Styleguide HAMBURG interview PeteR Jensen 4 / 2012
FaShion BuSineSS, BrandS and urBan culture
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engliSh edition
CENTURYBRANDS – DISTRIBUTION
SALES AGENCYS
Samowar Mode GmbH und Co. KG Grosser Hirschgraben 15 60311 Frankfurt, Germany T +49 69 28 11 07 F +49 69 28 48 47 E info@centurybrands.de W www.centurybrands.de
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content
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22 12
cONTENT
sTANDARDs 6
Editorial / Contributors
8
Column Hit-Bags not It-Bags
10
Booklookin’ Wald & Utilité
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Street Styles International
CITy GUIDe HAMBURG
48
22
Hot Spots Northern Highlights
40
Street People Jil’s Heirs
BRAND feATURes 44
Fashion and Retail Has the spark fizzled out for retail?
48
Interview Peter Jensen, London The Queen is amused
50
Interview Shabd, New York The Age of Aquarius
52
Interview Thomas Wirth, Replay No Biz like showbiz
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Interview Daniel Freitag, Freitag Tarpology
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Denim Weavers Denim by Name, Denim by Nature
60
Trade Shows Preview 2013
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Short Cuts
44 52
10 54
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content
04/2012
ReTAIl 72
Supermarket, Belgrade
74
Muléh, New York
76
Common People, Mexico City
fAsHIoN 80
cONTENT
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Jolie Fleurie Neda Rajabi
88
As Good As Knit Gets Nadia Del Dò
94
Thunder Birds Gunnar Tufta
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8
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Where to find us
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Index
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74
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Imprint
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76
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Pale Riders shuhei shine
04/2012
eDIToRIAl / CoNTRIBUToRs
EdiTOrial self-optimisation is one of the major topics of our times – but it’s not as if there are no strings attached: whilst the economy is aiming towards profit and growth, in our private lives the focus is on the development of our personality and own self-fulfilment. But does it really have to be an either/or issue? Being the detail fetishists that we are, the J’N’C team has always aimed to improve on the smallest of things – to enable us to grow in the big picture. At the end of the day we simply refuse to believe in the much-cited contradiction between creativity and commercial success. you are holding the result of our self-optimisation in your hands right now: as well as a design overhaul, aimed at helping you find your way round the magazine even better, at the end of an eventful year J’N’C has undergone another restructuring of content. In a world that is becoming more complicated by the day we want to give you a less cluttered view of things! of course we
are staying focused on the protagonists of the clothing industry and the retail trade. But beyond this we also wish to take a wider view of the topic of fashion. And J’N’C author Gerlind Hector is getting things off to a start. for this issue she has taken a closer look at the most important international denim manufacturers and asked them about the denim trends for 2013/14. At the other, consumer end of the supply chain, fredericke Winkler is asking how the retail trade can stand its ground against online shopping and the bigger, vertical players? Her answer: with passion of course! … which is something you don’t have to tell Hamburg’s retailers twice: even though the Hanseats generally have the reputation of being cool, that doesn’t seem to apply to their shop owners. faced with the vast number of fantastic shop concepts in Hamburg while putting together this issue’s Hamburg city guide, we were majorly impressed. That’s why we sincerely recommend
you take a look yourselves on your next visit to the harbour city – and make sure you test our bonus recommendations from page 23! We hope we’re on the right track with our constant desire for optimisation, and hope you enjoy reading what we have to say. Ilona Marx
CoNTRIBUToRs buSy beeS
gulliveR theiS Born in 1971 in freiburg in southern Germany, Gulliver Theis inherited his first Kodak Retina 3 from his grandfather in 1985. He experimented with it for a year before getting serious and succumbing to the art of photography in 1986. After winning the German youth Photo Prize, in 1991 he first attended the Basel school of Design before studying communications design at the HAW Hamburg from 1994, finally ending up at the New york International Center of Photography in 1996. His passions are photography, food and travel. His personal mission: further developing the medium – from the pinhole camera down to large format, there isn’t much he hasn’t tried out! Additional interests: people, the world, politics and social issues. He doesn’t like: senseless consumerism and fleeting trends. for this issue of J’N’C Gulliver Theis portrayed his current hometown Hamburg.
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neda Rajabi
ingo FaSt
Shuhei Shine
Born in 1982 in shiraz near Persepolis, raised in Germany and meanwhile at home in Berlin, at an early age Neda Rajabi started trying to get the bottom of the mystery of human beauty with a camera. But after leaving school she initially decided to study product design – before then finally finding her calling as a photographer after all. on set the passionate Persian cuisine chef and foodie prefers working with friends and kindred souls from the most diverse of disciplines, because “then the work doesn’t feel like work, but fun. The mood is right and creates that special something which gives the pictures a certain quality!” Neda likes travel adventures, unique sounds and fragrances and is quickly bored by boredom. for J’N’C she took photos of ‘Jolie fleurie’.
Growing up in the Black forest and on the shores of lake Constance, a pre-teen Ingo fast found it difficult to decide between painting and sailing as his first true love. so he simply combined both by doing countless drawings of sailing boats, which he gave to his family. It was an obsession, that, years later, led to an Atlantic crossing as well as a degree at Berlin’s Hochschule der Künste (University of the Arts) and The Parsons school of Design in New york. Meanwhile based in Bangkok, Ingo spends his time playing table tennis, listening to music, swimming and keeping his kids amused, when he’s not busy supplying his global clientele, including the New york Museum of Modern Art, the New york Times, Time Magazine and American express, with illustrations. for this issue of J’N’C Ingo fast drew his vision of the it-bag.
During a turbulent childhood and adolescence in Ishikawa, Japan, shuhei shine learnt to appreciate his camera as an adequate tool for the long-term archiving of everyday life, as well as expressing his creative visions. His first job was working for Miyazawa Masaaki, before he set off for london with several suitcases and his entire equipment in 2009, where he has earned his crust as a freelance photographer ever since. When shuhei isn’t rushing from set to set or settling down to watch his favourite DVD ‘The shawshank Redemption’ for the umpteenth time, he is travelling around the globe, always accompanied by the songs of Japanese rock musician Kyosuke Himuro and several issues of the Manga series JoJo Bizarre. for J’N’C he took photos of the ‘Pale Riders’.
die neue design-FachzeitschriFt NEU NEW ZEITSCHRIFT FÜR GESTALTUNG
RONAN & ERWAN AUF DER SCHULBANK MAKING OF: THE BOUROULLECS GO HAY
GRAPHIC + INDUSTRIAL DESIGN
START
STRATEGISCH KOMMUNIZIEREN IM WEB FRESH IDEAS FOR DIGITAL BRANDING
EMBRACE CHANGE! SAGMEISTER IST JETZT EINE FRAU
INTRODUCING: JESSICA WALSH D 15,50 EUR EU 17,00 EUR CH 22,00 CHF NR. 01
NOVEMBER / DEZEMBER 2012
4198176015501 01
the new design magazine From germany ab soFort im gut sortierten bahnhoFs- und Fachbuchhandel Themen / Topics
Making of: ronan & erwan Bouroullec / essay: erik spiekerMann Theory: gui Bonsiepe / inTerview: oliver graBes, Manfred goTTa, florian hufnagl / corporaTe design: velveT creaTive office porTraiT: Marije vogelzang / packaging design: louise fili www.grid-magazin.de
ColUMN cheeky tongue
04/2012
HiT-Bags NOT iT-Bags Text Gerlind Hector Illustration Ingo Fast
Cs gas, stun guns, panic alarms – they can all come in handy, especially if you spend your nights party-hopping. or just need to use public transport. The downside is you need to be able to carry them around, along with your keys, purse, toothbrush etc. And if you do happen to find yourself in an emergency situation, you’re more likely to end up mistakenly brandishing a deodorant in your attacker’s face after rummaging around in your handbag to no avail. But all is not lost, as Christian louboutin, Alexander Wang and co. have been mulling the problem over. studs and centimetre-long spikes are currently making an appearance on shoes and jackets as well as embellishing the ‘it’ bags of the fashion community. And by this we don’t just mean the “symbolic protection” provided by Miuccia Prada with her metalstudded handbags. economic crisis? Not here! Well-armed, defensive accessories like these are simply ultra-cool and also very useful. If you want to really knock someone out, take a healthy swing with one of these well-filled handbags and bingo, he’ll be seeing stars in no time. self-defence with style! The annoying side effect of this new trend is that many of these killer accessories now officially require a weapons license. so nerdy customs officers who don’t have the slightest clue about fashion, or fun for that matter, are fully within their rights to stop us from travelling in style. We won’t be boarding a plane to New york with louboutin’s ‘Artemis’ shoulder bag anytime soon – after all, the fact it’s named after the Greek goddess of the hunt is no coincidence. Nor can we take Alexander McQueen’s ‘Knuckle Duster Clutch’ on our next package holiday flight to Ibiza. If you don’t believe it, ask Countess von Pfuel (German nobility famous for her appearance in a coffee ad), who wasn’t allowed to take on her handbag after being stopped at Munich Airport’s baggage control. even her German order of Merit couldn’t get her off the hook; the bag was confiscated by the public prosecution and the alleged weapons smuggler is currently waiting for the case to be resolved. And only adding salt to the wound, it turned out that her Knuckle Duster Clutch wasn’t even an original, worth €1500, but merely a fake for €80! However, that doesn’t change the fact that the clutch with integrated brass knuckles and skull design is pure bad-ass chic and the ultimate hype as far as trends are concerned. Perhaps we should start educating our friendly customs officers by handing them the odd issue of Vogue or Madame on our next trips out of town. either way, we won’t let them spoil our fun. let’s arm ourselves to the teeth, as long as it stays stylish. After all, it means we’re not just perfectly equipped for nocturnal expeditions, but also for the elbow-flying, crowd-charging scrums at the next big sale.
PubliSheR B+B MeDIA CoMPANy GMBH HIlDeBRANDTsTR. 24 D 40215 DüsselDoRf TelefoN +49 (0)211 8303 0 TelefAx +49 (0)211 8303 200 INfo@JNC-NeT.De, WWW.JNC-NeT.De Managing diRectoR ANDRé WeIJDe editoR-in-chieF IloNA MARx im editoRial StaFF ANDReAs GRüTeR ag, JolIeN DeCKeRs PhotogRaPhy NADIA Del Dò, NeDA RAJABI, sHUHeI sHINe, Axel sIeBMANN, GUllIVeR THeIs, GUNNAR TUfTA illuStRation INGo fAsT, RoMAN KloNeK, loMP.De, MATTHIAs sCHARDT
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adveRtiSing diRectoR PIeRRe D’AVeTA TelefoN +49 (0)211 8303 151 P.DAVeTA@BB-MeDIACoMPANy.CoM PRice GeRMANy 9,50 eURos A, Nl, B 7,50 eURos; e, P, I 11,50 eURos sWITZeRlAND 15.80 CHf bank detailS BTV BANK foR TIRol U. VoRARlBeRG AG KTo: 772898000, BlZ: 72012300 data PRotection notice In the event that delivery is not possible under the address supplied, Deutsche Post DHl has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The subscriber can appeal against this guideline/regulation.
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ReVIeWs book lookin’
04/2012
ellen Korth utilité
Michael lange Wald As the saying goes, sometimes it’s really hard to see the forest for the trees. In the case of Michael lange’s forest, however, the risk of this is put into perspective. Here the term ‘Wald’, the German word for forest, is applied to a landscape that is so self-contained it would almost be more accurate to call it a cosmos. Not only because there is neither sky nor horizon to be seen. Delicate ferns cover the forest floor, wilted foliage floats on the surface of a pond, mist envelops the trees – although lange only took his photographs at dusk or when it was raining, the structures of the trees and leaves are particularly striking, giving the illusion of spatial depth. or is the twilight or the veil of rain perhaps precisely the reason for this? A lot of the photos, admits lange, are digitally reworked in order to reduce the colours down even more, while others are left as they were. The photographer, born in 1953, is self-taught and ‘Wald’ is his first artistic publication. for the 32 landscape format colour shots he wandered through Germany’s deciduous and coniferous forests for three years, fighting his way through thickets and undergrowth. He wanted to somewhat counter the medial image flood of loud and often violent motifs, said lange in an interview to mark the exhibition of his pictures at the ‘Horizonte Zingst’ environmental photo festival in 2012. However, the context could lead the observer to false conclusions: lange’s works do not primarily arouse associations with the acid rain endangered eco-system, which we are only too familiar with from school lessons and television reports from the 1980s. Instead, German forests appear to him as a timeless, mythically charged place – sometimes eerie, always beautiful. In his accompanying text to the photo book, Christoph schaden speaks of a subtle intensity created by the twilight, which in his view can best be compared to the experience that the German Romantics once described as ‘Waldeinsamkeit’, or the contemplative feeling of being alone in the woods. In this sense the fact that the text is preceded by a quote by the Brothers Grimm could be misleading as lange’s shots are too private to remind us of a dusky fairytale forest à la Hansel and Gretel. They are not so much symbolic, but instead speak for themselves. After all, lange, who meanwhile lives in Hamburg, harbours an especially intimate relationship with such a setting: he grew up in the odenwald. lange’s ‘Wald’ is a place of tranquility and memory at the same time. He portrays a composition of “refuges” where childhood fantasies transform matter-of-fact nature documentation into haunting visual impressions, as Christoph schaden described so succinctly. This is one opportunity for a woodland walk off the beaten track that you should definitely take up. /ew
Wald Is PUBlIsHeD By HATJe CANTZ, osTfIlDeRN AND CosTs 45 eURos.
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There are smells, noises and images that send the majority of us into a comforting, warm and fuzzy state of relaxation. The crackling of an open fire, the eucalyptus fragrance of a sauna infusion, the crunch of snow under boots, the vastness of the ocean. And the click-clack of knitting needles is another. The repetitive sound is the meditative accompaniment of a task, for which the journey is far more important than the destination. After all, the final result of the knitting may be a lot of things – but efficiency in the sense of productivity is definitely not one of them. far from it: handicrafts represent pure deceleration, and that applies to knitting just as it does to spinning, lace-making or weaving. everyone who has dedicated themselves to one of these activities indulges in idleness in an almost rebellious way. But what may merely represent a practical way to kill time whilst partaking in deep relaxation for some people – with lovely woolly hats and felt slippers as a positive by-product – is for others a hobby driven by passion. Time is therefore not only invested into the handicraft itself, but also into the research of new techniques and materials, which are subsequently tried out with devotion. for years now the Dutch artist ellen Korth has been fascinated by the enthusiasm with which people carry out their handicrafts. for her ‘Utilité’ project she travelled around her native country and, equipped with her camera and recording device, visited more than 40 women and men (!) who are passionate about their particular crafts. Whether the wool was processed with the help of knitting or embroidery needles, whether the spinning wheel, the weaving loom or felting equipment were used – often their workshops were the living room in their own homes. And, in keeping with the intimacy of the location, ellen Korth tells the story of her hosts from their perspective. The result? A veritable masterpiece of handicrafts! The spine of ‘Utilité’ is left open, to give us an insight into the binding technique. Thanks to the inside gatefold, in every chapter we are given the impression that we are actually stepping into the homes of the protagonists. large, particularly endearing portrait shots, some in black and white, some in colour, are complemented by shots of the hands at work as well as the items currently in the process of being made and, last but not least, handwritten letters – a further reminiscence of a decelerated lifestyle that seems to have long since become a thing of the past. The book comes with an audio CD featuring excerpts from interviews carried out by ellen Korth during her trip. This documentary material also makes ‘Utilité’ a must for all lovers of unique books, for all collectors of testimonies of old and new handicrafts and for all of those who like to escape from the pressures of everyday life now and again. /fw
utilité Is PUBlIsHeD By PRINTRooM, RoTTeRDAM AND CosTs 45 eURos.
Fall / Winter 2013/14
InternatIonal FashIon trade show
JANUARY 15–17, 2013
StAtioN-BeRliN luckenwalder Str. 4-6, 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com
sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl london
04/2012
sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl
lONdON Photos Axel Siebmann
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl london
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl neW yoRk
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl
NEw YOrk
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl neW yoRk
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl PaRiS
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl
Paris
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl PaRiS
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sTReeT sTyles INTeRNATIoNAl Milan
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Street StyleS InternatIonal Milan
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Street StyleS InternatIonal
MIlan
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CIty GuIde HaMburg
04/2012 IlluStratIon Roman KloneK
CIty GuIde HaMBURG Hot SpotS ShopS and More
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StReet people JIl´S heIrS
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CIty GuIde HaMburg
noRtHeRn HIGHlIGHts text Ilona maRx photoS GullIveR tHeIS
Water, water, everywhere: Germany’s largest harbour has a surface area of 7400 hectares. that makes it the second largest in europe, after Rotterdam. So it’s no wonder that this has had such a pronounced impact on life in Hamburg: centuries of tradition, a multicultural population, merchant wealth, yes, even the hedonistic Reeperbahn – so much of what makes this Hanseatic city unique is down to its status as a port ... ... a port whose history is still in the making: with what is possibly the largest site of urban regeneration in europe, and is already attracting droves of tourists in the process: work is currently being carried out on an ambitious new city quarter that will set benchmarks in Germany. not just the 500-millioneuro project of the elbe philharmonic hall, but also a large number of new homes, some of which will boast spectacular architecture, will add yet another facet to hamburg’s persona. But the 1.7 million city is incredibly diverse as it is: there are the elegant villas in Blankenese that have very little in common with the so-called sinful mile of the city’s St. pauli district – despite the fact that the rental prices in the central location next to the infamous entertainment hub are rocketing, thanks to the many newly renovated flats in the area. no wonder that the Guardian recently named St. pauli amongst its top five picks for best places to live in the world. and elsewhere the city’s image is pretty stellar too: the once alternative Schanze (a district mainly in the old town) has long since succumbed to becoming trendy with the requisite collection of record shops, boutiques and bars. hamburg’s oldest district, St. Georg, located behind the railway station, is increasingly moving away from its “problem area” reputation and turning into a hotspot for artists and creatives. the more peaceful ottensen area has the highest density of young families and cafés, and altona, offering up the first pedestrian zone in Germany in the 60s (the Grosse Bergstrasse) is now characterised by small multicultural shops and independent gastronomy – not forgetting the shores of the elbe in the south of the city. a wander through the neo-gothic Speicherstadt (warehouse district), a romantic canoeing tour on the alster canals in Winterhude or a quick visit to the port to watch one of the ocean-bound giants being loaded up with cargo? Visitors to hamburg are spoilt for choice. and that goes for the evening entertainment too. no matter where you go, music is omnipresent: from the Star Club where the Beatles played in 1962, to establishments like Grosse Freiheit 36 and uebel & Gefährlich. there’s definitely a lot going on as far as the local music scene is concerned too – starting with the former protagonists of the so-called hamburger Schule (or hamburg School – a German musical movement popular during the early 1990s) to hip hop stars like Jan delay down to the “man with the hat”, German rock musician udo lindenberg. But editor-in-chief Ilona Marx is used to having a lot going on – in fact one could say she thrives on it. together with hamburg photographer Gulliver theis she biked her way through autumnal hamburg, discovering to her relief that the water between the alster and elbe rivers doesn’t come mainly from above as is generally thought: whereas Munich gets 970 litres of rain per m² a year, hamburg only gets a modest 770. 22
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CIty GuIde HaMburg
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Water IS haMBurG’S elIxIr. BeSt enJoyed on ÖVelGÖnne BeaCh at SunSet.
