TRIP PLANNER: HOOD CANAL PG. 76
Leavenworth by Snowshoe
Oyster Recipes That Pack a Punch
Retreat to Palm Springs
Your Guide to Cozy Après-Ski Spots
at Washington’s Ski Resorts
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Small but Mighty photography by Benjamin Drummond
A creative casita lives like a full house for all seasons at the foothills of the Cascades in Twisp. (pg. 28)
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3
After hitting the slopes, warm up with a hot drink at Silver Fir Lodge at The Summit at Snoqualmie.
FEATURES FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025 • volume 47
48 Take a Snow Day Nine ways to après-ski at Washington’s top resorts— plus a DIY après-ski home party setup.
4
54
60
The Fate of Bighorn Sheep
Trash-to-Treasure Ocean Art
The race against the pathogen M.ovi, which threatens the diminishing herds of the Pacific Northwest.
Karen Hackenberg’s art explores the harmful impact of human activity on our oceans and sea creatures in her exhibit at Tacoma Art Museum.
written by Lauren Kramer
written by Kerry Newberry
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Carina Skrobecki Swain/State of Washington Tourism
written by Ryn Pfeuffer
WARM UP WITH A COLD ONE.
Wildwood Taphouse FIND YOUR NEW FAVORITE POUR etvor.com/beer
Whether you like your beers hoppy, sour or dark, or prefer a dry or sweet cider, there is plenty to satisfy your palate. Pull up a stool and sip for yourself! Find your new favorite pour, just west of Portland, at TUALATINVALLEY.ORG
ETV_1889_WA_Main_Feb-March_25_Beer.indd 1
1/14/25 9:56 AM
DEPARTMENTS FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025 • volume 47
82
LIVE 14 SAY WA?
Sea-to-soak skin products; Noble rock; Sinkhole’s dark humor.
20 FOOD + DRINK
Woodinville Sauce Co.; best places for crêpes.
24 FARM TO TABLE
Washington oysters and recipes. Visit Greater Palm Springs
28 HOME + DESIGN
A creative casita in Twisp.
36 MIND + BODY
Keana Hunter, Olympic silver medalist in artistic swimming.
THINK
68
24
40 STARTUP
Cuniform fashion consulting goes brick-and-mortar.
42 MY WORKSPACE
Progressive Animal Welfare Society.
46 GAME CHANGER
Olympic Park Advocates.
EXPLORE 68 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Yakima Valley Tourism
General Harvest Restaurants
Toppenish’s mural history.
10 Editor’s Letter 11 1889 Online 86 Map of Washington 88 Until Next Time
COVER
photo by Aaron Theisen (see “Take a Snow Day,” pg. 48)
6
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
70 ADVENTURE
Leavenworth on snowshoes.
74 LODGING
Friday Harbor House.
76 TRIP PLANNER
Hood Canal in three days.
82 NW DESTINATION
Palm Springs—mixed drinks, Marilyn and Mid-century mod.
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CONTRIBUTORS
MELISSA DALTON Writer Home + Design DIY
LAUREN KRAMER Writer The Fate of Bighorn Sheep
JASON REDMOND Photographer My Workspace
JONI KABANA Writer Travel Spotlight
“My 1907 bungalow in Portland came with one closet, a cavernous hole in the wall in a bedroom. That means that throughout my decadelong DIY remodel of my own house, I’ve had to dream up a lot of multifunctional storage solutions. That’s why I love the upholstered storage bench DIY plans—they do triple duty as seating and shoe corral and can be moved where needed.” (pg. 34)
“I first learned M.ovi was decimating herds of bighorn sheep while traveling in BC’s Cariboo region, but soon it became clear this bacteria has taken a heavy toll across the Pacific Northwest. Once, bighorn sheep were more prolific than deer. Today we’re down to just a few herds, their numbers in steady decline. It is comforting to know there are individuals and organizations who care deeply and are mobilized to help eradicate M.ovi.” (pg. 54)
“Spending time with cats and dogs is such a treat, so when 1889 asked me to photograph Progressive Animal Welfare Society (PAWS) Director of Public Affairs Mick Szydlowski at ‘Cat City,’ I couldn’t think of a more *puurfect* assignment. It was a pleasure meeting Szydlowski and the dedicated staff at PAWS and seeing the wonderful work they do.” (pg. 42)
“I love pulling into a very small town, looking at the old buildings and wondering what took place there many years ago. What really strikes me about Toppenish is how the town has taken great measures to keep its history alive and readily accessible for its residents and those who visit. The murals are incredibly beautiful, and each of them depicts something about the history of this remarkable town. I also admire their process for selecting artists—it is thoughtful and sensitive to the various cultures that make up their region.” (pg. 68)
Melissa Dalton is a freelance design and architecture writer who covers a wide range of stories, from A-frames to passive homes, historic restorations to DIY projects.
Lauren Kramer is a Bellinghambased freelance writer who was born in Cape Town, South Africa. She relishes raising a family in the Pacific Northwest and writes about social issues, food, travel and fascinating people.
8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Jason Redmond is a freelance photojournalist based in Seattle. He holds a degree from the University of Missouri School of Journalism and has worked at newspapers in Vermont, Missouri, Michigan, Florida and his home state of California.
When not working on programming and restoration of the Spray General Store in Oregon, you can find Joni Kabana out on backroads digging up stories and visuals of small-town rural America.
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
BEERVANA COLUMNIST
Jackie Dodd
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Rachel Gallaher, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Ben Salmon, Corinne Whiting
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Jackie Dodd, John Gussman, Nick Joyce, Jason Redmond, Aaron Theisen
Headquarters
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FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9
FROM THE
EDITOR
WHILE PEOPLE all around you are losing their minds, remember Washington still has the best oysters and ways and places to consume them. All along the southern tip of the Olympic Peninsula, the Hood Canal region is teeming with oyster farms, hosting their own shops and restaurants, while providing magnificent mollusks for the region’s top restaurants as well. Local chefs point to the colder, cleaner water of the Pacific and its inlets as being the key elements to Washington oyster supremacy. On page 24, you’ll find a good read on where to find the best oysters in the state, either by farm or by restaurant, and recipes for oysters Provençal, grilled Calabrian oysters and the dressed-down oysters with horseradish butter. You can be transported, if only momentarily, as the brine-cucumber-citrus hits your taste buds and reminds you that some things are good in this world. If you are seduced by the bivalve, stay in the Hood Canal region and turn to our Trip Planner (pg. 76). Over three days in Hood Canal, you’ll visit the top oyster farms, stake out the best places for bird watching along the Audubon Great Washington State Birding Trail and duck into some of the small wineries along the way. Pop up to Port Townsend for more boutiques and a beautiful town by the sea.
10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Perhaps no group of people is more aware of the treasure that is Olympic National Park than those at the nonprofit Olympic Park Advocates. If you have something beautiful and want to keep it that way, you have to fight for it. So was the case that in 1948, just ten years after FDR signed the bill creating Olympic National Park, a group of guardians came together under the banner of Olympic Park Associates. The group, now called Olympic Park Advocates, has, for more than seven decades, fought logging and development while improving salmon habitat and wilderness areas. Turn to page 46 to learn more. A lesser-known story of survival comes from the bighorn sheep community. Among the diminishing seventeen herds of bighorn sheep in Washington, many are unwittingly fighting against a pathogen known as M.ovi, which is a deadly pneumonia-like virus that is spreading and thinning herds. Read Lauren Kramer’s investigation into this topic (pg. 54) as she interviews top wildlife biologists to understand what happens next for Washington’s iconic ungulates. If it all seems too much for a February, take up a peachy cocktail from Walla Walla’s T-Post Tavern in our Cocktail Card on page 21, and then flip to our Northwest Destination for this issue— Palm Springs. Cheers!
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www.bit.ly/statehood mediadigital
Heybrook Lookout, near Index, is home to spectacular snowcapped mountain views, framing the familiar “bunny ears” of Baring Mountain.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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Coho Restaurant
SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 36
pg. 23 Find creative and sophisticated dishes at Coho Restaurant in Friday Harbor.
Kids ski free at the Loup Loup Ski Bowl! 300 acres of diverse terrain.
Discover year-round outdoor recreation at the Winthrop Rink in the Methow Valley.
LARGEST
CROSS-COUNTRY TRAIL SYSTEM IN NORTH AMERICA + 2 FAMILY-FRIENDLY SKI HILLS
FREE MAPS Call 888.431.3080, Scan the QR Code, or visit OkanoganCountry.com to start planning your adventure today! & GUIDES! This ad is funded totally or in part, as applicable, by the Okanogan County Hotel/Motel Lodging Tax Fund
World-class trail system at Methow Trails. Kids 17 and under & adults 75+ ski FREE every day.
A big hearted hill with a small town flair. Incredible views for miles. Experience Sitzmark.
say wa?
City of Sequim
Tidbits + To-dos CA mar LE k yo ND ur AR
written by Lauren Kramer
SeaSoaked Skin SeaSoaked Skin products, made in Edmonds, are based on thalassotherapy, meaning “from the sea.” Their ingredients—organically farmed marine Alaskan kelp and mineral salts—are rich in antioxidants and great for hydration, with a product range that includes vegan face care, body scrubs and oils, bath salts and soaps.
Sequim celebrates one of its best-known assets, sunshine, with the Sequim Sunshine Festival held March 7-8. This family event includes a color run, light exhibits, community art projects, an illuminated drone show, marketplace, live music and more. www.visitsunnysequim.com/263/Sequim-Sunshine-Festival
www.seasoakedskin.com ar CAm LENk your
DA R
Red Wine and Chocolate Yakima Valley’s annual Red Wine and Chocolate event is a February 14-17 celebration of award-winning wines and artisanal chocolates. Wineries throughout the valley will be pairing rich, local chocolate creations with their finest cabs, syrahs and merlots. Look out for handcrafted truffles, chocolate-dipped fruits and creative confections in an event that highlights Yakima’s wine and artisanal culinary scene. www.visityakima.com/ wine-event-red-wineand-chocolate
14
Sequim Sunshine Festival
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Wings Over Water Northwest Birding Festival Blaine’s Wings Over Water Northwest Birding Festival takes place March 14-16, celebrating the diversity of migratory birds that flock to the coastal waters of Drayton Harbor, Birch Bay and Semiahmoo Bay, a major stopover on the Pacific Flyway. The festival features guided birdwatching, artists, speakers and activities to engage kids and families.
Visit Bellingham
say wa?
www.wingsoverwater birdingfestival.com ur yo AR k r D ma EN
CA
L
3 Generations Jams
Handmade La Conner Handmade La Conner is a boutique manufacturer of lotions and sprays that is turning heads in Skagit County and well beyond. Their products, all chemical-free, phosphate-free and paraben-free, are available in a variety of aromatic, earthy scents including lemongrass, eucalyptus, lavender, rosewood and sweet orange. Look out for their laundry soap and linen sprays, two home items that will add scents of sweetness to your clothes, upholstery and pillows.
There’s never a bad time for jam, whether it’s added to basic toast or sweetening a cheese board. Up the ante on your jam with products by 3 Generations, a family-owned business based in Anacortes. Specializing in smallbatch artisan jams made from fruit grown in the Skagit Valley and Eastern Washington, 3 Generations’ selection includes tayberry, cranberry, raspberry-habanero, gooseberry, fig, quince and more. www.3generationsjam.com
www.handmadelaconner.com
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
15
Musician
Noises From the Basement Hayes Noble (and family) are just getting started in Spokane’s rock scene
Just 20 years old, Hayes Noble draws on sounds from rock’s greatest bands.
TAKE A SPIN through Hayes Noble’s latest album, As It Was, As We Were, and you’ll likely pick up on some influences that have been around for quite a while. You’ll hear the muscular melodicism of Minneapolis punk band Hüsker Dü, who came and went in the 1980s, and the barbed guitar heroics of Dinosaur Jr and Built to Spill, who rose to power in the ’90s. You’ll hear the noisy tendencies of Sonic Youth, whose run stretched from the ’80s into the 2000s, and the fuzzed-out chug of bands like Japandroids and Cloud Nothings, who ruled the 2010s. You could walk up to a lot of record shelves belonging to 50-year-old lifelong music fanatics and pull out LPs from every single artist listed above. Or you can just listen to the music of Hayes Noble, a singer, songwriter, DIY enthusiast and rising rock ‘n’ roller based in Spokane who is not 50 or 40 or even 30. He turned 20 in January. Which is not as shocking as it once might’ve been, because young people have had the entire history of recorded music at their fingertips for their whole lives thanks to online streaming platforms. But it is impressive. “For as long as I can remember, music has just been as ordinary to me as, like, organized sports,” Noble said. “My dad has been involved in hardcore and screamo and noise projects for the past thirty years, and my mom was heavily involved with art and design and photography and music as well. So growing up, I was always around music.” 16
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Listen on Spotify
Back then, Noble lived in Galena, Illinois, where he heard everything from folk icon Bob Dylan to sludge-metal band Weedeater around the house. He started out playing drums, picked up the guitar in eighth grade and began writing his own songs in high school. By late 2022, he had enough songs to record his first album, Head Cleaner, which was released in February of 2023. Later that year, Noble’s family moved to Spokane, where he has focused not only on writing new music and playing shows, but also building up the local all-ages scene. Finally, in 2024, he released As It Was, As We Were, an album that features towering walls of guitars and songs about “growing up and moving on to new things,” he said. His dad, Brett, plays drums on the album, and his brother, Everett, plays bass on eight of its ten tracks. Both play in his band on tour, too. “I’ve got (many) years of chemistry with my dad and my brother, and we’ve got a good thing going. It wouldn’t make sense to abandon it now,” Noble said. “Living under the same roof with them has made it possible for me to be able to do what I’m doing, you know?” he continued. “I’m very fortunate to have the situation I have, just like I’m very lucky to have grown up in a home full of instruments with people who let you play guitar in the basement until midnight.”
Corrina Noble
written by Ben Salmon
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The “Nick on the Rocks” name is a registered trademark of and is used with permission of Central Washington University.
Murray Krow
say wa?
