RESEARCH REPORT M2Di | Group 2 Katharina Gerken Canan Jacobs Annika Langhammer Emilija Lauraityte Sanne Lejeune
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
UNCAGED is the made-to-measure woman’s clothing brand founded in
Amsterdam in 2017. We design and manufacture our collections with the use of 3D body scanning techniques to create bespoke clothing that celebrates the feminine figure of women who are aged 50 years and older. UNCAGED brings heritage techniques and quality craftsmanship of traditional ateliers to the fast-paced fashion industry in a modern as well as circular way. Within this research report, UNCAGED is presenting how to establish a successful as well as feasible start-up company by keeping the environment in mind. In order to carry out our research in diverse manners, we used both qualitative and quantitative research. One of our most significant methods of research is the worldwide execution of personal interviews and online surveys with potential customers to find out more about their behavior as well as their demand within the clothing market. Besides, we use the approach of benchmarking to discover the best performance which UNCAGED could achieve. By all means, we make use of statistics from databases such as CBS StatLine and WGSN to back up our findings. As a result of our intensive research and brainstorming, we are able to define important guidelines for our brand. Corporate Responsibility is of highest importance to us, so we identify possible impacts for our environment to keep them as low as possible to be a truly circular brand within our lifecycle assessment. UNCAGED is making sure to cover all possible risks and therefore established a Risk Management and Monitoring protocol. Last but not least, our brand’s true-cost price is calculated by including the total eco-cost according to European Union Standards. Our ultimate goal for the future is to establish UNCAGED as a brand, that integrates women aged 50 years and older. We want to ‘uncage’ our customer from existing prejudices against her. UNCAGED as a start-up company takes care of the constant improvement of our body scanner system and especially the establishment of a community to complete our customer’s integration in society.
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TEN
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6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 15 16-19 19 20-21 22 23 24-25 26 27 28 29
Introduction Customer Benchmarking Collection Design Development Mood Collection Autumn/Winter 18/19 Collection Overview & Color Card Justification Collection Width & Depth Range Plan Explanation Price Segment True Cost Description Product Lifecycle Product Lifecycle Assessment Justification Production Facilities Risk Assessment Conclusion
31-43 Appendix 45-48 Source List
INTRODUCTION Customer Profile Our customer’s satisfaction is our highest priority. UNCAGED was originally created to address the needs of the female ‘Power Boomers’ – open-minded and adventurous women over 50 with a ravenous appetite for experiences and a positive approach to aging. The so called ‘Power Boomer’ feels misunderstood by society and is constantly disregarded by marketers. The fashion that is offered to her age group makes her feel and look older and doesn’t fit her mindset. She sees fashion as means of creative selfexpression and is seeking for clothing that can offer her this value in an age appropriate way. One of the main issues our customer is facing is the sizing problem, since her body has changed with aging. That’s where UNCAGED steps in. Corporate Responsibility
BEAUTY COMES WITH AGE-– JOIN THE MOVEMENT AND FEEL UNCAGED. Created in 2017, UNCAGED is the modern woman’s personal atelier. We design and manufacture our collections with the use of 3D body scanning techniques to create bespoke clothing that suits our customers’ personal style and celebrates the feminine figure of women who are aged 50 years and older. To keep the production of our collection as personal and exclusive as possible, UNCAGED brings heritage techniques and quality craftsmanship of traditional ateliers to the fast-paced fashion industry in a modern as well as sustainable way.
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Sustainability for us is neither a choice nor a trend – it is the base of our concept. UNCAGED always keeps the environment in mind. Sustainability is not only the manner in which apparel is produced but something that also has to do with honesty. Therefore, transparency is of special importance to us. We work with unique and sustainable fabrics that offer the highest quality possible. Our innovative and unique man-made semi-synthetic polyester fiber Sea Wool is made from unusual raw materials such as oyster shells and recycled plastic from the ocean. UNCAGED also offers garments made out of Lenzing Viscose, a viscose fiber which is made out of renewable wood. Organic Wool, which comes from sheep that are kept according to sustainable farming standards, is used instead of the original wool to pay attention to the environmental impact as well as the animal welfare. One of our essential fabrics
Tencel, which is manufactured from Eucalyptus trees and offers identical properties to cotton, is completing our fabric selection. UNCAGED’s made-to-order model reduces our company’s impact on the environment by rejecting mass production, minimizing storage, avoiding excess stock and, last but not least, decreasing returns. We incorporate better practices throughout our supply chain, to make wonderful collections at a fraction of the environmental impact of conventional fashion brands. The Collection UNCAGED was set up to disregard all existing prejudices. Our A/W 2018/19 collection ‘Redefined Icons’ indulges in a journey where we return to authentic timeless garments merged with refined simplicity in form of colorful details. ‘Redefined Icons’ is dedicated to the female icons who have shaped the image of women in society. We want to ‘uncage’ women over 50 of the misconceptions about their age group by giving our customer the opportunity to express herself in a way she feels comfortable with. We celebrate the individuality of each and every woman and therefore we make sure that women of all shapes and sizes can wear UNCAGED by keeping the environmental impact in mind.
