DIY Wasabi Aioli
TRIP PLANNER: PENDLETON PG. 88
Oregon’s Hot Air Balloon Pilots
Classy Kitchen Upgrades
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HERE’S TO THE HEALERS, HELPERS, AND EVERYDAY HEROES. From health care workers on the front lines to teachers and students finding new ways to learn together online. From grocery clerks keeping the shelves stocked to bus drivers getting us safely where we need to go. And to everyone who is slowing the spread of coronavirus and saving lives by staying home. We are all essential. And we are stronger and safer when we all do our part. Learn more at saif.com.
The patterns of the land are on display when looking down from the basket of a hot air balloon in Oregon’s wine country.
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Up, Up in the Air photography by Gwen Shoemaker
Go on a perspective-shifting hot air balloon adventure with one of Vista Balloon Adventures’ female guides, who are changing the face of hot air ballooning’s male-dominated world. (pg. 64)
JULY | AUGUST 2020
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FEATURES
The Alvord Desert looks unlike most every other place in Oregon.
JULY | AUGUST 2020 • volume 63
54 The Ultimate Oregon Road Trip There’s a lot to see in Oregon. If your far-flung vacation plans have been derailed this summer, consider your own state—and see its many wonders.
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‘Sensation Incomparable’
On the Trail
The female pilots of Newberg’s Vista Balloon Adventures are flying high— and paving the way for more women to be part of this special profession.
Oregon’s history is inextricably linked to the Oregon Trail. Here’s what we would lose if a high-voltage transmission line runs through these vistas.
written by Valerie Estelle Rogers
photography by Joni Kabana
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JULY | AUGUST 2020
Jim Meyers/Vertizon Photography
written by Sheila G. Miller
A new kind of care, backed by everything we know.
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M
Y
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K
Introducing OHSU Health, a system of doctors and nurses, researchers, clinics and hospitals. 52 locations, including that one right near you.
DEPARTMENTS JULY | AUGUST 2020 • volume 63
LIVE 14 NOTEBOOK
Mocktails and sweet treats—that’s what summer is about, and we’ve got a few Oregon options for you. Bonus—an enlightening book from Portland author Kesha Ajose Fisher.
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20 FOOD + DRINK
Get your sushi and pastry fix with our picks from around the state, then plan a trip to Central Oregon’s Rainshadow Organics. Plus, join in our Beerlandia writer’s perfect Central Oregon beer road trip.
24 FARM TO TABLE
Wasabi may be native to Japan, but Oregon Coast Wasabi is one of three producers in the United States. Learn how to incorporate this powerful flavor into your home cooking.
30 HOME + DESIGN
We spend a lot of time in the kitchen. These kitchen upgrades will inspire you to make yours a centerpiece you want to spend time in. Plus, Oregon-made tiles and how to use them. KuDa Photography
36 MIND + BODY
Need inspiration? Look no further than 8-year-old Rylee Hurt, a BMX rider and CrossFit enthusiast who takes her health and fitness very seriously.
38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Two Portland actors have started The Theatre Co., which practices site-specific theater. The first season was derailed by coronavirus, but the show must go on.
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THINK 42 STARTUP
The Dyrt seeks to improve the search for the perfect campsite, with users providing reviews of sites all over the United States. Never get stuck next to a dumpster again!
46 WHAT’S GOING UP
Get outside this summer with a new golf course at legendary Bandon Dunes, as well as more off-season offerings at Mt. Bachelor—we’re talking ziplines.
48 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Jaime Schmidt started Schmidt’s Naturals. When she sold the successful company, she wasn’t done innovating. Now she’s written a book to help other entrepreneurs succeed, as well. Adam Thorn Smith
50 MY WORKSPACE
Bend’s Seahorse Chocolate is a bean-to-bar experience, complete with a local roastery and each bar’s cocoa sourced directly from growers around the world. Joe Kline
52 GAME CHANGER
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Portland’s Partners in Diversity seeks to help companies recruit and retain professionals of color in the region.
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
EXPLORE 82 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
As Oregon slowly reopens, these three Pearl District museums will make for a rich day of culture.
84 ADVENTURE
Put rafting the Owyhee Wild & Scenic River on your ultimate Oregon bucket list—it’s a landscape you have to see to believe.
86 LODGING
Bay Point Landing in Coos Bay is the contemporary glamping resort of your Southern Coast dreams. Bring your own rig or enjoy a tiny house or Airstream trailer.
88 TRIP PLANNER
COVER
photo by Whitney Whitehouse Rowena Crest Viewpoint (see The Ultimate Oregon Road Trip, pg. 54)
Pendleton is synonymous with Round-Up, and for good reason. But there is more to this Eastern Oregon town. Swing through for a taste.
92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Napa Valley is truly the land of plenty—plenty of wine, top restaurants and culture.
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Your heart knows what it wants. We know how to get it.
CONTRIBUTORS
GWEN SHOEMAKER Photographer ‘Sensation Incomparable’
ADAM THORN SMITH Writer and Photographer Adventure
TOBY NOLAN Photographer My Workspace
VALERIE ESTELLE ROGERS Writer ‘Sensation Incomparable’
As a photographer, I often find myself in new environments or unique situations while doing my job. As someone who is afraid of heights, shooting a story that involved a ride in a hot air balloon definitely took me out of my comfort zone. What an amazing experience! Let’s just say, I am ready for my next flight. (pg. 64)
Rivers, history and Oregon are among my biggest passions, so I was stoked for this story! Despite all of my adventures— across fifty countries on five continents—the Owyhee easily ranks among my favorites, strengthening my theory that Oregon might be the best place on Earth. I am beyond grateful to Oregon River Experiences for its continuing legacy of river stewardship, hospitality, expertise, and for showing me more of the state I love. (pg. 84)
Any opportunity to spend time with an artisan is one I jump to accept. R.C. and Amanda Gartrell of Seahorse Chocolate are artisans in the truest sense of the word. The chocolatiers shared their process with me, including the skilled art of roasting their single-origin beans and using a trained sense of smell to ascertain their readiness. Their passion as they discussed what they do, their vision for the future of chocolate, and of course tasting the incredible results of their hard work led to an inspiring and delicious assignment! (pg. 50)
My alarm was set for 4:30 a.m. the first time I volunteered at Vista Balloon Adventures. I watched six baskets fill with excited passengers, then slowly lift from the ground. I stood quietly, hiding the tears streaming down my face, as the hot air balloons floated away and out of sight. What a joy! What a marvel! Seven years later, I still bite back tears. (pg. 64)
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EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
SALES ASSISTANT
HOMEGROWN CHEF
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Elijah Aikens Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Melissa Dalton, Nathaniel Dunaway, Beau Eastes, Tiffany Hill, Michelle Kehm, Jenn Director Knudsen, Sophia McDonald, Valerie Estelle Rogers, Ben Salmon, Adam Thorn Smith, Jen Stevenson, Mackenzie Wilson
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Charlotte Dupont, Joni Kabana, Joe Kline, Darius Kuzmickas/ KuDa Photography, Jim Meyers/Vertizon Photography, Toby Nolan, David Papazian, Gwen Shoemaker, Adam Thorn Smith, Whitney Whitehouse
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Megan Marie Myers
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JULY | AUGUST 2020
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 9
WELL, HERE WE ARE back in print after missing our last issue due to the pandemic. I’ll first say how proud I am of my team for coming together online to produce another amazing work of inspiring storytelling and beauty. Like many other businesses, we haven’t been in office since mid-March. Though we have been operating almost completely remoteready for years, this period proved the concept. Over these months, though, we’ve seen the world fill with anxiety, despair and, now, emergent hope. COVID-19 proved that we were unprepared as a nation for a pandemic—in terms of safety equipment, process and, in some pockets, social dismissal of science and reality. It became apparent that we live in a world where malevolent viruses spread as fast through the air as they do on the internet—in an endless circle of confusion. Just as we started to cheer gains in suppressing these viruses, we witnessed the brutal and senseless killing of George Floyd in Minneapolis. His death sparked an overdue conversation about race in America and massive protests in towns of all sizes across the country. This is the America I know. The one that rises up to a challenge. The one that responds to ongoing injustice. The one that reasons that human rights for one are human rights for all. The one that realizes that this is what makes the American ideal different in the eyes of every oppressed family around the world. Hope. At the bottom of this is education. The spread of racism and harmful viruses are better contained in a society that educates its kids sufficiently and equally. The more we learn as kids, the more we tear down the relics of racism and ignorance of the past. For our part, Statehood Media strives always to educate its readers with bite-sized bits of our past, whether noble or rotten. We strive to show our communities as the diverse mix they are. We think diversity makes us better, stronger and more resistant to malevolent viruses, whether at the cellular or societal level.
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Jenn Redd
FROM THE EDITOR
For those who think otherwise, feel free to exercise your free speech by unsubscribing or by staying with us to expand your perspective. For those who want this vision of Oregon and America, make our numbers stronger by recommending us to your friends. Cheers!
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NOTEBOOK 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 36
pg. 30 Tile in a kitchen can brighten up the gathering space.
David Papazian
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38
HOOD RIVER, OR
MENS • WOMENS • KIDS •
CLOTHING • SHOES TEXTILES MENS WOMENS KIDS• BABY CLOTHING SHOES TEXTILES GIFTS
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Tidbits + To-dos Everyday Bliss ice cream Summer means ice cream time. Coconut Bliss has launched Everyday Bliss, organic, plantbased ice cream. The Eugene-based company has four coconut-based flavors, including salted caramel chocolate chip and vanilla brownie swirl. The organic, vegan treats are just the thing for summer. www.coconutbliss.com
Go outside It’s no secret—there are no large-scale events in Oregon this summer. But that just means fewer distractions from your Oregon scenic bucket list. Most Oregon State Parks have reopened, and it’s a great time to seek Oregon’s Seven Wonders. www.oregonstateparks.org www.traveloregon.com/7wonders
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Ferm Fatale mocktails If you’re tired of your go-to cocktails, check out Ferm Fatale, a Portlandbased company producing mocktails with probiotics and no sugars. Coined a “shrub-bucha,” the drinks have 22 calories per bottle. Find them in flavors such as margarita, cosmopolitan, madame mule and nojito. www.fermfatale.com
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Mint Jewelry Co. This Bend-based jewelry company makes custom stamped necklaces, rings and bracelets that are simple and refined. The mini mountains necklace is an Oregon must-have, while the stacked rings prove Central Oregon can be just as hip as that big city that starts with a P. www.mintjewelry.co
Moonstruck+Argyle Sparkling Wine Collection Portland’s beloved Moonstruck Chocolates has teamed up with another Oregon staple, Argyle Winery. The result? A four-piece Sparkling Wine Collection, with chocolate enrobing the bubbles you love to drink. The pieces are designed to look like corks and have a small amount of alcohol in each. They’re the perfect hostess gift— or enjoy them all on your own. www.moonstruckchocolate.com
Go online While some public spaces have reopened, we know you’re itching for culture now more than ever. Luckily, many of Oregon’s museums have stepped up to the challenge. OMSI is offering science activities to keep kids busy, Portland Art Museum and Northwest Film Center have teamed up to provide at-home programming, and the High Desert Museum started “Museum Moments” to allow everyone to get behind the scenes at the Central Oregon spot. www.omsi.org www.portlandartmuseum.org www.highdesertmuseum.org
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Musician
Tried and True
Mo Troper brings Portland’s changing face into his music.
Portland singer-songwriter Mo Troper relies on himself in crafting his best album yet written by Ben Salmon MO TROPER’S RELATIONSHIP with Portland is … complicated. The 28-year-old singer-songwriter has long been a prominent figure in the city’s music scene, not only as a member of the indie band Your Rival and as a solo artist, but also as former co-owner of the excellent Good Cheer Records label and a music journalist for a handful of local publications. A few years ago, he decided to try living elsewhere, with brief stays in Los Angeles and New York. But then he returned to his hometown, opened a video game and record shop on Hawthorne Boulevard and experienced a fertile creative period that resulted in his new album—his third under his own name—Natural Beauty. Its title comes from a line in “Lucky Devils,” a catchy, upbeat tune that lauds Portland’s aesthetic charms, but also spends two-and-a-half minutes decrying the city’s gentrifying neighborhoods, relative lack of diversity and blind civic exceptionalism. “I think after years of feeling weird about Portland, I finally felt settled when I moved back here, so that gave me more time to concentrate on music,” Troper said. “Lucky Devils” is a perfect example of Troper’s specialty: sweet ’n’ sour power-pop music that soars melodically and stews lyrically. On Natural Beauty, he’s vexed by an old friendship, the music industry, binge eating and wasted youth, among other topics. In each case, his biting meditations are delivered via lush, ultra-catchy songs that recall brainy pop heroes like XTC and The Beach Boys. Back in Portland with more time to focus on music, Troper made the best album of his career so far. He credits a few decisions and shifts in thinking. First, he became “pretty bored” writing about love and loss and challenged himself to “explore more novel, but still personal, subject matter.” Second, he stopped trying to write for full-band performance and zeroed in on crafting the songs themselves. Listen on Spotify “Once I was no longer arranging songs for a live show, I felt really liberated, like I could experiment with more overdubs and stuff like that,” he said. “This was very much a ‘studio’ record.” Third, Troper wrote his own horn and string arrangements on Natural Beauty, rather than hiring someone to do it. He has no formal training in that realm, but learned through close listening to “a lot of great ’60s and ’70s records” and also some generous advice from people like Roger Manning Jr., founder of the cult-favorite pop band Jellyfish, he said. Amidst all the adjustments, however, Troper stuck with his tried-and-true methods in two places: He remains unafraid of writing, recording and releasing unflinchingly honest and personal lyrics, and when it comes to the tunes, he trusts his instincts. “I don’t change a lot of melodies,” he said. “They usually come to me fully formed, or they suck and I discard them.” 16
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Bibliophile
Another Perspective Portland’s Kesha Ajose Fisher tells important, honest stories interview by Sheila G. Miller
IF SUCH A THING as the American Dream still exists, Kesha Ajose Fisher is pretty much the poster child. Fisher, who was raised in Lagos, Nigeria, moved in 1989 to Houston and then Berkeley, California, made it through a chaotic childhood in Africa before becoming a mother of two before 21 and struggling for a time with homelessness. Knowing college wasn’t in the cards (“That’s OK. Life happened,” she said) at that time, she would get a list of books being taught at her local community college and go to the library. “That’s what I would do with my days. I would get these free books and study that way,” she said. When her daughters were a bit older, she enrolled in community college while working full time. And she wrote. “I tell stories that make me feel things about the world,” Fisher said. How lucky for us. Fisher’s book of short stories, No God Like The Mother, was a finalist for the Ken Kesey Award for Fiction at the Oregon Book Awards. Next up, she’s working on a novel about her mother, a Chicago native who picked up her life and moved to Africa to start a life there with her husband. How did you get into writing? I grew up in Lagos, Nigeria, and there was this thing I saw happening where, after parties or when I would go to visit my grandmother, always someone would stand up for no reason and decide to tell a story. These images would show up in my head, and I wondered, ‘How is it that this person is using words to play a movie in my head?’ There was always a fire and white smoke floating into the sky. It was better than any television, honestly. I wanted to tell stories. How did that love of storytelling develop when you came to the United States? I didn’t have the fairest childhood. It was a little chaotic, and we moved around a lot. When my parents split, my 18
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mom came here and my dad stayed there, and my mom struggled a bit after living in Africa and coming back here to start from scratch. … I couldn’t tell her, ‘I miss Nigeria, I miss my home, I miss my dad, I miss all my friends and all the sunshine.’ … But I found a diary. That’s the only place I had to put my thoughts, and over time, even if nothing good or bad happened in a day, I felt like I had to write in it. I didn’t have friends, really, but I had a place to put my thoughts. You obviously draw from your life in your short stories. How do you decide which parts of your real life to include in your pieces? With the title story, ‘No God Like The Mother,’ when I moved to Portland I worked with immigrants and refugees. A lot of these families had moms who were really young and had six or seven or eight kids. It wasn’t all of them, but the majority had a lot of kids. And day after day these women would say, without wanting me to share with their spouses, ‘What can I do to not have another baby without telling my husband? I’m so tired. I love my kids but I don’t want any more. Life in America is hard enough.’ Those moments are what made me write that story, about a young girl who had been having babies and kept losing them, and her life was used to make other people, to the point that she didn’t survive it. So it’s like taking one moment from real life. You take just one thing, one piece, and then the story just builds itself around that. Much of what you write about in your collection feels pretty dark, but the writing is still uplifting. How do you do that? You can write about anything as long as you’re not beating the reader over the head again and again. That goes back to the way I listened to storytellers. They weren’t telling stories about how wonderful their life was—it was, ‘I’ve struggled so long, did God leave me behind?’ And then they’d paint this picture and by the end everyone’s dancing and clapping and singing, and you’re singing about how the world is coming to the end! But you’re feeling joyful. I thought, ‘I want to write about all the things that made me angry. I hate that mothers die, that siblings end up having to raise other siblings, that when sexual assault happens, there are ten questions that come before, ‘Why did this awful thing happen?’ So I thought, ‘I’m going to write about all the stuff that pisses me off.’ But the writing does need to be the light part of it. It is important to be able to write about the things we care about, and not to shy away from the topics that matter to us. At the end of the day, we’re all human and I feel for other people. That was my goal in all of this—to meet on a human level. And it feels like people are still hanging there with me.