Hot spots haMBurG sHopping
Kl WoHnkultur 66 Kn kuball & keMpe Kp saxifraga Kr Yb Dpt Ks WerkHaus Lk sleeping Dogs Ll entWurf Direkt Lm perle Ln anita Hass Lo plY Lp MussWessels Lr DfM Mk Herr von eDen
S 25 S 26 S 28 S 29 S 29 S 31 S 31 S 32 S 33 S 34 S 35 S 37 S 39
eat, Drink & sleep
Km Herr Max S 25 Kq MutterlanD S 28 Kt klippkroog S 31 Lq 25Hours Hotel HafencitY S 37 Ls fiscHereiHafen restaurant S 38
Lt café paris
S 38
arts & culture
Ko galerienHaus
S 27
plus cHeck tHese out Rudolf BeaufayS the BeSt VIntaGe Store In toWn. Men only! WWW.rudolF-BeauFayS.de fKK deSpIte the naMe (WhICh MeanS “nudISM” In GerMan!), they deFInItely Sell ClotheS here! WWW.Fkk-FaShIon.de BoB underStated Men’S FaShIon. WWW.BoB-Men.de StRandpeRle the InStItutIon on the BeaCh at ÖVelGÖnne. WWW.Strandperle-haMBurG.de tHe BeacH at St. paulI the CIty equIValent. WWW.StrandpaulI.de HennInGSen nICe knItWear, Made In GerMany. WWW.BIrte-hennInGSen.de café KnutH the ClaSSIC – thIS IS Where ottenSen’S loCalS Meet! WWW.CaFeknuth.CoM café ReH alpIne roManCe In altona. WWW.rehBar.de Hej papa loVInGly deSIGned CaFé WIth SCandInaVIan FlaIr. WWW.heJpapa.de BulleReI trendy reStaurant oWned By tIM Mälzer (GerMan CeleBrIty CheF). WWW.BullereI.CoM oBeRHafenKantIne Very unuSual Bar – only For thoSe Who are Steady on theIr Feet! WWW.oBerhaFenkantIne-haMBurG.de feInKunSt KRüGeR Cool IndIe Gallery. WWW.FeInkunSt-krueGer.de SenatoR WatRIn CurIoSIty Shop on MarktStraSSe. WWW.SenatorWatrIn.de GoRIlla GRIll nICe InterIor, Good Food. WWW.GorIllaGrIll.de
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City Guide Hamburg — SHOPS
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City Guide Hamburg — SHOPS
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Kl
WoHnkultur 66
Km
Herr Max
If you have a penchant for Scandinavian designer classics from the past century but aren’t too keen on the idea of second-hand upholstery, you’ve definitely come to the right place here at Wohnkultur 66: all of the interior design treasures brought together by Martina Münch and Manfred Werner at this former slaughterhouse are sourced from the production facilities of well-established northern european furniture designers and are all brand new. In view of the growing popularity of Scandinavian interior design many pieces have been reproduced or, since their market debut, mainly in the 1940s and 1960s, have been produced consistently to this day. Famous names like alvar aalto, poul kjærholm, Bruno Mathsson, ole Wanscher, hans J. Wegner, Børge Mogensen and poul henningsen will make any design lover weak at the knees. this illustrious list is headed by the dane, Finn Juhl, a pioneer of modernity, whose designs Münch and Werner distribute exclusively in Germany. his pieces, with their unusual, often curved, yet timeless shapes even have a whole shop dedicated to them on Berlin’s Brunnenstrasse, which the duo from hamburg opened three years ago. But the shop’s only open every other Saturday: the rest of the time the two passionate furniture collectors, who prefer to hand their wares over to the buyer personally, stay loyal to their hanseatic hometown.
herr Max, whose first name is Matthias, is one of the best confectioners in hamburg. his friend tim Mälzer (the German celebrity chef) agrees, admitting he doesn’t really have a talent for sweets himself, which is why he prefers to leave the sugary ideas to his colleague herr Max. the master confectioner and patissier has not only contributed several dessert recipes to one of Mälzer’s cookery books but also supports the famous television chef from time to time on his tV shows. When he isn’t in front of the camera, herr Max earns his crust in the Schanzenviertel of hamburg with his eponymous café, the interior of which, according to the young pastry chef, looks like “the outside of a wedding cake”. the building actually used to be a dairy, dating back to 1905, which his wife Julia has transformed into a small light-filled oasis with plenty of attention to detail. Between antique tiled walls the hamburg crowd can sink into the white painted, upholstered Chippendale furniture. and the delicacies on the plates look just as good as they taste: inspired by street art, comics and graphic design, herr Max makes the most incredible cakes and gateaux! his custom-made creations are in high demand amongst hamburg hipsters heading to the altar or simply celebrating a birthday.
WoHnkultur 66 SternStraSSe 66 20357 haMBurG t +49 40 436002 WWW.Wohnkultur66.de
Herr Max SChulterBlatt 12 20357 haMBurG t +49 40 69219951 WWW.herrMax.de
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City Guide Hamburg — SHOPS
04/2012
Kn
kuball & keMpe two businessmen with a discerning nature: thomas kuball and peter kempe, the owners of the concept store named after them at the alte Fischmarkt, certainly spend an inordinate amount of time and energy on their range of products. It was their common passion for all things beautiful that brought the two hamburg residents together to create a true mecca for luxury goods, focusing on fashion, furniture, tableware, perfume and books. another special interest of theirs is much neglected German porcelain and glassware. and that’s not all: they also design their very own porcelain collection for the famous Meissen porcelain manufactory. peter kempe, who has been collecting Meissen porcelain from a very early age, was able to convince the management of the highly esteemed company to invest in reviving the historic patterns and forms and giving them a new twist. kuball and kempe gained their knowledge of precious glass at the lübeck-based Carl rotter manufactory and the theresienthal glass manufactory which, despite the threat of bankruptcy, they managed to breathe new life into with their own products. according to the two hamburg locals, a renaissance of these handmade objects d’art is long overdue. the fact that they could easily cost several hundred euros, like a little cup and saucer from the reissued Ming dragon series, is just a minor factor for their well-heeled clientele. kuball & keMpe alter FISChMarkt 11 20457 haMBurG t +49 40 30382200
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galerienHaus aDMiralitätsstrasse 71 Good news for collectors of modern art: on the admiralitätsstrasse you’ll find a real gem of the hamburg art scene that will save you looking any further. no.71 houses more than half a dozen top-notch galleries including Mathias Güntner’s, who specialises in contemporary art. Minimal art and intervention in public spaces are special interests of his. his colleague diane kruse, who is based in the rear building, doesn’t seem to fit any pigeonhole: sculptures, painting, photography installation – the artists she represents express themselves through all kinds of media. It gets more specific in the renowned Sfeir-Semler gallery, which has a prime position in the front house. lebanese-born art expert andrée Sfeir-Semler has been in the business for the past 30 years and concentrates on conceptual art, counting illustrious galleries like the MoMa and the tate Modern amongst her clients. a clear emphasis is placed on artists from arabic countries, and she consciously seeks to encourage political discourse. her focus leads her not only to the usual art fairs in london, new york and Basel, but also to the art shows of abu dhabi and dubai. galerienHaus adMIralItätSStraSSe 71 20459 haMBurG MathIaS Güntner t +49 40 41919590 WWW.MathIaSGuentner.CoM dIane kruSe t +49 40 52599381 WWW.dIanekruSe.CoM galerie sfeir-seMler t +49 40 37519940 WWW.SFeIr-SeMler.CoM
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Saxifraga isn’t just the prettiest florist’s in town. It even leaves experienced bouquet-lovers lost for words. the overpowering explosion of colours, combined with the symphony of scents, are enough to rob you of your senses. luckily, in the midst of this psychedelic experience there is only one side-effect: the urgent desire to take a little piece of this magnificent opulence home with you. Carola Wineberger, whose happy countenance seems to mirror her ocean of blossoming nature (is she so happy because she is surrounded by flowers, or is the flowering jungle around her a direct product of her happiness?), seems to be the most contented person in the karo district. “22 years ago, when I opened the shop, the Marktstrasse around the corner wasn’t particularly busy, and my taste in floral arrangements wasn’t really in step with the fashion of the time,” the florist explains. Both these factors have fundamentally changed: the Marktstrasse is now a popular shopping mile for indie fashion lovers, and the unconventional, brightly-coloured bouquets that Carola ties together effortlessly to make them look like perfectly imperfect bunches picked by hand in some magical nonexistent paradisiacal meadow, sell like hotcakes. yes, luck is part of the recipe – and a good nose for the right scents!
Mutterland (motherland) is a place for the good things in life. and most of them bear – no surprises there – the label ‘Made in Germany’. the aim of the enthusiastic owner Jan Schawe is to create a modern corner shop for young people with a focus on regional and typical German produce. he spent two years putting together a selection of goods from over 200 producers. the pre-conditions of being selected for his assortment of items are traditional production methods, ideally according to organic principles. So you’ll find plenty of rare delicacies at Mutterland. Schawe offers a whole raft of local comestibles starting off with home-made jams and yummy honey, as well as the finest chocolates, handmade, old-fashioned boiled sweets down to spirits from passionate schnapps-makers, their own lines in tea and coffee and dairy products from the organic dairy. he also treats his suppliers as equals, ensuring fair pay and support. It’s literally just like being at mum’s: salads and sandwiches, cake, sweets, soups and traditional home cooking to eat in, or take away, all made fresh following traditional recipes. and the proximity to hamburg’s main railway station is very handy: Mutterland is the perfect place to stock up on delicious supplies for your journey or to buy lovingly wrapped gifts.
saxifraga GlaShüttenStraSSe 100 20357 haMBurG t +49 40 437355 WWW.SaxIFraGa.CC
MutterlanD ernSt-MerCk-StraSSe 9 20099 haMBurG t +49 40 28407978 WWW.Mutterland.de
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Yb Dpt apart from a few exceptions, the fashion offer on Marktstrasse is pretty homogenous and consists mainly of independent labels selling more or less professionally produced collections. the clientele in the karo quarter, truly a nation unto itself, loves this individualistic, humorous, slightly alternative style. But a turnaround is in sight: since the opening of yB dpt four years ago an avant-garde breeze has been blowing through the well-known street. the shop, which already stands out from the crowd thanks to its minimalist interior, also differentiates itself with its stock. With labels like Wood Wood, norse projects, airbag Craftworks, les racines du Ciel, Soulland, hien le and reality Studio, the owners, radek Sadowski and alexandre Briatore, are certainly proving their fashion know-how. With bags by atem, a new hamburg label, and accessories by Comme des Garçons, the whole gamut is run from newcomer to top seller. on the search for fresh names Sadowski and Briatore never tire of wandering international trade fairs like Capsule, Who’s next, Seek, tranoï and pitti uomo. and in keeping with this adventurous spirit yB department is given a brand new look twice every year. after each redesign they launch a new label that is specially promoted during the following six months – which, to the joy of all non-hamburg residents, is also now available from the yB dpt online shop. Yb Dpt MarktStraSSe 117 20357 haMBurG t +49 40 42900260 WWW.yBdpt.CoM
even if the name would initially suggest German products are stocked here, a large proportion of the fashion on sale in the rustic industrial style ambience of the Werkhaus comes from Scandinavia. From a for acne to W for Won hundred, their portfolio also stretches to other big names like Fifth avenue Shoe repair, designers remix, J.lindeberg and tiger of Sweden, brands that have also contributed to the current fashion dominance of the nordic countries. But the rest of europe is also represented: damir doma for example, the young Croatian talent who, after stops in Germany and antwerp, has made the leap to paris. also based in France: a.p.C. and Surface to air, one of which is known for its minimalism and the other for their flamboyant prints and eye-catching shoes. thomas hansen, the owner of Werkhaus, also has a penchant for a few German labels, like lala Berlin for example, flanked by adidas originals and the puma special editions by hussein Chalayan and alexander Mcqueen. With that much fashionable expertise they can afford to do without experiments in the furnishings department: both Werkhaus branches, the one near the harbour, the other located in St. Georg, are characterised by their consistently lowkey interior design. robust wood, reminiscent of workbenches, and industrial-style tubular steel constructions set accents but allow the fashion to take centre stage. the famous Scandinavian understatement is tangible in every room. and it’s hardly surprising: hansen is a dane after all. WerkHaus lanGe reIhe 57-59 20099 haMBurG t +49 40 28006848 GroSSe elBStraSSe 146 22767 haMBurG t +49 40 38616122 WWW.WerkhauS-FaShIon.de
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klippkroog upon entering this bistro-restaurant in altona’s old town it won’t come as much of a surprise to hear that the previous job of owner anne Behm was ensuring “continuity” in films: her eye for detail must be in the blood. “I worked in gastronomy for the first time at 15. It had always been my dream to design and run a restaurant exactly how I wanted,” the owner of klippkroog explains. “everyone thought I was crazy when I opened my restaurant here, an area that wasn’t particularly popular 18 months ago.” altona’s old town, which doesn’t boast the same opulent historic buildings as neighbouring ottensen, wasn’t exactly ‘happening’ at the time. But interest in the area grew, and no doubt klippkroog has a lot to do with that. Behm certainly feels at home in the area. perfection bores her. So it’s no surprise that she used nothing but recycled building materials in her bistro-restaurant: industrial charm meets old reclaimed timbers – the idea works perfectly. and things aren’t done by halves in the kitchen either. kitchen chef Ilja knabe only works with entire animals. the meat is even hung on the premises. not all suppliers have organic certification but Behm is a bit sceptical about certification systems anyway. She prefers to buy from local farmers she knows personally and who have been breeding livestock for generations. klippkroog GroSSe BerGStraSSe 255 22767 haMBurG t +49 40 57244368 WWW.klIppkrooG.de
they certainly don’t let any sleeping dogs lie here! the Sleeping dogs concept store, located on the first floor of Stilwerk, has a lot more to offer than one would expect at first glance. as well as furniture and interior products by Moroso, Ingo Maurer, established & Sons, leise, laurence Brabant, Muuto and Blohmgumm the owners also sell fashion by a.F. Vandevorst, lutz and philippa lindenthal, flanked by a small but impressive selection of jewellery, shoes and bags. But that’s not all. they even have something abstract for sale: consultancy for large and small refurbishments is the speciality of owner Carmen Gloger. Whether it is the redesign of commercial spaces or private rooms, the interior design fan simply loves to immerse herself in the world of her customers and steps up to the challenge with precision, humour and a passion for detail. Sleeping dogs also offers its own small line of furniture, produced in cooperation with a growing network of craftsmen. thanks to this direct line to the manufacturers, custom-made items are no problem. the portfolio currently includes an oak table with houndstooth-shaped cut-outs and a golden avant-garde bed with the same design.
In keeping with a post-capitalist world, the head of entwurf direkt, per Schumann, has chosen not to concentrate on making new products for his furniture line and instead focuses on re-use and recycling. the basis for his designs, mostly chests of drawers and cupboards, are old reclaimed drawers. the former art student simply picks original drawers from his large collection and then designs the matching corpus around it. using varnished pinewood, the unique pieces are then made to measure at the local carpenters. the dressers are available from 1200 euros, but some more elaborate pieces can cost up to 2800 euros. and custom-made requests aren’t a problem due to the production methods. So the customer can even bring along their own nostalgiainducing drawers full of memories if they want. as the name of the shop suggests, the lines of communication between customer, designer and producer are open and uncomplicated, resulting in endless possibilities. Schumann has even had whole kitchen units commissioned according to this principle. his shop, which also serves as showroom for the unconventional furniture, is located in a former corner shop in ottensen. “art grocer” he calls himself jokingly, as his furniture is decorated by all kinds of pretty and humorous objects. and of course they are all one-off pieces too!
