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A story of

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This local delicacy wins hearts every season

regon Dungeness crab, a prized seafood delicacy, is internationally lauded as a culinary wonder; its distinctly sweet, succulent flavor is a melt-in-the-mouth sensation. The start of each season is anxiously anticipated by chefs and consumers alike. Vessels line up along each of six of Oregon’s commercial crab ports, from Astoria to Brookings, ready to roll out at a moment’s notice. Testing done annually by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife determines when the horn sounds. It can feel like a long wait for fishermen. As our state’s official crustacean and an integral part of the Northwest’s seafood heritage, Oregon Dungeness crab has been harvested commercially since the late 1800s. The health benefits of Oregon Dungeness crab are plentiful; high in protein, Omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, and low in calories, fat, cholesterol, carbohydrates and mercury, Dungeness crab is as nutritious as it is tasty. The type of fatty acids in the meat contribute to that briny, sweet flavor people crave. Buying Oregon Dungeness crab supports our local community and economy. Local fishermen work long, tireless hours, risking their lives and leaving their families behind to deliver fresh Oregon Dungeness crab to consumers’ tables. It’s a profession charged with great difficulty, and fishermen take pride in delivering fresh, sustainable and delicious Oregon Dungeness crab to market. Here is one of their stories.

Bob Eder claimed waiting is the hardest. “You get used to a little anxiety before the seasons starts,” he said. Bob didn’t intend a career as a crab fisherman. As a college student “without direction” in his early 20s, he was a writer and a published poet with four different majors. His appetite for commercial fishing was wetted by some friends that got summer jobs in Alaska fisheries. His first job was in Port Orford on a small vessel; however, he took the job with writing in mind. “I knew that experience would be a good source of things to write about,” he said. “Long story short, I got ‘swallowed by my subject.’” After a season of salmon trolling, by the second summer, he started to think about making fishing his career. By the following spring, he had “purchased a crummy little boat, and I’d never even parked one before,” he said laughing. “It was hard to get the financing together, but I did it. This was before quota management and limited entry; I came in at the tail end of a period where fishing was a little easier to enter than it is now.” He “jumped in with both feet,” recognizing right away the industry’s volatility. “You don’t earn money unless you produce, year after year,” he explained. His confidence increased with his next boat purchase, recognizing he had a real aptitude for fishing. His original plan of

The F/V Michele Ann.

fishing salmon in the summers and “fooling around in the winters” was derailed. “Crab grabbed me,” he said. The late ’70s was a challenging and busy time for Bob. He was married in 1978; had a boat, the F/V Nesika, built for him in 1979; and had his first son, Ben, in 1980. By the time his second son, Dylan, was born, Bob was separated, gaining full custody of the boys in the divorce. A move from Port Orford to Newport proved prolific in many ways. He met Michele Ann Longo, a thriving lawyer, who became his soulmate and stepmother to the boys. In Port Orford, he was “a big fish in a small pond,” and now in Newport, he could set eyes on the prize of getting a second, larger boat. “Until I met Michele, I had my hands full,” he said. “I felt lacking both as a parent and as a fisherman. Life got easier and better with her support. This industry challenges marriages. It’s all consuming. She knew who I was when she met me, and she was ok with that.” The name of Bob’s next boat? F/V Michele Ann. Michele had joked about naming the boat after her, not thinking Bob would take it to heart. “She broke down crying in surprise when she saw it,” he said. “I gave her the bottle to christen it, and when she did, she said, ‘May the life of this boat be bountiful and safe.’” Sons Ben and Dylan grew up fishing, and Ben parked his “boundless energy” and strong physique into fishing for crab and sablefish alongside dad. “Ben identified as a fisherman more than I realized until after he was gone. He totally got me. He understood and connected with the kind of joy I got from my work.” The saying “lost at sea” has a deeply weighed significance for Bob. On December 11, 2001, Ben was home from the University of Oregon where he was studying international relations and organic chemistry. He had stayed up late the night before, reading a chemistry text, even though school was out until January. Bob asked if he wanted to help him set gear on the Michele Ann, but Ben said they needed more help on the Nesika.

