MA Dissertation

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W KATHERINE CHEN T2051778 COURSE LEADER: ALEXANDRA HANFORD

AN EVALUATION OF THE DIFFERENCE IN 1 CONSUMER PURCHASING BEHAVIOURS OF BEAUTY PRODUCTS BETWEEN MALES FROM EASTERN AND WESTERN CULTURES FASH 40083


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10,671 Words


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I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be unture I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook.

Signed: Katherine Chen Date: 25 July 2014


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CONTENT

CHAPTER 1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

CHAPTER 2 11

INTRODUCTION

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2.1. Study Justification 2.2 Research Questions 2.3 Research Aims 2.4 Research Objectives


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CONTENT

CHAPTER 3 METHODOLOGY

CHAPTER 4 23

LITERATURE REVIEW

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3.1 Research Methodology

4.1 Consumer behaviour

3.2 Research strategy: Questionnaires retails research and trade show interview

4.2 Prohibited masculinity links

3.3 Theoretical Models and secondary data

4.5 Cosmetics, males and self-appearance

3.4 Primary Data, Collection and Analysis 3.4.1 Consumer survey 3.4.2 Industry and beauty trade show short interview

4.3 Masculinity and femininity

4.6 Segmentation of male cosmetics market 4.7 Development of the industry 4.8 The market Leaders 4.9 Purchasing behaviour of men


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CONTENT

CHAPTER 5 FINDINGS & DISCUSSION

CHAPTER 6 47

5.1 Consumption of men’s cosmetics 5.2 Influence of external factors 5.3 Consumer behaviour between males from Western and Eastern Countries 5.4 Perceptions about the current male beauty industry 5.5 Discussion

CONCLUSION

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CONTENT

CHAPTER 7 RECOMMENDATION

CHAPTER 8 77

REFERENCE

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7.1 Product

List of Illustrations

7.2 Price

List of Rerference

7.3 Place 7.4 Promotion 7.5 People 7.6 Physical environment 7.7 Process


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CHAPTER 1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY


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Fig 2: Jon Kortajarena & Sean O’Pry for Zara Fall Winter 2012


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This research was conducted based on a presumed argument maintaining that the highly increased expansion of beauty brands in Asia and Europe in the male market, yet failed to satisfy the considerable needs of this segment. For all that significant changes happening in the Asia and Europe and the incredible purchase power of the male customers, there are still a large number of marketers and beauty retailers hold a wait-and-see attitude with reference to accepting the segment as a promising and lucrative market. Different from the majority of older male form of decades years ago, current male are characterized by high level of activity, education and broad interests, who are inclined to present a positive attitude to their self-image. Given this circumstance, both the product and distribution process should explicitly take into consideration this new fact. This research has employed a multi-method approach including an industry interview and a nation-wide random sample investigation. A total of 823 male from European countries and 763 male from Eastern countries respondents completed questionnaire for the quantitative data while 5 male respondents provided qualitative data through the participation in interviews. The results indicate that men from eastern and western cultures consume cosmetics and beauty products with the main goal of maintaining their image and taking care of their body. It was established in the study that both male from European countries and Asian countries felt that taking care of themselves was important and that they felt more self-confident when purchasing and using men’s cosmetics. However, the survey suggests that self-perception among males from eastern and western countries of their self-image are different. This may be attributed to the fact that generally, young men’s purchasing behaviour towards cosmetics is influenced strongly by personal and cultural factors. Therefore, it is important to provide a positive brand experience and for marketers of cosmetic products to develop awareness through utilizing proper marketing and

communication tools. These central areas covered by the research were essential to understand the male consumers’ consumption of beauty products and ultimately could have a significant impact on educating male on the products and appropriate retail offers. Nevertheless, the marketing efforts must be made so as to persuade these men to buy new brands and products.


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Fig 3: Kurt Iswarienko


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CHAPTER 2 INTRODUCTION


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The cultural and social ideals explaining masculinity have been continuously advancing and changing. It has also been noted that for the past few years, mass media have been a true persuasive instrument for shaping a country’s images ideals. This has been manifested more among males than on their female counterparts since a perfect image of men has been used persistently in various films, televisions and advertising media. In other words, this exposure has created awareness of an ideal male image in the mind-set of men, thus encouraging them to place a certain degree of focus and attention on body image, which at the same time is linked, to an increase of their selfesteem. For this reason, men like the idea of building confidence through modifying body image since it helps them attain personal objectives such as social relationships and career progression. Nonetheless, if a good image has direct links to success, most of them would reconsider how they represent themselves. With the reinforced principle of good image linking to success, chances are, men are more likely to reconsider how they represent themselves. As reported by Elsey and Sukato (2009), the men’s cosmetic products market is expanding rapidly among eastern and western countries alike. In fact as established by Conseur (2004), the rate of growth of men’s beauty market is twice that woman since men are currently willing to spend more on grooming. In addition, there are indications that men’s expenditure on beauty products was 24% more in 2013 compared to 2012 and that the UK market for skin care products is worth £600m. A number of studies have also pointed out that the Asian markets are also reporting higher demand for beauty products for the males just like the western markets (Gotting 2003). In the same manner, the young men in Asian countries today want to be associated with western cultures and are greatly influenced by celebrity endorsements for the men’s cosmetics. Some of the major Asian countries that have high consumption of men’s cosmetics include UAE, India, Japan, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore, Pakistan and South Korea. To sum up, social factors like social class; culture, families, individual characteristics and groups have significantly increased the change in behaviour of consumers in the Asian countries. Instead of focusing on female market, the main purpose of this research is to explore the male beauty industry and study the status quo of current male market arguing that high requirements and needs of male consumers are not completely satisfied. The developing space for male consumer in Asian and European beauty industry; the characteristics of the particular segment; as well as constructive improvements to meet specific demands of male consumers have also been illustrated in this study. The study result is able to provide assisting innovative new points, which could satisfy demands and requirements of male consumers meanwhile serving as a source of additional fortune for numerous beauty firms. Through gaining a clear understanding of the male beauty market, organizations could probably obtain competitive advantages and realize considerable profit increase with the largely unexploited male beauty market.

2.1 study justification Considering justification for the study, it is observed that the present research is justified due to the fact that, previous studies focused on purchasing behaviours of male consumers towards beauty products, none of them compared male consumers’ purchasing behaviour in Europe and Asia. However, because the main companies engaged in selling cosmetic products of men in Asian and European markets are mostly multinationals, it implies that this study’s findings are significant to such companies, since they will enable them to compare the purchasing behaviour of men in the two markets, hence adopt competitive marketing strategies.


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Fig 4: Mysterious Armani 2011, Fashionsing


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2.2 Research Questions - What factors influence the use cosmetics products amongst males in eastern and western countries? - Is there a difference between eastern and western males in consumption of cosmetics? -What is the attitude of male consumers towards purchasing cosmetics in eastern and western cultures? - What are some of the factors that can drive male to consumer men’s cosmetics? - What do financial and fashion analysts forecast for men’s cosmetics industry in the future? 2.3 Research Aims - To determine whether climate and other factors influence consumption of men’s cosmetics among males from eastern and western countries - To examine the consumer behaviour among males from eastern and western countries

2.3 Research Aims - To determine whether climate and other factors influence consumption of men’s cosmetics among males from eastern and western countries - To examine the consumer behaviour among males from eastern and western countries - To find out why some consumers are not using/purchasing men’s cosmetics - To determine whether different marketing strategies influence males from eastern and western countries


Fig 5: Kao Yi Xiang for SK-II Men

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2.4 Research Objectives - To evaluate self-perception of males from both western and eastern countries regarding their image - To establish why men from western and eastern countries consumed beauty products - To determine which factors influence male from western and eastern countries to purchase cosmetics - To develop recommendations on how retail experience for men’s cosmetics can be enhanced in eastern and western cultures


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CHAPTER 3 METHODOLOGY


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Fig 6: Men’s Tuesdays, Carven 2013


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3.1 Research Methodology As noted by Patton (2002) and Saunders et al. (2012) a research methodology mainly focuses on the research methods and techniques that are applied by a research in order to ensure that the aims and objectives of the study are achieved. In that view, it can thus be noted that in this chapter, the research method and techniques that will be used in the proposed study are discussed. According to Matthews and Ross (2010) when developing a research study it is important to ensure that the research method will achieve the aim and objectives, and therefore it is necessary to consider the research approach and strategy and their feasibility. As far as the proposed study is concerned, it can be noted that an interpretivist or exploratory approach is preferable because this will provide a framework, which will help the researcher to understand consumer behaviour in respect of eastern and western cultures. It is also been determined that a mixed methods approach is sensible implying that the research will entail both a qualitative research and a quantitative research. The rationale for opting to use mixed research methods is because as noted by Cresswell (2006), mixed research method helps ensure that the researcher get an in-depth understanding of the research subjects since two research approaches are used.

