J'N'C Magazine 4/2016

JEANSWEAR And CONTEMPORARY FASHION

English

No 66 / 4-2016

Fashion Trends 2017, Guest commentary by Christoph Stelzer from DFROST, Interview with Fabrice Aeberhard from Viu Eyewear, TradeShow Preview & Denim Statements

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EDITORIAL

BIG, BIGGER, BEAUTIFUL

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EVERYTHING IS IN A CONSTANT STATE OF FLUX – A STATEMENT THAT APPLIES NOT ONLY TO FASHION, BUT ALSO TO J’N’C MAGAZINE.

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Our last issue of 2016 is bringing a number of changes with it. This time it’s not a city that’s at the focus, but fashion and textile trends instead.

So rather than a city guide, we’ve put together a trend guide to help you navigate your way through the jungle of collections out there. The increasingly complex world of fashion is demanding that we all have a better understanding of what’s going on – and that’s where we come in!

The ‘anything goes’ approach of the last few years is continuing unabated. After all, who wants to be restricted by the dictates of fashion if we can mix whatever styles and looks we want? That explains why today’s fashionistas change their look whenever the mood takes them: one day it could be a neoneo-Romantic vibe with exotic print suits, elaborate embroideries and opulent furs, as you can see in the ‘Bohème Galore’ section of our Trend Guide. And perhaps the next day futuristic-looking sportswear with brand new features in high-tech materials. Or even a ‘Retro Sport’ look, modelled on 30s-style tennis stars and also featured in our pick of the latest trends.

But despite the stylistic diversity, one thing has stayed the same: the penchant for referencing bygone decades. The last few seasons were dominated by the whole 1970s trend so it’s not really surprising that we’re now harking back to the 80s and 90s. This era was recently referenced for the hundredth time by Alessandro Michele for Gucci, yet interpreted more beautifully than ever before. It was blatantly obvious that this couldn’t be topped. So the time has come for something new.

Take for example Acne from Sweden, who were one of the first to showcase the voluminous oversized trend that originated in the 1980s. The collections by designer collective Vetements also feature XXL styles. Under the motto ‘Broad Shoulders’ we’re taking a closer look at this trend, which we think will be a major influence on the silhouettes of the next few seasons.

‘Big, bigger, beautiful’ is the name of the game.

After years of figure-hugging styles, this is a look that our Central European tastes and sensibilities will have to get used to. But fortunately the portfolio also includes an old favourite: denim. In the omnipresent head-to-toe look, it’s currently taking the catwalks by storm. The indigo fabric is indispensable at the moment, which is why we also put together a panel of experts to discuss the topic.

From page 80 you can find out all about the latest developments on the denim market.

And Gerlind Hector has researched what awaits you in the upcoming tradeshow season. Read her summary from page 46. Christoph Stelzer, manager of the Stuttgart agency for retail identity, DFROST, is sharing his opinion on the current retail situation – and banging the drum for store sharing. J’N’C author Cheryll Mühlen spoke to Fabrice Aeberhard, creative director of the young Swiss eyewear label Viu, which offers handmade designer glasses produced in Italy and Japan.

And last but not least, we’re not forgetting J’N’C’s leading lady – fashion herself. Valeria Mitelman and Julia von der Heide are introducing us to the new colour palettes while David Beger is whisking us off to suburbia. His photographic subject: the street style trends of tomorrow.

ILONA MARX Ilona Marx is still finding it hard to get to grips with the whole power shoulder trend. Even though her recently purchased vintage Jil Sander safari coat from the 1990s boasts these fashionable wide shoulders, she still feels like an American footballer whenever she’s wearing it.

I hope you enjoy reading this issue, and also that you’ll soon warm to the new trends – just like I have.

Ilona Marx

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CONTENTS

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BITS & PIECES

THE MASTERPIECES

17

GUEST COMMENTARY / CHRISTOPH STELZER

36

38

BITS & PIECES

12

BRANDS & BRAINS / VIU

34

FASHION SHOOTS

70

40

FASHION SHOOTS

54

28

TREND GUIDE 2017

DENIM STATEMENTS

80

10 QUESTIONS FOR ...

82

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MUST BUYS

14

COLUMN 6

10

MUST BUYS

40

FASHION SHOOTS

62

CONTENTS

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS EDITORIAL CONTENTS IMPRINT COLUMN / CONTRIBUTORS BITS & PIECES

4 6 8 10 12

THE MASTERPIECES

17

TREND GUIDE 2017

28

TRADESHOWS PANORAMA BERLIN SELVEDGE RUN DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION / MUNICH FABRIC START - BLUEZONE PREMIUM / SEEK GDS / I.L.M ISPO MUNICH / GALLERY

46 48 50 51 52 53

FASHION SHOOTS DAVID BEGER

SUBURBIA

BRANDS & BRAINS

54

VALERIA MITELMAN

STRAWBERRY BLONDE

FABRICE AEBERHARD, VIU

THE RIGHT PERSPECTIVE

34

GUEST COMMENTARY: CHRISTOPH STELZER, DFROST

HAND-IN-HAND COMMERCE: STORE SHARING

62

JULIA VON DER HEIDE

COPPER COLOURED QUIET

70

36

TEXTILES & TRENDS

MUST BUYS

38

DENIM STATEMENTS

THOUGHTS ON DENIM

80

TEN QUESTIONS FOR KORNELIUS WERHAHN-MEES OWNER OF SOUL OBJECTS

82

PRICE Germany 9.50 EUR A, NL, B 10.50 EUR; E, P, I 11.50 EUR Switzerland 15.80 CHF

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Cover photo: IMAXtree

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PUBLISHER EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Liesegangstr. 16 40211 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de

FREELANCE CONTRIBUTORS Gerlind Hector /gh

COPY EDITORS Paula Hedley, Eva Westhoff

PHOTOGRAPHY Cathrin Beck, David Beger, Valeria Mitelman, Julia von der Heide, Bernd Wichmann

PRINT Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ilona Marx /im

TRANSLATION Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pierre D’Aveta EDITOR Cheryll Mühlen /cm

ILLUSTRATION Frauke Berg

DESIGN & LAYOUT Martin Steinigen, chewing the sun www.chewingthesun.com IMAGE EDITING Jean Pascal Zahn

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 151 p.daveta@jnc-net.de

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COLUMN

TEXT GERLIND HECTOR ILLUSTRATION FRAUKE BERG

Some of our

CONTRIBUTORS

VENESSA ARNOLD Venessa, who always has to spell out her name, is one of the few photographers left who knows her way around a darkroom.

Which doesn’t mean the expert photographer isn’t clued up about the digital aspects of her profession. Having graduated with a degree in clothing technology, she combines her many talents in her work as a stylist. After all, she is certainly au fait with fashion and knows how to create the perfect shot. Together with photographer Valeria Mitelman she set the scene for our Strawberry Blonde fashion shoot – where you can see Berlin local Venessa’s love of harmonious colours and clear-cut lines.

COLUMN

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Dear dachshund

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Finally he’s back! After disappearing off the scene for a while, the good old sausage dog is once again plodding along Germany’s streets, yapping at little children and looking anything but elegant in the process. Which is how it should be. Since the whole ‘it’ dog hype with dinky Chihuahuas, pitiful pugs and streamlined Weimaraner hunting dogs, it’s time to hark back to simpler times. The “fat, absurdly elongated handbag of a dog” – which is how the German satirist Kurt Tucholsky once described Germany’s unofficial mascot – is certainly the perfect accessory for our new neo-conservative lifestyle. After all, suddenly everyone wants to get back to the supposed good old days and spend Saturday evenings curled up on the couch in a fluffy robe after a relaxing bath and be waited on hand and foot by mummy dearest, instead of dressing up to the nines and dancing until dawn.

And this may well be down to the climate of uncertainty about the future. In politics, the economy and therefore also in fashion.

The fashionistas among us are now preferring to follow questionable ‘trends’, sold to us time and time again as the next big thing and which are so mediocre, you can’t really go wrong with them. Neo-parochialism is the rather apt term given to this by the social critics. Logically, our great need for security comes from the various fears that prominent armchair politicians like to play on – and know how to use to their own ends.

The winners have the power, and those with power are also the ones who set the trends.

This is something trend researchers learn in their first semester.

So, has the penny dropped? That’s right, it’s the much older gentlemen who are currently setting the tone. Whether Donald Trump, who is threatening to build a wall around the USA, Viktor Orbán, who’s already in the process of doing so in Hungary, or Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, who would also prefer to keep any dissidents behind bars. And in the whole Brexit debacle it was also the older guys who outvoted the younger generation.