At 10:44 a.m. on that fateful day, the Yaquina Bay Coast Guard station received a call from F/V Gary Lee reporting that another vessel, the Nesika, had capsized half a mile west from Yaquina Bay. By 6 p.m. that day, rescue squads had not located any signs of the crew: Rob Thompson, Jared Hamrick, Steve Longlot and Ben Eder. They were never found. There’s something about a close coastal community that buoys people at their lowest points. “How the community responded was pretty special,” Bob said. “For about a year and a half, I was just going through the motions. One day, a vendor I’d known for a long time came to the boat and said, ‘You love your work as much as anyone I deal with. I can tell. Are you ever going to let yourself enjoy it again?’ And I realized he was right.” Bob thinks about Ben every day but also feels free to enjoy fishing again. His wife, Michele, who has since passed from cancer, wrote a book that fishermen say is the greatest testimony to their life’s work: Salt in Our Blood. Dylan retired from fishing after Ben died, saying it was something the three of them did together, and is a teacher. The Michele Ann is now owned and operated by Poggy Lapham, a protégé of Bob’s. “It’s a very pure connection to the natural world. It’s literally a privilege to fish—it’s a public resource. I consider it my calling—I could have been doing many other things. Crabbing called me. I’m just a lucky person.” There is a beautiful tribute on the boardwalk in Newport that honors the men of the Nesika. It says, “May the Life of This Fleet Be Bountiful and Safe.” A tribute to the men of the Nesika can be found on Newport’s boardwalk.

Learn more online at oregondungeness.org Creative production services by NORR Agency

Oregon Dungeness Crab with Linguine Pasta Verde

Chef Leif Benson, Oregon’s Culinary Ambassador • 1/2 pound Dungeness crab • 1 bunch parsley • 3/4 cup olive oil • 1 garlic clove • 4 anchovies, or to taste • Lemon zest and juice from 1/2 lemon • 1/2 pound linguine • 2 tablespoons salt • 2 quarts water • 1/2 cup fresh-grated parmesan • Salt and pepper, to taste Bring salted water to a boil. Trim parsley stems, and blanch briefly in the boiling water until wilted. Plunge parsley into ice water until cooled, and then drain. In a blender, combine parsley, olive oil, garlic, anchovy, lemon zest and lemon juice. Blend until smooth. Cook the linguine until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup or more of the pasta water as needed. While the pasta is still hot, mix in the verde sauce and reserved hot pasta water. Fold in the crab meat. Garnish with additional crab meat, parmesan, and a drizzle of olive oil.

In Search of Salmon photography by Amanda Loman For partners Amy Sharp and John Alto, of the F/V Spring Persuader, fishing is in their blood. They and other members of Oregon’s fishing industry work to bring fresh, local salmon to our tables. (pg. 20)

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Amy Sharp and John Alto’s F/V Spring Persuader docked in the Warrenton Marina.

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3

Eliot Glacier sits on Mount Hood.

FEATURES MARCH | APRIL 2025 • volume 91

54 Oregon’s Glaciers What our state’s disappearing glaciers means for us.

A Coastal Foodie Road Trip

Preserving Our Beaches

From Dungeness crab cakes to hearty clam chowder, the Oregon Coast beckons with culinary delights.

The advocacy and photography of Oregon beach protectors Surfrider Foundation.

written by Jean Chen Smith 4

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Nicolas Bakken-French

written by Daniel O’Neil

DEPARTMENTS MARCH | APRIL 2025 • volume 91

LIVE 12 NOTEBOOK

Monet’s Waterlilies; wine-tasting cruises; Goodbye Dyna.

16 FOOD + DRINK

Fresh local tuna, canned; Oregon Chocolate Festival; Sweet Waters on the River 2.0; the Low Tide Martini.

20 FARM TO TABLE

Line-caught, spring-fresh salmon and recipes. Safari Town Surf Shop

28 HOME + DESIGN

A couple’s dream retreat, at last, in Oceanside.

36 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Another side of artist MOsley WOtta.

THINK 40 MY WORKSPACE

Cassandra Lee, contrarian, artist.

44 GAME CHANGER

Newport Sea Lion Docks Foundation.

EXPLORE 70 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT Turell Group/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

Tambi Lane

Tony’s Crab Shack, Bandon.

72 ADVENTURE

Paddling coastal inlets and rivers.

75 LODGING

Valley River Inn’s remake.

76 TRIP PLANNER

Florence, less the exploding whale.

82 NW DESTINATION

Woodland and Kalama, Washington.

8 Editor’s Letter 9 1859 Online 86 Map of Oregon 88 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Aubrie LeGault Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport (see “The Ultimate Foodie’s Road Trip Guide to the Oregon Coast,” pg. 46) MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTORS

JEAN CHEN SMITH Writer The Ultimate Foodie’s Road Trip Guide to the Oregon Coast “The Oregon Coast is not only home to some of the most spectacular spots for connecting with nature—there are also tons of amazing places to enjoy a delicious meal. In this feature, you’ll find our round-up includes some tried-and-true favorites, along with new and exciting spots. There’s something for every taste bud. Spend a couple of days exploring—you’ll be glad you did.” (pg. 46) Jean Chen Smith is a freelance writer and editor based in Corvallis. Her work has appeared in USA Today, Travel + Leisure, Forbes Advisor, The Oregonian and more. When not sharing her love of travel with readers, she’s teaching Pilates at her studio and obsessing over her teacup shih tzus, Tonka and Paisley.