3.2 Research strategy: Questionnaires, retails research and trade show interview

Bryman and Bell (2011) and Vael (1997) explain that using alternative methods helps to reduce the inherent risks associated with purely quantitative or purely qualitative approach. Therefore, the decision has been taken in this study to gather primary quantitative data in the form of questionnaire so that the demographics of the research population can be established. To complement this, qualitative data will be captured in the form of interviews in order to allow research participants to expand upon their thoughts and perceptions, According to Matthews and Ross (2010) the benefit of a questionnaire is that it can provide statistical information for the researcher, which has a high degree of internal reliability. However, the risk of the questionnaire is that it does not afford research participants the opportunity to explain the responses in any depth, and it is therefore the responsibility of the researcher to interpret the numerical data. On the other hand, interviews are an excellent way of capturing qualitative data (Bryman and Bell, 2011). This offer the research participants the opportunity to explain the unique perspective on a given situation scenario. Therefore according to Saunders et al (2012) they are particularly useful social sciences research, and hence they have a particular application in this study, which is looking to understand consumer behavior upon the eastern and western. Unfortunately the risk of interviews is that they are bounded by resource factors such as the opportunity and availability to interview a large research population (Bryman and Bell, 2011; Cohen and Manion, 2006). Therefore, using a mixed methods approach helps overcome the risk of both approaches.


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Fig 7: JUAN BETANCOURT: EL ROSTRO DE LA NUEVA LÍNEA DE GROOMING DE TOM FORD


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Fig 8: Machiaj de mireasa – propuneri si stiluri de machiaj de nunta


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3.3 Theoretical Models and secondary data

3.4.1 Consumer survey

To get a better formulation and comprehension of the research issues and enrich the research grounds based on which to draw comprehensive conclusions, a secondary research has been conducted. The merits of secondary research are argued to be rapid and reliable with reference to the verification process and related information obtained from the study, which laid solid foundation for constructive conclusions (Ghaurl & Gronhaug, 2002, p.78). To gain comprehensive research results, further develop research problems so as to provide academic support for following studies, a variety of literature resource have been employed which are proven to be critical to configure valid concept and content meanwhile succeed in offering precise data source (Cohen et al., 2011). Although the current research mainly used primary data, the use of secondary data was vital to gather relevant information and data regarding the male consumer behavior and perception about men’s cosmetics (Wengraf 2001). In addition, the investigator was able to provide detailed information about the men’s beauty market, consumer buying behavior and related theoretical models such as Hofstede’s cultural dimensions and Diffusion of innovations, extended marketing mix, PESTEL analysis (Appendixes: Questionnaire) is referred to as a critical approach of great value to the study since it is capable of offering significant understanding related to consumers’ interests, values, motivations and their way of life as well as predicable insights into the male beauty segment in Asian and Western market.

To have a better understanding of the consumers’ behaviour, demands, preferences with reference to buying beauty products, and their usual way of life and their opinions about the male beauty market in Asia and Europe, this research develops a consumer survey (Appendixes: Questionnaire). The questionnaire consists of two main parts: standardized questions and an interview involving five respondents mainly emphasizing on the clarity, reliability and effectiveness of related questions. The consumer survey was mainly completed through the Internet, with more flexibility and highquality data this approach can be accomplished in a relatively short period (Hair et al., 2007). This survey involving approximately 870 European male respondents with different social background, from different cities and with different income level was implemented during the whole April 2014. Primary channel to deliver the questionnaire to respondents is a prevalent social media website, Facebook. This method mainly focuses on gathering wide, random, and impartial sample group and reliable research data to offer further support to the secondary and primary researches. Descriptive statistics was employed to analyse the data collected from consumer survey, which could provide a clear and effective communication of complicated research problems (Hair et al., 2007).

3.4 Primary Data, Collection and Analysis It is not possible to merely rely on secondary research to reach comprehensive results, which means additional data collected through primary research is of great necessity to answer related problems. Given this circumstance, various approaches making use of consumer surveys, industry short interviews and trade show interviews are needed to collect primary data in relation to research issues. Through which to get a better perspective and observation of consumers’ specific needs and preferences, the way they dealing with various problems during shopping. According to Bryman (2004) and Horn (2009), the adoption of multi approaches enables a higher reliability and validity of the research outcomes and stronger confidence for researchers to find problems from different perspectives.

3.4.2 Industry and Beauty trade show short interview Four brands were interviewed separately during the beauty trade show, and they were asked a series of short questions about their perceptions of current and future trends of men’s beauty products, which was located at NEC the arena, Birmingham. A industry short interview was conducted with the main aim being to achieve a clearer understanding of the male beauty products, as well as their perspectives regarding the current male beauty industry status in both Taiwan and UK. Horn (2009), points out that it is extremely important to adhere to best practice principles of research ethics when conducting primary research. This includes obtaining informed consent from the research participants, and ensuring that their confidentiality is maintained. Accordingly, all of the research participants were advised of the purpose of the research and they were reassured that the details remain confidential, and that the outcome of the research will be used purely for academic purposes. The ethics forms for this research are contained in the Appendix.


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CHAPTER 4 LITERATURE REVIEW


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Fig 9: New Dior makeup shot by Laziz Hamani


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onsumer behaviour is influenced by their culture. A number of past reports and studies point out that consumer behaviour among males varies across cultures based on cultural dimensions (Hofstede 2001; Beresford 2010). Sukato and Elsey (2009) argue that eastern culture differs from western culture, hence understanding the cultural variations are vital to developing successful retail experience for target markets. In addition, marketers must understand that their advertising strategies must be tailored towards the market of that specific culture. It was also posited by De Chernatony, McDonald and Wallace (2011) that UAE, India, UK and Italy have varied advertising strategies with female endorsements higher in the UK and Italy compared to UAE and India. The pursuit of health and attractiveness also occurs in males and not just females; for this reason, cosmetics have gained increased recognition among males of all ages from Asian countries and European countries thus making its market larger and wider. According to Hirschman (2010), culture has a great influence on the men’s buying behaviour and the cultural values also influence the consumer behaviour. Given that different nations have different cultures and values, their markets would therefore have different consumption patterns. In eastern societies, the values influence a number of consumption patterns and behaviour. For example: information search, memorizing and learning processes, perception of aesthetics, loyalty and attitude towards cosmetic products, and the frequency of purchase. Moreover, the men’s cosmetics market in Asian countries like South Korea, Japan and Singapore are well developed.

