J'N'C Magazine 4/2018

No 74 / 4-2018

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WITH PRE-SHRUNK YARN TECHNOLOGY, THE NEW HORIZONâ„¢ DENIM BY NDL WILL REVOLUTIONIZE THE DENIM FITS.

Editorial

J'N'C t o p i C s

Fabrics are smartening uP! trade show sPecial sustainable Production goals

COntRiButORs

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thorsten Osterberger & team

Alexandra Kinga Fekete PhotograPher For J’N’C the photographer and director – well known for her fashion, celebrity and advertising work – shot our techno-fashion series in the style of the Old Masters. Atmospherically recreated in Rembrandt style.

Bernd Wichmann PhotograPher On our quest for exclusive interviews and reports Bernd Wichmann from Düsseldorf is our constant companion. For this edition he accompanied us to Turkey to document our visit to Kilimdenim’s factory in Edirne.

Rüdiger Oberschür Journalist The qualified theatrical scientist and journalist writes passionately about fashion, design, architecture and lifestyle. He introduces us to three bang up-to-date fashion labels to watch out for.

MiCHAEl MANN

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We fish the plastic from the oceans to make shoes, harvest excess seaweed and algae and use the fibres for fabrics. We transform waste products like pineapple and banana skins into materials that are both sustainable and comfortable to wear. Our sweatshirts monitor our heartbeats, our windbreakers ensure that we neither sweat nor freeze, our sneakers count our footsteps and alert us when we aren´t moving enough. Brave new world, indeed.

We can conjure up all kinds of utopias, but what is the real status quo in terms of high-tech materials, wearables, sustainable fashion, recycling and upcycling? What kind of an impact will the digital revolution have on the world of fashion? And will it be 2020 or rather 2030 when all these things become a reality? For our interview series, J´N´C spoke to the experts who should know.

In our feature article, journalist and author Björn Lüdtke – founder of the online portal “How Fashion Ticks” – is highlighting the current development stage of wearables, high-tech and organic fabrics, recycling and upcycling, as well as other interesting projects from a wide range of labels and manufacturers who have chosen to make sustainability their top priority.

Also for this issue, our exclusively produced reports took us to Edirne in the European part of Turkey, where we found a surprisingly rural and idyllic scene on our visit to the Kilimdenim factory. And while we were in the country we also stopped by Inegöl, where we visited the Isko headquarters.

We also took a closer look at the latest denim fabric trends – beautiful and sustainable fabrics by Calik Denim, Orta Anadolu, Kilimdenim, Bossa, Baykanlar, Candiani and Naveena Denim presented by Katharina Willim and Andreas Knaub.

PLUS: Most Wanted – Our current favourite outerwear and functional pieces. Streetstyle and Sportswear – Material mixes portrayed in the style of Old Masters. Tradeshow Special – The most important dates on the trade fair calendar. Trend Essay – Brands to watch: A-Cold-Wall, Facetasm and Snow Peak, as recommended by German fashion journalist Rüdiger Oberschür. 10 Questions – An interview with fashion designer Christopher Raeburn, currently one of the most sought-after designers for collaborations.

We hope you enjoy reading this new issue,

I never thought about working at somewhere else.

All those time, we never had an argument, we never broke each others hearts.

Mikail Görücü

A memeber of KLIMDENIM family since 24 years

contents 12

EDITORIAL

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CONTENTS

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Bits & Pieces: NEWS ON KINGS OF INDIGO, ARMEDANGELS, CHEAP MONDAY, DAWN DENIM AND PHYNE

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most WanteD MUST-HAVES & FAVOURITES

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essay: the future of fabrics interviews: WE TALKED TO THREE EXPERTS ABOUT FABRIC INNOVATIONS

fashion shoot: manufacturers´ fabric trenDs interview: ISKO

Label to watch, p58

WE TALKED TO FATIH KONUKO Ğ LU, CEO OF TURKISH TEXTILE MANUFACTURER AND DISTRIBUTOR ISKO

Fashion shoot: manufacturers´ denim trends, p40

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feature: KILIMDENIM THE TURKISH DENIM MANUFACTURER OPENS ITS DOORS TO SHOW US THEIR SUSTAINABLE FABRIC PLANT

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laBels to watch: SNOWPEAK, A-COLD-WALL AND FACETASM ARE ON TREND

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cover Photography: Andreas Knaub Styling: Katharina Willim Make-up: Katharina Handel Set-Design: Ulrich Gaehler Model: Thialda Bok

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traDeshoWs: all relevant Dates at a glance feature: 080 BARCELONA NEW TALENTS SPOTTED AT THE SPANISH FASHION FAIR

fashion shoot: techno is my religion ten questions: A QUICK CHAT WITH DESIGNER CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

Publisher EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Liesegangstraße 17 40211 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211.830 30 Fax +49 (0)211.830 32 00

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info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de Publishing management Nikola Köster, Kathrin Wimber associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

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eDitorial DePartment Chausseestraße 116 10115 Berlin Germany eDitor-in-chief Thorsten Osterberger t.osterberger@jnc-net.de art Director Ivo Wojcik chief subeDitor Cloat Gerold eDitors Cheryll Mühlen, Renée Diehl, Aylin Yavuz (Assistant)

coPy eDitors Cloat Gerold, Galina Green contributors Björn Lüdtke, Rüdiger Oberschür PhotograPhy Alexandra Kinga Fekete, Andreas Knaub / Katharina Willim, se7entyn9ne, Bernd Wichmann translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de

aDvertising Director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211.830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de bank Details BTV Bank für Tirol und Vorarlberg AG IBAN DE25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 SWIFT BTVADE61XXX Price Germany 15.50 EUR Rest of Europe 17.50 EUR Switzerland 20.00 CHF Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern

Data Protection notice In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The subscriber can appeal against this guideline.

We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, contents, clothing or products.

The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business is Düsseldorf and the place of jurisdiction is Munich in all cases.

LOGOTYPE: MARTIN STEINIGEN; PHOTOS: BERND WICHMANN, ANDREAS KNAUB, IMAXTREE

Factory visit: Kilimdenim, p52

bits & pieces

bits pieces Best Of BOth wOrlds

TExT renèe Diehl

Kings of indigo Sustainable denim brand Kings of Indigo is offering us the best of both worlds for the SS19 season with a combo of modern design and longlasting materials. Important trend looks include a checkerboard print, classic checks, experimental silhouettes and fifties-inspired West Coast looks. In addition to indigo blue, green, yellow and red dominate the colour palette.

Kingsofindigo.com

upCyCled wOrkwear

armedangels The pre-spring 2019 collection by the eco and fair fashion label is all about contrasts. Laid-back is the order of the day here: retro and athleisure influences like statement colours and block stripes meet bohemian looks with romantic prints and warm colours – and, as usual, all made of sustainable materials like organic cotton or Tencel.

cheap monday The sustainability lab of Swedish fashion brand C/O by Cheap Monday releases a capsule collection once a year. For its upcoming launch, the focus was on the upcycling of old workwear. They have come up with a line of workwearinspired jackets, chinos, sweatshirts, T-shirts and a shopper that saves raw materials, emissions, water and chemicals. Eco fashion at its best!

armedangels.de

cheapmonday.com

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COOl COntrasts

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Kuyichi Next summer is going to be as colourful as the rainbow. With Dutch fashion designer Antoine Peters, denim label Kuyichi has brought a head of design on board who certainly has a flair for patterns and graphics.

His first collection will be based on the label’s namesake – the Peruvian god of the rainbow – and features the rainbow visual in the silhouettes, prints and material. Expect lots of open stitching and hems on show.

bits & pieces

deliCate details

heavenly denim

Kuyichi.com

goldgarn denim The makers of the German label based in Mannheim look back on 40 years of denim experience and rely on traditional, handcrafted methods.

In doing so, they attach great importance to a sustainable production process, the careful use of

natural resources and an ethical value chain. Some jeans from the collection, which features lots of love worth details like leather loops, decorative seams, embroidery and inside prints, are made in over 250 individual steps and handles.

goldgarndenim.de

summer fOOtwear with a twist inuiKii For SS19 Inuikii Men, head designer and label co-founder Alessandro reinvented the classic slides with a fresh approach that is very much in love with colour combinations. Men get to choose between four models (slip-on, back-strap, mix-strap and a classic reinvented sandal) and no less than 23 different styles. As always, the shoes come with a molded foot bed covered by the best Italian materials. inuiKii.com

hummel For SS19, Danish brand Hummel is getting back to its sportswear heritage and taking inspiration from various cult fan and archive looks. Important styles here include football-inspired, colourcontrasting necklines, experiments with different proportions, logos and block colours. But the brand never forgets where it comes from and is staying true to its Scandinavian design roots.

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reinvented Cult pieCes

hummel.net/hummelsport.de

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bits & pieces bits & pieces

Bright, Brighter, Brightest

viBrant lOOks

essentiel antwerp Go big or go home: For the Belgian fashion label everything in its pre-spring 2019 collection revolves around colours, patterns and clashes. Light tones are being mixed with darker nuances and vivid highlights in pink and rose are making statements, not to mention floral prints, stripes and checks, which can also be combined. Key pieces: the collection is dominated by bows, oversized outerwear and wide-leg trousers and jeans.

essentiel-antwerp.com

dawn denim At Dawn Denim the key words for SS19 are sustainability and nineties: In keeping with their commitment to sustainability, the #lowimpact line now makes up around 50 percent of the collection. The nineties reference comes from a girl-power look with vibrant colours like lilac, yellow, electric blue and red, and is also expressed in robust, fussfree fabrics, retro washes and details such as braces. dawndenim.com

BasiCs – fOundatiOn Of every style phyne.com

neOn eyeCandy sandqvist The Urban Outdoor Rucksack is being given a colour makeover for SS19: the new navy/ off-white colourway with contrasting details in neon gold is sure to turn heads. In terms of design, they are sticking to metal hook fasteners and characteristic leather patches. Good-looking and sustainable: thanks to waterproof Cordura EcoMade, the backpack is suitable for the great outdoors; its lining is made of 100 percent recycled polyester.

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phyne “Basics make the difference” is the maxim of young German label Phyne, that is willing to go the extra mile for a better future, mainly by continuing its focus on high-quality, sustainable and durable wardrobe staples for the upcoming SS19 collection. All

of the materials used in their production are certified and therefore comply with internationally recognised textile standards like GOTS, Amorfi and Oeko-Tex. The looks are always modern and stand out with their figureenhancing silhouettes.

