresden Hauptbahnhof D-01069 Dresden Relay – HDS Airport Düsseldorf D-40474 Düsseldorf Grauert GmbH Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof D-40210 Düsseldorf HDS Retail Airport Frankfurt D-60547 Frankfurt Schmitt & Hahn Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof D-60051 Frankfurt Schmitt & Hahn Gießen Hauptbahnhof D-35390 Gießen K Presse+Buch Fernbahnhof Altona D-22765 Hamburg K Presse+Buch Hamburg Hauptbahnhof D-20099 Hamburg K Presse+Buch HH-Dammtor D-20354 Hamburg K Presse+Buch Hamburg Airport D-22335 Hamburg HDS Retail Airport Hannover D-30669 Hannover

HDS Retail Hannover Hauptbahnhof D-30159 Hannover Bahnhofsbuchhandlung Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof D-69039 Heidelberg Falter Bücher & Presse Hindenburgstr. 190 D-41061 Mönchengladbach Soda. Internationale Magazine & Bücher Rumfordstr. 3 D-80469 Munich K Presse+Buch Bahnhof München-Ost D-81667 Munich K Presse+Buch Munich Hauptbahnhof D-80335 Munich K Presse+Buch München-Pasing Bahnhof D-81241 Munich Schmitt & Hahn Bahnhofsplatz 9 D-90004 Nuremberg Schmitt & Hahn Airport Nuremberg D-90411 Nuremberg Grauert KG Oberhausen Hauptbahnhof D-46045 Oberhausen K Presse+Buch Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof D-70173 Stuttgart Wittwer Airport Stuttgart D-70629 Stuttgart

MAGMA 117-119 Clerkenwell Road London EC1R 5BY UK Do Design Calle Fernando VI, 13 28004 Madrid Spain Papercut Krukmakargatan 24-26 11851 Stockholm Sweden Athenaeum Nieuwscentrum Spui 14-16 1012 XA Amsterdam Netherlands Drawn & Quarterly 211 Bernard Ouest Montreal, Quebec H2T 2K5 Canada Around The World 148 West 37th St. New York City, NY 10018 USA Alchemy Works 826 East 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90013 USA

Fashion Trade Show www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

ten questions for — Mads Mørup, Knowledge Cotton Apparel

ten questions for:

Mads Mørup CEO OF Knowledge Cotton Apparel

1. Your father Jørgen Mørup started his fabric mills in the sixties. What is your first memory of the fashion business? As a child, I didn’t think about it very much. But when I saw my father working, I was very impressed and proud of what he did and how he did it. I often visited different fashion stores and factories with my father. Growing up in a textile area of central Jutland meant that I would always meet a lot of relatives and people we knew there. It felt like a small community.

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2. What is the biggest responsibility you had to deal with when you took over your father’s company? When I decided to bring my familiy business forward, my biggest responsibility was carrying on the legacy and focusing on quality. Treating things with respect and care. And moving from a manufacturer to wholesaler brand.

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3. Have you ever wanted to change to another industry? No, because the fashion industry is so full of new exciting things and is so fast-moving that it covers the need for many things. I get to see the world through my work. 4. What drives you to produce sustainable fashion? Challenging the norm, exploring the undiscovered. By trying to create something that differs from others and our thoughts about creating the brand value based on sustainability. And of course also doing good for the environment.

5. What ethical aspects need more attention in the fashion world and where do you see more potential for sustainable fashion? What needs more attention is raw oil from cotton seed and cotton farming that is used in the food industry, and animal welfare as far as the cosmetics industry is concerned. We see potential all around us. Sustainability is a huge trend that is unavoidable and all companies have to address and pay attention to it. As a retailer you need to be offering sustainable fashion in today’s world and also following a business strategy that moves you forward. People need to realise that sustainable fashion can be profitable if it’s done the right way.

6. What is your greatest fear when it comes to the industry? We don’t have any fears as we strongly believe that we’re on the right path with our concept and branding. We’re aware that our future focus is on branding. 7. What do you see as the biggest challenge for the fashion business in the future? Individual brands need to create a closer bond with manufacturers and platforms that are accessible to customers. There also has to be a focus on the retail environment that is out of the ordinary and provides a shopping experience that makes customers return. Independent retailers need to step it up a level in order to keep with the game. Like the brand stores that are currently raising the bar.

8. How do you combine ethics and lifestyle within your brand? We do it on a daily basis, in everything we do. It’s part of our DNA. To communicate this, we have our cotton brain concept and campaigns. 9. How organic is your everyday life? My everyday life is a mix of everything. Not all of my choices can be organic. But if I can’t go for the organic option, I compensate for that with something else. I believe that awareness about sustainability and organic is so important, as is having good intentions when it comes to doing what is best for yourself and the people around you. 10. What is your goal for the future? To become the world’s biggest sustainable fashion brand with global distribution.