J'N'C Magazine 1/2016

JEANSWEAR And CONTEMPORARY FASHION

English

No 63 / 1-2016

No 63 / 1-2016

Cool CIties / Venice

Cool Cities Venice Street Styles Retail Talks ANd Service

INterviewS: Francesca Zara & Massimo Pigozzo, Enzo Fusco, Andrea CanÈ, Patrick CoppolecchiaReinartz, Simon Giuliani, Nick Ashley ENGLISH

D 9.50 Eur B/NL/A 10.50 EUr E/P/I 11.50 Eur CH 15.80 CHF

SUPERFIT DENIM

www.alberto-pants.com

Come and visit!

Panorama 路 hall 3 路 booth 3.27 shop online mustang-jeans.com

FACTORY HEROES THINK ORGANIC. WEAR YOUR BRAIN. Organic Cotton is woven through our minds and our actions.

We love doing what we do, most of all, because there is a reason “why� we do it.

KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL employs more than 3000 people worldwide and we are proud to have a positive impact on their work life and their families.

From cotton filed to factory floor we make sure that our fellow workers are treated with respect and care.

For AW16 we show you the heart of manufacturing and how important sustainability and quality are to us.

The fashion business is filled with contrast - from cotton field to retail floor, from poor to rich, from New Delhi to Stockholm and beyond.

Most importantly to us, is the idea that all the people we employ worldwide understand and appreciate the principles of sustainability.

KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL uses only Organic Cotton and sustainable materials to manufacture clever clothing.

Gain Knowledge.

Take Action.

Earn Respect.

sistes.it

HALLEN HALLS

3·4·5

HALLE HALL

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THE WINTER EDITION FROM 10 TO 12 FEBRUARY 2016 WILL ONCE AGAIN OFFER EXCITING COLLECTIONS, A COMPREHENSIVE TREND PROGRAMME AS WELL AS FRESH INSPIRATIONS FOR RETAILERS TO DESIGN THEIR RANGES. AS AN IMPULSE-GENERATING EVENT FOR THE 2016 AUTUMN/WINTER SEASON GDS OFFERS MORE THAN 800 BRANDS – THE PLATFORM TO PRESENT THEIR NEW COLLECTIONS AND HIGHLIGHTS TO AN INTERNATIONAL AUDIENCE. INSPIRED BY THE SHOPPING METROPOLISES OF THIS WORLD, THE STUDIO, HIGHSTREET AND POP UP LIFESTYLE WORLDS REFLECT THE ENTIRE RANGE FROM URBAN AND HIP LABELS AND MODERN TO CLASSIC STYLES THROUGH TO PREMIUM SHOE FASHIONS.

Kids will appear for the first time with their own stand. Groupe Royer will be showcasing collections by Kickers Kids, Astaire, Mod’8 and Robeez in the Kids Area. The POP UP Area will be presenting the brands Ten Points, Est1842 und NEWFS for the first time.

TRENDS @ GDS The overarching trend theme on the Highlight Route will be “Fusion of Digital and Real Life Shop Experience”. Under this motto the analogue and digital worlds are brought together in a meaningful way. The GDS Fashion Shows in Hall 10 and the Trend Spots in Hall 5 provide comprehensive insights into the seasonal trends for 2016. The Forum Touch is a comprehensive information pool for textures and surfaces.

FASHION SHOWS

1

opinion leaders will be reporting on the latest shoe trends and must-haves of the coming season.

The new blogger testimonials along with four other bloggers will showcase unique looks at the Blogger Runway Show.

Together with styleranking February 2016 will see the FashionBloggerCafé “shoedition” enter its fourth round at GDS. The FashionBloggerCafé offers a varied programme for international fashion bloggers.

TAG IT! – THE PRIVATE LABEL SHOW One date, one city, two trade shows. Running in parallel to GDS, tag it! – The Private Label Show – will be held for the fourth time now and will be staged in Hall 1 of Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre. International flair is at the forefront here with Asian manufacturers presenting their collections particularly aimed at international retailers of shoes and accessories with a focus on sourcing and private label productions.

NEW AT GDS The HIGHSTREET segment awaits visitors with an exciting newcomer: with its participation Timberland underlines the international importance of GDS. Furthermore, the STUDIO segment is delighted at the return of Lottusse, the brand that has been causing a stir with high-quality collections and not just this season. The POP UP Area in Hall 10 also awaits the return of G-STAR. In the high-end premium segment STUDIO new brands like Oliver Sweeney, La Bottega di Lisa, Megumi Ochi, Fratelli Lisco, Nina Originals, Kenneth Cole, Miista, Esseutesse and Roy Robson delight visitors. Accessories by Mur86phy as well as bags from Philipp-Lacquer and Another Bag enhance the STUDIO Area.

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POP UP Market

HALLE HALL

GDS – PLATFORM FOR INFORMATION, INSPIRATION AND IMPULSES

HALLE HALL

FASHION BLOGGERS: SUCCESS ENTERS ITS FOURTH ROUND Newcomers in the HIGHSTREET Area include: Lyle&Scott, Rockland, Franzini and Via Scarpa. In the accessories segment Street Level presents trendy bag styles. The Kids segment is supplemented by exciting collections by Shoo Pom, Stones and Bones, Bergstein, Shwik and Move by Melton. EMU Australia

Sisters Julia and Sylvia Haghjoo are the new testimonial bloggers for GDS in February 2016. Hailing from Hamburg Julia (22) and Sylvia Haghjoo (26) have successfully operated their blogs “N°93” and “HUG YOU” for six years now. On Instagram alone they boast over 100,000 followers. For three days these two

GDS DATES IN 2016 From 10 to 12 February 2016 GDS and tag it! events will run as usual from Wednesday to Friday. As of July 2016 a new sequence of days will apply: 26 to 28 July, from Tuesday to Thursday. The new scheduling means Friday, one of the highest earning days in retail, can be avoided.

For more information visit: www.gds-online.com

Editorial

Editorial

‘Made in Italy’: Still a seal of quality?

Italy is a dream destination. When it comes to art, style and craftsmanship the country can proudly look back on centuries of tradition.

AUTUMN / WINTER 2016/17

19 - 21 JANUARY 2016

ARENA BERlIN

W W W .s E E kE x h IBIT Io Ns .c o M

topic of Italy is Andrea Canè, creative director of WP Lavori in Corso, the company behind the Woolrich brand. We sampled the most delicious pasta alla Bolognese in Bologna before he explained his vision of what is set to replace the heritage movement that has dominated the fashion scene for the past few years. Fredericke Winkler, J’N’C’s fabrics specialist, spoke to Simon Giuliani, marketing manager of Candiani Denim near Milan, about the new development centre and the green potential in the world of indigo, while Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, owner of the agency D-tails and a distribution expert with Italian roots, had an interesting conversation with our contributor Gerlind Hector.

But Italy isn’t the only place where there’s a lot going on: here in Germany the wheels are also in motion. In order to provide you with even more targeted information, we have decided to add more of a service slant to J’N’C: in our new ‘Must Buys’ section you can read all about the products that we consider essential to a modern retail range and can highly recommend. ‘Four Elements’ is a rundown of styling suggestions for products, bringing a focus to brands you may not have had on your radar until now. It will also help the shop owners amongst you to round off your portfolio with some fresh new names.

J’N’C News, published parallel to this magazine, has also shifted a stronger focus onto service, with new topics and new focal points. We have some exciting plans for the upcoming issues of these two J’N’C publications this year, so get ready for more surprises!

We hope you have a successful start to the season and also that you enjoy the virtual trip to Italy with us.

Ilona Marx

Ilona Marx Days after her return from Venice, Ilona Marx still had the unsteady gait of a sailor after spending so much time on the Venetian vaporetti and their teetering jetties. Together with photographer Bernd Wichmann she embarked on a mission to scout the coolest locations for this issue’s Cool Cities guide.

One thing the two of them now know: quickly popping to the other side of Venice is an impossible feat.

READ THE GERMAN VERSION OF THIS EDITORIAL ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/ JNC_MAGAZINE

63 — 01/2016

coNT E M P oRARY f As h IoN T RAd E s h oW

But what’s the status quo of Italian fashion? This is the question we’d frequently been asking ourselves over the past months. After all, the ‘Made in Italy’ stamp has always denoted a certain exclusivity, as well as extravagant designs and well-crafted products.

Prada, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani – the list of lthe country’s large fashion dynasties is endless. And in terms of more democratic, affordable brands, Italy has always had a good nose for quality. Woolrich, Blauer, C.P. Company, Stone Island, Replay, Diesel: in recent years these protagonists in the casualwear sector have been decisive in defining style for a large swathe of the population, with just as many male as female fans in the fashion department.

All the more reason to take regular trips across the Alps and see what’s going on. In recent years we have covered Rome, Milan and Florence, and this time we set our sights on Venice. While the city is primarily known for its Murano glass, the fame of its weaving mills has not spread in the same way; nevertheless the Veneto region has the reputation of being home to some of the best production facilities in Italy. So we not only scoured the beautiful lagoon city and its retail scene for this issue, but also took a few trips to the mainland.

Barena Venezia was our first port of call. Francesca Zara and Massimo Pigozzo provided us with insights into their work on a collection inspired by Venice’s clothing traditions. How does the pair manage to design, market and distribute a fashion line that is becoming more and more successful whilst also retaining a good work-life balance? The enthusiastic couple let us in on the secret from page 66. Enzo Fusco, founder of FGF Industry and an old hand in the casualwear scene, was the second interview partner we visited. He talked to us about his love of old uniforms and modern functional materials. You can read our interview with Fusco on page 68.

Another high-ranking interview partner on the

P h o To g RAP h Y BY l U kAs k o R s chA N – f R o M Th E s E R I E s «fA M I l I A R f Ac Es » 17

COntentS

Ove r v i ew

CONTENTS

The Masterpieces

33

Street Styles

54

Venice Retail

56

108

24

P. Coppolecchia

86

Must Buys

Four Elements

70

Andrea Canè

82

Enzo Fusco

68

78

Fashion Shoots

90

63 — 01/2016

Textiles & Trends

52

Cool Cities Venice

Bits & Pieces

On the denim TrAIL 18

108

Column

22

Fashion Shoots

98

10 Questions For ...

114

AUTUMN / WINTER 2016 PITTI Florence 12 - 15 Jan

PROJECT Las Vegas 14 - 18 Feb

MODEFABRIEK Amsterdam 24 - 25 Jan

COTERIE New York 22 - 24 Feb

ISPO Munich 24 - 27 Jan

bench.co.uk

ORTAANADOLU.COM

COntentS

Ove r v i ew

COntentS Fashion shoots

Editorial Contents Imprint Column / Contributors Bits & Pieces

17 18 20 22 24

The Masterpieces

33

roller coaster afternoon

cool Cities venice

52

Textiles & Trends

Street Styles Retail Service

54 56 62

Talks – barena venezia francesca zara & massimo pigozzo

66

Talks – fgf industry enzo fusco

68

must buys

70

four elements

78

valeria mitelman

yesterday you said tomorrow

90

domenic herder

98

simon giuliani, candiani s.p.a.

do you speak denim?

108

denim premiere vision, barcelona.

on the denim trail

110

Ten Questions For nick ashleY

creative director of private white v.c.

114

brands & brains

A REMIX OF RETRO AWESOMENESS

andrea cane, woolrich

fisherman's friend

82

patrick coppolecchia-reinartz, d-tails

what is your vision?

Publisher EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Hildebrandtstr. 24 d 40215 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de

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Publishing Management Michael Rieck

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Editor-in-Chief Ilona Marx /im Associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

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EDITOR ­ heryll Mühlen ­/cm C Freelance Contributors Gerlind Hector /gh, Fredericke Winkler /fw Photography Cathrin Beck, Domenic Herder, Valeria Mitelman, Sorin Morar, Bernd Wichmann Illustration Frauke Berg Translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de

Design & Layout Martin Steinigen, chewing the sun www.chewingthesun.com Image Editing Jean Pascal Zahn Copy Editors Paula Hedley, Eva Westhoff Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern Advertising Director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 151 p.daveta@jnc-net.de

Price Germany 9.50 EUR A, NL, B 10.50 EUR; E, P, I 11.50 EUR Switzerland 15.80 CHF Bank Details BTV - Bank für Tirol und Vorarlberg AG IBAN DE25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 SWIFT BTVADE61XXX Data Protection Notice In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers.

The sub­scriber can appeal against this guideline. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright.

The place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases Düsseldorf.

TUNE INTO

BLUFREQUENCY

TM

column

TEXT Gerlind Hector Illustration Frauke Berg

Some of our

Contributors

Valeria Mitelman Valeria is more than just a pretty face – she’s also multilingual and studied philo­ sophy and art. The photographer with Russian roots is wonderfully versatile and also the perfect team player. Which made her the ideal choice for our photo shoot in Berlin-Mitte, during which she showed model Angelina in her best light. Here Valeria used her imagination and concentration to ensure the perfect flow and inspired the whole team. Luckily she didn’t have far to travel to the set: after working in Hamburg, Edinburgh and London she has now settled in the German capital together with her family.

Everyone has said, one cannot change the laws of nature. Hard work and a creative mindset proved there were no laws, just accepted limitations.

Column

63 — 01/2016

When is a Man a Man?

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In response to the question of whether he regretted not being able to wear his creations himself, Christian Louboutin, the god of high heels, is said to have answered: “No, absolutely not! When I saw myself in front of the mirror wearing high heels, I certainly didn’t have a Cinderella moment.

I just looked ridiculous.” Interesting words that fashion-savvy men should certainly take to heart. Not that most of them would enjoy teetering around on 12cm-high stilettos anyway – apart from Jorge González and Conchita Wurst perhaps. But due to a lack of inspiration the males of the species are starting to be plagued by self-doubt, turning to their mothers, girlfriends or little sisters for fashion inspiration.

A recent woeful example of this is the ‘man bun’, or topknot as it’s also known. The bun for men has been touted as the ultimate ontrend hairstyle for quite some time now and was most likely invented by female 20-something fashion bloggers, who wouldn’t be seen without a messy bird’s nest atop their heads in the front rows of all the fashion shows. According to those in the know, it’s meanwhile already passé – but there are still plenty of young guys out there who obviously didn’t get the memo. They are too busy rejoicing at the invention of the ‘clip-in bun’ – meaning that even guys who are lacking in the hair department can keep up with the hipsters. Sorry, but they are even making Donald Trump and his distinctive quiff look cool.

