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The most beautiful of all snakes?
• Stick Insects Farewell to stag nights? Florida kingsnake morphs Madagascan chameleons rs • Snake Mites • Softshel led Turtles • Tackling • Green Tree Monito Snake 24/02/2010 11:50
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Features 14 Keeping Hermann’s tortoises in the UK - breeder Dillon Prest provides a highly-practical, year-round care guide to maintaining these popular pet tortoises, with information on breeding them as well. 24 Back to basics with leopard geckos is there now a new trend emerging to create natural strains? John Courteney-Smith hopes this is the case, and explains why. 26 The story of Col and Mel - two tadpoles which went on to become very special toads. 28 Growing old gracefully - the care of elderly reptiles, and the difficult subject of euthanasia are discussed by Hannah Salisbury. 42 Out of Africa - Botswana resident Paul Donovan describes his experiences with baboon spiders, and how their vivarium needs can be misunderstood. 48 New discoveries about keeping snaileating snakes - these remarkable reptiles have very specific requirements, as Christian Castille reveals.
54 54 Destination : Thailand - a PlanetWildlife expedition into an area of spectacular scenery which is also home to a wide range of reptiles. 64 Can your reptiles recognise you? - you might even want to test your pet to find out!
Regulars 4 News and views - there’s information about a forthcoming chelonian meeting and a new book on house snakes. Plus you can read about the successful rescue of one of the rarest freshwater turtles in the world. 6 Breeder updates - Tariq Abou-Zahr investigates what’s hot in the reptile world, including new and striking morphs in the case of reticulated pythons; breedings of Morelia pythons in Wales, a truly spectacular ball python plus the albino form of the ocellated lizard. 12 Kevin’s casebook - how Kevin and the team aided an unlucky Rankin’s dragon, whose jaw ended up being broken accidentially in two places. 20 Qs & As - addressing the problems that you want answered, concentrating on scorpions this month.
Welcome
O
ne thing that this magazine is never short of is variety and at the same time, we try to bring you the very latest developments from around the world. This month, I really enjoyed reading Christian Castille’s first account of his discoveries, working with the rarely-kept snail-eating snails. I also got quite excited, thinking that here was a new biological control method as well to protect my vegetable crops, but rather unfortunately, it turns out that aquatic snails are flavour of the month with these snakes. Many reptile owners reckon that their pets recognise them, and again, there’s plenty of scope for research, as Julia Mueller’s fascinating article highlights in this issue. And guess what? The harder that you look, the more you can see - and certainly, it does appear as if some reptiles at least can clearly recognise us as individuals. There’s good news too. At a time when many things are going up in price, I’m pleased to say the cost of Practical Reptile Keeping is coming down if you take a subscription and pay by direct debit. This will now save you a further £4, compared with our previous price, and you can also enjoy the convenience of having your magazine delivered to your door every month, straight from the printer. Full details are on page 72. David Alderton, Editor. Email: prk.ed@kelsey.co.uk *David is an acknowledged expert with more than 40 years of experience in this area. He has written and broadcast extensively about the care and biology of these creatures, and also speaks regularly to various herpetological groups.
22 Shop profile - Hastings Reptile and Aquatic Centre, on the Sussex coast. 34 Back issues - how to obtain copies of Practical Reptile Keeping magazines that are still available, if you’ve missed any previous issues. 35 Zinio - discover how the latest technology means that Practical Reptile Keeping is now available to you on-line almost anywhere in the world. 36 Company insight - the manufacturer and wholesaler behind ND Vivariums. 38 Reptile focus - this month’s focus falls on a striking gecko. 40 Christian’s clinic - ways of treating burns are addressed this month. 59 Puzzles - try out our new range of reptile-related puzzles. 60 You and your reptiles - another stunning selection of the photos that you have sent in. 68 The Victoria Neblik interview - Reptile conservationist Romulus Whitaker talks about his work and plans. 74 Next month - & how to contact us. June 2011 3
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News & Views North-west tortoise event
A varied range of reports, including a new snake book, a chelonian meeting in Cheshire and the rescue of an iconic turtle in Asia.
Don’t miss the 10th Annual Cheshire Tortoise Day on Saturday, May 21st, with the anniversary celebrations being organised by the Cheshire Group of the British Chelonia Group (BCG). The BCG charity promotes the welfare and conservation of tortoises, terrapins and marine turtles worldwide. The aim of the Tortoise Day is to enable enthusiasts to meet and share information with experts on hand to offer advice. In previous years, each event has attracted over
More information When: From 10am-4pm, on Saturday, May 21st. Where: The Village Hall, Wilmslow Old Road, Mottram St Andrew, Cheshire, SK10 4QP. Cost: Admission £2, with children free, as is parking. Further information: Contact Julia on 01260-270307 or Anne on 07891-283753 from 8am-6pm.
New book on house snakes
Hoan Kiem lake, showing the building called the Tortoise Tower.
Turtle © haithanh.
Popular turtle rescued
500 visitors with many tortoises arriving for a ‘weigh in’. Everyone is welcome whether a pet owner, reptile enthusiast or veterinarian. Many families just come for an interesting day out, according to the organisers. No tortoises will be on sale, but there will be various stands, such as Shark Teeth Ltd. who will be offering fossils and minerals; plus horticultural sundries, gifts, local handcrafted artwork and a fund-raising tombola with activities for children. There will be a display of several tortoise species plus an unusual identification display of wild, natural tortoise foods as well as ideas about how to grow plants at home for your pets. Dookie’s Ferret Rescue will be in attendance too, along with the Cheshire Pet Veterinary Clinic. There will also be a special lunchtime lecture presentation on various aspects of tortoise identification and care. Light refreshments are available throughout the day, with funds from the event being donated towards chelonian conservation projects worldwide.
A giant Swinhoe’s softshell turtle (Rafeteus swinhoei) which is considered sacred to many Vietnamese people has been successfully caught in Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake. Thousands watched the two hour rescue from the shore. According to popular legend, the turtle is believed to have helped to repulse a Chinese invasion of the country around 600 years ago, although most scientists estimate that it is about 80 years old. Hundreds of people and no less than 10 government agencies have been involved in the creature’s rescue from the massive lake, since it was seen with sores on its neck and elsewhere on its body. These are thought to be due to a combination of increasing pollution in the water and its age. Weighing in at an estimated 200kg (440lb), the turtle is also a fairly mythological beast as far as the world’s conservation community is concerned. Only three other individuals are still known to be alive - two in China, and one in Vietnam, with the outlook for the species being grim, especially because of the age and far-flung distribution of the surviving specimens.
Practical Reptile Keeping contributor Erik Paterson has just has his first book published by AuthorHouse UK Ltd.. Entitled The Captive Care of House Snakes, this is a large, square-format softback, well-illustrated with a range of colour photographs throughout and divided into six chapters. There is an introduction, followed by information on how to identify the different popular species, which is less straightforward than it may sound with this group of snakes. Erik then discusses their general care, in a very clear and practical way, providing advice not just on their housing needs, but also with regards to choosing healthy stock, feeding and health care. The next chapter is devoted to breeding, including a section that could be of value to all snake-keepers, in terms of dealing with non-feeders. There is then a chapter covering the growing number of colour morphs now recognised in this group of snakes, and finally a discussion of the some of the more unusual species This book will be a very useful, practical guide both for someone starting out with these snakes, which deserve to be more popular, as well as a useful reference for the more experienced enthusiast. Erik has certainly packed a lot of information within its 48 pages. * Copies are available on-line either from the publishers (tel. 0800-1974150 or online at www.authorhouse.co.uk) or from Amazon.co.uk, where they are currently priced at £11.28 including free delivery.
4 Practical Reptile Keeping
P4 News.indd 4
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To find your nearest store log on to petsathome.com *Selected stores. Check with your local store before travelling to avoid disappointment. To find your nearest store go to petsathome.com/storelocator †New Malden, Swindon, Telford, Bangor (North Wales), Leicester (Fosse Park), Newport (Isle of Wight), Aylesbury, Boston, Colchester, Farnborough, Kingslynn, Livingston, Middlesbrough, Nottingham, Oldbury, Preston, Redditch, Stockport, Wrexham 2. Pets at Home PRK June 20112011 (17645).indd Reptile_Keeper_PRK ad JUNE issue.indd 2 1
08/04/2011 04/04/2011 16:42 11:19
Breeder Updates
WHAT’S HOT in the reptile world?
In his regular monthly column, Tariq Abou-Zahr reports on the amazing lizards that captured people’s imagination at the recent Hamm show in Germany, plus several new breakthroughs in the field of python breeding.
Sunrise.
Making the
sunrise
All photos courtesy Steven Mussard.
T
o start this month, I have news of a remarkable world-first combination mutation that has been produced here in the UK, in the reticulated python. Steven Mussard (or ‘snaketats’ as he is better-known on some reptile forums) has created what has been christened the sunrise morph. This is a double combo, linking the sunfire and granite back forms. I caught up with Steven recently for some more information. He explained that he has been keeping snakes for nearly 10 years now, with his first purchase having been a Burmese python. Steven told me how, before he obtained this snake, the breeder who ultimately sold it to him went through some fundamental principles that must be appreciated and understood before buying any large constrictor. The breeder in question made Steven handle a 5.5m (18ft) female Burmese with an immense girth, so as to allow him to understand what he was potentially taking on, and to see if Steven was up to the challenge of handling a big snake. This encounter went very well and Steven loved it! It did not end there, however. For several weeks, he went into this female snake’s vivarium and cleaned her out. He learnt how to make a sufficiently strong and large enclosure for his snake when it ultimately reached adult size.
Left: Baby granite back. Above: Sunfire male.
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All photos courtesy Steven Mussard.
Female granite back (mother).
Soon afterwards, Steven got his Burmese python, and moved onto keeping other large constrictors too. He then decided that his favourite species was the reticulated python. In Steven’s view, they are the ultimate in colour, pattern, head shape, intelligence and that if worked with sufficiently, they can be the most rewarding species for the keeper and/or breeder.
Careful preparation
Steven spent a long time researching the breeding process and credits breeders Matthew Hern, Michael Andrews and Big Steve D for helping him with invaluable information. He also found Ross and Marzec’s book Reproductive Husbandry of Pythons and Boas to be an invaluable source of information when starting out. In addition, he also carried out a lot of research into the morph market, studying trends, combinations and genetics for about two years, being a regular visitor to the websites of NERD, Bob Clark, Fila Retics and many others. One morph that he noted was being heavily incorporated into combos was the sunfire, which is co-dominant. The granite back mutation initially stirred some controversy, and Steven explains how NERD described it as a ‘leaky recessive’ gene, rather than a co-dominant one. It is now accepted that it is indeed codominant though, with the super form being the darker variant known as anthrax. Steven thought that granite back and sunfire would go very well together, with granite backs gaining significant amounts of yellow and gold in the neck area before the granite spots, with the
Female granite back laying eggs.
sunfire contributing intense yellow from the tail upwards. Steven predicted that the combo would have golden yellow along almost its entire length. He could not even begin to imagine how spectacular an anthrax super sunfire would be! In September 2010, he put a male sunfire approximately 2.7-3m (9-10ft) in length, bred by Bob Clark, to his 5.2m (17ft) adult female granite back, obtained from NERD. After a month or so of breeding, he separated them, noting that the male was happy to eat, but the female had gone off food completely. On the morning of the 20th of December, Steven saw that the snake was starting to lay. Thankfully, his employer gave him the afternoon off to deal with the eggs! When she had finished laying, Steven, neighbour Jason Hamp, his father and his
wife got ready to remove the female from her eggs. Steven steadied her head, while the others unwrapped the coils, trying to ensure the eggs remained in the position that they were laid. The snake was placed in a large duvet cover. There were 38 eggs in total, only one of which was a slug (infertile). The clutch was incubated in three polystyrene boxes at a temperature of 32.5°C (90.5°F). The first eggs pipped on day 78, and Steven cut open the rest. In total, he hatched 35 baby reticulated pythons, which had an average weight of 140g (5oz). * For anyone interested in buying into this project, contact Steven by email at stevenmussard@hotmail.co.uk or by phone on 01604 832360. Prices will reflect the intensity of the sunfire/granite back colouration seen in individual hatchlings.
Female on eggs.
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Breeder Updates All photos courtesy Joel at South Wales Morelia.
Zebra combos
Zebra jag.
There are some other exciting python projects currently underway in the UK too. Joel and the guys at South Wales Morelia are working especially hard on some zebra combination morphs. Zebra is a co-dominant mutation of the jungle carpet python first produced by Paul Harris of UK Pythons. Shown here is the male zebra jag who is also pictured mating with a female Bredl’s python, plus an example of the regular zebra mutation, so-called because of its stripes. * For more information you can email joel@swmorelia.com and you can also add South Wales Morelia as a friend on Facebook.
Above Zebra jag with Bredl’s python. Below: Zebra jag. Right: Young zebra.
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Regal success
As far as ball pythons are concerned, Mark Fielding-Smith of Regal Pythons is delighted to announce that he has a clutch of five eggs from an ultramel to tristripe pairing in the incubator! Clutch weight was 530g (19oz), with all the eggs showing signs of obvious blood vessels upon candling. The resulting hatchlings should all be 100% double het for ultramel tristripe which is guaranteed to be a truly spectacular morph. Both ultramels and tristripes are very rare in Europe at present - especially the latter! The fact that Mark is well on the way to combining both here in the UK is therefore very exciting news. He is also waiting on clutches this year that should produce tristripes, het tristripes, pastel double het ultramel glow, lemon pastels, het ultramel and double het ultramel pieds. * Keep up-to-date with what is happening by visiting Mark’s forthcoming website at www. regalpythons.com or for specific enquiries, email him on regal@regalpythons.com
Crystalgazing
Photo courtesy Jordan Russell.
The orangey snake is the female ultra, with the striped darker one being the male tristripe. All photos courtesy Mark Fielding-Smith/www.regalpythons.com
Finally, as far as pythons are concerned this month, here is a very spectacular and rare ball python, bred in the US by Tom Baker. Known as the paradox crystal, it is now owned by Jordan Russell. This snake is only the second of its type ever produced. It is effectively a stunning one-off in terms of its appearance. The crystal is a double co-dominant mutation, with mojave and special genes. * Jordan can be emailed on californiabreedersunion@gmail.com ď ľ June 2011 9
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Breeder Updates
Photos courtesy Martin Carlsen/www.albinolizard.com
Albino ocellated success
I simply had to showcase Danish breeder Martin Carlsen’s albino ocellated lizard (Timon lepidus) project. There has been a huge amount of talk about these lizards since they were seen at Hamm in March this year. Martin had always wanted a group of ocellated lizards for his outdoor enclosures and when in October 2008, he saw that a local pet store was offering a large group of 6 month old youngsters which had been captive-bred (CB) in Denmark, he picked out a male and two females (1.2). He started off keeping them in indoor terrariums because the temperature outside was just too cold to transfer them there then. His plan was to have outdoor enclosures ready by May 2009. He managed to complete the works and introduced the lizards to their new home on schedule. Unfortunately for Martin, the summer turned out to be a typical Danish summer - cloudy and rainy (which reminds me of somewhere else!). The lizards did not appear much, their food intake fell back and they started to lose condition. As a result, Martin then made the decision to bring the lizards back inside and they soon put on weight again over a few weeks, with optimum temperatures and plenty of tasty food items. Soon afterwards, he noticed that the
male was mating with one of the females. A few days later, the male mated with the second female as well. A month later, Martin had his first clutch on the ground and in total that season, he ended up with four good clutches. It is worth pointing out that Martin very nearly did not incubate these eggs because his other reptiles were taking up a lot of his time. I’m sure that he is very glad that he did so now!
Unexpected excitement
After a 70 day incubation period, the first babies pipped on November 25th 2009. Martin was fortunate enough to have Peter Wilkes with him at that time. Although originally from England, Peter has been living in Denmark for ten years, and during this time, he has bred many lacertid species. Martin and Peter noticed that a rather strange-looking egg had started to pip and all that could be seen within was yellowish juice. They talked about how the hatchling might be deformed and could need helping out if it was weak. By this time though, it was getting late and Peter was leaving for home after his last sip of tea! Martin checked the egg again after Peter had gone, and was stunned to see the hatchling that had emerged. It was not a normal! It was pinkish with red eyes. He immediately called Peter, who spun his
car around and headed back to see this remarkable and totally unexpected addition to Martin’s collection. He too was amazed when he saw the animals. Martin had hatched a pair (1.1) of albinos and several possible hets, which might carry the albino gene. Last year, Martin proved which of his two original females was the het. He had hibernated the animals for three months, and then marked the eggs to identify which female had laid them. In 2011, Martin now has his 1.1 albinos which are mature and he now plans to mate the original male to his possible hets, to identify which ones possess the albino gene. Martin also explained to me that he has observed that the albinos bask in the sun in exactly the same way as normals. He is certain that there will be no issues with metabolic bone disease and uses Exo Terra UVB lights with Korvimin vitamin and mineral supplements. He is aware that albinos commonly have reduced vision, but says that these albinos seem to have absolutely no issue when it comes to catching prey insects. He has also noted that they follow the same growth curve as typical ocellated lizard offspring. * For anyone interested in these animals, you can visit www.albinolizard.com or contact Martin on contact@albinolizard.com
10 Practical Reptile Keeping
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12/04/2011 13:09
Kevin’s casebook
This month, veterinary specialist Kevin Eatwell describes a case involving loss of appetite - anorexia - in a Rankin’s dragon, and the associated complications which arose in this particular instance.
Ronnie’s fractures before fixation. 12 Practical Reptile Keeping
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he had originally been taken to the vets for an evaluation. The veterinary surgeon had advised a full diagnostic work-up, including blood samples and X-rays, to find out exactly what was going on, so Ronnie could be given the correct treatment. Sadly, Ronnie’s owners were not in a financial position to fund any diagnostic investigations, nor did they have any insurance for their pet.
Disaster strikes
Supportive care was administered though, which included providing some energydense food formula via stomach tube. A solid crop tube was used to anchor the mouth open, prior to sliding the tube down
Five pins were inserted to fix the jaw and a hardened resin used to secure the pins together.
his throat. What is important to remember is that lizards - even quite small individuals - do have a strong bite. When he was being stomach-tubed, Ronnie was rather uncooperative and he bit down as hard as he could onto the tube. This in turn had caused him to fracture his jaw. The veterinary practice was obviously very upset that this accident had happened and so Ronnie was referred to me for the jaw to be assessed, with the practice paying for the treatment. My initial examination confirmed that there were indeed two fresh fractures of the jaw. A discussion with Ronnie’s owners followed, and he was admitted for surgical repair of his jaw. We talked about the
Ronnie had a feeding tube put in place after surgery.
All veterinary photographs courtesy of Kevin Eatwell.