JOACHIM BALDAUF

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sandqvist.com

PhotograPhy & styliNg SE7ENTYN9NE ProDUCtioN & text ThorSTEN oSTErbErgEr

most wanted

livbergen.de J'N'C PreseNts

Trend fabrics, iT-Pieces, MusT-Haves, favouriTes

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StripeS – the new StarS

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Whether horizontal or vertical, wide or narrow: in the coming season, side stripes will be the superstars on tops, dresses and trousers. German brand Liv Bergen, a label for whom jersey takes centre stage, is showing that this feel-good material can look chic as well as casual. The collection combines influences from the 60s, 70s and 80s, retro patterns and colours ranging from red and violet to pink. bringing it bang up to date, high-tech sportswear materials are also incorporated. our highlight: the camel coloured trackpants with contrasting purple knitted stripes that add the perfect flourish and also make your legs look longer.

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most wanted

g-lab.com

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the perfect performer

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Thanks to innovative materials, winter clothes can nowadays also look the part on cool summer evenings. Just like the ‘supreme Weatherwear’ collection by G-lab where temporary design meets high-tech and high-quality workmanship results in truly sustainable quality. a faithful companion all year round is the blue parka with understated colour contrasts. innovative materials convince with breathable, waterproof and windproof properties. The new cotton blend outer material with a matt finish has a pleasantly soft feel and the colour contrasting lining is not only a real eye-catcher, but also comes equipped with a quick-dry function.

featuring Emily Ratajkowski and Neymar Jr.

since 2014, the berlin-based brand arys has become one of the most innovative young clothing labels. Their outerwear collections are always functional and impress with minimal designs. fabric innovations like ‘origami Knit’, ‘coated Tech-Knit’ and ‘Kerora 11 Layer’ satisfy

even the most discerning tastes. almost all the materials used are breathable, stretchable, antibacterial and offer uv protection. our favourite is a mix of casual streetwear and functional sportswear: the canary-yellow sweater, a true performer through and through.

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most wanted

Go athLeiSure!

aboutarys.com 24

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most wanted

we Love canada!

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for summer 2019, the luxurious brand moose Knuckles is concentrating on its north american roots and drawing inspiration from canada’s best graphic designs from the 1960s and 70s. The ‘summer of 67’ homage to the golden era of graphic design is being projected onto outdoor designs and adds retro charm to the collection, while technical fabrics as well as cropped and oversized cuts give the designs a contemporary look. The padded rain parka made of combat twill bridges the seasons perfectly. and we also love the two different red tones in Tetris-style.

mooseknucklescanada.com 26

Kingpins Amsterdam // April 10 - 11 Kingpins New York // June 5 - 6 Kingpins Hong Kong // May 15 - 16 www.kingpinsshow.com

The German brand merz b. Schwanen brought out their first knitwear collection under the new management of Peter and Gitta Plotnicki in 2011. Tops and trousers, densely woven with a robust feel, quickly met with great approval.

Previously having focused on menswear only,

the label is now developing a ladies’ summer collection with basics such as jumpers, cardigans, jogging pants and accessories like scarves and hats. The pieces, in a delicate colour palette of grey, melange and powdery pastel tones, are already available.

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most wanted

aLL Good!

merzbschwanen.com 28

14. – 17. 5. 2019 Frankfurt am Main

Leading International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Space for Innovation

in parallel with:

fashion, Technology and susTainabiliT y

Fashion, technology & sustainability:

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imaxTree

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a combined eFFort to save the environment

The worlds of fashion, technology and sustainability haven’t been friends for long – but they are now growing and developing together, which is resulting in some extraordinary innovations. Some of which are making our lives easier and healthier, while others are even attempting to solve the problems caused by the fashion industry for our planet.

fashion, Technology and susTainabiliT y

e s s ay

TexT björn lüdtke

Customers are starting to demand stylish tech.

The latest models of the Snapchat spectacles look more refined than the earlier ones. Or take the soon to be launched Sakhi, a smart bracelet that features the usual fitness tracker, a kid tracker or Alexa voice commands. What makes it special is that it respects the customers’ desire for more fashionable wearables. It can be customised with beads and charms from other brands such as Pandora.

One of the major problems for wearables is where they source their power. They need to be small and light to make sense and be fun to wear. On the other hand, the energy supply needs to last as long as possible. From smartphones we know that this is a contradiction. Matrix Industries have introduced the PowerWatch, which is powered by thermoelectric energy harvesting, a system that basically generates energy from the difference between the body temperature and the back of the watch. The bigger the difference, the more energy can be harvested. The PowerWatch never needs to be charged.

We are surrounded by textiles. We wear them all day, most of us at night and even if you sleep naked, you’ll likely be covered by sheets. So why not make them smart and let them give us support for an easier and healthier life? Like the yoga pants by Wearable X with sensors that identify the pose you’re in and will give you tangible feedback on what part of your body you should focus on, “just like a yoga teacher, providing a touch of pressure”. Or the T-shirt from Cardioskin (currently under development) that

can help to protect people from having a stroke.

And the new underwear called Carin for women suffering from the onset of incontinence, which helps them to achieve pelvic floor strength in order to eliminate leakage.

Emel + Aris is a London-based label that was founded in 2015 “to create luxury fashion staples enhanced by cutting-edge technology” – fashiontech that fits in with the contemporary wardrobe of the modern-day businesswoman or man. Their smart coats are heated by FIR (far infrared) which doesn’t just heat surfaces like wired heating, the heat is also absorbed by the body and warms the muscles. According to Emel + Aris, FIR is the healthiest type of heat on the spectrum and has long been associated with wellbeing – it reduces pain, increases muscle flexibility, stimulates and apparently helps to detoxify. And even if you don’t believe any of that, it’ll still keep you warm.

So wearables are fun and increasingly stylish and smart textiles help us live a better life. But what we really want to know is: how can new technologies be used to make the world a better place? We have all heard it so many times before: the fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world. Let’s save ourselves the details, but the bottom line is: we’re pigs. And even though we’re talking about it all the time, only a fragment of clothes are sustainable, or upcycled, or whatever it is that we need to do to save resources.

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ot too long ago, people from the worlds of fashion, sustainability and technology regarded each other as different species with different priorities. But that is changing. Younger generations in particular are taking a closer look at what we are doing to our planet. They are starting to understand the concept of equity as a form of responsibility towards future generations. In addition, technology is becoming increasingly important in our lives and, inevitably, in fashion. Above all the tech train is picking up speed. But what is the status quo when it comes to technology and sustainability in fashion? What is happening now and what might happen in the future?

Fashiontech is widely associated with wearables, gadgets and dresses with flashing lights.

But “a flashing dress is a one-trick pony,” says Thomas Gnahm, CEO and founder of the Wear It Festival in Berlin that revolves around wearable fashion. “Wearables should be fun, but the technology needs to be in place and work.

No touchscreens, nothing that pops up – that’s old-school.” Remember Google Glasses? Even über-cool Diane von Fürstenberg couldn’t make them look hot. Priti Moudgill is a co-founder of the start-up company Peripherii. “Consumers will reject great technology if it comes at a high social cost.” And by social cost she means the ridicule you have to suffer when wearing a gadget that simply looks ridiculous. That is why they came up with a hearable (makes phone calls or whispers alerts) that looks like a fashionable earring rather than a piece of tech.

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The problem is that you won’t be able to change an entire industry overnight with structures and processes that have evolved since industrialisation. Every part of the supply and value chain needs to be rewired and there is still a lot to be done. The good news? There are plenty of people out there who want to make a change.

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he denim industry is known for being particularly dirty. Özge Özsoy is head of marketing at Turkish denim manufacturer Bossa and had the following to say on the topic: “Textile processing has a very high water and energy consumption, and a large amount of wastewater discharge. However, the industry works hard to achieve a balance between economic development and environmental protection. Conservation of water resources and the environment have become key issues of concern in textile manufacturing. At Bossa we are still working on sustainable concepts. For the SS20 collection we are aiming at 100 percent sustainable denim, which we call Future Denim – by combining sustainable fibres and dyeing techniques we are creating the denim of the future.”

At Kilimdenim, measures are also being taken to become cleaner. In the words of Dilek Erik: “One of our ongoing projects right now is to forgo sodium dithionite in the indigo dyeing process. With the help of this project, the amount of sulphate salt accumulated in wastewater and released into the environment will be brought to zero. That means we don’t add toxic waste to the nature that surrounds us. This practice started with the fabrics manufactured for G-Star and will be introduced in Kilimdenim’s SS20 collections. Another important project is to replace the starch that is produced during the sizing of the fibre, which also pollutes the environment.

Instead, we plan to use a chemical that is produced on our premises. This project will reduce the pollution and the amount of water used will also be decreased by 50 percent.”

Recycling is another option in making denim and its production greener. Candiani is considered to be one of the most sustainable denim manufacturers. Its marketing manager MaryKate Kelley, says: “At Candiani recycling is a priority.

100 percent of our waste from the spinning, dyeing and weaving process is recycled: 50 percent is re-spun into yarn and the other 50 percent is upcycled into insulation for housing and cars. In addition, Candiani uses its re-spun yarns to create its GRS-approved denim line with our recycled yarn range.”

nd what if we could use a material that we basically want to get rid of anyway?

10xBeta call themselves a “product design and engineering firm working in robotics, mobility, consumer electronics, medical devices and the internet of things.” One of their projects is “the shoe without a footprint”, where they literally invented “a shoe out of thin air”, made of a polyurethane that in turn is gained from CO² (it’s still a prototype).

The goal? A circular economy. But how does Critics say that recycling only solves parts of the that work in practice? Just look at nature – and problem because further resources such as fuel try to leave mankind out of the equation. Nothing ever goes to waste. Large animals eat small for transport are being used. Ecoalf, a brand animals. Whatever goes into their mouths with its headquarters in Madrid, is reacting to comes out of the other end, functioning as ferthis. One of their products, the Shao sneaker, tiliser for the soil in which plants grow – which is made completely out of plastic sourced from in turn get eaten by other animals, pollinated the ocean. The idea is to waste as little as posby bees… and so on. It would be a perfect system sible in terms of extra resources. The plastic if only it weren’t for us human beings. Our ecowaste, including old fishing nets, is collected nomy is linear. We produce, we consume, we by fishermen who are going out to sea anyway. discard. The result: landfill.