So dear men, hear our plea: why not start focusing on your own strengths and typically masculine attributes once again? And

kindly find out yourselves what they could be.

Please leave the skin-tight jeans, in which you either squeeze your family jewels to within an inch of their life, or look like a disabled stork, and also the bags, i.e. silly hipster canvas totes, to us ladies. And it’s time to step away from the nail polish because metrosexual is a thing of the past. This is something that even David Beckham has cottoned onto and has since been rightfully voted the ‘Sexiest Man Alive’. He wouldn’t be seen dead with a man bun these days! And anyway, there’s definitely something dubious about the guys who spend more hours in the bathroom doing their hair than women need for their full evening make-up. Highlights, blow-dries or crazy gel creations are definitely not sexy.

Incidentally, according to a current study, 58 percent of all women would never date a man with a bun. And the remaining 42 percent would most likely only do so out of sympathy.

Tragically, YouTube is meanwhile teeming with man bun tutorials, and on Instagram there’s even an account showing just photos of male bun-wearers at Disneyland. Which takes us back to Cinderella – and, coming full circle, also to Christian Louboutin, who incidentally stands by his balding head, which he combines with very manly, laid-back stubble. In the meantime, any males currently sporting a topknot should take a long, hard look in the mirror and if they’re seriously experiencing their very own Cinderella moment, then who are we to stand in the way of their happiness?!

Meet a true revolution in stretch. Flawless looks and shapes. Of course.

But so much more behind the scenes. A new breed was born when we challenged the limitations of stretch denim.

Domenic Herder From Saarbrücken to Namibia – Domenic Herder, who meanwhile calls Hamburg his home, lived on several continents when he was a child, which is perhaps also why he has maintained his eternal curiosity and an eye for the right visuals. He couldn’t wait to shoot the ‘Roller Coaster Afternoon’ fashion editorial for us at Hamburg’s Dom funfair and, despite being afraid of heights, managed to scale one or two of the fairground rides to get the perfect shot. Prior to taking the photos, he scouted the most photogenic spots on his bicycle – very sporty! Domenic loves sushi, dedicates a lot of his spare time to film, travel and music and, as a former pupil of a Waldorf school, he can no doubt also dance his name – we’re looking forward to a demonstration next time we see him.

Tanja Becker “Always use sunscreen” is Tanja Becker’s top advice, and she should know: in her free time, the stylist loves riding wild waves on her surfboard. Tanja comes from Kassel right in the centre of Germany and made her way to Berlin via a few detours.

Back when she left school no one had heard of the profession ‘stylist’ – but with an advertising degree and a stint at a fashion agency, Tanja Becker simply created her own job profile and soon became indispensable on the fashion scene. After four years in the city on the River Spree, it’s time for another change of scenery.

But before she packs her suitcase and heads off to New York, we were lucky enough to get her on board for a fashion editorial.

We are not cut that way.

That is why there is a new standard for stretch denim now.

Bits & Pieces

Bits & Pieces

Cheap Monday:

Proud to be a nerd!

Timezone:

For Real People Whether you’re in the great outdoors, at a club or getting cosy on the sofa: Timezone has all bases covered with their three looks for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season: ‘Playing Outside’, ‘A Dark Night Out’ and ‘Refuel & Relax’.

Outdoor fans will appreciate the rough washes with destroyed-look details – all combined with the stretchability factor. More elegant pieces, dominated by darker tones, clean washes and coatings are perfect for when you’re partying until dawn, while jogging-style denims and snuggly sweaters ensure you won’t have to forgo style on a cosy night in. And we can’t ask for more than that. /cm www.timezone.de

Prestel Publishing:

The Who’s Who of Fair Fashion Even if you wanted to, it would be impossible to ignore the topic of sustainability in the world of fashion. And that’s a good thing. In their new book ‘Fashion Made Fair: Modern – Innovative – Sustainable’ the writers Magdalena Schaffrin and Ellen Köhrer are showcasing the who’s who of sustainable fashion, 33 designers in total, rounded off with exciting interviews with experts from the fashion industry. A must-read! The hardcover 192-page book will be out in April 2016 and is published by Prestel. /cm

Let’s celebrate our inner nerd. At least that’s what the Swedish H&M subsidiary Cheap Monday is asking us to do in its pre-fall 2016 collection ‘Bad Nerd’. After all, it’s nerds we have to thank for technological advances, creativity and innovation. As a homage to this often undervalued genius, the designers have sourced their inspiration from the classic ‘Big Bang Theory meets Steve Urkel’ look.

The result is daring colour combinations, striking patterns and signs of wear and tear.

Boy Scout elements like badges and patches underline the look, as well as geometrical shapes and contrasting seams. Another recurring feature is the ‘dogtooth print’. The denims are tinted, worn and mended with offset blue tones and repair embroideries in slightly off-colour threads. Nerds unite! /cm www.cheapmonday.com

www.randomhouse.de/prestel

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LENZBURG JACKET

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WeAr SELECT | Stand D09 PITTI | Padiglion Centrale, Piano Terra | Stand K4 SEEK | Booth B-30

MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884

Bits & Pieces

Wrangler:

Sitting Pretty Camel Active:

The fact that the perfect pair of jeans don’t have a fixed size is something the experts at Wrangler jeans have discovered in a recent study. Apparently, something that works well in one jeans size may not work as well in another. This was a weakness of many jeans producers until now: the traditional practice is that the sample size is fixed and then simply scaled up or down to make all other sizes. For the autumn/winter 2016 collection Wrangler is questioning this methodology and has tailored each size individually for its ‘Body Bespoke’ collection. They are utilising Shape Ready fabrics, a combination of cotton and Lycra dualFX, so the wearer also benefits from the shaping technology. For the perfect fit, regardless of how tall or short you are. /cm

Border Crossing “Functionality is one of the focal points at Camel Active in autumn/ winter 2016/17,” creative director Guido Johnen tells us. “Along with the standard properties of water resistance and breathability, we are also looking at ergonomics, elasticity and new material combinations across all product groups”. And in doing so the Camel Active team has also pushed the boundaries and ventured into unknown terrain – for their menswear range as well as for the womenswear. In addition to unusual materials, they have also experimented with new coatings to put traditional styles in a new fresh context, not forgetting multi-pocket solutions, new fastenings and reflectors. Good news for everyone who loves a trip into nature just as much as a foray into the urban jungle. /cm

www.wrangler.com

www.camelactive.de

Replay:

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Hyper! Hyper!

Hyper-elastic. Hyper-light. Hyper-natural.

Hyperskin. The team from Italian jeans label Replay have joined forces with the Turkish manufacturers from Isko, all in the name of athleisure, the most comfortable fashion trend. For all the ladies out there wanting to do yoga exercises during their lunch break in the office, Replay’s Hyperskin Jeans are making it possible.

With their high elasticity they can adapt to every movement – even the sun salutation! And their excellent recovery ensures that they spring back to their original form after all kinds of stretching. Weighing in at only 200g per square metre they are also breaking new records in terms of lightweight quality and, thanks to the exclusive use of natural fibres, also breathable. /cm www.replayjeans.com

Ace & Tate :

Full Metal Please allow us to introduce the steely trio: ‘James’, ‘Eddie’ and ‘Dave’. These three new, extremely filigree models by Amsterdam-based it-eyewear label Ace & Tate are taking cues from this season’s androgynous trend – in brushed silver and elegant matte black. With their new additions the eyewear specialists are perfectly rounding off their existing range of metal frames and once again proving their sense of aesthetics and style in this third collection phase. And to make sure everyone can benefit from the cool styles, the label is now also offering bifocals, which you can order online or at its flagship and pop-up stores. /cm www.aceandtate.de

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birkenstock.com/shoes

MIT DEM ORIGINAL BIRKENSTOCK FUSSBETT

Bits & Pieces

Amsterdam Denim Days:

Celebrate Indigo Between 11th and 17th of April 2016 the Dutch national colour ‘oranje’ will once again be cast in the shade of indigo blue during this one-week denim festival. For the third edition of Amsterdam Denim Days flocks of denim lovers from all over the world will be making their pilgrimage to the Dutch capital in celebration of jeans. “From brands and makers to wearers and speakers” is this year’s motto, which thanks to the varied programme on offer effortlessly covers business-only to public events – not least with the support of an extensive denim network, including names like Denham, Scotch & Soda and Kings of Indigo as well as numerous independent brands. The denim festival, Blueprint, which is open to the public, will be hosted for two days on 15th and 16th April in the old gasworks buildings of the Westergasfabriekterrein and features a curated selection of outstanding denim brands. The line-up is rounded off by workshops, seminars as well as exclusive exhibitions and plenty to enjoy from a culinary and musical perspective. Professionals are catered to at the Kingpins Show in the Gashouder event space of the Westergasfabriek venue from 13th to 14th April. The tradeshow event, which covers the entire topic of denim sourcing, will also be accompanied by a series of seminars that will kick off on 12th April. /cm

Victorinox:

A legend of its own

Liu Jo:

Bottoms Up The Bottom Up jeans by Liu Jo celebrated their debut in 2008 and impressed wearers with a reversed yoke and double dart that shape the silhouette and delivers on its flattering promise. Eight years on, the once-revolutionary jeans by the Italian brand have been developed further and for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season is presenting itself as the ‘Bottom Up Amazing Fit’ in the two classic models: ‘Divine’ and ‘Magnetic’. Both are made of Isko Blue Skin, the latest generation of the best stretch material in which both the warp and weft are elastic and the jeans provide flexibility as well derriere-shaping properties with the famous bottom-up effect – elongated legs and curvalicious figure included. /cm

If you ever find yourself involved in a real adventure, you’ll be well equipped as long as you have the new Victorinox I.N.O.X. Paracord on your wrist. The impressive timepiece has a bevelled bezel, three hands, date display and has passed 130 endurance tests with flying colours. But the best thing of all is that it’s made of parachute threads which can be put to use in emergency survival situations – whether as shoelaces or even as towing lines for a car or boat. But don’t worry: after its adventures the I.N.O.X. Paracord can return to regular watch status – the Swiss company offers full restoration of the braided wrist strap. The exclusive edition, created in cooperation with Swedish outdoor brand Naimakka, is available in two versions: in camouflage green or with the black dial with black wristband. Each model comes with a removable transparent bumper marked with the points of the compass. Multifunctional, rugged, out of the ordinary and fashionable – definitely one to watch out for. /cm

TRIGENIC FLEX C R A F T E D

I N N O V A T I O N

www.victorinoxwatches.com

www.amsterdamdenimdays.com www.liujo.com

Björn Borg:

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Stepping Out of the Underwear Shadow “We keep developing. Primarily well known for our men’s underwear, we have developed into a comprehensive sports fashion brand,” explains James Lee, head of design at Björn Borg, talking about the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection. Beginning with this collection, the Swedish label is developing its new design and character. “Since we switched to sports fashion, a new focus has opened up for us: functionality.” The fact that the designer was inspired by tennis rackets and tennis courts for the new collection can be seen as a homage to the tennis legend and label’s namesake Björn Borg. While the contours of the racket served as inspiration for the cuts, court boundary lines inspired the colour blocking designs and the mix of different materials, as well as the use of reflective elements. The best example is the black running jacket with a vertical reflective stripe down the back. Which, incidentally, is James Lee’s favourite item in the collection. /cm www.bjornborg.com 28

BESUCHEN SIE UNS AUF DER GDS AN DEM CLARKS STAND HALLE 4 STAND G33 | 10.-12. FEBRUAR 2016

The Masterpieces

The Masterpieces Editor’s Pick

J’N’C Proudly Presents: The masterpieces that have what it takes to become true favourites

TEXT CHeryll Mühlen

63 — 01/2016

Photos Bernd Wichmann

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The Masterpieces

Jacket love – Drykorn

19 – 21 JA NUA RY 2 0 16

63 — 01/2016

Alton Drykorn

As soon as you set eyes on this ultra-soft kidskin jacket, you’ll want to put it on and never take it off – that’s exactly how we felt when it landed on our desk. ‘Alton’ is the name of the caramelcoloured jacket with ‘wow’ factor and jersey inserts on the collar, sleeves and sides from the Drykorn womenswear spring/ summer 2016 collection. Both the colour and style of the blouson are a nod to the cool looks of the wild seventies and therefore

ideal for the revival of flared denims, hippie prints and free-spirit attitudes.

It would also be a good look at the party for the German label’s 20-year anniversary, which it will be celebrating with its international fan community this year.

Incidentally: blouson is the French word for jacket. But you can see for yourselves that ‘Alton’ is so much more than a mere jacket. www.drykorn.com

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THE EUROPEAN MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING FASHION BRANDS w w w.panorama-berlin.com

The Masterpieces

Made to last – Victorinox

FEBRUARY 13 –15 2016

Mason B Blouson Victorinox

63 — 01/2016

‘Makers of the Original Swiss Army Knife’ – these words proudly adorn the label of the ‘Mason B Blouson’ from the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

by Victorinox. But with their smart and functional

outerwear collections, under the creative auspices of British designer Christopher Ræburn, the traditional Swiss brand has long since been proving that their skills go beyond the art of knife-making. A particular gem is the ‘Mason B Blouson’, which has two large outside pockets and a total of four inside pockets, including a small piped pocket for your keys or change as well as one designed especially for your

JANUARY 19–21 2016 STATIONBERLIN beloved smartphone. Also practical is the wire-reinforced hood visor that protects from wind and rain. And so you don’t have to make any sacrifices in terms of style or comfort in the freezing cold, Victorinox has opted for the lighter, more robust and more compressible www.victorinox.com

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MOC MUNICH

alternative to goose down: Primaloft. Bring on your worst, winter! We’re ready for you!

www.premiumexhibitions.com

The Masterpieces

All over overalls – Humanoid

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Carly Humanoid From the farm to the petrol station to a street style favourite – no, we’re not talking about the rapid ascent of a blogging star, but about the astonishing career of a fashionable classic: overalls. The onepiece, which has its roots in the rough and ready working world, has been celebrating its comeback for quite a while now, which no doubt has a lot to do with the versatility of this wardrobe staple. A particularly impressive example is the ‘Carly’ model from the pre-spring 2016 collection by Dutch label Humanoid.