While they’re downing the umpteenth shot of Jägermeister in their favourite watering hole, complete with deer antlers above the bar, the Berlin hipsters with handlebar moustaches probably don’t have a clue who subliminally fed them their oh-so-original style and who they actually have to thank for their new-old gentleman look. And the ladies? Their outfits are currently being taken apart and critiqued just as much as they were back in 1970, when Lenelotte von Bothmer was thrown out of the German Bundestag for wearing a trouser suit.

Whether burka on the beach or mini skirts at midnight, perhaps the girls who are blindly following every trend only have themselves to blame. So instead of a sausage dog, we think their next must-have accessory should be an extra-vicious, growling pit bull. That should show everyone who’s boss!

DAVID BEGER It all started with his grandma and grandad’s slideshow. That was when the young David from Stuttgart first saw a photo of the African Savannah and decided he wanted to go there one day. Not to work as a lion tamer, but as a photographer. Although, as a portrait and fashion photographer he might be a bit of both. For J’N’C magazine he shot this issue’s Suburbia fashion editorial, showing his enthusiasm for experimentation. Teamwork, travelling and trying out new things are exactly his cup of tea. He liked the fact that our location looked like we were shooting right in the middle of Berlin-Marzahn, but was actually in the much more sedate city of Munich: if there’s one thing David isn’t so keen on, it’s clichés.

JULIA VON DER HEIDE If you come from a small village in Westphalia, in north-western Germany, you only have one of two options: you either stay there forever or you venture out into the big wide world. Julia chose the latter, initially only making it as far as Dortmund.

She studied at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts there, moving first to Rotterdam and then eventully further afield to New York, the ultimate hotspot for portrait and fashion photographers. After working as an assistant for some of the greats of the photography world, Markus Jans and Nan Goldin, she settled in Berlin two years ago and launched her freelance career. She likes to arrive at her photography jobs by bike, is happy if somebody brings along a dog and likes to end a long working day with a spot of basketball.

BITS & PIECES

BITS & PIECES

KENZO:

HOMAGE TO THE CLUB LEGENDS Growing up, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the two creative brains behind luxury Paris fashion label Kenzo, craved the legendary nightlife of New York’s club scene. But living 3000 miles away in Los Angeles, it was nothing more than a dream for a long time. With their S/S 2017 resort collection they have made this wish come true by sending 90s-style clubbing looks down the runway – voluminous oversize silhouettes, deconstructed cuts, a touch of glitter and iridescent leather, wild patterns and sporty prints included. Celebrating a surprising comeback are short shorts – but this time around they’re aimed at the male of the species. So all you men out there have until next summer to get your pins toned and buffed – no skipping the dreaded leg day on your next workout! /cm WWW.KENZO.COM

MELVIN & HAMILTON:

RAW BEAUTY The spring/summer 2017 collection by German shoemaker Melvin & Hamilton is all about transparency, uniqueness and balance – but there is one common theme in particular that runs through the designs: denim. Their ladies’ shoe model ‘Molly 11’, with its creative mix of denim upper material and leather leaf adornment, provides a surprisingly fresh look at the topic, nonchalantly bridging the gap between casual and elegant. /cm WWW.MELVIN-HAMILTON.DE HUNTER:

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RAIN ON ME There’s a new kid on the block.

Or to be precise: a new line by Hunter, with seasonless collections. With new styles, technologies and materials, the aim of ‘Core’ is to celebrate the traditional British brand’s special relationship with rain. After all, there are very few brands that manage to make protection against the elements look so good – and the legendary Hunter ‘Original Tall Boot’, new ‘Hunting Coats’ and mini rucksacks made of rubberised leather are proof of this. And to make sure everyone knows about it, the accompanying campaign will also be coming soon.

Under the motto ‘Rain Starts Play’, the brand’s creative director Alasdhair Willis is reminding us just how much fun splashing around in puddles in a downpour can be. From February 2017 the collection will be available to selected wholesale partners. /cm WWW.HUNTERBOOTS.COM

HYDROGEN:

FASHION CYBORG Prêt-à-porter meets technical high performance. But the overused term ‘athleisure’ doesn’t quite cut it here. With its capsule collection ‘17.0’, Italian luxury sportswear label Hydrogen isn’t translating elements from sport into fashion for the spring/summer 2017 season, but quite the opposite – fashionable elements into sportswear. And they’re calling the result ‘TechnoCyborg’. High-tech materials are used alongside soft cotton, and thanks to structured lines, geometric shapes and sophisticated cuts, the sweatshirts, T-shirts, shorts and trousers still look the part even if you’re not pumping iron at the gym. /cm WWW.HYDROGEN.IT

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SCHOTT NYC:

DRAGON HEART The past five years have been very successful for Schott NYC – especially in Germany. And the reason is the favourite item by the traditional American label, the iconic MA-1 bomber jacket. For the spring/summer 2017 season it’s been given a cool update, making Schott stand out from its competitors once again. Say hello to elaborate, vintage Japanese-style embroideries featuring mythical dragons and typical aviation symbolism – something we never even knew we needed until we set eyes on it. /cm WWW.SCHOTTNYC.COM

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BITS & PIECES

MI-PAC:

BAG MANIA British bag label Mi-Pac was only founded in 2012, but has had a clearly defined signature from the beginning. The brand is a purveyor of classic heritage styles with a modern twist, thanks to cool prints and high-quality materials. Their target group is style-conscious rucksack maniacs. And to make every single one of these maniacs happy, the spring/ summer 2017 collection boasts a fresh colour scheme that includes peach, pistachio and cornflower blue, as well as tropical and nautical themes, playful pug prints and a whole host of different shapes and sizes. /cm WWW.MI-PAC.COM

ACNE:

JULIA SEEMANN:

LEAD US INTO TENTATION

ON OUR RADAR

“I was thinking about how empty Sweden is in the summer, and also how romantic,” says Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson about his brainstorming for the spring/summer 2017 menswear collection. “This is a fresh take on menswear at Acne Studios,” he continues. And the new approach is making itself felt in the crisp and clear designs that reflect this kind of Swedish summer – which outdoor jackets are a big part of. Camping in the great outdoors was an important source of inspiration. The result includes overthe-head parkas made of old tent fabrics, waterproof, zipped A-line jackets that look like a tent from the back, and ponchos that can be thrown on like a tent, offering instant protection from the elements. /cm WWW.ACNESTUDIOS.COM

SUADEO:

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THE NEW SHOPPING APP WITH A TWIST

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“Recommend your outfits to your friends and earn money on Suadeo.” That’s the promise of Cologne start-up Suadeo, established by the three young entrepreneurs Daniel Donaldson and Max and Julius Otten. Their business model? An app aimed at young, digital-savvy fashionistas: shopping via social media, for example on Instagram, Facebook

and Pinterest. The principle is as simple as it is brilliant: simply upload your outfit snapshots onto Suadeo, share them on the social networks and you’ll receive a small commission for every click on the post. And the fact that not only Suadeo users profit from this, but retailers can also look forward to new customers thanks to the advertising, shows the

Julia Seemann from Zurich is definitely topping our list of up-and-coming designers to watch out for. She’s been unstoppable ever since she was invited to New York Fashion Week with her graduate collection in autumn/winter 2015. Why? Because she manages to make clothing that is both wearable and extreme at the same time.

Her spring/summer 2017 collection, created in collaboration with Swiss artist Ramon Hungerbühler, is testimony to this. The inspiration is unusual: like in Adobe Photoshop, the pair follow a ‘layer principle’, creating distinct textile levels that function independently, yet form a self-contained, comprehensive whole. /cm JULIASEEMANN.COM

huge potential of the platform.

You’ll have to be patient though: following the first test phase in November the app won’t be going online until the end of the year. But we’re sure it’ll be worth the wait! /cm SUADEO-APP.COM

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THE MASTERPIECES

THE MASTERPIECES EDITOR’S PICK

J’N’C PROUDLY PRESENTS: THE MASTERPIECES THAT HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO BECOME TRUE CLASSICS

TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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PHOTOS BERND WICHMANN

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THE MASTERPIECES

Touch me baby one more time! / REPLAY

Touch REPLAY As well as being overused in the fashion business, the term ‘innovative’ has become just as hackneyed in all other industries too. After all, new doesn’t necessarily also mean innovative. But in the case of the most recent Replay coup, it’s a word that definitely applies. Their new ‘Touch’ is really turning the world of denim on its head. All it takes is one touch – as the name suggests – and the difference to standard, run-of-the-mill jeans instantly becomes clear. Featuring the stretch qualities of the Hyperflex models, these jeans are raising the bar even higher in terms of comfort. Rarely has a pair of jeans felt so soft or had such a good fit – thanks to the patented Recall system, which is responsible for an envy-inducing slimming effect without creases at the knees or on the derrière. The design is minimal, wash details are used with restraint and rosé-gold studs and buttons add an elegant, feminine touch.

