Lacquered Running Head:Streetwear LACQUERED STREETWEAR
Lacquered Streetwear Fall/Winter 2014 Mens Bridge Mckenna Holm FMRK 235 Professor Wendy Bendoni 05/06/14
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Table of Content Customer Profile
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Why is the Customer Ready for this Trend?
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Trend Introduction: Lacquered Streetwear
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Trend Analytic Tracking
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Concept Board
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Color
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Fabric
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Runway/Street Inspiration
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Art/Culture Heritage Inspiration
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Flat Sketches
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Details, Silhouettes, and Styles
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Conclusion
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References
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Powerpoint
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Customer Profile A. Target Customer: This male is between the ages of 23-30. He is a business man who is working in his profession of choice among CEO’s of large corporations typically in the entertainment industry. His work requires traveling to the biggest cities around the world. Due to traveling, he has been able to find the best quality, exclusive garments from independent brands around the world. This man is mature for his age, but still remains apart of the youth culture, where his beliefs, values, and mindset lay. Different from most Gen Y kids, this man does not conform to the “fast fashion”, trendy styles. He is conscious of current trends but does not follow them closely, for he cares to stay unique. Because money is not an issue, it is about the quality of the clothes not so much the quantity. But not to be confused, he is not a label lover and does not seek the biggest name brand clothes. He understands that labels such as Dior Homme or Jil Sander will have the best quality clothing for him, but he does not mind finding those brands off the sale rack. He typically incorporates a statement piece to his look, he is in touch with himself and he enjoys picking outfits based off his own eye. Being able to mix comfortable, street wear style clothes with a high end coat and athletic shoes can best describe this mans everyday look. He likes to have his clothes be subjects of business and everyday styles, always staying classic but fresh.
B. Cohort Group: My male customer fits the cohort group “Generation Y”, born between the 1980’s and the first half of the 1990’s. Gen Y kids are known to be sophisticated and technologically advanced, being the first generation to grow up with the fast pace technology. They do not believe everything they hear, especially when it comes to sales pitches. Their time
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allowed for a more optimistic group of individuals whom are in touch with their own views and beliefs or lack thereof. Members of Generation Y all suffered from possibly the second Great Depression, giving them less money to throw around as there was before the late 2000’s recession. In their earlier times, they may have been considered the most materialistic presented generation, but that was changed. Due to this drop in money, this generation had to mature with their purchase decisions. They buy necessary purchases. Because of the internet and hype of “fast fashion�, Gen Y is not brand loyal and they understand and are on top of the constant change in trends and styles. They care about the quality of the clothes. In this age, men are aware of trends and such now, but the stage they are in enables them to dress outside of the realm of what once before was just suits and their basics in their closet. Now they can go extra measures and make a statement that does reflect their lifestyle. They are not worried about compliments they will get or what celebrity they can mimic. Menswear has taken a huge shift now and is very much their own.
C. Shopping Habits: This customer is a traveler and has found a liking in finding independent brands from around the world. The clothing he is attracted to are simple but definitely are high quality, whether it is in the design or the fabric. The products he would purchase would be casual shirts, casual pants, athletic looking shoes, high quality coats, and mainly exclusives pieces. When traveling, he may stop in stores such as Dover Street Market in London, or American Rag when visiting the West Coast, and large department stores such as Bloomingdales or Bergdorf Goodman. Although he does not typically try to find clothes and prefers for the clothes to find him, he does online blogging and shopping due to his excessive time spent on the internet. To
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read up on new collections or what is going on the entertainment world he visits blogs such as hypebeast.com, complex.com, nylonguysmag.com, tres-bien.com, and one of the originators, acontinuouslean.com. Some brands that may reflect their style would be the more high end brands such as Jil Sander or Phillip Lim, to the more mid range brands such as Comme des Garcons, Nike or T by Alexander Wang. Additional Blogs:
well-spent.com contemporarystandard.com
Additional Brands:
Opening Ceremony Stampd LA Y-3
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Why is the Customer Ready for this Trend? Menswear for Fall 2014 is ready for this trend because it carries on the significant trends of Spring 2014, with the recognition of the cooler weather. The softer fabrics and longer, looser fits of spring seen in the Comme des Garcons or Givenchy collections, take a step over to fall. Among the fits are also the colors. In the Spring collections of Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton, deeper blues were being used, now for fall the blues are being toned down, and lightened up. Some specific fits for spring such as the Tunic and the Bermuda short that were long, boxy silhouettes, can now be incorporated into coats and other outerwear pieces for the fall and winter. The overall trend, mixing high-end outerwear pieces with street wear pieces, is being excepted mainly because the way Generation Y shops. Generation Y understands that there is no guarantee of income at any time, so while they are making purchases based off their high income now, they know that purchasing timeless pieces while still staying fashionable, is important.