The deep blue, loose-fit women’s style made of 100 percent cotton can be combined to look sporty and casual or sexy and elegant – depending on your mood or the occasion. Two large front pockets and a belt emphasise the feminine silhouette. Time to work those overalls! www.humanoid.nl 36

VISIT US AT PREMIUM H3–E22

WWW.G-LAB.COM

The Masterpieces

Living history – Tabarrificio Veneto

15/18 Tabarrificio Veneto

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Convinced that the style of the good old days would still be highly appreciated by future generations, in 1976 Sandro Zara from Venice, together with his wife Mariagrazia Marzola, decided to make traditional coats using tried-andtested methods under the name Tabarrificio Veneto. Since then they have been passionately committed to the legacy of almost-forgotten sartorial skills, creating unique classics based on archive patterns, museum and private collections. Like the ‘15/18’ cape. It has its origins in military clothing and was

worn

by Italian soldiers and officers during the First World War. This khaki-coloured version is made of 90 percent new wool and 10 percent cashmere.

To guarantee its authenticity, each cape is identified by a number and name, just like every coat by Tabarrificio Veneto.

Incidentally, mastermind Sandro Zara is the founder of another www.tabarro.it

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THE ICONIC BOMBER SCHOTT NYC MA-1

traditional brand: you can find out more about Barena Venezia, where Sandro’s daughter Francesca is womenswear designer, in our Masterpiece on page 50.

www.schott.eu | SEEK Contemporary Fashion Trade Show, 19.-21.01.16, BOOTH C-67 New Showroom: Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 Düsseldorf

The Masterpieces

Not just for good little girls – Paul & Joe Sister

LE CLASSIC, L’ AUTHENTIC, L’ ORIGINAL. Made in France

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Sammy Paul & Joe Sister As the name suggests, Peter Pan collars represent childlike charm, making the wearer look quite demure and decorous. The fact that demure can still look great, and even subtly sexy, is being proven by the ‘Sammy’ T-shirt from the spring/summer 2016 collection by Paul & Joe Sister. The French label is renowned for its feminine designs and grown-up interpretations of girlish styles. Just like

‘Sammy’, whose stand-out feature is its lace Peter Pan collar, which extends all the way to the button facing and turns this coarsely ribbed cottonviscose shirt into a genuine www.paulandjoe.com

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classic that every woman should have hanging in her wardrobe. After all, this is a shirt that can be combined both with elegant

pieces and your favourite jeans – which is how we would also wear it. And anyway, Peter Pan isn’t just a child, but also a bit of a rebel.

Premium International Fashion Trade Show, Hall 1, Booth B-13 www.espadrij.com | # e spadrij | instragram.com / e spadrij | facebook.com / e spadrij.eu New Showroom: Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 Düsseldorf

The Masterpieces

Style to go – Stiebich & Rieth

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To Go Stiebich & Rieth

No computers, no sketches: those are the rules established

by Julia Rieth and Detlef Stiebich at their Hamburg leather manufactory. In their eyes, designing can only take place in the third dimension. They use the best leather they can find, from Italy, France and Spain, which is exclusively vegetable-tanned, using natural tanning agents from chestnut root or mimosa bark.

Using the finest craftsmanship, the robust saddle leather is then sewn together with waxed yarn and the two-needle-technique.

This not only guarantees the perfect look that Stiebich & Rieth aspire to with their collections, but also maximum stability to ensure that the products can be enjoyed for many years to come.

As demonstrated by the ‘To Go’

model: the stylish shoulder bag with the practical dimensions 25 x 21 x 9 cm comes with a 62cm-long, adjustable strap and two small inside pockets. The gold-coloured details in solid brass add harmonious highlights www.stiebich-rieth.com

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to the bag’s universal nude tone, and the easy-to-close press stud ensures that its contents are also safely stowed away. Quality made in Germany.

DISCOVER OUR NEW AUTUMN / WINTER COLLECTION PANORAMA, BERLIN: 19.– 21.01.16 WWW.CAMELACTIVE.DE

HALL 3, 3.08

The Masterpieces

More than meets the eye – Private White V.C.

PME-LEGEND.COM

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Ventile Combat Travel Blazer Private White V.C.

This jacket isn’t just a pretty face: it’s also water-repellent, thanks to its special material, Ventile, a high-quality woven cotton fabric produced in Lancashire. “The idea was to have a blazer that will take you through a heavy shower, which has big enough pockets to stash all your electronic devices whilst travelling and is smart enough for a trip to the embassy www.privatewhitevc.com

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to get a replacement passport for the return trip back home,” is how creative director Nick ­Ashley explains the idea behind the multi-talent. As an adventurer, biker, racing driver and globetrotter he

knows exactly when it comes down to more than style – and when it’s time to provide more than just a classic cagoule.

Another plus point: the two zipped pockets on the inside and the two outside pockets are oversized. And like the entire Private White V.C. collection, the ‘Ventile Combat Travel Blazer’ is made by hand at the company’s own factory in Manchester.

The Masterpieces

Back to black – Lala Berlin

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Aronoff Lala Berlin Ladies and gentlemen, allow us to introduce a fabulous example of irresistibly beautiful simplicity, characterised by elegance, minimalism and coolness. This black, almost ankle-length coat with narrow lapels, which goes by the name ‘Aronoff’, effortlessly combines this trio of attributes.

But above all it’s the slim fit that makes this supposedly simple new wool style by German label Lala Berlin a must-have piece that’s truly in a class of its own.

In terms of detail, Lala Berlin’s www.lalaberlin.com 46

creative director Leyla Piedayesh has limited herself to two concealed press stud buttons and two concealed welt pockets. And the result speaks, as you can see, for itself. But don’t say we didn’t warn you: if you choose to wear this coat from the current autumn/winter collection, don’t be surprised by all the admiring glances you’ll inevitably attract.

2-4 FEB 16 I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R FABRICS | ADDITIONALS | BLUEZONE | DESIGN STUDIOS MUNICHFABRICSTART.COM

The Masterpieces

Treading new paths – Clarks

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Trigenic Flex Clarks This men’s shoe doesn’t fit into any category – at least not into any standard one. The ­‘Trigenic Flex’ by traditional British shoemaking brand Clarks, which will soon be celebrating its 200-year anniversary, impresses with its hybrid character, a cross between sneaker, desert boot and moccasin, as well as with its high-class sports technology in the form of the lightweight Vibram sole. With its three-part construction it’s not only incred-

ibly flexible and therefore also comfortable, but also sturdy, durable and non-slip. Together with the light-coloured nubuck leather and the high-quality stitched detailing the result is a minimalistic must-have look. It’s hard to believe that the inspiration for the ‘Trigenic Flex’ comes www.clarks.com

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from the original Clarks ‘Hygiene’ design from the year 1883. This new model is an ultra-modern fusion of training and leisurewear shoe.

The Masterpieces

Strikingly minimalistic – Barena Venezia

Amsterdam Denim Days 2016

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The Cilly Barena Venezia

This masterpiece was selected by Barena Venezia’s womenswear designer Francesca Zara personally.

“It’s unique and has character without being loud,” is how she briefly but succinctly describes ‘The Cilly’. After all, this widecut, long coat is typically Italian, stylish and elegant. And with its concealed buttons, it is more about minimalism than opulence.

But it also has a lavish side: the material. Made of 32 percent cotton, 26 percent wool, 12 percent polyamide, 11 percent mohair, 11 percent alpaca wool and 8 percent linen, it is a joy to wear. The coat not only keeps its wearer warm, but is wonderfully lightweight and doesn’t shed its fibres. The original material, which served as inspiration, is by an Italian fabric designer from Prato in Tuscany. And still today ‘The Cilly’ is produced under the attentive eye of Barena Venezia exclusively in Italy, exemplarily continuing the tradition of Italian handcraftsmanship. www.barenavenezia.com

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Celebrate all things indigo 11 - 17 april 2016 Westergasfabriek & City Center

Check our program and updates on www.amsterdamdenimdays.com

In addition to mass tourism, there’s another

Cool Cities / Venice

Cool Cities / Venice

Text Ilona Marx Photos Bernd Wichmann

side to Venice: the international art and film scene regularly descends on the

Cool Cities

lagoon city.

Venice

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From the Rialto Bridge to Doge’s Palace, down to St. Mark’s Basilica – as a result of its extraordinary architecture and wealth of art treasures, Venice was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

But the beauty of the city also brings its downsides: an estimated 20 million tourists visit Venice every year. The majority are day-trippers, who arrive on the big cruise ships and spend little money, but leave behind a lot of rubbish. Venice is also sinking continuously – in the past century the city has sunk 23 centimetres into the sea. The shifting foundations on which the buildings stand are giving way under their weight.

And Venice’s population is shrinking. Around 270,000 inhabitants live in the greater area, and just 60,000 in the old town. Forty years ago the figure was twice as high. And despite having a university with over 20,000 students, the average age is 46 years old. There are few supermarkets and small bakeries, but plenty of souvenir shops and tourist cafés. 50 percent of Venetians are employed in the tourism industry.

But in addition to mass tourism, there’s another side to Venice: the international art and film scene regularly descends on the lagoon city. The world’s oldest Biennale – which was established back in 1895 – is an absolute must-attend event for anyone in the art world. During this time the city is brimming with high-profile exhibitions and a culture-savvy audience, who reduce the shortsand-sandals quota. But even older than any art event is Venice’s craftsmanship tradition. Glassware, textiles and leather goods have all made their historic contribution to the wealth of the city and

its region; this is where one of their most popular exports, the famed elegant glass is produced, on the island of Murano, which belongs to Venice.

Several tradition-steeped clothing companies have also settled in the environs of Venice. One such example is Barena Venezia, which pays tribute to its origins by basing its collections on the clothing of the lagoon inhabitants of the past. On page 66 you can read our interview about Venetian style and quality made in Italy with the brains behind the label.

Whether original Italian or of international quality – Venice also has plenty of surprises up its sleeve when it comes to shopping, not to mention its impressive culinary offer. J’N’C’s editor-in-chief Ilona Marx and photographer Bernd Wichmann both jumped at the opportunity to return here in a professional capacity.

Venice in numbers Traditionally celebrated founding date of Venice (although no records exist to prove it): 25th March 421 Construction period of the oldest building on the Canal Grande: 13th century Number of ‘invisible’ wooden poles that the Rialto Bridge rests on: approx. 12,000 Total surface area: 414.6 km², 257.7 km² of which is water Length of the Ponte della Libertà, the bridge that connects Venice with the mainland: 3.8 km Commuters travelling into the city per day: 40,000 Number of hotels and B&Bs/guesthouses: 2500 Number of boats and gondolas out on the canals every day: at least 3000 Number of gondoliers with a licence: around 435

Read the GERMAN VERSION OF this Guide on WWW.JNC-NET.DE

Price of a private 30-minute gondola trip: 93 euros

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Resting on wooden poles driven into sandy, muddy foundations, Venice is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. There aren’t many places that it can be compared to. The lagoon city is built on more than 100 islands, connected by around 400 bridges. Approximately 175 canals serve as a road network – all the transportation takes place on the water. The main ­traffic route is the four-kilometre long Canal Grande, not to mention numerous waterways outside the historical city centre. But if you want to have a wander around, you can do it without getting your feet wet: in the 3000 alleys and lanes that complete the cityscape.

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Cool Cities / Venice — Street Styles

Cool Cities / Venice — Street Styles

Venice Street Styles

Giacomo, 30, artist and acrobat Shirt & trousers H&M Shoes & glasses from the market Earrings from India Necklace from Mexico

Anita, 31, research assistant Eleonora, 24, student

Dress Mango Jacket s.Oliver Boots Carmens Bag Roberto della Croce Watch Guess

Top H&M Skirt Mango Shoes Zara Earrings Self-made

Jared, 36, director Shirt Ascot Chang Cardigan John Smedley Trousers Incotex Shoes Alden Bag Porter Hat Lock & Co

“During the Film Festival “We come

there’s no better place than Venice

Vanessa, 23, student

from New York and

to people-watch.

Jumpsuit Promod T-shirt Tezenis Shoes Vintage Bag Carpisa Glasses Ray-Ban

find the fashion in Italy very refreshing

The city is like a film set.”

Jared

and inspiring.”

Marco, 39, sales assistant

Rachel & Leveka

Benedetta, 28, visual merchandiser

Shirt Valentino Trousers PT01 Sneakers & belt Golden Goose Watch Rolex

Daria, 29, mother

Dress from a market in Los Angeles Boots from a market in Milan Glasses Vintage Bag from Morocco Jewellery from Morocco and Egypt

Dress Isabel Marant Sandals Maje Sunglasses Dior Bag Chloé

“In Venice it’s the tourists who

Leveka, 24 & Rachel, 24, both fashion students at the FIT New York Leveka(?)

Suit Aland Sandals Aldo Bag Sam Edelman Glasses Céline Watch Michael Kors Rachel(?)

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Dress Zara Sandals from a market in Korea

in terms of fashion, especially the Japanese, Chinese, Brits and Americans.”

Marco

Stefano, 25, & Serafina, 27, both hairstylists Stefano Vest H&M customized Shorts Bershka Sneakers Nike Serafina Overall Dancing Leopard Shoes Melissa Bag from Marrakech Watch Marc Jacobs Glasses Le Specs

Anastasia, 36, economist Jacket Mango Top Opera Rock Hotpants Philipp Plein Sandals Les Tropeziennes

63 — 01/2016

are leading the way

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Cool Cities / Venices — Retail

Cool Cities / Venice — Retail

Venice Retail

Al Duca D’Aosta L’O.FT

San Marco, 4945 30122 Venice T +39 (0)41 5204079

Sestiere San Marco, 4773 31124 Venice T +39 (0)393 3359709

San Marco, 284

Opening hours

30124 Venice T +39 (0)41 5220733

Mon – Sat 9 am – 7:30 pm Sun 11 am – 5 pm

Opening hours Mon – Sat 10 am – 7:30 pm Sun 11 am – 7 pm www.alducadaosta.com

This abundance of glass experts is also the

Brands

reason why

Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Céline, Chloé, Duvetica, Gucci, Isabel Marant, Lanvin, Moncler, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Woolrich

there are so many opticians in

Brands Blake Kuwahara, Faliero Sarti, K3 Eyewear, Linda Farrow, Mes Demoiselles, Soho de Luxe, Nostra Santissima, Ottico Fabbricatore, Paola d’Arcano, Salvatore Santoro, Sartori Gold

Venice.

