TREND REPORT A/W '15 by Julia Harvey

Gender Agender

Exhibitionist: (Creative Direction)

The ‘Exhibitionist’ concerns the consumers at the forefront of one of our generation’s most controversial debates, one where a person’s gender is the focus point. What remains after clothes are disregarded is what is said to define you and the life you choose to lead. Sex and the naked body remains a subject of taboo, yet it is something that drives so many, influencing so much of the world around us. The ‘Exhibitionist’ has abolished ones inhibitions. They no longer yearn for acceptance they want euphoria and they want this in the form of aesthetics which please themselves. No one else. Their intentions are to push the boundaries and challenge perceptions, they are willing to pay the price to achieve this. In an age where brands are constantly pushing the boundaries of equality, Selfridges newest venture of gender neutral floors perfectly embodies how this trend is growing.

fig.1 Lips|Own Image|06.05.15

Optimist

To The Future

fig. 2 Kendall Jenner for Love|Feb ‘15

fig. 3 NYC Posters|Own Image|07.01.14

Provoke

Focus Point

fig. 4 Selfridges Agender|Feb ‘15

Bare

Fur Play:

Fur takes centre stage for A/W 2015, graphic colours, shapes and silhouettes. From outerwear, accessories and shoes, these bold pieces exude wit and opulence all in one go. Sibling goes in with kitsch colourful Menswear whilst Margiela channel their inner inuit giving us a fur shoe, a fabulous transformation of the humble winter boot. As well as physical fur we see digital fur prints, a subtle nod to this re-occuring and bolshy trend. The colour pallette is widened to near unlimited. Contrasting panels of soft minks and rich merlots give a graphic feel to the classic fur coat. Seen here from the brilliant Shrimps.

Colour pallettes seem limitless as flamingo pinks and sherbet greens are seens coating the catwalks. Once ordinarily more associated with Womenswear, gender seems to melt away, focusing on the personality of the garments instead. fig.5 Shrimps Berlin|Own Image|19.01.15

(Creative Direction)

Exhibitionist.

(Print & Graphic)

fig.8 Maison Margiela|Women’s A/W ‘15

fig. 6 Sibling|Men’s A/W ‘15

fig. 7 Premium Berlin|Own Image|19.01.15

Shaggy Doll

Blow

Excentric

Vision

Creme de Menthe

Peep Show:

(Print & Graphic)

Fur Play.

(Menswear)

The Peep Show brings us a brash wace of cheek, quite literally. Following the gender neutrality of our ‘Exhibitionist’ we see an almost showgirl style of menswear coming onto the catwalk, bringing with it all the glamour and intrique of any cabaret show. Gucci saw open lace in opulent jewel tones in their Men and Women show, closing the gap on gender further. Rick Owens created a, quite literal, ‘Peep Show’ showcasing garments with genitalia cut outs, baring all to the front row. It’s these movements on the catwalk which see gender preconceptions disperse and in interest in the form of the human body increase. We see references to the Blitz Kids of the 80’s in this trend, an era where the line between male and female was most definately blurred. A body suit featuring a penis sleeve, created by Montgomery James and famously worn to a supermarket by Leigh Bowery was showcased in the V&A in 2014. Owens’ collection highlights the nostalgia surrounding this style.

fig. 9 Fruit Shoot|Own Image|06.05.15

fig. 13 Rick Owens|Men’s A/W ‘15

fig. 12 Thom Browne|Men’s A/W ‘15

fig. 11 Gucci|Men’s A/W ‘15

fig. 10 Montgomery James Bodysuit V&A|1988

Aphrodisia

Animalism

Hot Flush

Derobe

The Dark Side

Climax: (Visual Merchandising) Visual Merchandising reaches a climax with the most extravagant installations taking place on the windows of our high street. Collaborations are appearing more fequently, with lavish visuals both inside and out. Victoria Beckham joined forces with Andy Hillman to create bewitching, life size foxgloves, filling the windows of her Dover Street store. Windows have always been achance for a brand to display their personality in the most approprately, exxcessive manners. However, we are now seeing this more than ever, brands coming up with new ways to get people to notice their perhaps humble or outrageously luxurious stores.

fig. 14 NYC Lingerie Store|Own Image|09.02.14

(Menswear)

Peep Show.

Desire

Rapture

fig.15 Victoria Beckham x Andy Hillman|Feb â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15

fig. 16 BVGARI NYC|Own Window|10.01.14

Libido

Urge

fig. 17 New York VM|Own Image|10.01.15

Lewd

Climax.