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“I grew up in Lagos, Nigeria, and there was this thing I saw happening where, after parties or when I would go to visit my grandmother, always someone would stand up for no reason and decide to tell a story. … I wondered, ‘How is it that this person is using words to play a movie in my head?’” — Kesha Ajose Fisher, author
Kesha Ajose Fisher’s short-story collection was a finalist for an Oregon Book Award. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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food + drink
PLAN YOUR BEER ROAD TRIP When your travel plans take you to Central Oregon, these places are worth adding to your itinerary.
SISTERS Gateway to Central Oregon and some delicious beer.
Dan Mooney
Hop & Brew: Twenty-four taps of craft beer to pair with delicious pizza.
Outdoor evenings at Redmond’s Wild Ride Brewing are divine.
Beerlandia
Summer Beer Trippin’ Through Central Oregon written by Jeremy Storton IT WAS A GLOOMY June day when my wife and I rolled into town as new Central Oregon residents almost twenty years ago. I could count the number of breweries on one hand, with some fingers left over. I had already heard about the dark and flavorful beer in Bend, but it was a side note to the skiing and quiet mountain getaways. Somewhere along the line something changed, and breweries became the focus. Outdoor recreation became a cool pastime between beers. The catalyst was the craft beer boom, led by Oregon and the rest of the Northwest—and to think I arrived just in time to watch the whole thing explode. Craft beer in the 2000s was exciting. Decent brewers became good. Good breweries became great. Early pilgrims would later dub their travels as beer tourism, and Central Oregon would become a mecca. In a place known for outdoor adventure and delicious beer, our natural response was to create more spaces to spend an evening in deep discussion, peppered with banter as we drained our pints dry. I can no longer count the breweries without borrowing fingers from several friends. It is both a burden and a blessing, but people often ask me where to go in Central Oregon to have a beer. This question has become increasingly difficult to answer, but I love the challenge of curating the perfect beer experience in my own backyard. I generally seek three things—great beer, great food and great ambience. However, in summer, as the light in the sky lingers just a bit longer every night, I recommend the quadfecta of enjoying all of it outside in the warm sun of Central Oregon. 20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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Three Creeks Brewing: Its Five Pine porter has won many awards, but the Mexican lager will grace my glass each summer.
REDMOND A medium-sized town with a great beer scene. Porter Brewing: One of a few brewers on the West Coast dedicated to real cask ale. Wild Ride Brewing: Good beer, food trucks and fireplaces outdoors in the heart of downtown. Rimrock Taphouse: Best tap list in town run by a family that makes you feel like, well, family.
BEND Where great beer in Central Oregon began. Crux Fermentation Project: A Bend favorite—the brewmaster is legendary and so is drinking his beer outside as the sun sets behind the mountains. Monkless: A Northwest twist on Belgian beers, with views overlooking the Old Mill and Deschutes River.
The Bite: This beer and food truck lot in the small community of Tumalo is always busy. Go find out why. The Lot: Another beer and food truck lot with great trucks and a beer list that avoids the usual suspects.
PRINEVILLE Three great places all within about a city block of each other. Ochoco Brewing: A community-driven brewery great for a burger and a beer. Crooked River Brewing: The old vehicles, movie theater and outdoor seating with an old truck converted into a fireplace at this taphouse make this place great. Dillon’s Grill: Awesome Western barbecue and attitude paired with a great lineup of craft beer.
SUNRIVER This resort town knows how to R&R (rinse and refill). Mountain Jug: Enjoy an interesting pint or bottle with people who know their beer, while listening to one of many vinyl records. Sunriver Brewing: Eat some delicious grub while sipping beer made by one of the most talented brewers in the region.
food + drink
This Winchester Inn cocktail features rosemary and peppercorns.
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Hannah Loop at The Winchester Inn, Ashland
Rosemary’s Bee Bee • 2 ounces Hendrick’s Gin • ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice • ¾ ounce rosemary black peppercorn honey syrup • Rosemary garnish FOR SYRUP • 2 tablespoons black peppercorns • 1 cup water • 1 cup honey • Handful of fresh rosemary
FOR COCKTAIL Combine and shake over ice, then double strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with rosemary. FOR SYRUP Toast black peppercorns, then add to saucepan with water and honey. Bring to a low simmer. Add a small handful of fresh rosemary and let simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat and steep for 20 minutes. Strain.
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food + drink
CRAVINGS: SWEET BUNS
TWISTED CROISSANT
Charlotte Dupont
If you’ve ever grazed the PSU and Beaverton farmers market booths piled with Mother Nature’s finest greens and gourds, only to be stopped dead in your tracks by rows of golden sugar-dusted banana maple cruffins, ganache-stuffed chocolate croissants and bourbon caramel-drizzled sticky pecan cruff puffs—then you know the allure of The Culinary Institute of America-trained pastry chef Kurt Goddard’s handiwork. Now, experience that love at first sight every day of the week, at Goddard’s new Broadway Street brick and mortar.
Rainshadow Organics holds farm lunches and longtable dinners.
Gastronomy
Rainshadow Organics written by Jen Stevenson AS THE WEATHER warms and road trip season beckons, plan a pleasant backroad ramble to Central Oregon’s Rainshadow Organics, an idyllic family-owned farm that will have you fantasizing about saying so long to the city hustle, pulling on a pair of muddrenched rubber boots and getting to work. Home to owner Sarahlee Lawrence’s parents since the 1970s, the 200-acre farm sits between Sisters and Terrebonne, sharing a stunning stretch of high desert with an alpaca ranch, vineyard and sea of sagebrush. Lawrence and her husband, Ashanti Samuels, established Rainshadow in 2010, carefully coaxing their beloved seedlings, chickens, pigs and cattle through harsh winters and searing summers with the help of an intrepid crew, network of greenhouses, and plenty of grit. As part of its mission to be a driving force for local and sustainable agriculture as well as an Oregon culinary destination, the certified organic farm runs a thriving full-diet CSA, and on-site kitchen and store fully stocked with seasonal heirloom produce, preserves, pasture-raised eggs, homemade bone broth, drinking vinegars, flowers and artisan goods. The weekday prix fixe farm lunch is popular with passersby and locals in the know, while weekends feature Saturday wood-fired pizza lunches on the covered porch, looking out over the property’s 2-acre organic garden. Watch the calendar to snag your seat at a Longtable Dinner, a hearty three-course meal crafted by chef Travis Taylor using the farm’s fresh produce, grains and sustainably raised meat. Should you plan on having too much fun, book the farm’s canvas tent “cabin” for the evening, and watch the next day’s sunrise with the chickens. www.rainshadoworganics.com
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2129 NE BROADWAY PORTLAND www.twistedcroissant.com
OYATSUPAN Pastry fiends, prepare for sensory overload as you walk through the doors of longtime baker Hiro Horie’s Japanese-style Beaverton bakery, where the strip mall façade fronts a literal wall of pastries, ready and waiting to be piled on a tray via your own personal pair of tongs. Horie and his team bake everything from scratch onsite, from pillowy custard cream-filled sweet rolls and golden orbs of red bean paste-stuffed an pan, to Fuji apple-studded croissant swirls and googly-eyed chocolate custard cream cornets. Horie recently opened a sister bakery kiosk at Bridgeport Village. 16025 SW REGATTA LANE BEAVERTON www.oyatsupan.com
SPARROW BAKERY One of Central Oregon life’s greatest joys is claiming one of the cozy little tables inside Whitney and Jessica Keatman’s busy Bend bakery’s Scott Street shop and devouring a warm-from-the-oven ocean roll, that fiercely loved coil of tender croissant dough liberally laced with crushed cardamom and vanilla sugar. Not to be neglected are the hand-folded croissants or the seasonally shifting sweets sitting pretty in the pastry case. The bakery now supplies daily pastries to Portland Stumptown locations, and is opening a cafe inside St. Johns’ new The Union apartment building. 50 SE SCOTT ST.; 2748 NW CROSSING DR. BEND www.thesparrowbakery.net
SWEET WIFE BAKING A prime pit stop for pastry-loving pilgrims en route to Baker City’s National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, retired WNBA player Jenny Mowe’s homey downtown bakery stocks stacks of handmade salted caramel brownies, brown butter Rice Krispies treats, cream cheese-glazed blueberry babka and perfectly gooey pecan cinnamon sticky buns worth savoring over a maple bacon latte and chat with the lively locals. 2080 RESORT ST. BAKER CITY www.sweetwifebaking.com
food + drink BEST PLACES TO
FIND THE RAINBOW ROLL CONNECTION Your sushi snob friends may raise an eyebrow as you lead them to the window of this Multnomah Village food cart, but chef-owner Yoshi Ikeda’s impeccably fresh fish and sashimi artistry stands up to the best of the brick and mortars. Ikeda and fellow sushi savant Nino Ortiz nimbly craft seared albacore and sea scallop nigiri, Skuna Bay salmon sashimi, and a half dozen or so signature rolls, from the kaiware sprouts-topped jackfruit roll to the French Quarter Roll, a mouthwatering mix of curry panko shrimp, seared spicy tuna, avocado, jalapeño and spicy yuzu mayonnaise. 3530 SW MULTNOMAH BLVD PORTLAND www.yoshispdx.com
SUSHI HEAVEN It’s only fitting that after a stroll through Ashland’s Lithia Park, you take a Cherry Blossom or Eternal Sunshine roll break at this friendly family-run Main Street sushi bar, where exquisitely arranged sashimi boats float out of the kitchen alongside delicate rounds of uni nigiri crowned with quail egg yolks, fragrant bowls of prawn-topped seafood udon and piles of tuna poke salad. If you’re thinking outside the salmon shiozake bento box, try the Koreanstyle grilled beef short ribs.
Claire Thorington
YOSHI’S SUSHI
Malka’s international flavors are playful and delicious.
Dining
Malka written by Jen Stevenson
Working with a mix of locally caught seafood and fish imported from Japan’s famed Tsukiji and Toyosu fish markets, Teri Gonzales’s Asianfusion eatery—an expanded version of its Newport sister restaurant—is spicing up sleepy little Depoe Bay with coconut curry udon, soft-shell crab bao and kimchi dumplings.Try the Oregon Roll, stuffed with Dungeness crab and Oregon pink shrimp and topped with slender slices of salmon and tuna, salmon roe and creamy avocado.
AS THE ELECTRIC LIGHT ORCHESTRA would say, there’s “strange magic” afoot in this dreamy Division Street cafe’s kitchen. Spirited chef and co-owner Jessie Aron whips up Holi-colorful coconut rice bowls heaped with slow-roasted pork shoulder in apricot curry barbecue sauce or wedges of soy and sambal-soaked Ota tofu, plates of sticky sweet baby back ribs served with a refreshing cucumber, citrus, and avocado salad and soft squishy griddled Hawaiian rolls, and deep bowls of chicken matzo ball khao soi thick with tender chunks of roasted chicken, schmaltz-roasted vegetables, and pickled mustard greens. An instant hit, the delightfully eclectic, internationally influenced restaurant—a collaboration between Aron and business partner Colin McArthur—has already collected a legion of devoted regulars. Many were already smitten during Aron’s days cooking out of her beloved Carte Blanche food cart, a shiny vintage Airstream trailer hung with patchwork quilt curtains and twinkle lights. Aron’s new home, a sweet blue bungalow just down the street from Kim Jong Grillin’ and across the street from Tasty n Daughters and Stumptown’s flagship coffeehouse, radiates the same playfulness, creative energy and easy charm as its mobile predecessor, with a warm, rich color scheme, intricate wall coverings and artwork, vibrant teal velvet cushions dotted with intricately embroidered throw pillows, plenty of lush greenery and delicate lace curtains to let in the much-welcome summer light. Out the back door and down the stairs, a snug garden patio is poised for those long warm summer nights lingering over a bottle of rosé and dessert— preferably a thick, springy slice of Aron’s pineapple upside-down mochi cake, swimming in coconut cream and garnished with a soft puff of Thai tea whipped cream. Strange magic, indeed.
10 SE BAY ST. DEPOE BAY www.asiaticokitchen.net
4546 SE DIVISION ST. PORTLAND www.malkapdx.com
293 E MAIN ST. ASHLAND www.facebook.com/pages/Sushi-Heaven
YATAI SUSHI After a misty morning spent combing the Lincoln City sand, get your fish fix at this no-nonsense sushi spot, where pretty much everything—from the sunset-hued slabs of salmon nigiri and technicolor tuna poke bowls to the crispy soft shell crab-stuffed Super Spider roll—comes cradled in a cafeteria-style paper tray. To help ward off that Oregon Coast chill, try the Tuna on the Fire roll, packed with spicy tuna and topped with seared slabs of peppercrusted tuna, crisp slices of jalapeño, and fried garlic chips. 1213 NW U.S. 101 LINCOLN CITY www.yatai-sushi.business.site
ASIATICO ASIAN KITCHEN
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Wasabi grows well in cooler weather and shade. The plant’s leaves and stalks are edible as well. Oregon Coast Wasabi also sells seasoning salt. Jennifer Bloeser went from a career as a marine scientist to her wasabi farm.
Farm to Table
Going Green
Oregon-grown wasabi is a versatile and spicy option for your cooking written by Sophia McDonald
SUSHI AFICIONADOS, take note: That spicy, lime green paste next to your dragon roll may be called wasabi, but chances are it isn’t the real thing. Most of the time, it’s a combination of horseradish, powdered mustard and green food coloring. Wasabi is native to Japan, but you can buy it closer to home than you might think. Oregon Coast Wasabi in Tillamook County is one of only three commercial growers in the United States. Co-founder and CEO Jennifer Bloeser quite by accident stumbled onto the relative of the horseradish plant at an equestrian event. A fellow participant had brought some plants to the gathering and was giving them away. Bloeser’s neighbors in Southeast Portland were always sharing the bounty from their gardens with her, and she was looking for something to give back. Wasabi, she suspected, would be an unduplicated but welcome addition to the local cornucopia. 24
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Bloeser and her co-founder, husband Markus Mead, went from sharing with their neighbors to distributing wasabi to a nationwide customer base in 2010. The company grows around 20,000 plants in nine greenhouses on a plot of rural land. In addition to selling fresh wasabi to local restaurants, the company offers seasoning salts, powdered wasabi and live plants to home gardeners. Wasabi belongs to the brassica family of plants, which also includes foods such as broccoli and cabbage. Like most members, it appreciates cooler weather, which makes the Oregon Coast an ideal place to grow it. Unlike many of its cousins, though, it requires full shade, which is a primary reason Bloeser keeps the plants in greenhouses. Start to finish, it takes about eighteen months to grow a wasabi rhizome to a marketable size. Once it’s dug up and cleaned,
farm to table
“It’s really fun to get to interact with the culinary world and chefs and grow something that people like to eat. People who love to garden, they get a kick out of these plants.”