Visitors to Venice will find the city’s top address for fashion just a stone’s throw away from the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square). While the tourists bustle past outside the store, inside the atmosphere is hushed and dignified. On offer is a fashionably bold, exquisite selection of more than one hundred designer collections spread over three floors. The portfolio ranges from Isabel Marant, Dries Van Noten and Valentino for the ladies, to Mauro Grifoni, Stone Island and Brioni for the men. Runway looks 52

L’O.FT are flanked by ‘it’ bags. And yet Al Duca D’Aosta is a lot more down to earth that one would expect: the store dates back to the year 1902 and started out selling shirt fabrics. But when Emilio Ceccato established the shop four generations ago, he thankfully had enough business nous to have his own men’s shirt collection made from the range of materials available to him. The concept took off and his successors still have their own fashion line to this day. Which, of course, is also available from Al Duca D’Aosta’s

meanwhile eight branches.

The second branch in Venice just opened recently and it’s an architectural gem definitely worthy of a visit: the two-storey menswear shop, just a few steps from the main store, tempts customers from the outside with its elegant, black, shiny façade, while the interior is lavishly decorated and furnished with extreme attention to detail. The brains behind the interior design is none another than Rodolfo Zapala, who has also worked for Paul Smith. A particular eye-

catcher is the black-and-white textile wallpaper with a pattern of abstract structures reminiscent of mushrooms and jellyfish, and a marble floor with brass intarsia. The first storey boasts an oak wood floor, which is reached by a curved staircase. Display cases and shelves are covered in orange-coloured leather. Blinded by such a stylish setting, you’d be forgiven for forgetting to browse the actual collection.

Venice has a venerable glassblowing tradition that dates back a thousand years and the name that keeps cropping up in conversations about glassware in the city is, of course, Murano.

Here, on this series of islands linked by bridges in the Venetian Lagoon, glass has been made for more than 700 years. This abundance of glass experts is also the reason why there are so many opticians in Venice. One of them is Francesco Lincetto, who runs L’O.FT together with his wife, the bag designer Marianna Leardini.

Originally established in 1989 as a store selling only eyewear, the range has since been expanded to include womenswear and accessories. Shop premises are often small in Venice so with their good taste and remarkable business acumen the couple purchased the rear courtyard including the former warehouse located here and transformed it into a retail space – an oasis where you can browse at your leisure, disappear into spacious changing rooms and enjoy a drink in the small private room

while watching the gondoliers punt snap-happy tourists past the window. Marianna studied fashion design in Milan and went on to work for Stefanel for ten years. Following the births of their two children, she wanted her professional life to take more of a slower pace. So she had the idea of owning her own store, the special charm of which is a result of the fact that it feels like a private walk-in wardrobe.

The range includes plenty of potential favourite pieces and the choice of location is per-

fect: before Francesco Lincetto began selling his eyewear on the premises, it housed the oldest opticians in Venice. A relic of this time is the fantastic wrought iron entrance from the sixties in the style of the famous architect Carlo ­Scarpa. And as far as the glasses are concerned, a selection of unique and original oneoff designs still draws a regular international clientele, who not only regularly visit Venice for the Biennale, but also to drop by ­L’O.FT.

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Al Duca D’Aosta

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Cool Cities / Venice — Retail +

Cool Cities / Venice — Retail +

Venice Retail +

Caberlotto

This first and so far only Duvetica store in Venice only opened at the end of last June. Which is hard to believe considering the headquarters of the down jacket specialists are located just 30 kilometres away.

Customers can click on the available styles in all 24 different colours on a large interactive screen and also admire videos of them. The basic models, which have been flying off the shelves at Duvetica for years now, are seasonally updated with new colour contrasts. Brand new to the offer is a range of cashmere jumpers in the Duvetica colour spectrum.

www.caberlottopellicce.com

Negozio Olivetti A highlight that architecture fans definitely won’t want to miss! None other than the renowned Carlo Scarpa was responsible for the design of this former Olivetti store, which has now been turned into a museum-like showroom. Located in the arcades on St. Mark’s Square, the store sold typewriters and calculators from 1958. Back then it was conceived as less of a store and more of a flagship showroom, a walk-in calling card, so to speak.

Commissioned by Adriano Olivetti, Scarpa designed a futuristic interior where the focus is on exquisite materials and unusual shapes. African teak, locally sourced rosewood and coloured glass for the mosaics are the main elements. And the impressive centrepiece is an asymmetric marble staircase that looks as if it’s floating within the space.

Pied à Terre Venice’s gondoliers need to stand firm, despite not spending most of their time on solid ground, as this store’s name suggests. Having the right footwear is therefore essential for staying balanced on their unsteady gondolas. And the handmade velvet furlane slippers that can be purchased in this tiny shop on the Rialto Bridge are their first choice. With soles made of old bicycle tyres, they offer the necessary grip on the narrow boats. On the other, they ensure that the black-painted shiny wooden planks don’t get scratched. For non-gondoliers they are also a casual statement shoe and can be customised upon request.

www.negoziolivetti.it www.piedaterre-venice.com

Kirikù

www.duvetica.com

Barena Fishermen’s shirts, just like the ones that have been worn in the lagoon city for what seems like forever, and knitted fisherman’s trousers made of woollen jersey – if you’re looking for the authentic Venetian style, you’ll find it at Barena. In a refined, wood-panelled setting the collections of the local Veneto-based brand have been on sale here since 1985. They are flanked by matching classics and selected masterpieces: jackets by Barbour for example, shirts by B.D. Baggies which come with their own cotton laundry bag, as well as knitted ties, socks and cufflinks by Gallo.

Venice doesn’t really have the reputation of being a fashion mecca. The competition in Milan, Florence and Rome is far too strong for that. But there are still people here who are putting their own stamp on the city’s fashion landscape with their independent style. One of them is Cristina Nogara, the owner of Kirikù. With her keen fashion sense she buys in eye-catching clothing from French, Spanish and Italian collections for her store. At the top of the list is Forte_Forte from Vicenza, a brand that has really taken off internationally in the last few years and is also well represented at the Merci concept store in Paris.

Other labels vying for the customers’ attention here include Jamin Puech, Jérôme Dreyfuss, Rose’s Roses and Majestic. www.kiriku.it

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Duvetica

Visitors setting foot in this store, run by the third generation of furriers, will feel like they’ve journeyed back in time. Since moving into the current premises in 1970 the Caberlotto family has hardly changed any of the original décor, which explains why the shop at the foot of the Rialto Bridge is immersed in vibrant orange tones. Details like the rounded wood-framed windows, behind which the elegant furs are presented, attest to the enduring quality standards of the owner, whose business has been around since 1950.

www.barenavenezia.com 52

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Cool Cities / Venice — Retail +

Venice Retail +

Antonia Miletto Maplewood, diamonds, turquoise and gold – a very unusual mix for a piece of jewellery. Yet Antonia Miletto, the most sought-after jewellery designer in Venice, definitely doesn’t shy away from unconventional combinations, and is being rewarded with success. Which isn’t something she takes for granted. After all, you’ll have to invest 3000 euros to own a pair of earrings made of the abovementioned materials. And she doesn’t stop there – crocodile leather and ebony are also featured in the Venetian designer’s work. The advantage of these materials: although the jewellery items are extravagantly large, they’re not heavy and therefore very uncomplicated and comfortable to wear. A fact that is also appreciated by the pragmatic Americans: Antonia has another showroom in New York and commutes between the two worlds.

Claudio Gianolla Buying the famous Murano glass in Venice may seem like a simple task at first, but it has its pitfalls that tourists should be aware of. The number of shops offering original and allegedly original glassware is confusingly high. Not to mention the large numbers of garish and brightly coloured goods on display that can dazzle the senses. We recommend paying a visit to Claudio Gianolla: firstly because the vintage Murano glass vases that change hands here are all exquisitely beautiful and also certified originals. And secondly because the atmosphere in the small shop is extremely relaxed and the precious treasures from the 1920s to the 1950s, which are handpicked

by Claudio, are shown in their very best light.

www.antoniamiletto.com

San Marco, 2766 T +39 (0)41 5212652

OPVS Italy is known as the land of leather goods, and even if Florence with its renowned leather school might be one step ahead in this respect, it’s definitely worth visiting a few local designers in the lagoon city and checking out their creations. One that really stands out is the collection by Omar Pavanello and Emanuel Cestaro. By pooling their talents, the pair have succeeded in creating a timeless line, which they have also perfectly showcased in a spectacular shop. This is most certainly thanks to Emanuel, who is a qualified architect. The leather used for the collection is dyed in Tuscany before being sent to Venice where the timeless bags are created. www.declareindependence.it

Venini Even if the countless glassware shops in Venice would have you believe otherwise, there are actually only very few manufacturers of the famous Murano glass that could even begin to hold a candle to Vernini. Their store on St Mark’s Square has existed since 1922 and was opened by Paolo Venini one year after the company was founded. The list of famous designers, architects and artists who have worked with and for Venini over the past 95 years seems endless: in recent years Tadao Andō, Fabio Novembre, Matteo Thun, Atelier Oï, Studio Job, Emmanuel Babled and Harri Koskinen have all joined the esteemed circle. And although the fantastically designed glassware may exceed your budget, a visit to Venini is a must for any tourist to Venice. venini.com

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Bored by fashion and annoyed by its short lifespan, Chiarastella Cattana, the owner of this eponymous store, not only changed jobs, but also cities. She had worked in Milan for Romeo Gigli for many years before deciding to relocate to Venice and focus her attentions on a new field of work: home textiles, or tablecloths, towels, cushions and blankets to be precise. She designs the fabrics herself – to the same high standards she was accustomed to in the world of high fashion. Her products are manufactured in longestablished workshops, such as a traditional jacquard weaving mill in the Dolomites, for example. www.chiarastellacattana.com

L’Armadio di Coco The most beautiful vintage stores in Venice are managed by two young sisters. In 2012 the first branch of L’Armadio di Coco opened its doors on Campo Santa Maria Nova and the second offshoot of the second-hand institution on Campo Santa Maria del Giglio followed in the early summer of 2015. It all started with Federica Bertolino’s degree in fashion design. During her studies she realised that she wanted to become her own boss. Shortly afterwards, her sister Camilla came on board and, after opening the second store, their parents, who had previously owned a boutique in Mestre, also got involved. On Campo Santa Maria Nova shoppers will find vintage pieces from the sixties to the nineties, all at affordable prices, while premier-league fashion rules the roost in the new shop with big names like Dior, Versace, Fendi and Chanel.

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Chiarastella Cattana

larmadiodicoco.it 61

Cool Cities / Venice — Service

Cool Cities / Venice — Service

Venice Service

Ca’Sagredo Hotel Campo Santa Sofia 4198/99 30121 Venice T +39 (0)41 2413111 www.casagredohotel.com

Hilton Molino Stucky Venice Giudecca, 810 30133 Venice T +39 (0)41 2723311 www.placeshilton.com

Another spectacular location, this time with a completely different background: the Hilton Molino Stucky Venice is housed in the city’s most beautiful industrial building, a mill from the late 19th century, which is regarded as one of the landmarks of Italy’s industrial architecture.

It was built on Giudecca, Venice’s largest island. Until the mid-20th century flour was milled there for the locally made pasta products. In June 2007 it was turned into a five-star luxury hotel with

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379 rooms and suites, which, covering an area of 600 m² has the city’s second biggest spa and wellness centre and the only rooftop swimming pool in Venice, 35 metres above sea level. From the hotel’s own jetty, guests are chauffeured by shuttle boat to St. Mark’s Square, which is just a five-minute crossing away, and the vaporetti (water buses and taxis) stop just a short walk from the hotel. Seven restaurants and bars, including the Skyline Rooftop Bar with rooftop terrace

and panoramic views of the city, belong to the complex, which also includes Venice’s biggest congress centre with 15 conference rooms and a ballroom for up to 1000 guests. Despite these huge dimensions, the Hilton offers a highly professional and personal service – the perfectly trained staff take care of the guests’ wellbeing very attentively, making a stay here extremely enjoyable, for package and individual travellers alike.

There’s a hotel on every corner in Venice and the tourist mecca also has an abundance of posh places to stay, but sleeping in a palace that was once home to one of the most influential Venetian families is a very special experience. Ca’Sagredo, ­sitting majestically on the Canal Grande, directly opposite the ­Rialto ­Market, was built in the 15th century and thanks to the fact it’s a listed building it still has the charm of a noble family residence. Even the stairway with

its frescoes, made in 1732 especially for Count Girardo Sagredo, will take your breath away. It leads to the first floor, on which a few of the most spectacular suites and additional sumptuously decorated halls can be found. In total, Ca’Sagredo has 42 rooms, of which eleven are suites, nine are junior suites and 22 are double rooms, all boasting décor that attests to the family’s wealth and the Venetian artistry in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Most of the rooms look out over

the Canal Grande and some even have their own little terraces.

For a befitting evening dinner the hotel’s own Alcova Restaurant comes highly recommended.

Here diners can enjoy fantastic panoramic views from the terrace and creatively interpreted Venetian cuisine served by chef Josef Klostermaier, along with local wines. The roof of the building also has an outdoor area and, starting in the afternoon, offers the perfect setting for a highly romantic sundowner.

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Ca’Sagredo

Hilton Molino Stucky Venice

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Cool Cities / Venice — Service

Antiche Carampane

Osteria Bancogiro Cantina Do Spade Cantina Do Spade is one of the ten oldest restaurants in the city. It was mentioned as early as 1488 in the annals of the Republic of Venice and even became the namesake of the street and the bridge it is located on. The trattoria has survived a number of changes in management over the past few centuries, without sacrificing any of its popularity.