The plastic they bring back is broken down in Which is a problem Reebok is trying to tackle. smaller pieces and then processed into yarn in Since autumn 2018 the sports brand has been sites close to the ports. Javier Goyeneche is the selling almost completely biodegradable sneakpresident and founder of Ecoalf. He says that it ers. The idea behind it is that even if you recycle takes 17 chemical steps to get from petrol to a plastic, it’s still plastic and you’re not getting rid comparable non-recycled synthetic. From an old fishing net to the recycled fabric they use at of the problem. The goal is therefore to remove rubber and plastic and replace them with natural Ecoalf it takes only take seven steps.

Upcycling describes the process of the transfor- resources that grow back, like corn. Their “Cotton + Corn” sneakers are made of 100 percent mation of by-products, waste materials, useless, cotton uppers and a bio-based sole from a cornor unwanted products into new materials or based plastic substitute. They have an insole products of better quality or for better environmade of castor bean oil, the fabrics that make up mental value. This can happen in a small backthe shoe are undyed, and the packaging that the yard studio where designers turn second-hand shoe comes in is made from recycled materials. clothes into new, more fashionable garments.

Soon, it will not only be the materials that we Or take the Mimycri project, for example, that actually wear on our skin that will cover us. turns broken rubber boats from refugees into high-quality bags and backpacks – employing the There will also be a digital layer. Clothes already communicate who you are – or who you want refugees and sharing the profits in the process. to be. Whatever the Hololens from Microsoft aw materials that are available in nature can do might soon be integrated in your reguin abundance and re-grow quickly, like lar spectacle frames with information being displayed on the inside. It will no longer be a disnettles or algae, are also becoming increasingly popular. You can even use ruption – it will be integrated into what you do.

What you wear physically might not matter as milk as a basis to make textile filaments. Even much as what will be perceived by others. You more popular: raw materials that are by-products (and do not compete with the cultivation of might not be wearing your heart on your sleeve, but your Twitter, Facebook or Instagram will be crops). Dutch designer Billie van Katwijk uses fully visible. Different people might be seeing cow stomachs for the handbags of her label Ventri; meanwhile Israeli designer Sahara Liane different things, depending on who looks at you: your boss (sees a responsible adult) your partner uses animal blood as a dye. Admittedly, these (sees someone ready for a night out on the tiles). projects lean more towards the experimental.

With textiles becoming more or less obsolete Using coffee grounds and banana plants as a basis for fibres is a more commercial approach. in this scenario, would this be the most sustainable solution of them all?

Orange Fiber is an Italian start-up that generTechnology is changing at an exponential rate ates fibre from citrus-juice by-products. Their but organisations that ought to adapt do not first client was Salvatore Ferragamo who used change at the same speed. To keep this planet a the material to make a capsule collection.

At Bolt Threads in California, bioengineering is place worth living, it is vital that developments in used to produce a fibre that resembles silk in its fashion, technology and sustainability go hand in feel and durability, using yeast, sugar and water. hand. As we have already seen, it’s a puzzle – an invention to save water here, new biodegradable The project is still in the R&D phase but Stella materials there. It’s important to share knowlMcCartney has already used prototypes for selected pieces of her collection. Modern Meadow edge and learn from each other to speed up the process and to create solutions that are greater is another biotech start-up in New Jersey that grows animal-free leather in a lab. It’s called Zoa, than the sum of their parts.

imaxTree

fashion, Technology and susTainabiliT y

IT’S IMPORTANT TO SHARE KNOWLEDGE AND LEARN FROM EACH OTHER TO SPEED UP THE SUSTAINABILITY PROCESS AND TO CREATE SOLUTIONS THAT ARE GREATER THAN THE SUM OF THEIR PARTS

looks and performs like leather (and on a biological level it is leather) but is created through a process of DNA editing that grows collagen from yeast. It can be grown to mimic any kind of leather – from calfskin to alligator. Zoa starts as a liquid and thus offers whole new opportunities when it comes to designing, in comparison to the limitations of pieces of cowhide. The first products are planned for 2019.

The change of fashion is now.

INTERVIEWs by ThorsTen osTerberger & cloaT gerold

interviews

simon angel

Curator SuStainable innovationS M U n i C H FA B r i C s tA r t

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What is the current share of sustainable fabrics in the global fashion industry?

I notice from the places that I visit that the share of sustainable fabrics is growing. sometimes stimulated by global tendencies and trends, sometimes because of changing company values and strategies but most important is ‘the voice of demand’. I hear this voice everywhere I go. And this is the most hopeful sound you can get when it comes to the stimulus to switch to sustainability. The second part is ‘the new generation’. Design courses and (technical) universities are incorporating sustainability from the get-go.

Put these tendencies together and you get a clear picture of the future: exponential growth will be inevitable. how high is the proportion of exhibitors regarding sustainable fabrics in the context of munich Fabric start?

The number of designers and buyers looking for sustainable fabrics is increasing from season to season. Accordingly, the range of products our exhibiting partners are offering is becoming more comprehensive and qualitatively more sophisticated. The sensitivity and awareness of sustainability is growing. We are supporting this with a dedi-

cated and competitive team and also with the HighTex Award, the specially initiated Innovation Award of outstanding achievements for future-proofed and resourcesaving products and process solutions.

Which materials currently have the edge in terms of sustainability – organic or artificial fibres?

Use and re-use of living material is expanding. Examples in leather like materials made of recycled bioplastic dyed with cow-blood or cattle by-products, or the redefinition of bovine stomachs then transformed into authentic and unique leather products, great!

Fabrics made out of ceramics might seem like a paradox but in fact it is a clever and beautiful marriage with excellent material characteristics used for challenging climate conditions for example. More and more I see students studying the creation process, the sourcing of materials, transportation etc. In short: there is a focus on the process and the chain.

What do you forecast for the future in this regard?

I am an optimist and a realist. There is certainly a change in attitude. And the key word is connection. Many micro-steps, from the

sources, to the factory, to the market and finally to the end consumer, can be reviewed and transformed in ‘a good way’. by doing this I forecast what I call: ‘the chain of goods’. Designers, manufacturers, retailers, consumers, they will all sharpen up their acts in terms of sustainability, change their attitudes. The value of materials, fabrics, textiles and garments will change on this point as well. This will influence the industry. how do you think more manufacturers, designers and retailers could be convinced to switch to sustainable fabrics?

The best approach is seduction. Munich Fabric Start shows different options on how to get smart about it. The Keyhouse has created its own area of trendsetting sustainable innovations. There is plenty of interest in the topic, as the last Munich Fabric Start has shown. A convincing indication of how we are on the right track. That shows us how important knowledge and information are.

We inspire the industry by sharing knowledge and latest developments in the studios all over the world and we try to connect people. In the end we all have the same goal: creating a better world and reaping the benefits.

PETER sTEl

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The trade fair Munich Fabric Start already dealt with sustainable fabrics at an early stage and is now looking forward to supporting every step of the further development with a dedicated and competitive team.

interviews

Fabio adami dalla Val marina couTelan

ConSultant & Show Manager DeniM P re Mière visiOn

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What is the current share of sustainable fabrics in the global fashion industry? how do you estimate the growth of this segment in the next decade?

FABiO & MArinA We are in an interesting phase because the industry has finally realised that we need to move forward with the creation of responsible products and processes. Even if most of the players are working on the subject, the effective impact is still minimal.

In the last three years since we started our Smart Creation project, the growth has been massive and irreversible. In the next ten years we expect the major players to move towards 100% sustainable production. how high is the proportion of exhibitors at Première Vision that focus on sustainable fabrics?

At Denim Première Vision, 80% of the exhibitors are on the case, but the real impact on the collections is around 20%. With Première Vision Paris, we would estimate similar figures even if the number of exhibitors is actually bigger and therefore the impact on the industry is too.

Please give us an overview of the most exciting innovations on the fabric market that can be seen at Première Vision.

As we can’t think about product innovation without pairing it with responsible companies and production, we realised there is a big movement in the supply chain to create and develop new factories and invest in existing ones. There is actually a huge interest in fibres with players like Asahi kasei, Cupro, Evrnu, Frumat and Nuo The New ligneah creating new solutions that will give the supply chain the chance to create responsible products in the direction of the circular economy.

There is also a big movement to produce natural fibres in a sustainable (i.e. ecological and ethical) way. Here we can mention Ananas Anam (Pinatex) and Focus. Regarding fabrics, in the dedicated Smart Square at the september edition of Première Vision Paris, we presented a wide range of concrete innovations. olivenleder presented green solutions for leather production with the use of natural metal-free tannins, as well as Recyc leather and many others.

The denim industry is facing quite a few challenges and one of the most important is selecting the companies that already work in a responsible way according to what is possible now. The main challenge is obviously

FaShion Manager DeniM P re Mière visiOn

the improvement in the use of indigo dyes (Naveeva, Evlox, berto...) and the selection of better fibres. We also have good news where the finishes are concerned, with chemical companies like soko Chimica developing not only new products but also new processes for more effective use.

Which materials currently have the edge in terms of sustainability – organic or synthetic materials?

Recycling existing materials is the most effective way to be sustainable as we still have a long way to go when it comes to creating better products in the coming decades. on the other hand, the most interesting innovations and research are in biopolymers, which are the most sustainable innovative options that we can see for the future. Research in bacteria is also very important, even if it is still at an early stage, but we can foresee a huge implementation in this direction. how can more people within the industry be convinced to switch to sustainable fabrics?

We need to insist on an educational approach, sharing the message and presenting the best-case stories, as we are doing at Première Vision Paris and Denim Première Vision with the Smart Creation platform.

IgoR RobINET slANsky

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The trade fairs Première Vision Paris and Denim Première Vision are showcasing sustainable fabrics and innovative production processes with their Smart Creation platform.

They want to educate, share knowledge and connect people – all for a cleaner industry.

interviews

rashid iqbal

Naveena Denim Ltd (NDL) in Pakistan has become one of the most prestigious firms in the denim industry due to their extensive research, development activities and sound marketing strategies. NDL is constantly working on new solutions that enable the company to use as much sustainable fibre as possible.