A
norexia is a common condition in reptiles, and it can have a number of causes, which may be environmental and/or medical in origin. Assist-feeding is now routinely used as a means of providing supportive nutrition, so as to keep the patient alive and in reasonable condition, until the underlying cause of the anorexia can be ascertained and treated. This is usually performed in lizards using a solid crop tube, not that dissimilar to those used for birds. This particular case presented one Thursday afternoon, being referred on to our clinic by another veterinary surgeon. Ronnie the Rankin’s dragon (Pogona brevis) had been anorexic for quite some time and
13/04/2011 10:07
Regular – Reptile health
WARNING!
A flat mouth should be use gag dw His fractures had assist-feeding hen healed and the lizard to redu a ce th pins were removed. risk of trauma e . Thankfully, with the
Ronnie recovered well from anaesthesia.
importance of investigating his underlying health problem as well, because there was little point putting Ronnie through surgery without addressing this at the same time. His owners were keen for tests to be performed, but declined as they could not fund this part of his care. They did, however, wish for his jaw to be repaired anyway, so as to give him a fighting chance. Ronnie was therefore anaesthetised with an injectable anaesthetic, then intubated and placed on an anaesthetic gas for the duration of the operation. Mechanical ventilation was used throughout the procedure, so as to keep him breathing while he was under anaesthetic. X-rays were taken which confirmed the presence of two fractures. In order to repair these, an external fixator was applied around the whole of the lower jaw, so as to hold the now loose front section together. Five pins in total were placed into Ronnie’s jaw. A piece of plastic tubing was used to link these together and filled with polymethylmethacrylate, a hardening resin which secured the pins rigidly in place. Ronnie of course had not been eating and in addition, he now had a repaired
fractured jaw and so it was almost inevitable that assist-feeding would be required in the future. A feeding tube was therefore placed in the side of his neck during the operation so that supportive care could continue for some time. This was also used to provide him with painkillers and antibiotics.
The way forward
Further X-rays were taken after surgery was completed, in order to confirm that all the pins were correctly placed, and he was then woken up from his anaesthetic. He went home the following day with assist-feeding instructions, antibiotics and pain killers. I carried out a detailed discussion of his husbandry with his owners, and herein lay a clue to his loss of appetite. His environment was then changed at home so as to ensure he was kept within a more appropriate temperature range. Three months later, Ronnie returned to our clinic and was anaesthetised again.
resulting improvement in his husbandry (plus some assist-feeding and antibiotics) combined with the onset of warmer weather, he had regained his appetite. Ronnie was lucky on this occasion. His owners vowed either to save money for any subsequent treatment or get some insurance now his injuries had healed successfully and his health had improved. Meanwhile, the veterinary practice concerned are using a flat mouth gag every time that they tube-feed a lizard, in order to prevent any risk of a similar injury arising in the future. ■ * Kevin Eatwell, BVSc (Hons), DZooMed (Reptilian), MRCVS has had a keen interest in exotic pets since he was a teenager. After graduating from veterinary school in 1995, he then obtained his certificate in zoological medicine in 2001. Subsequently, he spent time working for wildlife hospitals, zoological collections, commercial clinical pathology laboratories and exotic pet practices. He obtained his diploma in zoological medicine in 2006, taking reptile species as his specialist paper. He is one of only two veterinarians in the UK to hold a reptile diploma. He became an RCVS recognised specialist in zoo and wildlife medicine during 2007. He now works as a Lecturer in Exotic Animal and Wildlife Medicine at the Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh, providing clinical services for both first opinion and referral patients.
Thankfully, with the “resulting improvement in his
X-rays were taken after the surgery to confirm the pins were in the correct place.
husbandry (plus some assistfeeding and antibiotics) combined with the onset of warmer weather, he had regained his appetite.
”
Three months later the pins were removed. June 2011 13
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13/04/2011 12:08
Keeping Hermann’s tortoises in the UK Many people used to keep Hermann’s tortoises, but very little was known about their needs when they were being imported 30 years ago, and few survived for long. Today however, with a much better understanding of their requirements, these chelonians are even being widely-bred, and they certainly make very personable pets, as breeder Dillon Prest explains.
H
Where they come from
on the Balearic islands as well. These are particularly small tortoises, with adults seldom reaching more than 12-13cm (4.755in) in length.
Map © Mkljun.
ermann’s tortoise (Testudo hermanni) is deservedly popular as a pet, since it is relatively hardy, long-lived and friendly, if cared for correctly. Individuals are also distinctively marked, and only grow to a relatively small size, making them ideal for gardens where space is restricted.
These tortoises naturally occur in meadows, hedgerows, hillsides and dry forests throughout much of southern Europe, particularly in the vicinity of the eastern Mediterranean. Three subspecies are currently known, although more are likely to be proposed as we gain further knowledge of this species. The western subspecies (T. h. hermanni) is found in southern France, Spain, Italy and on the islands of Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica. A few small populations are also present
Tortoises of this race are all very similar in appearance and can be easily identified by having two very distinct black lines running down either side of their plastron
(the underside of the shell). The upper shell or carapace is domed, with a flattish top, and is beautifully marked with jet black markings superimposed on a vivid yellow background. Sexing as in other cases is quite straightforward, with adult males being somewhat smaller than females, and having a slightly concave plastron and a much longer tail. Both sexes also have a hook at the base of their tail. This is known as a xiphiplastron and is usually larger in males than females. The eastern subspecies (T. h. boettgeri) is the most commonlyavailable Hermann’s tortoise in captivity. It is larger in size than its western relative, commonly reaching lengths of 20cm (8in) with some specimens occasionally being even bigger. Their appearance is very variable. Individuals can range from an overall golden yellow shade to having an
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Feature – Hermann’s tortoise
All photos except p15 (top) and p16-17 (bottom) courtesy of the author.
Sexing of Hermann’s is straightforward, as males have much longer tails than females.
almost completely black carapace, while others are similar to the western race, with a yellow ground colour offset against black markings. The plastron usually has mottled black markings on either side of it. Each tortoise has totally unique plastron markings just like a human fingerprint, and pictures of the plastron can easily be used to identify individuals in this case. Males are again generally smaller than females and have significantly longer tails and a much larger xiphiplastron. The eastern race is quite widely-distributed, being commonly found in Greece, Turkey, and the Balkans – Kosavo, Albania and Bulgaria. One other lesser-known subspecies also has recently been described, under the scientific name of Testudo hermanni hercegovinensis. This subspecies has evolved from isolated populations of the eastern race which it very closely resembles in appearance. It is named after its distribution in Herzegovina, also being found in the adjacent coastal areas of Croatia and Bosnia.
Accommodation
Housing Hermann’s tortoises is remarkably straightforward, as this hardy species can spend much of the summer out-of-doors. My six individuals currently live in a 2 x 1.5m (6.5 x 5ft) greenhouse, with constant access to an outdoor paddock measuring approximately 4 x 6m (13 x 20ft). The indoor greenhouse area has a soil floor which is regularly dug over and mixed with soft playpit sand for added drainage. Large flat rocks are placed within the area to provide feeding and basking areas, and there are several up-turned logs to
Did you know? This species is named after Johann Hermann (1738-1800), who became professor of medicine at the University of Strasbourg. He was also a keen naturalist, with his zoological collection forming the basis of Strasbourg’s Zoological Museum afte r his death.
provide shade and shelter. One or two areas are kept damp and again, these are regularly dug over, so as to provide nest sites for the females. A few hardy plants are also included within the greenhouse area to offer more shade and create a more natural feel to the habitat. The door of the greenhouse is left open so the tortoises can roam out into the paddock at all times. This is essential, especially as the greenhouse can become too warm for them on hot days. The outdoor section is divided up into several different habitats, including a raised rockery area with gentle slopes to give easy access here. There is also a gravel area in full sun for basking purposes and a large grazing area, which is seeded every year to ensure the tortoises can browse on a wide range of edible plants. The sides of the enclosure are constructed out of red brick and are about 0.5m (1.6ft) tall, with a coping stone edging the top. The sides of any tortoise enclosure must be of a solid construction and should be at least as high as double the length of the largest tortoise in the enclosure, to prevent them climbing out. As well as being capable climbers though, Hermann’s are also accomplished burrowers, so also provide reasonable footings to prevent
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TOP TIP!
Aim to create as n habitat as po atural a Tortoises nee ssible. d their lives and variety in sh able to displa ould be y a range of normal beh av in their enclo iours sure.
them from escaping by this route. Provided that the enclosures are a good size though, and the animals cannot see through the perimeter, so they will be quite settled and will not be continually looking to escape. Wire mesh of any kind is not suitable for this reason, in terms of creating a boundary. Hopefully, long gone too are the days where tortoises would be kept in a small, boring rectangle pen on short grass, and simply provided with a wooden hut for protection. Aim instead to create as natural a habitat as possible. Tortoises need variety in their lives and should be able to display a range of normal behaviours in their enclosure. Create sunbathing areas, burrowing areas, grazing areas, hides and shade and if females are kept with males, always provide at least two nest sites, approximately as deep as the females are long. Retreats where females can escape the attentions of their would-be mates are necessary as well. A large shallow pan of water should also be provided. This must be large enough for the tortoises to bath and soak in as required. It must be kept clean, with its contents being changed at least daily.
This is heated by a 125W mercury vapour lamp at one end. This type of lamp provides heat and essential UVB light, enabling the tortoises to manufacture vitamin D3, thereby helping to ensure good bone and shell development. The lamp is set at a height of between 40-45cm (16-18in) which allows for a
Housing young Hermann’s
30°C (86°F) basking spot below, while the cool end of the tray remains at room temperature. This is currently around 1820°C (64-68°F) and can rise up to 24°C (75°F) during the warmer summer months. The tray has a 6cm (2.75in) deep layer of substrate, which is comprised of soft play
Hatchlings and juveniles should be housed indoors in spacious open-topped trays with access to good quality UVB lighting and basking areas. My youngsters currently live in a large plastic tray measuring 1 x 0.5m (3.2 x 1.6ft) and approximately 0.5m (1.6ft) deep.
pit sand and organic loam-based soil. This is mixed 50/50 and is kept slightly moist at the cooler end and drier beneath the bulb. Juvenile tortoises require an area of damp substrate as they burrow regularly. This creates a healthy micro-climate around the youngster, protecting it from dehydration and keeping its skin and shell in good condition. Once again, a shallow container of clean water should always be available, and even indoors, create an interesting environment, by adding upturned logs, large stones and potted plants within the enclosure. There should also be suitable retreats for the young tortoises. Whenever possible, juveniles should be given periods of time out-of-doors, weather permitting. Keep the outdoor pens reasonably
Flowers are popular as food with Hermann’s tortoises of all ages.
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Feature – Hermann’s tortoise small and cover the top securely with a wire mesh screen to protect them from predators, which might range from foxes to birds such as gulls or crows. Make sure there are always areas of shade. My outdoor juvenile pen is situated within the adults’ pen, so that should a youngster escape, it can easily be found within the confines of the larger enclosure.
Nutrition
Hermann’s tortoises are totally herbivorous and actually require very little protein in order to thrive. Their diet should be high in fibre, low in sugar, high in calcium and low in protein. These tortoises are grazing animals in terms of their feeding habitats, eating a mixture of leaves, grasses and flowers. I dig over and seed the tortoise pen Some of the author’s homeearly in the spring, so as to provide a bred Hermann’s tortoises. diverse grazing area throughout the summer. I also provide a large pile of edible plants, leaves and flowers collected from bought foodstuffs at each feed. pesticide-free areas three to four times per Calcium is essential to all tortoises, especially week. Food plants include dandelion, sow egg-producing females and growing thistle, plantain, clover, vetch, hawkbits, youngsters. Large pieces of chalk can also goosegrass, sweet/dead nettles, mallow and be placed around the pen to allow animals mixed grasses. to graze on at will, and unsurprisingly, Some supermarket-bought greens are breeding females and growing youngsters occasionally added during poorer weather, readily use this source of calcium. but keep these to a minimum. I use a range Hatchlings and juveniles are fed on which includes mixed salad greens, water a similar diet to their parents, although cress, rocket and curly kale. Flowers are also they are only offered as much as they can regularly offered, and include dandelion eat within an hour or so, once per day. flowers, lavatera (tree mallow), pansies, Dry leaves and chopped dry grasses are nasturtiums and rose petals. These are constantly available to them though, in usually relished by all of my tortoises. order to provide an extra source of fibre. However, I avoid offering fruit, because Breeding its sugar content is far too high, and will Breeding Hermann’s tortoises is remarkably cause digestive upsets, as well as creating simple. Mating will occur at any time conditions in the intestinal tract which throughout the year although it seems appear to favour the development of gut to be more common during late spring parasites such as intestinal worms and and early summer. Males generally chase microscopic flagellates. females, biting at their feet and back legs in Combined calcium-vitamin D3 an attempt to slow them down. Once the supplements are dusted on all collected and
female submits, the male then mounts her, stroking her carapace with his front legs. This courtship may go on for hours at a time though, before mating actually occurs. Male Hermann’s tortoises are pretty aggressive toward one another at this stage and it is not uncommon for them to fight each other, competing for mating rights. This behaviour is quite natural and seems important to stimulate a good mating response and so it should be allowed, provided that the tortoises do not seem to be inflicting any actual damage on each other. Females usually begin laying eggs in late April through to June, although I have had eggs laid much earlier, within days of emerging from hibernation. Nests are jug-shaped and constructed by the female digging down using her back legs. The site is chosen carefully, with females generally selecting areas of loose sandy soils in full sun. My females prefer to nest within the greenhouse area and they generally return to the same site to nest time after time. They usually lay clutches comprised of between four and eight eggs and they can produce between two and three clutches per year. Their eggs are oval in shape and measure approximately 40 x 30mm (1.6 x 1.1in). The eggs are removed and placed in an incubator at a temperature of 30-32°C (86-89°F) and a humidity of around 40%. They generally hatch within 60-70 days, but can take longer. Once the hatchlings have emerged, I place them in small plastic boxes on deep layers of clean, damp tissue paper within the incubator for a further 24 hours or so. This gives the hatchlings time to absorb any remaining yolk sac and straighten out. June 2011 17
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Feature – Hermann’s tortoise
Weight loss formula
After this period, they are then transferred directly into their juvenile accommodation. With good UVB light, reasonable temperatures, humidity and a diet similar to the adults with regular calcium and D₃ supplementation, hatchlings grow quickly with well-developed bones and shells.
The deep sleep
Hibernation in Hermann’s tortoises is an important part of their biology, especially if you intend to breed them. They will seldom breed well if at all, should they not be hibernated each year. I usually hibernate my tortoises from the end of November until the middle of February. Hibernation need not be a long drawn-out affair, and it is generally healthier for the animals if it is controlled by you from start to finish. At the beginning of November therefore, I stop feeding the tortoises, cut down their access to heat lamps by a couple of hours per day and provide daily soaks in tepid water. This is carried out until around the end of November. It is vitally important that tortoises do not enter hibernation with any food in their gut. As reptiles, their metabolism can be slow and therefore gut transit times may well be in excess of two to three weeks, which is why they cannot be hibernated straightaway. Daily soaking during the fasting period allows the tortoise to hydrate itself fully and also flushes out its gut. I choose to hibernate my animals within a fridge set at 5°C (41°F) throughout the hibernation period, although there are now incubators that can be converted easily into suitable temperature-controlled hibernation
quarters. Once the tortoises are ready to enter hibernation, I turn off all sources of heat, so as to cool them down. I then place them in wellventilated plastic boxes within the fridge. Several digital thermometers are dotted around the inside of the fridge and temperatures are read and recorded daily throughout the hibernation period. The fridge is opened for a short period daily, to allow adequate ventilation. Hatchlings are also hibernated in the same way, but are fasted for a shorter period, which lasts for just 10-14 days, and the duration of their hibernation is kept to 4-6 weeks. I prefer to place a deep substrate of 50/50 sand and soil mix within their plastic boxes, for the young tortoises to burrow into, as this prevents dehydration and stabilises their temperatures throughout the hibernation period. Hibernation is controlled purely by temperature, and so to awaken your animals, simply remove them from the fridge and place into a warm room for a few hours. Once the tortoises begin to stir, so they can gently be placed into their indoor accommodation with access to heat and UVB lighting. Healthy animals will usually resume feeding within 24 hours of waking up. Provide good access to calcium-vitamin D₃ supplements and a constant opportunity to drink and bathe. Hydration, food and optimal day time temperatures will quickly aid recovery from hibernation.
Protective measures
Hermann’s tortoises are becoming increasingly threatened in their natural environment. Habitat loss, modern farming
The tortoises’ weights are recorded in grams prior to entering hibernation and on regular occasions throughout hibernation. Animals hibernated at a constant 5°C (41°F) should generally lose only about 1% of their body weight per month. Those which have suffered illhealth or have struggled to gain weig ht throughout the summer months shou ld not be hibernated and must be give n access to heat and UVB light through out the winter months.
techniques and urbanisation of much of their natural range are putting ever-increasing pressure on the remaining wild populations. They are on the IUCN’s list of threatened species, are included on CITES Appendix II and are also listed under the European Union’s Annex A, confirming their decline. Under current legislation, captive-bred Hermann’s tortoises offered for sale should therefore come with an article 10 certificate issued by DEFRA, to confirm their origins. For full information on these requirements, contact DEFRA’s Wildlife Licensing & Registration Service, by phone on 0117 372 8774 or by email at wildlife.licensing@ animalhealth.gsi.gov.uk
In summary
Hermann’s tortoises are generally a great choice of tortoise to keep outdoors for part of the year, given the UK climate. If provided with a suitable environment and an appropriate diet, they can easily live for over 50 years, and possibly in some cases for up to a century. This is something to consider before you take on this species as a pet. These tortoises certainly represent a longterm commitment! They can become incredibly tame. Some of my Hermann’s tortoises are remarkably friendly and will actively seek me out, looking for tidbits and extra food. In fact, it is rare for me to enter their pen during the summer without picking a few lavatera flowers for them to munch on! ■
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Questions &Answers
Scorpion starter STAR advice QUESTION
Q A
Which desert species of scorpion is best to start out with?
I would personally choose the desert hairy scorpion (Hadrurus arizonensis). I kept a number of these as a child and never had any difficulties with them at all. They are an aggressive species but this ensures that they have a healthy appetite, as they will attack anything that moves! I only ever managed to breed them once, but their care is quite straightforward if you obtain a healthy individual at the outset and keep the humidity to a minimum. These scorpions are often not recommended for beginners, but provided that you are sensible and do not start prodding your pet with your fingers, then I don’t see why it shouldn’t be suitable, as their care is straightforward.