Today the the traditional, rusticstyle Cantina is run by brother and sister team Francesco and Giovanna Munarini. In addition

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to cicchetti, the Venetian answer to Spanish tapas, which await hungry diners here at all times of the day and night, there is also an à la carte menu featuring dishes such as stockfish, tuna and octopus, each accompanied by polenta. The delicious dark spaghetti with king prawns and tomato sauce is particularly delicious, served by the Munarinis with wines from Veneto, Friaul and Trentino. cantinadospade.com

The location of Osteria Bancogiro right on the Canal Grande is not only especially picturesque, but also steeped in history. The bank has disappeared – but the name has remained. For almost 16 years it has been home to a restaurant and since 2008 the Osteria Bancogiro has been managed by Davide Vianello, Gianluca Guadagni and Mauro Bettrone.

Their idea of contemporary gastronomy is to give traditional Venetian dishes a modern twist and South American or Asian influences. As the Rialto Market is just a few steps away, all

of the ingredients that make their way onto the plates here are extra fresh. Just one of the many amuse-gueules behind the counter and a real culinary highlight is the Baccalà Mantecato, a stockfish mousse on squid-ink polenta. When the canal’s water rises and the temperatures start to drop, diners can move to the first floor where a very cosy fireplace room with exposed brick walls awaits. www.osteriabancogiro.it

Hidden in the warren of alleys behind the Rialto Market is a trattoria that is still regarded as a veritable insider tip and also as one of the best in the city. This is the opinion of friends of the house who should know, after all: the list of famous diners includes star chef Alain Ducasse, architect Tadao Andō, director Takeshi Kitano and footballer Messi. Despite these celebrity testimonials, the atmosphere at Antiche Carampane is relaxed: the few tables seat only around 35 diners, ensuring a cosy, intimate atmosphere. Terrazzo floors, a collection of mirrors

and starched white tablecloths contribute to the authentic Venetian cosiness. The trattoria has been family owned for 34 years. Still helped by his mother, Francesco Agopyan has been at the helm for twelve years now.

The culinary focus is on fish and seafood, both of which are extra fresh thanks to the proximity of the fish sellers on the Rialto Market. Excellent dishes are accompanied by a selection of 350 wines from the Veneto and Friaul regions, including biodynamically grown wines.

Vino Vero The Spritz, the cocktail of white wine, Aperol and soda water that is omnipresent in Venice and has become an alcoholic symbol of the city’s mass tourism, is absolutely taboo in this pretty bar which opened in 2014 on Fondamenta della Misericordia. Brothers Massimiliano and ­Matteo Bartoli prefer to concentrate on a small but exquisite selection of international wines.

Their high quality standards stem from the fact that for quite some time now Matteo has owned his own vineyard in Tuscany, where he makes sulphite-free wine.

The fine wines are accompanied by a choice of very delicious, Spanish-inspired montaditos, tapas-sized sandwiches.

Fondamenta Misericordia, 2497 T +39 041 275 0044

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Cool Cities / Venice — Service

Venice Service

www.antichecarampane.com

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From the Piazzale Roma, a taxi takes us out of the city. Barena’s headquarters are located in Mirano, around 25 km from Venice. Francesca Zara gives us a very warm welcome on the stairs, which lead to a large, hall-like production atelier.

This is where the vivacious Francesca Zara and the slightly more reserved Massimo Pigozzo develop the Barena collection and also where the tailors and sample makers are hard at work. The production facilities are just a stone’s throw away.

Barena Venezia Founded in 1961 by Sandro Zara, Barena Venezia offers simple, deconstructed collections, which, despite their apparent simplicity, are certainly not lacking in character. All garments are made exclusively at the company’s own production facility in Mirano near Venice. The company is still profiting from its own history: before Sandro Zara launched the Barena collection, he traded in textiles and later made kilts and capes. So Barena not only guarantees a particularly high level of finishing, but the textiles are often inspired by traditional materials and many of the collection pieces are reinterpretations of regional garments.

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Francesca and Massimo see this proximity of patternmaking and production as a big luxury. Turning an idea into reality, from the tailoring and cutting down to the production of the prototype, can happen within the space of a day here. Francesca’s father Sandro Zara, who got into the fashion business via the fabric trade, began producing kilts and capes a quarter of a century ago. Today the Barena men’s and ladies’ collection is the main source of revenue for the family-run business.

Massimo, what’s it like designing the collection for a family company with its very own, special tradition?

Massimo Pigozzo: When I first started developing the Barena

Cool Cities / Venice talks – Francesca Zara & Massimo Pigozzo, Barena Venezia

Francesca Zara and Massimo Pigozzo with Ilona Marx

collection our approach was more playful. Barena is about the people who used to live and work in the area around Venice – we have done a lot of research on that. Veneto has always specialised in function-specific materials. Hunting and fishing were important sources of income.

Accordingly, the clothing style was influenced by the functional clothing worn for these activities and the traditional materials used to make them. Our collection is still very much influenced by the style of those days. Nothing inspires us more than life by the sea and in the lagoon.

When did you start working at Barena Venezia?

Massimo: I have been the creative director of the Barena menswear line for over 20 years.

In 1994 Sandro Zara and I started with our joint fashion experiment here in Mirano and first entered the Japanese market. Back then, people in Japan were much more interested than people here in Italy in the traditional materials that we came across during our research. Today Barena offers complete outfits, and the style no longer has as much of a rural character. However, the type of

research has stayed the same, but we experiment a lot with fabrics. This very old book here, for example, (Massimo Pigozzo reaches over for a heavy book), which shows pictures of people working in the lagoon, is still a source of inspiration for me.

How would you characterise the collection?

Massimo: We only work with natural materials, with wool, cotton, linen. I find it difficult to characterise the collection any more than that: it’s not sporty, not classic, not casual – it’s a mix of all of them! But, in my opinion, a very balanced mix. We don’t orientate ourselves on trends.

For example, quite a few years ago we started designing jersey blazers, at a time when there weren’t even any suitable materials for this kind of garment!

So we rediscovered the jersey blazer; today it can be found in all our collections.

Francesca Zara: We have a material archive of old fabrics.

My father set it up. We like to browse through that. It always gives us new ideas.

Francesca, you were born into the Zara family, which has a his-

tory of textiles. Can you briefly outline Barena’s history?

Francesca: In 1961 my father began selling fabrics. Then he started developing his own collection, which was just based on one single style: the kilt. And he had a lot of success with it. Later on more models were added, which were all based on the principle of the cape. When my father met Massimo, the idea for a complete collection was born – and that was also the birthing hour of Barena. My father still works today, he has his own line, and he’s involved in different projects. He has written a book about fabrics, for example.

It’s turned out really well, and is meanwhile used by all schools in Italy to teach basic knowledge of textiles.

Barena has become increasingly popular over the last few years.

Massimo: Yes, that’s true.

However, we haven’t edged our way onto the market – the market has developed in our direction. Our approach has always stayed the same.

Francesca: We have a very simple credo: every item in the Barena collection can be washed in the washing machine. Dry cleaning is not our thing. That doesn’t even necessarily have anything to do with the look, so it’s not just about the wearing comfort or appearance of a garment, but much more about general comfort and a garment being easy to care for.

So you can also wash your woollen fabrics?

Massimo: Of course! In the past, people used to wash all of their clothes themselves. Often wool fabrics too. Even in summer people here wore black woollen suits!

Francesca: Another unique feature of the Barena collection is the fact that we always start with the materials when developing new items. First we search for interesting materials, then we create the corresponding designs. We never know what will come out in the end.

Massimo: Yes, and we still experiment a lot. We wash our fabrics in seawater or boil them.

This often results in new effects.

I made this jacket here (­Massimo Pigozzo holds up a jacket), for example, 15 years ago, when unfinished hems weren’t even in fashion.

Are models carried over from previous seasons?

Francesca: For the men, yes, not so much for the ladies. The men really appreciate it. If something sits well, then you’re more than happy to buy it again in a different material. The slightly more mature, cultivated customer is often delighted when he has found a cut that fits well. But we also have a younger clientele.

These customers would never wear suit jackets, which perhaps might be too stiff for them. But as our blazers feel like cardigans, a younger clientele is now also buying Barena.

When was the ladies’ collection added?

Francesca: In 2010 we made

our first attempt at a ladies’ collection. Five seasons ago we had achieved what we wanted to achieve. We use 70 percent of the materials both in the men’s as well as in the womenswear, the remaining 30 percent are then either very specifically male or very specifically female.

What are the difficulties involved in the development of a line like Barena?

Massimo: Well, we are represented in a lot of different countries, and the Japanese taste, for example, differs greatly from, let’s say, the Russian one.

Covering all these bases in one collection is definitely a challenge!

Francesca: And we work very closely with our clients, we do everything to do with the collection ourselves. We can even be found selling at the tradeshows.

Massimo: When it comes to the creative side of things and new inspiration, I work a lot with memories. I have a good memory, which helps me to recall materials and tailoring from my childhood.

Did you want to be a fashion designer when you were a child?

Massimo: I have 14 siblings; eight brothers and six sisters. I can still remember my mother mending our clothes. After all, 50 years ago, it wasn’t easy getting your hands on good clothing, never mind the cost. So the items were patched and altered. I used to help her from a very young age and I was really good at it. I think that has influenced my develop-

ment and my relationship with clothing. It aroused my curiosity.

I would take things apart, could see the individual pieces and figure out the tailoring. So I’m certainly an autodidact.

Francesca: Massimo’s original training was more technical, far removed from fashion, but he has a very good understanding of the technical aspects of materials and cuts.

Massimo: And perhaps due to my lack of training, I have developed a ‘why not?’ attitude, which allows me to try out a lot of things that other people might turn down or proclaim impossible for exactly that reason.

For a long time you have been true pioneers and are now attracting a lot more attention with Barena than you used to. Does this make you happy?

Francesca: We are happy when all the team is happy, when a customer is enjoying wearing one of our pieces, when working together is a pleasure and when every day we can find a nice reason to be doing this job that we feel so passionate about.

Massimo: We want to combine good work with a good lifestyle. This type of family-run company is perfect for us. We produce everything here on site, which is great. We can see what we are producing and take the time to have a coffee. That’s quality of life.

Thank you very much for your time and the interesting chat.

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Cool Cities / Venice talks – Francesca Zara & Massimo Pigozzo, Barena Venezia

venice Talks Francesca Zara & Massimo Pigozzo

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We are warmly greeted to FGF Industry’s headquarters by Lila the 16-year-old cocker spaniel, belonging to Enzo Fusco’s daughter Federica. We are here to meet the company head, yet it’s blatantly clear to see: FGF Industry is a family company. In addition to Federica Fusco who takes care of communications and marketing, her husband Giuseppe D’Amore is also on board. Not forgetting: the matriarch of the Fusco household Silvana Sattanino, Enzo’s wife and Federica’s mother, who is responsible for the admin side of things.

Enzo Fusco Born in Turin in 1946 Enzo Fusco soon recognised that his destiny lay not in football as originally assumed, but instead in the world of fashion. In 1971 he married Silvana Sattanino and, after the birth of their daughter Federica, started a kidswear business with her. He soon began working with renowned labels like Kenzo, Versace and Armani and founded the design centre Centro Stile in the eighties. The family business, FGF Industry S.p.A., was founded by Enzo Fusco in 1998 together with his wife. Later his daughter and son-inlaw joined the business. In 2001 he made a foray into the world of haute couture, when he worked as a stylist for Lancetti. The same year he helped Blauer reach new levels of success, not only by changing the name to Blauer USA, but also by transforming functional clothing into fashion items.

A label bearing his own name – Design by Enzo Fusco – and lastly the acquisition of C.P. Company in 2010, which was subsequently sold in 2015.

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Enzo Fusco, who, with 40 years of industry experience under his belt, could be described as an old hand when it comes to Italian sports and casual wear, appears understated and modest. Yet he is proud of his brands; that much is immediately apparent. After the sale of C.P. Company, they are now focusing, amongst others, on the heritage brand Blauer USA. We met the brains behind FGF Industry at the company headquarters close to Padua, and spoke to him about Blauer’s DNA and the enduring fascination for military-inspired clothing.

At the tender age of 14 you began working as a sales assistant. How did you develop the pronounced flair for fashion that you need as a brand owner?

I always watched people on the street and noticed early on when a trend was emerging and when another was on the way out. I actually started out working as a sales assistant before moving on to window dressing, and later I

Cool Cities / Venice talks – Enzo Fusco, FGF Industry FGF Industry S.p.A. The Italian company is the producer as well as the worldwide distributor of licences as well as own brands, including Design

by Enzo Fusco, BPD Be Proud of This Dress, Blauer USA. The headquarters, including management offices, the sales department and showrooms are located in Montegalda, strategically placed between Padua and Vicenza.

They also work together with two external logistics companies, who are responsible for distribution, as well as several production companies.

Enzo Fusco at the Blauer headquarters

designed my own textiles – that’s how I gained my first experience in fashion. After a while I began coating materials to give them technical properties.

You were born in Turin in the Piedmont region and are now at home in Veneto. Do you think that the mentality of the two Italian regions has an impact on your work?

When we moved to the Veneto region 30 years ago, there was a fantastic infrastructure here for the production of sports and casualwear. That influenced me a lot. But perhaps I have contributed a little of the elegance of my native region.

What was your motivation for selling C.P. Company, a company that you invested so much time and energy into?

It was simply the right step at the right time. When I acquired the C.P. Company license many years ago, the brand was popular amongst customers aged 50 and over. Now it is meeting the most

modern market demands and the younger generation is also taking an interest. So from that perspective, my work is done and I can hand the sceptre on to someone else with a good conscience.

Now, you want to concentrate on Blauer USA, a label that has been synonymous with functional, high-quality clothing since the 1930s. Is there any particular reason for this?

Blauer really deserves to have more of our time as a brand. I think we should start drawing attention to this traditional brand on the international markets.

You discovered Blauer yourself many years ago in the USA and brought it to Europe. Do you still remember that time well?

Yes, I actually remember it very vividly. In the fashion world no one had ever heard of the brand, which embodied such a strong sense of authenticity. The Austrian Louis Blauer who founded the label in Boston, initially supplied

certain government institutions, including the Navy, the U.S. Army and security guards for the White House. This is a genuine brand with a genuine history; that fascinated and inspired me right from the start. That’s why I wasted no time in asking about the license.

The potential was clear to see.

Is that when you developed your passion for uniforms?