Leyna Krow’s new short story collection follows her debut novel, Fire Season.
Bibliophile
Disastrously Funny Washington author blends dark humor, climate fears and Northwest beauty interview by Cathy Carroll
SPOKANE-BASED author Leyna Krow’s latest is Sinkhole, and Other Inexplicable Voids: Stories. Two of the short stories in the collection have been optioned for film. Jordan Peele’s production company, Monkey Paw, a Universal Pictures partner, optioned the story “Sinkhole,” and a script is in the works. Warner Brothers optioned the story “The Sundance Kid Might Have Some Regrets.” Zoe Kravitz is attached to that project to potentially play the twin bank robbers. 18
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
What prompted the stories’ themes of climate anxieties and motherhood tinged with magical realism and the bizarre? Magical realism and the natural environment are kind of my home base for fiction. They’re elements that I’m always drawn to as a writer. I’m really fascinated by the natural world and humans’ relationship to it, and I feel like sometimes we see that relationship most clearly when things are tilted a little off from reality—stories that show something unreal as a lens to get at what is real. The stories in the collection span almost a decade in terms of writing process. The oldest, the title story, “Sinkhole,” was written in 2015. I’ve begun to think of it as the collection of my 30s—I turned 40 at the beginning of 2024. It holds a lot of things that have consumed my attention in the last ten years—becoming a mother to my two kids and anxiety about their future but learning how to be in a marriage and how to be in lasting platonic friendships, how to balance the obligations I have toward other people with the version of myself I want to be. The stories are incisive yet darkly funny. How did you strike that balance?
When I’m writing, I’m always just trying to entertain myself first and foremost. It’s fun to be funny, and so that’s often where I start—playing around with something that makes me laugh. My sense of humor is sort of dark, so that’s where the stories go as well. But humor is also a tool of insight and meaning. I don’t think it’s so much striking a balance as using humor to shine a light on things that are hard-edged. Because things aren’t funny unless they’re true. But conversely, things won’t feel true if they’re only funny. So, at a certain point, I try to drop the humor and look at whatever I’m looking at straight on. How did Spokane and the Northwest, where many of the stories are set, influence the book? We’re very much inside the wildfire belt, and summers have begun to feel very perilous in a way that they did not when I first moved here (fourteen years ago). I think about it a lot, what it means when something beautiful becomes dangerous, the betrayal of it. There’s a lot of fire in the collection … but I also wanted to write about a climate disaster that I hadn’t seen before in fiction. I picked the most beautiful thing we have in Washington—Mount Rainier, our 14,000-foottall active volcano—as the site of it.
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food + drink
Beervana
The Unstoppable Project 9 Brewing written and photographed by Jackie Dodd
Inside an old auto repair shop in Maple Leaf, Project 9 Brewing is crafting great beer.
use as “free time” perfecting liquid that makes IN A CITY as saturated with breweries as Seattle, standing out takes a little magic—or beer nerds far and wide swoon. Vollan, his PROJECT 9 BREWING maybe just a lot of talent, a bit of swagger and partner in this venture, brings a sharp eye 1409 NE 80TH ST. for operations, helping the brewery run like some killer design work. Project 9 Brewing SEATTLE Co., located on a busy street in Maple Leaf ina well-oiled machine, even with little more www.project9brewing.com side the shell of an old Mercedes repair shop, than a year and a half under their belts. What to Know: has all three in abundance. Then there’s the beer itself. Let’s start with • Kid- and dog-friendly • Open seven days a week Founded by Barry Kinter and Andrew Distinguished Fellow, an English dark mild that’s as classic as it gets and already boasts Vollan, Project 9 is the kind of brewery that a gold medal from the Great American Beer makes you wonder why it took so long for them to show up, as if they’ve always been there and you’re just Festival (GABF), the most coveted and competitive awards in now realizing it. Kinter, the head brewer, is a man of many tal- the business. In the same year, they also claimed a spot in one ents—one of them happens to be crafting award-winning beer. of the most difficult and oversaturated categories at GABF with While still maintaining his day job as a senior software engineer Buccaneer’s Gold, a West Coast pilsner that won a silver medat Microsoft, he spends most of what us mere mortals would al. Not to mention King Lupu’s Happy Juice, a juicy IPA that 20
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
food + drink
ABOVE Project 9 beers have earned top awards at the esteemed Great American Beer Festival. AT RIGHT The iconic art on Project 9’s cans comes from the mind of Garrett Morlan, PlayStation’s creative director.
Photo: Hailey Skay
snagged a bronze at the World Beer Cup. While we haven’t even covered the local PNW awards they’ve won, it’s clear Project 9 isn’t just making beer—they’re sweeping many podiums. And just when you think it couldn’t get better, there’s the art. Each can is decked out in striking label designs by Garrett Morlan, creative director at PlayStation. Yes, that PlayStation. The labels don’t just stand out; they stop you in your tracks, making the beer feel like something you’d expect to see in a gallery, not just your fridge. Art that is mural-worthy, and dare I say even tattoo-worthy, graces their cans for your to-go drinking pleasure. The taproom itself is a space that’s easy to love. Family-friendly? Check. Dog-friendly? Of course. Morning coffee service for the early risers? Naturally. There’s even a food truck that takes up permanent residence just outside their building. Project 9 Brewing isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel—they’re just perfecting it. From the thoughtfully crafted beers to the welcoming vibe, they’re making Maple Leaf a can’t-miss destination for Seattle beer lovers. In a once barren stretch of the Seattle Ale Trail, this brewery is putting Maple Leaf on the map—and all signs point to future craft breweries following suit. Stop by, grab a pint and see what the buzz is all about. You’ll be glad you did.
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of T-Post Tavern / WALLA WALLA
The Spodie SERVES 6-8
• 3 ounces vodka • 8 ounces cranberry juice • 3 ounces peach • 8 ounces soda water schnapps • 8 ounces Sprite • 3 ounces Malibu rum • 2 cups mixed fresh fruit • 8 ounces pineapple juice Stir together all ingredients besides fresh fruit. Serve with ice in a big ice bin (or a similar large vessel of your choice). Add 2 cups of mixed fresh fruit and a couple cherries on top. Finish with multiple straws for sharing.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
21
CRAVINGS SWEET SAUCES
Photos: Woodinville Sauce Co.
The ultimate tonic for a sweet tooth might just be Hot Cakes’ handmade chocolate and caramel sauces. The decadently rich artisan sauces made by the Seattle-based dessert restaurant are perfect over ice cream, pancakes or waffles as well as in milkshakes, hot chocolate and caramel lattes. The sauces are available in vegan or regular versions of dark chocolate, sea salt caramel, rye whiskey caramel and salted honey caramel. Look out for them at PCC Community Markets and other select grocery stores, or online. www.getyourhotcakes.com Chef Dave Holthus struck out on his own to create Woodinville Sauce Co., with three new sauces for many dishes.
Gastronomy
Woodinville Sauce Company written by Lauren Kramer FOR A CHEF who loves creating, a restaurant job can get a bit staid after a while. Chef Dave Holthus, based in Woodinville, was executive chef for Microsoft employee cafes and Nordstrom restaurants before he left in 2019. During Covid, he started experimenting with sauces and, in 2021, opened Woodinville Sauce Co. as chief saucemaker extraordinaire. His company offers three marinades to date: Asian’Q, which is a Korean fusion barbecue sauce; Dos Haches, which is a hot sauce; and Blackberry Grill, a smooth barbecue sauce with a berry-hickory flavor. All three combine a selection of regional ingredients with great flavor and are perfect for proteins, stir fries, breakfast burritos, charcuterie boards and salad bowls. “These are not your corn syrup and barbecue flavorings for $4.99,” said Holthus, who has always had a passion for sauces and a fascination with the chemistry of cooking. Made without chemicals and thickeners, they contain natural and raw sugars that deliver caramelization when grilled, baked and seared, but also have the right viscosity to use as spreads, dips or drizzles. The blackberry grill sauce, a mix of local blackberries, honey and tomatoes, pairs perfectly with salmon, ribs, steak and chicken, while the Asian’Q combines apple, ginger, tamarind and red chilies and is ideal for rice bowls, dumplings, chicken wings or as a sandwich spread. Dos Haches, a salsa-style hot sauce made with chili, lime, onions and tomatoes, has a robust flavor that makes it perfect for eggs, breakfast burritos, baked potatoes or for elevating a simple salsa fresca. Sauces in the works include a Japanese hot sauce as Holthus continues to innovate with spices and molecular gastronomy. Woodinville Sauce Co products are available at www. wsauceco.com, farmers markets, local area stores and at PCC Community Markets. 22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
PASTA Pasta lovers will want to try Wildly Beloved Foods’ organic fresh and dried pastas. The Clinton-based company’s pasta is made with organic Italian flour, and its range, which includes campanelle, bucatini, cavatelli and conchiglie, comes in vegan and egg-based versions. Available online and in select grocery stores. www.wildlybelovedfoods.com
KRAUT Crazy about kraut and its health benefits, Julie O’Brien has created a series of ferments that combine delicious taste with kraut’s disease-prevention benefits. Her kraut range at Firefly Kitchens includes salsa, caraway, ruby red vegetable mix, an El Salvadoran-inspired blend and emerald city, a kraut infused with dill, turmeric and coriander. The products, all created in a monthlong fermentation process without vinegar, heat or sugar, are probiotic, raw, vegan and dairy-free. www.fireflykitchens.com
CIDER The fourteen ciders made by Bellingham Cider Company are all derived from Washington apples, with no sulfites, sugars or preservatives added. The rotating seasonal ciders produced by this award-winning cidery include blackberry ginger, blueberry lemonade, cucumber lime and raspberry rhubarb, delivering the whiff of the season in a glass. 205 PROSPECT ST. BELLINGHAM www.bellinghamcider.com
food + drink
Photos: Coho Restaurant
BEST PLACES FOR
CRÊPES BEAR FOODS NATURAL MARKET The crêpes at Chelan’s Bear Foods Natural Market are free of wheat, milk and eggs, making them a perfect treat for those who have allergies. Available for take-out service only, the menu includes a selection of unique combination like pecan pâté with arugula, mushrooms, chèvre and cranberries, or seasoned chicken with brie and toasted walnuts. 125 E. WOODIN AVE. CHELAN www.bearfoodsmarket.com/cafe-and-creperie
KAGEN COFFEE & CRÊPES Kagen Coffee & Crêpes in Richland has crêpes with all the usual sweet treats, but it also offers a great selection of savory crêpes. Vegetarians will love the black bean crêpe, with guacamole, spinach and pico de gallo, while meat lovers can opt for the Montecristo, where egg, ham and turkey meet provolone and cheddar. The Breakfast in Bed crêpe, featuring egg, bacon, cheddar and maple sausage, is an all-time favorite.
Culinary creativity in its highest form is on the tip of your tongue at Coho Restaurant.
Dining
Coho Restaurant written by Lauren Kramer
Spokane’s Café Boku Coffee & Crêpes is where you’ll find Japanese-inspired crêpes. Look for the sweet chili bokujuku with chicken, pickled carrots and sweet chili sauce if you’re in the mood for savory, or the dessertlike ube cookie crêpe, a combination of ube whip, cream cheese, Oreo crumbs and bananas. If you’re visiting with kids, ask for the ube rainbow crêpe, a sweet, colorful dish that will brighten any child’s day.
DON’T COME TO Coho Restaurant looking for burgers, fries or a quick meal. There’s nothing fast, processed or ordinary about this twenty-four-seat, intimate dining room, which offers fine dining dinner service on white tablecloths, with soft lighting and jazz playing quietly in the background. Come for a take-your-time meal to celebrate a special occasion, as Coho is all about sophistication, multiple small courses and a unique culinary approach you won’t find elsewhere. Located in a charmingly repurposed house in San Juan Island’s Friday Harbor, Coho’s menu changes seasonally, but chef Elita Pauley gives every item a unique spin. The house bread, for example, was offered with spruce tip-apple jelly the night we dined. Our salad was composed of grilled chicory with pickled shallots and toasted hazelnuts, while a small plate of shio koji-cured leek nori flower was presented in a sushi roll imitation. Those bite-size leeks, poached in housemade dashi and served with a sesame miso radish slaw, exemplify a level of detailed attention invested in every dish at Coho. It’s this dedication to the extraordinary that sets this restaurant apart from any other on the island. We dined on Thai lemongrass soup, which was a sweetly delicious belly-warmer, and tried the rack of lamb and braised beef cheek ragu. Everything that emerged from the kitchen was artfully composed, well thought-out and richly flavorful. To experience the full breadth of chef Pauley’s talents, opt for the four-course prix fixe menu at $90 per person. With just three-to-four offerings under each category, the menu is small. But from the amusebouche to the dessert finale, you’ll leave this restaurant richly satisfied and deeply impressed.
915 E. HAWTHORNE ROAD, SUITE A SPOKANE @cafebokuspokane on Instagram
120 NICHOLS ST. FRIDAY HARBOR www.cohorestaurant.com
270 WILLIAMS BLVD. RICHLAND www.kagenandco.com
MAGDALENA’S BISTRO AND CRÊPERIE In Bellingham, Magdalena’s Bistro and Crêperie has some tantalizing brunch and lunch crêpe options, made with whole-wheat batter or available glutenfree. The European-style crêpes are light, tasty and the perfect envelope for some mouthwatering combinations. Try the ricotta with blueberry-lavender compote, berries and mascarpone, or the Italian prosciutto with brie and chili-fig spread. 1200 10TH ST., #103 BELLINGHAM www.magdalenascreperie.com
CAFÉ BOKU
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
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farm to table
Half Shell is just one Washington location serving up one of the state’s most highly sought farm products, the oyster.
