KK thoughtful LOVE ME, LOVE ME NOT MASTER OF COUTURE
inside
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London Fashion Week - trend report
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II Blogger Fashion Week report - Susanna Lau
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Master of Couture
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Susie styles it
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Op Art
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London Fashion Week - street style
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VII Good Kid, M.A.A.D City
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VIII We are young
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Where did you get that from?
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Love me, love me not
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We grow together
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XII Who am I?
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autumn/winter 2013 womenswear report
It’s a season about attitude and spirit - from the mix of girlboy dressing to the punk rebellion that we’ve seen make its mark across all four capitals. PHOTOGRAPHY FASHION WEEK PHOTOGRAPHERS
can you undress me?
MOSCHINO
JW ANDERSON
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CHRISTIAN DIOR
CELINE
We have seen a lot of bare shoulders for future season AW13. Even though it is a cold season, the designers weren’t scared to show off a little body in midi skirts. This trend isn’t new at all, it is coming back from what we saw during SS12 and which was actually very trendy. Designers like JW Anderson have shown a lot of body this season, maybe they are trying to show us that they will mentally stay in the SS season this coming winter? Holly Fulton, Christian Dior and Moschino are all following each other’s steps to the new bare shoulders trend.
TOM FORD
TOM FORD
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
Next trend was the transparency shown in skirts at Burberry Prorsum, showing off Cara’s brown love heartprinted hotpants. As well as the animal prints shown by Christopher Bailey and Tom Ford – sequin jackets with sleeked back ponytails, in monochrome and flower prints on top. What more can you ask for? Mr. Ford you have put a great shock face on all of us this season.
BURBERRY PRORSUM
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
monochrome me
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fast and fury-ous
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JW ANDERSON
JW ANDERSON
FENDI
TOM FORD
JW ANDERSON
Fashion has taken back fur into 21st century a few years ago and surprise, surprise, it is still here! Fur seems to be the most wearable item, a must-have in every Fashionista’s closet. It has now been transformed from mega warm winter coats to waistcoats that can be worn during summer and nothing can stand between you and your sheepy friend – not even the -5 degrees on the thermometer. We have seen a lot of fake fur and real fur on the catwalks this season – Vanni Cacocciola is a great example.
JUST DO IT.
THE ROW
MISSONI
BURBERRY PRORSUM FRONT ROW THE ROW
THE ROW MISSONI
Z is for ZZZZZ
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Louis Vuitton has presented a very wide range of… pyjamas. The silk trousers combined with a matching it top has been a trend in many high street stores like Zara or H&M. They have shown a range of pastel colours, with small repeated patterns playsuits and shirts. We have also seen Rihanna wearing a pyjama co-ord to Roc Nation Pre-Grammy Brunch. Lovely loungewear has been seen at The Row this year too. The trend has been seen on catwalks like Missoni, Prada and many more who would rather stay in bed all day. •
everyweek is fashion week SUSIE BUBBLE is a fashion blogger of the moment, who enjoys dressing up in colourful clothes. PHOTOGRAPHY LE 21ÈME ADAM KATZ SINDING
Susanna Lau is the world’s most famous and greatest blogger known. Her unique style combines different unusual garments together to make her outfits. What is it that makes Susie Bubble so different from other bloggers? This is the question I’m going to try and answer. Every blogger starts off the same – setting up a blogspot. com page is the easiest way and gives you everything you need for a start-up blog. Plenty of themes to choose from
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as well, as there are different ways to display your images, all to suit your own personal style and show your identity. Susanna started off just like that, a few years ago in London. She blogged ‘til she popped! Her articles were read by people all around the world and because of her unique artistic mind set combined with journalistic talent gave her all the fame. Miss Lau mixes different textures with patterned garments, and makes it all still go together and not look like it is out of place. Her outfits are
inspiring and always full of colour – she is an influence to all the young bloggers and a proof that if you want to achieve something, you will as long as you work hard for it. Her articles are usually based around fashion and all the present fashion debates. She uses a lot of fashion language with a sophisticated style and adds her own input to it. Recently, I found an article of hers in the Daily Mail for LFW13 – the way this extremely influential blogger talks about garments with passion and love as well as good criticism is not something you learn in high school while having a cheeky cigarette in the toilets with your friends. Susanna made sure that she was not one of those kids that sit at home and the only piece of work they do is their homework. She made her own garments and added embroidery to her favourite wardrobe pieces. During high-school, Lau’s classmates made a bet with her to wear a different outfit every day for a whole school year – without a surprise she achieved it as well, as she won the bet which was where her blogging career really grew high, she got so fascinated about her well her imagination works and how talented she is in the artistic and fashion way. Knowing all the small but such relevant facts about Susanna Lau’s life before the fame, makes you realize how much she has done to get to the point in life where she is at this moment in time. Her creativity grows within a day and it is hard to keep up with her fashion, although it is still amazing to watch her grow. •
“If you’re at a loose end (is there such thing at LFW?), pop over to rainbow aficionado Fred Butler’s pop-up shop at 53 Monmouth Street, where she is selling her colourful geometric wares. I’m still scoffing the Pomp de Franc cupcakes I took away from the opening on Saturday night.”