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Trend Introduction: Lacquered Streetwear Lacquer is known to cover or be a top coat of something. In Lacquered Streetwear, covering a youthful, cool look with a high-end coat or outerwear piece, is essential. Lacquered streetwear is all about the statement piece of an outfit. The overall trend is about the basic but elegant silhouette, sharp cuts, and high quality fabrics, which all separate this tend from any other before. The silhouette is elongated, oversized and rectangular shaped. Although elegant, the pieces are not tailored to the body. Sharp cuts make the overcoat different from the casual under outfit. Materials such as stretch suiting, hairy wools, soft flannels and cottons, as well as monks cloth are used to rejuvenate this trend. The trend is about lacquer or layering. It is a mix of sophisticated and comfortable. A subtle statement, is what the wearer would aim for. The trend ties on the essence of minimalism, being that nothing more can be removed to improve the design. Layered, but not in the count, Lacquered Streetwear is layering different styles together. Purity, modesty, and uniqueness describe this trend for menswear greatly. Understand that it is not about the quantity of price, necks broken, or words spent on their look, but about the quality and self fulfillment it brings to the wearer. Greatly influenced by Zen philosophy, the trend ties in the concept of simplicity with a consideration for detail in, not only the materials, but for the space and placement coinciding with the consumer. Tying in the essence of natural light, sky, earth, and air, this trend signifies minimalism. Lacquered Streetwear is essentially emerging street style and high-end over products, achieving quality and simplicity.
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Trending Analytic Tracking - Editd.com discussed how the influence of street style wearers on luxury has grown and will continue to grow, thanks to Gen Y. This older Gen Y consumers are now becoming professionals and are mixing the street style with luxury brand or high quality clothing, as this trend would be. Generation Y is the greatest influence to the movement of street wear and now that they are becoming older with a greater income it is driving street wear brands to match their needs. - Of the top 10 trends for Fall 2014, listed on edited.com, oversized outerwear is number six on the list. It is all about volume in length for the upcoming season (Smith 2014). -The colors for Lacquered Streetwear fit right in with the Fall 2014 color wheel shown on editd.com. Dark blues of SS14 shift to lighter blues for fall’s outerwear. Editd.com (2014) also says that “Oatmeals, wheats, and soft grays” go well with the bright color palette for fall (Smith). Lacquered Streetwear incorporates all these colors in the trend, making it perfect for 2014’s Fall season. Contributor Known as @WallaceYolicia or @Wallaceblog, Yolicia is a fashion blogger whom promotes minimalistic fashion. She has more than 8.6 thousand followers on twitter and an 8.7 thousand impression by her own followers retweeting and exposing her posts further. Yolicia has an even larger following on Instagram, being 13 thousand. The promotion of minimalistic fashion shows that this movement is popular among the fashion world, based off her large following.
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http://tweetreach.com/reports/10494753
http://tweetreach.com/reports/10494753
http://tweetreach.com/reports/10494691
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Concept Board The Lacquered Streetwear concept board is fundamentally the mix of street wear and high quality clothing, while incorporating the ideas of minimalism. To start, the colors reflect natural light, sky, earth and air, using the sky and clouds as a perfect representation for the blues and grays used in the color palette for this trend. Floating among the clouds are a couple sketches of some basic designs expected to be used in design. The T-shirt and coat are both elongated and oversized in their silhouette. When picturing the target customer with an outfit that fits the Lacquered street wear trend, picture this, a long, pale blue coat placed on top of a fashionable street style fit for men. The trend gets influence from art, philosophy, fashion and everything in between. The section stating “Relativism” is geometric visual of one of the many movements in philosophy. Relativism is basically a state of open-mindedness and knowing that everything is open to interpretation. Undercoverism is a collection of clothes designed with a minimalist approach. The shirt in the midst of the geometric squares, as well as the bottom picture of the floor scraping sheer shirts are both minimalist takes with fashion and art. On the right side of the board is a square of two outfit influences along with three items that may be seen paired together to fit the look of Lacquered Streetwear. Names of major designers such as Raf Simons, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, and Comme des Garçons all inspire this trend in their designs and are placed sporadically throughout the board. Besides the spartan colors of white, black, blue, and gray, the colors of the popular fall blooming flower, the Sedum, are harmonized in the mix with pale blush and plum colors. The graph patterning, marble impressions, and holographic designs all incorporate the colors and feel of Lacquered Streetwear. Finalizing the concept board, to address the greatest influence that every detail derives from, it says, “…It is highly inspired from the Japanese Traditional Design and the concept of Zen Philosophy.”
