J'N'C Magazine 4/2019

JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION

N° 78 / 4–2019

TRADE SHOW

D 15.50 EUR REST OF EUROPE 17.50 EUR SWITZERLAND 20.00 CHF

PREVIEW 2020

UNAPOLOGETIC & PROGRESSIVE HOW THE DENIM INDUSTRY IS PUSHING ITSELF TO THE NEXT LEVEL

The 24/7 high comfort pants by Alberto — high-performance fabric — temperature regulating — breathable & fast drying — uv protection — crease-free & low-iron — the perfect pants for business and leisure

alberto-pants.com

PEOPLE ARE ALREADY TALKING

naveenadenim.com

INTRODUCING THE WORLD’S

Our eco-friendly Hemp Denim is the perfect fit for you and your world.

You can exhale now.

Kingpins Amsterdam 23 - 24 October 2019 Kingpins New York 19 - 20 November 2019 Denim PV London 3 - 4 December 2019

MOST FASHIONABLE HIGH.

We’ve always placed innovation at the heart of our business.

We believe in sustainable innovation to make change.

All our garments are produced by certified manufacturing partners using sustainable methods and materials.

It’s fundamental.

So here’s the deal. Together we can take action and make real change. Let’s share our visions – with respect for people and the environment.

KNOWLEDGECOTTONAPPAREL.COM

EDITORIAL

N° 78

16-year-old climate activist Greta Thunberg is, without a doubt, one of the most controversial personalities of our time — she represents inspiration and hope but is also a threat and therefore a target too. While for many she is the face of a strong-willed generation, for others she is too naïve, too radical, too vocal, and yes, simply too young, to have an informed opinion.

I’m not going to get into the theory of how much her opinion would be worth if she were an accomplished businessman in his mid-50s, but the fact is that this planet urgently needs a change of course if it’s going to be home to future generations making their own decisions about the future.

Nonetheless, a seemingly hopeless situation invariably needs extreme measures to overthrow outdated systems. And, let’s not forget, a revolution doesn’t happen by gentle coaxing and persuasion, but by protest and discontent. The fact that we are experiencing a revolution right now seems to have passed many people by — but not the fashion industry.

One of its most progressive trailblazers is the denim market. The protagonists at the helm realised that the old paths were leading them down dead ends and it was high time for new production methods, new technologies, new outlooks, new rules and a new understanding. No sooner said than done.

For years now, manufacturers, brands and decision-makers have been working on breaking through the old structures and creating new ones.

So, for this issue we took the opportunity to speak to precisely those people. Such as Barbaros Durmaz and Tamer Akdogan from Barta Tekstil, for example, who we met in Izmir, Turkey, for a chat about the shift to sustainability and their own label (from page 58). Zaki Saleemi, from Pakistani manufacturer Rajby, is also more than aware of the urgent need for textile innovations, as he explains from page 64. Bossa’s Tayfun Akbay has clear ideas of how to steer the denim industry towards a more sustainable future (from page 68). And why jeans will be the uniform of a new rebellion is revealed to us by Jeanologia’s CEO Enrique Silla on page 66, while Ecochain’s Henk van Dop is encouraging us to think about the entire cycle on page 98.

But that’s just the tip of the iceberg of this issue of J’N’C. So take the time to read on with an open mind, following the example of ‘Greta the Great’, because we can all make this world a better place — we just have to want to do it. Enjoy reading and see you again in January!

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Cheryll Mühlen & team

CONTRIBUTORS

Silke Lambers TREND SCOUT & FASHION EDITOR New York, Strasbourg, Paris and now Berlin! For over 15 years, Silke has been travelling the world on a forecasting and reporting mission. This time she took a trip to the German capital on behalf of J’N’C for our feature article on the denim industry. She thinks fashion and future make a great team — which is why she spends her working day thinking about how best to combine the two.

Annika Duda INTERN When she’s not writing, the 21-year-old fashion journalism/media communications student from the AMD Academy of Fashion & Design in Berlin enjoys listening to German rap and looking after her horse Basti, aka ‘Schnitzel’. She is also a passionate sneaker collector and the newest member of our J’N’C editorial team.

Andreas Magino GRAPHIC DESIGNER Graphic designer, graffiti lover, supporter of Fortuna Düsseldorf, music addict, bike nerd and cat person are just a few of the many ways to describe Andreas Magino. Since our January 2019 issue, he has been responsible for the layout of J’N’C Magazine and is one of the three brains behind Düsseldorf creative agency Studio Vista.

PREMIUM is elegant, c o n t r a s t y, b i g a n d imposing. Global players represent themselves there next to newcomers from all segments. For the fashion market, PREMIUM is the most important businessplatform in Europe for women and men.

D e e p l y r o o t e d p a r t n e rships are made and maintained here as well as new impulses.

DRYKORN

DUNO

TRADE SHOW 14 – 16 JANUARY 2020 BERLIN 10DAYS / 360 CASHMERE / ABSOLUT CASHMERE / AIGNER / AMERICAN VINTAGE / ARKK COPENHAGEN ARMEDANGELS / BALDESSARINI / BLAUMAX / BUFFALO / CECILIE COPENHAGEN / COLMAR ORIGINALS / DRYKORN DUNO / ECOALF / ESSENTIEL ANTWERP / FREEBIRD / GANT / HOX / IHEART / IZIPIZI PARIS / LIU JO LI V BERG E N / L O TTUS S E / LOVE M OS C H I NO / M B Y M / M I N I M UM / M O S S CO P EN HAG EN / P EUT EREY SUN68 / VAN LAACK / VELVET BY GRAHAM&SPENCER / WOMSH / WOOL & CO. / AND MANY MORE

W W W. P R E M I U M E X H I B I T I O N S . C O M

CONTENTS 16

36

BITS & PIECES

18 BRANDS

Sam Lang, Taakk, Gauchère 24 MOST WANTED

Premiata, Unützer, Blaumann, Gestuz, Aeyde, Karhu, Asics, Roa 32 COVER FEATURE

PROGRESS WITHOUT COMPROMISE

36 COVER SHOOT

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LA VIE DE NÎMES

48 NEWCOMERS

Meredith Bullen, Boyish, A Company 54 NEWS FROM THE DENIM MILLS Orta Anadolu, Bossa, Candiani Denim, Isko, Soorty 58 DENIM INTERVIEWS

Barta Tekstil, Rajby, Jeanologia, Bossa 72 BRAND INTERVIEWS

Shu, Lee 76

FASHION SHOOT

NO RULES COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: NEDA RAJABI OUTFITS: WHYRED, G-STAR, DUBDOP, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY, ESSENTIAL, BP0110

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TRADESHOW PREVIEW

98 INSIDER OPINION

Henk van Dop, Sales Director Ecochain

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N° 78

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Cheryll Mühlen c.muehlen@jnc-net.de ART DIRECTION vista www.studiovista.de

EDITORS Cynthia Blasberg, Renée Diehl, Annika Duda, Silke Lambers, Aylin Yavuz

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14–16/01/2020 Tempelhof Hangar 4

BITS & PIECES

COMFORTABLE CLASSICS ENUGO Created from women’s stories, for women, by women.

Enugo offers a newly designed wardrobe for the modern woman, redefining men’s classic shirts and suits to offer wardrobe staples for dynamic and powerful females. The collections are comfortable and durable and made from high-quality silk, cotton and recycled wool. In order to expand on their ‘for women, by women’ approach, Enugo supports Amnesty International’s Stop Violence Against Women campaign. The aim is to create a collection that can offer comfortable classics and unique silhouettes while bringing about real change by empowering socially disadvantaged groups.

ENUGOCLOTHES.COM

THE HISTORY OF A LEGEND TRUE FIT It didn’t take long for jeans to make their way into wardrobes and people’s hearts. But their official recognition beyond the world of work took a little longer. Before 1950, jeans were mainly worn by workers as denim was a durable and versatile fabric. With gorgeous fashion photography and advertisements that we would affectionately describe as vintage, True Fit by Ginko Press is therefore a must for every serious jeans collector and lover.

GINGKOPRESS.COM

TWO ICONS

TOMMY HILFIGER Fans of Tommy Hilfiger’s classic nautical and utilityinspired apparel can look forward to a modern update in the spirit of the American pioneers next spring.

Jeans, blazers, chinos and polos are being reinterpreted in innovative materials such as Cool-Max, a temperature-regulating fabric, while prints from the Hilfiger archives are given a new lease of life on sweaters and T-shirts.

The brand’s classic colour palette of navy, red, camel and olive green is broken up by rich yellow, striking orange and bright turquoise, imbuing the collection with a poppy vibe.

NIKE X LEVIS Nike by Levi’s is entering its next round. 2018 saw the release of a Jordan model that customers could design themselves, but this time both brands are really upping the ante: with Levi’s by You. That means innovative personalisation options like laser engraving and digital customising expanding on the customising offer with typical Levi’s materials. Leather, denim, cord and wool fabrics can be used to individually design the Air Force 1 High, Air Force 1 Low or Air Max 90. In addition to the customisations available, the Capsule Collection Nike by Levi’s is also being launched on the market. The collection includes two Nike legends: the Nike Air Force 1 High and Nike Air Force 1 Low. The Air Force 1 Low has been given a classic denim-blue Levi’s update featuring the laser-engraved logos of both brands. And the same goes for the hi-top variation, except that this one comes in an unconventional pink tone. Levi’s by You — a creative project that sets no limits on individuality and is a must for anyone who believes that personal style is something that can’t be found on the peg.

TOMMY.COM

LEVI.COM

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MODERN AMERICAN PIONEERS

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DADDY’S GIRL

AN EVENING WITH FRIENDS SCHEPPERHEYN Berlin designer Verena Schepperheyn is continuing to spread gender-neutral vibes with her new unisex collection for spring/summer 2020.

Just like the autumn/winter 2019 collection, ‘An Evening With Friends’ includes short-sleeved button-up shirts, wide-legged cargo pants, workwear jackets and printed scarves. While the shirts come in muted tones, the collection also includes pieces emblazoned with food-inspired graphics in all-over prints. A short-sleeved shirt and a longsleeved sweater, for example, feature a purple onion print blown up so large that its texture becomes an abstract design. Workwear-meets- streetwear silhouettes transform the lightweight outerwear for SS20 into a playful variation of classics that should fit perfectly in any wardrobe.

FILLES À PAPA It’s not easy to define the inimitable style of Filles à Papa.

After all, just a few short years after it was established in 2010, the Belgian label has succeeded in creating a series of collections that each have their own distinctive style, but maintain the common thread of rebellion and make people sit up and take notice. According to the founders and sisters, Carol and Sarah Piron, Filles à Papa is an attitude with a consciously rebellious streak. In their autumn/winter 2019 collection, brown jeans adorned with beige sequins and oversized sleeveless denim biker jackets embellished with motocross patches are complemented by cowboy boots and thigh-high boots in the all-over denim look.

FILLESAPAPA.COM

IN THE BAG EASTPACK Raf Simon’s dramatic approach combined with Eastpak’s functionality make for one exciting collaboration! That’s right, the American bag label has joined forces with the Belgian designer once again. Inspired by British military uniforms and the tension of love and conflict, their four-piece collection boasts strong shapes and romantic details. High-end fabrics, rich embroidery and contrasting colours bring a whole new look to an army rucksack and an exciting update to classic models like the Waistbag.

SCHEPPERHEYN.COM

EASTPAK.COM

GANNI Ten years ago, Instagram went live for the first time, Steve Jobs announced the release of the first iPad and Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup were just embarking on their careers as creative directors at Ganni. With the SS20 collection, the designer duo are now celebrating their milestone anniversary at the cult Copenhagen label. To reflect this, Ganni returned to the same location of its SS15 show — the tennis court of Copenhagen’s Mercur Hotel. The new collection had a distinctive 70s vibe about it with knitted waistcoats worn over shirts with large collars, knee-high animal print boots styled with lederhosen and miniskirts, and variations on Ganni’s iconic classic — the floor-length wrap dress. The anniversary collection is not only proving its adaptability, but also showing how essential the label’s identity is: work, weekend, wherever.

So on that note, here’s to another ten years!

N° 78

A GLIMPSE INTO THE PAST

GANNI.COM

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BITS & PIECES

MINIMALISTIC CHIC

INDIA MEETS BERLIN MANAKKAA PROJECT Indian craftsmanship meets Berlin flair. With their timeless, minimalist and monochrome designs, Berlin fair fashion label Manakkaa Project combines both. Silk blouses, cashmere jumpers, sweatshirts, trousers and jackets stand out with their harmonious contrast of clear, cool silhouettes and richly detailed, feminine embroideries in modern black, all testifying to great craftsmanship. But for the creatives behind Manakkaa Project, Stefanie Blank and Valerie Thiesmeyer, the product is not the only focus. Through a social project they discovered the world of Indian pearl embroidery, which is why sustainable materials, fair working conditions and traditional craftsmanship are decisive factors in their designs.

ARMEDANGELS This Cologne label sets clear benchmarks in sustainability: no exploitation, no ridiculous use of chemicals, no cheap mass-produced goods. And their spring/summer 2020 collection certainly isn’t making any compromises either. Armedangels is continuing to discover its sense of minimalism, following the slow-living ethos. Like the men’s ‘Close to Nature’ collection, the women’s ‘Pursuit of Happiness’ collection is inspired by utility and comfort, both of which are reflected in the layering, drop shoulders and laid-back combo of hoodies and overshirts. Uncomplicated kaftan dresses, tunics and cardigans are all made from this season’s new material Tencel Twill in a washed look. The lightweight, pleasant-feeling, soft material is a mix of half Lyocell and half viscose. Warm, earthy colours and all-over prints give both collections the perfect summer feel.

