JEANSWEAR And CONTEMPORARY FASHION
English
No 65 / 3-2016
Cool Cities Dubai Street Styles Retail Talks ANd Service
INterviewS with: Nisreen Shocair, Karl Schwitzke, T-Michael, Stephan Kalbfell, Marco Lanowy, Christoph Stelzer, Marco Götz D 9.50 Eur B/NL/A 10.50 EUr E/P/I 11.50 Eur CH 15.80 CHF
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EDITORIAL
BRAVE NEW WORLD
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DUBAI: THE NEW METROPOLIS OF BOUNDLESS OPPORTUNITY
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Our quest for progressive store design projects and interesting retail concepts often takes us to far-flung destinations. While Tokyo, São Paulo and Los Angeles were our favourites so far, the setting of this issue’s Cool Cities special, the futuristic destination of Dubai, is also gliding effortlessly into the upper echelons of our list. What happens when money does the talking in a highly competitive retail sector can be witnessed in all its magnitude at Dubai’s malls. The ultra-modern, premium shop architecture in the city’s vast consumer temples, The Dubai Mall and The Mall of the Emirates, is simply jaw-dropping. Retailers here are constantly outdoing one another with more innovative and more impressive store designs. And if anyone knows how to prove that bigger is better then it’s the United Arab Emirates. Although the whole mall concept seems to have fallen out of favour in Europe, with people in this part of the world preferring more exclusive shopping experiences, a trip to Dubai’s malls and their stylishly designed Céline and Apple stores is enough to change the mind of even the staunchest mall sceptic. But also outdoor ‘walkable retail’ beyond the malls is being rediscovered in this city on the coast of the Persian Gulf: Dubai’s outdoor shopping miles, known as ‘Walks’, are enjoying growing popularity. From page 42 you can read all about which stores are leading the way in terms of design and offer, and also find out the best place to unwind and cool down after a sweltering day in the desert. We talked to Karl Schwitzke about the trends originating from this multicultural, superlativecraving metropolis and how they are influencing the European market. His architecture and design firm Schwitzke & Partner has been active in Dubai for 13 years now and opened its own office there eight years ago. We also wanted to look at the city’s shopping eldorado from the perspective of a successful retailer so we met up with Nisreen Shocair, President of
Virgin Megastore Middle East & North Africa, at her office in the Media One Tower. In our interview she let us in on what makes the United Arab Emirates’ generation of under-30s tick. Despite her impressive title – Forbes Middle East included her in their list of the top 100 most powerful women in the Middle East – she still knows exactly what her target group wants and needs. Shocair is well aware that they are turning their backs on the big brands and tells us how she’s managed to transform the foundering CD and DVD retailer Virgin into a flourishing lifestyle brand over the last ten years. And moving closer to home: the unexploited potential of Germany’s own retail sector was the topic of a round table panel in Stuttgart. Host Christoph Stelzer, co-founder of the retail specialist DFrost and the shopfitting expert in the group, participated in a lively discussion with Stephan Kalbfell, owner of the Stuttgart fashion institution Ave and representative of the retail sector. Completing the trio was Marco Lanowy, CEO of Alberto and responsible for the brand’s retail, sales and marketing. You’ll find answers to the questions of how bricksand-mortar and online retail could mutually benefit each another and what qualities and skills the participants think a modern retailer should bring to the table from page 66. And last but not least – let’s not forget the fashion, which at the end of the day will always be our first love. In this issue’s photo editorials Frauke Fischer from Berlin, Ansgar Sollmann from London and Valeria Mitelman from Berlin and Kathrin Makowski from Munich are all showcasing refreshingly unconventionally styled oversized looks. A trend that we’re predicting will have a very big future and confirms what we discovered in Dubai: big really can be better! Enjoy reading this new issue, Ilona Marx
ILONA MARX Ilona Marx and Stuttgart photographer Nikolaus Grünwald didn’t have it easy with this Cool Cities special – at least not when it came to getting permission to take photos. Unlike in Europe, taking photos of stores and buildings is strictly regulated in Dubai, and even at outdoor locations the next security guard was never far away.
READ THE GERMAN VERSION OF THIS EDITORIAL ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/ JNC_MAGAZINE
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DAS ORIGINAL – MIT FUSSBETT. birkenstock.com
CONTENTS
OVERVIEW
CONTENTS
THE MASTERPIECES
21
STREET STYLES
40
DUBAI RETAIL
42
70
16
DUBAI SERVICE
50
ROUND TABLE STUTTGART
66
NORWEGIAN RAIN
60
FASHION SHOOTS
84
110
TEXTILES & TRENDS
FASHION SHOOTS
96
10 QUESTIONS FOR ...
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MUST BUYS
38
COOL CITIES DUBAI
BITS & PIECES
COLUMN 10
14
MUST BUYS
70
FASHION SHOOTS
76
CONTENTS
OVERVIEW
CONTENTS EDITORIAL CONTENTS IMPRINT COLUMN / CONTRIBUTORS BITS & PIECES
8 10 12 14 16
THE MASTERPIECES
21
MUST BUYS
70
FASHION SHOOTS ANSGAR SOLLMANN
SMOKE & MIRRORS
76
FRAUKE FISCHER
COOL CITIES DUBAI
38
STREET STYLES RETAIL SERVICE
40 42 50
TALKS – NISREEN SHOCAIR VIRGIN MEGASTORE
54
TALKS – KARL SCHWITZKE SCHWITZKE & PARTNER
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KREUZBERG
84
VALERIA MITELMAN
LE CHAT NOIR
96
KATHRIN MAKOWSKI
ANGEL HEART
104
TEXTILES & TRENDS ORHAN BAYKAN, BAYKANLAR TEXTILE
THE GAME CHANGER
BRANDS & BRAINS T-MICHAEL, NORWEGIAN RAIN
COME RAIN OR SHINE
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TEN QUESTIONS FOR MARCO GÖTZ
GAASTRA
BEYOND THE SEA
64
110
CEO OF DRYKORN
114
RETAIL ROUND TABLE
GERMAN RETAIL: QUO VADIS?
PUBLISHER EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Hildebrandtstr. 24 d 40215 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ilona Marx /im
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ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pierre D’Aveta
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EDITOR Cheryll Mühlen /cm FREELANCE CONTRIBUTORS Gerlind Hector /gh, Deborah Roth, Fredericke Winkler /fw PHOTOGRAPHY Cathrin Beck, Frauke Fischer, Nikolaus Grünwald, Peter Lorenz, Kathrin Makowski, Valeria Mitelman, Ansgar Sollmann, Bernd Wichmann ILLUSTRATION Mathias Suess TRANSLATION Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de
DESIGN & LAYOUT Martin Steinigen, chewing the sun www.chewingthesun.com IMAGE EDITING Jean Pascal Zahn COPY EDITORS Christina Borkenhagen, Paula Hedley, Eva Westhoff PRINT Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 151 p.daveta@bb-mediacompany.com
PRICE Germany 9.50 EUR A, NL, B 10.50 EUR; E, P, I 11.50 EUR Switzerland 15.80 CHF BANK DETAILS BTV Bank für Tirol u. Vorarlberg AG IBAN DE25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 SWIFT BTVADE61XXX DATA PROTECTION NOTICE In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The subscriber can appeal against this guideline. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases Düsseldorf.
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COLUMN
TEXT GERLIND HECTOR ILLUSTRATION MATHIAS SUESS
Some of our
CONTRIBUTORS
CATHRIN BECK
COLUMN
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Little Rabbit in Your Burrow
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Back in the eighties Hasi & Mausi (German for ‘bunny’ and ‘mousey’) was the name jokingly given to the new Swedish fashion chain store that was suddenly opening one store after another on Europe’s shopping streets. And of course it was meant as a bit of a put-down: after all, any store that dared to simply display two capital letters above its doors instead of coming up with a catchy name had to be a bit cheap. But even though it was meant as an insult back in the day, today it would no doubt be quite flattering. In the year 2016 we’re all about full-on cuteness and the adorable cuddly toy look. The endless deluge of cat content currently circulating the net is proof enough of this and even psychologists are touting it as the perfect way to relieve stress. In the era of Grumpy Cat and Boo the Pomeranian puppy, who are warming the cockles of our hearts with their cuteness overload, the fashion industry has also finally decided to cash in on the animal trend. After the visionary Karl Lagerfeld brought us the Choupette hat two winters ago, which, with its little cat ears and delicate whiskers, should really have been banished to the children’s department, other labels are now following suit and recognising the sign of the times: British designer Peter Jensen, for example, is proffering a sweatshirt with white rabbit print. Panda print bikinis by the Australian label (attention: cheesy name alert!) We Are Handsome are already sold out and Moschino even wants to see us donning head-to-toe teddy bear outfits,
complete with bear dress, glasses, earrings and little bag. And let’s not forget, all of these items are specifically designed for ‘mature’ fashionistas, not their cute offspring. These forays into the world of animal fashion don’t exactly scream power and emancipation either. Bunnies, cute little bears and pussycats are definitely at the lower end of the food chain, which actually makes them more pitiful than sexy. While the perennial tiger and leopard prints, now firmly installed in the “New Neutrals” category, at least exude a sense of power and prowess, the new animal art is bringing out our more caring side. The reason why we’re currently happy to disguise ourselves as sacrificial animals is obvious. The war on terror, the refugee crisis and the daily news bulletins that we’ll all be as poor as church mice in our old age are clearly taking their toll. This is also confirmed by the American scientist Kari Weil, who specialises in the relationship between humans and animals. She says that by identifying with them we are professing our solidarity with creatures who hop through life without a master plan, only concerned with eating, procreating and sleeping. Time to say goodbye to the whole alpha animal hype: these days nobody wants to see aggressive avantgarde fashion. So bring on the bunny slippers and the onesies with curly tail. Finally we can all be true fashion “victims” who want to be protected and only have one aim in life: to love and be loved!
Cathrin was born and bred in Düsseldorf and has no plans to leave the green pastures of the Rhineland. And why would she? This is where her friends, family, husband and Petrie, her most loyal companion, all live. While Cathrin photographs her stills, the purebred whippet can usually be found lying well-behaved in the corner, and is just as bad at getting out of bed in the morning as she is. But she was definitely wide-awake on our shoot for his issue’s must-buys. To recharge her batteries she likes to spend her summers in a small village in the Provence with plenty of baguette and vin rouge by the litre.
FRAUKE FISCHER Born in East Berlin before the Wall came down, photographer Frauke Fisher experienced the turbulent cultural changes of the German capital city up close and personal. After studying ethnography and Indian art history she turned her attention to photography. ‘More is more’ is the code she lives by, and that’s exactly how this issue’s fashion shoot in Kreuzberg went down. In mid-January, despite the icy cold and a biting easterly wind, Frauke’s positive energy and upbeat mood helped to warm the hearts of our shivering team. And just before we wrapped for the day she even managed to get the sun to peek out from behind the dark clouds.
NIKOLAUS GRÜNWALD Sydney, Seoul, South Texas – Nikolaus certainly knows his way around planet Earth, and always has his two Canons and Pentax 645z close to hand. On his home turf in Stuttgart he can be spotted skating around on his roller skis, preparing for the winter cross-country ski season. The architectural and people photographer is certainly fit as a fiddle, as he proved during our trip to Dubai, where he packed so many locations and appointments into a very short time with impressive results. But there’s no doubt that this was also down to his excellent organisational skills – and we’d expect nothing less from a law student who just passed his second state examination.