Farm to Table
An Ode to Oysters Washington chefs share their best half-shell hacks
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OYSTER LOVERS relish this region’s bounty, as Washington seems to offer more and more choices for where and how to enjoy this local delicacy. Whether you head straight to the source for tide-totable experiences at waterside farms—like at the Taylor Shellfish HQ in Shelton or Hama Hama in Lilliwaup—or settle into a chic urban eatery in Seattle, enticing options abound. Coastal communities have long taken advantage of—and depended on—the harvest of oysters here. Native people enjoyed abundant wild oysters; the Olympia oyster, the only indigenous one in Washington, once could be easily found in the bays and estuaries of Puget Sound and Willapa Bay. Then the California Gold Rush of the mid-1800s largely spurred commercial harvest here, as California’s waterways were picked over and folks flocked north to seek oysters from Olympia oyster beds. After native oysters in this region grew scarce, non-native ones got imported from the East Coast and Japan. This launched the thriving Washington oyster industry we know and celebrate today. 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Half Shell
written by Corinne Whiting
farm to table
the liquor in the shell, plus the meat being preserved whole with no cuts or piercings. Then a clean detachment of the adductor muscle from the shell on both sides is desired, and the oyster can be flipped or repositioned, so the meat sits with the smoother, more photogenic side up. We asked the experts for even more tips. Clevenger encourages local sourcing (oysters are better in colder months) and taking note of the harvest date. “Then determine what you’ll want to do with them,” he advised. “If barbecuing, you can go larger; if eating raw, a smaller, more delicate oyster would be best.” When shopping, Johnson also recommends selecting those that feel heavy for their size as an indication of freshness. “While I often crave oysters most on a sunny summer day, oysters in our region are at the peak deliciousness when the Puget Sound is the coldest,” he said. “Mid-winter is a great time to try shucking raw oysters at home.” Then, on a hot summer day, he recommends his recipe for grilled oysters with horseradish butter, accompanied by a bucket of ice-cold beverages. To store the oysters, Jayawickreme says to keep them cold (but not in cold water), and they should also be used within fortyeight hours of purchase. (If oysters don’t smell like the brininess of the ocean or seem off in any way, it’s best to discard.) For serving, he prefers serving raw oysters with lemon wedges, mignonette sauce, hot sauce, classic homemade cocktail sauce and fresh rasped horseradish. And voila, one of the Pacific Northwest’s rightful claims to fame. General Harvest Restaurants
“Pacific Northwest oysters, in my opinion, are often the best,” said Brian Clevenger, owner of General Harvest Restaurants. “I think it’s because they come from colder, clean water, and that provides a clean texture with cucumber and citrus notes.” Brock Johnson, restaurant director and chief of staff, TD and Co., shares how this region’s farmers have perfected the “tumbled” oyster. “These oysters are tumbled in a machine or in floating bags to improve their shape and strengthen their shells,” he explained. “This results in oysters with deep cups and firm meat. My favorite oyster profile is clean and crisp, with a melon-cucumber finish … pretty classic Pacific Northwest.” At seafood-centric newcomers like Tom Douglas’ Half Shell, a hip and friendly eatery in which to cozy up to a booth for chilled martinis, divine Dungeness crab rolls and half-shell delights, most oysters come from south Puget Sound and Hood Canal, through multiple oyster farming partners. “This region grows some of the finest shellfish in the world,” Johnson said, adding how they savor being a stone’s throw from the vendors of bustling Pike Place Market. “Our location in the market not only provides an opportunity to shop the freshest seasonal products,” he said, “but truly inspires our seasonal menus throughout the year.” (Guests can enjoy $2 oysters here every day from 3 to 6 p.m.) In upper Fremont, another newcomer, Haerfest, welcomes diners into its approachably sleek space featuring locally and sustainably harvested produce, seafood dishes and house-made pastas. (The bread service with honeycomb butter is not to be overlooked.) All oysters served here are regional and seasonally dependent. Clevenger’s favorite oysters are also tumbled oysters that he believes “tend to be a little sweeter, smaller, and have a really clean, bright finish.” “In the colder months, we source in the southern end of Washington,” he said. “Then as it gets warmer, we start to move north in search of colder waters.” Historic spots around town celebrate oysters, too, like Fairmont Olympic Hotel, Seattle, which opened in 1924 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Here, director of culinary Eraj Jayawickreme shares that they source from Penn Cove and Taylor Shellfish Farms, with oysters arriving in ice twice a week, directly from the farms. Jayawickreme agrees that oysters are deeply integrated into the culinary and cultural fabric of the Pacific Northwest. This can be credited to the Northwest’s clean, cold waters providing an ideal environment for the oysters to grow slowly (concentrating their flavor) and sustainable aquaculture, thanks to Washington having a long history of environmentally conscious oyster farming. This ensures the ecosystems remain healthy and productive. He added: “Tidal influences, too—the dramatic tidal ranges of Puget Sound and other coastal areas expose oysters to both water and air, toughening their shells and enhancing their flavor.” Since Seattle’s Fairmont is home to Shuckers Oyster Bar, one of the city’s oldest and most preeminent oyster venues, there seemed no better place to define the perfect “shuck.” Jayawickreme laid out the following: a fully cleaned and scrubbed oyster, clean entry when opening the shell and the preservation of all
Brian Clevenger, owner of General Harvest Restaurants, said his favorite oysters are from the cold waters of the Pacific Northwest and tumbled for firmer meat.
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farm to table
Washington Recipes
Sea-to-Slurp Oyster Dishes
Oysters Provençale
Fairmont Olympic Hotel / SEATTLE Eraj Jayawickreme, Director of Culinary SERVES 2 • 1 tomato, peeled and diced • 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped • 1 teaspoon fresh herbs, including thyme, basil, parsley and oregano • 2 tablespoons olive oil • Salt and pepper, to taste • 12 oysters on the half shell • Asiago cheese, grated Combine tomato, garlic, fresh herbs, olive oil, salt and pepper. Top oysters with grated cheese. Bake until bubbly hot (and fully done—the cheese will make a crust) at 475 degrees, anywhere from 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the oyster size. Oysters Provençale on the half shell in the PNW.
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farm to table
Grilled Oysters with Horseradish Butter Half Shell / SEATTLE Brock Johnson, Tom Douglas Grilled Calabrian Oysters.
Grilled Calabrian Oysters
Kimpton Palladian Hotel’s Shaker + Spear / SEATTLE Executive Chef Gabriel Quintero SERVES 2-4 FOR THE CALABRIAN CHILI BUTTER • 1 tablespoon oil • ¼ cup garlic, chopped • ¼ cup shallots, chopped • 2 tablespoons Calabrian chilies, made into a paste • ¼ pound (one stick) butter, at room temperature • 1 teaspoon chives, chopped • 1 teaspoon parsley, chopped • ½ teaspoon paprika • Zest and juice of 1 lemon FOR THE OYSTERS • 12 Kusshi oysters, on the half shell • Grated parmesan, as needed • Lemon wedges, for serving
SERVES 8 FOR THE HORSERADISH BUTTER • 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened • 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1½ teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme • 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish • Pinch of cayenne pepper • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE OYSTERS • 18 to 24 oysters, scrubbed and rinsed • 3 cups rock salt • Fresh thyme sprigs for garnish, if desired • Lemon wedges for serving FOR THE HORSERADISH BUTTER Combine the butter, lemon juice and zest, thyme, horseradish and cayenne until smooth in a food processor, with
an electric mixer or by hand. Season to taste with salt and pepper. FOR THE OYSTERS Fire up the grill. Grill the oysters over high heat for about 5 minutes until they “pop” open, being sure to put them on the grill flat side up and cupped side down so that when they open, the oyster liquor isn’t lost in the fire. Remove the oysters from the grill as they pop open. After 10 minutes, remove all of them from the grill, whether they’ve opened or not, and place them in a folded towel. Using a towel or an oven mitt to protect your hands, shuck the oysters with an oyster knife, discarding the top shells, and be sure to pick out any pieces of shell or dirt. Also use the oyster knife to scoop under the oyster and cut the bottom muscle. Put about 1 teaspoon of horseradish butter on top of each oyster. Return the oysters to the grill for another minute or so until the butter begins to melt. Remove them from the grill. Pour the rock salt onto a rimmed baking sheet, set the oysters on top, and set the pan on the cooler part of the grill. Garnish each oyster with a small thyme sprig, and set a plate of lemon wedges nearby.
FOR THE CALABRIAN CHILI BUTTER Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots, and cook gently until softened and fragrant. Be careful not to let them brown. Stir in the Calabrian chili paste, and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Transfer the cooled mixture to a food processor. Blend with the butter until smooth and evenly orange. Add the chives, parsley, paprika, lemon zest and lemon juice. Mix well, and set aside. FOR THE OYSTERS Preheat a grill to medium-high heat. Place the oysters on the grill, shell side down. Add 1 teaspoon of the prepared Calabrian chili butter to each oyster. Grill for 5 minutes, or until the butter melts and the oysters are bubbling. Sprinkle with parmesan, and let it melt for 1 additional minute. Carefully remove the oysters from the grill, and serve with lemon wedges.
Grilled Oysters with Horseradish Butter.
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
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The casita has 15-foottall windows and 450 square feet for a modest presence that lives large.
“We had been doing a lot of single-family residential products, so we decided that since we’re in a different environment here, and we wanted to do a project for us, that we should try to do something that we hadn’t done before. We wanted to use this as a creative exercise.” — Ray Johnston, Johnston Architects founding partner 28
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home + design
Home + Design
Modern in Methow Two architects build a multifunctional cabin that embodies their design philosophies written by Melissa Dalton photography by Benjamin Drummond WHEN MARY and Ray Johnston bought 11 acres in Twisp in 1999, it had a lone picnic table and a lot of empty land. That may as well have been a blank slate for the two architects, and founders of the Seattle firm Johnston Architects. “We had been doing a lot of single-family residential products, so we decided that since we’re in a different environment here, and we wanted to do a project for us, that we should try to do something that we hadn’t done before,” said Ray. “We wanted to use this as a creative exercise.” By 2005, the couple had finished the first cabin on the property, which they describe as “small in size but large in spirit,” with rustic materials used in refined ways, and 15-foot-tall windows that capture the incredible sweep of Methow Valley scenery. As of 2019, the couple got the creative itch again, eyeing the old Airstream behind the first cabin. The Airstream had served many purposes— Ray and Mary lived in it while they built the main home. Then it became a guest house, complete with water, septic and rotating visitors. “Our daughter lived here one summer in the Airstream, and so did a friend of hers who was a nurse,” Mary recalled. “It seemed like a logical place to put the casita.” The “casita” is the couple’s next experiment, a smaller, second cabin that serves multiple functions, including as guest suite, office/studio, covered outdoor space and that Methow must: a sauna. “One of the main activities in the winter here is cross-country skiing,” said Mary. “When you have a day out skiing in the single digits, it’s nice to have that warm-up.” The casita’s footprint is half that of their first cabin—450 square feet to the original’s 800 square feet—with a window wall that wraps the corner to create immersion in the stunning views of the Cathedral Peaks. This time, the architects’ design challenge was to create something that not only fit their Methow site, but could also accommodate the city of Seattle’s requirements for backyard DADUs (detached accessory dwelling units). “We have a tiny house in North Seattle on a tiny lot, and this would fit in the backyard,” said Ray. The Johnstons wanted their model to be modular, so it’s easy to expand or contract the size to meet client needs, and simple to construct, to keep costs down. To socialize their concept, the couple invited staff members from their Seattle office to come out and help them build. “A good way to train architects is to have them build,” said Ray. “We’d have work parties, and people who had never lifted a hammer before were banging away,” added Mary. “It was pretty fun.” They did much of the interior and exterior carpentry themselves, then reached out to local firm FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
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home + design
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Shingle-style walls and concrete floors pair warmth and modernism.
The main living room in the casita has corner windows to better take in the Methow Valley vistas.
Brandenburg Construction for specialized help with things like concrete, plumbing, electrical and tile. The casita plan is tucked under one sloped roof, augmented with 240 square feet of covered patio, anchored by a 64-square-foot sauna and outdoor shower. On first glance, the interior layout is straightforward, with one large room and a full bathroom, but clever detailing and finishes distinguish the spaces. For instance, a large gear closet (also essential in the region) and built-in shelving nooks keep clutter arranged or out of view, while monochrome finishes in the kitchen (all black) and bathroom (all white) puts the attention to the outdoors. “That’s important because of the way this environment changes through the year,” said Ray. “In May it will be bright green with yellow balsamroot flowers all over the place, and in the winter, white pillowy snow.” Interior finishes were kept simple, cost effective and durable. Most walls are covered in larch flooring boards installed shingle style, with concrete floors underfoot, and plywood on the ceiling. “We didn’t want any Sheetrock in it,” said Mary. “Anything that’s not the shingle is plywood or tile.” That subtle texture brings a warmth to the modernism. “It’s not uncommon for people to say, ‘We don’t like modern,’” said Ray. “But often what they don’t like is Sheetrock and white paint.” Since completing the casita in 2021, their firm has even developed an accompanying software that allows people to input their site data, customize the casita plan—perhaps adding more bedrooms or taking away the
sauna—to streamline the process of creating construction documents. The idea is not unlike Ikea’s online kitchen planner, only the takeaway is more accessible backyard housing in the city, or an idyllic small cabin in the woods. Naturally, the casita gets a lot of use, whether the Johnstons offer it to neighbors who need to evacuate their properties due to wildfire, or have visiting family members calling dibs. “If I were to distill our design philosophy and summarize what’s important to us in our career and architecture, I would say that this little building embodies a lot of our thinking: efficient, clean and modern, easy to construct, but warm with a lot of texture and evidence of the human hand,” said Mary. “It’s one of our favorite buildings.”
A rustic cabin with a modern bathroom makes the casita suitable for all guests.