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Color Fall 2014 is showing a popularity in the use of a bright color palette. Blues especially, are being used in a bright and icy way for outerwear. In contrast to the bright colors, soft tans and cool grays are making in appearance. Other than what is popular for fall, incorporating the blues, grays, and tans go hand in hand with the idea of minimalism that is displayed throughout this trend. Natural light, sky, earth, and air are the main influencers of minimalism. The openness of the colors are easily digested and give a sense of purity and modesty. To add to the airy palette, the colors of the fall flower, Sedum, give contrast to the blue and give more of a fall feel. The taupe and beige colors are offsets of white, in which reflect light and are also neutral and able to go with anything. Blue is peaceful, tranquil, and stable. These blues used are the colors of the sky, which is airy, and reflects the idea of space. The colors of the Sedum, being a mix between a pale rose color to an eggplant color, are offsprings of purple or magenta. Purple is the color of balance. Purple is said to be the color for imagination and dreamers which corresponds with the wearer of this trend, being that they are independent with their thoughts and life. Magenta is uplifting and powerful. In light of the sky blues, Gray is calming and, when paired with soft colors, it tends to make these colors illuminate. Black is bold and allows for other colors to stand out as well. Black is mysterious and vulnerable, much like the philosophy ideas that the trend is influenced by.
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Fabric The fabric selection ranges from the thick, hairy wools to crisp suiting. Fall 2014 is making a statement with fur, but a new interpretation of the hairy wool and tweed fabrics makes the pieces look unique and more masculine. A soft jersey material reassures the light, airy feel of Lacquered Streetwear, easily used for lining coats or the more casual pieces. The sky blue, cozy flannel material is also light and contrasts well with the tan and gray colors. Flannel is popular especially around the fall and winter time. This specific flannel is a diluted interpretation of the wools, where wools make a statement, the flannel is more subdued. Because the target customer is a professional, incorporating the suiting material into pieces makes the look professional as well. Being able to mix high end suiting with casual, comfort materials is important in this trend. Monks cloth is a loose, over and under woven material that is a 100% cotton. The monks cloth weave can be easily seen and is similar to the idea of minimalism, as incorporated throughout this trend, because it defines the point of “Less is More� with it’s basic intentions. All the materials fit the color palette and overall theme of Lacquered Streetwear.
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Street/Runway Inspiration Lacquered Streetwear is greatly influenced by timeless designers such as Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, as well as the growth in street wear that is popular among Generation Y and the youth culture. For the runway inspiration, Helmut Lang, Yojhi Yamamoto, Jil Sander, and Raf Simons are the greatest influencers. Helmut Lang for their sharp lines and cuts, high quality materials and overall garment, and the importance of being basic but elegant in the silhouettes. Yojhi Yamamoto influences the silhouettes of this trend, his designs are known to be oversized and elongated. Jil Sander is all about the saying “Less is More”, and is known to be a minimalist designer. The idea, in this trend, of being a young professional and mixing the professional look with the look that is popular among the younger generations is greatly influenced by Raf Simons own influence of the youth culture. Japanese Minimalist fashion of the 1980’s and 90’s also influenced the design ideas and silhouettes of the trend. The rise in street wear has populated among men especially. Street wear is casual but the quality and detail of street wear has risen. Both street and designer fashion influence Lacquered Streetwear equally.
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Street/Runway Inspiration
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Art/Culture Heritage Inspiration Art is a large influencer of Lacquered Streetwear. The Minimalist art and architecture movement, Mid Century Modern made Contemporary art, and Zen philosophy all impact this trend. Minimalism has to do with detail of space, materials and placement. Essentially, minimalism is achieving quality and simplicity, where nothing else can be removed to improve the design. Mid Century Modern made Contemporary art was inclusively a combination of art forms, but the outcome was organic in design. Zen philosophy’s concept of simplicity signifies this trend perfectly. It is not just the beauty of something that is simple but the perception of looking into the nature of something and recognizing the inner qualities of materials and objects for the essence. Principles, beliefs, and truth is not absolute, what is sketched in our minds to be the proper way of something, is not in fact the proper way. Gray area is allowed and the ability to leave something open for interpretation, for something to be simple but interpreted into something of their own. This idea fits perfectly into this trend, by crossing the lines between luxe and street.