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master of COUTURE Valentino is not only a couture designer - he’s an inspiration for all the young designers and a role model for the younger generation. PHOTOGRAPHY UNKNOWN
Walking through Valentino’s exhibition is no wonder people say it’s like walking through probably one of fashion’s biggest influences life story written in the form of couture garments. Not the garments itself, but the name of the entire exhibition gives away that this is not something you would see on normal day basis. Couture translates to dress making in French - however it is not only dressmaking, due to the high volume of seam-stresses spending hours on each garment, making sure it is perfectly fitted and all the detailing is done on spot. Each of several dozen little Louis XV chairs, all in line in one room presented with the markings for “Gisele”, “Iman”, “Twiggy”, and “Madonna”. All front-row-regulars at the Valentino haute couture shows. Valentino’s 50-year career presented in a form of an over-the-scale display in the Somerset House during London Fashion Week 2013. The first thing you notice at the exhibition is a rather enormous flower light box presenting all the best and wellknown patterns of Valentino’s collections. The flow between hand sewn embroidery to dyed fabrics all in the same place, in the background - instrumental music. Just beneath it, a long trail of references from magazines that adoringly keep faith with the designer, season after season. Letters from names of Anna Wintour (whose hand writing couldn’t get any larger than fitting 20 words on a page of A4) and Patrick Demarchelier, all in honour to Valentino Garavani. All showing great respect to him, also revealing how much of a great personality he has himself. The notes commenting on how much of an influence on others career Valentino was, as well as thank-you notes and a handwritten fax from Karl Lagerfeld.
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Going further into the exhibition - set out 60-meter red carpet of which alongside are shown best garments of haute couture collections. Over 100 dresses all lined up by decade – “Mint” for the 1950s, “Mustard” for the 1960s, “Smoke” for the 1970s, “Terracotta” for the 1980s, “Parma Violet” for the 1990s, “Cream” for the 2000s, and “Ice” for the 2010s. The tiny brochure you receive while buying your tickets, let’s you see what outfit has been worn by a celebrity, for example a cream organza evening ensemble with flower detailing, with hand attached pearl and tiny white daisies – worn by Audrey Hepburn, or a red taffeta with remboursé train detail – worn by Anne Hathaway to the 2011 Oscars Ceremony, showing off her beautifully slim figure and greatly built shoulders. All those also labelled on the mannequins for the unfortunate ones without the brochure. For admires of Valentino’s breath-taking creations is the element of high-end craftsmanship that goes into each and every single piece. Different techniques used to create magical detail like “incrostazione” which the brochure explains to be “couture technique with sections of cut lace upon a tulle base”. The next room displays a wedding dress designed by Valentino for Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece – took twenty-five of Valentino’s seamstresses to make, it has also featured 12 kinds of lace and has a four and half meter train. The garment is a oneoff and has been fitted especially for the Princess, for this special occasion. It is a final garment in the exhibition which finishes off the spectacular show of Master of Couture’s career highlights. •
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susie styles it
SUSIE BUBBLE is a fashion blogger and one of the most influencial people in the fashion industry. TEXT KAROLINA WILCZEK
“I’m coming across a lot of ex designers from big labels striking out on their own, and Vanni Cacocciola is one of them. Vanni’s AW13 collection plays off fake fur against real.“
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Susie Bubble is a blogger of the moment who has taken all of the attention of current journalists and editors. Her full name is Susanna Lau – hence “Susie” is her nick name used in the name of the blog. She is not only a style icon, but also an influence on young bloggers trying to make it in this multi-billion industry that is fashion. Susanna works with illustrators and designers to help create breath taking lookbooks for their collections as well as style their shoots. Due to being a blogger, she gets a lot of freebies which then let her advertise it very well on her blog – it gets over 500 views a day. Young fashionistas seeing Lau wearing a certain designer necklace, makes them get inspired and look into the brand. This is how much of a great help, bloggers are for current designers. Personally, I myself get inspired by what you see on Susie Bubble blog – the way she is able to create a perfect outfit from different pattered clothes with different textures and fabrics. She still manages to pull it off very well. The way people dress comes out of their inner self – their personality, self-esteem and how they look at the