The culture in Asian countries appears to be changing, as more people appear to be embracing the western cultural norms such as the use of men’s cosmetics. This may be attributed to the influence of Internet, globalization, and the entry of multinational cosmetic firms in Asian countries. In western societies, Kolman et al. (2003) indicates that men are not expected to consume aesthetic products since it threatens their masculinity. However, western society tend to be open minded thus consider the use of makeup and cosmetics as vital for maintaining their appearance/image rather than reducing their masculinity. In the opinion of Hirschman (2010), marketing men’s cosmetics in western countries tend to involve a straightforward approach unlike in Asian countries where indirect expression is involved. For instance, in China, human emotions and symbolic values are considered in advertising men’s cosmetics therefore utilitarian value and product quality is emphasized. The men’s cosmetics market in western countries is larger than in Asian countries as younger males in European countries are interested in attractiveness and older males are making efforts to prevent aging of their skin. Nevertheless, the males from the Asian countries are also more willing to consume new skin care products leading to expansion of men’s cosmetic product range.

Fig 10: Dior Homme Dermo System


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4.1 Consumer behaviour Yang and Peterson (2004) argues that male consumers value their self-image, appearance and self esteem. Consequently, self-image is considered as important for maintaining relations in a social class among males from eastern and western countries. This implies that social integration is enhanced by self-image and selfconfidence. In this regards, males from eastern and western countries purchase grooming products in order to improve their body image and appearance. To specify, they have become more comfortable with buying cosmetic products since they believe it does not in any way correlate with a less masculine self-image (Thompson 2004). Men from eastern and western cultures consume cosmetics and beauty products with the main goal of maintaining their image and taking care of the their body. In addition, beauty care is associated with youth, health, social status and beauty (Sun, Horn and Merritt 2004). In addition, the business world also encourages good appearance, which makes men place emphasis on aesthetics for the sake of their appearance and selfconfidence. With advertising and marketing strategies of cosmetic companies, male consumers have been told and convinced that men should follow fashion and pay attention to their appearance. In other words, contemporary men acknowledge the need for having a body image that is attractive, which is evident by the fact that men’s perception of beauty has been changing over the years.

According to Jones (2006), location impacts on frequency of purchase and buying habits. For instance, men residing in towns have different needs from those in rural areas. Moreover, new trends always begin in large cities such as the concept of metrosexual. Another social factor mentioned by Sukato and Elsey (2009) was age since younger generations tend to be more openminded compared to older generations hence engaging more in purchasing cosmetics. On the other hand, social class is characterized by level of education, professional environment and income level therefore various social classes have different lifestyles. In this regard, men consider staying competitive through appearance and good status in order to belong to the desired social class (Gotting 2003). In essence, every individual belongs to various groups and a number of people’s purchasing behaviours are motivated primarily by their desire to identify themselves with desirable groups. Antoinette (2005) notes that men can easily consume beauty products in cases where their families are supportive and value the cosmetics. Culture also influences purchasing as confirmed by Putrevu (2008). The level of income influences the level of cosmetics consumption; for instance, men with higher income are more likely to afford a variety of cosmetic products. This indication is also in line with the needs hierarchy by Maslow (researcher). Metrosexual is urban and straight men that are often keen on the home - design, fashion trends, personal concerned services and gourmet cooking (Cheng, Ding and Fan 2010). Hence, they are the ‘new males’. In the past few decades, advertisement and media were used to represent the ideal metrosexual models that attach high importance to aesthetics to enhance their lifestyle and images. Consequently, metrosexual have trends and new lifestyle and believe they are people who are virile and challenge the traditional masculine values. However, metrosexuals should not be confused with androgynous or the homosexuals.


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4.2 Prohibited masculinity links Sukato and Elsey (2009) mentioned that the use of make-ups is mostly affiliated with females; hence the involvement of men in taking care of their body and skin using cosmetics can be labelled as being homosexual or gay. Hence, as men desire to improve their appearance and body image, they fear being associated with the gay lifestyle. Therefore, men do not consider purchasing the buying the products that have gay connotation. In the opinion of Demir and Yuzbasioglu (2011), the society in general associate men who use cosmetics to be ‘gay’ and this is the main reason why a considerable number of men do not purchase beauty products directly but through their spouses. According to Kim et al. (2013), there is a big ‘gay’ market that remains unexploited. In essence, this community considers attractiveness and fashion to be very essential for their social group; hence they are attracted to the cosmetics industry. Generally, ‘gay’ community has higher income and purchasing power compared to ordinary people given that they do not have the responsibility of taking care of ‘children and spouses’ thus they have more financial freedom to spend on cosmetic products themselves. However, cosmetic marketers find it difficult to target this segment since they are a ‘hard to reach groups’. 4.3 Masculinity and femininity Hirschman, E. C., (2010) stressed that the ‘evolution’ of women also affects the behaviour of men. Women today go to work and no longer remain at home since they have the opportunity to be educated and are employed as doctors and other professions like their male counterparts. This implies that femininity and masculinity gap has been narrowed significantly. Hyman (2004) advised that traditionally, men were considered tough, competitive and assertive while women were considered to be concerned with caring for children, grooming the house and caring for the community in general. However, the feminist revolution has levelled the gender discrepancy in society and more importantly in gender ideals, which, includes the stereotypical men’s strong image and masculinity. Furthermore, Koubaa and Ulvoas (2011) mentioned that there are nations where men and women express same tender - nurturing values, hence women learn to behave as men and men also learn femininity. As a result, ‘new man’ has been found to engage in tasks and behaviours that were previously associated with females such as grooming, cosmetic product usage and valuing appearance and beauty.


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Putrevu (2008) considered that a number of the advertisements communicate messages that enlighten the societies that cosmetic products for men are meant to enhance and treat the men’s body and face while retaining their masculinity. Kimmel and Aronson (2004) reasoned that the frequent exposure of the society to such messages and advertisements has made people to accept gradually that cosmetic products can be used by men. In addition, consumers are pushed by social order to attain a satisfactory body image and appearance as set in the beauty standard. Consequently, there is a huge change in men that requires a new definition of ‘masculinity’.

Fig 11: Michelangelo’s David (1501-1504) Galleria dell’Accademia


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4.4 Cosmetics, males and self-appearance A number of past studies have been conducted to understand why men are concerned about cosmetics and appearance (Antoinette 2009). Consequently, Cheng, Ding and Fan (2010) reports that males generally want to maintain the traditional ‘masculinity’ while at the same time adapt to new attitudes and lifestyles. On their part, Janowska (2008) concluded that the experience of using products was an important factor in cosmetic usage among men and that some men rebel the traditional beauty ‘rule’ by adopting different and unique styles. A number of men are involved in routine grooming such as showering, hair styling, shaving, using fragrance and using skin lotions. Other studies have also tried to relate cosmetic products, their competence and performance with consumption among young males.

4.5 Segmentation of male cosmetics market In the opinion of Julie and Michael (2002), men’s beauty products have varied market segments ranging from young men to older men. Thus, young men are potential future clients and are targeted by marketers because they care less about the perception of society regarding cosmetic products. On the other hand, older men have higher income and more purchasing power. In addition, older men want to look younger . Older men form a good market segment as noted by Kimmel and Aronson (2004) since a majority of them fear ageing skin thus maintain them using skin care products. Other market segments include metrosexual, bachelor and homosexual since they all consume men’s cosmetics. Interestingly, women as a market segment for men’s cosmetics have also been revealed by L’Oréal Report (2010) given that they advise their ‘husbands’ on the cosmetic use and even purchase for them these cosmetic products.