ARMEDANGELS.DE

STILL ALIVE AND KICKING THE ILLUSTRATOR Have digital tools and programmes heralded the demise of the illustrator profession? On the contrary! Steven Heller begins this book by going back on his prediction from around five years ago that the art of illustration would be killed off, enthusiastically explaining how we have now entered its new golden age. Together with fellow editor Julius Wiedemann, Heller is presenting a compelling snapshot of the work of 100 internationally relevant illustrators, which includes short profiles and style-defining examples of their creations. Among them is Christoph Niemann, who works for The New Yorker and Die Zeit and designed the book’s cover, as well as artists who are not (yet) so well known, such as Robin Eisenberg and Olimpia Zagnoli.

MANAKKAAPROJECT.COM

TASCHEN.COM

REDEFINING FEMININITY BLANCHE Beauty, naturalness, diversity and sustainable from head to toe: that was the motto of this year’s SS20 collection by Danish label Blanche, which made its debut by opening Copenhagen Fashion Week. Sensual cuts and fine fabrics were clearly at the focus here, with several masculine elements, such as power suits and oversized silhouettes, for good measure. But since denim remains the brand’s key element, Blanche continues to experiment and take the ‘blue cotton’ to new heights. Micro shorts and triangle tops are the collection’s stand-out trends.

In addition to the natural and cool colour palette of sorbet shades including menthol, coral, purple and pink, the models who presented them were particularly striking. In addition to using models of different age groups and body ideals, male models also walked the catwalk for the purely womenswear label for the first time. True to their motto.

BLANCHECPH.COM

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SEEK IS EDGY, STRONG AND UNPOLISHED. ONCE AGAIN, IT‘S ABOUT CONTEMPORARY S TAT E M E N T D E S I G N S , N E W C L A S S I C S , DENIM AND SPORTSWEAR. SEEK IS THE FUN E V ENT FOR T HE FASHION COMMUN IT Y T H AT K N O W S W H E R E I T ‘ S G O I N G , PROMOTES SALES AND UNITES THE P R E S E N T A N D F U T U R E G E N E R AT I O N S OF DECISION-MAKERS. SEEK IS UNC O N V E N T I O N A L A N D D E F I N I T E LY N O T BORING.

T R A D E S H O W, 1 4 – 1 6 J A N U A RY 2 0 2 0 , B E R L I N

VEJA

KINGS OF INDIGO

SANDQVIST

R E S P O N S I B L E C O N T E M P O R A RY FA S H I O N ALPHA INDUSTRIES / BEN SHERMAN / BROOKS ENGLAND / CHAMPION REVERSE WEAVE / CROSSLEY / DEDICATED EASTPAK / E D WIN / F ELI S I / F RED P ERRY / H AN K J Ø B EN HAVN / HEIMAT / HERS CHEL S UP P LY CO . / HU N TE R S O N JUNGLE FOLK / KLITMØLLER COLLECTIVE / LEE / LY L E & S CO T T / MASKA / MELAWEAR / MERZ B. SCHWANEN O MY BAG / PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS / PEOPLE TREE / PORTER-YOSHIDA & CO. / RED WING SHOES SANDQVIST / TANNER GOODS / THINKING MU / UNIVERSAL WORKS / US RUBBER COMPANY / AND MANY MORE

W W W. S E E K E X H I B I T I O N S . C O M

BRANDS N° 78

TIMELESS TREASURES SAM LANG Although it hasn’t been around for long, this label is already a firm fixture on the streetwear scene. Only established a few months ago by the two friends Laura and Ivanka from Berlin, Sam Lang have committed themselves to a conscientious and holistic way of creating fashion, which is of course reflected in their brand. The graphic, generously cut designs of their debut collection are created in Berlin and produced in Portugal. Special features include adjustable fastening techniques and folds offering the wearer a fit that can adapt to changing body sizes. In short: Sam Lang makes favourite pieces that are in it for the long haul — in more ways than one. A conscious choice of dyes, high-quality workmanship, timeless cuts and ecologically certified materials ensure that the clothing is made to last, can be worn over several seasons and even passed on to bring pleasure to other wearers. Sharing is caring, after all. /ad SAMLANG.DE

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BRANDS N° 78

EDGY SUSTAINABILITY TAAKK This Japanese fashion label was launched in 2012 by designer Takuya Morikawa after a seven-year stint at menswear label Issey Miyake, which also comes from Japan. Morikawa’s designs have a relaxed aesthetic, with experimental silhouettes made from highly modern fabrics.

Influenced by materials, colour and craftsmanship, Morikawa draws on themes like environmental protection and sustainability as the inspiration for his SS20 collection, which includes eye-catching prints that resemble oil-polluted water, innovatively tailored suits, round-neck jumpers and graphic coats. The range seamlessly blends classic menswear with streetwear.

And this season the fashion house is also offering a versatile range of T-shirts, shirts, buttondowns, blazers, long coats and parkas. The result is a 30-piece ready-to-wear collection that questions our traditional ideas of reality. Now that’s how you establish a new fashion zeitgeist! /ad TAAKK.JP

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BRANDS N° 78

OOZING COOL GAUCHÈRE The word ‘gauchère’ is French for ‘left-handed’, just like the owner of this eponymous French fashion label. Effortless elegance, clear lines and spirited femininity are what set the label’s intuitive designs apart. This common thread also runs through next spring’s collection, which presents the Gauchère woman in all her many facets: power suits with oversized shoulders and structured shirts exude strength and confidence, while flowing silhouettes reflect a certain vulnerability. Raglan sleeves and pleated structures give the designs a sculptural feel and underline the label’s couture influence. The combination of matt and shiny fabrics adds depth and, in addition to the expressive colour palette, gives the collections their very own voice. Gauchère’s signature colour scheme of white, cream, grey and black is jazzed up by a juicy raspberry tone, vibrant red and bright aqua — but the overall look is still always cool, calm and collected /ay GAUCHERE-PARIS.COM

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PHOTOGRAPHY VALENTIN MÜHL PRODUCTION CHERYLL MÜHLEN

MOST WANTED

The chunky sneaker trend is showing no sign of letting up and this Premiata model proves why. Its silhouette is more classic compared to the usual chunky styles, yet still chunky enough to make a clear statement. Just like the rest of the shoe, where several trends clash. With its silver glitter, silver laces, yellow highlights and lettering, the DRAKE model goes by the ‘go big, or go home’ ethos.

Still managing to look cool in the process is no easy feat, but the high-end Italian label is taking it all in its stride.

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PREMIATA.IT

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MOST WANTED

Pardon the cliché, but Chris de Burgh’s song ‘Lady in Red’ is the first thing that springs to mind after seeing these elegant slip-on ballerinas from Unützer’s SS20 collection. The rich cherry red on smooth embossed leather with faux croc look and decorative bow on the pointed toe will even convince the ballerina sceptics among you — and we know because we had our team here in the office test them out! Pair the BALLERINA with a pair of cropped jeans, Parisienne-style, and you’ll be ready to pirouette your way into the new season.

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UNUETZER.COM

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MOST WANTED

These boots are made for walking.

German jeans brand Blaumann has made it its mission to not only make authentic denims, but also the matching footwear. Or to be precise, a men’s boot, made at Germany’s oldest shoe factory with a doublestitch welt. And the results are certainly worth the work: simplicity in its purest form that not only stands out with its timeless design, but also its first-rate production. The uppers, inner lining and laces are leather, and the selvedge pull tab at the back is made of Japanese denim. The perfect canvas on which to put your own stamp over time.

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BLAUMANN-JEANSHOSEN.DE

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MOST WANTED

The NESSGZ BOOT by Gestuz are definitely what we would call en vogue. After all, they represent one of the biggest trend comebacks in the world of fashion footwear: cowboy boots. A fashion statement you’ll either love or hate! Yet, hardly any other item of footwear embodies such an authentic denim feeling as these boots. And if you opt for a pair in white, like these ones, you can be sure you’ll be leading the way in the fashion stakes.

The outer and inner materials are 100 percent leather. The 7 cm heel adds an 80s vibe and thanks to the subtle decorative stitching, you’ll definitely look more classy than kitschy.

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GESTUZ.COM

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MOST WANTED

Ankle boots are our undisputed allrounders! They look the part with skinny, mom or boyfriend jeans, cropped or wide leg cuts; with dresses, skirts and shorts. Basically, everything! Like AMELIA by German shoe label Aeyde, which boasts goatskin on the inside and a leather outer sole with rubber inlay. With their practical 7.5 cm block heel, eye-catching signature square toe and top seam detail that creates the ‘Multi Python’ look on the 100 percent calf leather, this boot, with its rock’n’roll attitude, has well and truly earned its place on our Most Wanted list.

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AEYDE.COM

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MOST WANTED

Need a new sneaker tip? How about Karhu from Finland!

The Karhu FUSION 2.0 is being released at the beginning of November and is a remake of the running shoe from 1996, for which the brand even brought the original designer back on board. Needless to say, not much had to be changed. Details like the label on the tongue and the rubberised collar print remain the same. Only the sole unit and upper measurements have been revised to make the 90s sneaker more appealing for 2020. Our Most Wanted in midnight blue and turquoise with lemon highlights is the ideal finishing touch to either wintry or summery looks.

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KARHU.COM

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MOST WANTED

There’s only one way to beat the dreariness of autumn and that’s colour! But who says it always has to be eye-poppingly bright?

With the launch of its lilac-coloured ASICS x GORE-TEX GEL-KAYANO 5 360 sneaker on 26 October, Asics is showing us how it’s done.

And to make sure everyone knows who is upping their performance game, Gore-Tex branding adorns the entire inner side of the upper. But Asics wouldn’t be Asics if the 90sinspired shoe didn’t also boast comfort and style aplenty. The slightly elasticated midsole ensures the ultimate cushioning with every step — and thanks to their contemporary design, you can be sure that you’re stepping out in style.

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ASICS.COM

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MOST WANTED

The whole ‘function meets fashion’ combo never gets old. And the best proof of this are the ongoing developments in the footwear sector, where hybrids have been causing a stir for quite some time now. Take these sneakerhiking boots, which experiment with shape and colour without forgoing the practical aspect. At first glance, the DAIQUIRI OFF WHITE by Roa is a symbiosis of sock-sneaker and trekking shoe.

Which doesn’t really come as much of a surprise as Roa is a brand for mountain enthusiasts — and the Italian label’s shoes are indeed perfect for trekking and biking. And if tackling rough terrain isn’t really your thing, they also look good in more urban environments.

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ROA-HIKING.COM

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COVER FEATURE

PROGRESS WITHOUT COMPROMISE Denim is a dirty business and a major offender of environmental damage. No other textile product has such a complex supply chain or such a significant market clout as jeans.

But many of the steps in its supply chain are crying out for change. Rarely have there been so many opportunities to take a market — from the raw materials to customer communications — to the next level. And it needs to be a team effort, with everyone in the business doing everything they can to achieve that.

TEXT SILKE LAMBERS

J Jeans are a product that never stands still: the denim market is constantly in motion and it’s hard to imagine most fashion collections without them. Not only are they durable and incredibly versatile, they also look good. The fashionable jeans styles we know and love today evolved from the original utilitarian workwear and simple 50s styles. As an everyday basic and indispensable wardrobe staple, denim still represents casualness and youth to this day, but has also found its way into haute couture. Approximately two billion pairs of jeans are meanwhile sold worldwide every year, quite impressive considering denim was still banned at American schools in the 1960s. Over the course of its development, the denim industry has taken a round-the-world trip, from Asia to Europe and America and back again. And now the time has come for denim to reinvent itself again and create a blueprint for change. In an era when young climate activists are protesting and asking uncomfortable questions, it’s time for jeans to face reality and step up to the mark.

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THE RISE OF GENERATION GRETA

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No other topic is preoccupying the denim industry more right now than that of sustainability and climate protection. The

millions of young people taking to the streets for Fridays for Future are heralding a new generation and turning the sustainability niche (who remembers the LOHAS?) into a mainstream lifestyle. They represent the new generation of consumers who are taking a more critical stand and will continue to question things more critically in the future. “While the switch to organic food products was a development that took around 30 to 40 years, the trend in clothing will be much faster because the demand we are currently seeing is much more radical,” predicts Dr Michael Arretz, sustainability expert and managing director of MIA (Management in Accordance).

Christina Wille, the founder of online shop Loveco, agrees: “People are paying more attention to sustainability in the production of clothing, not just the younger generation, but also the older one. They are starting to question their consumer habits and the movement is encouraging them to take an ever closer look.”

Sustainable brands are of course profiting from this trend, but big denim brands and multi-labels are now also faced with the task of appealing to these new consumers.