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BITS & PIECES
BITS & PIECES MOVING MOUNTAINS:
INTERIOR OASIS Once upon a time, the caravan city of Palmyra was a burgeoning place of trade, a flowering oasis in the Syrian desert and an important station on the Silk Road. This palm-inspired standard lamp by New York company Moving Mountains is an homage to the long forgotten splendour of the city and also its regal palm trees. Nowadays only ruins remain in the sand, but Palmyra is still surrounded by 20 different types of palm tree. Anyone wanting to add not only light, but also a small piece of the Middle East to their home, will love this 2-metre-tall palm lamp made of brass, steel and glass./cm
PIG & HEN:
PRIZE DRAW Ahoy, me hearties! There’s a good chance that Dutch men’s accessories label Pig & Hen will bring out the pirate in you. With its masculine wristbands they are paying tribute to the old seafarers and reminding us of a long forgotten superstition. To protect themselves from the dangers of the sea, pirates would have the images of a pig and a chicken tattooed onto their feet, in the hope that in the case of a shipwreck they would be washed onshore with the tide – just like these animals in their wooden cages. And the wristbands might even keep their promise in real life: handmade in Amsterdam, they can withstand a pull of up to 1400 kg. It’s all in the combination: authentic sailing rope and solid steel clasps can be used in an emergency, whether on the high seas or dry land. And because everyone could do with a bit of luck, J’N’C has ten Pig & Hen wristbands to give away! You can enter the prize draw now on our Facebook page. Time to weigh your anchor and set sail! / cm
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WWW.PIGHEN.COM
WWW.MVNGMTNS.COM
O’NEILL:
BACK TO THE ROOTS Good vibes of the laid-back Californian surfer variety are what American brand O’Neill is serving up for spring/summer 2017. The heritage T-shirt collection picks up on iconic motifs from 65 years of O’Neill history. Some of the prints were created in collaboration with graphic designer and passionate surfer Jeff Canham from San Francisco. And it was particularly important to O’Neill that every piece should exude a feeling of freedom and self-expression. After all, that’s exactly what good Californian vibes are all about. /cm WWW.ONEILL.COM
CHEERZ X POLAROID:
PAST AND PRESENT Not all types of photo are equal. The digital snapshot taken with your smartphone, for example, will look different to a photo taken using an analogue camera. And that kind of photograph looks different again to what is probably the most famous instant photo in the world: the Polaroid. The ultimate camera, which experienced its heyday between the 1960s and 90s, was relegated to the back of cupboards with the advent of the digital era, where it remained forgotten for a long time. But the original Instagram photo is celebrating its comeback this year. Together with French start-up Cheerz, Polaroid is uniting the past with the present to create a new future. The Polaroid 3000 allows you to print digital images from your phone on the legendary thick and glossy embossed paper with textured frame, thanks to the use of a free app for iOS and Android. Naturally the app comes with authentic Polaroid filters and the Polaroid box holds 18 unique photographs. All together now: Cheese! /cm WWW.CHEERZ.COM
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BITS & PIECES
LIU JO:
TRUE INDIGO LOVE ... is what keeps on inspiring Italian fashion company Liu Jo to create new looks using the “blue gold”. And for the spring/summer 2017 season, new looks mean new fits, new materials and lots of smart details that are giving denim a real upgrade. Whether as summery 7/8-length jeans, a cool statement coat in a destroyed look, playful, skinnyfit overalls, relaxed boyfriend cuts or sexy pencil skirts – Liu Jo is using every possible opportunity to bring the indigo fabric into play. /cm
TURNOVER:
STYLE COMPANION
WWW.LIUJO.COM
When we asked Turnover’s head designer Arna Cornelissen what her approach is for each new collection, she said, “I want to create a collection of clothes that match so easily, you don’t have to think too much.” Despite, or perhaps because of this practical approach, Cornelissen and her team have managed once again to create an exciting and at the same time supremely simple pre-SS17 collection that is smart and effortless. Inspired by traditional Dutch costume and authentic workwear, Turnover has opted for a choice of high-quality materials like baby alpaca, silk, flowing cotton viscose, cashmere and suede to create some truly elegant and cool looks. “Powerful, yet feminine,” as the designer sums up perfectly. /cm
J. LINDEBERG:
LICENCE TO KILL
You can’t beat a man in a tailored suit. 007 himself, the one and only James Bond, reminds us of that every two to three years. But a woman in a tailored suit would make even the coolest secret agent lose his cool. And Stockholm label Label J. Lindeberg is surprising us in spring/summer 2017 with precisely that: an absolute must-have which every cosmopolitan woman needs in her wardrobe. Naturally J. Lindeberg sticks to its ‘bridging fashion and function’ mantra in this collection too, designing fashion for an active lifestyle. But whether or not the ladies’ model can withstand the kind of action Bond puts his suits through remains to be seen.../cm
WWW.TURNOVER.COM
WWW.JLINDEBERG.DE
CINQUE:
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CONTEMPORARY COOLNESS A glance at the Cinque spring/summer 2017 collection will tell you that the coming spring season is going to be sporty. Both the women’s and men’s collections experiment with the cool, chic active look that is perfect for pretty much any occasion. This is also thanks to the fabric options: cool cotton, timeless linen, which during the summer months is ‘cool’ in more ways than one, laid-back denim as well as fresh new colours – ranging from aqua and navy to offwhite, down to yellow, olive and classic black. And while the ladies are making feminine statements in the pencil skirt, wrap dress or gladiator skirt with leather pleating, the men will be attracting envious glances in the retro-style windowpane pattern suit, short trench coat or loose-fitting jersey denim. /cm WWW.CINQUE.COM
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PANORAMA FAIR BERLIN HALL 3, STAND 3.01
PME-LEGEND.COM
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THE MASTERPIECES
THE MASTERPIECES EDITOR’S PICK
J’N’C PROUDLY PRESENTS: THE MASTERPIECES THAT HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO BECOME TRUE CLASSICS
TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN
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PHOTOS BERND WICHMANN
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THE MASTERPIECES
Lady in Red / JOSEPH
Gertrude JOSEPH In 1986 when the Irish singer Chris de Burgh famously crooned “I’ve never seen you looking so lovely as you did tonight” in his biggest hit ‘Lady in Red’, he was probably picturing a woman in a, let’s say, more seductive dress than our masterpiece here. ‘Gertrude’ from the pre-fall 2016 collection by London brand Joseph may not sound very sexy and at first sight looks like the decorous daytime version of the famous red dress, but that makes it no less appealing. With its playful draping that transforms every step into a little dance, as well as the patch pocket on the chest, this sporty dress with Duchesse and Sport Coating nevertheless still manages to exude a subtle elegance. The tie-knot belt emphasises the feminine silhouette and white seams add an additional sporty touch to the striking bright red that will ensure that everyone’s eyes are on the wearer this coming autumn, who might even inspire Chris de Burgh’s next hit song.
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WWW.JOSEPH-FASHION.COM
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THE MASTERPIECES
French Work of Art / PAUL & JOE SISTER
Geometric PAUL & JOE SISTER Cubism or constructivism? Work of art or item of clothing? French label Paul & Joe Sister is covering all bases with this masterpiece that is worthy of all categories. ‘Geometric’, the lightweight blouson for the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection, makes a clear fashion statement with its striking, geometrically-arranged triangular motifs. And it’s not untypical of designer Sophie Mechaly: for her, fashion means fun. But while Paul & Joe indulge in playful colour and youth with their Paul & Joe Sister line, ‘Geometric’ manages the balancing act between girly attitude and grownup resilience. With its small-format quilting, another three-dimensional aspect is added to the already strong visuals of the blouson, making ‘Geometric’ a masterpiece that looks the part whether worn out and about or in a museum. P.S. Happy 20th anniversary from us!
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WWW.PAULANDJOE.COM
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Z E I TG E I ST FA S H I O N . T R A D E . S H O W.
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28 – 30 J U N E 2016
W W W. PA N O R A M A- B E RL I N .C O M
THE MASTERPIECES
A Higher Calling / BARACUTA
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G9 BARACUTA
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Originally designed as a golfing jacket, the iconic G9 blouson was simply destined for greater things than just hanging out on the perfectly trimmed lawns of the golf club. But legendary Hollywood star Steve McQueen also had a hand in its meteoric rise. He was so keen on the G9 that he wore it both on and off set. The rest is history. Inspired by the popular silhouette of the MA1 jacket and with the practical characteristics of a raincoat, the G9 Herringtonstyle jacket by English brand Baracuta has very laid-back air about it. And because, as men-
tioned, its origins lie in golfing, it not only has a clean look, but also a whole host of functional features: the shoulder yolks on the back repel water while also ensuring breathability and the stand-up collar and raglan
sleeves provide ample ease of movement, while the pockets are perfect for storing your smartphone, keys, wallet and even a dozen golf balls. A genuine holein-one! WWW.BARACUTA.COM
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DISCOVER OUR NEW SPRING / SUMMER COLLECTION PANORAMA, BERLIN: 28.– 30.06.16 M O D E FA B R I K , A M S T E R D A M 1 0. – 1 1. 07. 16 H A L L E 2 9 , D Ü S S E L D O R F : 2 2. – 25. 07. 16 G D S , D Ü S S E L D O R F : 2 6 . – 2 8. 07. 16 CIFF, KOPENHAGEN: 10.– 12.08.16 WWW.CAMELACTIVE.DE
HALL 3, 3.04
THE MASTERPIECES
A Leap Into the Future / ADIDAS ORIGINALS
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NMD_R1 W ADIDAS ORIGINALS
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When the DNA of iconic Adidas Originals is combined with modern Boost and Primeknit technology, the result is an urban masterpiece, made for the hectic lifestyle of the city nomad. The NMD_R1 W Sneaker in Raw Pink by the sports giants Adidas Originals might take a bit of getting used to at first glance, but
it’s a genuine leap into the future! Equipped with the striking Primeknit upper and highly reactive Boost midsole that provides a springy response and a substantially cushioned ride thanks to thousands of small capsules, this women’s model is a stateof-the-art sneaker that is setting new benchmarks for minimalist design combined with top-level functionality. Oh, and by the way:
the lightweight style is a symbiosis of the three Adidas archive models Micropacer, Rising Star and Boston Super. In a modern context the individual elements of the retro shoes culminate in a new streetwear must-have that perfectly encapsulates Adidas’ philosophy: “The past empowers the future.” WWW.ADIDAS.DE/ORIGINALS
PASSIONATE
UNIQUE
A INNOVATIVE
CREATIVE
FLEXIBLE
THE MASTERPIECES
Comfort Zone / HERRLICHER
Pitch HERRLICHER
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It’s hard to imagine there was once a time before stretch, just as it’s hard to imagine that stretch trousers rarely looked like authentic denim. Today it’s a completely different story. What a pair of jeans can look like when power stretch is brought into the game is currently being shown by Herrlicher with their classic super-slim model ‘Pitch’. Designed for women, it was inspired by workers, farmers and miners and has been one of their bestsellers since 2008: with its high elastic-
ity it bounces right back into shape, allowing plenty of ease of movement. The low-rise cut with the higher back along with the low position of the back pockets makes the style somewhat reminiscent of the early 2000s, which doesn’t necessarily have to be a negative thing. After all, low-rise jeans represented ultrafeminine sexiness back then too. And thanks to the power stretch factor, sexiness can also be combined with the ultimate wearing comfort in 2016. WWW.HERRLICHER.COM
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L’ORIGINAL, LE CLASSIC, L’ESPADRIJ. Made in France
SEEK Berlin, 28.-30.06.16, Booth C46, PANORAMA Berlin, 28.-30.06.16, Booth 9.96 ESPADRIJ L’ORIGINALE®, Fichtenstraße 70, 40233 Düsseldorf, Germany ad@ff bymg.com, +49(0)211-30212626, www.espadrij.com
THE MASTERPIECES
Backstreet Girl / CLOSED
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Sol CLOSED
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Fashion is a perpetually moving carousel, continually reinventing itself with each new round. It’s a well-known fact that bygone decades are often dredged up to be newly interpreted or referenced. In 2016 we are mainly preoccupied with one particular decade: the nineties! Perhaps because this was the time before the new millennium and the dawning of a new age, but perhaps it’s
simply because the trends of all decades comes back in fashion at some point. Nevertheless, the nineties are back! And they’re better than ever. Just take ‘Sol’, for example, a blouse made of 100% genuine black leather from the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection by German label Closed. With its straight cut and accentuated centre seam, it really is
an all-round talent. Combined with sporty denim, sexy skinny jeans or a sophisticated skirt, memories of the good old days of the Backstreet Boys come flooding back. The practical press-studs even allow for dramatic, button-popping moments in the rain. Ah, those were the days… WWW.CLOSED.COM
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co nte mpo RARy fAsh ion t RA de s h ow
28 - 30 J u n e 2016 A R e n A B e R li n
www.seekexhiBitions.com
THE MASTERPIECES
Baroque Beauty / MELAMPO
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Polo Shirt MELAMPO
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France’s legendary Marie “Let them eat cake!” Antoinette would have loved this baroqueinspired blouse by Italian label Melampo. Historically speaking, it would be more accurate to point out that she lived during the rococo period, but considering the fact that baroque came first, we’ll let it pass. Either way: the tender rosé hues and airy cut in combination with an eighties rock-style sexiness would have been exactly her cup of tea. After all, it is the interaction of transparency and concealment that makes this silk crêpe polo shirt so interesting and seductive. Add to that true Italian expertise and we have a worthy masterpiece on our hands. It all began in the post-war period in 1947, when Antonio Polletti founded his business and began producing caps. Over the years he added men’s shirts to his repertoire, until he was offering a complete product range well into the eighties. Only two years ago the three Polletti children, Lulù, Anna and Bruno, heralded
in a new era for the Milan-based family business. By the way the company’s only store is in Berlin, so what are you waiting for? WWW.MELAMPO.EU
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30 & 31 AUGUST 20 16
WWW. MUNICHFABRICSTART.COM //
MUNICH FABRIC START //
# MUNICHFABRICSTART & #BLUEZONEMUNICH
THE MASTERPIECES
Big City Lights / PERRET SCHAAD
Gert PERRET SCHAAD Allow us to introduce Gert. No worries, the somewhat unusual name of this modern wrap skirt from the Perret Schaad autumn/ winter 2016/17 collection did initially surprise us too. But when you take a closer look at the entire collection, the name Gert no longer seems quite so absurd. Designers Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad have experimented with masculine elements to create a subtle, relaxed city look for the Perret Schaad cosmopolitan lady à la Carrie Bradshaw. The colour range is also inspired by an urban setting. Gert, with its wavy orange stitching, is reminiscent of city lights or early evening sunsets reflected in modern glass office blocks, which, in contrast to the 100% wool georgette in rosé, bring a touch of September sun to the autumn months. And the asymmetrical cut also reveals a glimpse of sunkissed skin.
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PERRETSCHAAD.COM
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A NEW: TUES –THUR 26 – 28 JUL 2016
GDS-ONLINE.COM
COOL CITIES / DUBAI
TEXT ILONA MARX PHOTOS NIKOLAUS GRÜNWALD
Cool Cities
DUBAI
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A twelve-lane highway, Sheikh Zayed Road, cuts through the city. This is the main traffic artery where sports cars whizz past the high-rise apartment buildings glittering in the dazzling sunshine. Dubai is the capital of the eponymous Emirate, which, together with another six, forms the federation of the United Arab Emirates. But only nine percent of the city’s inhabitants are Emiratis. The rest are expats, sent over to work here by their companies back home, or migrant workers from South-East Asia, India, Pakistan and North Africa, trying their luck as construction labourers or hotel staff. If you think London and New York are melting pots, you should visit the bustling microcosm of Dubai – you’d be hard pushed to find a more vibrant mix of cultures anywhere else.
