J'N'C Magazine 3/2012 by J'N'C Magazine

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FaShion BuSineSS, BrandS and urBan culture

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Content issue 53—03/2012

Border Crossing 8

Column Lights, Camera, Action!

Booklookin’ Cycle style

Discdiggin’

Gadgets

20 26

Editorial / Contributors We are celebrating the 20th anniversary of J’n’C news

City guide MAdrid 20

Street People tradition in technicolor

Hot Spots nueva Movida Madrileña

Behind the sCenes

Fashion and Africa it´s not all Black and White

Short Cuts

Brand Features Fair Trade Premium, gds international shows

Brand Features Celebrity Interviews diane Pernet Andrea rosso

Brand Features Heritage J´n´C meets drykorn at the round table interview with Marco Lanowy, Alberto

Brand Feature Handmade Victorinox

Labels To Watch Michael Kampe, Kiesel, Jonathan simkhai, Mattijs van Bergen

Brand Feature Heal The World isko

48 26

Content issue 53—03/2012

retAiL 78

Andreas Murkudis, Berlin

Voo Store, Berlin

Merci, Paris

Centre Commercial, Paris

Alter, Shanghai

Any Old Iron, New York

shootings 94

124

Streetstyles International

Never Mind nadia del dò

102

Mr. Heartthrob rené Fietzek

108

Blue Blood Amos Fricke

116

The Artist Linda Alfvegren

124

Color Lovers Katia Wik

10 133

116

Imprint Index

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VISIT US IN BERLIN 04 – 06 JULY 2012

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Editorial

Big events are on the horizon: we are celebrating the 20th anniversary of J’n’C news. so we thought it was high time for a breath of fresh air. And you will hardly recognise our new image! new team, new format, new layout, new topics – and a new drive. of course J’n’C Magazine didn’t want to be left behind either: as part of the birthday celebrations our editors roamed the globe and met up with diane Pernet, fashion icon and curator of the fashion film festival AsVoFF, in Barcelona, and with Andrea rosso, son of diesel founder renzo rosso and head of the young sportswear line 55dsL, in London. in Madrid we kept our eyes peeled for new fresh store concepts – and came across some pretty amazing examples, not just in Madrid but also in shanghai, Berlin, new york and Paris. Where did we meet the coolest people? Perhaps in Milan, perhaps in London – we’ll

let you decide for yourselves! see our current street looks from page 90. For our fashion shoots we headed to sweden, Britain and Berlin to find the right settings for the latest trends and most convincing fashion statements. We came up with denim, classy grunge, vibrant colours and strong contrasts. speaking of which: contrasts is the topic of our essay ‘Fashion and Africa’ for which J’n’C author Fredericke Winkler took a closer look at the cradle of civilisation, discovering a whole new world of undiscovered fashion behind the cotton production, ethnic print and safari clichés. And yes, we’ve already decided to continue our round-the-world trip: as part of our internationalisation J’n’C is now available from the best international magazine stores – with a german and an english edition, in the interests of increased understanding between the

cultures on both sides of the ocean. By the way: all J’n’C issues are now available from our online shop. take a look. And if you don’t have the time to jet around the world yourself every season: we have already been there for you and will be reporting back – in the future also with additional support from international correspondents. so on that note, take a leaf out of our book and keep moving! Ilona Marx

Busy Bees ContriButors

andReas ZimmeRmann FRauke BeRg JoLien deckeRs Born in Wuppertal and owner of a Belgian passport, Jolien deckers was quite literally born with internationalism running through her veins. this might explain why the now 24-yearold gets just as excited about german forests and mountains as she does about Flemish Kriek (cherry) beer, paintings by the British impressionist Alfred sisley and French literature – en français, of course. the balletloving düsseldorf resident is meanwhile cultivating her penchant for razor-sharp word acrobatics, which she discovered at a very young age, during her degree in english studies and romance languages, as well as currently in her work for J’n’C. she researched interesting newcomers for this issue’s ‘Labels to Watch’ section.

Linda aLFvegRen Born and raised in ekerö, a small village near stockholm, at the young age of eight Linda Alfvegren already preferred taking photos over going to school, which at an early stage paved the way for a life dedicated to “stopping time and looking back”, as she refers to the fine art of photography. And inspiration is everywhere: looking out of her kitchen window, on her way to the supermarket, on her travels and on the football pitch, which she takes her eight-yearold son to several times a week. Linda is currently working on a children’s book, planning at least two exhibitions – and fortunately managed to find enough time to shoot the ‘the Artist’ editorial for this issue of J’n’C.

tel Aviv, Bergen, Buxtehude – Frauke Berg has been constantly on the go over the past few weeks and hates monotony. especially of the creative variety. “sitting at home and staring at the ceiling is not for me,” emphasises the artist and illustrator from düsseldorf, who is already hard at work on her next exhibitions. With musician Anja Laumann she is currently working on a project that is a liaison of sound and drawing. Frauke is also planning a record with the label of the slowboys from düsseldorf that will feature her edgy experiments. And on top of all that, she also illustrates for Zeit Magazine and hip fashion journals. oh, and not forgetting: Frauke was also responsible for the 2012 Kunstfilmtag (Art Film day) trailer. in her opinion “every day offers new opportunities that are just waiting to be seized.”

Andreas ‘Andizett’ Zimmermann is a man of many talents. in 1998 he made an appearance as a model in the first ever J’n’C shoot and, as the in-house photographer of our city guides and co., has remained true to us ever since. When he’s not currently sailing the seven seas on behalf of J’n’C, which is something that takes up a lot of his time, the 37-year-old from düsseldorf, who has a photography degree from the renowned Folkwang university of the Arts in essen, is working intensely at the intersection between commercial art and artistic photography for galleries. Andizett is already on first name terms with his three moody tortoises Chelona, hermes and times Machine, who together are just as old as him. And as part of the ‘spontaneous random’ project he has immortalised the architectonic possibilities of Lego bricks. For this issue of J’n’C he travelled to Madrid.

Fee RomeRo Born in 1982 in hamburg, Fee romero spent the majority of her childhood and teenage years in London and Berlin, before training at estée Lauder and then becoming a self-employed hair & make-up artist at the tender age of 22. But because there’s more to a creative life than locks, in her rare free time Fee teamed up with spanish sculptress Adelaida Cue Bär to develop film and photo concepts beyond the norm. A cooperation that resulted in them setting up the all-round-project group La roquette in hamburg. For J’n’C the duo, together with photographer Amos Fricke, set the scene for the ‘Blue Blood’ editorial.

BordEr Crossing

Editorial We are celebrating the 20th anniversary of J’n’C news

»…watch out dear fashion editors! the ueberking when it comes to fashion films Column / Contributors is nick Knight…« Lights, Camera, Action!

Booklookin’

Discdiggin

Gadgets

the story of man and his bike in perfect symbiosis Cycle style

CHeeky tongue CoLuMn

ligHts, CaMEra, aCtion! teXt Gerlind Hector iLLustrAtion Vanessa Paulzen

First off, a big hello to Aristide Boucicaut! We have quite a lot to be grateful to the pioneer of fashion marketing for, even if his name has been pretty much forgotten since: chic window dressing, cute giveaways and brightly coloured mail-order catalogues that were sending young Parisians into raptures about the ‘dernier cri’ 150 years ago. And who invented them? Monsieur Boucicaut, naturellement! A few years have since passed. these days fashion movies are used to give the latest clobber the ultimate publicity push. Adulation from the fashion press knows no bounds and there is even talk of a symbiosis between art and fashion. But watch out dear fashion editors! the ueberking when it comes to fashion fi lms is nick Knight – and he is convinced that pretty soon you’ll all be out of work. the death knell of the fashion magazine has already been rung, he suggests, because everything you find in glossy magazines can be found on the net – but only better. Just to fi ll you in, “Big nick” as ‘die Zeit’ recently dubbed him, was onto a good little earner at Vogue, elle and Co., although these days he is mainly paying homage to fashion fi lms with his shoWroom. one woman who is certainly on the same page as him is diane Pernet, world famous fashion blogger and founder of the fashion fi lm festival AsVoFF. But dogmatism is the last thing on her list. What’s her pet project? the ultimate democracy! Because with a bit of pizazz and a good idea, even a small label can make a name for itself – without having to fork out the big bucks. And they really are out there, those clever multi-taskers and transmedia pundits. A nice example: the label Augustin teboul, whose surreal fashion fi lms did their rounds on the net in no time. nowadays the Berlin label has become the darling of international fashion journalism, mainly be-

PuBliSher B+B MediA CoMPAny gMBh hiLdeBrAndtstr. 24 d 40215 dÜsseLdorF teLeFon +49 (0)211 8303 0 teLeFAX +49 (0)211 8303 200 inFo@JnC-net.de, WWW.JnC-net.de MAnAging direCtor AndrÉ WeiJde editor-in-ChieF iLonA MArX IM editoriAl StAFF AndreAs grÜter AG JoLien deCKers PhotogrAPhy LindA ALFVegren, nAdiA deL dÒ, renÉ FietZeK, AMos FriCKe, AXeL sieBMAnn, ChristoPh Voy, KAtiA WiK, Andi ZiMMerMAnn

cause – who’d have thought it – the ladies are no amateurs when it comes to the WWW. so, pessimist nick Knight needs to chill out. the ladies from the glossy publications are certainly willing to give labels a chance, even when they aren’t booking double spreads for advertising, and they are no slouches when it comes to spotting talent either. Between inspirational photo editorials and in-depth reports, Qr codes are also being printed on paper. Armed with an adequately equipped mobile device you can check out a cool fashion fi lm whilst leafing through the pages. After all, we weren’t born yesterday dear nick!

illuStrAtion FrAuKe Berg, roMAn KLoneK, VAnessA PAuLZen FreelAnCe ContriButorS gerLind heCtor, sVeA JÖrgens, eVA WesthoFF EW, FrederiCKe WinKLer FW trAnSlAtion PAuLA hedLey, gALinA green WWW.trendtrAnsLAtions.de deSign & lAyout MArtin steinigen, CheWing the sun; WWW.CheWingthesun.CoM iMAge editing JeAn PAsCAL ZAhn CoPy editor eVA WesthoFF

heAd oF ProduCtion uWe sChAuFLer ProduCtion ASSiStAnt PiA sChÄFer Print stÜrtZ druCK, WÜrZBurg AdvertiSing Pierre d’AVetA teLeFon +49 (0)211 8303 151 P.dAVetA@BB-MediACoMPAny.CoM AdvertiSing dirK hoFFMAnn teLeFon +49 (0)211 8303 242 d.hoFFMAnn@ BB-MediACoMPAny.CoM PriCe gerMAny 9,50 euro A, nL, B 10,50 euro; e, P, i 11,50 euro sWitZerLAnd 15.80 ChF

BAnk detAilS BtV BAnK For tiroL u. VorArLBerg Ag Kto: 772898000, BLZ: 72012300 dAtA ProteCtion notiCe in the event that delivery is not possible under the address supplied, deutsche Post dhL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. the subscriber can appeal against this guideline/regulation. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. the magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. Place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases düsseldorf.

JULY 4–6, 2012 PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW BERLIN HALL 7

www.dieselblackgold.com

Distribution via Diesel Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf, phone 0049-211-41856-0

Book Lookin’ reVieWs

Pieter Hugo, 2005

Akira rides a Vindec Bicycle Elinor rides a Pashley Princess Sovereign

horst A. Friedrichs Cycle Style Perhaps you’ve noticed them. they’ve certainly caught our eye often enough during our street people photo shoots: the hip metropolis inhabitants on their trusty two-wheelers. But the specimens that horst A. Friedrichs is now presenting us with in terms of urban bicycle culture – we ungrudgingly acknowledge – are in a whole other league. ‘Cycle style’ is the story of man and his bike in perfect symbiosis. Along the lines of: show me your saddle, and i’ll tell you who you are, the german photographer, born in 1966, has covered mile after mile of London’s well-developed network of cycle routes to capture the trend-conscious two-wheel community on camera in the style of classic street style photography. Like Para, for example, with his golden 1980s rossin tt; or Jules on her light blue, slightly more down-to-earth-looking globe A1 Premium with little woven handlebar basket, who seems to have just discovered a ladder in her pink tights. Friedrichs, who has lived in the British capital since 1997 and who, in the past, has photographed the ‘21st Century rockers’ and the ‘21st Century Mods’ here, really knows his subcultures. And the London cycling scene is definitely a subculture. not least because the city is home to the ‘tweed run’: once a year in London hundreds of cycling dandies dressed in the styles of the 1920s to 1940s meet up for a group bicycle ride – on bikes that often have parts that date as far back as that too. And this also explains why, instead of jeans and trainers, which you would assume would be a suitable look for fans of this method of transportation, a large number of the approximately 200 ‘Cycle style’ street people prefer vintage attire such as waistcoats, suit jackets and knickerbockers. But even everyday cyclists refute every cliché of cycling environmentalist or student. despite continuously rising petrol prices, cycling in 2012 is no longer about merely saving money, but has become a way of life: the bicycle is a prestige object, or at the very least a trend accessory. even fashion houses like gucci, hermès and Armani have jumped onto the bandwagon. And not only them: the list of cyclists portrayed by Friedrichs also includes designer Paul smith, who is pictured going for a spin in front of his London atelier – of course on a Mercian track Bike, which is also available with Paul smith signature. /ew

CyCle Style is published by Prestel, Munich and costs 24.95 Euros.

tamar garb (Publ.) Figures & Fictions – Contemporary South African Photography it’s been 18 years since nelson Mandela was inaugurated as the first black president of south Africa, finally bringing the system of apartheid to an end for everyone from the Cape to Pretoria. two decades have now passed since the revolutionary changes in south Africa – a time in which they hosted a World Cup and, growing in self-confidence, dealt with the fallout of the colonial period and the consequences of apartheid. so where does south Africa stand now? What is it like to live in a country with eleven official languages and hundreds of different ethnic groups? With deserts, archaic villages and modern metropolises where, just a few miles away from the next township, Michelin-starred food is being served and designer fashion being modelled for glossy ad campaigns? Well, the situation in south Africa is certainly not quite as the average european would envisage. opening the 312-page ‘Figures & Fictions’ you are in for a surprise: a photograph by Cape town photographer Pieter hugo shows an older white married couple in a humble-looking living room. Between them on the ‘couch’, which appears to have originally been the backseat of a minibus, sits a small black boy in smart jeans and a dazzling white polo shirt. the story behind this mysterious ‘family portrait’ is explained in an interview with the photographer, to be found in the appendix along with essays on all seventeen of the south African photographers compiled for this book. We find out the boy is the son of black middle-class parents from whom the white couple rent a room. so is it a topsy-turvy world? After almost two decades of post-apartheid, this shouldn’t even be the question. this was tamar garb’s opinion too. A professor of art history, she put together this compendium of contemporary south African photography as part of an exhibition for the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. the exhibition covers work from 2000 to 2010. the list of artists includes photographers like david goldblatt, the father of south African documentary photography who, in 1998, was the first south African to have a monograph exhibition dedicated to him at the MoMA, as well as remarkable members of the younger generation like Jodi Bieber and newcomers like Kudzanai Chiurai, who, in his series entitled ‘the Black President’, creates an imaginary south African cabinet with an ironic twinkle in his eye. As the title suggests, ‘Figures & Fictions’ offers a broad spectrum of stylistic and expressive forms – from social documentary to the scrutiny of pop-cultural symbols down to postmodern reflections on the medium of photography. But across the board one thing stands out: in almost every case it is the human being and his identity that is under the spotlight. /ew

FigureS & FiCtionS is published by Steidl, Göttingen and costs 48 Euros.

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES I WWW.VICTORINOX.COM

DisC Diggin’ reVieWs

nick Waterhouse

rosi golan

the nightingales

V/A

Are you on the search for something new amongst the clutter of insignificant neo-retro tunage? nick Waterhouse is here to help. the 25-year-old san Francisco r&B and soul wonder boy, whose first single is currently changing hands for around 200 dollars and whose performances with his band the tarots is finally giving dance a name again. With simple vintage analogue equipment and the suitable recording technology, he is giving the genre a sound, which, despite all references to the music of the 50s and 60s, is both authentic and timelessly modern. And so perhaps it’s only logical that ‘time’s All gone’, his recently released and really incredible monster of a debut album, crackles like vinyl, but is actually only available on Cd and as a download. A 100 percent full-force dancefloor killer. We recommend the incredible ‘say, i Wanna Know’ Buy or die!! /ag

okay, we admit: recordings that come with Pr text booklets advertising “singer/songwriter” skills and the “beauty of contemplative folk songs” will find it hard to get in our good books. And rightly so, as proven by the 95 percent who yawningly strum away on their acoustic guitars. But the exceptions to the rule do crop up now and again, like rosi golan for example. Born in israel and now based in Los Angeles, the musician has recorded twelve wonderfully warm and pleasantly unpretentious little masterpieces of modern Americana for ‘Lead Balloon’ together with her artist friends, which work just as well on a green summer meadow and by the campfire in the evening as they do in cosy front room clubs and on the turntables of certified hustlers. together with the extremely tasteful cover artwork this really is music to your ears. /ag

there they are again, the tastefully grinding post-punk saw guitars, the irregular crashing drum inserts and the sometimes charmingly poppy, sometimes angry, sometimes cynically whispered vocals, which, back in the 80s, made the incomparable the nightingales a firm favourite in various european dirty basement dives. it’s been 28 years since their fantastic hit single ‘the Crunch’ and 20 years since their official break-up; in the meantime some members of the dynamic Birmingham band went off to play soul punk in the band goldblade, but now they are back. since 2006 they have been releasing unwieldy tracks at regular intervals which combine the noise of the early punk years with the noise of Wall of sound pop, kraut rock and noise rock to form a contemporary, extremely exciting and sometimes surprisingly elegant melee. the 13 songs on ‘no Love Lost’ will not float the boat of the masses, nor are they a suitable opener for the next alternative festival performance and they are definitely not chartstormers – but that's why we love 'em. turn up ‘someone for everyone’ to the max. death to trad rock! /ag

no question, the Baltic soul Weekender has grown up. starting out as an insider party tip for distinguished scene connoisseurs of soul and r&B from the 60s and 70s, the former concert happening at the Weissenhäuser strand seaside holiday resort has long since developed into a popular indoor festival for soulful and electronic music. And this development is also palpable in the accompanying compilation series: as well as dancefloor groovers by old heroes like the temptations, gladys Knight & the Pips, the o’Jays and the trammps, the meanwhile fifth edition also includes tracks by young artists including Cee Lo green, Musiq soulchild and raheem deVaughn. the smart package, which gives you 15 good excuses to get on your feet, also comes with extensive and well-written liner notes and background stories. Fantastic. /ag

(innovAtive leiSure/Alive)

(SnoWhite/univerSAl)

(Cooking vinyl/indigo)

(unique/groove AttACk)

time’s all gone

lead Balloon

no love lost

Baltic Soul Weekender # 5

gAD gets Must-hAVes

hörbert

MuSiCAl toy BoX What do you do when your little rays of sunshine not only discover music and audio books, but also get their hands on your beloved record collection and hi-fi components? instead of falling into panic or a state of shock and cordoning off the danger zone as best you can, we recommend you to try out hörbert. the beautifully designed portable MP3 audio player for children, which is made entirely from locallysourced timber, anodised aluminium and stainless steel not only offers a rich sound, robust on/off and volume buttons and nine brightly coloured selection buttons, onto which parents can individually transfer various audio books and music, but can also be individually engraved after purchasing. 140 minutes of samples, music and audio books plus a memory card with space for 8.5 hours of entertainment are included. And just in case your little one does happen to break anything, the accessories shop offers replacements for almost all parts. 239 euros well spent. www.hoerbert.com

Fahrradi Farfalla FFX

PedAl PoWer you’re thinking the colour’s right, the design is perfect, but there’s something very suspicious about this Ferrari! Well observed sherlock! What at first sight seems like the latest 600 Ps coup by the sophisticated north italian automobile experts reveals itself upon closer inspection to be a racing car fake: instead of a roaring eight-cylinder engine it is operated purely by leg muscle power. this unique chain-driven pedal-powered model with the gull-wing doors which flap open and shut like a butterfly while driving is the brainchild of Austrian artist hannes Langeder, who, following his Ferdinand gt3 rs, is now providing his ‘Millionaire’s snail’ racing team, which was set up in 2011, with a second slow-moving roadster. test drives, which incidentally are also possible in the dark thanks to the 200 Led lights, can be booked with Langeder himself. For further details and prices, we recommend you take a look at: http://fahrradi.han-lan.com.

symbol Audio

Sound MAChine you want the most modern hi-end sound quality, but you feel that the aesthetics of the early hi-fi years driven by the warm designs and experimental sound technology are lacking? the Modern record Console by new york audio expert symbol is made for you. Visually inspired by the classic all-in-one sideboards with inbuilt record player and speakers of the late 50s, the system not only comes in a finely polished walnut wood corpus with steel base with a patina created meticulously by hand, but also offers the maximum technical output. the tube amplifier is handmade, the record player is fitted with a carbon fibre tonearm and top-notch sumiko Blue Pont no. 2 system and the electronics are completely custom designed. two built-in 6.5” speakers and a subwoofer controlled by a second amplifier regulate the sound. But if, despite all of this vinyl mania, you still want to be able to play your MP3 music collection – go ahead, the leap into the digital world is just the touch of a WiFi button away. Further information and price requests at: www.symbolaudio.com. 16

Capsule Pen

Write in! droP out! Pill boxes have always been regarded as a creative wasteland for product designers, but all of that could be about to change. the pioneer of the new transport format for daily vitamin supplements, uppers, downers and any other medical helpers is new york designer Joseph Cole, whose Capsule Pen should not only satisfy the aesthetic demands of regular users, but is also in with a good chance of becoming a real hit on the 24/7/365 party scene. As we went to press it still hadn’t been confirmed whether the pill box disguised as a pen will actually go into mass production. there is currently a crowd-funding appeal on the product’s own website, where you can also find further information and a video about the project. www.capsulepen.com

INNOVATION. bOrN IN iskO The most creative and reliable partner for brands and designers

IllustratIon Roman Klonek

City Guide MadrId

Street People tradition in technicolor

Hot Spots nueva Movida Madrile単a

Ariadna 29, Stylist sHIrt

Céline 40, Shop

Vintage

t-sHIrt Alexander

PullovEr Mobo Pants H&M stockInGs

My grandma’s

sHoEs Nike

tradition in teChni Color PHotos Andi Zimmermann

nEcklacE From

my parents

I originally come from Barcelona and I moved here for the music – there’s more rock ’n’ roll here!