Humidity controls
Q
What is the ideal relative humidity for a desert scorpion compared with an emperor scorpion? For emperor scorpions, as a tropical forest species, I find about 80% relative humidity is ideal, but when dealing with any live animal, remember to watch closely and allow them to teach you. If you believe increasing or decreasing the figure slightly may be more beneficial, then do not be afraid to adjust the boundaries. The key thing here is observation. As for humidity levels in the case of desertdwellers, this is a harder question to answer;
A
you really need to focus on the particular species that you want to keep, before you work out the husbandry. Not all desertdwelling scorpions are the same, and their individual environments can differ greatly even over similar ranges. For example, some desert scorpions like to create burrows about 60cm (2ft) under the sand, whereas others prefer to stay on the surface, hiding away under rocks. This has a major impact. The North African or largeclawed scorpion (Scorpio maurus) does best when kept at about 65% humidity, with the increased moisture of the sand making for better tunnel construction. In comparison, the Arizona devil or stripe-tailed scorpion
Desert hairy scorpion.
(Hoffmannius spinigerus) prefers a relative humidity reading below 50%.
Feeding
Q
How often should you feed your scorpion, and do you leave it with food to find, or use tongs for feeding purposes? Without more definite insights, I cannot give you a detailed answer. Factors such as the species of the scorpion, its gender, size and also its age are all relevant factors. As a guide, young scorpions feed more frequently than adults, requiring small prey of an appropriate size. As scorpions start to
A
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grow and mature however, so they then start to feed less frequently, but on larger prey. My advice would be to use common sense as a guide to gauge the correct amount of food for your scorpion, based on its appetite. If in doubt, look at a number of photos of that species in the wild on the Internet. This will give you a rough guide of what you want to aim for - and be careful that your arachnid does not start to become too fat! I personally only use tongs routinely for scorpions that are inactive feeders and show little or no interest in their food. I also use tongs for offering pinkies to larger individuals. This type of food is useful to fatten females up before and after they give birth. If you prefer feeding your scorpion this way on a regular basis, then that is up to you. I do allow mine to hunt invertebrate prey as far as possible, because it encourages them to be active. Their hunting behaviour is interesting to watch as well.
Group living
Q
Which species can be kept in groups, and if they are kept in this way, how big a vivarium would be required for up to four scorpions? A good range of species can be kept communally. They include the emperor scorpion (Pandinus imperator), the European yellow-tailed (Euscorpius flavicaudis); Malaysian forest scorpion (Heterometrus spinifer); the Israeli black scorpion (Hottentotta judaicus); the common striped scorpion (Centruroides vittatus) and the rusty thick-tailed scorpion (Babycurus jacksoni). Some people may disagree with the above, as there are different views on keeping scorpions together on a regular basis. I have personally found that whenever I tried to keep emperor scorpions in groups, they would constantly fight,
A
Do you need a helping hand or advice?
but other people’s experience is that they are quite tolerant of each other. Yet when I experimented with other scorpions which are known for their aggression, they seemed to be more amenable to their companions! This therefore is not something that is set in stone. My advice would always be to go with a species that is easy to keep and very docile, if you want a group. I kept rusty thick-tailed scorpions in colonies of 25+ for many years without any problems and in my opinion, I’d say this species would be the best choice. Rather than a vivarium, I would opt for a plastic-type terrarium for housing, as here you could easily keep 4-6 individuals in a 60x 30cm (2x1ft) enclosure.
Drinking water
Q
When it comes to providing water, do you use a dish or silica gel/ cotton wool? And do you offer water to desert species? I personally don’t use either. For forest/ jungle type set-ups, I simply have a small rodent pottery bowl filled with gravel and water. This prevents any risk of the scorpions drowning, and at the same time, it also prevents the water from becoming soiled with the substrate.
A
I find the gel is expensive and pretty pointless. The cotton wool is too absorbent for my liking and it attracts mould growth quickly. To combat this, you could just change the cotton wool constantly but I feel that two or three day old water is beneficial for the scorpions as it helps their immune system. I only use the water bowl method for adults though. In the case of youngsters, I simply spray the enclosure every two days. When it comes to desert scorpions, again you need to know the habits of the particular species. Desert hairy scorpions get all the moisture they need from the air and their food, and excess moisture - which will raise the humidity in their surroundings - can be the death of them. However, other species occurring in similar terrain prefer to drink water droplets on the surface of the sand. Christian Castille.
Emperor scorpion.
I have personally “ found that whenever I
tried to keep emperor scorpions in groups, they would constantly fight, but other people’s experience is that they are quite tolerant of each other. Email your queries to prk.ed@kelsey.co.uk or write to the address on page 74. A selection of submitted questions will appear here every month, and a prize of Vetark products will be awarded to the writer of the Star Question. Regrettably, replies can only be given through this column, and if you are worried about the health of your animal, seek veterinary advice without delay.
”
June 2011 21
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Shop Profile Featured this month: Hastings Reptile & Aquatic Centre
O
ne of the first things you notice walking into this shop is the real sense of pride that is evident here. Its owner, Wendy Connor, has been in the pet trade since she was seven years old, and her experience and expertise is very apparent. Hastings Reptile & Aquatic Centre started trading in 2002, and the business has now grown under her care from a small market shop into a “not-to-be-missed” attraction in the town. “We really want our customers to see something they haven’t experienced before, ” she explains. “I originally chose this site, opposite Hastings’ main shopping centre, because it is very easy to find and it is still ideal for this reason today.” Reptiles have been the core of the business since it began. There are 60 vivariums and four display units, with everything being beautifully presented. It shows that owner and staff care about their animals, and the amount of investment that has been made in the shop is very apparent. As one of the staff remarked “It seems refits really are a way of life here. Wendy is always updating, changing and expanding our ranges!”
Quality advice and stock
Every effort is made to help customers take the right choices. “We pride ourselves on the information that we give. We encourage everyone to research and ask as many questions as they need, in order to feel confident about keeping the animal which they are purchasing,” explains Wendy. “We know there are a number of different options and finding the right solution to suit both animal and customer is really something our staff have become experts in.” Woma python.
Crested gecko.
With impressive displays of custommade set-ups housing a wide range of top quality lizards, snakes, scorpions, tarantulas, tortoises and even some African pygmy hedgehogs, Wendy makes every effort to display all stock in-store in the best possible way. With newly-added hatchling displays made up of Exo Terra tanks, even the praying mantids get their own enclosures. She is currently working on a ‘new attraction’ section that will see more unusual and larger reptiles being introduced to the shop. Having purchased their pet, many owners become frequent visitors, returning to buy everything that their animals need, on a regular basis. There are three large aisles dedicated to dry goods and livefood, which is delivered twice weekly on Tuesdays and Fridays. You can find a very extensive range of popular products here, with new lines being constantly added. “The shop stocks all the major ranges of specialist suppliers including Zoo Med, Lucky Reptile, ProRep, Arcadia, Exo Terra and ND vivariums,” says Wendy. “But if, by any chance, we do not have an item in stock, then we are always happy to order it in for customers and call them when it arrives.” As specialist suppliers, the shop can help enthusiasts in other ways too. Both standard and bespoke vivariums up to 2.75m (9ft) long can be supplied in almost 20 different wooden styles, all sealed and made to the highest standard. “We are happy to get quotes for any design and can even arrange free delivery in the local area for all vivs up to 1.8m (6ft) long,” adds Wendy.
Livestock
The whole team at the Hastings Reptile & Aquatic Centre is experienced in all aspects of herpetology and they frequently give talks to schools, at the nearby Blue Reef Aquarium (where they love reptiles too!) and even to the local constabulary. There are also regular in-store handling sessions. “We all really enjoy having reptile handling hours throughout the week, giving visitors the opportunity to interact and learn about some of
White’s tree frog.
our fantastic reptiles,” she says. “With our extensive range of species, there is always something different to experience, and these events appeal to people of all ages.” A wide and ever-changing variety of livestock is available, and it is often possible to track down specific species which customers require. Widely-kept reptiles such as leopard geckos and corn snakes are always available, along with a variety of more unusual ones such as woma and dwarf Burmese pythons, silk back bearded dragons, Jackson’s chameleons, red-footed tortoises and others. In addition to reptiles, the shop also features a large aquatic section with over 100 aquariums, which is currently being expanded to cater for marine fish. New stock is also available now to cater for the upcoming pond season. ■
Plan a visit Where: Hastings Reptile & Aquatic Centre, Basement 199-201 Queens Road, Hastings, East Sussex TN34 1RG. Tel. 01424 718562. Web: http://www.nonstopreptiles.co.uk (presently under construction); email: info@hastingsreptileandaquatics.co.uk Opening times: Seven days a week. Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm. Sunday 11am-4pm. Getting there: Easily accessible from Hastings mainline station, which lies about 5 minutes walk away, to the west, and also by road. The shop is set back at the junction of South Terrace and Queens Road (which forms the A2101).
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4. Hastings Reptile & Aquatic Centre Practical Reptile Keeping June 2011 issue (19584) - REVISED.indd 2
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Back to basics with
leopard geckos
The move to create new natural strains I
count myself as being a very lucky person. My job takes me around the world looking at and helping to improve the captive care of reptiles. I have been involved in the UK pet trade for over 30 years and have seen things move through cycles, as particular species become popular and then fade away. Over the last few years, the interest in high-end colour morphs has clearly exploded. Thousands of hobby keepers produce young of all colours and sizes. Whether this is corn snakes, ball pythons, bearded dragons or leopard geckos, our understanding of genetics is increasing month-upon-month and some outstanding colours are being produced, but at what cost?
What has gone wrong?
In the case of the leopard gecko, I have been worried for quite some time that the gene pool is becoming too weak. Many of the captive-bred animals offered now
are skinny and small in size, susceptible to bacterial and viral infections and of course, the parasitic wasting disease known as cryptosporidosis. There are further worries too, surrounding specific morphs, such as the enigma. This is now the subject of a breeder survey, with the aim of gaining a better overall understanding of the neurological problems that can be linked with it, as explained in last month’s Practical Reptile Keeping. (Email g.gecko@hotmail.co.uk for more details). Things have clearly gone wrong. Undoubtedly, part of the problem is that a huge number of leopard geckos have been bred from a proportionately small foundation stock. When breeding of morphs took off, this was where people’s interest went, and away from breeding normals. The aim instead was to explore the genetic diversity in this species as far and as fast as possible. The result has almost certainly been a significantly increased level
of inbreeding within existing strains. The leopard gecko’s behaviour has changed too. These lizards are crepuscular in nature. This means that they are most active at dawn and dusk. They inhabit the semi-arid region of central Asia, in parts of Afghanistan, India and Pakistan. Cold night temperatures and blazing days have meant that leopard geckos have developed the ability to absorb UVB through their dark, thin skin in low light and at a fast rate. Good levels of UVB have been measured up to 15cm (6in) inside a leopard gecko’s burrow. This means that it could stay here and assimilate all the beneficial ultra-violet light that it needs, without having to leave the safety of the tunnel. This may be why the predominant colour of a wild leopard gecko’s head is mostly black. An animal which uses light in nature to survive must therefore require it in vivarium surroundings too. When you have bloodlines that try to avoid all light, then something has gone fundamentally wrong.
All photos courtesy Paul Wiley/Rep-Tech.
Most neutral observers would concede that strains of leopard geckos today are not are vigorous as used to be the case, before the creation of colour morphs started to predominate. John Courteney-Smith recently made an unexpected discovery though, which could be the way forward.
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Feature – Leopard geckos A different approach
Any of the widely-bred species as mentioned previously, such as corn snakes, bearded dragons and ball pythons could all begin to develop problems if we are not careful. This came to mind again recently when I visited Paul Wiley at Rep-Tech in Windsor, Berkshire. The company is a reptile dry goods and livestock wholesaler. During my visit, Paul was kind enough to show me some first generation (F1) leopard gecko babies that he had bred from wild-caught stock. Although I had seen wild leopard geckos in the past, I was struck by how huge - relatively! - and vividly-coloured these normals now appeared, compared with today’s captivebred strains. It is easy to forget how things change! The parents of the youngsters had been brought in from Pakistan about two years ago. They are housed in square vivariums, with lots of hides and shedding caves provided. The hatchlings have been kept under 12% UVB lighting from the time they hatched, along with their parents, in thermostatically-controlled surroundings. Their breeding was not originally planned. Their parents were actually those which Paul decided to retain, as they were rather thin when they reached him. Once he had conditioned them, he then decided to pair the adults up, rather than selling them. They are now breeding annually, with the adults being kept together in a group, although the females are kept separate for a period of rest after laying.
Clear distinctions
All photos courtesy Paul Wiley/Rep-Tech.
Paul was kind enough to let me see the young lizards at close quarters. When I opened the vivarium door, I noticed how these fit, well-muscled geckos were not afraid to run full pelt at
I had seen wild leopard geckos “ inAlthough the past, I was struck by how huge relatively! - and vividly-coloured these normals now appeared, compared with today’s captive-bred strains. the doors and they even make grunting sounds. They seemingly had no fear at all, and were very different indeed from some of the slow, rather sickly-looking babies that I have seen of late. Interestingly, Paul told me that both weight and size-wise, these normal leopard geckos are at the same stage when they hatch as a captive morph which is four weeks old. Fearless and bold, they were stunning. It was so nice to see natural colouration
”
and normal behaviour in these lively lizards. No cryptosporidiosis has been found in this new strain. They are fed a full and varied diet, including waxworms. Supplementation is monitored as Paul feels that the lighting is providing the essential Vitamin D3 although calcium powder is offered regularly.
The way forward?
could introducing wild blood WHAT DO Sostraight back into the existing YOU THINK? leopard gene pool be of benefit?
My personal opinion is yes. I feel that this species is in danger of being bred into an unsustainably weak animal. Time spent by introducing these completely unrelated bloodlines would increase the physical size again, hopefully introduce more vigour and may even offer some protection against disease and early death. A wild-type leopard gecko kept in the right way could again have a lifespan of about 20 years, compared with the 5-8 years now being talked of in the trade. There is also a strong case for a reassessment of the normal form to be carried out as it deserves to be more popular. Without all the morphs in the background, these lizards would justifiable be appreciated more in their own right. It would also be nice to think that some breeders would be interested in joining Paul, and taking on this specific challenge too. ■
Do you agree with John? Let us know your views - emai l prk.ed@kelsey.co .uk
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Feature – Common toad
The story of Col and Merl
In the spring of 2006, John Cornelius and his wife took in five rescued tadpoles of the common toad (Bufo bufo). Little could they have guessed how things would turn out.
T
oad tadpoles are quite easy to distinguish from those of frogs, being smaller and blacker in colour. We reared them on bits of lettuce and flaked fish food, as well as the natural micro-organisms which came in their water. This was poured into a small plastic tank and topped up with bottled spring water, to avoid the chlorine compounds in tapwater, as we had no dechlorinator available. Sadly, in spite of our efforts, two of the tadpoles died at an early stage. The remaining three seemed to be thriving, although one was always smaller than the rest. All was going well, until soon after their hindlegs appeared, when one of the two larger survivors got trapped in the plastic syphon tube during routine cleaning. Although physically unharmed, it appeared to have died of shock soon afterwards. We were then left with one strong and boisterous tadpole and the ‘runt’, which despite its small size seemed fiesty and determined to survive. As soon as the forelimbs began to appear, we carefully reduced the water level, and added a couple of pieces of floating cork mat and bark, where the young toads could emerge from the water. Both tadpoles absorbed their tails more or less simultaneously, in a matter of hours, as occurs in the wild. If the group metamorphoses together, so there is a greater chance that some will survive.
on the pieces of bark, tiny but determined scraps of life, each being no bigger than my little fingernail. Anticipating some difficulty in finding food small enough for them, we hit on the idea of pruning some roses which were fortuitously infested with aphids. We placed the branches in the tank, with the stalks left standing in the water so as to keep them fresh. The tank soon became alive with greenfly, and the tiny toads hunted them down determinedly. It was - and still is amusing to see the toads accidentally slap one another in the face with their tongues
hue for a time, as though they were rare colour morphs, but this eventually wore off. They are now much-loved household pets. Home is a spacious vivarium, planted out with ferns, small parlour palms and the like, as well as rocks and retreats. There is also a little bridge (intended for aquaria) which they became fond of lurking under, rather like two little trolls. Col and Merl, as they were christened, are great characters. They seem to take a genuine interest in any activity going on in the room, and will respond to music and images from the radio and television. They have been reared on a staple diet of crickets, mealworms and waxworms, fed in moderation of course, as toads do not know when to stop eating! Although terrestrial, they still enjoy a good soak in their water bowl containing bottled water and which, conveniently enough, they also use as a toilet, making cleaning an easy task. Toads have actually been something of a tradition in my family. I can remember my long-deceased paternal grandmother, who was born in 1895, telling me of a toad which lived in her own grandmother’s outside privy for many years, surviving on black beetles and spiders! My late father of course was a herpetologist for almost all of his 90year life, and had a keen interest in them too. I would obviously not suggest that anyone should deliberately capture wild native species, but if any toad tadpoles do need rescuing, then you are likely to be in for an amusing and rewarding time. ■
It was - and still is - amusing “ to see the toads accidentally slap one another in the face with their tongues in their feeding frenzy.
Out on land
The two toadlets were soon hopping about
”
in their feeding frenzy. An interesting side-effect of providing the rose stems was that that the toadlets decided to become temporarily arboreal, and they spent a lot of time clambering about among them. Next, we started a culture of fruit flies (Drosophila), by simply placing half a banana in a jar by the back door. These tiny flies were also greedily devoured and the two baby toads were soon able to move on to the smaller sizes of commercially-available silent brown crickets. Their growth continued apace, although the size difference between them remained constant. Their early greenfly diet apparently gave the toadlets an unusual bright green
26 Practical Reptile Keeping
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Growing Old f o e r a c e h T Gracefully lderly reptiles e
What are the signs of old age in reptiles, and the illnesses and disorders most likely to affect them? In this article, Hannah Salisbury M.Sc. B.Sc. (Hons) AnSci also discusses the extra care that may be needed by elderly reptiles, and the steps involved in making what is often the most difficult but important decision of all - when is euthanasia required?
Typical lifespan
As with all animals, pet reptiles entering the senior stages of their life will undergo a number of changes to their physiology and anatomy. These frequently necessitate alterations in routine, so as to keep them comfortable and content in their final years. Thanks to the huge diversity and variation in body type, size, physiology and anatomical differences evident in reptiles, so it is not surprising that the average or typical lifespan in captivity for different snakes, lizards, chelonians and crocodilians varies significantly between species. As a result of their unique coldblooded anatomy and slow metabolisms, many reptiles and amphibians have a surprisingly long lifespan, when compared with mammals or birds of a similar size. The popular fire-bellied toad (Bombina orientalis) for example has been known to
live for more than 20 years, while its less exotic relative, the common European toad (Bufo bufo) has been recorded as living for up to 36 years. The concept of ‘old age’ in reptiles therefore needs to take account the animal’s predicted life expectancy. It is also worth pointing out that pet reptiles generally live far longer than their wild counterparts. As a rough guide, when evaluating the care requirements for individual animals, any reptile that has reached or passed an age in years equal to three-quarters (75%) of the typical lifespan for that species can be considered as ‘senior’. Those in the last 85% of their predicted lifespan are often well into their final years. As an example, a lizard with a predicted captive lifespan of approximately 18-20 years in captivity may be expected to start to show signs of old age between 13.5–15
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Feature – Growing old years old, while a tortoise with a predicted lifespan of 80 years may not show any signs of slowing down until after its sixtieth birthday.