No, that was already there. In fact uniforms and their perfected detailing had already fascinated me as a child. The passion remained and also later on, when I was already working, I kept collecting second-hand uniforms, whose design concentrates on the absolute essentials, has always been a source of inspiration to me. From that perspective, my commitment to Blauer was simply meant to be.

What makes Blauer different from other outdoor brands?

The biggest plus here is the authenticity and the purity of intention that comes with it.

Typically American and historically evolved. And on top of that Blauer has a precise DNA. For me it embodies the original notion of the American Dream.

Do you think that the fascination for military-inspired clothing is particularly pronounced at present?

Military-style clothing has always had a certain charm and has had a place in fashion throughout the decades. It always depends on how these particular elements are interpreted, which colours or cuts to use. Where Blauer is concerned, I put the emphasis on an urban note, a kind of ‘urban military’ feel.

Blauer has a lot of classics in its portfolio. How important are the high fashion aspects?

Our strengths lie in the unique classics, and the many models that demonstrate our continuity and core expertise. Nevertheless, it is still important to keep an eye on current trends. After all, we don’t want to work com-

pletely unconnected from the market.

Technical innovations are on the rise in the textile sector as well.

Is that also a topic at Blauer?

I would even go so far as to say that this is one of the prerequisites of a well-functioning Blauer collection. Research and innovation in the textile industry are more important than ever. Because we always have an eye on functionality as our main focus, new materials and qualities are, of course, highly relevant to us.

Can you sum up the unique elements of Blauer’s DNA? Of course: functionality, quality, price and style!

The USA, Japan, Korea, the UK and China are going to be at the focus of your international distribution. What differentiates the American market from the European or Asian ones?

Basically, with Blauer we truly have some special products in our portfolio. Short-lived fashion

trends are of no interest to us, we prefer more classic basics, which best sum up what we want to express. A comfortable feel and a high level of functionality are valued by customers all over the world.

Will you be tackling any other interesting projects in the near future?

First and foremost, we will be concentrating on the perfect positioning of our brands Blauer, BPD, Prince Tees and Ten C on the existing markets. And then preparing ourselves for the global market.

You’ve been working in the fashion business for 40 years. What would you like to achieve in the next decade?

I’d like to keep on doing what I enjoy. I don’t think in terms of such long time spans anyway, just three years ahead at the most.

Thank you very much for talking to us.

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Cool Cities / Venice talks – Enzo Fusco, FGF Industry

Venice Talks Enzo Fusco

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Infinity — G-Lab

By U

Just Cavalli

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Photo: Cathrin Beck

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Must Buys

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Richard Chai

3.1 Phillip Lim

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City Vest — Woolrich Katie EARY Barbour

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Dries Van Noten

Diesel

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Ture — Stutterheim Calvin Klein Céline

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Jil Sander

Edun

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Thermo+ — Replay

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Neil Barrett

Officine Generale Mattiussi

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Four Elements

J’N’C S t y li n g

Four Elements

THEY INSPIRE FASHION. Jeremy Somers Creative Director and Designer Circleline

Rosa Pujol Creative Manager Gratacos Riccardo Bruni Textile Designer Lyria

Wendy Richard Style Manager Mégisserie Richard

Federica Martini Masoni Style Office Chief Masoni Industria Conciaria

16-18 Feb. 2016 premierevision.com © Paolo Verzone

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Blouse Antonia Goy Bag Lapàporter Skirt Stine Goya Shoes Filling Pieces

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Takao Ozaki Creative Director A-Girl’s

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Shirt Levi’s Bag Desiderius Jeans Kings of Indigo Shoes Ten Points

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Fisherman’s Friend At a cosy country inn just outside Bologna we have arranged to meet Andrea Canè to talk to him about Woolrich, the brand that he has built up throughout Europe over the

“When I started out in the eighties the situation was exactly the same

63 — 01/2016

as it was five years ago.”

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Brands & Brains – Andrea Canè, Woolrich, Bologna

Andrea Canè, Woolrich

Andrea Canè Andrea Canè in the meeting room of the WP Lavori headquarters

last few decades from his headquarters in Northern Italy, leading it safely through economic crises to steady growth.

Andrea appears fresh, dynamic and in good spirits. Even after returning from a trip to New York and Tokyo, it seems like jetlag isn’t an issue for him. He recommends the tagliatelle alla bolognese, ordering a large salad for himself.

When we come onto the topic of Germany, he talks enthusiastically about the Woolrich store in Munich – their most successful store worldwide. And about Tokyo, the city that, after New York, offers the best shopping opportunities in the world. After enjoying our meal we drive to the WP Lavori in Corso headquarters, the company behind the Woolrich name – in a brand new VW. All the company cars come from Wolfsburg, explains Andrea Canè, with a twinkle in his eye. Despite all the scandals, he still swears by German quality workmanship. When he’s not working, however, he drives a Fiat 500 – in the city – and a Range Rover when he takes off to his house in the country. Throughout the interview, Andrea comes across as extremely lively and passionate, making him appear refreshingly young. It’s hard to believe that the 53-year-old has already been working as creative director at WP Lavori in Corso for three decades.

The continual success seems to spur him on.

­ orso, stepped into my life, truly putting me in touch with C fashion. Although the word fashion isn’t quite right. We were always on the lookout for products with performance qualities that had certain functions. High school was also an important motivation for me, of course. That’s when young people decide what they want to wear and who they want to be. Before high school, at least in my day, the family still had a major influence. As children and teenagers we didn’t have much say in the matter. Nowadays I see my 11-year-old son making all these decisions by himself. That would have been unheard of before. Thanks to a few school exchanges I was lucky enough to get the chance to spend a few months in the USA and the UK. In those days the preppy look was big at all the high schools. That had a big influence on me.

Andrea, you have just returned from New York and Japan.

In addition to fashion, travelling is a big passion of yours, and is also an important part of your life, just as you wished it would be when you were young. Does the way you travel today differ from the way you imagined you would travel back then?

Yes, of course. When I was younger I wanted to discover the world; these days I’m usually scouting the fashion industry and meeting business partners – that’s a completely different approach. Business meetings dominate my day when I’m travelling. Even the scouting and buying have been taking more of a backseat these days. But I still love to travel. I enjoy trying out different foods and I like meeting new people. I get to do all that because of my job.

Was it your first stay in the USA that ignited your lifelong passion for the American way of life?

Yes, most definitely! That and my mentor. Back then at WP Lavori in Corso there were three important positions: the person responsible for sales, the person responsible for the product range and the Calori family, who were on board as investors. Giancarlo Cei, the product specialist, was my mentor and introduced me to the American lifestyle – Americana. What we describe as casualwear these days has its roots back in the sixties and seventies in the USA. The main influences came from hunting and fishing, from military and workwear. That is the matrix that defines the casual industry to this day.

Do you remember the moment when fashion became part of your life? The moment when you stopped simply wearing clothes but began seeing them as a form of expression?

My father’s generation was defined by the classic dandy look, which most certainly influenced me. Then when I was 16, Giancarlo Cei, one of the founders of WP Lavori in

Initially you studied medicine.

Yes, my father is a doctor, my brother too, and there were other doctors in the family. So that’s what I did initially until I realised that it wasn’t my path and that I needed to live my own life. So I stopped studying and began working.

This trend towards workwear and military-inspired styles has been noticeable for quite a few years. Why is it still so popular?

This year I will be 54, and I’ve seen many trends come and go. When I started out in the eighties the situation was exactly the same as it was five years ago. Brands would stick to heritage products to be on the safe side. When people don’t have much money to spend, they tend to buy things

WP Lavori in Corso WP Lavori in Corso, with its headquarters in Bologna in Italy, is a licence holder and distributor of international fashion brands.

The company owns brands like Woolrich, John Rich & Bros., Penn-Rich, Barbour, Blundstone and Palladium.

Owner and president is the co-founder of WP Lavori in Corso, Cristina Calori.

WP Lavori has 3000 clients and 31 own stores worldwide: 12 WP stores, 17 Woolrich stores and two Barbour stores.

60% of their turnover is generated in Italy and 40% abroad. The aim, however, is to raise the foreign turnover share to 60% over the next three years. Following Italy, Germany is the most important market. Thanks to strong partnerships with wholesalers and increased retail activities (with the fourth Woolrich store in Germany opening in Berlin in November 2015), the turnover for 2015 in Germany and Austria has risen to almost 20 million.

In 2016 further store openings are planned in Germany, as well as in Rome and Milan and northern Europe.

Other cities like Chicago and Paris have also been chosen as future locations.

In the long term, by 2020, the company plans to create a global distribution network consisting of 88 stores in Europe, the USA, Canada and Asia.

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Brands & Brains – Andrea Canè, Woolrich, Bologna

Interview Ilona Marx photos Bernd Wichmann

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Brands & Brains – Andrea Canè, Woolrich, Bologna

Brands & Brains – Andrea Canè, Woolrich, Bologna

products hanging there, you simply have to offer them something new.” Now, after ten years of the heritage trend, people are looking forward to something new.

From Woolrich and Barbour to Blundstone and Palladium – you develop and distribute many different brands. How do you anticipate new trends and where do you get your inspiration from?

What inspires me is people’s passion. For example, I try to put myself in the shoes of a Woolrich customer, examine their hobbies, their lifestyle, their passions. That’s why I’m currently really interested in fishing. I think ‘fishing’ will be a growing trend in the coming years, increasingly influencing outdoor fashion. But I also find all these special ancient Japanese meditation techniques derived from Zen Buddhism very inspiring. In the broadest sense they are comparable to yoga.

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Born into a family of doctors in Bologna in 1962, Andrea Canè seemed destined for the same path.

But in the seventh year of his medical studies he realised that his passion lay in travelling and fashion.

A few months later, he joined the company that had been newly founded

by Giuseppe Calori and his daughter Cristina, WP Lavori in Corso, as creative director.

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that, in their opinion, will be valid for years to come, socalled classics.

And what’s the situation today?

In the long term, watching how companies work on their ‘iconic products’, we are seeing shifts taking place. The heritage trend is being replaced by a trend for innovations – just like at the beginning of the nineties. At present there is a lot of activewear in the fashion world, lots of new technical materials. The design is not the decisive factor: a short jacket is, and remains, a short jacket. The real changes are taking place in terms of materials instead. ‘Clean, but performing’ is the motto of the day if you ask me. Looking at recent years, not from a fashion point of view, but from a societal perspective, you can’t get past the cycling and running trends that have changed people’s lifestyles so drastically. These communities have contributed their styles to the world of fashion.

Yes, it’s a really global trend. Wherever you travel, between San Francisco and São Paulo, you will see people wearing running gear, even when they aren’t actually doing any sporting activities.

Exactly, sportswear and streetwear are overlapping. Take for example Rapha, a bicycling brand from the UK. Rapha is currently making the best-looking cycling collection because it has approached the topic laterally. They’ve helped themselves to the colours and the cuts from the fashion world and, in combination with high-tech materials, have created a highly aesthetic line. The layering trend also comes from the sports world by the way, in its most extreme expression, from mountain climbing, where you need the right kind of clothing from 0 to 3000 metres above sea level. Then there are other influences: the weather, which is becoming increasingly difficult to forecast, extreme weather conditions for which everyone wants to be equipped. These kinds of things also play a role. But to get back to the topic of heritage and innovation, I think that heritage brands like Woolrich need to open themselves up more in the direction of performance. We started introducing water-repellent materials around three years ago.

A long time ago, an old shopkeeper said something which has really stayed with me: “You can read a whole bunch of marketing books to find out how the market is developing.

But at the end of the day, all you need to do is look into your customers’ wardrobes. If there are already five very similar

The southern European market is currently in crisis mode. Despite this, Woolrich is registering steady increases in turnover. How have you managed that?

In Italy there are several clients who sell very well, and some that are having major problems. We want to clean up our distribution, reduce the number of clients. Our aim is to have fewer clients, but better positioned ones. In the future we want to offer them even more price savings to enable them to keep up with the competition. In Spain we have a

“The heritage trend is being replaced by a trend For innovations” Andrea Canè

very motivated agent who also does our PR there. Together we are able to position the product advantageously. So we’re very happy with Spain. Naturally it’s not comparable to Germany – for us Germany is the strongest market after Italy. But we also have our eye on other markets, like the USA for example. The level of brand awareness when it comes to Woolrich is quite high, but there is still a lot of work to do in terms of distribution. We just opened our own store in Boston and we are very well represented in the larger department stores with shop-in-shops.

In April 2014 you open the Woolrich store in New York as your first Woolrich store in the USA. Was that a big moment for you as an admirer of all things American?

Yes, absolutely. A dream came true! The Woolrich store is located in SoHo. I’ve been shopping in that district since the eighties, and now suddenly we have a Woolrich store there!

We are planning to open a second one uptown in 2017. By the way the namesake company, Woolrich U.S.A., are responsible for distribution in the US themselves. We provide them with the product and the design.

As you say, Germany is such a strong market for you: what strategy are you following there?

We want to open more own shops, but also outlet stores.

The outlet principle has two important functions: on the one hand it offers us the opportunity to sell surplus wares.

On the other, we have the opportunity to win over future consumers. Young people, for example, who can’t afford the store prices so go shopping at the outlet store. That’s been shown to work brilliantly by Prada and Moncler – they have a great turnover with their outlet stores!

Yes, in the old days the labels had more affordable secondary lines, but to attract the younger buyer, nowadays it’s the outlets.

And of course the internet also plays a large role. A wise man once said: “The perfect company generates 30% of its turnover from its own retail, 30% from wholesale and 30% from online stores.” For a company like ours, coming from a wholesale background, this is more difficult: our current aim is to earn 20% with our own retail, +10% online and 70% in wholesale turnover. We finance ourselves, which is one thing we wouldn’t like to change in times like these, and that’s why we can only take things step by step, which means opening three or four stores annually.

Is your ‘Arctic Parka’ still the bestseller?

Yes, especially amongst the men. It’s also popular with women, but there are a lot of other products that sell well in womenswear. For example the ‘Military Eskimo’, a luxurious parka with lots of fur that sold out immediately last season. This winter that will definitely be a bestseller.

Nevertheless, it’s important to never flood the market with your own products. This strategy helps us to preserve our brand’s image.

Do you think the outdoor market will continue to grow?

No, I think it is more a crowding-out situation. Whenever we increase our turnover, it takes place at the cost of other brands that aren’t being bought. The mass market is dominated by the vertical big names, where outdoor jackets cost between 75 and 90 US dollars at retail.