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CUSTOMER
The Power Boomers are part of the Baby Boomer generation, meaning they are aged 50 years and older. It is a generation that has become the fastest growing age group as they have a radically different lifestyle than previous generations (Brady, 2012). They believe that you become more mature and strong with the passing of time (Grece Ghanem,2017). Besides, they are very proud of their age and consider it to be their ‘superpower’. For some this means investing time and money in past daydreams by travelling the world, while for others using their experience as an asset for starting up a business.
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BENCHMARKING Garment Ratio (pieces) CHICO'S Type/Brand
United States
United States and Australia
Italy
Brand: beautiful apparel, exceptional service and deep appreciation for our customers—still remain at the heart of who we are today.
Brand: Celebrating the individuality of each woman. Fashion shouldn’t only look good on a mannequin – it should look good on women.
Brand: passion, innovation and creativity in the women’s fashion sector to express itself and continuously develop within precise style identities.
FAME AND MAXMARA PARTNERS
BLOUSES
184 pcs
16 pcs
80 pcs
KNITWEAR
54 pcs
-
192 pcs
BLAZERS
86 pcs
-
39 pcs
TROUSERS
52 pcs
12 pcs
192 pcs
DRESSES
26 pcs
237 pcs
224 pcs
Price range CHICO'S Range
BASIC
UNCAGED
FAME AND PARTNERS
TOP
BASIC
TOP
BASIC
TOP
MAXMARA BASIC
TOP
BLOUSES
€ 47.00 € 169.00 € 129.00 € 299.00 € 109.00 € 169.00 € 129.00 €
KNITWEAR
€ 39.00 € 299.00
BLAZERS
€ 83.00 € 399.00
TROUSERS
€ 49.00 €
DRESSES
€ 79.00 € 189.00 € 199.00 € 299.00 € 189.00 € 359.00 € 175.00 € 2,279.00
-
-
-
-
€
409.00
99.00 € 169.00 € 105.00 €
729.00
€ 279.00 € 289.00 € 279.00 €
869.00
89.00 € 199.00 € 229.00 € 129.00 € 289.00 € 165.00 €
465.00
In order to define our prices and our collection we had a look at possible competitors. Due to the same business concept, referring to a similar customer and collection design, we decided on Chico’s, Fame& Partners and MaxMara as our main competitors. According to the table, the brand with the lowest prices, but yet with the widest garment range is CHICO’S. Considering the offers and the price set up of our competitors we decided to place UNCAGED in between MaxMara and Fame and Partners. UNCAGED is a brand which differs from its competitors by its unique designs with a high quality, the best possible fit combined with an affordable price.
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COLLECTION DESIGN DEVELOPMENT ‘Redefined icons’ autumn/winter 2018/19 collection started with trend research. Trend Unions, ‘Portraits of Fashion’ autumn/winter 2018/19 trend forecast inspired us with chapters like ‘Abstraction’, ‘Drawings’, ‘Textiles’, ‘Children’. Through a profound analysis of the WGSN trends we defined the following keywords for our collection: minimalism, timelessness, simplification in elegance, exception and aestheticism. These terms helped us to create the mood and pick the right color palette. Making our collection just simple and elegant was not enough. Our customers are looking for fashionable pieces for their age, which is why we considered experimenting with balanced contrasts and most importantly, perfect fitting garments with a catchy twist. Additionally we ran a worldwide online survey about specific design elements (results see next page). Based on the feedback, we noticed that within the problem of sizing, the problems of finding fashionable and fitted two pieces and dresses can be defined. Therefore, UNCAGED designed two sets including one trouser, one blazer as well as a range of four different styles for dresses. Survey by
57.1% Trousers 42.9% Skirt
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80% Long Sleeve 20% Short Sleeve
84% Solid 16% Print
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JUSTIFICATION WIDTH & DEPTH
The Autumn/Winter collection 2018/19 ‘Redefined Icons’ by UNCAGED, which is dedicated to female icons who have shaped the image of women, unites authenticity and timelessness with refined simplicity. ‘Redefined Icons’ includes fifteen unique pieces divided in seven basic, five mid and three top styles. We chose to contain seven out of fifteen styles within the basic segment, since we believe in the quick adaption of our basic styles into the market. In order to speak to a broad audience we offer our basic items in four color ways. The fashion segment consists of five garments. Three different color ways are offered. STATEMENT
Fierce Red #300
To round up our collection we chose to only have three styles with two color options in our statement segment, since these styles are really unique in design and therefore not easy to establish in the market. Consequently, UNCAGED is having a ratio of 7:5:3 within the style segments. All offered colors are timeless as well as muted and easy to combine. With a pop of color in the inside of a garment or colorful stitching, a refined twist is given to the collection. We only have two small collections a year because we are following the slow fashion model to focus on quality instead of quantity. With the existence of two collections we are able to equip our customer with unique goods. Besides, the slow fashion model is perfect for a start-up company in order to keep track on the business development and to be able to work on time without delays. Since our collection is quite small with a content of 15 unique pieces, we launch the collection at one time instead of dividing the release over weeks. UNCAGED will launch unique statement pieces a week earlier as a sneak-peak of the collection to create excitement and curiosity by an outstanding campaign.