Four styles and a modest choice of colours ensure you’ll find the fit and colour that are perfect for you.

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WWW.REPLAYJEANS.COM

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THE MASTERPIECES

To see the world / VIU

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The Voyager (Gunmetal & Gold) VIU

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We should never underestimate the impact of a pair of sunglasses. After all, barely any other accessory has the ability to transform us from average to cool and glam in the blink of an eye. And even if characteristics like coolness or glamour always lie in the eye of the beholder, we think that our two eyewear masterpieces manage to fulfil both criteria. ‘The Voyager’ is the latest coup by Swiss label Viu and their look and material speak for themselves. Every titanium model is produced by hand in over

200 steps by a family-owned traditional manufacturer on Honshū island. Only Titanium Pure – the highest quality titanium alloy – is used, which guarantees absolute stability, light-as-a-feather frames and the ultimate wearing comfort. Wherever in the world you happen to be.

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THE MASTERPIECES

Small but perfectly formed / STIEBICH & RIETH

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Bug STIEBICH & RIETH Every stitch, every seam and every cut is carefully thought through. Because design for design’s sake isn’t enough for bag specialists Julia Rieth and Detlef Stiebich. Their products, handmade in Germany, bear witness to their love of quality. You’d never guess that the Hamburg label was founded as recently as 2012. Which may be thanks to the experience the creative duo gained at Bogner and Wunderkind, as well as their obvious talent and passion. Our Stiebich & Rieth masterpiece ‘Bug’ shows just how characteristic their own hallmarks have become.

The practical dimensions of 32 x 27 x 17 cm and the inside and smartphone pockets offer enough space to stow away all your essentials, without ever looking bulky. Only vegetabletanned leather and solid brass are used to make the bags.

Whether elegantly hung over the arm or casually slung over the shoulder – possible thanks to the 48 cm strap it comes with – ‘Bug’ always cuts a fine figure.

WWW.STIEBICH-RIETH.COM

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THE MASTERPIECES

Sahara style / FONNESBECH

Blixen FONNESBECH ‘Blixen’ consists of 15 percent recycled polyester and 15 percent recycled cotton from jeans collected in France. Which, mathematically speaking, already makes these trousers by the Danish label Fonnesbech 30 percent better than the average pair.

But Fonnesbech’s high sustainability standards, feel for design and timeless aesthetics can’t be expressed in mere numbers. It’s all in the feel and look. Which becomes apparent with ‘Blixen’s’ high-waist style and unique dryfeel fabric. The spring/summer 2017 collection takes its inspiration from the world’s largest desert: the Sahara. A hostile environment, where shimmering mirages and perpetual droughts can lead to sensory overload and confusion. But no need to worry: the Copenhagen label isn’t out to faze you – they’re all about hard facts and a sense of style.

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FONNESBECH-CPH.COM

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FOCUS

ON THE

GOOD J a n uary / 17—19 / 2017 — Kulturbrauerei Berlin

Accreditation

at

www.selvedgerun.com

THE MASTERPIECES

L.A. native / JOHNSON MOTORS, INC.

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Last Mile JOHNSON MOTORS, INC. It all started with Bud Ekins, an old friend of the owner of Johnson Motors, Sean Kelly. In 1955 Bud won the Catalina Grand Prix and years later he gave the T-shirt he was wearing during this legendary motorcycle race to Sean, laying the foundations for the notorious Johnson Motors Inc. shirts. Established in 1938, the company initially made a name for itself as a leading motorcycle dealer for Triumph. In terms of fashion the L.A.-based label has always focused on a vintage look and feel and can even call itself a pioneer in this field. Eventually a weaving mill in Los Angeles was given the task of creating a slub jersey that could live up to the original in terms of authenticity, proving that our ‘Last Mile’ masterpiece is certainly worthy of its name.

WWW.B-74.COM WWW.JOHNSONMOTORSINC.COM

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THE MASTERPIECES

Superior quality / LAMB & SHADOW

Boxer shorts should never be roomier than the trousers worn over them. That’s the rule of thumb followed by German company Lamb & Shadow – a label to watch for all the men out there. After all, when it comes to choosing underwear, the main criterion should always be the fit. The label offers its wearers a massive range of eight sizes to ensure everyone can find the perfect one for them. But what

use is the fit if the material isn’t right? This is why Lamb & Shadow uses only Italian shirt fabrics of the highest quality for its Vienna Lined Boxers, all of which are certified according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100. They are finished with flat-fell seams and also have an inner lining made of Egyptian cotton. And even though boxer

shorts are usually out of sight most of the time, the label knows how important it is to offer an extensive range of patterns and colours. After all, true style begins under your clothes.

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Vienna Lined Boxers LAMB & SHADOW

WWW.LAMBANDSHADOW.COM

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TRENDS

ROBERTO CAVALLI

ETRO

BOHÈME GALORE

DSQUARED2

ROBERTO CAVALLI

MISSONI

PETER PILOTTO

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FENDI

DRIES VAN NOTEN

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TRENDS

TREND GUIDE 2017

JACQUEMUS

RAF SIMONS

JACQUEMUS

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BROAD SHOULDERS

COSTUME NATIONAL

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

ANREALAGE

29

TRENDS

MILITARY ELEGANCE

BALMAIN

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BURBERRY

JOHN GALLIANO

30

LOUIS VUITTON

SACAI

TRENDS H&M

H&M

CALVIN KLEIN

A.F. VANDEVORST

TOPMAN DESIGN

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TOTAL DENIM

DSQUARED2

SONIA RYKIEL

OFF-WHITE

31

TRENDS

GUCCI

VETEMENTS

VETEMENTS

STATEMENT SWEATERS

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VETEMENTS

EMPORIO ARMANI

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UNDERCOVER

CHRISTOPHER KANE

GENERAL IDEA

TRENDS LIAM HODGES

EMILIO PUCCI

RETRO SPORT

XANDER ZHOU

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

COURRÈGES

KTZ

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VETEMENTS

CAITLIN PRICE

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BRANDS & BRAINS – FABRICE AEBERHARD, VIU, ZURICH

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

VIU, ZURICH

The Right Perspective Did you know that Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, one of the country’s most significant kings, fell victim to his own vanity? The poor man was short-sighted but refused to wear his glasses on the battlefield, and so, literally couldn’t see the enemy coming. Maybe the battle would have had a different outcome today, now

that glasses have shed their uncool reputation to become a highly coveted accessory. Like the handmade designer models by young Swiss eyewear label Viu. We talked to its creative director Fabrice Aeberhard about the game-changing shift in the eyewear sector and what still needs to change in the industry.

Viu was launched three years ago – by five founding members. How did the idea to work together come about?

As it usually does: out of a sense of dissatisfaction. If you’re looking for something you need to use yourself, and then recognise the various weaknesses in the product, you can try to improve on it.

themselves to a new pair of glasses every three years. That needs to change. There’s clearly so much potential there.

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What did you consider to be the most significant weaknesses in the eyewear sector?

The quality/price ratio, as well as the lack of transparency when it came to distribution. We were just lucky to have the perfect combination of people among us who could do something about it: two on the business side, two creatives and an optician.

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These days, eyewear is very much in and ‘four-eyes’ insults are out. How do you explain the shift?

The idea of a pair of glasses has simply changed. They are no longer just a medical aid, but play an important role in a person’s style. People are wanting to add highlights or make statements so they have become much bolder and more style-conscious. And for those who wear a pair of specs on their nose every day, it’s all the more important to be able to vary and adapt them to their look. But people still buy an average of six pairs of shoes each year, while they only treat

Viu has its glasses handmade by traditional manufacturers in Italy and Japan. How do you guarantee your pricing?

With our direct-to-consumer concept. There’s just Viu, the producer and the customer. We control the entire value chain and avoid any middlemen. As a result, we can pass on a good price to our customers. We also want customers to understand how the costs come together within the company, and attach great importance to transparency. For most people, a good product at such an attractive price is a great contrast and initially raises a few questions, but we believe that this concept has a great future.

You’ve opened eight stores in this year alone. Most recently in Geneva, Vienna, Düsseldorf and Leipzig. Do you see any risks in the stationary retail market?