Fire-bellied toads are potentially long-lived.
Early life impacts
However, this formula only serves as a rough indicator of relative age. There are a number of other factors that may significantly and adversely affect the predicted lifespan of an individual. Unfortunately, these may not be apparent if the reptile has passed through several homes or if its history is unknown, as in the case of many reptiles from rescue centers. In particular, lizards and chelonians that have been unfortunate enough to suffer from nutritional and metabolic disorders such as metabolic bone disease (MBD), stunting due to underfeeding or inappropriate diets during their juvenile years of life are more likely to show signs of premature aging and die earlier than those which have been kept and fed correctly. Similarly, females of all species that are allowed to breed at too young an age, or are allowed to produce repeated clutches of eggs or litters of young each year unchecked are also much more likely to show signs of stunting, age quickly and die early. At the opposite end of the spectrum, certain individuals will continue to thrive into their old age and remain remarkably healthy and vigorous, despite their advancing years, often living well past their predicted life expectancy. As a result, there is still much argument and discrepancies between different sources regarding the ‘typical’ lifespan of a number of species. A leopard gecko, for example, can be expected to live anywhere between 8 and 20 years in vivarium surroundings, if well-kept under optimal conditions and provided with a nutritionally complete and appropriate diet, with some exceptional individuals
living even longer. This is where genetic factors may also come into play, but these are not understood at present.
Signs of old age
As with other animals, reptiles reaching their senior years will often undergo slight changes in their appearance and habits as the effects of aging on their bodies become more apparent. Being able to identify these signs is important not only when selecting animals for purchase, but also in making sure that their husbandry is appropriate to their particular needs. Some of these signs are more obvious than others – perhaps the most noticeable change seen in reptiles used regularly for breeding is a gradual loss of fecundity once the animal passes its prime breeding age. This is most apparent
from the way in which oviparous females producing smaller clutches, with a higher percentage of infertile or imperfect eggs. Older females may also be more likely to experience reproductive disorders such as egg-laying induced MBD due to poor calcium absorption, or hormonal imbalances preventing correct calcium metabolism. There is also a greater risk of follicular stasis or dystocia as the result of a reduced muscle tone in the oviducts of aging females, and this can prevent them from laying their eggs normally. In green iguanas (Iguana iguana) particularly, older females are also sometimes affected by the development of cysts on their ovaries. These occur as the hormones responsible for regulating the natural ovulatory cycle begin to decrease. This change can also leave the ovaries and surrounding tissues vulnerable to the development of tumours later in life as well.
Chameleons such as this male Jackson’s (Chamaeleo jacksoni) naturally have a relatively short lifespan.
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Changing profile
Other physical changes that are often useful indicators of a reptile’s advancing years include a fall-off in body condition, as the result of an inability to maintain fat stores, combined with a gradual atrophy of muscle. In elderly lizards such as geckos and bearded dragons, there is often a progressive loss of muscle tone in the legs and down the back, while the amount of fat stored in the tail begins to decrease, reflecting changes in the animal’s metabolism. As a result, elderly lizards often appear to be thin, with a prominent spine and hip bones, along with a distended abdomen which gives them a ‘pot-bellied’ appearance. This is thought to be due to a progressive reduction in the correct functioning of the kidneys and liver with age. It causes them to carry higher proportions of fluid and fat around the internal organs, rather than generating the fat stores in the tail as is seen in younger individuals. The lizard’s face may also become more angular and the snout will seem more prominent and bony in appearance, especially in the case of monitors and green iguanas. The legs and joints may appear thickened, because of arthritis or gout, slowing the reptile down. Snakes seldom show many physical signs of age other than a slight prominence of the spine. Female corn snakes do, however, sometimes develop fatty deposits called ‘hips’ on either side of the spine just anterior to the cloaca and these become more noticeable with age. Older reptiles are also more likely to show duller, less vibrant colouration. Wild individuals especially may have noticeable scars
Distribution of fat stores alter in older lizards, with such changes being particularly noticeable in species such as the African fat-tailed gecko (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus).
or imperfections of the skin and scales from previous wounds, injuries and infections acquired during the course of the animal’s lifetime. As their bodies alter with age, so many older reptiles will also display corresponding changes in their behaviour as well. Many lizards in particular will show decreased mobility because of stiffness in the legs. This makes them more reluctant to venture far from their favoured hides and basking spots. They will spend an increased amount of time resting and sleeping, while reduced mobility and failing eyesight may mean that they struggle to hunt and catch fast-moving livefoods such as crickets. All of these signs of old age should be taken into account when caring for an elderly reptile.
Husbandry of older reptiles
It is important that the husbandry, enclosures and diets of elderly reptiles are altered to suit their changing needs. With lizards and snakes in particular, it is often wise to
maintain elderly individuals in a relatively simplistic set up with just the necessary hides, water bowls and basking rocks included, as required for the species concerned. The aim is to create an environment where the reptile can move around easily and comfortably, without any risk of becoming trapped or falling from high branches or ledges. Arboreal species such as elderly chameleons may experience stiffness and pain in their joints and begin to struggle with maintaining balance and grip when climbing. Where possible therefore, climbing branches should be positioned low down in the vivarium so that if the lizard does take a tumble, it is unlikely to Corn snakes are one of the few species of snake that can show signs of aging.
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Feature – Growing old injure itself. Using newspaper, linoleum or tiles as substrate is useful, as it allows obvious changes in the reptile’s faeces and urates to be spotted quickly, as well as ensuring the vivarium can be cleaned and disinfected easily. As has been mentioned, elderly reptiles are prone to progressive loss of body condition and mass, so weekly weighing and recording of an individual’s weight is important in monitoring its overall body condition. This will serve to highlight any potential problems linked to a sudden or dramatic weight loss. While reptiles seldom lose their teeth as elderly mammals often do, their food and the way that it is presented may need to be adjusted to ensure their nutritional needs continue to be met. Elderly snakes may have difficulty in digesting larger prey, and this can sometimes lead to regurgitation. They may therefore have to be offered meals consisting of several smaller prey items, such as medium mice or rat weaners to avoid this problem. Omnivorous species such as bearded dragons may lose interest in locusts and crickets as they age and develop a preference for more easily-caught mealworms and vegetarian-based diets (See the March 2011 issue for more information). These can be supplemented once or twice per week with small amounts of mashed, hard-boiled egg to provide extra protein if needed. Purely insectivorous species such as leopard geckos may need additional help to feed, by providing them with smaller, softbodied prey items such as gut-loaded brown crickets and waxworms. These can be offered using Sloughing in lizards can become more of a problem with age.
Older bearded dragons may prefer mealworms to locusts.
blunt-ended forceps or provided in a shallow dish, so that the lizard does not have to hunt and chase its food. It is equally important to make sure that sufficient food is consumed by your elderly reptile to promote regular bowel movements. This will serve to prevent constipation and impaction of the lower gut, with gentle bathing in lukewarm water once or twice per week often being useful as a way of encouraging reptiles to defaecate. Older animals are also more likely to experience bouts of diarrhoea if the rhythm of their gut is disturbed. You need to ensure the cloacal region is kept clean and free of faeces by regularly swabbing the area with damp cotton wool, so as to prevent skin irritation and infections. Other healthcare considerations which are
particularly important when dealing with older animals include paying close attention to, and often helping with, the sloughing process. Many elderly lizards and soft-skinned geckos in particular seem to be prone to dysecdysis – incomplete or problematic shedding of the skin, possibly due to hormonal changes. Gentle bathing and soaking in lukewarm water and careful rubbing away of retained skin with moistened cotton buds is usually sufficient to overcome this problem. Take particular care to ensure all the skin is removed from the toes and the tip of the tail, so as to avoid the tissue here dying back because the blood flow is restricted - a condition known as avascular necrosis. Older animals are more likely to have decreased immunity against infections, and so extra attention should be paid to ensuring they are provided with correct temperatures and humidity to prevent chills and avoid the development of bacterial infections. Regular cleaning and disinfection with a suitable cleaning agent such as F10 will help to minimise pathogens and parasites in the vivarium environment, reducing the risk of an elderly reptile developing illnesses such as respiratory infections. Any unusual symptoms such as regurgitation, depression, anorexia, tremors or fits should be investigated by a suitably qualified reptile vet at the earliest opportunity.
Neoplastic disease and cancer in reptiles
Neoplasia is a general term used to describe a range of disorders in which cells develop abnormally, giving rise to a potentially June 2011 31
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Repeated snout injuries in green water dragons can predispose to the type of cancer known as a squamous cell carcinoma.
harmful mass affecting any of the body’s organ or tissue systems. Neoplastic growths, often referred to as tumours, are classed as either benign (non-cancerous), potentially malignant, or malignant (cancerous). While neoplastic diseases may develop at any age, they are more likely to occur in older animals because of an increased likelihood of cell mutations – faults that occur when the original DNA is copied as new cells are formed. This may then cause the cells to grow out of control, resulting in a tumour. Environmental factors such as exposure to radiation or carcinogenic (cancerinducing) chemicals can also stimulate such mutations and make the development of malignant cancers more likely. If left untreated, cells from a single cancerous tumour may metastasise, spreading to surrounding tissues and organs, creating secondary tumours. Eventually these tumours invade and disrupt the normal function of various body systems, ultimately causing organ failure and death. The development of neoplastic growths is relatively common in reptiles, with a number of different types having been identified. These include ■ Osteosarcomas – cancers of the bones and cartilaginous tissues, often presenting as firm lumps or nodules on the spine and long bones of the limbs. ■ Lymphoscarcomas – one of the most commonly-seen cancers in reptiles, these
are tumours originating from the lymphatic cells associated with the animal’s immune system. These aggressive tumours may occur anywhere in the body, and typically affect multiple organ systems through metastatic spread. ■ Adenocarcinomas – cancers of the glandular surfaces, most commonly associated with the digestive tract, in the stomach and intestines, and also the kidneys, with renal tumours being
particularly common in snakes and chelonians. ■ Squamous cell carcinomas – often occurring on the body, tumours affecting the squamous epithelium may be mistaken for abscesses because of the associated swelling and ulcer-like appearance. They may develop at sites following inflammation or infection, being linked for example with cases of ‘nose rub’ in green water dragons (Physignathus cocincinus).
The lifespan of leopard geckos can vary quite widely.
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Feature – Growing old Many cancers affecting the internal organs go undiagnosed until their size and location begins to have a detrimental effect on the body systems. They typically cause a general decrease in body condition and overall vitality, with affected patients often becoming anorexic, depressed and lethargic. More obvious tumours affecting the skin, subcutaneous tissues and skeletal system are generally identified much sooner as ‘lumps’. As some neoplastic growths are not harmful, differential diagnosis of large internal growths by taking an aspiration biopsy – drawing a small sample of the growth tissue into a needle which is then sent for laboratory analysis - will help to determine whether surgery is necessary. This is particularly important in smaller reptiles where surgical anaesthesia presents a particular risk. Most cutaneous growths can be relatively easy to remove, and surgical removal of the entire tumour is often carried out, with samples of the growth then being sent off for analysis. Diagnostic imaging in the form of x-rays and ultrasound is also important in visualising the internal organs and identifying whether or not the growth has metastasised elsewhere in the body. Diagnosis of the tumour samples is carried out using cytology and histological laboratory analysis, in which samples of cells from the tumour are coloured, using specific biological staining agents, and then examined closely under a high-powered microscope. This enables specific features that identify the type of growth to be determined, including whether or not the tumour is malignant, and if it is likely to have metastasised to other tissues. While cutting out tumours or freezing them (a process known as cryosurgery) are usually the main forms of treatment, there have been various attempts to use radiation and chemotherapeutic therapies frequently used in other companion animals to prevent reptiles developing further tumours, or to send the cancer into remission altogether. However, such treatments have generally proved to be unsuccessful. Many reptile patients suffering from malignant cancers experience recurrent tumours later on following initial surgery. In cases where a particularly aggressive form of malignant growth or the presence of metastases is confirmed or suspected, you will probably have to make a decision about whether it may be kinder to have the animal put to sleep rather than to undergo further surgery.
Time to say goodbye
The word ‘euthanasia’ originates from the ancient Greek meaning ‘good death’, and is the process of bringing about a deliberate and painless death to a living creature in order to alleviate or prevent pain and suffering. While it is often emotionally difficult and upsetting for the owner, the decision to end an animal’s life humanely, so as to prevent discomfort or distress, is often
Abnormal shell growth in tortoises can lead to premature death, being an indicator of metabolic problems.
the most important act of kindness a reptile keeper may have to make, with regard to the welfare of their pet. Knowing when the time has come may, in some situations, be a clear decision – particularly in the case of emergencies when the reptile has experienced a traumatic accident or acute illness, or following the
diagnosis of an aggressive and terminal disease such as cancer. However, in the case of elderly reptiles showing a gradual decrease in activity and vitality, many owners will need the guidance and honest advice of a specialist veterinary surgeon, to determine when their pet can no longer enjoy a good quality of life, with euthanasia becoming the most humane option.
How euthanasia should be carried out
The standard procedure for putting a reptile to sleep is the same as for most other companion animals. However, because of the particular physiology of these animals, which allows them to withstand hypoxia (lack of oxygen) and acute hypothermia (chilling) for up to several hours, so additional precautionary measures must be taken to ensure death has occurred and there is no possibility of the animal recovering. The standard veterinary method of euthanasia involves administering a fatal overdose of injectable anaesthetic – usually a solution of pentobarbital – which results in an immediate depression of the central nervous system. This causes the animal to fall unconscious immediately, entering into a ‘deep sleep’ and then breathing stops, followed by brain death due to lack of oxygen and cardiac arrest (heart failure). When performed by a qualified veterinary surgeon, euthanasia by barbiturate overdose is rapid and painless. It is essential that the vet confirms death a few minutes later by checking for an absence of normal reflexes and heartbeat, which can be confirmed as well by Doppler ultrasound. ■
DIY euthanasia – don’t do it! When the reptile-keeping hobby was in its infancy and little was known about the anatomy and physiology of these animals, it was a commonly-held belief that pain-free euthanasia could be achieved simply by putting the sick or injured reptile into a normal household freezer. However, this myth has since been disproven. Extensive research has revealed that a reptile being put into a freezer will enter a torpid state, in which it remains mentally alert and able to experience pain and distress while being physically unable to move. The animal remains alive as its blood and tissues begin to freeze and crystallise in these surroundings. As a result, reptile vets and specialists now unanimously agree that freezing is an extremely painful and unacceptably cruel method for ending a reptile’s life. Euthanasia should therefore always be carried out by a veterinary surgeon, using an anaesthetic overdose for this purpose. June 2011 33
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June 2011 35
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COMPANY ND vivariums INSIGHT
I
t was about five years ago that ND Aquatics Ltd. decided to branch out from their established business of building aquaria and cabinets, and expanded into the growing reptile market. Since then, their vivariums have attracted a growing following, being recommended by trade specialists and also individual customers, particularly those seeking something different from a standard run-of-the mill vivarium. ND specialise in manufacturing high quality products - not just traditional vivariums, but also attractive pieces of furniture incorporating vivarium housing which would grace any room. They have rapidly established an enviable reputation as a bespoke manufacturer too, supplying one-off units that other vivarium suppliers shy away from producing. Even better, from the customer’s viewpoint, is the fact that although their prices are very competitive, there is no compromise on quality. This is made possible partly thanks to more than 15 years of experience, in terms of manufacturing pet housing. During this time, ND have built up a network of contacts that allow them to source quality materials at fair prices. This is not at an environmental cost, however, as they only deal with suppliers that have FSC accredited certification by BM TRADA. FSC (the Forest Stewardship Council) is an international, non-profit making association. Its membership includes environmental and social groups plus progressive forestry and wood retail companies working in partnership to improve forest management worldwide.
A fresh approach
If you are tired of purchasing flat-pack vivariums that never seem to fit together properly, you will not have this problem with a ND product. All their units are supplied pre-assembled, which also means that you can be certain that there are no parts missing! Nor do they use thin hardboard backs either, which will not last. Their vivariums are made throughout from 18mm (0.7in) melamine-faced chipboard. Although melamine is waterproof, the chipboard itself can swell if it get wet, and so ND seal all their vivariums with a safe silicone sealant, to provide protection against damp. This will also help to exclude parasites - notably snake mites - from being able to establish themselves within the body of the unit. Good ventilation is important in any vivarium, but can be overlooked, although not in an ND unit. Not only does the company incorporate fitted vents as standard, but they have also designed their own vents which have cable access cutout slots, providing an easy means to run electrical cable into the unit. As an optional extra, they will even fix the electrical fittings inside the vivarium too. Smooth access is guaranteed, with 4mm (0.15in) plastic glass tracks, and the front glass doors
are removable, with the glass used meeting all appropriate safety standards. Standard float glass is used in vivariums with a height of up to 61cm (24in), while taller vivariums incorporate toughened glass conforming to BS6206. “Amongst our most popular lines at present are taller arboreal vivariums, for amphibians such as dartfrogs” says John, who helps to manufacture the units, in the company’s specialist workshops in Hertford. “Our large vivariums, measuring up to 2.75m (9ft) long, are also selling incredibly well. People are buying these for large snakes and monitor lizards, which seem to be becoming very popular at present.” Just recently, at the other end of the market, the company has also introduced their so-called ‘S-Style’ range, which is particularly suitable for smaller creatures, such as leopard gecko and spiders. These units are equipped with hinged lids complete with toggle catches for extra security. Another feature of ND’s designs is the very wide choice of finishes available for their vivariums. The new S-Style range is being produced in beech, American oak and black ash. ■
Further information You can find many of ND’s vivarum designs on their website at <http://www. ndaquatics.co.uk/?pg=24#Vivariums_ Gallery> and a list of retailers that currently stock their products and can place an order for you.
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reptile FOCUS
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Gargoyle gecko The unusual name of these lizards, which average about 15cm (6in) from snout to vent, is derived from the swellings on their bodies, particularly around the head, coupled with their rather striking overall appearance. Their colouration is remarkably variable, ranging from shades of grey through to red. First described in 1869, the species inhabits southern parts of the island of New Caledonia, which lies to the south-east of New Guinea. Gargoyle geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus) are found there in the scrub forest, although their numbers are declining, as the result of deforestation. In common with many other geckos, they become active at night. They hunt insects, and reproduce by means of eggs, with females laying two per clutch. Although gargoyle geckos are represented in collections, they are not as commonly bred as the crested gecko (R. cilatus), which also occurs in the same area of New Caledonia. Both species require similar care.