It’s a strange phenomenon: everyone in northern Europe, including France and Germany, and even Portugal and Italy, tends to dress mainly in understated black – with only spain breaking the ranks! Especially Madrid, known for its excessive nightlife, revels in all the colours of the rainbow – the brighter the better. after all, it’s all about being noticed amidst the other nocturnal revellers, otherwise you might as well stay at home.

Wang Vintage Comme des Garçons Pants Citizens of Humanity sHoEs Martin Margiela JackEt

Madrid is really particular when it comes to fashion: people here aren’t too keen on black – it’s the colour we sell least of.

Cisco 24, Student Architecture

Christina 33, Advertising Producer

JackEt, HoodIE & Pants H&M

drEss COS

sHoEs Nike

cardIGan & stockInGs

WatcH Clycine

sHoEs

compared to the rest of Europe, everything takes a little longer for things to catch on here – like the popular vintage look for example.

Madrid isn’t a fashion city, but because people from all over the world meet here, there’s always a nice style mix.

H&M

Weo nEcklacE A present

Jesús 31, Sales Assistant JackEt & sHIrt

Zara

Pants Edwin sHoEs

Car Shoe

BElt Gucci

JackEt Pull t-sHIrt My

& Bear father’s

dEnIM JackEt, skIrt & BaG Zara nEcklacE H&M

scarF & rInGs Vintage

rInG Selfmade

GlassEs My

sHoEs

father’s

the Madrilenians don’t really pay much attention to labels. If your backside looks good in the trousers then who cares what the label says?!

Martina 32, Bartender

Converse

I come from Italy and enjoy the fact that Madrid is more cosmopolitan – there is more choice.

Serge 35, Fashion Designer

Carla 34, Bag Designer

coat & t-sHIrt Burberry

coat & Pants Topshop

trousErs Jean

sHoEs Zara

Paul Gaultier sHoEs Vivienne Westwood BaG Burberry Prorsum Alex 23, Sales Assistant raIncoat Comme des GarĂ§ons Jacket Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Red trousErs Gareth Pugh Boots Burberry BaG Jean Paul Gaultier

We come from Barcelona and are visiting friends in Madrid. Everything you can buy here you can also get in Barcelona!

BaG La

Carola

You can find any kind of trend in Madrid!

Maria-Rosario 24, Student

Tove 31, Photographer

JackEt & cardIGan Zara

sHIrt COS

drEss H&M

Pants

Pants Space

coat Vintage

sHoEs

ASOS

McQueen by Marc Jacobs rInG From Naples

Vintage Jil Sander Céline Boots Isabel Marant

scarF Alexander BaG Marc

I come from Italy, and I am surprised at how different and how much more relaxed everything is here when it comes to fashion!

I love the older ladies, dressed really classically from head to toe. You don’t see that so often in northern Europe. Silas 27, Dancer JackEt Marc

Jacobs Apparel

PullovEr American Pants Acne traInErs Nike scarF

Vintage Armani Dries van Noten

sunGlassEs

People here like to look rich – and even manage that when they are dressed in clothes from Zara!

Vanessa 33, Sales Assistant

Silvia 31, Psychologist

t-sHIrt, Pants & cardIGan

JackEt Bench

Isabel Marant sHoEs Vans

sHIrt H&M stockInGs Skunkfunk

From Italy From the market BaG Femisa Objetos Perdidos Boots

Madrid used to be very traditional and elegant â&#x20AC;&#x201C; nowadays the fashion is a lot more relaxed and casual.

scarF

there are plenty of well-dressed people here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially on the nightlife scene. I like that!

City Guide MadrId

nueva Movida Madrileña tExt Ilona Marx PHotos Andi Zimmermann

Elegant and rich in heritage, but slightly dusty – that’s been Madrid's reputation over the last few decades. The city’s famous façades, paid for with gold and silver from the New World, brought back by ship from Peru and Mexico, dominates the scenery, whilst the Madrilenian underground seemed to have only survived in the 80s film classics of Pedro Almodóvar. But then the turning point came: the spanish metropolis has been experiencing a surge of creativity, the like of which has not been seen since the Movida Madrileña youth movement, when Franco died. and that applies to all areas: whether it’s the fashion scene, gastro culture or the art world – confronted with an economic crisis and an unemployment rate of over 24 percent in the first quarter of 2012, a lot of Madrilenians have been rolling up their shirt sleeves and, in many cases, daring to reinvent themselves from scratch. Possibly with even more enthusiasm than the catalans in Barcelona, because here at the country’s centre they are not quite as spoilt. the ocean is far away and the winters can be punishing. Even at the end of april it’s common to have temperatures like those in northern Europe. to make up for it, the city, which has 3.3 million inhabitants and is therefore the third largest in Europe, has a depth and earnestness that is sometimes missing in happy-go-lucky Barcelona. the best example is art. With the three internationally renowned museums, the Prado, the thyssen-Bornemisza Museum and the Museo reina sofía, Madrid has an incomparable concentration of masterpieces and comes on as quite the intellectual compared to its party-girl sister on the Mediterranean. But the metropolis still knows how to have a good time. Madrilenian nightlife is famed for its excesses. You head out late – and don’t get home till dawn. Especially in the chuecas district, previously known for its gay scene, now a playground for the urban youth, and the Barrio de Malasaña, known for its alternative lifestyle, many new bars and restaurants have sprung up. Elsewhere, for example in the chic district of salamanca, a few newcomers are adding the icing on the cake of the already exclusive shopping and gastro scene. the Madrilenians won’t be kept down. they have declared war on the crisis and risen to the challenge like toreros. Because they really do exist, the young business minds willing to tread new paths – and there are more of them around than you would think. But whether or not their chutzpah will be rewarded remains to be seen over the next few years. J’n’c editor-in-chief Ilona Marx and photographer andi Zimmermann were certainly blown away and inspired by the new concepts these young metropolitans are coming up with. We recommend all you Barcelona fans out there to give Madrid a chance too! 26

FroM tHE rooFtoP tErracE oF tHE cIrcula dE BEllas artEs You can EnJoY tHE BEst vIEWs oF MadrId as Far as tHE sIErra dE GuadarraMa MountaIn ranGE.

HoT SpoTS MadrId SHopping

Kl EkSEpTion & EkS Km MoTT Kn do dESign Kt lubnA Ln 2nd downTown Lo l.A. STudio Lp CASA poSTAl Lq iSoléE

p 28 p 29 p 30 p 36 p 38 p 40 p 41 p 42

EAT, dRink & SlEEp

Ko El CoCinillAS Kq bAR ToMATE Kr boCAiTo Ks ÚniCo Lk luzi boMbón Ll lA TRAinERA Lm TEn Con TEn Ls MAnTEquERiA bRAVo Lt Junk Club

p 30 p 32 p 34 p 35 p 37 p 38 p 38 p 44 p 45

ARTS & CulTuRE

Kp lA ERizA Lr HElgA dE AlVEAR

p 32 p 42

CHECk THESE ouT LA CASA dEL AbuELo (sIncE 1906, onE oF tHE oldEst and BEst taPas Bars!) WWW.lacasadElaBuElo.Es LoEWE (aMaZInGlY BEautIFul drEssEs and GrEat BaGs. also aMaZInGlY ExPEnsIvE!) WWW.loEWE.Es ÓSCAr HoTEL (rIGHt In tHE cEntrE oF tHE cHuEca nIGHtlIFE dIstrIct – tHE HIPstEr HotsPot!) WWW.rooM-MatEHotEls.coM LA frESH gALLEry (YounG art and a YounG clIEntElE – tHE uP-and-coMInG GallErY In MadrId!) WWW.laFrEsHGallErY.coM EL PArAguAS (tradItIonal GalIcIan cuIsInE – MucHo tastY!) WWW.ElParaGuas.coM gALEríA oLivA ArAuNA (a PIonEEr WHEn It coMEs to vIdEo art and PHotoGraPHY.) WWW.olIvarauna.coM PANTA rHEi (GrEat BooksHoP In cHuEca – InsPIrInG!) WWW.Panta-rHEI.Es bodEgA dE LA ArdoSA (ancIEnt PuB – oPEn FroM 8 aM untIl 2 aM!) WWW.laardosa.coM L’HAbiLLEur (IntErnatIonal FasHIon Brands on tWo Floors) PlaZa dE cHuEca 8 dELiC (vErY cosY caFé on onE oF tHE PrEttIEst squarEs In MadrId.) WWW.dElIc.Es CAfETEriA Hd (BurGErs and cHIPs In a vErY cool sIxtIEs sEttInG – ExcEPtIonal!) WWW.GruPolaMusa.coM LovE diSPENSAry (lovElY sHoP sEllInG toP Brands: acnE, MartIn MarGIEla, carvEn Et al) WWW.lovEdIsPEnsarY.coM

EkSEpTion & EkS the name gives it away: the two stores Ekseption and Eks, sitting shoulder to shoulder on the lively calle de velázquez, are truly exceptional. not only because of their exclusive label portfolio, but also their history: 26 years ago, the present owner’s father, Bernhart Beteinber, opened the doors of his boutique in Marbella. there may have been plenty of sun there, but it wasn’t exactly a shopping hotspot for real fashionistas. unlike the capital city, which is where the family then opened a dépendance in 1988, and soon became well established on the shopping scene. Exclusive sales rights for labels like chloé, céline, dries van noten, Balmain and Fendi, which, according to current owner céline Beteinber, are not available anywhere else in the city, attract a star-studded clientele like Penélope cruz for example. and her friend and mentor Pedro almodóvar, the famous director, sometimes gets costumes for his films here. In addition to the main business, covering a spacious 1000 m², céline has opened a young branch right next door called Eks. this is where you’ll find arty avantgarde orientated styles by acne, Phillip lim and Forty_Forty. EkSEpTion & EkS c/ vElÁZquEZ, 28 28001 MadrId t +34 91 5774353 WWW.EksEPtIon.Es

MoTT Everyone who knows new York has heard of it: Mott street, in the nolita part of town, which gave laura losada the inspiration for the name. With good reason. a large part of her range consists of american labels that are mainly unknown in Europe. such as jewellery by alc and YPl, bags by lauren Merkin and the fashion brands Inhabit and raquel allegra. But despite her penchant for the country over the big pond laura feels connected to other parts of the world too. séssun, Majestic, Elsa Esturgie and vive la différence represent the European part of the world. What all the labels have in common, however, is something that is quite important to the pretty 38-year-old: they are up-and-coming and affordable at the same time. a casual style is the basic tenet, nicely complemented by the vintage showcases, old tiling and rustic, soft wood furniture. “I want my customers to feel right at home and for them to take their time whilst browsing,” is how laura, who used to work in advertising, explains her design philosophy. she put together most of the interior by trawling flea markets and antique stores herself. Her commitment to making it so pleasing to the eye certainly attracted enough customers and so together with her brother she opened a second store nearby. It is called ‘oak’, and unlike Mott, is half-filled with menswear. the fact that oak street is also in new York, albeit in Brooklyn, can be considered a further homage by the brother and sister team to their beloved new York. MoTT c/ BarquIllo, 31 28004 MadrId t +34 91 3081280 WWW.MottMadrId.coM

do dESign

El CoCinillAS

do design is a recent addition to the Madrid shopping scene that is setting benchmarks. the young owner lucia ruiz-rivas sees the name as a call for action for her compatriots to defy the spanish economic crisis. In october 2011 she dared to take the plunge into self-employment and was enthusiastically welcomed by the local fashion scene. despite the fact that her store comes across as totally untypical for spain: light wood and warm earthy tones dominate the space and are more reminiscent of scandinavia. a small hut construction made of pine boards is similar to the design in rei kawakubo’s dover street Market in london. and it turns out that lucia didn’t just study fashion and art in spain but also at the famous kuvataideakatemia in Helsinki. she still looks back to those days for a lot of her inspiration and acquires products from her circle of former fellow students. as well as fashion, by designers including Henrik vibskov, uniforms for the dedicated and a kind of Guise – she also sells ceramics, illustrations, jewellery and magazines. the fact that the entire assortment is so nicely arranged is not only down to the petite spaniard’s fashion know-how: lucia’s father, an architect, knows exactly how to design spaces and how to best arrange items within a room. It’s a talent he has obviously passed on to his daughter.

the omnipresent crisis has changed spain quite a bit. For example the life of Julian lara, the owner of El cocinillas. originally the restaurant proprietor worked as a graphic designer. But then he lost his job – a good reason for a fresh start. “I have always loved shopping at markets and cooking for friends,” says the good-looking Julian, who is in his mid-30s. “they were also the ones who encouraged me to open a restaurant.” It should also be mentioned that Julian is following in the footsteps of his grandmother who opened the first ever pizzeria in Marbella, in the sixties. and it’s her and her daughter (Julian’s mother) who provided some of the recipes that make cocinillas so popular amongst the Madrileños. For example the one for polpette with caponata siciliana, meatballs in sicilian ratatouille. the pumpkin filled with sheep cheese, fresh spinach, strawberry vinaigrette and pine kernels wrapped in aluminium foil, however, is one of the creations of the chef. and his good taste – thanks to his design degree – doesn’t just stop when it comes to the food. the interior, with its black and white checked marble floor, whitewashed red brick walls and black industrial lamps exude good taste and cosiness. speaking of which: a maximum of 45 guests can be seated at the ten tables so a laid-back, familiar atmosphere is part and parcel of the El cocinillas experience.

do dESign c/ FErnando vI, 13 28004 MadrId t +34 91 3106 217 WWW.dodEsIGn.Es

El CoCinillAS c/ san JoaquÍn, 3 28004 MadrId t +34 91 5232960 WWW.rEstaurantEElcocInIllas.coM

bAR ToMATE

lA ERizA It’s not just his talent as a bookbinder that has made Óscar sanchez lozano a Madrid institution. Part of his local fame is thanks to the exotic interior of his workshop. smart Óscar, who studied art in london, certainly has an eccentric style. For example he had the walls in the salesroom painted in black and yellow repeat patterns, the counter is laminated in a green marbled foil and the whole scene is illuminated by an opulent crystal chandelier. You almost feel like you’ve landed in a surreal tim Burton film, especially when you see the sea urchin installation, in prime position under a bell jar on the counter. this extravagant work of art has an equally extravagant story behind it: the artist dean claydon, who had painstakingly painted the walls of la Eriza by hand, demanded in return that the echinoderm object d’art be part of the interior. and that is how the sea urchin came to become the logo and namesake of the workshop. ‘Erizo’ is spanish for the ocean creature. ‘la Eriza’, the feminine form, doesn't actually exist. long live free thinking! lA ERizA c/ colÓn, 15 28004 MadrId t +34 91 5214061

Madrid is bursting with all kinds of great restaurants. But the population’s hunger for culinary hotspots still hasn’t been sated by a long chalk. How else can you explain the success of the new additions to the scene, such as ten con ten (p. 38), luzi Bombón (p. 37) – and especially Bar tomate? admittedly, those running tomate are anything but wet behind the ears: the establishment is owned by the tragaluz group, based in Barcelona, where they have already had great success with their spectacularly furnished establishments. nevertheless: Madrid is not Barcelona, and so approval from the fastidious Madrilenians was far from being a forgone conclusion. But the visuals alone were enough to win over even the biggest complainer. the elongated room with broad oak floorboards is warmly lit with an assortment of discarded industrial lamps. round tables in the middle and square ones at the windows, all decorated with small tomato plants, are inviting and cosy. the entire decor consists of warm grey-brown tones – the coloured background to the spicy aroma of the open fire wafting through the room. naturally the signature dishes come out of the wood-fired oven too: crispy specialities like the half-sweet baked tomatoes and the burrata pizza with basil and sun-dried tomatoes. the rest of the menu is dominated by Mediterranean dishes, without any extra frills, but prepared with love. bAR ToMATE c/ FErnando El santo, 26 28046 MadrId t +34 91 7023870 WWW.GruPotraGaluZ.coM

boCAiTo What do ralph Fiennes, antonio Banderas, John Galliano, rupert Everett and Pedro almodóvar have in common? correct: they all love the unashamedly delicious tapas served up by concha ortega and her husband Francisco Bravo, the owners of Bocaito, to a number of highly illustrious guests. the tapas bar has been going since 1966 and is considered one of the best in town. Francisco’s uncle used to be the chef, and, at least where the interior of the bar is concerned, not much has changed since his time. as always the ambience is dominated by four rustically furnished halls. the walls are decorated with matadors and flamenco dancers who seem to be looking on somewhat enviously as the diners eat. Which is certainly understandable, as the small tostados with gambas or smoked cod, pike tartar and caviar and the famous croquettes are irresistible. In addition to the tapas the main courses are also impressive, especially the fritura de pescaítos prepared in pure andalusian, accompanied by salad hearts with tuna. the whole thing is rounded off with fruit salad which – look away now health freaks! – is lavishly covered in whipped cream and soaked in fruit brandy. anyone needing more convincing should take a look at the in-house celebrity gallery. concha not only has a fine flair for spanish cuisine, but also for celebrities who don’t mind being papped by her in the slightest. boCAiTo c/ lIBErtad, 6 28004 MadrId t +34 91 5321219 WWW.BocaIto.coM