sleeping Dogs GroSSe elBStraSSe 68 22767 haMBurG t +49 40 38614044 WWW.SleepInGdoGS.de
entWurf Direkt eulenStraSSe 81 22765 haMBurG t +49 40 39805789 WWW.entWurF-dIrekt.de
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perle perle (pearl) is a word used by the hanseats for lots of things that are close to their hearts. From their loved ones, to their cleaning lady to their favourite bar on the elbe beach, the spectrum covers objects and people alike. the fact that this affectionate title also has a different connotation for a large portion of the female population in hamburg is down to Sabine Brandt and Simona Fischer. the secret of the success behind their labyrinthine shop tucked away on Weidenallee is an unmistakeable sixth sense where the latest fashion trends are concerned, paired with a good eye when it comes to buying in moderately priced but well-designed interior design items. like the pearl in the oyster the two business partners started off small and grew bit by bit. their empire now stretches over six salesrooms and a hallway. and there’s plenty to discover: fashion by French label a.p.C. for example or underwear by Schiesser. retro wallpaper, vases and ceramics, cosmetics, stationery – and ever since the owners have welcomed their own offspring to the world, also kids clothing. But perle isn’t purely a woman’s thing. “We have plenty of men come in here too,” grins Sabine Brandt. “But mostly because they are desperate for a present for – that’s right – their very own pearl!” perle WeIdenallee 23 20357 haMBurG t +49 40 28781227 WWW.perle-Shop.de
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anita Hass thomas i punkt, Feldenkirchen, petra teufel and anita hass are the hamburg quartet when it comes to high fashion. Whilst the first three have top locations in the inner city, anita hass’s fashion universe has settled in the affluent district of eppendorf. three shops on eppendorf’s landstrasse are now part of the hass empire. It all started in 1970 with the middle shop at no.60, where you’ll now mainly find collections by Céline, Chloé, yves Saint laurent, Moschino, alaïa and Stella McCartney. In the shop to the left there are styles more suited to a younger clientele, in a minimalist setting with the latest looks by acne, Carven, Isabel Marant étoile, zadig & Voltaire, See by Chloé, Woolrich, Moncler and Current/elliott. the third of the bunch is the accessory shop to the right where you’ll find must-have bags and shoes by Sergio rossi, yves Saint laurent, acne, Stella McCartney, Céline and Chloé. If “Sex and the City” character Carrie Bradshaw came to hamburg, this would definitely be her first port of call. But luckily you no longer have to fly in by private jet to buy such clothing: the online shop is richly stocked with all the goodies found here. For fashion aficionados from all over Germany this is a real treasure trove for unusual design. anita Hass eppendorFer landStraSSe 60 20249 haMBurG t +49 40 465909 WWW.anItahaSS.de
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plY ply stands for plywood, pure and simple. david einsiedler, a printer by trade who went on to study communications and marketing, and his wife Joke rasch, a self-employed graphic designer, have chosen the sheer indestructible plywood, which used to be the material of choice for furniture making in the past, as the namesake for their store project. In a former vehicle depot in ottensen the couple have created a new home with their collection of vintage pieces, industrial design and an impressive display of lighting and décor from the 1920s to the 1960s. the combination of patina and first-rate technology is what all of the objects have in common – the result of great care and meticulous restoration work. the industrially-used pieces are handpicked design classics. Fitting right in with their career backgrounds the duo also runs a fully functional small printing workshop where rasch creates limited runs of art prints and posters on an old korrex machine dating back to the 1950s. More often than not these will pop up again in some restaurant of shop, as the brains behind ply act as décor and lighting consultants for companies, shops and cafés, fitting them with their vintage objects and modern designs. their customers include the tastefully designed alternative trade fair Capsule, which takes place during Berlin Fashion Week. plY kleIne raInStraSSe 44 a 22765 haMBurG t +49 40 38661020 WWW.ply.de
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Musswessels Kathrin Musswessels has certainly invested a substantial amount of time to get where she is today. At a young age she made the decision to tread in the footsteps of her grandmother, a ladies’ tailor whose skilled sewing she admired. After studying fashion design in Hamburg and Madrid, Musswessels worked in the design department at Marc Aurel for two years before managing one of Herr von Eden’s stores. A clever move, which enabled her to garner experience both in sales and design. In December 2009 her big moment came: Musswessels opened her own shop on Clemens-Schulz-Strasse. At first she only sold vintage clothing, but her own collection soon followed. Very zeitgeisty, sophisticated, artistic and elegant is how the designer describes her clientele. In the shop there is an integrated open atelier. This is where the 33-year-old designs her collections – all of them pieces she would wear herself – and this is where her three seamstresses finish the prototypes. In contrast to the fashion industry, where collections are already finished a year in advance, Musswessels collections are made just-in-time – a big advantage, as she is able to react much more flexibly to the market. Happy that her dream is working, the designer is taking the next step and cooperating with an agent who will be helping increase her distribution network. We’re keeping our fingers crossed! Musswessels ClEMEnS-SCHulTz-STrASSE 29 20359 HAMburg T +49 176 32118968 WWW.MuSSWESSElS.blogSpoT.DE
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25hours hotel haFencity HafenCity (harbour city) is still the biggest building site in Europe. but there are already clues to just how good this part of town is going to look in the future. no-one really knows when the area will be completed but one thing is for sure: with its location, just a stone’s throw away from the Elbe philharmonic Hall, 25hours will soon be the centrepiece of the HafenCity. Even now the charming and beautifully detailed concept, tailored around the topic of maritime culture is exercising its magnetism on a great number of visitors – it doesn’t seem to be putting anyone off that the infrastructure in the area is still rudimentary to say the least. After all, with the ‘Two Wheels good’ city bikes you can cycle to the fish market, the portuguese quarter, the Jungfernstieg or the Deichtorhallen in no time at all. 170 ‘Kojen’ (bunks) and ‘Kajüten’ (cabins), all kitted out in maritime interior décor come together to form a kind of communal sailors’ home. And 25hours never feels anonymous, which has a lot to do with the crew who rush around the house in breton-striped T-shirts and seem to get plenty of enjoyment out of anticipating every wish of their countless guests. Also hard to beat: the view from the ‘Hafensauna’, a refurbished Hapag-lloyd container hoisted onto the roof of the house. Taking into account the fantastic breakfast buffet, the well-stocked ‘Mare’ kiosk, the free rental Mini, the cool Vinyl room, the Apple internet workstation with Skype cabin and the delicious food of the in-house restaurant ‘Heimat’, this place is pretty impossible to top for a young design-orientated clientele. 25hours hotel haFencity ÜbErSEEAllEE 5 20457 HAMburg T +49 40 2577770 WWW.25HourS-HoTElS.CoM
getting there by detour: as a student, Dörte F. Meyer was dedicated to art. Today her own fashion label bears her initials. And not only that: in 1993 she opened her own store and last year she added a branch in ottensen. Meyer’s magic formula? Her fashion orientates itself on the realities of the modern woman, whereby on the one hand she plays with androgyny and on the other she cites fashion styles from female icons. The result: the designs are classic without being overly traditional. “because we don’t have a distribution network, we aren’t hamstrung by the logistics of it all, so we aren’t tied to any collection dates,” is how Dörte F. Meyer explains her concept. Her own personal archive serves as the basis of every collection. There are a whole raft of patterns, which, when applied to different materials, change their appearance with the seasons. Women’s figures allow for a lot more variation in fashion than men’s bodies,” says the designer. “We take existing patterns and vary them according to the figures. Customers can also give us their measurements.” She not only loves experimenting with proportions and shapes but also with colour, as you can see from her stores. In addition to her own label, Meyer also sells other items: clothes from Aiayu for example, a fair trade lama wool knitwear collection for which a defunct bolivian manufacturing site was revived, not to mention a whole village along with it. She also stocks items by the brazilian alpaca wool label parati, whose sense of colour correlates with Meyer’s own. And she loves the label Humanoid from the netherlands because of their wonderful fabrics. In reminiscence of her time as an artist, Meyer also offers a costume design service for film, theatre and advertising. DFM STubbEnHuK 38 20459 HAMburg T +49 40 3742712 bAHrEnFElDEr STrASSE 150 22765 HAMburg T +49 40 18005920 WWW.DFM-HAMburg.DE
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FischereihaFen restaurant At 626 nautical river kilometres, at the level of the fish market, the shore of the Elbe is literally plastered with restaurants. The traditional fishing harbour restaurant, however, is head and shoulders above the rest. After all it can look back on over 30 years of history, and has played host to more stars and starlets than any other restaurant in the city. Whether lady Diana, plácido Domingo, Sean Connery, boris becker or Franz beckenbauer – they’ve all been here. The reason is the sleight of hand of head chef Jens Klunker and his colleague Michael Scherer: anything that feels at home in seawater will be transformed by their skilled cooking. The spectrum of their skills ranges from labskaus (or lobscouse, a northern german speciality usually made of minced meat, onions and mashed potatoes) with fried egg and beetroot, to sweet and sour eel soup with prunes or excellent fish dishes like the filet of north Sea turbot on snow pea purée with lobster espuma, as well as covering all the bases with oriental dim sum and tempura creations, sashimi and sushi. The menu is rounded off with exquisite oysters, also popular with the clientele at the oyster bar, run by Dirk Kowalke, the son and heir of the former restaurant’s owner rüdiger Kowalke. And richard ‘ricci’ Chaniewski, a locally renowned bartender, shakes and stirs the best cocktails. Even James bond actor pierce brosnan was more than satisfied with ricci’s Martini concoctions. And if you drop by the Fischereihafen restaurant when the weather is good you can even enjoy the seafood on the terrace overlooking the river Elbe. FischereihaFen restaurant groSSE ElbSTrASSE 143 22767 HAMburg T +49 40 381816 WWW.FISCHErEIHAFEnrESTAurAnT.DE
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caFé Paris Although Hamburg’s residents are usually very patriotic when it comes to their hometown, Café paris with its French flair is definitely an exception to the rule, having become one of the most popular locations in town. only a few hundred metres away from Hamburg’s historic town hall, an imposing old slaughterhouse dating back to 1882 was renovated in parisian coffeehouse style in 2000. Just like its French counterparts, it is crammed with small bistro tables. Wonderful art nouveau tiles decorated with images from Hamburg’s maritime tradition, merchant trading, industry and agriculture cover the ceiling. The salon, a former tobacco shop, extends the café on the ground floor whilst the bel étage (the first floor) offers additional seating. Which is much needed, as the café offers a whole lot more than just excellent coffee and fresh croissants: signature dishes of the house are ‘tartare’ in varying forms, and ‘moules frites’, mussels steamed in a delicious vegetable stock and served with crunchy chips. For lovers of more exotic fare the kitchen also offers potato-pumpkin curry with mango chutney and naan bread. but back to the savoir-vivre: vis-à-vis the house you’ll also find ‘le Magasin’, a mini-department store for French specialities, as well as the lovely and popular ‘le lion’ bar, both also run by the Café paris owners. caFé Paris rATHAuSSTrASSE 4 20095 HAMburg T +49 40 32527777 WWW.CAFEpArIS.nET
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herr von eDen bent Angelo Jensen, alias Herr von Eden, is a phenomenon. At the tender age of 21 the self-made man opened his first shop on Hamburg’s Marktstrasse. A risky enterprise, especially in the heart of Hamburg’s indie district, and especially when you’re offering classic men’s shirts and even three-piece suits. but he managed to pull the daring stunt off: in the following years Herr von Eden went on to open branches in berlin and Cologne. He even launched a ladies’ collection. now Jensen is 35 and, since last year, the proud owner of his own tailoring atelier. “My clientele has grown older since I started out,” he explains when talking about his need for expansion. “nowadays 58-year-old businessmen will come to us, and they don’t always fit into the normal sizes.” It was a lucky coincidence that the perfect location came up directly under their office buildings at the grossneumarkt. “The atelier is like a laboratory and rehearsal room, and is a great luxury for me.” Together with a tailor and a production manager Jensen not only fits suits here; the trio also designs limited series and customised orders. but that is only the beginning for the smart suit fetishist. The Herr von Eden men’s line will be available for wholesale for the first time from January 2013. A show is planned for the launch at Herr von Eden’s berlin store during berlin Fashion Week. A must for all fans of the stylish three-piece suit. atelier herr von eDen groSSnEuMArKT 22 20459 HAMburg T +49 40 18017416 WWW.HErrVonEDEn.CoM
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Joanna 26, fashion design student
Karola 29, fashion design student
Daniel 27, fashion designer
oVErAll Secondhand SHoES Fornarina
ouTFIT Vintage
ouTFIT Herr von Eden SHoES Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
I study in Antwerp where fashion is a bit wilder than it is here in Hamburg. That suits me more.
Hamburg isn’t much of a fashion city. That’s why the urban landscape didn’t really inspire me much during my studies at the fashion campus on Armgartstrasse.
St. Pauli is a really colourful mix. Even if you’re wearing a suit, no one gives you funny looks.
Braima 66, designer for BSB & stylist
Bent 35, designer for Herr von Eden
hanneli 24, model
ouTFIT BSB
SHIrT, TrouSErS, JEWEllEry & SHoES Herr von Eden gIlET Rick Owens bElT Sibilla Pavenstedt SCArF from India
SuIT & Top FKK booTS from the market
I dress from head to toe in my own designs. That’s still what I like best!
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Hamburg is consistent. The people here are trying to follow in the footsteps of Jil Sander.
I love the ‘casual cool’ in Hamburg. People dress casual at the same time as being sexy!
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JIl’s heIrs pHoToS Gulliver Theis
In Hamburg people like it simple – that’s one thing the young Hanseats all agree on. For some locals the fashion here may appear somewhat uninspired, but visitors to the city often admire the ‘casual cool’ as pretty sexy. After all, understatement and good style stand every urbanite in good stead. let’s leave it to the out-of-towners to embarrass themselves.
sandra 31, co-owner of Bloom
thomas 42, manager of an event agency
T-SHIrT H&M JuMpEr By Malene Birger TrouSErS Zara SCArF Becksöndergaard bAg Hoss Intropia
SuIT Drykorn SHIrT Boss TrouSErS H&M bElT Dsquared SHoES Leo glASSES Dolce & Gabbana HAT Stetson nECKlACE Emporio Armani
I’d prefer it if Hamburg locals dressed a little bit more individually.
In a way Hamburg is like a large village, but it has a good mix of styles!
giorgia 28, isabel 26, both models
Jessica 32, manager at Angelo’s
Per 27, sales manager
JACKET Armani Jeans TrouSErS Anis JuMpEr Giorgio Armani SCArF Lanvin SHoES Miu Miu bAg Alexander Wang
blouSE H&M TrouSErS Please SHoES Chie Mihara brACElET DKNY nECKlACES Alles aus Liebe by Milla K. & flea market
SHIrT Libertine-Libertine JuMpEr & blAzEr Selected Homme TrouSErS Jack & Jones SHoES from a market in Portugal glASSES Asos
JuMpEr, SCArF & booTS from the market JEAnS Armani Jeans bAg Chanel
Combining expensive labels with vintage is really on the increase in Hamburg.
It’s my first time in Hamburg and I think it’s great! But I haven’t formed an opinion about the local take on fashion yet.
People in Hamburg dress comfortably: we like that!
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LO KO M OT I V VÆ R K S T E D E T, B U I L D I N G O BV 0 3 7 OT TO B U S S E S V E J 5 A , 24 5 0 CO P E N H AG E N S V W W W.C P H V I S I O N . D K
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hAs The spArk fizzled OuT fOr reTAil? FASHIon AnD rETAIl
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The AGe Of AquArius shAbd, nEW yorK
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NO biz like shOwbiz replAy
deNim by NAme, deNim by NATure DEnIM WEAVErS SpECIAl
TArpOlOGy freiTAG, zurICH
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has the spark FIzzled out For retaIl? Text fredericke winkler Illustration lomp.de
According to a report from the federal Association of the German Textile retail Trade, the industry is concluding the first half of the financial year of 2012 with zero profit. The reason behind this is the healthy turnover growth of the top dogs, which is cushioning the blow of the comparatively poor business of the independent retailers. so is it true? does the German consumer prefer convenient consumption along with a homogenous product palette? At the end of the day, is our clothing style perhaps directly linked to the algorithms that define the merchandise information system? of course not. but it seems that in view of the financial crisis and the boom in online retailing the misconception that playing it safe and acting rationally offers a high degree of security has entrenched itself in the minds of the small-scale retailers. but what they are not taking into consideration: if the customer has a choice between boredom and well-stocked boredom, he will opt for the latter. As soon as the boutiques start concentrating on their core business again, namely setting stylistic accents and granting new trends access to the market, the chances that the financial side of things will improve increases too. This is a call to the shop owners to have more guts and confidence in their own skills. fAshiON – A prOducT beTweeN GeNius ANd TriviAliTy Admittedly, selling discerning fashion on a small scale is a tough business. After all, the desirability of a garment not only depends on measurable factors like workmanship and fabric quality, but also on subjective factors like style or social relevance. usually customers appear to need only a pair of trousers or a warm coat. but essentially they are looking for a garment that corresponds to their emotions, positively influences their self-perception and supports their interactive performance. Status, peer group, sexual appeal, respectability or rebellion – just a few examples on the long list of possible statements of an outfit, the semantics of which varies depending on the social background. Those who speak the language of fashion can expect social acknowledgement. In case of doubt, vestimentary dyslexia opens oneself up to ridicule. In his essay ‘A la mode: on the social psychology of fashion’, published in 1982, the sociologist rené König speaks of a social reward system between the actor and the spectator on the stage of fashion. And this system is too complex for retailers to be able to coordinate all the success parameters during the ordering process. Another uncertainty: the designer who, starting with fabric, colour or form, is aiming to reinvent the body and sometimes even mankind. His genius is frequently poised on the cusp between meaningful innovation and ridiculous irrelevance – and the buyer is balancing with him. After all, it is the mid-sized retailers in particular who usually invest in a comparatively small number of brands. If there is a black sheep amongst them, delivering poor quality goods or simply not proving popular with customers, this can have disastrous consequences for the shop, the overhead costs of which will be eating up most of the retail margin anyway. It is a widespread fallacy amongst designers to think that retailers are getting a good deal with their fashion, thanks to high markups. In reality, ordering goods is a high-risk task for most independent retailers: there’s the
higher power of the weather, the price-slashing competitor from next door, and lord only knows if the stock will be delivered on time. hOw much AcNe cAN GermANy TAke? of course one tries to root out as many variables as possible ahead of time. Is there reason to suspect that the quality of the goods from a supplier, in terms of the workmanship, the fabric or the sizes, cannot be guaranteed? Will he be able to guarantee delivery dates? Will he still be around next season? What are the chances that he won’t belong to the approximately 90 percent of start-up fashion labels that fold in their first three to six seasons? These are all questions the retailer asks themselves – and rightly so. After all, those who subject themselves to the whims of fashion shouldn’t have to subject themselves to structural whims too. but does that mean the customer has to forgo the distinctiveness of their own style? Why do many retail stores stock a significantly similar selection of goods, as if all buyers had attended the very same trend seminar? Does it absolutely always have to be Acne? Do the so-called signature stores really have to smell of Molecule perfume? How much Isabel Marant can germany take? Currently the german retailers seem to be paralysed by the fear of dead stock on the one hand and missing out on the next ‘it’ label, on the other, one of my colleagues recently told me. And Axel Augustin, managing director of the Federal Association of german Textile retail Trade, suggests that the homogenisation of the market due to the focus on a decreasing number of brands is not only an issue for independent retailers. Apparently, for about a year now, it has been a trend that the whole industry should be taking notice of. one more reason for the small-scale retailers to concentrate on preserving their unique selling points – and to do it with passion. AdvANced lessONs iN seducTiON but even if – at an optimistic estimate – 50 percent of retailers order new labels because they are passionate about them, there still remains the 50 percent who do it because they are hoping for a good profit. So they enter into a marriage of convenience – and this is exactly where the sixty-four thousand dollar question needs to be asked: is it naive to want to marry for love when it comes to business? We might often want to answer yes, but in the fashion business there are certain rules to follow. At the end of the day there are two: fashion can be sold either by means of the price or by means of emotion. As chain stores, online shops and department stores are now getting better at pricing, all that remains for independent retailers is the emotional tack. Emotion meets rationale at the cash till with the retailer playing host. but how does one turn good style into hard cash? “Shopping, one of our most popular pastimes, is a summons to the retailers to seduce us,” is the response of Martina Kühne, Senior researcher at the gottlieb Duttweiler Institute in zurich, to this question. According to the recently published study ‘Verführung für Fortgeschrittene’ (Advanced lessons in Seduction), the key to success in retail lies in the redefinition of the salesperson as seducer. “The first object of desire is the consumer, the customer – in the future everything will begin with this understanding. If the retailer understands and 45
ESSAy Fashion anD retail
treats his potential customers as such then his product can also become the object of desire for the buyer as a result,” explains Kühne. So woe betide anyone who isn’t aware of the most inner wishes of their customers – or anyone who doesn’t authentically empathise with them! As the seducer “does not tempt with over-the-top promises, but impresses with competent consultation and genuine charm,” Kühne continues.