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exeCutive DireCtor n Av e e n A D e n i M Lt D

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can you please describe Pakistan’s locational situation in terms of denim production. What are its special advantages?

Pakistani denim is not so much ‘different’ but the combination of its mills, superior cotton and location in the global supply chain makes it unique in the denim world.

As a country Pakistan is unique in being able to offer not only the best cotton but it also boasts some of the best denim mills in the world. best for both innovation and quality at competitive prices. Pakistan is also best placed to supply this quality volume to the cutters of choice in close countries such as bangladesh, sri lanka and Egypt and onwards to their customer brands in Europe and the UsA. What is ndl´s overall philosophy when it comes to production ethics?

NDL has a unique and real commitment to consistent quality above all else. Whilst at the same time showcasing the right development at the right time to meet the trend needs of the demanding brand market. being one of very few partner suppliers to levi’s puts us in a privileged position, which we value and take very seriously – our roles of being both a trend leader and a supplier of quality. NDL understands its own social responsibility. From day one NDL focused

on sustainability and explored ways to save natural resources.

What exactly are your contributions to the sustainable production of fabrics?

NDL has focused on process and material and has a wide range of eco green fabrics.

For example Advance Denim Concept by Archroma, PCW material. Waterless finishing with Jeanologia g2 ozone finishing. NDL is also certified by goTs & oCs to produce a wide range of organic fabrics.

What are the current top denim trends and what developments do you predict for the foreseeable future?

Whilst vintage in all its forms is a trend that is always there in some form, what we are seeing now is a ‘vintage plus’ trend. That is vintage with softness: with performance fibres, fits with attitude for 21st century purposes. Performance in denim is also now in high demand due to the multifaceted lifestyles of our consumers. Performance in super high stretch and four-way stretch, performance in function such as moisture management and temperature control to name but two performance attributes our denims can lay claim to. one important trend to watch is lighter more fluid denim, which plays to the fashion denim user for shirts, dresses and voluminous shapes. Add-

ing Tencel to lighter denims achieves such fluidity, unachievable with any other fibre.

What new trends would you personally love to see come into being? being within the industry we see everything and therefore believe that nothing is “missing” but what ends up in the market is driven by price so there is a great deal of the original denim soul missing to the consumer.

If the consumer could have access to more authentic denim with comfort stretch, vintage detail such as selvedge, in dark indigo shades and super fits it would spark a new interest in real denim rather than the simple stretch fabrics in blue that proliferate on the market today.

Which state-of-the-art high-tech and organic fibres are going to shape the future of denim and which of them are you already using?

We use Tencel in a number of our products to achieve softness and fluidity in stretch denims. This creates a unique look and feel. Tencel also being a ‘green’ fibre fits with NDL’s drive to use as much sustainable fibre as possible. We are offering a range of denims made with the Japanese Myabi fibre, which apparently is the softer fibre with performance, and we are also producing a line of tough denim with a cotton-Dyneema blend.

What new projects are in the pipeline right now at ndl? our challenge is to be ahead of the mass market, therefore we only talk about new products when they are ready, but you can rest assured that we will not only follow trends, but also try to influence the denim market of the future with new yarn technologies, fibres and, of course, dyeing technics.

The new Jeanologia ozone finish is taking us into a completely new era.

14. – 17. 5. 2019 Frankfurt am Main

Leading International Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials

Space for Progress in parallel with: powered by:

fashion

photography

aD / styling

AndreAs KnAub

KAThArinA WilliM

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The Magic of fuTure

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Beautiful and durable: Some of the most important players of the global denim industry present the latest developments in the fabric market for SS20

make-up

ulrich GAehler

KAThArinA hAndel

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set Design

CANDIANI

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D res s

Tibi e a rri n g s MAriA blAcK

The fabrics of the Ink – Stay Raw Denim product family are dyed with N-Denim: even after washing the product numerous times at home, it keeps its raw look.

A further plus: the special water saving ingredient Kitotex® – for which Candiani Denim holds the exclusive license in denim production – is used in the dyeing and washing process.

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fashion

ORTA ANADOlu

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Archive Chronicles encapsulates 65 years of weaving stories through Orta´s fabrics, about the past, present and future of denim. Though sustainability and technology are the driving forces of the company, vintage remains very much at its heart and soul.

There was therefore a natural synergy in working with The Vintage Showroom. Orta returns to its archive to find meaningful models that they can carry into the new sustainable future. A future that is meant to start now.

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Lef t: s u i t MonKi s h o es sTev e MAdden dryberG/ Kern copenhAGen r ight: D res s iv y & oAK

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e a rri n g

NAveeNA DeNIm

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Naveena is using a finishing technique called G2 that uses ozone gas and saves up to 90% more water than conventional finishing processes. Due to the advanced coloration process of denim by Archroma, which saves up to 45% of water and 11% of energy as well as producing 12% less carbon footprint than conventional dyeing processes, Naveena can produce beautiful denim hues like Swiss Brown and Camel Brown.

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The Weaveland concept is Calik’s answer to the consumer’s need of more rustic and bohemian looks. Best for loose fit jeans, the fabrics are also a great choice for dresses and skirts. Sustainable plus: the innovative technique Mill Wash saves water while providing fabrics with heavy-washed effects without washing the jeans after finishing.

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fashion

KARve by bAyKANlAR

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Karve is a cutting-edge jeans brand from Scandinavia. With its attention to detail it develops fits and shapes of supreme quality. From the beginning Karve has been focusing on being a responsible and sustainable new-school denim brand. Sophisticated fabrics, innovative washing techniques and a continuous focus on making every step better takes us closer to being a more sustainable jeans brand.

Lef t: J e a n s

K Arv e by bAyK A nlAr s h o es sTev e MAdden KinGs of indiGo e a rri n g s dryberG/ Kern copenhAGen

r ight: D en i m Jac k e t

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fashion bOssA

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Denim has undergone a reinvention, back to old-school denim roots. Heritage is inspired by old school denims and traditional authentic fabric constructions.

The Tencel- blended heritage denim Lamarcus Blues is bringing on a variety of summery blue hues and indigo shades at every stage of washing.

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KIlImDeNIm

D res s

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club MonAco

s t y l i n g a s s i s ta n t s a b r i n a ro M M e l ; m o D el T h i a l da b o k @ i c e m o D el s

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The production of these two fabrics (rigid/stretch) in collaboration with G-Lab of the Re-Create collection, planned for SS19, is aiming to forgo the use of sodium dithionite in the new generation of indigo dyeing, avoiding the production of toxic waste.

ISKO In T ervIeW

DenIM IS a WOrK Of arT “To produce is to take care” – that´s the mantra the ISKO family surrounding CeO Fatih Konukoğlu follows each day.

In one of his rare interviews, we spoke to him about the clean and transparent future of the denim industry.

InTervIeW Pierre D’AvetA TexT Cheryll Mühlen phOTOGraphy bernD wiChMAnn

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114 yearS Of experIence ISKO is part of Sanko Tekstil, the textile division of Sanko Group.

The story began in 1904, when Sani Konukoğlu founded the company with a single handloom. In 1989 they opened their manufacturing plant, covering 300,000 m², making ISKO the world’s largest denim manufacturer under one roof. With 1,700 high-tech automated looms, global distribution of employees and production capacity of 250 million metres of fabric annually, the portfolio includes more than 25,000 products.

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ith a wide range of cutting-edge textile solutions, ISKO is a pioneer of responsible innovation, determined to constantly provide a sustainable denim production. “I am proud of what we have created together,” Fatih Konukoğlu says – with good reason.

Mr Konukoğlu, what makes denim iconic?

Denim, more than any other piece of clothing, lives with people. It adapts and transforms itself, according to every style and occasion. This is why at ISKO we are committed to making denim happen everywhere, for everyone, making it better and turning it into people’s second skin. For us, denim is so much more than just an indigo fabric: it is a work of art and denim intelligence. is this way of respect and understanding for the fabric iSKO’s recipe to become the world’s leading denim manufacturer?

Well, we combine competence, creativity

and citizenship. These are the key ingredients of our approach. We like to think of ourselves as a full-power denim force from the ground up: the creative services, the mentors, the trend researchers, the fabric engineers, the laundry experts, the designers and the network of excellence. Our strategy is further shaped by our ‘think tanks’, which are dedicated to service innovation. But when it comes to creating denim, people are our focus: we strive to understand and predict what people want. you once said, “the world is wearing denim, so we know with our choices we can make a difference.” how does iSKO live up to the ever-evolving high standards of sustainable production?

We believe it is our responsibility as industry leader to set new standards and lead the way towards a better future, being an active example for both customers and partners. We want to be accountable for all of our business

ISKO

everybody not only needs to know what they are buying and what they are using but they have the right to do so. The consumer should understand what they are wearing and using and how it has been made. ISKO is the first denim mill in the world to have obtained precertified epD®s for all of its products. That’s an achievement that is not limited to the company itself. It is a result that will be used to create the independently devised product Category rules (pCrs) for future denim industry epD®s. This will help to provide a common language across the industry and therefore increase transparency of environmental impact, enhance consumer awareness and drive environmental improvement. where is iSKO headed in the future?

We are continuously exploring new paths. In terms of activities, we are going to be part of remode, the premiere event for disruptive and sustainable fashion, which will take place in Los angeles in november.

We’ll also be at Titas, in Taiwan, and at performance Days in Munich, with our arquas™ platform, keeping a strong focus on the athleisure market and performance wear. We’ll be in Tokyo too, at the fifth Wearable expo. earlier this year we shared two exciting new concepts. The first of these is ISKOmove™, developed to transmit physical movement data to a remote device using secure wireless technologies. Secondly ISKOTouch™, a fabric with the ability to recognise movements and pressure from fingertips. But all in all we will continue to share knowledge, know-how and innovative ideas with our international customers at our Italian Creative room.

We also plan to inspire the market with the launch of a new exclusive capsule collection made in partnership with François Girbaud. and last but not least, we will celebrate the tenth anniversary of our Jeggings™ with an exclusive event in amsterdam. So stay tuned …

The ISKO production process – 1,700 looms for a capacity of 250 million metres of fabric each year

ISKO r&D houses a dedicated product development unit of specialists and an advanced testing laboratory

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operations. So in order to fully understand the environmental footprint of our denim fabrics, and where we can make even better choices, we’ve obtained Life-Cycle assessments (LCa) for all 25,000+ denim products.