June 2011 39
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Christian’s Clinic
If you’re facing a particular problem with one of your reptiles, the likelihood is that someone has been there before, and had a similar experience, but what is the answer? Reptile enthusiast Christian Castille is well-known for his highly practical and innovative solutions, and here, he continues last month’s theme about burns and their treatment.
T
hermal burns caused by heat are actually quite straightforward to treat, provided that the injury does not extend deep down into the subcutaneous tissue. One of the most vital things, however, is to keep the snake in clean surroundings. Transfer it to an enclosure which has been scrubbed beforehand with a suitable disinfectant that is safe for reptiles, such as F10. This should help to protection it from subsequent infection. In terms of heating this new enclosure, keep it as safe as possible. You can still use a heat mat, but it will be better to reduce the desired temperature range, so as to minimise any risk of further injury. However, the downside of this is that the snake’s immune system will not be as effective in protecting it against infections at this lower temperature. As part of the treatment, a medicine called silver sulfadiazine works very well in my experience. It is often sold under the trade name of Flamazine®, for treating human burns, and it is an amazing cream to use but it is prescription-only within the UK so you will need to obtain it via your vet. However, I have also used a 1:1 ratio of Savlon cream and aloe vera extract and found that this seems to work just as well.
Natural treatment
Manuka honey is a little-known remedy that many European reptile-keepers have been using very successfully for years. They refer to it as ‘apitherapy’. It has to be the active form of this particular honey, which
Painful symptoms is collected by bees from the manuka (tea tree) bushes in New Zealand. Its potency is measured in terms of its UMF® - Unique Manuka Factor rating - and the higher this figure, so the more powerful the honey, in therapeutic terms. You can obtain manuka in health food stores, pharmacies and similar outlets, and it is available on the internet too. When you buy it, make sure it is a form regulated by the MHRA and has a rating of at least 10 and preferably 15, although this will be more expensive. Recent observations have shown that many wild animals will actively seek out this honey and eat it or rub in it to their bodies. It may help to protect them against infection and is credited with speeding up Left: The source of manuka honey in New Zealand - the flowering plant known as Leptospermum scoparium.
After sustaining a thermal burn, you will see that the snake is in pain because of the way in which it holds itself, arching its body to try and prevent as much surface friction and pressure as possible, and its desire to move will also be grea tly reduced.
healing times. It is also said to be an antiinflammatory agent, wound cleanser and painkiller. The active form of this honey is even used routinely in the NHS now, in the treatment of burns and ulcers. I think that vets could take greater note of active manuka honey, as it has proved to be completely safe for use on reptile patients. Many antibiotics that have never been scientifically tested on reptiles continue to be used instead though, in spite of a much greater risk of serious side-effects with this type of treatment.
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Feature – Christian’s clinic What I do
Burns are often on the underside of the body, where the snake curled around or lay on a hot object.
The healing process at work.
All photos on this page by the author and the main photo opposite
I use newspaper as the substrate in the snake’s treatment quarters, as this is easy to keep clean, and provide nothing else other than a hide. Every 2-3 days, I offer the snake a drink of water, but do not leave a drinking bowl in the vivarium. Bacteria will otherwise multiply rapidly in this warm water, threatening its health. From the outset, it is important not to be tempted to pull off any scabby scales or those which have not been shed. This will cause more harm than good. I also keep the humidity rather low to minimise the risk of infection but this does not make sloughing issues inevitable. Once every two days, I simply place the animal into a moist pillow case for just an hour. This will help the skin to absorb enough moisture to create the natural oils needed for shedding, without placing the snake’s overall health at risk. In terms of treating the burn, I start with povodine iodine, which is the ingredient in Vetark’s Tamodine Wound Cleanser. I dilute this with water, so as to create a solution comprised of 5 parts of povodine iodine : 15 parts of water. Then I use kitchen roll to paint this over the burnt areas of the snake’s skin, as a way of helping to prevent or treat any infections. After allowing 15 minutes for this to dry, I then spread either the 1:1 Savlon to aloe vera solution or Flamazine® over the area, rubbing this into the skin very gently until it has disappeared. Finally, I dissolve a tablespoon of honey in about 100ml of warm water, although more is sometimes necessary, so that it spreads easily over the skin. Then once again, I rub this in carefully. It will cause the snake’s body to have a sticky residue for 24 hours or more, but generally this goes away with no issues, and this is better than having to wipe it off very carefully. I continue this treatment routine daily until the tissue heals. The reason that this method works so well is down to the honey in my opinion. Manuka honey rebuilds damaged skin cells while increasing the strength, resistance and elasticity of the scales and tissue. There is normally a very fast improvement in the appearance of the burns. They will change from a very dark black colouration to a discoloured brown, then to pink tissue, before finally one of two things will happen. In the case of more minor burns, so it is likely that the damaged area will revert to its original appearance, or otherwise, it will heal to form scar tissue. This will have a white, waxy appearance and is likely to be a cause of difficulty when the snake sloughs, so that it will require help at this stage, although otherwise, it will be quite healthy. The first slough after the burn will smell of pure ammonia, and will look rather like a sock filled with pus and fluid. The injury becomes less apparent over subsequent sloughs, but it is interesting to see how the wound looks on the old skin, as many belly scales actually retain the sacs of pus. That’s pretty much all there is to it. The methodology is actually rather short and simple, which I always find is best! It has evolved out of working with vets, but clearly if you are concerned about your snake, then do seek rapid veterinary advice, preferably from a reptile specialist. ■
Shed skin after a burn occurred, with the signs of injury clearly apparent.
June 2011 41
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OUT OF AFRICA:
Baboon
spiders
Baboon spiders are members of the Harpactirinae, a subfamily of tarantulas found in Africa, and represent a group which is becoming increasing popular with arachnid enthusiasts today. Here Paul Donovan provides new, first-hand insights into their natural behaviour and suggests how this should influence the way in which they are kept and bred.
B
aboon spiders are mygalomorph or so-called ‘primitive’ spiders, characterised by having large, viper-like fangs which are hinged. This means that when the spider strikes, it does so with a forward and downward motion. When not in use, these fangs lie flat beneath the mouth. These spiders also have two pairs of booklungs. They are heavily-built with small eyes set in a cluster towards the front of the carapace. In comparison, so-called ‘advanced’ spiders have fangs which articulate sideways, and a single pair of book-lungs.
Survival underground
Interestingly, baboon spiders can remain underground for weeks, if not months on end. The burrows are often very deep, with some species being found at a depth of almost 1m (3ft). It is significantly cooler here than at the surface, and in many
parts of their range, such as Zimbabwe and Botswana, baboon spiders will remain underground throughout the oppressively hot, dry summer months, and can even ‘sitout’ bush fires safely in such surroundings. Last year in Botswana, we suffered a devastating bush fire in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, and a lot of animals succumbed, including zebras and a number of elephants. But in the aftermath of this catastrophe, it was interesting to go poking about and actually haul a baboon spider from a burrow in this charred landscape. Certainly from my own experience, I have found more individuals during the cooler winter months than in the searingly hot summer period. Nevertheless, the egg cases of many baboon spider species actually hatch at the onset of
summer. This has given rise to the belief that the young spiderlings are intolerant of cooler, humid winter conditions, which appears to be the opposite with adults.
Typical baboon spider burrow entrance lined with silk and concealed amongst the grass. Courtesy of the author.
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Feature – Baboon spiders Size matters The accolade for the largest African baboon spider used to belong to an East African species called the king baboon Citharischius crawshayi which has a body length approaching 8cm (3.1cm). This has now been surpassed by the slightly larger West African (upper Niger) species Hysterocrates hercules with a body length of 9cm (3.5in). Although not as large as the South American goliath birdeater (Theraphosa blondi), H. hercules is still an impressive spider, and centimetres count! All baboon spiders are terrestrial by nature, often being found in silk-lined burrows which have no form of ‘trapdoor’ lid. Others occur in shallow depressions beneath fallen logs, and rocks, while some prefer natural crevices. As a general rule, males are more mobile than females and only construct a temporary burrow in which to spend the night. Females
will create a permanent burrow in which to live and remain nearby, even when hunting. In some ways, females could almost be regarded as ‘ambush’ hunters, as they will spring from the burrow when their lines of silk are tripped.
Finding them
In Botswana, we have a number of impressively-sized baboon spiders, and for the past four years since I have been living here, I have had the good fortune of being able to observe them closely in their natural environment. All my friends back home in the UK envy me as they seem to think such invertebrates are crawling around everywhere. Well, I’ll let you into a secret……they’re not! Finding these spiders can be frustratingly difficult. Many an hour I have spend stooped over and lifting what I hope is going to be ‘the rock with a big one lurking beneath‘, only to find nothing. I then spend the rest of the day feeling like a 90 year old with a bad back. The only solution is to begin looking for their burrows elsewhere. A good starting point is amongst grass thickets, where a circular, fresh-looking hole may be spotted, perhaps lined with a mat of unsullied silk. Not all baboon spider burrows have this silken mat outside though, and they can often resemble a rodent burrow with a slightly raised edge. This is the sort of burrow likely to have an arachnid tenant. The trick then is to extract it from its home. Some people may dig them out, but this is too much like hard work for me, and more significantly, it risks killing the spider. I prefer to pick a lengthy piece of grass or bendy twig, and gently poke it in the spider’s hole while trying not to tangle it in the silk. You can feel if there is a spider inside because it will bite the object. If you are lucky, you can haul the occupant out while it is still attached to it. But you usually only have a couple of attempts, because after this, the spider will become wise to the trick, although this same technique also works well to extract scorpions from their burrows. Baboon spiders are nocturnal, naturally emerging from their daytime retreats after dark. They actively hunt nocturnal insects, but they will also explore burrows, and if an
Horned baboon spider. Courtesy of the author.
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Possibly a small female lesser baboon spider is shown here beneath a rock. Note the recently shed skin. Courtesy of the author.
Many such reports â&#x20AC;&#x153;stem from captive observations, and then it is assumed to be common practice in the wild, which is certainly not always the case.
â&#x20AC;?
individual discovers a family of mice, it will prey on them. They are quite formidable hunters, and I have even seen them take on large centipedes which are fearsome hunters in their own right; sometimes though, the hunter becomes the hunted in such cases. I have also seen them feed on small olive toads (Bufo species), although I am not sure whether this is common practice or indeed, if the toxic skin secretions of these amphibians have any effect on them.
Botswanan species
One of the most interesting baboon spiders in Botswana is the horned baboon spider (Ceratogyrus bechuanicus). This species can be recognised by the presence of a rearfacing foveal horn. Females reach a length of 5-7cm (2-2.75in), with males slightly smaller. It is a robust, heavily-built spider whose body is a mottled chestnut-brown with darker markings. They live in a silk-lined burrow or shallow silk-lined depression beneath a log or rock. The male builds a temporary retreat as he goes in search of food or a prospective mate, while the female establishes a permanent retreat. It is interesting that when unearthed, the spider does not attempt to escape but pulls its legs tightly into its body, to try and make itself look as small and inconspicuous as possible. If harassed, however, it takes on a different personality and becomes extremely aggressive. An individual can be so belligerent that as it rears up to bite, it can even fall over on to its back. Another species which I have found is the lesser baboon spider (Harpactirella lightfooti). It is a smaller species, as its name suggests, which resides in a silk-lined burrow beneath a rock or fallen log. It demands particular respect, as its venom is the most potent of all the baboon spiders, and a bite may require the administration of anti-venom.
Caring for baboon spiders
This group of arachnids is now being more widely-kept, and they are relatively easy to cater for, as well as breed. Indeed, many are now captive-bred, though some larger, older individuals may have been wild-caught. This is significant because a fully-grown female removed from a mature burrow will not be able to dig another one. As a result, such individuals will spin a thick mat of silk attached to surrounding anchor points, and will then take up residence here in the corner of the web. Baboon spiders are not particularly mobile spiders and so do not require a large amount of space. I would advocate, as a general rule, to provide them with an enclosure which is approximately four or five times bigger than their legspan. Depending on the species, the substrate can be a sand/
Below: Close-up of the foveal horn of a horned baboon spider. Courtesy of the author.
Male baboon spiders are more mobile than females. Courtesy of the author.
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Feature – Baboon spiders
Fact and reality The belief that female arachnids (and mantids) always eat the males does not hold true. In the wild, it is beneficial for the male to mate with as many females as he can, so as to expand his gene pool. If he mates with a female who then eats him, and is in turn eaten herself, his bloodline dies out, which is counterproductive. Many such reports stem from captive observations, and then it is assumed to be common practice in the wild too, which is certainly not always the case. Since I’ve lived in Africa, and have been able to study commonly-kept species in their natural habitat, I have witnessed their behaviour patterns myself. These often contradict husbandry books which are written about vivarium specimens rather than being based on field observations. If you give the male baboon spider more space when introducing him to the female, the likelihood is that he will survive.
peat mix or better still, vermiculite. This is an inorganic substance which holds water and allows the humidity to be adjusted, depending on the spider’s needs. It is also resilient to the build-up of mould which is detrimental to the health of these arachnids. Add a piece of cork bark or a cave made from a few stones, and a water dish, and that will be the spider’s basic requirements met. Only provide a shallow water dish with damp tissue or a sponge inside, as in a large bowl, these spiders could drown. A small heat mat under thermostatic control at one end of the cage will provide gentle warmth. Do not cover the entire floor space as then the spider will not be able to thermoregulate. Aim for a daytime temperature of between 23-26oC (73-79oF), falling back by a couple of degrees Celsius at night. Finally, add a ventilated cover over the vivarium if necessary. I have never had any difficulties when it comes to feeding baboon spiders. Most commercially-available insect livefoods will be taken, such as gut-loaded crickets or locusts, and some of the larger species will also take dead pinkies and rat pups.
Breeding baboon spiders
Baboon spiders generally mature slowly, and can take upwards of eight years to reach sexual maturity. In some ways, that is a good thing, because you know that if you provide them with the correct conditions, then they will be with you for a long time. In fact, you can easily double that timespan, in terms of life expectancy, as some of the larger species have been reported to live for around 25 years. Males have a shorter lifespan than females though, and can usually be easily identified by their smaller abdomens. Many species of baboon spiders have been bred in captivity and courtship generally follows that of tarantulas. After his final moult, the male develops tibial spurs, and goes in search of a receptive female. To advertise his readiness to mate and secure a female of the same species, he will ‘tap’ the floor in rapid succession with his front legs. Once a female is found, he then has to hook her fangs in his tibial
spurs, introduce his palps containing the sperm into her epigyne (genital opening), and then make his escape. In the wild, many males are nimble enough to escape the female to mate again, but when confined, if you do not remove him quickly enough, your male will succumb to the female’s aggression, being sacrificed in the name of procreation.
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Feature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Baboon spiders
African baboon spiders come close to rivaling the tarantulas, their South American cousins, in terms of their size.
After mating, the female will store the sperm in her spermathacea until it is required for egg fertilisation. During the transfer, the male may jerk the female forwards which aids in discharging the sperm from the palps. When an egg sac is laid, remove it and incubate it at a temperature of 26oC (79oF). As with chicken eggs, rotate the egg sac several times a day. Female baboon spiders have the ability to store sperm, and can lay several egg sacs over a lengthy period of time from a single mating - so be warned! Depending on the species, several hundred spiderlings could emerge. Rearing each one individually would be a laborious and time-consuming task. Therefore, I recommend taking several from the group to rear by themselves, and leave the rest together. That way, the stronger will predate upon the weaker (which happens in the wild) and you will only be left with the healthy ones, rather than feeding individuals which are going to die anyway.
A cautionary note
Most, if not all baboon spiders have a belligerent temperament, and can inflict painful bites, thanks in part to their large needle-like fangs. They are also fastmoving. Last year I found a really large
baboon spider beneath a rock, and as I was photographing it, I flicked a piece of grass out of the way. Just as I did that, the spider whipped around and sunk both fangs in my finger, and hung on for dear life. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not sure if I was more surprised at how quickly she moved, or the fact that I had this huge hairy spider firmly anchored onto my finger and that it would not let go! Fortunately, as with most baboon spiders, the actual bite is often worse than the venom, which, in most cases, has few sideeffects on humans. However, one should always treat these spiders with respect, as we all react differently to venom, and what for one person may be inconsequential could easily be fatal for another. Certainly, an allergic reaction is more than possible. If you suffer the trauma of a bite, apply antihistamine to the puncture wounds, take an analgesic such as aspirin or paracetamol for the pain, and seek medical advice. Apart from their belligerent temperament though, baboon spiders make interesting vivarium subjects, being very easy to look after and quite readily
persuaded to breed plus they should also prove to be long-lived. What more could you want from an invertebrate? â&#x2013;
The sharp needlelike fangs are very apparent in the case of this angry baboon spider.
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New discoveries about keeping
snail-eating
s e k a n s
Most snakes can be maintained quite successfully on a diet of rodents, but there are exceptions. Snail-eating snakes, also known as slug-eating snakes, fall within this category, but they are rarely available, and very little has been documented about them up until now, as Christian Castille explains.
T
hese particular snakes are found both in the New World, and also in southern Asia, where approximately 16 species of these colubrids are recognised, forming the subfamily Pareinae. Their anatomy helps to define them, with long, slender teeth present in their mouths, but their classification is not straightforward, partly because not all snail-eaters actually feed exclusively on gastropods, nor are they all arboreal in their habits. The core members of this complex are the members of the genera Aplopeltura, Pareas and Dipsas. I personally would like to add Duberria and Sibon into this group, but systematic reviews may not agree. Nevertheless, all of these snakes are extremely rarely available at present, and their habits, including their behaviour in the wild, are poorly understood. I hope this article can change some of that, and introduce more people to this fascinating group of reptiles. They make a very interesting addition to any collection.
How my interest began
While this article is primarily about the keeping of Aplopeltura and Pareas species, it can be used as a guide for others. My fascination with them began when I saw them on a list sent to me by my contact Brandon. I have always had a huge interest in invertebrate-eating snakes, and from rough greens (Opheodrys aestivus) to ring-necked snakes (Diadophis punctatus), I have kept and bred many of them. I think it is interesting to take a step away from the normal rodent-eating snakes. It may not seem like a vast difference, but snakes that prey upon invertebrates act very differently to other snakes. On the other hand, their husbandry is much harder because of their different feeding habits, and this makes them an interesting challenge to keep. I originally hoped to acquire some Duberria lutrix from an African import years ago but they never arrived, so when I saw a couple of species on this south-east Asian import, I jumped at the chance of owning them.