Desert Orange #301
Refined Ocker #302
Dusty Rosé #201
Cozy Camel #202
Champagne #203
Royal Navy #101
Pure Granite #102
Cold Stone #103
FASHION
Deep Burgundy #200 BASIC
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True Black #100
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RANGE PLAN STYLE
Color Color Color Color Detail Detail Detail Detail Fabric 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 (100% only)
Cost Price
Gross Profit %
Retail Price
Turnover Category
STATEMENT TOPS Tencel
88.51€
75%
359.00 €
B
Tencel Velvet
150.00€
54%
329.00 €
B
Tencel
125.00€
57%
289.00 €
C
Audrey Dress
Sea Wool
141.75€
56%
319.00 €
C
Michelle Blazer
Sea Wool
111.89€
60%
279.00 €
B
Tencel
30.79€
78%
139.00 €
B
Sea Wool
95.25€
44%
169.00 €
B
Sea Wool
53.33€
73%
199.00 €
B
Viscose
54.98€
71%
189.00 €
A
RANGE
Iris Dress
Organic Wool
82.98€
62%
219.00 €
C
Yoko Sweater
Organic Wool
98.94€
38%
159.00 €
C
Chimananda Sweater Sarah Sweater
Organic Wool
85.21€
50%
169.00 €
A
TOP Blazer Blouse Sweater Dress
279€ 119€ 99€ 189€
329€ 169€ 169€ 359€
Tencel
26.53€
73%
99.00 €
A
Teresa Blouse
Viscose
42.82€
61%
109.00 €
B
BOTTOM Pants
129€
289€
Diana Dress Maxima Blazer BOTTOMS Eleanor Trouser
FASHION TOPS
Madonna Sweater Oprah Blouse BOTTOMS Rosie Trouser
BASIC TOPS Jackie Dress
BOTTOMS Coco Pant
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Tencel
47.56€
63%
129.00 €
A
BASIC
STATEMENT
Average Cost price= 82.21€ Average Gross Profit % = 61% Average Retail Price = 210.33 €
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Graphic by
As we aimed to create a collection with a twist, we have relatively few A-styles and our B&C category is almost identical in amount of pieces sold. The A category will undeniably generate the most effort as the styles are simple and easy to combine. Additionally, group B&C both generate 15% of our whole profit because the division within the collection is equally spread, referring to the revenue stream.
EXPLANATION PRICE SEGMENT Our Autum/Winter 2018/19 collection is a high quality collection produced to sustainable standards, placed in the mid-price section. Our benchmarking enabled us to position UNCAGED in between Fame& Partners and MaxMara. Through our online survey, we were able to find out the exact needs of our customer. The achieved fusion of simplicity and the refined touch of color convinces us that we created an easy accessible and therefore commercial collection. Our statement pieces are not too risky as they comprise an elegant simplicity, which is easy to add to every women’s wardrobe. In our collection, we have items with an affordable price where we expect high purchase quantities, such as the Sarah Turtleneck and the Coco Trouser. However, we also have items where we set a strikingly high price, for example our dresses. According to the report ‘Balancing Multi-Generational Retail Strategies’ by Synchrony Financial, retailers attribute nearly 50% of their sales to Power Boomers. We believe this fact, in combination with our customers’ pressing needs and their financially stable situation, allows us to set our prices in a higher price range. Furthermore, our brand aims to make our customer feel special which is why we define our concept as mass customization. As visible in our range plan, our profit margin is has quite a big range (38%-78%). We decided to work with high margins in order to cover our start-up costs, like fixed assets, eco-costs, order insurance costs and most importantly investments such as our body scanner.
TRUE COST DESRIPTION We approach our product costs by the use of the bottom-up- calculation. At the same time, we aim for a value driven cost structure based on our customer that is made to compete. The most important aspects for our cost set-up are sustainability, high quality, consistency and our competitors. After researching the production countries as well as fabric and trim prices, we were able to calculate the raw material costs. The second part consists out of the CMT price, which we calculated according to Dutch productivity levels and prices, as we will produce our collection in our own atelier close to Amsterdam (Carolina van Gerven-Veth, International Production, 2016). The third part includes our transport costs. For these we derived an average of 0,18€ which we then added to the cost price. The last and most valuable aspect were the eco-costs. With our strategy, we aim to reduce our impact on the environment to a minimum.