Independently verified environmental product Declarations (epD®) have been produced to ensure the validity and replicability of these LCas, making ISKO the first denim manufacturer globally to obtain pre-certified epD®s for all our products. This allows us to monitor and follow up the supply chain efficiency of all our products. what is your most state-of-the-art sustainable product so far?

ISKO earth Fit™ is our lowest-impact denim collection yet and the only one worldwide to have achieved both the eU ecolabel and nordic Swan ecolabel. The collection, which now includes 46 fabrics, uses innovative and responsible fibres including organic cotton, recycled pre-consumer cotton, and post-consumer recycled polyester from peT bottles. We also have an environmental management system in place, certified to an international standard, to ensure we manage the environmental impact at our production facilities. Under this system we manage energy, water, waste chemicals and emissions. where does your deep commitment to responsibility and sustainability come from? responsibility is not a trend for us, it’s part of our Dna. It goes beyond just using low impact materials and extends to our culture and systems. We like to understand the needs and buying habits of consumers. Our focus is not only on denim garment buyers but also on followers of all industries, to help them choose safe products without compromising on being chic, fashionable and innovative. is the industry doing enough in terms of going green?

This is an ongoing process and the industry should never stand still: we always need to improve.

For sure, a truly responsible approach does need to look at the whole picture, and this includes all steps of the production chain.

We also want to encourage people to save water and only wash their jeans when necessary. The performance and shape retention properties of our jeans innovations mean that they don’t get baggy with daily wear and so they don’t need to be washed as often to be in perfect shape. transparency is a big part of sustainability.

Do you think a standard grading system, controlled by a higher authority for everybody, can help to guide consumers when buying a pair of jeans? yes, the identification of standardised parameters would be ideal. That’s the future.

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REPORT KILIMDENIM 74

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“Bringing perfect looks to denim fabrics with special finishes and coatings has gained Kilimdenim a well-deserved and modern reputation in the market,� says Sales and Marketing coordinator Fuat Mirap.

REPORT KILIMDENIM

REPORT

KILIMDENIM BLUEPRINT FOR FACTORIES OF THE FUTURE

Kilimdenim preserves the authenticity of denim despite its innovative investment and stylish collection.

If you’re in search of a denim production site that is wholesome, eco-friendly and sustainable, you need look no further than Kilimdenim in Edirne – a manufacturing site in the European part of Turkey that looks more like an organic farm than a factory.

ProducTIon Pierre D’AvetA

PhoTograPhy bernD wiChmAnn

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TExT CloAt GerolD

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REPORT KILIMDENIM The Kilimdenim compound in Edirne features an integrated plant with spinning, indigo dyeing, weaving and finishing departments

“Denim is a Constantly Changing lifestyle. to be in this game we have to Come up with fresh iDeas every season while still respeCting its roots.”

Fuat Mirap

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There are 13 different kinds of animals living on Kilimdenim’s property.

They can move around freely and the employees can befriend them.

ilimdenim is one of the pioneers of Turkish denim manufacturing and has been in business since 1986. over the decades, Kilimdenim has always been keen on improving its production processes, capacity, working conditions and, more recently, also its attitude to sustainability and eco-friendly standards.

J’n’c took a tour of Kilimdenim’s facility in Edirne and you can imagine our surprise when we found peacocks frolicking on the beautifully landscaped lawns of the premises, which, we were told, are irrigated by filtered water which was used in the factory and fertilised by leftover mud from the production process. In fact, the plant is surrounded by what looked more like an organic farmer’s paradise than a factory compound: food for Kilimdenim’s staff canteen is provided by a little chicken farm, busy bees humming around their hives and a variety of fruit trees including apple, cherry,

report KilimDenim

apricot, peach, pear and plum. did we mention the happy sheep and geese, the herb and vegetable gardens and the almond trees yet? Well, you get the gist – we could go on, and on and on...

SUSTAINABILITy IS KEy In contrast to the beautiful natural surroundings, the inner workings of the factory are highly sophisticated. Kilimdenim pursues its sustainable activities by following the rules of a philosophy that has three main tenets: Economical Sustainability stands for efficient production – since 2015, Kilimdenim has significantly decreased its cost of electricity (by 40%) as well as the use of steam (by 66%), fuel (by 70%) and water (by 65%).

Social Sustainability is all about good working conditions and a happy community. The company provides financial aid and boosts healthcare, transport and social development in yeni Kadin Köyü, where most of

Kilimdenim’s employees live. It also works closely with the textile department of Erdine university, and cooperates with renowned denim brand g-Star on the ‘raw for the oceans’ project which involves plastic waste being collected in special centres, recycled and turned into polyester fibres that are then used in Kilimdenim’s collections.

Environmental Sustainability is paramount to Kilimdenim, especially because this aspect sets the company apart from its competitors. For example, the actual factory only takes up a tenth of the 100 hectares of fertile land Kilimdenim owns. all the rest is used to grow fruit and vegetables, to supply healthy food for the company’s workforce.

EvERy ASPECT COvERED But getting back to the beautiful surroundings of Kilimdenim’s plant, which we described so enthusiastically at the beginning of this article: the gently undulating green

pastures are the well planned results of the company’s efforts to take care of every possible sustainable aspect. Kilimdenim collected the construction waste that had accumulated on a 7,500m² area and planted 1,500 young trees that are irrigated with the factory’s wastewater. Just one young tree can extract and transform up to a tonne of co² from the atmosphere during its lifetime – now you do the maths!

Together with g-Star, Kilimdenim is currently working on yet another very important project, aiming to forgo the use of sodium dithionite in the new generation of indigo dyeing.

The metal salt, which cannot be biologically broken down, will not be used any more, which means that the production of toxic waste will be prevented. The denim fabric produced in the context of this project will be introduced with Kilimdenim’s re-create collection.

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Kilimdenim’s Sales and Marketing coordinator Fuat Mirap knows about the challenges of producing new fabrics. his direction of doing so is defined by knowledge, taste and vision.

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REPORT KILIMDENIM

The brand’s capacity to produce 12 million meters of denim per year is based on its philosophy to produce not in extreme amounts but to do so by revealing the fabric’s true value.

Kilimdenim’s refining facility to filter wastewater opened in 2003. after purification, the water is used to irrigate the fruit trees as well as the herb and vegetable gardens.

“we proDuCe fabriCs without harming the environment. in faCt, we are supporting anD enriChing nature.”

Fuat Mirap

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The garden produce is used in Kilimdenim’s kitchens

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Denim for every season

11 – 14 February 2019 Paris Le Bourget France www.texworld-paris.com

snOw peak

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snow pe

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Japanese Outerwear Lablename hier

between MiniMalisM and CaMpfire

Snow Peak is currently celebrating its 60th birthday.

Founded in 1958 by Yukio Yamai, the Japanese outdoor outfitter is launching an anniversary collection for SS19 to take the brand to a new level – with dungarees, oversize anoraks and seamless tops.

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It all started with mountaineering and camping equipment. when Yukio Yamai founded snow peak in 1958, the outdoor industry was still in its infancy. Yamai was dissatisfied with the range on offer. In order to equip himself for extensive tours on the mountains around sanjo City in the region Chūetsu in the niigata prefecture, which were up to 2,500 metres high, he started to design and produce the equipment he needed himself. He was particularly inspired by the natural surroundings. In 1980 his son Tohri took over the creative and business management. In 2014, Yukio’s granddaughter Lisa Yamai launched her first apparel collection,

which has since been developed and refined season after season. The design is, typical for the country of origin, minimalist and mostly monochrome. The focus is on freedom of movement, thermal insulation and functionality – all the way down to the fire resistant Takibi Coverall Jacket for the appropriate campfire look. For ss19, the focus is on lined sweaters and jackets with inbuilt insect protection as well as comfortable cotton trousers and oversize anoraks that will certainly survive a smaller typhoon. practical outdoor utensils are also integrated into the collection, including a sleeping bag and a tote bag to keep food and drinks warm or cold.

A NEW MEASURE OF STRETCH DYNAMIC MOBILITY ACROSS THE SPECTRUM OF COMFORT AND STRETCH FROM SOFT COMPRESSION TO HIGH RECOVERY AMPLIFY AND LIBERATE

OUR HANDPRINT IS LIGHT #showusyourhandprint

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2 Out Of 1 a fashiOn label that Can zip it all tOgether text rüdiger Oberschür

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FaCeTasm

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“together” is the simple title of Facetasm’s unisex men’s and womenswear collection for SS19. Designer hiromichi ochiai combines classic fabrics, colours and patterns with the most exciting contrasts possible. Key detail: the zipper. elegant shorts are styled with oversized shirts, jeans and leather jackets come with extra-long sleeves and lace, some with fluorescent accents. an unusual highlight is a two-tone suede poncho with fringing.

over a decade ago Hiromichi ochiai founded his label Facetasm in paris. previously, ochiai had worked for Guildwork and nGap, among others. since 2017, with his own label, the designer on the River seine has been concentrating on the synthesis between the street style of his hometown Tokyo and a seemingly endless variety of combinations of colours, prints and materials. His collections are never quite unisex but almost. Draping and layering subtly blurs gender boundaries and allow a different view of the architecture of fashion.

Zippers become key elements, giving sweaters, jackets and tops a luxuriant volume. Bomber jackets with floral motifs and casual chinos follow faux-dress shirts that gently break through the aesthetics that are often reminiscent of punk. “Clothes need to have several faces,” ochiai told the press at the défilé at the École de médicine during paris Fashion week in June 2018.

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watc h La beL S to

a-COld-wall

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a-CoLDwaLL

Pvc and mesh optics meet opulent silhouettes, while asymmetrical cuts are combined with safety belts and seat belt-style belts. Samuel ross has extended the a-cold-wall colour palette for SS19 with warmer shades like yellow and burgundy. there are also eye-catching accessories such as briefcases, unisex handbags and bracelets.