I ordered two different species of Pareas - P. carinatus and P. vertebralis - and another called the blunt-headed snaileater (Aplopeltura boa). In total, around 40 animals arrived. All came in alive and seemed to be in great health. I placed them into enclosures that mimicked the environment which the exporter had described as their source of origin. I already had vast cultures of giant African land snails (Achatina fulica) and also had many British snails that I had bred myself. I separated the species into their respective genera, and divided them up into five per enclosure. From past experience, I knew that snakes that feed on invertebrates seem to be extremely communal and would often hunt together. I imaged that these gastropod-feeding snakes would therefore be no different. I kept them in a very similar way to vine snakes (Ahaetulla), which also originate from this part of the world. This meant little heat, a relatively small enclosure, plenty of moisture and very little direct
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Feature – Snail-eating snakes Pareas vertebralis. Photo courtesy Karim Daoues/ www.lafermetropicale.com
contact. I never really knew how much to feed them but as they were such slow movers and they would stalk their prey for hours before feeding, I felt that if I dropped a handful of snails in, then that would be fine. It also meant that if I saw signs of obesity then I knew I should cut back, and vice-versa. Healthwise, however, I would always recommend that snail-eating snakes are wormed, particularly when first acquired, as they can be prone to parasites acquired from their prey. I choose to use 0.02ml per 100g body weight of Drontal™ puppy wormer given orally, repeated 10 days later. All these snakes did extremely well for the first four months. Not a single one had died, and it seemed to be too good to be true. Unfortunately it was, because after I had kept them for five months, they began to die. Initially, I thought this was possibly because there were some elderly ones in the group, not knowing their ages at all. Over the course of the next four months though, I lost 31 in total.
Now whenever you take on a new species for which there is no recorded information, so you are taking a big gamble. After nine months, the only species I had left was the keeled snail-eater (Pareas carinatus). I kept going over things to find out what had gone wrong, when they had settled so well initially. It was really quite depressing, because I pride myself in being rather good at establishing imported wild reptiles, and normally have a high degree of success.
A remarkable discovery
Sometime later though, my brother alerted me to the fact that he had just seen babies in one of enclosures which I used for the snail-eating snakes. I thought he must have been mistaken, but I rushed to look, and to my surprise, he was correct. It seemed that the remaining adults had bred and buried their eggs in the damp substrate. I hadn’t noticed them but my mini ecosystem had provided just the right conditions for them to hatch out.
I transferred the hatchlings into another enclosure, and as they were so small, I decided to feed them at first on golden apple snails (Pomacea gigas) from one of my aquariums. These aquatic snails will leave water if you allow them to have dry land, which was exactly what I did. The young snakes were greedy feeders and had very healthy appetites. By my first anniversary of acquiring this species, I had lost all of my adults but all the hatchlings were thriving. I did not change the care of the youngsters and they continued to grow and grow, and were seemingly doing very well. The one thing that I had noticed with my group of wild-caught adults was that they rarely shed, and as a result they never grew, which was understandable for the fully-grown adults, but for the younger individuals, it was not what I had expected. The fact that these snakes were hunting much more quickly for their prey and growing was very positive. As these first-generation, captive-bred snake-eating snakes reached a year old, I June 2011 49
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Pareas carinatus. Photo courtesy Karim Daoues/ www.lafermetropicale.com
I feel it is important that â&#x20AC;&#x153; in order to protect a species, it is vital that we need to understand not just about its habitat but its prey and feeding habits.
â&#x20AC;?
reviewed the notes that I had kept about their development. I also compared them with other peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s experiences, based on the very limited information available through the Internet about caring for this group of snakes, and also from brief snippets of information that I was able to unearth in libraries.
I also attempted to research the type of snails that these snakes ate in the wild. This was difficult though, because they have such a wide distribution and there various genera as well. I did discover, however, that the Asian trampsnail (Bradybaena similaris) was part of the diet of Pareas species. Furthermore, these snails seem to feed
The key difference
I find that the best way to learn in this hobby is to allow the animals to teach you how they like to be kept. Sadly, the learning curve had come at a price in this case. My original wild-caught shared many things in common with their offspring, such as their environmental setup, which was identical. The only thing that separated them was the fact that their diets were different. Herein may have been the problem. My research backed this up, as everyone else I spoke to who had kept these snakes also stated that they would feed readily on virtually any type of snail but they always died after a few months. This caused me to dig deeper into the feeding habits of the snails themselves, to see if there were any clues there that could shed light on the mystery. It seems that the diet of apple snails is mainly microphagous - meaning that it consists essentially of small food particles of various types. In comparison, the diet of giant African land snails and British snails is made up of plant matter and fruit.
Ornamental forms of the apple snail, such as the golden, can be used.
mainly on vegetation that grew on rocks and trees, which in many ways was much more similar to that of the diet of my apple snails than to that of giant African land snails. I then found out about another genus of snails that Pareas may feed upon in the wild. These are Satsuma snails, whose diet appears to consist of rotten vegetation like
leaf litter. I must say that researching data on snails was much harder than I had imagined. In 2007 though, I did stumble across a very interesting read on Satsuma entitled Systematic revision of the arboreal snail Satsuma albida species complex (Mollusca: Camaenidae) with descriptions of 14 new species from Taiwan. Since I learnt all of this, I have experimented with other aquatic snails common in the pet trade and found out that while all of them are suitable for the snakes, apple snails seem to be the best. I simply cannot explain for certain as to why aquatic snails are better to use, but it seems to me to revolve around their diet. I believe proper scientific research is needed in this area, especially as Aplopeltura boa faces real risks of becoming endangered if deforestation continues to increase at the rate that it currently taking place within its range. I feel it is important that in order to protect a species, it is vital that we need to understand not just about its habitat but its prey and feeding habits.
A lesson learnt?
In the case of snail-eating snakes, setting up a suitable environment is not problematic and they are otherwise a straightforward (and interesting) group to keep. Since I reared those youngsters successfully, I then imported a group of ten specimens each of Pareas carinatus and Aplopeltura boa during the following year. I kept them in the same
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Feature – Snail-eating snakes way as before, but fed them on apple snails. These snakes did very well, continuing to grow and slough naturally on this diet. I believe that their lifespan is only around five years as the last survivor of my captive-bred ones past away two weeks ago, with the rest having again died within four months of each other. In common with other invertebrate-feeding snakes, it appears that their lifespans do tend to be rather short.
My set-up
I found members of both the Pareas and Aplopeltura genera have identical husbandry needs. They were housed in an enclosure measuring 61 x 61cm (2 x 2ft), with a purpose-built canopy made from hazelnut branches full of buds. This allowed for a much more tree-like set-up, without requiring too much height. In my experience, I have found that especially with rough green snakes, excessive space can stress them to the point of death. The buds on the branches retain moisture and then naturally release water droplets, acting as a water reservoir and dispenser in the snakes’ quarters, helping to maintain the humidity. The floor needs to be covered in a layer of coco fiber and moss mixed up together, to a depth of 5-7.5cm (2-3in). I never bother with a water bowl for many species which live in the canopy as it is always ignored. I do mist their enclosures every two days however, and the fact that there will be a water bowl containing the apple snails means that there is no need for a second one. You need to aim to keep the humidity at around 70%, which can be easier said than done. As long as the substrate is damp and
there are droplets of water in the enclosure for the snakes to drink however, then this will be fine. The temperature for these snakes is potentially a very debatable topic, as with many south-east Asian reptiles. I prefer to keep them relatively cool, aiming to maintain the temperature in their quarters below 24°C (75°F). I just have a heat mat placed on the back of their vivariums under thermostatic control, which will provide warmth on the rare occasions that the ambient temperature in the room drops below 21°C (70°F). I now keep both species together, although if I am honest, I cannot really remember the reason I tried to mix the species up. But I found that neither of them seemed to be at any risk of predation from each other. In fact, one of the interesting things that became very evident from studying these two species of snakes in these surroundings is that Pareas has vertical pupils which means its vision has developed for seeking prey at night, whereas Aplopeltura has round pupils, so as to facilitate daytime hunting. This was confirmed by their behaviour in vivarium surroundings as well. This may not seem to be very significant, until you consider the fact that both species have the same geographic distribution. This then becomes an evolutionary stroke of genius, because by avoiding direct competition for prey, so both genera can co-exist in the same area.
Aplopeltura boa laying. Photo courtesy Karim Daoues/ www.lafermetropicale.com
Breeding
These species are all egg-layers. They can breed from around two years old, or when their size is approximately 60cm (24in) long. Pareas grow to a smaller size overall, averaging around this length, and become much darker as they mature. Aplopeltura, however, can attain an impressive 90cm (36in), although around 80cm (32in) tends to be more typical. Provided that your husbandry is correct and you do have both genders, then breeding is pretty straightforward. Pareas lay around five eggs which are 1.25cm (0.5cm) in length, and have a bright, chalky white appearance. These are actually buried under the substrate. I believe Aplopeltura boa lays approximately the same amount of eggs, although embarrassingly, I have never discovered any eggs from them - only the
Aplopeltura boa. Photo courtesy Karim Daoues/ www.lafermetropicale.com
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Feature – Snail-eating snakes They may look rather similar, in terms of their profile, but the blunt-headed tree snake (I. cenchoa) shown here in Costa Rica is very different in its habits from the snail-eating snakes.
However there are many snakes which “ actually look very similar to Pareas, and yet - as shown by the case of treesnakes (Imantodes), their diet and entire lifestyle are very different.
”
young after they have hatched! My breeding advice is very straightforward. I simply leave the eggs in the enclosure, although if they have been laid out in the open, then I will bury them somewhere more practical. Otherwise, I leave them alone as I have found that the ones that I have moved elsewhere never seem to hatch out. No special conditioning seems necessary to get these snakes to breed, as they will do so readily on their own.
Unusual behaviour
rip a snail from its shell in anywhere from just 24 to 39 seconds, with a minimum number of 22 mandible movements. These findings tally up with those made on other snail-eating Dipsadinae snakes. There were differences though, in that Pareas did not hunt with its tongue, following the snail’s mucus trail, not did it constrict their shells.
Wider impacts
These findings reveal that that these slow-moving snakes are efficient hunters, which observe their prey carefully before launching a strike. Many malacologists
Another thing that I find interesting is that many different species across the world have very similar features to each other and thus prey on the same animals. This is often described as convergent evolution, with a typical example being seen in the case of emerald tree boas and green tree pythons. However there are many snakes which actually look very similar to Pareas, and yet - as shown by the case of treesnakes (Imantodes), their diet and entire lifestyle are very different. A similar selective pressure is probably at work here though, and it relates to the environment, which in this case is heavily entangled vegetation. Large heads and thin bodies seem to be the most effect design model in these surroundings. This helps to explain why such a diverse range of snakes, ranging from snail-eaters via vine snakes to cat snakes (Boiga) all have a similar appearance.
There is still much to learn about these fascinating snakes, in terms of their lifestyles and behaviour. Aplopeltura have been known to eat small lizards during certain times of the year in the wild, which is an interesting observation but begs the question why the change in diet? Could it be a means of topping up its calcium stores, as these snakes Learning more normally prise the snails out of their I believe that the only way you can shells, which are then discarded. become a better keeper is to learn Scientific studies to date have from and overcome the problems focused largely on Pareas. Masaki tesy of the author. Baby snail-eating snake. Photo cour that you face. It is vital that we Hoso discovered that Paraes iwasaki continue to increase our knowledge in had an average of 17.5 teeth in its (snail biologists) now believe that species this hobby and provided we can analyse left jaw and 24.9 present in its right jaw. of land snails which have a home range and adapt what we do in a sensible and This gives the snake a much better grasp corresponding to that of these snakes may mature way, then progress will occur. I for removing the snails from its shell to have shells which have evolved in such a hope these studies have given a much eat them. However Masaki’s investigations way as to protect them from falling prey better insight in the care and breeding revealed that while this enabled the snake to these reptiles, by spiraling to the left of this fascinating and highly-specialised to eat the food quickly, it means that snails’ rather than the right. If this is the case, it is group of snakes. If you are interested in shells which coil anti-clockwise were highly fascinating to see the complex interactions keeping them in the future yourself, or unlikely to become the snake’s dinner. which take place between predator and have any experiences with them that you In another interesting snapshot into their prey, with each trying to outsmart the other would like to share, then please contact feeding habits, Matthias Goetz observed and ensure their survival. me via the magazine. ■ that Pareas carinatus would completely 52 Practical Reptile Keeping
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Life is an adventure...
.
PlanetWildlife will be running a series of herpetological expedi=ons throughout 2011 and 2012 to various des=na=ons including: Western Ghats; Rajasthan; Gujurat, Thailand; Laos and Cambodia; Costa Rica; Ecuador; and Brazil. For further informa=on on these amazing opportuni=es contact Rowland Griffin, Global Expedi=ons Manager on
rowland@planetwildlife.com Tel: 0845 519 49 48
6. Planet Wildlife WP PRK June 2011 (20299).indd 2
Specialists in Wildlife Travel
12/04/2011 13:15
Destination:
Thailand
A PlanetWildlife Expedition
A Siamese crocodile.
There is a growing range of exciting herpetological expeditions that you can join, often heading into areas where travelling alone would be difficult, if not impossible. Another advantage of going with an experienced tour operator is that you will almost certainly see much more as well, especially in a relative short space of time. Adam Radovanovic, Reptile Curator of Birmingham Nature Centre, describes his latest herpetological excursion to Thailand, with group leaders Gerry Martin and Paul Greig Smith of PlanetWildlife. 54 Practical Reptile Keeping
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Feature – Thailand expedition
Day 1 As soon as our group stepped off the plane at Bangkok airport, we realised that we were going to be in for a treat. After a brief round of introductions, we breezed through customs and were met by Gerry and our guide, Ms. Nang from the Khao Yai National Park. We jumped into the waiting minibuses and were driven to our first destination. Khao Yai is the second largest National Park in Thailand, so we had high hopes of finding and photographing some of the amazing herpetofauna that can be found there. We were to spend two nights at our hotel, deep in the heart of the Park. When we arrived, we were able to relax for the afternoon by the pool. This allowed the group the chance to recover from the flight and to have an opportunity to bond before our first nocturnal herp hunt of the trip. After dark, we set out to explore around the hotel and its grounds. The vegetation here was lush and difficult to navigate through, so we kept to the main paths. After upturning some logs and rotting wood, we found a huge giant centipede (Scolopendra). As these are known to be venomous, we simply appreciated it from a distance and let the zoom of our cameras do all the work. Just as we were heading back to the hotel, Steve who is a veteran of these trips and a world-renowned expert on capturing vine snakes (Ahaetulla prasina), caught our first snake – unsurprisingly, a vine snake! It was almost turquoise in colour and when it felt threatened, it puffed itself up and exposed the black colouration between the scales. As we moved to take photos, it used its binocular vision to track us and when we approached too quickly, it gaped and revealed the interior of its mouth in a full defensive display. We then unexpectedly came across a slug-eating snake (Pareas margaritophorus). This is a poorly-known species that it is
About PlanetWildlife
A view of the stunning scenery within Khao Yai National Park.
difficult to identify with any confidence, and we had to resort to using guide books for this purpose once we had got back to the comfort of our hotel. Perhaps unsurprisingly, we ended the night with a few drinks as well, to celebrate our first successful encounter with Thailand’s herpetofauna.
Day 2 After an early breakfast, we travelled with Ms. Nang to the centre of the National Park. On our way we saw troops of pig-tailed macaques (Macaca nemestrina) and noted that the larger males were particularly inquisitive. It didn’t take long before we saw turtles from the bank of a lake, but identifying them was impossible as they submerged as soon as they caught a glimpse of us.
Western Ghats.
PlanetWildlife is a wildlife holiday operator and specialist. Its UK director, Paul Greig Smith is a very keen herpetophile and has been working in the travel industry for the last six years. During this time, he has developed a series of herpetological adventures to India and South East Asia in close collaboration with renowned Indian herpetologist Gerry Martin (founder of The Gerry Martin Project - http://www.gerrymartin.in/workshops.html). These trips have visited various exotic destinations including the Andaman Islands, Western Ghats and Arunachal Pradesh. They vary from being holidays to look for the legendary king cobra (Ophiophagus hannah) to serious scientific expeditions into the foothills of the Himalayas to conduct Rapid Herpetofaunal Assessments.
As we walked across a huge rope bridge, our guide pointed to a large object moving through the water some distance away. A large water monitor lizard (Varanus salvator) swam to the other side of the lake and walked sluggishly up the embankment to bask. The habitat surrounding us was dense with lush green vegetation, and festooned with vines that seemed to look purposefully like snakes, so as to catch you out! The neighbourhood frogs were remarkably loud as they called, and we had to cease talking due to the sheer volume of the cacophony. It was actually incredible to stand back and absorb the atmosphere. Various species of garden agamas (Calotes) were also observed basking in the forest as the sun started to break through the clouds. During the afternoon, we continued to explore and unearthed a large blind snake. This particular animal was very unusual as it was almost white in colour and had very faint red eyes. This could possibly have been an albino, which is always a rare genetic trait to see in a wild species. Ms. Nang then steered us down to a large lake where a surprise was waiting for us. To get there, we had to negotiate an extremely steep bank, grasping every tree on the way, but with the group working together, we succeeded in getting everyone down safely and quietly as instructed. Our guide then pointed to the edge of a grassy bank adjacent to us, and there, basking in the warm rays of the afternoon sun, was a Siamese crocodile (Crocodylus siamensis). These crocodiles are critically endangered and face extinction in the coming years if current conservation efforts are unsuccessful. Having the opportunity to observe one in the wild was incredible. Ms. Nang had only ever seen two individuals in June 2011 55
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The water dragon. Photo: Adam Radovanovic
The painted bronzeback tree snake with Adam. Photo:Gerry Martin
the National Park before .... so we felt very privileged. On our way back, we saw a Malabar giant squirrel (Ratufa) in a tree tucking into some fruit. Although obviously a mammal, I felt that I had to mention this amazing species since this particular individual was almost 1.2m (4ft) in length. Just a stone’s throw away from the squirrel was a magnificent water dragon (Physignathus cocincinus): an animal which I expect is familiar to most people reading this article. As we continued on, we heard a loud splash and observed another large male swimming away. It was fantastic to see these lizards in their native habitat.
pictus) and together, we managed to catch the reluctant reptile. After photographing it, we observed the speed and skill of this species when navigating its escape through long grass and trees.
Day 4 After a short flight and a boat ride, we arrived at the floating bungalows deep inside the Khao Sok National Park late in the evening. We spent three nights in an area known as the Cheow Lan Reservoir, staying in simple bungalows with basic amenities
but this was completely overridden by the fact that our experience here was incredible. We began talking to a student who was also staying at the facility. She had photos of mangrove snakes (Boiga dendrophila) and reticulated pythons (Broghammerus reticulatus). With excitement running high within the group, we decided to grab our torches and explore the vicinity. On this occasion however, the only specimens to be found were several species of house gecko (Hemidactylus) and a couple of tokay geckos (Gekko gecko).