SOPHIE BARLOW Illustrator Home + Design DIY

AMANDA LOMAN Photographer Farm to Table

“The part of the creative process I love the most as an illustrator is learning new ways to bring visual life to a story. For this piece, I focused on using texture and color to bring the cozy sunny morning vibes to this DIYed space. The patterns and colors of wood grain will always remind me of hiking through the Oregon forest in the summer and brought a groovy inspiration to this 1960s-inspired space.” (pg. 34)

“It was a crisp and sunny Oregon winter day when I photographed Amy and John at the F/V Spring Persuader in the wooden-docked Warrenton harbor. They were preparing for a busy season of fishing and travel but took time to share with me the rich history of fishing in the area and the wealth of experience they both share.” (pg. 20)

Sophie Barlow is a freelance illustrator with a love for editorial work. As a born-andraised Oregonian, she loves to be outside enjoying nature whenever she can.

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Amanda Loman is an editorial photographer based in Portland. A native of New York state, she’s been lucky enough to explore in Oregon for the last decade.

JENNA LECHNER Illustrator The Ultimate Foodie’s Road Trip Guide to the Oregon Coast “The Oregon Coast is one of my favorite places to visit, so I was excited to illustrate the ‘Ultimate Foodie’s Road Trip Guide to the Oregon Coast’ article in this issue. Designing maps is one of my favorite illustration briefs. I love the amount of detail and research that’s required to create them—it allows me to visit a place with my art, without actually leaving home.” (pg. 46) Jenna Lechner is a freelance illustrator in Portland. Her nature-based ink and watercolor illustrations have appeared on stationery, wallpaper, packaging and more. You can see more of her work on Instagram @jennamlechner.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

HOMEGROWN CHEF

Thor Erickson

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Brian Holstein, Tambi Lane, Aubrie LeGault, Amanda Loman, Ty Milford, Daniel Stark, Sarah Waters

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Mandy Arroyo, Sophie Barlow, Jenna Lechner

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MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7

FROM THE

EDITOR

WE LIVE in dangerous times. We’re now deliberately going backward on carbon emissions at the moment when global scientists are telling us we’re almost to the point of no return for damage from global warming. Last year, 2024, was the hottest year recorded. Global ocean temperatures rose to their highest levels in the past century. The number of acres burned in wildfires has steadily increased over the decades as more forests experience more droughts. Not to worry, though. We quit international climate agreements and fired nearly 400 employees in the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to drive home the point that we won’t try to maintain our inadequate environmental regulations, let alone be dragged into a common good with others. Insurers are abandoning states—Florida and California—prone to climate-related disasters. FEMA relief will now, presumably, be granted on a selective pay-for-play basis. “It’s not personal, Sonny. It’s strictly business,” said Michael Corleone. How do we not despair in these dangerous times? Breathe. Then recall that people have come through more harrowing times than this in recent history. Living through the Atomic Age, British writer, theologian and scholar C.S. Lewis gave us words to help us weather the storm. “This is the first point to be made: and the first action to be taken is to pull ourselves together. If we are all going to be destroyed by an atomic bomb, let that bomb when it comes find us doing sensible and human things—praying, working, teaching, reading, listening to music, bathing the children,

8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

playing tennis, chatting to our friends over a pint and a game of darts—not huddled together like frightened sheep and thinking about bombs. They may break our bodies (a microbe can do that) but they need not dominate our minds.” To that end, there are Pacific beaches to walk, Dungeness to butter and pints of lovely craft beer to look over the top of and out to sea and proclaim better days ahead by continuing to be responsible citizens of the world. Our “Ultimate Foodie’s Road Trip Guide to the Oregon Coast” on page 46 should dominate your mind along the 363-mile coastline, dotted with culinary venues that celebrate sustainable fisheries on the coast. The excellent Pelican Brewing Company has a new venue in Siletz Bay, spreading cheer farther down the Oregon Coast. In this Coastal Issue, you’ll discover that many practices in Oregon are still headed in the right direction. Turn to this issue’s Farm to Table (pg. 20), where you’ll read about line-caught, spring-fresh local salmon and the fantastic recipes to pair with your favorite wine. As you read elsewhere about the threat of botulism in major tuna brands being pulled from shelves, know that Oregon’s Choice (pg. 18) locally line-caught and canned tuna from Newport has been delighting clients for decades. Even our Gallery (pg. 62)chronicles the good work and excellent photography of Surfrider Foundation, a nonprofit that helps keep our beaches pristine. Make then shake a Low Tide Martini (pg. 17) into (yes) a pint glass and, only then, dive into Daniel O’Neil’s story on Oregon’s disappearing glaciers (pg. 54) in the feature well. Gulp.