Photos: Oregon Coast Wasabi
— Jennifer Bloeser, Oregon Coast Wasabi co-founder and CEO
Bloeser recommends using a microplane grater to shave small bits next to sushi or to use in various dishes. The plant’s leaves and stalks are edible too, so it can be enjoyed long before the rhizome is harvested. “Anything you do with kale or spinach, you can do with wasabi greens,” Bloeser said. “The leaves are awesome in salads. They have a light spiciness like a mustard green or arugula. People swap them for spinach in spanakopita. They can be stir-fried or used in soup. In Japan, one of the traditional ways to eat them is to do a quick pickle. You soak them in sugar and salt, let them sit for fifteen minutes, then rinse them off.” She described the stalks as “spicy celery” and recommended juicing them. Once the rhizome is gone, of course, the plant will be gone, too. But by that point, the plant will have produced several offshoots. Before harvesting the rhizome, break off the babies
and transplant them—with the knowledge that they’re not going to take over the yard the way horseradish does. Bloeser gave up a career as a marine scientist to become a farmer and small business owner, but has found the profession and the plants just as mentally stimulating. The company has grown so much that it’s looking to expand to a second location along the coast. It employs four people in Tillamook County. “The plant itself is really fascinating,” she said. “It has a really deep history and a wide range of uses that, particularly in the U.S., we really aren’t aware of. They’ve been used for many thousands of years for many health-related things. It has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antiparasitic properties.” Evidence suggests it may have some anticarcinogenic elements as well. “It’s really fun to get to interact with the culinary world and chefs and grow something that people like to eat,” Bloeser added. “People who love to garden, they get a kick out of these plants. It’s fun to grow something that makes people happy.” One easy option for enjoying fresh wasabi at home is salmon crudo with kohlrabi, apple, wasabi and pickled mustard seeds from Lauro Romero, executive chef at King Tide Fish & Shell in Portland. With the juice of fresh wasabi stalks, make a Bloody Mary mix for brunch or evening cocktails. The recipe comes courtesy of Kyle Ritchie, bar manager at Portland’s Doug Fir Lounge. If you don’t have access to fresh wasabi, look for real wasabi powder instead. It can be used in dishes like aioli from Joe Kim, chef-owner of 5 Fusion & Sushi Bar in Bend. He likes the recipe because it’s so versatile. “It can be used to make a salad dressing. It can be used on a sandwich. It could be used to dip French fries in, or served at room temperature with asparagus,” he said. When using wasabi powder, be sure to hydrate it first by mixing it with water or another flavored liquid, Kim noted. Skipping this step can lead to dry pockets or clumping when the wasabi is added to a dish. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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farm to table
Doug Fir Bloody Mary Mix The Doug Fir / PORTLAND SERVES 6-8 FOR WASABI JUICE • 7 ounces fresh wasabi leaves and stems • Citric acid, lemon or lime juice • Splash of vodka
The Doug Fir’s Bloody Mary uses wasabi juice.
Oregon Recipes
Spicy Sustenance King Salmon Crudo with Wasabi and Kohlrabi-Apple Relish King Tide Fish & Shell / PORTLAND Lauro Romero SERVES 6 FOR SALMON • 10 ounces sashimi-grade king salmon, thinly sliced • Yuzu juice, or sub orange juice • Soy sauce FOR KOHLRABI-APPLE RELISH • 1 Granny Smith apple, small diced • 1 small kohlrabi, peeled and small diced • 1 ounce shallot, small diced • 1 lime, juiced and zested • ½ ounce yuzu juice, or sub orange juice • 1 ounce extra-virgin olive oil • 6 mint leaves, chiffonade FOR WASABI OIL • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil • 2 ounces fresh wasabi root • 1 ounce chives • ½ teaspoon salt
FOR SALMON Place the sliced salmon in a bowl and dress with yuzu, salt and soy sauce. Let it marinate for about a minute. Evenly distribute slices of salmon among six plates, then spoon the relish on top of each salmon slice. Drizzle with some of the wasabi oil and garnish with fresh shaved wasabi root on top, depending on desired heat level. FOR KOHLRABI-APPLE RELISH Mix all ingredients in a bowl and season with salt, to taste. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until ready to use. You can prep this a couple of hours in advance. FOR WASABI OIL Warm the oil, transfer to a blender and add chives, fresh wasabi and salt. Puree all ingredients at high speed for about 2-3 minutes. Strain through a fine colander layered with cheesecloth, cool and set aside.
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FOR BLOODY MARY BASE • 46 ounces tomato juice, unsalted • 7 grams Kosher salt • 7 grams celery salt • 8 grams freshly ground black pepper • 2 grams cayenne pepper • 64 grams Portland Worcestershire sauce (vegan) • 30 grams A.1. sauce • 14 grams lemon juice • 18 grams lime juice FOR WASABI JUICE Juice the fresh wasabi leaves and stems with a masticating juicer. Fine strain the juice using a chinois. Let the wasabi juice stand at room temperature for roughly 45 minutes, allowing it to oxidize and activating the wasabi’s heat. Add a splash of citric acid or lemon or lime juice, as well as a splash of vodka once the desired level of heat is reached. FOR BLOODY MARY BASE Mix all ingredients, then add 4 ounces of your wasabi juice to the base and mix well.
Wasabi Aioli
5 Fusion & Sushi Restaurant / BEND Joe Kim • 2 egg yolks • ½ cup grapeseed oil • 1 teaspoon yuzu juice • 1 tablespoon fresh or frozen wasabi (or sub 1 teaspoon hydrated wasabi powder) Combine oil, yuzu juice and wasabi in a food processor. While the food processor is running, add yolks to the other ingredients. The mixture will begin to thicken as it emulsifies together. Once you have the consistency of mayonnaise, it is fully emulsified. Store in an airtight container for up to a week. If using powdered wasabi, always hydrate your wasabi with water or another flavored liquid first. If you try to mix it into a recipe without hydrating it first, it will take a long time to mix or not mix at all, adding clumps or dry pockets.
The World’s Sweetest Tree Ripened Cherries
800-709-4722 info@HRCherryCompany.com HRCherryCompany.com
farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Smoked Salmon and Asparagus Spring Rolls with Wasabi Soy Lemon Aioli
Guru
MAKES 10 PIECES
written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont I TOOK A deep breath, straightened my tie and opened the kitchen’s back door. Van Hagar, cranked to a pan-shaking eleven, enveloped the prep cooks and dishwashers reading for the lunch rush. Instantly, I was in the way. “I’m here to see chef—is Greg here?” I asked a tall, lanky cook as he brushed past me, his arms outstretched, with a steamtable pan of freshly made pasta. “I’m here for an interview.” “Oh, you mean Guru? I’ll get him.” I waited for a while, trying to squeeze out of the way and wondering if I was in the right place. Finally a booming voice shouted over the music, “Hey Thor! I’m Greg. Everyone here calls me Guru.” Greg, or Guru, had a ponytail, chef pants with a crazy pattern of red tomatoes and a Karate Kid headband. These checked all my boxes for “kitchen people to stay away from.” But I really needed this job, and after a short talk with “Guru,” was told I could start immediately. The prep area was tight and each cook had to defend their precious 14 inches of workspace. Guru, on the other hand, worked at a spacious end of one of the prep tables and protected this area like an imperial guard. An oscillating fan, aimed at him from the shelf above, saw to his comfort. Cross the line near his space, and he’d throw a tantrum, flailing with faux jiu-jitsu moves lest anyone encroach. He referred to himself in the third person, as in “Guru doesn’t like that.” He was always working on some kind of secret project—always an Asian-Italian fusion dish that he’d run as a dinner special. He used wasabi in everything. “Ahi manicotti with a wasabi soy ginger glaze!” he’d exclaim, confidently nodding his head. “Tomorrow—nori pasta with rock shrimp, edamame and wasabi cream sauce.” One warm spring afternoon, I was moving through the prep area, my hands full of vegetables, meat and spices, and to quickly rearrange my grip, I stopped, setting an onion down in his area. Guru caught sight of this and got 2 inches from my face, yelling gibberish and something about respect. As I grabbed the prep items and moved away, Guru maneuvered into his crane-kick stance. Suddenly, his arms went up, and as he readied to release his punishment, his tin of wasabi powder fell from the top shelf into the oscillating fan, shooting the spicy green Japanese horseradish into Guru’s face. The guru, his red eyes swollen and tearing, took the rest of the night off. I cleaned his prep area and finished working on his dinner special for that evening—smoked salmon and asparagus spring rolls with wasabi soy lemon aioli. They were delicious. Here’s the recipe. 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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FOR WASABI SOY LEMON AIOLI • 1 cup mayonnaise • ¼ cup lemon juice • 4 teaspoons soy sauce • 3+ tablespoons sesame oil • 1 tablespoon wasabi paste • 1 tablespoon minced garlic FOR SPRING ROLL FILLING • 10 pieces sliced smoked salmon lox • 20 asparagus spears, grilled • 1 teaspoon scallion, green part, minced • 1½ cups shredded red cabbage • ¼ cup chopped cilantro • ½ to 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds • 1 teaspoon of soy sauce TO ASSEMBLE • 10 spring roll wrappers, about 8-inch squares • 1 egg white or egg, beaten lightly • Canola oil, 2-3 inches deep and heated to 350 degrees FOR WASABI SOY LEMON AIOLI Combine all ingredients with a small whisk or large fork. Taste and adjust if needed. FOR SPRING ROLL FILLING Combine scallion, red cabbage, cilantro, sesame seeds and soy. Set aside. TO ASSEMBLE Keeping the spring roll package covered with a damp cloth, place 2 spring roll wrappers, like a diamond shape, on your counter. Place one salmon piece horizontally, just south of the middle of the wrapper. On top of the salmon, place two spears of asparagus followed by a tablespoon of the red cabbage mixture. Roll up once, tightly fold in the left and right points, and continue rolling tightly, sealing the top of the diamond with some egg white. (Use egg white to seal left and right ends if they are not cooperating.) After all rolls are assembled, fry them a few minutes on each side until a light or medium brown, and drain them on a double layer of paper towels. Slice each roll in half on an extreme diagonal. (Your knife needs to be very sharp to do this cleanly.) Arrange on a plate and garnish with any leftover cabbage mixture. Place the wasabi aioli in a shallow cup on the plate. Serve hot.
farm to table Smoked salmon and asparagus distinguish these spring rolls.
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home + design
Color defines this kitchen reboot in Southeast Portland.
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home + design
Beyond Basic
These three kitchens eschew plain subway tile for picks with more pizazz written by Melissa Dalton
KuDa Photography
SE Portland: Craving Color THERE WAS NEVER a question as to whether Shelly and Paul Buchanan would embrace color in their kitchen. “I wanted color to be a distinctive quality of the space,” said Shelly, a painter and school librarian. “We’ve spent a fair amount of time in Mexico—places where bright colors are part of the common palette,” added Paul, an employment lawyer. “I think both of us have always been drawn to that, even though it’s not very typical for the more muted Pacific Northwest.” After sixteen years in their 1930 Sellwood cottage, the couple was ready for a new kitchen. They disliked how the work triangle was bookended by an eating nook and a dining room, finding that the two seating areas were redundant and the cook was shut away behind a door. Enter interior designer Therese DuBravac from Neil Kelly with a scheme that not only functions better, but reflects the couple’s history in the home and love of vibrant color. For the new plan, DuBravac co-opted the nook, removed the door and widened the entry, inventoried belongings to optimize storage and created dedicated zones. Now, there’s a deep baking counter for rolling dough and a beverage station for brewing coffee. A peninsula allows the cook to chat with guests, serve the meal or sit for an informal bite. The material mix feels good under hand, from the brass hardware and black enamel Aga range to the green soapstone and locally sourced Madrone counters. Shelly picked the backsplash tile, a sunny pattern from tilemaker Pratt & Larson, and DuBravac complemented it with a terracotta floor tile in a subtle gradation of shades. “They liked the idea that the materials were not static and perfect, that things showed age over time,” DuBravac said. “They talked about the fun and family memories in the house, and how the wear is a reflection of how the house is used.” JULY | AUGUST 2020
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KuDa Photography
home + design
ABOVE A sunny tile from Pratt & Larson mixes up the kitchen. AT RIGHT, TOP The Dunthorpe kitchen includes new wood beams and a fresh tile. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT In the Tigard home, the designer took down a wall to connect the kitchen and dining area. White quartz counters and flat-front cabinets give the kitchen a modern feel. A skylight adds depth, and the orange tile provides a pop of color.
Turns out, the brilliant turquoise on the cabinetry, “Mariner” by Sherwin Williams, is a favorite color among many. “It fits right in,” Shelly said. “Our dining room is orange. My office is a light turquoise. Our bedroom is yellow. All the rooms have color.”
When Wendy Collins and her husband bought their 1977 fixer-upper in Tigard’s Bull Mountain neighborhood in 2006, “It was the worst house on the block,” she said. But a half-acre yard compensated for pancake batter yellow walls, off-white carpeting and faux marble Formica. Over time, the couple updated bathrooms and painted the exterior, but didn’t address the kitchen’s issues until calling Christie Architecture in 2014. The existing kitchen was a tight U-shape that forced a busy circulation path through the work triangle and caused a choke point at the refrigerator. “For some reason, my kid and my dog were always at the fridge,” Collins said. Architect Lisa Christie also noticed the clunky layout. “Everything felt choppy and not cohesive,” she said. Christie designed a new plan that better protects the cook. First, a small addition enlarged the space by less than 100 square feet, and the kitchen table was swapped for a 7-foot island with seating on one side, where the kids now naturally gravitate. A cleverly placed skylight mirrors the length of the island to make the sub-8-foot ceilings feel higher and bathe the prep space with natural light. Christie removed a wall in order to connect the kitchen and adjacent dining room. Now, white quartz counters and flat-front cabinets let the workspace recede, while a long spine of walnut cabinetry conveys 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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Photos: KuDa Photography
Tigard: A Happy Backsplash
home + design
warmth and knits the two areas together. “The idea was to make part of the kitchen really quiet and bright, and then have that [walnut] focal wall,” Christie said. When Christie asked Collins what she wanted for the stove backsplash, Collins thought she should play it safe and suggested a basic subway tile. But the architect wasn’t having it, instead producing a tile sample in Collins’ favorite color. “She just had a way of reaching into my head and understanding what I wanted, and presenting it to me in a way that I could never have articulated,” Collins said. Now, there’s a bright spot of orange Clayhaus tile behind the stove. “It really is my favorite thing,” Collins said. “It makes me happy.”
David Papazian
SW Portland: Modern Mediterranean Many homeowners appreciate a house with history. While the old plaster walls and beamed ceilings in this 1927 Mediterranean-style home in the Dunthorpe neighborhood of Portland certainly conveyed historic charm, the kitchen had been left in a state of arrest. Thanks to a poor remodel by a previous seller, non-loadbearing walls had been cut down to create an open plan, the sheetrock left rough and unfinished. “It’s hard to describe how bad it was,” said interior designer Joelle Nesen, whose firm Maison worked with Cornerstone Construction to rectify the damage. The homeowner’s goals were straightforward: she wanted a cook’s kitchen with lots of storage and room to move. The team started by incorporating a small addition, then adding hefty wood beams at the 10½-foot ceilings in order to weave the new space in with the old. “That was sort of a mathematical problem to get the sizing right, and to feel appropriate to the house,” Nesen said of the new beams. Tall steel windows at the sink also fit in with the original architecture. Throughout the project, the team endeavored to take cues from the home’s Mediterranean style without getting slavish about period detail. Crisp Shaker cabinets with streamlined brass pulls were topped with a rich soapstone counter. Wire mesh inserts lend a relaxed feel to the upper cabinets, which the designers used to frame a statement wall of terracotta tile from Ann Sacks. The tile’s honey yellow, charcoal and off-white pattern reads both old world and fresh. “We wanted something that didn’t feel too fussy, and also a little more modern,” Nesen said. “But also, like somebody could say, ‘Oh this? It was sitting in the garage and we found it.’” A custom black steel stove hood completes the composition. The kitchen is no longer a site of arrested development. Nesen recently checked in with the homeowner: “She said it encourages her to cook and create more often,” the designer said. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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KuDa Photography
home + design
In the Tigard kitchen, orange Clayhaus tile brings attention to the area.