world. There are two types of fashionistas: those who like to be safe in their outfits and not mix up patterns however go for plain fabrics and simple garments; then there’s those that make the effort every morning to make sure they look different from everybody else, that they stand out and that the way they look speaks up. Susanna is one of those people. She expresses her emotions by dressing in different garments and making herself stand out from the crowd. Her beauty is also very unique. Round face with wide eyes and her signature full fringe, usually with a tight knot bun. All this makes a person be who they are, makes you stand out from the crowd and lets your outfit speak for itself. I think it is very important to be able to dress the way you want to and not think about what other people are going to say and what it is going to look like in the future when you look back in pictures. The truth is, the only reason you should ever look back, is to see what person you were and who you have become – what you achieved in life. •
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op art Monochrome, zebra print, grey, white and black. Summer 2013, everybody. PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLINA WILCZEK STYLING GRETA GROCHAL & KAROLINA WILCZEK MAKE UP GRETA GROCHAL & MANON LAYZELL
Greta is wearing her Forever21 shirt with wet look high waisted leggings.
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Manon is wearing a cropped vest from ASOS. com, highwaisted black maxi skirt from ZARA with black Vans; hair bow is from American Apparel.
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Manon is wearing a cut out vest from H&M with Urban Outfitters high waisted leggings and black Vans; hair bow is from American Apparel.
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Greta is wearing her Ramones t-shirt with leather Converse.
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Greta is wearing a River Island velvet dress with cut out back and leather Converse.
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life is too short to wear boring clothes What we see on the streets is the biggest influence of all. PHOTOGRAPHY LFW BLOGGERS
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Walking through the streets of London on a cool winter day, looking for inspiration throughout all the fashionistas during London Fashion Week - probably one of my most favourite parts of being a fashion student. The variety of different styles you see around the Somerset House in Temple is really something you have to see yourself – it is like everybody plays Lady Gaga for that one week and makes a lot of effort to put into their style, however still makes sure they make it their own and unique. This has really got me thinking about how different everybody is and how amazing this makes the world that we all live in. Without different cultures, races and religions, there would be no such thing as history of humanity or even intelligence. So what makes everybody so different? We all learn from our own mistakes. We all want to be perfect. But no one was ever perfect, and no one will ever be perfect. Life is all about having fun and making mistakes with no regrets, because all those mistakes are really giving us are learned lessons and unforgettable memories. Who ever thinks back about the night they stayed in and got a lot of sleep?
certain moment in time – whether they want to be covered in black - leather jacket, Doc Martens, long gold chains with RayBans wayfarers, or be head to toe in patterned clothing, with peep toe bird Miu Miu heels, mint trousers underneath a baby pink dress with an oversized jumper over the top and a short outwear to top it up. It is all up to you, what you wear and what you want to reveal about yourself and your life through clothing, to the society. Confidence is the key to fashion and this is what is given to us through adventures which result in life lessons. So who is it that influences all the fashionistas out there? Personally, I get inspired by the bloggers and going to fashion events, which give you the opportunity to be able to meet people and get inspired by them and their history. What you take on from other people, you always make it your own – no matter what you wear, whether it is the same jacket and jeans you saw on Kate Moss last week, it will never look the same on you, because you are two different people. You style yourself differently and unconsciously, even when the only image you have in your head is to look like that certain character.