“It’s easier to set up a small brand that produces sustainably than to attempt to transform the complex and extensive supply chain of a large brand, but we are very much seeing both on the market,” observes Amy Leverton, denim consultant and author of Denim Dudes from L.A. Sustainability is never just black or white though. A lot of small steps still need to be taken to clean up the supply chain and most brands are only just getting started. From the use of organic cotton to resourceefficient washing methods and chemical-free finishing, there are countless approaches that can, however, only guarantee a completely sustainable supply chain if they are all used in combination. Whether conventional or sustainable, it’s not

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PHOTO BLANCHE SS20

COVER FEATURE

COVER FEATURE

merely a case of feasibility when it comes to brands choosing which aspects to concentrate on. The two opposing sides are the brands of conviction and those who are merely jumping on the bandwagon. For many brands or mills, this new form of sustainability is a good opportunity to strengthen their reputation. While some are still resorting to greenwashing methods, many are welcoming every development that brings us closer to the goal of sustainable denim. Heiko Wunder, founder of Wunderwerk, is convinced: “It’s time to stop watching from the sidelines: the turnaround needs to happen now.”

A GREENHOUSE FOR SMALL BRANDS In the current climate, small, sustainable brands are sprouting up under the very best conditions. The younger target group is growing, asking questions and wanting a bigger slice of the sustainability cake. “Smaller brands have more credibility here; they were created in a niche and have sustainability in their DNA. And young customers in particular trust these kinds of brands more. They are more authentic and people can identify with them,” says Anna Blunck, Category Manager at Avocadostore, before casting a glimpse into the future: “We are still a niche, but in the meantime we’re also looking at brands like Esprit and Tommy Hilfiger who are now also offering sustainable denims.” In the first half of 2019, it’s not only Avocadostore’s core target group of 35 to 50-year-olds that has grown significantly; the 18 to 25-year-old target group has grown by almost 150 percent. A clear influence of Fridays for Future. But Aki Tuncer, Country Manager for Germany, Austria and Switzerland at KnowledgeCotton Apparel, doesn’t agree: “We’re not seeing any difference in the demand for sustainable denim as a result of FFF. Our organic customers know us already; now we want to motivate the conventional stores.”

Small brands can score points for their authenticity, but also for being closer to the customers. “We’re seeing a lot of changes in the denim industry. The power is moving away from the ‘superbrand’ and towards individual brands,” observes Amy Leverton from Denim Dudes. Brands are increasingly asking themselves the question: who am I and how can I stand out? “The times when we all want to do a bit of everything are over,” says Tilmann Wröbel, founder and Creative Director

of denim consultancy Monsieur-T in Paris. “Suppliers need a clear DNA and have to become specialists in their field.”

That applies to both brands and denim mills. Information policies and transparency still pose a major challenge in the sustainable sector, as well as the higher prices that a lot of sustainable labels often try to compensate for with low margins. Sustainable brands agree that the real question is not why sustainable is so expensive, but rather how conventional can be so cheap.

BIG CHALLENGES FOR BIG PLAYERS Big brands and vertical fashion chains have also recognised the trend for sustainable denim. But they are facing a completely different set of challenges than the small, sustainable brands and reacting with a wide range of diverse strategies.

G-Star, for example, has decided to offer its sustainable jeans at the same price as the conventional ones, therefore enabling consumers to make a fair choice. The difference in production costs is compensated by the brand internally. “That’s the kind of activism I’d like to see from all denim brands,” says Amy Leverton from Denim Dudes. “If the big companies are tempting millions of people every year, why should it be the responsibility of an individual with a tight budget to consume sustainably?” Ultimately, for a lot of customers it comes down to the price, despite the fact that they would prefer to opt for the sustainable product if their budget allowed.

Another approach is sustainable capsule collections and incubator programmes, as we are seeing at H&M or Calvin Klein. They can be implemented faster than converting the entire brand and also fulfil the need for more individual and creative fashion.

Regardless of how the vertical fashion chains approach the topic of sustainability, we need to take a critical look at the efforts to establish green collections, especially those of the market leaders. “We would like their efforts to go beyond using a comparatively small proportion of sustainable materials. They wield so much power and could do so much more to contribute to cleaner textile production. But the political will and economic pressure isn’t big enough yet,” says Amy Leverton from Denim Dudes.

The ‘Grüne Knopf’ wants to “change fashion” but has had quite a rough start and still needs to prove itself useful.

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COVER FEATURE

INVESTING IN THE FUTURE

Despite that, there are already a large number of technologies available today that enable more sustainable production. “The entire industry could be made sustainable overnight, but that’s not going to happen without international, legal guidelines,” according to Tilmann Wröbel. And Joerg Schmaeschke from textile finishing company Matchpoint Textilmaschinenbau agrees: “A lot of companies are having a hard time investing in new technologies. Outdated technologies should immediately make way for new ones. We’ve developed a finishing technology that can save 30 to 50 percent energy and water usage during the washing process. But for us, the sustainable aspect of our technology is merely the door opener. Companies only invest when they know that the investment will pay for itself within one to three years.” Dr Michael Arretz from MIA takes a more optimistic view: “I am noticing that manufacturing facilities are giving in to international pressure and retrofitting their machines for sustainable production.”

PHOTO (RIGHT) RECOLUTION

CERTIFICATES OR STORYTELLING? The industry is seeing a seismic shift and there is already a lot of catching up to do. But waiting at the end of the supply chain is the more or less informed end consumer, who is often not quite as interested in sustainability as the brands would like them to be. After all, even customers who buy sustainable denim only inform themselves briefly on the standards and certificates that are credible. The joy of shopping is still at the focus. “As a store, we are the interface between the label and the customer. A lot of them trust us and don’t look at the label on every garment or ask why

Stella McCartney is not 100 percent sustainable but one of the few ready-to-wear designers who are taking a ‘green’ approach.

something doesn’t have a certain seal. They are putting the responsibility in our hands,” confirms Christina Wille from Loveco. Although sustainability certificates are tasked with providing customers orientation, it doesn’t always work out that way, because of the high costs involved, which many small brands simply can’t afford, or the fact that customers are unsure about the certificates.

“The Grüne Knopf (Green Button) standard doesn’t expect its partners to use raw materials from controlled organic cultivation. Which means that, in order to be issued with it, companies don’t need to be using organic cotton in the future, so many will switch back to cheaper cotton to make massive cost savings. That is where the legislation is failing us,” according to a statement from Wunderwerk.

Dr Michael Arretz from MIA also has concerns about the seal: “The Green Button is another meta standard based on a culture of mistrust. I would prefer a fact-based dialogue that offers comparison and clarification.”

That is exactly what many smaller brands are offering and instead of eco standards, or in addition to them, they prefer to focus on educating the customer directly. They use their websites or social media accounts, not only to present themselves as a brand, but also to educate their customers.

And there’s one thing they all agree on: a standardised legally binding regulation on the consumption of water and chemicals, use of raw materials etc. would certainly speed up the developments we are seeing right now and result in the final push the denim industry needs to take sustainability to the next level.

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PHOTO IMAXTREE

Sustainability means investment – from new water and energysaving machinery in the producing countries to the end consumer, who has to pay more for a pair of jeans. In the long supply chain, chemicals need to be eliminated from the washing process, overall water consumption needs to be reduced, fibre alternatives need to be found and the switch to organic cotton needs to be made. Other points are the use of recycled materials and circular systems. But for almost every idea there is also a counter argument. “That’s why recycling isn’t a good idea,” as Heiko Wunder from Wunderwerk points out, “because the toxic fabrics of conventional jeans would make their way into the cycle. Organic cotton is our solution here. Chlorine and potassium permanganate are just as harmful to the workers in the factories as they are for the end consumer.” And as Christina Wille from Loveco, points out: “Mud Jeans has developed a circular system of turning old jeans into new ones.

But these aren’t made 100 percent from recycled goods because the cotton after the recycling process isn’t of a high enough quality.”

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MINH PATCHWORK DENIM JACKET LEVI’S MADE & CRAFTED CHECKED JACKET SANDRO SCARF ARKET

L a Vie

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D e N î m es JENNY BLOUSE &OTHERSTORIES DENIM JACKET CLOSED

PHOTOGRAPHY NEDA RAJABI STYLING IRINA SKLADKOWSKI @ LIGA NORD

MODELS JENNY LAM @ MODELWERK MINH @ IZAIO MANAGEMENT

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HAIR & MAKE-UP PATRICIA HECK @ NINA KLEIN

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38 JENNY JUMPSUIT CITIZENS OF HUMANITY JACKET ESSENTIAL BAGS BP0110

MINH DENIM SHIRT & COAT WHYRED DENIM JACKET G-STAR JEANS (UNDERNEATH) DUBDOP JEANS G-STAR

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MINH DENIM SHIRT WHYRED JENNY JUMPSUIT CITIZENS OF HUMANITY

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JENNY DENIM SHIRT CALVIN KLEIN JEANS DENIM SHIRT 7 FOR ALL MANKIND DENIM TRENCH COAT CLOSED TROUSERS LARA KRUDE

MINH WHITE BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT ARKET DENIM JACKET ISKO DENIM PUFFER JACKET SCOTCH & SODA JOGGING PANTS ADIDAS BEANIE LEVI’S

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JENNY DENIM JUMPSUIT & JACKET ÁERON KNIT BIB NECK ARKET COAT LARA KRUDE BOOTS AEYDE

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JENNY PUFFER JACKET NAPAPIJRI DENIM SCARF CLOSED MINH DENIM SHIRT ARKET SUIT HOPE PUFFER JACKET ESSENTIAL

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MINH DENIM SHIRT ARKET SUIT HOPE

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MINH JEANS WORN AS SCARF SANDRO JACKET G-LAB JENNY DENIM JACKET ÁERON KNIT BIB NECK ARKET COAT LARA KRUDE

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MINH STRIPED SHIRT APC DENIM JACKET CLOSED DENIM JACKET (KNOTTED AROUND CHEST) LEE DENIM JACKET (KNOTTED AROUND WAIST) LEVI’S MADE & CRAFTED JEANS SANDRO

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WHITE BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT MARKET STRIPED DENIM SHIRT ISKO DENIM PUFFER JACKET SCOTCH & SODA JOGGING PANTS ADIDAS BEANIE LEVI’S

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JENNY DRESS JOSEPH DENIM JACKET AGOLDE DENIM JACKET (WORN ON TOP) DIESEL MINH STRIPED DENIM SHIRT APC DENIM JACKET CLOSED DENIM JACKET (KNOTTED AROUND CHEST) LEE

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NEWCOMERS

DENIM MEETS BALLET

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TEXT RENÉE DIEHL

Fresh out of university: Australian womenswear designer Meredith Bullen only just graduated from the New York Parsons School of Design in 2019, but she’s already making her mark on the fashion scene with her graduate collection. The collection is an exploration of her own identity and experiences. Up to the age of 17, the designer trained in classical ballet but cut short her career plans to pursue her dream of becoming a fashion designer. She takes these different influences and integrates them with a skilful combination of denim, embellishments and unconventional silhouette construction. The aim is not to clash these two worlds, but to combine them so that they merge seamlessly and create a new look, says Bullen. Seams reminiscent of ballet leotards and decorative flat felt seams with Swarovski crystals replace traditional denim jacket seams, while layers of blue tulle mimic the look of classic denim washes. Here, denim blue is repeatedly broken up by strong jewel-like shades such as red, green and orange. The designer also aims to incorporate the dichotomy of her past and present identity into the development of future collections. So watch this space! meredithbullen.com

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NEWCOMERS

FOR GIRLS ONLY

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TEXT RENÉE DIEHL

When you first hear the name, it seems a bit ironic to call a ladies’ denim brand ‘boyish’.

But if you think about it, it actually makes perfect sense: after all, most fashion girls like Alexa Chung would also describe their style as slightly boyish. The idea behind denim label Boyish Jeans, established in Los Angeles in 2018, was to adapt male silhouettes and fabrics to the female body, creating a style that is reminiscent of vintage denim, but with a modern and feminine twist. In addition to this USP, the designer and founder of the brand, Jordan Nodarse, has set himself the goal of producing his jeans as sustainably as possible, i.e. exclusively from recycled materials and using local resources in L.A. that are as environmentally friendly as possible. For example, the dyeing process uses far fewer harmful chemicals and the water consumption is only about a third of what is usually needed to produce a pair of jeans. True to the brand’s vintage concept, Nodarse was inspired by the 1990s for his current autumn/winter 2019 collection – in particular the rough and ready looks of grunge band Nirvana and cult film ‘Wayne’s World’. In addition to classic denim jeans, jackets and skirts, the collection also includes military-inspired pieces, and, for the first time, non-denim garments made of sustainable, lightweight cotton twill. The predominant colours are a striking red, dark olive and a grey and white stripe, accompanied by classic denim blues and blacks. boyish.com

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NEWCOMERS

THE SMALL THINGS

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TEXT RENÉE DIEHL

Playfulness meets minimalism: For spring/summer 2020, womenswear brand A Company are entering into the third round with their clearly titled ‘Season III’ collection. Founder and designer Sara Lopez says she was inspired by a chance sighting: “I saw some high school kids getting caught by the police with their shirts off on the banks of the Seine, there was an indulgence in the way they were enjoying the sun ... an ease, mixed with a great reluctance of having to redress.” And so the aesthetics of the collection experiment with images of dressing and undressing with the help of surprising drapes or the displacement of buttons on individual garments, overriding classical proportions with minimal intervention. The collection’s key pieces are poplin shirts, some of which are abstracted into dresses and skirts. These meet with almost unfinished tailoring, acid-wash denim items, khaki chinos and delicate silk and satin dresses. At first glance it might seem like a wild mix of pieces that have little to do with each other, but they come together to create a surprisingly harmonious collection that thrives on deconstruction and the play with conventions. Also included in ‘Season III’ is a minimalist functional handbag that can be combined with all other pieces. An understated colour palette of innocent white, classic black, light blue and grey as well as small checked patterns underline the clean but playful feel of the entire collection. a--company.com

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4 - 6 FEB 2020 I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T. C O M | # M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T

NEWS FROM THE DENIM MILLS

NEWS FROM THE DENIM MILLS TEXT ANNIKA DUDA

PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES ORTA ANADOLU The denim producer is taking on a leading role in the transformation of the denim industry and collaborating with The Biodesign Challenge to grow beyond the conventional denim production techniques and set new benchmarks. For their organically inspired textile processes, Orta awarded a prize to a team of Australian students at the RMIT University in Melbourne who developed a water filtration and treatment system for microplastics that can be retrofitted into washing machines. The students concentrated on the issue of microplastics that are released during washing cycles from polyester, nylon, acrylic and other synthetic fibres.