We follow omnichannel principles and try to reach our customers through different media – online and offline. We sell our eyewear not only online and in our own flagship stores, but also in partner stores like Uzwei in Hamburg and Houseofhrvst in Munich. This allows us to give our customers the opportunity to experience the world of Viu in lots

BRANDS & BRAINS – FABRICE AEBERHARD, VIU, ZURICH FABRICE AEBERHARD Viu’s creative director, who studied industrial design at the Zurich University of the Arts, is responsible for the design.

of different ways. Especially when it comes to visual aids, customers still prefer and trust personal consultations and like to feel they are in good hands.

What’s your store concept?

We always have a basic structure. That includes our grid walls for showcasing the eyewear, a consultation desk and stools. But every store takes its inspiration from the city and surroundings of its location. So, for example the merchandising wall in Berlin is made of four tonnes of green Cipollino marble, fitting right into the gallery-like environment of Potsdamer Strasse.

It all began just three years ago. What are your goals for the next three?

When we started, we were well received on the market and opened our own stores in Zurich and Basel. Last year, we opened a total of six more stores in Germany and Switzerland. This year, we’ve opened eight stores to date and have expanded to Austria with a store in Vienna. We hope to round off this year with four or five more stores. Of course, we are also toying with the idea of expanding in other countries.

Which ones?

Scandinavia could be extremely exciting for us – no doubt our designs and high standards would go down very well there. France could also be an option, even though the market there is very difficult.

So your initial expectations have been fulfilled?

We’re already at a point we couldn’t have dreamed we would reach this quickly. That makes us very happy, and we’d like to continue for as long as it’s fun. At the moment we are really enjoying what we do. We’ve been incredibly lucky – with our employees too. We have a very good team.

Speaking of fun, what do you enjoy the most? The inspiration phase, the design process or the finished product?

There are two particularly exciting moments: when you discover something new in the creation and when you’re holding the finished product in your hands.

Where do you get your inspiration? After all, there is only so much you can do with a pair of glasses in terms of design….

I like to wander around cities and observe people. It’s amazing what you can see, just by sitting still for five minutes. I also find the period from the 1920s to the 1960s very inspiring. A lot of beautiful things were made then – not just in the eyewear sector. It was an incredibly elegant era.

The name Viu sounds like ‘View’ and hints at the fact you might want to change people’s perspective on the industry. What specifically needs to change in your opinion?

Customers often don’t even know what they are buying because the whole process is shrouded in mystery. But they are starting to ask more questions. There is certainly a trend towards transparency. I think people should stop blindly trusting the larger corporations. That would make a welcome change, but it remains to be seen if it actually happens.

Determined to offer highquality products at fair prices without relying on Asian mass production, five young men put their heads together in 2013 and founded the Swiss eyewear company Viu. Creative director Fabrice Aeberhard is responsible for the design. He studied industrial design at the Zurich University of the Arts. From 2006 to 2015, Aeberhard, together with his partner Christian Kaegi, ran the Zurich design studio AEKAE, as well as temporarily living and working in California and Munich. Kilian Wagner and Peter Kaeser, both graduates of the University of St. Gallen, rounded off the team with their management skills and are responsible for the strategic direction and operational implementation. The decisive optical expertise comes from the managing director of Müller Optik Zürich AG, Dominik P.D. Müller. Throughout the product development and quality control processes he provides a clear vision and perspective at Viu.

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What’s your promise to your customers?

We’re probably too young as a company to be making any promises. But what you get at Viu is a fair, well-made and environmentally-friendly product that we can be proud of.

VIU

Thank you for the interview.

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BRANDS & BRAINS — GUEST COMMENTARY: CHRISTOPH STELZER, DFROST

G U E S T C O MME N TA RY: CHRISTOPH STELZER, DFROST

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Hand-in-Hand Commerce: Store Sharing

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What turns the point of sale into the point of inspiration? This is the decisive question that the CEO of Stuttgart-based retail identity agency DFROST, Christoph

Stelzer, is asking himself. Here is his plea to retailers for inspiring collaborations in the form of store sharing.

“You only need to look at our small to medium-sized cities to see that the fashion market is overcrowded in terms of retail space. This is down to the endless expansion policies of the big-name chain stores. If a franchise partner’s store is doing well, the knee-jerk reaction is to open a brand-own store right next door. A business model, that – ever since the internet – is destined to fail. For too long, the focus has been on the technical aspect of selling and optimising the shop floor. While this business strategy is certainly far from obsolete, overall it has led to a landscape of monostructures and a loss of individuality and emotional appeal. Nowadays, it’s all about cutting corners. An approach that is too short-sighted: in the fight to stand out, what really counts is achieving the utmost customer satisfaction. One important factor remains the curation of the range on offer. And this is no easy feat, especially for monobrands.

The pressure weighing on the classic retail trade is immense. Neither size nor the current vitality of the bricksand-mortar stores are a guarantee for a future-proofed business. And shopping can – no, should – be fun, regardless of the whole price issue! But beyond that, a shift in values has taken place: sustainability, localism and transparency are gaining in importance. Inevitably, this means that many retailers in our monotonous city centres are paying the price. Even established brands need to up the ante with exciting new approaches. Meeting the demands of the point of inspiration means that many retailers have to revolutionise their concepts. And also their ranges. That doesn’t have to be restricted to fashion. It’s more about lifestyle worlds that communicate a coherent comprehensive concept, above and beyond specific brands, segments or even sectors.

But not every provider has the portfolio or the investors to

put together a concept store. One possible solution could well be a cooperation on the shop floor. Store sharing is a way to escape the two-pronged pressures of increasing demands and decreasing sales. And it can be even more than that: as each partner contributes their own qualities, even more potential is revealed, including sharing the burden of running costs. The central objective, however, is for both parties to boost the brands on offer and to broaden the range of services. Store-sharing partnerships are a charming way of positioning yourself as a lifestyle partner at POS. With that kind of collaborative concept, providing diverse product worlds in one space, a three-dimensional consumer experience can be created to appeal to all the senses. And on top of that, store sharing gives all of the brands involved the opportunity to tap into new target groups.

As always, when it comes to creating your own identity, there is no off-the-peg, easy solution for store sharing. DFROST approaches the idea from individualistic to systemic. The latter is suitable for faltering chain store concepts with nationwide rollouts or even beyond. In those cases, we introduce a uniform cooperation concept to all the branches. Alternatively, we offer iconic furnishing or space solutions, which can be operated with different partners from different sectors. Lifestyle and beauty accessories, stationery, personal shoppers, gastronomy, books and gallery owners are just as feasible as interior designers and florists. Or, where the concept allows for it, even creative workshops, neighbourhood support or fresh organic food.

Just like with a concept store, there are no limits to the possibilities of store sharing.”

WINTER STYLES 2017

04 – 06 MAR SUMMER STYLES 2017

02 – 04 SEPT

OFFENBACH WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE FOLLOW US ON

MUST BUYS 66 — 04/2016

MUST BUYS

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Basia Coat — RICHERT BEIL

MUST BUYS

LOUIS VUITTON

ISABEL MARANT MAX MARA

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IOANA CIOLACU

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MUST BUYS 66 — 04/2016

MUST BUYS

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346 Crew Neck — MERZ B. SCHWANEN

MUST BUYS

MSGM

GENERATION AFRICA ESTHER PERBANDT

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MARGARET HOWELL

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MUST BUYS 66 — 04/2016

MUST BUYS

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Harrow — DRYKORN

MUST BUYS

PERRET SCHAAD

TOPSHOP

KENZO

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VERSACE

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Sailor Pants — ESCADA

MUST BUYS

ANTEPRIMA

MARINA HOERMANSEDER AGNÈS B

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XIAO LI

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TRADESHOWS – PANORAMA, BERLIN

TEXT GERLIND HECTOR

PANORAMA BERLIN 17 – 19 JANUARY 2017 BERLIN EXPOCENTER CITY JAFFÉSTRASSE, SOUTH ENTRANCE 14055 BERLIN WWW.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

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Panorama Berlin not only showcases an ingenious mix of brands but, with the Nova Concept, is also offering a unique trend lab where ‘cool commercials’ and innovation come together. Ready to present the most important trends and developments to a large number of curious visitors, Panorama Berlin is kicking off the new season with optimism.

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As a fashion fair with a focus on leading international brands, the offer ranges from women’s and menswear collections to shoes and accessories. Its aim is to provide the professional visitors with a fast, comprehensive overview of new looks and trends by means of individually curated brand scenarios and an impressive programme of accompanying events.