Survey by
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Additionally, we will buy the fabric and dye it according to the demand of our customer, which allows us to cut down left over fabric stock. Not only do we cover our impact on the environment with our emission cost, but also by including resources, global warming as well as human health. Including those aspects, we have derived a cost of 0,135€ /kg CO² equivalent. Our big profit margin enables us to cover the eco-cost instead of including it in the cost price. Calculations of our estimated demand can be found in our appendix, page 43.
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SEA WOOL
L
= Steps which are happening constantly
Packaging + Transportation
Production of yarn
PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE
Collecting ocean plastic and oyster shells
Production of Sea Wool
Packaging + Transportation to warehouse + dyeing factory
PRODUCT LIFECYCLE
For UNCAGED, environmental responsibility is not only about the creation of a single sustainable product. Our goal when setting up our company was for sustainability to be part of our business model, to be included in whatever product we design. It is important for us to dive deep into our supply chain, in order to identify and understand the environmental impact of every production phase. We do this in the form of periodic Life Cycle Assessments, which for example focus on the use of natural resources and emissions. Addtionally information for our Product Lifecycle can be found on page 32-34 of our appendix.
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Piece dyeing the fabric
Measuring the customer
Individual customization by customer
Packaging + Transportation to store
Online or in store purchase
Labelling prototypes
Packaging + Transportation to atelier
Setting buttons
Manufacturing of customized blouse
Setting buttons
Manufacturing prototypes (34, 36, 38, 40, 42)
Labelling blouse
STORE
Packaging + Transportation
Process of shredding + creation of new fabrics
Packaging + Transportation to factory
Customer brings garment back to store
GENERAL PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE
VISCOSE/ORGANIC WOOL/TENCEL
(garments not made of sea wool)
- all production processes according to GOTS standards -
Production of yarn
Production of fabric
Packaging + Transportation to warehouse + dyeing factory Piece dyeing the fabric
Measuring the customer
Individual customization by customer
Packaging + Transportation (either to home address of customer or to store)
Packaging + Transportation to store
Online or in store purchase
Labelling prototypes
Manufacturing of customized blouse
Packaging + Transportation to atelier
Setting buttons
Setting buttons
Manufacturing prototypes (34, 36, 38, 40, 42)
Labelling blouse
STORE
Packaging + Transportation
Process of shred-Packaging + Transportation ding or to factory unwinding + creation of new fabrics
Customer brings garment back to store
Packaging + Transportation (either to home address of customer or to store)
Graphic by
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JUSTIFICATION
PRODUCTION
FACILITIES
PRODUCT LIFECYCLE ASSESSMENT Our company’s first Life Cycle Assessment, an assessment of the Oprah Blouse, was conducted according to the ISO assessment procedures as standardized in the ISO 14040:2006 (International Standardization Organization, 2006) series for environmental management. During this assessment we divided the production into 5 phases: pre-production, production, distribution, utilisation and disposal (Lyngaas, K). We analysed the specific impact per stage of the product’s life cycle, and came to the conclusion that there were 5 aspects in our lifecycle that cause the most harm to the environment: transport emissions and fuel use, energy use, water use and pollution, material waste and paper and plastic use. Upon finding out about those aspects, we have come to 5 measures that will help us minimise our environmental impact. To learn more about those measures and the full Life Cycle Assessment, see page 35-37 of our appendix.
The team behind UNCAGED had a specific focus while determining its production locations: maintaining a local and environmental friendly essence. The result is a fashion brand that has centered its full production process in the Netherlands, Germany and Spain. The one-off purchase of sustainable buttons and labels will be imported from Italy and England. We achieved our goal to produce all different fabric compositions of the autumn/winter 2018/19 collection at one single fabric mill: Ecological Textiles supplier in Roermond, the Netherlands. The intention behind this mission was based on the reduction of CO2 emissions by minimizing transportation distances as it is only 146 kilometers away from the UNCAGED atelier and the dying factory (Distancefromto.net, 2017). The fabric supplier fulfills all the requirements we expect from an ideal supplier for our concept. The results are high quality fabrics perfectly suitable for garments. We justify our decision to dye the fabrics at the Grenzlandfärberei in Bocholt, Germany, given the fact that the factory is based in-between the fabric supplier and the atelier. We find it really important to incorporate sustainable buttons and labels in the collection which is why we source sustainable buttons and labels from Italy and England as it is only a one-way transport. Our fabric warehouse is located next to our atelier which results in direct access from the production place, without having transportation times and CO2 emissions.
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Concerning the scarcity of upcycling companies, we are forced to outsource the process to the Recover Factory in Spain. Their mission is in line with our values: changing the environmental impact of the fashion industry in the most innovative way possible (Recover online, 2017). In order to keep the CO2 emissions as low as possible UNCAGED collects the brought back garments over a period of four months before transporting the amount to Spain.
STOCK STRATEGY As UNCAGED is a start-up company that provides customized garments made-to-order, we are not able to meet the minimum quantity regulations of already dyed fabrics without facing the big risk of having too much seasonal stock at the end of the autumn/winter period. Thus, our stock will consist out of un-dyed fabrics in different qualities. This strategy provides us with the possibility to react to the favorite colors and fabric choices of our customers and prevents the overproduction of seasonal colored fabrics. In addition, it grants the opportunity to reuse the un-dyed materials for the following seasons.