In addition to collaborations, Orta continues to work on utilising natural energy from the earth for denim production. One example is Solar Clean, whose technology uses the power of sunlight to self-clean fabrics in a process called photocatalysis. The fabric is treated with a photocatalyser made of minerals, which is activated as soon as it comes into contact with sunlight. And we can also expect to see plenty more sustainability innovations in the coming autumn/winter 2021 collection.

ORTAANADULO.COM

FROM THE ROOTS TO THE SKY BOSSA With 68 years of experience under its belt, the Turkish manufacturer is consolidating its leading position in the industry with a high quality and innovative range of products. In order to develop the company concept, Bossa has taken a further step towards becoming sustainable with a new concept called ‘Future Denim’, which was inspired by the origins of denim production. The combination of sustainably sourced fibres and natural dyeing techniques as well as the use of unbleached cotton, natural chemicals and dyes makes ‘Future Denim’ 100 percent sustainable.

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BOSSA.COM.TR

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Denim for every season

10 - 13 February 2020 the fairyland for fashion Paris le Bourget, France www.texworld-paris.com

NEWS FROM THE DENIM MILLS

A GREEN MILL IN A BLUE WORLD CANDIANI DENIM Few people appreciate denim as much as Ruedi Karrer. The Swiss businessman’s passion led him to establish the first independent jeans museum in the world with more than 14,000 pairs of jeans and denim jackets. To celebrate Karrer’s 60th birthday, he has created a limited collection of 60 numbered pieces together with Candiani: designed by him, developed by Candiani and 100 percent manufactured in Italy. The profits from the sales will go to the jeans museum.

But that’s not the only news from the Italian denim company: Candiani is also introducing ReLast, a new denim line certified by GOTS and GRS. The ReLast collection was manufactured with recycled fibres and certified Roica yarns, developed exclusively for Candiani.

CANDIANIDENIM.IT

JUST LIKE REAL DENIM ISKO Isko is joining Impact, a new event created by WSN (Who’s Next-Première Classe). The company, which is based in Paris at the Porte de Versailles is encouraging industry experts to take part in a dialogue aiming to create a global community with a common approach cross the entire fashion business. During the event, Turkish denim manufacturer Isko will be talking about its latest innovations, such as the new laser print technology ‘Vulcano’. The technology was highlighted at Impact by a selection of special fabrics made by laser print. Designed to create denim-style effects whilst also saving energy, this is a water-conserving alternative that delivers natural 3D effects. The method is fast and energy-efficient, which means that Vulcano is not only good to look at, but also doing its bit for the planet.

ISKODENIM.COM

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FUTURE POSSIBILITIES

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SOORTY Pakistani denim-maker Soorty is going global: with ‘Future Possibilities’, the company is launching a global online and offline platform with denim at its focus. The aim is to create a transparent dialogue among denim lovers and industry insiders on the topic of sustainable developments. But how?

Soorty will be educating, inspiring and connecting, as well as pitching for more transparency and a dialogue between participants within the supply chain. And they are also creating a collection with the climate crisis as its theme. ‘Climate Jeans’ aims to attract attention to the dramatic changes affecting our planet and shows Soorty’s position on this.

SOORTY.COM FUTURE-POSSIBILITIES.COM

CLOSING OUT 2019 LIKE

.

KINGPINS AMSTERDAM October 23/24

KINGPINS NEW YORK November 19/20

www.kinginsshow.com #kingpinsshow

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DENIM INTERVIEWS — BARTA TEKSTIL

DENIM INTERVIEWS — BARTA TEKSTIL

MAKING SUSTAINABLE HEADWAY Established in June 2014 by Barbaros Durmaz and Tamer Akdoğan, Barta is a portmanteau of the first letters of each of the two founders’ names. With a denim background, they now produce between 40,000 and 50,000 ladies’, men’s and kidswear garments each month, meanwhile for both the denim and the non-denim segments. At the moment, 60 percent of their output is conventionally manufactured, with 40 percent already being made sustainably — a number that is set to increase in the future.

Barta Tekstil is already GOTS and OCS-certified. To find out more about the Turkish-German manufacturer, which also has a showroom in Düsseldorf, J’N’C caught up with the two founders Barbaros Durmaz and Tamer Akdoğan at their production facility in Izmir.

INTERVIEW PIERRE D’AVETA TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN PHOTOS NADIR KOÇOĞLU

As far as I know, sustainability has been a major issue for you right from the start. To what extent did your previously acquired expertise help you?

Barbaros: I’ve been in the industry for 20 years, Tamer for 30.

Our company offers everything from A to Z, even including the packaging. Both of us contribute a lot of experience, including in sustainability. In the past two years alone, this topic has gained even more importance. Demand is simply growing; more and more people are coming to us and want to produce sustainable. That’s why we invest a lot in these greener processes and it’s definitely paying off: we are now both GOTS and OCS-certified.

There are currently lots of manufacturers making key changes in the development of green fashion. What distinguishes you from other manufacturers and gives your company the edge?

Tamer: Our primary goal is not only to understand our customers in terms of orders and turnover, but to support them 100 percent during the entire production process. We always give our customers all the information and advice they need, teach them about sustainability and serve as a good partner for them.

A good partner probably also needs to be flexible...

Barbaros: That’s true. Our customers want us to be very flexible, fast and provide good service. We are located in Izmir, Turkey.

A city with a small population. So there isn’t much traffic here, which should not be underestimated, and we are very close to the airport, which makes it easier for our customers to get to us. Everything, from cutting to packaging, takes place in our factory. We produce everything in-house and now, with our own laundry, our customers can come to us in the morning, create their samples, make decisions about the production processes, check it all and fly back the same evening.

Tamer: Izmir is located on the coast, the weather is always nice here, you can enjoy excellent fish and it’s just a great place to be.

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Barta’s 100 employees have been retrained to ensure that they not only use sustainable working methods but also understand them. And that includes fair working conditions, an area in which the company may be setting new standards. “We’ve ensured that social standards are in place so that everyone in our company really enjoys their work and feels secure; this feeling is then reflected in our production standards and our products end up all the better for it,” says Barbaros Durmaz proudly. But let’s start at the beginning…

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DENIM INTERVIEWS — BARTA TEKSTIL

Everything is finished inhouse — except the fabric which Barta has delivered.

But it can complete a collection within one to two days.

“Instead of polythene bags we use paper packaging made from recycled paper, as well as hangtags with seeds in the paper, which can then be planted.”

BARBAROS DURMAZ — CO-FOUNDER OF BARTA TEKSTIL

Barbaros: If at the end of the day, we are able to deliver a product of a high quality at the right time, then we’re happy.

sustainably produced. We will certainly be seeing a lot more of that in coming years.

If you produce everything in-house, does that mean that Barta is a completely vertical company?

Barbaros: No, we have the fabric delivered, but from then on everything is finished in-house. The fabric is cut, sewn and washed here, then packed and loaded onto the truck from here. The complete sample department is here, which means that we are really flexible, quickly producing samples and completing a complete collection within one to two days.

And finally, we can offer a lot of washes because we have our own laundry. We have also developed a new dyeing technique that is not available on the market yet. Our chemical supplier CHT is supporting us with that.

You’ve also established your own brand, right?

Barbaros: That’s right, Barta Jeans, based in Düsseldorf.

We have pooled all our expertise for it. We started with a ladies’ outerwear collection, but we’ll be presenting our first men’s collection at Neonyt in Berlin this January. The entire collection is recycled and organic.

Tamer: We invested all our know-how and built up the brand in such a way that Barta Jeans is not only sustainable, but it’s also a collection that everyone can buy, that everyone can wear and that is also affordable: with this collection we wanted to show what kind of washes are possible while also remaining in the sustainable segment.

What kind of processes are these?

Barbaros: We are developing different kind of dyeing methods which will give a new hand writing to our collections.

So Barta Jeans is 100 percent sustainable?

Barbaros: Yes, 100 percent! From the fabric, to the washing, to the production and the accessories as well as the packaging.

Instead of polythene bags we use paper packaging made from recycled paper, as well as hangtags with seeds in the paper, which can then be planted. We want Barta Jeans to be a benchmark brand and the first of its kind on the market.

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Barbaros, you said earlier that your fabrics come from suppliers — which ones?

Barbaros: We only buy fabrics from companies that we know and trust, such as Kilim, Calik, Isko and our non-denim manufacturers. That way, we can be sure where the cotton comes from and how it was processed.

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You advise your customers on sustainability, but how much influence do they and the end consumer actually have on this shift?

Barbaros: It feels like everyone wants to jump on the bandwagon now. Even conventional customers are heading down that path and asking us for some kind of a product that is

Is it mainly denim you offer?

Barbaros: It’s actually 60 percent denim and 40 percent non-denim. We also use a lot of blends like Tencel and linen, as well as hemp.

Has there been any feedback on the women’s collection yet?

Barbaros: It has been very well received and already being supplied to countries including Spain, Denmark, Switzerland, Austria and of course Germany.

where the largest markets and customers are to be found in the sustainability sector. There, just like in the DACH market and Scandinavia, people are more informed and willing to invest more.

But it won’t work without technology, will it? After all, the ongoing technologies and technological developments are also challenging manufacturers to make constant changes. How do you manage to adapt and how quickly does it need to happen?

Tamer: Of course, the technology aspect is very important, but most of it starts with the materials, i.e. the textile suppliers who need to invest in good technology in order to be able to produce better, sustainable fabrics. The main focus for us is the laundry, where we ensure we have the best technology and invest a lot in it.

Speaking of investments, does price play a role in the sustainable sector?

Barbaros: Price always plays an important role. That’s why we try to keep the price as low as possible so the customer can afford it and the end consumers are willing to spend their money on it. Ultimately, everyone should be able to afford sustainability in their wardrobes.

But when it comes down to it, sustainable fashion costs more than conventional fashion.

Barbaros: The fabric is more expensive and the chemical ingredients in the washing process are more expensive. But we try to keep it on the same level throughout our production, with a smaller profit margin, so that the end consumer can still buy the product. We are convinced that everyone should buy sustainably, which is why we need to ensure that everyone can afford it.

TEAMWORK One day Barta hopes to be one of the biggest players in the sustainable sector. A new collection is designed by the team every week. Only the best fabrics are selected for the garments, which are designed with new washing and dyeing developments prepared in their own laundry.

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Where are most of your customers based and are there any countries you would still like to expand to?

Barbaros: 90 percent of our goods are sent to Germany.

We also ship to Scandinavia, or Sweden to be precise, but also to Switzerland, Austria and Holland. We want to expand into countries like Italy, Spain and the UK. In my opinion, that is

DENIM INTERVIEWS — BARTA TEKSTIL

So there’s a lot going on for you right now...

Barbaros: Definitely. I am convinced that one day we will be one of the biggest players in the sustainable sector.

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DENIM INTERVIEWS — BARTA TEKSTIL

“We want Barta Jeans to be a benchmark brand and the first of its kind on the market.”

BARBAROS DURMAZ — CO-FOUNDER OF BARTA TEKSTIL

TWO MINDS, ONE VISION The two founders, Tamer Akdoğan (left) and Barbaros Durmaz (right) are working hard on their vision of becoming a leading brand that offers more than just clothing.

Is there anything that customers are demanding that manufacturers have been unable to deliver on until now?

Barbaros: It’s mainly the big brands who can’t implement things because of logistics. The packaging is a major problem.

People are really trying to move away from plastics, which is why here at Barta Jeans we deliver our product directly to the customer in a paper envelope. Large-scale customers are currently unable to do this in their logistics centres, where everything has been automated to be packed in polythene bags.

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That’s a pretty big problem that needs addressing fast.

Barbaros: Yes, but we won’t be able to solve it in the long run.

Logistics need to be adapted to sustainability. But we have developed something together with our supplier that offers an intern solution. We have developed a polybag that decomposes a little faster than normal plastic, which we can offer to our customers in the worst case.

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Another good reason to come to Barta.

Tamer: We put ourselves in our customers’ shoes and provide quality and products when they need them. Our customers know that they can have a product made by us in the same way that

they would in their own factory. They have a good relationship with us and know that we are on hand to accompany them with every step, from putting their ideas on paper to creating the final product. We are a very young company but have a very big vision. We’re not a typical production company in that sense, but we are developing day by day to help our customers to sell their products better. That’s one of the biggest advantages our company has.