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But it’s not only the mix of nationalities that defines this metropolis, which meanwhile more than two million people call home. The motto they go by here is higher, faster, bigger, better – a mission statement that’s being received loud and clear around the world. Following an unprecedented building boom, the Emiratis are particularly proud of the structures they have built, including the Burj Khalifa, the world’s highest building with its breathtaking viewing platform, not to mention gigantic consumer temples like The Dubai Mall and The Mall of the Emirates, and one of the most expensive and luxurious hotels ever, the Burj Al Arab with its own island and the architectural appearance of a billowing sail. These superlatives are magnets for up to 14 million tourists annually, making Dubai one of the top five most visited cities in the world last year. However, most of these tourists, who tend to immerse themselves in the glitz and glamour of this consumer paradise, miss out on another side of Dubai that is equally as fascinating: the creative use of free spaces. In the former Al Quoz industrial area, for example, a flourishing art scene has developed in vacant warehouses, which has had a knock-on effect on the local fashion scene. The centre of activity is Alserkal Avenue, a compound in which meanwhile nine high-profile galleries have settled. Additional art spaces and artist ateliers, boxing clubs and bicycle stores have since opened in the surrounding streets. Pretty concept stores along Jumeirah Beach Road and buzzing events like the Ripe Food Market, which takes place every Friday at Zabeel Park and draws locals as well as an international crowd, also portray a different side to the city. A city that doesn’t define itself solely by superla-
tives and its many different facets, but also by its energy-driven, business-oriented inhabitants. Flaunting your wealth is the norm here. Lamborghinis, Hummers, Rolls-Royces, Ferraris and Porsches can be spotted on most street corners. Young people, even students, are dressed from head to toe in designer brands. So the retail sector is booming; shopping is inextricably linked to Dubai. So it’s only logical that the store designs and mall architecture are especially lavish and grand, with every conceivable luxury brand represented. Brands here seem to be battling it out to have the most elaborate and sumptuous store. This makes Dubai a dream market for store architects, as confirmed by Karl Schwitzke in our interview with him on page 56. The German retail specialist runs a branch of his shopfitting business in the city. And an interesting insight into the shopping culture in this part of the world was also provided by Nisreen Shocair, who, as President of Virgin Megastores for the Middle East & North Africa, is one of the most influential businesswomen in the Middle East. J’N’C editor-in-chief Ilona Marx found her not only to be very inspiring, but also incredibly hospitable and welcoming – attributes Nisreen shares with many of Dubai’s locals. Thanks very much to Karl Schwitzke, Andrea Krsnik, Marcus Käss, Ornella Khattar, Abdullah Al Alawy, Kenzie Kingman, Roger Saad, Nisreen Shocair, Arundhati Sen from Air Charter International and Hassan. READ THE GERMAN VERSION OF THIS GUIDE ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE
DUBAI IN NUMBERS Founding year of the United Arab Emirates: 1971 Highest building (in the world): Burj Khalifa at 828 m Recycled steel from the demolished Palace of the Republic in East Berlin used to construct the Burj Khalifa: several thousand tonnes Gold leaf (24-carat) embellishing the Burj Al Arab hotel: 1790 m² Total price of an overnight stay in the Burj Al Arab’s Deluxe Suite (170 m²): from 7788 AED, approx. 1921 EUR Sand and stones used to create the Palm Islands: approx. 200 million m³ At the peak of its building boom in 2006, around one in every four of the world’s cranes could be found in Dubai. Around a third of Dubai’s population is Indian or of Indian descent. Biggest shopping mall: The Dubai Mall covering 1 million m² (350,000 m² of which is retail space) with 1200 stores Number of bus shelters: over 1000, 800 of which are air-conditioned
COOL CITIES / DUBAI
THE MOTTO HERE IS HIGHER, FASTER, BIGGER, BETTER – A MISSION STATEMENT THAT’S BEING RECEIVED AROUND
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THE WORLD.
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI — STREET STYLES
DUBAI STREET STYLES
FARIZ, 22, air traffic controller Kandora No brand Sandals Private Collection Sunglasses Dior MOHAMMED, 22, student Kandora No brand Sandals Ky Boot Sunglasses From a petrol station in Vienna
I LIVED IN BERLIN FOR A LONG TIME. WHEN IT COMES TO FASHION, THE PEOPLE THERE ARE MUCH BOLDER THAN HERE. MARYAM
MARYAM, 31, fashion designer Skirt & coat Slouchyz Top Maison Martin Margiela Shoes Céline Bag Hermès Sunglasses Miu Miu Watch Piaget Bracelets Cartier, Bulgari
AHMED, 20, student Sunglasses Chopard Shoes Calvin Klein Pen Cartier Car Ferrari MAHMUT, 20 student
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Trousers Tommy Hilfiger T-shirt Saint Noir Berlin Sneakers Nike
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RUPERT, 30, management consultant Blazer & waistcoat Hammond & Co. Trousers & shoes Zara Scarf Vintage Sunglasses Ray-Ban
BURHAN, 22, hotel employee Suit Raffinatt Shirt Alkaran Tie Jones New York Shoes Tiger of Sweden Tie pin Hermès Watch Guess Sunglasses Ray-Ban
COOL CITIES / DUBAI — STREET STYLES
KENZIE, 28, assistant marketing manager Overall Neil Barrett Shoes Zara
MIRKA, 28, flight attendant Dress Pimkie Shoes Nose Belt & sunglasses River Island Watch Michael Kors
FRANCESCO, 29, architect Jacket, trousers & shirt 2Due di UGK Cardigan Massimo Dutti Shoes Cuoieria Fiorentina Scarf Zara Glasses Armani
DUBAI IS A MELTING POT OF STYLES FROM ALL COUNTRIES. I FIND THAT VERY INSPIRING! ELIANA
VÉRONIQUE, 54, French teacher
ELIANA, 39, vet
JAMILA, 30, personal shopper at Burberry Dress Parosh Bag Burberry Sandals Izon
Dungarees Studio F Vest Bershka Scarf From Columbia Boots Fendi Cap H&M Sunglasses Ray-Ban
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Blouse Ralph Lauren Trousers Zara Jacket From my daughter Bag Longchamp Sandals Minelli Sunglasses Aldo Bracelet & earrings Tiffany
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL
DUBAI RETAIL
BOUTIQUE 1 The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence Murjan Tower 3 Dubai T +971 (0)4 4257888 OPENING HOURS Mon – Sun 10 am – 11 pm Mall of the Emirates, Fashion Dome Sheikh Zayed Road Al Barsha 1 Dubai T +971 (0)4 3951200 OPENING HOURS Sun – Wed 10 am – 10 pm Thurs – Sat 10 am – 12 am WWW.BOUTIQUE1.COM
CEO ZIAD MATTA THINKS THE PERSONAL TOUCH IS WHAT COUNTS WHEN
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Alexander Wang, Elie Saab, Erdem, Giambattista Valli, Isabel Marant, Monica Vinader, Oscar de la Renta, Paul & Joe, Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Raquel Allegra, Victoria Beckham
IT COMES
BOUTIQUE 1 Boutique 1 on the exclusive Jumeirah Beach Walk is so huge that it’s more like a department store than a boutique. But, hey, we are in Dubai after all! The dimensions are simply different here. Ziad Matta, CEO of the multi-brand store thinks the personal touch is what counts when it comes to fashion, whether in terms of buying or advising the clientele. And so despite its size, they very much pursue a bou-
BRANDS
TO FASHION. tique concept here. Particularly as the selection of the collections is very bold and progressive, which also justifies the 1 in the name. Seeing themselves as Dubai’s fashion vanguard, they are daring enough to lead the way in terms of designer names. And so Isabel Marant, Phillip Lim, Raquel Allegra, Proenza Schouler, Oscar de la Renta, Giambattista Valli, Victoria Beckham, Erdem, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe, Alexander
Wang and Monica Vinader are the boutique’s drawing cards. They also stock several of these labels’ more affordable secondary lines, like Étoile by Isabel Marant, T by Alexander Wang and Paul & Joe Sister. In total the portfolio includes an impressive 200 labels. As they appeal to a globetrotting clientele, the team from Boutique 1 also runs a well-stocked online shop. In their dedicated studio on the first floor of the
store, stylists, photographers and online specialists showcase the newly arrived styles for the internet. In addition to the architecturally impressive store in Jumeirah there is also another equally large branch at the Mall of the Emirates. The small fashion empire also has shops in Abu Dhabi and Beirut. And a store on Sloane Street in London will be opening soon.
COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL COMPTOIR 102 102 Jumeirah Beach Road Jumeirah 1 Dubai T +971 (0)4 3854555 OPENING HOURS Mon – Sun Café 7:30 am – 9 pm Store 8:30 am – 9 pm
COMPTOIR102.COM BRANDS
COMPTOIR 102 Emma Sawko and Alexandra de Montaudouin share the same destiny. Both from France, they met in 2011 after following their partners to Dubai – and neither of them fell in love with the place to begin with. The city on the southeast coast of the Persian Gulf seemed to offer nothing that the two ladies loved so much about their native France: understated design, casual fashion, filigree jewellery, vegan food. Basically the opposite of opu-
lence and ostentatiously flaunted luxury, which seems to be the prevailing style in Dubai. But, as so often is the case, necessity is the mother of invention and led to the two ladies teaming up and developing a successful business model. Upon entering Comptoir 102 you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Europe or California. With its laid-back hippie vibe, the store, which is full of nooks and crannies, and its adjoining restaurant, could just as
well be located on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice, L.A., but is actually housed in a single-storey building on the busy Jumeirah Beach Road. Collections by Isabel Marant and Raquel Allegra and bags by Jérôme Dreyfuss complement each other perfectly, rounded off by homeware, porcelain and selected food items. And as Comptoir 102’s vegan cuisine is proving just as popular as its clothing range, a second terrace with bamboo
roof has been added behind the building. Healthy meals are served here for lunch and dinner, but make sure you leave plenty of room for the homemade vegan cheesecake. Just as appealing as the sweet treats on the menu is the range of jewellery Alexandra and Emma have put together: according to French Vogue, the world’s best jewellery selection in a concept store.
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Airborne Design, Alia Mouzannar, Astier de Villatte, Be Parisian, BePoles, Caravane, Choux a la Creme, Chuk Palu, Cooperative de Creation, Delphine Pariente, Golden Goose, HTC Trading Company, India Mahdavi, Jerome Dreyfuss, Mizensir, Mr Boho, Nada Debs, Only Noa, Raquel Allegra, Swildens, Tooshie, Tributo, Vanessa de Jaegher
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BRANDS 0770, Andrea Jia Pei Li, Andy Wolf, Anne Sofie Madsen, Balmung, Bintthani, Chalayan, Charlie Design, Consistence, Exocet, Feng Chen Wang, Gabriella Ingram, Gabs, Gareth Pugh, Hellen van Rees, Henrik Vibskov, HF Boutique, Iris van Herpen, Jae Woo Lee, Kaibosh, KBT Concept, KTZ, Maison Margiela MM6, Majesty Black, Oh! By Kopenhagen Fur, Ping He, Ready to Fish by Ilja, Reemami, Solid Gray, Sylvio Giardina, The Cartel, Tom Zauke, Vibe Harsloef, Zofie Angelic, Zoran Dobric
THE CARTEL 6 Alserkal Avenue Al Quoz 1, Street 17 Dubai T +971 (0)4 3884341 OPENING HOURS Sat – Thurs 10 am – 8 pm
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THE CARTEL
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Shopping is a major pastime in Dubai, but it’s very different here than in other places. Most of the city’s districts seem to have been designed from scratch at the architect’s drawing board – there are few truly organically grown areas. But authentic hotspots with a special past do exist if you look hard enough. A good example is Alserkal Avenue, a compound dominated by huge warehouses in the industrial area Al Quoz. Although it doesn’t
WWW.THECARTEL.ME
look too inviting at first glance, some of the best galleries in the city are hidden here behind the mostly windowless façades of a disused marble factory and in the recently added extension buildings. Not to mention one of the most spectacular fashion shops in the million-strong metropolis, tucked away behind an inconspicuous entrance. To enter the hallowed turf of The Cartel, you have to cross a large hall before reaching the graphic-
influenced designer store with its strictly black and white colour scheme. Individualistic asymmetrically arranged cabinets provide a separate niche for every collection. The wide staircase leads up to the gallery of the spacious location. A mix of European and Arabic lines, enriched by a few American and Asian brands, awaits a clientele of bold fashionistas. And even if black and white also prevail when it comes to the collections,
the look propagated here is very avant-garde. In their own words, they sell wearable art, which fits in nicely with the offer of the neighbouring art dealers. The brains behind the store, May Barber and Peter Richweisz, even go as far as to speak of a symbiosis of art and fashion, reflected in the items on display, the décor and even the event line-up. Fashion film screenings, exhibitions and presentations are regularly on the agenda at The Cartel.
COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL ZAYAN THE LABEL The Galleria Mall, Shop 10 Al Wasl Road Jumeirah 1 Dubai T +971 (0)4 3440104 OPENING HOURS
IN ADDITION TO HER ROLE AS CREATIVE
Mon – Sun 9am – 11pm
DIRECTOR AND
ZAYANTHELABEL.COM
HEAD BUYER FOR S*UCE, SHE ALSO DEVELOPED HER OWN COLLECTION: ZAYAN THE LABEL
Even if malls aren’t necessarily everyone’s cup of tea and, especially among young Europeans, certainly aren’t regarded as a guarantee for the ultimate shopping pleasure, there’s absolutely no getting around them in Dubai. But the indoor shopping halls to be found here don’t really have much in common with the boring shopping arcades and centres we know in the West. Collections and concepts are carefully vetted by the retail space owners, and even the décor is subject to high quality standards. You’ll
find the city’s best and most exclusive stores in these malls, of which the modestly-sized Galleria Mall is one of the best. It’s also home to Zayan The Label, a womenswear line designed by Zayan Ghandour. The Lebanese designer dipped her toe in the fashion pool with a T-shirt collection, before taking the plunge into retail in 2004 as co-founder of multi-brand boutique S*uce. In addition to her role as creative director and head buyer for S*uce, she also developed her own collection: Zayan The Label,
which she presented for the first time in 2011 at Paris Fashion Week. With resounding success. She has now opened her first stand-alone store for Zayan and also sells the line abroad. The designer’s biggest fan base is in Japan, but she’s also represented with her fashion in Hong Kong, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Italy, the USA, China, Egypt and even in Kazakhstan and Taiwan. The Lebanese designer’s latest collection, which once again reflects her laissez-faire style, is influenced by Jane Birkin’s seem-
ingly effortless elegance in the 1970s. But with her shift dresses, asymmetric flounce tops that reveal a glimpse of the shoulder, and the wide, knee-length circle skirts, Zayan Ghandour is referencing several decades all at once. Not to mention her eclectic fabric mix, combining androgynous stripes with fresh white broderie anglaise and pearl appliqués with transparent PVC: bold statements that make Zayan The Label really stand out from the crowd.
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ZAYAN THE LABEL
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL
300 DESIGNER COLLECTIONS
LEVEL SHOE DISTRICT The Dubai Mall, Ground Floor Financial Centre Road Downtown Dubai Dubai T +971 800 5383573
ARE STOCKED – BASICALLY EVERY BRAND WORTH
OPENING HOURS Mon – Sun 10am – 11pm WWW.LEVELSHOEDISTRICT.COM
MENTIONING IN THE WESTERN WORLD.