“There is something about fashion that makes people scared” – words of fashion’s most powerful woman Anna Wintour. Fashion is something that really does scare people, because nobody wants to be put on a front page of a newspaper with a horrible hash tag next to. Style is subjective. Everybody has their own way of showing their personality, what they feel at a
Your own personality and what you have been through in life, create you, your fashion and your view on life. Nobody has ever done the same things and been in the situation you have been in – like nobody has ever worn the same clothes as you and looked like your twin. We are all different and at the same time this is what makes us all the same.•
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good kid m.A.A.d. city PHOTOGRAPHY BEN MILLER
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“A lot of people always ask me: “Your debut album – how long did it take you to make your debut album?”. They can’t fathom when I tell them, they can’t fathom it when I tell them it’s taking me my whole life.”
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Once you’re on stage you would obviously get a lot of energy off the crowd. How does it feel to be that person everybody is paying to see? Yeah, you get it from the crowd. That’s the only thing that keeps me going when I’m tired. I get on stage and I get that energy from the crowd, it’s real. You know, it’s insane where life takes you - one day you’re looking into an empty fridge and another you perform in front of thousands of people. It’s mad. You’ve come from such a small, not very recognizable town in California. Your album also features a lot of artists people may have never heard of. Do you think you could introduce a completely new music generation and show them another side of this industry? And that was the purpose of putting those kinds of features on [Good Kid M.A.A.D. City]. To let them know and not only recognise new artists but also recognise the actual full culture of west coast music, and you can go back and listen any time to MC Eiht or Dr. Dre. Now that you’ve heard my album you know we’ve been
doing this a long time and putting out great music. Personally, a great
I think view of
the your
album whole
is life.
Yeah, the goal is to paint those visuals with words and different types of beat selections. I like to make it real cohesive, between what I’m talking about and the sound I’m creating. So if you close your eyes and listen to my music it’ll feel like you’re actually there. The album is crazy; it’s one of my favourite of all times. It shows a lot of different emotions - you can really express the way you feel, well in your lyrics. I didn’t want this album to be monotone. I want people to really understand the different emotions going on throughout a day of my life and to me as a person. When you get inside, that’s just who I am. I’m a human being: I have different emotions throughout the day, different feelings and I want to express myself as a person I am. As an artist, I am thought of as a celebrity. A lot of people think our lives are
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crazy mad, filled with money - but this is my job, it’s my hobby but it is still my job, my career. I wanted to show people that I am a human. This time of the year is always a time “Album of The Year” gets awarded. Do you think this is a sign for you, that Good Kid M.A.A.D. City could be ‘it‘ this year? I think the people that say “Album of The Year” recognise my three albums prior to putting this project out. I wouldn’t call them mix tapes because they were full length projects, with original beats, original lyrics and original concepts. So when they listened to the Kendrick Lamar EP, Overly Dedicated and Section.80, they feel like that was the build-up to Good Kid M.A.A.D. City. Now that I’ve hit the nail on the head that actually stamps it as an “Album of The Year”. The album got into people’s heads a lot and you showed them what life is really about. Even greatest artists are getting their opinion out on the album. Your lyrics are great, you really do have that something. I ain’t gotta say nothin’. [Laughs.] I just let the music speak. I don’t get into all the crazy shenanigans of the business. I let the music speak and at the end of the day that always stands. You have come across to me as such a down-to-earth person. You don’t seem like the business has gone into your head too much. I mean, you see a lot of celebrities commenting and showing their lives off on Twitter and Instagram. I mean it’s the entertainment business, you can never forget that, so I don’t knock other people’s strategies to keep them relevant, I just comprehend that the music comes first and always speaks first, no matter what you do. You can say the most outlandish things but if you drop a record the next day and it’s trash, now you’re just a popular person. I don’t just want to be a popular person, I want my music to always live because that’s what’s going to drive your legacy. You can be the most popular person on the planet. There are a lot of artists that are way more popular than Kendrick Lamar, but