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At 240 square feet, the covered outdoor space of the casita is a massive addition to its living space.
home + design
DIY
Upholstered Storage Bench (on Wheels!) THE SMALL, but mighty, storage bench can be a powerhouse, providing extra seating and storage and filling in awkward nooks in the architecture. We put ours on wheels, rather than building it in, to make it renter friendly, and we gave it open cubbies for easy access and a cushioned top for comfort. Here’s our steps: PREP THE PLYWOOD Dimensions can vary for this project, but our example will be 42 inches long and 18 inches tall. Cut the three larger pieces of 3/4-inch plywood to size. These will be the top, back and bottom of the box. Cut two vertical supports and two dividers (they will be the same size) from the same plywood. MEASURE Lay out one large piece of plywood, measure and mark where the dividers will be placed, so that they are an equal distance apart. BUILD THE FRAME Screw and glue the vertical supports and dividers to the large piece of plywood, clamping when done. When the glue is dry, remove the clamps, turn the assemblage on the side and attach the bottom. Clamp,
and wait until dry. Repeat with the third large plywood piece to cover the back. TRIM IT OUT Time to trim the edges to give the bench a finished look. Cut a 1/2-inch by 11/2-inch piece of wood into four long lengths, for the front and back, and four short lengths, for the sides. Using a brad nailer, attach the top pieces so that they are flush with the ceiling of the box. This will create an empty space on top of the box, with a trim overlay of 3/4 inches tall. (This is where the upholstery will go.) Add the trim to the bottom, keeping the edges flush with the bottom of the box. PAINT AND ROLL Screw sturdy casters into each corner of the bottom, making sure they are tall enough to clear the
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trim on the bottom edge. Stain or paint the assemblage as desired. CREATE THE CUSHION Measure the available space inside the trim on the top of the box, and cut a piece of MDF or plywood to size. Cut 2-inch-thick upholstery foam to match the MDF. Lay down cotton batting on the floor, then place the foam and MDF on top. Cut the batting, leaving a 3-inch border. Repeat this process, laying the batting atop the fabric, so they are the same size. Create the cushion “sandwich” by laying out the fabric first (finished pattern facing the floor), lining up the batting and then centering the foam with the MDF on top. Pull the fabric and batting over the edges taut, and staple into the MDF, moving around the “sandwich” in increments until done. Trim excess fabric, and fit the upholstered top into the base.
home + design
Get the Look of the Casita In the casita, the lighting is svelte, so as not to block those stunning mountain views. Gubi’s Grasshopper Floor Lamp is a classic for that, created in 1948 by Swedish designer Greta Magnusson Grossman and available at Design Within Reach, with its thin tubular steel tripod legs that evoke its namesake. www.dwr.com
Made from U.S.-sourced solid white oak and cognac-colored leather in Vermont, the Lars lounge chair from Room & Board looks quite refined. Yet with its wide arm rests and a deep and wide seat, it’s still designed for serious sprawling.
Rejuvenation can always be counted on for modern takes on domestic classics. Take the humble jute rug, a good choice for cabin living for its durability. This version, the Bowen Jute and Wool Flatweave Rug, has a neutral color palette, a hearty jute and wool weave and a contemporary geometric pattern. www.rejuvenation.com
www.roomandboard.com
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mind + body Keana Hunter, a member of the 2024 U.S. Olympic artistic swimming team, poses with her silver medal from the Paris games last summer.
Silver Linings U.S. Olympic artistic swimming silver medalist Keana Hunter trained tirelessly to reach the podium written by Lauren Kramer
Kristy Sparow/Getty Images, courtesy of USA Artistic Swimming
WHEN THE U.S. national artistic swimming team received a silver medal in the 2024 Paris Olympics, Washingtonian Keana Hunter was one of the group of eight swimmers. Her preparations had been intense: four years of swimming six days a week, entering the water at 6 a.m. and only toweling off at 3 p.m. But it was the fulfillment of a dream Hunter had fostered from the age of 12 and that moment of victory that made all those long hours in the pool worth it. Hunter and her two brothers learned to swim at a young age, and by 8 years old, she was on a swim team, playing water polo and taking dance class after school. At the suggestion of a friend, she tried an artistic swimming camp for a week. “It combined water, artistic expression and a team atmosphere, all the things I loved,” she said. “Right away, I was sold!” Within two years she tried out for the age 11 to 12 national team, and when she didn’t make it the first time, it only fomented Hunter’s determination. The following year she was accepted and quickly adapted to an accelerated schedule of eight-to-ten hours in the pool each day. She would train for three months over the summer and compete at an international competition before heading home.
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In artistic swimming, we put on a performance, and it’s a special feeling to know you’re doing that in a group where everyone alongside you is your friend, and is giving their best.” — Keana Hunter 188 188 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE MAGAZINEFEBRUARY FEBRUARY | MARCH | MARCH2025 2025 9 9WASHINGTON’S
Kennedy Shriver/USA Artistic Swimming
mind + body
Keana Hunter
Artistic Swimmer Born: Seattle Lives: Columbus, Ohio Age: 21
WORKOUT
Keana Hunter and Team USA perform their acrobatic routine at the 2024 World Aquatic Championships in Doha, Qatar.
During club season after school, Hunter would head to the Seattle Artistic Swim Team, where she’d practice under the mentorship of team coach Daniela Garmendia. “She was a light in my life,” she recalled. “Daniela helped me build a path forward, and when she asked me, at age 12, if I wanted to go to the Olympics, I knew the answer was yes!” Success came quickly. At 16, she made the junior national team, which meant leaving home in Issaquah to stay with a host family in Moraga, California. Hunter completed high school online while training in the Bay Area. At 17, when she made the senior national team, she moved to Los Angeles. Making the team didn’t always mean swimming in pattern, as part of the group of eight performers. Each team has up to fourteen members so that if anyone has an injury, another swimmer can step right in. “Over the years, I became very versatile,” Hunter said. “I was familiar with everyone’s spots, and knew the counts for each position in the team and how to flip in the air. I learned about resilience and self correction, and kept working towards my goal, to make the Olympic squad.”
For Hunter, the most magical aspect of artistic swimming is the teamwork and camaraderie. “In artistic swimming, we put on a performance, and it’s a special feeling to know you’re doing that in a group where everyone alongside you is your friend, and is giving their best,” she said. In the shadow of the Olympics, Hunter is studying psychology at Ohio State University and considering a future as a sports psychologist. “I came from a small swim club in Seattle and had to work very hard to get as far as I did,” she said. “So I’d like my future work to connect me to other athletes who are trying to navigate that tricky path.” A long way from hanging up her swimsuit, Hunter chose The Ohio State University because it has one of the best artistic swimming collegiate teams. “After four years of spending ten hours a day in the pool, I’m excited to focus more on school and less on swimming,” she admitted. “But when I think about the 2028 LA Olympics, I get really excited. Being on the podium was such an amazing feeling, and the next Olympics will be on our own turf. It makes me want to do it all again!” FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
“In college, I exercise twenty hours a week, doing CrossFit three times a week and swimming six days a week, three hours each time. The swim workout for my team includes hypoxic breath training, sprinting and drill sets, all of which help refine our artistic swimming skills. We also spend time building our routines and learning our choreography.”
NUTRITION “My team has a nutritionist who helps guide us on how to eat. To fuel for training, I eat salad, fruit, yogurt, proteins and carbs throughout the day. I avoid fatty and fried food when I’m training, but on weekends I’ll give myself a break.”
INSPIRATION “For the past three years, the national team I was on was coached by Andrea Fuentes, a Spanish Olympic medalist in artistic swimming, and she has been my inspiration. She kept our routines new and exciting, and she inspired me to keep pushing my limits, no matter what.”
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STARTUP 40 MY WORKSPACE 42
pg. 42 Life change for Mick Szydlowski, from Red Bull to black cats.
Jason Redmond
GAME CHANGER 46
COME AS YOU ARE In Lincoln City, you don’t need to change a thing — just bring yourself. Here, the coast welcomes everyone, whether you’re chasing the magic of the tides, seeking quiet moments by the fire, or savoring fresh seafood with your toes in the sand. Embrace the quirky, the cozy, and the carefree. Because here, you can be you. ExploreLincolnCity.com
Photos: Cuniform
startup
Serving Up Style Seattle-based Cuniform, which helps people polish their wardrobes and homes, opens a new boutique on Capitol Hill written by Rachel Gallaher IF ANYONE understands the nuances of pivoting a business to match the zeitgeist, it’s Colton Dixon Winger, founder and CEO of Cuniform, the Seattle-based personal styling agency. Launched in 2016 as a closet-auditing service—Dixon and his team would go to clients’ homes and help them sort through closets and drawers and winnow down their wardrobe to the essential items that best suited their bodies, personalities and lifestyles—Cuniform has undergone a series of evolutions over the years. The company’s latest move, opening a brick-and-mortar boutique on Capitol Hill in July 2024, goes beyond adding another independent retailer to the neighborhood. “Once we got into the space, we knew we wanted to engage with the community every month,” Winger said. “I see it like a fashion clubhouse. We offer shopping but also host events. Those range from vendor pop-ups to cookie exchange parties and educational panels.” Outfitted with relaxed vintage furniture, a low-slung sofa and ever-changing floral arrangements, the Cuniform boutique is the kind of place you can pop in to say hello, see what’s happening that week and browse the racks of new and vintage clothing and accessories. (Currently, the space is open to the 40 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
public Fridays through Sundays, noon to 5 p.m., with weekday visits available via appointment.) “During the pandemic, people shifted away from getting as dressed up or buying clothes,” Winger said. “Under lockdown, everyone shifted into this stayat-home mentality, so at that time, we launched Cuniform Interiors, and for the past couple of years, we’ve been holding space for that branch of the company. In 2024, the pendulum swung the other way—people are going out more, events are coming back, offices are requiring employees to return—so now we see a lot more requests for wardrobe styling.” Winger said Cuniform still offers interior design services, but as socialization ramps back up and people are out of their homes more, it’s less in demand. Since July, he’s been enjoying the rootedness of a brick-and-mortar spot and loves meeting other shop owners and residents from the neighborhood. (Cuniform is located in the strip of shops along 15th Ave E., next to the recently closed Shop Rite.) He has the spot through the summer of 2025 when the owner plans to redevelop the building. Until then, Cuniform will focus on helping to build a creative community and serve as a platform for other local, independent businesses and makers through pop-ups and collaborative events. Most of all, Winger, who has a retail background through brands including Nordstrom and Totokaelo, wants to make getting dressed fun again. He believes that helping people find and embrace their personal style can boost their confidence, which will impact other parts of their lives. “The space is a place where people can come and meet the team,” he said. “They can shop on their own, and of course, we’re always happy to have them learn more about what we do.” AT LEFT Colton Dixon Winger, with a history in retail, rolled out Cuniform to help people find their styles. AT TOP Cuniform’s newly opened shop on Capitol Hill.
In a time of change, Indigenous people continued to thrive.
Dic k f ro m R iv e rside , c . 1910
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O R E G O N
EXHIBITION NOW OPEN
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Exhibi t i o n o rgan i ze d by t h e N o rt h w e st M use um o f A rts a nd C ulture . G e ne ro us sup p o rt p ro vid ed by Art Br i dge s.
my workspace
My Workspace
Breaking Feline A corporate cat turns nonprofit for the win written by Joni Kabana photography by Jason Redmond
Mick Szydlowski’s career path has been an adventure. After working for corporations such as Coca-Cola and Red Bull, Szydlowski turned to working with mission-based companies, such as PAWS (Progressive Animal Welfare Society), headquartered in Lynnwood.
PAWS Director of Public Affairs Mick Szydlowski holds Brie at PAWS’ Cat City location in Seattle.
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my workspace
Today, as the director of public affairs for PAWS, Szydlowski creates social media campaigns and writes stories for newsletters in addition to duties of media relations. He also finds himself working as a producer when reporters or television shows (such as Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom: Protecting the Wild) accept his request to tell stories about the most vulnerable cats, dogs and wild animals.
Cats available for adoption rest at PAWS’ Cat City facility in Seattle’s University District. PAWS also adopts out dogs and cats at its Lynnwood campus, which includes its Companion Animal Shelter and Spay/Neuter Clinic, and it operates a wildlife rehabilitation center in Snohomish.
Szydlowski creates materials that educate and empower the community to take compassionate action toward animals. The programs at PAWS reach thousands of kids and adults annually to help nurture empathy. One such program, Kids Who Care, is sent to fourth-grade educators in local schools. Szydlowski’s goal is to teach our youngest citizens how to approach animal welfare with creative solutions.
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my workspace
Szydlowski adopted three cats from PAWS and describes them as “the first thing I see in the morning, reminding me that PAWS is the reason they are in my life—gratitude is a powerful motivator!” His advice for anyone seeking a similar position is to “become a volunteer or intern at a nonprofit in their communications or marketing department, or offer to write a blog post on a relevant topic. The teams are usually small in number, so there is no shortage of work.”
FROM TOP PAWS’ Cat City is a cat-only adoption center. A thank you card is taped up next to a cat available for adoption at the facility.
When Szydlowski is not working on PAWS-related efforts, he’s out hiking, biking, kayaking and camping with his wife and kids. He also plays the guitar and collects rare and obscure instruments. Living a life with such gusto, Szydlowski holds firmly to some guiding principles: Value innovation and creativity, don’t be afraid to try new things and make mistakes where you can learn from any of those so-called failures.
MORE ONLINE
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Learn more about PAWS at www.paws.org
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# b a i n b r i d g e h o l i d ay s
Fall in Love Again and Again
Holiday Hustle
Come to Bainbridge Island for a romantic getaway where the beauty of the season is waiting for you. Celebrate your love in one of our cozy cottages or welcoming inns, hold hands over a glass of wine, indulge in delicious meals, and sneak a kiss on the beach. Bainbridge Island is your perfect romantic getaway.
C at c h o u r I s l a n d M a g i c
VISITBAINBRIDGEISLAND.ORG
Celebrate the Sun!
Join us for a weekend of family fun at the Sequim Sunshine Festival where we will shake off the winter blues and celebrate the coming of the spring and summer seasons with a color run, drone show, art projects, food, music, and more in Sunny Sequim, Washington!
h 6t ual n An
March 7 & 8, 2025
sequimsunshinefestival.com visitsunnysequim.com 1-800-737-8462
game changer
Herculean Effort Though a national park, Olympic National Park constantly needs to be saved from development and climate forces.