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Fig 12: Fashion men part II


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Fig 13: Gerard Butler photography


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4.6 Development of the industry Meunier (2004) established that in the past few decades, men’s cosmetics market was largely ignored by most companies concentrating on women’s beauty products. The main reason was that this market was regarded as a niche. However, a number of brands were developed since the 1980s and 1990s to cater to men’s hygiene and appearance such as Biotherm and Nickel. However, it is in the past decade that there has been an increase in the number of cosmetic brands targeting men. This has led to the clear differentiation of the women’s market and men’s market for cosmetic products. In essence, these products promote the appearance of men and tend to have varied qualities such as having efficient results, less complicated, invisible, and pleasant. Meunier (2004) indicates that narcissism and appearance have become the ‘new’ man’s major attributes as the ‘new man’ seeks the self-concept. Accordingly, marketers target these men by developing cosmetics that enable them to attain their dream of being attractive and presentable. This has resulted in the rapid development and blossoming of the men’s cosmetics coupled with the change in relationship between cosmetic products and men. It was also reported by Moungthong, Pamittasil and Ungtaworndee (2008) that there are varied changes in perception, mentality, and attitude towards appearing young or using cosmetics, homosexual liberalization, the emergence of metrosexuals and the changes in masculine generation. There are also a number of market opportunities as the market segments have been identified. Nair et al. (2007) forecasted that the cosmetic market for males will continue to expand following the increasing social pressures and need for improving professional appearance by corporate. The personal care products for males have a big potential for growth as illustrated in the table below and will soon experience an explosive growth (Souiden and Diagne 2009). Swoboda et al. (2009) explains that increased growth of male cosmetics is attributed to advanced innovation of the products, effective advertisement and product launches. In particular, the market value of men’s toiletries and cosmetics market globally was 21.7bn in 2006 and rose to 26bn in 2008. However, deodorants and shaving category accounted for 70% of the total men’s cosmetics markets in 2006. Reports by Tan (2008) indicate global men’s cosmetics sales increased in 2011 by $3.5bn. In Europe, male cosmetics have been growing at a rate of about 7-8% annually. Souiden and Diagne (2009) shared their opinion that the men’s cosmetics market in eastern countries has been growing at the fastest rate compared to other markets such as Latin America and European market. This can be attributed to the increasing acceptance of men’s cosmetics among males in eastern countries. Moreover, men’s cosmetics have grown at a faster rate 9.4%, which is higher than the rate for women’s cosmetics at 4.8. %. In fact, Hong Kong was the biggest market for the cosmetics for men at $974.8m followed by South Korea at $635m. More men are consuming men’s cosmetics due to increased advertisement efforts, for instance, celebrity endorsements in South Korea. Consequently, five Asian countries are among the top ten countries in men’s cosmetics market share (Tan 2008). Coad, D. (2008) discovered that the western market for men’s cosmetics is also very large and continues to expand as men have considered using other men’s cosmetics such as moisturizing soap and eyeliners. Men from North America spent $286.4m compared to $682.9m from their counterparts in Western Europe in the same year. The men’s cosmetics firms have a greater opportunity as the market has the potential for growth compared to the cosmetics market for women.


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4.7 The market Feng (2008) argued that the cosmetic market for men has been increasing tremendously leading to a number of industrial stakes. For instance, men are searching for cosmetics that are easy to apply, but have convincing results; hence firms must invest intensively in the R&D activities. Other stakes include providing competitive prices for cosmetic products for men and developing effective distribution to reach the market niche. Barnier and Rodina (2005) attested that the cosmetic market for men commands a relatively smaller share, compared to the cosmetic market for women. However, the main market actors identified in the cosmetic market for men include the industry leaders, independent makers and the care actors. Specifically, industry leaders include EstĂŠe Lauder, Beiersdorf and Clarins with various product choices for the male consumers. The care actors in particular refer to the institutes and pharmacies, and these actors make use of their knowledge and credibility to offer services to the male consumers. Independent makers in the market play another important role since they also stimulate the cosmetics market by offering customized services to male consumer segment. Analysis of the competition in the male cosmetic market can be better understood based on the supplier and customer power, and the new entrance and substitute threats. According to Draelos and Lauren (2006), firms must develop effective strategies such as scale economies, high level of R&D and sustainable policies in order to avoid threats from the new entrances. However, Barnier and Rodina (2005) notes that the threat of substitutes is very low. In terms of the power of suppliers, their power is also

believed to be less given that the market niche. In addition, Yang and Peterson (2004) maintained that the distribution channel is a vital strategy for firms dealing in cosmetics for men. Hence distribution may involve the use of online stores where men’s cosmetics can be purchased online unlike the offline channel of distribution. However, the most common distribution channel involves the peculiarities, superstores, and other selling points such as institutes and the pharmacies where medical experts are involved. Craig and Douglas (2006) affirm that the male cosmetic products can also be sold in the perfumeries with the aim of maintaining the image of luxury and quality at premium prices. Similarly, Thompson (2004) indicated that brand positioning is another important strategy used by companies in the cosmetic market. In essence, certain brands associate with masculinity and beautiful skin to indicate the ideal man who has high self-esteem and confidence. In addition, male cosmetic brands may also be represented as being sophisticated and from a very high social class. Examples of brands with varied advertisement and positioning include Nivea, Nickel, and Biotherm among others.


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Fig 14: Enknyc Men’s Grooming/Skincare


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Fig 15: Teruonishi cosmetics


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4.8 Purchasing behaviour of men In the opinion of Conseur (2004), self-concept encompasses an individual’s opinion, belief and attitudes towards their attributes, capabilities, and existence, which make the concepts relate to various characteristics including demographic factors. Elsey and Sukato (2009) simply posited that self -concept model enables understanding of attitude of individuals, which influences their behaviour and their perception about products. This suggests that purchasing intentions are impacted by attitudes developed towards the product. Generally, self -concept has a number of components, including social, psychological and physical attributes that influence the habits, ideas, attitudes and beliefs of individuals. Feng (2008) affirms that cosmetics are used by men to enhance their image and self-concept. Self esteem can be high or low where high esteem implies being responsible, defending one’s beliefs and acceptance of self actions and self appearance while low esteem implies one tries to impress other people and judge one’s self based on the perceptions of others. Consequently, how individuals feel greatly impact on their perception of the world. In addition, Coad (2008) notes that self-esteem includes four main types, namely general esteem, social esteem (relationship with family and friends), physical esteem (physical appearance and physical ability) and academic esteem (intellectual abilities). Hence self-esteem can be understood as worthiness or competence. According to Cole (2008), the vision of one’s picture, femininity, intelligence, masculinity, physical appearance and attractiveness can be described as self -image. Hence an ideal self –image can be unattainable when family and friends or the society have a negative perception and evaluations of the individual. To be more effective and self-confident, an individual must be satisfied with their image since it enhances relations. The study by Barel, Paye and Maibach (2001) indicated that perceptions towards purchasing cosmetics among males are related to their self-image since cosmetic products promote and encourage a positive and strong self-image.


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CHAPTER 5 DISCUSSIONS & FINDING


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Fig 16: La collection privĂŠe christian dior

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Fig 17: Men consumer questionnaire


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3.1

CONSUMPTION OF MEN’S COSMETICS

The perception of respondents about which of the cosmetics they regarded to be men’s varied considerably. In essence, shaving foam, deodorant, moisturizing cream and basics were the major products regarded as men’s cosmetics.

In terms of the specific brands that were best for the respondents, it was found that Nivea 92% was the leading brand while L’oreal 86%, Biotherm 85% and Clarins 73% were also favourite brands amongst the respondents. The distribution channel that is currently preferred by the male consumers is perfumery 76%, online stores 13% and convenient stores 56%. In addition, drugstores 10% and other places 9% are still being used. Men usually buy the men’s cosmetics out of their own desires 22% rather than influences from other social factors. However, the main social factors that influence men to purchase the cosmetics include celebrity endorsements 91% and friends (89%). Therefore, Male grooming industry, as men become more image-conscious and concerned toward social expectation on the basis of their increase exposure to the current highly popularized emergence of metrosexual celebrity endorsement (AMA, 2007).

Fig 18: Gentleman’s Brand Co.