The philosopher peter Sloterdijk sees it as the principal task of the salesperson to recognise and encourage the inclinations of their customers so they eventually lead to decisions. In order to guarantee this, we need the relevant stage settings and the right actor on the right stage, said Sloterdijk in an interview with peter paul polte in the run-up to the Alpbach International retail Forum last october. reTAil As A plAy ON The sTAGe In this context the philosopher speaks of a “theatre of consumerism” – for me this is a catalyst to put the stage directions down onto paper for a threeact show: First act: the retailer must know their current and potential customers in order to be able to select the brands, and within the brands, the models, according to their needs and preferences. Second act: these brands must result in a consistent portfolio, in which every designer has their own designated role, without undermining the other. Third act: the retailer must be familiar with their location, their city, their scene and their tourists. Here they have to stage themselves in the best possible way. The retailer plays the lead on his own stage set, interweaving the stories of his brands to form a plot so gripping that no mere mortal could resist. What he is actually selling though, is the idea that if the customers buy this or wear that, they will attract their own fan club of admirers. Sound almost like a cult to you? neurologists have actually found out that the consumerism of particularly coveted products stimulates the part of the brain that is also active when we exercise our faith. So it’s not without reason that marketing departments reach into exactly this box of tricks. or why else would all the stores and shopping centres resemble temples or altars to consumption, with charismatic prophets in the guise of advertising celebrities and visionary designers? Certainly, fashion presents itself as something that will define us, our identity, because as well as contributing to the outside of a person, at the same time it is the front cover of what’s inside – according to a persian proverb. If you want to find out more about this phenomenon, have a read of the ‘Spiegel’ article ‘Weltreligion Shoppen’ (Shopping, A World religion), for which Thomas Tuma and Martin u. Müller won third place in the 2011 Helmut Schmidt Journalist prize. This much is for sure: just like in a religion, when selling a certain style the person you are convincing has to be convinced of its content and values first. And if the salesperson is ablaze with passion for their assortment, they will sense the inner desire to convey this joyful message to the rest of the world. If there is no desire, you have chosen either the wrong fashion or the wrong stage setting – or should give up the selling profession altogether.
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ligent design, condensed pr work and, last but not least, a fan community. Which takes us back to the usual suspects: Martin Margiela, Isabel Marant, Acne or – to name a label that has swallowed up the retail trade with its own brand– Hollister. retailers are squabbling amongst each other to stock these labels as apparently there’s a lot of money to be made with them. So does the reason for the permanently same window displays also not have a little to do with the fact that the number of brands available and which fulfil the requirements of the shops in terms of style, quality and service, isn’t quite as big as we think? And, looking at things from another perspective: doesn’t the statement by the businesswoman from berlin-Charlottenburg also resonate a little frustration about the expectations of the brands? Don’t minimum order volumes and payment arrangements, which sometimes require a part-payment even before delivery, often stand in the way of a cooperation that is satisfactory for both parties? And let’s not forget: it’s the buyer who dashes from showroom to tradeshow during the order season. It is not rare for them to have to pay for the dispatch of the goods themselves. And they are left covering the costs of slow-selling stock. However much dedication they put in, they won’t always get the contract for a brand. It is often one of their colleagues promising the bigger order volume who gets the goods and makes the profit. owners of smaller shops will often be putting in the hours themselves, 24/7, that’s if they don’t have the rare luck of finding a good and reliable sales assistant. As a one-man show they are responsible for the visual merchandising, doing the books and of course taking care of the buying. Many of them come from different backgrounds, from professions that don’t necessarily have anything to do with business management. The decision to set up their own fashion store is often made with gut instinct – from their own inner drive to surround themselves with beautiful things and to share their own take on style with others. Their enthusiasm is the motor for their business. Speaking of which: does Martina Kühne not speak of desire as an indicator of good selling? And that’s where we come full circle: the independent retailer has the best prerequisites to stage the sale and seduce the customer using every trick in the book. They only have to believe in themselves – and choose the right fashion. And ‘right’ here can only mean that the fashion comes from reliable and loyal partners. So I am advocating for retailers to have more self-confidence, whilst also calling for all labels to look after and value their customers. Division of labour should be the name of the game: after all, successful selling is all about cooperation between designers, distributors and retailers.
TOGeTher we Are less AlONe but in this staging let’s not forget the relevance of the product. After all, it is the goods that play the leading roles in the play we call retail. If it is the role of the retailer to sell the goods with their best skills, it is the task of the fashion designer to provide aesthetic and handcrafted work of a high quality. “Sorry, but I have decided to only order labels that also do something for me.” As terse as this statement by the owner of a concept store in berlinCharlottenburg may sound – it actually reflects a whole lot of industry experience. now it’s down to the individual retailers to provide the passion. It is also the task of the fashion designers to provide their buyers with an instrument with which they can seduce the consumers: good stories, intel46
fredericke wiNkler IS quAlIFIED FASHIon DESIgnEr AnD TEACHES MArKETIng AnD SoCIology AT THE ESMoD InTErnATIonAl unIVErSITy oF FASHIon In bErlIn. WITH HEr AgEnCy bEyonD bErlIn SHE DEVElopS nEW MArKETIng STrATEgIES AT THE InTErFACE oF ETHICS AnD AESTHETICS.
PREMIERE 15 –17 January 2013
THE NEW MARKETPLACE IN EUROPE INTERNATIONAL FASHION FAIR www.panorama-berlin.com
brAnD FEATurES Peter Jensen, lonDon
04/2012
peter Jensen
the Queen Is amused Text Ilona Marx
knitwear featuring animal motifs, hats with ears and now oversized handbags: everyone knows that peter Jensen has a quirky sense of humour. he also has plenty of taste, as demonstrated by the skilfully simple silhouettes with which the british designer impresses his discerning, grown-up clientele. And the best proof of it is the fact that Jensen was recently a dinner guest of the queen. born and raised in Denmark, at an early age he found his way to london after being accepted on a degree course at the renowned london Central Saint Martins College. In 1999 peter Jensen graduated with distinction before launching his own label two years later – initially with a menswear collection, quickly followed by a women’s line. nowadays the label is represented in over one hundred top stores worldwide, including opening Ceremony in new york, l.A. and Tokyo as well as Dover Street Market in london. He has cooperated with british labels like Topshop and Fred perry as well as with Danish colleagues like Weekday. but despite living in voluntary exile on the island, Jensen has by no means disowned his Scandinavian roots. J’n’C editor-in-chief Ilona Marx met the designer at Copenhagen Fashion Week. He had just finished presenting his womenswear collection for spring/ summer 2013 as part of the ‘gallery’ shows. The clothes are dedicated to a certain ‘barbara’ and those acquainted with peter Jensen’s cosmos will discover a strong female personality behind the 48
name: the type of woman the designer has been choosing as his muse every season since his premiere collection. This time it is the british sculptor barbara Hepworth, who made it into the MoMA in new york with her abstract sculptures in the mid 1930s. Hepworth’s iconic art is dominated by organic shapes with a hole in the middle. This explains the inspiration behind the avant-garde sunhats that seem almost like a sort of negative of eighties-style sun visors, and the shoes with unusual cut-outs on the toes.
you didn’t show your collection in london this year – instead you showed it at the more intimate copenhagen fashion week, which is dominated mainly by scandinavian exhibitors. We were invited to Copenhagen Fashion Week. And as a Dane I really value coming home and supporting the people who really like peter Jensen and appreciate the message of our fashion. do you consider yourself a danish designer? Well, I suppose I’m caught between two stools, so to speak. After all, I have been living in london for 17 years now. So I feel equally at home with the british mentality as well. what do you like best about britain? I love british television and the typical british humour. It fits in well with my perspective on things. I am also a great fan of the british work ethic. The
brits work very hard; I admire and value that. There’s a rumour that you have a passion for books and cushions. cosy reading as a counterbalance to the stresses of the fashion business? yes, perhaps. I simply like to be surrounded by books and cushions. My whole flat is full of them. your work has already made it into several museums, including the much revered victoria & Albert museum in london. in your opinion, does fashion belong in a museum context? where would you draw the line between fashion and art? That is a difficult question. For me fashion always fits into a museum context when it is being looked at in a historical-comparative way. like our fashion show in the Victoria & Albert Museum last year. It wasn’t just part of a series called ‘Fashion in Motion’; it was also a retrospective on the 10th anniversary of peter Jensen. So the development of the label was at the focus. but a parallel to art is always present in your work, insofar as you always choose a female muse as the inspiration for each collection. what traits does a woman have to have, for you to dedicate a peter Jensen collection to her? The list of women who have been the inspiration of a peter Jensen collection is very long and not at all homogenous. It ranges from the artist Cindy Sherman to the actress Sissy Spacek down to my aunt Jytte, a businesswoman from greenland.
04/2012
brAnD FEATurES Peter Jensen, lonDon
Despite their apparent differences, what all of these women have in common is that they are not classic style icons. What connects them is self-confidence, independence and feminine strength. Getting back to your anniversary last year: after ten years on the market which achievements are you particularly proud of regarding your label? The fact that we are still around. That may sound like false modesty, but it’s really true. do you have a vision for the future? yes, of course. I would like the company to continue to grow and be successful. Although I guess it would be strange if I didn’t want that! Thank you for talking to us.
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brAnD FEATurES shaBD, new yorK
04/2012
the aGe oF aQuarIus
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BRAND FEATURES Shabd, New York
04/2012
Text Johannes thumfart Photos Paul Mpagi Sepuya
Brown, black and blue merge together like the seams on a rock face. Bright carmine red and sky blue light up next to them. Elsewhere there are sunshine-yellow splatters on a pale blue background – from the outside, this Williamsburg loft, belonging to the designer Shabd SimonAlexander, looks like a disused grey warehouse just like all the others in the area; but from the inside it is a psychedelic sea of colour. One is almost reminded of the abstract expressionist painters such as Mark Rothko and Jackson Pollock, who succeeded in freeing colour from its shackles back in the 1950s. Shabd Simon-Alexander and her label, simply called ‘Shabd’, are already an established name in avant-garde circles and on the blogging scene. The designer has been making her tie-dye patterns for years now and they are currently experiencing a real hype thanks to the spring 2012 collection of Parisian label Isabel Marant. Whilst tie-dye was more of an esoteric and taboo-breaking hipster phenomenon in the noughties – The Mountain label springs to mind – nowadays mainstream stars from Rihanna to Drew Barrymore are sporting the psychedelic patterns. tie-dye – despite or even because of the fact it is considered unfashionable, something for hippies and DIY fans, is currently making the ultimate comeback, with an ironic wink of course. So with this in mind, it makes sense that many people are now interested in the commercialisation of tie-dye fashion.
FROM uRBAn gARdEning tO tiE-dyE In contrast, Simon-Alexander’s work has always been defined by her attention to detail and understated style. Each colour combination has been tried out up to a hundred times before she begins to dye the materials, mainly silk and cotton. This is the stage where the tie-dye technique then reveals its incomparable but always unpredictable creative impact. The styles form a direct contrast to the colour opulence. They are beguiling in their simplicity, not least because Simon-Alexander aims to reduce the amount of material waste as much as possible along the lines of the zero-waste concept. Politically correct, she has her clothing manufactured exclusively in New York, instead of in countries offering cheap labour. She may have problems meeting the growing demand for her designs, which cost between a very inexpensive 50 and a still moderate 600 dollars. But the designer isn’t interested in expansion. She sells her clothing only in selected stores. “I would rather make fewer good things than lots of bad ones,” says Simon-Alexander. And why tie-dye? The tie-dye craze infected her in 2008 when she visited a workshop at an urban gardening project in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. “After going there I just couldn’t stop,” said the designer. “It was like an obsession. Batik and tie-dye are an ancient textile traditions,” she explains. “In a way, folkloric fashion is my starting point in the whole process. I own a large collection of South American traditional costume and Bavarian traditional costumes.” You can also learn a lot about material and visual thrift with this kind of clothing. “The cuts are often square, like the Latin American ponchos, so as little waste as possible is produced.” In addition to that, her understatement has a feminist aspect: “I think that many male designers aim to turn the attention onto themselves when they design their clothes,” she says. “But I make fashion that gives the woman who wears them enough space. I only design clothes that I would like to wear myself.”
BEtWEEn FAShiOn And ARt It’s a claim that is often heard, but in Shabd Simon-Alexander’s case you really take her word for it. Just like her claim to highly value her personal relationship with her customer base: “I have famous customers like Courtney Love, but most of the people who buy my clothes come from my New York circle.” Sitting in her loft, which is a studio and living room in one, talking about her designs, the petite woman with her wonderfully untrendy brown bob comes across as very clear and unpretentious, a highly unusual phenomenon in the world of fashion. “For me it’s about not being defined solely as a fashion designer,” she says. “I love fashion, but I don’t want it to dominate my entire life.” Usually it is only people who have got into fashion
the long way round via a few circuitous detours who have the perspective and distance to see it that way: Simon-Alexander studied photography at the renowned Tisch School of the Arts in New York. “I never really wanted to work as a photographer,” the designer explains. She worked as a colour consultant at a large wool company before founding her own label after losing her job in the wake of the economic crisis. “But studying photography was really interesting.” To this day the designer shares her studio with artists, including her boyfriend, the French installation artist Antoine Catala. She also recently cooperated with the performance artist Georgia Sagri, as part of a performance at this year’s Whitney Museum Biennial in New York. Sagri performed semi-clothed in textiles printed by Simon-Alexander featuring images of a naked body – a wonderful play on the central paradox of fashion: on the one hand fashion is there to conceal our nakedness, and on the other it often reveals more about the person than their naked skin would alone.
hOuSEWiFE tV Even though her commercial designs are visually simple, they are based on a remarkable conceptual balancing act. Consciously and in a very subtle, extremely controlled way Simon-Alexander flirts with the ostracised games of fashion: the style of the hippies and “white trash” for example, or the housewife and handicraft workshop culture to which tie-dye often belongs. Simon-Alexander can hardly stop giggling when she talks about her guest appearance on ‘The Martha Stewart Show’. “I showed Martha Stewart how to tie-dye in front of rolling cameras like some kind of TV handicraft guru!” she laughs. She likes to talk about her meeting with this icon of middle-class America when she meets up with the buyers of trendy fashion stores in Manhattan who sell her collections. Provocation through the medium of the culture of everyday life – this formula is not exclusive to Simon-Alexander. For lots of contemporary creative women the American housewife lifestyle is the antithesis of what they consider to be a desirable way of life. A good reason to confront the spectre head on. That’s what video and performance artist and friend of SimonAlexander Shana Moulton thought too: in her work she focuses on themes such as rehabilitation gymnastics – ironically, as is becoming of a feminist, but never without respect for her subject matter.
tiE-dyE: nOt FOR ESOtERic tyPES Simon-Alexander’s relationship with fashion is similarly multi-dimensional. “What I like about tie-dye is this hideous housewife-DIY perception surrounding it,” she says, and it’s unclear whether she means it or whether she’s being ironic. After all, the origins of Simon-Alexander’s career lies less in a conceptual self-image than in her love for the handicraft side of things: as her Indian name belies, in combination with her Western appearance, she is a product of a hippie family. “My parents started out living in a commune before moving to a suburb of Washington with some of their commune friends, in order to be more effective with their protest actions and closer to the centre of power,” she says. “As a kid I was constantly at demos and of course I saw a lot of tie-dye.” But she didn’t simply copy her parents’ style. Quite the contrary: “They are on an esoteric and yoga trip and only wear white.” A bit like her brother, who studied economics and dresses in full preppy style, she has found her own personal way to process her unusual upbringing. A very idiosyncratic way one could say: when she’s not busy working on her collection, Simon-Alexander travels all over the USA offering tie-dye workshops. As if that weren’t enough, she will soon be sharing her many years of experience in this traditional dyeing technique with an even wider public. Simon-Alexander is currently writing a book, in which she will share her most important tie-dye tips and tricks with us – truly doing Martha Stewart proud!
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BRAND FEATURES replaY
04/2012
thomas Wirth, cEO Replay germany
no Biz Like ShowBiz Text ilona Marx
A lot of labels are in economy mode at the moment. But Replay are taking a different tack. they are investing in product innovations, like the new responsibly manufactured Laserblast collection and the Social denim jeans that connects to your favourite social networking site through a small device in a special vinyl pocket. And the sponsoring of events like the cannes Film Festival, the Bestival music festival and most recently the MtV Europe Music Awards is also right up there on the list of priorities for the italian denim brand. At the same time the new store concept is also being implemented at stores around the globe. the most recent store to undergo the redesign, which combines industrial design with well-placed greenery, was the cologne branch on the Ehrenstrasse shopping street. Since June 2010 the brothers Matteo and Massimo Sinigaglia have owned a 51 percent stake in Fashion Box Holding, the company behind Replay, We Are Replay, Replay & Sons and Red Seal by Replay. The family of the deceased founder Claudio Buziol owns 49 percent. But Replay remains a family company. That is strongly felt by Thomas Wirth too, who took over the management of Replay Germany from Wolfgang Friedrichs in September 2011. So what is in the pipeline for 2013? The opening of the new Replay Germany headquarters, which are currently being built on an area of 1600 m² in the historic silo building of Düsseldorf’s Plange Mill, a former flour mill in the city’s Media Harbour. J’N’C editor-in-chief Ilona Marx met up with the new CEO in what is still the showroom in another part of the Plange Mill building and could hardly stifle a sigh of envy upon seeing the breathtaking views of the Düsseldorf skyline and the mighty Rhine river – an impressive sight even for a Düsseldorf local. A little more than a year ago you took on the management of Replay germany and have stepped into the shoes of Wolfgang Friedrichs, who also left the company as a shareholder. can you already take stock?
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Yes, it’s so much fun. I was always familiar with Replay when I was young so this is really a dream come true. In part also because Matteo Sinigaglia doesn’t exactly represent the typical CEO of a company. He is young and has lots of ideas. And what really impresses me: he makes them happen within the team. We are included as part of the Replay family. We can share our ideas with him. For example there are meetings especially for each region in which we discuss the specific needs of each regional market. have there been any structural changes since you joined Replay germany? Now that we are a 100 percent part of the parent company again we have introduced a new delivery system: we no longer distribute from Germany but directly from Italy. Now that the goods don’t have to be repacked, we gain two to three weeks on our delivery time, compared to before. For the re-order models there is a 48-hour delivery service. We’ve also changed our delivery system and now offer monthly schedules. This enables our customers to plan better and also makes us more attractive for the end consumer because there are always fresh goods coming onto the shop floor. Especially considering the present economic situation it is important to give our sales partners a helping hand and to work together. does that go for the competition with the vertical sales channels too? Replay has reduced its core price range … We are still positioned in the upper range, however we have worked really hard at our pricing strategy. We now start at 99 euros and the main price level is at 139 euros. In the past that was very different. The price emphasis used to be between 139 and 179 euros. We want to be mass compatible and generate turnover, but not by expanding our distribution channels and flooding the market. Quite the contrary: the new core price range is intended to give existing selected sales partners the chance to grow commercially with us. After all, the end consumer is extremely price-conscious at the moment.