Único It’s all in the name: the Hotel Único truly is unique. And that’s not just down to its perfect location, an old city palace, nestled amongst bustling shops and restaurants in the exclusive shopping area of Salamanca, like an oasis of peace, enjoying its regal status as the only five-star establishment in the area. No less outstanding is the service, which blows any competition the 44-room hotel might have, clean out of the water. Whether a hotel resident requires a personal shopper or trainer, a helicopter trip over the old capital city Toledo or wants one of the best seats in the famous Teatro Real – the concierges at Único make it happen. Even impossible-seeming demands like the reservation of a table at the most popular restaurant in town seems possible because at Único, naturally, they have the best possible contacts to the important restaurant managers. And they don’t have anything to be ashamed of in that department either, with their in-house restaurant boasting two Michelin stars. The exclusive restaurant with only seven tables, situated in the lower floor of the hotel is extremely popular too. Chef Ramon Freixa is always good for a mouth-watering surprise and in the summer – between May and October to be precise – he has a real surprise up his sleeve: guests can dine al fresco in the hotel’s beautiful garden courtyard. Único C/ CLAUDIO COELLO, 67 28001 MADRID T +34 91 7810173 WWW.UNICOHOTELMADRID.COM

Lubna Just like its southern European neighbours Italy and Portugal, Spain is a real paradise for shoe lovers. But independent retailers aren’t having an easy time of it at the moment. They are really feeling the burn from Zara, Massimo Dutti, Uterqüe and consorts. The consequence: even in the fashionable shopping district of Salamanca, the choice of upmarket shoe retailers is minimal – not counting the Louboutin store, which is always inundated with female heel junkies. A refreshing alternative is Lubna, a store furnished with light timbers where the range is dominated by fashionable understatement and which offers a pleasant change from the usual choice of ballerinas or high heels. They’ve been dealing in shoes here for 25 years and even now the famous Spanish passion bubbles up in conversation with the sales personnel – some of them have been working here for that long too, and are involved not just in sales but also in choosing the ranges on offer. So it makes sense that they are excited by their own portfolio. High quality handcrafted, mainly Italian, shoes by Emma Hope, Roberto del Carlo and Santoni fill the shelves. Prices between 200 and 400 Euros emphasise the honesty of the shoes on offer. And, as we all know, “honesty is the best policy”. So, we can only wish them another successful 25 years! Lubna C/ LAGASCA, 23 28001 MADRID T +34 91 4310139

Luzi bombón We are in a “modern brasserie” José Fontana, the young co-manager of Luzi Bombón insists. Which seems to be a bit of an understatement to us. Although the menu is quite small, the interior is all the more lavish for it. Every single table in the 500m² eatery is heaving. Over a short period of time Luzi Bombón has developed into a genuine people magnet. “It was pretty risky to rent a place of this size,” José admits. But for Rosa Maria Esteva, co-owner of the Tragaluz Group, it was love at first sight with this modern space with the large window front. The challenge of creating a cosy ambience here was met with bravura by her daughter Sandra Tarruella: dark, warm colours, moulded woods, an open fire and a central bar are the cornerstones of the interior design concept. The guests pour themselves champagne or sit slurping oysters at the bar, eating on a podium integrated into the room, enjoying the views from the tables next to the windows or cuddling up in the soft seating area by the open fire. A suitable scenario is conjured up here for every mood, occasion and preference, as well as creating a homogenous appeal thanks to the use of the same materials being used consistently throughout. The building block principle is also applied to the menu: a choice of several fish and meat dishes can be combined with a wide range of side dishes. The modest prices tempt experimentation. Or can you imagine just how well Iberian ham goes with bush beans ‘al curry’? Luzi bombón PASEO DE LA CASTELLANA, 35 28046 MADRID T +34 91 7022736 WWW.GRUPOTRAGALUZ.COM

La Trainera The luxury liner of fish restaurants: the longestablished La Trainera can certainly claim to be serving up the freshest seafood of the city. A large part of their offer is flown in directly from the Spanish coast by private jet. That’s certainly a class act to follow! In 1966 Miguel García Gómez, originally from the León region, started his business in a modest space covering just 45 m². He may have felt destiny was calling when he started the restaurant: apparently the gastronomes from Miguel’s home turf have the best fish restaurants in the country. The reason is a historical one: in the days when fish was still delivered inland by horse and carriage they always stopped off in León. And so a tradition of fish preparation grew there. History aside: the modern day La Trainera has twelve appealing rooms with a maritime cabin character. Up to 400 guests will find a place at the varnished tables between ship steering wheels and portholes. Miguel is meanwhile 88 years old and has passed the business on to his son-in-law Victor Hernandez García. But that doesn’t stop him popping by every day to make sure everything’s running smoothly – and in his eyes there is no need for extravagant culinary fripperies. The fish, the patrón insists, is dished up simple and honest, mainly grilled or sautéed and served with potatoes. The signature dishes like Salpicón de Mariscos, Galician Pulpo and Delicias de Merluza con Gambas are likewise fantastic. Only the fear of a protein shock could keep a fish fan from working his way through the entire menu. La Trainera C/ LAGASCA, 60 28001 MADRID T +34 91 5768035 WWW.LATRAINERA.ES

Ten con Ten How is a hype created? This is a secret that many a new restaurant owner would no doubt like to know. It wouldn't do any harm to take a closer look at the restaurant owned by the Galician Sandro Silva and his wife Marta Seco then. Because, no matter what it is the couple set their minds to, they seem to have a season ticket to success. Not only their El Paraguas, a gourmet restaurant serving traditional cuisine, is buzzing, but also their latest new gem Ten Con Ten, a restaurant-bar serving upmarket bistro cuisine. The secret of their success? Take a large room with tall windows and put in a central counter as the hub for seeing and being seen. Then add plenty of cosy corners with comfortably upholstered seating which no-one will want to leave. To round it all off, illuminate the whole thing in warm lighting and add some gentle jazz tunes. Now all you need is attentive staff, totally tuned into the wishes of the customer and, of course, wonderful food. Which is the point at which we should mention the cod with roast apples, risotto with truffle oil and the langoustines in coconut curry, which Madrid’s young in-crowd seems to love, just as much as their parents who like to bring their well-behaved offspring to Ten Con Ten after their weekly Saturday Salamanca shopping spree. Their mission here is to cater for all generations and their different tastes – which is one of the building blocks of their overnight success. Ten con Ten C/ AYALA, 6 28001 MADRID T +34 91 5759254 WWW.RESTAURANTETENCONTEN.COM

2nd downTown Travel has long been a favourite hobby of graphic designer Javier Blasco. But it was the Spanish economic crisis that finally gave him and his business partner the kick required to turn their hobby into a career. In 2009 the two globetrotters opened a shop for exotic handmade home textiles, so Javier is now in the happy position of being able to jet off to far-flung parts of the world several times a year – on business of course. After all, his customers are just crazy about the carpets, blankets, throws and scarves, which the owners import back from various countries. The antique hammam wraps from Istanbul are particularly popular as are the hand woven Indian cashmere blankets with paisley patterns. They can cost up to 2500 Euros but, thanks to their finest quality wool and elaborate production, they are worth every penny. In addition to the home textiles they also stock beautifully crafted silver jewellery, which the two aesthetes find impossible to pass by. Real connoisseurs, however, don’t just spend their time travelling to far-off destinations, but also find happiness on their own doorstep, which is why Blasco and Beascoa also run the restaurant Casa Fidel and the fashion store L’Habilleur, two further oases in the urban jungle. Not just to earn a living, but simply for the sheer pleasure of it. 2nd downTown C/ SAN PEDRO, 18 28014 MADRID T +34 91 4297258

L.a. STudio Rastro in the south of Madrid is the biggest flea market in all of Europe. But that’s not the only thing tempting global flea market fans to the Spanish capital. Countless vintage furniture dealerships have popped up all around the second-hand Mecca, enriching the offer with valuable collector’s items. L.A. Studio, a store the size of a warehouse that specialises in design classics of the twentieth century, is not to be missed. Now in its third generation, the owner family knows all there is to know about antiques. Where originally the emphasis was on furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries, the family started concentrating on 20th century design when the business passed into the hands of the younger generation. Carlos López is the man now steering the fortune of L.A. Studio. His favourite: furniture design dating between the 1940s and 60s from other European countries. “These two decades were, politically speaking, a terrible time here in Spain,” he explains the reasoning behind his speciality. “We didn’t have much energy left over for things like design.” What he missed out on then he is certainly catching up on now – and word has got around of his expertise. Pedro Almodóvar for one, has furnished many of his films with extravagant pieces from L.A. Studio. Premium fashion labels like Loewe, Dolce & Gabbana and Lacoste like to borrow or buy pieces from the design aficionado for their campaign shoots, store interiors or window displays. So it’s no wonder that Carlos has piles of new magazines landing on his doormat every month – a nice little bonus. L.a. STudio C/ ARGANZUELA, 18 28005 MADRID T +34 91 3657566 WWW.LASTUDIO.ES

caSa PoSTaL Is there a collectors’ gene? In the case of father and daughter Carrasco one would suspect that there is. Both enjoy collecting old treasures – with one small difference: he collects postcards; she collects tins. But first things first: around 40 years ago, Martin Carrasco began collecting picture postcards. At first he restricted the collection to the province of Asturias, especially searching for older specimens. But he soon became so enthusiastic about the topic that he expanded his hobby to the whole of Spain. And then not only postcards, but posters and toys and all kinds of little knick-knacks were added to his collection from the 19th and 20th centuries. In 1982 he opened Casa Postal, and over time Carrasco has become a real expert: he has written books about his hobby and travelled across the country for new material. At home in Madrid his daughter Belen took care of shop – and expanded her father’s collection with the addition of tins from the early 20th century. To this day the Casa Postal is a superlative cabinet of wonders, which reveals more about Spanish history and its national character than many a museum. You could spend days and weeks rummaging through the filing boxes that are stacked all the way to the ceiling of the tiny shop. There seems to be no end to the items on offer here, but Belen seems to have no worries about losing track. A true collector isn’t intimidated by a little chaos – that too is probably in the genes. caSa PoSTaL C/ LIBERTAD, 37 28004 MADRID T +34 91 5327037 WWW.CASAPOSTAL.NET

iSoLée Nowadays every town worth its salt has a concept store along the lines of Colette – and Madrid is no exception to the rule. Here the holistic shopping project is called Isolée and is represented by a whole four branches in the city: the pilot which opened in the night-life district of Chueca in 2005, the multi-story store that was launched three years later in Salamanca and finally the Isolée beauty stores in the shopping centres ‘Moda Shopping’ and ‘Gran Plaza 2’. The latter two have specialised in cosmetics, although body care products play a key role in all four stores: almost 50 of the most exclusive international cosmetic manufacturers are represented at Isolée, including Aesop from Australia, REN from London as well as Malin+Goetz from New York. In the largest shop on Salamanca’s Rua Claudio Coelho they take up the entire ground floor. On the first floor you’ll find fashion from A for Adidas to S for See by Chloé, as well as a large assortment of sneakers. The upper floor houses a delicatessen department that gives the branch a luxury department store feel. The offer ranges from national and international specialities to a range of exclusive waters – again reminiscent of Colette. And all of this is flanked by books, kitchen utensils and stationery as well as a small café where you can rest your weary legs after all the hours of browsing, rummaging and trying on clothes. iSoLée concePT SToreS C/ CLAUDIO COELLO, 55 28001 MADRID T +34 90 2876136 C/ INFANTAS, 19 28004 MADRID T +34 91 5228138 iSoLée beauTy SToreS @ MODA SHOPPING AVENIDA DEL GENERAL PERÓN, 40 28020 MADRID @ GRAN PLAZA 2 C/ DE LOS QUÍMICOS, 2 28222 MADRID WWW.ISOLEE.COM

HeLga de aLvear With Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, the Museo Reina Sofía and the CaixaForum, Madrid has four constant stars on the cultural horizon in whose force field a whole galaxy of galleries have evolved. The one shining the brightest at the moment is owned by an art expert, collector and patron with German roots: Helga de Alvear. Previously having worked for the legendary Juana Mordó, a pioneer of the Spanish avant-garde, she continued to run the gallery after Mordó’s death until moving to her present location in 1995, where she became self-employed under her own name. From then on Helga de Alvear dedicated herself to the promotion of young artists, specialising in video, installation and photo work as well as minimal art. With 700 m² at her disposal the space on Calle Doctor Fourquet offers plenty of light and space for her exhibitions. Two large rooms on the ground floor show work by German artists like Axel Hütte, Imi Knoebel and Katharina Grosse and, last but not least, their Spanish colleagues Alicia Framis, Prudencio Irazabal and Santiago Sierra. The upper floor is reserved for curated projects or work specifically suited to the characteristics of the space. In addition to the gallery, the grandmother of six has built up a collection of more than 2000 artworks, which is considered one of the most significant in Spain. You can admire them in Cáceres in the west of Spain, at the ‘Centro Helga de Alvear’. HeLga de aLvear C/ DOCTOR FOURQUET, 12 28012 MADRID T +34 91 4680506 WWW.HELGADEALVEAR.COM

manTequeria bravo As is often the case in tradition-steeped Spain, the success story of the flourishing Mantequeria Bravo is also a story of a family who has shared the same dream for many generations. Juan Bravo founded the grocery store in 1931. Nowadays the third and, in part fourth, generation of the clan is taking over the reins. Literally translated Mantequeria means something like “dairy” but that was a long time ago. Nowadays, the emphasis is more on high alcohol content: 3000 different types of wine from all over the world can be had here, as well as 170 gins and around 100 whiskeys – not to mention the vodkas, grappas, cognacs and fruit brandies. And as if that weren’t enough: coffee beans from Columbia, Puerto Rico and Jamaica as well as teas from England, India and China can be tried here and bought. And naturally cheese and ham play an important role in any Spanish deli, just as much as olive oil and tinned fish. The fact that amidst this excess the Bravo family have still managed to squeeze in some Wasa crisp breads and Lindt chocolates shows that they are more than capable of looking beyond their own doorstep. So it’s no wonder that several fashion labels come to the gourmet experts here to get food supplies for their events during Madrid Fashion Week. manTequeria bravo C/ AYALA, 24 28001 MADRID T +34 91 576 76 41

Junk cLub In order to find the best-kept gastro secret in town, you have to be willing to overcome two hurdles: a) you have to find the location and b) you need the entry code. The Junk Club, shrouded in secrecy, is tucked away in the basement vaults of another restaurant – no sign gives it away. Only those in the know will walk through the dining room of ‘La Musa Latina’ and keep going down the cellar stairs to a door. There you have to ring on the doorbell, a hatch opens and a half-sentence is mumbled into the dark. Complete the sentence correctly and you are allowed within the hallowed rooms – a plot like something out of a special agent movie. But the Junk Club is no elitist bar. “Everyone is suitable for our club,” says the owner, “but our club isn't suitable for everyone!” The reason for this is revealed by a glance at the menu: the Junk Club only offers children’s menus, dishes that today’s 30-somethings were fed by their mothers and grandmothers. Like chocolate con churros, and Boquerones, small crunchy fish, are also on the menu: but here they are fried in ginger. At least the mussels are cooked in Bloody Mary here – kids’ cuisine with a twist but without any compromises. The interior is equally childish. Homemade robots watch over you from dimly lit display cabinets, making sure you eat your dinner up. A wall in the vault is decorated in paperback covers. Subbuteo figurines serve as coat hooks. The kids’ dream is rounded off with an endlessly long summer holiday: the Junk Club closes between the end of April and the beginning of October! Junk cLub COSTANILLA DE SAN ANDRÉS, 12 28005 MADRID T +34 671 541822 WWW.GRUPOLAMUSA.COM

Greetings from Jonathan Winstone, London, UK

HAVE YOU SEEN B?

W W W. B R I G H T T R A D E S H O W. C O M 4 - 6 J U LY 2 0 1 2 , B E R L I N

Behind the SceneS

Sadly, a conversation on Africa and its influence on global fashion culture Fashion and Africa will have people floundering. It´s not all Black and White

Short Cuts

Brand Features Fair Trade Premium, GDS International Shows

Brand Features Celebrity Interviews Diane Pernet Andrea Rosso

Brand Features Heritage J´N´C meets Drykorn at the round table Interview with Marco Lanowy, Alberto

Fashion is King!

»I saw films by directors like Roman Polanski, was addicted to movie magazines …«

Jetsetting and down-to-earth, sexy and obsessed with materials, sporty but trailored – terms that you wouldn’t exactly expect to go together …

The styles of the regular summer 2013 range Brand Feature Handmade are clean and clever at the same time. Victorinox

Some Designers stick to the rules, while others like to experiment.

Labels To Watch Michael Kampe, Kiesel, Jonathan Simkhai, Mattijs van Bergen

It’s usually less likely that you’ll achieve fame and glory Brand Feature Heal The World if you work behind the scenes in an industry. Isko

fashion and AFRICA

it’S not all Black & White TExT Fredericke Winkler ILLUSTRATION Frauke Berg

It would never occur to anyone to ask if Africa has influenced our taste in music on a global scale. There is hardly a musical genre that doesn’t have any African influences whatsoever. Rock ’n’ roll, blues, jazz, reggae, dub, hip-hop, the entire world of pop – what would we be left with if we set aside all the black elements in our musical culture? Sadly, a conversation on Africa and its influence on global fashion culture will have people floundering. Grasping at straws wondering whether Naomi Campbell might count as African (answer: no!) or whether second-hand clothes can be classed as fashion. While we bow deep in awe of Africa’s music, when it comes to fashion, nothing really springs to mind in connection with the African continent. But once you’ve opened yourself up to the idea, you will notice that there are quiet but promising beats coming from the drums of African fashion. And if you listen intently you’ll hear that they may have what it takes to give many current fashion melodies a whole new rhythm. Actually it’s quite shocking how little we connect the idea of fashion to that of Africa. Despite Yves Saint Laurent growing up in Algeria, and the likes of Alber Elbaz who comes from Morocco. Or top models like Alek Wek and Waris Dirie who come from Sub-Saharan Africa. After all, Africa is not just the cradle of civilisation, it is also the birthplace of most of our clothing, as well as being its last resting place: along with the USA and Central Asia, Africa is one of the top three suppliers of cotton – as well as receiving 400,000 tons of discarded clothing every year, primarily from the donation boxes on our street corners. Our lack of interest may stem from the fact that the continent, which at the same time is rich in raw materials as well as the poorest continent in the world, is known in the textile supply chain for its “textiles”, but not for its “fashion”. And it’s an unsexy topic at the best of times: giving us nothing but a guilty conscience when faced with the exploitation of Africa for the benefit of our western luxury. The fact is that African countries are never in a position to make a profit from their involvement with the garment industry, whilst at the same time being wholly dependent on it. THe STRuGGLe FoR THe WHITe GoLd More than 20 million people eke out their living from cotton farming in Africa, for example in Burkina Faso, Benin and Tanzania. Their raw materials combine to make up 5 percent of the entire global cotton production. But the African cotton industry is on a very small scale: each farmer has small areas of land and is responsible for the sale of their own harvest. As they are left to their own devices and unorganised, it is increasingly difficult to remain competitive when up against countries like India and China – which profit from the cluster effect of banding together. On top of that, international cotton prices are kept artificially low through state subsidy of the domestic cotton industries in countries like the USA. Many development aid organisations and human rights initiatives have been campaigning against this for years and are pursuing economic parity. One of the oldest initiatives of this kind is ‘Fair Trade’. The trade partnership with the fair trade seal is committed to promoting and improving the position of individual farmers, especially with the guarantee of higher minimum wages. In return, fair trade formulates social