Olympic Park Advocates nonprofit helps safeguard a pristine piece of Washington written by Daniel O’Neil
IT MIGHT seem that Olympic National Park is safe and sound due to its federal status. It’s even a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Ever since the park’s creation in 1938, however, various challenges have threatened the park’s integrity. So, in 1948, conservationists responded with a nonprofit named Olympic Park Associates, now called Olympic Park Advocates. As a citizens’ conservation organization, OPA remains committed to protecting the wilderness and ecological integrity of Olympic National Park and its surrounding public lands. With donations from its members and from private donors, OPA also helps fund important projects, like fisher reintroduction and backcountry radio cameras, when the National Park Service budget comes up short. Over the decades, OPA has succeeded in many campaigns to keep Olympic National Park intact and healthy, such as defeating proposals to log river valleys like the Hoh or extend Highway 101 north along the coastline. OPA also collaborated with local tribes and other nonprofits in the push to remove the Elwah River dams and restore salmon habitat. Today, new troubles like climate change, diminishing glaciers, wildfire and overtourism keep OPA busy. OPA stays engaged in management decisions made by park officials and legislation, especially when citizen input is allowed. “We act as a sounding board for a lot of that information, passing it around to other environmental organizations 46
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and alerting our members about crucial issues that might otherwise be slipping under their vision,” said Tim McNulty, who has been a part of OPA since the 1970s and today serves as the group’s vice president. Guiding policy as a grassroots, all-volunteer entity requires deep commitment and perseverance. But by relying on donations instead of corporate funding, OPA manages to stay independent and say what it feels must be said. “The more spectacular the place, the more important it is that groups like ours stay active, willing and ready to challenge decisions and advocate for ecosystem processes,” McNulty said. OPA also gains reach by collaborating with like-minded interests. These include tribes from around the Olympic Peninsula and fellow conservation groups like the Sierra Club, the National Parks Conservation Association and the local Audubon Society. “Our focus is pretty narrowed, but when there’s a big issue coming to the fore, some of the larger organizations look to us to provide some of the groundwork and the critique,” McNulty said. “So I like to think that we hit a little
bit above our weight class. And we often take the initiative to draw their attention to specific issues in the Olympics as well.” The significant role OPA has played in protecting Olympic National Park over the last seventy-seven years is not lost on its partners. Rob Smith, Northwest regional director of the National Parks Conservation Association, sends plenty of praise to OPA. “Every park needs local advocates to protect it for future generations, and Olympic National Park is fortunate to have OPA,” Smith said. “Their longtime activists know the history, know the places, and will be there even as park managers come and go. Olympic’s wild coast, its deep forests and native wildlife remain, not because they have been overlooked or are remote, but because they have been and still are being actively defended.” Looking forward, OPA envisions Olympic National Park as a healthy ecosystem bolstered by its inherent natural vitality, but only if its constituent pieces and denizens remain present. Hence OPA’s work toward the reintroduction of key species like martens and, ideally, wolves. “Given the pressures underway with climate change,” McNulty said, “trying to restore, as much as possible, the original functioning complete ecosystem of the Olympics goes back to Aldo Leopold’s advice: The first rule of intelligent tinkering is to save all the parts.”
John Gussman
John Gussman
game changer
AT TOP The Glines Canyon Dam on the Elwah River in October 2011 during the dam-removal process. Olympic Park Advocates collaborated with local tribes and other nonprofits in the push to remove the Elwah River dams and restore salmon habitat. ABOVE A fisher is released in 2021 near the south fork of the Sol Duc River in the Sol Duc Valley.
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TAKE A
SNOW DAY Top Washington Ski Resorts + Where to Après-Ski Like a Local
written by Ryn Pfeuffer
Washington may not have the glitzy après-ski scene of Aspen or the Alps (the term “après-ski,” meaning “after skiing” in French, originated in the Alps during the 1950s), but it stands out with pristine slopes, unique terrain and more affordable lift tickets compared to flashy resorts like Whistler or the Rockies. With La Niña in full effect, snow junkies are thrilled for cooler, wetter conditions and a healthy snowpack. Instead of slopeside champagne toasts, Washington offers laid-back spots where skiers can wind down with a beer after a day on the mountain. Here’s where to head when the lifts stop spinning.
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The crux of après-skiing is a toast to a day well done. (photo: Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism)
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Dru Bru on Snoqualmie Pass is a great and cozy brewery for a craft beer after a day at The Summit at Snoqualmie. (photo: Carina Skrobecki Swain/State of Washington Tourism)
The Summit at Snoqualmie Big changes are happening at The Summit at Snoqualmie. Alpental’s new Internationale Chair, dubbed by Powder magazine as “one of the most highly anticipated lifts on the continent,” boosts uphill capacity by 25 percent and marks the ski area’s most significant upgrade since 1967. Over at Summit West, the Wildside lift now features a sleek quad chair and improved night skiing visibility with LED lights. After hitting the slopes, unwind at Dru Bru. This craft brewery serves a rotating lineup of beers, from hoppy IPAs to seasonal stouts, all brewed on site. Pair your pint with a woodfired pizza or a warm pretzel while soaking in the cozy atmosphere and mountain views.
Loup Loup Ski Bowl Loup Loup Ski Bowl in Okanogan County offers a fantastic deal—kids 12 and under ski free with a parent’s lift ticket all season. After skiing, unwind at Twisp’s Methow Valley Ciderhouse, where local beers, ciders, burgers and brats set the relaxed tone, or check out Omak’s taverns. For cross-country skiing, Methow Trails in Mazama is a mustvisit, featuring nearly 44 miles of scenic loops. The trails cater to all levels, with stunning views of Driveway Butte, sunlit meadows and the dramatic Go at Wall.
White Pass Ski Area White Pass Ski Area has added snowmaking machines on the lower mountain and expanded the Great White Express quad with thirteen new chairs
Enjoy a post-ski cider and burger at Methow Valley Ciderhouse. (photo: Methow Valley Ciderhouse)
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Plan Your Trip
FROM TOP Earning your après-ski dessert is a journey of beauty, such as at Crystal Mountain or with refreshing exercise on the Nordic trails at White Pass. (photos, from top: Christy Pelland/Crystal Mountain Resort, Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism)
SKI RESORTS 49° North Mountain Resort www.ski49n.com Crystal Mountain Resort www.crystal mountain resort.com Loup Loup Ski Bowl www.skithe loup.org Mission Ridge Ski & Board Resort www.mission ridge.com Mt. Baker Ski Area www.mtbaker.us
Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park www.mtspokane. com Stevens Pass Ski Resort www.stevens pass.com The Summit at Snoqualmie www.summitat snoqualmie.com White Pass Ski Area www.skiwhite pass.com
EAT & DRINK this season. After skiing, head to the Sitzmark Pub for a drink with local beers and wines. Bonus: It stays open later on nights with ski events. For a heartier meal, drive to Packwood and check out the Blue Spruce Saloon and Grill, serving pub fare like a legit tuna melt and bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin. Save your best Taylor Swift song for karaoke on Saturday nights.
49° North Mountain Resort After a day on the slopes at 49° North Mountain Resort, head to Boomtown Bar for après-ski fun. Enjoy live music on select weekends paired with jalapeño poppers, cheese curds or the Boomtown Burger and a cold beer. For a quieter vibe, Chewelah offers options like Sportsman’s Bar & Grill (or Sporty’s) for classic bar snacks, Oasis Tavern with karaoke nights or Quartzite Brewing Company, where ski pass holders score $1 off pints on Fridays.
Crystal Mountain Resort Crystal Mountain Resort is back on the Ikon Pass this season, offering unlimited access for the first time since 2021-22. Passholders get 15 percent off dining and retail, plus 25 percent off up to twelve friends and family tickets. The terrain is better than ever with improvements like regraded Upper Chappelle’s Run and new light poles on Tinkerbell. Plus, check out the new Mountain Commons Lodge with Brew 62 coffee, food hall and après at the Bootpack Bar.
Blue Spruce Saloon and Grill Blue Spruce Saloon and Grill on Facebook Chair 5 Pub www.mission ridge.com/dining Chair 9 www.chair9.com Dru Bru www.drubru.com/ snoqualmie-pass Gunners Tex Mex BBQ www.gunners bbq.net Maggy’s Family Mexican Restaurant www.maggys familymexican restaurant wa.com Methow Valley Ciderhouse www.methow valleycider housellc.com The North Fork Brewery www.northfork brewery.com
Oasis Tavern Oasis Tavern on Facebook Pybus Public Market www.pybuspublic market.org Quartzite Brewing Co. www.facebook. com/quartzite brewco Sitzmark Pub www.skiwhite pass.com/lodgingand-dining Snorting Elk Cellar at Crystal Mountain www.crystal hotels.com/ the-snorting-elkcellar-at-crystalmountain Sportsman’s Bar & Grill www.sportys chewelah.com Squirrel Tree Restaurant www.thesquirrel tree.com Whistling Post Saloon (360) 677-2111
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Mt. Baker Ski Area Mt. Baker Ski Area, famed for its deep snowpack, kicks off the season with a gift for families— fifth graders ski free all season. After a day on the slopes, head to Glacier for après-ski eats like Chair 9’s build-your-own nachos or Gunners Tex Mex BBQ’s tacos and smoked Old Fashioneds. Closer to Bellingham, The North Fork Brewery in Deming serves up happy hour deals, pizza slices and hearty daily specials like stromboli and meatball subs.
Go for the tacos at Gunners Tex Mex BBQ in the small town of Glacier, just outside of Mt. Baker Ski Area. (photo: Gunners Tex Mex BBQ)
Bring the Après-Ski Vibes Home There is no need for lift tickets to enjoy the aprèsski lifestyle. Here’s how to transform your home into a charming alpine retreat:
Set the Tone: Create a playlist with festive holiday tunes or upbeat EDM for a chic ski-party feel. Fireside Ambiance: Light a fireplace or outdoor fire pit, or cue up a virtual fireplace on YouTube.
Mission Ridge Ski & Board Resort If you’re heading to Mission Ridge, you’re in for an early treat—this year, they started spinning lifts as soon as they legally could, with snow that feels more like mid-January! After a day on the slopes, you’ve got a couple of great après-ski options. Chair 5 Pub at the resort is cozy, with great food and drinks. If you’re there for night skiing, don’t miss Brewer’s Nights with local craft beer tastings. Or head into Wenatchee to check out Pybus Public Market for craft beers, cocktails and live music with Columbia River views.
Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park Skiers can unwind at several nearby spots after a day on the slopes at Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park. While the resort itself doesn’t have a major après-ski scene, the surrounding
Spokane area offers some excellent options. At the base of the mountain, the Ski Hill Grill provides a casual atmosphere where skiers can grab a bite and sip a drink, often with a view of the slopes. If you’re heading into Spokane, the Moon Time Pub & Grill is a local favorite for its laid-back vibe and hearty menu, offering a great spot to relax with a drink.
Stevens Pass Ski Resort Stevens Pass is a small, family-friendly hill with great snow, 1,100 acres of exciting terrain and night skiing. Recently acquired by Vail Resorts, it’s now Epic, so grab an Epic Local pass for unlimited access. After a day on the slopes, skip the traffic and head to Skykomish’s Whistling Post Saloon for fried chicken and jojos or Maggy’s Family Mexican Restaurant in Gold Bar for Tex-Mex and margaritas. If you’re headed east, stop by Squirrel Tree Restaurant at Cole’s Corner—the tots are legendary.
Warm Decor: Deck out your living space with ski-inspired accents, fairy lights, furry pillows, snowflakes and mason jars filled with twinkling lights. Add fragrant candles and mini pine trees for an alpine touch. Elegant Tablescapes: Style your dinner table with pinecones, branches and candles for a natureinspired setting. Swiss-Inspired Menu: Serve fondue and raclette featuring key Swiss ingredients like cheese and chocolate. Write the menu on a small blackboard for a bistro vibe. Warm Drinks: Sip on spiced wine or hot cocoa for the kids, complete with marshmallows. Outdoor Fun: Take a brisk walk or play in the snow to mimic the feeling of a day on the slopes. Ski-Chic Fashion: Snuggle up in beanies, fuzzy socks and winter accessories to complete the look.
ABOVE Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park is just outside of Spokane, which has a lively bourbon and burger scene for après-ski done well. (photo: Lindsey Bangsberg/Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park)
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The majestic bighorn sheep, once more prevalent than deer in this region.
The Fate of Bighorn Sheep The race against the pathogen M.ovi, which threatens bighorn herds of the Northwest written by Lauren Kramer
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I
t’s a crisp, cold December morning in Hells Canyon, and from the helicopter, Taylor Chism, an animal capture specialist, scans the steep, rugged terrain, watching for bighorn sheep. When she spots the herd, pilot Jim Pope, owner of Leading Edge Aviation, carefully maneuvers the chopper to corral them and begins his descent. At 15 feet above ground, the gunner readies a modified shotgun containing a weighted net. Aiming at a large bighorn, they shoot, and the net entangles the animal on the spot. As the helicopter hovers a couple of feet from the ground, the 26-year-old jumps to the ground to begin her work. In this environment, where captured wildlife can quickly get stressed and overheated, every minute counts, and Chism must act fast. Her first task is to untangle the sheep from the net, hobble it by binding its back and front legs together, and blindfold it. Positioning herself near the sheep’s rear end, where she’s least likely to get kicked and injured, she straps a GPS collar around its neck so biologists can track its location, draws blood and takes nasal swabs that will be sent to a lab. The procedure takes six to eight minutes, and during that time she continually monitors the sheep’s temperature to ensure it doesn’t overheat. After collecting the final swab, she removes the blindfold and leg constraints, and the animal beats a hasty retreat to rejoin the herd. It’s a good day for the crew of animal capture specialists in Hells Canyon, and by dusk, as they’re headed home, they have collared and swabbed seven bighorns, returning with a few scrapes and bruises, their clothes pungent with the smell of wildlife. What the bighorns don’t know is that their herds’ future is in the balance. Those swabs will be tested for Mycoplasma ovipneumoniae, or M.ovi for short, a pathogen associated with fatal pneumonia in bighorn sheep. Those that test positive twice over a period of two years will be tracked and euthanized or moved to captivity for research, to protect the rest of the herd from a virulent bacterium that is decimating their population. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
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A helicopter moves a pair of bighorn sheep after M.ovi testing. (photo: Taylor Chism)
B
ighorn sheep are an iconic species in the Pacific Northwest. Drive along a highway in the Yakima Canyon or float down the Columbia River, and you can often see them feeding quietly on steep, rocky terrain, butting heads or rutting in mating season. In Washington, today’s herds number just fewer than 1,700 sheep, but in centuries past, there were tens of thousands of them.