BRAND FEATURES replaY
04/2012
Even the provisional showroom in düsseldorf’s Media harbour is impressive, but the new one is set to outshine it in 2013.
Won’t consideration for the price sensitivities of the customer inevitably be at the expense of the quality and statement of the collection? Quite the contrary: in order to assert ourselves against the competition with the vertical sales channels we have to be pioneers when it comes to new technologies and materials. That is the only way we can continue to grow in the high premium sector. The best example of this is our laser blast technology, which we launched in May. Thanks to this innovative technology we’ve been able to create used-effects, not only without the use of hazardous sandblasting techniques but also with a water reduction of 85 percent – the technology is also very fast: it only takes 30 seconds to blast one pair of jeans. That’s how we’ve been able to offer prices between 119 and 139 euros. We will definitely be pushing the topic of laser blasting and launching further product lines in the future. in terms of the collection contents has anything changed in the premium line We Are Replay? This summer We Are Replay underwent a relaunch. There is a completely new design team that will be leading the collection back to its former strengths. We want to position We Are Replay independently again, placing the collection in special retail categories to give it more exclusivity. When it comes to contents we are setting new priorities on the ladies’ segment. I have to say the things we have planned for the new fits for 2013 really are revolutionary. Every model has been overhauled. Sometimes a seam or a pocket was only moved a millimetre in order to optimise the fit. In addition, we have materials like super-stretch denim that almost feels like silk. In our second premium line Red Seal we are working with Japanese denims. The target group of this tailor-made line is the passionate slightly older denim lover. While the name Red Seal only used to represent the men’s range, it now also stands for the ladies’ range that previously ran under the White Seal.
Where are your products manufactured? We have moved a large proportion of our jeans production back to Europe: and by this I mean Italy, Tunisia and Turkey – as an Italian label we are going back to our roots. But, just to come back to the focus of the collection: back to the roots is also an important element. Especially in the ladies’ sector where we want to promote the ethnic look as the ultimate Replay theme and incorporate it as an ongoing component. Of course we will be following trends with our varying fashion themes. But there should also always be an anchor theme that symbolises Replay – which has convinced the end consumer to continue buying our brand over the past 30 years. in terms of image, Replay will be starting an entirely new chapter in April – the german headquarters will be moving to the silos of the Plange Mill in düsseldorf’s Media harbour. I think it’s very important to have a good image as a brand, and the silos in the Plange Mill are a listed, very prestigious building complex. We already have a showroom in the building and it’s a great location in the middle of the Media Harbour where a whole raft of labels are present. Being so central makes it easier and more convenient for the buyer. I see a lot of potential for Replay in Germany. Over the past five years we have had very stable turnover figures, despite the fluctuations in the textile sector. And after 20 years in the business I can even go so far as to say that there are few products as innovative as jeans. thank you for talking to us.
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BRAND FEATURES Freitag, Zurich
04/2012
TaRpoLogy Text Magdalena Piotrowski
Sometimes living in a less attractive area has its benefits. After all, without the monotonous view of Zurich’s hard Bridge and its cavalcades of lorries the graphic designers Markus and daniel Freitag would never have hit on the idea of using second-hand lorry tarpaulins, seatbelts and bicycle inner tubes to create their legendary messenger bags. It has been almost 20 years since the birth of the company, and the Freitag messenger bag has meanwhile made it into the design collection of New York’s MoMA. The famous bags and accessories made of recycled PVC-tarpaulin are still made by hand, mainly in Zurich. They aren’t being produced in a shared student flat anymore though, but at the new purpose-built 7500 m² ‘Nœrd’ factory in Neu-Oerlikon in Zurich. The number of employees has increased from two to 130. Which is hardly surprising: Freitag products are sold in nine own stores worldwide and at over 400 other retail outlets. According to company figures, the turnover is increasing in double digits annually. But if you think the Freitag brothers are resting on their laurels, you should think again. Spurred on by their success, 54
in 2010 the two brains behind the label ventured down a new path with their Reference collection. The plain-coloured styles are launched as seasonal collections and are conceived as musings on the journalist profession – a ‘messenger bag’ with a twist. Two years ago they also launched ‘Freitag am Donnerstag’ (Friday on Thursday), a series of events in cooperation with the Swiss magazine ‘Reportagen’, in which renowned authors and journalists give an insight into their work at various Freitag stores. Present at the reading of writer Ilija Trojanow at Cologne’s Freitag store was the label’s founder, owner and creative director, Daniel Freitag, who travelled by train from Zurich. His luggage? A folding bike and a Freitag messenger bag. No doubt about it: the 41-year-old certainly practices what he and his company preaches.
hello daniel. how did the cooperation with ‘Reportagen’ come about? It is the result of a personal meeting between my brother Markus and the editor-in-chief of the magazine, Daniel Puntas Bernet. As the Freitag Reference collection is inspired
by the profession of journalism, it seemed fitting to create a series of events for ‘Freitag am Donnerstag’ with ‘Reportagen’. Each bag from the ‘Reference’ collection bought in a German-speaking country includes a copy of the magazine. In that way we can offer ‘Reportagen’ a platform, while also imparting interesting contents at the same time. We don’t see it as a marketing strategy but rather as a special offer that reflects our attitude.
Yes and no. Basically our clientele are still the same. However their lifestyle – and our own, for that matter – has changed to a certain extent over the past 20 years. And for us, understatement is taking on an increasingly important role. The plain-coloured designs and reduced look simply suit our times and perhaps give some of our clients a good reason to stay true to the Freitag label whilst still buying a new type of bag.
your bags are often carried by creative people, such as product designers, architects and graphic artists. is that a coincidence or a planned strategy? In Zurich the so-called creative industry makes up a large and highly relevant proportion of the workforce, along with the bankers and insurance agents (laughs). I do think that this is our niche. Creative people are interested in our products and we are interested in what they do. So in that sense we are a perfect match.
doesn’t your move towards understatement constitute a complete paradigm shift? After all, for a long time the name Freitag was basically synonymous with the idea of trendy bags. Definitely not. If you take our turnover as a benchmark, Freitag products have never been more in trend than they are now. It all depends on how you look at things. Perhaps our bags were seen as trendy in 1993 because in those days it was individuality that was in demand and the used-look was a big thing. And then a few years later Al Gore took to the mic and said: “We have to save the world”. The media then switched the spotlight onto the recycling aspect of our product. The fact is, we have continued to develop in
the Reference collection is plaincoloured and seems a little more mature than the classic messenger bag. Are you aiming for a broader target group?
BRAND FEATURES Freitag, Zurich
04/2012
Photos Freitag x Reportagen Fabian unternährer
terms of design, even if the Freitag bag is already a true classic. The fact that it was incorporated into the design collection of the Museum of Modern Art in 2003 was a real accolade for us as product designers. And while we’re on the topic of recycling and sustainability: you have been dealing with these topics for the best part of 20 years, and they are more pertinent than ever before. do you have the feeling you were ahead of your time? Perhaps. I think we did bring certain aspects together in one product that weren’t restricted to one particular phase and were largely independent of trends. Sometimes we hear feedback like “Well, Freitag bags aren’t really my thing.” But there’s hardly anyone who thinks they are really ugly. And that is probably where our strength lies. If you take sustainability simply as a trend topic then you’re missing the point anyway. All these companies that think we are jumping on the “green” bandwagon and when glamour is the trend du jour we’ll be doing glamour marketing – they really have missed the point. Markus and I are children of the compost generation (laughs), and from day one we’ve tried to integrate topics that
aren’t particularly glamorous, in a vibrant, likeable way – instead of the classic tear-inducing, guilt-tripping marketing styles. That’s why we haven’t positioned ourselves in the eco-corner, although, purely from a content point of view, that’s exactly where we would fit in. you don’t do any advertising and you aren’t present at trade fairs. Of course Freitag has a media presence. But the classic paid-for advertising space isn’t accommodated in our budget. We prefer to put the money into further developing the product. We don’t go to sales trade fairs either. Of course there are platforms that we have presented our label on. But the anonymous trade fair events, where you hand out order forms, aren’t really our thing. We are very selective in choosing our sales partners, aiming for a deeper dialogue. After all, if they don’t understand our concept, they can’t sell it effectively.
as life itself – if not just because of all the different growth phases that a company like Freitag has undergone. At the beginning it’s a two-man team. Then employees are gradually added to the mix, and the duties and responsibilities start to grow. You become an all-rounder – until you get to the point where you can afford specialists and can then concentrate more on your core competences. I enjoy the luxury of being able to contribute in different areas – whether it’s on a strategic or a visual, graphic level, whether it’s being involved in the development of a collection or a shop opening in Tokyo. My range of responsibilities is incredibly broad and that’s the great thing about the job!
daniel Freitag
thanks for talking to us.
And finally a private question: you’ve gone from studying graphic design to running a business. don’t you miss the creative aspects in your daily working life? No, because the daily running of a business is just as multi-faceted 55
SPECIAL deNim weaverS
04/2012
Denim By name, Denim By naTuRe Text gerlind hector Photos tRc candiani
denim is the stuff trend dreams are made of. no other textile reflects the zeitgeist as clearly, continually surprising us with new fashion innovations. And so, of course, denim weavers always have to stay one step ahead of the stylists. Within the business they are known as the perfect trend scouts – not least thanks to the latest textile technology. “When I was a child only the bad boys wore jeans,” mused Jean Paul Gaultier a few years ago. Even if it’s difficult to picture: the eternal Parisian ‘enfant terrible’ was actually around at the time when blue jeans were reserved for the rock ’n’ roll tough guys and mother had the annoying habit of ironing a crease into the front of your freshly washed denims – because it looked more respectable. Nowadays the famous denim twill is fully established and has certainly moved on from its rebellious image: instead it is now a connecting link between young and old, male and female. That makes the “rough blue denim”, as Vogue icon Diana Vreeland referred to blue jeans in the 60s, the perfect blank canvas upon which to project the latest trends and styles each season. And regardless of whether they have five or four pockets, are carrot shape or super slim – when it comes to technical innovation and the fashionable look and feel, it is primarily the denim weavers who have to be open to experiments. “We have a highly advanced R&D system: we always have our ear to the ground and react very sensitively to the wishes of our customers,” emphasises Margherita Verlicchi, press officer for Turkish denim textile company ISKO. The company is regularly represented at trend, textile and yarn trade fairs, she adds. Like the bi-annual Munich Fabric Start, Germany’s highest-density trade fair for the textile industry. The 33rd edition last September impressed with 860 exhibitors and the well-received ‘Blue Zone’, the segment for denim weavers, which attracted a lot of attention. “The difficult economic situation hasn’t 56
really affected us,” says trade fair boss Wolfgang Klinder. Quite the contrary in fact: companies like ISKO even want to expand next year. Naturally the topic of sustainability is becoming increasingly central for denim weavers too. Many finishing techniques and the use of certain chemicals are attracting growing criticism. “Sustainability and ecological awareness are important key words for us,” confirms Pinar Demirel of Çalik Denim and adds: “Demands on the look have also risen.” In order to comply with expectations regarding ecology and fashion, “higher technological standards with minimal energy and water usage” are a necessary prerequisite. Greater emphasis is also being placed on this topic at Munich Fabric Start. The so-called ‘Eco Village’ at the fair presented 500 different textiles alone, all produced according to sustainable criteria. Especially where jeans are concerned, for which the range of finishing techniques covers effective coatings down to various appliqués, ecological know-how plays an important role. At the same time, no compromises can be made in terms of wearability and comfort. When it comes to forecasts for 2013 the industry experts are unanimous. Including Joachim Baumgartner, trend scout for Munich Fabric Start: “The quality of denim is going to improve and it’s going to be smarter and more chic. Of course it will stay stretchy, as well as glittery and metallic.” That is confirmed by Fatih Türk, sales & marketing director at Çalik Denim: “Flexible, comfortable and functional – we are seeing an increase in the demand for stretch, not just amongst women but also men.” Interesting coatings and understated shiny effects are becoming more popular as well as leathery-feel jeans that – very importantly – have to feel natural. Nobody likes the feeling of plastic on their skin. Breathability and comfort are an absolute must, along with trendy looks.
deNim Fabric treNdS For 2013 – top Five StREtch The ultimate wearability is offered by stretch fabrics. There is increasing demand for this, and not just amongst women but also men. Women are going for a super sexy look with mega-stretch. For the men the look remains clean and robust: an authentic denim look in combination with a cotton/stretch mix that you only see if you’re really looking. nEW cOAtingS The plastic look is out! New coatings are a lot more understated and have to feel natural. Leathery looks are very much in, the so-called sharkskin finish, slightly destroyed treatments and, above all, coatings like the pastel pearl technique. In this process partially shining colour particles are applied or sprayed on for an elegant shimmering pastel look. FLAttEnEd FABRic A premium look without any noticeable coatings. In order to achieve this effect the denim is woven particularly tightly, resulting in a high-quality look due to its compactness. In addition it acquires a slight shimmer. The highly compressed, smoothed-down material is not only robust and particularly tear-resistant, but also exudes masculine chic. WintER tExtuRE With the help of different warp and weft yarns the front and reverse sides of the textile can have different qualities: smooth and shiny on the outside and soft and brushed on the inside. Additional brushing results in extra comfort, warming up the wearer on cold days. Some soft yarns and tweed or herringbone patterns add additional softness. Herringbone, diamonds and checks can also be applied by laser or with the use of stitching. EcOLOgicAL dEniM Even for the most complicated finishing techniques environmental awareness should be the utmost priority. Dyeing, coating, bleaching – more and more weaving mills are investing increasingly in the development of ecologicallyfriendly technologies, using less resources, like water for example.
SPECIAL deNim weaverS
04/2012
the moSt importaNt deNim producerS at a glaNce:
boSSa The Turkish denim company, which has its headquarters in Adana, was founded in 1951 and has been specialising in jeans since 1983. Their clients include illustrious names like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Massimo Dutti. Bossa goes to great lengths to ensure sustainable production of its over 15 different blue shades and complex finishes. www.bossa.com.tr
Çalik deNim Ahmet Çalik founded his company in 1987 in the Turkish city of Malatya. Specialising in gabardine, yarn and especially denim they generated an annual turnover of 154 million US dollars in 2011. Clients include Diesel, G-Star, Gap and H&M. For 2013 Çalik Denim is concentrating on effective coatings. www.calikdenim.com
trc caNdiaNi This Italian textile company near Milan was founded in 1938. Since 1976 they have been specialising in denim and place particular emphasis on ensuring the highest possible quality standards. TRC Candiani is a family-run company now in its fourth generation, with a staff of 650. It produces more than 35 million metres of denim a year. One of its latest projects is organic denim. www.trccandiani.com
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SPECIAL deNim weaverS
the moSt importaNt deNim producerS at a glaNce:
iSko With 200 million metres per year ISKO is the world’s largest producer of denim. Fashionable innovation and high performance are the key words of the company, as well as ecological responsibility. ISKO employs 14,000 people and is part of the Sanko Group with its headquarters in Istanbul. www.isko.com.tr
JeaNologia The subject of sustainability is right at the top of this Spanish denim producer’s list. Located in Paterna, Jeanologia is known for its unique G2 washing machine that works completely without water, using oxygen instead. In this way unique finishes are attained that are then further refined using state-of-the-art laser technology.
04/2012
orta aNadolu Founded in 1953, this weaving mill has developed into one of the most important denim producers worldwide. Over 60 million metres of denim are produced annually at its production facilities in Turkey and Bahrain. Transparency, commitment and reliability are part and parcel of the company’s philosophy. In 2010 the ‘Orta Blu’ department was set up, which is concerned mainly with social aspects and sustainability projects. www.ortaanadolu.com
SwiFt galeY This very old American company, based in Atlanta, was founded in 1886 and specialises in denim, workwear and shirts. High quality dyeing and finishing are the utmost priority, as well as the use of premium materials. Lee, Levi’s, DKNY and Calvin Klein are amongst its customers, with production sites in the USA, Mexico, Europe and Asia. www.swiftgaley.com
www.jeanologia.com
vicuNha têxtil
Kipas Holding was founded in 1984 and underwent a restructuring in 2005. The company is one of the 40 largest employers in Turkey and sees itself as supporting the national economy. Kipas places its emphasis on latest technological standards, ecological awareness and social commitment.
For over 40 years Vicunha Têxtil, which has its headquarters in Brazil, has been making a name for itself as an experienced indigo and twill producer. It has since grown to be one of the largest companies in Latin-America. The denim producers are constantly investing in the latest technologies as well as the further education of their 8000 employees, and are also highly committed to local youth projects and environmental protection, particularly in Brazil.
www.kipas.com.tr
www.vicunha.com.br
kipaS holdiNg
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Photographer: Beate Hansen. Š 2010. Model: Charlbi. Top by Yummie Tummie and Jeans by Robin’s Jean.
Scanne weitere Informationen zum COTTON USA-Lizenzprogramm!
Embrace Nature. Choose Cotton. cottonusa.de
trade ShowS
04/2012
ILLUSTRATION MAtthiAS SchARdt
KARL-hEinZ MüLLER
Bread & Butter, Berlin
FaShion’S moveR anD ShakeR Bread & Butter is constantly reinventing itself each season! And it has to, because anyone who wants to stay on the fashion carousel for the duration better not suffer from dizziness. Karl-heinz Müller has nothing to worry about in this respect. As the head and heart of the internationally famed leading tradeshow for street and urban wear he loves a good challenge and has kept on showing the sceptics that he can always trust his instincts. Twice a year Berlin’s favourite image of being ‘poor, but sexy’ is turned on its head when Fashion Week descends on the capital. That’s when Berlin finally gets to make a buck out of its irresistible charms. The city’s mayor Klaus Wowereit knows who he has to thank for that. For the tenth anniversary of Bread & Butter in summer 2011 he emphasised more than once how important the international trade fair is for the fashion business, but also primarily for the city of Berlin. Exact figures aren’t available, but Barcelona, which hosted Bread & Butter eight times, estimates that an additional 100 million euros flowed into the city – every season. Retailers, buyers, designers and trend scouts – twice a year they all make the pilgrimage to the city on the Spree River in search of inspiration, trends and the unique edgy glamour of Berlin Fashion Week. In addition to other trade fairs like Premium, The Gallery and the Green Showroom, Bread & Butter in particular has established itself as the number one international meeting point for the fashion community, giving drive to the entire Fashion Week. Each season one asks oneself the question: is this internationally renowned trade fair simply reflecting the zeitgeist, or is it actually defining it itself? But really it’s obvious: Karl-Heinz Müller, the head of Bread & Butter, knows that for an event like his you need to have a sharp profile and to always be slightly ahead of the game. Whether it comes to choosing a location or knowing which label has the unique credibility that one has come to expect at the Bread & Butter.