The consumption of men’s beauty products was determined in terms of the particular products purchase; most preferred brands and distribute or place. In fact, the people who advise men to consume beauty products were examined. In essence, the difference between the respondents from eastern and western countries in terms of the purchased cosmetics was negligible. The research has listed the buying criteria and the requirements for male’s beauty product were in European countries, which mainly use shaving foam (93%) followed by moisturizing cream (91%), deodorant (85%) and after-shave. Moreover, in regards of Asian countries were found to mainly use purifying and cleaning products (83%), followed by moisturizing cream (93%), cover stick (81%) and deodorant (72%).


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Fig 19: Men consumer questionnaire


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Fig 20: Men consumer questionnaire


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Fig 21: Verso Skincare


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5.2 influence of external factors As stated, men do constitute a portion of the market that is growing at a rapid rate. However, men tend to have loyalty towards brands they are accustomed towards and are less likely to consider alternative brands. The loyalty towards a particular brand is, more often than not, due to social factors such as friends, family, and even for work purposes. ‘’I feel like friends and family are major influencers. When their girlfriends buy cosmetics, they would ask and their girlfriends would advise on which items to use.’’ (Appendix: Biotherm, Taipei) On the other hand, social factors also have deterring effects for some male consumers such as a fear of being labeled as a homosexual. Therefore, adverts typically endorse Metrosexual celebrities as a means to negate negative stereotypes (Nizar & Mariam, 2009). Keep in mind that metrosexuals and homosexuals are not equivalent, but the purpose is to associate the usage of cosmetics as a gender-neutral behavior. Nevertheless, a high proportion of male students, 58% to be exact, which buys cosmetics suggest that younger and more educated generations are the reason behind the growth in sales. Adverts are catered more towards younger generations. About 80% of men in the age range of 18-35 are ritualistically using facial cleansers and deodorant, which is followed by moisturizing, hair-care, and shaving products.

Men are also influenced by factors such as proximity, pricing, and environment when purchasing cosmetic products. To specify, men are more likely to buy a product that is available at they’re nearest convenient store rather than visiting a brand’s concessions. Online stores are not a major area of focus for men; however, could be used as a marketing tool or an alternative method to receive adverts. According to (Mintel, 2013), men show a level of disinterest when shopping for male grooming products, with 46% of men tending to buy the same brand of toiletries. Pricing is considered a key factor when men decide whether or not to buy a product. Despite the fact that men are loyal to a specific brand, men would consider trying a different brand product if it is able to achieve the same result for a lower price. It will be a challenge for companies and brands to expand the current market, as men don’t have a strong interest in trying out new product forms. (Adology,2013). Men would require assistance in terms of understanding products that they are unfamiliar with and considering rising awareness of products, increasing spending power and evolving lifestyles are leading Chinese male consumers to spend extra money on their faces. (Men’s Toiletries-China, 2013). Men are willing to learn more, buy more, and use more variety of products if instructed of its benefits.


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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MALES FROM WESTERN AND EASTERN CULTURES WAS COMPARED IN TERMS OF THEIR PERCEPTIONS AND ATTITUDES TOWARDS THE USE OF MEN’S BEAUTY PRODUCTS. MEN SHOW A LEVEL OF DISINTEREST WHEN SHOPPING FOR MALE GROOMING PRODUCTS, WITH 46% OF MEN TENDING TO BUY THE SAME BRAND OF TOILETRIES. (MINTEL, 2013)

CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR BETWEEN MALE FROM WESTERN & EASTERN COUNTRIES 5.3


Fig 22: The Essentialist- What’s Hot and What’s Not

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Fig 23: Products Projects- Rob Rijnen

Fig 24: Buying Behaviour v.s. Non-buying behaviour


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Various theories have been developed to shed light on consumer behaviour and the consumer loyalty towards brands. In terms of theories on brand loyalty, it is indicated by Lam (2005) that brand loyalty affects purchase behaviour among consumers and the loyal customers market the brands indirectly through spreading positive information about the brands. However, predicting the relationship between brands and the consumers can be very difficult since it tends to change often. In addition, switching from one brand to another is a common occurrence in the competitive business world as firms improve their quality and offer prices that are affordable. The framework by Lam (2005) reveals that true customer loyalty encompasses affective loyalty and purchase loyalty. Moreover, this can only be attained through experience over time, unlike Kotler et al. (2010)’s arguments that consumers switch their loyalty and do not remain loyal unless their needs are adequately met. (Refer to figure 24)

However, the model of brand loyalty by Lam (2005) may be influenced by the national context as noted by Kort et al (2010) which is a major limitation. Therfore the model by Lam (2005) is applicable in the Asian countries but not the western European countries. Another theory that explains the consumer behaviour is the cultural dimension model by Hofstede (2001), which posits that cultural change takes place as a response to the external changes like globalization which influence and change people’s social and economic life. As noted, individuals in industrialized and developed countries experience economic environments that necessitate redefining of femininity and masculinity. In addition, Hofstede (2001) affirmed that masculine countries have separate and different gender roles, therefore the men in Japan are tough and assertive compared to France with a lower masculinity index score. The highest level of power distance in a country implies that the national culture strongly rejects the notion of men and women’s power equality. These countries are less likely to embrace the ‘new males’ who appear less masculine unlike the traditional men.


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Fig 25: the ryan group brands


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Diffusion of innovation theory suggests that innovation spreads in markets through diffusion from the influence of consumer interactions and communications. Social networks through which innovation diffuses are homogenous and connected (Lehmann and EstebanBravo 2006). Hence, the new adopters tend to join product market due to effect of external influences like communication that firms initiate and advertising strategies. They also join product market through internal market factors emanating from the interaction between potential adopters and the adopters in the social network. The main market factors, which drive diffusion of innovations, can be presented as follows Fig 26.

Fig 26: Diffusion of innovation

Consequently, diffusion of innovation resulted in the increase of men’s cosmetics in eastern and western counties as the societies in these countries adopted the innovation. Lehmann and Esteban-Bravo (2006) argues that innovation of men’s cosmetics offered certain advantages over the traditional products like social recognition, convenience as well as superiority. The men’s cosmetics have also been portrayed to enhance ‘men’s attractiveness’ which complies with their needs. Moreover, since men’s cosmetics are simple to use, they are being adopted faster. The male consumers are also curious to try other products such as cosmetics and when they experience the results such as improved body image and self-confidence, they become loyal consumers.


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Fig 27: simon baker givenchy gentlemen only


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According to the respondents, both western and eastern beauty industry are witnessing rapid development and attempting to satisfy male customers’ specific demands and preferences. The emergence of various beauty brands specially designed for male customers and a number of beauty brands emphasizing perfect integration of both comfort and beauty have explicitly reflected the above point. A majority of 76% male customers hold the idea that beauty market only valued female and elder male consumers, whereas they have realized a significant shift over past years. Besides, there are about 23% of respondents maintained that it is much easier to find a diversity of male beauty products and brands which can perfectly meet male consumers’ needs today.

5.4 Perceptions about the current male beauty industry A small group of the respondents (19%) claimed that they do not use the men’s cosmetics. Therefore, they are asked to state the reasons. The majority indicated that men’s cosmetics were not necessary for them 42% and Expensive 35% or they use alternative products 13%. Others cited Allergy and other medical reasons 21.1% and the fear of the perception of other people about men’s cosmetics 10.5%. A good number of male respondents who do not consume men’s cosmetics 53% will consider using men’s cosmetics in the future. The main reason for considering the use of men’s cosmetics in the future among male respondents who do not consume men’s cosmetics currently will include price 87% or packaging 71% and the change in distribution 62%. The interviews involved five respondents and they provided a number of insights into the men’s cosmetic market and behaviour of the male consumers. In the first place, a number of responses were given concerning the most essential things that men need to know about cosmetics.