If you could have one wish for the fashion industry that would come true instantly, what would it be?

Barbaros: It would be that we were able to produce everything 100 percent sustainably and make a big contribution to the environment as a producer. And, of course, for our brand to become well known all over the world — everywhere from America to Japan. (smiling) And last but not least, what are you most proud of?

Barbaros: That we are a transparent, well-organised GOTScertified factory that our employees also take great pride in.

BARTAJEANS.COM

DENIM INTERVIEWS — RAJBY INDUSTRIES

THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING With a business philosophy based on dedicated human resources, state-of-the-art technology and the desire and passion to improve, denim manufacturer Rajby has made an indelible mark as one of the top leaders in textile and garment manufacturing.

We talked to Zaki Saleemi, Chief Commercial Officer of Rajby Industries, about achievements, room for improvement and the perks of being located in Pakistan.

INTERVIEW AYLIN YAVUZ

If you were to describe Rajby in just one sentence, what would it be?

An organisation that has tremendous potential to be a future market leader.

Is that also the vision for the company?

Our vision is to be the best. Whether it’s in technological advancement, product innovation or supply chain solutions and so on.

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You’re based in Pakistan — what are the benefits of being located there that others might not be aware of?

There are many, obviously! But the biggest advantage in my opinion is that Pakistan is on track to becoming the gateway for the region, connecting existing and potential markets. The CPEC corridor and our new deep-sea port in Gawadar will open multiple cross-route logistic options, for sure. And that’s just the beginning.

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Sustainability is currently a huge topic and a big part of your company’s DNA. Can you briefly describe your efforts in that area?

There are always several projects run-

Modern jeans production means keeping up with fast-changing technological advancements. ning simultaneously within the organisation concerned with showing our love and respect for mother earth. Our C2C launch, recycling, reusing materials and energy throughout our flow process are just a few that come to mind. There are important projects coming up, which will further strengthen our approach.

You say that Rajby has tremendous potential to be a future market leader.

Zaki Saleemi, Chief Commercial Officer of Rajby Industries

What are some of your latest achievements?

Our C2C Gold Certified collection has all the attributes needed to qualify for a platinum score. That is something we are really proud of. Another milestone that we targeted and achieved was our ability to massively reduce the usage of clean water throughout our process flow.

Speaking of sustainability and new achievements, your latest collaboration is with Jeanologia. What exactly have you been working on together?

The outcome of this collaboration is beyond the norm. Our plan is to bring

DENIM INTERVIEWS — RAJBY INDUSTRIES PHOTO ISTOCKPHOTO – STOPBOXSTUDIO

RAJBY The Pakistani company is one of the leading players in the denim textile industry and takes “pride in transforming the denim way of life into a work of art”.

Who checks on your sustainability systems and how do you keep up with the constantly evolving technology?

We trust in third-party certification bodies to continuously audit our footprints and train our in-house experts to ensure the best results. Modern jeans production has to comply with fastchanging technological advancements, so we only partner with the best material and machine vendors to keep bringing something new to the table.

You have different certifications, including Cradle to Cradle, Global Recycled Standard and Sedex. But these can be confusing for clients and consumers.

Do you think all global manufacturers should have a consistent and mandatory system to not only make them more transparent, but also easier to understand?

Much of what has been done in the last decade in terms of bringing sustain­able practices to the industry is due to the suppliers’ own initiatives for the cause. So yes, there should be independent bodies working on transforming these initiatives in the best possible

The industry needs to strive harder to find more efficient replacements for natural fibres. This will help elevate sustainability to the next level. and comprehensible way to the end consumers.

Where should the industry, specifically the denim industry, push itself harder?

Making denim is generally a pretty unsustainable process, although a lot has

changed thanks to the mutual efforts of all stakeholders. However, there is still a lot to be done. The industry needs to simultaneously work on its operational efficiency to be able to reinvest in future projects to ensure that both the environment and society can profit.

Despite its overall success across the globe and throughout the decades, is there anything that denim is lacking nowadays?

Future denim to me is material innovation.

Lyocell, modal, rayon — they are only just the beginning. The industry needs to strive harder to find more efficient replacements for natural fibres. This will help elevate sustainability to the next level as well as helping trendsetters provide their fashion creations with more diversity.

Rajby can be proud of many achievements. But what are you personally most proud of?

This company is like a big family. People here are thoroughly engaged, willing to contribute and always strive to bring change. The love we bring to our products is beyond anything I could ever explain.

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something new to existing sustainable solutions for advanced denim finishing.

RAJBY.COM

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DENIM INTERVIEWS — JEANOLOGIA

PLANET BEFORE PROFITS Enrique Silla doesn’t have a dream, he has a clear vision: jeans are going to be the flagship product of the textile industry.

The CEO of Spanish finishing company Jeanologia can afford to have such clearly defined goals as he has contributed to the key changes being made in the industry. Which was no easy feat.

He explains why in this interview.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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Jeanologia was founded 25 years ago — that’s a long time in fashion. What has changed most since then?

The main thing that has changed at Jeanologia is that we started out with the dream of changing the way jeans were produced and of eliminating water and toxic chemicals from the production process. Today we finally have different technologies that could make our dreams a reality. At Jeanologia we are 100 percent sure that in three to five years we will completely dehydrate – meaning zero water use – and detoxify denim production, with not a single gram of dirty chemicals. So within those 25 years, it’s not only the tools that have changed immensely, but also the will. The mindset is finally there to force change. In the first ten years of our company, hardly anybody listened to our efforts to produce more sustainably, while still remaining an efficient manufacturer by using less resources. People didn’t understand that you can take care of our planet and still have a fantastic business model. But luckily that has changed. Sustainability is a must now.

And consumers will refuse to buy brands that don’t put the planet before profits.

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Like you said before: a huge shift in mindset. Can you tell us what impact Jeanologia has had on the industry?

We have contributed a little bit to the mindset and at Jeanologia we are extremely proud of that. Of course we

were also involved technically but the textile industry is a very traditional industry. So, despite having respect for many of these people, some have become resigned or have an air of cynicism about them.

Today the industry is doing everything it can — but only if it doesn’t cost more.

What do you mean by that?

Things are moving very slowly: people are either wondering why they should fix something that doesn’t seem broken, or they are simply sceptical when it comes to new technologies. They have excuses or a defensive and cynical attitude. But I understand that they are afraid because they prefer to stick to what they know.

That’s where we come in, and are trying to change this mindset, replacing it with a more modern and valiant attitude. The only way to manage that is to have an army of people in every single country who really believe that sustainability is the future. We walk with the doubters and tell them: don’t worry. If something happens, we are here for you. And it’s working. It has been a fantastic journey so far and a huge learning process for us as well, but it’s a beautiful job. Imagine 250 jeanologies, installing equipment, taking phone calls and organising meetings, all contributing to a better world.

What’s the harsh truth of denim production that nobody wants to talk about?

Nobody wants to pay more for a sustainable product. That’s why, when we develop a new technology, and it isn’t cost-neutral, we don’t launch it on the market as we know it will fail. We only launch technologies at a neutral or better cost. The industry is doing everything it can — but only if it doesn’t cost more.

What do you think the future of denim holds?

I believe that jeans will be the uniform of the new rebels. The young generation who are not ready to contaminate the world or live on a planet that doesn’t respect its people. This generation is very clear about that. Jeans won’t just be their uniform because of comfort, but because they will be the first product in the textile world that can be produced 100 percent without the use of water and zero discharge. Today it’s faster, easier and more cost-neutral to produce a pair of jeans in the right way. If you have two garments and both garments cost the same, but one is produced in a simple way without contaminating the environment and one is produced with a bunch of chemicals and damage to the ecosystem, the decision is simple and there are no excuses anymore. Our industry is going to change.

That’s not a dream, but a certainty.

JEANOLOGIA.COM

DENIM INTERVIEWS — BOSSA

BEATING THE DENIM BLUES recycle yarns and fibres by reusing them as raw materials. Additionally, we use fibres obtained from plastic bottles as raw textile material as part of our ‘r-PET’ project. We’ve also taken first steps in a new recycling project called ‘Post-Consumer Denim’ in which we collect used jeans from our customers from all over the world and turn them into useable fabric again. We also believe that we were the first textile company to produce a collection made of 100 percent recycled fabrics, our ‘Re-Set’ collection. We also calculate and certify the environmental impact of all products in this collection based on the LFA (Life Cycle Assessment) project.

It’s not just the ‘Fridays for Future’ movement that’s provoking a furore of global dimensions: sustainability is also one of the most discussed challenges in the denim industry. Tayfun Akbay, Deputy General Manager at Bossa, explained to us in an interview that the Turkish denim producer has already taken numerous steps towards a more sustainable future — but that there will still always be room for improvement.

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INTERVIEW RENÉE DIEHL

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Let’s dive in right away and start with your overall motto ‘Bossa Cares’.

This philosophy includes your work inside and outside the company.

Can you briefly explain what ‘Bossa Cares’ is based on?

As we are one of the leaders in denim production, our company is trying to draw attention to environmental sus-

tainability with its actions. ‘Bossa Cares’ started out in 2005 with the idea of accurately analysing all production stages, from raw material to energy, water to chemicals, workmanship to productivity, to subsequently finding more effective ways of saving. Our world only offers limited resources, which makes recycling all the more important. Here at Bossa, we

Speaking of environmental impact: water is one of the major factors that needs to be reduced. How do you manage that?

True. Often the first element that springs to mind when talking about the environment is water. That’s why we’ve introduced our project ‘Saveblue’ where we carry out all of our water-saving activities.

Being aware of energy and water consumption in the industry, our company is combining natural fibre usage with the concept of saving water. This allows us to save 85 percent of water during the dyeing process. In addition, we’ve replaced sulphuric acid with carbon dioxide to neutralise our basic waste water.

How? We started by using liquid carbon dioxide in the beginning to neutralise our water waste, but now we have reached the second stage of our project by using our own carbon dioxide emissions. And we’ve also started a new project regarding our energy supply: generating our own energy by establishing a co-generation plant at our facility. That is helping us to save around 20 percent of our energy and it’s also made a significant contribution to reducing environmental pollution.

That’s quite an impressive résumé summed up in just a few sentences!

DENIM INTERVIEWS — BOSSA

BOSSA Their future vision is 100 percent sustainable.

Within their mill they are already using state-of-the-art technology to produce ‘the denim of the future’.

The consumers are the ones who create the demand.

With all these ongoing projects, are you focused more on reducing water or recycling old jeans? That is, after all, something that the industry could do better …

Recycling and the traceability of the cotton are very important, and as we pay special attention to the latter, we are currently even working on our own tracking system via the Bossa servers.

We work with the BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) Standard and are one of the biggest consumers of organic cotton amongst our competitors in the denim sector. Nevertheless, we think that recycled, and especially post-consumer recycled material, need to be given much more attention when it comes to the supply of raw materials, as well as water and energy saving priorities.

Viewed globally, we actually only use a small proportion of used garments for recycling which means that there is plenty of room for improvement in our future productions. According to different sources, in order to produce one kilo of cotton, around 20,000 litres of water are consumed and, for an average pair of jeans, we need one kilo of cotton. So let’s just consider we use ten percent of recycled cotton — that would be a total saving of 2,000 litres of water!

offer better traceability. The key to making the industry work more seriously on issues of sustainability is to create more awareness on all platforms by creating campaigns supported by trustee organisations as well as governmental platforms to reach more consumers, as they are the ones who create the demand.

Everyone is talking about sustainability, but do you feel that the industry is really doing something about it? What could we improve on straight away?

We recently started feeling that the industry is really trying to do better by making serious commitments, but to actually achieve something we need to

Looking back, Bossa was ahead of its time and started working with sustainable production methods quite early on.

But one of the latest demands of the fashion world is transparency. How transparent does a manufacturer have to be?

Bossa is one of the most transparent companies in the sustainable denim world.

We don’t just say that we’re working on sustainability; we can quantify it and also demonstrate it in our reports.

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We implement projects with innovative approaches to sustainability each season and have no plans to slow down.

In this context, we have developed a new environmentally friendly dyeing process called ‘Dyeart’, which enables us to produce colourful denim fabrics with much less environmental impact.

And our latest sustainable project is ‘Future Denim’ in which all of the fibres and yarns, such as organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester, eco T400, Refibra (recycled Tencel) and PCRD (post-consumer recycled denim) are sustainable and dyed using the ‘Saveblue’ process I just described.

That means the products are 100 percent sustainable from dyeing to finishing, which is what we call ‘the denim of the future’.

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DENIM INTERVIEWS — BOSSA

We’re always willing to share our data with our partners and currently run an LCA programme in cooperation with some textile universities, most of which are based in Turkey. We don’t just say that we are working on sustainability, but are able to quantify it by many parameters and also to share our reports.

Maintaining transparency isn’t easy though, especially when trying to communicate it in a global and comprehensible way by means of tags, links, codes, symbols. How does Bossa solve this problem?

We use symbols and simple numbers that everyone will be able to understand. In order to explain our values, we looked at how these are symbolised globally and adapted to that. Traceability in organic cotton, fabric and garment production has always been a profound challenge that Bossa is aware of and so we try to create transparent solutions. Our organic production is fully transparent as we

share our documents with the denim industry by using VR codes.

Still, the denim industry has been discredited for being a ‘dirty business’ in the past. Is this still warranted?