BRANDS Acne Studios, Adidas, Aquazurra Firenze, Balenciaga, Balmain, Asics, Brian Atwood, Burberry, Chanel, Comme des Garçons, Converse, Dries van Noten, Etro, Fred Perry, Geox, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Havaianas, Hunter, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Lacoste, Maison Margiela, Manolo Blahnik, Nike, N°21, Onitsuka Tiger, Puma, Reebok, Superga, Timberland UGG
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LEVEL SHOE DISTRICT
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They certainly don’t hold back on superlatives in the United Arab Emirates. And if it’s bigger and better you’re looking for, you should head to The Dubai Mall, which is worth a trip for its size alone. The mall boasts 1200 shops on a vast area of 350,000 m², plus an artificial ice rink of Olympic dimensions, a gigantic aquarium filled with sharks, crocodiles, penguins and giant spider crabs and a multiplex cinema with 22 screens – to name just a few of the consumer temple’s major draws. And so the 9000 m²
Level Shoe District on the ground floor, the city’s most spectacular shoe shop, seems almost moderately sized in comparison. But with its overwhelming offer, you could easily spend half a day here. 300 designer collections are stocked – basically every brand worth mentioning in the Western world. All the big labels have their own shops within the ‘District’, the rest, divided into ladies’ and men’s shoes, can be found under the categories ‘Designer’, ‘Contemporary’, ‘Classic’ and ‘Trend’. Gold cages are used
as displays for high heels and a mountain landscape has been recreated for the sneakers. The small bridal shoe cabinet has an equally impressive range: here brides-to-be will find several iconic models, designed especially for Level Shoe District by names like Bionda Castana, Gianvito Rossi and Aennis Eunis, based on their best-selling styles. A bridal consultant is on hand to help customers find the perfect shoe for their special day. And you can discuss whether you really want to fork out 15,000
euros (which is how much a pair embellished with Arabian pearls by Nicholas Kirkwood would set you back) over a mint tea with your friends in the adjoining Vogue Café – which at Level Shoe District is proudly extolled as the only one of its kind in the Middle East. Any footwear problems are solved by the in-house experts at The Cobbler, while aching feet are pampered to perfection at the Margaret Dabbs Sole Lounge, the store’s exclusive foot spa.
COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL
DUBAI RETAIL +
S*UCE ROCKS S*uce, pronounced ‘Sauce’, is a multibrand store concept that has won numerous awards with its total of nine shops in Dubai – and is anything but mainstream, both in terms of the range on offer and the stores’ interior design. Their three womenswear shops as well as the casualwear store S*uce in the Hood, the beachwear branch S*uce On Sea, the kids’ concept Saucette and The Design Shop with a wide range of home interior items and gadgets are all equally unusual. If it’s contemporary jewellery you’re looking for, you should head to S*uce Rocks. Whether 18-carat gold, diamond-encrusted or set with precious stones: the selection filling the display cabinets in the lavishly furnished store is edgy and sleek – precisely the opposite of the majority of what’s offered in the city’s famous Arabian gold souks. SAUCEROCKS.COM
BAMBAH & THE ZOO A brother and sister team united by their love of fashion: Maha and Hussein Abdul Rasheed from Egypt have set up shop with their two-in-one concept store on Jumeirah Beach Road opposite the city’s zoo. While Hussein sells street fashion for men, fun gadgets and design items at The Zoo, Maha offers her own, redcarpet-esque ladies’ collection at Bambah, as a nod to the Hollywood of the 1950s and 60s. And The Zoo is also home to Guz and Bam, two chatterbox parrots who keep the customers entertained with their non-stop squawking.
From online business to bricksand-mortar store – this retail trend so prevalent in Europe is also making its mark on Dubai’s shopping scene. Upclassics, a very young online platform for high-quality streetwear, was quick to recognise the sign of the times and opened a pop-up store in A4, the cool coworking space, health food café and event location at the Alserkal Avenue compound in industrial area Al Quoz. Upclassics is the brainchild of Benjamin Hagen from Germany, who ensures a steady flow of top clothing products to the Middle East with labels like Carhartt, Edwin and I Love Ugly.
BAMBAH.COM
WWW.UPCLASSICS.COM
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UPCLASSICS × A4 SPACE
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL +
DUBAI RETAIL +
ALSERKAL AVENUE
BOXPARK Although shopping in Dubai is very much focused around the big malls, increasing numbers of open-air shopping options are also popping up. The so-called Walks can be described as outdoor malls, with the retail spaces allocated to handpicked tenants. In addition to Jumeirah Beach Walk, Citywalk 1 and the recently added Citywalk 2, the Boxpark is a prime example of this kind of outdoor shopping mile. Based on its eponymous London role model, shipping containers are incorporated into the architecture of the stores, with fashion as well as food on offer. The shop by Finnish label Marimekko and its adjoining café are proving particularly popular.
At first glance, the industrial quarter Al Quoz doesn’t have anything too exciting to offer: large factories and warehouses basking in the sunshine on the grid-like roads. You have to know where to look if you want to discover the art and design scene flourishing here – and that’s in the gallery quarter, Alserkal Avenue. Due to the abundance of vacant commercial lots combining cheap rents with plenty of space and light, young Arab artists, design studios and several high-profile galleries have moved into the complex, which is named after an influential family of art collectors. The Ayyam Gallery started the ball rolling in 2008, joined in 2009 by Carbon 12 Dubai, followed in 2010 by Isabelle van den Eynde with her art space. Alserkal Avenue is currently home to a total of 25 galleries and plans are being made to expand the area by a third of the size.
BOXPARK.AE ALSERKALAVENUE.AE
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CAFÉ RIDER
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Murtaza Moulvi, the owner of Café Rider, is a qualified investment banker, so he knows what goes into running a successful business. His business acumen also helped him leave the financial world behind and make his passion for retro motorcycles his profession. Around three years ago Moulvi opened up a meeting place for like-minded people: a blend of workshop and café, with its own integrated store. Working with a network of American and British retailers, he sources particularly rare and goodlooking bikes for his customers. But even if you’re already the proud owner of a motorbike, you’re still welcome at Café Rider. The predominantly male clientele comes here to sip the excellent coffee, while in the workshop next door, only separated from the main room by a large pane of glass, the coveted two-wheelers are given a thorough check by the team of experts and buffed and shined to make them even more alluring. CAFE-RIDER.COM
Three cousins are the brains behind the O’ de Rose concept store: Dania from Beirut, who loves entertaining and creating impressive settings for her guests, Nadine, an art and design lover who moved to Dubai from New York, and Mimi from London, who is passionate about vintage fabrics. What they all have in common is their penchant for anything handcrafted – whether fashion or interior design. And so the range stocked by O’ de Rose is colourful and vibrant, combining folklorist elements with exotic influences, without sacrificing its modern edge. And the fact that the three cousins stock products made by disadvantaged and handicapped people makes them even more likeable.
COOL CITIES / DUBAI — RETAIL +
O’ DE ROSE
WWW.O-DEROSE.COM
RIPE FOOD MARKET Dubai is one of the most international cities in the world: over 90 percent of the people living here aren’t from the United Arab Emirates. Such a mix of nationalities is bound to leave its mark, especially when it comes to food. Tasty proof of this cultural diversity is the Ripe Food Market. Taking place once a week on Fridays (the equivalent of our Sunday), the market feels like a big potluck dinner, to which every guest brings their own local speciality. Pão de queijo from Brazil, French eclairs, German bread and Lebanese falafel jostle mouthwateringly for attention. A little culinary tour around the world! WWW.RIPEME.COM/RIPE-MARKET
The casual, laidback style that sunny Los Angeles is so renowned for also has a growing fan base in sweltering Dubai. That might just be down to the Egyptian Alia Korayem who studied in L.A. for six years and spotted the gap in the market on her return to the Middle East. She started out with womenswear in 2012, before adding menswear to her repertoire one year later. Alia certainly stands out with her philosophy that fashion should always be accessible and affordable, not something Dubai, with its wealth of exclusive boutiques, is exactly known for. Buoyed by the positive response, Alia is now thinking about upping the ante by branching out into vintage and homeware. WWW.WESTLABOUTIQUE.COM
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WEST L.A. BOUTIQUE
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DUBAI SERVICE
PARK HYATT DUBAI PO Box 2822 Dubai T +971 (0)4 6021234 DUBAI.PARK.HYATT.COM
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PARK HYATT DUBAI
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Luxury hotels are ten a penny in Dubai, but one of them really stands out from the crowd. Its waterfront location alone, right next to Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club, makes the Park Hyatt Dubai such an oasis in the middle of the desert. But it’s not only the five-star establishment’s green surroundings, paradise-like tranquillity and stunning views that make this hotel worth its weight in gold. The list of amenities is long and includes spacious rooms all with
open-plan bathrooms, terraces or balconies, views of the Creek, a stunning 25-metre pool, which is the perfect place to wind down after a long day in the dusty desert or inside air-conditioned malls, plus the adjoining spa, voted one of the best in the world by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler. And on top of all that, the Park Hyatt’s restaurants also enjoy their very own legendary reputation in Dubai. Traiteur, the fine dining restaurant serving up Michelin-star-worthy French
cuisine under German management, has been voted the city’s best brunch location for several years in a row by Time Out Dubai. It should be pointed out that brunch in the Emirates, traditionally on Fridays (the first day of the weekend here), is a whole different ball game. Compared to our more modest Western variety, a Dubai brunch is more like an opulent banquet fit for a king. Starting at 12 o’clock, it is basically the perfect excuse for an entire afternoon of eating and
drinking. The fine foods conjured up by the chefs of Traiteur would delight the taste buds of the most discerning Emir. Asian food connoisseurs will be spoilt for choice at The Thai Kitchen, while Café Arabesque serves up local cuisine. Dubai might have a lot of exciting activities to offer, but you may have to plan in some extra time to ensure you can make the most of this exceptional hotel.
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Upon setting foot in this spa, you’ll feel like you’ve been whisked off to the land of One Thousand and One Nights. With its white walls and blue domes, the architecture of the luxury relaxation retreat adjoining the Park Hyatt Dubai is a respectful nod to the Moorish culture. Even if you’re not staying in the hotel next door you can still come to the Amara Spa for a headto-toe pampering session. The journey begins with a refreshing rain shower in the small private garden of your spa suite. This is followed by a rose petal hand and foot ritual enveloping you in the heady Oriental scents. The
THE OASIS accompanying music is then selected to contribute to your state of deep relaxation in the following hour or hours, depending on your budget and needs. And only then does the actual massage begin. You can choose from a menu of different invigorating or tension-releasing treatments. The ceremony will end on the soft recliners in Amara’s intimate courtyard, over tea and dried fruits. And if they can’t quite bring themselves to leave just yet, spa visitors can choose to spend the rest of the day by the pool of the adjoining Park Hyatt.
Even if the USA has long since held the crown as the land of unlimited opportunities, the nighon impossible feats achieved in the United Arab Emirates in the last few years should certainly make it a candidate for the title. The highest tower, the biggest mall, the most exclusive hotel: these are just the most obvious and best-known superlatives that Dubai has to offer. And no less impressive is the only manmade deep-sea harbour in the nearby port town of Jebel Ali and the already completed artificial islands in the Persian Gulf. In Dubai they seem to have a knack of defying nature, the laws of physics
and all the elements, making this new recreational pleasure seem almost modest in comparison: The Oasis is a man-made group of lakes, approximately an hour’s drive away from the city centre. In the middle of the desert a truly idyllic retreat has been created where those fleeing the city can spend the day and, if they wish, also the night. Beautiful campsites by the water, peace and quiet and the fantastic night skies all entice city dwellers to set up camp here. And because these are the only bodies of water far and wide, The Oasis has become a real paradise for birds in no time at all.
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AMARA SPA
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DUBAI SERVICE
ONE & ONLY THE PALM 101 DINING LOUNGE AND BAR
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THE FARM
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Another oasis just outside of Dubai is The Farm, a health and slow food restaurant on the edge of the beautifully landscaped and vast Al Barari estate, which is owned by one single family: the Zaals. To begin with, The Farm was reserved exclusively for the residents of the 200 villas built on the grounds, but it opened its doors to the public in 2013. The indoor and outdoor venue, designed by Lesley Zaal, seats 125 diners. Despite the exclusiv-
ity of the surroundings, it’s the simple dishes that enjoy the most popularity here. Organic salmon fillet with garlic puree and saffron sauce and the large salads are signature dishes at The Farm. And the name is no coincidence: many of the ingredients used in the kitchen are grown on their own farm. WWW.THEFARMDUBAI.COM
The best way to get to the 101 Dining Lounge and Bar is by motorboat – or, even better, with your own yacht. The restaurant, located on The Palm and part of the One&Only The Palm Hotel with its own yacht harbour, is connected with the Jetty Bar of its sister hotel One&Only Royal Mirage on the mainland by a shuttle service, providing stunning views of Dubai’s dazzling skyline on the way. And guests of the 101 Dining Lounge and Bar
can enjoy these panoramic views all evening. Light Mediterranean dishes, from tapas to freshly caught seafood, are the specialities of the house. Most evenings a DJ will provide the perfect musical accompaniment, with jazz on Fridays and Latin music on Saturdays. WWW.ONEANDONLYRESORTS.COM
COOL CITIES / DUBAI — SERVICE
In not one but three live kitchens (wok, grill and noodle), diners at the Park Hyatt Hotel’s awardwinning restaurant The Thai Kitchen can observe Thai chefs preparing dishes from their native country while salivating at the mouth-watering aromas of fresh ingredients filling the air. Inspired by Bangkok’s bustling street food stands, the chefs here put their own twist on classics from the south-east Asian gastro scene. Of course diners
ALMAZ BY MOMO are best advised to order as many of the little dishes as possible and work their way through the menu. But don’t forget to leave room for the delicious desserts! And if you want to recreate the menu at home, you can also find out the secrets of Thai cuisine in the restaurant’s small masterclass groups. DUBAI.PARK.HYATT.COM
Mourad Mazouz, aka Momo, is a visionary of the gastro scene. In his younger years the native Algerian lived in Paris where he opened his first restaurant. Momo later expanded to London and then in 2006 to the United Arab Emirates. With Almaz by Momo in Dubai, Mazouz has succeeded in combining wonderfully colourful interior design with fantastic cuisine and creating a North African atmosphere that is as authentic as it is contem-
porary. Another major boon of the location is its fantastic sea views. Almaz by Momo is located in The Beach shopping complex on Jumeirah Beach Road and is flanked by a little store selling African-inspired home interior accessories. MOMORESTO.COM
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THE THAI KITCHEN
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI TALKS – NISREEN SHOCAIR, VIRGIN MEGASTORE
DUBAI TALKS NISREEN SHOCAIR She is regarded as one of the top 100 most influential women in the Middle East. As the President of Virgin Megastore Middle East & North Africa, Nisreen Shocair has succeeded in breathing new life into the media retail chain that fell into decline in the rest of the Western world. Nisreen, who is in her early 40s, immediately comes across as refreshing, eloquent and humorous when we meet at her office in the Media One Tower. Effortlessly we fall into an entertaining conversation about the melting pot of Dubai, new social trends in the Middle East and the attributes of female managers.