when it’s time for their album to drop and that week is up or that year is up and the reception from that album is not as critically strong as Good Kid M.A.A.D City, it shows. I always want to keep in my mind and be aware that the music should always come first. Would you say you are now in a place where you’re not intimidated by huge artists and know you are working your way to the top very effectively? I had to get over that fear before the album came out fast, because once you’re in it and they’re crowning you as the new guy to do it, working with the idols you looked up to, its ‘Play ball’ now. You can’t really get into the studio with Jay-Z or Eminem and look at them like ‘They’re my big homies’; you’ve got to go in there trying to cut their head off. Period. That’s something I always had to think about, always had to prepare myself for. It’s really a continuation of that and a constant thought process of knowing that I am a peer now, rather than just a student. There must of been at least a little bit of pressure - I’ve watched a video which basically compared all the biggest rappers debut albums and you were one of them. Whatever you are doing, you are doing it well. And that came out of nowhere too, I was like ‘Who the hell did this? Did the label do this? Why would they do this?’ [Laughs.] They just put on the pressure extra thick. It worked out though, it worked out. You don’t seem like you rely on them people though. You have many powerful people behind you like Dr. Dre, yet you seem much more independent than different debuting artists. I think they’ve got respect for my development and where I was at with my music, especially Dre – he was very confident in the music I was making when it was time for me to turn it in. It was a good deal: everybody at the label [Interscope Records] respected me and respected TDE [Top Dawg Entertainment] as a brand and respected our creative process and the way we’ve been doing things since day one. Everything was really in place for us to just go out there and do what we’ve been doing.•
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we are young we are free stay up late we don’t sleep Life is all about how you live it. No regrets. No mistakes. No-one’s perfect. You choose the way you live it, because noone is going to live your life for you. PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLINA WILCZEK STYLING GRETA GROCHAL & KAROLINA WILCZEK MAKE UP GRETA GROCHAL & MANON LAYZELL
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“Sweetheart, you can’t go listening to every f*cking little voice that runs through your head. You’ll go nuts.“ - Samantha “Sex and the city“
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quit your job buy a ticket get a tan fall in love never return
WHERE DID YOU GET THAT blogger is a Brit living in New York city. PHOTOGRAPHY KAREN BLANCHARD
Living the “normal“ blogger life, meeting celebrities at UNICEF parties and hanging out with fashion’s most-wanted - Miroslava Duma.
Karen like everybody else deserves a holiday and likes to treat herself while going away to her family home St. Lucia.
Her shoe obsession can be called very... extravagant. •
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love me, love me not PHOTOGRAPHY KAROLINA WILCZEK
Swan Lake is the most breathtakingly beautiful ballet ever made. The sophistication and ease with which the dancer moves and the prima ballerina does to prepare herself to transform her inner self into being mentally strong enough to be able to dance both parts, very different but at the same time very intimate – white and black swan. The message I have personally gotten through this ballet - shows how under an influence we are all able to transform into something completely opposite of ourselves. Also, stop thinking the same way, simply because of the evil, that is love. We all have that evil inner self. We are all both Yin and Yang. Ballet dancers take a long time rehearsing for their shows. Endless lessons and personal preparations to be able to be mentally ready for not only the stress of performing - however the transformation of not being a dancer but being an evil inside the purest of all, the white swan. It all takes time to be able to dance a role well and meet the high standards of the multibillion industry, that is theatre. It is all about performance and how you are able to transform yourself to a completely different character on stage. Prima ballerinas are taught how to dance the role in the most sophisticated and delicate way – they are thought of as swans. This is where the swan lake story meets ballet – in the smoothness and delicateness of the sophisticated, and so easy looking dance moves; the way the ballerina swings through the air with no limitations. Only very well taught dancers are able to take up the role of the Swan Queen, who transforms under the influence of her enchanter. During the “Swan Lake”, main character is playing a Princess who throughout the
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“...the way the ballerina moves shows of the royalty and sophistication as well as the controversial image of the Royal families.”