Is it difficult competing with the online shops with their non-stop reductions?

No, luckily that really isn’t a problem for us. Our clients prefer to keep Woolrich classics in stock for next year’s season, rather than drastically reducing the price.

After everything that you’ve achieved: what is important for the future? What motivates you?

Because I spend a lot of time with my colleagues, a good team is extremely important to me. And I’d like to pass my passion and expertise onto the next generation. Sometimes you get the impression that youngsters these days would like to earn lots of money, but that they don’t really appreciate the history behind a label like Woolrich – that they see the history more as a mere marketing instrument.

But personally I still sense a great fascination for the origins of the Woolrich brand, even after all these years, and this fascination and passion is something I would like to pass on to others.

Thank you for talking to us.

Woolrich In 1830 the English immigrant John Rich founded a wool mill in Pennsylvania at the young age of 25.

By 1845 he had opened a second one, which, to this day, is part of the company complex that makes up Woolrich Inc. in the USA. Originally working exclusively as a textile producer, Woolrich expanded its product range in the mid19th century to include working jackets and functional outdoor clothing.

This heritage is palpable in the collections to this day.

In 1984 WP Lavori in Corso acquired the distribution for Italy and in 1998 the European and Asian license for Woolrich. Since spring/ summer 2015 the partnership between WP Lavori in Corso and Woolrich, Inc. with the Executive Vice President Joshua W. Rich has been renegotiated: since then, WP Lavori in Corso has been responsible for the European, Japanese and Korean markets while Woolrich, Inc. serves the USA and Canada.

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Andrea Canè

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What is Your Vision?

Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, a Milanese in Munich who grew up bilingual, has devoted his whole life to fashion. Even as a child, growing up a part of his family’s business, he was let in on the secrets of the industry and is familiar with every step of the long production chain, from the fibres to the finished product. Today, with his agency D-tails he represents

a large number of noteworthy Italian brands in German-speaking countries and owns the fashion store Mood Style Council in Munich’s trendy Glockenbach neighbourhood. His message to retailers is clear and direct: more personality, an authentic brand portfolio and fast fashion are the way forward.

Mr Coppolecchia-Reinartz, what’s it like living as an ­Italian in Munich, which is affectionately known as the most northern city of Italy?

I’ve been living here for around 15 years, I really feel at home and, you might laugh, but I meanwhile actually see more fashionably dressed people here than in Italy!

to know your clientele. What kind of people are they, how do they tick and what do they want?

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Seriously?!

Yes, yes! In general, a lot has changed in Germany over the last few years. In terms of food, too: a kilo of pork for two euros? Those times are over, thankfully. People are more interested in lifestyle, the finer things in life, and above all they have become more daring with fashion. More and more often they are being bold enough to put together really individual looks. Unfortunately most German retailers are still extremely cautious and don’t explore new brands enough. And if they do, they only give them one season to prove themselves. I’m constantly observing this from my perspective as an agency owner and I think it’s a real shame.

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Brands & Brains — Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, D-Tails, Munich

D -Ta i l s

After a number of years in the business Patrick CoppolecchiaReinartz has witnessed the rise and fall of many a brand.

What do you advise?

You just have to have cool items in your store, things that not every other retailer is stocking. In the past you could show the German customer a complete outfit and they’d buy it. Now people want to mix and match: highly-priced garments with low-price items or classic basics with fashionable trend pieces. I always like to ask retailers: what is your vision? Is it perhaps a flash car, an expensive watch?

Surely not! The times when you would get really rich with your own store are probably already over anyway. And once people have understood this, the fun factor comes back. Get

So you mean being present in the store in order to be close to the customers?

That’s the key! If you prefer to be off playing golf somewhere or sitting around in your office all day, you won’t find out what’s going on. You can’t forget the human, personal side of things if you want your store to do well. Talking to the customers and giving them well-founded, honest advice.

If retailers aren’t able to offer that and end up in the red, they like to blame the internet. But that’s nonsense. It’s not rare for online shops to have over 60 percent returns; each one costs the company around twelve euros. And that’s supposed to be worth it? So why has Amazon recently opened a shop in New York? Just so people can collect their parcels?

I’m not buying that. And just look at the newsletters of the big online stores: sale, sale, sale! If you want to counter them and prefer to focus on unique styles in your own shop, that you may be the only one stocking in your area, then that’s much more likely to entice the customers. That doesn’t work, of course, if you want to copy Zalando and Co. My advice: first focus on your classic pre-orders so you have a few good styles in your store – typical basics are also good – and then you have to regularly introduce new styles.

Current trends often crystallize from these at very short notice. And then the only answer can be fast fashion.

Quickly produced goods from low-wage countries?

No, far from it! Apart from the fact that I’m talking about fast fashion in small quantities, I’d be stupid if I reordered goods that are thrown together somewhere in China and

Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz Patrick CoppolecchiaReinartz established the agency D-tails in Munich in 2000, where he mainly represents Italian fashion and accessories brands in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, including Globe-Trotter, Alpha Studios, Borrelli, Spektre and many more.

Before that, as managing director, he successfully positioned luxury label Etro from Milan on the European market and launched brands like Les Copains and Woolrich in Germany.

His Munich-based fashion store Mood Style Council at Reichenbachstrasse 34 is his own personal trend barometer where he concentrates on a successful mix of high-quality brands and selective fast fashion that he has recognised as having great potential in terms of new trends – all garments which, from the fabric to the finished product, bear the quality seal ‘Made in Italy’. www.d-tails.de

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Brands & Brains — Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, D-Tails, Munich

Interview Gerlind Hector photos Sorin Morar

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Brands & Brains — Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, D-Tails, Munich

are of a very low quality. I prefer to concentrate on geographical proximity and good communication, which, for me personally, works best in Italy. Fast fashion is also produced there, under good working conditions and with more care.

What is it that keeps the Italians one step ahead of the Germans in terms of fashion?

Perhaps their passion? I also know a lot of great German examples, like Style & Select in Bochum and Tutto in Frankfurt, which are family-run companies. But lots of German retailers seem to be fixated on their figures, which is why they start losing sight of the fun side of fashion. I also like to think of the business side of things – but if I didn’t have the passion, I would stop immediately. The greed of many retailers makes me angry: somewhere along the line they start ordering cheap products from China so they can earn five times the profit. But that’s what the vertical chain stores are there for; I don’t want to have anything to do with any of that. As a retailer I have to be able to identify with my goods and be credible. If, for example, I see that a big Munich men’s store has reduced all of its Woolrich coats by 50 percent in November, I feel sick to the stomach. Where’s the love for the product? Why didn’t they just order less to start with? How can they squeeze such high-quality products onto hangers like sardines in a tin and virtually sell them off at a loss?

Connecting Global Competence

This seems to be a topic that really stirs up emotion in you...

Of course! I grew up with fashion and textiles. Since 1919 my family has been supplying the fashion world with fabrics. If Miuccia Prada came to see my brother, who is managing the family business, tonight and wants to have a fabric in a certain colour, we could supply it to her by tomorrow morning. From the age of 15 my father would have me work in different production facilities for four weeks at a time. When I was a teenager that often annoyed me, of course, when I had to hang around some French village, sitting at a loom for high-quality lace for three days, until everything was threaded. I also worked at Loro Piana and Etro back then, which helped me to gain an overview of the entire production chain in the fashion industry. And of course I’m very grateful to my father for that today.

So is that a plea for companies to encourage and empower young talents properly?

Indeed it is! Introduce them to the job with lots of practical training. Don’t just have your trainees make your coffee; let them get a taste of the whole business. After all, it’s important to develop a feeling for the goods, the trends, the entire industry. As the head of an agency I can’t be a theorist.

Before I add a new brand to my portfolio which I will be offering to my retailers in Germany, Austria or Switzerland, I test the goods first in my own store for half a year. And even if you have great sales staff, you should make sure that you’re still present in your store. The really good sales assistants usually go on to become buyers – which is totally okay – but then they’ll be gone, unfortunately. Charismatic, cool sales assistants are an incredible magnet in stores.

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Patrick Coppolecchia-­ Reinartz, who is half-Italian, has an enthusiasm for fashion that is contagious.

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But you’re not talking about the many Chinese you read about, working long hours at sewing machines under questionable conditions all over northern Italy?

Please! Italy is Europe, nobody there works under miserable conditions. As an entrepreneur you’d be stupid not to stick to the rules or go behind the backs of the tax authorities. Then you’d be criminalised and your store would be closed down before you can count to three. I regularly visit Italy myself and look at different production facilities. For me as an agency owner, because I mainly represent Italian brands, but also as a store owner, the proximity to the product is incredibly important. I want to know where the things come from and who’s behind them. Yesterday, I saw that I had driven 6500 kilometres in six days – just in Italy.

I work to a tight schedule and push myself hard, but stay persistent as far as my high standards for my clients, their products and of course myself are concerned. My tip: fast fashion has to be selectively distributed like high-quality goods. Just give your regular customers a call if you have something brand new in stock. In Germany you quickly forget that emotions need to be awakened in customers if they are to buy a product.

To conclude, could you give us a prognosis? What do you think the next ten years hold for the fashion retail trade?

Online shopping will start to decline again. This will be a result of tracing, which shows online retailers that a single customer, for example, regularly orders five items and returns four of them. Upscale retail will survive – but it’s going to have to adapt. An affiliated online store is very much a part of this – but less as a shopping portal, and more of an information platform. Instagram is also incredibly important; good photos are always inspiring. Otherwise, for me the future lies in pronto moda, i.e. fast fashion – but selectively and in small quantities. Fashion is lifestyle, it’s always moving, so we have to be too – but please with passion!

Thank you very much for the interview!

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Top Miu Miu Jacket H&M Studio Collection Trousers Victoria Beckham

Roll-neck Gucci Blazer Saint Laurent

Top H&M Studio Collection Cape Krizia Vintage Trousers Victoria Beckham

Dress Balenciaga Shoes Dries Van Noten Sunglasses Zara

Jacket H&M Studio Collection Jumper J.Crew Trousers Claudie Pierlot Socks Falke Shoes Gucci

Top Sandro Suit Zara Shoes Dries Van Noten

Photography Valeria Mitelman www.wildfoxrunning.com Styling Tanja Becker www.tanjabecker.com Hair & make-up Bert Kietzerow / Liganord using products

by Chanel and Londa Professional Model Angelina / Pearl Model Management

Blouse Yves Saint Laurent Vintage Sweater Topshop Blazer See By ChloĂŠ Trousers Claudie Pierlot

Blouse ChloĂŠ Vest Urban Renewal Scarf Vintage Ring Versace Vintage

Dress and coat Ganni Boots Heschung Vintage

Dress Minimarket Jacket Edith & Ella Shoes Prada Vintage

Blouse Paul & Joe Sister Jacket and trousers Capara

Overall Christian Wijnants Coat COS Handbag Coccinelle

Blouse Edith & Ella Coat Stine Goya Skirt Hien Le Boots Dior Vintage

Shirt and tie Reality Studio Coat Edited the Label Trousers Capara

Sweater Ted Baker Jacket Ganni Skirt Ted Baker

Blouse Edith & Ella Glasses Cazal

Photography Domenic Herder www.domenic-herder.com Photo assistant Annika Hirsch Styling Elke R端ss @ Liganord Styling assistant Esther Felten Hair & make-up Janina Zais @ Nina Klein Model Andra @ Mega Model Agency

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Blouse and trousers Reality Studio Coat Paul & Joe

Pullover and trousers Tibi Jacket Paul & Joe Shoes Heschung Vintage

Do you speak Denim?

Simon Giuliani

Sales Force App specifically for that purpose. For this app we came up with icons for all the different technologies that can be used for a particular fabric so that they are easier to comprehend and use in sale. This kind of functional marketing makes a lot of sense in my job because I am simplifying things for our clients in a very direct way.

Candiani is an international company, yet since its founding in 1938, its home base has been a small village north of Milan. What influence does that have on the company culture?

Our culture is certainly defined significantly by the fact that we’re a family business in Italy. And everyone who starts to work with us automatically becomes a member of the family. That demands pretty high levels of commitment, and each and every one of us want to do our work especially well. This enthusiasm, paired with over 75 years of experience, leads to a phenomenally high level of performance.

A crossover artist with principles: as the marketing director of Candiani, Simon Giuliani succeeds in navigating the balancing act between company tradition and the zeitgeist of the fashion sector. Somewhere between innovation and heritage, between the complexity of denim manu-

facturing and the needs of the customer.

Fredericke Winkler spoke to him about the current challenges on the international denim market, about how the Italian manufacturer plans to tackle them and what Giuliani’s contribution involves.

Mr Giuliani, you work in a highly traditional, typically Italian family business. Can you describe the working atmosphere?

Candiani is meanwhile being run in the fourth generation.

When Alberto Candiani officially took over the running of the business three years ago it was important to him to rejuvenate the team. His vision was to take a new approach to marketing and service. I was also a new addition to the company at the time. Alberto gave us plenty of space to develop our own ideas, which is quite unusual in Italy for a company that has so much history. That was very exciting, and still is.

normally we only supply the denim and the washes are done at a different location. Today we offer to accompany the process in a consulting capacity as far as possible. We also run workshops for example. When we saw the positive response to these activities in Italy, we built headquarters with offices, a showroom and a development centre in L.A. After all, 45% of our turnover is generated in the USA.

What exactly was your role?

There were changes taking place. We established our Development Centre where we can provide better consultation for our clients. In cooperation with them we develop optimum combination of fabrics and washes to ensure the desired end results in the product. That’s not always within the realms of our capacities because

For you as an industrial designer, who’d made a name for himself in the fashion sector with several innovative start-up projects, what was it that excited you about this task?

I have always enjoyed grappling with problems and trying to find solutions.

That works especially well when you

have an overview of the entire brand from your own position. That’s the only way that you can get a fundamental idea and see it through to the end.

You seldom get a chance to do that. As marketing director for Candiani I can work on several different levels: from design to the practical marketing. I especially enjoy the challenge of taking on what was a classic supplier and turning it into a brand that can assert itself on the market.

Other than the work in the development centre – what other methods do you have planned to reach this goal?