DIY: Tile Tips NEED A NEW backsplash? Tile options can feel endless. These three designers offer tips to guide the decision. HUMAN VS MACHINE Are you someone who likes the idiosyncrasies and variation of handmade tile? Or, do you prefer the precision of a machine-made piece and knowing that each one will look exactly like the next? Interior designer Therese DuBravac proposes a little introspection, or Pinterest searching, to identify your personal preference. FUNCTION FIRST Check the manufacturer guidelines for the tile’s intended use, such as floors versus walls, or an indoor or outdoor kitchen scheme. “Make sure the tile that you select is rated appropriately for its uses,” DuBravac said. Nesen agreed. “For instance, if people are doing an all-gas range, watch out that the amount of steam and heat that it puts off [won’t] cause discoloration on handmade tiles,” Nesen said. RESEARCH SPECIFICS Not all tile will work for all design applications. “You must 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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understand the details and limitations of the tile,” DuBravac said. “What are the borders? How are the edges finished? What are the technical options for that tile?” For example, if the design calls for a finished edge at the long side of a regular 3x6 field tile, you’ll need to check whether the manufacturer makes it. SCALE MATTERS “A backsplash is not a large area, so it’s best to use a small-to-medium-ish tile. Nothing bigger than 3x9 or so,” suggested architect Lisa Christie. “That way, you can really see the pattern. If the tile is too large, you end up with so few tiles that you can’t read the pattern.” IS TILE THE STAR OR SUPPORTING PLAYER? “Tile can be the jewelry of a space,” DuBravac said. But know whether your selection will be the primary statement or act as a supporting player to the other elements in the design. “Every piece in your kitchen does not need to be the star,” Nesen said.
home + design
Oregon-Made Tile Our state has a variety of options to help you shop local
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1) Opened as a handmade tile studio in Portland in 2006,
today Tempest Tileworks produces six different lines of tile, from the “Bread & Butter” field to whimsical silk-screened designs to modern graphic patterns with a pop. www.tempesttileworks.com
2) For a stunning focal point, look no further than the
graceful branches and artful blooms of the Sakura Cherry Tree mural from Kibak Tile in Sisters. Each installation is unique, hand-crafted piece by piece to fit your home. www.kibaktile.com/catalog/sakura-cherry-tree
3) If you have an old Craftsman or historic Mediterranean,
be sure to check out Metolius Ridge Artisan Tile from
Justyn Livingston’s studio in Bend. The selection exudes an old-world aura of pattern and craft that would suit any historical renovation. www.metoliusridgeartisantile.com 4) Terrazzo is made by binding chips of stone and/or glass in a cementitious material or epoxy resin, and has taken the design world by storm many times over. First originating with Greek and Roman floor mosaics, it became popular in the U.S. much later, in the 1920s. Portland’s New Age Design Studio is bringing a fun, modern version to market with the Gemstone Terrazzo tile, which captures slices of colorful gemstones in a rich background.
www.newagedesign.studio/pages/terrazzo-tile JULY | AUGUST 2020
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mind + body
Wild and Free Rylee Hurt is an intense athlete. She’s also 8. written by Mackenzie Wilson photography by Joe Kline
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mind + body
“You have to be serious about it and focus. I’m practicing that right now. And like … kind of work your butt off.” — Rylee Hurt, on doing CrossFit
AT LEFT Rylee Hurt, 8, at the Homestead Park pump track in Redmond. ABOVE Hurt rides her bike around the track.
MAGAZINE PROFILES LIKE THIS are usually reserved for people who’ve accomplished something—people considered above average for their physical abilities. But what if you met those people before they stepped into the spotlight? Would you see a spark in them? The second I saw a photo of Rylee Hurt working out on a rowing machine, I knew the 8-yearold was different. Her hair was tied back in messy pigtails, the kind you see little girls running around the playground with—wild and free, just like them. Her eyebrows were furrowed with concentration and the intensity of her stare told me she wasn’t working out at CrossFit Thrice, a Bend gym her dad frequents, to be “cute.” Ronnie Hurt, Rylee’s dad, started her in CrossFit last August to train for a BMX race called the Gold Cup. “She beat out the boys in the Gold Cup and she got first place in her 8-year-old division,” Hurt said. Rylee does a modified version of the workout adults do at CrossFit Thrice. “You have to be serious about it and focus. I’m practicing that right now,” Rylee said. “And like … kind of work your butt off.” She doesn’t lift heavy weights—5 pounds is her max. She mainly does bodyweight exercises like squats, pullups, burpees and box jumps. “It’s good for my body because I have to stay calm … I have a little body and don’t want to overdo it,” Rylee said.
Her dad got into CrossFit in 2012 to train for his first marathon. Over the years, other parents brought their kids to the gym and now both Rylee and her older brother, Cole, work out there, too. “The mobility side of it is why I like CrossFit, and that’s why I let my kids do it,” Hurt said. “Because having mobility is going to allow you to do anything you want.” Most people call that cross-training—but Rylee eloquently put it like this: “CrossFit is the main idea of all the sports that I’m doing,” she said. “Pretend it’s a book and this is the main idea, the other sports are like a detail.” Brent Blakely, the owner of CrossFit Thrice, said Rylee is the gym’s youngest athlete and has a drive most kids don’t. “She moves a lot better than some of my adult athletes,” Blakely said. “Her body awareness is there at such a young age.” Hurt said he’ll let Rylee do CrossFit as long as she likes it. In the future she could compete in it—the CrossFit Games allow athletes as young as 14. I asked Rylee if she wanted to be a CrossFit athlete when she grew up—turns out she really wants to be a veterinarian. Maybe in a decade there will be another story about Rylee. But whether it will be about her talents in BMX, skateboarding, CrossFit or as a veterinarian is a toss-up. The best thing about being 8 is you’ve got your whole life ahead of you, and anything is possible. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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artist in residence Brandon Woolley and Jen Rowe founded The Theatre Company, which will put on site-specific plays in Portland.
Theater in Found Spaces The Theatre Company will offer innovative plays in storied Portland locations written by Tiffany Hill
JEN ROWE AND BRANDON WOOLLEY have worked together in Portland’s bustling, tight-knit theater community for years. They’ve both been actors, directors, self-producers and collaborators. The two reconnected last summer auditioning for the leads in “Miss Bennett: Christmas at Pemberley,” which ran in December at Portland Center Stage at The Armory. Spoiler—they weren’t cast. Instead, the friends opted for something grander. In June, they added founding a theater company to their repertoires and launched The Theatre Company. 38
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artist in residence
This year, The Theatre Company planned to debut its inau- Hallowed Halls, also in Southeast Portland. The venue was gural season with two innovative and unconventional plays: originally a library, then transitioned into a government build“The Moors” and “Vinegar Tom,” directed by Wooley and ing for juvenile justice. Today, it’s a charming events space and Rowe, respectively. But like virtually every aspect of daily a recording studio. life, the coronavirus pandemic upended their launch. Until The Theatre Company got permission to rewrite the songs it’s safe to once again gather to watch live theater, the sea- and plans to hire four to eight local singers and songwriters. son is postponed. But the two have kept busy and instead are “Our mission is to enliven our community by transforming pivoting to online programming. This includes a partnership found spaces like this one,” he said, gesturing to TaborSpace’s with a Portland arts orvaulted ceiling and lumiganization, Artslandia, to nous stained-glass windows. offer audio experiences of By staging in existing spacThe Theatre Company’s es, The Theatre Company inaugural season. will also cultivate partnerThe start-date setback ships with the non-theater aside, The Theatre Comcommunity. And Woolley pany’s innovation will be added that by collaborating worth the wait. What sets with organizations like TaRowe’s and Woolley’s enborSpace, they aren’t comdeavor apart from others peting for venues with their in Portland isn’t necessarily peers. Currently Portland is the plays, thought-provokfacing a space crisis as the ing as they are. The Thecity continues to grow and atre Company is site-spetransition, making it more cific theater, a first for the challenging to keep tradiRose City. tional venues. “Site-specific theater is not “We aren’t beholden to an a new revolutionary thing,” artistic home in a particular Rowe said. “We are not startcommunity, trying to draw ing something completely audiences to that one place. new. Site-specific theater has This gives us access to go all been in existence for a very over our community and long time, but it’s not in Porttry and tap into various land. We’re excited to be the audiences that might not ones to take the opportunity.” necessarily have an artistic Rowe said the two dishome in their community, cussed the traditional theor might not necessarily be ater model of renting a aware of what’s happening space, even going as far as in a centralized location scouting potential locations. where most of the theaters “We were going to go down are,” Rowe said. “I think that that road,” she said. “We freedom and liberty also couldn’t answer this quesgive us a little bit of an edge — Jen Rowe, co-founder and co-artistic director tion: What are you bringing to get to choose plays that of The Theatre Company that’s new?” are a little more risky.” “We weren’t bringing While they wait out soanything new!” said Woolley, jovially answering her rhe- cial distancing concerns, the two continue to collaborate with torical question. The two have a convivial, driven air about local playwrights, actors and directors to promote new crethem. They talk frequently to discuss Theatre Company mat- ative works and push forward with their mission of spotlightters—these days over video chat—but pre-COVID-19, their ing Portland spaces through art. place of choice was TaborSpace, a nonprofit gathering space “Our intention is to give back to Portland as much as Portand coffee shop. It will be the found home for their first play, land gives back to us,” Rowe said. “If we can link with local “The Moors,” by New-York based playwright Jen Silverman. businesses that are still in existence and try to foster a sense of “Vinegar Tom,” a Caryl Churchill play, will be staged at the community, then that feels like an exciting alchemy.”
“We aren’t beholden to an artistic home in a particular community, trying to draw audiences to that one place. This gives us access to go all over our community and try and tap into various audiences that might not necessarily have an artistic home in their community, or might not necessarily be aware of what’s happening in a centralized location where most of the theaters are. I think that freedom and liberty also give us a little bit of an edge to get to choose plays that are a little more risky.”
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STARTUP 42 WHAT’S GOING UP 46 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 48 MY WORKSPACE 50
pg. 50 At Seahorse Chocolate in Bend, cocoa beans are roasted before being turned into chocolate bars.
Toby Nolan
GAME CHANGER 52
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startup
Startup
Happy Campers The Dyrt demystifies campgrounds with reviews, photos and user info written by Sheila G. Miller | illustration by Megan Marie Myers
THE DYRT IS FOR anyone who has gotten excited to go camping, then ended up with a tent right next to the dumpster, the bathroom with its all-night light or a busy highway. Frustrated by the lack of useful information online about campsites, Sarah Smith decided to find a solution— and The Dyrt was born. “My husband and I are avid campers, and we moved to Oregon and started exploring new areas. And it was really frustrating to try to find a campground online,” she said. “There were all these really generic descriptions, but what I wanted was someone else’s opinion like I would for a restaurant or a hotel. So enough frustration built up that I just finally said, ‘OK, I’m going to do this.’” That was in 2013. Smith first created a Wordpress site and asked people to email her photos and reviews of campgrounds. That was enough of a success that she knew others shared her frustration, so in 2015 Smith went through a 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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business accelerator program in Colorado. Then her husband, Kevin Long, quit his job to join her at The Dyrt. The couple sought funding and investments, and soon the idea took off. “When you’re solving a real problem that really affects people, you’re going to have success,” Smith said. “There are 70 million Americans who go camping, and every single one I’ve ever talked to found this to be a problem.” The Dyrt is an app and a website. It covers the entire United States, offering a platform for users to explore tens of thousands of campsites and campgrounds around the country. Users receive points
© Mapbox, © OpenStreetMap / thedyrt.com
startup
The Dyrt’s website allows users to check out user reviews of campsites throughout the U.S. AT RIGHT Sarah Smith started The Dyrt to help people get outside more often, and more successfully.
for their reviews, and each month the reviewer who racks up the most points in each region wins a prize from an outdoor brand that partners with The Dyrt. Thanks to that user interaction, The Dyrt now has more than a half million photos, videos, reviews and tips for campers of all stripes. The top 1 percent of users who are very active on the site, known as “rangers,” visit the company’s Portland office and send Christmas cards to the company. “Having these relationships with users is really, really special and I think it’s super rare,” Smith said. “I’m really proud of what we’ve done, that we’ve built this really crazy, amazing, caring group of people who care about the outdoors.” The Dyrt’s community generally polices itself—there is a flagging system that allows users to report anything offensive, incorrect or irrelevant. “We rely heavily on our community to help us maintain good data,” Smith said. Of course, there are some naysayers—people upset to see their favorite spot with a bunch of five-star reviews on the site. “Public places are public and they’re for all of us, and there are no secret spots,” Smith said. “Everyone should be able to enjoy the outdoors,
including spots that you discover or learn about from others. That’s a very elitist comment that I don’t always like to hear.” The company earns revenue in a couple ways. First, it is increasingly adding bookable inventory on the site that allows a user to look up a campsite, then book it right on The Dyrt without going to another site. Second, it recently launched The Dyrt Pro, which for a fee allows users to access all its information offline, which can be very useful when you’re out in the woods. The service allows a user to search campgrounds and reviews offline, as well as to download maps for use when offline. Booking fees are also waived for Pro users. The service costs $29.99 a year. The company seeks to make camping more accessible and more appealing to people. Next up, it plans to add route-planning and trip-planning abilities to its options, and it continues to add to its bookable inventory. aThe goal—to make The Dyrt “the go-to resource for people going camping,” Smith said. The Dyrt is currently the top camping app for iOS and Android users. “We want people to get out there more,” Smith said, “and when you’re getting out there, they’re having experiences that are better, because they didn’t just waste a weekend camping next to a dumpster instead of a bubbling stream.”
“Having these relationships with users is really, really special and I think it’s super rare. I’m really proud of what we’ve done, that we’ve built this really crazy, amazing, caring group of people who care about the outdoors.” — Sarah Smith, The Dyrt co-founder 44 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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THE {FULL} LIFE CONTINUES
FULL-SERVICE RETIREMENT COMMUNITIES:
1 2
1. TOUCHMARK IN THE WEST HILLS PORTLAND, OREGON 2. TOUCHMARK AT MOUNT BACHELOR VILLAGE BEND, OREGON
TOUCHMARK.COM/TIMES 2023089 © Touchmark, LLC, all rights reserved
Bandon Dunes Golf Resort
what’s going up?
Outdoor Opportunities Keep your social distance this summer with adventures in the outdoors written by Sheila G. Miller IF WE’VE LEARNED anything from the past couple months, it’s that getting outside is vital to our mental health. To that end, here are some of Oregon’s new outdoor facilities waiting for us to enjoy. Sheep Ranch is the newest golf course at Bandon Dunes Golf Resort. Slated to open June 1, this Coore & Crenshaw-designed eighteen-hole course will be par 71 and 6,785 yards. The property features 1 mile of ocean front, with nine greens located right on the edge of the Pacific Ocean. In January, Portland Parks opened a new pedestrian bridge, the Barbara Walker Crossing, that connects the popular Wildwood Trail to Washington Park. The bridge allows runners and walkers to avoid crossing the busy West Burnside Road. The trail runs for about 30 miles, through Forest and Washington parks and past Pittock Mansion. And at Mt. Bachelor, the ski area’s all-season offerings continue to get more interesting. After opening mountain-biking trails beginning in 2016, the resort is adding sections of trail to its current network. The move is expected to provide more opportunities for a variety of skill levels. The construction was slated to begin this spring. Meanwhile, the resort also plans to open a threepart zipline experience at the mountain this summer. The zipline covers 1,400 vertical feet, has side-by-side lines, will have a self-controlled braking system and begins at the top of the Pine Marten lift. It’s expected to be open each year between May and October.
Bandon Dunes’ new Sheep Ranch course has nine greens overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
NO DISAPPOINTMENT HERE.
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse as seen from Waikiki Beach in Cape Disappointment State Park
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what i’m working on Jaime Schmidt is an entrepreneur, investor and author.
Maker to Mogul Nicholas Peter Wilson
After hitting the jackpot, Jaime Schmidt now wants to help others succeed interview by Sheila G. Miller
JAIME SCHMIDT IS busy. Since the entrepreneur and founder of Schmidt’s Naturals sold her company to Unilever in 2017, she’s started a media company, built an investment portfolio that supports businesses built by women and people of color, and recently published a new book to help entrepreneurs like her. Oh, and she and her husband purchased Portland Made, a collective of entrepreneurs and makers. What appeals to you about having so many different projects going at once? I spent seven years growing my business, Schmidt’s Naturals, and I guess once an entrepreneur, always an entrepreneur. It becomes your life. After I sold the business to Unilever in 2017, at that time I was certainly facing a life shift. I had options. One thing that was important to me was to stay connected to Schmidt’s and to still be involved with the brand. But I also had this time on my hands, and I realized I’d gained so much knowledge and experience from growing and building the company that I could put to good use. What sparked your decision to start Color, your investment portfolio? 48
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It was mostly in response to direct asks for funding. We had the capital from the acquisition and we knew we could help on an operational level. My husband, Chris, ran the marketing for Schmidt’s, so together the two of us had this wealth of knowledge. We knew we could help businesses scale, and it was a real opportunity to support the underrepresented—women and people of color. There is so much potential and talent and opportunity in those communities, and we wanted to be a part of it. Our mission was to have the most impact that we could. We all know the statistics about funding—for women and people of color it’s significantly lower, but the opportunities there are so strong. There are founders bringing amazing companies to the table and they just need support to bring them to the
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next level. It was a mix of do-good and a business decision on our part. What inspired you to write your book, Supermaker? It was really in response to all the outreaches for help and advice. Once I started writing, the words were flowing, and I had a long story to tell. It’s a mix of memoir and really practical, tangible advice. It tells the story of how I found my purpose in starting Schmidt’s, and then it goes deep into scaling my business and everything that happened from starting it in my kitchen to selling it to Unilever. People like that the advice is told in a way that is supported by stories. It really speaks to a wide audience, because the story spans so many years of business growth. There’s something in there for everybody.