economic and ecological standards that the farmers have to adhere to. This is a commendable concept but it has one minor flaw: finding buyers for the comparably expensive raw materials is sometimes more difficult. In 2005 the ‘Cotton Made in Africa’ (CMIA) initiative was founded by brands including the Otto Group and Tom Tailor. Their focus is on strengthening the competitiveness of African cotton. CMIA guarantees to buy the farmers’ produce if, in return, they take part in educational programmes. Methods and technologies for optimising harvests are taught as part of these schemes, whilst encouraging ecological farming methods. Advocates of this method see it as a pragmatic way of fighting poverty. Critics see in it merely a colonial-style method of securing access to large portions of raw materials and point to lack of transparency in the initiative’s structures. Either way, the project’s success again depends on the willingness to buy. The world cotton price, artificially low, remains at the core of international trade agreements. Significantly – and this is where there is potential for change – the structural weakness of Africa could be an advantage: when it comes to the quality of its raw materials. Because most of the farmers cannot afford machines and accordingly still pick by hand, the cotton is less damaged during harvest than in structurally stable regions. The type of farming also differs: monocultures are less common, and the use of pesticides is limited. Genetically modified seeds are not really standard yet, unlike in the USA. Organisations and companies committed to the use of ecological textiles in particular are recognising the chance inherent here and are supporting projects that encourage organic cotton farming in Africa, including the Swiss Helvetas association and the textile manufacturer Remei, also from Switzerland. With its ‘BioRe’ foundation Remei also supports biodynamic farming in Tanzania. The smallholding famers not only get a bonus on the conventional market price, but also a sales guarantee. BLINd HeLp? It may be good for the farmers, but seen from a global perspective it is only a drop in the ocean. Because as long as Africa sells its raw materials on the world market in unprocessed form it will be dependent on the conditions laid down by the buyer. The likelihood of an equal partnership is close to nil until the continent can provide a functioning textile industry in its own right, a garment that has gone through the entire production process from start to finish including sale. And that isn’t as farfetched as it sounds. On the contrary: after all, countries like Senegal and South Africa have heads up on the majority of the European countries because they have their own raw materials. The fact that Africa can look back on a long textile tradition shouldn’t be forgotten – just as much as the fact that this tradition was interrupted by colonialisation. According to the “Kleider machen Beute” study, a publication by the agency ‘Südwind’ which propagates solidarity in trade policies, the main aim of the colonial powers was “an economic exploitation of the territory”. “To this end a functioning infrastructure was imposed,” asserts the author Hütz-Adams. “State-run factories were opened, trade monopolies agreed upon and mining and production rights handed out to private companies. Any domestic competition, if it existed, was banned or forced into bankruptcy, the local inhabitants recruited as cheap labour and only used as unskilled labour.” In the postcolonial 49

fashion and AFRICA

1970s, primarily in East Africa, there were attempts to revive the textile tradition, by subsidising textile trade as well as importing machines and expertise. “The textile industry served as an ideal development project: textiles are in high demand in every society. Especially in African countries development politicians are predicting rising wages along with an even higher proportional growth in the demand for textiles – the result of which will be a rapidly expanding domestic market.” In the 1980s these state measures ended badly. “The structural assimilation programmes, which the World Bank and the IMF demanded as a prerequisite for debt relief, has forced most of the African states to discontinue subsidies for the textile and garment industry. In countries like Ghana, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and Cameroon, costly textile factories now have to buy domestic cotton at the world market price and pay for spare mechanical parts and new machinery in foreign currency,” explains Francisco Mari, trade expert at the Church Development Service (EED) in an article for the Christian online magazine ‘Welt-Sichten’. The beginning of a vicious circle: once the subsidies were stopped, textiles made in Africa became too expensive for large portions of the African population to afford. Textile production fell into crisis. More and more textile factories had to close and suddenly the western choice of cheap second-hand clothing seemed very attractive. The result: a second large wave of closures. So in the 1990s, instead of having an independent industry, the result was two partial branches of the industry: the cotton farming industry for export and the trade in second-hand clothing. That led in part to a temporary stabilisation of the economic situation but had far-reaching consequences for the overall economic climate in the textile industry. FASHIoN doCumeNTS HISToRy But this is not the end of the African drama by a long chalk. Along with the economic dilemma comes a cultural one: by intervening in the clothing habits and customs – first through colonialisation, then through the forced trading in so-called donated clothing – the social identity of the wearer also changed. The term ‘fashion victim’ acquires a whole new meaning in Africa: whilst in the West one lamented the fashion dictates and flirted with one’s supposed victim role, the fashion destiny of the African continent was certainly sealed. The population had to swallow the textiles it was served on the plate. The reaction of the people? As elsewhere, the situation is taken as a convention and turned into a part of one’s vestimentary identity. The Boubou, similar to the Kaftan, was quite happily combined with the strict style of the European elite in the 19th and 20th centuries during the colonial period, to create new colourful styles. The random nature of second-hand fashion has allowed the traditional costumes of Africa to be turned into a kind of eclectic uniform, with plenty of room for creativity. For example the Congolese ‘Sapeurs’ have taken on the dandy look of their former French colonial masters and combined it with the bright gaudy colours of their traditional folklore. The result: narrow trousers and close-fitting jackets, rounded off with eccentric glasses, pipes and handkerchiefs. Whether patterned or in clashing colours, as long as the suit fits perfectly, anything goes. There is even a community called ‘Le Sape – Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes’. In 2009 Paul Smith took up this elaborate style and made a collection out of it. The originators live mainly in the poorer areas of the Congo, and sometimes they have to risk their very existence for style. Their attitude is reminiscent of the proletarian Teddy Boys in England in the fifties, who would have rather gone without food than forgo the tailored handmade suits – however, this movement wasn’t quite as colourful as that of the Sapeurs. In Africa the trio of tradition, colonial style and western second-hand clothing forms the basis of a whole new shiny African fashion movement. Just as teenagers will take the fashion conventions of their own parents and recode them within their own subcultures, the African fashion crowd is hacking the codes of their former oppressors and turning them into something new. That’s what’s happening with ‘Wax’ too, a brightly coloured cult material that the rest of the world sees as a typical African textile and which has formed the basis of many ethnic gimmicks in the world of fashion. 50

But the cloth was actually developed by a Dutch company. Originally destined for the former Indonesian colonies of the Netherlands, it found its way to Africa pretty much by accident. The producer, Vlisco, recognised the chance, embedded typical cultural symbols in the designs and followed the trends on the continent with an eagle eye. “When a local textile industry developed in Africa in the 50s and 60s, it didn’t take long before the entire continent was flooded with cheaper local Wax imitations,” says the Hamburg-based charity organisation CulturCooperation e.V. “Whereas the distribution of these textiles was originally a project of colonisation, the materials and the clothing style became an important tool of self-assertion in the de-colonisation phase of the 60s.” Today in 2012 this principle still holds true. Only the premise has changed: nowadays in almost all African countries there is a brisk trade in used clothing – and with it a sociologically highly interesting range of fashion settings and vestimentary codes. That’s because the second-hand clothes certainly no longer carry their original DNA in their African second coming. They are given a new meaning – in part much more creatively than anything one would ever see on our Western street-style blogs. What is known in Germany as ‘Humana’ (a chain of 15 second-hand stores throughout the country) is called ‘Mitumba’ in Africa. With the decisive difference that no one there gets to be an outcast because they’re wearing second-hand clothing.

The age of a new africa On the contrary: Mitumba is slowly but surely making it’s way onto the international catwalks. Especially in politically stable countries in Africa, a highly exciting fashion scene, far removed from any mustysmelling third-world shops, is currently developing. The most interesting newcomer can be found at Arise Fashion Week, set up by the editor of Arise magazine and author of the book, “New African Fashion”, Helen Jennings, and takes place once a year in Lagos. As part of its events and publications Jennings is showing a whole new face of Africa, whose prominence she has contributed to. At the Fashion Week she brings together brands like Christie Brown from Ghana, Tiffany Amber from Nigeria and Laurence Airline from the Ivory Coast, which can easily hold their own against the innovations of Western fashion capitals in terms of freshness and complexity, but – and that’s probably the secret of their beauty – don’t particularly want to. The designers represented at Arise resist the temptation of pandering to the unwritten Western “laws” of fashion. Safari clichés and folkloric kitsch? Not here. Headstrong and self-assured, they stick to their own ideal of beauty. Particularly impressive is the incredible feel for colour. Traditional materials are at the focus but are also often deconstructed. In short: African fashion isn’t hiding from anyone. It has a strong and positive attitude. No wonder that many Arise designers have been showing their designs in Paris and New York to great acclaim. More concentrated on the domestic market is Swahili Fashion Week in Tanzania. This is the turf, in part, of the established fashion squad, as well as remarkable newcomers, including names like Made by Africa. Unlike Helen Jennings who also supports designers who have left their African homeland, the founder of Swahili Fashion Week, Mustafa Hassanali, places the emphasis on strengthening Africa as a location. He is part of a growing community who want to introduce ‘Made in Africa’ as a seal of quality. And it’s definitely high time: after repeatedly being sabotaged by the West over decades, the African textile industry may now finally have

the chance to get on its feet – at least in those areas that are politically stable. And no one would lose out: the farmers could sell their cotton locally. A demand for local weaving mills and spinning mills and factories would arise. New workplaces would be created; locally finished products would be competitive in price. They could even be sold domestically. And at least the raw materials would not all flow into export but, instead, into a finished piece of clothing. In that way Africa could utilise the larger part of the supply chain for itself and increase its attractiveness as a fashion location. A utopian idea? Well, one can certainly already buy new African fashion in Europe, thanks to Franca Sozzani. Together with the online store ‘Yoox’ the editor of Italian Vogue has established an online shop called ‘Discovered in Africa’. Sozzani is well known for her belief in Africa as a fashion location and has put her energy into bringing more diversity into the fashion world. And her readers seem to approve. The annual ‘Black Issue’ featuring only black models regularly exceeds all sales stats for the Vogue. The 1970s belonged to the Italians, the 1980s was the decade of the Japanese, the 90s were US-influenced, and in the second decade of the second millennium, it’s certainly looking like Africa could show the fashion world that it really has what it takes. 51

SHOR TS

Fred Perry Vans x Barbour

Track Kicks

Workshop Wear

Clarks Originals

Vinyl-a-Go-Go

Skateboarding and casualism don’t mix? Not according to Vans. In cooperation with the traditional British outdoor experts from Barbour, this autumn the resourceful Californian skate shoe manufacturer is presenting a three-part capsule edition as part of the California Collection, which is giving the laid-back designs of the ‘Chukka Del Barco’, the ‘Era Wingtip’ and the classic ‘Slip On’ a slick look with waxed linen upper, fine leather details and tartan inner sole. The drop date of the strictly limited range is the beginning of October. But at the time of going to press it still hadn’t been confirmed whether the legendary Barbour alteration and repair service will also step in to fix skate-related wear and tear!

Fred Perry really was a man of many talents. As a proud working-class kid he made the snobby British upper-class tennis elite feel uncomfortable and against all odds he managed to win Wimbledon three times. But that’s not all: as a producer of polo shirts Perry laid the foundation stone for a cult brand, the charisma of which is still going strong 60 years after it was established. This autumn the label is delving deep into its own history with an authentic workwear collection and presenting a range of Oxford shirts, trousers, jumpers, Jersey piques, jackets and Merino knits, which, inspired by the workwear of the 1930s and 1940s, is elegantly combining robust fabrics, the tradition of sustainable craftsmanship and fine detailing. Who would have thought that the fruits of labour could look so smart?

www.vans.com

www.fredperry.com

www.clarksoriginals.com

Langbrett x Brütting

Knowledge Cotton

In the last 14 years Éveil, which was founded in Cologne in 1998, has gone from being a skateboarding D.I.Y. shirt print maker to a fully fledged experimental lab for clothing, art and graphic design. And in the pipeline for this coming spring is, for the first time, a collection following the regular seasonal pattern. Marketed by the Bochum street connoisseurs Säck & Nolde (who also represent Stüssy, Undefeated and Incase), Éveil are taking us on a journey from the city to the countryside and back again with a limited series of extremely innovatively designed, lovingly hand-printed sweaters, shirts, hoodies, caps and cotton bags. Headstrong, full of character and this issue’s top tip!

There’s also news to report from Langbrett. The Berlin syndicate for skateboarding, surfing, design, photography and the other finer things in life already put a smile on the faces of the longboards community in 2009 with their lightweight long distance skate sneaker and now, after a one-year test phase, footwear project no. 2 is in the starting blocks. The ‘Hartmannshain’ model is the result of a collaboration with the sport shoe traditionalist Brütting. Named after Germany’s most well-known downhill skate course and based on a classic powerwalking model from the 70s, the light lo-top with flat marathon running sole and the completely reinforced upper not only come with a high degree of functionality, but are also pretty impressive where looks are concerned. The first edition comes in a run of 400 pairs and is available from October at the Langbrett stores in Berlin and Düsseldorf.

Knowledge Cotton, with its old-school sports and streetwear look made from 100 percent organic cotton and reused-materials, has long since become a real authority when it comes to quality, sustainability and stylish finesse. Since starting out as a textile experiment with no particular plan in 1969 in Herning, a small town in the Danish region of Jutland, they have become real trailblazers. For the spring/summer 2013 season they are pulling out all the stops once again and presenting an extremely smart range of tees, long-sleeves, sweaters, hoodies, knits, jackets, shorts, pants and denims, which, with their clean, surf-inspired look and different blue and pastel tones, draws its inspiration from the sea, both in terms of design and colours. Also brand new: the accessories range designed in cooperation with the traditional Swedish leather manufacturer Tärnsjö. Thumbs up!!

www.eveil.de

www.langbrett.com

www.knowledgecottonapparel.com

Long Boards – Fast Shoes Éveil

The Urban-Rural Connection

Even if the scare stories on the imminent demise of the record have been going strong since the introduction of the CD more than 25 years before – the patient is doing just great, thanks to the demand! For Clarks Originals this is reason enough to lovingly create a lasting monument to the black gold in the form of a shoe. The capsule collection, developed in cooperation with the London Jaguar Shoes collective, comes with a series of Desert Boots, the upper design of which is a nod to the history of the record, sometimes wild and psychedelic, sometimes bold and colourful or even sleek, clean and elegant. Strictly limited of course, the smart style will be available this coming spring from selected footwear dealers.

Lead Through Knowledge

THE ROCK BREAD & BUTTER AIRPORT BERLIN-TEMPELHOF

www.breadandbutter.com

photo by ingo robin

04 – 06 July 2012

SHOR TS

Replay

Back to the Fifties Diesel

Preppy vs. rock’n’roll vs. military vs. celebrity hype – there’s no doubt about it, next spring the Italian fashionistas from Diesel will once again find themselves on a hard collision course with the superficiality of the fashionable mainstream. The men are in for heavy leather jackets and robust denims, some with laser, coating and overdyed finishes meeting elegant jackets, richly detailed tweed jackets, Chambray shirts, chinos, hoodies and all-over print tees. And the ladies are looking just as stylishly tough thanks to the surprising fusions of rough, masculine army pants, overdyed denims, parkas, shirts, leather waistcoats and biker jackets combined with delicate tops, skirts and dresses. Between deep black and gloomy-looking grey tones, light splashes of colour create a look that is hard to pin down yet extremely subtle. Two thumbs up.

If you believe Replay, New York’s Meatpacking District of the 50s is just a stone’s throw away from modern Brooklyn-style hipsterism. And the styles of the upcoming spring/summer 2013 collection are proving that we can trust what the Italian fashionistas have to say. While for the ladies it’s all romantic 50s dresses, understated denim shorts, high-waisted palazzo jeans, lightweight tees, sporty tank-top maxi dresses, robust field jackets and oversized overalls, enhanced with retro prints, rhinestone elements, studs, washed-out tie-dye and floral micro prints, the focus for the men is on a combination of classic chinos, smart blazers, sport jackets and blousons, extremely slim-fit hipster pants, printed tees, an extensive jeans range and elegant jackets, shirts and shorts with a touch of tailor-made couture. The colour palette ranges from muted black, olive, beige and blue down to red, yellow and green as well as soft pastel tones.

www.diesel.com

www.replay.it

Rough Riders

DL1961 x Bagsnob

Blog-O-Fashion Founded in 2008 in the quest to find the perfect jeans, the resourceful New York premium denimistas from DL1961 have also incorporated several multi-faceted chino styles into their collection in addition to their indigo designs. And they’ve also been pushing ahead with the good old collaboration business. The latest coup here is the ‘Snob Essential’ capsule collection, which was developed in cooperation with the most influential Californian fashion blog Bagsnob and combines high-quality jeans design with luxurious details and finishes like gold stitching, glamorous leather elements, waxed surfaces and striking zippers. The ladies’ only range will be available from autumn at selected hi-end denim dealers. www.dl1961.com

Nike Keds x Mark McNairy

Timeless Aesthetics

Dream Team Revisited!

Tom & Hawk

Mark McNairy has done it again!! After breathing new life into the slightly dusty Ivy League brand J.Press over the past few years, the dynamic American sportswear designer with a special penchant for anything retro has also completely redefined the all-American classics with his own label New Amsterdam. Following the revision of the ‘Booster’, part 2 of the collaboration with Keds is in the pipeline. And their weapon of choice this time is the ‘Triumph’, a classic, clean and extremely light lo-top sneaker, which enjoyed great success in the 20s and 30s, but was thought to have disappeared in the early 40s. The extremely sensitive rework comes with an outer sole with brick embossing, high rubber cap and sometimes plain, sometimes loud colourways and will be available from this coming autumn in either canvas or suede.

In 1992, 15 young American basketball pros wrote court history at the Olympic Games in Barcelona when they ended every match leading by an average of 44 points, giving all the other teams a thorough thrashing. An achievement that is still unrivalled today and one which has made the ‘Dream Team’ legendary. This autumn, 20 years after the gold medal was won, Nike is presenting a homage drop, which, as well as an AW77 hoodie, a round-neck sweater, different tees and caps and the re-runs of the Nike Air More Uptempo, Nike Shox BB4, Nike Air Force 180, Nike Air Zoom Huarache 2K4 and Nike Air Force 1 Hi, also includes a new destroyer jacket. The sought-after item not only comes with a chic woollen body and leather sleeves, but also tells the dream team success story on various different patches. A must-have!

Knitwear as a way of life? For the sisters Annette and Susanne Wirz this question was never an issue. After all, they have not only been working in the field for many years now, but also have a penchant for smart vintage knitwear in their private lives. So it only made sense for them to combine their professions with their vocations. In 2011 they set up their own label Tom & Hawk to really shake up the present and future of the subject, whilst drawing on the past. For the second collection, which will be hitting shelves next spring, the duo has once again taken on the subject of ethno graphics and is presenting a lot of colourful jacquard and circular knit in the sweaters, jumpers, jackets and tees. New to the collection are shirts and knitted trousers in long or short variations. Strictly made in Italy – this one’s for you!!

www.keds.com

www.nike.com

www.tomandhawk.com

Knitting Sisters

SHOR TS

Mavi

Denim Mania

In their constant pursuit for cultured role models, the design team of the Turkish jeans fashion label LTB embarked on a journey to southern Italy. For the upcoming spring/summer 2013 season they headed to Capri and Rimini, where they followed the trail of the legendary la dolce vita and in Sicily they paid a visit to the traditional craft workshops. And the result is impressive: denims, shirts, tees, dresses, jackets, knits and skirts come together to create the sophisticated luxurious beach and party look of the 60s with subtle, almost-D.I.Y. handcrafted elements and sometimes muted, sometimes gleaming colours of the Riviera and the Adriatic coastlines. Summer starts here.

When smart 60s Riviera meets extrovert 70s bohemia at Mavi this spring/summer 2013 season, the name of the game is denim mania – and by denim we don’t just mean jeans. As well as skinny jeans with cropped ankle-lengths, flared styles with hi-rise waistline and regular fits with flares, for the ladies it is mainly shirts, tops, plissé skirts, dresses, crocheted tops, jumpsuits and jackets, some with large-format prints, embroidery or stripes including bright pink, red and green contrasts that conjure up an extremely relaxed Mediterranean look, while for the boys, both robust chinos, canvas shorts and dark jeans as well as light, sun-bleached models are combined with pastel-coloured polo shirts, earth-coloured cargo vests and jackets with outdoor elements. Important here are contrast stitching, Western details and architectonic-inspired designs.

www.ltbjeans.com

www.mavi.com

LTB

The Italian Job

Mustang

Blue is the Colour The 80th birthday celebrations are barely over but Mustang is keeping the fire burning with the launch of a real denim feast for the spring/summer 2013 collection. For the ladies there is a focus on ultra-light fabrics enriched with viscose and linen and environmentally-friendly treatments. With denims boasting a multi-coloured weft, shimmering satin weaves, super-power stretch, a smart range of hippie blouses and retro flowers plus a reinterpretation of the classic Iron Horse shirts they are heading back to the mid-70s. Although this look is a lot more reduced in terms of colour, it is also extremely retro: the men’s line with pure indigo jeans up to a weight of 14.5 oz., subtle washes and brushed shiny cotton that is extra soft to the touch. Ride on! www.mustang-jeans.com

Codice Antony Morato

Viva Exotica

The Knitmaster’s General

Are you a superhero fan with fashionable farsightedness on the lookout for new stylistic challenges? Then you might just like the new seven-piece scarf collection that Munich accessories label Codello has launched in cooperation with the legendary American comic publisher Marvel. Far removed from the repetitive, trashy design monotony, the high-quality wool, cotton and modal styles adorned with Spiderman, Thor, Captain America, Wolverine, Hulk, the Fantastic Four and the Silver Surfer not only stand out with their subtle used look, but also make fantastic collector’s items. The ‘Marvel for Codello’ range is available now from selected retailers.