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According to the respondents, both western and eastern beauty industry are witnessing rapid development and attempting to satisfy male customers’ specific demands and preferences. The emergence of various beauty brands specially designed for male customers and a number of beauty brands emphasizing perfect integration of both comfort and beauty have explicitly reflected the above point. A majority of 76% male customers hold the idea that beauty market only valued female and elder male consumers, whereas they have realized a significant shift over past years. Besides, there are about 23% of respondents maintained that it is much easier to find a diversity of male beauty products and brands which can perfectly meet male consumers’ needs today. A small group of the respondents (19%) claimed that they do not use the men’s cosmetics. Therefore, they are asked to state the reasons. The majority indicated that men’s cosmetics were not necessary for them 42% and Expensive 35% or they use alternative products 13%. Others cited Allergy and other medical reasons 21.1%

and the fear of the perception of other people about men’s cosmetics 10.5%. A good number of male respondents who do not consume men’s cosmetics 53% will consider using men’s cosmetics in the future. The main reason for considering the use of men’s cosmetics in the future among male respondents who do not consume men’s cosmetics currently will include Price 87% or packaging 71% and the change in distribution 62%. The interviews involved five respondents and they provided a number of insights into the men’s cosmetic market and behaviour of the male consumers. In the first place, a number of responses were given concerning the most essential things that men need to know about cosmetics. For instance, respondent 1 noted, … It is important for men to know that men’s cosmetics not only enhances one’s attractiveness, but help the skin to be healthy…

In addition, respondent 3 clarified further that, … Men should understand that men’s cosmetics also increase one’s confidence and self-esteem… The message that interviewees gave was that men’s cosmetics was good for men thus cosmetics should not be considered as a women’s area rather it is for all consumers interested in improving how they look and their self-image. Respondent 5 who said also supported this indication, … Business world and the professionals are interested in male employees who can appear well groomed since one’s appearance also enhances good reputation among customers… The issue of whether men’s cosmetics are any different from women’s cosmetics received support from most of the interviewees. Respondent 4 opined that, … Indeed, the men’s cosmetics are quite different from that of women in a number of ways…


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Fig 28: The grooming Guru’s Christmas gift guide for her


Fig 29: Clinique, BC Magazine

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It was respondent 2 who was clearer on whether the cosmetics for males were different from that of females by noting that, … Since men’s skins are different from women’s skin, the men’s cosmetics are designed with this difference in mind in order to be more effective… On his part, respondent 1 argued that, … Although the skin of men and women are different, the cosmetics are not relatively different and can be used by the men… However, this response contracted that of respondent 3, who attested that, … The men’s cosmetics differ in everything from packaging to fragrance level for men have varied cosmetic needs of women. The males from the European counties are using mainly men’s cosmetics for caring for the skin and the anti-aging creams. For instance, respondent 4 noted that, … The males from European countries are concerned about dry skin; sensitive skin, acne and hyper pigmentation hence seek men’s cosmetics to address…

One of the respondents noted that a number of Asian countries including china, South Korea and India have recorded high growth of consumption of men’s cosmetics and the trends are expected to increase over the next decade. According to respondent 4, … The growth of men’s cosmetics market was double digits in many countries globally. It is also expected that Asian countries will record growth in the next five years since over 65% sales of men’s cosmetics occurred in Asian countries… Respondent 5 believes that, … Cosmetic manufacturers are keen on increasing their market share through various strategies including promotions, better functionality, attractive and masculine packaging and the product design… The analysis of interview responses also showed that the toiletries for men are also major products that are consumed in European market. For instance, deodorants as well as the hair care cosmetics are increasing in demand. The respondents

also discussed the future of men’s cosmetics. In essence, it was noted that the men’s cosmetics market was initially in the western countries until recently when Asian countries and other countries in Europe tremendously increased the consumption of male cosmetics. The interviewees also stated that climatic changes are a major factor in the increased sale of men’s skincare products.


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The results presented have provided detailed information that answers, the study questions as well as the study objectives accordingly. In addition, the information in the literature review of cosmetics markets, consumer behaviour and theories of selfconcept has been compared to the results in order to establish the different motivation among males from eastern and western countries to buy men’s cosmetics.

DISCUSSION 5.5

Fig 30: Men SK-II skincare products


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The difference between males from western and eastern cultures was compared in terms of their perceptions and attitudes towards the use of men’s cosmetics. This is based on the fact that a mixed method was considered as the study approach hence detailed information was obtained. As revealed in the results, the males from Asian countries tend to associate the beauty industry with females, but also indicate more concerns regarding the usage of cosmetics being perceived as an indication of homosexuality. In comparison, males from European countries have indicated less stigma attached to using cosmetics. According to Blanchin, Chareyron and Levert (2007), men’s cosmetics are very important, especially in the development of self-confidence and self-esteem of an individual. In addition, men from Asian countries have been noticed to have increasing awareness towards improving their own image. However, there may have been other factors that influenced the Asian men to be more afraid of using cosmetics to avoid being labelled homosexuals compared to males from European countries such as the social factors. Moreover, the results confirmed

that families and friends (male and female) encouraged some male consumers to buy the men’s cosmetics. These results support the findings of Barel, Paye and Maibach (2001) who established that female spouses had power to influence decisions of their male counterparts regarding consumption of cosmetics. On the other hand, these findings were not consistent with the report given by Cole (2008) who posited that social actors have no effect on men’s product selection since it is only women who care about their image when using cosmetic products. It was established in the study that both males from European countries and Asian countries felt the same that taking care of themselves was important and that they felt more self-confident when using/ purchasing men’s cosmetics. This shows that the consumption of men’s cosmetics has greatly changed compared to the past, but still, more marketing is required. In addition, such products are no longer seen as things meant for women only as the men’s cosmetics market is growing faster and becoming more influential in the beauty industry. These results support those of Coad (2008) that the use of skincare, cosmetic products can be one way in which men care for themselves. The self -perception among males from eastern and western countries of their selfimage was different. This may be attributed to the fact that generally, young men’s purchasing behaviour towards cosmetics is influenced strongly by personal and cultural factors. Also, young men have been observed to moderately respond with metro-sexual global tendency. Moreover, their traditional behaviours towards consumption could not be changed given that most men never involve themselves in the buying of cosmetics.


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In particular, more males from European countries believed that using men’s cosmetics enhances self-image than males from Asian countries. Hence producers of men’s cosmetics may attract young males to purchase men’s cosmetics through celebrity endorsements and innovation. There have also been a number of technological advancements that meet men’s demand for more products for skin care. The males from Asian countries also believed that using man’s cosmetics enhances people’s perception of one’s image. Basically, the present study can be of greater significance for marketers in that they may use the findings of the study to implement marketing strategies in Asian countries while considering the messages that men’s cosmetics enhances body image. This could better satisfy the male consumers within the Asian countries such as Japan, UAE, South Korea, India, China, Singapore and Hong Kong among other Asian countries. The reason for consuming men’s cosmetics among males from Asian countries was mainly to care for one’s skin, enhance one’s image and enhance attractiveness. In addition, the men use shaving foam and basics products. Accordingly, the motivation to use skincare, cosmetic products may be caused by individual

influences and self-perception from other social factors such as work colleagues, friends, spouse and families. Therefore, it is important for marketers of cosmetics to develop awareness through utilizing proper marketing and communication tools. However marketing efforts must be made so as to persuade these men to buy new brands and products. In the cosmetics market, most popular products for men comprise of only the basic hygiene products. The major determinants of men’s purchasing behaviour in these markets include the hygiene features, fragrance, and functions of the cosmetic product, and the relationship between quality and price of the products. It therefore implies that rather than trying a variety of segmentation variables, emerging companies should discover their capabilities and subdivide the smaller markets. This would definitely help to serve better the target group of participants with unique offers. The males from Asian countries were also influenced by different factors to purchase men’s cosmetics when compared to the males from European countries. In Asian countries, the males were more concerned about Product quality, Advertising and promotion, Store location and Packaging when purchasing men’s cosmetics than their


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counterparts from the European countries. In European countries, the males were more concerned about price, features and packaging compared to the males from Asian countries. From this study, it is understood that males are not shy to consume the men’s cosmetics as evident in the global sales trends. Growth in urbanization and disposable income will continue to occur in the future; therefore, more men can increase their spending on men’s cosmetics as revealed in various eastern countries. The results also suggest that climatic changes are a major factor in the increased sale of men’s skincare products. The reasons given are that in some countries, there are seasons for dry and cold winters as well as humid and hot summers, which affect the men’s skin. Hence men consume hydrating creams during the winter to make enhance the skin moisture.