Where ideas come to live.
Full Spectrum News | opb.org 1859_slogans-2020.indd 1
6/2/20 11:40 AM
my workspace
My Workspace
Sweet Success Bean-to-bar chocolate in the heart of Bend written by Beau Eastes photography by Toby Nolan
R.C. Gartrell, who co-owns Bend’s Seahorse Chocolate with his wife, Amanda Gartrell, is no stranger to the magical, mystical art of roasting. A former punk rock kid from Portland’s grittier past, Gartrell helped lead the Pacific Northwest’s coffee revolution in the late 1990s and early 2000s as Stumptown Coffee’s original roaster. He and Amanda launched Seahorse in 2017. Seahorse Chocolate calls their chocolates a bean-to-bar experience. Each Seahorse bar comes from a single farm—the Gartrells buy direct trade from cocoa growers in Honduras, the Dominican Republic, Fiji, Ecuador and Vietnam—and those beans are roasted, cracked, winnowed and conched into bars by R.C. in their Bend roastery. (Winnowing is the process of separating the cocoa beans’ husk and nibs, while conching is the act of grinding the nibs into a liquid.).
Cocoa beans and their flavor profiles are deeply affected by the climate and soil conditions in which they’re grown, as well as how they’re harvested and prepared. Similar to great wines and coffee, Seahorse bars made with the exact same recipe from the same farm and even the same crop can highlight nuances, depending on when the cocoa beans were picked. “It’s just like wine or coffee,” R.C. explained. “With coffee for example, you get three pickings a year. Each of those pickings are going to be a little different.”
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Initially, the couple couldn’t agree on a name and went back and forth on ideas for weeks. Inspiration struck when their youngest son, Rowan, was working on a school project about—you guessed it—seahorses. “They’re so cool, so interesting, so weird, what about Seahorse Chocolate?” Amanda and Rowan pitched to R.C. He loved the name—and the finality of the debate—and Seahorse Chocolate was born.
While you can find Seahorse bars at boutique candy shops and independent coffee shops around the state, there might not be a better chocolate experience in the Pacific Northwest than sampling product at their Bend roastery, which they share with micro coffee roaster Still Vibrato.
AT LEFT Bars of Seahorse Chocolate are ready for sale. ABOVE, FROM TOP R.C. and Amanda Gartrell, owners of Seahorse Chocolate, sit in front of sacks of single-origin cocoa beans used to create their chocolate bars. R.C. pulls beans directly from the roaster and gauges their readiness by their smell. Cocoa beans that have completed the roasting process are transferred to a bowl before being husked and ground.
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game changer
Attendees at a quarterly Say Hey event take a selfie together.
All In For Equality Partners in Diversity seeks to draw professionals of color to the Portland area—and keep them there written by Michelle Kehm YOU DON’T HAVE TO live in Los Angeles or New York to know that American demographics are changing. According to Mari Watanabe, the executive director of Portland-based Partners in Diversity, it’s in everybody’s—and every company’s— best interest to keep up. “As the demographics of the country shift, businesses have an opportunity to meet the demands of a more diverse customer base,” Watanabe said. “Likewise, as a company’s customer base becomes more diverse, so should its workforce.” Partners in Diversity is a nonprofit organization that helps companies recruit, support and retain professionals of color in both Oregon and Southwest Washington. For individuals of color, it’s also a lucrative lifeline to connect with others on both a personal and professional level. On the business side, Partners in Diversity offers a robust agenda of educational forums and events for regional CEOs, executives and professionals. This year, it plans to launch the first-ever NW Equity Summit in Portland on September 29. The event, if Oregon’s reopening allows, will feature speakers such as Dr. Robin DiAngelo, bestselling author of White Fragility: Why It’s So Hard for White People to Talk About Racism, and Cynthia Marshall, the first African-American female CEO in the NBA. 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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Attendees will also be able to participate in diversity-coaching seminars and workshops to discuss the challenges and successes they’ve encountered as they work to diversify their workplaces. On the worker’s side, Partners in Diversity is invested in helping professionals of color, especially those new to the area, connect with each other and find support. The organization’s signature Say Hey event is just one way they do this. “Think of Say Hey as a welcoming party for our newest professionals of color,” Watanabe said. “We introduce them to everyone and they can mingle with other professionals who look just like them. They can begin to find their community here. And maybe even a job.” Say Hey is held four times a year—next time likely in August—and it’s free and open to everyone. Last winter’s event at OMSI had more than 650 attendees and, according to Watanabe, the evening was a huge hit. “We couldn’t get people to leave,” she said. In addition to the quarterly Say Hey events, professionals can also attend Happy Hey Hours to stay in touch with their newfound community, and they can use Partners in Diversity’s job board to search for local employment opportunities. According to Watanabe, the overall goal is for individuals of color to find a job here—and a home. “Part of the challenge of retaining professionals of color, especially those who move here from out of state, lies in helping them find their peers so that they want to stay,” she said. “We want everyone to feel welcome here and see that Portland is a great place to live, work and play.” Considering Partners in Diversity is celebrating its fifteenth anniversary this year, clearly it’s here to stay—and doing something right. MORE ONLINE
To learn more about the nonprofit, go to www.partnersindiversity.org
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ROAD TRIP 12 days, tons of sights—get ready for the drive of a lifetime written by Sheila G. Miller
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AFTER BEING COOPED UP, HITTING THE OPEN ROAD CAN BE INVIGORATING. The past few months have been a trying time for all of us. But there’s no balm like the outdoors to soothe anxiety and give us a renewed sense of self. We spent some time trying to construct the ultimate Oregon road trip—that is, a twelve-day trip that takes you through the natural wonders of our state. From the dunes of the Oregon Coast to the jagged edges of the Wallowas, we tried to hit them all. For now, reopening our state to tourism is uncertain, so some of this may continue to be a pipe dream. But that doesn’t mean we can’t plan and dream—join us, won’t you?
Ge per t up c son los Ore al wit e and h g pas on’s v Centr Nat t at N olcan al ion al ewb ic (ph Monu erry oto m Hei : Stev ent. nric e hs)
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the f d is to Ben g poin ey. n ourn i t r sta epic j VA) O our oto: C (ph
DAY 1 Bend is in the center of the state, making for a perfect place to start and end the journey. It’s a city that has become something of a celebrity over the past decade or two, and so you’ll want to explore—a walk along the Deschutes River (if you swing past the Bend Whitewater Park you’ll likely spy surfers on the manmade wave) and a beer at one of the city’s dozens of breweries are a perfect locals’ way to enjoy the day. If it’s warm enough, you can float the river through town and end at Drake Park, then walk into downtown for some of the city’s excellent food—Barrio for a taco fix, Bos Taurus for a fancy steak, Zydeco Kitchen + Cocktails for everything, but especially the shrimp and grits starter. Mt. Bachelor is a short trip away, as are tons of mountain biking trails. If you didn’t throw a bike on the back of your car, no stress— bike shops like Pine Mountain Sports will get you kitted out. Finish your day with a sunset beer at Crux Fermentation Project, which offers happy hour in line with the time when the sun goes down. Then rest your head at the Oxford Hotel downtown, or camp nearby at Tumalo State Park. 56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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Steins Pillar, near Prineville, is part of Central Oregon’s outdoor beauty. (photo: Amanda Luelling)
DAY 2 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Smith Rock State Park is a rock-climbing mecca. Prineville is a western outpost with the coolest courthouse. Bend Whitewater Park has a manmade wave for surfing the river. (photos: COVA, COVA, Bend Park & Recreation District)
You’ll travel only a short distance today, but it’s for a doozy of a sight—Smith Rock State Park. Drive through Redmond in the morning and grab a liege waffle and a latte at Proust Coffee, then head north to Terrebonne, about forty minutes from Bend. Smith Rock is a mecca for rock climbers. If that’s you, bring your gear. If it’s not, know there are lots of hiking trails here, and if you’re prepared you’ll be able to hoof it up Misery Ridge for some epic views. Either way, you’ll want to spend some time checking out the incredible scenery—spires and rock faces jutting from the ground in a most dramatic fashion. When you’ve had enough, you can lunch at nearby Terrebonne Depot or head on to Prineville. Prineville offers a feeling of small-town Oregon that is easy to forget still exists, especially east of the Cascades. This city has arguably the prettiest county courthouse in Oregon, and across the street one of the great diners of all time—the Tastee Treet. Grab an ice cream cone, then explore the downtown. When it’s time to bed down, you can camp on public lands in the area, check in at the hip New Hotel Redmond or swing out to Brasada Ranch for a night of pampering. Warning: Brasada is so amazing that if you stay there, you may not want to continue this trip. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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DAY 3 You’re headed east today, to a place in Oregon that few visit—the Pillars of Rome, the Owyhee River and the Alvord Desert. It’s a long trip, but trust us when we say it’s worth it. Head southeast on Highway 20 to Burns, then down Highway 78. Make sure you check the weather before heading out onto the Alvord Desert—its cracked dry ground can turn to mud quickly when it rains, and you do not want to get stuck, because this is only Day 3! This dry lake bed runs about 12 miles and receives very little rain each year. It’s just east of Steens Mountain, which overlooks the dry landscape. This is prime Instagram territory, friends. Soak in the Alvord Hot Springs ($5) nearby, then head out onto the playa. Then you’ll want to get back on the road to see the Pillars of Rome, which is about one and a half hours north and east of the desert. Here, you’ll find 100-foot-high rock formations that reminded settlers of the ancient Italian city. It’s an incredible sight, and if you are a photographer, you’ll want to watch how the light hits the pillars. You can camp in this area, or you can keep going and check out the Owyhee Wild and Scenic River, which meanders through southeastern Oregon and into Idaho. Along the way, there are high canyon walls, hot springs and spires. There are plenty of secluded camping sites—pick your poison.
ert Des n ord Orego v l A l : The atypica (photo n o e. n is a dscap /Vertiz lan eyers phy) M ra Jim hotog P
The Pillars of Rome are a true sight to behold. (photo: Per-Ola Orvendal)
AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Paddlers on the Owyhee. Leslie Gulch is a must-see on the Owyhee. The Wallowas soar over the landscape. Hood River’s Fruit Loop is the spot for snacks. (photos: Jim Meyers, Jim Meyers, Marley Henderson, Austin Smith)
DAY 4 After this camping experience, you’ll be ready for some indulgence. You’ll have a long drive, but it’ll be worth it when you arrive in the northeastern edge of Oregon, in Joseph. En route, if you haven’t seen enough of the Owyhee River’s incredible beauty, set off for Leslie Gulch, Succor Creek State Natural Area and Lake Owyhee State Park. They’re not really on the way, but the region is remarkably beautiful, and you’re unlikely to make it out this way again anytime soon, right? Time to see another unreal Oregon sight before you head into the luxury of a small-town boutique hotel: Hells Canyon. You’ll hook up to I-95 north and it will take you to the canyon, which is the deepest river canyon in North America. It’s 8,000 feet down to the Snake River in its deepest places, and it’s basically Oregon’s Grand Canyon. From there, it’s less than two hours to Joseph. Get your pamper on at The Jennings Hotel. You’ve earned it.
DAY 5 Wake up to Joseph’s adorable downtown and its incredible Wallowa Mountains views. If you have a hankering for a hike, the wilderness here is very close to town and is easy to get into. Then you’ll want to head to Wallowa Lake State Park and to Vali’s Alpine Restaurant for a meal you won’t soon forget—we’re talking chicken and dumplings, paprikash, and if you plan ahead, doughnuts. Check with the restaurant on times before driving out there. When it’s time to hit the road, you’ll go west—it’s four and a half hours to Hood River, and on the way you’ll be treated first to endless farm fields, before those give way to the Columbia River Gorge and its windy, wonderful scenes. When you arrive in Hood River, you’ll be treated to vistas of the choppy Columbia River, colorfully dressed windsurfers riding the river. Depending on how long you plan to stick around, you can make a few stops on the Fruit Loop, grabbing some fresh fruit, jams and wine for your journey. Back in town, stroll along the river and grab some pizza for dinner at Solstice Wood Fire Cafe & Bar, and a beer at Double Mountain Brewery. Enjoy the beds and the history at the Historic Hood River Hotel. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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DAY 6 Once you’ve had your fill of Hood River (is it even possible?) and especially Broder Øst’s Nordic brunch, you’ve got a scenic drive ahead of you—you’re going to Portland. It’s not a long drive, but there are multiple places you’re going to want to stop to ooh and ahh, as well as detours that will give you the full Oregon experience. Timberline Lodge is about an hour south of Hood River, so if you’ve never seen this Platonic ideal of a lodge before, it’s definitely a detour worth making— plus you’ll get to enjoy the wonder of Mount Hood and its surrounds. If seeing the mountain from afar is enough for you, then head out on the Historic Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway. The road, which has reopened since the 2017 Eagle Creek Fire laid waste to the area, offers bendy curves, tons of waterfalls and epic views. The Vista House at the Crown Point State Scenic Corridor may be closed, but there are lots of other spots to grab a good view of the Gorge. When you’ve hiked to every waterfall you can find, hit the road for Portland, which is an hour or so away from Hood River. In Portland, there are hotels, restaurants and entertainment options galore. Revel in this big-city life for a day or two, because soon you’ll hit the road again. Vista House at Crown Point, if open, is a great spot to see the Gorge. (photo: Friends of Vista House)
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OP ll’s e MT FRO ’s Pow s a and alway rest l t r Po ks is p. Fo an Boo ed sto y’s urb s: to uir cit req is the e. (pho ce ru c k Par en spa land, B gre el Port egor) r v Tra MacG
DAY 7 Portland beckons for a day or more. For a perfect day there, we’d stay at Hotel Zags, which is centrally located in downtown Portland and has a gear shed of all kinds of useful items to improve your vacation. From there, it’s an easy trip up to Powell’s City of Books for some roadtrip reads, to Forest Park for a quiet and muddy hike, or across the river to the east side—where foodie dreams come true. Note: Because this is Portland, there are also dozens of incredible restaurants on the west side of the river as well. Get your meat fix at Ox or Olympia Provisions, some barbecue at Matt’s BBQ, upscale French at Le Pigeon, Russian at Kachka … we’re just skimming the surface. Create your own mini pub crawl with stops at Great Notion, Gigantic, Baerlic, Ecliptic, Little Beast … really, the world is your oyster here. If you’re road-tripped out, you could stay in Portland for the next few days and visit the Portland Art Museum and the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry if they have reopened, or wander some of the many outdoor options nearby.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Oregon Dunes National Scenic Area is mesmerizing. Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City has tidepools and views. Enjoy the kitsch of Seaside. Steller sea lions at the Sea Lion Caves never disappoint. (photos: Oregon’s Adventure Coast, Marley Henderson, Don Frank)
DAY 8 When big-city life begins to wear on you—onward, to the coast! Take the Sunset Highway all the way to the Pacific Ocean and find Cannon Beach, which offers iconic views and is only an hour and a half from Portland. Make it your home base as you explore the northern coast. Here you’ll find what is maybe Oregon’s mostphotographed natural wonder—Haystack Rock. But that’s really just the beginning of the wonders of the northern Oregon Coast. Swing up to Astoria for views and brews at Fort George Brewery, enjoy the kitsch (I’m talking bumper cars) of Seaside, or hike through the forests and along the sand—Ecola State Park is currently under an emergency closure, but lots of other areas remain open, including Oswald West State Park. Stretch your legs on miles of quiet coastline, then head back into Cannon Beach for a quality meal at The Bistro. Then gear up for another day of beautiful driving.