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RISK ASSESSMENT For UNCAGED it is of high importance that we can guarantee the safety of the products we offer to the consumer. Because it is crucial for us to manage the risks of selling products containing defects, which in turn might cause injury to our customers or harm the brand’s image, we have set up a risk protocol containing the safety standards that all our employees and suppliers have to conform to. However, without our wonderful employees, our product would never reach the customer. Our employees are extremely valuable to us, which is why it is very important to us to keep them safe from any hazards. We have therefore included safety standards for the workplace in our risk protocol, as well as the legislated working standards of the European Commission (De Raad van Europese Gemeenschappen, 1989) to make sure our employees get the working conditions they deserve. We do not only face risks in our own workplaces – transporting the goods from one place to another also poses a lot of potential risks. Thus, incoterms are included in our protocol to state clearly what the responsibilities of UNCAGED and its suppliers are. We have conducted a Product Risk Assessment as well as a Workplace Risk Assessment to check up on the severity of our risks at the start of our process. For the detailed Risk Assessment and more details on the Risk Management and Monitoring Protocol, please see page 38-42 of the appendix.
The team behind UNCAGED is challenging the leading image of women over the age of 50 whilst embracing their needs in a personal and direct way. Our first collection Redefined Icons is the proof that a circular and sustainable business model is compatible with fashion. The combination of creativity and commercialization recognizable in the autumn/winter collection 2018/2019 is in line with the expectations of our customer group. Our feasible start-up company is based on a truly sustainable and circular business concept minimizing the environmental impact in every part of the supply chain. UNCAGED achieves to step away from the harmful fast fashion system by using a historical practice in combination with a modern twist.
CONCLUSION
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APPENDIX
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Additional Information - Product Life Cycle: Sea Wool
= Steps which are happening constantly
UNCAGED has a cooperation with The Ocean Clean Up non-profit organization (Delft, Netherlands) as well as the Restaurant Oesterbeurs and Oesters & Bubbles (Yerseke, Netherlands). The partnership is based on the agreement that they collect and store the plastic from the ocean and the used oyster shells for our production of Sea Wool over a period of three months. Thus, the procedure has to start 3 ½ month before the actual fabric production is planned to take place.
The lead time for the production of the customized blouse is one day including the setting of the buttons and the labels.
The packaging process of the ocean plastic and the oyster shells at both locations will take approximately one day. A total transportation time of three hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) needs to be taken into account in order to transfer the packed boxes from Delft to Yerseke and afterwards to the Ecological Textiles supplier in Roermond.
UNCAGED encourages its customers to bring back the garments to store at the point when they do not want to have the items in their closets anymore. The customer can request a RePack package for free in case they do not have the time to return the worn garments to the store personally. We collect the garments over a period of 4 months before transporting them to the Recover factory (Spain) for shredding the garments and producing new fabrics out of it.
The production of the yarn followed by the production of Sea Wool has a lead time of 14-15 weeks (Breuer, 2014, p. 62). We have to consider a time period of two hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) to transport a part of the packed fabric from Roermond to our fabric storage next to the atelier in Diemen. The transfer of the smaller part of the produced Sea Wool to the Grenzlandfärberei in Bocholt takes one and a half hours (Google.de/maps, 2017). Piece-dyeing the produced Sea Wool has a lead time of 5 - 7 days. The process of transporting the dyed fabric to our atelier in Diemen requires one and a half hours (Google.de/maps, 2017). UNCAGED has 4 seamstresses working in the atelier following the traditional concept that each seamstress manufactures one whole garment. We need five ‘prototypes’ of the blouse in store (34, 36, 38, 40, 42). Thus, we have to calculate one and a half days for producing the prototypes of the blouse including the process of setting the sustainable buttons (buttons from Berbrand, Italy) and labels (from Britannia Garment Packaging) (Buttons: SAM 120, Labeling: SAM 20 (Studiedelen.mijnhva.nl, 2017)).
If our customer prefers to pick up the customized blouse in store the packaging and transportation can happen within one day. In case our customer wants to have the garment delivered to her home address the delivery time is dependant on the location of the home.
STORE
We want to implement the unique concept of the Recover factory for the process of creating new fabrics out of the used garments. The factory is based in Spain which requires us to transport the collected clothes to Banyeres de Mariola every 4 months with a transport lead time of about 19 hours (Google. de/maps, 2017). The process of shredding one blouse made of a 100% composition is done by industrial machines and will take about 20 minutes. The lead time for the new, strong fabrics made from the old garments takes about 14 weeks (Breuer, 2014, p. 62). A total transportation time of 22 hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) needs to be taken into account in order to transfer a part of the new created fabrics first to the fabric warehouse in Diemen and afterwards a part to the Grenzlandfärberei in Germany for the ultimate dye.