MüLLER’S inStinct FOR gOOd idEAS Even thought the range of labels might not be to everyone’s taste: the path of least resistance was never going to be the route taken by Müller and his Bread & Butter team. After all, Karl-Heinz Müller’s instincts are usually more 60
spot on than any statistics by trend researchers or personal opinions. The go-getting qualities of the 55-year-old are simply legendary. Born and bred in Dillingen, a small town in the Saarland region in the southwest of Germany, Müller studied neither fashion nor business. He comes from a sales background, first training as a shop assistant at a food store, before becoming part of the fashion world, which included a stint as a salesman at Levi’s. In 1999 Müller became self-employed and opened his own denim store in Cologne – at a time when denim wasn’t particularly hip. Spontaneity, optimism, daring to be different, these are all valuable traits in Müller’s character, as well as his adamant refusal to give up on good ideas. So in 2001 he took the daring step and founded Bread & Butter GmbH & Co. KG. The motivation? Müller simply asked himself and the fashion industry: why do fashion tradeshows have to take place in such dull and boring convention halls with the same tedious mix of labels? Where is the big inspiration for the retailers who are searching for innovative concepts and product ranges? And getting back to the almost legendary Müller optimism: shortly before the opening of the first Bread & Butter, which back then was still an ‘offshow for selected brands’ in an old warehouse in Cologne, they found out that they weren’t being granted a permit from the fire safety authority. But Müller didn’t lose his nerve – and the guts of the former salesman were rewarded: Bread & Butter was a success. Müller and his team could have made themselves cosy on the city by the Rhine over the next few years, but they didn’t! Instead they moved to the old Siemens Works in Berlin and then to the former Expo grounds in Barcelona. And for the past three years the tradeshow has been occupying the halls of the former Berlin-Tempelhof Airport. What a crazy idea, thought a few envious people, sniggering up their sleeves. After all, the entire location was a listed building and the old halls opened up completely to the runway. What about the winter? Who cares, Müller thought, the location is cool. And that was his attitude right from the start. Every January he has 1.3 kilometres of provisional walls erected. The preparations start weeks in advance: around 1200 lorries and an armada of several thousand workmen and booth builders turn up to create an entirely new world of inspiration from scratch: a world that places fun and business on an equal footing.
trade ShowS
04/2012
JöRg WichMAnn
A hEARt FOR ‘BOLd And BRAVE BRAndS’ ‘Fun & Profit’, the leitmotiv of the first hour, is a wholehearted promise to all exhibitors and visitors, which still applies to this day. On top of that, to keep things exciting, Müller and his team of around 100 full-time staff conjure a new motto out of their hats every time. The claim for this year’s winter edition, which is taking place from 15 –17 January 2013 is: ‘Big Time – for the bold and brave brands’. Solidarity with unique and unusual brands is openly demonstrated here, as Bread & Butter certainly sees itself as a supporter of the ‘bold and brave’ who dare to challenge the globalised homogenisation of pretty much everything. Who does Müller want to impress with this? No one! Because deep in his heart of hearts he is still a retailer, who lives and loves with his most important clientele: the many motivated fashion retailers who, in the face of internet shopping and rampant verticalisation and globalisation, are struggling to assert themselves in the shark tank with the large discount retailers. They are the ones fine-combing the Bread & Butter twice a year in search of interesting brands and exciting new concepts. You sometimes get the feeling Müller would most like to personally take even the small fashion store owners from every backwater town personally by the hand and lead them around his trade fair. The inspirational impetus he gives the whole industry every six months bolsters trade and exudes confidence, in a crazy fun park called the fashion business in which a rollercoaster with a triple loop-theloop seems to have replaced the good old fashion carousel a long time ago. And those interested in Karl-Heinz Müller’s other ideas that don’t revolve around the tradeshow should stop by one of his three 14 oz. stores in Berlin. After the footwear shop on the Münzstrasse and a multi-brand denim store on Neue Schönhauser Strasse, on 26 October 2012 an additional branch was opened right in the middle of the famous Ku’damm shopping street. With labels like Schott, Canada Goose and Mackintosh on an area of 600 m2, a strong selection with an eye for individuality is being presented here – fashion away from the mainstream: honest, robust and above all authentic. And there it is again: that perfect Bread & Butter concept shining through.
Panorama, Berlin
CLoSing The gap A tradeshow premiere right next to Berlin-Schönefeld Airport: Panorama Berlin, which is taking place for the first time from 15– 17 January 2013 at the specially constructed Expocenter Airport Berlin, will close an important gap in the mid-price fashion segment. “We are the perfect addition to the young avant-garde of the Premium and the Bread & Butter, where the focus is on street and sportswear,” emphasises Jörg Wichmann, Managing Director of Panorama. And, although it is still too premature to speculate, the new ExpoCenter Airport Berlin certainly offers plenty of space for expansion: on around 20,000 m², spread over three halls, primarily strong-selling brands will present their collections. The portfolio of around 300 labels that have already registered ranges from A for Apriori to L for Liebeskind all the way to Z for Zonkey Boot. The fact that the tradeshow is taking place at the same time as already established fashion events is particularly interesting for the industry professionals, as it means the order phase can be used even more effectively. The choice of venue directly at Berlin-Schönefeld Airport is also very smart: “The buyers can pretty much come to us directly from the runway and don’t have to waste any time,” says Wichmann. Extra services like shuttle buses from Panorama to the other Fashion Week hotspots and special deals with hotels, Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) and airlines provide further incentives. “We have thought of everything and are looking forward to giving the international fashion location of Berlin an additional boost,” says Jörg Wichmann. gh
next edition: 15 – 17 January 2013
next edition: 15 – 17 January 2013
www.breadandbutter.com
www.panorama-berlin.com 61
trade ShowS
04/2012
AnitA tiLLMAnn
nORBERt tiLLMAnn
Premium, Berlin
The FaShion pioneeRS ten years of the fashion business in Berlin! in January 2013 Premium is celebrating its first double-digit birthday. But that’s no reason for the brains behind the event, Anita and norbert tillmann, to sit back and relax – instead they’re continuing to beaver away in the background, coming up with exciting concepts and ideas. Fashion capital Berlin! Anita and Norbert Tillmann – related neither by blood nor marriage – had this vision from the outset. And the pioneering work carried out by the pair since Premium Exhibitions GmbH was founded in 2002 cannot be rated highly enough. After all, they were pretty much alone at the beginning. Even industry insiders didn’t hold out much hope against the established competition in Düsseldorf and Munich. Back then Bread & Butter was still taking place in Cologne. And before Berlin became “poor, but sexy” it had the reputation of being poor and unsexy. Nowadays it’s hard to imagine the city without Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Bread & Butter and of course Premium at the STATION-Berlin venue. Last year the two Tillmanns received the Order of Merit from the federal state of Berlin in recognition of their work. But they don’t think much of excessive adulation. “We don’t have the time for that. We are creative entrepreneurs and are constantly working on new and old concepts,” emphasises Anita Tillmann, whilst also providing an explanation for the fact that, compared to other similar names in the industry, she and Norbert Tillmann rarely appear in the press. But Premium’s milestone birthday this coming January will be officially celebrated with a bang. Plans are being made for a big party for exhibitors and visitors in the disused underground train tunnel right under Potsdamer Platz. The choice of location has historical connotations: this is where the Premium success story began exactly ten years ago. And to commemorate 62
the anniversary there will also be a special-edition fashion collection that will be sold at stores including F95 on Luckenwalder Strasse. Founded by the Premium organisers, all year round the F95 fashion store will be presenting the brands that you will also find at Premium. The tradeshow has long since been regarded as an institution with a firmly established, essentially simple concept. “We curate the offer every season anew,” explains Anita Tillmann. “Price, style, assortment – we are continuously sharpening our profile.” Current trends always have to be updated, the changing zeitgeist and brand awareness anticipated and reflected. As far as the choice and presentation of the brands is concerned, the Tillmanns are constantly proving that they have a magic touch. And so every six months around 60,000 professional visitors make the pilgrimage to the former Berlin Postbahnhof (former postal depot) next to the U-Bahn station Gleisdreieck – to gain an overview of the latest creations by the approx. 800 Premium brands and to place their orders in an inspiring atmosphere. “After all, buying is intimately connected with emotions,” emphasises Anita Tillmann, who also loves clothes shopping for herself and her little twin daughters when she’s not working. “I’m always over the moon whenever a long-awaited package is finally delivered,” she laughs. After all, despite the stress associated with her everyday working life, Anita Tillmann has never lost her indomitable enjoyment of fashion and new styles. She swears by Confucius’ motto: “Choose a job you love and you will never have to work a day in your life!” gh next edition: 15 – 17 January 2013 www.premiumexhibitions.com
trade ShowS
04/2012
LtR: RicK VAn RiJthOVEn (NEW BUSINESS), LucEL VAn dEn hOEVEn (GENERAL MANAGER), cAROLinE KROuWELS (ART DIRECTOR MODEFABRIEK), AnnE-cLAiRE PEtit (ART DIRECTOR KLEINE FABRIEK) RAFFAELLO nAPOLEOnE, CEO PITTI IMMAGINE
Modefabriek, Amsterdam
amSTeRDam FReShneSS After starting out 16 years ago as an experimental fashion platform with just 27 brands, Modefabriek Amsterdam, now with more than 600 international exhibitors and an extensive programme of accompanying events, is meanwhile one of the most important must-attend dates on the fashion tradeshow calendar. Find out here what awaits the industry at the next edition on 20 and 21 January 2013. Scheduled for this coming January, Modefabriek Amsterdam will be getting the 2013 trade fair season off to a start shortly after Bread & Butter in Berlin. And although they’re mainly sticking to the tried and tested, there’ll also be a lot of new ideas. While the categories are remaining pretty much the same with the themed areas ‘Refines’ (the platform for luxurious high-end fashion by well-known designers), ‘Appearance’ (sophisticated fashion by labels like Ana Alcazar and Baum und Pferdgarten), ‘Department’ (casual fashion by labels like Alberto, Ben Sherman and Burlington), ‘Authentic’ (street fashion by mostly young Dutch labels) and ‘Industry’ (young fashion by labels like Elvine and No Excess), the organisers are also upping the ante as far as the adjoining focus platforms are concerned: with innovative denim and streetwear labels like Pike Brothers, Eat Dust, K.O.I and Kuyichi the ‘Blueprint’ event will not only provide a good overview of what’s currently happening in the jeans sector, but, kitted out with a shop, bar and music line-up it will also be offering the perfect setting for passionate exchanges on the topic of the ‘blue gold’. With labels including Armedangels, Braintree and Komodo, ‘Mint’ is taking a social and ecological slant, while ‘Refined+’ is showing selected pieces from the progressive fashion sector. And the organisers aren’t just pooling their strengths in terms of presentation for the industry professionals. There is also a bigger emphasis on the subject of retail than there was in the past: from January popular Dutch fashion and bookstores will be represented with pop-up outlets both in the Blueprint area as well as on the Redefined+- and Mint floors. With ‘Bachelor’, an exhibition of the best degree work from different fashion schools, as well as collaborations with the Amsterdam ROC College and the jeans institute House of Denim, which is based in Almere near Amsterdam, the long tradition of cooperations with schools and universities is also being continued. ag
Pitti uomo, Florenz
The iTaLian JoB As soon as one Pitti ends, another begins. After successfully defying the financial crisis in their own country with a significant rise in foreign visitors to last summer’s event, the organisers of Florence’s traditional tradeshow are already plotting their next coup. it will be taking place from 8 to 11 January 2013, as usual in the Fortezza da Basso fortress. The word is change! Founded in the early 1950s as a regional fashion trade fair, the strict dogma of ‘constant change equals success’ runs like a golden thread through the history of Pitti Uomo. And thanks to pooled business know-how, over the past decades the organisers have been able to cement the reputation of Florence as a hub of the Italian fashion scene. Installations, themed areas and an all-round supporting programme of events have ensured all sorts of surprises every season. After the 82nd edition of Pitti in summer 2012, which attracted 17,800 buyers and more than 30,000 international visitors to the metropolis on the banks of the Arno River with 1065 exhibitors on an area of 59,000 m², the team already has its hands full planning the next edition. As well as Pitti Uomo, which once again covers all fashion bases between casualwear, authentic clothing and street style with labels like Tom & Hawk, B.D. Baggies, Samsøe & Samsøe, Superdry and Fred Perry, the meanwhile eleventh edition of Pitti W_Woman Precollection is taking place in the neighbouring Dogana on Via Valfonda. Here an exquisite selection of international womenswear labels will be presenting their designs for autumn/winter 2013/14. And the e-Pitti online tradeshow concept is also going into the next round: presented for the first time in June 2011 on their own website, the platform offers buyers the opportunity to take a virtual stroll around the halls and revisit interesting stands a whole month after the tradeshow ends. A 360-degree view, zoom options for key items, access to online showrooms and a whole host of further features are opening up new, unconventional ways of doing business. ag
next edition: 20 – 21 January 2013
next edition: 8 – 11 January 2013
www.modefabriek.nl
www.pittimmagine.com 63
trade ShowS
04/2012
tOM FLORiO, CEO ADVANSTAR FASHION GROUP
chAntAL MALingREy-PERRin, MANAGEMENT
Magic, Las Vegas
denim by Première Vision, Paris
DReSSeD in Denim After a total of ten events, denim by Première Vision has long since developed into one of the most important and influential international trade fairs for the good old indigo fabric. Following a dazzling party to celebrate the milestone anniversary last May it’s now back to business as (un)usual at the Paris tradeshow headquarters: and for the eleventh edition, which will be taking place from 28 to 29 november 2012 at the traditional location of La halle Freyssinet, the cards have been reshuffled once again.
viva LaS vegaS Originally founded in california in 1933, Magic in Las Vegas is not only one of the largest and most traditional, but certainly also one of the most innovative fashion tradeshows in the world. Proof of this is provided by the way it is divided into different comprehensive sections, ranging from streetwear to casual styles and high fashion down to footwear, home textiles and fabric manufacturers, as well as the extensive supporting programme of events including seminars, lectures and fashion shows, which give an in-depth insight into what is currently happening in the fashion business.
With its tenth edition, which had the motto ‘Pimp your Glam’, Denim by Première Vision not only maintained its own visitor record, but managed to bring a bit of glamour to the whole slightly dry topic of the textile business with an elaborate hall concept along with a fitting party and programme of accompanying events. This really impressed exhibitors from the fields of ‘Weavers,’ ‘Accessories’, ‘Garments & Finishing’ and ‘Washes, Technology & Fibres’ as well as the approx. 2600 professional visitors. And speaking of visitors: while the number of exhibitors remained more or less constant at 83, the number of guests increased by almost ten percent in comparison to the previous year. And the professional visitors are turning out to be increasingly international: the number of Spanish buyers rose by 62 percent, for example. From Germany 53.6 percent and from Italy 32.6 percent more professional visitors travelled to the event than in the previous year. There has also been a plus in visitors from Great Britain, the Netherlands, Turkey and Tunisia. The progressing internationalisation of the tradeshow is not only reflected in the figures from North America (up by 23.4 percent). A plus of 41.6 percent amongst Brazilian buyers is also generating attention. For the upcoming, eleventh edition of Denim by Première Vision the tradeshow organisers are continuing their successful cooperation with Turkish denim producer ISKO. The most important tool is once again the ‘Up to Denim’ project, which is taking place in a specially constructed area of La Halle Freyssinet. With panel discussions, press conferences and presentations it will once again be focusing on the creative supply chain in the denim business. This is a perfect accompaniment to the ‘homemade’ theme that will visually dominate the rest of the exhibition space. With 85 international companies the number of exhibitors is at the same high level as the previous year, while the tradeshow organisers are expecting another rise in the numbers of visitors. See you there! ag
No doubt about it, Magic has long since been an absolute must-attend event – and not only for the North American fashion community. When the tradeshow next opens its doors between 19 and 21 February 2013 in the Mandalay Bay and Las Vegas Convention Centers, it will be a very international affair. And with good reason. Not just due to the 5000-plus exhibitors and 60,000 visitors who flock to the 800,000 m² exhibition area twice a year. Where business is concerned the numbers are pretty big too. Magic has long since held the reputation of being one of the industry’s most effective platforms, and an average daily order turnover of 200 million US dollars impressively underlines this evaluation. And the organisers have once again pulled out all the stops for the upcoming 159th edition. Once again they’ll be going with the tried-and-tested division of the fair into a total of eight segments. ‘WWDMagic’ offers hip ladieswear in all of its facets. In addition to more than 2000 collections, visitors can also look forward to trend lectures and exhibitions. ‘Mens/Wear’ focuses on clean sports and casual styles with expert talks rounding things off. ‘FN Platform’ covers the entire footwear segment from ladies’ and men’s shoes down to kids’ sizes. The streetwear area is divided into ‘Street’ and ‘S.L.A.T.E.’, a platform which, curated by different creative agencies every time, concentrates on the most innovate brands of the sector. Originally launched as an indie trade fair, the ‘Pooltradeshow’ has been a part of Magic since 2001. The exhibitors are young labels working at the interface between fashion, art and design. ‘Sourcing at Magic’ is North America’s biggest event in the sourcing sector at which 700 exhibitors from over 40 countries present their fabrics and designs. Plus there are also trend lectures and seminars specifically for the industry. ‘Project’ is the most recent addition to the Magic family. At the Las Vegas event, plus the East Coast edition taking place from 21 – 23 January in New York, the spotlight is on the thousand currently most internationally sought-after and directional denim, street fashion, workwear and casual labels. The list includes Puma, Ben Sherman, Parajumpers, RVCA, True Religion and Woolrich. ag
next editions: 28 – 29 november 2012 / 22 – 23 May 2013
next edition: 19 – 21 February 2013
www.denimbypremierevision.com
www.magiconline.com
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MiquEL SERRAnO
Brandery, Barcelona
eL opTimiSTa it’s no big secret that a considerable amount of effort is required to lure brands and buyers onto the international trade fair stage in the present economic climate, especially in crisis-ridden Spain. Even Brandery director Miquel Serrano is having to face this challenge – but is managing to maintain his optimism. In order to secure the success of southern Europe’s leading street and urbanwear trade fair, he once again focused on the direct contact between exhibitors and retailers at the most recent Brandery last summer. At the event, which took place from 13 – 15 July in Barcelona’s Montjuïc Exhibition Centre, 15 groups of international buyers took part in 160 so-called speed dates. And Brandery even covered some of their travel and accommodation expenses as well. A way out of the crisis? In the midst of the hustle and bustle of the trade fair Miquel Serrano found time for a short statement. the seventh edition of Brandery is in full swing. is it too early for an initial prognosis? It was a good decision to do a re-launch and make Brandery accessible to the public. The concept of two areas has really paid off: one tradeshow area reserved for the Profashionals, and ‘Brandtown’ as a public space and space for concerts, workshops and exhibitors. This enables the labels to approach the buyers as well as come into direct contact with their target group. Apart from the tradeshow, what is the most important argument for the fashion industry to come to Barcelona? is it the speed dates or the Brandery catwalk? After all, there are around 15 shows taking place here with over 30 brands involved. The B2B approach for the speed dating is very important in my opinion, which is why we have also introduced a hosted buyer programme, such as for buyers from Brazil and China for example. And the decision to hold Brandery on a weekend was also consciously made. The idea behind it was that travel budgets have been cut in many places: it’s no longer ten-man
teams coming to do the buying anymore, but more likely only the shop owners themselves. And they are usually busy during the week. As far as the benefit of the Brandery Catwalk is concerned: organising a fashion show all on their own requires a lot of effort and is very expensive for labels. We not only supply the necessary equipment, but also organise the communication with media representatives and photographers. That’s a big plus for the brands. In addition to big names like Custo Barcelona, Replay and Superdry there are also plenty of smaller labels and start-ups presenting their products here. I think that visitors to the Brandery will find an interesting mix of Spanish and international labels overall. you are also exploring brand new territory: Brandery Asia had its premiere in Singapore last May. Yes, Brandery Asia is based on a joint venture between Fira de Barcelona (Barcelona’s trade fair institution) and the organisational company MP International. It’s being planned as an annual event every May, at the same time as Blueprint, an event for Asian and Western newcomers. After the premiere this year Custo Barcelona has already been able to report the first success: they will be opening two shops in Vietnam, with the help of a Vietnamese investor. For the Spanish economy the fashion and textile industry is an important factor, especially looking at export rates, which rose 11.5 percent in 2011 compared to the previous year. So it should be our aim to support Spanish and other European labels in opening up new markets worldwide. thanks for talking to us. im
next edition: 25 – 27 January 2013 www.thebrandery.com 65
Short cutS
04/2012
Zeha Berlin
SoleS with a paSt
Adieu winter, salut spring! As soon as the first warm rays of sunshine fill the streets with life again, it’s high time for a major overhaul of our wardrobes. How practical that Sessùn is here to help. With smart 50s and 60s-inspired blouses, tops, shirts and skirts, light beach and city dresses which are either plain-coloured, floral or with polka dots, high-cut shorts and hotpants, skinny 7/8-length trousers, smart blazers and detailed pullovers and cardigans, the spring/summer 2013 collection by the resourceful French label not only offers the perfect style for pretty much every occasion, but also provides the perfect summer colour scheme with both vibrant and soft blue, yellow, rose/pink, green and red tones. The collection is rounded off by a bikini model, featuring a Liberté print version, and a casual bag range.