DAY 9 It’s time to head south, the Pacific Ocean to your right the entire way. The Pacific Coast Scenic Byway winds along the coast for the entire length of Oregon. Along the way, you’ll want to stop at Tillamook Creamery for a self-guided tour of cheesemaking (and free samples), peer into the tidepools at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City, and zoom past Lincoln City while checking out the kites flown on windy days. Grab a bowl of chowder at Gracie’s Sea Hag in Depoe Bay. Keep heading south and find the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport and the Sea Lion Caves outside Florence. If you’ve never seen (and smelled) Steller sea lions in the wild, this is a must. Then it’s on to the Oregon Dunes National Scenic Area, near Coos Bay, which offers stunning views of hilly sand dunes as far as the eye can see. It’s mesmerizing—get out on the dunes in a dune buggy or four-wheeler for an incredible experience. Then point your car toward Bandon and spend the night in luxury at Bandon Dunes Golf Resort. The views of the ocean are incredible, and if you’re a golfer, this is not a minute to be squandered. Get on these fairways. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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e is Lak nly ter Cra on’s o rk. g a Ore onal p erra i t nat o: Xan ion) t ct o e l h l p ( Co vel a r T
DAY 10 Our next stop is proof that culture can be very much alive in small towns. In a normal year, Ashland would be the spot for a Shakespeare infusion. This is no normal year, but Ashland is worth visiting even without the Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s draw. You’ll take Highway 42 east, then I-5 south to reach this charmer of a city about three hours away. If you’d like to spice up your drive a bit, check out the area’s excellent wineries. Tasting rooms abound along this route, from Kriselle Cellars in White City to DANCIN Vineyards outside Medford to Cliff Creek Cellars in Gold Hill. When you get to Ashland, settle in at one of our favorite hotels—either Ashland Springs Hotel in the heart of the city and walking distance to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s Angus Bowmer Theatre, or Ashland Hills Hotel, which sits glamorously at the edge of town. Wander Lithia Park and plan to return when you can sit in the round for “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” 62 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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FROM LEFT Ashland is worth visiting even if the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is cancelled this year. DANCIN Vineyards has views and wine worth checking out. (photos: T. Charles Erickson, DANCIN Vineyards)
Crater Lake
NATIONAL PARK IS THE UNITED STATES’ DEEPEST, & ARGUABLY BLUEST.
DAY 12
DAY 11 We may have saved the best for last. Just an hour and a half from Ashland is Oregon’s only national park. And what a special place it is. Crater Lake National Park is the United States’ deepest, and arguably bluest. Fed by snow and rainfall, the lake sits like a jewel in the middle of high cliffs, Wizard Island winking from the western side of the water. There’s plenty of terrain here to get out and get some fresh air. When the park has reopened, drive around the lake, depending on snow levels (the north entrance and West Rim Drive typically open in May or June, while the East Rim Drive can sometimes be covered in snow until late July). If snow levels remain high, snowshoe through the area. Two-hour boat cruises through the lake typically begin in July. There’s also just something soothing about grabbing a drink or lunch at Crater Lake Lodge and spending some time in the rocking chairs outside the lodge. Stay overnight at the lodge, or in a campground nearby.
All good things must come to an end. What better way to soften the blow than with the short drive from Crater Lake to Bend, with stops at Newberry National Monument and some beers to watch the sunset? The drive takes about two hours, but there’s plenty to do on the way into town. The Newberry National Monument has endless options— walk through lava fields, visit Paulina Falls, or hike through the Lava River Cave or Lava Cast Forest. All are easily accessed and perfect ways to get outdoors before returning to the real world. When it’s time to head back into Bend, do so gently, with dinner and a beer on the lawn at Bend Brewing Co., the Deschutes River moving slowly past you. Remember: adventure in Oregon is never really over.
A stop at Newberry National Monument eases you into the end of your road trip. (photo: Steve Heinrichs)
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Hot air balloon views of the Willamette Valley on an overcast early morning.
‘SENSATION
INCOMP A 64
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’ P ARABLE Flying with the female pilots of Vista Balloon Adventures written by Valerie Estelle Rogers
photographed by Gwen Shoemaker
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THE SUN
is beginning to peak over the horizon and darkness shifts from a silky ink to soft hints of pink light. A touch of dew is on the ground and a crispness in the air requires light jackets. The vans, each pulling a trailer, follow in line as though in a parade. One by one they spread out across the field, each holding hot air balloons ready to be unfurled and set up by volunteer crew. A group of pilots begins their checklist set-up routines. MAGIC AWAITS.
Hot air ballooning, often called the first form of human flight, dates back to 1783, when the Montgolfier brothers flew over Versailles, France. Around the same time, ballooning pioneer Jean-Pierre-François Blanchard died, leaving his wife, Sophie Blanchard, to take over the family ballooning business, thus earning her the title of the world’s first recognized female balloon pilot in 1804. Widespread interest surged at the turn of the century and the ballooning industry grew, with thousands of spectators inspired by novelty and curiosity. That interest faded until the 1960s, when a resurgence of interest grew due to modernizing modifications such as adding a stationary propane burner to the basket, as well as advancements in fabric, stitching and nautical design. Interestingly, however, the basket has stayed essentially the same as it was in the 1700s—a woven wicker rectangular basket, sometimes referred to as a gondola. Today, as in the past, hot air ballooning continues to be as unique and intriguing to the onlooker, the passengers and the pilots. 66 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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Vista Balloon Adventures in Newberg, operating since 1989, carries on the legacy of those first flights in the 1700s. Ashley Whittey and Pierre Campana-Jourda purchased Vista from original owners Roger and Catherine Anderson six seasons ago, and they recognize the relationship between past and present. Like the French, Vista has a traditional champagne toast upon completion of each flight, along with a social brunch. Continuing Sophie Blanchard’s legacy, half of Vista’s pilots are female, a far cry from the industry average of 15 percent. “Sensation incomparable” is how Blanchard described being in a hot air balloon so long ago. It’s the same for Vista’s female pilots—Kelly Haverkate, Cheryl Isaacs, Andrea McEvoy, Carmen Blakely and Kelly Dorius. With a combined total seventy years of experience, these five women make up a significant part of Vista Balloon Adventures’ team, both as full-time and on-call pilots. Flying a commercial hot air balloon is no easy feat. To fly passengers in a balloon you must have a Federal Aviation
Hot air balloon pilots, from left, Kelly Dorius, Kelly Haverkate and Andrea McEvoy before a morning departure.
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FROM LEFT Pilot Kelly Haverkate tests the burner before liftoff. Three members of the Vista Balloon Adventures fleet fly near the Willamette River.
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LEFT, FROM TOP Passengers, the ground crew and pilot arrive at the launch site to set up balloons. The scene changes quickly; unpacked balloons are inflated and inspected as they get ready for flight. CENTER, FROM TOP While in flight, Kelly Haverkate works the vent line to let out air. After landing, the balloon “envelope” is packed into the bag and tied up before loading it into the chase vehicle. The ground crew and passengers load the basket into the chase vehicle. FAR RIGHT Kelly Dorius helps with deflation and packing up ropes.
Administration-issued pilot’s license, also known as an airman’s certificate, just as you would for an airplane or any other aircraft. There are three steps to acquiring a pilot’s license. The first is to pass a written exam in these subjects: aviation law, navigation, meteorology, balloon systems and human performance. Following the written exam, you must pass an oral exam. Then you have to spend thirty-five hours in the air, including ten flights—two solo—and a controlled ascent to 3,000 feet and final approval from a designated FAA flight examiner. Carmen Blakely and Cheryl Isaacs have twenty-four and twenty years’ experience, respectively, and, at 73 and 65 years old, are the matriarchs of Vista Balloon Adventures’ female pilots. Blakely knew when she was 6 years old that she wanted to fly in a balloon, and once she did, she knew immediately she wanted to pilot one. As she grew older, the only place for a woman in aviation was as a flight attendant, so she became one—all the while still yearning for the freedom of flying an aircraft. Meanwhile, in the 1980s, Isaacs took her first ride in a hot air balloon and fell instantly in 70
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love with the beauty. So inspired, Blakey, Isaacs, and a third friend formed a study group and spent hours preparing for the tests and undergoing on-site training from Roger Anderson, then-owner of Vista. Decades later, they have each flown thousands of passengers, viewed many marriage proposals in the sky, and helped dreams come true. Haverkate first saw hot air balloons floating over East Burnside early on a Sunday morning in Portland. Inspired by the sight, she woke her then-young children early, packed the strollers into the car and headed out to watch the Rose Festival. She was intrigued by the “puzzle” involved in flying, maneuvering and landing. So inspired, Haverkate called a balloon company listed in the Yellow Pages and talked in great detail with the owner about how she might get involved. The owner suggested volunteering as a crew member would be a great start to understanding the world of hot air ballooning. Haverkate’s kids were little at the time, so she placed her dream on the shelf. Several years later, she moved west of Portland and caught glimpses of balloons floating over the morning sky. Again,
MOST FLIGHTS HAPPEN
at the break of dawn. … The ascent is silent, except for the sound of the propane flames pushing hot air into the balloon in small thrusts.
she picked up the phone, and one call later she was on the official volunteer crew list for Vista Balloon Adventures. To her great surprise, the man she’d spoken to all those years ago was Anderson, then-owner of the company. It wasn’t long before Haverkate was carrying her balloon flying handbook to her kids’ basketball, soccer, and T-ball games, preparing to take her pilot’s exam. Twenty-four years later, at age 59, she still loves solving the hot air balloon puzzle in the air each morning. McEvoy and Dorius are the next generation of pilots, carrying the propane torches forward. McEvoy had volunteered as a crew member for five years when she decided it was time to get her license. Inspired by Haverkate and Isaacs, McEvoy was soon training, flying and licensed to fly passengers. “I don’t think I’ll ever forget the butterflies and the sense of accomplishment after my first solo flight,” McEvoy said, now with five years under her belt as a pilot. Dorius, often on the field at the same time as McEvoy, is the newest female to the roster with just under three years as a pilot. A few years ago, after volunteering to crew for a
short while, Dorius was approached by Vista’s owners, who inquired if she would be interested in becoming a pilot. It took just three weeks before she was on her first training flight and two years to become officially licensed. At 31, Dorius said, this has definitely been one of her greatest life accomplishments. Most flights happen at the break of dawn, and depending on the time of the year, you may arrive at the launch site in the dark, which in turn will allow you to watch the sunrise just as you prepare to take off. The ascent is silent, except for the sound of the propane flames pushing hot air into the balloon in small thrusts. It is a rush to see the ground give way and to watch as the crew standing below becomes smaller and smaller. It’s at this time, you realize, you are at the treetops, and your brain has to reconcile that you are on the very top of the tree line, and yet you are continuing to go higher and higher and you are now sharing space with the birds. There is no sound of the wind, no sound of anything, just stillness. From Blanchard in 1804 to these five pilots in 2020, all have shared the “sensation incomparable” through hot air ballooning. Vista Balloon Adventures is busy fulfilling bucket-list dreams one at a time, and not always for the passengers—sometimes the pilot’s dreams come true too. Vista launches approximately 300 flights and 2,000 passengers each season. “Once you leave the ground, it is nothing like you expect,” Isaacs said. “The liftoff is gentle and the feeling of freedom just takes over. The beauty of all the fields, buildings, trees, everything, from an open basket is absolutely beautiful.” Everyone, Blakely agreed, should try it just once. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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Rich and Bonnie Smith, with their dog Gracie, hike along the Oregon Trail near Baker City.
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ON THE TRAIL written by Kevin Max Excerpted from David vs Goliath, by Lee Lewis Husk photography by Joni Kabana THIS IS WHAT the Oregon Trail looks like now. If Idaho Power and PacifiCorp have their way, it will look very different. An estimated 80,000 early pioneers arrived in Oregon on the Oregon Trail, passing over the American West and etching their journey in miles of wagon wheel ruts. These ruts stand witness to an historic and epic journey, the evidence still visible almost two centuries later. A proposed high-voltage power line by two privately owned entities—Idaho Power and PacifiCorp plus the Bonneville Power Administration—would run 300 miles from Boardman, Oregon, to Hemingway, Idaho, giving it the moniker B2H. This overhead power transmission line is built over landmarks in Oregon to provide power mostly to Boise. In the process, B2H is siting these towers and lines across sensitive wildlife habitat and beautiful open views along the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center. How will Oregon benefit? B2H itemizes several private or fleeting benefits, but after construction is over, the Oregon Trail may feel more like the Boise Transmission Trail, as a national historic treasure will sit beneath privately owned power lines for the benefit of Boise residents. LEARN MORE
You can find Lee Lewis Husk’s piece on B2H, which appeared in our Sept/Oct 2019 issue, at www.1859oregonmagazine.com. Go to www.boardmantohemingway.com to see what this may look like if the B2H project passes Oregon state approval. Get involved with nonprofit www.StopB2H.org. To voice your opinion, email Oregon Department of Energy senior siting analyst Kellen Tardaewether, kellen.tardaewether@oregon.gov, or call direct 503.373.0214.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Part of the Oregon Trail, near Baker City. The National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center. Visitors walk along part of the trail. Devan Wood takes a stroll along the Oregon Trail to look at historical artifacts from the trail days. Old homesteads, such as this one in Sparta, still stand along the Oregon Trail.
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Wildlife is in abundance along the Oregon Trail.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Wallowa Mountains glow in the distance from the standpoint of the Oregon Trail. Pristine mountains and forests along the Oregon Trail near Baker City. Wildlife near the trail. Ranches, such as this one in Durkee, operate nearby.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 82 ADVENTURE 84 LODGING 86 TRIP PLANNER 88
pg. 88 The Pendleton Round-Up includes the grand tribal village and Native American dancing and pageants.
Mikal + B Photography
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travel spotlight
Pearl Triumvirate These three museums share the past to ensure the future THREE SMALL MUSEUMS within walking distance—each with an educator’s eye toward civil discourse and justice—make up a culturally, historically and visually rich day in Portland’s Pearl District. The Oregon Jewish Museum and Center for Holocaust Education explores Jewish Oregonians’ more than 165 years of experience, history and culture in and contributions to their state. The museum challenges visitors to its permanent and special exhibits to resist indifference and discrimination wherever it arises. The Japanese American Museum of Oregon and the Japanese American Historical Plaza are the only vestiges of Portland’s once-large and vibrant Japantown, before WWII-era regulations forced the community’s removal and incarceration. Filled with documents, photographs and artifacts, the institution is the region’s leading cultural and research center for Japanese Americans’ history. The newest of the triumvirate is the Portland Chinatown Museum that, through contemporary art and history, teaches about all Asian Americans. Lynn Fuchigami Park of the Japanese American Museum of Oregon summed up these museums’ common foundation: “The mistakes of the past must never be repeated,” she said. “We share the past to ensure the future.”
Oregon Jewish Museum and Center for Holocaust Education
written by Jenn Director Knudsen
Visitors view an exhibit at the Oregon Jewish Museum.
STAY CONNECTED. STAY CURIOUS.
Image: John Lund
mnch.uoregon.edu
Public talks, family fun, and much more Join us online for museum adventures that inspire wonder about our world.
everyone needs a beach town
A place to relax, recreate, or contemplate. Ideally with a side of beer-battered fish and a locally brewed pint. Seaside is just such a place. Bursting with space and great sights to see, miles of sandy beaches and a grand promenade to stroll. So why not come and Seaside for yourself?
seasideOR.com
adventure
Rafting the Owyhee River Travel through time in a land of legends written and photographed by Adam Thorn Smith
OUTDOORSY PORTLANDERS LOVE to say “every environment is an hour away!” But, what if we went farther? What if we went … all the way? There is a place in our state—an inexplicable convolution of time and rock—where a river spills like mercury through the heart of an ancient supervolcano. Hot springs still steam with hidden heat. Relics lie lost in caves. Legends are born and die here, some never told. Oregon’s loneliest corner and most remote region, the extreme southeast, is seven hours and 400 miles from Portland. To most imaginations, southern Malheur County must be a bland expanse of tumbleweed and juniper, the rare hare or coyote, somewhere past Steens Mountain. In truth, earth-bending natural wonders and geologic monoliths abound. People who venture here, by luck or lack thereof, are as unusual as the place itself.