1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by Mark Heimes Morning fog rolls into Pacific City.

SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find jewelry, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregon magazine.com/shop

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and 1889 Washington’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/statehood mediadigital

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

NOTEBOOK 12 FOOD + DRINK 16 FARM TO TABLE 20 HOME + DESIGN 28

pg. 28 A couple finds a building spot for their coastal retreat.

Ty Milford

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 36

Elegant.

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CA mar LE k yo ND ur AR

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Tidbits + To-dos

Jon Tapper/Mt. Bachelor

written by Cathy Carroll

Mt. Bachelor RendezVan RVers, campers and van-lifers will make the annual pilgrimage to Mt. Bachelor April 17 through 20 to celebrate spring slopes, live music, vendors, fun competitions and après tailgating at the resort’s base. Everyone’s welcome, including dogs. Lift operations are extended during the festival, and threeday camping passes and spring ski passes are on sale now, too.

Claude Monet (French, 1840-1926), Waterlilies, 1914-1915, oil on canvas, Museum Purchase: Helen Thurston Ayer Fund. Portland Art Museum, Portland, Oregon, 59.16

Masterpiece Resurfaces at Portland Art Museum Claude Monet’s celebrated masterpiece Waterlilies reemerges at the Portland Art Museum, meticulously restored to its original brilliance—without varnish—revealing Monet’s intended color harmonies and luminosity. The exhibition Monet’s Floating Worlds at Giverny pays tribute to the artist’s work and what influenced it. Monet and his fellow impressionists were obsessed with Japanese “floating world” prints that introduced new concepts of beauty and ways of seeing the world. The exhibition runs through August 17.

www.rendezvan.com

www.portlandartmuseum.org/event/monets-floating-worlds-at-giverny

ur yo AR k D ar m EN Matcha Crunch Hazelnuts

White chocolate blends with green tea in Matcha Crunch Hazelnuts from Dragonberry. The sweetness of the chocolate pairs perfectly with matcha’s distinctly mellow, earthy flavor. They’re made in Salem with locally grown hazelnuts and artisanal ingredients. Rich with the flavors of the Pacific Northwest, these dessert nuts are a satisfying go-to snack for tea and nut lovers. Other Oregon Dessert Nuts flavors include tiramisù café and cookies and cream. www.madeinoregon.com/products/matcha-crunch-oregon-dessert-hazelnuts-2-5oz

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

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CAmLark yo END ur AR Wine Tasting Cruises

Edwin Nuez/Portland Spirit

It’s said that water and wine don’t mix, but this is an exception. Sip Oregon wines while cruising the Willamette River at sunset and taking in the city from a new perspective aboard the Portland Spirit. More than a dozen wineries pour on each two-hour sailing, from Abbey Road Farm to Domaine Lumineux (March 13); from Jachter Family Wines to Yamhill Valley Vineyards (April 17); and from Benedetto Vineyards to Willamette Valley Vineyards (May 8). www.portlandspirit.com/ cruise/wine-on-water

Tillamook Water Trail Guides

RL Ross/Tillamook Estuaries Partnership

Tillamook County offers 200 miles of navigable waters for all skill levels— from serene creeks and streams to rivers flowing through dense forests and past green pastures en route to the Pacific. The nonprofit Tillamook Estuaries Partnership offers guidebooks to it all with photos and maps noting paddling access points and amenities across five watersheds. Order a waterproof copy with a donation to the county’s Recreational Water Trail Fund or download a digital one. www.tbnep.org/water-trail-guides

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Musician

Goodbye Dyna, Hello London Bend rockers record their recent album at studio of musical greats written by Ben Salmon

ANDY JACOBS has been an active and versatile figure within Bend’s music scene for more than two decades, playing in punk bands and psych-pop bands and alt-rock bands and even a popular Sublime cover band. Early on, though, he created a project specifically to be a vehicle for his own songs—one in which he would have full creative control. He called it Goodbye Dyna, and he has released six albums of aggressive and tuneful guitar-driven rock under that name since 2002. It’s the most recent of those albums—Lava Meets Water, released near the end of 2024—that comes with an incredible story: Jacobs and his bandmates Jarred Grant (drums) and Rob Wynia (bass) recorded it at the famed Abbey Road Studios in London, England, home to The Beatles in the 1960s and birthplace of dozens of classic albums by artists like Pink Floyd, Radiohead and Amy Winehouse. 14