A HOTBED FOR TRENDS Founded in January 2013, Panorama Berlin rapidly rose to international success, quickly developing into one of Europe’s biggest fashion tradeshows and attracting more than 50,000 visitors from 96 nations. Today it is one of the leading trade fairs of Berlin Fashion Week and sees big-name players such as Mustang, Ben Sherman, Mac, PME Legend, Bench, Garcia, Camel Active, Alberto, Blend, Mos Mosh and many more harmonising perfectly with small, exclusive brands like Abury Collection and Embee. Spread out over a total of eleven halls and an exhibition space covering more than 45,000 m², the show offers a wide, yet unique range of market segments from trending young women’s wear and contemporary luxury collections, innovative

menswear, denim and casual collections to shoes and accessories, as well as plus-size fashion and novel lifestyle products.

Each segment is presented in its very own space and setting. And for the autumn/winter 2017/2018 season, Panorama Berlin is also adding an entire 1300 m² exhibition space dedicated exclusively to lingerie.

In addition to the vast portfolio of more than 700 exhibiting brands, the true innovation, however, is the integration of lifestyle products and stylish non-textiles in order to broaden the notion of fashion. Or, as Jörg Wichmann, Panorama Berlin’s CEO, puts it: “Our aim is to inspire the buyers: we want to encourage retailers and help the retail trade create exciting stories that will attract the

end consumers. We strongly believe that a well-curated mix of fashion and lifestyle products can improve footfall and sales, but most importantly get people excited again.”

And last but not least, Panorama Berlin has paved the way for the future to become the world’s first 360° virtual fashion tradeshow with last season’s launch of Panorama Digital, which allows registered buyers to visit the fair’s digital platform 365 days a year. So with the news of all these extra surprises the organisers have up their sleeves, we’re looking forward to the January 2017 edition all the more.

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TRADESHOWS – PANORAMA, BERLIN

TRADESHOWS – SELVEDGE RUN, BERLIN

TEXT GERLIND HECTOR

SELVEDGE RUN 17 – 19 JANUARY 2017 KULTURBRAUEREI BERLIN SCHÖNHAUSER ALLEE 36 10435 BERLIN WWW.SELVEDGERUN.COM

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With its focus on menswear and accessories with a strong affinity to craftsmanship, heritage and quality, the Selvedge Run tradeshow is one of the newest, but also most popular newcomers of Berlin Fashion Week.

Co-founder Shane Brandenburg wants to keep offering a timeless alternative to mass consumerism and further hone the concept – whilst continuing his ongoing expansion plans.

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The fourth edition of Selvedge Run will be taking place in January 2017. Are you happy with how it’s developing?

More than happy! By presenting quality menswear and crafted goods, i.e. men’s fashions and accessories with character and

CRAFT AND QUALITY AT THE CORE quality in a concentrated form, we have really captured the zeitgeist. It still puts a smile on my face to see how grateful our exhibitors and visitors are when they’re strolling around our stands.

It’s also particularly inspiring to be able to look over the shoulders of the many craftsmen and women at the event.

Of course, but people are also doing business here; there are plenty of orders being placed.

It’s a perfect mix of larger, more established brands, but also young newcomers, who all have in common a desire to provide quality. And the positive feedback we’re getting shows that we’re on the right path.

That sounds like expansion.

In January 2017 we will indeed be extending our area by around 20 percent, as we’re expecting around 100 brands. But we’re also making sure our concept doesn’t get watered down and that we still stay small and exclusive.

What else can we expect in January?

As well as an exciting programme of accompanying events and the get-together on the first evening there will be a small extra hall with a kind of crafted concept store where we’ll be showcasing everything from food, home, mobility and outdoor goods down to handmade cosmetics. We’re also very proud of our cooperation

with the Japanese prefecture Okayama, home to the most traditional selvedge denim weaving mills, especially in Kurashiki which is known as a denim city.

The mayor there is paying for five to six selected brands to come over and present themselves to the European market. So of course we’re delighted that out of all the tradeshows he chose Selvedge Run as a European springboard!

Thank you very much for talking to us.

Connecting Global Competence

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ISPO.COM

munich.ispo.com/ticket

TRADESHOWS – DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION, MUNICH FABRIC START – BLUEZONE, MUNICH

TEXTS GERLIND HECTOR

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION 2 – 3 NOVEMBER 2016 PARIS EVENT CENTER (PEC) 20 AVENUE DE LA PORTE DE LA VILLETTE 75019 PARIS DENIMPREMIEREVISION.COM

Denim Première Vision is always good for surprises. So there’s certainly no risk that the leading denim tradeshow will grind to a halt. New industry trends are presented here every season – and a relocation is on the cards for the next event.

“Back to the roots” is the motto this time around at Denim Première Vision. For its upcoming November edition, the denim show is moving back home to Paris, the city where it saw the light of day almost ten years ago,

and tempting visitors with the battle cry “Tomorrow is calling”.

After five events in Barcelona, the international jeans specialists – 4000 of whom are expected to attend – are now being invited back to the Seine. But the organisers are reassuring us that this relocation definitely doesn’t mean they are taking their foot off the pedal in any way. On the contrary, the trendsetter event for new weaving technology, processing and finishing techniques is once again highlighting its three most important disciplines:

momentum, surprise and innovation. And so the new venue, the new Paris Event Center, is the perfect venue.

However, the tradeshow’s director Chantal Malingrey also knows that she has to adapt to the changing market conditions.

The economic future is uncertain; end consumers are putting more thought into what they buy.

And even the manufacturers are aware that creative ingenuity alone is no longer enough. “It’s about the values and the DNA of denim in the context of chang-

TOMORROW IS CALLING ing consumer behaviour,” says Malingrey, who invited denim guru François Girbaud to the last summer event in Barcelona.

He mainly sees the future of the industry in sustainable production processes. But it remains to be seen whether this means less fashion overall with the focus shifting onto environmentally friendly methods and special services, resulting in added value for the retailers and consumers.

We can’t wait to find out.

MUNICH FABRIC START 31 JANUARY – 2 FEBRUARY 2017 BLUEZONE 31 JANUARY – 1 FEBRUARY 2017 MUNICH ORDER CENTER MOC & ZENITH HALLE LILIENTHALALLEE 40 & 29 80939 MUNICH WWW.MUNICHFABRICSTART.COM

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As one of the world’s biggest tradeshows for fashion fabrics, accessories and garments, Munich Fabric Start has been laying solid foundations for the future.

And with new, innovative concepts and maximum flexibility, its organisers are ensuring continuity and steady growth.

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20 years of Munich Fabric Start.

The Munich-based fair can look back on two successful decades of regularly booked out events on an extended area. As well as continuously increasing visitor numbers, the tradeshow has

PACKING A PUNCH also become more international, both in terms of the exhibitors and the professional visitors, who are all impressed by the effective use of space around the MOC with a greater integration of the Zenith venue. As one of the world’s biggest shows for fashion fabrics and accessories, last September Munich Fabric Start welcomed more than 1000 suppliers with more than 1700 collections for the first time. And the expansion of the Bluezone in particular – the focal point for all denim experts – with an additional hall for Catalyzer that

focuses on heritage, sustainability and function, received an enthusiastic response. The new Keyhouse area, which is also regarded as a visionary source of inspiration focusing on the topics of sustainability, innovation and technology, is set to be further developed in 2017.

“Against the backdrop of these complementing segments, Munich Fabric Start is consolidating its position as an interactive communication platform,” says Sebastian Klinder, the event’s managing director. “With Keyhouse and Catalyzer we have

made an unambiguous statement with a future-proof trade fair format for a high-octane market yearning for new concepts.”

These steps should guarantee continuity and growth combined with flexibility, enabling quick and unconventional reactions to challenges and developments in the industry and the market. This clear statement in the strategic orientation of Munich Fabric Start shows that the event has significantly upped the ante for 2016 and is paving the way for a successful future.

The organisers of Premium want to showcase more than just fashion and accessories. As well as an excellently curated portfolio of brands and the recently introduced unique tradeshow app and Brand Match Tool, they also want to create product experiences with the help of digital content offers.

As the main focus of Berlin Fashion Week, with its early scheduling in mid-January 2017, Premium is giving us the chance to see the new collections even before the curtain is raised for the big shows in Paris or New York. The international fashion crowd will

get to browse the new styles by around 1000 brands at their leisure and of course place their orders. The huge grounds of Station-Berlin, covering an area of around 33,000 m², allow for plenty of variety, and the whole exhibition format has developed astonishingly well in recent years.

This January’s edition, which is still being fine-tuned, once again promises a perfect portfolio of brands and the thoughtful integration of lifestyle trends.

Newly introduced segments like activewear, which is particularly prominent on social media at the moment, as well as cosmetics and beauty are being expanded

and further developed.