“The populations we have now are just vestiges of what they once were and what our land can support,” said Frances Cassirer, wildlife research biologist for Idaho Fish and Game. “Mount Mazama, in the Cascade Range, erupted 7,700 years ago, and there are bighorn sheep bones below that ash. Archeological digs were done in Hells Canyon, and the most common bone found was bighorn sheep, even more than deer. Early settlers in the canyon also reported bighorn sheep as the most common ungulate. We know that for thousands of years bighorn sheep lived here and were an important part of tribal culture. But now, we consider them uncommon. In the last couple hundred years, they’ve almost disappeared.” Highly contagious, M.ovi is one of the biggest threats facing the seventeen herds of bighorn sheep in Washington today. Bighorns are highly susceptible to respiratory disease, but they’re especially vulnerable to M.ovi, a pathogen that is not native to North America. “We have four herds of bighorn sheep in Yakima County, and all of them have M.ovi carriers,” noted William Moore, an ungulate specialist for the Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife. “We found it in one herd in 2009, another in 2013 and a third in 2020.” In 2019, DFW identified M.ovi in a herd in Okanagan County, just outside of Omak, and in December 2023, it was detected in herds in Hells Canyon, too. When members of a herd are first infected with M.ovi, a disease outbreak spreads across all ages. Fatalities can range from killing only 5 to 10 percent to up to 80 percent of the herd. Of the animals that remain, some will have been exposed to the pathogen but are resistant to it. Others—between 5 and 15 percent—become chronic carriers, retaining the pathogen in their respiratory system and spreading it to others in the herd that were not initially exposed. This is particularly threatening to the annual lamb cohort. “When newborn lambs are exposed to M.ovi from a chronic 56
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carrier, most of them don’t survive their first year,” Moore said. In wildlife terms, “lamb recruitment” refers to survival rates. A 50 percent survival rate is considered good lamb recruitment, while bad hovers around just 10 percent. “As long as there are chronic carriers in the population, this cycle can continue for years and years.” Bighorns are very social animals, and as a result, M.ovi is able to spread quickly. The herds raise their lambs in a nursery environment akin to human daycare, so when the lambs get sick, the bacteria infects the entire nursery in no time at all. “Typically lamb recruitment is poor, meaning, producing fewer lambs than you’re losing in adults,” Moore said. “That’s the crushing part of this disease—the lambs born each year are succumbing to pneumonia, so the population never stabilizes. Without intervention, it’s a slow death to the population.”
Biologists and naturalists have known for a century that bighorn sheep are susceptible to pneumonia. What they didn’t know until 2006, when Washington State University microbiologist Dr. Tom Besser joined the research team, was exactly what was causing it. “Over the last hundred years, there have been many reports of people seeing dead sheep on the hill,” said Cassirer, a top researcher on M.ovi and its effects on the bighorn. She was hired back in 1995 to try and accelerate the restoration of the Hells Canyon herd populations. The effort fell under the Hells Canyon Initiative, a collaborative effort between wildlife agencies and organizations in Washington, Oregon and Idaho. “State wildlife agencies wanted to bring back the bighorn herds that were extirpated by unregulated hunting and disease in the late 1800s to early 1900s,” she said. “While this wasn’t
A bighorn sheep receives a nasal swab to test for M.ovi. (photo: Anna Boyle)
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intended to be a disease project, the more we worked on restoring the sheep, the more we realized that disease was the biggest limiting factor.” In early experiments, when domestic sheep and bighorn sheep were put in the same pen, the bighorns died. “We’ve known for a while that there’s something domestic sheep carry to which bighorns have little resistance,” she said. “But it took a long time to understand exactly what that was.” In recent years, biologists have identified bighorn sheep interaction with domestic sheep and goats as the source of the pathogen’s transmission. Both wild and domestic sheep and goats are gregarious, and don’t shy away from interacting with each other. But while domestic herds have immune resistance to the effects of M.ovi, wild herds do not. All it takes is a sneeze or nose-to-nose contact to transmit M.ovi.
T
HERE IS NO effective treatment or vaccine for M.ovi that will stop transmission, but there are two, equally important solutions, both fraught with challenges. One is to eliminate M.ovi from a herd, a strategy the DFW has adopted with “test and remove.” That’s logistically challenging given the number of bighorn sheep and the complexities of catching and testing each one in terrain and weather conditions that are often inhospitable.
“Initially, recommendations were to test 95 percent of the herd and to capture and test them twice,” Moore said. “Today we’re trying to optimize our test and remove strategy by using data to determine the herds’ interaction. We can track bighorn sheep interactions with their GPS collars, and by knowing how the populations are interacting, we can test more effectively.” Test and remove is underway in bighorn sheep herds in the Hells Canyon herd, the Umtanum herd in Yakima County and the Cleman Mountain herd in Kittitas County. Moore’s team is planning new test and remove projects in the Mount Hall herd in Okanagan County, near Omak, in two years’ time. The strategy has been effective in the past in Hells Canyon, where 850 bighorns reside in sixteen herds that traverse 5.6 million acres of land in Washington, Idaho and Oregon. “Hells Canyon was one of the places where test and remove was first tried, starting in 2012, after over a decade of research into infection and low lamb survival,” Cassirer said. “Five carriers were removed in 2015 and placed in captive research facilities. After that, those Washington herds were M.ovi-free until 2024, when a new strain of M.ovi occurred in Hells Canyon. We hope to do the same on this round to gain a better understanding of why some sheep are chronic carriers and how to better identify them to minimize the amount of capture and testing.”
Bighorn sheep lambs are more at risk to M.ovi than their elders. (photo: Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife)
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Equally important in stopping M.ovi transmission is preventing interactions between wild sheep and domestic herds of sheep and goats. That’s difficult, given that they’re close relatives and are socially attracted to each other. Many domestic herds in the state are held on unfenced private land in close proximity to wild sheep habitat, and bighorn sheep, naturally forayers, like to roam. How do you ensure complete separation of herds in a natural environment such that they never interact? “It’s especially difficult because in Washington state we have rural and agricultural areas abutted right next to our bighorn sheep habitat,” Moore said. “Most of our bighorn sheep populations reside next to Omak, Naches, Selah, Ellensburg, Wenatchee, Chelan and Asotin. Separating wild sheep and domestic sheep and goats is crucial.” There were 45,000 sheep and lambs in Washington in 2024 and 25,000 goats, according to data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. When domestic sheep and goats contract M.ovi, the bacteria causes mild weight loss and coughing, but frequently goes unnoticed. To maintain separation between domestic sheep grazing allotments and wild sheep habitat, the U.S. Forest Service has moved or closed grazing allotments in some places to reduce the possibility of interaction. Other steps relate to private land, where owners of small flocks of domestic sheep and goats live in proximity to wild sheep. Here, it’s all about education and outreach, an effort Carrie Kyle is heading up for the DFW. She is involved in education and outreach programs with the conservation district in the hells canyon area, as well as in the North-Central populations. “I’m doing presentations and working in different areas with the Grange, the National FFA Organization and other youth groups,” Kyle said, “but first we’re just trying to figure out where the small flock owners are, that are close to our bighorn areas.” “Our goal is to build connections with kids and their parents who are raising sheep and goats, so that we can get the word out that we have M.ovi in our bighorn sheep populations. A lot of people don’t know that,” she added. “As people become educated about this issue, the situation will become manageable, because the fact is, we can have wild and domestic herds—we just have to be cognizant about this pathogen and diligent about keeping them separated.” These efforts are running parallel with those of biologists, who are racing against the clock to learn more about M.ovi transmission. “Why are some bighorn sheep carriers of M.ovi, and others not?” asked Cassirer. “If we had more information on who is likely to be a chronic carrier, we could focus our efforts on testing just those individuals. Right now, there’s often just random testing, or testing of the whole population, which is not feasible in a lot of places.” The importance of separating wild sheep from domestic sheep and goats can’t be underestimated, she said. “The safest
We have the potential to fix this problem if we put our minds to it, but for bighorns to stay healthy, it’s going to take help from the communities that reside in areas that have bighorn sheep. If we give them a chance and put some hard work into this, we could see rebounding populations.” — Frances Cassirer, Idaho Fish and Game wildlife research biologist
thing is not to have domestic herds of sheep or goats, if you’re in bighorn habitat. But if you do have them, put your sheep inside a pen at night. Build good fences. Participate in a testing program like the one Washington offers and be aware if your animals are carriers of M.ovi.” The future for bighorn sheep hangs in the balance, and Cassirer said it could go either way—the bighorn populations could be completely depleted, or they could recover. “We have the potential to fix this problem if we put our minds to it, but for bighorns to stay healthy, it’s going to take help from the communities that reside in areas that have bighorn sheep. If we give them a chance and put some hard work into this, we could see rebounding populations,” she said. Moore and his team are devoting their energies and budget precisely to this solution. “Bighorns provide a really excellent, accessible wildlife viewing opportunity in our state, and we are working hard to maintain these species for now and for future generations,” he said. “If we work together to try and keep these animals separated from domestic herds, we have a chance at keeping our bighorn sheep populations safe from possible extinction.” FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
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TRASH-TO-TREASURE OCEAN ART SENDS A MESSAGE
written by Kerry Newberry
FOR DECADES, Karen Hackenberg’s artwork has illuminated the extreme environmental impact of human activity on oceans and sea creatures. She finds endless inspiration on the beaches near her home in Port Townsend, where she transforms all too common beach debris—plastic bottles, cans, detergent containers—into seascapes that are both playful and perturbing. Using traditional mediums such as oil and gouache, her paintings address human consumption, marine pollution and ocean degradation with supreme humor and creativity. In our fast-paced world, her striking seascapes stop the scroll and provoke reflection—and hopefully, change. You can explore approximately forty pieces of her work through April 6 at the Tacoma Art Museum with her solo exhibit, Sea Change: The Art of Karen Hackenberg. Or visit Patricia Rovzar Gallery in Seattle, where her work appears with other impactful artists transforming the way we see the world.
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FROM LEFT The Floating World, 2015, from the series Floating World, oil on canvas, Hallie Ford Museum of Art, Willamette University, The Bill Rhoades Collection—A Gift in Memory of Murna and Vay Rhoades, 2016.011 (photo: Hallie Ford Museum of Art, courtesy of Tacoma Art Museum) Fatal If Swallowed, 2021, from the series Unnatural Disasters, oil on canvas (photo: Courtesy of Patricia Rovzar Gallery)
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Orca Pod, 2016, from the series History Painting, oil on canvas, Tacoma Art Museum, Gift of Collect 21NW, 2016, 2016.10.3 (photo: Courtesy of Tacoma Art Museum) Theory of Evolution, 2019, oil on canvas (photo: Courtesy of Patricia Rovzar Gallery) Artist Karen Hackenberg. (photo: Courtesy of Patricia Rovzar Gallery)
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FROM LEFT Balancing Act, 2023, oil on canvas (photo: Courtesy of Patricia Rovzar Gallery) Flood Tide, 2018, oil on canvas (photo: Courtesy of Patricia Rovzar Gallery)
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ADVENTURE 70 LODGING 74 TRIP PLANNER 76 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 82
pg. 76 Find trails, bird watching, oysters and more on a Hood Canal road trip.
explorehoodcanal.com
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Discover Nature's Splendor at Mount Rainier National Park CHASE CASCADING WATERFALLS AND WANDER WONDERFUL TRAILS Mount Rainier National Park is a place of transformation, where snowmelt fuels powerful waterfalls, and hiking trails reveal their vibrant beauty. Discover iconic cascades like the 72-foot-high Myrtle Falls, the Narada Falls, and the Christine Falls, with their rushing waters framed by lush greenery and dramatic rock formations. Each trail offers a chance to get close to the action, with the sound of waterfalls creating a backdrop for an unforgettable adventure. As you hike, look for blooming avalanche lilies along the trails, their bright white petals adding to the breathtaking scenery. The trails are alive with fresh air, stunning views, and the promise of discovery around every corner. Whether you’re chasing waterfalls or enjoying a peaceful walk, join us for an adventure that will leave you inspired and connected to the beauty of Mount Rainier.
DiscoverMountRainier.com Hotel Reservations: (855) 755-2275 PARADISE INN 52807 Paradise Road E
NATIONAL PARK INN 47009 Paradise Road E
Ashford, WA 98304 Visit our website for availability. Dates and times for our holiday specials are available online.
MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
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1899 - 2024
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Yakima Valley Tourism
travel spotlight
A Wild West Time Capsule
While many of the murals around Toppenish are created in a day, they depict a long history written by Joni Kabana PULL INTO the town of Toppenish, and you will feel like you have stepped back to the days when horses were saddled up to posts, men sported wide-brimmed hats and women wore their dresses long and shoelaces tied up over the ankle. Everywhere you look, there are large-scale murals painted on the sides of buildings, many painted in one day. That’s right—a mural is painted in one day (usually by several artists) as part of their Mural-In-A-Day series, which started in 1989 with the first mural, Clearing The Land. A group of citizens who form the Mural Society meet monthly to commission a new mural, which will be painted on the first Saturday of each June. Stroll along the streets and down alleys, and you will see such subjects as an old blacksmith shop, powwows, old-style “house calls,” Native American winter encampments and many more scenes from the Wild West days. Each mural is created with private donations and support only; no public or tax dollars are used to pay for the displays. Strict guidelines, set by the Mural Society board, ensure each artist adheres to the goal of reflecting historically accurate area details found around 1840 to 1940. A rigorous development process ensues, with periodic check-ins along the way before the painting is erected and people “come to watch the paint dry.” Stop by the Toppenish Chamber of Commerce’s Visitor Center to view original artist concept paintings and to pick up a map (you’re going to need one) so you don’t miss any of these time capsule creations. After completing the tour, you might even want to circle back one more time, because it is pretty much guaranteed you will miss something the first time through. The Toppenish Mural-in-aDay program began in 1989 and is run by a citizen board.