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

“Every instrument there has a cool story, but the organ was probably the coolest. (One day), someone was playing a chord on it and I think Rob was like, ‘Wait, that sounds so familiar. Was that on (Pink Floyd’s) Dark Side of the Moon?’” Jacobs said. “And the engineer was like, ‘Yep. That’s the one.’ Every time something like that happened, our minds were blown.” The seeds of the idea to record at Abbey Road were planted a few years ago while Jacobs—a huge Beatles fan—was planning a European vacation. Once he came up with it, he just couldn’t let it go. “I just figured I was going to dream big and then see if it could somehow come into fruition,” he said. “I’m sure people thought I was nuts, but to me it was just a matter of setting a goal and then just taking step after step to see if we could reach it.” With the help of friends, family and other supporters—including many who donated to an online fundraising campaign—Goodbye Dyna traveled to London in October of 2022 with a handful of songs ready to go. They spent four days in the hallowed studio, soaking in the vibes and the history, not to mention the expertise of recording engineer Chris Bolster, who has worked with everyone from Paul McCartney and Kate Bush to Foo Fighters and Maroon 5. “It was as intimidating as it gets. I mean, we crossed that famous crosswalk to get to the studio and there was already a crowd of people there at 7:30 in the morning,” he said with a laugh. “We opened the gate to go in and they were like, ‘You can’t do that.’ But we could.” The result of the sessions is an album that not only sounds terrific, it accentuates Goodbye Dyna’s strengths—punchy rhythms, buzzy guitar riffs, Jacobs’ memorable melodies—and even expands on the band’s established sonic palette. Put simply: Goodbye Dyna sounds bigger, bolder, catchier and more interesting than ever on Lava Meets Water. Of course, it’s not just about Listen on Spotify the destination, but the journey as well. For Jacobs, this was the journey of a lifetime. “It felt like a dream the entire time. I remember waking up and pinching myself—like, did that really happen?” Jacobs said. “And it did. We made it happen. And now we just want everyone to hear the music.” Gary Calicott

Band members of Goodbye Dyna pause outside of the famed Abbey Road Studios, where they recorded their recent album.

Photos: courtesy of Sandy Cummings

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ABOVE Charity Woodrum overcame poverty and tragedy in Oregon, becoming a NASA astrophysicist. AT RIGHT Sandy Cummings is an Emmy Award-winning broadcast journalist based in Bend.

Cinephile

Space, Hope and Charity Award-winning documentary champions the power of human connection and wonder of space exploration interview by Cathy Carroll

CHARITY WOODRUM was raised in poverty in tiny, rural Canyonville, in Southern Oregon, with a dream of becoming a NASA astrophysicist. Space, Hope and Charity, an award-winning, independent documentary film by Sandy Cummings of Bend, follows Woodrum’s journey, from enduring tragedy and losing everything, to rediscovering purpose and joy with the aid of Oregon friends, mentors and complete strangers. Why did you decide to do this film? Sandy Cummings: I read about the tragedy that took Charity’s husband and young son when it happened but learned more about her life when having coffee with a mutual friend in Bend. As our friend described what Charity had been through and how she was still working toward becoming an astrophysicist, I literally got goose bumps. Charity is a first-generation high school graduate who grew up in poverty in rural Oregon and was pursuing her dream when she lost everything. With help from old friends, mentors and strangers, she achieved her goal. It was a story I wanted to help Charity tell, if she chose to. I knew it would inspire others on many levels, including the power of human connection and wonder of space exploration.

Tell us about the screenings. Charity Woodrum: When Sandy first approached me about making the film, I was hesitant. But when I asked her why she wanted to, our goals were in alignment. Now that we’ve had dozens of screenings, it feels good to know we’ve already accomplished our goal. During public Q&A sessions or after the screenings in more private moments, I’ve had very meaningful conversations with audience members who have told me about their own hardships and how the documentary helped them. The audience also gets to know my son and husband, and afterwards, they grieve with me over their loss. Not many people get to experience so many moments of collective grief like this after the funeral is over. So these shared moments have been healing to me as well.

Cummings: Charity; her University of Oregon mentor, Scott Fisher; and I often do Q&As after screenings, but we decided to add a community-building gathering … to explore our connectedness at a time when the world feels divided and wobbly. Charity is the first to say she wouldn’t have achieved her goal of becoming a NASA astrophysicist without the people who supported her along her journey. [The event was] facilitated by Molly Buccola [of Bend after a public screening there]. … Molly’s work is rooted in philosophy and theology, and she’s one of the most positive people I’ve ever met, in spite of overcoming her own challenges in life. We’re exploring other opportunities to hold more of these gatherings, reflecting on how little it takes to have a huge impact on others’ lives. Charity, what is happening in your astrophysics career? Woodrum: I’m currently a NASA Postdoctoral Program Fellow with the James Webb Space Telescope (JWST) team at NASA Goddard Space Flight Center. My research uses JWST to try to understand how galaxies form and subsequently evolve across cosmic time. I still get teary-eyed walking around NASA—this is truly my dream job. However, I did apply for a different job back in April: to be an astronaut. I have not heard anything back yet, so I assume that means I was rejected. I hope they send me a rejection letter so I can frame it. I will apply again when they have another call for applications, which typically happen every four years. I acquired my private pilot license for fun and to also boost my astronaut application. In the next few years, I will think of more fun ways to add to my qualifications, such as learning a new language. See the film at Oregon Museum of Science and Industry in Portland on April 24 or at the American Association of University Women Conference in Lebanon on April 25. You can also stream the film online via its website, www. spacehopecharityfilm.com. WHERE TO VIEW