In addition to textile trends, Premium also sets great store by unique services that are meanwhile invaluable to visitors and exhibitors alike. As a content provider, networking platform and innovation multiplier, the Premium Group was the first to launch a platform-spanning tradeshow app last summer. It provides visitors with relevant information about Premium, Seek and Bright and of course about the city of Berlin. Particularly useful is the incredibly smart Brand Match Tool, which makes it easier for visitors to filter out brands that are relevant to their

STATION-BERLIN LUCKENWALDER STRASSE 4-6 10963 BERLIN

TRADESHOWS – PREMIUM, BERLIN & SEEK, BERLIN

MODERNITY AND DYNAMISM

PREMIUM 17 – 19 JANUARY 2017

WWW.PREMIUMEXHIBITIONS.COM

own portfolio and to discover new labels. Additional services in the form of digital content offers to support the exhibitors in offering a real product experience are in the pipeline.

The #FASHIONTECH Berlin conference, which runs parallel to the tradeshow, is also being continued.

“We’re on a constant mission to live up to our high standards of modernity and dynamism,” says Anita Tillmann, managing partner of the Premium Group. “And we can’t wait for the upcoming edition in January.”

SEEK 17 – 19 JANUARY 2017

WWW.SEEKEXHIBITIONS.COM

What influences the market and who sets the trends? Seek has found its vocation within Berlin Fashion Week and wishes to further establish itself as a platform for the visionaries of tomorrow.

The organisers want to provide industry insiders with inspiration and ideas that go well beyond the realm of fashion.

Can it be beaten? At the last Berlin Fashion Week Seek celebrated its most successful event to date, meaning that expectations are naturally very high among exhibitors and visitors alike. At the end of June 2016 around 260 brands,

BY INFLUENCERS, FOR INFLUENCERS 30 percent of which were new additions, presented their styles for spring/summer 2017. Retailers were able to see the new collections by brands ranging from Alpha Industries to Fila, Lee and Levi’s down to Qwstion and Stutterheim. The brand mix in the segments Modern Menswear, New Classics, Upper Streetwear, Selected Womenswear, Authentic Designer Collections and Lifestyle Products met Seek’s high standards on progressive contemporary fashion, whereby the focus is still on menswear.

This is also expected to be the case in January 2017.

The word from Berlin is that a community spirit should be reinforced at the next event, an overall increasingly relevant topic that the organiser, the Premium Group, has thought long and hard about. The idea of lifestyle choices is being focused on because the major influencers meanwhile also come from other sectors like music, art and technology. Whether Rihanna and Puma or Pharrell Williams and Chanel, it shouldn’t just be about showing these cooperations, but about underlining their influence on the entire market.

And special events, where the

community can interact, have fun and make new contacts, will provide the ideal setting for this.

The highly successful Sneaker Spot by sneaker guru Hikmet Sugoer in cooperation with Ebay – a real and virtual marketplace where anyone who wants to can sell their sneaker collection – is also being developed further and standing out with even more exciting accompanying events. One thing is clear: Seek should serve as a platform for the visionaries of tomorrow who come together here to achieve their individual and common goals.

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ARENA BERLIN EICHENSTRASSE 4 12435 BERLIN

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TRADESHOWS – GDS, DÜSSELDORF & ILM, OFFENBACH

HEART AND SOLE One step back? Two steps forward! A decline in visitor figures is putting pressure on GDS, but its organisers are rising to the challenge and inviting the trade and industry to come together to perfect the concept of the traditional shoe fair. And they’re certainly not short of ideas...

Trends and news on the topic of shoes are presented twice a year at GDS. And just like at the summer event, the focus will be on the weekdays Tuesday to Thursday at the February event

in Düsseldorf. That’s because Friday is one of the strongest sales days, especially in the shoe business, so it’s only natural that the industry’s retailers will want to spend it in their own stores.

Despite all efforts, the GDS struggled with a slight drop in visitor numbers last July – a total of 12,500 retailers visited GDS and the private label show tag it! that was on at the same time.

Now it’s time for the organisers to confront the changing economic situation head-on.

GDS – GLOBAL DESTINATION FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES 7 – 9 FEBRUARY 2017 MESSE DÜSSELDORF GMBH STOCKUMER KIRCHSTRASSE 61 40474 DÜSSELDORF WWW.GDS-ONLINE.DE

According to Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, chairman of the management board of Messe Düsseldorf, there are extensive talks underway between the industry and retailers on how to optimise GDS, whereby it has already extended its profile, moving beyond a mere ordering event towards a trend platform.

Nevertheless, GDS director Kirstin Deutelmoser is demanding continuous development. She is well aware that topics such as sustainability, social media and visitor services are becoming

increasingly relevant.

Separating the Catwalk Area was an important step that was wellreceived by visitors.

With their unusual installations, the GDS Trend Spots provided fantastic visual merchandising inspiration and will also be there in February. Workshops, panel discussions, fashion blogger collaborations – the GDS team is still fine-tuning their well-established event and hope that by 7th February 2017 at the very latest the media and retail interest will translate into visitor numbers.

ing and wide-ranging collections are ensuring continued success.

“In a difficult economic climate, it’s absolutely vital to provide a high level of security and reliability to exhibitors and buyers,” says Arnd Hinrich Kappe, managing director of Messe Offenbach.

“We do everything we can to make a visit to the fair as enjoyable and effective as possible.”

Thanks to these principles, around 6000 visitors are expected to attend next March, with a growth in foreign visitor figures underlining the success of the

I.L.M concept in a global context.

The increasing number of exhibitors also signals positive developments – at the last September event there were exactly 304. In addition to the ideal presentation opportunities on almost 13,500 m², they also appreciate the personal atmosphere at the Offenbach exhibition centre.

Major players in the industry like Aigner, Picard and Briggs & Riley are present each season and will no doubt be presenting new developments and innovations at the March 2017 edition.

I.L.M INTERNATIONAL LEATHER GOODS FAIR 4 – 6 MARCH 2017 MESSE OFFENBACH GMBH KAISERSTRASSE 108-112 63065 OFFENBACH AM MAIN WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE

MORE THAN JUST LEATHER GOODS

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As a leading trade fair for leather goods, the international I.L.M is already well established. Thanks to the combination of smart scheduling, the perfect location and a personal atmosphere, this is the place to make important contacts and do good business deals.

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As a natural material, leather is very much in demand at the moment. Its durability and versatility continues to provide the finishing touches to most outfits.

The I.L.M International Leather

Goods Fair in Offenbach am Main is an international hotspot for the trade’s specialist retailers.

Twice a year, this is where the industry catches up on news and trends in luggage, bags, travel accessories, belts, gloves and even umbrellas and other accessories.

This specialist tradeshow has already been going for more than 60 years and continues to place a strong emphasis on networking, as well as presenting new products and fashion shows. Its combination of perfect schedul-

WWW.ISPO.COM

As the world’s largest sporting goods tradeshow, ISPO in Munich attracts more than 80,000 mainly international visitors every year. A new hall concept is being tested out in February, which the Action Sport area in particular will profit from.

Once a year, the international sports industry sets off on its pilgrimage to Munich. The ISPO is a big deal, with over 2600 exhibitors from more than 50 countries showcasing their newest products. Innovations from the segments Health & Fitness,

GALLERY 28 – 30 JANUARY 2017 AREAL BÖHLER HANSAALLEE 321 40549 DÜSSELDORF WWW.THE-GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.DE

Contemporary fashion, party outfits and casual street styles – twice a year Düsseldorf rolls out the red carpet for the fashion retail trade and is delighted to be reporting a growing interest. And this might also be down to the fact that the tradeshow organisers aren’t scared of change.

Düsseldorf is reclaiming its ‘luxury’ label. Now that the Berlin boom of the past few years has receded, Düsseldorf is wearing its crown once again. Best proof of this is Gallery, the international fashion tradeshow by the

TRADESHOWS – ISPO, MUNICH & GALLERY, DÜSSELDORF

MESSE MÜNCHEN GMBH MUNICH EXHIBITION GROUNDS 81823 MUNICH

AND ...

ACTION !

Skiing, Performance, Outdoor, Action Sport as well as Sportstyle and Textrends are growing in popularity, meaning that alongside retailers and manufacturers, fitness professionals and travel suppliers are also joining the masses at the purely B2B exhibition.

Under the motto “Back to the Roots”, the new hall concept will be put into place in time for the February event. Hall B6 will be serving as the central port of call for the action sports community and with its new ‘Polygon’ exhibition space, it aims to set

new benchmarks for the whole industry, with products and innovations being placed firmly at the focus. Thanks to the low booth heights and a central aisle with an after-work area, Hall B6 will be the new open networking business platform. And the concept offers exhibitors everything from a single source. “Action sports have always been essential to ISPO Munich and this will remain the case in the future,” Markus Hefter, ISPO Exhibition Group Director, says of the decision. “Our comprehensive ‘Polygon’ area provides all market

participants with the opportunity to take part in ISPO Munich and collectively make a statement as an industry — there are no more excuses not to join in.”