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NISREEN SHOCAIR
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Born in 1973, the mother of three teenage children has Syrian roots, but grew up in Lagos, Nigeria “with two TV channels”, as she says. Her brothers attended a boarding school in England and provided her with a regular supply of records and British music magazines, which is how Nisreen discovered her passion for pop culture at such a young age. She then went on to study at the University of North Texas and had a part-time job in a video rental store. Her career path then took her to Sony Music, Bertelsmann and Hearst Entertainment and alongside her work she also completed a degree in Business Administration and Management at the London Business School and Columbia University in New York. In 2006 Nisreen Shocair was appointed President of Virgin Megastore Middle East & North Africa. Forbes Middle East ranked her number 34 of the ‘100 Most Powerful Arab Business Women’ in 2015.
You manage a huge media retail chain. But it’s not just media that’s on sale at the Virgin Megastores, you also sell fashion and beauty products. And by doing so we are touching on an important trend – the interplay of technology and fashion. We are very conscious of how the young generation is doing things. Fashion, technology, entertainment – this triad, this new movement is known as FATE. And it’s a trend I love. As well as fashion, it also includes art, and these things enrich each other wonderfully. People like Beyoncé, Rihanna and Rita Ora are showing us how it’s done: they all stand for the blending of fashion, music and entertainment. Just like David Bowie, incidentally, who was way ahead of his time. 70 percent of our customers are under 30 and really enthusiastic about technology. Our customers also go to Alserkal Avenue to discover the new art trends. But they’re critical of the big fashion labels and what their parents propagate and wear.
Nisreen Shocair is in constant dialogue with her young target group.
They don’t want their homes to look ‘Instagram-ready’ all the time or their hairstyles to always look perfectly styled for the next selfie. This is a different generation of consumers. I was in your store in The Dubai Mall yesterday and I found its portfolio very inspiring. How do you find the balance between your personal style and your customers’ tastes? It’s a fine line, a constant balancing act. Will the customers tell me what they want or do I know what they like and suggest products to them that they still know nothing about? The market is changing. Until about two years ago our customers were much less informed. Back then they would ask, “What do you have on offer?” Or “What’s in the magazines right now?” Now they’re saying, “If everyone has it, then I don’t want it”. People are looking for niche products. These days we’re communicating more with opinion leaders and individual consumers in order to discover their needs. But as a retailer you have to signalise that you’re out there and noticing everything
that’s going on, otherwise you lose your credibility with the target group. Do you believe that a store like Virgin Megastore can influence culture and society? Yes, I do. Culture is our raison d’être. If you’re under 30, no, actually even under 20, you can come to us and experience an incredibly wide range of culture. That may be normal in Europe but in the Middle East it’s not. The culture here is defined by stipulations like ‘Don’t touch!’ or ‘No photos!’ You’re not allowed to share things here. Everyone’s scared that their ideas will be stolen. We convey exactly the opposite to our consumers: you can stay as long as you want at our store. You can drink a coffee, browse the films and books or try out the make-up. I spend a lot of time with our customers. For many of them it’s one of the three places where they spend the most time, after their family homes and school. They come to our stores three times a week and spend an average of 45 minutes there. I don’t think any other retailer can boast such statis-
COOL CITIES / DUBAI TALKS – NISREEN SHOCAIR, VIRGIN MEGASTORE
VIRGIN MEGASTORE Back in 1970 the well-known British business magnate Sir Richard Branson, today a millionaire, launched his first Virgin company, which started out as a mail-order record business. In 1972 he then opened a chain of record stores, including on Oxford Street in London, which marked the beginning of the Virgin Megastore empire. In the following years and decades, the chain grew to several hundred stores. But in the late 2000s all of their branches were closed. With one big exception: the Middle East, where the media chain still exists to this day. And that’s not all: since Nisreen Shocair has been on board as president of the company, a mere CD and DVD retailer has developed into a lifestyle destination with a wide-ranging offer of everything from books and multimedia down to fashion and beauty products.
During our interview Nisreen proved herself to be a businesswoman with a clearly defined philosophy.
on the safe side, you miss out on so much!
You’ve been in the business for ten years now. What was your biggest success to date? The fact that we have survived lots of changes in the business is a real accomplishment for me. Virgin Megastore started out as a store selling just CDs and DVDs. My biggest success is transforming Virgin Megastore into a lifestyle destination. It also makes me proud and happy that we are supporting the local community, for example the art scene. And that we can provide a lot of jobs as well.
What, in your opinion, is the most important attribute of a manager? The most important thing is to genuinely take care of your staff. Due to a lack of time, most managers lose the connection to their employees, but in retail in particular this connection is essential. I’ve worked in retail myself, I’ve folded plenty of Tshirts in my time and still want to know how our customers are reacting to the products. So I really make an effort with the boys and girls working on the shop floor. I know their names and where they come from, what they’re interested in.
And what mistakes have you made? Lots. We persevered with CDs and DVDs for far too long, and were too late in jumping on the e-commerce bandwagon. With certain products we mistimed things: sometimes we were too early and sometimes too late. I think genuine success needs ten years. We have a macro-management. We want our people to try things out and learn from their mistakes. If you try to always be
Do you do your job differently to how a man would? Definitely! And that’s a good thing. But of course this personable way of communicating with people I just mentioned isn’t gender-specific. I hate generalisations, but I believe that women think things through in more detail. And they spend more time finding out about people. Women
spend more time trying to solve problems. As a woman I have brought a ‘listening ear’ to the organisation, I have flattened the hierarchies and tried to reinforce the togetherness of the different cultures and nationalities. I’ve lived on five continents and would never dream of judging people based on where they’re from. And I’ve also made the design of the store very femalefriendly, I’ve literally given it curves. I didn’t want it to look like a man’s den. It’s light, inviting and not quite symmetrical. And the sales assistants look freshly showered and smart – all things that women pay attention to. You’ve travelled a lot in your life. What’s so special about Dubai? The fact that it’s so international. When I was working in New York for the media firm Hearst, everyone asked me: “Why do you want to leave New York? Everyone wants to come here!” And then I realised they were wrong. It’s mainly South Americans who come to New York, but it’s not the centre of the world. London might be considered the centre of Europe, but Dubai is a
port of call for so many nationalities. That’s why I enjoy being here so much. I can partake in ‘armchair travelling’ every single day. I totally agree with you: Dubai is the ultimate melting pot, even more so than New York and London. Dubai is currently experiencing such a change! The big European brands are eventually going to start turning their backs on the city. The under-30s couldn’t care a less about Gucci, Prada and Dior. The culture of smaller markets is playing an immense role, it’s all about authenticity. This can be seen in every area of life. The kids don’t want logos anymore! They don’t want to listen to the Top 40 on the radio; they prefer to tune into independent internet radio or indie bands on Spotify and watch independent series on Netflix. My daughter is 15 so I’m experiencing it all first-hand. I think it’s a very exciting development. Thank you very much for being so open with us and providing us with lots of interesting insights.
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tics. People can consume in our stores without actually buying.
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI TALKS – SCHWITZKE & PARTNER
DUBAI TALKS KARL SCHWITZKE Schwitzke & Partner take a very cosmopolitan approach. The German architecture and design office for retail and store concepts has long since proven that. With a staff of 180 from 23 nations, they run offices in Krakow and Paris. But by setting up a branch in Dubai in 2008, Schwitzke & Partner opened up new worlds that would enable future projects of a scope that they could never have dreamt possible. After all, only the sky’s the limit in Dubai. In an interview, the company’s founder Karl Schwitzke explained the distinctions of the Arabian market and why trends from here make their way over to Germany, as well as letting us in on why the whole mall principle works so well in Dubai.
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KARL SCHWITZKE
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Born in 1955, the progeny of a family of eleven kicked off his career with a carpenter’s apprenticeship. He later studied design and interior design in Kaiserslautern, embarking on a quest for international experience after he graduated. He headed to the USA where he worked on projects for the State Department, Black & Decker and Prudential Life Insurance in his role working at Associated Space Design in Atlanta. Upon his return to Germany he first worked at HPP, before becoming department head for Esprit where he contributed to fundamentally defining the brand’s image. In 1989 he launched his own business: Schwitzke & Partner. Karl Schwitzke lives near Düsseldorf with his family.
Schwitzke has had its own office in Dubai since 2008. How did that come about? We worked on the first projects back in 2003 from our office in Germany – with Gerry Weber who was expanding in Dubai with a local partner. And for our first big project here, for a local company on an area of 3500 m² in the Ibn Battuta Mall, we were nominated as Designer of the Year. So we couldn’t have asked for a better start. Store design in Dubai is of a very high quality. Investments here are a lot more generous than in western Europe. Does that have an effect on your business? Of course there’s a lot of money in circulation, but it’s not wasted. And people here expect their investments to pay off after
two or three years. To begin with we thought we’d work more for European companies, but we almost all of our customers are local. That’s because the malls set such high standards here. When a local company wants to set up a shop but doesn’t really have a good store concept, they’ll simply be turned down. The Dubai Mall and The Mall of the Emirates, for example, have three-year waiting lists. There is a lot of stiff competition in the retail sector here, stiffer than in Europe. For a lot of malls in Dubai, Sharjah and Muscat we were responsible for the quality assurance as consultants. That means we checked and approved the clients’ designs so of course we got to know all of the major players on the market here. And we were able to acquire quite a few local clients of our own too.
international brands with local franchise partners.
That means Schwitzke also acts as a door opener for lots of brands? Yes, definitely. When we have the opportunity. We’ve already connected a large number of
Are there any distinctions you have observed in Dubai? Sure, for example the Arabs don’t like small stores crammed full of products. They like going shopping with the whole fam-
Dubai is the land of superlatives, especially in terms of architecture. Can you carry out different, bigger projects here than you can elsewhere? Brands and retailers here work in a much more marketingoriented way than in Germany. Everyone is on a quest for a competitive edge and wants to offer something unique. Everything has to have a huge communicative power. And they like experimenting. The projects here are often a lot bigger. For Al Habib we just designed a mall with 230,000 m² of retail space in Jeddah, as part of a competition for Emaar we developed a mall with 500,000 m² plus two hotels. You won’t find those kind of projects in Germany right now.
COOL CITIES / DUBAI TALKS – SCHWITZKE & PARTNER
ily and don’t want to have to squeeze past product stands. We have to take that into consideration. An interesting aspect. Are there any other points you have to consider? Yes, wooden flooring, for example, is regarded as unhygienic over here. And the changing rooms have to be spacious and ensure privacy wherever possible and make space for family or friends to join you. So lots of space is definitely regarded as a luxury in Dubai. And shopping is a sociable occasion! We have learnt from this and also started building larger changing rooms in stores in Germany. After all, lots of women trust their best friend more than they would a sales assistant, for example when it comes to trying on underwear. What role does it play for your local clients that you come from Germany? Local clients here are competing in the international arena. So of course the knowledge
we can contribute is an added bonus. Plus the fact that there aren’t too many Germans in Dubai and we have a good standing here. Most Europeans who do business here come from Great Britain, followed by the USA. Are there any shopfitting trends that develop here and then make their way over to Europe or America? Or vice versa? No, I think it works both ways. The fact that white is coming back into fashion again, for example, is more apparent in Dubai than it is in Germany. But there are always local trends too. In Germany a concrete wall might be seen as cool, in China it would be regarded as unfinished. And even industrial chic, which proved so popular in Germany for so many years, doesn’t necessarily work elsewhere. Do you think it’s time to wave goodbye to shabby chic? The overall look is going to be cleaner and lighter again, but also more improvised. I not only think that industrial chic is on
the brink of being replaced, but also the trend of replicating living spaces. Museum or gallery-like scenarios that place the product in the spotlight are going to play an important role.
open, also because there’s so much competition for the consumers’ attention. They’re also more inclined to accept digital solutions and link them with stationary retail offers.
That fits in well with the whole curating concept that lots of concept stores are proclaiming. Yes, and it’s also reflected in the merchandise density. In Germany we’re very clearly seeing a decrease. 28 items per square metre is no longer a benchmark. These days the goods have to be better explained and presented. The times of tempting customers with a huge offer are definitely over. After all, there’s already an endless variety on the internet. So having a good selection is going to become increasingly important in stationary retail.
A while ago you participated in a tender for a big mall project and then went on to win it. How far are you with the planning? It is indeed a huge project: Creek Harbour District, a mall with an area of 500,000 m². We were hired for both the architecture and the interior design. But the project is still in the planning phase, and we’re still waiting to see when, how and whether it will actually go ahead. At the end of the day it’s always Sheikh Maktoum who makes the decision. We’re also building for the ruling family in Sharjah and have sat at a table with Dr. Sheikh Sultan bin Mohammad Al Qasimi for the meetings. Dubai isn’t that big, you end up rubbing shoulders with a lot of important people.
Is the market in the Emirates more progressive? Is it easier to turn new ideas into a reality in Dubai? I think that people are constantly on the lookout for new ideas in Dubai. Everyone is very
You’re represented in Krakow, Berlin, Paris, Düsseldorf and
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Karl Schwitzke and his colleagues Markus Käss and Abdullah Al Alawy in an interview with Ilona Marx at the Schwitzke office in Dubai.