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CHAPTER 6 CONCLUSION


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Fig 31: Shishedo Products photography


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The findings help to understand the difference between men’s cosmetics’ consumption patterns and purchasing behaviours among males from eastern and western countries, which is essential for developing proper strategies of marketing within the cross-cultural setting. This has been attained through understanding cultural influence on consumption of men’s cosmetics among males in eastern and western cultures. Moreover, because western and eastern male consumers have their own respective cultures, it is possible for them to generate different personalities; motivations and therefore act differently when it comes to consuming men’s cosmetics. It may be realized from the findings of this study that the behaviour of today’s men differs from previous generations. The change in the environment and behaviour of men makes them spend more on cosmetics. This is why even the eastern countries that were more conservative are accepting men’s cosmetics. Nowadays, the change in behaviour of men has completely distorted the attitude of being recognized as consumers as well as their appearance. The present study found that consumption of men’s cosmetics was very high in males from both eastern and western countries. Although results show that the respondents who use skincare, cosmetic products are large in number compared to who are yet to use these products, there is no big difference between the Asian and western cultures in the two categories. This therefore implies that men are concerned about their appearance, especially the younger generation since they are more aware of skincare items than the older generation. On the other hand, financial factors play very crucial roles in this regard because individuals with high incomes have greater opportunity to buy such products compared to those with low incomes according to the study by Feng (2008). It was also established that occupation did not have any effect on men’s spending patterns because the respondents who had jobs were found to spend the same amount of money towards the purchase of cosmetics as students and the unemployed. Nonetheless, there are several reasons that make men from eastern and western cultures spend money on skincare and cosmetic products, but in most instances, they use such products to improve their personal hygiene and skin. This means that most men from eastern countries and western countries are greatly concerned about their appearance. Accordingly, the present study adds some theoretical information to the literature regarding the emerging markets; it enhances understanding of the impact of cultural dimensions of attitudes towards male cosmetics. It recommended that further research might be conducted involving additional career groups in order to give more insights into buying skincare or cosmetics products. Based on managerial perspectives, distribution strategies, products and promotions must be developed well and managed properly according to their differences. This means that the products must match with wants and needs as well as the utilization characteristics.


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CHAPTER 7 RECOMMENDATION


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Fig 32: Men perfume


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For the purpose of offering an appropriate product-sales orientation and optimize the buying experience, several recommendations drawn on the basis of Booms and Bitner’s extended marketing mix 7p’s framework which emphasizes the requirements, demands and preferences of male consumers have been put forward. For its ability to configure a better customer relationship and constructive management strategies integrating the advantages of service philosophy instead of merely relying on the internal production demands of the organizations or the potential merits of the products involved in the original 4ps, this method has been chosen as primary research approach (Groucutt, 2005; Posner, 2011).


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PRODUCT The comprehensive research results could provide constructive suggestions to improve the functions of male beauty products and satisfy specific needs of male consumers. Quite different from women beauty product, the male products are supposed to be brand new from the packaging, the container to the internal product’s composition and scent. As a matter of fact, the skin of male and female is totally different with men having thicker and tougher skin, which makes it much greasier. It is not a good thing to have excessive sebum and thick skin as the pores are inclined to dilate at a rapid speed and further clog itself with the emergence of buttons and black spots. Given men always shave which means the skin will be attacked by razors’ blade making it much tougher than that of female. Since they are reluctant to take too much time and energy in the bathroom the creams are usually compassing light textures and able to penetrate fast. Take into consideration all the reasons mentioned above, it is not likely to design the same product with completely same components for male and female. Strict research on male’s skin should be conducted to reach the most appropriate product specifically for them, for instance the L’Oreal and Shiseido are all equipped with high technological labs to assist them marching towards male beauty market. Attributing to their well-known reputation with female’s beauty products; it is much easier for large companies like these two to develop male beauty market. According to Lisa from Molton brown Nottingham stating ‘’I would say product designs. More manly and they do shop by colours. I think the most importantly is the trust of the brand, and specifically products design for them. Basically, we don’t do any advertising, mainly via words of mouth or experiences via hotels and cruise. But the most important thing is a trust worthy brand.’’ (Appendix: Interview Molton brown Nottingham) Market segmentation is of great importance to male beauty industry. When it involves multiple segments, various lines with limited edition, range should be created as consumers are inclined to purchase beauty products at retailers and department stores.

Fig 33: “Expert Shave” Line


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PRICE With regard to the price, it has been found in the research price is one critical standard to develop male beauty product. Male customers in both western and eastern countries actually have relatively weak purchase power than that of women in terms of volume. However, it is likely for them to spend money on beauty product and perceive it as an important investment in their appearance. This point has been proven in the research with a majority of respondents stating that they are willing to pay as much as possible as long as the products can satisfy their specific needs. ‘’Affordable pricing, since men are less likely to spend too much. And probably packaging, since ours is not overly feminine.’’ (Appexdix: MAC, Taipei) Based on this argument, an appropriate retail price of the male beauty products in Western area is between €35 and €65 (between £28 and £52), and the figure in Eastern area is between £35 and £75 which are within the acceptable price range for men customers.

PLACE Another finding in this research is that even with its great convenience, the fast-growing and practical purchasing platform, namely e-commerce seems not that popular among male consumers. According to the research, men consumers in both western and eastern area prefer to buy beauty products either at retail stores or department malls rather than online stores. When it comes to international beauty firms, it is highly recommended to invest in the bricks and mortar retail apartments, which offer “masculinity’’ purchasing experience, since this kind of environments, have been proven to be the most effective and preferable channels for searching and buying products.


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Fig 34: Hydrating Face Cream - Bobbi Brown


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PROMOTION It is the shopping experience and the product’s functions to satisfy consumers’ specific need rather than the label that are valued most. Thus, promotional activities should be conducted in a “new male” approach that cater to active, self-conscious and socially integrated male consumers’ tastes. To be specific, an in-store activity or pop-up shop-involving special surprising with gadgets (such as smart phones or iPad) can be organized to evoke male customers’ interest, which can enhance their purchasing experience. The advantages of this approach lies in two aspects: improving brand awareness, positive propaganda of the new product both of which can contribute to sales improvement. In spite of in-store promotional events, advertising activities are another approach to illustrate those men customer can deliver significant brand credibility and assist with brand communication. Through taking advantage of messages coming along with enhanced self-image and self-confidence of men consumers, this strategy uses well-known celebrities or top models with high identification can easily strengthen customer’s brand identification. Sales from Dior Selfridges said ‘’I think packaging design are really important, also if you have like a celebrity using it and like endorsing it and that also really helps.’’(Appendix: Dior Selfridges Birmingham)

Fig 35: Clinique for Men

To improve the adoption of e-commerce channels, organizations are encouraged to organize various promotional activities held exclusively online which could then improve online sales through introducing the websites by using male-centred language and connecting to live chat with experts facilitating male customers’ shopping process. These approaches can effectively increase the amount of online visitors and generate growing sales through e-commerce channel.