Due to the short distance between the atelier in Diemen and the store in the centre of Amsterdam, the transfer of the prototypes takes only 16 minutes (Google.de/maps, 2017).
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The process of measuring the customer with the help of our 3-D scanner, giving assistance by the individual customization of the blouse as well as the purchase of the garment occur within one day (exact: 3-D scanning 6 seconds (Sizestream, 2017), individual customisation by customer about one hour, online or in store purchase 10 minutes).
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Life Cycle Assessment Additional Information - General Product Life Cycle: Explanation of the steps that differ from the production of garments out of Sea Wool The product life cycle for garments made from Tencel, Viscose or Organic Cotton have a reduced transportation rate. The reason behind this is the omission of the transportation route of the collected plastic and oyster shells to the fabric supplier. Thus, the general product life cycle has the following transportation routes and times: 1.Transportation from Ecological Textiles supplier to atelier in Diemen: two hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) 2. Transfer from Ecological Textiles supplier to Grenzlandfärberei: one and a half hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) 3. Transportation from Grenzlandfärberei to fabric warehouse next to the atelier: one and a half hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) 4. Transportation from atelier to store in the centre of Amsterdam: 16 minutes (Google.de/maps, 2017) 5. Transportation time to home address of the customer: differs per location 6. Transfer from store to Recover factory: 19 hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) 7. Transportation time from Recover factory to the fabric warehouse and afterwards to the Grenzandfärberei: in total 22 hours (Google.de/maps, 2017) As we have knitted as well as woven fabrics the process of producing new fibres and fabrics out of the old garments takes place either through unwinding the product (knits) or shredding the garment (wovens) before transforming them into new fabrics. The process of unwinding is carried out by industrial machines and takes about 10 minutes per garment. The process of shredding is also done by industrial machines and needs about 20 minutes per piece. The overall lead time for the new created fabrics out of the old garments is about 14 weeks (Breuer, 2014, p. 62). The whole process takes place at the Recover factory in Spain.
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In this document, the life cycle of UNCAGED’s Oprah Blouse is assessed on its environmental impact, step by step. To ensure the validity of data and conclusions collected in this Life Cycle Assessment, UNCAGED uses the assessment procedures as standardized in the ISO 14040:2006 series for environmental management (International Standardizaion Organization, 2006).
1.
Goal and Scope Definition
Goal
Our goal for this lifecycle assessment is to map out all the steps of the lifecycle of one of our products, the Oprah Blouse, and to make an estimation of the individual impact of these steps on the environment. With this information, we wish to organize our product life cycle in such a way that our business processes are as environmentally friendly as possible.
Scope
To facilitate the life cycle assessment of the Oprah Blouse, we have decided to separate the life cycle of the product into five phases (Lyngaas, K.). I. Pre-production Phase II. Production Phase III. Distribution Phase IV. Utilisation Phase V. Disposal Phase
2.
Inventory Analysis
I. Pre-Production Phase Acquisition of raw materials
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
Transportation of raw materials to fabric manufacturer
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
Transformation of raw materials into yarn
Cleaners for raw materials, energy use, water use, waste materials, use of chemicals, water pollution
Transformation of yarn into fabric
Energy use, water use, waste materials, water pollution
Transportation of fabric to warehouse
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
Storing the fabric
Energy used for heat and lighting of warehouse
Manufacturing of prototypes
Energy and material use, waste due to incorrect prototypes
Transportation of fabric to dyeing factory
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
Dyeing of the fabric
Water use, use of chemicals, water pollution
Transportation to atelier
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
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II. Production Phase Assembly and finishing of the Oprah Blouse
Energy use, water use (steam), material waste
III. Distribution Phase
4.
Life Cycle Interpretation
1.
Transport emissions causing air pollution and the use of fuel
Now that we have assessed the impact of every step in our production, it is time for us to make decisions that will help us reduce our environmental impact.
Packaging
Use of paper and/or plastic
Transportation to customer
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
It is essential for us to have a lot of partners to realize the production of our unique fabric named Sea Wool. However, more partners mean that there will be more transportation necessary to transform the raw material into the garment that will eventually hang in our customer’s closet. To reduce the use of fuel and emissions of transporting, we have decided to work with Ecological Textiles located in Roermond, the Netherlands (Ecological Textiles, 2005). As it is not possible to do every single step of production within the Netherlands, any other factory we work with is located in Europe, to at least keep the travelling distance to a minimum. Additionally, we try to deliver all our orders within the Netherlands with PostNL’s electrical vehicles (PostNL, 2017) to further reduce our emissions.
Throwing away packaging
Waste of paper and/or plastic
2.
Energy Use
Maintenance: the washing, drying and ironing of the garment
Water use, energy use, bleach and detergent causing water pollution
3.
Water use and pollution
4.
Material Waste
5.