(Visual Merchandising)

References:

Fig. 1 - Own Image, 2015. Lips. [Photograph]. Fig. 2 - Kendall Jenner for Love. Available at: http://www.style. com/trends/fashion/2015/kendall-jenner-boobs-love-magazinesteven-klein. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 3 - Own Image, 2014. NYC Posters. [Photograph]. Fig. 4 - Selfridges Agender. Available at: http://www.selfridges. com/content/article/coming-soon-agender. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 5 - Own Image, 2015. Shrips Coat, Berlin. [Photograph]. Fig. 6 - Sibling Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http:// www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/catwalk_ gallery/#gender=1&season=0&city=0&show=16256. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 7 - Own Image, 2015. Premium Trade Show, PomPoms. [Photograph]. Fig. 8 - Maison Margiela Women’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http:// www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/maisonmargiela. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 9 - Own Image, 2015. Fruit Shoot, Group Work Photo-shoot. [Photograph]. Fig. 10 - Montgomery James’ Bodysuit. Available at: http:// collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1176955/bodysuit-montgomeryjames/. [Photograph]. Fig. 11 - Gucci Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www.wgsn. com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/gucci. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 12 - Thom Browne Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/thombrowne. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 13 - Rick Owens Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/rickowens. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 14 - Own Image, 2014. NYC Lingerie Store. [Photograph]. Fig. 15 - Victoria Beckham x Andy Hillman VM. Available at: https://twitter.com/victoriabeckham/ status/569121759573766144. [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Fig. 16 - Own Image, 2014. BVGARI VM. [Photograph]. Fig. 17 - Own Image, 2014. NYC Store VM. [Photograph].

Fragility of Life

Fragility of Life: (Creative Direction)

Creative Direction sees a style veteran takeover. An era of style icons remerge onto our pages, reminding us that true style will never go out of fashion, Sharp silver cuts, the thickest of frames and enough colour to put any hipster to shame. Didion holds her own in Célines sunglasses campaign whilst Apfel looks ever the icon for Alexis Bittar. Channel 4’s recent series ‘Fabulous Fashionistas’ has coined this trend, giving us an insight into the lives of these intriguing characters. With a respect and fascination that keeps us coming back to see what they’ll wear next, it truly shows that you have either got it, or you haven’t. With the leggy Victoria’s Secret models, which saturate the beauty images of today, this alternative seems to give brands a dignity, a stylish class. With the return of the ‘Super Model’, coined originally in the 80’s, this trend has proven who the real super models are. Teaching us an important lesson: despite the fragility of our lives, always let your individuality reign.

fig.18 Alexandra Hanford|Own Image|23.04.15

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; fig.19 Celine|Spring 2015

fig.20 Fabulous Fashionistas|Channel 4|2013

Riteous

Thick Rim

fig.21 Kate Spade|Spring 2015

Superiority

No Damsel

Queen

Age Stamp:

(Print & Graphic)

(Creative Direction)

Fragility of Life.

Print takes on an ‘Age Stamp’ from furs to graphic knits. A nod to the fashion life cycle we see psychedelic patterns and prints emerging onto the catwalk. Street style has adopted this trend with open arms, seeing an army of flares and 70’s inspired prints across fashion weeks from London to Milan. Mui Mui sees paisley print dresses in their latest Resort Campaign, whilst Ainea combines these retro styles onto vibrant furs, a modern twist. Colours are plucked from the hippies themselves, mustard yellows and bright tangerines to rich browns and soft lilacs.

Reminiscent of Art Deco, Art Nouveau and The Arts and Crafts movements, this confirms that we are well into a fashion life cycle, taking inspiration from not one but a number of past trends and styles. Reusing and reinterpreting the prints of our past. Artist William Morris, one of the most influential of the Arts and Crafts movement, sees his work brought into this century through the Morris & Co. who are bringing his authentic prints into this age. From florals to graphic shapes it would seem the art of making a statement in print is here to stay.

fig.22 Premium Berlin | Own Image| 19.01.15

Feel Tha Funk

Can You Dig It

fig.23 AINEA Premium Berlin | Own Image | 19.01.15

fig.24 Margiela | AW 2015

Boogie

Stayinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Alive

How Deep fig.25 Mui Mui | Resort 2015

Organic Process: (Menswear)

(Print & Graphic)

Age Stamp.

Buttery soft to aged and cracked, leathers gain fashionable momentum providing an ideal material for unconventional menswear collections. Opposed to the predicted bombers and bikers rise collections of trousers, sweat shirt and track suit styles. A new ageing process is welcomed by a generation of ageless, silicone disguises, a breath of fresh air sweeping in the return of an ‘Organic Process.’ Fabrics are crafted by hand, used, reinvented and rewritten. A clothing life cycle has become part of ours. A rebellion to fast fashion, garments are allowed to age developing new purposes and occasions to be worn.