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COOL CITIES / DUBAI TALKS – SCHWITZKE & PARTNER
Dubai, and you also have a consultant in London. What are your most important markets? Germany is still our most important market, although it’s difficult at the moment because there aren’t any big serial orders being assigned right now. There is a lot of uncertainty. Just shoving goods into a store doesn’t work anymore. Customers have become more discerning, and the retail trade has to buy in a more target-oriented way. In some parts there aren’t even any functioning buying or merchandising departments anymore. I also believe that many retailers could work a lot more efficiently and more customer-oriented. I still see a lot of potential there. The list of your awards is long. What else would you like to achieve? What would make you particularly proud? We started with shop-inshop and franchise and were very much involved in the development of vertical distribution. Eight years ago we completely redesigned Berlin department store KaDeWe. Our projects have become bigger and more
demanding and complex. We are currently designing more and more shopping centres. As retail specialists, we have a clear advantage over ‘normal’ architects, who tend to approach a project from a town planning perspective. After all, with a shopping centre it’s always about establishing a brand and positively establishing it among the customers. We develop the brand story, the name and the logo. They are exciting projects that challenge us on all levels and ultimately also make us proud and happy when we see that the visitors like what they see and enjoy using the end result. My other aim is to continue expanding our company on an international level. At the end of the day we need to have an office on every continent if we want to compete with the big guys. Thank you very much for the interview.
Abdullah Al Alawy (left) is familiar with the practices of the Emiratis – which proves extremely valuable during negotiations with local building developers.
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SCHWITZKE & PARTNER
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Karl Schwitzke founded the architecture and design office for retail and store concepts Schwitzke & Partner in Düsseldorf in 1989. The breakthrough came a mere year later when they managed to win Adidas as a client. In 1991, Karl’s brother Klaus, who is four years his junior and had also studied design and interior design, joined the managing board of directors. In 2006, Schwitzke GmbH was established and the internationalisation of the company really took off. In addition to their Düsseldorf-based headquarters, the specialist retail marketers now have offices in Dubai (since 2008) and Krakow (since 2011), as well as Berlin (since 2012) and Paris (since 2014). They also have a consultant based in London. The service offer begins with branding, strategic brand consultation and corporate communication with Schwitzke Graphics. Schwitzke & Partner takes care of design development, architecture and planning. The project management and turnkey implementation is coordinated by Schwitzke Project. Clients can also choose from individual modules tailored to their individual needs. Schwitzke & Partner’s portfolio of clients includes Esprit, Hallhuber and Tommy Hilfiger as well as Ludwig Beck, Breuninger, KaDeWe, Deutsche Bank, Media Markt, Douglas and Giorgio Armani. The repertoire of the award-winning company meanwhile also includes shopping centres. They recently won the 2015 Commercial Interior Design Award in the Retail category and Middle East Interior Design of the Year for their concept for the Virgin Megastore at the Yas Mall in Abu Dhabi. With Markus and Beate Schwitzke, the second generation has already joined the ranks of the family business.
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BRANDS & BRAINS — NORWEGIAN RAIN, BERGEN, NORWAY 65 — 03/2016 60
Bespoke tailor and designer T-Michael is known for his conceptual approach and love of handcrafted details.
BRANDS & BRAINS — NORWEGIAN RAIN, BERGEN, NORWAY
INTERVIEW ILONA MARX PHOTOS PETER LORENZ
NORWEGIAN RAIN
Come rain or shine business partner Alexander Helle. And 17 years of experience in the field have certainly paid off in the waterproof sector: with his brand Norwegian Rain he combines his passion for stylish tailormade clothing with a desire for ecological manufacturing methods. But even if Germany can compete in terms of rainfall — the city of Halle an der Saale racks up the same number of centimetres — one thing’s for sure: the most stylish rainwear definitely comes from Norway.
You’re originally from Ghana. How do you cope with the extreme weather differences between Ghana and Bergen? Yes, Ghana’s average temperature is about 28 degrees and Bergen is a lot colder, but between my time in Ghana and my moving to Norway, I lived in the UK so the weather is about the same. That means I had time to acclimatise before moving to Bergen. And even though it rains and it’s cold, it doesn’t feel as cold and wet because it’s a small town surrounded by mountains where you can escape to if necessary. If you live in a big city and it’s wet, it’s like there is no escape. And in a sense the weather encourages a more creative scene.
buttons on a jacket, things like that, the reasons aren’t just random. They’re there because they once had a function and we kept them. But at the same time I think tailoring has become very stagnant: once you’ve seen one suit, you’ve seen them all. Now my approach is slightly different: “What do I want tailoring to be for me?” I love suits but I don’t want to wear them the way my dad used to, I want to wear suits my way. So it’s based on my concept of what a suit should be. It’s a uniform, but it shouldn’t be so rigid that you can’t wear it every day and it shouldn’t be too casual so you can wear it to nice places. It’s the perfect mix of both and I create that conceptual approach based on my style and my inner self.
Why did you choose Bergen when you moved away from London? Well, my ex-wife is Norwegian. I met her in London so it was just like, “Yeah, off to Norway!” It was perfect, a real love story, it was fantastic. So it didn’t bother me that it was raining in Bergen, I only realised that it was rainy after three or four years. But you started out as a tailor in London? I was working in clothing in London, but I didn’t get my formal training as a tailor until I arrived in Norway. You say your approach towards tailoring is conceptual. Can you explain what you mean by that? When I started tailoring I was really interested in the traditional heritage of it, which I love because it’s very clearly structured, but multi-layered. Because every piece of clothing starts from one place and then evolves over time into something else. In terms of questions like why we have
It’s obvious, especially at Pitti, that menswear has changed dramatically over the last few years. Do you think this is a trend that will continue, or do you think general interest will decline again because it’s all getting a bit too dressy? I think that like everything else it’s cyclical, it changes with time. But the thing about clothing today is that people dress up, not because they just want to wear something, they dress to reflect something on the inside. Men aren’t going to just stop wearing tailored clothing because it’s not in season. If it’s cut right, it will look good and have good proportions, we know that today. Men will always be interested in clothing, but in different ways. And even if you think they are not dressing up, they spend a lot of time trying to look like they are. There are a lot of menswear stores opening at the moment, in Berlin in particular. I think the Japanese influ-
NORWEGIAN RAIN Alexander Helle and T-Michael, the duo behind Norwegian Rain, have always had an affinity for Japan. And destiny may well have played a role because after the company’s launch in 2008 their first orders did actually come from Tokyo. Based on the principles of ‘dugnad’ (an old Norwegian term for people getting together and voluntarily working towards a common goal that benefits the community, the neighbourhood or an individual) the label won the Award for Design Excellence from the Norwegian Design Council in 2012, among other accolades. In 2010 Vogue Italia named them Talented Newcomer. And in 2014 they were nominated for the International Woolmark Prize. Norwegian Rain has three flagship stores to date: one in Oslo, one in the original location of Bergen and the third and first stand-alone store outside of Norway has just opened its doors in London. In Germany they are stocked by around ten retailers, internationally over 100.
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In the Norwegian city of Bergen it rains two out of three days: the city has one of the highest rainfalls in Europe. And of all places this is the city that T-Michael, who originally hails from sunny Ghana, has chosen as his home — all for the sake of love. But he has certainly made the best of the inclement weather. Already acquainted with custom tailoring from his time working in London, after arriving in Bergen he launched his business in rainproof outdoor fashion together with his
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ence is very strong as far as menswear is concerned — what do you think? Oh yes, I think it’s still very strong because of the Japanese approach. Approach is everything. They wear clothing, but they think very carefully before they put everything together. Before, Japanese people would put on their tailored jacket, raw denim jeans, shoes from Odin and Grenson, things that don’t seem to match. But for them it makes sense because all those brands are good in their own way and they put them together to create their own style. We didn’t do that before in the West, we just bought the suit and wore it. But we see them and think, “Oh wow, that’s crazy!” But then you take a second glance and you think, “Oh, I can do that too”. That’s influenced the way we dress today, and given us more knowledge and more pride in the way we dress ourselves as well. It’s very liberating actually. How does Japan influence Norwegian Rain? When it comes to Norwegian Rain, the Japanese influence is certainly there but more as a reflection of Japanese sensibility. You get rid of anything that’s unnecessary, and keep and enhance things that are good. You don’t throw the old away, you reinvent it. And you use Japanese fabrics? Yes, which is cool because it seems like we planned it. But it was just an obvious choice because there is no one on the market who could match the Japanese in terms of quality, waterproofing, breathability and texture. Nice coincidence!
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You also said you use recycled materials? Yes, we do, we use some recycled polyesters. Some of the fabrics aren’t recycled, but in the process of making the fabric we save 80% of the CO2 emissions, so there is always an eco-profile in the fabrics we use from Japan and it’s very important for what we do at Norwegian Rain. Because we work with the weather, we work with nature and everything has to have a nice feel and a nice sort of cycle to it. No major footprint. But we don’t use that as a selling point because we believe we have so many other things we can sell the product on. I think people get fed up of being sold the whole ‘eco’ thing, but sure, it’s nice for people to know that that their coat is also eco-friendly.
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And you say you blur the boundaries between tailoring and ready to wear. What does that mean? Don’t you do made-to-measure anymore? Well, when I started out as a tailor I waited for my customers, they came in and I took measurements and drafted the pattern, did the whole tailoring process for them. That’s fantastic because that’s what I like doing, but it can get boring after a while because everyone wants the same two-button navy blue suit. So I thought about how to make collections based on my tailoring skills and to be able to create what I like, you know? So, I would make this jacket using the traditional methods, but slightly different, and hang it in the store. And people would come and buy it. So then I realised that I can actually mix the two — the readyto-wear and the tailoring in one piece.
When people come to you in Bergen, what do they find? They can find a ready-made jacket, or I can make adjustments or take measurements to make a new suit or jacket or whatever. And it’s so important not to just make dress-up suits. But also suits that you can wear every day because I think a suit is a uniform, you should wear it every day. And that is the challenge between what I think as a man and what other men think — they don’t wear suits every day because they think it looks too dressed up. So how do I get them to wear suits every day without feeling like that? So you’re still making your own collection T-Michael, as well as working on Norwegian Rain and Art Comes First. Art Comes First is not my project. It’s by Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh. I was involved in the Art Comes First concept. Part of that was The Coal project, a collective where they bring in different people to do different projects. You also made some fashion films for the ASVOFF festival by Diane Pernet? Yes, making films is my little hobby, I love it. Up to now I’ve made five short conceptual films. You could call them fashion films, but I don’t make them to sell products — they are their own entity, in a way. But of course I do the styling, the set design and everything, but it’s more of a surrealistic abstract film. Maybe you understand it, maybe you don’t, but I love it so that’s why I do it. I talked about this with Diane Pernet as well, the medium has so much potential. There is so much more to fashion than just fashion shows. But getting back to Norwegian Rain: what do you have in the pipeline for the label? It started because we live on the west coast of Norway where it rains non-stop for three days and it gets wet, wet, wet. Now we have to find a solution that is more elegant than just covering you in the rain. It’s about having a concept behind it and saying: we want to look good every day, we want to fit in every day, but we don’t want to get wet. We create clothing that would look like any other clothing, but it has all the technical protection that you need to stay dry — and we want to continue this concept with different garments. We made the shoes with Grenson — a good pair of shoes, but they have the added bonus of keeping you dry and the same goes for our bags and capes. And we want to take this idea and apply it in different areas. If we can make you waterproof, we will go for it! That’s the future for Norwegian Rain. You’ve travelled far and wide — what’s your favourite fashion place in the world? Where are you most inspired? Well that’s a very difficult question, but I think Paris is a good place. The thing is that Paris is not fashionable per se, it’s more that there is something in Paris that makes you go: “Okay, that’s cool”. But my absolute favourite is Tokyo - nothing beats it. It’s such a busy place but it never feels busy. As soon as you arrive, you get a real zen feeling. Thank you for the interview.
“I CREATE ELECTRIFYING MATERIALS AND PUT THEIR FUTURE IN THE HANDS OF OTHER DESIGNERS.” Cécile Feilchenfeldt Textile Artisan
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BRANDS & BRAINS — GAASTRA
TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN
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Beyond the sea
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For companies wishing to achieve longterm success on the market, the only currency that really counts is credibility. But heritage-based fashion brands in particular tend to sacrifice their roots getting too caught up in the throes of modernisation, losing their personality in the process. Dutch lifestyle brand Gaastra is showing us how to master this difficult balancing act: instead of
forgetting their origins over the course of a whole century, the brand has succeeded in celebrating them, venturing into both safe and new waters. Now, for the first time, the company will be sponsoring one of the largest sailing sports events in the world this summer, the Kiel Week regatta, securing the exclusive clothing rights in the process.
But let’s go back to the beginnings in 1897. Exactly 119 years ago Douwe Gaastra, who was only 22 years old, founded his sail-making business – for those times unusually innovative – in the Dutch city of Sneek, a real seafaring city. And by doing so he laid the foundations for one of the most successful Dutch clothing labels. But back then there wasn’t a hint of fashion in sight. Not until the seventies and eighties of the 20th century, after 18 years of exclusive sail manufacturing, did Gaastra start to make its name with clothing – as a professional windsurfing brand – but with less of a focus on style than functionality. The fashion factor only followed in 1996 when Gaastra dared to set foot on dry land, so to speak, launching its two clothing lines in Europe: the performance sailing series ‘Gaastra Pro’ and the modern casual collection ‘Gaastra Sportswear’ with maritime references. Since then the brand, with its large logo lettering, bright colours and nautical look, has represented fashion designed in Amsterdam. And its roots? Firmly anchored in the brand DNA – starting with the logo: an outline of the water gate of Sneek.
million water sports visitors, no other event is as huge as Kiel Week in Germany.
From 2000 the brand really caught the wind in its sails when Gaastra joined the McGregor Fashion Group, which was founded in 1993. Now the turnover amounts to around 100 million euros annually – generated by 40 stores, 15 factory outlets and the online trade. But the most recent coup in their rise to success is the Kiel Week sponsoring deal. As a long-time partner of numerous sailing events, Gaastra is never far from any regattas: they have sponsored Les Voiles d’Antibes in France, Les Voiles de Saint Barth in the Caribbean and the Copa del Rey in Mallorca. With 3500 sailors from 60 nations and over 3.5
“Gaastra represents highly functional and attractive fashion with a clear dedication to sailing sports,” says Oliver Frielingsdorf, managing director for DACH & International. “Our nautical DNA will be communicated to the visitors at Kiel Week.” The limited capsule collection as well as a wellrounded brand experience with maritime flair will certainly see to that. With “Kieler Woche” (Kiel Week) emblazoned on the items along with the date, the collection pieces are clearly dedicated to the unique sailing event from 18th until 26th June. As well as the collection, Gaastra will also be represented with stores and presentation areas at four different locations during the event in order to further boost brand awareness. But despite the fact that they are holding on tightly to their roots, the brand always has an eye on the future. While they’ve been ensuring a good positioning in the Benelux countries and Germany over the last few years, their sights are now firmly set on the Scandinavian market. One step on this path will be the opening of the new flagship stores in Stockholm and Oslo. Above all, the connection to their shared maritime history should help Gaastra with its expansion plans in that part of the world. Less maritimeoriented, but also attractive because of its size, is Eastern Europe. The company has already been active in Russia for quite a while, with the United Kingdom soon to follow. What the future holds? In the words of Douwe Gaastra: “You don’t ask the sea any questions, you just dress for the occasion.”