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The first a-Cold-wall collection was shown for aw15. The label, founded by samuel Ross, has since been successfully deconstructing popular sportswear concepts in favour of idiosyncratic design dystopias. In addition, Ross skillfully plays with functional details. as well as from graphic design and illustration, he gets his inspiration from London street culture, where the label is based

and also showed its collection for ss19 in June. Ross, who worked for Virgil abloh’s off-white for a long time and was a finalist in the LVmH prize in 2018, combines unconventional tailoring with a very special aesthetic for the coming season as well – as if a$ap Rocky had set off for an odyssey in space with pusha T. shiny hoods in XXL format are by no means the only headwear. opulently

decorated lounge trousers and waistcoats together with the asymmetrical cuts of jackets, shirts, tops and coats define the stylistic concept. In addition, Ross repeatedly incorporates transparency with pVC elements and mesh looks. The 27-year-old designer with Ghanaian roots has succeeded in creating an exciting street chic that is as wearable as it is striking.

imaxtree (3)

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INTERNATIONAL LEATHER GOODS FAIR OFFENBACH

THE PLACE FOR NEW TRENDS WINTER STYLES 2019 FEBRUARY 16 – 18 SUMMER STYLES 2019 SEPTEMBER 7 – 9

WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE

INTeRvIeWS CHerYll MüHlen TexT CHerYll MüHlen AYlin YAvuz

kINGpINs shOw 24 – 26 OCtObER 2018 usp: DENIM-fOCusED tRADEshOw wEstERGAsfAbRIEk kLöNNEpLEIN 1 1014 DD AMstERDAM

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CLEAN & sustAINAbLE Andrew Olah established the Kingpins Show – one of the main mustattend events when it comes to jeans – 14 years ago. There is no room at this trade fair for greenwashing but only for real game changers.

How is Kingpins contributing to the denim industry?

We cannot imagine how deep the denim market really is. And every time we think we are excessively denim-centric, we realise we can and should go deeper than we ever imagined. Our third China show, for example, just experienced off-the-chart success. Consumers drive demand and we help the industry to meet it.

But what differentiates Kingpins from other shows?

No one else who owns a denim show is actually in the jeans business or has such a long history in it as we do.

You’re quite an exclusive event.

Would you consider changing your invite-only policy to open to a broader public?

I think we have too many people attending our events already.

The truth is that exhibitors are our patrons, and we serve them best by making sure that they are not pestered by networkers or sales people during Kingpins.

They should only have to talk to students, press and potential customers. The Kingpins Show is designed to create a sense of community for the denim industry – but we are not and do not wish to be a networking event.

Can you recommend any highlights at this season’s edition?

Not-to-be-missed highlights include Transformers, Trend, and of course lengthy visits to our sponsors Lycra and e3 Cotton.

Regarding e3, I’d like to mention that our industry uses only

about 19% sustainable cotton.

So why is that? Organic cotton accounts for less than 0.67% of all cotton farm acres on earth and e3 has the solutions to this problem.

When you’re not at the Westergasfabriek, where can people find you in Amsterdam?

With friends, colleagues or my wife. She’s coming this time!

AndreW olAH Founder of Kingpins Show, CeO of Olah Inc

TeAM PeTeR STIgTeR (3); RvDA, geROLD BReNNeR

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tradeshows

SS20

kINGpINsshOw.COM

AMstERDAM

RELAX AND Just DO It!

MODEfAbRIEk 20 – 21 JANuARy 2019 uSP: inSPiring CreAtive Pool for tHe Mid to HigH-end fASHion MArKet RAI AMstERDAM EuROpApLEIN 24 1078 GZ AMstERDAM MODEfAbRIEk.NL

The cool kid of tradeshows is back at it. With creativity as its DNA, Modefabriek is the address for talking business in an inspiring and fun environment.

Modefabriek never had one special theme for their trade shows but if you were to give it one for their upcoming edition, it would probably be something like ‘P2P over B2B’ – meeting people and exchanging ideas is what’s important. Though trade will still remain the core of the event, the fair will pay special attention to everything that is more than solely showing and purchasing collections. This ‘more than mode’ approach is of course being reflected in the

programme, so expect experimentation, randomness and surprise. Highlights that we already know of will be the ‘Dress like a man’ area with a new theme concentrating on makers and craftsmanship, a big millennial store with customised items and special collaborations as well as the ‘europ Store’, where you will discover european designers, drinks, food and a trendhub. In addition there will be a ‘See now Buy now’ store, different expos, cool 3D installations, workshops and more surprising elements.

Modefabriek is all about discovering new brands, networking and learning in a relaxed environment – and that is exactly what you’re going to get.

DENIM DAys: shOp tILL yOu DROp

upcoming edition there will be new partners, new vendors, new content, more brands and of course: more shopping! Here are the Top 5 Hot Spots:

The Amsterdam Denim Days – inspiring consumers to make good choices in buying denim products while having fun in a festival atmosphere. For the

Denim City: The innovation campus has a clear mission: to bring the industry “Towards a Brighter Blue”. Take a peek inside the halls decked with sewing tables

and shelves with inummerable yards of denim fabric. tenue de Nîmes: With its industrial but cozy interior and a great range of products, this shop feels like home.

Nudie: High quality jeans in a very well curted store with wooden interior and an in-house alteration studio. What more does the denim lover ever need?

Rauw: Stylish, carefully curated pieces in a clean and modern atmosphere – just the store to attract Amsterdams coolest and hippest people.

Zipper: One of the most beautiful vintage stores, Zipper offers rare second-hand clothing, accessories, a huge variety of vintage jeans and a heavenly ceiling painted à la Michelangelo.

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every year the Denim Days paint the city of Amsterdam blue and make it the centre of attention for those with an indigo heart.

tradeshows

robert grauwen Sales Manager Amsterdam Denim Days

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pREMIuM 15 – 17 JANuARy 2019 uSP: BrAnd PoWer And lifeStYle stAtION bERLIN LuCkENwALDER stRAssE 4-6 10963 bERLIN

LEss tALk, MORE ACtION! Premium group’s CeO Anita Tillmann about expanding to the US and hoping for more exchange between visitors and exhibitors in Berlin.

sEEk 15 – 17 JANuARy 2019

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ARENA bERLIN EIChENstRAssE 4 12435 bERLIN sEEkEXhIbItIONs.COM

What does 2019 have in store for the Premium group?

It’s going to be really exciting!

Next year we’ll be celebrating ten years of Seek and also expanding into the USA, together with the Liberty group.

A big step. What exactly are your plans and what does that mean for your exhibitors?

By closing down the Munich edition of Premium we have already indicated that we want to focus on Berlin, as well as digitalisation and internationalisation. And the cooperation with the Liberty group is a step in precisely that direction. Together we are now

bringing Premium, including our brand portfolio, to the US, or to be more precise, to New York and Las vegas. From next February our partners will have the opportunity to exhibit in America. that sounds exciting...

Yes, it does, doesn’t it? (laughing) It’s a lot of fun and I’m over the moon that this is the direction we are moving in. Less talk, more action!

But let’s get back to Berlin, where there’s also a lot happening.

Yes, in January we’ll be introducing a brand new tradeshow concept. We will be completely mixing up the segments. The

new hall definition will then be based on the criteria of pricing, positioning, image and of course the distribution strategies of the brands. But we have also come to the conclusion that the responsibility to create a good trade fair doesn’t lie with us alone. The brands also have an obligation to initiate dialogue at the event, which is why we advise our exhibitors to concentrate on key looks and the factors that make their brand unique. The question is: why should a buyer place an order with them and spend their budget on the product? We want the brands to start focusing on these core questions from January and would like all exhibitors to think about how they can design their stands to increase the duration that visitors spend

BORIS KRALJ; OFFeNBLeNDe

pREMIuMEXhIbItIONs.COM

there. Face-to-face conversations are still important. We still need platforms on which we can communicate, meet and exchange knowledge and ideas.

What’s the difference between then and now?

We used to go to tradeshows where the trade product was the collection. These days very different things are being traded: data, communication, information, emotions – it’s the whole package. As a tradeshow, we can encourage and inspire and create the necessary framework setting, but the work itself has to happen between the brands and the buyers.

What are the challenges when it comes to ensuring that the Premium group’s different platforms have distinct identities and definitions?

We make sure that we work with

professionals and we travel a lot. This means that we can assess and evaluate the markets very well. We go into stores, have a look around and find out what they need and what they are looking for. But we also speak to the brands, visit their showrooms and look at their collections.

On that basis, we now have separate independent teams: there’s one for Seek, one for Show&Order and of course one for Premium.

AnitA tillMAnn CeO Premium group

fAshIONtEC 15 JANuARy 2019

LEt´s GO DIGItAL

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The next edition of #Fashiontech is based on leadership, culture, innovation and future technology. “every market participant needs to deal with the topic of digitalisation and see it as an opportunity. We are giving visitors the chance to discover new technologies in a fun way and to profit from other people’s know-how,” explains Michael Stracke, Chief Business Development Officer of #Fashiontech Berlin. “We want to create a positive mood within the industry. After all, in

the long term there will be no getting around digitalisation for any company that wants to stay competitive. It’s better to experiment from a strong position, provided that the necessary resources and timeframes are in place.” Together with Messe Frankfurt, which is making the Fashionsustain programme possible, #Fashiontech provides essential knowledge and is also sending a signal to the outside world that two trade fair organisers can join forces to create the best possible content and a new culture of coexistence.

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tRADEshOws

pANORAMA-bERLIN.COM

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Jörg Wichmann is determined to take Panorama Berlin to the next level and is restructuring the fair – the purchase of Selvedge Run is one of the new changes taking place.

When we say that we are the marketplace for supply and demand, we are leaving out one important aspect: the end consumer. So we sat down after the event in July and looked at the topics that were relevant to step, which co-founder Shane In the fast paced times we live the market.

Brandenburg is taking with them; So will Panorama Berlin soon in, B2B is actually no different he will continue to be responto B2C. That’s the conclusion also be opening its doors to the that Panorama Berlin’s CeO Jörg sible for the content in this area. end consumers? is that the diWichmann came to with his team rection for a modern tradeshow when they sat down together concept?