Pride is taken from an attire with a history, a purpose, a dignity, casting aside discriminations which once threatened our prestigious and adverse culture. RE;CODE aim to reinvent and up cycle forgotten pieces, giving value and personality to the disregarded remains of throwaway style. A nod to the 1940’s ‘Make do and Mend’ era, a once forgotten consideration has been rediscovered as we take care in our apparel. Tans, muted and rich, earth tones and warm hues create an elemental palette accompanying the fragility of life in its fabric form.

fig.26 Premium Berlin | Own Image| 19.01.15

fig.27 AllSaints HQ | Own Image | 27.10.14

fig.28 Martin Mergiela|A/W Men’s ‘15

Elemental

Mineral

Weather Leather

Igneous

fig.29 Commes de Garcons|Men’s A/W ‘15

Cracked

In Our Day:

(Visual Merchandising)

Following the recycled garments trends we see a life cycle of Visual merchandising begin to emerge. In store, life is brought back to derelict warehouses and unused factories. Bright Trade Show in Berlin saw exposed wires and crumbling plaster, bringing an edge to the bold colours and beauty of the show. With a nod to the Industrial Revolution we begin to reuse and create new spaces from these once busy, now forgotten places.

We now give way to the retirement renaissance, seeing the comeback of talented individuals into the fashion industry. Selfridges recent campaign in collaboration with Todd Selby; ‘Bright Old Things’, saw 14 creatives who had made a career change in later life to their profession now. Celebrating renewal, each was given their own window space to dress. This reuse of both space and talent gives way to exciting styles and fresh, new interpretations. Sue Kreitzman’s bold use of colour gives a playfulness we can now see reemerging onto the catwalk, a nod to her past and our future. fig.30 WOOD’D Premium Berlin|Own Image|19.01.15

(Menswear)

Organic Process.

Bright Eyed

And Custard

fig.31 Sue Kreitzman Selfridges|21.01.15

fig.32 Bright Trade Show|Own Image|20.01.15

Pinched Cheek

Iron Lady

fig.33 Bright Old Things|Selfridges|2015

Induatrialty

(Visual Merchandising)

In Our Day.

References:

fig.18 - Own Image, 2015. Alexandra Hanford. [Photograph]. fig.19 - Joan Didion for Celine. Available at: http://www.vogue. com/7683419/joan-didion-celine-ad-campaign/ [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.20 - Channel 4’s Fabulous Fashionistas. Available at: http:// www.radiotimes.com/news/2013-09-17/fabulous-fashionistas--meet-the-ladies [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.21 - Iris Apfel for Kate Spade. Available at: http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/search/#/Iris%2520Apfel [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.22 - Own Image, 2015. Storm & Marie, Berlin. [Photograph]. fig.23 - Own Image, 2015. AINEA - Berlin. [Photograph]. fig.24 - Maison Margiela Women’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/catwalk_gallery/ maison-margiela [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.25 - Mui Mui Resort Campaign 2015. Available at: http:// www.whowhatwear.com/miu-miu-resort-2015-campaign [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.26 - Own Image, 2015. Premium, Berlin Visual Merchandising. [Photograph]. fig.27 - Own Image, 2014. AllSaints HQ, The Biker Project. [Photograph]. fig.28 - Margiela Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/catwalk_ gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=19661 [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.29 - Commes de Garcons Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/catwalk_ gallery/#gender=1&season=0&city=0&show=16991[Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.30 - Own Image, 2015. WOOD’D Premium, Berlin. [Photograph]. fig. 31 - Sue Kreitzman for Selfridges. Available at: http://www. tattydevine.com/blog/2015/01/bright-old-things/ [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.32 - Own Image, 2015. Bright Berlin, Window Stickers. [Photograph]. fig.33 - Selfridges Bright Old Things. Available at: http://www. selfridges.com/content/article/bright-old-things [Accessed 12 May 2015].

Reactive Stance

Reactive Stance: (Creative Direction)

We are a guarded generation. We’ve see events that make the thickest of skin question the state of humanity. It seems not a day passes where the media isn’t attempting to convince us the world we live in is crumbling in front of our eyes. An example of how these scenes are displayed at the Hayward Gallery London in their History is Now exhibition. The collection consists of 7 artist take on Britain today provoking emotion in the majority, with a focus on war and conflict that has changed Britain today. The consumer of the hybrid stance has fallen witness to events just like ones seen in this exhibition however despite this they not afraid. Their intention is to stand against the negativity stemming from armed conflict and cultural upheave. fig.34 Page 3 Protest Nottingham|Own Image|Nov ‘13

fig.37 This Girl Can|Jan ‘15

fig.36 Je Suis Charlie|Jan ‘15

fig.35 Sky Stand Up Be Counted|Nov ‘14

Stance

Focus

Courage

The Limit

Faith

New Camo:

(Print & Graphic)