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MORE ONLINE
To start planning your tour, visit www.bit.ly/toppenishmuralmap for an online guide to Toppenish’s murals.
Travel Baker County
encourages tourism in Baker County which is a scenic region of eastern Oregon, known for its natural beauty, historic sites, and outdoor recreation. Our website features information on local attractions, events, lodging, and dining options. We also maintain an active presence on social media, using Facebook and Instagram to share photos, videos, and updates about events and activities happening in the region. We aim to appeal to a wide variety of visitors, from families and outdoor enthusiasts to history buffs and foodies. Whether you're a firsttime visitor or a seasoned traveler, we are a valuable resource for discovering the best of eastern Oregon. TravelBakerCounty.com
The National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center offers living history demonstrations, interpretive programs, exhibits, multi-media presentations, special events, and more than four miles of interpretive trails. Using life-size displays, films and live theater presentations, this Center tells the story of Oregon Trail pioneers, explorers, miners and settlers of the frontier west. The 500-acre site includes remnants of the historic Flagstaff Gold Mine, actual ruts carved by pioneer wagons, and magnificent vistas of the historic trail route.
adventure
Points along the river trail offer views of the snow-laden, 7,000-foottall Cascades looming just beyond the town and that look as tempting as the sugar-dusted pastries of local bakeries.
Pretzels and Powder Experience Leavenworth’s beauty and history on showshoes— and without the crowds FOLLOWING a lederhosen-clad fellow into deep, fresh powder through the woods, you pause to pluck a warm Bavarian pretzel from your daypack and take a satisfying bite. Licking salt from your lips, you snowshoe along the river toward a village of inns and shops with gingerbread gables and intricately carved balconies surrounded by an alpine landscape. A Black Forest frolic? Nein. Leavenworth’s new Bavarian Snowshoe Tours let you soak up local history, from the Native P’squosa, or Wenatchi, people, on to its surprising European-style transformation. “We dive into the Great Northern Railroad that went from Minnesota to Washington, how Leavenworth was one of the booming logging towns on the West Coast and why Leavenworth is a Bavarian village,” said Tom Potter, founder and guide of Bavarian Walking Tours. (Hint: The milieu involves a skier and entrepreneur who’d been stationed in Germany during World War II.) Winter and a set of snowshoes offer access to much of the frosty, icicle-laden trail of the Wenatchee River, a major tributary of the Columbia River. “In the springtime, the river goes huge—sometimes the trails that we’re walking on are actually under water,” said Potter, who dons long or short lederhosen depending on the season. Points along the river trail offer views of the snow-laden, 7,000-foot-tall Cascades looming just beyond the town and that look as tempting as the sugar-dusted pastries of local bakeries. The ninetyminute outing covers about a mile and 150 years of history—easily accessible to a range of abilities and with sleds for parents to tow along kids. The tour wraps up with warming up at a winery tasting room for glühwein, a German spiced wine served hot, or spiced cider. The quieter, post-holiday season is ideal for exploring on snowshoes and off. The snowshoe tours run through March 31 (provided the snow lasts), and guides offer tips for venturing beyond the usual path (three blocks of Bavaria, a couple shops and a German beer) with recommendations for families, couples or adventure seekers. 70
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Bavarian Walking Tours
written by Cathy Carroll
Bavarian Walking Tours co-owners and guides Coco Hopkins (left) and Tom Potter (right) lead a snowshoe tour in Leavenworth.
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More Leavenworth-area snowshoeing trails to try range from easy to difficult, including: LEAVENWORTH SKI HILL SNOWSHOEING TRAILS
Level: Easy, ungroomed
Just 2 miles from downtown Leavenworth, the snowshoe trail is a great alternative to backcountry expeditions. The trail from the base area treats you to views of the Bakke Hill Ski Jump and the town of Leavenworth. More fun includes two rope tows for alpine skiing, Nordic ski trails that are lit at night, a tubing hill and groomed singletrack for fat-biking.
Dogs: Not allowed
ICICLE RIVER SNOWSHOE ADVENTURE TRAIL
Level: Easy
Level: Easy
Round-trip distance: 1 to 5 miles
Round-trip distance: 3 miles
Round-trip time: 1 hour to 90 minutes
Round-trip time: 1 hour to 90 minutes
Dogs: Not allowed
Dogs: Not allowed
Permits: Leavenworth Winter Sports Club snowshoeing pass and $10 trail fee
Permits: Trail fee is $12
Note: Snowshoeing is not allowed on the groomed skiing surface.
CHIWAUKUM CREEK Here you’ll gain tranquility and insight into chiwaukum, the Native Wenatchee word that means “many little creeks running into one big one,” as you ramble along a creek under a canopy of Douglas fir and ponderosa pine. Level: Difficult, ungroomed Round-trip distance: 11 miles, or do a shorter out-and-back Round-trip time: 6 hours Dogs: Not allowed Permits: Not required
HATCHERY CREEK This less-traveled trail rewards with views of snowy mountains beyond a lake. Be aware of a rough section that’s avalanche prone after heavy snowfalls.
MORE ONLINE
Round-trip distance: 5 miles Round-trip time: 3 hours Permits: Not required
This beloved trail winds through forests, meadows and dense thickets that lead close to Icicle Creek.
Note: No snowshoeing is allowed on the groomed skiing section of the Icicle River Trail.
ICICLE ROAD Take the slow climb up Icicle Creek Valley for lofty views of Grindstone Mountain and peaceful Icicle Creek. Share the trail with snowshoers, skiers, snowmobilers and dogsledders. The Native American name for the creek was Nasikelt. As pronounced, it sounds similar to icicle, and according to legend, pioneers named it thusly. The name Icicle was established by United States Geological Survey maps in the early 1900s. The valley is aptly named as impressive icicles hang from steep cliffs lining the road. Level: Easy, ungroomed Round-trip distance: 5 miles Round-trip time: 1 hour Dogs: Not allowed Permits: Not required
Find more trail details at www.leavenworth.org/trails, or plan an outing with Bavarian Walking Tours at www.bavarianwalkingtours.com
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Icicle TV
adventure
adventure
Snowshoeing in Leavenworth beneath the splendor of the Cascade peaks.
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Photos: Friday Harbor House
ACCOMMODATIONS
Cozy up next to an in-room gas fireplace at Friday Harbor House.
Lodging
Friday Harbor House written by Lauren Kramer TAKE A DESERTED, log-strewn beach littered with kelp. Add a scenic byway where pastoral fields yield to jaw-dropping ocean views, and toss in meals lovingly crafted with island-grown produce. Now add a boutique hotel where harborside views calm the soul and jetted in-room tubs massage sore muscles. The venue is Friday Harbor House, and the result is the ultimate Pacific Northwest weekend. Perched on a bluff overlooking the most picturesque harbor in the San Juans, this deluxe, twenty-three-room hotel feels intimate, cozy and deeply peaceful. Built in 1995, it came under new ownership in 2015, and one of its six owning partners is John Oppenheimer, founder of Seattle-based Columbia Hospitality. 130 WEST ST. FRIDAY HARBOR www.fridayharborhouse.com
The suites at Friday Harbor House feature gas fireplaces, flat-screen televisions and tea and coffee-making facilities with Chemex pour-over coffee brewed on San Juan Island. The large, jetted in-room tubs, with bath salts at the ready, are a treat on a cold winter’s night, but the bathrooms also have walk-in showers with premium L’Occitane bathing products. Our room came with a deck overlooking the harbor and the San Juan Channel, a view that was captivating day and night. And if there was a prize for the best hotel bathrobes, this hotel would take first place for its decadently soft gowns.
DINING The Restaurant at Friday Harbor House serves breakfast daily and dinner Friday through Tuesday in the winter. The twenty-seven-seat dining room trebles in size in the summer, when the adjoining outdoor deck is open, giving guests enviable views of the bay and the boat and ferry traffic plying the harbor. The menu offers a selection of American fare including burgers, halibut, short rib and mussels. In the summer months, a raw bar adds a second, casual food offering with outdoor seating.
AMENITIES Guests can mingle outside on the Adirondack chairs overlooking the harbor, where gas fire pits are lit on request. Complimentary coffee is available in the mornings, and free snacks and drinks are laid out on the third floor in the afternoons.
DON’T MISS
Friday Harbor House is a calming respite with views of the San Juan Channel.
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The easily walkable town of Friday Harbor has everything you need to keep busy for a weekend away: bookstores where you can steep yourself in literature, two theatres, museums of art and history and a delightful array of gift and apparel shops. Be sure to stop at San Juan Island Sea Salt to explore its many unique, saltinfused products. Salty at Heart Island Apothecary is another gem of a store, selling natural remedies and made-inWashington skin products, with a courtyard canopied by an iconic, 125-year-old camperdown elm tree.
bellingham.org
YOUR NW TRADITION Escape to the glacier-carved shores of Hood Canal.
trip planner
A placid day on Hood Canal from the vantage of Mount Walker.
Hood Canal At the foot of the Olympic Mountains and in the heart of oyster culture IMAGINE A PLACE WHERE the majestic Olympic Mountains meet the waters of the only fjord in the continental United States. Welcome to Hood Canal. Whether hiking through lush forests, indulging in a seafood feast or holed up in a cozy retreat, every moment of this getaway invites you to slow down and surrender to the beauty and small-town charm of Hood Canal. 76
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explorehoodcanal.com
written by Ryn Pfeuffer
HOOD CANAL | OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK & FOREST (THE WILD SIDE)
Dreaming of the perfect escape? Welcome to the wild side of Washington. Less than two hours from Seattle or Portland, but a world away from the ordinary.
TAKE A MOMENT TO ADMIRE THE VIEW WITH WAYLON (THE DOG). HOW DO YOU RECHARGE? Scuba? Climbing? Kayaking? Fishing? Or maybe just enjoying oysters picked fresh from the beach. What our area lacks in big hotel chains (none) we make up with spectacular hikes, friendly restaurants serving locally-sourced seafood and unique lodging nestled in the woods or clinging to our fjord shores.
And our events? Whatever the Northwest weather throws at us, we’ve got music & celebrations all year long that will be sure to make your family feel part of our family. Embark on the ultimate road trip and find yourself on Hood Canal. Download our FREE itinerary guides now and start planning your next adventure.
Call toll free 866-922-7469 or visit explorehoodcanal.com for information. Download the WildsideWA APP in your Apple or Google Play Store for updates & maps!
Alderbrook Resort & Spa
Alderbrook Resort on Hood Canal offers a serene retreat from reality’s bustle.
Day MOCHI DONUTS • HARBOR HISTORY • A WATERFRONT RETREAT
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escape. With amenities like restrooms, showers and fire pits, plus easy access to Hood Canal for swimming, boating and seasonal shellfish harvesting, it’s a camper’s dream—just be sure to book ahead via the Washington State Parks reservation system, and don’t forget your Discover Pass. Settle in for the night at Alderbrook Resort & Spa in Union, a shoreside retreat that epitomizes Pacific Northwest luxury. Whether you choose a pet-friendly cottage or a waterfront room with a fireplace, the resort’s amenities ensure a relaxing stay. Families can enjoy lawn games and beachcombing, while couples might prefer an indulgent visit to the spa or a soothing soak in the indoor saltwater pool. Dine at the on-site restaurant, where locally sourced dishes like Salish Sea manila clams or Dungeness crab cakes with nori aioli shine alongside craft cocktails and Washington wines.
Visit Gig Harbor
Your adventure begins just south of Seattle in the picturesque town of Gig Harbor. Cross the Tacoma Narrows Bridge and make a beeline to Milkvue Handcrafted Donuts, a local gem pairing mochi donuts with Olympia Coffee. Mochi donuts, popular across Asia, are made with sweet, glutinous rice flour, creating a crisp crust and a soft, slightly chewy interior. With flavors like pandan coconut, ube or black sesame, these treats are almost too pretty to eat. After breakfast, head to Gig Harbor’s downtown waterfront to visit the Harbor History Museum. This regional museum offers a window into the area’s maritime and cultural history, with artifacts ranging from the remains of the original Tacoma Narrows Bridge (nicknamed “Galloping Gertie”) to quirky entries from the town’s annual roundest rock contest. The museum is free to visit and offers a thoughtful, hands-on look at the people, places and stories that shaped the region. When hunger strikes, stop by Netshed No. 9 for brunch. Located in a tucked-away spot along the harbor, this locally loved eatery serves dishes like tangy lemon curd French toast and decadent cast-iron cinnamon rolls. The outdoor deck, tented and heated during cooler months, offers one of the best dining views in the area—a serene harbor dotted with boats. Take time to wander Gig Harbor’s boutiques and galleries before continuing westward. As you leave the urban sprawl behind, the road narrows, and the scenery transitions to the forested charm of Hood Canal. Along State Route 106, you’ll catch glimpses of quaint waterfront cottages and birdlife flitting through Twanoh State Park, particularly active during the November-to-April birding season. Twanoh State Park offers twenty-five tent sites and twenty-two RV sites with partial hookups, all tucked beneath lush trees for a peaceful, shaded
The picturesque waterfront of Gig Harbor. Make your own painting or buy one from a local artist at the many galleries downtown.