The Italians from Antony Morato are still going their own way. In the past five and a half years the three siblings Raffaele, Giovanni and Tania Caldarelli have been able to turn the subject of menswear on its head once again with street fashion-inspired collections from the company founded in Naples. And on the cards for the spring/ summer 2013 season is now the fusion of extrovert Bollywood exotica with clean, urban styles. Playing an important role here are jackets, baggy pants, jeans, shirts and tees made from ultra-rough linen, cotton and denim, which, whether in muted colours or summery and colourful, whether extra wide or slim-fit, enhanced with Far East graphics and 80s-style superhero prints. In combination with the footwear range and an accessories collection including bags, belts and silk scarves, this is an extremely wellrounded collection.

Founded in 2007 in Reggio Emilia, Codice very much follows the tradition of the great Italian knitwear manufacturers with its knitwear collections. A fact that is not only down to the sophisticated design and their passion for perfection, but, above all, also to the high quality standards of the brains behind the label. And so, in favour of sustainable collaboration with some of the country’s oldest and most innovative knit manufacturers, they consistently say no to Asian imports and even the polo shirt line is made exclusively in Europe, by producers in Portugal and Turkey. It has long since been more than just an insider tip in the USA and Canada, and now the label is really upping the ante with the spring/summer 2013 styles after a brilliant Central Europe kick-off last autumn. As well as ultra-light cotton and cashmere sweaters, rich in detail and in a colour spectrum ranging from vibrant to subtle there is also a range of luxurious polo shirts and tees.

www.codello.de

www.morato.it

www.c-o-d-i-c-e.com

Codello x Marvel

Superhero Superscarf

Scanne weitere Informationen zum COTTON USALizenzprogramm!

Embrace Nature. Choose Cotton.

cottonusa.de

Photographer: Beate Hansen. ÂŠ 2010. Model: Charlbi. Blouse by Karma Highway and Denim Skirt by Silver Jeans.

FAIR TRADE PReMiuM exHiBiTioNs, BeRLiN

Fashion Central TexT Andreas Grüter

FAIR TRADE GDs, DüsseLDoRf

shoe sports TexT Andreas Grüter

Fashion is king! This applies to the upcoming Berlin Fashion Week in general and to the 20th edition of Premium Exhibitions in particular. After all, Anita Tillmann, her namesake Norbert Tillmann and their team are not only fine tuning the concept of their tradeshow, but, with a mix of international high-end fashion and selected newcomer brands, they are also presenting a valid fusion of zeitgeist and innovative future research. So we thought we ought to do our research prior to the event to keep you in the know. More fashion, more events, more visitors, more exhibitors – a lot will stay the same, but there’ll also be a lot of new changes when the Premium trade fair sets up camp on the 23,000 square metre exhibition area of station-Berlin in Kreuzberg between 4 and 6 July. in keeping with their tried-and-tested ‘what you see is what you get’ trade fair philosophy this time they will be presenting around 1400 exclusive collections by 800 labels from the ladies, men, footwear, accessories, bags and jewellery segments in a total of six halls, as well as in the adjoining showrooms and ateliers. Alongside big names like Barbour, Armani Jeans, Lacoste, Adidas sLVR and American Vintage there will also be a whole host of new and highly promising, stylish brands such as Mii Collection, Atelier Wild and Ylati. for the first time they are also working with a group of Korean designers, who will be showing their experimental designs in the avant-garde area of Hall 7, while the young generation of Turkish designers will be supported as part of the ‘istanbul Next’ programme. speaking of promoting young talents: it goes without saying that the Premium Young Designers Award will be presented once again this season. The official awards ceremony is taking place on 3 July at 5pm at f95 The fashion store at station-Berlin, where, under the motto ‘Premium for the Public’, there will be a variety of events and podium discussions in cooperation with brands, publishing houses and ecommerce-partners, which are also open to end consumers, taking place on all three days of the fair. We can’t wait!

Footwear united! Everything will once again be revolving around footwear fashions at the meanwhile 114th edition of Düsseldorf GDS trade fair between the 5th and 7th September. So what new developments can we expect? We managed to sneak a peek behind the scenes to find out more. Casual meets streetwear, slip-ons meet sneakers. No doubt about it, even 56 years after it was founded the GDs is still just as good at constant reflection and innovative reinvention every six months. so it’s hardly surprising that a tightly packed schedule once again awaits trade visitors and decision-makers when the doors of the Düsseldorf trade fair halls open on 5th september under the motto ‘inspiration to go’. As well as shoes, bags and accessory designs by over 800 exhibitors from more than 30 countries – here the spectrum ranges from experimental newcomers down to long-standing traditional brands – there is an extensive supporting programme of events covering all three days of the trade fair. several times a day fashion shows in the ‘Trends on stage’ will be showcasing new design developments, the relevance of which will be discussed in detail at speaker’s Corner in Hall 7.0 during panel talks, trend lectures and seminars on trade-relevant subjects with renowned speakers. And speaking of trend research and knowledge transfer: as well as the regular information about how to get to the event, exhibitor database and ticket shop services, since its extensive relaunch the GDs website now also has a popular news platform. The in-house online editorial team is constantly researching contents on the latest topics, which are shown in the form of photo editorials or videos, or as text features. You can also download the online edition of the GDs Magazine here, which not only reports on selected brands and collections, prior to the fair, but also gives visitors to the area the lowdown on the highlights of Düsseldorf’s nightlife. After all, in three days of doing business there has to be some time for letting your hair down.

www.premiumexhibitions.com www.gds-online.com 58

FAIR TRADE iNTeRNATioNAL sHoWs

Fashion trade Fairs in summer 2012 And the carousel just keeps on turning! Despite the economic downturn and consumer reticence, the fashion merry-go-round is still happily spinning, and if you miss out, you only have yourself to blame. so hop on – whether you happen to be in Paris, Copenhagen or Berlin. Who’s next prêt à porter paris After a successful premiere in January the fusion of Who’s Next and Prêt à Porter is optimistically going into the next round. “Despite a negative economic situation we have had lots of registrations and are expecting good international feedback once again,” says trade fair boss Bertrand foâche. The concept of the Paris tradeshow is being finely tuned so visitors will be able to look forward to something new this summer: under the motto ‘fame’ the creative avant-garde labels will be getting their own area at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre. Around 200 labels will be attending. Accessories and shoes are being combined and street and menswear are moving to hall 7. Bring on part 2 of the revolution! Who’s next 30 JuNe – 3 JuLY 2012 27-29, Rue GuéNéGAuD 75006 PARis WWW.WHosNexT.CoM

Bread & Butter / Berlin Berlin and airports … thank the lord we can still count on good old Tempelhof! Bread & Butter will be taking off here from 4 to 6 July 2012 and the focus will be on street and urbanwear. True to the slogan ‘fun & Profit’ the exhibitors, buyers and press will be swapping ideas and opinions on the latest fashion and marketing trends – and, as usual, will also be finding the time to party. This year’s motto ‘The Rock’ symbolises the unshakeable belief in creativity and character in the fashion industry. Crisis? Not at B&B. Additional pavilions are being docked on to expand the urban superior and Treasury areas. And KarlHeinz Müller’s words on the subject: “success attracts success!” Bread & Butter 4 – 6 JuLY 2012 BeRLiN-TeMPeLHof AiRPoRT PLATz DeR LufTBRüCKe 5 12101 BeRLiN WWW.BReADANDBuTTeR.CoM

merCedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin international celebrities like Julianne Moore, Marc Jacobs and Terry Richardson all like to squeeze into the front row at Mercedes Benz fashion Week Berlin. Which isn’t surprising, considering this is where a small but select range of international fashion labels, who place great store by quality, craftsmanship and elegance, show off their skills twice a year. The list of designers includes iris van Herpen, Kaviar Gauche and Augustin Teboul. so what else adds to the appeal of the fashion event? Naturally the elegant atmosphere in 60

combination with Berlin’s ‘poor but sexy’ image. Compared to Paris or New York, things here are a lot more informal, but one thing’s for sure: Berlin is buzzing! merCedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin 4. – 7. JuLY 2012 BRANDeNBuRG GATe sTRAsse Des 17. JuNi 10557 BeRLiN WWW.MeRCeDes-BeNzfAsHioNWeeK.CoM

Capsule / paris, Berlin, neW York, las Vegas Twice a year the fashion and lifestyle trade fair Capsule makes its way from Las Vegas to New York and Paris – and since last year also to Berlin. Their plan is to bring the most exciting and innovative labels together in the interests of generating the most inspiration possible. in on the game are independent streetwear labels that offer premium quality and really hit the zeitgeist nail on the head. And the secret is in the mix: on the one hand well-established labels like sierra Designs that can look back on 40 years of history, and on the other, newcomers like Poler who have only been wowing people with their outdoor ideas on the catwalk for the past year. And this summer there’s a new venue: the former postal station Postbahnhof at the city’s major ostbahnhof train station. Capsule Berlin 5 – 6 JuLY 2012 PosTBAHNHof AM osTBAHNHof sTRAsse DeR PARiseR KoMMuNe 3-10 10243 BeRLiN WWW.CAPsuLesHoW.CoM Capsule paris: CiTé De LA MoDe; MeNsWeAR 29 JuNe – 1 JuLY, WoMeNsWeAR 28 – 30 sePTeMBeR 2012 Capsule neW York: BAsKeTBALL CiTY; MeNsWeAR 23/24 JuLY 2012, WoMeNsWeAR No fixeD DATes As YeT Capsule las Vegas: VeNeTiAN BALLRooM; MeNsWeAR/WoMeNsWeAR 20/21 AuGusT 2012

modeFaBriek / amsterdam Amsterdam isn’t just known for its darn good ‘frietjes’, but also its fine fashion. Modefabriek is presenting more than 600 labels, including G-star, Aigle and van Laack which will be making themselves right at home in the 40,000 m² space. This ultimate Benelux fashion trade fair takes place twice a year and has plenty of extras to entice you: the MiNT section is dedicated to sustainable green fashion and the Trash & Treasures area is all about interactive creativity. in the hope of plenty of sunshine there will be a few Jeansers on the outdoor terrace. it’ll definitely be ‘smakelijk’ here too. And there’s even a pétanque court, so don’t forget to dig out your old boule set ... modeFaBriek 22 – 23 JuLY 2012 GeDeMPT HAMeRKANAAL 29 1021 KL AMsTeRDAM WWW.MoDefABRieK.NL

Cph Vision / Copenhagen CPH Vision has a new venue. in August the Danish platform for scandinavian designers will be moving into the former train station on the outskirts of Copenhagen. since 2009 this has also been the location of the denim and streetwear show Terminal 2. Bringing the two trade fairs together seemed like a logical step and organiser Peter selchau is looking forward to a more relaxed atmosphere and an increased number of visitors. “Then we’ll really have a fashion city in the city!” enthuses the trade fair boss. He has his sights set on a combination of up-and-coming and established designers and will also be presenting international buyers with a selection of art and scandinavian lifestyle, catwalk shows and parties. Cph Vision 9 – 11 AuGusT 2012 LYsAGeRVeJ 10 2920 CHARLoTTeNLuND WWW.CPHVisioN.DK

the BranderY / BarCelona skaters, bloggers, musicians – all of them are cool, trendy and part of the large family we call fashion. That’s how the makers of The Brandery see it, and are inviting everyone to a big party in Barcelona. from 13 to 15 July things will be hotting up in spain’s artistic and fashion metropolis. And amongst all of the fun business deals will be closed too. from Custo Barcelona to Replay and superdry – the biggest street and urbanwear labels will be presenting their new styles, which the buyers from el Corte inglés and the Galeries Lafayette will be flocking to see. And the musical soundtrack headlined by Mala Rodríguez, spain’s top rapper, will be livening things up even more. Plus – listen up Brit electro pop fans – The Human League will be making an appearance too!

gallerY / Copenhagen international labels along with scandinavian specials are on offer at Gallery. Parallel to CPH Vision and Terminal 2, Nordic fashion labels like J. Lindeberg and Noir are presenting their wares alongside global players like Woolrich and emporio Armani. Having launched six years ago, the Gallery now brings together menswear and womenswear, accessories, jewellery and shoes under one roof. every year an additional 1000 visitors come to take a peek at the international trends and place their orders. fans of the Danish royal family are somewhat more sceptical about the growing success as until now the familial atmosphere meant that the fashion-savvy Princess Mary could stop off for a visit without too much of a fuss.

the BranderY 13 – 15 JuLY 2012 MoNTJuïC exHiBiTioN CeNTRe, HALL 8 AVeNiDA De LA ReiNA MARíA CRisTiNA 08004 BARCeLoNA WWW.THeBRANDeRY.CoM

gallerY 9 – 11 AuGusT 2012 foRuM CoPeNHAGeN JuLYus THoMseNs PLADs 1 1925 fReDeRiKsBeRG WWW.GALLeRY.DK

Taschen, Lederaccessoires und mehr. Die I.L.M Offenbach zeigt die Saisonneuheiten Fr端hjahr | Sommer 2013. Im Fokus: Internationale Lifestyle- und Modemarken, Young Cultureund Sportlabels, First-Class Angebote f端r Reise und Business.

22.- 24.9.2012 Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 829755 - 0 Fax + 49 69 829755 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de info@messe-offenbach.de

Hier sind die Trends. Hier ist der Markt.

BRAnD FEATuRE CElEBRITy InTERVIEw DiANe PeRNeT

BraVe neW World TexT Ilona Marx

When names like Bruce Weber, Ellen von Unwerth, Steven Meisel, Mike Figgis, Nick Knight and Tilda Swinton are mentioned in one breath then it must be that time of year again: that’s right, it’s curtains up for ‘A Shaded View On Fashion Film’ festival, or ASVOFF for short. An event that brings together a highly compatible coupling: fashion and film. The festival is the brainchild of Diane Pernet. Hardly anyone deserves more admiration than this grande dame of the international blogger scene. Launching her multi-disciplinary online platform AsVof – A shaded View on fashion – in 2005, the Paris resident has been an important fixture on the fashion film scene since founding AsVoff four years ago. To date, the festival has been taking place once a year, parallel to fashion Week, with a star-studded jury – followed by a tour halfway round the world. And then came the surprise: in 2012 AsVoff premiered in Barcelona, parallel to the Brandery tradeshow. J’N’C editor-in-chief ilona Marx wanted to know more about the past, present and future of fashion film, so took a long hard look into the eyes of Diane Pernet, through her obligatory sunglasses, and discovered that the fashion icon’s passion for the subject goes way beyond her guest appearance in Robert Altman’s ‘Prêt-à-Porter’ film. Madame Pernet, when did you first become interested in film? i’ve been a passionate movie buff ever since my childhood in Washington. My parents are to blame for that, as they were the ones who introduced me to european films at a very early age. i saw films by directors like Roman Polanski, was addicted to movie magazines and spent half the weekends at the cinema thanks to the ‘big saturday afternoon’ tickets. so it’s not really surprising that i went on to study documentary film. Why didn’t you stick to the film industry? Bizarrely, because i had problems with teamwork. Which is ironic considering that today i value nothing better than a smooth-running team. But in those days i saw things differently. And because i was always excited about fashion, after working as a commercial photographer for a while i attended Parsons school of Design in New York and then later the fashion institute of Technology, where i only stayed for nine months. After that i founded my own label – and i was my own boss for the next 13 years. And how did you end up in Paris? in the late eighties i became increasingly keen to leave New York. There was too much misery, too much violence, too many Aids deaths around me. i had a lucky escape but the atmosphere was counter-productive to my work. so, two decades ago i moved to Paris – and i had neither the energy nor the money to rebuild my label. so i worked in film as a costume designer and my first job was for Amos Gitai, where i was responsible for Hanna schygulla’s outfit, which was a dream come true, as i am a great fassbinder fan and love Hanna schygulla.

Diane Pernet

In 2005 you started blogging on ‘A Shaded View On Fashion’. How did the film festival of the same name result from it? i had already had the idea for about ten years when i began curating in 2006, first organising the one-day event ‘You Wear it Well’ in L.A. and then, in 2008, supported by David Herman, the three-day Paris festival ‘A shaded View on fashion film’. The plan came into action when Mark eley got in touch asking me to make a road movie for his label at the time, eley Kishimoto, during the legendary Gumball Rally. Why did it take ten years from the initial idea to the realisation? When i came up with the idea i simply didn’t have enough material. Naturally there were clips from runway shows. And if you look back to the sixties and seventies there are impressive fashion films by artists like William Klein for example. But that was then followed in the eighties by a major era of fashion photography. The genre of fashion film has only just really exploded over the last two years. It’s no longer unusual for fashion labels to use the medium of film to market their collections. Where would you place the boundary between campaign shoot and fashion film? There is no clear boundary. even a campaign video can be a fashion film, as far as i am concerned. But beautiful models, great make-up and styling are not enough. A fashion film is only convincing for me if it tells a story or moves me emotionally. in a good fashion film the clothing isn’t the main character. instead it serves to characterise the protagonists and support the narrative plot.

Scenes from films shown at the ASVOFF.

ASVOF is one of the world’s most influential fashion blogs. At the same time you are deputy editor-in-chief of the Dutch independent mag Zoo Magazine. What is your take on the opinion of your famous online colleague Nick Knight, who predicts that the days of the fashion magazine are over in the era of the internet? i don’t agree. i remember how everyone predicted the demise of radio when television came on the scene – and now we have worldwide web radio. However the focus of fashion magazines will have to change. There’s no way you can compete with the speed of reporting on the internet. so it makes sense to provide more in-depth content and perhaps switch from a monthly to a quarterly output. Contrary to blogs, magazines still have the advantage that you can hold them in your hand. An experimental attitude to paper, the format and the typography should keep things interesting for advertising clients too. Web and print – in my eyes they’re two different worlds that can not only exist perfectly well together but can also enrich one another. Getting back to ASVOFF once again: Alex Murray-Leslie from ‘Chicks on Speed’ was one of the co-directors of the festival in Barcelona. Will you continue working with her? i hope that we can convince Alex to keep working with us; there’s already a concrete concept on the table. Thanks for talking to us.

BRAnD FEATuRE CElEBRITy InTERVIEw ANDReA Rosso 55DsL, MARosTiCA/iTALY

liVe loCal, aCt gloBal TexT Ilona Marx

55DSL? Isn’t that the young line by Diesel? Well yes, but not quite: what originally started out in 1994 as part of denim master Renzo Rosso’s empire, has since been taken over by Andrea Rosso, his son, who has added his own distinctive signature. Nowadays 55DSL represents the lifestyle of a core target group of 16 to 24-year-old girls and boys with a penchant for boardsports and urban art. The label now runs 20 of its own shops worldwide. J’N’C editor-in-chief Ilona Marx caught up with Andrea Rosso in London to have a chat about interaction, filling big shoes and the pros and cons of trade fairs. 55DSL is inextricably linked to snowboarding, surfing and skating. Are there any other inspirations other than boardsports? Music is really important to me, as a person and as a designer. i attach great importance to the lyrics: on the one hand because they mirror the zeitgeist so well and on the other because there are a lot of creative ideas hidden in good songs. i like graphics, architecture, interior design and photography, especially the work of William eggleston. i really admire the way he uses colour. And when i am travelling, which is pretty much all the time because of my work, i like to take a look around flea markets. Not just because i have a bit of a thing for historical objects, but also for old mechanical gadgets for example. for me, a market like that, with young and old sellers and the haggling customers, is the quintessence of interaction. That’s where real life happens. Speaking of which, you still live in the small town of Bassano del Grappa, your Venetian place of birth. Yes, that’s right. Although i spent some time in L.A. after finishing school and went on to study textile development and marketing in New York. Whether L.A. or New York – what excites me about big cities is that different mentalities collide with each other. And i am very receptive to the beauty of small everyday details. That’s what i love about Bassano del Grappa. for example, we live at the foot of the mountains, so the rhythm of nature has a heightened meaning. if only a little snow falls, as was the case last winter, we all get worried. Things like that don’t even register with inhabitants of big cities. And another thing: life in a small town keeps you curious about what’s going on in the rest of the world.