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Sixteen million years ago, the Yellowstone hotspot was here, erupting endlessly. Massive upwellings of ash and magma built the bedrock—each layer recording its composition like tree rings—now exposed to modern science in the canyon cliffs and eroding silt stacks that tower around every turn. Add eons of tectonics, volcanism, inland seas, ice ages, earthquakes, floods and landslides, and you have an ever-changing world of rock so twisted and complex it often hides its own history. Through these formations, the Owyhee River runs—a highly coveted journey in the diaries of whitewater enthusiasts. And naturalists. And historians. And Oregonians. I was thrilled. It was early April. Nevada and Idaho snowmelt made the river bulge to requisite rafting levels—a brief window each spring—for the 65-mile trip, from the put-in at Rome to Leslie Gulch. Seated backward on the bow, camera in hand, I marveled at the pale pillar-like precipices—the same chalky columns that reminded settlers of the Colosseum, inspiring the town’s name—as we slowly floated by. I was traveling with Oregon River Experiences, a professional outfitter for four decades, on its first Owyhee trip of 2019. Day one, midway, our rubber fleet eddied out on a sandy beach. The eight of us disembarked the six boats—
adventure
FAR LEFT Oregon’s own “Devil’s Tower” looms downriver. ABOVE, FROM TOP The group breaks for lunch on the first day of the trip. Exploring a slot canyon. For many years, unique formations served as landmarks and were often sacred to tribes such as the Shoshone and Bannock.
four oared gear rafts, a cataraft and inflatable kayak. We took our first steps inside Owyhee Canyon, with five exhilarating days of rapids, hikes and hot springs ahead. Turning slowly, we gawked at the rock walls, booties sloshing but warm in our wetsuits, and loosened our personal floatation devices. Six million years of geology began here, passing at 100,000 years per river mile. “Lunch time!” called out Ted Browning, ORE’s senior guide. In a blink, he and the crew readied a tabletop spread of turkey wraps, veggies, chips and cookies. MORE ONLINE
As we ate, I asked the older couple—fellow Owyhee rookies—why they chose this expedition. “We’ve been dreaming of an Owyhee trip for decades,” they said, raising my interest. I soon learned they were whitewater masters, with a hundred river runs for every wrinkle. “We could’ve outfitted ourselves, but it’s so remote, we decided to go commercial. Plus, we’re old,” they said, justifying the luxury. The other party members included three younger guides and a company friend, each as interesting as the next. Throughout history, humans here are few and far between, often as mysterious as the landscape. Since time immemorial, nomadic Paiute Indians lived here, leaving behind prehistoric art, arrowheads and artifacts. In 1820, three scouts for the Northwest Fur Company were mysteriously murdered here. They were from Hawaii, and their demise dubbed the river, as originally spelled. Sacagawea’s son, Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau, an infant with Lewis & Clark in 1805, returned sixty years later only to perish from pneumonia after crossing the frigid Owyhee. He was among hordes of fortune hunters who came for gold and silver in the 1860s. Eventually, newcomers and natives clashed in the Snake War, 1864 to1868, leaving hundreds dead or sent to reservations. As mines went dry, cattle ranchers replaced prospectors, including Basque sheepherders from northern Spain whose imprint is still visible in the pelota courts of nearby Jordan Valley. And with livestock came the rustlers— gunslinging outlaws with camps and corrals cleverly hidden in the sagebrush and wheatgrass gullies—who knew every secret spring, cavern, and river ford in “Oregon’s Grand Canyon.” We floated on, oars churning the turbid water, reading the water ahead. Each day we bashed big waves too, sections such as Bullseye, Squeeze, and Whistling Bird—exciting Class III-IV rapids. Midday, we stopped for land adventures: searching the sediment slots of Lambert Rocks, finding a rustler’s hideout in Iron Point, pondering a boulder field of Stone Age petroglyphs, and always scanning for bighorn, antelope, bobcat or cougar. Then, we’d paddle on, until the next campsite appeared under marvelous new walls. Afternoons, we might hike a ridge, explore a cave, listen for meadowlarks on a wildflower walk, or just unfold a chair with a pair of binoculars, a good book or banjo. At dusk, we enjoyed delicious hot dinners, desserts and drinks around a flickering fire, telling stories and stargazing. At dawn, the feast would repeat, with coffee and breakfast before another glorious day of whitewater rafting. Late one night, just before moonrise, I slipped from camp and eased into a thermal pool, laying back to look at the stars, waiting for the lunar beams to dance with the ancient rock— above my misty bath, by a river, in a volcano. Once risen, the full moon looked like a marble rolling down the clifftop. As I soaked, I tried to soak it all in, because nowhere else in Oregon, or on Earth, is the world quite like this.
Owyhee trips are available April through May, advance reservation required. For more information, visit Oregon River Experiences at www.oregonriver.com
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Each of the custom-designed Airstreams sleep up to four, and have stylish kitchenettes and skylightbrightened private bathrooms stocked with Beekman 1802 soaps, shampoos and lotions. All cabins— including the two-person Kamp Haus cabins, fourperson Drift cabins, and tiny-home-esque Dune cabins, which can accommodate up to six guests thanks to double twin bed-endowed lofts and fold-down dinettes—are fully furnished, with sleek modern bathrooms and roomy patios perfect for early morning coffee-sipping with a bay view. RVers have their choice of pull-through, pull-in or back-in sites, all with full electrical, water, sewer and cable hookups.
Photos: Bay Point Landing
ROOMS
FEATURES You’ll not want for creature comforts here; the heated indoor saltwater pool stocks stacks of fresh towels, the fitness center boasts a Peloton bike, the cushy lounger-lined activity room encourages both peaceful paperback perusal and heated games of shuffleboard, and the general store won’t let you run out of Smith Teamaker tea, Jacobsen salt or pickle relish. Cozy up in your cabin for two, caravan with friends, or bring the entire family—all three generations—the event center and posh picnic pavilion can be reserved for groups of up to fifty.
DINING If going the dine-in route, bring your own foodstuffs and plan on a grilled steak/seitan supper followed by fire pit s’mores and an alfresco nightcap. Cooking isn’t on your getaway to-do list? Mosey over to downtown Coos Bay and breakfast on banana, cashew and tahini-topped Birdie Bowls washed down with fresh ginger and turmeric-spiked Coco Zinger smoothies at bright little Noster Kitchen. For lunch, dig into bowls of from-scratch clam chowder and baskets of Coos Bay butter clams at darling dockside Fisherman’s Seafood Kitchen (come with your cooler if you plan on shopping the wild-caught seafood case). And after a day of coastal exploring, join the locals at eclectic Front Street Provisioners for seasonal salads crafted with local produce, wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas and Oregon IPAs and pinots aplenty from the on-site bottle shop.
AMENITIES Airstream trailers and cabins alike claim wellequipped kitchenettes with sinks, stovetops and refrigerators, dishware, essential cooking equipment (i.e., pots, pans and a wine opener), and a microwave, coffee maker and toaster. And whether you’re on four wheels or have four walls, enjoy free cable TV and high-speed Wi-Fi, access to brandnew bathroom and laundry facilities (no quarters required, the machines take credit cards), and your own personal stone fire pit and picnic table (grills available upon request).
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Bay Point Landing in Coos Bay is a glamping resort. An event center and pavilion allow groups to gather. Cabins are small but styish. The cabins look akin to a tiny home.
Bay Point Landing written by Jen Stevenson THE DAYS LENGTHEN and summer is here—it’s time to start planning road trip routes. What better destination than Oregon’s wildly scenic south coast, now home to one of the state’s most promising glamping destinations, Bay Point Landing? It’s a blend of nature, modern architecture and luxe amenities designed to delight all sides of the camping spectrum. Whatever sort of nomad you may be, this contemporary 103-acre camping resort has a cozy nest to match. Shiny silver Airstreams beckon to those obsessed with America’s bygone travel trailer era, bayfront cabins let you greet the day with a water view and wildlife watching and there are more than 160 RV sites that don’t skimp on the hookups, cable TV included. Get to know your new neighbors in the communal Clubhouse, a design-forward collection of four modernist structures housing a heated indoor swimming pool, general store, kids den, and fitness, activity and event centers, all with soaring wood-beamed ceilings, banks of windows to let in the coastal light, cool concrete floors and stylishly minimalist décor. Step out onto the wraparound terrace and survey the resort’s mile of private bayfront beach, or take a stroll along one of the winding walking trails. Since no luxe camping trip is complete without a s’mores swan song, pick up a 1927 S’mores Company kit at the resort’s general store and sip a glass of L’Angolo pinot noir by the fire, before letting the low rumble of the Pacific Ocean lull you to sleep—after all, you have to be up early tomorrow if you want to be the first in the pool. 92443 CAPE ARAGO HWY COOS BAY www.baypointlanding.com
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Let Pendleton Buck
This Eastern Oregon town oozes authenticity, and Western traditions written by Kevin Max
Mikal + B Photography
THE 110-YEAR-OLD Pendleton Round-Up is known as one of the oldest and most storied rodeos in America. This cowboy-dominated Let ‘er Buck spectacle is held on the second weekend of September, when it was most convenient for local grain farmers and livestock ranchers. Arguably its most historical moment comes from Waaya-Tonah-Toesits-Kahn, a Native American from the Wallowa band of the Nez Perce tribe, who, in rodeo circles, was also known as Jackson Sundown. Sundown had reportedly grown up in Montana and, at age 14, fought alongside Chief Joseph in the Nez Perce War of 1877. He and a small group of other injured fighters escaped to Canada, where, they met up with Sitting Bull, then a war criminal after defeating General George Custer and the US Cavalry at the Battle of Little Bighorn. Sundown eventually came back to the States and resumed livestock breeding, breaking horses and competing in rodeos for extra money. So dominant was he that cowboys would not bother entering rodeos if Sundown was on the list. To attract other riders, rodeo organizers would pay Sundown $50 to ride in an honorary category to not compete against other bull and bronc riders. In 1916, a year after Sundown had retired from rodeo, principals of the Pendleton Round-Up managed to talk him into one last ride for the world championship title. At 53, Sundown was twice as old as his competitors. Even so, they must have known they didn’t stand a chance. “The very ground of the arena seemed to shake with the earth-shaking leaps of the outlaw bronc. Sundown rode gloriously into the championship amid ovation never before equaled,” The Lewiston (Idaho) Tribune quoted the secretary of the Pendleton Round-Up Association in 1961. AT LEFT The Pendleton Round-Up is this city’s crown jewel.
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trip planner
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Day CULTURE • ART • COCKTAILS Hit the rodeo, but let your culture buck, too. As small as Pendleton is, it has a vibrant cultural scene if you know where to look. 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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Wildhorse Resort & Casino
The Pendleton Round-Up can be done in many ways, including as a two-day main event outing in which you hit the highlights, or a three-day span where you do the Pendleton Round-Up main events plus some of the region’s cultural accouterments. The Round-Up stadium is one of the few all-grass rodeo infields in the pro rodeo circuit, which makes it a favorite of bronc and bull riders who otherwise get bucked onto hard dirt surfaces. This experience, this rodeo, is like none other. Downtown Pendleton, too, has its historic charm. Many of the buildings on Main Street have withstood time’s test and appear as they did near the turn of the century. For custom goods, there may be no place more authentic in Oregon. Pendleton Hat Company hat maker, Perk Perkins, sells handmade beaver and rabbit hats. Or bring in your old hats for a steaming and reshaping. The home of the Round-Up is also a natural fit for the beautiful custom saddles of Severe Brothers Saddlery. For decades, the brothers have plied their trade, making a name for themselves and a place in the Smithsonian. Duff Severe in 1982 was admitted into the Smithsonian Institute as a master traditional artist. While you may not commit to a custom saddle, you can’t leave Pendleton without a handmade pair of boots. Richard Stapleman of Stapleman’s Custom Boot Shop is the ultimate craftsman, finishing about one and a half pairs of boots per week. His boot prices begin at around $800. Hamley & Co. is a staple of history and Western wear in Pendleton. The Hamley building dates to 1905 and is an old brick dreamscape of Western wear, as the legacy of the saddle maker, J.J. Hamley. Pendleton Woolen Mills is local legacy unto itself. The 150-yearold regional wool industry gave rise to the foremost wool blanket and apparel company in the United States. On the east side of town, hit the Pendleton Woolen Mills retail shop for a lasting and warming keepsake. For food and drink, there are authentic and custom options, too. Oregon Grain Growers Brand is a local grain co-op with a downtown distillery that opened November 2016. ACME Whiskey is made with Oregon grain and from the pristine water of the Blue Mountains just east of Pendleton. The distillery is also an eatery built around wood-fired pizza, with dough made from local grains.
Pendleton Center for the Arts
ROUND-UP • DOWNTOWN • DISTILLERY
The Underground Tour is a fun way for the whole family to learn about Pendleton’s nefarious past that touches on moonshine, prostitution and Chinese immigrants. The tour meets downtown and takes you on a two-hour walking trip back in time within the distance of a few blocks. The Tamastslikt Cultural Institute has the distinction of being the only museum of the Oregon Trail that tells the story of Manifest Destiny from a tribal point of view. It’s truly a treasure, with exhibits from the history of a people whose name means “interpreter” to relevant modern dialogue through exhibits such as The History of Walls: The Borders We Build and Fake News. Pendleton Center for the Arts is another way to connect locally. The craft gallery has local jewelry, paintings and pottery. Its exhibits are surprisingly worldly for such a small venue. Exhibits from the Jordan Schnitzer Collection and other traveling
PENDLETON, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Oregon Grain Growers Brand Distillery www.oregongrain.com Virgil’s at Cimmiyotti’s www.virgilsatcimmiyottis.com Sorbenots www.sorbenots.com Roosters www.roostersdining.com
STAY Wildhorse Resort & Casino www.wildhorseresort.com
PLAY
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Pendleton Center for the Arts has exhibits and a local craft gallery. Pendleton Woolen Mills is a local legacy. Tour the city’s shady past with an Underground Tour. Play a round at Wildhorse Golf Club.
Pendleton Round-Up www.pendletonroundup.com Pendleton Center for the Arts www.pendletonarts.org McKay Creek National Wildlife Refuge www.fws.gov/refuge/ mckay_creek The Wildhorse Golf Club www.wildhorseresort.com The Tamastslikt Cultural Institute www.tamastslikt.org
Pendleton Woolen Mills
Don Bracker
Pendleton Underground Tours www.pendletonunderground tours.org
shows are a great way to see big works of art in an intimate and free setting. For dinner, Virgil’s at Cimmiyotti’s is a must. You don’t mind waiting because the lounge is a cool place for conversation and a cocktail. On the menu are sea diver scallops, oysters and filet mignon. The food and service are outstanding here.
You know what you and your crew are going to gravitate toward—golf or a wildlife refuge. There are no wrong answers here. The Wildhorse Golf Club at Wildhorse Resort & Casino is open to the public and is a beautiful course that sits in the shadow of the Blue Mountains. Voted one of the best casino courses by Golf Digest, Wildhorse plays four sets of tees and ranges from 4,996 to 7,112 yards. Grab a burger and a local beer from the sports bar after. You may have better luck with birdies at McKay Creek NaDay tional Wildlife Refuge, home to ospreys, bald eagles, yellow BREAKFAST • GOLF • WILDLIFE warblers and sparrows. Hiking, fishing and wildlife observation are all game at this spectacular area just 6 miles south Grab a coffee at Sorbenots or a proper breakfast at Roost- of Pendleton. One of the few things that President Calvin ers for a hand-crafted chicken fried steak or pot roast hash— Coolidge did right, his administration set aside 1,837 acres house-roasted pot roast with onions and fresh-made hash to create McKay Creek as a refuge for migratory birds. Let browns in au jus, served with two eggs. ‘er cluck! JULY | AUGUST 2020
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northwest destination
Northwest Destination
California Dreamin’ All the glories of wine country are on display in Napa Valley written by Sheila G. Miller
Visit Napa Valley
YOU KNOW NAPA VALLEY. Or at least, you think you do. There are plenty of movies that conjure a weekend of wine and effortless sundresses and perfect summer weather. Here’s the deal: it’s all real. The region is beautiful—perfect for a long weekend or a day stop on your way elsewhere. No matter how long you have to give to Napa Valley, it will give back with incredible wine, fantastic restaurants and indulgent hotels. First, plan to stay at Carneros Resort & Spa, a luxe oasis in an area well known for already being luxurious. Pick from private cottages and homes on site, then see all this resort has to offer, from the 3,000-square-foot fitness area to the pools (adults only and family options) to the spa, which features a treatment involving oils, LED lights and massage to ease your sore muscles. The resort also has three excellent restaurants on site, including FARM—a must-try for farm-to-table fare—and the Boon Fly Cafe for a more laidback vibe. Once you’ve got your home base, it’s time to choose which wineries to visit. Remember to arrange for a safe driving plan, and that four or five wineries will easily fill your day. You’ll want time to explore and relax.