The first step consists of developing a denim vocabulary and then creating the tools to transmit our extensive technical expertise. We’ve created a

The village has around 5000 inhabitants; Candiani has 650 employees. Which means that a large portion of the village population works for you, right?

Yes, even if you subtract those who commute, that’s true.

Sometimes three generations of the same family work with us. Every time a member of staff retires the entire company celebrates his or her retirement with them. An employee retired recently and her closest colleagues wrote poems for her. It was very ceremonial and moving.

In that respect these things are still dealt with in a very traditional manner. But also from a business point of view it has its advantages. Not just because our employees are loyal, but also because they have incredible knowledge.

Effectively, this is the working ethos and the expertise that make our products stand out at the end of the day.

What does that mean in specific terms?

We have four departments: spinning, dyeing, weaving and finishing. As independent as these departments are, they still have to coordinate quite closely. Because each brings a large range of variants with it: yarn, colours, fixatives, weaves, finishings, over-dyes, to name but a few. Each team gathers a large pool of knowledge that only works as a whole when coordinated by Alberto Candiani himself.

Because what counts in the end is what we can produce and supply. You see a lot of crazy developments on the market. But often there is no follow-up. We practice a strict reality-based policy.

What does that look like?

All our production processes take place in Italy. In this village, Robecchetto con Induno. That is very expensive but it represents a high-level of meticulousness. It’s our aim to ensure top rate products, to ensure that the amount of sub-optimum products remains very small.

That also means that we have to optimise a lot of things beforehand.

In terms of its technical skills, Candiani is miles ahead.

Amongst other things you describe yourself as “the greenest mill in the blue world”. What do you mean by that?

For the Candiani family innovation and sustainability have always gone hand-in-hand. However, that was never

really formulated in the past. It was simply taken for granted by the family. And in terms of marketing we are still very careful in that respect. If we are asked, we are happy to tell people that we are certified according to all international certifications, including SA8000. Or that we can produce to GOTS standards. Since we are located in a natural reserve park the local rules and specifications are much stricter than any ISO standard anyway.

Basically: every time we do something new, we have to ensure that we are more sustainable, more ecologically conscious and more careful with our resources. Whether it’s in terms of our water usage or the chemicals we use.

Innovation equals sustainability, that is our bottom line.

A good example is our ‘N-Denim’. It’s an in-house developed dyeing technology which allows us to reduce water usage by 35% and chemical usage by 50%. Recycling is also a big topic for us and because it looks good, it’s popular with the clients. We stick to the ‘Reduce, Reuse, Recycle’ principle. However, I don’t think that these measures are enough. Besides the use of sustainable ingredients the entire company has to work in a sustainable way. That’s why sustainability is a bit of a touchy subject, because it’s a hotly debated but despite all the discussion is often not backed up in practice. That makes it difficult to appear credible on the market and in the eyes of the consumer.

How do you try to solve this dilemma?

We think it’s important to remain in dialogue and to pass on our knowledge. We concentrate on discussing these issues with our clients and explaining our working methods with the help of our Development Centre. We also invite other interested parties to visit us. Students, journalists and bloggers, for example. We want to be transparent. We also work closely together with institutions like the FIDM in Los Angeles and the Amsterdam Fashion Institute and, as partners, we supported the establishment of the House of Denim. We are also partners in the Blue Lab, an innovation lab in Amsterdam that concentrates on washes. I think with our commitment we are contributing something valuable for the entire industry.

We inform people about how textiles are produced and combined with the right types of washes and explain how this combination can be optimised.

Finally, is there any particular product from the ­Candiani range that best encapsulates the brand?

Off the top of my head I would say the ‘72Warp’. We have reintegrated a warp yarn that was designed 25 years ago by Alberto’s father Gianluigi. It has a pronounced ring character, which gives it this very authentic denim look. We combined it with our latest innovation in terms of ‘comfort stretch’, our in-house developed Traction Denim® technology (basically spinning LYCRA® T400®, to the weft). The result is the perfect mix of heritage look and comfort stretch feel. And the qualities are simply tremendous: zero growth, no bagging out and one hundred percent recovery. We think ‘72Warp’ is a major topic for men’s and womenswear. This combination of tradition and new technology – that is 100% Candiani.

Thank you very much for talking to us.

After studying industrial design, Simon Giuliani, born in 1980, successfully founded various start-ups during his career, including the magazine Diedlastnight. He was the brand manager of various fashion companies like the Pharmacy Industry, before he started working as marketing director for Candiani in 2012. In that this capacity he oversees the new, more service-orientated direction of the denim company under Alberto Candiani.

Textiles & Trends – Simon Giuliani, Candiani S.p.A., Robecchetto con Induno/Italy

Candiani S.p.A.

Candiani Denim The company was founded

by Luigi Candiani in 1938 in Robecchetto con Induno, a small village near ­Milan, and is being run in the fourth generation by ­Alberto Candiani. The denim manufacturers produce around 25 million metres of denim annually, with a staff of 650. With their modern technology and many years of experience, Candiani represents quality ‘Made in Italy’. At their in-house Development Centre they also experiment with new environmentally-friendly washes and treatments, which only further reinforces the label’s justified description of itself as ‘the greenest textile company in the blue world’.

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Textiles & Trends – Simon Giuliani, Candiani S.p.A., Robecchetto con Induno/Italy 63 — 01/2016 108

TExt Fredericke Winkler

www.candianidenim.it

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Textiles & Trends – Denim Première Vision, Barcelona

TExt Fredericke Winkler

Denim Première Vision

On the Denim Trail

MORE THAN LEATHERGOODS

63 — 01/2016

WINTER STYLES 2016

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The path that leads to the future of denim inevitably takes us to Denim ­Première Vision in Barcelona. An event attended by around 100 specialists from Italy, Turkey, the USA and Japan – as well as countries where you might not expect to find such

highly developed expertise in the versatile indigo fabric. From spinning mills, weaving mills and laundries to trimming suppliers, they will all in attendance to showcase their latest innovations.

Together these exhibitors are showing that the journey from raw cotton to the finished pair of jeans is a complex one, with many decisions to be made along the way, all of which are decisive to the final product. How good is the quality of the cotton fibre? And what’s the rule when it comes to straying from the path of the fifty shades of blue? The manufacturers are still nowhere near the end of the road in terms of the sheer endless possibilities for washes and other treatments, not to mention fits.

Despite all this, the almost blasphemous question is no doubt on the tips of many people’s tongues: at the end of the day, isn’t a pair of jeans simply just a pair of jeans?

Are there really such breakthrough innovations taking place which – beyond minimally varying used looks and colour nuances – really deserve the term ‘innovative’?

Let’s get back to basics: denim is not fashion! Denim is an institution. A perennial bestseller, say the retailers. One that any self-respecting clothing range has to include.

Denim is a lifestyle, say the marketing experts. No other item of clothing represents freedom better. A safe bet, say the consumers. When in doubt, a pair of jeans can ensure you’ll be dressed appropriately in pretty much any situation. Hardly any other fashion item can reach as

many people from different social and cultural backgrounds. In every price segment and in every wardrobe. Denim is simply too big to change according to the rules of fashion.

The upside is that if the styles and looks have a longer shelf life on the market, it’s worth investing in new technologies and further developing existing innovations. In order to gauge these innovations as an outsider, you need more than just a cursory look at the range available. You’ll have to delve deeper than that. Stretch jeans?

Of course, they were around in the mid-nineties. But it’s only thanks to the modified modern versions that we finally have a choice in whether we want to flash our intergluteal cleft to all and sundry! What is so innovative about indigo dyeing? Well, just about everything if it can reduce the exorbitant amounts of water normally used.

And the hype surrounding traditional craftsman techniques? All the innovation or technology in the world won’t help if you’re not familiar with the roots of your industry.

Last but not least, we need to understand that this amazingly wide variety is already an innovation in itself.

Nowadays we have the choice between extremely heavyweight and extremely lightweight denim. The stretch factor can be taken to the extreme with jeans that are as elasticated as a pair of tights. On a whim you can have your jeans buried in the desert for a better effect, or treated with laser technology, or not at all. There were certainly quite a few innovations to be discovered during the last November edition of Denim Première Vision. But a pair of jeans is still a pair of jeans. Thankfully.

27 – 29 FEB SUMMER STYLES 2016

10 – 12 SEPT OFFENBACH

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Textiles & Trends – Denim Première Vision, Barcelona

29/1–1/2/2016 Orta Anadolu Symbiosis Comfort remains a major topic. Orta Anadolu, however, is dealing with it in a completely new way. Instead of concentrating merely on wearing comfort, the Turkish denim experts are shifting the focus on the wearer in their entirety – with all the challenges that come with it. A good combination of healthy diet, sports and relaxation will be key in the future for people to find their centre and be at the top of their game, and the jeans manufacturer is sure that clothing will play an important role here. That’s why Orta Anadolu has come up with a bioactive denim. According to the premise, “science goes in; beauty comes out”, the polyamide yarn ‘Emana’ by Italian manufactuer Fulgar, which is enriched with bioactive minerals, is added to the material. These minerals utilise body warmth and return it to the skin in the form of infrared rays. This in turn aims to stimulate blood circulation in the skin and cell metabolism, not to mention reducing cellulite, increasing skin elasticity and making muscles fitter. The night blue or black material is colourfast and certified according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 100. Several brands are already planning to add Symbiosis to their ranges. We’ll be finding out which ones in a few months’ time. One thing is for certain, it’s the slim-fit looks that will be making best use of this new material. And the target group will no doubt be the ladies amongst us. www.ortaanadolu.com

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Creora 360-Degree Denim

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Stretch can no longer really be considered a trend in the world of denim. The stretchability of the usually somewhat stiff blue material has long since become an expected quality. Stretch is omnipresent and is no longer just being used for ladies’ models. Accordingly, manufacturers are continuing to develop the qualities of the material, integrating more stretch while still ensuring a denim look. But it’s not just about maximising elasticity. It’s also about doing it better. We all know that classic stretch jeans have the drawback of only stretching horizontally rather than vertically. One undesirable result is flashing

your bare bottom when bending over, for example. The material also tends to go baggy in high-stress areas like the knees. The bi-stretch technology developed by the brand Creora, under the auspices of the South Korean producers Hyosung, may have come up with a solution. A new spandex yarn could ensure that jeans can stretch in all directions. And this won’t detract from the authentic look: in terms of finishing, jeans made using this material will continue to boast the same qualities of good old denim. Several textile companies, in Pakistan and Turkey for example, are already using the new generation of spandex. So, now there’s nothing standing in the way of a perfect silhouette. www.creora.com

International Fashion Trade Show

Baykanlar From Black to Blue Baykanlar from Istanbul, with facilities in the eastern Anatolian town of Malatya, is a one-stop production facility with a design team of 35.

The company researches trends, makes its own collections, supervises material production, manufacturing and even washing and finishing, all the way down to the packaging – at a volume of around seven million items a year. A service much appreciated by clients like the Inditex Group. At their stand at Denim Première Vision, Baykanlar really did show all of the predicted trends. From 360-degree stretch denim to black denim and particularly lightweight jeans fabrics as well as a sustainably-produced line. The latter in particular suggests what we could confirm later in person: Baykanlar is placing a growing emphasis on modern equipment at its factory and head offices, ensuring higher efficiency as well as resource-saving production. Not only in terms of ecology but also when it comes to social compliance, the company, which was founded in 1998, has a clean bill of health.

With its own CSR team and as a member of the BSCI they follow the international code of conduct to the letter and are regularly audited.

And when it comes to fashion trend expertise Baykanlar can also hold its own. Flared jeans were interpreted by the denim specialists from Turkey with hippie-esque raw edging, military-style materials were softened with the use of elegant cuts and the all-black styles were kept clean and sharp, exactly as they should be. www.baykanlar.com

AREAL BÖHLER ›ALTE SCHMIEDEHALLEN‹ Hansaallee / Düsseldorf www.igedo.com

Ten questions for – Nick Ashley, Creative Director OF Private White V.C.

ten questions for:

Nick Ashley Creative Director OF Private White V.C.

1.

Your mother, Laura Ashley, was a very well-known designer.

What inspired you to follow in her footsteps?

My mother introduced me to interesting clothes from a very early age so I’ve always been obsessed with them. To me, clothes represent a language all of their own and serve as an indicator of the ever-changing anthropology of this earth. Apologies if that sounds over the top!

63 — 01/2016

2.

What would you be doing today if you didn’t end up in the fashion business?

I would be an artist.

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3.

Private White is a family-run business. Can you imagine your daughters coming on board to work for the company?

My daughters have both worked for Private White and for me, in between stuff that they do for themselves.

4.

What does tradition mean to you?

Tradition to me is rules. And rules were made to be broken.

7.

What defines great outerwear?

Great outerwear keeps you warm and dry but also stores all your stuff safely. Really great outerwear may even get you laid!

5.

What do you like most and least about the fashion world?

What I love about fashion is the aggressive competition; what I hate is the aggressive competition.

8.

What’s your current personal favourite?

My favourite piece of clothing at the moment is my flight suit, remade in a simplified form of washed cotton drill with copper zips. I wear it all day, every day.

I wore it the whole time I was in Germany, I love it.

6.

You love motorcycle sports. How do you convey this passion in your fashion designs?

I race cars and bikes and I design clothes in general. I once also specialised in motorcycle clothes, but that was twenty years ago. Private White is not about motorcycle clothing though. I have moved on since then.

9.

What piece of clothing do you prefer designing?

I prefer designing a piece of clothing that helps to move things forward. To mix retro style with high-tech developments is what interests me. I don’t often get the timing right with regards to marketing the product though.

I am too keen to be the firestarter.

10.

Fashion’s stage is big cities, which is the opposite of where you’re from. What’s your favourite place in Wales and why?

Fashion is not just for cities!

When I’m in Wales I hang out with my young farmer friends and they question me endlessly about Blundstones versus RM Williams, Icebreaker merino or Patagonia, W.S.E stretch denim slim-cut shearing jeans or Kaihara narrow loom Japanese jeans, Subaru or Land Rover, the list is endless.

These things are expensive and they need to save up but that’s part of the fun. Fashion is fun, it’s a reflection of how you feel on the inside, displayed on the outside for all to see.

PAOLO VENTURA FOR WOOLRICHART

Summer Parka

woolrich.eu