You’ve been Creative Director at 55DSL for over a decade. That’s a long time. But nevertheless the question of the influence from your famous father, Diesel founder Renzo Rosso, is unavoidable. Yes, of course those are big shoes to fi ll. But even though i have to measure up to my surname – the advantages still outweigh the disadvantages. The fact is: 55DsL is pretty autonomous. We work with a team of 35 people. The only overlap with Diesel is when it comes to logistics and production. My father comes to our fashion meetings twice a year, which i really appreciate. After all, he is responsible for countless collections so he has a good eye for trends. We’ll see how the cooperation works out after the move of 55DsL into the new Diesel headquarters, which will be happening soon. Do you have any other plans for the near future, for example when it comes to presentation? in the past, 55DsL has exhibited at the Bread & Butter, but we won’t be there this summer. Don’t get me wrong, i am a big fan of the event, the organisers are really skilled in creating a fantastic environment for creative synergies. However, i believe that the future is moving away from the traditional trade fair concepts to a more interactive presentation form. in this respect the internet will play an increasingly important role, but also cooperations with festivals, contests and similar events, where one is in the midst of, and involved with, one’s target group. As far as 55DsL is concerned we will be concentrating to a larger extent on our fashion videos. Thanks for talking to us. www.55dsl.com

BRAnD FEATuRE HERITAGE DRYKoRN, KiTziNGeN

aFFordaBle luxurY

Marco Götz in discussion with Ilona Marx

TexT Ilona Marx PHoTos Andi Zimmermann

Kitzingen on the western banks of the Main river in Germany isn’t exactly renowned for being the epicentre of world affairs. If the modest little city is known for anything then it’s the wine that grows just beyond its borders. But wait, something else is growing and ripening well here too: German fashion by Drykorn. Jetsetting and down-to-earth, sexy and obsessed with materials, sporty but tailored – terms that you wouldn’t exactly expect to go together, but that all hit the mark when it comes to Drykorn. After a good 15 years on the market, the premium label with a penchant for fair prices has not only established itself on the international market but, step by step and in its own time, has also expanded its collections along with its ambitions. J’N’C editor-in-chief ilona Marx met the frankonian company’s fab four for a relaxed business lunch in the Würzburg restaurant Lammbock. it was here she found out that there is one thing that Drykorn boss and founder Marco Götz, his namesake fred Götz, product manager for menswear, marketing boss Marino edelmann and Angela Kunst, who is responsible for the womenswear, all have in common: they are all passionate about their convictions. Since its launch in 1996 Drykorn has developed from being a small supplier of men’s trousers into an internationally operating men’s and womenswear label. Can its success be expressed in figures? Marco Götz: over the past four years our turnover has tripled; menswear currently makes up 40 percent of our turnover, and womenswear 60 percent, with collections of the same size. What are the reasons for your growth? Marco Götz: it’s mainly down to the diversification of the collection and especially the fact that we have been offering a complete collection for women for the past three years. over time, we’ve been adding more product groups. That has had a positive effect on our turnover, as well as being good for our visibility on the market. An interesting factor is also our online shop, although it accounts for as little as 10 percent of our turnover. But the young clientele in particular likes to inform themselves online – and for example, sees the trend items from our collections that may not land in retail in overly large quantities. That contributes to our brand image. Could one assume from your figures that you weren’t particularly affected by the financial crisis? Marco Götz: The fact is that the financial crisis actually worked in our favour. Many of the customers who were previously in the luxury sector have now re-orientated toward labels in the premium or mid-premium sector, which is where we are. What we want to provide is a kind of attainable luxury. our styles are affordable but we offer excellent quality, supreme craftsmanship and good design. What is your definition of good design? Marco Götz: Good design impresses the consumer. That is a clear 66

criterion in my eyes. Which doesn’t mean you have to pander to every taste. Quite the contrary: innovation and individuality are very much a part of it. But if the target group is too small, then i wouldn’t call it design, but rather art. fred Götz: for me, a central criterion in the men’s clothing segment is the naturalness of it. The man should in no way look dressed up. of course it is important to pick up on fashion trends. But it shouldn’t result in something over-designed or avant-garde. individuality in fashion, yes. But if something comes across as too complicated it’s no longer cool. Angela Kunst: Design is, of course, a question of definition. on the one hand, good design means a quality product that gains acceptance from the chosen target group. on the other hand there are things that may not initially elicit approval, that nevertheless deserve the seal of good design. Classics that aren’t trying to comply with trends and the zeitgeist. Talking of trends: how do you scout for information prior to creating a new collection? fred Götz: People on the street offer a lot of inspiration, a textile trade fair can be a source, and, of course, increasingly the internet – but to be honest we don’t take things too seriously when it comes to trends. for example if we’re in Paris, we often ask the question: do we make the dash to Colette or do we go for a nice meal instead? And, believe me, we still manage to come up with a collection without having been to Colette! it’s often more profitable to stand in front of a club and watch people coming and going. Anyhow, in the fashion scene i am most likely to meet people who look exactly like me (laughs). Whether it’s in your local supermarket or at the airport of some international city – as a designer you always go through life with your eyes wide open. And at the end of the day you draw a line and say okay, that’s relevant to me and that isn’t. it’s usually an instinctive decision. Marco Götz: Which doesn’t mean that we don’t have to stay tuned to the trends. But there are always so many parallel trends. if you tried to fit them all into one collection you’d soon lose credibility. fred Götz: Which is exactly why, in my opinion, you shouldn’t get too hung up about the target group. it’s better to orientate yourself on your own needs and design the things you’d like to wear too. So in the end you are your own target group? That means that the label also ages with you … Angela Kunst: (laughs) We just stay young. Marco Götz: of course you have to keep a label young. But because our design is very progressive i see our main challenge in the area of communication.

Clockwise from top left: Marco Götz, Angela Kunst, Fred Götz, Marino Edelmann, Anna Lena Wiesinger

Marino Edelmann: You have to choose the right wholesale buyers and not neglect social media. For me fashion is not restricted by age. Of course there is fashion meant only for the young, but that is mainly in the streetwear sector. Our target group starts around the mid-twenties, which also has to do with the price range. Upward there is no age restriction: anyone can wear Drykorn if they have the figure for it. You visualise this attitude very nicely through your choice of slightly more mature male models in your lookbooks. Would more mature women be an option for you as well? Marco Götz: Of course! We are always looking. Sadly there are hardly any agencies with older female models on their books. But, to avoid any misunderstanding: when we choose a more mature male model, it’s not because of his age, but because he has that special something and isn’t just beautiful in the classic sense of the word. For us it is important that our claim ‘For beautiful people’ is understood in the broadest sense.

What are your most important markets and where do you see potential? Marco Götz: Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the Benelux countries are our core markets. Internationally we work together with around 1000 retailers. There is also a growing interest in Asia and the USA. But in the USA in particular you have to be cautious: the market is enticing, but the sales mentality is very different from that of central Europe. Also, the more international you become, the more compromises you have to make. And that is at the cost of your own individual DNA. So we will continue to concentrate on our core markets, especially seeing as we have already grown much faster than expected. That means there is still enough room for improvement. We have already increased staff levels and improved structure. But especially when it comes to the women’s collection we would like to work more intensely and conceptually than before. Are there products you would like to add to your product palette? Shoes for example? Angela Kunst: Shoes? Oh dear, I think I’d have my reservations.

The Drykorn autumn/winter collection consists of a lot of leather, mohair and silk. How do you manage to keep your prices so moderate with such luxurious materials? Marco Götz: Our marketing budget is very slim. We prefer to invest in the product. And because of our growth over the past seasons we have been able to reduce costs.

Fred Götz: Well, for me in the menswear department it would even be conceivable. I already have a folder full of requests from prospective licensing partners. But because we don’t have the sufficient know-how in that area, I think it’s better to stick to what we know instead of watering down the collections with random lifestyle item additions.

Angela Kunst: We still do a lot of subcontracting which enables us to make smaller runs of items. Although that affects our costs less than our flexibility.

Angela Kunst: If we really wanted to offer a shoe that would suit Drykorn, then I am sure we wouldn’t be able to maintain the excellent value-for-money balance that we are known for.

Where are your clothes made? Marco Götz: The majority of the collections is produced in Eastern Europe. Knitwear comes from Bulgaria, the entire ready-to-wear apparel from Serbia, Romania and Portugal. All of the sportswear is made in Italy and Tunisia. Only a very small percentage of the production is carried out in Asia.

Marco Götz: The fact is: we don’t want to grow in a direction where we have to surrender control. That includes not wanting to be made dependent on a licensing partner. Our main agenda is not just the stabilisation of turnover but also the continued propagation of the ideas which Drykorn represents. Thanks for talking to us. 67

Brand Feature Heritage AlBERTO, MöNchENGlADBAch

Pants, Greens & Jubilees TExT Andreas Grüter

Marco Lanowy has a lot on his plate at the moment. After all, in addition to the daily business grind and trade fair planning, he is also putting the final touches to the launch of the Alberto Golfwoman collection – the first ladies’ trousers range in the company’s history. And the upcoming birthday party to celebrate the label’s 90th anniversary also needs to be organised. So we were all the more delighted that Alberto’s Managing Director took the time out to take a look back at the past and ahead to the future with J’N’C’s Ilona Marx and Andreas Grüter.

Hello Marco. Congratulations on 90 years of trouser expertise! What have you got planned for this milestone birthday? Thank you very much. First of all of course we want to continue investing our entire expertise and energy into the research and creation of the perfect trousers and impress with quality, design and high standards, just as we have been doing for the past 90 years. And looking at the current figures, it seems as if we are on the right track. After all, in the past ten years we have managed to increase our turnover from eight to 38 million, as well as the number of employees from 28 to a current 95, and to go from selling 380,000 items to almost 1.4 million. We’re also working here with a stock of 85,000 items that are available daily and can be sent to the customer within 24 to 48 hours. Admittedly this is a really rapid development. And yet we have always attached great importance to building up a healthy structure, to grow organically, closely and sustainably with retailers and thereby safeguard our future. But you will be celebrating, won’t you? Of course! And as it should be for a family-run company, we will be throwing a family party for all of our employees – in the building where the first pair of Alberto trousers was made in 1922. As luck would have it, the premises were empty so we’re going to fill it with life once again with a big party night full of surprises. I’m really looking forward to it. And for our employees and our customers, just in time for the Bread & Butter, there will be a book about the Alberto story. 200 pages of interviews, anecdotes, photos, old advertisements and lots of explanatory and accompanying texts – hand signed, elegantly bound and held together with a high-quality leather belt with anniversary embossing. Quite a mammoth project, but it has really been worth it. Even if you have long since been internationally positioned, you still seem to have a very close connection to the old textile and clothing town of Mönchengladbach. A sentimental mood, or is there more to it? Apart from the fact that Mönchengladbach is the cradle of Alberto and this is simply where our roots lie, in my opinion the city still represents one of the most significant locations in the German clothing industry. Plus of course the fact that the city’s University of Applied Sciences is there, pooling its know-how with really forward-thinking concepts and with whom we have been working with for many years. Many graduates from the Mönchengladbach University of Applied Sciences have written their dissertations with us, and 80 to 90 percent have been kept on afterwards. 68

So one could say you have grown up with this university? Well, certainly to quite a large extent. Internally we work very transparently and want and need the input of each employee to be able to move forward. I think that’s one of the reasons why the fluctuation in the company is so low and also why the graduate students stay. Each employee sees himself as part of the bigger picture, and we also know that we won’t get anywhere without satisfied employees. Everyone pulls together. At the end of the day that is what defines our core expertise. Alberto is approaching the subject of trousers in a simple and holistic way. This not only involves us thinking about the design, tailoring and material, but also carrying out fieldwork at POS. Who wears the trousers, how are they purchased, what functions do they have to fulfil, how are they presented etc. etc.? All of these are important questions – questions about the mechanics of the trousers, as I call it. And these trouser mechanics constantly flow into our work. Your second biggest project for 2012 is the launch of Alberto Golfwoman, your first ever ladies’ trousers collection. How did that come about? We kept getting enquiries from female golfers, who were impressed by the functionality of the Alberto golf trousers of their husbands and wanted similar trousers for themselves. And that really tempted us of course. Yet we hesitated for a long time because our name actually stands for men’s trousers. But after the first tests we were totally fired up and set to work. Many elements have been taken from the men’s golf collection. Apart from the fit and a range of feminine details of course. We are really happy with the results, and following the first trial sales in stores the trousers are being very well received. At the end of June the collection will be sent to the agencies, who will present them to retailers. And the style will be available in stores from January 2013. Will you be aiming the range at specialist golf stores? Definitely in the long term. But our current studies are showing that 70 percent of female golfers still prefer to buy their golf trousers in specific trouser departments than in the specialist golf department. So it makes sense to appeal to them in that context. It was a similar situation

with the launch of our men’s golf collection. And nowadays we not only sell the trousers in the specialist golf segment, but, with currently 380 stockists there, we are also very close to market leadership. So we can afford to fall back on a wealth of experience when it comes to specialist golf retailers, which allows us to build a lot of bridges. Is it not difficult to appeal to women with trousers in general, and golf trousers specifically? I don’t think so. After all, sportswomen in particular look for clothing that is functional and thereby fulfils the demands of their sport. But ideally, at the same time, they should also be chic, and we are bringing both aspects together. We’re not achieving this through massive advertising, but are instead relying on word of mouth within the community. That might take a while longer, but it’s a lot more effective and honest. I think that the quality and functionality of our golf trousers simply speak for themselves. Is golf the starting shot for you to also become active in other ladies’ segments? We’ll see. We’ve started with the most difficult segment, and depending on how it develops we will of course be making further steps. You have set up a brand new tailoring and design team for the ladies’ styles, right? Yes, and Anna Walendy, the daughter of Rolf Walendy, and granddaughter of the company founder, is taking over the management. By the way, Alberto Golfwoman is completely independent, so isn’t oriented on the men’s collection in any way, either in terms of colour, form or material. Whereby of course there can always be overlaps. By the way, Anna’s brother Philipp is responsible for the product management of ADenim. It’s all staying in the family … Speaking of ADenim: your jeans label has developed fantastically. Yes, so well that as well as our denims we are now also offering chinos and even pants made from washed wool and PTT. What all styles have in common is this unique chill value, that special wearing comfort, which differentiates regular jeans from denim trousers.

… and it’s also the special chill value that separates ADenim from Alberto trousers? With chinos and co. it seems like you’re ‘poaching on your own property’, so to say ... Of course at first glance there isn’t too much of a difference, but at the end of the day Alberto and ADenim appeal to a very different clientele. So in that respect I don’t see it as problematic if there is a bit of an overlap every now and again. Nicely summed up Marco. Thank you very much for your time.

Brand Feature Handmade VIcTORINOx, IBAch-SchWYz/SWITzERlAND

sharP and swiss TExT Andreas Grüter

Victorinox is picking up the pace. After successfully making the change from a mere Swiss army knife manufacturer to an international lifestyle and fashion brand over the past few years, an intensive fine-tuning and refining of the design and concept is on the cards for the quality-loving Swiss label in 2012, involving several illustrious guests of honour. So it’s high time we brought you up to speed. 128 years of traditional craftsmanship under the sign of the Swiss cross not only calls for a high degree of historical awareness, but also requires a constantly watchful eye on the present and the future. This is of course something that Victorinox is only too aware of, and so it’s hardly surprising that the team behind the Swiss label are working enthusiastically on the continual development and modification of their product portfolio, instead of merely concentrating on the dependable business of the label’s classic products. And with resounding success. In March the ‘Tomo’ – a remodelling of the legendary Swiss Army Knife designed in cooperation with the dynamic Japanese design unit Abitax – received the coveted Red Dot Design Award, while, as part of a design contest together with online creative platform Jovoto, more than 1600 community members gave the 58-millimetre classic pocket knife a new look. There is particular focus on the continuation of the cooperation with exceptional British designer christopher Raeburn. his autumn/winter 2012/13 ‘Protect’ capsule collection not only provides the right dose of edginess in terms of the look, but also when it comes to sustainability, with a seven-part series of highly functional and jackets and bags made from recycled materials. The styles of the regular summer 2013 range are clean and clever at the same time. You’ll find outerwear including jackets, sweaters, blazers and tees robust nylons and high-quality tech materials combined with extra soft cotton, skilfully crafted, nautically inspired detailing and understated summery colourways. www.victorinox.com

LaBeLs to WATch

Young heroes TExT Jolien Deckers

Attention please! The next few pages are all about four aspiring young talents who definitely deserve your attention. And we’re starting off in Amsterdam where German designer Michael Kampe is designing avant-garde menswear using unusual methods. Newcomer Mattijs van Bergen is also based in the Dutch capital, and he is also adding that extra helping of fantasy to his fashion. Mattijs’ womenswear collection for autumn/winter, for example, features a reunion with Atreyu, our childhood hero. Moving over the big pond: in New York Jonathan Simkhai is designing sophisticated casual chic for ladies from all walks of life. Simkhai’s inspiration? his own wardrobe. And last but by no means least, Alexandra Kiesel and her Berlin artist friends are taking their inspiration from everyday life and providing an impressionistic autumn/ winter collection. The highlight: Kiesel’s building block system, which even impressed Marc Jacobs. let the show begin!

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Michael Kampe The DeconsTrucTivisT Some designers stick to the rules, while others like to experiment. Michael Kampe belongs to the latter. Taking apart classics like the trench coat, parka or men’s jacket provides a source of fascination for the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts graduate. It is not unusual for him to use exploded-view diagrams and blueprints in his work, like the ones used by engineers in the construction of industrial machinery. With the help of these plans he puts the individual components of the fashion he has just deconstructed back together – and is also known to discard one or the other outdated rule of tailoring. For alongside the formal aspects of fashion art also provides the hamburg designer with important inspiration. For the current “Explosion View” collection he mainly trawled Berlin on the search for new ideas – and this isn’t the only place where he found what he was looking for: Florian Baudrexel’s sculptures, lebbeus Woods’ theories about anarchistic architecture, E.V. Day’s installations and lucy McRae’s works about the human body form the conceptual cornerstones, and surprising material mixes the material basis. Michael Kampe is known, for example, to combine digitally printed cotton with foam, jersey with ultra-light nylon or poplin with linen. Sometimes the boundaries to art are crossed, and yet the collection should exude functionality and a cool masculine image. After all, according to Kampe: “Good avant-garde, especially in menswear, is still very hard to find.”