There’s no doubt that the 16 exhibition halls on the Munich trade fair grounds will be packed out as usual. After all, the unique global exhibition with its high fun factor is not only an ideal place for inspiration, good business and great networking — the close proximity to the Alps also makes it a real draw for keen skiers with the nearest ski lift less than an hour’s drive away.

and the proximity to Düsseldorf Airport is also proving to be a unique advantage. “This is about establishing a fashion event for Düsseldorf,” says Ulrike Kähler, Project Director of National Fashion Tradeshows for the Igedo Company. “Mere ordering platforms no longer cut it. Retailers need information, innovation and inspiration, which we are providing with our brands, location and events.”

Unique formats like the Streetstyle@Gallery in the Altes Kesselhaus location are also bringing plenty of glitz and glamour to

Düsseldorf. Its successful launch in July was attended by trendoriented brands like Cavallo de Ferro, Wu-Wear and Favela, all of which contribute the necessary coolness factor and street cred. Innovative forms of presentation like installations and performances will no doubt be real crowd-pullers this coming January, offering the perfect mix of business and entertainment that is sure to attract plenty of visitors and media interest.

TURNING UP THE VOLUME Igedo Company, which along with its integrated Red Carpet segment is focusing on its strengths and becoming more and more international.

Around 700 collections from over 20 nations are showcased at the Areal Böhler venue every six months, and as well as avantgarde and contemporary fashion, the premium fashion, accessories and lifestyle products are also gaining popularity among visitors. The former industrial site by the Rhine River offers around 13,000 m² of hall space including 1500 parking spaces

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ISPO MUNICH 5 – 8 FEBRUARY 2017

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T-shirt Trinitas Bomber jacket Vans Trousers Frisur Shoes Philippe Model

Suburbia Photography daVid BeGer / Karin Zumann Photographers Agency Styling roBerT eBerl Styling assistant dilara doGan Hair & make-up saBrina reusChl Model soPhie / Model Management

Hoodie BURTON Coat SET Jogging pants OUI

Sweater BURTON Jacket NOISY MAY Hat 5PREVIEW Socks NIKE Sneakers O.X.S.

Suit PAUL & JOE SISTER Bomber jacket & shoes BERSHKA Glasses ANDY WOLF

Top COS T-shirt NIKE Trousers SET

Top Paul & Joe sisTer Trousers ManGo

Top NIKE Jacket MINKPINK Tracksuit bottoms RICH & ROYAL

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JUMPER Maiami

Photography Valeria Mitelman www.valeriamitelman.com Styling Venessa Arnold www.venessaarnold.com Hair & make-up Noriko Takayama www.noriko-takayama.com Model Jolina / Mirr/rs www.mirrrs.com

BLOUSE MARINA HOERMANSEDER TROUSERS LOVE STORIES SOCKS FALKE SHOES COS BAG HORIZN STUDIOS SCARF HERR VON EDEN

ROLL-NECK TOP PETIT BATEAU DRESS MARINA HOERMANSEDER

Jacket & trousers ASOS Pullover & Other Stories Socks Falke SNEAKERS Filling Pieces

Sweater Marina Hoermanseder Coat Edited

Dress Joseph Shirt Marina Hoermanseder Jacket Trixi Schober Tights Falke SNEAKERS Filling Pieces

PULLOVER BY MALENE BIRGER BLAZER & BAG GANNI TROUSERS SANDRO SNEAKERS FILLING PIECES

ROLL-NECK TOP PETIT BATEAU BLAZER GANNI SKIRT MARINA HOERMANSEDER FUR IPHORIA SOCKS FALKE SHOES BY MALENE BIRGER

Coat Vladimir Karaleev Roll-neck BLK DNM Trousers Samsøe & Samsøe Shoes & Other Stories

Copper Coloured Quiet Photography Julia von der Heide Styling Mariana Lourenรงo Hair & make-up Ischrak Nitschke Model Steinunn / Mirr/rs

Dress Liebeskind

Dress Liebeskind

Jacket & trousers Valentine Gauthier Top Ganni Sneakers Frisur

Top Vladimir Karaleev Skirt Frisur

Knitted top Weekday Coat Thisisnon Trousers Samsøe & Samsøe Shoes Frisur

Roll-neck dress Weekday Coat & trousers Thisisnon

Roll-neck Frisur Jacket Weekday Trousers Cruba Sandals & Other Stories

TEXTILES & TRENDS – DENIM STATEMENTS

INTERVIEWS CHERYLL MÜHLEN

THOUGHTS ON DENIM One thing is certain in the world of fashion: everything comes and goes. Well, not quite everything. There is one item of clothing that has been with us for decades and is showing no signs of going anywhere: that’s right, jeans!

So what does the future of denim hold?

Which macro-trends are we seeing, which trends have survived and stayed in style and which underdog trends have the potential to shine in the future? We asked the real experts to spill the beans. And they’re also revealing the small details that can turn a pair of jeans into a favourite wardrobe staple.

THOMAS WIRTH CEO OF REPLAY GERMANY

“The forces currently defining the denim market are comfort, flexibility and a certain feel-good factor, as well as new and innovative materials. And even though fashion is a continual cycle, in the case of denim the primary factor remains authenticity. Imagination, craftsmanship and uniqueness should be the elements of any new jeans. Athleisure is a trend that is here to stay, but combined with military elements. For example, the Replay track pants (Hyperfree) in combination with a bomber jacket. What will become obsolete, however, is the seventies trend in my opinion. But high-waist pants with open seams and cropped denim shouldn’t be underestimated. They will make up a good share of the denim market. I also think that elegant elements of the cross-dressing phenomenon combined with military styling will break up the formal line and set new accents. At the end of the day, a pair of jeans should impress with their quality and special, authentic wash, making the wearer feel truly unique.”

priority and a bestseller. True denim character is also a very hot topic: authentic denim looks and subtle crosshatching effects are in demand by designers. We are putting a lot of effort into our new technologies in order to meet the sector’s demands with ‘Circular Elastech’, ‘Curve’, ‘Raw Stretch’ and ‘Denovated’. Besides these, sustainability has been a major topic in our industry. It’s clear that a great concept or product is not enough in itself: we have to think more about the way it’s made and the production methods.

Our ‘Oxygene’ and ‘Zero Cotton’ concepts respond to the needs of the industry. We believe that people will demand sustainability, authenticity, high-tech performance, body shaping and comfort, while coated and knitted denims, as well as broken twills, will vanish. Because of the increasing emphasis on comfort in daily life, the combination of denim and athleisure is a big trend. And as consumers are becoming more aware of environmental factors, they are demanding more eco-sensitive products. But when it comes down to it, a good pair of jeans should feel soft and provide the perfect fit, an elegant look and an authentic denim character.”

ALEXANDER GRAAH

66 — 04/2016

CO-FOUNDER/CEO OF DR. DENIM

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“Denim is evolving in a fragmented way, meaning that the days of one or a few strong macro-trends are behind us and we are instead seeing a number of coexisting microtrends emerging. That’s mainly down to various micro-trends in fashion being kicked off by digital opinion-makers, rather than fashion houses and brands. So, where there was once a skinny or boot-cut macro-trend, we now have a bit of everything going on at the same time. And in the mix we have the revival of rigid denim in anti-fits, as well as the emergence of straight legs and various others. I suspect rigid denim will remain an important item in women’s fashion for those in the know, but I doubt it will have much momentum among average consumers the way skinny fits have. If there’s an underdog trend that isn’t to be underestimated, it’s probably the rise of the ‘normal’ fit, i.e. anything that sort of looks the way a pair of slim jeans looked back in the 90s before stretch came on the scene – these can be fairly flattering while making a subtle statement at the same time, and aren’t so extreme that they can’t reach greater momentum. At the end of the day, any good pair of jeans will have to feature some sort of sustainability – e.g. organic cotton – whether it’s a second-skin fit or a pair of mom jeans.”