Paper and plastic use
IV. Utilisation Phase
V. Disposal Phase Possibility that the customer will throw the garment away
Garment ends on landfill
Transportation of used garment to shredding factory
Fuel use, transport emissions causing air pollution
Process of shredding and/or unwinding
Energy use
3.
Life Cycle Impact Assessment
As a result of an analysis of every step of our production process, we have identified 5 aspects that cause the most harm to the environment. 1. Transport emissions causing air pollution and the use of fuel 2. Energy use 3. Water use and pollution (use of chemicals or detergent) 4. Material waste 5. Paper and plastic use (packaging)
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We are aiming to set up guidelines for our employees to help reduce our energy use as a company. This includes turning off machines when they are not in use and turning off lights or the heating system when it is not necessary. Even though these steps might be small, in a growing company these things can make a huge difference. We have decided to exclusively work with manufacturers that comply to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Therefore, we trust that our manufacturers keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment (Global Organic Textile Standard, 2017).
Some phases in our production process generate waste, due to the fact that some raw materials, yarns or fabrics may not be up to our quality standards. We have therefore decided to collect all textile waste in containers and ship them to our fabric shredding factory together with the used garments, so that even our waste can have a second life. Packaging for clothing is often thrown away by the consumer, which we strive to avoid. Therefore, all of our garments will be delivered in a RePack packaging (RePack, 2017). The packaging is made out of recycled materials and can be reused at least twenty times. Additionally, the RePack service reduces CO2 emission by 80%. The customer can also request a RePack bag at UNCAGED for returning a garment at the end of its lifecycle.
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Product Risk Assessment
Workplace Risk Assessment
Assessed by: Sanne Lejeune Date of assessment: November 17th, 2017 Signed:
Assessed by: Sanne Lejeune Date of assessment: November 17th, 2017 Signed:
Severity (S) 1. None 2. Minor injury 3. Major injury 4. Major injury/death 5. Multiple deaths
Potetial Risk/Hazard Toxic substances coming into contact with skin
Unsecured Compon ents Loose ties
Small necklines Drawstrings or wide sleeves getting caught
Probability of Occurence (P) 1. Extremely unlikely 2. Very unlikely 3. Unlikely 4. Likely 5. Very likely
Result of Occurrence The customer can absorb toxic chemicals, which will have an impact on her health. Children coming into contact with a garment might s wallow small, loose parts. Loose ties coming into contact with children might cause strangulation. Small necklines might cause choking Drawstrings hanging loose or wide garments might get stuck. Risk of injuries for customer.
Flammability of garment Unfunctionality of garment components Clothing defects
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Risk to brand reputation and possibility of recall or financial liability costs. Risk to brand reputation and possibility of recall or financial liability costs.
Risk Level (R) Low Medium High
Severity (S) 1. None 2. Minor injury 3. Major injury 4. Major injury/death 5. Multiple deaths
Precaution to control risk
S
P
R
Protocol guideline 2a
3
2
L
Protocol guideline 2c
4
2
M
Protocol guideline 2b
4
1
L
Protocol guideline 2d Protocol guideline 2b
4 4
2 1
M
4
2
M
Protocol guideline 2e
1
2
L
1
3
Risk Level (R) Low Medium High
Result of Occurrence
Precaution to control risk
S
R
Protocol guideline 3c, 3e
5
M
Chemical explosion
Danger to visitors and employees Danger to visitors and employees
Protocol guideline 3b, 3e
Fire hazard
5
M
Dangerous machines or tools
Potential hazard of injuries to the bodies of employees
Protocol guideline 3f, 3g, 3h, 3j
4
H
Bad hygiene
Emotional distress caused to employees
Protocol guideline 3a
1
L
Exposure to toxic agents
Danger to visitors and employees
Protocol guideline 2a, 3e, 3k
4
M
Exposure to noise
Potential hazard of injuries to the bodies of employees
Protocol guideline 3i
2
L
Crime
Loss of stock or equipment
Protocol guideline 3d and 3e
1
M
Natural disasters
Potential hazard of injuries to the bodies of employees
Protocol guideline 3l
5
M
Instability of building
Potential hazard of injuries to the bodies of employees
Protocol guideline 3l
5
L
Slipping and tripping
Potential hazard of injuries to the bodies of employees
Protocol guideline 3f 4
H
L
Protocol guideline 1a, 1c and 1d
Protocol guideline 1b, 1e and 2e.
Potetial Risk/Hazard
Probability of Occurence (P) 1. Extremely unlikely 2. Very unlikely 3. Unlikely 4. Likely 5. Very likely
M
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Risk Management and Monitoring Protocol This document represents and agreement between [CLIENT] and UNCAGED. The agreement was made on [DATE] and enters into effect immediately. As a company, we feel obliged to guarantee the safety of the products we offer to our consumer, as well as the safety of the locations where we produce those products. UNCAGED has therefore designed a risk management and monitoring protocol to reduce possible risks for our consumer, employees and the environment and to make sure that the adherence to the protocol is monitored. We expect all of our suppliers and employees to maintain the standards we have set and sign this protocol. Any dispute to this agreement will be mediated in accordance with all federal and state laws. UNCAGED is following the International Organization for Standardization’s standards for the clothing industry (International Standardization Organization, 2017) to avoid any potential risk. ISO’s standards include the standardization of test methods, terms and definitions and guidance on health and environmental issues. The standards we wish our manufacturers to conform to include:
1.