Tradition is a lot more than a mere marketing promise for the Berlin shoemakers from Zeha: founded in 1897 by Carl Häßner, the footwear specialist first caused a sensation on Berlin’s art and culture scene in the Golden Twenties, before going on to conquer the entire republic with style-conscious products made with high-quality craftsmanship. In the post-war years Zeha concentrated on the manufacturing of sport shoes and after the division of Germany became the official sports equipment supplier of the GDR. Following reunification the label initially disappeared off the scene – before making a comeback in the 2000s with lovingly created collections that built on from the success of the early days. As well as smart old-school sneakers and extremely high-quality re-edits of classic football boots from the 50s and 60s, the Berlin label is seeing in the next spring/summer season with minimalistic boots, elegant ankle boots, a take on deck shoes and light slippers for the men and feminine sandals, elegant high heels and androgynous Chelsea, Oxford and Derby styles for the ladies. An extensive bag collection rounds off the collection.
www.sessun.com
www.zeha-berlin.de
Meltin’ Pot
leSS iS more, more iS leSS For the spring/summer 2013 season the Italian denim experts from Meltin’ Pot are once again in the running with a mix of minimalism and maximalism, experiment and tradition. While the balance between robust workmanship, subtle detailing and ‘Vorsprung durch Technik’ is being explored with pigment-dyed chinos and extensive updates and re-edits of several jeans classics for the men, the ladies are being taken on a journey through all denim epochs with super-skinny styles and feminine 70s looks. But no corners are being cut in terms of the good old rock’n’roll approach or the glamour factor. The second edition of the new KLSH capsule collection offers authentic jeanswear with highquality fabrics, clear silhouettes and highly modern tailoring. Sometimes with an extremely minimalistic style, sometimes lavishly bleached and re-dyed, the jeans are 80s-inspired in red, green, yellow and blue pastel tones. The perfect look for the true jeans connoisseur. www.meltinpot.com 66
Sessùn
Summer iN the citY
Samsøe & Samsøe
ScaNdiNaviaN beautieS Days on the beach, nights on the city’s club scene. Established in 1991 by the siblings Klaus and Preben Samsøe, Samsøe & Samsøe has been heading a new Scandinavian fashion generation ever since the launch of the first menswear collection in 1993. A status that was underlined in 2004 with the long anticipated ladies’ line and in the years that followed, with a denim collection and flagship store openings throughout Northern Europe. For the upcoming warm season the skirts, pants, shorts, tops, jackets, dresses and knits of the ladies’ line come with a fine mix of typically clean Scandinavian casual look and chic-modern urban fashion in pastel yellow and pink or muted dark blue, olive, grey and black. Going either for the 60s beach-bum style or a more subtle 80s-inspired look, the men’s sweaters, jackets, tees, shirts, knits, denims, chinos and shorts will be well-received thanks to exactly the right portion of laid-back casual. Maritime stripe designs, playful heather colour combos, delicate pastel tones and sophisticated graphic prints are also playing an important role. www.samsoe.com
short cuts
04/2012
Filson
TwoThirds Forvert
Bonjour Paris
FashionaBle water nymPhs
From Cologne to Paris, from the Belgian Quarter directly to the Arc de Triomphe and off into the artist district of Montmartre: for the next summer season the street fashion luminaries from Forvert are going all Francophile on us. While the guys are getting the hearts of the female Parisiennes beating faster with elegant Henleys, sporty tank-tops, light hoodies, funky board shorts, rough and ready cargos and striped or smart graphic shirts, the girls are turning the heads of the French garçons with sophisticated graphic tees, tops with detailing, threequarter sleeved baseball shirts, 60s beach bunny hotpants, casual hoodies and elegant dresses. The colour palette ranges from understated navy, red, white and olive down to summery yellow, grey and brown. Add to that a selection of caps, beanies, backpacks, shopping bags and a small belt collection and you’ll be ready to take Paris by storm. www.forvert.com
suitcases For the wilderness
Anvil
t For t-shirt
During previous seasons the San Sebastian watermen from TwoThirds have already made a name for themselves on the nextlevel streetwear scene with their fusion of high-quality craftsmanship, sophisticated design and commitment to ecological sustainability, but for spring 2013 they’re further upping the ante. The new collection, which is made almost entirely from organic cotton and recycled polyester with multiple certificates attesting to their ecological commitment, includes casual chinos and shorts, light tees and tank tops as well as soft sweaters and hoodies as well as elaborately produced, Mediterranean-style summer knits and jacket models. Together with their own-brand, ultra-soft board shorts and their extensive accessories range they’ve really got everything covered once again. Make sure you check out their recently updated website.
In 1890 C.C. Filson opened a small store selling lumberjack workwear in Seattle, thereby laying the foundation stone for a success story that ranges from a whole series of meanwhile legendary outdoor styles – led by the ‘Filson Cruiser’ jacket from 1914 – all the way to the present day. But the label’s perhaps biggest coup was the launch of luxurious suitcases and robust luggage, which, with its attention to detail, has been appealing to travellers and design aesthetes the world over. While the product palette has constantly grown, the philosophy of the brand has stayed the same: superior quality by means of painstaking craftsmanship and the best materials. The signature fabrics Tin Cloth, Shelter Cloth and Cover Cloth as well as different high-quality leathers stand out with their unique resilience and comfort. Whether in a storm or snow, for fast-paced city hopping or the big countryside hike – Filson simply offers the right model for every situation.
www.twothirds.com
www.filson.com
www.anvil.eu
For this coming year tee specialist Anvil is focusing on ring-spun cotton with an ultra-soft touch and has already extended its wide colour range of these styles to over 20 colours for ladies, men and kids. In 2013 the ladies’ tailoring is a lot more clean-cut with neon and heather melanges setting the tone in terms of colour. A new sweater line for ladies and men with white, colour-contrasting drawstring cords and zips and the Eco-Line consisting of Organic and Sustainable models (made from transitional cotton & recycled PET-polyester) round off the collection. No doubt about it, Anvil Shirts really pack a punch – both in terms of their appearance and colour as well as in terms of sustainability and socially fair production. All products are certified to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and to WRAP. And as Anvil attaches great importance to transparency, their annual CSR report is available to read online.
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04/2012
Levi’s Made & Crafted
on the road
Converse
turning new into old
PRPS Noir
material matters
To help you avoid unpleasant frostbite this winter, the outdoor experts and adventurers from Camel Active are launching a series of smart down jackets. And their most noticeable feature: the combination of functional padding and the finest down filling as well as a high-quality mix of technical and traditional materials. Ultimate wearing comfort and plenty of protection from the rain, wind and snow are also offered by the additional cotton trimming in the inside lining of the cuffs and neck, the fur-trimmed hood with press studs and zip and the large front patch pockets lined with fleece. The jackets are available in muted, earthy and wintry tones as well as in soft autumnal colours like dark orange, dark red and dark blue.
There’s also news to report from the Levi’s Made & Crafted camp. After scoring points with high-quality fabrics and sophisticated designs in past seasons, next spring it’s going full steam ahead once again for the Levi’s sub-brand! Under the motto ‘All roads lead to home’ the label is presenting a collection that tells the story of travelling as a raison d’être. For the boys the focus is on slim-fit and heavy, late-60s California psychedelic-inspired denims, widecut shorts and chinos, washed-out sweaters, striped tees and longsleeve shirts, checked shirts, suede leather jackets and short cotton blazers, while wide dresses, skinny denims, hotpants, tie-dye tops and tees as well as blouses and skirts in 50s and 60s-look are all the rage for the girls. The colours range from muted earthy tones to soft blue down to light rosé and the patterns from Indio down to surfer stripes. The range is rounded off with bags, hats, belts and scarves.
Well-used and shabby is the new new. And it’s not only millions of denim enthusiasts who are convinced by this fact, but also the majority of the international sneaker community. After all, a little piece of our own history can be found in every stain and every tear. An attitude that Converse is taking into consideration this coming spring under the motto ‘Washed & Worn’. The classic Chuck Taylor All Star is available in a suede variation, as well as in twill or canvas. Sometimes the materials are padded, sometimes printed with Hawaii, floral or camouflage patterns. Toned-down versions of colours like peach, lemon, olive and mint come with accents on seams or laces. Natural-coloured laces underline the aged look of the Chucks with floral design. And especially for the girls there is also the Dainty model, a narrower Chuck update, in a new ballerina version. Bring on the summer!
There’s life in the old dog yet: while others are announcing the demise of premium denim, PRPS is currently back on the fast lane. Established in 2003 by former Nike designer Donwan Harrell in New York as the stronghold of the ultimate jeans, the label has managed the move from the backsides of Hollywood celebrities onto the shelves of the world’s hippest stores. With the launch of the PRPS Noir edition they are now going one step further in the direction of ‘crème de la crème’ and launching a range of luxurious, dyed Japan denim styles in a total of five black nuances, which not only come with an exclusive black leather patch, but some also with studded variations. The collection is only available to purchase in a few selected shops worldwide, including 14oz. Berlin. Depending on the style, the prices range from 500 to 1300 euros.
www.camelactive.de
www.levismadeandcrafted.com
www.converse.com
www.prpsgoods.com
Camel Active
Feeling down
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short cuts
04/2012
Rich & Royal
the aristocracy oF colours
Whether raw denim or lightweight cord, whether elegant stretch-satin or robust jersey – for the jeans specialists from Tribeca New York summer 2013 is going to be one thing for sure: extremely colourful. And that applies to both the men’s and the women’s collections. The colour palette of relaxed chinos, skinny or casually cut jeans, striped and checked shirts, tees, tops, blazers, biker leather jackets, blouses and gilets ranges from gentle orange, white, blue and apricot down to olive, dark red and beige. Plus there is also a brand new selection of new and exclusive washes and extensive detailing including elaborate prints, understated stitching and highquality wooden buttons. A small range of printed summer scarves adds the finishing touches.
They’ve only been on the market for six years and they’re already wearing a crown. Established in 2006 by the brothers Patrick and Denis Stupp in Stuttgart, Rich & Royal is meanwhile one of the fastest growing fashion brands in Germany – and a glimpse at the ladies’ and men’s styles of the upcoming spring/summer 2013 collection reveals why. As well as a chic range of printed and in part tie-dye tops, tees, long-sleeves and blazers, fine blouses, light knitwear, lavish 60slook dresses, slim-fit jackets, leather jackets and trench coats they’re also offering an extensive trouser collection, which includes denims with the most diverse washes, colours and print details from chinos down to shorts. It pretty much goes without saying that attention to detail is always in the foreground and it’s all a very colourful affair with orange, red, rosé, yellow, light green and vibrant pink.
www.tribeca-jeans.com
www.richandroyal.de
Tribeca New York
summer sun
Tommy Hilfiger
PreP talk
With the styles of their spring/summer 2013 range the denim experts from M.O.D. are once again proving that authentic jeans can only result from the combination of history and the courage to experiment. Fantastic washes meet exclusive materials and elaborate cuts meet resourceful finishes that give the indigo fabric a whole new maturity. And they’ve also been stepping on the gas in the non-denim department: while the girl’s line is more colourful and bright than ever before with floral print tops and dresses, the look for the boys mainly revolves around specially finished tees and a wide palette of shirts and jackets. A wellrounded collection.
Everything remains different in the house of Hilfiger. For the upcoming spring/summer 2013 season the label is once again delving deep into the soul of the classic US-American casual look and combining tradition with rebellion with high-quality fabrics, innovative details and tailoring, a fine flair for colours and stylistic historical awareness. While the men’s line is clearly influenced by cricket, with sporty regatta jackets, college blazers, knitted ties, suede bomber jackets, chinos, denims, sweaters, tees and shirts, the girls are setting sail and heading out onto the high seas. The look remains uncompromisingly American with oversized blouses, lace-trimmed shirt dresses, cable stitch jumpers, casual silk suits, tops and a trouser collection. In combination with the new footwear and accessories line, simply unbeatable.
www.mod-denim.com
www.tommy.com
M.O.D.
Back to the roots
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RETAIL
Retail
SuPeRMARkeT BELGRADE
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MuLéH NEW YORk
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COMMON PeOPLe MExICO CITY
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RETAIL suPermarket, Belgrade
04/2012
Something new iS RiSing in the eaSt TExT Gerlind Hector PHOTOS Ana Kostic
Change is afoot between the east and the West! In the middle of Serbia’s capital city Belgrade there is a ‘supermarket’ that really lives up to its name and is putting the usual discount stores in the shade. And as well as fashion, customers can also make the most of the spacious relaxation zone, followed by a hearty portion of ‘pita sa sirom’. Belgrade is booming! Serbia’s metropolis is one of the oldest cities in Europe. Gone are the days when the so-called gateway to the Balkans was a permanent problem area, gone are the years of high unemployment and lack of perspectives. Now they’re hard at work polishing up the city 72
to its former splendour: instead of emigrating, Belgrade’s youth is preferring to invest in the future at home. Slavko Markovic is part of this new generation who feel at home in the globalised world yet still want to cultivate their own roots. The word ‘Supermarket’ in big Cyrillic letters hangs resplendent next to the entrance to his concept store at Višnjiceva no. 10, which is in no way inferior to its role models in Paris, Berlin or New York. On an area of 1400 m² the store offers everything a hipster could possibly want, from fashion to interior design down to heavenly relaxation packages. In the 350 m² ‘Relax-Zone’ an expert shiatsu masseur will turn your shopping trip into an
invigorating experience, complete with lavender, bergamot or jasmine oil. With the metre-high ceilings and exposed concrete walls Supermarket seems almost futuristic. The Belgrade design studio reMiks was responsible for its international flair. The most important design feature is the way they experiment with contrasts. The basic material of concrete has been smoothly sanded on the floor, but on the walls it has been left rough and unrendered, while the light grey look stylishly matches the countless lights on silver metal tubes that adorn the ceilings. And the jewellery and fashion assortment presented by Slavko Markovic on an area of 150 m² is just as impressive. Here the
RETAIL suPermarket, Belgrade
04/2012
suPermarket VIšNJICEVA 10 11000 BELGRADE T +381 (0)11 2910942 WWW.SUPERMARkET.RS
spotlight is on both international design greats as well as aspiring young national designers: brightly coloured flip-flops by Crocs can be found alongside delicate porcelain necklaces by Belgrade ceramic artist Marija Seman. Marc Jacobs, Acne and United Nude are just some of the top draws. It’s plain to see that Markovic is not simply dishing up the usual top-selling suspects to his clientele: he is offering the extremely discerning Belgrade crowd real inspiration. When it came to choosing a name for his store, however, he didn’t want to rack his brain for too long. The old building in the centre of Belgrade, not far from the banks of the Danube, has been called ‘Supermarket’ for over 50 years. After all,
this is exactly where the country’s first big supermarket opened, back in the day when Yugoslavia was still one country and under communist rule. “I can only really remember the ‘golden years’ of communism,” says Slavko Markovic with a subtle wink. A few souvenirs like an old VW bus and some hospital equipment, placed in the middle of supermarket and used for presentation purposes – that’s where the historical reminisces end. A completely different credo applies, however, to the concept store’s integrated restaurant. As well as international dishes, it is mainly tasty Serbian treats made according to classic recipes that are served here. ‘Pita sa sirom’ for example,
delicious pies filled with feta cheese. And if that doesn’t tempt you: the cultural offer at Supermarket is also well worth a look. Star architect Rem koolhaas has been known to do readings, and accordion virtuoso Misko Plavi has given concerts here. Proving that Markovic’s Supermarket is a real market of superlatives!