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 15

food + drink

Beerlandia

Beer, Flavor Memories and the Sea written by Jeremy Storton | illustration by Mandy Arroyo IT HAPPENED NEARLY fifteen years ago, but I remember it like yesterday. I walked into the Yard House in Seattle, near Pike Street. I ordered the John John Dead Guy from Rogue Brewery (now called Dead and Dead). The clouds parted. The angels sang. I was smitten from the first sip. It happened again in the winter of 2015. The High Desert Museum in Bend had a craft beer exhibit, and all the local breweries offered tastes of their usual beers. But Deschutes Brewery brought something special. I tasted their Dissident, a Belgian sour brown, for the first time. This seared another memory into my brain. Even drinking a Pacifico takes me back to one lazy weekend in college, eating nachos at the beach. Whenever I have any of these beers, I return to that exact place and that exact moment. Collectively, these are flavor memories, and aroma arguably creates the strongest ones.

Smells connect directly to the amygdala, which processes memories and emotions, and the hippocampus, which forms new memories. This is why freshly baked cookies remind us of grandma, or that musty wet earth off-flavor in beer and wine can transport us to the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland. Besides great beers, my favorite flavor memories involve the sea. The second I crest the coastal mountains and get a whiff of the salty air, my amygdala ignites. The smell of neoprene, surf wax, fresh fish, rotting seaweed and the salty air—all of it combines into one memory that reminds me of my childhood and takes me home. For me, the happiest place on earth isn’t a star-studded theme park. It’s being at the coast with a fresh catch in one hand and a good beer in the other.

Besides great beers, my favorite flavor memories involve the sea. The second I crest the coastal mountains and get a whiff of the salty air, my amygdala ignites.

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food + drink The Low Tide Martini from Local Ocean Seafoods brings the Oregon Coast to your lips with dulse-infused vodka.

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Colt Deitrick, Local Ocean Seafoods / NEWPORT This drink was developed in collaboration with Winter Waters, an annual monthlong dining and educational series centered around seaweed and local, sustainable seafood.

Low Tide Martini FOR COCKTAIL • 1 ounce dulse-infused vodka (recipe below) • ½ ounce gin • 1½ ounces Cocchi Americano (can substitute Lillet Blanc or another bianco, or semisweet white vermouth) • 2 dashes orange bitters • Lemon, for garnish FOR DULSE SEAWEED-INFUSED VODKA • 4 ounces Pacific dulse seaweed, fresh • 750 ml bottle of vodka (we use Rogue Bayfront vodka) FOR COCKTAIL In a large glass or cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients. Add ice, and stir for 20 to 30 seconds. (Shaking is not encouraged—unless you want ice chips in your drink!) Strain into a chilled coupe or martini glass. Using a peeler or paring knife, cut a strip of peel from the lemon, avoiding the bitter white pith. Express its oils over the top of the drink by twisting the peel, and then rub the rim of the glass with the inner side of the peel. Garnish with the peel, and enjoy! FOR DULSE SEAWEED-INFUSED VODKA In a large container, stir together the dulse and vodka. Cover, and let this infuse in the fridge for 2 to 3 hours. Then, strain the dulse, reserving for another use. If refrigerated, this infused vodka will stay fresh for 2 to 3 weeks.

Aubrie LeGault

Note: If you cannot find fresh dulse seaweed locally, you can order it at www.oregonseaweed. com. You can substitute dried seaweed in this recipe; however, the taste and quantities needed may vary. Try warming a small amount of the vodka in a pan and adding the dried seaweed in for 2 minutes before stirring in the rest of the bottle—this will open it up for infusion.

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Photos: Oregon’s Choice Gourmet

food + drink

CRAVINGS:

CULINARY CELEBRATIONS OREGON MAIALATA Join Portland’s six-time James Beardnominated chef Cathy Whims and Andrea “Guido” Falaschi, a fourth-generation Italian butcher from Tuscany, to celebrate the Italian tradition of Maialata on March 22. This epic, one-day festival at Cana’s Feast Winery in Carlton honors the whole animal and is centered around community and tradition. In addition to butchery demonstrations and immersive culinary workshops, expect multiple wine-paired feasts.