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Flat Sketches
Length
Pockets and Closer
Length and Coat style
Elongated Hem
Coat Style
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Details, Silhouettes, and Styles The Rectangle Silhouette is what is going to be most commonly used throughout this trend. Making no emphasis on any part of the body.
Elongated hemlines
An example of the rectangle silhouette. Boxy, straight.
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Details, Silhouettes, and Styles
Detail: No closers or fastens for coats. -Importance of no closers for coats is to allow coat to open and expose the outfit underneath.
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Conclusion Lacquered Streetwear will be the coolest look for men in Fall 2014. The trend is a perfect mix of high fashion designer and art movement inspiration. Incorporating the basic principles of minimalism and Zen philosophy, essentially seeing the importance in quality and simplicity. This trend reflects the emotions of purity and modesty within the color palette, designs, and overall feel. Elongated, oversized silhouettes, sharp lines, and bold but effortless ensemble makes for a cool look for men. Lacquered Streetwear is for the young professional who seeks quality in his clothing. Although conscious of current trends, he has his own unique way of staying up to date with the latest fashions. Mixing comfortable, street wear style clothes with a high end coat and athletic shoes would best describe the look of the man to fit Lacquered Streetwear. He likes to have his clothes be subjects of business and everyday styles, always staying classic but fresh. This light, airy trend will stand out because it is not the typical dark colors of fall, instead it is soft and subtle with sky blue, pale rose, and light neutral colors. With the growth in street wear among men, this trend will enlighten the movement and make it wearable for these young professionals. The important part of the concept is this, it is not about excessive layering to achieve the lacquered look, but the statement piece, being a high quality coat, placed on top of a casual outfit, that adds the most value to the gear. Lacquered Streetwear is simple, elegant, light, and of the best quality, a great way to go into 2014’s Fall season.
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References -Popova, M. (n.d.). Major Movements in Philosophy as Minimalist Geometric Graphics | Brain Pickings. Retrieved from http://www.brainpickings.org/index.php/2011/08/30/philographics/
-Vogue (n.d.). Yohji Yamamoto - Voguepedia. Retrieved from http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/ Yohji_Yamamoto -NY Magazine (n.d.). Yohji Yamamoto - Designer Fashion Label. Retrieved from http:// nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/yohji-yamamoto/ -O’Flaherty, M. C. (2011, January 7). Japanese minimalism set to reshape fashion once again | Fashion | The Guardian. Retrieved from http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/jan/07/ japanese-minimalism-fashion-design -Minimalism - Dematerialization. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.boundless.com/art-history/ global-art-since-1950/dematerialization/minimalism/ -Hapsical: Raf Simons: 15 Years of Brilliance. (2010, April 1). Retrieved from http:// hapsical.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/raf-simons-15-years-of-brilliance.html -Retrieved from http://www.experian.co.uk/assets/business-strategies/brochures/ fashion_segments_handbook_males_small[1].pdf -HARRIS, J., & DELEON, J. (2013, January 29). Contemporary Standard — The 25 Best Men's Style Blogs Right Now | Complex. Retrieved from http://www.complex.com/style/2013/01/ the-25-best-mens-style-blogs-right-now/contemporary-standard -Suddath, C. (2014, April 25). Millennials Are Careful, Frugal Shoppers Who Buy for the LongTerm - Businessweek. Retrieved from http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2014-04-25/ millennials-are-careful-frugal-shoppers-who-buy-for-the-long-term
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-Smith, K. (2013, June 27). EDITD research the streetwear trend flying out of retail stores | EDITD. Retrieved from http://editd.com/blog/2013/06/urban-trend/ -Smith, K. (2014, March 21). EDITD’s color wheel reveals top global color trends for Fall 2014 | EDITD. Retrieved from http://editd.com/blog/2014/03/editds-color-wheel-reveals-top-globalcolor-trends-for-fall-2014/ -Smith, K. (2014, February 24). Data decides: Fall 14's top 10 trends at Milan Fashion Week #MFW14 | EDITD. Retrieved from http://editd.com/blog/2014/02/milans-top-10-trends-forfall-2014/ -Johnson, D. (2007). Color Psychology | Infoplease.com. Retrieved from http:// www.infoplease.com/spot/colors1.html -Meaning of Colors in Color Psychology. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.empower-yourselfwith-color-psychology.com/meaning-of-colors.html -SnapFashun. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.snapfashun.com/advanced_search_result.php? keywords=Menswear&sort=3a&page=3