Until now, it’s been quite clear that the denim industry is the dirtiest of the entire textile sector. But that also means sustainability awareness has grown faster than in all other areas and, as a result of that, denim companies – from fabric producers to garment makers and laundries – are now quicker to adjust to new sustainability standards with the demand coming from the brands themselves.

Things are changing fast and companies are becoming more transparent by the second – but we still have quite a way to go.

Coming back to ‘Bossa Cares’: are there any goals as a manufacturer that you’d like to achieve in the near future?

We have many ongoing projects, but there is always room for improvement,

for example by making correct analyses of all production stages and finding effective ways of saving and improving. For us, sustainability not only includes water, energy, chemicals and raw materials, it is also the future of our company. We plan on declaring our own sustainable commitments to the denim world in the near future.

Speaking of caring, what is your personal advice for more sustainable consumption?

My advice would be to make sustainable products more wearable and saleable.

If we manage to make sustainable denim fabrics look better and more commercial, the end consumers will be even happier about what they buy. If we use only five percent of post-consumer recycled denim in all the collections without changing the look of the fabric or the garment, instead of using sustainable denims only in specific concepts, the impact on the environment will be greatly reduced.

BOSSA.COM.TR

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FROM YARN TO FASHION Bossa is taking its responsibility for the planet seriously and constantly improving its manufacturing processes.

“Things are changing fast and companies are becoming more transparent by the second — but we still have quite a way to go.”

TAYFUN AKBAY — DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER OF BOSSA

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WINTER STYLES

FEBRUARY 29 – MARCH 2, 2020

SEPTEMBER 5 – 7, 2020 SUMMER STYLES

THE PLACE FOR NEW TRENDS #ILMOFFENBACH WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE

BRAND INTERVIEWS — SHU N° 78

SHU POP-UP Andrei Kravtsov is proud of his brand, the team and the new pop-up store in Bikini Berlin. We captured a few snapshots of the opening night with our Polaroid camera.

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INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN PHOTOS PIERRE D’AVETA

What do you do every single day without exception?

Since preparing for the Berlin Marathon last September, I go running early every morning. Mornings are my gadget-free time, when I get to switch off completely.

I also go to the office every day, or to the factory if I am in China. In the evenings, I might have an appointment or take some time out to listen to records or read a book.

Do people often overrate or underestimate you?

Sometimes. But I think that everyone has an opinion and you should only care about those of people you trust. I always listen my team of colleagues as we are creating things together and I care about their ideas and what they think.

It’s really important to let people speak and I always make sure I listen to them.

The other essential thing is to learn from those who know more than you do.

That’s why I always enjoy meeting new people and probably also my great advantage — learning from people who are more professional than me.

Tell me something about you or your brand that we’ve never heard before.

Well, I will tell you that the brand actually started with a fire in my apartment.

Everything burnt down, except my old sewing machine, which was made of

It’s really important to let people speak and I always make sure I listen to them. steel. I thought it was a sign and started creating and sewing.

Wow, that’s quite a unique story and a great example of how to turn bad luck into success. Let’s talk about the beginning of your brand then. Shu was established in 2012 but only found its way onto the German market recently.What would you say makes it so successful?

First of all, Shu is a Russian brand, which makes it unique in Europe. And secondly, the people who make Shu garments are emotionally involved in the process.

They really put their heart and souls into the work.

You’re known for your functional, vegan and minimalistic outerwear, but you’re now also offering jeans. What character-

ises your denims and what is your main focus within the jeans collection?

We take the values we have for our outerwear and apply it to denim as well. The main focus is on a modern fit, high quality, the washing process and the price.

Are you interested in expanding your range, with sweaters and T-shirts for example?

By all means. We’re constantly working on that and are interested in developing a diverse range of items that can be worn as part of complete, head-to-toe looks.

How would you describe your inspirational design process?

I find great inspiration from Scandinavian and Japanese design so I try to spend a lot of time in those countries. Vintage culture from the 70s and 80s, including cars, vinyl and guitars, also really inspires me. New technologies in fabrics and design are important for me too. Whenever I see awesome, innovative new ways of doing things, I always try to implement them in what we do.

You draw inspiration from Scandinavia or Japan but you’re from Saint Petersburg.

How are your origins reflected in Shu? Saint Petersburg is famous for its harsh weather conditions. The idea of making a comfortable shield from bad weather conditions is very typical of Saint Petersburg. And the city is a very sincere and heart-warming place, so all that love is at the core of our mission.

After entering the German market and opening a pop-up store in Berlin, what’s next on your to-do list for 2020?

We are excited to be opening a monobrand store in Berlin. We’re in love with its vibe and energy. But the pop-up store at Bikini Berlin is a test ride for us, we are preparing for something bigger.

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At the beginning of October, young Russian label Shu opened its very first pop-up store in Germany at concept shopping mall Bikini Berlin. But will they stop at a temporary shop, or do they have bigger plans in the pipeline? We asked the label’s 29-year-old founder Andrei Kravtsov in an interview.

BRAND INTERVIEWS — SHU

IT ALL STARTED WITH A FIRE

SHUCLOTHES.COM/EU

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BRAND INTERVIEWS — LEE

A GREAT LEGACY feminine interpretation with an on-trend wide leg, using a fluid draping fabric that pays homage to the original sturdy material it was made from. These pieces are really versatile and work just as well today as in the past or the future, which, to us, is proof of their good design.

Yes, we have an impressive heritage, but we never let it weigh us down.

For its 130th anniversary, the denim legend is going back to its roots and reviving a number of classics like the Lee 191. Lee is also celebrating its hometown under the motto ‘Created in Kansas’, which was the perfect opportunity for us to interview Peter Kats, Vice-President of Lee EMEA.

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INTERVIEW CYNTHIA BLASBERG

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Lee is reflecting on its roots for its 130th campaign, ‘Created in Kansas’. In keeping with this, the collection features some quotes focusing on iconic pieces like the Lee 191 jacket or a very feminine interpretation of the Whiz It jumpsuit. What were the criteria when choosing which pieces to include in the AW19 collection?

Being one of the oldest denim and workwear brands in the business means you automatically build up an archive. And with purposeful design in our DNA, some of our original and legendary designs have become iconic and timeless, which means

they are always relevant. The trends that we feel are right for our brand and markets are the criteria we use to choose which pieces we want to work with.

Each design already has so many strong stories to tell that all we need to do is continue the story or perhaps rewrite it a little. We achieve this by updating the fit, finishing and fabric we use, making them relevant for today and crafting our icons of the future: the Whiz It Coverall, which you mentioned for example, is a workwear classic. Its details are very characteristic, so all we did was give it a more

The SS19 campaign was photographed in New York by Jamel Shabazz, which explains its strong focus on pop culture around the 80s hip-hop period.

In comparison, the city of Kansas isn’t exactly what we would call a cultural hotspot. Did Lee choose Kansas for the campaign to pay tribute to its hometown in the Midwest? How did you choose the protagonists featured in the campaign?

Kansas is where Henry David Lee founded the company 130 years ago. So to celebrate the anniversary we went back to our roots and paid homage to the entrepreneurial spirit of H.D. Lee by choosing to work with modern entrepreneurs from Kansas. Handpicked from the city’s wealth of talent, the Kansas community of today have been chosen to showcase the new collection because of the love they have for Lee Jeans, their city, and because they share the same passion for innovation that motivated H.D. Lee 130 years ago. Spanning a range of creative industries – from fashion and music to food and design – the brand’s casting reflects Kansas city’s rich melting pot of talent.

Sustainability is one of the major topics in the fashion business and denim has an essential role in this. For autumn/winter 2019, Lee has launched a sustainable collection with BCI cotton. But BCI cotton also has its critics as the initiative allows genetically modified cotton to be used, which is therefore not considered

organic. Is it possible for Lee to consider GOTS-certified cotton in the future?

Or what other steps do you have planned to take the brand in more of an eco and fair fashion direction?

Lee has been using Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton for a long time now, but in terms of sustainability, what we are highlighting for AW19 are, rather than the raw materials, the sustainable technologies that are used to dye the fabrics. These technologies, developed by Candiani, which include Kitotex and Indigo Dye and Mineral Dye processes, improve sustainability because they minimise the use of water, chemicals and energy.

However, we also have a line of T-shirts made with certified organic cotton for AW19. On top of this, the pre-spring 2020 collection – which will be available from November – will include jeans that use organic cotton and Indigood dyeing technology, which is a foam dye, meaning no water is used in the process. There are lots more initiatives like this that will be even more important from SS20 onwards.

Even though Lee products were always available for German customers in stores,

there has been a noticeable lack of brand presence here for several years now. Why is that?

We’ve been seeing constant growth in the German market for many years now.

The fact is that we made some different distribution choices to rebuild the brand and start delivering sustainable growth, also for the years to come. Perhaps that’s why it seems like we were less present. We shouldn’t forget that the market nowadays is overpopulated when it comes to denim brands, big and small, so it gets more difficult to stand out. Nevertheless, we are very confident that we have the right strategy for Germany and will continue to grow in this important market.

BRAND INTERVIEWS — LEE

In this day and age, denim brands need to fulfil a completely different range of tasks than they did in the past. Taking the history of Lee into account, could you tell us how the brand has prepared to face these changes? What were the obstacles you had to overcome?

Yes, we have an impressive heritage, but we never let it weigh us down. On the contrary, thanks to our expertise and constant quest for innovation we have always integrated the macro-trends that impact our industry. Take sustainability for example — one of today’s hot topics.

We’ve already launched sustainable products such as our most successful jeans (for men and women) and the Rider jacket made from our sustainable selvedge denim. For SS20 we will be developing our sustainable initiatives even further.

In light of Lee’s 130 th anniversary, what is the oldest denim piece you own and what makes it special?

My oldest Lee piece is a pair of 101 Riders that go back about six or seven years.

They’ve started to fade nicely but are still not quite where they could, and maybe should, be.

LEE.COM

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LEE For its 130th anniversary Lee is going back to its roots and recreating iconic pieces from their archive for the autumn/winter 2019 collection. Proof that denim never gets old.

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OUTFIT 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

NO RULES

NO RULES JEANS LEVI’S BOOTS BALLY

PHOTOGRAPHY MADDY GRACE O STYLING MARLEEN ALAND

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NO RULES MODELS GEORGETTE @ VIVA MODELS BERLIN, BERNADETTE @ ICONIC MANAGEMENT BERLIN

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BERNADETTE JACKET PALLAS PARIS JEANS LEVI’S SLIPPERS SCOTCH & SODA SHOES EARRINGS VIBE HARSLØF

GEORGETTE DENIM JACKET LEVI’S MADE & CRAFTED TROUSERS PALLAS PARIS BOOTS LEVI’S FOOTWEAR EARRINGS VIBE HARSLØF

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DENIM COAT LEVI’S BLAZER JOSEPH HAT FADE OUT EARRINGS MIU MIU

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TOP PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND DENIM JACKET ONE TEASPOON BELT LEVI’S SKIRT DAWID TOMASZEWSKI EARRINGS TARA JARMON

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BERNADETTE DENIM JUMPSUIT BLANCHE PUMPS FLATTERED GEORGETTE JUMPSUIT CITIZENS OF HUMANITY BOOTS FLATTERED

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TRENCHCOAT LALA BERLIN JEANS GANNI BELT OFF-WHITE

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DENIM SHIRT STIEGLITZ BELT LEVI’S

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DENIM JACKET BLACK AGOLDE DENIM JACKET GREY CITIZENS OF HUMANITY EARRINGS ISABEL MARANT

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TRADESHOW PREVIEWS

NEONYT Berlin

14 — 16 January 2020

neonyt.messefrankfurt.com

TEMPELHOF TURNS SUSTAINABLE From Kraftwerk to Tempelhof: this January, Neonyt is relo­cating to a new venue, a move that will make it a direct neighbour of Panorama Berlin. We caught up with Show Director Thimo Schwenzfeier for a chat about what the relocation means for the sustainable tradeshow.

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INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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New name, new location; why was it time to shake things up, in your opinion?

In a sustainable context, fashion needs to come out of its niche and move into the mainstream. In particular, this includes making the overall positioning of sustainable fashion more fashionable, not only in the look and feel but also the communication. We achieved that with Neonyt right from the very first edition. The new location is a result of the opportunities offered by Tempelhof Airport, including the coolness of the location itself, the future growth and development prospects and also practical aspects like the fact that it will be taking place entirely on ground level.

I can’t think of any better arguments for fashion retailers to come to Berlin. And we’re also noticing that the anticipation is building among the brands, even ones that hadn’t really had Neonyt on their radar before now.

Neonyt will also be getting a direct neighbour at its new location: Panorama Berlin. Do you see any chance that the two tradeshows will come together in any way?

Both events are and will remain completely independent. Especially in terms of their positioning and the focus of their content.

But with the visitors in mind, of course we will be coming together on some level, for example when it comes to the tickets or catering.

You already mentioned that everything in Hangar 4 will be at ground level, but can you perhaps tell us a bit more about your plans for the location?

On the whole, the use of Tempelhof Airport is quite complex due to the fact that it’s a listed building and historical monument. We need to do justice to that. We definitely want to use the main hall and hold Fashionsustain in the restaurant upstairs, ideally with the corresponding Showcase next to it. We also want to integrate the fashion show into Neonyt again and are working out how to do that at Tempelhof. Apart from that, we’ll have plenty of space for all formats and contents, such as our influencer meet-up Prepeek and the Retail Forum with a focus on topics that are relevant to retailers.