ISO Norms – Product Risks
a. b.
ISO 6940:2004 – burning behaviour of textile fabrics. ISO 8559-1:2017 – principles of measurement and how to create the correct size and shape profiles of all garment types. c. ISO 9240:1992 – design of apparel for reduced fire hazard. d. ISO 10528:1995 and ISO 12138:1996 – the effect of repeated commercial and domestic laundering on flammability of textile fabrics. e. ISO 59.080.30 – methods for assessing and analyzing garments on possible defects such as dimensional change, water resistance, thickness, seam tensile properties, color fastness, etc. As an addition to the ISO norms, UNCAGED has developed a list of additional norms that are crucial to minimize the risk of our products:
2.
Additional Norms – Product risks
a. To avoid the use of toxic substances and move towards a toxic-free future, we have joined Greenpeace’s Detox movement (Greenpeace, 2011) towards a future where dangerous chemicals are no longer produced, used and released into our environment. b. While designing our products, we bear in mind that no parts such as strings are hanging loose, or no sleeves can get caught in handles. c. Quality checks in our atelier should assure that all components of our garments are properly secured, to for example avoid choking in case of contact with children. d. We use a neck stretch minimum template (HCL Asia Ltd, 2003) to avoid strangulation e. To assure the general quality of our product, quality checks take place after every stage of our production phase.
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It is very important that the products that we distribute are safe, but it is equally important that the places where we produce them provide safety to our employees. UNCAGED uses the following ISO norms to ensure this:
3.
ISO Norms– Workplace risks
a. ISO 13.100 – requirements and tests for industrial hygiene b. ISO 13.220 – fire protection c. ISO 13.230 – explosion protection d. ISO 13.310 – protection against crime e. ISO 13.320 – requirements and tests for alarm and warning systems for public work areas. f. ISO 13.340 – safety measures, such as protective equipment as well as protection against falling and slipping. g. ISO 59.120 – textile machinery requirements h. ISO 10821:2005 – safety requirements applicable to industrial sewing machines, units and systems used in the clothing industry. i. ISO 11690-3:1997 – recommendations concerning the use of noise prediction as an aid for noise control. j. ISO/IEC guide 25 – requirements for cutting tools, industrial machines, hand-held tools and surface treatments. k. ISO/TC 146/SC2 – requirements and test methods for a good air quality in the workplace. l. ISO 22.301 – helps enhance resiliency and response in the event of operational disruptions, ranging from a large-scale natural catastrophe to an act of terror.
4.
Working Conditions
We feel like norms for the workplace don’t cover all risks an employee faces on a daily basis. We aim to give our employees the working conditions they deserve, which is why we chose to adhere to the legislated standards of the European Comission (De Raad van Europese Gemeenschappen, 1989). These legislated standards help us meet with WELLMADE’s eight most important working conditions: a. No forced labour b. No discrimination and harassment c. No child labour d. The right to organize e. Fair wages f. No excessive overtime g. Health and safety guarantee h. Legal employment
5.
Incoterms
Of course our risks don’t stop at our workplace. During the transport of our fabric and finished goods, our company faces a lot of risks. Therefore, we have chosen to work with the following incoterm (Transport Warehousing Customs, 2010) to make sure the responsibility of all parties involved is clear: FCA – Free Carrier The reason we have decided to work with the FCA conditions, is because we feel like the responsibilities are equally divided between the manufacturer and us. In the case of FCA, the manufacturer will be responsible for the dispatch note, possible export documents and the loading of the ordered products into our trucks. UNCAGED will carry responsibility for the organization of the transport and the 41 insurance of the products.
DEMAND CALCULATIONS
6.
Monitoring Process
Just setting up guidelines and stating norms for avoiding risks won’t do the job. For UNCAGED, it was very important to appoint appropriate employees to keep up the risk management and monitor whether one complies with our protocol. In the table below, you can find the responsible people for all above mentioned tasks and the timing of their tasks.
Responsible
Task
Timing
Textile Manufacturer
1a, 1c, 1d, 1e, 2a
Before delivery to UNCAGED
Head Patternmaker
1b, 2e
Every order
Head Designer
2b, 2d, 2e
During and after design process
Head Seamstress
2c, 2e
When garment is finished
Workplace Safety Responsible
3a until 3l
Weekly
Employee Health and Safety Responsible
4a until 4h
Monthly
7. Verification We, the undersigned, do hereby accept this contract as stated above:
Client: Date:
Agent: Date:
Survey by
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SOURCE LIST HAVARD STYLE
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