ABOVE Oregon’s Choice Gourmet canned fish. AT RIGHT Oregon’s Choice Gourmet owner SueAnna Harrison.

CANA’S FEAST WINERY 750 W. LINCOLN ST. CARLTON www.maialatapdx.com

Gastronomy

OREGON CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL

Oregon’s Choice Gourmet written by Kerry Newberry WHEN SUEANNA HARRISON was around 10, the family’s boat-to-table business was already close to heart. At that time, her dad, Captain Herb Goblirsch was catching and selling fish direct from his boat, the F/V EZC. Her first role was to call a list of customers when his boat returned to the Newport docks. “Everyone was always so happy to hear from us,” she said. As the demand for Goblirsch’s catch grew, he started canning his own albacore. “He was the first fisherman in our area to can his own catch under his own brand,” said Harrison—who then became the de facto label pro. “Back then, each can had a black-and-white paper label we’d put on with a glue stick.” For three decades, the family’s canned tuna business continued to soar. In 2020, after fishing for more than forty years, Captain Herb retired, and Harrison stepped in as the second-generation leader for Oregon’s Choice Gourmet. “Since those first customer calls, it’s always been my destiny,” she said. Today, she’s still sourcing fish from the same local fishing fleet her father did. “Buying local really matters, especially with seafood,” she said. “It directly supports our local fishing community and their families.” The Oregon albacore fishery is recognized by the Monterey Bay Aquarium as one of the most sustainable fisheries in the world. “By using hook and line fishing methods, we are catching each fish individually. That means there’s no bycatch,” explained Harrison. Because Oregon albacore are caught young (just at the start of their cross-Pacific journey), the fish have lower levels of mercury compared to tuna caught in Europe. “Overall, it’s a leading example of managing a natural resource,” said Harrison. “I’m proud to have my small part in it.” www.oregonschoice.com

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The state’s premiere chocolate festival (held March 7 through 9 in Ashland) brings renowned chocolatiers together for a weekend of delicious workshops and panel discussions. Sessions range from exploring the role of terroir in chocolate to the art of pairing wine and chocolate. In addition to a popular five-course chocolate maker’s dinner, you can sign up for a chocolate brunch or indulge in luxe chocolate-inspired spa treatments at Waterstone Spa. 2525 ASHLAND ST. ASHLAND www.oregonchocolatefestival.com

TASTE OF NORDIC Grab your skis or snowshoes and head to Anthony Lakes for the annual Taste of Nordic on March 23. Follow along pristine cross-country trails and enjoy a progressive tasting from local food and beverage makers. Last year’s standouts included brews from Barley Brown’s, The Prodigal Son and Tiger Town and savory bites from The Cheese Fairy and The Lone Pine Cafe. Purchase tokens at the Main Lodge or on the trails the day of the event. 47500 ANTHONY LAKES HIGHWAY NORTH POWDER www.anthonylakes.com

BEST PLACES FOR

VINOTHERAPY + WINE COUNTRY WELLNESS Head to Portland’s first dedicated wine spa for a blissful afternoon of vinotherapy. Choose from a suite of wine-inspired treatments that range from Pinot Dreams (a relaxing soak paired with a massage) and The Merlot Glow (a grape glow body scrub and vinous soak). The recently opened spa has a partnership with Caudalie, a renowned French beauty brand specializing in vinotherapy products. 1517 NE BROADWAY PORTLAND www.thewinespapdx.com

YOGA + BEER Mix up your regular yoga routine with the uplifting team behind Yoga + Beer. These all-levels yoga classes pop up at breweries, wineries, cideries and other beautiful spaces around the state. Look for upcoming sessions at Ferment Brewing Company in Hood River and Eola Hills Wine Cellars in Salem. You can also join their annual yoga and outdoor adventure retreats in Walla Walla and the Columbia Gorge and special events like the Y+B Book Club.

Photos: Valley River Inn

THE WINE SPA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The renovated Sweet Waters on the River makes its stunning debut. Expect dishes like diver scallops with parsnip purée and roasted heirloom carrots and fun cocktails from the new kitchen.

Dining

Sweet Waters on the River written by Kerry Newberry

Explore the rolling hills of Chehalem Valley on two wheels with local cycling enthusiasts Lisa Gilbertson and Phil Amaya. Each tour combines beautiful bike paths and vineyard views with wine flights at boutique wineries and a picnic lunch. There’s also an option to design your own multiday cycling adventure led by these wine country experts. Tours run late April through October.