Day 3 We were driven to the Heiw Sawat Waterfall (made famous in the film The Beach which starred Leonardo Di Caprio). Here, we had the opportunity to swim under the waterfall, take photos and explore. Lunch was cut short though, as we heard the haunting calls of lar gibbons (Hylobates lar), including a mother with her youngster clinging on to her back as they swung through the trees. Our time in Khao Yai ended with a trip to a vineyard. Just as we were talking to the manager, Gerry shouted “bronzeback!” when a snake made a dash in-between the feet of Gerry Martin and myself. It was a painted bronzeback tree snake (Dendrelaphis
The green cat snake. Photo: Adam Radovanovic
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Feature – Thailand expedition Khao Sok National Park. Photo: Gerry Martin.
Days 5- 6
Days 6-9
Over the next couple of days, we kayaked to several small islands in search of reptiles. Whilst quietly surveying the area from our kayaks, we again heard the classic sound of a lar gibbon. We could only see rustling in the trees coupled with falling branches and leaves at first. After quarter of an hour, we finally caught a glimpse of these enigmatic primates. Shortly after, a troop of dusky langurs (Trachypithecus obscures)) approached the bank before running off in to the bush. The Cheow Lan Reservoir is an area of the Khao Sok National Park that was flooded in the 1980s and the primates on these islands have become stranded. Although they have no natural predators, they may soon become locally extinct, as a result of inbreeding and hunting. We travelled to visit and explore the local caves of the National Park. Here, one group stayed in the area searching for reptiles, whilst the other group had an adventure exploring the network of caves. Many species were observed, including spiders, cave crickets, whip scorpions and a 2m (6.5m) reticulated python that was discovered about 10m (33ft) inside the caves.
Later the next day, we travelled to the island of Koh Ra, which lies within the Andaman Sea off the coast of southern Thailand. The ecolodge there is set amidst idyllic tropical
One of the bent-toed geckos that were seen. Photo: Adam Radovanovic
surroundings with its own private beach and log cabins. Within minutes of starting our first nocturnal search for reptiles, we came across a beautiful juvenile monocled cobra (Naja kaouthia).
We must have spooked the snake as we were walking along the path when it shot out in front of us. Gerry, an expert in the handling of venomous snakes, safely picked up the cobra and bagged it so we could photograph it in the morning. As we continued our hunt, we saw what looked like a flying squirrel leap from one tree and gently glide to another. On closer inspection of some good quality photos, we were able to identify it as a Malayan flying lemur variegates) This find was (Cynocephalus variegates). particularly exciting as the species had not been recorded in that area before. The next morning, while we were photographing the cobra, Nigel (a keen snake-keeper from the UK) said he had caught a green cat snake (Boiga cyanea) on his balcony and put it in a pillow case. We were stunned by this and rushed him off to collect it. When he returned and opened the pillow case, we were treated to a superb sight. The snake’s body was an amazing shade of emerald green that glistened in the sun. What was most striking about this specimen was its blue face with green labial scales. After we had taken photos of the snake, for which it posed perfectly, it was released at its point of capture. Over the next few days, we were able to explore much of the island. We searched trees and shrubs, through the leaf litter and wood piles and by doing this we came June 2011 57
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Feature – Thailand expedition across a record number of species. These included flying geckos (Ptychozoon kuhli), flat-tailed geckos (Cosymbotus platyurus), bent-toed geckos (Cyrtodactylus), many species of garden agamas (Calotes), a wolf snake (Lycodon capuchinus), a sunbeam snake (Xenopeltis unicolor), a flying dragon (Draco) plus a superb flying snake (Chrysopelea paradisii). If we had longer there, we might even have seen the elusive king cobra (Ophiophagus hannah), a known resident of the region. Koh Ra nevertheless proved to be a wonderful destination with plenty of wildlife to observe, particularly for those with an interest in herpetofauna.
Days 10 -12
given a guided tour and met with the Phuket was a chance for the group to relax researchers and keepers who informed us and reflect on the journey that we had about their work. undertaken over recent days. It was slightly The keepers care for the vast number strange being back in a hotel, after our time of animals in the collection, while the sleeping among the wildlife in the jungle. researchers and scientists extract venom for There were lots to see and do in Phuket, the production of antivenin, helping to save including king cobra shows. After dinner, thousands of lives in the process. They had some of us went to watch one of these many, mainly indigenous venomous species shows with the sole intention of asking the on display to the public, including the snake handlers about where to look for banded krait (Bungarus fasciatus), king cobra reptiles in Phuket. (Ophiophagus hannah), large-eyed pit viper During the show, the snake handlers were exaggerating the aggressive (or rather the defensive) nature of some species including the radiated ratsnake (Coelognathus radiata)) and the reticulated python by slapping them on the head and grabbing their tails. Some were even thrown to the floor. This was when Gerry Martin stepped in and picked up one of the ratsnakes and showed the crowd that with gentle handling, they will calm down and The juvenile do not feel threatened. monocled cobra. Photo: Adam This proved a point and also, Radovanovic to our amusement, it annoyed the handlers as it ruined their sensationalist spectacle! Unfortunately, their restricted English prevented us from communicating with them about the location of reptiles in Phuket. However, they did offer to show us some of their reptiles including emaciated king cobras, mangrove snakes with nose rub, and dehydrated monocled cobras. It was a sad existence (Cryptelytrops macrops) and the Equatorial for these amazing animals, and while it spitting cobra (Naja sumatrana) to name but is debatable whether this practice has a a few. negative effect on wild populations, it will Afterwards, we were transferred to our continue without any laws or regulations to hotel where we spent two nights. We were control it. free to explore the area at leisure, so one group perused the markets for souvenirs, while the other visited a little place called Lumpini Park. It was here that Gerry, Steve We arrived in Bangkok early in the morning. and I were looking for monitor lizard tracks. Paul Greig Smith (our group leader and Gerry spotted some on the side of the bank Director of Planet Wildlife) organised for and noticed some tail drag marks from large us all to be taken to the Queen Saovabha individuals. We continued walking close to Venom Research Institute. Here, we were the water’s edge and a few minutes later,
Days 12-14
A water monitor.
we found a large water monitor (V. salvator) swimming in the lake. We could hardly contain our excitement. We took some photos of the lizard and headed further in to the park, when Gerry shouted “flying snake!!” This species is quick when climbing trees, so quick that not only did Steve and I fail to spot it, but also Gerry failed catch it! Now the adrenaline was really rushing around my body and it kept me going for the rest of the hot afternoon. We continued walking and approached a large body of water when all of a sudden, we could see water monitors everywhere. Some of the adults were swimming while others were roaming around or basking, with the juveniles actively climbing trees. We counted over 40 individuals between 1-2m (3.2-6.5m) in length over the course of a couple of hours. One of the larger specimens had caught a catfish and dragged it up on to the bank to eat it. Watching this was one of the highlights of the trip for me and it was the perfect way to end a very exciting and rewarding expedition. ■
Further information PlanetWildlife have an exciting calendar of herpetological expeditions planned for this year to many destinations including the Western Ghats, southern India 29/05 – 08/06. This expedition forms part of Romulus Whitaker’s national snake bite survey (see page 69) and gives people the chance to contribute to groundbreaking scientific research in the company of India’s most renowned herpetologist. Other trips include another to the Western Ghats, 11/06 – 23/06 and Rajasthan, northern India 11/08 -21/08. For more details check out their website www.planetwildlife. com/signature-tours/herpetology or email: rowland@planetwildlife.com
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Find the solutions to these puzzles by following the clues, to discover which reptiles, amphibians or invertebrates are hidden within them. The answers can be found on p74.
All puzzles © Christine Ansell.
C o r n Puzzle r
HEART to HEART
TWO OF A KIND
Select eight letters - one from each star in clockwise sequence - to spell out the first in a familiar pair of words and then find the second from the letters that remain. They will not both necessarily start in the same place and we don’t tell you where to begin either of them!
★★★ ★ ★ ★★★ PO
TA
IR
RE
AVID
BEAN CHAP DROP
DUES
FAIR
FOAL
JOEY
LURE
PITY
REAP RUBY
SINS
STEP
Find five letters of the alphabet, each of which might be placed right at the heart of three different words in the grid above to form three longer words. Then rearrange all five added letters to find something reptilian. The E forming CHEAP, PIETY and STEEP will give you one of them.
TWISTER
SOLUTION Can you unscramble in six of theSTEEP; words below G: BEGAN, RUGBY, SIGNS; the E: letters CHEAP, PIETY. C: FOCAL, LUCRE. R and use them to fill in blanksAVOID, on eachDROOP. line of the grid to K: DUKES, FAKIR, JOKEY; O:the ABOUT, G produce the names of six reptiles from around the world. LAVA for example will give you GAVIAL on line 5. Which word remains unused?
C
A
TN
TO
SR
EI
TWOSOMES
Choose two consecutive letters in order from the three circles in each row to form a six-letter word in each corresponding row of boxes. We’ve given you a start with ANORAK, and a correct solution will reveal two connected words running down the ringed columns.
SOLUTION TERRAPIN and TORTOISE
SPIN
FALL TOWN
SIGN
NICK
MATE
BURN
FIZZ
HERD
VISA
ABUT
FANG GRIT
LEAN FORM RAKE COMA TRIP
IRON
A N O R
A K
G
A
R
T
T
H
V
I
C
H
A
L
G
A
ANON BOMA LAVA LOOM LUTE MANY PONY
G O D O K U
Fill the grid so that each row, each column and each of the nine inner squares contain all the following letters: W H I P S N A K E.
W
P
SOLUTION I 1 CAYMAN/MANY, 2 MOLOCH/LOOM, 3 TURTLE/LUTE, A S 4 PYTHON/PONY, K 5 GAVIAL/LAVA, 6 GOANNA/ANON. K Unused word: BOMA
S P K A H
N K H
W P
K I
S A W
A A
E
E
W H P K SOLUTION
Puzzle Page.indd 38
SOLUTION
K W N E I P H A S 13/04/2011 I P H S A W E N K
11:08
You & your
Reptiles
A giant tailless whip scorpion, from Peter. Famous for being featured in the Harry Potter story - The Goblets of Fire.
If you have a favourite photograph of one of your reptiles, amphibians or invertebrates which you’d like to see included in the magazine, then email us a high resolution digital image to prk.ed@kelsey.co.uk Please include details about the subject, confirm anyone in the picture is happy for it to be published and that you took it. Don’t forget to tell us where you’re from as well, because next month’s favourite picture, as judged by the Practical Reptile Keeping team, will win a Digital Terrarium Thermometer™ from ZooMed. Also, don’t worry if yours isn’t included this month. As there’s been a fabulous response, we’ve kept some photos back to feature in subsequent issues.
STAR PICTURE
A two month old sulcata tor toise called Roxy. From Matthew in Blackpool.
Andy in Plymouth sent this photo of his leopard gecko 62ca Practical Reptile Keeping lled Gary. P60-63 You & Your Reptiles New3.indd 60
Ruki giving Rolo a hug! Bearded dragons pho
tographed by Stef fi from Devon.
Frank Beck
13/04/2011 11:14
Marley the Chinese water dragon. Photographed by Jodee from Chard in Somerset.
Crested gecko Stewie. From Annija, in Scarborough, North Yorkshire.
Natala, the female bearded dragon. From Danielle in Bristol.
Munch, the veiled chameleon. Sent in by Oliver from Surbiton, Surrey.
Peter in Pittstone, Buckinghamshire, sent this photo of his Vietnamese mossy tree frog.
Snow and normal Kenyan sand boas called Hayley and Rex. From Bruce in Rotherham.
Mac snow leopard geckos, called Loki and Luna. From Lee in Canterbury, Kent.
From Veronica in Hemel Hempstead, Her tfordshire. Green by day ...
Blue by night! A male metallic horsehead (Proscopia scabra), which originates from French Guiana in South America.
m Frankie, a Rankinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dragon. Fro n. Becky and Aliso
P60-63 You & Your Reptiles New3.indd 61
skink. Eddie lizard, the blue-tongued rkshire. Yo rth No n, From Aiden in Skipto
ving tadpoles Tricolor poison dart frog mo nfermline. Du in on its back . From Lynne
Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bu
June 2011 61
13/04/2011 11:14
Bearded dragon Lizzy, who live Cornwall with her owner Vicky. s in
Baby veiled chameleon Bob, at eight weeks old, taking a power nap! From Sarah in Harrogate.
Bernie, who is Lee’s reticulated python.
Del Boy, the ball python. From Adam in Bristol.
But tercup, an albino leopard gecko. From Emma in Plymouth.
Ar thur, the German giant bearded dragon, with Thomas. They live in Greenhithe, Kent.
Danielle’s three year old leopard gecko, Stevie, who looks as if he’s smiling!
Big Head Ben, the bearded dragon. From Jay in Norwich.
Bearded dragon Sooty. From Da in Redditch, Worcestershire. niel
Bearded dragons Bruce and 64 mo Practical Reptile Keeping Le nie. Fro m David in Hereford P60-63 You & Your Reptiles New3.indd 62
.
Sonny, a young creamsicle stripe cornsnake. From Sam in Cheshunt, Hertfordshire. 13/04/2011 11:15
Jackie from Bournemouth sent this photo of her leaf frog, called Desmond Tutu.
Keith sent this photo of Hoggie, his male western hognose.
Gizmo the crested gecko, from Vicky and Jay in Wirral, Merseyside.
Male mandarin ratsnake. From Rick in Wikingham, Surrey.
Louise the bearded dragon enjoys some spring sunshine. From Justine and Kerry in Gloucester.
Kerry’s 11 month old Tremper albino leopard gecko, called Mar tin. They live in Doncaster.
Matt’s photo of a common lizard in the wild.
Norman - a water monitor. From Keith in Essex.
Pepe, a skunk (white-lined) gecko. From Julie in Ellistown, Leicestershire.
. Sent Webster, the pink-toed tarantula in by Lauren from Essex.
sent this photo Ross from Sandymount, Dublin of his female bearded dragon.
white-throated Rio and Doris - a Bosc’s and ath, Dorset. monitor. From Lee in Weymou
James’s b
June 2011 63
P60-63 You & Your Reptiles New3.indd 63
13/04/2011 11:15
Can your reptiles recognise you?
Owners often report that their reptiles recognise them when they enter the room, reacting accordingly. However, what would happen if your reptile saw your photograph, or indeed a video of its prey instead of the real-world object? Would the outcome be the same? Questions such as these are studied in the field of science known as visual cognition, and some amazing results are emerging, as Julia Mueller, who is based at the University of Vienna, reports in this article.
T
here is clear evidence now to suggest that reptiles can distinguish between people visually. Certainly, in the case of those kept in vivarium surroundings, they are more likely to be able to recognise their owners by sight rather than olfaction (smell), given that they are housed behind well-sealed glass or acrylic doors. As far as prey is concerned, studies have now shown that ground skinks (Scincella lateralis) for example identify their prey largely through visual cognition. This area of research concentrates on the study of how animals perceive the world around themselves visually and how they interpret what they see. Much is known about the visual cognition of birds, and pigeons in particular, but very little research has so far been carried out to investigate this ability in reptiles. However, even what has been shown highlights just what a fascinating field this is, and, once again, proves the wide-ranging capabilities of many reptilian species.
Ground skinks recognise their prey by sight.
64 Practical Reptile Keeping
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Feature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Reptile recognition Shingleback skinks proved adaptable.
One study has found that shingleback skinks (Tiliqua rugosa) were able to visually distinguish between black and white stimuli, and between triangular and round shapes, but not between the colours red and green. This ability was tested by training the lizards to associate certain stimuli with their shelters. When the animals were later tested in new surroundings, they first went to the stimuli that were previously associated with shelter and searched for a hiding place. This ability is obviously very useful in the real world, as it enables the lizards to look for landmarks that are likely to be associated with shelter, even when they roam comparably unfamiliar territory in their large home ranges.
Photographic studies
For most people in the developed world, seeing and recognising 2D images is a normal, everyday activity.
We can, without a problem, recognize that a picture represents an object and do not end up confusing it with the object. Yet surprisingly, however, studies have shown that this ability is not as natural and obvious as one might think and that humans without any prior experience are often unable to recognise photographs of even their closest relatives. So what about reptiles? Can they recognise 2D images? Most reptiles are believed to have tetra-chromatic vision, being able to see ultra-violet light, while we ourselves are restricted to tri-chromatic vision. Photographs are produced of course specifically for human, and not reptile vision, and this adds an extra level of complexity to the question of whether reptiles can actually perceive photos as we do. Apart from the physiological issues surrounding vision though, understanding a photograph is a very complex task. Comprehending a 2D image involves different levels of understanding, from realising that the picture itself is an object, which is different from the object that is depicted within it, to recognising which reallife object is actually depicted.
Different outcomes
There are three possible solutions to solving experimental tasks that require discrimination between pictures.
Firstly, the reptile can show insight and fully understand that what it sees is a pictorial representation of a real-life object. Secondly, it can recognise the depicted object but confuses it with the real object. In this case, it would be able to distinguish between two different pictures, as it can see that different scenes are shown. However, it would be unable to separate a picture of an object and the object itself, with the picture being mistaken for the real object. Lastly, the animal can process pictures independently. That means it can see the difference between two pictures but does not realise that pictures represent any real-life object.
Video playbacks
One method to test what an animal really sees in a picture is to try and trigger its natural behaviour, by presenting 2D stimuli in the form of videos. A fair amount of research has been done using video displays of mating or fighting displays of lizards. Male lizards for example are shown a video of another male displaying to a female. The researchers then record the reaction of the lizard. If the animal was not able to recognise this 2D stimulus, it is unlikely to show any specific reaction to it. However, this is not what has been found. The male lizards, for example tree or jacky dragons (Amphibolurus muricatus), responded by showing very recognisable, highly situation specific displays. Depending on the opponent that was shown in the video, these could be threat or dismissive displays. ď ľ
June 2011 65
P64-66 Reptile Recogntion.indd 65
13/04/2011 11:18
Feature – Reptile recognition To test how much detail the animals actually saw in the videos, they were shown not only displays of males of their own species but also of other, closelyrelated species. The lizards did indeed react differently to the different species they saw. This suggests that they were able to retrieve a lot of valuable information and detail from the video, and certainly did not simply react to a vague impression.
Striking reaction
Photo courtesy benjamin444/http://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/File:Tree_Dragon_Close444.jpg
The male lizards, for “example tree or jacky
dragons (Amphibolurus muricatus), responded by showing very recognisable, highly situation specific displays.