SEBASTIAN KLINDER

MANAGING DIRECTOR OF MUNICH FABRIC START

HAMIT YENICI

GENERAL MANAGER OF ÇALIK DENIM

“Right now, people are loving jeans for the comfort aspect as well as for the original denim look. The growing trend for wellness and healthy lifestyles will make us think more about value-added products that are ultracomfy and soft, while still keeping the denim look and offering functional features for an active lifestyle. Performance will still be a top

“There’s no end to the hype surrounding denim, a trend that was confirmed at the last Fabric Start in Munich. We recognised this development a while ago and expanded the Bluezone by a further hall, Catalyzer, which is home to Heritage, Sustainability and Function. In the future, success will depend on the cooperation between innovation and authenticity – and the art of combining the two. Important factors will include the integration of technical elements like breathability, cooling technology, sustainability and durability. A decisive turning point will be the result of intensive discussions on the topics of sustainability, recycling and environmentally friendly processes, a development we are observing with great pleasure and focusing our attention on. As we can see from the products on show in the Keyhouse area, it is already bearing fruits. The biggest development potential is in the use of technical fibres. By adding the Catalyzer area to the Bluezone and the newly created Keyhouse as a creative and innovative hub, we have demonstrated our ability as tradeshow organisers to create the perfect setting that lives up to the challenges of the very specific and demanding denim and sportswear market.”

TONY TONNAER FOUNDER OF K.O.I

“I would say one dominant trend is the move away from the skinny fits, towards wider denim styles. Just as the skinny lasted for quite some time, I think the wider leg will be here for a while. But skinny will continue to remain relevant overall. However, I don’t foresee the trend for cut-out knees and unpicked hems lasting more than a couple of seasons, although it can be a great look. Besides this, in womenswear there are some interesting fashion denim items like culottes, long skirts, dresses, tops and jackets in special fabrics like loose woven, crepe, Tencel and linen. A real ‘underdog’ trend is the love that true denim dudes have for unwashed jeans, the rough dark blue cloth that hasn’t been treated. This is the most sustainable choice and in my opinion the movement towards more sustainable options is another trend people shouldn’t underestimate.”

NORBERT M. HINDERBERGER

and you have a lot of contrasts co-existing in a single season. Skinny versus boyfriend cuts, dark blue versus ultra-light washes, raw denim versus extra lightweight, stretch versus rigid, natural indigo dying versus organic, ethical technology… But Denim Première Vision believes in seasonal orientations such as new developments like broken diagonal selvedges, indigo chiffon, ultraopen construction, transparent chambray, organic shapes, colourful marbling and brass coin. In terms of finishing there will be blank spaces, larger stonewash surfacing and clear coatings. One thing’s for sure: the sustainability trend is here to stay. One of the big innovations of recent years that will remain and develop is also the improved springback qualities of stretch materials. The trend of providing adjustments on demand should definitely not be underestimated either. Like with all industrial products now (cars, IT, beauty etc.), consumers want their favourite items to reflect their own personality. And denim, more so than other goods, is always linked to the person wearing it. It’s simple: a pair of good jeans starts with the right fabric of the highest quality. Then washes are of course crucial, along with the perfect cut for a perfect fit. But what’s also very important is finding the perfect details and finishes. It’s the small details that define how the product is positioned.”

TEXTILES & TRENDS – DENIM STATEMENTS

its sell-by date. Although the washes are a lot subtler, they still need to look authentic – that’s what makes all the difference. Straight cuts will also be coming to the fore! Good fits with straight legs and ankle widths of 42 cm have already become real bestsellers. These styles also work best in stiffer fabrics.

Mustang is doing this style in vertical-stretch fabrics for A/W 2017! They look like unstretched fabrics, but offer the ultimate comfort for typical movements like bending, kneeling and sitting. Definitely an underdog!

But the be-all and end-all of a pair of jeans is and remains their fit, no matter which style you go for.”

SALES MANAGER AT CANDIANI DENIM GERMANY

“Talking about trends isn’t easy right now.

As the retail business is so fiercely competitive at the moment, pretty much the whole menu is on offer to secure even the smallest turnovers. But two innovations both in womenswear and menswear seem to be pushing through: bi-stretch denim (or 360° denim), which ensures a perfect fit, meaning that the annoyance of constantly having to pull up super-stretch jeans is now a thing of the past. The second innovation is verticalstretch denim, which has the appearance of classic denim, but the vertical elastic effect allows for comfortable kneeling or sitting down. The yarns for both innovations are made from a combination of cotton, Tencel and DualFX. Sweatpant or jersey denim has lost its relevance, while the skinny silhouette is still going strong. But now it’s being given a modern twist with appliqués and detailing.”

MILLE MONFERIN

OWNER OF MILLEMONFERINCONSULTING

“Polarisation and segmentation are the most dominant trends. Polarisation can be seen between lightweight hyperstretch versus heavier, untreated, authentic denims.

Segmentation is getting stronger, targeting different needs and buying patterns. By merging I mean that fashion is moving in a unisex direction, a very interesting development. When it comes to underdog trends I think that the unisex trend has major growth potential, as the authentic denim look is becoming more accepted. What makes the perfect pair of jeans? Passion for craftsmanship and a brand story that’s aligned with the product.”

DIETMAR AXT “Dominant denim trends? Authentic looks!

Once the elasticity of textiles has been maxed out, the countertrend will follow.

Authentic looks in rigid fabrics are on the way in, joined by more tapered shapes that have to be worn casually turned up. I also think a lot more understated washes will be in demand. It looks like rag-bleaching has passed

PHILIPPE FRIEDMANN DENIM EXPERT AND CONSULTANT AT DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION

“Trends aren’t as simple or mono-focused these days. They represent a huge panorama,

66 — 04/2016

CEO OF MUSTANG

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TEN QUESTIONS FOR – KORNELIUS WERHAHN-MEES, OWNER OF SOUL OBJECTS

TEN QUESTIONS FOR:

Kornelius Werhahn-Mees OWNER OF SOUL OBJECTS

66 — 04/2016

1.

When and how did you come up with the idea for Soul Objects?

I was inspired by my travels, as well as the professional and personal experiences I gained in the more than ten countries I’ve lived in. After graduating with a business degree in London and doing various internships in banks and other financial institutions, it was clear to me that I wasn’t going to be a slave to capital.

Even then, I had the vision of opening a concept store. Finally, after further stops in Barcelona, Naples, Hong Kong, Saarburg and Berlin – so about ten years later and thanks to a long-term, close friendship and kinship to my Soul brother and partner Oliver – the next step was clear: if ever there’s a time, then now. Soul Objects is not just a business. My goal was to create a professional environment for me and my Soul family where we look forward to going to work each day, enter into professional relationships with people we appreciate and respect and work together on a common vision.

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2 Your shop was selected as one of the top 50 concept stores in the world. How do you curate your product portfolio?

We look for extremes, ideally things you can’t find on the German market. Our emphasis is on design, quality, exclusivity and how much ‘soul’ a product brings with it. What people and intentions are behind the product?

What values are conveyed and can we represent them? Is the story behind the item unique or is it just bullshit?

3 What are the pitfalls that most retailers fall into in the long term and what tips would you give them?

Oh God, that’s a very difficult question. But I would say: always keep moving. It’s important to never rest on your laurels. Keep questioning yourself and your performance. Take a step back to get a better perspective of what has been achieved. Just like in matters of love, you need to feed the flame to keep it burning.

4 Your range covers everything from beauty products to porcelain, accessories, interiors and fashion — basically a complete lifestyle world. What are the prerequisites for running your own successful store?

Correct! Soul Objects has no limits. Initially, everything is an object. It’s not important to us what kind of object it is, just whether or not it is beautiful. If so, it needs to meet the remaining criteria defined by us, and either becomes a soul object or doesn’t. With us, each object gets a chance. But I think flexibility and adaptability, combined with a passion for the products are basic prerequisites that were equally necessary in the past.

Nowadays it’s important to be present on the world wide web and to make the most of all the possibilities the internet provides, like online shops.

5 What’s your prognosis for stationary retail?

If you specialise, you are in with a chance...

6 What does the typical Soul Objects customer look like?

There is no such thing. Soul Objects has something for almost every type of customer thanks to the organised chaos that prevails between unusually curated items, new, vintage and antique objects.

7 Are you planning to expand? And if so, where to?

The Soul family and our philosophy is growing continuously and steadily in all directions.

8 If you didn’t have a store, what would you be doing instead?

This question isn’t relevant to me because I’m living my dream...

9 You also write a blog. Why? I just wanted to be one of those bloggers and know how it feels.

10 You’re a Berliner. What other places fascinate you?

First of all, I’m a human being, then a citizen of the world and yes – because I identify strongly with my neighborhood, my children were born here and my wife is a Berliner – I also see myself as a Berliner. Berlin will no doubt remain my base, but my heart will always beat for Naples. Otherwise, my Japanese roots interest me too, so Japan or Canada.

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