A NEW: TUES –THUR 26 – 28 JUL 2016
GDS-ONLINE.COM
BRANDS & BRAINS – RETAIL ROUND TABLE
WE ARE IN A CONSTANT STATE OF FLUX, A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION.
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MARCO LANOWY
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INTERVIEW ILONA MARX PHOTOS NIKOLAUS GRÜNWALD
RE TA IL RO U ND TA B LE
German Retail: Quo Vadis? retail and store design experts for talks in Stuttgart. Where is the retail trade positioned – and what direction should it be heading in? What role does the “human” factor play? And how can bricks-andmortar retail and online business be mutually beneficial?
Christoph Stelzer, co-owner of the retail specialist DFrost, Marco Lanowy, head of retail, sales and marketing at Alberto, and Stephan Kalbfell, owner of the avant-garde fashion store Ave, all sat down at the large teakwood table at the DFrost headquarters in the heart of Stuttgart. Many thanks to DFrost for their kind hospitality!
and perhaps the portfolio exude less fashion competence, you need to express your competence in other ways. This midfield is struggling and losing their identity. The lack of appreciation for employees is also a problem. Standardised chain stores often have personnel who are only employed on a temporary basis, who only marginally identify with the brand and the company and are not equipped to deal with the tasks at hand. Staff need to keep the sales floor clean, make sales, set up window displays, and are often unsupervised all day. It’s not surprising when these people are lacking in motivation. Marco Lanowy: For me one thing is clear: shoppers want to be pleasantly surprised when they go into the stores, they want to discover new things. At that point it is almost irrelevant what the store looks like, as long as it’s authentic and run from an inner conviction. For example we made the decision not to distribute our products via Zalando. With a decision like this I have to take a holistic approach when looking at my profile and think about my perspectives, as well as asking fundamental questions about my strategies. As a family-run business we have been working cooperatively with retailers for over 90 years, always with an open ear and with an eye to the future. In 2004 we went online, without knowing that this would be such a major topic. We installed our own online strategies, functioning as brand support, in order to support the retail trade. This has led to clients often coming into the store to buy items that they’ve seen online. Christoph Stelzer: I don’t think what the chains are doing is sustainable for the future. They are selling through an increasing number of channels – via Amazon, Zalando and stationary retail. Obviously they also have a higher turnover, but nevertheless they are losing relevant turnover in their bricks-and-mortar stores, where they have the highest costs. Basically that’s a form of cannibalisation.
In the age of online shopping, the demands placed on the retail trade have grown substantially. How are you dealing with this? Stephan Kalbfell: Yes, there are quite a few challenges. Customers want more service and a larger selection of goods than ever before and they also have higher expectations from sales staff. We need to react quickly to desires and it’s a mistake to try and compete with the internet, where de facto everything is faster and cheaper – but not necessarily better. I have a good range and employees who really know their stuff. You can buy a T-shirt and a pair of trousers anywhere, but no one will be able to combine the two in the way that we do. Our regular customers know that. Marco Lanowy: We mustn’t forget that Germany is the most densely populated retail market in all of Europe. Everybody wants to get in on it. The result is that we are in a constant state of flux, a process of elimination. The market is evolving. In my opinion there are many great retailers, who are facing up to the changes, taking them on with passion and commitment and using them to their own advantage. Christoph, you’re an expert when it comes to the shopping experience. What would you say customers want and demand? Christoph Stelzer: We have a relatively varied retail scene nowadays. Whether we’re talking about independent retailers, standardised chain stores, or major brands: the tasks are aligned with the trade sector and have different focuses. It’s all about developing a clear profile and knowing one’s clients as well as possible. In a store like Ave, I know I’m in the best possible hands because the staff have a high level of fashion expertise. And then there are retail channels that are very price-driven, the mainstream. Depending on where you shop, the customer needs and expects a different kind of shopping experience. If the staff
Stephan, how are you sharpening Ave’s profile? Stephan Kalbfell: I choose brands that are aligned with my concept – and continue to do so. That gives me credibility. It really annoys me when others copy by sourcing the same brands as me in their stores, but then soon realise that they actually don’t fit into their concept at all. Of course I could stock Gucci, Prada and Saint Laurent, but that just wouldn’t be me.
CHRISTOPH STELZER / DFROST Christoph Stelzer laid the foundations for his career by studying architecture at the HFT (Stuttgart Technology University of Applied Sciences), where he graduated in 2001. During his studies he worked as a freelance editor for architectural magazine Deutsche Bauzeitung and after graduating he received an assistant professorship for architecture and design at the HFT. In 2004 he followed the call of business and began working as key account manager and project manager for the retail specialists Liganova. In 2008 Christoph Stelzer founded his own company together with Fabian Stelzer and Nadine Frommer: the retail identity agency DFROST GmbH & Co. KG. As managing director, he is responsible for account development. COMPANY HISTORY / DFROST Founded in June 2008, the agency for visual marketing and retail design has been based at its current location in the heart of Stuttgart since 2010. Since 2013 DFROST has employed around a team of 50, who work for international clients from the fashion and lifestyle sector like Babor, Breuninger, Leica, IWC Schaffhausen, Swarovski, Tommy Hilfiger and Victorinox. DFROST’s core business is turning the Point of Sale into the Point of Inspiration. With their sights always set on this goal, the retail marketing specialists work in an interdisciplinary way, offering tailor-made solutions in the fields of window display, visual merchandising, retail architecture, POS events and visual communications.
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A round table of experts joined forces to talk about the future perspectives of the retail trade. The current situation of German retail, the challenges it has to face, the expectations of customers and suppliers: these were the topics of our round table talks where we brought together
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if I stop producing a certain product, then the retailer has to accept that. At the same time that means that even as a manufacturer you want to slow things down at some point. Only then do you have the opportunity to bring something new to the market or into stores. Even the verticals have recognised this: Zara is currently going for limited editions in a big way. Marco Lanowy: The same goes for the sneaker sector. Sneakers are launched online, and are sold out within three hours. If you’re in the store on the same day in the morning between 9:45 and 10:00 am, you might be in luck and snap up a limited pair. It seems that people thrive on having the feeling everything is about to run out.
STEPHAN KALBFELL / AVE Stephan Kalbfell got his foot in the door of the fashion industry when he joined the label Gin Tonic where he was assistant director and worked in product management between 1992 and 1994. Kalbfell then worked for the brands Mecca and Suspect as product manager. After gaining so much life and business experience, he then founded Ave, a store for fashion and lifestyle in 1996 together with his business partner Werner Klenk, which remains influential on Stuttgart’s retail scene to this day.
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Business partners Stephan Kalbfell and Werner Klenk started out in 1996 with the goal of bringing international fashion to Stuttgart and integrating timeless design into the German retail landscape. 20 years later Ave still represents a vision of combining avant-garde fashion with quality, also with regard to sustainability. They are happy to combine high-fashion for him and her with exciting newcomer labels. And so it’s no surprise that Ave was the first store in Germany in the early 2000s to stock Isabel Marant. Labels like Acne, Vanessa Bruno and Stephan Schneider were introduced to Stuttgart early on by Kalbfell and Klenk. Shoes, accessories and perfume as well as a selection of magazines round off the offer, the consistent concept of which represents the foundation of their success.
Marco Lanowy: Whichever side of the business you’re on, retail or industry: you’re always going to have the ‘truffle pig’ – people who are courageous enough to sniff out new paths. Alberto is and was a trouser specialist, but at present 70% of our range consists of denim because we’ve continued to develop the product and added stretch to the jeans. And then we went one step further and developed jeans for cyclists, which we will be launching at a bike trade fair. And suddenly we are getting great feedback from a completely new community. Do you see yourself as a ‘truffle pig’, Stephan? Is the role of retailer sometimes a slightly thankless task? Stephan Kalbfell: No, I enjoy it, and we still make a good living from our business. But it’s not uncommon for me to experience the following: I stop stocking a brand because I don’t consider it to be exciting enough for our concept, and then all the large retailers pounce on it and end up selling huge amounts of it. I am a specialist with a small store and I’d like to provide my clients with an innovative range of clothing. As soon as it starts heading in a mainstream direction, I’m the wrong person to talk to. And that brings me to another important topic: price reductions. Why reduce the price of a basic white shirt that would sell perfectly well next season? I simply don’t understand why retailers regularly slash their prices. Christoph Stelzer: It’s a constant merry-go-round of clearance sales. One sale chases the next, the market is caught in that spiral. The mid-season sale is the latest result of this trend. Stephan Kalbfell: We now receive lists from Isabel Marant or Alexander Wang that specify the date from which we are permitted to reduce the sales price on their products in Germany. Apparently these regulations are now necessary. Christoph Stelzer: In your part of the industry it’s a lot easier to go your own way. You have a clear profile and stand out from other retailers. In the broader segment among the verticals and the chains everything is very market-driven, and the customer have become accustomed to always buying during sales. That’s a system that will at some point run itself to death. It is really frightening how many people love hunting down the bargains. Marco Lanowy: But we could put a stop to that. 40% of our turnover is generated via our warehouse business. And
We already mentioned the topic of online retail. Is a prerequisite that everyone has an online shop these days? How do you see things developing? Christoph Stelzer: I get the impression that we are moving further in the direction of omni channels. But online shops alone are not enough these days. I keep coming to the conclusion that individual brands and companies don’t understand how to utilise and combine these channels effectively. From the customer’s point of view, they’re not really bothered which channel they buy in, whether it’s online or from bricks-and-mortar stores – they simply want to be able to buy quickly.
CONSUMERS WANT TO BUY IMMEDIATELY, PAY IMMEDIATELY AND HAVE THE ITEM DELIVERED TO THEIR HOME AS FAST AS POSSIBLE. CHRISTOPH STELZER
Stephan Kalbfell: I’m always being asked by my customers whether or not my turnover is suffering due to online retail. The fact is: before the advent of the internet, the range of choices was incredibly limited. For example I had blue trousers stocked, but the client wanted a black pair. We managed to find a compromise and he went home with a dark blue pair of trousers. Nowadays that is unthinkable: either the client orders the trousers in his desired colour himself online, or I call around other stores to see if I can get them for him. So I am also the one who introduces the client to other portals, risking losing a client to the online business. There should be some kind of a system established whereby retailers could get a share of the profits from online portals. After all, their mark-up is up to 300%. They could certainly part with some of that – which would have a positive effect on both retail channels, online and offline. There would be less competition, and more cooperation. You would refer clients to each other and it would be mutually beneficial, also in terms of profit. In that way everybody would be treated as equals.
Following his commercial apprenticeship in retail and a degree in business administration and marketing, Marco Lanowy worked at Kaufhof Warenhaus AG and Lust for Life before joining Alberto in 2005. As shareholding manager, responsible for retail, sales and marketing, the 47-year-old runs the Mönchengladbach-based business together with Georg Walendy and Jürgen Schmiedel, who is responsible for finances and human resources.
But won’t that continue to change dynamically and shift? Marco Lanowy: Whether it’s two thirds or even just half: we are talking here about the future of retail and not the future of online retail. In the physical retail world you can have sensory experiences, discover the proverbial truffle and make surprising discoveries. I also think that there is a great longing on the part of the customers to have a well-stocked store. After all it’s incredibly time-consuming to put together a great outfit on the internet. Stephan Kalbfell: What I feel is missing in retail at the moment is inspiration. That applies to the customers – at least most of them. We currently have a major case of mouse-grey fashion. It’s generally being ignored because a lot of people don’t know what to do with colour. If we didn’t encourage customers to wear this colour, it would never sell. I am one of the few retailers who also always tries on the items myself. Christoph Stelzer: Basically, online retail has forced stationary retail to become faster, better and more efficient. If brands could figure out how to develop their potential with the help of sales staff who sell their products with style and character, and if they also developed a sensible price structure, I think that would be good basis for the future survival of stationary retail. Of course you can sell cheaper without bricks-and-mortar because you have lower overheads. But that has no future. I believe that the potential in online retail is reaching its limits. Too many retailers are beginning to realise that they simply can’t communicate their products in the same way online as they can on the shop floor. I would really like to see a change in direction, especially when it comes to the brands, in order to ensure stationary retail has a better chance.
Stephan Kalbfell: I would like to see less discount wars, more innovation by retailers and manufacturers and closer cooperation. I think it’s good when manufacturers provide inspiration to retailers in terms of how best to sell the products. And we, as retailers, should in turn give the manufacturers more feedback on the sale of their products. Are there any positive examples here in Germany or in Europe? Christoph Stelzer: It’s difficult to answer that in one sentence. Everybody has their own methods. Stores like Breuninger, for example, score extra points for their events. They attracted an immense amount of traffic with their last event and knew it would be popular with their clientele and inspire them. What do you see as the most exciting development at the moment, Christoph? Christoph Stelzer: I think we’re standing at a crossroads. The standardised chain stores will have a hard time because they are becoming increasingly homogenous. But of course they will continue to survive because they copy others and adapt their concepts. In doing so they neglect to define their own profile and go their own way, forcing themselves to be even more price-driven and streamlined, i.e. smaller. At the same time a new purchasing awareness will prevail. The topic of sustainability will become more and more important. People will increasingly make the decision not to go to the large shopping malls, but to smaller local retailers instead. The winners in the game will be the competent retailers who can provide their customers with inspiration they won’t find elsewhere.
COMPANY HISTORY / ALBERTO In 1922 Dr. Albert Dormanns founded the Dormanns trouser factory in the vacant rooms of the cloth factory of his deceased grandfather. The first items he manufactured were made using return stock, sample patterns and bought-in surplus fabrics. During the Second World War Dormanns continued manufacturing on a small scale. In 1950 the company owner then concentrated on making men’s trousers. After Dormanns’ death his daughter Marie-Lore Walendy inherited the business and handed over the reins to her husband Rolf. In 1977 their son Georg Walendy joined the company as an office clerk, helping the company gain a reputation as specialists during the 1980s under the new brand name Alberto. Now that Anna and Philipp Walendy have also joined the team, the family business is meanwhile in its fourth generation. The menswear collection is complemented by the Alberto Woman and Alberto Golf lines. Denim plays a central role in both the men’s and women’s collections.