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05.-07.09.2012 d端sseldorf, germany

www.gds-online.com

Messe D端sseldorf GmbH Postfach 10 10 06 40001 D端sseldorf Germany Tel. + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-01 Fax + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-6 68 www.messe-duesseldorf.de

LaBeLs to WATch

The builDing block principle

genDer crossing

Does the world of fashion even come up with anything truly new these days? Alexandra Kiesel has serious doubts. One glimpse back at fashion history and it became clear to her that designers are constantly falling back on tried-and-tested designs. At best only the interpretation is new. With this idea in mind, whilst still studying fashion at the School of Art and Design Berlin-Weissensee, the newcomer developed a building block system, on which her label ‘Kiesel’, founded in 2010, is also based. Instead of conjuring up brand new collections six times a year, she sometimes uses designs several times, only swapping individual modules and fabrics. This means that everyone can design their own individual Kiesel outfit and create infinite combinations of old and new – customer-friendly, but also sustainable fashion. “I want something that endures; not just disposable fashion,” says the winner of the 2011 P&c Designer for Tomorrow Award. And the fact that Kiesel has cooperated with Berlin artists she knows for her latest autumn/winter collection makes her even more likeable. Under the headline ‘Support your local heroes’, illustrations by Various & Gould, Golden cosmos and Tiziana Jill Beck are merged with colours from the Impressionist painting of the 19th century. And Impressionism is also setting the tone in terms of the motifs used: prints show everyday items like cutlery or Berlin’s Plänterwald forest for example. Sharp corners and edges, voluminous shapes and softly draped fabrics dominate in terms of the cut and material. Refreshingly different and a good way to combat the winter blues!

Ever since the boyfriend jeans trend, more and more designers have been combining feminine with more masculine styles. like Jonathan Simkhai, who presented his first womenswear collection in 2010. At the young age of 14 the fashion designer, who was born in New York, got a taste of the fashion industry through his job in a clothing store and his career was mapped out from there. his studies at the Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York were just one step on the path towards fulfilling a life’s dream of setting up his own label. Simkhai’s current pre-season collection is based on favourite pieces from his own wardrobe. By mixing neutral pastel tones with vibrant colours, casual silhouettes and the use of sophisticated details, the styles can be described as something between boyish and feminine. Elegant cashmere, wool, cotton and silk add a chic touch: Simkhai refuses to make compromises as far as the materials are concerned. he prefers Italian and Japanese fabrics. “In my designs I try to offer every type of woman something, and wish to inspire them all with my message,” says the designer. And this strategy seems to be working. his cosmopolitan womenswear is already being sold by high-end fashion houses Barneys, louis Boston and Fred Segal.

Visit WWW.AlExANDRA-KIESEl.DE

Visit hTTP://JONAThANSIMKhAI.cOM

Kiesel

Jonathan Simkhai

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Mattijs van Bergen sci-Fi Feminism Mattijs van Bergen is represented twice this coming autumn/winter 12/13 season: as the name suggests, Mattijs’ ‘Starburst’ collection transports us into a fantasy world. The Dutch womenswear designer’s enthusiasm for science-fiction heroes, like Princess leia from Star Wars and Atreyu from Michael Ende’s ‘The Neverending Story’, flows into his designs. lightweight high-tech polyester and fine silk form a contrast to stiff materials like leather, boiled wool and wool-crêpe. cool colours like midnight blue, black, green and mint are given metallic accents in gold and copper. And because Mattijs van Bergen is simply bubbling over with inspiration, he has also designed the ‘Aaiko loves Mattijs Magic Forest’ collection in cooperation with his compatriot Pauline Brakenhoff, founder of the Aaiko label. The result: a fairytale, in the truest sense of the word. The 25 items impress with their extraordinary colour effects and special material mixes, for example the combination of matt plissé with shiny leather or of wool with foil prints. The designer studied at the Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, in the Netherlands, and at the renowned central Saint Martins college of Art and Design in london. his motto: fashion should seduce – and surprise – women. Exactly like Mattijs’ autumn/winter collection, which is feminine, luxurious and innovative all at the same time.

Visit WWW.MATTIJSVANBERGEN.cOM

Brand Feature How we Love it MAc, WAlD/ROSSBAch

Brand Feature HeaL tHe worLd ISKO, BURSA / TURKEY

talkinG deniM TExT Fredericke Winkler

It’s usually less likely that you’ll achieve fame and glory if you work behind the scenes in an industry. After all, who knows the name of the producer of their favourite film – or of their favourite jeans? Apart from a few insiders, no one. It does seem, however, that this rule, especially in the business with the blue gold, is starting to be broken.

Pants-o-Matic

Okay, garnering success simply by consistently sticking to what one does best is certainly nothing new, but an extremely admirable concept – especially if one’s intransigence is not based on a finely spun plot by the marketing department, but on real conviction. Or in other words: MAc is down-to-earth, in the most positive sense of the word. This is reflected both in-house with horizontal hierarchies, short decision-making paths, the involvement of employees in the decisionmaking process and on-going further training programmes, as well as in the overall way of conducting business. If they talk about perfect fits, above-average quality, excellent value for money and a real service mentality, then that’s exactly what they mean. After all, 1400 international retail partners in Europe and North America can’t be wrong. The key to success lies, on the one hand, in a sophisticated system of fast delivery schedules, innovative goods presentation and sales promotion programmes, as well as extensive NOS packages, and, on the other, in the provision of five men’s outerwear and six ladieswear pre-order collections, which, since 2012 are being complemented by a whole range of innovative side projects. Starting this coming autumn, hamburg fashion designer Iris von Arnim will be entrusting the Bavarian label with the licensing rights for her high-quality ladies’ trousers. Together with Playboy Magazine a limited men’s trouser range has been launched. And with ‘True Blue by MAc’, this summer the company is launching a jeans range that is kind on resources – drawing upon a clever combination of recycled cotton, regular cotton and Tencel®, as well as a fibre derived completely from wood. A pioneering course of action, which shall be consistently pursued in 2013. We can’t wait to see where it takes them next.

Recently, when it comes to particularly ground-breaking innovations, the fabric suppliers and production facilities of jeans have been moving further and further into the spotlight and are presenting denims that are finished using a fraction of the usual water consumption, or materials that consist of an astonishingly high amount of recycled textiles. At the forefront of this international producer squad is Turkish denim specialist Isko, who has the capacity to produce around 200 million metres of denim fabric per year and whose current portfolio includes more than 25,000 products. With a corporate history spanning more than 100 years and an affinity to new technologies, the supplier is renowned for its quality and reliability – and on top of that also recommends itself as an ‘ingredient brand’. They work for brands like Diesel and Nudie Jeans and succeed in linking themselves to particularly innovative materials in a particularly effective media-friendly way. For example as part of the cooperation with Italian label haikure, whom Isko is providing with an ecological stretch selvedge. A QR code on the label enables the wearer to get a better picture of the production chain. Together with the company hudson, the producer recently developed a smooth and soft knitted denim fabric, which is particularly suitable for the production of jeggings. The new backend stars particularly stand out in the green sector. At present ten percent of the materials Isko produces consists of ecologically harvested raw materials and an equally high proportion of recycled materials. The production processes are optimised with a specially constructed purification plant in Bursa and through special filtration systems, which, according to the company, means that the cO2 emitted during production can be reduced by 60 percent. Eco, sustainability, transparency – this is the trio of attributes that seems to emanate from the textiles, with the promise of a new coolness. Unlike papa ‘sandblasting’ and mama ‘stonewashing’ they can’t necessarily be seen. Yet they increasingly define the pioneering textile work. “Whatever the case, consumers are paying more and more attention to sustainability, but only if the product is nice, fashionable and sold at the right price. So eco is important, but not yet a real sales argument for customers,” says Marco lucietti, Marketing Director of Isko. Which is why it is so important to have forward-thinking producers, in whose hands aesthetics, price and ethics come together to make a pair of sought-after jeans. And then the spotlight is sure to follow them behind the scenes too.

www.mac-mode.com

www.isko.com.tr

TExT Andreas Grüter

Founded in 1973, MAC has long since been regarded as one of the leading European manufacturers of ladies’ and men’s trousers. A staunch achievement, which seems all the more remarkable considering that the company has never really been in the business of trying to create trends or follow them, preferring instead to stick to quality and attention to detail in its designs, rather than hype bubbles.

reTail

Andreas Murkudis couldn’t care less about the hippest fashion labels of the season, Andreas Murkudis, nor does he hang the ‘sale’ sign out … Berlin

Books are arranged on scuffed wooden benches, Voo Store, clothes are hanging on rusty hooks … Berlin

»It’s great to have plenty of money, Merci, but it’s not the most important thing in life« Paris

Centre Commercial,

Two young boys join forces to create a better world! Paris

Upside-down stairs leading up to the ceiling, Alter, mannequins posing on their heads … Shanghai

Something special – clancey and Melton were sure – can also get away with being hidden Any Old Iron, down a side street of Manhattan. New York

RETAIl andreas murkudis BERlIN

The Fashion curaTor TExT Gerlind Hector PhOTOS Colorstorm Digital/Berlin PORTRAIT Magnus Reed

Mr. Murkudis and his flair for the zeitgeist! With his penchant for product longevity, sustainability and ‘slow shopping’, the Berliner really stands out from the rest of the fashion retail crowd. Initially his move from Mitte to Schöneberg earned him nothing but disapproval. But he who laughs last ... he quite simply won’t play the game! Andreas Murkudis couldn’t care less about the hippest fashion labels of the season, nor does he hang the ‘sale’ sign out just because new stock is piling up in the stock room. And he doesn’t even abide by the universal law that applies to all retailers: shift stuff as fast as possible, with the highest possible turnover. But wait, Andreas Murkudis isn’t just any old ‘retailer’! And certainly no run-of-the-mill ‘salesman’ trying to palm you off with any old random shirt. Murkudis, a Berliner with Greek roots, is an aesthete and more a fashion curator than a fashion capitalist. he spent twenty years working in Kreuzberg’s ‘Museum der Dinge’ (Museum of Things) before open78

ing his store on Münzstrasse in 2003, which, thanks to its unusual assortment of goods, was a big hit right off the bat. “I am not the type to buy a trendy shirt for just one season,” says Andreas Murkudis. “For me the value of things is paramount and I love it when certain items accompany me through life.” It’s already a well-known fact that his fine antennae point the way long before the new zeitgeist has been officially announced. The lesson Murkudis is teaching us now is that you sometimes have to let go of things to remain true to yourself: a few months ago he moved his store from Berlin-Mitte to Schöneberg: from the hip shopping scene to the boring western part of the city? “I knew that the atmosphere in the area around Münzstrasse and hackesche höfe would at some point shift,” says the fashion visionary. “I felt that Potsdamer Strasse was somehow more challenging and when I moved into the former ‘Tagesspiegel’ building I was really excited.” The refurbishment of the new 1000m² store

was carried out by architect duo Gonzalez & haase, who were also responsible for the store on the Münzstrasse, creating an almost museum-like character. It’s all very light and airy with generous proportions and shelving almost eight metres high on which the items are presented like works of art. Selected styles from Dries van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela and Andreas’ brother Kostas Murkudis are part of the range, as well as shoes, accessories, books and design objects. Solid craftsmanship is a priority at the new Schöneberg store. Andreas’ ethos: the items he sells should be handled with care during the entire manufacturing process. So he has been known to send his co-workers right across the country in order to check out the production methods of a specific product. There is also a genuine curiosity to find out how much work, technique and love is hidden in each detail. Murkudis is also a loyal soul so he likes to offer collections from designers he values personally, even if they aren’t top sellers for a season. “Then that simply

andreas Murkudis POTSDAMER STRASSE 77-87, E 10785 BERlIN T +49 (0)30 680798306 WWW.ANDREASMURKUDIS.cOM

gets compensated by other things,” laughs Murkudis. After all he knows that he can trust his instinct in the long-term. The designers are grateful and repay his trust with exclusive limited-edition garments. his next coup, this much we can reveal, is another store in Berlin’s so-called Bikinihaus (a listed building) on Budapester Strasse. Murkudis wants to take over 1200m², pretty much the entire second floor, and the range will be expanded in the upper and lower price ranges. The opening is planned for the beginning of 2013. Sceptics are still somewhat surprised at this second expedition to the Wild West. The Bikinihaus is close to the Bahnhof zoo, holiday Inn and the Gedächtniskirche church, an area that isn’t exactly renowned for being a trendy hotspot in the capital. But Mr. Murkudis is sure to know what he’s doing ...

RETAIl voo store BERlIN

va va va voo! TExT Svea Jörgens PhOTOS Voo Store

As well as Ku’damm, the Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg is one of the best known streets in Berlin. This is the turf of hip capital city tourists and also where anarchists regularly get into street fights with the police. In the final years of the Second World War, at house number 6, Konrad Zuse developed the Z4 calculation computer, which ended up being the first computer that was mass produced. Right in the middle of all this activity, in a quite conservative building complex at number 24, is the currently coolest multi-brand store in Berlin, perhaps even in the whole of Germany. The Voo Store is somewhat hidden in a rear courtyard. Although the shop is in a former locksmith’s shop, you’ll be searching for the typical run-down Berlin style in vain: the courtyard is bathed in welcoming sunlight. Nothing from the hectic hustle and bustle of the street outside can be heard. And if it weren’t for the poisonous green illuminated letters spelling out ‘Voo’ hanging resplendently above the glass façade, you might even think that you were standing in front of a children’s nursery. But no, here in an area covering 300 m², you will indeed find a handpicked selection of exquisite designer fashion, avant-garde brands, 80

established labels and choice sports and streetwear. Scandinavian labels Acne, Stine Goya and Wood Wood hang next to pieces by much hyped fashion designers like Damir Doma and henrik Vibskov. Sneakers by New Balance and Nike are enthroned on wooden pedestals, flanked by the legendary cut-out shoes by Minimarket and complemented by a wide palette of Uslu nail polishes. Voo sees itself as a concept and lifestyle store. creative director herbert hofmann attaches great important to a diverse, high-quality assortment without frills or gimmicks. Nevertheless, there has to be a space for coffee-table accessories like illustrated books, stationery and must-have magazines, but only on the condition that they are perfectly coordinated to the corresponding fashion portfolio. The price plays a subordinate role. And so the items range from anything between a couple of euros and the sky is your limit. What’s important to hofmann is the selection of the goods: they should, as far as possible, work in a cultural context. So it’s hardly surprising that Voo also offers young creatives a platform: exhibitions, concerts and readings regularly take place here. Sounds like the typical Berlin hipster hotspot? Anything but, as the Voo Store has something that the capital city’s other ‘in’ stores are lack-

ing: design. Far removed from any retro chic, the former workshop has been transformed into a minimalistic shop with industrial charm. construction site lamps, crumbling walls and old workbenches have not been placed in the centre of the architecture, but expertly incorporated into the interior: books are arranged on scuffed wooden benches, clothes are hanging on rusty hooks, bags have been draped on well-worn ladders, and shirts on disused iron rods. The concept is clean, simple and neatly arranged. Regardless whether design, fashion or art – there is enough room for everything to be displayed to its full effect. You might even feel like you’re in a gallery and feel hesitant to buy anything in fear of destroying the coherent image. Voo recently received the ‘Superstore Award’ from the online shop platform Farfetch, a prize which was awarded this year for the first time. But whoever the candidates for 2013 may be – they’ll really need to pull out all the stops. After all, they’re going to have their work cut out if they want to knock Voo off the number one spot any time soon. Voo store ORANIENSTRASSE 24 10999 BERlIN T +49 (0)30 61651119 WWW.VOOBERlIN.cOM

+49 - 30 - 4 4 0 4 4 4 12

i n fo@ jetlagjeans . com 81

RETAIl merci PARIS

merci, chérie! TExT Gerlind Hector PhOTOS Merci Merci

Working for free? No problem for a dynamic married couple from Paris, who are showing the fashionistas how to spend their money – without a guilty conscience. The charity shop Merci donates its entire profits to a good cause. “It’s great to have plenty of money, but it’s not the most important thing in life,” says someone who should know. Marie-France cohen has amassed enough of it to dedicate the rest of her life to the pursuit of pure pleasure. At the beginning of the seventies she founded the children’s fashion company Bonpoint – because she couldn’t find any clothes she liked for her kids. The business was soon booming and nowadays the offspring of Brangelina, Bellucci and co. all sport the cute dresses and trousers with the curved lettering of the Bonpoint logo. It was a goldmine that Marie-France has since sold. “After 30 years my husband and I knew it was time for something else.” The couple didn’t really feel like spending their golden years playing golf or pruning roses. So in the centre of the hip Marais district in Paris they bought an old factory building and opened Merci in March 2009, the city’s first charity shop. On an area of 1500 m² you can find everything you could possibly want – from the finest fashion to clunky bicycle bells, from casual hats to designer stools. You can easily spend days rummaging through vintage items and new stuff spread over the three spacious, light-filled floors. And when you get tired you can refuel at the adjoining coffee shop with a freshly pressed juice or vitamin-packed salad. You’ll certainly need an energy boost if you want to check out every corner and all the sensory impressions that Merci has to offer. You almost feel like you are in a lovingly designed private home where books have been erratically piled onto bookshelves and a dress has been thrown over a cupboard door. “Our inspiration was the small traditional British shops that always make you feel welcome,” enthuses 82

Marie-France, stroking her tightly tied back, grey-flecked hair. Overblown vanity is not her thing and she certainly doesn’t take herself too seriously. “My husband Bernard and I have had a lot of luck in our lives,” she says thoughtfully. “So I guess it was somehow time to say ‘Merci’.” And of course the name says it all in this unusual shop concept. Because the whole point of a charity store is its altruistic quality: the only money they take from the till are for the running costs. The entire profits go to various charity projects. Especially dear to the hearts of Marie-France and Bernard is a foundation that supports mothers in Madagascar. Fashion designers like Stella Mccartney, Kris van Assche, Paul Smith and others support them as good as they can and regularly donate items to Merci from their collections, naturally waiving their own cut. So much generosity is infectious – for the customers too. Nobody at Merci needs to feel guilty, if, instead of the one T-shirt they were planning to buy, they end up with a chandelier, three pairs of children’s shoes and an inflatable rubber toy. And when you leave you get to feel like the in-house shop mascot: directly in front of the entrance there is a bright red cinquecento stuffed to the brim with all kinds of bric-a-brac, which looks like it’s about to explode from its heavy load: a little how you will look after such an extensive shopping spree! But one glance at the “Merci” number plate will quickly remind you that it’s all for a good cause! Merci 111, BOUlEVARD BEAUMARchAIS 75003 PARIS T +33 (0)1 42770033 WWW.MERcI-MERcI.cOM

Photograph by: Gary Fitzpatrick

WWW.1921JEANS.COM 83

ReTail Centre CommerCial paRis

CommerCe with a heart TexT Gerlind Hector phoTos Centre Commercial

Simply raking in the cash is not enough for Messieurs Kopp and Morillion. The two Parisian entrepreneurs have bigger plans in mind: quite simply, they want to improve the world. A little more each day. They have already conquered the Paris scene with their ecological shoes – and recently also opened their very own ‘shopping centre’ in the Seine metropolis. Two young boys join forces to create a better world! sounds all well and good, and a little like a cheesy film plot, in which we know after the first few minutes that reality will eventually catch up with these good guys. But: miracles do happen in real life. it seems there are actually grown men out there who couldn’t give two hoots about a slick porsche or a golden Rolex. François-Ghislain Morillion and sébastien Kopp are two of these rare specimens! Close friends since the age of 14, they have made it their aim to turn the world upside down. But wait, the two parisians are not planning a revolution. “We don’t mind being the little fish in the big pond,” emphasises the duo. Why? Well, even constant perseverance eventually pays off. “What really annoys us is blatant commercialism and barefaced capitalism!” explains Morillion. This is the reason why he and sébastien have just opened their own ‘shopping centre’. sounds like a contradiction? Not in the case of the Centre Commercial, which is close to the trendy area of the Canal saintMartin. since December 2010, on an area of 150 m², they have been offering products that have been produced fairly and environmentally – and for which the term ‘craftsmanship’ is not an empty promise. at the Centre Commercial you’ll be looking for ultra-fashionable disposable items in vain. instead you will come across restored bicycles from the ateliers sans Frontières, 84

limited bags made from original Kilim rugs, produced in the workshop of the German label a Kind of Guise, and fashion by Moonchild, leaf and suzie Winkle. Morillion and Kopp have also concentrated on the essentials in the interior design of their store: the walls are only roughly plastered, the floorboards painted white. The gleaming brightness, which focuses one’s attention on the hand-picked goods, is highlighted by the unusual chandeliers made with fluorescent tubing and the partially glazed ceiling. a particular eyecatcher is a wall on which artists take turns creating works of art on a blank canvas. another firm fixture at the Centre Commercial is, of course, the footwear by their

in-house label Veja, which, founded six years ago, has meanwhile become a firm favourite on the paris scene. it’s not only the city’s renowned house DJ Martin solveig who supposedly has various pairs in his wardrobe, but also football pro Cristiano Ronaldo. and with good reason. although the trendy kicks are very much reminiscent of the wild 70s, the production of the shoes, however, is very future-oriented: the entire supply chain is ecologically and socially sustainable – starting with the organic cotton and natural rubber used. The naturally tanned leather is processed by Brazilian organic farmers, who can actually make a living from their wages. and the production also takes place in Brazil, under strictly monitored conditions. so if

that’s not ‘social business’ then what is? “oh, please don’t mention that!” say Morillion and Kopp, who have a deep-seated dislike of this term, which so many companies are now shouting from the rooftops – whether it’s true or not. The two parisian entrepreneurs neither want to make a big deal of what they’re doing nor become charity gala darlings. True to the motto ‘constant dripping wears away the stone’ they are simply working on the fine tuning of their sustainability concept and, peu à peu, just happen to be making the world better at the same time. Nothing more and nothing less. Voilà!