Tempelhof is a renowned location that is sure to evoke sentimentality among many visitors for the ‘good, old days’. What does Tempelhof mean for Neonyt and what opportunities will arise from it?

We don’t want to make any comparisons with previous or other formats. That wouldn’t be right. But it’s clear that we want to use the charm of Tempelhof to our own advantage. The coolest tradeshow with the most topical theme in this one-off location:

Unfortunately, here in Germany we tend to play down or badmouth our own formats, preferring instead to set our sights on other countries.

Most people are just glad to see something new happening on Germany’s fashion tradeshow scene. What’s your take on the situation in general?

TRADESHOW PREVIEWS A must-attend! From January the hub for green fashion will be taking place on the grounds of Berlin’s Tempelhof Airport for the first time.

Looking back at the early days of Neonyt and comparing it with today, what should Messe Frankfurt be most proud of?

That they recognised the sign of the times so early on and consistently focused on the topic of sustainability, also at other fairs such as Heimtextil. That was more than ten years ago now.

We’ve carried on developing and investing further and, most recently with the relaunch of Neonyt, we dared to take the right step at the right time.

And where are things headed in the short and long term?

Neonyt is already the world’s biggest platform for sustainable fashion. The next step is to carry this relevance into the mainstream and, in doing so, activate the conventional market.

Without, of course, excluding the decidedly green retailers. On the contrary. We need to, and want to, bring together all relevant sustainable brands under one roof and offer retailers and fashion players the best possible overview, true to our positioning as the “global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation”.

Speaking of next steps: aside from the new location, the conference of Neonyt, Fashionsustain, is also making its mark internationally. After New York, why are Los Angeles and Shanghai now also interesting cities in which to hold Fashionsustain?

Sustainability is a global issue, in the same way that fashion is so global. With its Texpertise Network, Messe Frankfurt is the global market leader when it comes to textile trade fairs and already organises events in places like New York and Shanghai.

As a result of our expertise in sustainability and fashion, as well as our international network, which we bring together in Berlin every six months, we are able to wonderfully adapt a conference format like Fashionsustain on an international scale, and at the same time, also gauge the interest in those markets. And the interest and participation of global players like H&M, Kering, Lenzing, PVH and Walmart are confirming that we’re on the right path.

Let’s stay on the topic of internationalisation: with Messe Frankfurt, Neonyt has a global network at its side that is sure to make it easier for you to expand. Are there any expansion plans on the cards and, if so, where else could you imagine taking Neonyt?

Of course we are noticing that the international market is keeping a close eye on everything that is happening at Neonyt, such as who is attending and how the whole thing is developing. But venturing abroad always requires careful consideration. At the moment our focus is very clearly on Berlin. But the spin-offs of Fashionsustain at least enable us to determine the interest and potential in those other countries first.

And to conclude, let’s look ahead to January. What are you most looking forward to this coming season?

Most of all I’m looking forward to walking into Hangar 4 on the first morning and being able to soak up the fantastic, positive and progressive atmosphere. The change of fashion is now, at Neonyt more than anywhere else. It really is palpable everywhere at our event. I can’t think of a better way to begin 2020.

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In its entirety, I believe that the German fashion market is still one of the strongest and most important in the world. And when it comes to fashion, Berlin is where it’s at. Especially now that the hotspot of Tempelhof is keeping the travel distances nice and short for visitors. This is the only place that the prevailing themes of sustainability and technology will be presented in such a comprehensive and high-quality way. This is an unparalleled USP, and something we need to draw more attention to. Unfortunately, here in Germany we tend to play down or badmouth our own formats, preferring instead to set our sights on other countries. And that doesn’t just apply to the fashion market.

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PREMIUM / SEEK Berlin

14 — 16 January 2020

premiumexhibitions.com, seekexhibitions.com

THE ECOSYSTEM OF FASHION It’s not just about collections these days, but a complete package and partners you can count on, according to Anita Tillmann who, with the Premium Group, is trying to remain true to her own values in a time of major developments on the German fashion tradeshow scene.

We caught up with the CEO to find out what Premium and Seek have planned for this January and why reliability always gives you the upper hand.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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Looking ahead to January 2020, what do you think really counts at trade fairs today?

Our fashion events are changing from purely transactional business events to platforms where we welcome all players from the ecosystem. In other words, it’s no longer just sales reps coming, but decision-makers, marketing teams, buyers and brand owners, and social media is also becoming an increasingly important topic. Even if they only stay for a day or a night, everyone comes to look and get informed and updated.

It’s no longer just about selling the collections themselves, it’s about performance, budgets, emotions and brand stories, and also reliable partners. Partners who are able to work together with retailers to create something new. The overall package has to be right and we analyse the market very carefully. The Premium Group represents trade fairs, business, platforms and the platform economy. What we are not responsible for is fashion week, catwalks and other events. Unfortunately, the line here is often blurred, which is why I want to clarify that.

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In real terms what does that mean for Premium and Seek?

We are all facing the same challenges and the dynamics have changed on all levels. That’s why, after extensive market research all over Europe, we began transforming our tradeshow formats a year and a half ago and have now successfully completed the first phase. We’ve come up with a new brand mix, restructured the halls and are now in phase two. We have integrated Bright into Seek and Show&Order into Premium. This results in a redefinition and brand positioning of the two major tradeshow events: Seek is edgy, strong and unpolished. Once again, it’s all about contemporary statement designs, new clas-

sics, denim and sportswear. It’s the fun event for the fashion community that knows where it’s going, promotes sales and unites the present and future generation of decision-makers.

Unconventional and definitely not boring. Premium, on the other hand, is elegant, full of contrasts and impressive.

Global players are represented next to newcomers from all segments. For the fashion market, Premium is the most significant European business platform for menswear and womenswear. Long-term partnerships are maintained here, and new inspiration is provided.

The Premium Group represents trade fairs, business, platforms and the platform economy.

Sustainability remains an important topic for the Premium Group. To what extent, exactly?

We have over 80 sustainable brands exhibiting at Seek and around 40 at Premium. It’s our responsibility to work with those brands and companies that are able and willing to meet the challenges of our time. Our motto is 1+1=11 and that is exactly what we do. We do what we do best: bringing together the right people. Experts will be giving talks and networking with the brands and the retailers at the event.

Now let’s touch on what Premium and Seek have in store for us this coming January …

And I’m sure that the #Fashiontech format, which will be taking place at Station Berlin and Arena Berlin from January, is also a lot of fun. What can the visitors expect to see there?

The #Fashiontech conference is getting really good feedback and is incredibly innovative and strong. In the course of the repositioning we will be integrating #Fashiontech into the new Premium and the new Seek next season. This time, talks, masterclasses and exhibitions will be held at both events to meet the respective segments and requirements.

Sneakers, Veja, Nudie, Kings of Indigo, Dedicated and many more, will be further developing the Think Tank concept with us. We try to keep as much as possible under one roof each season and invite the visitors to connect with each other to create added value and help each other on the path to sustainability and responsible fashion. We’re still busy talking to some really interesting people who I can’t name at this point, but I’m already really looking forward to the results.

We are also interested in showing where the problems lie and what can be done about them in the short term. As mentioned, there will be a number of experts present, who will be able to speak about these issues professionally and objectively.

The Think Tank concept you launched in July will also be further expanded in the coming season. Which decisionmakers will be in attendance this time around?

The sustainable brands that have been around for a long time, like Save the Duck, Ecoalf, Armedangels, Meyer, Womsh

That leaves me with just one more question: what would you say it is that defines Premium and Seek today?

More than anything, we are reliable; you can really count on us. Reliability is a quality that is more important today than ever before.

Whether green labels, newcomers or big brands — they will all be coming together at Premium and Seek. This varied mix of exhibitors is a strength of the two platforms and a guarantee for plenty of new inspiration.

TRADESHOW PREVIEWS

We are also interested in showing where the problems lie and what can be done about them in the short term.

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We have three themes from the past season that we have picked up on and will be developing: digitalisation, sustainability and retail experience. The latter in particular promises lots of new and exciting concepts that the retail trade could easily replicate for the ‘buyer experience’. We sit down together with the brands and think about what the retailer needs. I really enjoy having these conversations; they’re a lot of fun.

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TRADESHOW PREVIEWS

PANORAMA BERLIN Berlin

14 — 16 January 2020

panorama-berlin.com

A REBELLIOUS MOVE TO TEMPELHOF Everyone’s eyes were on Panorama Berlin in September when Jörg Wichmann announced that he would be moving his tradeshow to the former Tempelhof Airport from January 2020. The perfect opportunity for us to catch up with the show’s CEO and ask him a few questions …

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

Huge congratulations on the new location! How much relief and anticipation comes with such an announcement?

We’re really proud to have been able to give the industry its preferred location. Our move to Tempelhof Airport represents another milestone in the evolution of Panorama Berlin, and it’s sure to bring the industry closer together. The relief came when we decided to overhaul our entire platform. We have now paved the way for the industry to turn ideas into actions!

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Why do you feel the time was right to make the move?

Here in Germany we tend to flog things to death. But that’s just not my mentality, I prefer to make the necessary changes.

We’ve always been moving, developing and offering cooperations. I already started the ball rolling in January 2019. For a number of the exhibitors, participating in another edition of Panorama at the exhibition grounds next year was out of the question. Now we have set a precedent, for cool brands with clear messages and added value for the consumers.

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‘Berlin’s fashion tradeshows in flux’ would make a good headline for the current situation. How do you see things at the moment, and what’s your view on future developments within, and also outside of Panorama Berlin?

The way I see it is that for quite a few seasons now, the overall mood has been oscillating between uncertainty and a sense of optimism. A tradeshow needs to have a clear profile and if you lose focus, you’ll also lose relevance and water down your concept. Highly coveted products are needed so that the consumer gets up off the sofa and makes their way to the store. The industry is asking for new tradeshow concepts and we are happy to respond. But the ones who are asking also need to understand that they are a part of the con‑ cept. If your brand is more likely to have a wait-and-see

attitude, you’re clearly a follower and not a creator, which means that you’re no longer a suitable brand for the visitors of Panorama Berlin.

‘Rebel with a cause’ is not only the credo, but also the concept of the upcoming edition of Panorama Berlin. Can you explain the idea behind it in more detail?

We are rebelling. Going against old structures. Our credo is an appeal for a fundamental rethink. The retail sector is urgently seeking innovations, fresh marketing measures, appealing cooperations, exciting events on the shop floor, visual storytelling, etc. Our exhibitors will be presenting exactly that, so we are fulfilling their demand.

The retail sector is urgently seeking innovations, fresh marketing measures, appealing cooperations, exciting events on the shop floor, visual storytelling, etc.

And to conclude, what would you like to say to the industry?

It’s time to get rid of the dead wood. And to the visitors: there’ll be a number of brands that you’ll no longer find exhibiting with us, but that’s a good thing! You can see clothing rails and outfits being paraded around in the showrooms, but at Tempelhof you’ll find the real innovations and inspiration.

To the exhibitors: you need to choose between ‘early adopters’ and ‘late followers’. I’m also directing this plea to the brands that aren’t exhibiting in Berlin but sending out their sales teams to approach retailers in the aisles of the halls!

TRADESHOW PREVIEWS Now that the move from Berlin’s trade fair grounds to Tempelhof Airport is official, the fashion industry is full of anticipation at what the new location will bring.

SELVEDGE RUN Berlin

14 — 16 January 2020

selvedgerun.com

Hot on the heels of Panorama Berlin, Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist are also making the move to Tempelhof Airport for their next edition. The tradeshow puts the spotlight on brands with high quality standards and sustainable production techniques, all while following the ethos that ‘Trends are for Suckers’.

Providing the retail sector with new and exciting inspiration, the typical Zeitgeist and Selvedge Run brands are highly compatible and offer huge potential. With the move to the new location, the tradeshow is venturing into the creative centre of the German capital and giving its brands an image-worthy platform at the heart of the city’s important Fashion Week locations.

“Our ‘Trends are for Suckers!’ ethos should be seen as food for thought for the brands and consumers of short-lived trends who don’t have a sense of responsibility for sustainability and fairness. At Selvedge Run, it isn’t about going higher and faster, but about values and mindset.

Tempelhof Airport is an awesome venue for hosting trade shows or events and I’m really looking forward to getting another fantastic event off the ground with the authentically grown Selvedge Run community from all over the world.”

Shane Brandenburg — founder of Selvedge Run

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MOVE TO MAKE PROGRESS

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DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION London

7 — 9 December 2019

denimpremierevision.com

LONDON CALLING Right in the heart of London, the next edition of Denim Première Vision will be held at Printworks, a new location that reflects its DNA and philosophy. The list of international exhibitors includes some of the most creative brands in the industry, who will be presenting the latest innovations and developments. With a focus on inspiring and contemporary denim collections, the show is presenting companies with a responsible and sustainable approach to materials and finishing and dyeing processes.

“We haven’t yet confirmed the next location for May 2020, but it will definitely be somewhere conducive to both business and fun.”