Interestingly, it is not only display but also predatory behaviour that can be elicited by showing videos to reptiles. This has been demonstrated with mangrove saltmarsh snakes (Nerodia clarkia compressicauda) which reacted to a film of a prey animal just as they would to the real prey. They even attacked the prey on the video screen! Thus despite having no experience whatsoever with 2D video stimuli, these reptiles clearly recognised what was shown and confused it with the real-life object. A downside of using video footage is that it is difficult to determine which specific elements of the video exactly have triggered the reaction of the observer lizard. It is of course possible that a far simpler, artificial stimulus that is animated in the appropriate manner might well have elicited a similar reaction. The reaction to video stimuli therefore, while very interesting, might be the result of stereotypical movements rather than being solely based on visual recognition. To clarify this issue, it is also important to test reptiles on their perception of static 2D stimuli such as photographs. Knowledge about reptilian abilities to perceive photographic stimuli is also extremely important for future research.
find natural stimuli that can be so precisely controlled. Thus, pictures are a great help when designing research studies, but only if the animals in question can actually see what is presented in the static 2D image. At present, there has only been one study that has investigated this possibility in reptiles. This involved red-footed tortoises (Geochelone carbonaria) which were taught to choose between a real piece of fruit and a non-food object by walking to the food and eating it (not a difficult task!). Next however, the animals were shown two photographs - one of a piece of fruit itself, and the other portraying a similar-looking, non-edible object. When confronted by this challenge, the tortoises chose the picture of the food significantly more often than the photo of the non-food. This shows that they were not only able to distinguish between photographs but also to recognise which photograph presented the desired object.
What do they see?
What was difficult
In order to to test any deeper level, cognitive functions, it is very important to be aware of every aspect of the stimulus one presents and to be able to change small and specific aspects of a stimulus, so that reactions to such changes can be analysed carefully. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to
Emily the red-footed tortoise is presented with a stone on the left, and a mushroom on the right. Photo courtesy of the author.
”
Then to test whether the animals understood that the photograph was not the same as the real object, they were required to choose between a photograph of food and a real piece of food. Surprisingly perhaps, the tortoises had great difficulties doing this stage in the test, and only barely
succeeded in selecting the real food. This suggests that they might have perceived the photograph as being very similar to the real food object. Despite efforts to make the display table with the photograph smell of food, the result is unlikely to be as strong as the presence of real food. Interestingly, this also indicates that olfaction might play a secondary role while vision is predominant for the decision-making process in this case.
In conclusion
The reptiles tested so far have demonstrated strong visual abilities and are able to recognise 2D photographs and video footage. Interestingly, the animals seem to confuse the 2D stimuli with the real objects and apparently have difficulties in making a clear distinction between the representation and the real world. This is the case despite the differences between reptile and human vision, for which the 2D stimuli were originally designed. The very limited number of research studies conducted so far clearly show the great capabilities and adaptability of reptile cognitive performance, and emphasis the need for more in-depth studies investigating this fascinating class of animals. There is clearly much more to be learnt in this field of research. ■
Emily chooses to head off in the direction of the mushroom, and ignores the stone. Photo courtesy the author.
66 Practical Reptile Keeping
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Page 67.indd 67
12/04/2011 13:16
THE GHARIAL, THE KING COBRA AND THE INDIAN RAINFOREST:
an interview with Romulus Whitaker Founder of the Madras Snake Park, the Andaman and Nicobar Environment Trust (ANET) and the Madras Crocodile Bank Trust, award-winning herpetologist and conservationist Romulus Whitaker has a lifetime’s experience of India’s reptiles. In this exclusive interview for Practical Reptile Keeping, he talks to science writer Victoria Neblik about conserving snakes, saving snake-bite victims and his love of the gharial - the ‘Croc from Mars’ as he refers to it!
Q A
: What first sparked your interest in reptiles?
: Like any kid growing up in the country in northern New York state in my case - I was fascinated with anything that moved and snakes just seemed like the most interesting of all the creatures I came across. I think I was also attracted to the way people reacted to them. I felt they were misunderstood - maybe a bit like I felt about myself... My interest started then and was aided by a very encouraging (and unusual) single parent - my mother Doris Norden. Then destiny took me to India - the
land of snakes - at seven years old: there was no turning back once I arrived!
Q
: You do a lot of work with the gharial, which is now critically endangered. How did you get involved with that? Was it just your discovery that it was critically endangered that led you to become so involved with the species, or is it something about the gharial itself that especially appeals to you?
A
: You have just got to love the gharial or the ‘Croc from Mars’ as I often describe
it! They are so weird-looking, so special and specialized that everything is against them. They compete with fishermen for fish, they live only in clean rivers and they can’t walk overland if things get bad in the dry season, unlike other crocodiles. My pals at the Madras Snake Park and I carried out some of the first surveys in the early 1970s and discovered that there were probably less than two hundred in the wild. Despite a very successful rearing and release programme since then however, they are still down to under two hundred breeding adults in the wild -there’s something about that number!
68 Practical Reptile Keeping
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Regular – Interview Another thing that attracts me to the gharial is so little is known about its biology. It’s the natural lure of being an explorer, a discoverer of new biological/behavioural facts that keeps luring you into the world of a reptile like the gharial. The odds are stacked up very heavily against the gharial and it’s going to take a big ‘river revival’ in India to guarantee its survival, along with that of the Ganges river dolphin, the mahseer fish, smooth-coated otter, Indian skimmer and mugger crocodile, not to mention a number of endangered turtles and migratory waterbirds.
Russell’s viper with its fangs revealed.
Q
: The BBC screened a programme in their Natural World series recently, which followed your work on researching causes and the prevention of snake bites. Can you give me some more information about your involvement in this area please?
A
: Our work on collecting venom samples from snakes all over India is part of a new South Asia Snakebite Initiative, affiliated to the Global Snakebite Initiative of the World Health Organisation (WHO) and endorsed by the International Society of Toxinology and the newly-formed the National Society on Toxinology of India. Since it has been recently established by Toronto University’s Centre for Global Health Research that India has an astounding 50,000 deaths by snakebite each year (and perhaps hundreds of thousands of disabilities and injuries due to snakebites), various factors are being examined to see how best to mitigate this enormous health issue. Since we like snakes, it rather compels us to make things happen! Though four species of snakes are responsible for the majority of serious bites Russell’s viper, cobra, krait and saw-scaled viper in that order of importance - the problem is complicated by the fact that there are four species of cobra, eight species of krait, two subspecies of saw-scaled viper and tremendous variation in the venom of Russell’s viper from region to region in India. This means that the antivenom serum (AVS) made from venom collected by the Irula Tribal Venom Cooperative in Tamil Nadu (which I helped establish in 1978) may not be effective in neutralizing snake venom from other parts of the country. Our phase of the work is to get the venom samples to the
it has been recently established by “ Toronto University’s Centre for Global Health Research that India has an astounding 50,000 deaths by snakebite each year (and perhaps hundreds of thousands of disabilities and injuries due to snakebites)
”
toxinologists at the University of Mysore and Indian Institute of Science, Bangalore so that they can find the answers. This will hopefully help the antivenom producers improve their (currently not-so-good) product and save many thousands of lives.
Q
Milking a king cobra for its venom.
Neblik Interview.indd 69
: I have heard, certainly in Thailand, that the most deadly snakes are not always the most venomous, but often those whose behaviour puts them into closest contact or conflict with human daily activities. There the people most at risk are those who work in rice paddies, as well as children. Is there a similar situation in India or is some lesser known/feared snake actually responsible for many of the bites?
A
: Well, the “big four” venomous snakes in India are all immensely happy with human beings, since our agricultural practices and trash disposal habits have the effect of producing legions of rodents. All of these snakes eat rats and mice, besides other prey like lizards, frogs and toads and the densities of these prey items in human landscapes far exceed those found in natural forest and other wild habitats. There is certainly no little-known snake responsible for the big numbers of deaths and disabilities from snakebite, but as mentioned previously, we have only a rudimentary idea of just how ‘medically significant’ the other species of cobras and kraits are, and whether the existing antivenom is effective for their bites. June 2011 69
13/04/2011 12:14
Q
: You have also worked with the Irula tribe to get them involved in extracting snake venom for antivenom drugs...
A
: Well, tribals generally get the short end of the stick in India: displaced, marginalised, landless and totally looked down upon as ‘junglis’ - that’s even a Hindi curse word if you want to call someone stupid. Like many naturalists who have had the luck to go out with tribals into their forests however, you soon appreciate they know all the plants and habits of the animals. As hunter-gatherers, they have to know these things just the way you have to know bus numbers, the nearest supermarket or off-licence etc. - but it’s simpler for us, isn’t it? I learned one hell of a lot from the Irulas, and setting up the Irula Venom Cooperative was in a way to repay them for all this knowledge and good company on long snakehunting expeditions throughout the country back in the 1970s and ‘80s. As mentioned above, it was also a way to conserve snakes in a roundabout way. It’s ok for us to say we really like snakes but that doesn’t cut much ice with someone whose child is struggling for life after a cobra or krait bite. They need that antivenom and now!
visited Agumbe in 1972 and within “ 72I first hours, I found a pair of king cobras - magic! I’d been looking for this snake for many a year and here was the world capital of kings,
”
The impressive king cobra.
Q
: You are probably best-known as the founder of the Agumbe Rainforest Research Station in Karnakata. Please will you tell me a little about the wildlife there and what makes Agumbe’s herps especially interesting? Presumably, as a rainforest area, it has a particularly high species diversity?
A
: I first visited Agumbe in 1972 and within 72 hours, I found a pair of king cobras magic! I’d been looking for this snake for many a year and here was the world capital of kings, although I only confirmed this many years later. I’d always wanted to have a permanent field station in the rainforests of southern India’s western chain of hills called the Western Ghats. I even did my schooling in the hills there and it was always such a letdown coming out of the forest, so was determined to set up a base to ensure you never had to leave. When our mother died in 2004, she left a modest legacy for each of the four of us siblings and I put mine into my dream: buying ten acres of land in the middle of the wettest forest in South India, at Agumbe. Very little is known about this particular area, it’s not an easy place to work. There is a tremendous diversity of herps and our researchers are finding new range extensions and rediscovering species on a weekly basis. The total is over a hundred so far and counting. Our really big project is, of course, the king cobra telemetry project; we are finding out some incredible stuff, while following kings within sight, all day, day-afterday, for the past three years.
70 Practical Reptile Keeping
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13/04/2011 13:00
Regular – Interview
Q
: You were given the Rolex Award for Innovation in 2008 for your work “Creating a network of reservations in India”...
A
: I set up two field stations: Agumbe Rainforest Research Station, and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands Environmental Team. There are a number of other field stations in various stages of development and my goal is to make this a network. We have established sophisticated, data-logger based weather stations at three places, including the Pakke Tiger Reserve in remote Arunachal Pradesh and we are developing facilities for scientists and students to stay at these stations to carry out research, conservation and education activities.
knowing their habitats, plus bringing the local people on board to share the magic. Quite understandably, they generally don’t start out with the same enthusiasm we have for things that are scaley and bitey!
some sort of reply! If anyone is interested in joining one of our snake venom collection expeditions, just log onto www.gerrymartin. in/ where you will find the details of upcoming expeditions.
Q
Q
: If people reading this are interested in seeing or contributing to the work you do in Agumbe or elsewhere, what should they do?
Q
: In Central America, there is a strong drive to link areas of reservation and to create wildlife corridors. Are you adopting a similar strategy with your work in India or is it more a question of prioritising the most important parts of habitat wherever they can be preserved or of saving as many different kinds of habitat as possible?
A
: Right now the most important strategy for Indian reptiles in rainforests is to learn as much as we can about them, starting from the basics: their distribution and status. This way we can make informed strategies for the protection of the creatures we love so much,
A
: The websites give most of the information on how to help, how to volunteer and general information about all the work we are doing. If you have a particular question, email me at kingcobra@gmail. com. I may be late in replying or ask one of my colleagues to respond, but you will get
: What does the future hold for you? Are there any particular projects that you are looking forward to tackling?
A
: My future holds the same as my past, unless I get a frontal lobotomy or something similarly effective in stopping ideas flowing. I’m actually very pleased to be spending so much time at home these days, between snake-hunting and croc trips. I do want to see the gharial problem through and hope we can protect at least the Chambal River, which is the last main repository for this wonderful beast. I also am wedded to the snakebite initiative and really excited to see how the venom research results can be translated into more effective treatment for snakebite in India. For the Agumbe and Andaman Islands bases, I want to see them bursting with research and conservation activity: they’re buzzing already, so bursting is next! ■
Further info More details on the gharial and the Madras Crocodile Bank’s telemetry project can be found on the websites http://www.gharials.org and http:// www.madrascrocodilebank.org/ Further details of the Agumbe Rainforest Research Centre and information about donating or joining the volunteer programme can be found on the Agumbe website at http://www.agumberainforest.com Victoria Neblik’s website is www. victorianeblik.com
Razor-sharp teeth help the gharial to catch its prey. June 2011 71
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PRK Subs DPS.indd 3
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13/04/2011 12:42
NEXT MONTH
In the July issue ON SALE:
Meet the Peter Pan of the amphibian world
www.practicalreptilekeeping.co.uk
Axolotls are amongst the most fascinating of all amphibians and also one of the easiest to keep, being a great choice for beginners. Don’t miss Hannah Salisbury’s informative guide.
Published by: Kelsey Publishing Group, Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry’s Hill, Cudham, Kent TN16 3AG Telephone: + 44 (0)1959 541444 Fax: +44 (0)1959 541400 Editorial Editor | David Alderton Email: prk.ed@kelsey.co.uk Art/Design | Rob Terry Publisher | Stephen Curtis
Tuesday, May 31st
Advertising Advertisement Manager: David Lerpiniere Telephone: 01959 543507 Email: prk.adsales@kelsey.co.uk
Flying lizards
Advertising Sales Executive: Simon Dunn Telephone: 01959 543514 Email: prk.adsales@kelsey.co.uk
Often discussed, frequently sought-after, but littlestudied - until now. Don’t miss our unique guide to these fascinating Asiatic lizards, including how they are now being bred.
Advertising Production manager: Karen Ayress Telephone: 01959 543541 Email: adprod@kelsey.co.uk
Bismarck pythons
Out of Africa
Few snakes are more colourful than juvenile Bismarck pythons. Christian Castille discusses the Wbreeding of these snakes. P care and
Keep on rolling! The world of the dung beetle, explored by Paul Donovan, complete with advice on how to look after these distinctive invertebrates, in the absence of elephants.
I K E A Marginated tortoises S K I Dillon Prest explains S the techniques that K have allowed him S N P A to be successful in keeping and K A H W breeding this highly Out and about K species, A W H recognisable David C. Wareham provides insights into where which is the largest of to go to have the best chance of spotting reptiles P allE European A tortoises. W and similar wildlife at this time of year. P force last-minute changes.KIf this happens, *These are just some of the features planned for the next issue but circumstances outsideH our control may we will substitute items of equal or greater interest.
Answers:
Twister solution: 1 CAYMAN/MANY, 2 MOLOCH/ LOOM, 3 TURTLE/LUTE, 4 PYTHON/PONY, 5 GAVIAL/ LAVA, 6 GOANNA/ANON. Unused word: BOMA Two of a kind solution: TERRAPIN and TORTOISE
C o r n Puzzle r
Twosomes solution: PILLOW, IGNITE, BUZZER, SAFARI, ANORAK and MATRON The ringed twosome: IGUANA and LIZARD Heart to heart solution: G: BEGAN, RUGBY, SIGNS; E: CHEAP, PIETY. STEEP; C: FOCAL, LUCRE. RECAP; K: DUKES, FAKIR, JOKEY; O: ABOUT, AVOID, DROOP. GECKO
Practical Reptile Keeping and the Pet Advertising Advisory Group recommend that if you decide to buy a reptile or amphibian, you should:■ Research before you buy. Be sure you fully understand and appreciate the needs of the reptile or amphibian you are interested in, and that you can provide a suitable environment. ■ Seek advice from books, the internet and your local veterinary practice who may also be able to recommend a suitable expert for additional advice. ■ Ensure you know what facilities are
P74 Next month.indd 74
necessary to provide a suitable environment for the animal – e.g., vivarium, temperature, humidity, light quality etc.. ■ Ensure you buy from someone who specialises in the animal you are interested in. ■ Visit the animal you are intending to buy. ■ Check that the animal’s accommodation is clean, it is supplied with the appropriate food and water, and that special equipment for maintaining the animal’s environment (e.g., heat lamps or UV lights, etc) is working properly. ■ Ensure that all relevant paperwork is available for inspection when you visit.
Goduku solution
K I A H N P S E W
W P S A E I K N H
N H E W S K P A I
E S K N W A I H P
I A N K P H E W S
SOLUTION P W H E I S A K N
H E P S K W N I A
A N I P H E W S K
S K W I A N H P E
This could include any necessary permits such as CITES registration documents, Dangerous Wild Animals Licence or other documentation. ■ If any paperwork is unavailable and has to be sent on, obtain a written commitment as to when it will be delivered. ■ Ensure that the animal you are buying is healthy and free from signs of injury or disease. ■ Remember that some reptiles can grow very large and some species can live for 50 years or more. Veterinary care can be very expensive.
Subscriptions Laura Knowles: Telephone: 01959 543530 Email: prk.subs@kelsey.co.uk Save money by taking out a subscription to Practical Reptile Keeping. See offer on pages 72-73. DISTRIBUTION Problems getting your magazine in the shops? Please contact our distributors, Marketforce, on 0203 1483333, or better still, SUBSCRIBE; you know it makes sense! If you would like to sell Practical Reptile Keeping magazine, or help distribute it in your local area, please call Jerry on 01869 325 845 for more details. PRINTING William Gibbons & Sons Ltd, Willenhall, W Midlands CONTRIBUTORS Articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, that are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. DISCLAIMERS Kelsey Publishing Group © 2011. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden except with prior written permission from the publishers. None of the information in this publication is intended to substitute for professional individual veterinary advice. If you are concerned about the health of your pet, you should seek qualified veterinary advice without delay. The opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the writers and not those of the editor or Kelsey Publishing. The editor is not able to provide instant replies to correspondence or phone calls, and cannot guarantee a personal reply; email is treated in the same way as ordinary mail. We reserve the right to cut or edit letters for reasons of space or clarity. Letters not intended for publication should be clearly marked accordingly.
www.kelsey.co.uk
13/04/2011 12:44
Unleash your inner child Cactus Blossom Pink
S u n s h i n e Ye l l o w
Desert Plum
Rainforest Green
Rept Re ptili pt ilite ili te Br Brit ite it es ™
Reptilite™ Brites have all of the great benefits of our original Reptilite™, in new jaw dropping colors. An all natural calcium substrate; ideal for true chameleons or any tortoise, snake, lizard, arachnid, or insect that comes from an arid or semi arid environment. The naturally spherical grains won’t scratch your valuable animals inside or out! This low impact substrate also contains strontium and magnesium while being free of silica and phosphates. Though not intended as a food source or supplement, it is 100% edible and easily digestible. In fact, Reptilite™ is made of aragonite, the most soluble form of calcium carbonate available. Trusted by professional reptile breeders and hobbyists alike. Available in 5, 10, and 20 pound bags.
Blue Iguana Brand, a division of CaribSea, Inc. | Fort Pierce, FL USA | +1-772-461-1113 | www.caribsea.com | sales@caribsea.com
Carib Sea Inc PRK Mar 2011 issue (17352).indd 2
08/04/2011 16:58
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Zoo-Med PRK May 2011 issue (15726).indd 2
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08/04/2011 16:59