Centre CommerCial 2, Rue Du MaRseille 75001 paRis T +33 (0)1 42022608 WWW.CeNTReCoMMeRCial.CC

ReTail alter shaNGhai

alter ego TexT Gerlind Hector phoTos Shen Qiang

Have you ever had the feeling that the world is upside down? That’s all well and good, but we can go one better. Right in the middle of Shanghai, Sonja Long has made the impossible possible and opened a concept store that is unique, and not only by Chinese standards. The literal translation of shanghai is ‘upon the sea’. But if you want to discover the coolest store of the metropolis with a population of one million, you should definitely do an about turn and set off for xin Tian Di. here, in the shopping and entertainment quarter, you will find ‘alter’ – short for ‘alternative’. and the concept store certainly is an alternative to the usual shopping monotony. “i wanted to create something very special,” says owner sonja long. “Both in terms of the architecture as well as the range on offer.” and you do in fact feel like you’ve been transported into a different world upon entering the store, which, with an area of 150m² is comparably small. unusual perspectives and optical illusions are everywhere and start disorientating customers as soon as they walk through the door. upside-down stairs leading up to the ceiling, mannequins posing on their heads and mirror installations that don’t appear to lead anywhere. left, right, up, down – any sense of direction or gravity seems to be non-existent here. The space concept is the work of italian architect Francesco Gatti. his first priority when it comes to client consultation: “i always try to filter out the very unique essence of my client. The personality, the individual, the great idea.” so Gatti and sonja long had a lot of intense discussions until they came to the conclusion that artist M.C. escher, who died in 1972 and was a real master of illusion, should be the inspiration for the fanciful interior. at the opening in october 2010 nobody would have guessed that the critical and 86

relatively conservative clientele in shanghai would actually grow to love the crazy concept store. sonja long however, didn’t doubt it for a second. she is not only a genuine shanghai lady, but has also gained sufficient professional experience at luxury labels like Versace, where she perfected her fine flair for trends. in her store she offers fashion and accessories by many brands that are unavailable elsewhere in shanghai, including helmut lang, Thakoon and house of harlow. another plus: the professional consultation. every member of staff at alter is trained as a personal stylist so no customer will ever have to helplessly fend for themselves in the changing rooms. The icing on the cake is the monthly event organised by sonja long, where multimedia

artists can present their work. This is the perfect opportunity for exchange, on the one hand with shanghai’s high society, and on the other, with creatives from all walks of life. and these get-togethers often bear the fruits of new projects. like the one by DJane elise from paris, who has dedicated an individual soundtrack to alter, the CD of which is now being distributed amongst the store’s customers. and Fabrizio azzellini was also inspired by the extraordinary concept: “sonja long and i were instantly on the same wavelength creatively,” says the italian director about his first meeting with the Chinese owner. The result: a short film that reflects the fascination of the concept store. The selected dresses and accessories, which azzellini makes his

protagonists, can of course all be found at the shop. The young store owner is permanently fine tuning her concept, coming up with new events or extending her range with off-beat items. “We have customers who can spend up to four hours here,” laughs sonja long, who can rest assured that that’s not only down to the whimsical interior. alter. ConCept Store shop l112 xiN TiaN Di sTyle, opposiTe 310 Ma DaNG RoaD lu WaN DisTRiCT 200021 shaNGhai T +86 (0)21 63029889 WWW.alTeRsTyle.CoM

ReTail any old iron NeW yoRK

english men in new york TexT Gerlind Hector phoTos Andrew Clancey

„Rule Britannia“, was the idea of two eccentric gentlemen and a dog. Right in the middle of Manhattan the three of them opened a menswear store following a special recipe: fashion for the bold and brave, an off-the-wall sense of humour and a whole host of umbrellas. andrew Clancey and Christopher Melton certainly don’t belong on the scrap heap. There’s another reason why they named their New york store ‘any old iron’: in the year 1872 Clancey’s family set up a scrap metal business. “any old iron” was the cry of his forefathers, who made their way through the streets collecting scrap metal. The fact that such an old-fashioned business serves as a reference to the hip menswear store is proof of their humour – and especially their self-confidence. Just like its location: the store is off the beaten track of New york’s shopping streets. something special – Clancey and Melton were sure – can also get away with being hidden down a side street of Manhattan. and indeed: anyone in the us metropolis with a penchant for fashion beyond the mainstream now knows that he is guaranteed to find what he’s looking for on orchard street. The wares on offer and the shop design very much allow Clancey and Melton to show off their eccentric sides – and in the best British manner: you’ll only find menswear by designers from the united Kingdom at any old iron. The choice includes printed shirts by Vivienne Westwood, patchwork trousers by horace or glittery jackets by unconditional. and very exclusively they also stock fashion by a Child of The Jago, designed by none other than Joe Corre, the son of Vivienne Westwood and punk legend Malcolm Mclaren. The two creative New yorkers have discovered a real niche. although the Big apple is home to more fashion stores than you’d have time to get around in three weeks, the standard range for the fashion-conscious gentlemen usually starts with beige cargo 88

pants and ends in plain-coloured shirts with brand label. “Boring”, thought Clancey and Melton, who proudly present an array of very individual items. so when you’re out clubbing clad in one of their scottish tartan jackets, you won’t have to worry about bumping into anyone wearing the same thing. and the unusual shoes and accessories, including sunglasses that seem to have come from sir elton John’s 70s collection, are also sure to turn heads. so you’re best off snapping up any items at any old iron that set your rock’n’roll heart racing. after all, when it’s gone, it’s gone! “our main aim was to come across as credible and unique,” says Christopher Melton, and it’s hard to resist a smile: if there’s one thing that’s obvious here, it’s the fact that the two store owners are real lovers of their weird and wonderful range. and because the shop design should not be in any way inferior to the charisma of the owners and their portfolio, they have been busily painting, collecting and decorating. The result: jet-black painted walls, union Jack flags in front of the changing rooms and an array of typical British utensils. The scuffed wooden floors are testimony to the shop’s large numbers of visitors, and wildly printed umbrellas hang open from the ceiling. accuracy and meticulous order are avoided at all costs. each item has its own little place – whether the bright red telephone with dial from the last century or the silver till, which likely dates back even further. even the store’s little mascot Monkey fits in perfectly to this mix of cosy elegance and eccentricity. The brown and white spotted Boston terrier might think he’s the boss of the establishment, but he knows how to behave. he would never growl at the customers or follow them into the changing rooms. Typically polite, typically British. any old iron oRChaRD sTReeT 149 10002 NeW yoRK T +1 (0)917 4992429 WWW.aNyolDiRoN.NeT

shootings

Streetstyles International london, Milan, paris, New york

Mr. Heartthrob RenĂŠ Fietzek

102

Blue Blood amos Fricke

108

The Artist linda alfvegren

116

Never Mind Nadia Del DĂ˛

124

Color Lovers Katia Wik

Street Stylin’ iNTeRNaTioNal

london

iT’s No BiG seCReT ThaT FashioN is MaDe oN The sTReeTs JusT as MuCh as iT is iN DesiGNeRs’ sTuDios. oVeR The lasT TeN yeaRs We haVe BeeN KeepiNG oNe eye oN The sTReeTs aND DoCuMeNTiNG The sTReeT sTyles spoTTeD iN The MeTRopolises oF The WoRlD. aND NoW WiTh ouR NeW sTReeT sTyliN’ ColuMN We aRe eVeN CloseR To The aCTioN. leT’s sTaRT WiTh The ClassiCs: paRis, MilaN, loNDoN aND NeW yoRK. phoTos Axel Siebmann

london The FashioN aVaNT-GaRDe iN loNDoN liKes To DRess aNDRoGyNously aND GRuNGy. Too MuCh poMp is CoNsiDeReD passé – iT’s all aBouT uNDeRsTaTeMeNT, JusT hoW The BRiTs liKe iT.

Street Stylin’ iNTeRNaTioNal

milan

milan shoRT sKiRTs, hiGh heels – iN iTaly sex appeal is sTill oNe oF The DeFiNiNG FoRCes WheN iT CoMes To FashioN. aND iF you haVe To WeaR TRouseRs, TheN MaKe suRe They’Re oF The sliM FiT VaRieTy.

Street Stylin’ iNTeRNaTioNal

Paris

pariS loNG aND Maxi sTyles DeFiNe The sKiRTs aND TRouseRs, WiTh laiDBaCK oVeRsizeD CoaTs aND JaCKeTs. To CoMpleMeNT TheiR BeloVeD BlaCK aND WhiTe CoNTRasTs The paRisiaNs aRe also ChaMpioNiNG BRiGhT ColouR aCCeNTs.

Street Stylin’ iNTeRNaTioNal

new york

new york FuR aND leaTheR aRe playiNG The leaDiNG Role iN NeW yoRK’s iCy WiNTeRs, WhiCh is a Clue oF WhaT’s To CoMe iN The NexT ColD seasoN. iT Goes WiThouT sayiNG ThaT haTs oR Caps Will Be The sTaple iTeMs oF aNy ouTFiT.

Jacket & shirt Tiger of Sweden Belt Hope trousers Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Made & CrafTed socks faLke 94 shoes vinTage

college Jacket wrangLer shirt odeeH skirt rika 95THu THu shorts under skirt

coat pauL & Joe t-shirt with print wrangLer necklaces BJĂ¸rg denim shorts CurrenT/eLLioTT socks faLke 96 Boots aCne

t-shirt aveLon trousers kiLian kerner socks faLke shoes vinTage

denim Jacket CurrenT/eLLioTT Bra TriuMpH vinTage skirt pauL & Joe Belt Hope ring BJĂ¸rg socks 97 faLke shoes aCne

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denim shirt Tiger of Sweden pullover weekday t-shirt Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Made 99 & CrafTed Jeans energie

denim shirt denHaM leather waistcoat energie vest ModeL’S 100 own shorts BaLaganS

photography nadia deL dò / www.Birgit-stoever.de styling denniS BLyS / www.dennisBlys.com hair Hauke krauSe make-up iSaBeL eiLer / www.Ballsaal.com models lina d., roBerT a. / www.placemodels.com

leather Jacket rika Bra TriuMpH vinTage Belt Hope skirt THu THu socks faLke Boots dr. MarTenS vinTage

t-shirt Tiger of Sweden Jeans 101 denHaM Boots dr. MarTenS vinTage

Jacket / Replay Roll-neck pulloveR / tigeR of Sweden tRouSeRS 102 / campuS watch / g-Schock

photogRaphy / RenĂŠ fietzek / www.Renefietzek.com Styling / haniball Saliba / www.peRfectpRopS.de haiR & make-up / SaRah maRx model / michel / www.modelweRk.com

pulloveR / tommy hilfigeR

103

Jacket / manuel Ritz pulloveR / minimum tRouSeRS 104 / campuS ShoeS / Santoni

Jacket / Replay

pulloveR / lacoSte tRouSeRS / leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S made & cRafted

105

Jacket / g-StaR Roll-neck pulloveR / ben SheRman

ShiRt / minimum

Roll-neck pulloveR 107/ g-StaR tRouSeRS / coS

Denim jacket G-Star Cardigan Closed T-shirt Adidas SLVR Trousers Marc Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Polo

Photography aMos Fricke / amosfricke.com Styling adelaida cue BĂ¤r Hair & make-up Fee roMero Production la roquette Production manager JohN tichatschek Models chris sitzler / Nicolas hagius @ Nest

Pullover Mads 109 NĂ¸rgaard Shirt Boss oraNge

Shirt closed Tie h&M Trousers Frisur Braces aMericaN apparel Shoes hugo 110 Boss Socks calviN kleiN

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Shirt priM i aM

Shirt priM i aM Denim jacket toMMy hilFiger

Cardigan h&M Shirt herr voN edeN

Suit & pocket handkerchief herr voN edeN Shirt calviN kleiN Belt replay Glasses Mykita

Roll-neck herr voN edeN Pullover Mads NĂ¸rgaard Jacket house oF BilliaM Trousers caMo Glasses114 prada Shoes g-star

Shirt g-star Trousers closed Shoes uNdergrouNd Socks calviN kleiN

Shirt peNdletoN Dungarees herr voN edeN Hat stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oWN Shoes uNdergrouNd

116

Dress Day Birger et Mikkelsen Necklace BjĂ¸rg jewellery

Jumpsuit jereMy scott for aDiDas riNg Maria nilsDotter Hat Boss Black

117

sequiN top Day Birger et Mikkelsen lace paNties Bjรถrn Borg sHoes jereMy 118 scott for aDiDas Bracelet Maria norDstrรถM

Dress altewai.saoMe earriNg Diesel riNg Maria nilsDotter

Dress Day Birger et Mikkelsen Necklace BjĂ¸rg jewellery

Blouse Boss Black Jacket Boss Black Yoga paNts aDiDas Bracelet Maria norDströM riNg Maria 120nilsDotter umBrella stylist’s own

Jacket Boss orange top JereMy scott for aDiDas lace paNties caliDa Hat stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

sequiN Dress tiger of sweDen leatHer Jacket Diesel sHoes jereMy scott for aDiDas riNg Maria nilsDotter

121

122

Dress 2nD Day Jacket JeremY scott for aDiDas sequiN Bag altewai.saoMe sHoes jereMy scott for aDiDas

Blouse Boss Black trousers Boss Bag sonia By sonia rykiel riNg Maria nilsDotter tie Boss suspeNDers stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

pHotograpHer linDa alfvegren / www.liNDaa.se stYlist jessica Mittelton / www.artofficialageNcY.com Hair aND make-up linDa graDin / www.liNkDetails.com moDel Moa / www.NiscHmaNagemeNt.se pHoto assistaNt jolle

Photography: Katia Wik / www.katiawik.com Styling: Valerie Oster / www.valerieoster.de / represented by nude.agency Models: Rhianna Porter @ Modelwerk / www.modelwerk.de, LENNY @ IZAIO models / www.izaio.de Hair & Make Up: Cecilia Bourgueil using MAC / bumble and bumble / www.ceciliabourgueil.com / represented by nude.agency Assistant: Anna Cheret Photographic Assistant: Phillip Koll 124 Location: www.cbcompany.de

Shirt Sand Pants Cos

Top Cos Pants Marni Socks125 Weekday Shoes Beyond Retro

Shirt J.Lindeberg Jacket Lacoste 126 Pants Tiger of Sweden

Jacket Hugo Boss Shirt Tiger of Sweden Tie 127Drykorn Jeans Cheap MondayÂ

Cap Vans Top Hien Le Blazer Cinque Skirt Weekday Socks American Apparel 128 Shoes Acne

Shirt & Pants Hugo 129 Boss Pullover Tiger of Sweden

Jacket Tiger of Sweden Shirt Marc by Marc Jacobs Pants Henrik Vibskov Socks Stylists 130 own Shoes Hugo Boss

Scarf Desigual Blazer Tiger of Sweden Pullover Marc by Marc 131Jacobs Jeans Wood Wood

Index where to get

A Child of the JAgo www.achildofthejago.com

dRykoRn www.drykorn.com

pAul & Joe www.paulandjoe.com

ACne http://shop.acnestudios.com

edwin www.edwin-europe.com

peBBle london www.pebblelondon.com

AdidAs www.adidas.de

eneRgie www.energie.it

pendleton www.pendleton-usa.com

Agi & sAm www.agiandsam.com

e. tAutz www.etautz.com

pRAdA www.prada.com

AdidAs slVR http://slvrstore.adidas.com

fAlke www.falke.com

pRim i Am www.primiam.com

Alex mAttsson http://alexmattsson.com

g-sChoCk www.g-shock.eu

ReplAy www.replay.it

AltewAi sAome www.altewaisaome.com

g-stAR www.g-star.com

ReplAy www.replay.it

AmeRiCAn AppARel www.americanapparel.net

henRik ViBskoV www.henrikvibskov.com

Rokit www.rokit.co.uk

AVelon www.avelon.me

heRR Von eden www.herrvoneden.com

sAnd www.sand.dk

BAlAgAns www.balagans.lt

hien le www.hien-le.com

sAntoni www.santonishoes.it

BARBouR www.barbour.com

h&m www.hm.com

sCotCh & sodA www.scotch-soda.com

Ben sheRmAn www.bensherman.com

hope www.hope-sthlm.com

soniA By soniA Rykiel http://soniarykiel.com

Beyond RetRo www.beyondretro.com

house of BilliAm www.houseofbilliam.com

thu thu www.thu-thu.com

BJöRn BoRg www.bjornborg.com

hugo Boss www.hugoboss.com

tigeR of sweden www.tigerofsweden.com

BJøRg JewelleRy www.bjorgjewellery.com

izzue www.izzue.com

tommy hilfigeR www.tommy.com

BlAueR usA www.blauer.it

JAmes hoCk www.jameshock.co.uk

tRiumph www.triumph.com

Boss www.hugoboss.com

JeRemy sCott foR AdidAs www.addidasjeremyscott.com

undeR undeRweAR www.underunderwear.com

Boss BlACk www.hugoboss.com

J. lindeBeRg http://jlindeberg.com

VAns www.vans.com

Boss oRAnge www.hugoboss.com

kiliAn keRneR www.kiliankerner.de

weekdAy www.weekday.se

CAlidA www.calida.com

lACoste www.lacoste.com

wood wood http://woodwood.dk

CAmpus www.campus72.de

leVi’s mAde & CRAfted www.levismadeandcrafted.com

wooyoungmi www.wooyoungmi.com

CAlVin klein www.calvinkleininc.com

mAds nøRgAARd http://madsnorgaard.dk

wRAngleR www.wrangler-europe.com

CheAp mondAy www.cheapmonday.com

mAnuel Ritz www.manuelritz.com

Cinque www.cinque.de

mARC o’polo www.marc-o-polo.de

Closed www.closed.com

mARC By mARC JACoBs www.marcjacobs.com

Cos www.cosstores.com

mARiA nilsdotteR http://home.marianilsdotter.com

CuRRent / elliott www.currentelliott.com

mARiA noRdstRöm http://marianordstrom.com

CuliettA www.culietta.com

mARiA piAnA www.mariapiana.com

2nd dAy www.day.dk

mARni www.marni.com

dAy BiRgeR et mikkelsen www.day.dk

mARtinA spetloVA www.martinaspetlova.com

denhAm www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

mihARAyA suhiRo www.miharayasuhiro.jp

desiguAl www.desigual.com

minimum www.minimum.dk

diesel www.diesel.com

mykitA www.mykita.com

dR. mARtens www.drmartens.com

odeeh www.odeeh.com

3/12

3/12 Styleguide Madrid interview diane Pernet engliSh

132

Styleguide Madrid interview diane Pernet

FaShion BuSineSS, BrandS and urBan culture

d 9,50 euro B NL A 9,50 Euro E P I 11,50 Euro CH 12,80 CHF

engliSh edition

CoVeR

Fotograf Christoph Voy Styling Alex Heckel Make up Ischrak Nitschke Model Kathy Sanchez Assistenz Beatrice Gehrmann Cap Augustin Teboul Swimsuit Vintage Wedges Wicked

133

Where to FInd Us

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