Guglielmo Olearo — International Exhibitions Director at Denim Première Vision

MODEFABRIEK Amsterdam

26 — 27 January 2020

modefabriek.nl

MORE THAN FASHION

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Modefabriek is a mix of brand presentations, fashion shows, exhibitions, business, conversations, food, drink, music and more. On both days of the tradeshow, the line-up of MF Talks will be offering inspiring presentations on trends, social media workshops, case studies from successful innovators and panels with pioneers from the retail sector. Their trend hub offers an essential fiveminute update and presents the industry’s must-haves, it-stores and brands to watch.

“Besides being very proud of all the brands on show, I really like the fact that we are showing ‘more than fashion’ with our incredibly inspiring accompanying line-up. Fashion professionals will have the chance to see new collections, meet people and find information and inspiration for their business. Creativity is in the DNA of Modefabriek. We understand that creativity is good business — and also good fun.”

Lucel van den Hoeven — CEO of Modefabriek

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Florence

7 — 10 January 2020

pittimmagine.com

THE HUB OF MENSWEAR

TRADESHOW PREVIEWS

PITTI UOMO Pitti Uomo is considered the global hub for trends, new ideas and the launch of innovative fashion and lifestyle projects for menswear. Its 97th edition is set to attract more than 30,000 visitors from 100 countries, around 18,000 of whom will be buyers.

“Every season we are seeing huge enthusiasm in the Fortezza da Basso and around the city, the first clear sign of the spirit of an entire industry that feels represented at Pitti Uomo and believes in the future, moving in harmony with all the big changes in communication, consumption and distribution, investing in research, materials and new technologies.”

Raffaello Napoleone — CEO of Pitti Immagine

KINGPINS Amsterdam

23 — 24 October 2019

kingpinsshow.com

DENIM DAYS

“There are so many topics buzzing around the denim industry, but one that I have seen gain attention and passion worldwide is that of making the denim industry better for the planet, better for the people who make jeans and better for the people who buy jeans. The Kingpins seminars and panels that are the best-attended and engage the audience the most across our shows in Amsterdam, New York, Hong Kong and China are those that deal with cleaning up, innovating and revolutionising the jeans industry.”

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Denim tradeshow Kingpins will once again be showcasing the latest trends along with information and inspiration from the denim sector. As usual, the Trend Forecast will be produced and presented by Amy Leverton from Denim Dudes. One of the main trends at Kingpins is ‘Polar Performance’: in keeping with the ‘Global Warming is Real’ motto, and as weather conditions continue to become more and more extreme, denim is taking on a new protective function in our wardrobes.

Erina Bajaras — Director of Communications & Media

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GALLERY FASHION Düsseldorf

25 — 27 January 2020 / Showroom concept 24 — 28 January 2020

gallery-duesseldorf.com

TRIED-AND-TESTED CONCEPT After starting out eight seasons ago with a smaller product selection in one hall, Gallery has meanwhile become a real German hotspot for international agencies and premium brands.

And the absolute highlight of Gallery Fashion, the new name for the sister show of Gallery Shoes, is the Showroom concept at the Areal Böhler. The concept has meanwhile grown to cover three entire halls, where business is done and orders are placed for a total of five to ten days. With its innovative Showroom concept, Gallery Fashion offers the ideal ordering atmosphere in a trendy industrialstyle location alongside compatible exhibitors and visitors.

“Our Showroom concept is a smart, temporary alternative to showrooms with long-term leases. It gives professional buyers and exhibitors a practical overview and also saves them money, effort and time.”

GALLERY SHOES Düsseldorf

8 — 10 March 2020

gallery-shoes.com

A MUST-ATTEND Gallery Shoes has its sights set on continuous further development and internationalisation. Digital themes will be the focus of the upcoming event in March 2020, along with Trend Pools and fashion shows in the Fashion Lifestyle Corner that put a spotlight on head-to-toe outfits. Gallery Shoes has already proven itself as the most important information platform for suppliers and one of the leading German tradeshows.

In the international shoe business it is regarded as a mustattend event.

“The positive development and international market positioning of Gallery Shoes is being emphasised by the fact that we are choosing the dates in coordination with foreign associations and tradeshows and working together on future projects. Professional visitors, especially those from Germany, Austria and Switzerland, the Benelux countries, Russia, the USA, Scandinavia and southern Europe come here to discover all the relevant trends and order must-have brands.”

Ulrike Kähler — Managing Director of Igedo Company and Project Director of Gallery Fashion and Gallery Shoes

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Munich

4 — 6 February 2020

munichfabricstart.com

THE FUTURE OF FABRICS

TRADESHOW PREVIEWS

MUNICH FABRIC START Munich Fabric Start brings together apparent opposites, combining them into a consolidated platform with an identity that clearly has its sights set on the future.

Its portfolio contains the latest fabric and accessories trends for ladies’ and menswear, denim and sports apparel, as well as kidswear in some sections. Accompanying events like Bluezone and Keyhouse will be keeping visitors updated on current themes and trends, as well as future market developments.

“We have created a future-oriented platform with and for the textile sector. Together with Bluezone, Keyhouse and View, which has meanwhile become a real favourite for many, Munich Fabric Start is a collaborative project by a committed team who always invest their full passion and a lot of heart and soul. Together with high-profile, internationally renowned experts like Li Edelkoort, we’ve created a Munich Fabric Start family with new visions, proven know-how and unlimited support, making each edition really special.”

Sebastian Klinder — Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start

ILM WINTER ST YLES 29 February – 2 March 2020

ilm-offenbach.de

NETWORKING & SUSTAINABILITY Arnd Hinrich Kappe, CEO of ILM, emphasises that the tradeshow is first and foremost a business and order platform. Nevertheless, it is still concerned with the topics of our times. And sustainability will also be an important theme of the coming edition in Offenbach. In addition to the daily trend talks and fashion shows, networking will be at the focus.

That includes a chill-out party, as well as an afterwork party in the foyer area.

“It is becoming increasingly important to create analogue opportunities for people to meet with each other in the digital era. At ILM we have noticed a growing desire among exhibitors and buyers to meet up face to face in a relaxed atmosphere. Digitalisation will also have an increasing impact on the tradeshow market, of course. It’s no longer about the mere showcasing of products like it used to be, but about an exchange of strategic opportunities, cooperation and discussions on possibilities and problems. And more the former than the latter, I hope.”

Arnd Hinrich Kappe — CEO of ILM Offenbach

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Offenbach

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TEXWORLD PARIS Paris

10 — 13 February 2020

texworld-paris.fr.messefrankfurt.com

EDUCATION & CREATIVITY Michael Scherpe, CEO of Messe Frankfurt France, knows exactly how to pool the synergies of his tradeshows and is using Texworld Paris, one of his many platforms, not only to inspire, but also to inform. In an interview, he explained to us what’s in store this coming February and what role the show is playing on the sustainability front.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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Your last shows were very successful. How is Texworld different from other textile fairs?

Messe Frankfurt France’s trade fairs, Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld, Shawls&Scarves, Texworld and Texworld Denim Paris, form a single entity that focuses on the fashion industry, its evolution and trends. Without comparing ourselves to others, we simply want to highlight the business and bring together a maximum of products, services and useful advice for our visitors. Of course, that doesn’t mean we are ignoring the more informative or creative aspects of the fashion industry.

For example, when we hosted Replica, we had an exhibition that presented the joint work of students from the Haute école des arts du Rhin (HEAR) art school in Strasbourg and five of our Texworld and Apparel Sourcing exhibitors.

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What can we expect from the 2020 show in February?

Our African exhibitors were all very successful at the last edition. That’s why we plan to continue in this direction and try to increase the number of companies coming from these new African sourcing countries, which are very much in demand by buyers. We also have projects with Turkey, one of our long-time partners, and South Korea, a country renowned for its work in technical textiles, for a win-win partnership and in line with our desire to further develop our sportswear sector. True to our policy, we will continue to promote collaborations with more fashion schools and their students, presenting their work at our shows and building relationships with future professionals — who are the clothing manufacturers of tomorrow. Obviously, we will also continue to develop projects related to sustainable development and craftsmanship. In general, we want to create more synergies with our different fairs and create new opportunities for exhibiting companies and our visitors.

You just mentioned sustainability — a key theme that is growing in importance. What is Texworld’s approach to this development?

Sustainability is a fundamental trend that started at our fairs more than 10 years ago with the creation of a Sustainable Sourcing itinerary for buyers across all our salons, bringing together weavers and confectioners who are ecologically responsible and have the appropriate certification to prove it.

This ecological guarantee seems to be gaining importance for the European consumer and the brands are aligning themselves by reworking their supplier lists. Alongside the general Trends Forum, Texworld Paris was already including green trends in a dedicated Trend Forum four years ago. It was one of the main themes of the September edition.

How important is the role of tradeshows in such developments and could they be doing more?

Our role is to support our visitors, as well as our exhibitors, in the exploration and implementation of these new expectations. This is reflected in events for the public on topics like sustainability such as the ‘green thread’ of last September with conferences that address topics that makes the headlines of the textile sector. As for our exhibitors, many show a great ability to adapt from one session to another, which is essential to this industry. Even just walking along the aisles, I was seeing an increase in the number of eco-friendly participants. As organisers, we also make sure we recycle our booths and décor.

What are you personally most excited about?

As always, I am excited about the Parisian market because it combines business and a genuine sense of style. This is the place where the world converges to ‘sniff out’ new trends and find out where fashion is heading. Consumers want more sustainability, more transparency, more recycled items, more comfort and more functional fabrics. They are buying more selectively, but they want reasonable prices at the same time.

I think it will be very interesting to see what the future brings.

AMSTERDAM FASHION TRADE EVENT – JANUARY 26+27 2020

INSIDER OPINION — HENK VAN DOP

HENK VAN DOP ON BECOMING “LESS BAD” Ecochain has a promise: “With our Environmental Intelligence Platform, everyone can make sustainable change.” We asked the company’s Sales Director Henk van Dop to give us a deeper insight into what that means.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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Your software can be used for the food, chemical, packaging, construction and even the fashion industry. So how do you become more sustainable by using Ecochain?

There’s not just one single thing you can do. It’s a multitude of actions you have to take, but the basics are: you have to engage with your stakeholders, your clients, suppliers, banks and with the government, your employees and the ones you want to attract — all based on data. What I believe and many companies have also realised: just saying that you are sustainable is not enough. It’s like saying your car has wheels. And people want to compare.

Sticking to the car analogy: if you’re looking for a fast car, you want to know how fast it is. If you’re looking for sustainable clothing, you want to know how sustainable it is.

And you want to choose a company that wants to become more sustainable and is doing everything it can to achieve that.

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Sustainability is about an entire life cycle. So why do people keep forgetting that when it comes to garments?

The life cycle of the product doesn’t end when the consumer buys it. It ends when the product is being disposed of or recycled. For example, a cotton item: you wear it, wash it and then maybe have to iron it, which costs more energy, therefore increasing the footprint.

All those steps contribute toward its environmental impact. If you take a blouse made of polyamide, it lasts longer than cotton, can be washed at 30 degrees instead of 40, and if you take it out of the washing machine it is basically wrinkle-free.

So if you want to design a piece of clothing, you should know the impact of those fabrics before you make your Henk van Dop is Sales Director at Ecochain Technologies final choices.

An interesting point. Enrique Silla from Jeanologia says that cotton is the better choice to make for the environment after all…

The cotton industry is benefiting from the developments, which is basically a shame because that means cotton is off the hook when it comes to the microfibre discussions that are going on at the moment. And microfibres are really scary for people, but we have been inhaling them for many years and don’t know what the impact is. We don’t have any substantial evidence or large-scale studies and we can’t gauge how bad it is because it’s really difficult to find these particles in the body.

And yes, when you think about the fact that you’re inhaling, eating or drinking microscopic pieces of plastic, of course it’s worrying, but if you look at the true environmental and human impact of cotton, it’s just as insane as the rest.

But how do you consult the cottondependent denim industry on becoming green?

To be honest, I’m wearing cotton right now — except for my shoes and my sweater. We are well aware that cotton isn’t going anywhere. Many companies are becoming more sustainable, which is good, but it should also be about becoming “less bad”. So Ecochain emphasises the hotspots; that’s what our software can do, so you can see where you have the most impact and where you can reduce your footprint. It’s only when you have insights into the entire supply chain, that you have the information to be able to redesign your product, and in so doing, lessen the environmental impact.

So with all your insights, how realistic are the chances of the industry becoming “less bad”?

Sometimes I feel like we’re too slow and won’t be able to steer clear of a tragedy, and some days I’m filled with joy by all the technical solutions and young people who are really trying to make a difference. But the biggest change comes from consumer behaviour. Consumers really want to know about the environmental impact of the products. It’s no longer about whether the clothing has been produced in an environmentally friendly way; it’s about how environmentally friendly the item is.

Then you can make a choice.

ECOCHAIN.COM

ILLUSTRATION NOUN PROJECT – NITHINAN TATAH

How would you explain the Ecochain concept in your own words?

It’s an environmental management platform in which companies can calculate their own footprint on a company, material, product and transport level. It is integrated into one big dashboard where you can see the impact of your processes or transportation, categorised for each individual product and material.

FA S H I O N

January 25 – 27, 2020 Showroom Concept January 24 – 28, 2020

March 8 – 10, 2020

AREAL BÖHLER

AREAL BÖHLER DÜSSELDORF

GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.COM

GALLERY-SHOES.COM

International, order-oriented trade shows for fashion, shoes and accessories with a mix of young and established brands based in Dusseldorf!