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Domaine Carneros is a château perfect for a bubbles tasting.
NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
northwest destination
EAT Thomas Keller restaurants www.thomaskeller.com Bistro Don Giovanni www.bistrodongiovanni.com Morimoto Napa www.morimotonapa.com Oxbow Public Market www.oxbowpublicmarket.com
STAY Carneros Resort & Spa www.carnerosresort.com Wine Country Inn www.winecountryinn.com Archer Hotel www.archerhotel.com
PLAY Domaine Carneros www.domainecarneros.com
Morimoto Napa
Napa Valley Paddle
Beringer tours www.beringer.com/visit/tours Hiking www.napaoutdoors.org Paddle Napa River www.napavalleypaddle.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Stags’ Leap’s tasting room looks like a castle. Cakebread Cellars is a popular destination. Morimoto Napa is a famous tourist attraction. Paddling is an option through Napa Valley Paddle. Stay at Carneros Resort & Spa, a spectacular outpost.
Our picks? Never miss a chance to get the bubbles going at Domaine Carneros, a gorgeous chateau overlooking the valley, with flights of sparkling wine that will have you coming back at every opportunity. If you need more sparkling wine after that stop, try Domaine Chandon, which is low key but serves up flights of top-notch bubbles. You can go big—Beringer has a tremendous series of tours that will help you understand how wine grapes are grown and harvested, while Mondavi is an absolute must-visit. Or you can go small—Cakebread Cellars and Far Niente are longtime favorites but available only by appointment, while Silver Oak and Stags’ Leap offer laid-back, intimate tastings. Whatever you choose, don’t miss a stroll through downtown Napa, which has added some new tasting rooms. Try Alpha Omega Collective, Mayacamas Downtown or the new WALT tasting room. First Street Napa is a growing shopping destination with a combination of national brands and local shops. If all the wine and food leaves you searching for an outdoor activity, you’re in luck—this area has tons of outdoor
opportunities. Napa Valley Bike Tours will combine a ride with some tastings, the region has a variety of hiking trails, and the Napa River is ripe for a trip. Napa Valley Paddle can get you safely out on the water and guide you through downtown Napa and the Oxbow Preserve, or on a longer trip. When it’s time for lunch or dinner, there are options, from the traditional to the sublime. Thomas Keller has four restaurants in Yountville—The French Laundry, his most famous, as well as Bouchon Bistro (French), Ad Hoc + Addendum (family-style comfort food) and La Calenda (Mexican). You can’t go wrong with any of them. For a local’s favorite in Napa, check out Bistro Don Giovanni. This staple has been serving up Italian fare for years. Tourists flock to Morimoto Napa, the famous Japanese restaurant’s first West Coast flagship, with gorgeous sushi and steaks. And make sure to find time for the Oxbow Public Market, a community gathering spot for excellent food. You can grab an ice cream cone, a cup of coffee, or an entire meal here, then get a little shopping done as well. JULY | AUGUST 2020
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Klamath Falls
Ashland
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
20 Wild Ride Brewing
42 The Dyrt
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Portland Chinatown Museum
21 The Winchester Inn
46 Sheep Ranch golf course
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Owyhee River
22 Sweet Wife Baking
48 Color investment portfolio
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Bay Point Landing
23 Asiatico Asian Kitchen
50 Seahorse Chocolate
88
Pendleton Round-Up
24 Oregon Coast Wasabi
52 Partners in Diversity
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Napa Valley, California
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Until Next Time
Poisoned Bones written by Nathaniel Dunaway | illustration by Allison Bye
THERE’S AN OLD gravel pit about a mile outside the town of Spray, in Wheeler County. It’s out past the cemetery, where today my grandparents’ shared headstone basks under the Eastern Oregon sun. But when this happened, one summer seventeen or eighteen years ago, both of them were still alive, and I was somewhere shy of 10 years old. Grandpa still drove back then, and the two of us were in his Chevy, kicking up some hot July dust on the gravel road that finally comes to a dead end at the gravel pit. The windows were down and grandpa’s three-fingered right hand, scarred and mangled from a childhood accident, rested on the gearshift. Behind us, in the bed of the pickup, was a scoped Remington 788. We were going shooting. According to the tale grandpa often told me, the gravel pit was where a man had once been struck by lightning while riding his horse. The man and the horse were both killed instantly. This gave the pit an air of reverence for me, not out of respect for the dead, but out of respect for the legend. A story lived in this place, and as a child this was important to me. As a fact-finding adult, I’ve attempted several times to find a single news article corroborating this event. I’ve yet to find an obituary for anyone killed by lightning anywhere near Spray, let alone while riding a horse. I’ve decided the story of the lighting-struck rider, like many of grandpa’s tall tales, is immune to Google. The truth of a story, I believe, lies most reliably in its telling. I watched as grandpa methodically placed a line of beer cans at one end of the pit. The cans were Hamm’s, which, aside from two cups of coffee in the morning, was all I ever saw the old-timer drink. I poured coffee for him, retrieved tall boy cans from the fridge for him, even went to the store to buy beer for him (the market was a two-minute walk from my grandparents’ house, and the owner knew the beer wasn’t for me. “That’s Mary and D.L.’s grandson,” she’d say. “Go ahead and sell it to him.”), but I don’t remember my grandpa ever once asking me to fetch him a glass of water. While he was arranging the Hamm’s cans, something caught my eye—a bright white pile in the distance. I made my way toward it, stepping on spent shotgun shells and bullet casings as I went, passing the various homemade targets the residents of Spray had 96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST
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brought to the pit over the years to shoot at and pass the time. Tires and microwaves and couch cushions and one rusty car door, mangled by buckshot until it looked like a slice of Swiss cheese. The white pile turned out to be a collection of animal bones. I could make out part of a jaw, the length of a leg and hinge of a knee, the blocky white snake that was the spinal column. Some of the bones still had fur and gristle attached to them. I crouched down and picked up one of the bones, turning it over in my hand, wondering what kind of animal it belonged to, feeling like a paleontologist making a new discovery. “Don’t put your fingers in your mouth after you touch that,” my grandpa said behind me. I dropped the bone and tried to pretend he hadn’t startled me. “Why?” I said. “Probably poisoned.” He pronounced it “pie-zenned,” the way Italian became “eye-talian” in his mouth. “It died from poison?” I asked. “No, it’s probably roadkill. Looks like a doe. Folks put poison on the bones to try and kill coyotes and wolves.” “Why?” “Because they’re predators,” he said, and left it at that. He stroked his beard with his three-fingered hand and I thought about the bones that had once been in there but were long gone. “C’mon, Buckskin,” he said to me, “the wind’ll knock them cans down before we get a chance to.” He turned and walked back toward the pickup. I brushed my hands off on my pants and stuck them in my pockets to keep from touching my face, believing unreservedly in grandpa’s warning. I started to follow him, then turned and looked at the pile again, thinking to myself that the bones looked bigger than those of a doe, or even an elk. To me, then and now, they looked more like a horse’s bones.
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FROM THE GREEN
“AS YOU WALK DOWN THE FAIRWAY OF LIFE, YOU MUST SMELL THE ROSES, FOR YOU ONLY GET TO PLAY ONE ROUND.” —Ben Hogan
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THE BEAUTY OF WALKING GOLF COURSES AND PLAYING FOR YOURSELF WRITTEN BY KEVIN GIFFIN
OVID-19 HAS GIVEN us a chance to reflect and reset our lives. We’ve discovered that we have more time to experience things that are solitary and remote—ourselves. This is no consolation prize, of course, for the tragedy unfolding before us. Nonetheless, we’ve come to an inflection point in culture and personal habits. Have I been eating right? Have I been overeating? Drinking too much? Is this a good chance to catch up on the classics of literature? Am I getting enough exercise? Playing a round of eighteen holes stands out as one form of recreation that COVID-19 didn’t completely disrupt. Courses have their own restrictions around the number in the party and have kept most of their communal facilities out of bounds. Some courses even went so far as to install no-touch golf ball retrieval elevators in cups. They are operated by a golfer using his putter to pull up on a hook that is attached to a false floor in the cup.
The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch is about as remote as you can get. (photo: Silvies Valley Ranch)
Cover: Sheep Ranch at Bandon Dunes Golf Resort (photo: Bandon Dunes Golf Resort)
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FROM THE GREEN
AFTER ALL, GOLF BEGAN AS A WALKING SPORT AND PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE STAYED THAT WAY.
Hit the links at one of Oregon’s classic courses—Salishan. (photo: Salishan Coastal Lodge)
Because golf is largely an individual mental pursuit that can be played solo just as easily as part of a foursome, many courses remained open throughout the lockdown, providing some relief and a good walk to those who kept their games sharp over the spring months.
A WALK THROUGH HISTORY After all, golf began as a walking sport and probably should have stayed that way. A game of leisure that may have begun as a startup in Scotland in 1547, it was immediately banned because it distracted from military training and falconry—two pursuits James II found useful in Scotland’s posture against the army of England’s Henry VI. Golf itself remained on lockdown
3 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2020
for forty-five years until Scotland and England signed the Treaty of Glasgow in 1502. It didn’t take long for the successor, young James IV, then the king of Scotland, to break free of the golf quarantine and resume royal spending with the first recorded purchase of a set of golf clubs, fashioned by a bow maker. Golfing ensued, and did very well for centuries without the need to drive between strokes. By walking courses, golfers’ conversations had a chance to flourish after the requisite spate of cussing that followed a preponderance of shots. A course walked could reasonably fall in the category of recreation. Eventually carts entered the scene and eliminated almost all of the recreational aspect of the game. Driving a golf cart between shots preempted time between cursed shots and foul language, interspersed
by battery-powered road rage. Driving a golf cart for a round of golf became a disruption of civility, a solution without a problem. Now that we’ve all had some time to reflect on our values and laugh at what we’ve let creep into our culture, it’s time to return to the beautiful act of walking a course as a solo pursuit, to remake golf as recreation. The exercise alone is worth noting. Walking an eighteen-hole course is the equivalent of walking 4 miles and burning 800 to 900 calories, according to a study from Harvard Medical School. If you were to ratchet that up to twice per week, you’d hit a minimum standard for weekly adult exercise. There are few forms of recreation and sport that are naturally resistant to COVID-19. Golf is one. It is best when played outside, doesn’t
FROM THE GREEN
Alderbrook Golf Club (photo: Alderbrook Golf Club)
call for hand-to-hand combat as in football and soccer and has no shared objects such as Ultimate Frisbee and tennis and can be played by oneself. Aside from hiking, few forms of recreation offer such beauty in the Pacific Northwest as golf.
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FROM TOP Get outside at Tetherow’s Scottish-style links in Oregon’s high desert. Wine Valley Golf Club in Walla Walla combines beauty with the reward of world-class wines at the nineteenth hole.
A GAME OF BEAUTY Think of the courses whose features are at their best when contemplated on foot and without the constant interruption of others. Imagine walking along the shore of the Oregon Coast, though you’re a hundred feet above the blue-grey churning sea, walking along cliffs lined with neon yellow gorse, acres of rolling shades of green muted and brightened by the passing billows of white clouds. This is walking Bandon Dunes’ Scottish linksstyle course in Bandon, Oregon. Imagine teeing off along the banks of the Puget Sound along a green fairway with a snow-covered Mount Rainier rising head and shoulders directly in front of you. You watch your ball sail off the tee and into a sea of white, losing it in the snowy backdrop only to see it fall seconds later back into the green fairway. This is walking The Home Course in DuPont, Washington. Imagine walking in the shadows of towering pines and into a layered Impressionist painting, with a stand of lower green pines in the foreground then receding to darker, undulating foothills of pines, and a black and white eruption of the snow-capped Olympic Range towering in the distance. This is walking Alderbrook
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(photo: Jonathan Kingston/ Tetherow; Wine Valley Golf Club)
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Golf Club on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Imagine walking along a rolling links-style course in the high desert of Central Oregon, with the Cascades in the distance and the yellow and green and brown of the Scottish gorse, fairway and sand under foot. Ponderosa pines are sparse throughout the course, but dense on the northern perimeter where the course abuts the Deschutes National Forest. This is walking the course at Tetherow Golf Club in Bend, Oregon. Imagine again a high desert setting, with all of its greens and browns beneath a cobalt blue sky. Now think of it as being set in one of Washington’s greatest wine-growing regions of
Walla Walla and thinking about the gorgeous wines you’ll have as your reward for walking the beautiful course at Wine Valley Golf Club at Walla Walla. Finally, take a solo walk in a green oasis in the middle of the white-topped Cascades and the starkly contrasted and aptly named Black Butte in the foreground. This is the sort of picture you’ll envision for years to come through meditation. This is walking the course at Black Butte Ranch near Sisters, Oregon. Even in times as dark as these, there is beauty and solitude to be found if we just slow down, walk the courses of the Pacific Northwest and smell the roses along life’s only round.
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SILVIES SIMPLY AMAZING SINCE 1883
GOLF’S NEWEST FRONTIER HOME OF THE WORLD FAMOUS GOAT CADDIES
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The Retreat, Links, & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch Simply Amazing Since 1883
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Unique Golfing Experience
Golf an 18-hole reversible course—the first built anywhere in over 450 years (since the Old Course at St. Andrews), Chief Egan course, a 9-hole par 3, and McVeigh's Gauntlet, a 7-hole challenge course, featuring our world-famous goat caddies and a par 2 bonus hole! See the ‘All-Inclusive’ package to find out how to get unlimited golf. >>>
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SiIvies brand new conference center is designed for business meetings, retreats and big family meetings. The state-of-the-art facility can accommodate groups of up to 100 participants. Smaller rooms are available for breakout sessions. Call ahead to cater events and meetings with gourmet refreshments, made right here, at Silvies!
All-Inclusive Package
Unlimited golf, spa treatments, all available experiences, breakfast, lunch and dinner for each guest, each day, and $100 toward the room’s snack and mini bar. Includes a Lakeside Log Cabin Suite for 2 at $499* or a Full Lakeside Log Cabin for 4 at $424*
*Per Person, Per Night—Double Occupancy—2 Night Minimum. This package price excludes any alcohol during meals, merchandise, 9.8% lodging tax, and the 20% Resort Fee for gratuity. (non-tipping resort)
Reversible Design by one the of the Most Celebrated Golf Course Architects in the Pacific Northwest—Dan Hixson Seneca, OR | 1-800-SILVIES | www.silvies.us/LINKS BOOK YOUR ADVENTURE TODAY
Trim: 11" Safety: 0.25"
WHERE TO PLAY
MORE PLACES TO PLAY
OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47
CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40
GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82 7
INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59
OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24
OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2020
RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95
SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99
SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175
Running Y Ranch Resort (photo: Running Y Ranch Resort)
TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190
*Note: Course lengths are given in yards Safety: 0.25" Trim: 11"
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WHERE TO PLAY
WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/ Salish Cliffs Golf Club)
BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100
GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95 Kalispel Golf and Country Club (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)
THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE
PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB
www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165
www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109
PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA
THE HOME COURSE
www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139
www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49
INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49
WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155
STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)
SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $63-$109
Apple Tree Resort (photo: Apple Tree Resort)
IDAHO
SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38 9
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2020
COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99
PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56
TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards
Ladies’ #1 Choice and 11th Public Course in WA in 2019 Rankings by Cascade Golfer
Stay & Play packages start at $269. A Robert Muir Graves designed course that all levels of golfers will appreciate. Enjoy the spectacular natural setting of rolling fairways, abundant wildlife, historic logging stumps, and incredible views of the Hood Canal, Ludlow Bay, and the Olympic and Cascade Mountains.
www.PortLudlowResort.com/golf | 360.437.0272
Port Ludlow
Tacoma
RECONNEC T
W I T H FA M I LY A N D F R I E N D S TO EXPLORE, TO ADVENTURE, OR JUST REL AX.
SUMMER IS CALLING AND THE COAST IS CLEAR Aerial Park | Beachcombing | GolямБng | Hiking | Mountain Biking | Kayaking | SUPing | Spa
W W W. S A L I S H A N .C O M | 7 76 0 N O R T H H I G H WAY 1 0 1 , G L E N E D E N B E A C H , O R 9 7 3 8 8 | ( 5 4 1 ) 76 4 -3 6 0 0