Jörg, why did you believe it was after the July 2018 edition and Just take Bread & Butter by time to change the Panorama realised that the fair’s current Zalando. It has nothing to do Berlin concept? concept needs to be adapted with a trade fair, it’s more of After the last season, we were for the future. The fact that an experience. People want questioning a lot of things. We the professional visitor doesn’t to go somewhere where they realised that there were brands really differ much from the can experience something and that worked really well, but also end consumer was the decisive where they will be inspired. So brands – which was incompreimpetus for further developit’s not about whether this is a hensible for us – that weren’t ment and explains many aspects doing well at all. So we sat down tradeshow, a brand or a store, of this reorientation. As a result, and tried to figure out why. but about creating a format that the purchase of Selvedge Run gives the visitors an additional And what conclusion did you seemed to be the next logical reason to come. Brands that come to?

geTTY IMAgeS / THOMAS NIeDeRMÜLLeR (2)

pANORAMA 15 – 17 JANuARy 2019

“aFter the Last seasoN, we were QUestIoNING a Lot oF thINGs.”

of an incentive are they giving their customers to come to Berlin? Is it deliveries in February, March, April? I very much doubt it. But we were noticing that the brands had focused on that aspect, or even reduced their complete concept to that one focus. As a consequence, the visitors turned their backs on certain brands and decided not to visit their booths.

At the end of the day, B2B is the same as B2C. It’s important to create desire and a clear message. In the next one or two seasons, there will certainly be changes that take Panorama in

something new. everyone has to get moving and those who don’t, won’t be able to survive in the future. We will condense the areas and concentrate on relevant, exciting and emotionally charged presentations, with the consequence that two halls will be closed, including the Nova hall. The entire forecourt of the south entrance will be turned into an event to appeal to the visitors directly and viscerally. There will be a kind of brand activation going on there, where brands will be able to present themselves in small bubble tents. Our Panorama

INspIRING busINEss pLAtfORM

a world where they can discover lots of new, exciting looks.

Will the hall also be called Selvedge run?

It will be called “Reach Next Level” because we are convinced that what we are showing there will actually represent the next level for a lot of retailers.

bERLIN

Market with lifestyle and gadget products to shop and explore will take place in the registration tent, which will be providing the visitors with a welcome and community area to acclimatise into the arctic theme and meet one another.

As part of all these changes, you have also purchased Selvedge run, the well established order show for quality menswear, shoes, accessories and lifestyle goods. How did this decision come about?

To date, we have cooperated twice with Selvedge Run and we realised that the fair showcases very attractive and high-quality products that have crystal clear brand messages and long and authentic histories – some of which are still niche brands, but nevertheless are proving to have plenty of potential. But their presentation, both at the Marshall Haus, and the Funkturm, didn’t really go as both parties expected. So from January we will be integrating Selvedge Run at the front of the approx.

2,000 m² former registration area and, before they enter the other halls, bringing visitors into

JÖrg WiCHMAnn CeO Panorama Fashion Fair Berlin

SHAne BrAndenBurg Product Manager Selvedge Run

by Panorama Fashion Fair

NEONyt 15 – 17 JANuARy 2019 uSP: tHe internAtionAl HuB for SuStAinABilitY And innovAtion kRAftwERk bERLIN köpENICkER stRAssE 70 10179 bERLIN NEONyt.MEssEfRANkfuRt.COM

New concept, new name, new labels, old values. greenshowroom and ethical Fashion Show Berlin are now Neonyt.

Neonyt is all about being aware of the past while taking a modern approach. Under this premise, the hub concept is being launched in January 2019 and replacing the two tradeshows greenshowroom and ethical Fashion Show Berlin. Its aim is still to show that sustainability can work in a fashion context and that the fashion business can be changed if everyone pulls together – through collaboration, innovation, sustainability and technology.

The different formats, includ-

ing the Neonyt trade show, the conferences Fashionsustain by Messe Frankfurt and #Fashiontech by Premium group, the Fashionsustain Thinkathon, the Neonyt Fashion Show, networking events and lots more, will be further emphasising this idea. The community aspect is playing an increasingly important role: with conferences and the influencer format Prepeek, the event is hoping to attract a mixed audience.

Neonyt is therefore not presenting itself as a business and communications platform, where not only business will be done, but where the visitors can learn, communicate and be inspired.

tRADEshOws

more of a direction like the one we are seeing at Zalando.

What can visitors expect from “Panorama expedition”? expeditions are about embarking on an adventure to discover

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are well distributed today and maintain a close partnership with retailers, as well as having an area contract, should think about what exactly they can do at an event like ours. What kind

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MuNICh

kICkING Off thE sEAsON Munich Fabric Start is an essential event for the manufacturing industry and the Bluezone is also consolidating its position among the denim community.

MuNICh fAbRIC stARt & bLuEZONE 29 – 31 JANuARy 2019 uSP: one of tHe BiggeSt textile trAdeSHoWS ZENIth hALLE & kEssELhAus LILIENthALALLEE 29 80939 MuNICh MuNIChfAbRICstARt.COM

IspO MuNICh 3 – 6 fEbRuARy 2019

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Sebastian Klinder CeO Munich Fabric Start

2,800 exhibitors, 18 halls, an area covering 200,000 m² – Ispo Munich is showing that it has what it takes to stay in the race. good sports! Next year, Ispo Munich wants to motivate us to do more exercise. Their aim is to support and promote all aspects of a healthy lifestyle. That can’t be done with just a glimpse at the latest trends and new products, however, but with the help of a whole raft of services. So in addition to the tradeshow the Ispo.com news portal keeps us informed all year round. And for the second time now, there will also be the Ispo Munich Sports Week, during which Munich’s retailers will be inviting guests to numerous events in the city and surrounding area for a whole seven days. As a response to the developments in the trade fair sector, the new edition will also have a strong consumer focus

and, together with the Chinese e-commerce platform TMALL, is offering live broadcasts from the trade fair halls. In keeping with this, they are also launching the

‘Ispo Digitize’ format in a new hall, which will help prepare the industry for the digital transformation. A tradeshow with plenty of added value!

THOMAS STRAUB; MeSSe FRANKFURT, PIeTRO SUTeRA (2)

tradeshows

thE fIttEst Of thEM ALL

What findings were you able to draw from the previous tradeshow season?

Last season has shown us the continuous positive development of our two complementary tradeshow formats: view Premium Selection with a significant increase of visitors in July and the subsequent Munich Fabric Start, both being established as optimal business platforms.

What will 2019 hold for Munich fabric Start?

Our mission is to evaluate market developments and shifting demands in order to provide answers and solutions for the industry. every event is the result of a continuous improving process. In 2019, we are planning on further developing the Blue Zone Festival. The ReSource area will offer a wider segment of innovative sustainable materials. Furthermore, Keyhouse will showcase the fusion of fashion, technology and innovation, to name but a few.

What’s new in the Bluezone?

After having established the “Denim Beyond Seasons” concept two years ago, it won’t be enough anymore to present the most recent developments for denim and fabrics in future. At this point in time, we experience a demand for finished garments.

That’s why Bluezone will be focusing also on ready-made solutions in order to optimise the portfolio. With items from selected CMT brands, we can visually present the supply chain management at the event. li edelkoort was one of the illustrious speakers in September.

Who will you be getting on board for the next event?

In January 2019, Li edelkoort is one of the key speakers again next to David Shah, who constantly impresses and inspires us with future visions and food for thought. Muchaneta Kapfunde from FashNerd.com will be present as expert and key driver of the FashionTech development.

Another focus is on young social media experts and collaborations with exhibitors to present innovative subjects and perspectives.

fRANkfuRt

fAbRICs AND tEChNOLOGy. whAt thE futuRE hOLDs tEChtEXtIL 14 – 17 MAy 2019 uSP: tHe leAding SHoW for teCHniCAl textileS MEssE fRANkfuRt LuDwIG-ERhARD-ANLAGE 160327 fRANkfuRt AM MAIN tEChtEXtIL.MEssEfRANkfuRt.COM tradeshows

‘Space for Innovation’ – under this motto, the May 2019 edition of Techtextil wants to follow on from the developments since its last event. Tradeshows have long since been providing inspiration, unique experiences and an active transfer of knowledge, according to the organisers.

Although first and foremost, the event remains a professional fair, just like the end consumers, the tradeshow visitors also wants to be addressed on an

informative offer. In terms of clothing, we are joining forces with a number of exciting partners to show what the urban fashion of the future might look like and to demonstrate its potential,” say the organisers. And the ‘TechTextil Forum’ will also emotional and entertaining level. be giving insights into the latest industry developments. The So it’s no surprise that the fair new expert format is open to all is being consistently further professional visitors and exhibideveloped in this respect and is adapting its line-up accordingly: tors free of charge and offers a setting for inspiring exchange together with Texprocess they with presentations, discussions are launching the joint special and interactive formats. Fashion event ‘Urban Living – City of the Future’, which will explore the designers meet car makers and medical engineers meet industry influence of technical textiles on the most diverse of sectors specialists. Techtextil is a mecca for materials and technologies – like architecture, mobility and clothing. “Awaiting the visitors it's not easy to find a more varied is an inspiring, entertaining and range anywhere else.

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Where and how will we live? What will we wear?

To what extent can technology and materials improve our quality of life? The next edition of Techtextil will once again be answering our questions about what the future will bring.

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For the upcoming edition, Texprocess is also adapting to the developments in the trade fair sector and focusing on one aspect in particular: exchange.

For this, Texprocess is collaborating with Fashion Sustain and Neonyt: “In May, for the first time, we will be bringing our Berlin-based conference Fashionsustain to Texprocess in Frankfurt. That means we’ll be combining the inspiration, knowhow and focus on sustainability with fashion at Texprocess. And we are also planning on bringing

contents and technologies from Texprocess to Neonyt in Berlin,” explains Thimo Schwenzfeier, Director of Marketing Communications for Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt.

A mutual exchange of knowledge that will benefit everyone involved and also be actively developed in the future. Furthermore, with the Digital Textile Micro Factory, Texprocess will once again be showing a live, fully connected textile production chain for clothing, and, for the first time, also for technical

textiles. In cooperation with Techtextil, there will also be the joint special event called ‘Urban Living – City of the Future’, which will explore the future influence of technical textiles in various sectors in an entertaining and informative way. With the new IT@Texprocess format, the fair is also showing IT solutions – and providing an insight into the digitalisation of the textile industry.

The varied line-up of accompanying events will be rounded off by talks and a programme to support aspiring young talents.

MeSSe FRANKFURT, PIeTRO SUTeRA ; JeSSICA SCHäFeR; APO

What would Techtextil be without Texprocess? With its ‘Space for Progress’ motto, Texprocess is complementing its sister event and underlining the innovative appeal of the two trade fairs.