The print of the hybrid revolution is met with the alliance of technology. We see a focus on digital print showing illuminating tones showing the positive attitude of the hybrid revolution. Finding inspiration through print driven brand ERDEM we took from them their passion for digital print using our generations strongest tool, technology and applying it within their collection. The prints would be paired with strong structures creating a strong aesthetic guard for the hybrid revolution consumer. These prints grab your attention with the striking visuals and illuminating tones this works in conjunction with the Hybrid Revolutionist intention to grab attention and to stand up against the negativity around us.

fig.38 Bright Berlin|Own Image|20.01.15

(Creative Direction)

Reactive Stance.

fig.41 Premium Berlin Rain Coats|Own Image|19.01.15

fig.39 Helena Hietanen|2011

fig.40 Seek Berlin Acne|Own Image|20.01.15

Hybrid

Critic

Cover Up

Second Skin

Preserve

Active Guard: (Menswear)

As a nation we have turned to guarding ourselves from the negativity occuring in our fastpaced world. Subconsciously this has transcribed into our clothing choices, wrapping ourselves in a protective layer, guarding us. Menswear sees the humble puffa jacket transform into garments reminiscent of sci-fi characters, Ken dolls and wearable sleeping bags. Mocler keeps it classic with another luxurious line of coats whilst Moschino keep is light with chain printed, sky blue outerwear, just on the right side of tacky. Seek Trade Show brought us a puffa poncho, fashion and function merging in one fabulous motion. It was Philipp Plein brings us the Power Ranger-esqu outer wear, something Iron Man would be proud to wear. Materialising the notion of how we are standing up and being counted, not willing to back down against the negatives that surround us today.

fig.42 Mocler Berlin|Own Image|19.01.15

(Print & Graphic)

New Camo.

fig.45 Philipp Plein|A/W Men’s ‘15

fig.43 Moschino|A/W Men’s ‘15

fig.44 Seek Puffa Bag Coat|Own Image|20.01.15

Buffer

Rapid

Bastille

Lasting

Trench

Fibre Optic Resolution: (Visual Merchandising)

Visual Merchandising sees a technologically enhanced turn with the use of smart tablets in store and icon beacon mannequins. Shopping experiences turn into an exploration of what the world is now capable of, allowing our online generation to, truly, never switch off. This futuristic scene is set with elemental tones of taupe and chalk and functional, metallic aqua hues. With the release of the new Star Wars film later this year it has become apparent that a new Sci-Fi era is approaching. Ted Baker is one of the first to incorporate Iconeme Beacon Mannequins into their brand experience, seeing them sneak into the role of an early adaptor.

fig.46 Pinko Berlin|Own Image|19.01.15

(Menswear)

Active Guard.

fig.49 Ted Baker iBeacon|Feb ‘15

fig.47 Sneakerboy|March ‘14

fig.48 IKEA Wireless Charging|April ‘15

Service

Fundamental

Form

Function

Element

Fibre Optic Resolution.

(Visual Merchandising)

References:

fig.34 - Own Image, 2013. Page 3 Protest, Nottingham. [Photograph]. fig.35 - Sky - Stand Up Be Counted. Available at: http://news.sky. com/story/1327697/sky-news-stand-up-be-counted-how-it-works [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.36 - Je Suis Charlie. Available at: http://www.theregister. co.uk/2015/ [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.37 - This Girl Can. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/ sport/0/get-inspired/30743750 [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.38 - Own Image, 2015. Bright, Berlin Palm Print. [Photograph]. fig.39 - Helena Hietanen Installation. Available at: http://blog. ocad.ca/wordpress/gdes3b16-fw2011-01/2011/11/likes-anddislikes-4/ [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.40 - Own Image, 2015. Feather Print Acne Puffa, Berlin. [Photograph]. fig.41 - Own Image, Digital Print Rain Coat, Berlin. 2015. [Photograph]. fig.42 - Own Image, 2015. MonclerMen’s 2015 - Oremium Berlin. [Photograph]. fig.43 - Moschino Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www.wgsn. com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/search/moschino [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.44 - Own Image, 2015. Seek, Berlin. Pulla Coat. [Photograph]. fig.45 - Philipp Plein Men’s A/W ‘15. Available at: http://www. wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/catwalk_gallery/#philipp-plein [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.46 - Own Image, 2015. Pinko Instore Technology. [Photograph]. fog.47 - Sneakerboy Instore Technology. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2014/ mar/03/brands-technology-changing-face-retail [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig.48 - IKEA Wireless Charging Furniture. Available at: http:// gizmodo.com/ikea-just-made-it-crazy-easy-to-add-wirelesscharging-t-1698047498 [Accessed 12 May 2015]. fig. 49 - Ted Baker iBeacon Mannequins. Available at: http://www. essentialretail.com/news/article [Accessed 12 May 2015].