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RETAIL muléh, new york
04/2012
welcome home TExT Gerlind Hector PHOTOS Muléh/Pepper Watkins
From a fund manager to a lifestyle specialist – Christopher Reiter is an American with Austrian roots whose heart beats for Indonesia. Got that?! Sounds like the perfect ingredients for a successful store concept that promises plenty of inspiration … Java is not just the name of a programming language, but also the main island of Indonesia. Christopher Reiter knows that of course, as he spent a few years there, in the hustle and bustle of the capital city Jakarta. “I miss the tropics a little, especially the controlled chaos and the warm-heartedness of the people,” enthuses the US citizen who was born to Austrian parents. He has always been open to new things. But if you’re thinking he has followed the usual route to get to where he is today, you’ll have to think again. Although Reiter did complete a degree in finance at San Diego State University and worked for several years as a fund manager in San Francisco, at weekends he sold second-hand clothing at flea markets, which is where he discovered his true passion: selling. Christopher Reiter is meanwhile the proud 74
owner of Muléh in New York. For him this was just as much a stroke of fate as it was the next logical step from his previous professional career. In Javanese “Muléh” means “to come home” – and the customers at Reiter’s fashion and furniture stores should also feel very much at home: as if they’ve just arrived at the home of a dear friend with taste and style. And it’s certainly a concept that has worked well: since 1999 the dynamic American has owned a store of the same name in Washington D.C., which is also very successful. So setting up a second branch in New York was definitely overdue, but Reiter took his time until everything was one-hundred percent perfect. Muléh is located right in the heart of New York’s trendy Meatpacking District and only seems ultra-clean and styled at first sight. But once inside, you’ll discover a warm-hearted atmosphere with a cosy rug, Asian-style rattan furniture and unique designer fashion. If you like, you can also lounge on the soft sofa and admire the effective lighting – including filigree lamp constructions by Ango from Thailand alongside modern plasma lights by Hive from Los Angeles. Christopher Reiter, who already ran a home
design boutique in Jakarta for a few years, knows his stuff when it comes to real quality – whether in terms of furniture or fashion: “My concept is based on the assumption that it doesn’t make much difference whether I am dressing myself or decorating my apartment. Both are creative processes, which have the same idea behind them.” This is why the product selection at Muléh seems very personal. It’s easy to see that someone has carefully considered every item and how it should be presented and whether everything matches – whereby the range is very unusual for US standards. There is menswear and womenswear by Ter et Bantine, a brand based in the Italian countryside near Ravenna, as well as Maison Martin Margiela and Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label. Not to mention furniture by Dedon from Lüneburg in Germany and kenneth Cobonpue. The Philippine industrial designer was recently called “rattan’s first great virtuoso” by ‘Time Magazine’ and sets great store by the use of natural materials and the most exclusive craftsmanship. Sustainable, avant-garde, creative – all three factors are utmost priorities for Christopher
RETAIL muléh, new york
04/2012
muléh GANSEVOORT STREET 10 10014 NEW YORk T +1 212 5240220 MULEH.COM
Reiter. And New York’s clientele, who are spoilt for choice, are grateful to him for this. But the Muléh owner refuses to rest on his laurels. You’re much more likely to spot him jetting around the globe, always on the search for new inspiration. Nevertheless, if you ask him what his favourite piece of furniture is, or his favourite restaurant, he responds with: “There’s no doubt about it: the furniture I love most is my own Indonesian bed, and the best-tasting food actually comes from my own kitchen.”
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RETAIL common PeoPle, mexico city
04/2012
el optimiSmo foR the people TExT Gerlind Hector
Max and Monika from Mexico – even the sound of their names is enough to put you in a good mood! And because the dynamic couple have so many things they like, in Mexico City they created what is perhaps the country’s most exceptional concept store. Common People is flamboyant, fun and full of chili-hot ideas. Let’s hear it for the Mayan calendar! For Mexico’s tourism industry December 2012 is guaranteed to be a profitable business. After all, the first adamant believers are supposedly already setting off to witness the big apocalypse showdown right at the source. But it’s going to take more than that to impress the approx. nine million inhabitants of the country’s capital, Mexico City. Whether smog alarms or permanent earthquake risks – in the South American metropolis you’re just happy if you manage to find a little oasis of tranquility. And you have a good chance of that in the highend district of Polanco, where mainly well-heeled Mexicans reside next to foreign embassies, museums and modern shopping malls. Architecturally speaking, the area offers up mainly 76
plain buildings from the 60s and 70s. But hidden between them is also the odd gem dating back to colonial times. For example at 149 Emilio Castelar: for years Monika Biringer and Max Feldman passed by this address daily on the way to their nearby fabric shop. “We really liked this magnificent building from the 40s,” says Monika. In fact they liked it so much that they snapped it up at the first available opportunity and in November 2010 opened ‘Common People’ – the Mexican answer to Colette in Paris. On an area of around 500 m² Monika and Max have created a unique atmosphere that exudes pure joie de vivre. And, the name says it all: everyone should feel cordially invited to shop here – providing of course they have a pronounced sense of humour and individuality. The rooms, of which no two are alike, are spread over several floors. You can stroll through a classicist salon with ornamental door frames, stuccoed ceiling and fireplace, or into a highly modern, surreallooking space, which, with its cassette shelves reaching up as far as the oval ceiling, emanates an almost sacred atmosphere. And just when you’re thinking it can’t be topped, suddenly you’ll
find yourself in a rainforest-like green space, next to an antique bathtub filled with flowers. This must be what Queen Semirarmis felt like wandering around her legendary hanging gardens in the heart of Babylon. There are not only bizarre curiosities to discover at Common People though, but also well-known luxury labels: fashion by Prada, Dior and Comme des Garçons is presented alongside casual sneakers by Converse. Still relatively unknown in Europe, as it hasn’t been available on the continent, is the imaginative womenswear by Argentinean Carolina k, which proves that typical South American craftsmanship and modern fashion make the perfect duo. But fashion is not all Common People has to offer: elegant furniture by Vitra can be found next to lovingly restored vintage pieces and is complemented by books, CDs, cosmetics and plenty of décor items – not to mention the offer of babywear and toys, whose bright, cheerful colours leave absolutely no doubt as to their Mexican origin. ‘Uncommon things for common people’ – Monika Biringer and Max Feldman fill this motto with passion. And, last but not least, also in terms
RETAIL common PeoPle, mexico city
04/2012
common PeoPle EMILIO CASTELAR 149 11560 MExICO CITY T +52 55 52810800 WWW.COMMONPEOPLE.COM.Mx
of gastronomy: once you have made yourself comfortable in the adjoining outdoor restaurant, you certainly won’t be in any hurry to leave: the exquisite menu is just as inspiring as the rest of Common People. So just in case the world does actually come to an end on 21 December, you should definitely make sure you’ve sampled the divine nut cheesecake with vanilla ice cream first. 77
T +39 055 36931 F +39 055 3693200 uomo@pittimmagine.com
photo.Michele De Andreis design.Laboratorium MMXII
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Fashion
04/2012
THuNDeR BIRDS GUNNAR TUFTA
94
faShion
JOLIe FLeuRIe NEDA RAJABI
80
AS GOOD AS kNIT GeTS NADJA DEL DO
88
PALe RIDeRS SHUHEI SHINE
106
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PhoTograPhy Neda Rajabi www.NedaraJabi.de sTyliNg aude jamieR www.audeJamier.com hair & make-uP mischka haRt www.basics-berliN.de model j.j. www.m4models.de
T-shirT Post Diem JackeT scotch & soDa skirT Prose stuDio Necklace sabrina Dehoff shoes maDs Dinesen
dress maDs81Dinesen headPiece Augustin teboul
overall LaenD Phuengkit coaT bLame headPiece augustin tebouL
Jacket & skirt Issever BahrI Fur Jacket DIesel shoes MaDs DInesen headpiece Augustin teboul
dress & Jacket MartIn nIklas WIeser shoes scholl headpiece Augustin teboul
shirt & Jumper Mahrenholz Jeans replay headpiece augustIn teBoul
Blouse scotch & soDa pants MaDs DInesen necklace saBrIna Dehoff headpiece augustIn teBoul
turtleneck Dress MonkI Jacket prose stuDIo shorts replay shoes MaDs DInesen
Pullover Closed Shorts H&M Cardigan Lala Berlin Ear clip Maria Black Socks Falke Shoes Weekday
Pullover Hien Le Leggings H&M Shoes Dr. Martens
Pullover Yerse Skirt Mother Socks Falke Shoes Weekday
Knit collar Cacharel
Collar Yerse
Photography Nadia Del Dò www.nadiadeldo.com Styling Josepha Rodriguez Hair & Make-up Carolin Jarchow cargocollective.com/carolinjarchow Model Olga Cerpita @ m4 models
Pullover Rika Slip Cheap Monday
Body & glasses Cheap Monday Bra Wolford Denim Edwin
photography Gunnar Tufta www.gtufta.com stylist ร sa Lundstrรถm www.asalundstrom.com hair & Make-up James McMahon www.nakedartists.com Models Ricki www.nevsmodels.co.uk & Amy G www.selectmodel.com stylist assistent Rachel Allen photo assistent Stephan Ko
Jacket & Bra Cheap Monday pants Maison Scotch necklace Sabrina Dehoff
t-shirt Barbour Denim shirt Replay Denim shorts White Seal by Replay glasses Mykita Bracelet Delfina Delettrez Boots Zign
Denim shirt Replay Jacket Diesel Jeans Red Seal by Replay Boots Stylist’s own
Jumpsuit Diesel necklace Cheap Monday Bangle Maria Black Bracelet & rings Topshop glasses & shoes Stylist’s own
Dress Rich & Royal Shorts Replay Rings & foot chain Topshop Shoes Cheap Monday
Top Cheap Monday Pants Honest by Bruno Pieters Ring & bracelet Cheap Monday Shoes Stylist’s own
Body Wolford Shorts Replay Bracelet Cheap Monday
Tank top Edwin Jacket Wrangler Jeans ADenim Glasses Mykita Earring Bjørg Necklace (long) Cheap Monday Necklace (short) Maria Black Shoes Stylist’s own
Knitwear Blauer USA Pants Honest by Bruno Pieters Necklace Maria Black
Jacket Mavi Skirt Lee Bra Wolford Earring Topshop
Tank top Edwin Jacket Wrangler Jeans ADenim Glasses Mykita Shirt WorkEarring in Progress Bjørg Pants Necklace Honest (long)byCheap BrunoMonday Pieters Necklace (short) Maria Black Necklace (long) Shoes Cheap Stylist’s Monday own
Jacket Diesel Shirt Cheap Monday Pants Red Seal by Replay Necklace (thin) Maria Black Necklace (long) Cheap Monday Shoes Model’s own Blouse Diesel Black Gold Denim Replay Necklace & bracelets Topshop Shoes Cheap Monday
Jumpsuit Diesel Necklace Cheap Monday Bangle Maria Black Bracelet & rings Topshop Glasses & shoes Stylist’s own
Photography SHuHei SHi ne www.shuheishine.com Styling Marianna FrannaiS www.mariannafrannais.com Hair HerMan Ho www.hermanho.com Make-up Julia WilSon www.juliawilsonmakeup.com Models Pav, CHriStian von PFeFer , deWi reeS www.selectmodel.com Photographer’s assistant yoSHi MiCHi Saiki Fashion assistant GianniS MoS
Blanket & necklace PeBBle lond on Gloves P ortoBello Market
Shirt BarBour Harness Marti na SPetlova Hat Beyond retro Bracelet Maria Piana
Jacket reliGion Waistcoat aGnèS B. Shirt Bl auer uSa trousers aGi & SaM necklace PeBBle lond on Belt Beyond retro Hat rokit
Jacket edWin Waistcoat Beyond retro Shirt aGi & SaM Gloves P108 ortoBello Market
Coat e .tau tz Cardigan Bl auer uSa Shirt izzue trousers edWi n Shoes Ben SHerMan necklace PeBBle lond on
Coat alex Mat tSSon Shirt & cardigan BarBour trousers nudie JeanS Shoes 109rokit
Coat Wo oyounGMi Shirt izzue Hat Beyond retro necklaces Culiet ta
Jacket edWin x l avenHaM Jumper Beyond retro trousers Wo oyounGMi Hat rokit Bag P ortoBello Market
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Waistcoat SCotCH & Soda Shirt MiHarayaSuHiro trousers a CHild oF tHe JaGo Bow tie Beyond retro
Blazer a CHild oF tHe JaGo Shirt Bl auer uSa trousers alex Mat tSSon Hat rokit
Jacket JaMeS Ho Ck undershirt under underWear Hat 111rokit
where to FinD us – selecteD stoRes
04/2012
Selected StoreS
Where To Find Us?
Do You ReaD Me? Auguststr. 28 D-10117 Berlin Heil Quelle PAnnierstr. 40 D-12047 Berlin K PResse+BucH FernBAhnhoF Zoo D-10623 Berlin K PResse+BucH Am ostBAhnhoF D-10243 Berlin K PResse+BucH BAhnhoF sPAnDAu D-13597 Berlin K PResse+BucH FlughAFen schöneFelD D-12521 Berlin K PResse+BucH FlughAFen tegel D-13405 Berlin
InternatIonal
HDs Retail BoxBerger str. 3-9 D-12681 Berlin
scHMitt & HaHn FrAnkFurt hAuPtBAhnhoF D-60051 FrAnkFurt
HDs Retail FlughAFen tegel D-13405 Berlin
scHMitt & HaHn giessen hAuPtBAhnhoF D-35390 giessen
soDa. inteRnationale MaGazine & BücHeR rumForDstr. 3 D-80469 münchen
K PResse+BucH Bonn hAuPtBAhnhoF D-53111 Bonn
K PResse+BucH FernBAhnhoF AltonA D-22765 hAmBurg
K PResse+BucH BAhnhoF münchen-ost D-81667 münchen
K PResse+BucH BremerhAven hAuPtBAhnhoF D-27570 BremerhAven
K PResse+BucH hAmBurg hAuPtBAhnhoF D-20099 hAmBurg
K PResse+BucH münchen hAuPtBAhnhoF D-80335 münchen
K PResse+BucH Bremen hAuPtBAhnhoF D-28195 Bremen
K PResse+BucH hh-DAmmtor D-20354 hAmBurg
K PResse+BucH münchen-PAsing BAhnhoF D-81241 münchen
K PResse+BucH DortmunD hAuPtBAhnhoF D-44137 DortmunD
K PResse+BucH hAmBurg FlughAFen D-22335 hAmBurg
scHMitt & HaHn BAhnhoFsPlAtZ 9 D-90004 nürnBerg
DRaWn & QuaRteRlY P.o. Box 48056 montréAl, QuéBec cAnADA 4s8 h2v
K PResse+BucH DresDen hAuPtBAhnhoF D-01069 DresDen
HDs Retail FlughAFen hAnnover D-30669 hAnnover
scHMitt & HaHn FlughAFen nürnBerg D-90411 nürnBerg
aRounD tHe WoRlD 148 west 37th st. nY-10018 new York citY
RelaY – HDs FlughAFen DüsselDorF D-40474 DüsselDorF
HDs Retail hAnnover hAuPtBAhnhoF D-30159 hAnnover
GRaueRt KG oBerhAusen hAuPtBAhnhoF D-46045 oBerhAusen
GRaueRt GMBH DüsselDorF hAuPtBAhnhoF D-40210 DüsselDorF
BaHnHofsBucHHanDlunG heiDelBerg hAuPtBAhnhoF D-69039 heiDelBerg
K PResse+BucH stuttgArt hAuPtBAhnhoF D-70173 stuttgArt
HDs Retail FlughAFen FrAnkFurt D-60547 FrAnkFurt
falteR BücHeR & PResse hinDenBurgstr. 190 D-41061 mönchenglADBAch
WittWeR FlughAFen stuttgArt D-70629 stuttgArt
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BozaR sHoP rue rAvenstein 23 B-1000 Bruxelles MaGMa 117-119 clerkenwell roAD gB-ec1r5BY lonDon Do DesiGn c/ FernAnDo vi, 13 e-28004 mADriD PaPeRcut krukmAkArgAtAn 3 se-11851 stockholm
Connecting Global Competence
SportS. BuSineSS. ConneCted.
ISPO MunIch February 3—6, 2013 ISPO.cOM
04/2012
inDex
a cHilD of tHe JaGo www.AchilDoFthejAgo.com
JaMes HocK www.jAmeshock.co.uk
scotcH & soDa www.scotch-soDA.com
aDeniM www.A-Denim.com
lala BeRlin www.lAlABerlin.com
toPsHoP www.toPshoP.com
aGi & saM www.AgiAnDsAm.com
laenD PHuenGKit www.lAenDPhuengkit.com
unDeR unDeRWeaR www.unDerunDerweAr.com
aGnès B www.AgnesB.com
lavenHaM www.lAvenhAmjAckets.com
vlaDiMiR KaRaleev www.vlADimirkArAleev.com
alex Mattsson www.AlexmAttsson.com
lee www.lee.com
WeeKDaY www.weekDAY.se
auGustin teBoul www.Augustin-teBoul.com
MaDs Dinesen www.mADsDinesen.com
WolfoRD www.wolForD.com
BaRBouR www.BArBour.com
MaHRenHolz www.nicolemAhrenholZ.com
WHite seal BY RePlaY www.rePlAY.it
Ben sHeRMan www.BenshermAn.com
MaRia BlacK www.mAriA-BlAck.com
WoRK in PRoGRess www.workinProgress-mc.com
BeYonD RetRo www.BeYonDretro.com
MaRia Piana www.mAriAPiAnA.com
WRanGleR www.wrAngler-euroPe.com
BJøRK www.BjorgjewellerY.com
MaRtina sPetlova www.mArtinAsPetlovA.com
WooYounGMi www.wooYoungmi.com
indeX MaRtin niKlas WieseR www.mArtinniklAswieser.com
BlaueR usa www.BlAuer.it
Mavi www.mAvi.com
cacHaRel www.cAchArel.com
MiHaRaYasuHiRo www.mihArAYAsuhiro.jP
cHeaP MonDaY www.cheAPmonDAY.com
MonKi www.monki.com
closeD www.closeD.com
MotHeR www.motherDenim.com
culietta www.culiettA.com
MYKita www.mYkitA.com
Delfina DelettRez www.DelFinADelettreZ.com
nuDie Jeans www.nuDiejeAns.com
Diesel www.Diesel.com
PeBBle lonDon www.PeBBlelonDon.com
Diesel BlacK GolD www.DieselBlAckgolD.com
Post DieM www.PostDiem.Fr
DR. MaRtens www.DrmArtens.com
PRose stuDio www.Prose-stuDio.com
e. tautz www.etAutZ.com
ReD seal BY RePlaY www.rePlAY.it
eDWin www.eDwin-euroPe.com
ReliGion www.religionclothing.co.uk
falKe www.FAlke.com
RePlaY www.rePlAY.it
Hien le www.hien-le.com
RicH & RoYal www.richAnDroYAl.De
H&M www.hm.com
RiKa www.rikAint.com
Honest BY BRuno PieteRs www.honestBY.com
RoKit www.rokit.co.uk
isseveR BaHRi www.isseverBAhri.com
saBRina DeHoff www.sABrinADehoFF.com
izzue www.iZZue.com
scHoll www.mYscholl.De
YeRse www.Yerse.com
Styleguide HAMBURG interview PeteR Jensen 4 / 2012
4 / 2012
BlaMe www.BlAme-FAshion.com
Styleguide HAMBURG interview PeteR Jensen
FAShion buSineSS, brAndS And urbAn culture
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