Christoph, Marco and Stephan, thank you for sharing your opinions with us.
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Christoph Stelzer: In my opinion, globalisation leads us to a situation where the end consumer really does expect constant availability of goods and therefore is also much more likely to buy on impulse. Consumers want to buy immediately, pay immediately and have the item delivered to their home as fast as possible, at the very latest the next morning. That’s hard for a retailer: we order the item for the client, telling the client they can pick it up in three days. Stephan Kalbfell: What about this option? The client comes into my store, doesn’t find the item they need, so I order it online. He pays me and the next morning I have the item delivered to their door. Christoph Stelzer: Wouldn’t it be possible to install a B2B portal where stationary retailers have access to stock? At wholesale prices? Marco Lanowy: I think we are restricting ourselves too much to the topic of online retail. Online retail only constitutes a third of the textile market – so we still have two thirds of sales taking place on the sales floor, we mustn’t forget that.
BRANDS & BRAINS – RETAIL ROUND TABLE
MARCO LANOWY / ALBERTO
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Vicky — HUMANOID
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GARETH PUGH
GARETH PUGH DEREK LAM
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RICK OWENS
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Audrey — J. LINDEBERG
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HAIDER ACKERMANN
MIU MIU DRIES VAN NOTEN
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VALENTINO
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Lykke — DR. DENIM
MUST BUYS
CHLOÉ
BLUMARINE JOSEPH
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HOUSE OF HOLLAND
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Top DIMITRI Jeans CLOSED Shoes & bag MM6
Smoke and
Mirrors Photography Ansgar Sollmann / www.ansgarsollmann.de Styling Nina Petters / Ballsaal Styling assistant Florentine SchlĂźter Hair & make-up Jamal Musa Model Jade McSorley / Core Management
Jacket ASHISH Skirt AIGNER Shoes MM6
Top AIGNER Jacket CHEAP MONDAY Skirt BLUMARINE Shoes MM6
Jacket Augustin Teboul Jeans Kings of Indigo Shoes MM6
Blouson DIMITRI
Top & jeans Paul & Joe Jacket Closed Shoes MM6
Top Ashish Jacket Levi’s x Bobby Kolade Jeans Cheap Monday
Photography Frauke Fischer Styling Adelaida Cue BĹ r Nina Klein Agency Hair & make-up Melanie Schoene Blossom Management Model Anna Emilia M4 Models
KREUZBERG
Blouse Julian Zigerli Gloves Karl Lagerfeld
Jacket William Fan Necklace Katja Aufleger
Top & skirt Odeeh Blouse BLK DNM Bag Coccinelle Socks Intimissimi Shoes Kennel & Schmenger Brooch Cheap Monday
Dress Steinrohner
Turtleneck American Apparel T-shirt Karl Lagerfeld Dress Odeeh Necklace Katja AuĂ&#x;eger Shoes Navyboot
Top Hausach Trousers Belstaff
Overall William Fan MenÕs top Ralph Lauren Socks American Apparel Shoes Kennel & Schmenger
Jacket Bobby Kolade Glasses Andy Wolf
Top Monki Sleeveless jacket Velvet Circus Jeans Cheap Monday Shoes Dr. Martens
Coat Belstaff Shorts Liu Jo Socks American Apparel Sneakers Nike
Blouse Herr von Eden Dress Paul Smith Jacket Reality Studio Jacket William Fan Bag Lapaporter Necklace Katja Aufleger Jewellery Koshikira
Blouse Herr von Eden Top & skirt Jil Sander Navy Vest Karl Lagerfeld Necklace Katja AuĂ&#x;eger
Top Weekday Jacket Augustin Teboul
Le Chat Noir
Shirt Mark Jacobs via Matches Fashion Skirt Bally Socks Falke Shoes Max Mara
Dress Mulberry Shoes Sportmax
Dress Cos Tights Falke Shoes Sportmax Earrings Jane Kønig
Shirt Mulberry Dress Ganni Ring Jane Kønig
Top Weekday Trousers & shoes Sportmax
Dress Cos Earrings Jane Kønig
Photography Valeria Mitelman www.valeriamitelman.com Wildfox Running Styling Venessa Arnold www.venessaarnold.com Hair & make-up Karina Berg Bigoudi, using products by Chanel and Bumble and Bumble Model Lera Iconic Management
T-shirt Sandro Trousers & shoes Max Mara Socks Falke
Outfit Tiger of Sweden
Angel Heart
Dress Malaikaraiss Trousers Edited Shoes Tory Burch
Blouse Sportmax Trousers Stine Goya Défilé Boots Vintage
Blouse Stine Goya Trousers Sportmax
Waistcoat Pallas Paris Overall Acne Studios Shoes Tory Burch
Photographer Kathrin Makowski Stylist Steffi Schwaiger Hair Yumiko Hikage Make-up Meyloo Boo Model Barbara c/o Silent Paris
Outfit Pallas Paris
TEXTILES & TRENDS – ORHAN BAYKAN, BAYKANLAR TEXTILE 65 — 03/2016 110
TEXT FREDERICKE WINKLER PHOTOS BAYKANLAR
O r h a n B a y k a n, B a y k a n l a r Te x t i l e
The Game Changer
While brands are evolving into retailers, producers are branching out into design. With these new developments in mind, I met up with Orhan Baykan, general manager of Baykanlar Textile, because if anyone has something to say on the topic it’s him. As a clothing manufacturer he develops 5000 styles a year with a design
team of 35. How and why? Because he can streamline the process – from the drawing board to the finished product – to a mere five weeks in total. Perhaps also because Baykanlar operates internationally and knows the international trends. An insight into what happens when the supply chain is turned on its head…
Barcelona, 25 degrees. The who’s who of the international denim industry are gathered here on the Plaça d’Espanya for Denim Première Vision, to fill the order books of some and the shelves of others. In the midst of it all is the tradeshow booth of Baykanlar, which, compared to many of the other exhibitors, looks more like a showroom of a European fashion brand. Organised according to colour and styles, the clothing manufacturing expert demonstrates examples of a diverse number of denim trends you may have seen recently on the mood boards of some of the leading fashion forecasters. In my interview with Orhan Baykan I tried to get to the bottom of what I had already suspected and that was already confirmed by the general presence of the manufacturer. Namely that manufacturing is by no means the mere production side of things, but rather the place where fashion is made.
Orhan Baykan: In Turkey everything is vertical in the factories. You can source fabrics, accessories, trims: all together. And you can find these different areas easily. It’s a big advantage having innovators on the fabric side as well as on the manufacturing side. When our partners produce the fabric, we sit down together with our key customers and make the collection right away. After three days everything is ready. That’s the advantage of the country. In doing so it’s not the customer telling us what they want. We give them the latest trends, the design, the fits, the ideas and the concepts. This is also why we are here at this fair. As you can see we showcase different kinds of concepts and we don’t just sell trousers. We sell design. We also tell the customers how to explain the products to their customers. We write stories for all the jeans we are making.
Orhan, you took part in our Denim Round Table in Istanbul, where we talked a lot about Turkey as a manufacturing country for denim products. Today what interests me is where you see Baykanlar’s role on the fashion scene as a whole. What makes you different to other manufacturers?
Why do you think you know the market needs better than your customers? Orhan Baykan: We don’t just focus on one country but work with lots of customers in different countries. And all the trends in those countries are different. So our design teams research various markets and gain a good overall impression of fashion. That’s why we are sometimes one step ahead. So is this how you differ? By doing fashion? Orhan Baykan: Not really. Everybody else is doing fashion as well. But we do it first. We sniff out the trends quickly. Our customers come to us and ask: What’s the next trend? It’s a good sign. Some brands don’t have the budget to travel around like we do. And they don’t have as much time. They come to our booth once, see our idea of what might be in tomorrow, and next time
A
TEXTILES & TRENDS – ORHAN BAYKAN, BAYKANLAR TEXTILE Baykanlar at Denim Première Vision
they come back and say: “You were right! So, tell me, what’s coming next?” But it’s not only about our design. It’s also about the quality of our partners, fabric suppliers, etc.All this culminates in a story you can tell the end consumer. And we create this story for them. So they use our expertise to their advantage and rely on what we recommend as a product.
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Is it cost-effective to work like that? It seems to be a big investment. Orhan Baykan: This is the future. Otherwise you won’t stand out and will end up getting left behind. Baykanlar’s main customers are fast-fashion brands, like the Inditex Group, which are at the forefront of the fashion business right now. Nobody can catch up with them. And we have enough service, speed and creativity to feed them with fast fashion. That’s what makes our position so stable. But on the other hand, due to the size of our company we are limited in the efforts of development. We take very precise decisions about where to invest and what customers are a good fit for us. We prefer having long-term relationships by seasonal customers. We want to collaborate instead of making fast money.
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Several hours later I am invited to the opening of the new Baykanlar showroom on one of Barcelona’s many broad avenidas. Awaiting me there is a large period apartment with decorative stucco ceilings, panelled doors and opulent wooden floors. Balconies and a small conservatory open up to reveal views onto the coastal city’s typical courtyards and pretty gardens. In addition to conference rooms, a showroom and comfortable living room there are also guest rooms for clients who have had a longer journey. The rooms are the quintessence of luxury and tradition. No doubt a conscious contrast to the collections hanging on the
Orhan Baykan, general manager of Baykanlar at the opening party of the showroom in Barcelona
racks, which are ultra-modern, as bold as brass and technologically advanced. Orhan welcomes me at the door and introduces me to his two older brothers, with whom he founded the company in 1998. Back then, he was just 18 years old. His brothers decided to develop a jeans manufacturing company out of the textile business so he got on board. Looking at all three brothers, it’s easy to suspect that Orhan must have been the enfant terrible of the family because, in contrast to his siblings, who seem to fit effortlessly into the showroom in their smart suits, Orhan is wearing a black Martin Margiela T-shirt, jogging pants and Premiata sneakers. We are joined by Banu Yenici, owner of the agency YBONE TEXTILE CONSULTANCY who advises Baykanlar on their marketing activities. Banu, why did Baykanlar open this showroom? Banu Yenici: You can no longer expect the client to come to you, you need to be localised. Not everyone wants to go to Istanbul and it helps the company to create a cultural proximity. Baykanlar is clearly demonstrating that they feel at home in the world of their clients. What made the business decide on Barcelona for their first location outside Turkey? Banu Yenici: Their most important clients come from Spain, and Barcelona is a strategically useful location. So it makes sense to start here. But if it turns out to be better elsewhere, they would move accordingly. The big advantage of Baykanlar is that due to its size and culture, it is extremely flexible and adaptive on the market. Baykanlar has a great nose for trends and market movements and, combined with its attitude and courage, is fast to adapt. They are all typical game changers.
Another game changer is the new rules on the market. The brands do the marketing and control the retail, the manufacturers develop the products and control their design. This separation of tasks poses a very central question, namely one of originality. If you outsource the design, aren’t you then also handing over responsibility for the visionary power of the product? Is the collection not the core, the very soul of a fashion company? With what and, above all, with whom should the end consumer identify, if not the designer and their vision of the world? With the marketing campaign? Or the manufacturer, about whom, until now, they know little or nothing? In times of generative design, which orientates itself on turnover figures and fashion sell-by dates dangerously close to those of a yoghurt, this kind of questioning isn’t optional, but more a simple fact. That’s because the soul was already lost years ago, when we handed design control over to the product developers: the designer was no longer the boss, but instead reduced to little more than a representative. In this sense, companies like Baykanlar are less a new symptom of an ailing industry, but rather a sign of its returning health. With them the love of the raw materials and craftsmanship are making a return to the design and therefore also the clothing. The independent implementation of ideas naturally requires a certain amount of humility. And that is a big ask, which companies like Baykanlar are demanding, whether consciously or simply by nature. But the truly new rule of the game, demonstrated in the case of Baykanlar, is not the fact that a garment manufacturer dares to say the obvious: it’s the self-confidence with which they dare to demand a collaborative supply chain: longterm cooperation, a division of tasks according to skill set instead of financial hierarchies, eye-to-eye communication and loud enough to ensure the end consumer understands it too. And that, dear reader, is not only game changing. It’s mind-shifting.
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30 AUG - 01 SEP 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L
F A B R I C
M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T.C O M
T R A D E
F A I R
TEN QUESTIONS FOR – MARCO GÖTZ, CEO DRYKORN
TEN QUESTIONS FOR:
1 Drykorn’s marketing slogan is ‘for beautiful people’. What’s your definition of beauty? We want to make our customers more self-assured and happy with their own appearance. It’s all about the beauty that comes from within and is then mirrored in the wearer’s own charisma.
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2 You come from Franken in Germany. Do your roots influence your brand and your style? Here in central Europe we’re certainly easily accessible. The style of the Drykorn team, however, is influenced by a vibrant mix of different nationalities.
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3 Drykorn is well-placed on the German market. Which international markets would you like to expand into? We’re already quite well positioned in central Europe. And we’re currently pursuing new projects in North America and Scandinavia.
Marco Götz CEO OF DRYKORN
4 How and when did you take the step from trousers to a comprehensive collection? It was a long process from specialist provider to comprehensive assortment. It wasn’t until 2005 that we began gradually expanding our product range. Once we were convinced the new segments had matured, and we were excited about them ourselves, we launched them on the market.
5 You once said that it wasn’t money, but inspiring products that were your driving force. What is your favourite product at the moment? All those we are currently optimising or developing from scratch. 6 Your collections are always orientated closely on new trends. Do you see yourself as a trendsetter or trend follower? I’d say it’s a mix of the two. I would tend to define us as “trend selectors”.
7 What can we expect to see from Drykorn in the next five years? More surprising emotion-driven products. 8 Which item in your wardrobe could you not live without? I always find it hard to survive without my white T-shirts. 9 Where do you go to recharge your batteries? My daily routine gives me great pleasure. That’s why I don’t really need a particular place to withdraw to. 10 When you’re not creating fashion… … I’m thinking about creating fashion.
INTERNATIONAL
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FASHION TRADE SHOW
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