Visit Gig Harbor
The boutiques and other shops in Gig Harbor, alone, could take a full day of exploring.
trip planner
Day TRAILS • OYSTERS • BIRD WATCHING
explorehoodcanal.com
Start with a fresh perspective on your second day by exploring the resort’s trails. These pathways, complete with boardwalks and footbridges, weave through the property and offer striking views of the surrounding forest and water. For something unique, pick up an activity guide from the lobby and try forest bathing or geocaching—both excellent ways to connect with nature. For a scenic drive, head north on Highway 101. Just fifteen minutes from Union, you’ll find Stottle Winery in Hoodsport, where you can sip bold, locally crafted wines—especially cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah—while kids play in the outdoor seating area. Another fifteen minutes up the road takes you to Hama Hama Oyster Farm, a haven for shellfish lovers. The Oyster Saloon serves roasted oysters in chipotle bourbon butter and other delicious bites in a cozy, rustic setting. Reservations are recommended for the A-frame cabins right on the water’s edge, offering an experience that’s both romantic and family-friendly. After lunch, consider exploring Dosewallips State Park. This park’s tidal flats and estuaries are prime bird watching spots, and its rustic cabins offer a cozy overnight option. Families can search for starfish and crabs in tide pools while couples enjoy peaceful shoreline walks with views of moss-draped evergreens. As you round Dabob Bay, the landscape shifts to even more dramatic vistas. The Olympic Loop of the Audubon Great Washington State Birding Trail includes highlights like the Big Quilcene River Estuary and Hamma Hamma Beaver Pond. This roughly 80-mile-long loop offers year-round bird watching across diverse habitats, from coastal wetlands to old-growth forests. Spot bald eagles soaring over estuaries, great blue herons wading in tidal flats and black oystercatchers on rocky shores. Forests echo with the calls of varied thrushes, pileated
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Jackie Dodd
explorehoodcanal.com
HOOD CANAL, WASHINGTON
trip planner
woodpeckers and migrating warblers, while wetlands teem with ducks, sandpipers and kingfishers. Keep an eye out for rare marbled murrelets offshore and northern goshawks in the highlands, making this loop a must-stop for birders of all levels. For those who prefer to stretch their legs, the Triton Cove State Park trails offer accessible, easy walks ideal for all ages, making them ideal for a quick nature escape or a quiet picnic. At Triton Cove, a flat path winds along the waterfront with stunning Hood Canal views and access to tide pools, perfect for bird watching or spotting seals.
EAT Hama Hama Oyster Saloon www.hamahamaoysters.com Milkvue Handcrafted Donuts www.instagram.com/milkvue Netshed No. 9 www.netshed9.com The Restaurant at Alderbrook www.alderbrookresort.com/ culinary/the-restaurant Stottle Winery www.stottlewinery.com Union City Market www.unioncitymarket.com
STAY Alderbrook Resort & Spa www.alderbrookresort.com
PLAY Dosewallips State Park www.parks.wa.gov/find-parks/ state-parks/dosewallips-state-park Harbor History Museum www.harborhistorymuseum.org The Great Washington State Birding Trail—Olympic Loop www.bit.ly/olympicloopbirdingtrail Triton Cove State Park www.parks.wa.gov/find-parks/ state-parks/triton-cove-state-park Twanoh State Park www.parks.wa.gov/find-parks/ state-parks/twanoh-state-park
Day
Alderbrook Resort & Spa
PACK A PICNIC • FARM STORES • CATCH THE FERRY By your final day, you may want to linger over breakfast at Alderbrook’s restaurant before hitting the road. Alternatively, pack a picnic from Union City Market, and take your time driving back along Highway 101. During the summer, Union City Market hosts Canal Cookouts—chef-prepared, beachside feasts highlighting locally sourced, seasonal delights. If you have extra time, consider stopping in Quilcene to explore the area’s darling farm stores or extending your trip to Port Townsend, a Victorian seaport filled with quirky shops and more fantastic waterfront views. Otherwise, head back to Seattle via the Hood Canal Floating Bridge—an impressive engineering feat connecting the peninsula to the mainland—and catch the Kingston ferry to Edmonds. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
BOTTOM LEFT Dosewallips State Park is an idyllic setting where you can find birds of many feathers. CENTER, TOP Hama Hama Oyster Saloon and its waterfront picnic tables. CENTER, BOTTOM One must-stop is the Union City Market, with its local goods. TOP RIGHT Bird watching on the Olympic Loop of the Audubon Great Washington State Birding Trail.
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northwest destination The storied desert town of Palm Springs, where you can count on blue skies and pink martinis.
Palm Springs
Retro-glam and Mid-century mod, this desert town is rare earth for a getaway written by Ryn Pfeuffer
LOOKING FOR a sun-soaked winter retreat? Palm Springs beckons with its blend of year-round T-shirt weather, retro glam and jaw-dropping desert scenery. Once a playground for Hollywood icons like Frank Sinatra and Marilyn Monroe, this LGBTQ+-friendly hot spot now buzzes with poolside parties, unforgettable dining and Mid-century magic. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned fan of this desert oasis, a weekend in Palm Springs promises to leave you glowy and refreshed.
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scallop crudo with yuzu broth and a bone-in pork chop with apple-celery root purée. Start the following day with a visit to Koffi, the Coachella Valley’s largest indie coffee roaster. With four locations, it’s a local favorite. Order a honey-vanilla iced latte and a banana-walnut muffin at the East Palm Canyon spot, where the laid-back vibe and buzzing atmosphere will set the tone for a great day. Ride the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway for breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. This rotating tram whisks you from the desert floor to the cool, pine-scented heights of Mount San Jacinto State Park in just ten minutes. The $35 ticket grants you
Visit Greater Palm Springs
Begin your stay at The Velvet Rope hotel, a restored 1952 boutique property designed by architect Herbert Burns. This Mid-century marvel retains its retro roots while offering modern luxury. Each suite is an ode to Hollywood royalty: the Candelabra Suite dazzles with Liberace-inspired flair, the Ricardo Suite captures Lucy’s playful charm and the Lavender Suite channels Elizabeth Taylor’s timeless elegance. Head to Workshop Kitchen & Bar in the Uptown Design District for dinner. Housed in a converted 1920s movie theater, this James Beard Award-winning restaurant blends earthy minimalism with sweeping mountain views. Chef Michael Beckman elevates farm-to-table dining with dishes like
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Visit Greater Palm Springs
Visit Greater Palm Springs
panoramic views, access to more than 50 miles of trails and even a cozy café where you can relax and take it all in. Palm Springs effortlessly combines history and indulgence, and the Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza exemplifies this harmony. Created by the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, the museum showcases one of the world’s largest Indigenous archaeological projects. Afterward, unwind at The Spa at Séc-he, where twenty-two luxurious hot spring tubs promise pure relaxation. Looking for something unexpected? Check out The Palm Springs Surf Club, a former wave pool turned desert surf haven. With rental boards and lessons available, this unique attraction offers sessions starting at $100. Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, it’s a thrilling way to ride a wave in the heart of the desert. As the sun sets, Canopy Wine Lounge provides a chic winddown spot. This stylish venue, crafted by vintner Alejandro Bulgheroni and former U.S. Ambassador Noah Mamet, features global wine flights, rosé on tap and a locally inspired menu.
Ridge BenBen/Visit Greater Palm Springs
PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA
northwest destination
The Canopy Wine Lounge www.canopywinelounge.com Churrasco Brazilian Steakhouse www.churrascobr.com/ churrasco-palm-springs Farm www.farmpalmsprings.com Koffi www.kofficoffee.com Workshop Kitchen & Bar www.workshopkitchenbar.com
STAY The Velvet Rope www.thevelvetropeps.com
PLAY
For a song, you can hit the town wave, Palm Springs Surf Club, and take a lesson.
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway offers soaring desert views and access to trails. BELOW Thursday nights come alive with VillageFest in downtown Palm Springs.
EAT
With interiors by local modernist designer Christopher Kennedy, it’s as much a feast for the eyes as for the palate. Afterward, head to Churrasco Brazilian Steakhouse—a mustgo for meat lovers. The all-you-can-eat rodizio dinner includes seventeen prime cuts of rotisserie grilled meats, from lamb to filet mignon, plus a fresh market table with fifty offerings. It’s a decadent way to cap off the day. On your final morning, indulge in a Provençal-inspired breakfast at Farm, a charming café with a sunny patio perfect for people-watching. Choose from dishes like a lemon-butter-sugar-strawberry crêpe, a smoked salmon omelet with goat cheese and spinach, or the classic Croque Monsieur. Then, explore Palm Springs’ vibrant shopping scene. Vintage enthusiasts will love ModernWay on North Palm Canyon Drive, while The Frippery is ideal for eclectic clothing and accessories. For retro home goods, Iconic Atomic is a treasure trove, and Elizabeth & Prince in La Quinta offers handpicked chic pieces worth the short drive. If you have a rental car, take a detour to Joshua Tree National Park. Just an hour from Palm Springs, this otherworldly destination features iconic Joshua trees, surreal rock formations and so much desert beauty. Admission ranges from $15 to $30, and the views are worth every penny. Before heading home, experience VillageFest, a lively Thursday night tradition that transforms downtown Palm Springs into a festive street fair. Palm Canyon Drive closes to traffic, creating a pedestrian haven filled with local crafts, delicious eats and vibrant energy. End your evening with a free visit to the Palm Springs Art Museum, open from 5 to 8 p.m., and savor your final moments in this desert paradise. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza www.aguacalientecultural plaza.com Elizabeth & Prince www.elizabethandprince.com The Frippery www.thefrippery.com Iconic Atomic www.iconicatomic.com ModernWay www.psmodernway.com Palm Springs Aerial Tramway www.pstramway.com Palm Springs Art Museum www.psmuseum.org The Palm Springs Surf Club www.palmspringssurfclub.com The Spa at Séc-he www.thespaatseche.com
Visit Workshop Kitchen & Bar, a 1920s moviehouse that is now a James Beard Award-winning restaurant. (photo: Visit Greater Palm Springs)
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1889 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville
Bellingham
San Juan Islands
Friday Harbor
North Cascades National Park
Mount Vernon
Port Port Angeles Townsend Sequim
Forks
Shelton Aberdeen
Newport
Marysville Everett Chelan
Seattle Bellevue
Port Orchard Tacoma
Colville Okanogan
Whidbey Island
Olympic National Park
Republic
Winthrop
Leavenworth
Renton Kent Federal Way
Wilbur
Waterville
Spokane Davenport
Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville
Montesano Olympia
Mount Rainier N.P.
Ellensburg Colfax
Chehalis
South Bend
Pullman Yakima Pomeroy
Long Beach Cathlamet
Kelso Longview
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Prosser
White Salmon Vancouver
Pasco
Dayton
Walla Kennewick Walla
Goldendale
Stevenson
Live
Think
Explore
14 Red Wine and Chocolate
40 Cuniform
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Toppenish murals
15 Wings Over Water Northwest Birding Festival
42 PAWS
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Bavarian Walking Tours
46 Olympic Park Advocates
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Friday Harbor House
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Alderbrook Resort & Spa
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Palm Springs, California
16 Hayes Noble 23 Kagen Coffee & Crêpes 24 Haerfest
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Richland
Mount Adams
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2025
Asotin
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Until Next Time A sunset over Commencement Bay. photo by Nick Joyce
Start your journey right
choose Paine Field
www.painefield.com
seaside is for Winter weekends
If you aren’t thinking about a visit to the Oregon Coast this winter, maybe give it another think. For starters, the Coast is at its most dramatic with winter storm watching and brilliant sunbreaks, sometimes within the same hour. And here in Seaside there’s at least a weekend‘s worth of inside family fun, too. Think arcade games, bumper cars, the aquarium, matinee movies and an old-fashioned carousel.
@visitseasideOR
seasideOR.com
Continue for Special Insert
T
here is nothing more exhilarating than putting the holidays to bed, sending home the overstays and doing something for yourself and your partner. Equal doses of gaming, spa-ing and exercise is a good way to reset the clock for the new year. Better still, if you can find that place that has all of these experiences at one casino resort.
Wildhorse Resort & Casino
Wildhorse Resort & Casino in Pendleton has game with its open high desert golf course.
A publication of Statehood Media
Cover: Wildhorse Resort & Casino
www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com
(photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)
2025 PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS
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Seven Feathers Casino Resort
The spa at Seven Feathers Casino Resort a great way to unwind in Southern Oregon.
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS 2025
Kick back to that era with Danny Vernon’s tribute to Elvis at Tulalip Resort Casino in late January. Head down to Seven Feathers Casino Resort in Southern Oregon and book an eighty-minute couple massage at River Rock Spa. Add an herbal mud body treatment for good measure. Though there were strictly no golf scenes in Ocean’s Eleven, the modern version was filmed at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, which is paired nicely with the Tom Fazio-designed Shadow Creek Golf Course. As a theme and variation on the original Ocean’s Eleven, add seven to make your own Ocean’s Eighteen at Wildhorse Resort & Casino. Tulalip Resort Casino
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he original Ocean’s Eleven from 1960 featured Hollywood entertainers Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin, members of the widely known Rat Pack, and a young Angie Dickinson, no stranger to Las Vegas. This crew reportedly shot scenes quickly, improvising along the way just to get back to their ongoing concert gigs at The Sands Hotel and Casino. As you’re planning your getaway for your own Ocean’s Two, find the old film on Amazon Prime or Apple TV, relish in the nostalgia and fashion and recreate pieces of it on your getaway.
Tulalip Resort Casino, just north of Seattle, is a fun place for playing and finding entertaining musical acts.
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With over 1,100 Vegas-style slots, table games, scenic golf a Family FunPlex, live entertainment and delicious restaurants, you'll find endless ways to play just a short drive away!
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CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F 06633.TT.12.24
Legends Casino Hotel
FROM TOP Find yourself in a luxurious suite at Legends Casino Hotel. Get what you deserve through the many dining options at Wildhorse Resort & Casino.
What room would Beatrice Ocean take? If it was at Legends Casino Hotel in Toppenish, it would have to be the Cedar Suite. It has elegant dining for four, but she’d only want space for two; a 52-inch TV, which she could only imagine; and a soaking tub to release her stress before slipping into a luxurious robe and slippers and waiting for good news from the games below.
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS 2025
Photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino
No matter which casino you choose, recall the classic styles from designer Howard Shoup, who made every character both avant-garde and timeless. As you unwind from the holidays with plans for the new you, ask your bartender to mix up a cocktail that Cinema Sips blogger Liz Locke pairs with the heist plot—a champagne and blackberry brandy cocktail served in a stylish coupe glass.
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