ILM OffENbACh 16 – 18 fEbRuARy 2019 uSP: trAditionAl CondenSed order PlAtforM WitH A lAid-BACK AtMoSPHere

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A vERy wELCOME EXChANGE

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ILM is stepping decidedly into the future – but without forgetting past traditions.

If you ask Arnd Hinrich Kappe, Managing Director of ILM Offenbach about the goal for the next ILM, his answer is: “To do good business.” But he also understands that tradeshows these days are more like conventions than classic trade fairs. “It’s less about the products and more about the exchange: discussing

LONDON Is CALLING tO thE fARAwAy tOwNs

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tradeshows

Why did you decide to venture away from Paris?

When we decided to turn Denim Première vision into a roving event, which alternates its location between Paris and another european city, our aim was to encourage the proximity between denim and fashion communities, as well as to foster new business opportunities.

London is an amazing fashion hotspot, especially for denim.

What are the main differences between Paris and london?

They are very similar because of their solid history in terms of culture and fashion DNA, but nevertheless very different. If Paris is the place to be for wellestablished brands, London is the place where new emerging neighbourhoods can change the way you think about fashion.

What highlights are you most looking forward to?

We have a great offer by the highest quality established companies and newcomers and a two-day line-up packed full of events. One day is entirely focused on fashion with a new

trends area offering the most comprehensive fashion information. The second day is dedicated to sustainability through our ‘Smart Creation’ programme with specific seminars, a ‘Smart Wardrobe’ presenting responsible products and a ‘Smart Library’ proposing sustainable materials.

Where do you see denim Pv’s position within the industry?

Our show needs to become a biannual event for inspiration, creativity, sustainability and technology dedicated to denim.

So far, I am extremely proud and satisfied with the path my team and I have travelled over the past ten months. We are seeing a lot of excitement, interest and curiosity from the denim and fashion industry. This encourages us while also setting the standards high, but we’re ready and motivated to take on the challenge.

DENIM pREMIÈRE vIsION 5 – 6 DECEMbER 2018

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In the Old Truman Brewery in London we can expect a interesting renewed line-up of events, late-night shopping and a great party.

concepts, developing strategies. As marketplaces, trade fairs are becoming more and more important. In the digital world we are currently living in, offline get-togethers are more important than ever.” In order to provide just that, there are new halls, new exhibitors and new brands, which are increasingly coming from abroad. A welcome development that was no doubt boosted by the tradeshow’s collaboration with UBM Hong Kong.

guglielMo oleAro International exhibitions Director Denim Première vision

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DüssELDORf

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Dynamic duo: With the successful showroom concept, gallery is further emphasising its staying power in Düsseldorf.

What is gallery’s position for January 2019?

We are very happy with our new direction. For a total of five days on either side of the official dates of the tradeshow, our showroom concept is constantly growing and demonstrating the dynamic development of gallery, which brings together the power of agencies and brands under

one roof. With the flexibility in terms of time, we are offering an added value that cannot be found anywhere else on the international tradeshow scene. do you have a goal for the next edition of gallery?

Yes, to carry on working to attract more international visitors.

You offered the showroom concept again this year. How did it go?

We are filling a gap in the market.

With our showroom concept, we are providing exactly what exhibitors are looking for in terms

of service and cost effectiveness.

All in all, we are very happy with the expansion of gallery to three halls. is the era of the classic trade fair in jeopardy?

We are living in fast-paced times. Digitalisation, globalisation and sustainability are all irrevocably changing the fashion world in the long term.

Tradeshows need to be meeting places where people enjoy spending time: after all, faceto-face encounters and personal contact are still a decisive

factor. And when you’re placing an order, you want to see and feel the products in real life and not just virtually on the internet.

ulrike Kähler Managing Director Igedo Company

GALLERy shOEs 10 – 12 MARCh 2019

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tradeshows

With its third edition, gallery Shoes has crossed the magic threshold for tradeshows – with a return rate of 98%.

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“In terms of the number of visitors, we hope to once again conclude the next edition on a par with the previous edition, or even increase it, and we are working hard to ensure our continued success in the future,” explains Ulrike Kähler. But: “gallery Shoes has, without a doubt, fully established itself on the market.” Continuous development and honing of the concept

AREAL böhLER hANsAALLEE 321 40549 DüssELDORf GALLERy-shOEs.COM

mean the fair is evolving naturally, which is important to its success. For example, a stronger fashion presence is one of the fair’s new approaches for the future and the new Fashion Lifestyle Corner with its own catwalk was established in the Premium area in September. gallery Shoes is now firmly established throughout europe as a focal point for the shoe industry. “And now we’re working on adding the finishing touches,” concludes Kähler. This also includes further expansion and appealing to more international visitors.

IgeDO COMPANY (2); OLAF RAYeRMANN

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080 Barcelona Fashion

F e at u r e

Beach viBes and awards 080 Barcelona Fashion in the Catalan capital is the Fashion Week of the region and regarded as one of the biggest fashion events in Spain. With a vibrant mix of young and established Spanish designers, it can certainly keep up with the international competition.

TExT Renée Diehl

MC&M

Robustella

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Krizia Robustella showcased her luxury sportswear collection ‘Fancy Feast’, newcomer Jaime Alvarez from Mans Concept Menswear took the audience on a journey back to 90s Berlin and Miriam Ponsa presented her ‘I have a dream’ collection inspired

by Martin Luther King.

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Around 31,000 journalists, buyers and professionals met for the 22nd edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion from 25 to 29 June 2018 to take in the fashion shows of 28 designers and brands. In addition to the 080 Fashion Market in the inner courtyard of the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau in the heart of Barcelona and the 080 Fashion Showroom, a wide range of designers, from upcoming to established, showcased their new collections on the catwalk in the underground part of the former hospital.

On the first day, brands like Baeza, Guillermina and TCN showed mainly swimwear.

The highlights of the second day included Mans Concept Menswear, Krizia Robustella and Miriam Ponsa. The event closed with

another beachwear show by ES Collection.

And on the third day, the collections by Antonio Miro, Sweet Matitos and Brain & Beast stood out in particular. Former US Vogue editor André Leon Tally turned up as a special guest and presented his biographical documentary film “The Gospel According to André: A Life in Chiffon Trenches”. The ‘080 Award’ for the best collection went to Antonio Miro’s ‘The Sea’, while Mans Concept Menswear’s ‘Mans House’ collection won the Emerging Designer Award.

Red Point was presented with the Modacc Award for its ‘Emerging Beauty’ swimwear collection. 080 Barcelona Fashion takes place twice a year with a summer and also a winter edition.

ESTROP BARCELONA (3)

Ponsa

29-31 JAN 2019 I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R

M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T. C O M | # M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T

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fashion

JuMpsuit

xUlY.Bët B o ot s steV e MAdden

Be Smart, Enjoy Life

KEEP IT IN THE POCKET GARCIA präsentiert seine aktuelle, smarte Denim Kollektion im neuen Deutschen Headoffice & Showroom: Plange Mühle 6, Düsseldorf.

Eröffnung: 8. November 2018

Haben Sie Fragen? Bitte kontaktieren Sie uns: CUSTOMERSERVICE.GERMANY@WEAREGARCIA.COM

ten questions

J'N'C t a l k

10 questions

FashioN DesigNeR

Christopher Raeburn

fabrics from an early age. My interest is in the process, utility and functionality of those garments – researching something and making something that’s worthwhile at the end, something that’s considered in different ways. It’s also about authenticity, building stories and emotional relationships with the garments.

8

1

Your first thought concerning your work this morning?

I always feel fortunate that it’s about following my passion rather than work, and meeting people along the way.

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2

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You are very much in demand for collaborations with leading fashion labels. What do you that your creative process adds to the look and image of those brands?

We’ve always approached design with responsibility at our core and the remade ethos as an extra dimension in terms of creativity.

For us, it’s a great opportunity to bring a lot of what we’ve learnt to much bigger companies and make a big difference on a global scale.

3

Which labels would you love to cooperate with?

Right now I’m really proud of how the Timberland relationship is developing.

4

Sustainability plays a major role within your work and your collection for Timberland, to be launched in October 2018, is a very good example. Please tell us about your approach.

Sustainability has always been at the core of what we do but I’m quite open that I didn’t set out to start a sustainable company at all. Whilst our core values developed naturally over time, it was a happy accident in the first place. It’s about the reworking of surplus fabrics and their functionality above anything that led onto what we do now.

5

Talking about sustainability, what exactly is the philosophy of your brand’s REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED ethos?

Everything we do as a business is underpinned by what we call the

4 Rs; remade, reduced, recycled and ræburn. Remade is about deconstructing and reconstructing original items – we’ve used items like life rafts, military blankets, hot air balloons – you name it. Every remade piece is a limited edition, proudly cut and reconstructed in our studio in East London. Reduced is all about minimising carbon footprint, using organic cottons and working with local manufacturing.

Recycled is all about re-using materials and harnessing green technologies. The Timberland collaboration is special in the sense that we were able to apply our ethos across all three pillars.

6

If you had to describe your aesthetics with three keywords, what would they be?

Pragmatic, responsible, inventive.

7

You often work with used military garments, how did that come about?

I developed a fascination for military clothing and functional

9

Where do you think the fashion business is heading?

Many people are grappling towards what the circular economy will really look like. I also believe that with technology there is a real opportunity to change things for good in the next decade. Ultimately, we want to make strong, sustainable choices that provide our customers with a completely unique and desirable product.

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What can we expect from you in the near future?

We very much want to continue to collaborate with like-minded businesses, championing innovation and drawing a growing network of collaborators into our creative world. We’re also excited to test retail through the RÆBURN Lab and other upcoming opportunities in London. In the longer term, we are committed to sustainability and applying our remade ethos to everything we do.

TIMBERLand® / JULIa PIJagIn

The British designer stands for a vision that we would like to see catching on in the fashion business. In his collaborative studio he produces beautiful, sustainable and responsible fashion as well as hosting monthly events, discussions and workshops.

You offer free workshops at your studio in East London ...

Yes absolutely, we’re generally really keen to engage with our community. We’ve also done repair open days, open studio tours and plan on doing more …

INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

January 26 – 28, 2019 Showroom Concept January 25 – 29, 2019 INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

AREAL BÖHLER GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.COM

We are international order-oriented trade shows for fashion, shoes and accessories with a mix of young and established brands!

March 10 – 12, 2019

AREAL BÖHLER GALLERY-SHOES.COM