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Fig 36: The Art of Shaving: Your Online Source for Quality Shaving Products


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PEOPLE Experienced and well-trained professionals who are capable of giving comprehensive market status and specific research techniques to gain profound consumers’ insight and obtain valuable information in relation to both products and consumers should be employed, especially for international companies who have willingness to develop male beauty market. Effective team work among professional consultants who know clearly about the male market and sales with rich experience to communicate beauty products information to male consumers are of great necessity to convey the important expertise and products’ detailed functions which can satisfy males consumers’ specific demands. PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT It has been proven that male consumers do not prefer to buy beauty products online which mean attentive and attractive retail environment should be created as it is the most powerful channel for brand communication. Noticing that male customers have increasing requirements in relation to shopping experience, value and considerate service compared to that of women market, companies that could succeed in enriching and perfecting consumers’ shopping experience are likely to gain higher market position. Beauty retailers focusing on special segment should develop a physical environment, which can get along with their customers’ profile. To be specific, retailers can introduce store layouts characterized by stylish, modern and attracting interior design configuring a more masculinity sense; as a result male customers would link the stereotypical men image to the existing beauty products. Besides, it is highly suggested to invest in visual merchandising as it has been acknowledged throughout the study that men customers perceive celebrities’ adore ship/activities as a primary source of awareness. All in all, it is critical to make full use of strategies to address the characteristics of the product and get consumers engaged in shopping experience via taking part in celebrity’s activities, which in turn can promote sales and encourage purchasing behaviour.


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PROCESS Being aware of the increasingly growing male beauty market, retailer and marketers endeavour to develop a “men-area’’ service coming through the whole process of product sales. Both traditional market research methods and contemporary research techniques are recommended to study the interaction between consumers and brand, as well as to gain a comprehensive view of male customers’ specific needs and preference with reference to the products and services. For example, male customers in Asia hold that patience, friendliness and courtesy of the sale service are most important during purchasing process. Therefore, friendly and well-trained sales staffs that know clearly about customers’ are necessary to provide customers with considerate and standardized service. The delightful shopping experience is identified to have significant impacts on customers’ purchasing behaviour. Retailers are able to provide more professional and personalized services to customers with attractive and appropriate beauty products, which in turn can improve customers’ retention. Elaborated on what has been demonstrated above, it is clear that all recommendations mentioned above could effectively assist with optimization of customers’ shopping experience. Firms that succeed in exploring the male market and offering high-quality product and personalized services can obtain considerable competitive advantage and at the same time yield large amount of revenue and win over consumers’ heart.


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Fig 37: Moisturisers, Cleanser & Toners - Skincare Bobbi Brown UK


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CHAPTER 8 REFERENCE


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List of Illustrations: Cover Image: 10 men [Online] Available from: http://www.10magazine.com/men [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 1: How to make your own make-up [Online] Available from: http://www.everything-beautiful.com/how-tomake-your-own-make-up/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 2: Jon Kortajarena & Sean O’Pry for Zara Fall Winter 2012.13 [Online] Available from: http://www.malemodelscene.net/agencies/wilhelmina-models/jon-kortajarena-sean-opry-zara-fw12-13/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 3: Kurt Iswarienko [Online] Available from: http://www.trunkarchive.com/C.aspx?VP3=SearchResult_ VPage&VBID=2P0UBHETGLB4S Fig 4: Mysterious Armani 2011, Fashionsing.com [Online] Available from: http://www.fashionising.com/clothing/b--Mysterious-Armani-5923.html Fig 5: Kao Yi Xiang for SK-II Men advertising [Online] At: http://www.vogue.com.tw/beauty/skincare/content-3942. html [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 6: Men’s Tuesdays, Carven 2013 [Online] Available from: http://nikkikaydotcom.wordpress.com/2013/08/13/ mens-tuesdays-2/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 7: JUAN BETANCOURT: EL ROSTRO DE LA NUEVA LÍNEA DE GROOMING DE TOM FORD [Online] Available from: http://malefashiontrends.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/Tom-Ford-for-men-skincare-campaign-juanbetancourt.html [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 8: Machiaj de mireasa – propuneri si stiluri de machiaj de nunta [Online] Available from: http://www.alo-moda. ro/machiaj-de-mireasa-propuneri-si-stiluri-de-machiaj-de-nunta.html [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 9: New Dior makeup shot by Laziz Hamani [Online] Available from: http://llreps.wordpress.com/2011/06/09/ new-dior-makeup-shot-by-laziz-hamani/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 10: Dior Homme Dermo System [Online] At: http://www.dior.com/beauty/en_gb/fragrance-and-beauty/ men-skincare/pr-tmenskincare-Y0623301-repairing-after-shave-lotion.html [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 11: Michelangelo’s David (1501-1504) Galleria dell’Accademia [Online] At: http://www.sculturastudios.com/ links.shtml [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 12: Fashion men part II [Online] At: http://ashishsahi.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/fashion-men-part-ii.html [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 13: Gerard Butler photography [Online] Available from: http://hdw.eweb4.com/search/g%25C3%25A9rard%2Bbutler/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 14: Enknyc Men’s Grooming/Skincare [Online] Available from: http://lyramag.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/enknyc-mens-groomingskincare.html [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 15: Teruonishi cosmetics [Online] Available from: http://www.teruonishi.com [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 16: Daniel Lindh, MAC cosmetics [Online] Available from: http://www.managementartists.com/photography/ daniel-lindh [Accessed on 19.06.14]


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Fig 17: Men consumer questionnaire [Own Graph] Fig 18: Gentleman’s Brand Co. [Online] Available from: http://gentlemansbrand.co [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 19: Men consumer questionnaire [Own Graph] Fig 20: Men consumer questionnaire [Own Graph] Fig 21: Verso Skincare [Online] Available from: http://www.versoskincare.com [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 22: The Essentialist- What’s Hot and What’s Not [Online] Available from: http://www.blogcatalog.com/blogs/theessentialist-whats-hot-and-whats-not [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 23: Products Projects- Rob Rijnen [Online] Available from: http://impresswithimages.com/photography-projects/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 24: Buying Behaviour v.s. Non-buying behaviour [Own Graph] Fig 25: the ryan group brands [Online] Available from: http://www.ryangroupbrands.com [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 26: Diffusion of innovation [Own Graph] Fig 27: simon baker givenchy gentlemen only [Online] Available from: http://www.thefashionisto.com/mentalist-star-simon-baker-fronts-givenchy-gentlemen-intense-fragrance-campaign/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 28: The grooming Guru’s Christmas gift guide for her [Online] Available from: http://groomingguru.co.uk/ tag/2012/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 29: Clinique, BC Magazine Philippines [Online] Available from: http://bcmedia.ph/?p=2703 [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 30: Men SK-II skincare products [Online] Available from: http://www.sk-ii.com.sg/en/products.aspx?sortby=men [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 31: Shishedo Products photography [Online] Available from: http://www.erikskaar.com [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 32: Men perfume [Online] Available from: http://cadika-beautyblog.de/pflege-fur-manner/ [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 33: “Expert Shave” Line [Online] Available from: http://www.menshealth.com/grooming/dove-mencare-launches-expert-shave-line [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 34: Hydrating Face Cream - Bobbi Brown [Online] Available from: http://www.bobbibrown.co.uk/product/3919/12761/Whats-New/Hydrating-Skin-Care/Hydrating-Face-Cream/index.tmpl [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 35: Clinique for Men [Online] Available from: http://www.clinique.co.uk/cliniqueformen [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 36: The Art of Shaving: Your Online Source for Quality Shaving Products [Online] Available from: http://www. theartofshaving.com [Accessed on 19.06.14] Fig 37: Moisturisers, Cleanser & Toners - Skincare - Bobbi Brown UK [Online] Available from: http://www.bobbibrown.co.uk/landing/skincare/index.tmpl [Accessed on 19.06.14]


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