“We all have that evil inner self. We are all both Yin and Yang.”
play transforms into a white swan. She seduces Prince Siegfried who is the hero of the story. A handsome Prince falls deeply in love with Odette – The Queen of the Swans. It is a very typical love story, although the way the ballerina moves in different parts of the performance, shows the royalty and sophistication as well as the controversial image of the Royal families. Von Rothbart is the evil in the play – he enchants the young and beautiful Princess Odette. There is also a secondary antagonist whose name is Odile – The Black Swan. The ballerina playing Odette is also playing Odile – which shows how strong the dancer is to be able to not only physically, but mentally show and transform herself into the evil character. The big ending of the story is the Princess killing herself due to the overreaction and confusion of the situation she has put herself into. The play shows how well psychology is shown in everything we do in life – everything around us, affects the way we are. Our personalities and our looks, are both an effect to what the society does to human beings. How it is changing us into the complete opposites of what we really are. Psychology is not simple; it takes time to understand what goes on in our heads. This is what amazes me about the great Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, whom is the writer of the play “Swan Lake”. He was an intelligent and a very smart man with the way he created the performance and every small detail about it – to then show the audience, the hidden side of the story and the psychological view of schizophrenia. He also demonstrated how it affects us and the people around, as well, as making the show be loved by all the critics up until now.•
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we grow together PHOTOGRAPHY WILCZEK FAMILY Relationships. We all have relationships. We all have families. We all have friends. They are what creates not only relationships, but also what creates us – the way we are, our personalities, our flaws and things they love about us. We all, also, have a different kind of relationship with ourselves – our inner self. From our very first day in this world, we are given all the love a new born needs from their parents and the rest of the family. They say no-one knows how much you can love someone until you have a child of your own - you love them with all your heart. You’d take a bullet for them. You’d give them your whole world, because they are your whole world. Women are mostly thinking about whom they are going to marry and who is going to be the father of their child from a very young age. They think of what the child is going to look like and be like. What kind of similarities it will have to the parents? We all want the child to have something about them that we can see in ourselves as well. However due to all the love we are giving them, we do not want them to have the life we have had - to make the same mistakes that we have made, to see our child get hurt in the same way we did in the past. It is difficult watching your young one grow up in such a quick time, making the same mistakes you did and not being able to stop them, no matter what. Although, the world is full of regrets and people trying to make it better – it will never be perfect, just like us. We all have different relationships outside of the family. We act differently at school and work, as well as with our closest friends. We all have a person that could never be replaced by anyone else and that is our best friend. This is the person that is by our side, while we are out late and need help with coming up with an excuse to tell the next day. The person who we cheated on the test with and who we bunked boring school lessons with. Your soulmate who is with you side by side, mistake by mistake. For the fortunate ones, that kind of best friend ends up being their life partner - the person you see walking down the isle, the one who loves you with every breath they take. Although, it all seems so easy, love is complicated. It happens a lot that we fall for the people we shouldn’t fall for, or for someone who is never going to catch us. It is easy to call someone a best friend but it isn’t easy to give that person your trust and gain that trust back from them too. Knowing you’re always there for them and knowing they will always be there for you. A best friend is someone everyone needs, because it’s easy standing by yourself, but not so easy climbing up the highest mountain. Thinking about all the ways people see themselves in the mirror and through other people’s opinions, you really get a view on what kind of person they are. You know straight away if they are insecure or have an undestroyable self-esteem. We all have a relationship with ourselves. Some people say they are their own best friend, that no-one understands them. You are the only one that has gone through the certain moments in your life. No-one has the same feelings as the other person does, everyone feels different about different situation, everybody has a different view on life. There is no-one else to give you a true opinion, because they do not know exactly how you felt in that moment. Sometimes, you only cannot express your feelings in words. That’s how people become the best of themselves – by believing that they are their own best friend and with that second person inside you, you don’t need anybody else. We all have all these types of relationships. We all deal with having to go through family drama all the time and having your best friend crying on your shoulder about a guy who has just broken her heart – and then we have us. Ourselves. We have our own relationship. It is just - me, myself and I. •
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“Whoever loves becomes humble. Those who love have, so to speak, pawned a part of their narcissism.� Sigmund Freud
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who am I? PHOTOGRAPHY UNKNOWN
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“I have found little that is good about human beings on the whole. In my experience most of them are trash, no matter whether they
publicly subscribe to this or that ethical doctrine or to none at all. That is something that you cannot say aloud, or perhaps even think.� 47
“By the 1950s and ‘60s, the master’s warning had been drowned in a tumult of excited voices. Psychoanalysts and psychiatrists could cure even
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schizophrenia, the most feared mental disease of all, they claimed, and they could do it simply by talking with their patients.�
Quotes by Sigmund Freud.
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illustrations by Karolina Wilczek
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