THERE’S A NEW reason to book a dinner reservation in Eugene—the completely revamped Sweet Waters on the River. Along the walk to your table (beautiful hardwood slabs with live edges), you’ll pause as you get closer to the wall of floor-to-ceiling windows that spotlight the surrounding woodlands and mood-lifting riverscape. Chef Alfredo Van Nortwick’s seasonal menu celebrates his hometown roots with dishes built around Northwest ingredients from nearby farms, fishers, foragers and vineyards. In the starters alone, you’ll find a lot to love—from the delicious and playful salmon corn dogs (with marionberry honey and whipped dill crème fraîche for dipping) to earthy wild mushroom bruschetta and carrot ginger bisque topped with a parsnip crisp. Other recent favorites include a golden-crispy pan-seared king salmon served atop a creamy kohlrabi purée with garlic braised winter greens and an all-season comfort platter of Ninkasi Total Domination IPA-battered Pacific cod with dill tartar and tangy slaw. You’ll also find a thoughtful array of cocktails and local wines (with glass pours from esteemed producers like Shea and Illahe). MORE INSIDE A longstanding dining destination for locals, Sweet Waters is Read more about also the on-site restaurant for Valley River Inn. Plus, the breakfast Eugene’s Valley menu is equally outstanding, with healthy bowls like overnight River Inn on pg. 75 oats sprinkled with chia seeds and a swish of chocolate hazelnut to more hearty fare, from a wild mushroom omelet to a classic Benny. No matter what meal brings you here, the river views are unrivaled.

18710 NE WILLIAMSON ROAD NEWBERG www.winederoads.com

1000 VALLEY RIVER WAY EUGENE www.sweetwatersontheriver.com

ALBANY, CORVALLIS, GORGE, PORTLAND, SALEM www.cheersandnamaste.com

WINE DE ROADS

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

farm to table

Farm to Table

Spring-Fresh Salmon Line-caught salmon from the Oregon Coast make for one of the most sustainable fisheries written by Julie Lee photography by Amanda Loman ONE OF THE most popular and versatile fish in the world, and renowned for its tasty, pink flesh packed with antioxidants and beneficial fatty acids, salmon is a staple menu item in homes and restaurants. Salmon are fascinating creatures of habit and considered anadromous, thriving equally in both salt water and fresh water. Typically, salmon are born in fresh water before gravitating toward the ocean for a field trip and then returning to fresh water to spawn. Few other fish have this sort of range versatility, possessing behavioral adapters that make it possible. When other saltwater fish are exposed to fresh water, their cells burst. Likewise, when freshwater fish are exposed to salt water, their cells shrivel. Salmon also have a GPS unlike any other, traveling long distances after extended periods of time to get home to the river in which they were born to spawn. Much like our canine friends, salmon have a strong sense of smell that helps guide them home. The species name is derived from a Latin word that means “to leap,” which is what they do to battle swimming upriver in powerful currents. They are also beautiful fish; sockeye, for example, are born light colored and spotted before morphing into a silvery blue color and then turning a brilliant red when it’s time to spawn. For Oregonians, salmon has played a critical role, not just as a delicacy but also with economic and ecosystem impact as well as cultural and religious significance for Northwest tribes. There are seven different species of Pacific salmon, five of which are familiar in North America: Chinook, sockeye, chum, pink and coho. Steelhead trout are a variation of salmon; however, they don’t die after spawning. Anglers John Alto and Amy Sharp are known in the salmon industry as a power duo, fishing for both albacore and salmon from the F/V Spring Persuader. Both come from Pacific Northwest fishing families and, according to Ericka Carlson, executive director of the Oregon Salmon Commission, are “great advocates for commercial fishermen.” Sharp also launched an 20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Amy Sharp and John Alto stand aboard the F/V Spring Persuader in the Warrenton Marina.

farm to table

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farm to table

John Alto and Amy Sharp hold up fishing lures known as “hoochies” used in salmon trolling.

initiative, FishHer, a women-led nonprofit that supports, unites and empowers women in the industry. She was particularly instrumental in gathering volunteers and helping to feed crews in the wake of last year’s devastating Ilwaco landing dock fire near Astoria. Alto’s thread to the salmon business is interwoven through family. His father was “a fishing fool,” and Alto first went commercial fishing with his dad when he was in fourth grade. The first time he went out on a boat, however, was when he was 3 years old, when he was “too young to remember going out on the ocean,” said Alto. “My memories go back to kindergarten. I remember not being able to see land. My dream became to fish in the ocean with someone I love. God has truly blessed my life. I’m living my dream.” That dream doesn’t come without some self-admitted sacrifices, most notably “time spent with my children,” according to Alto. He hopes to fish with them one day, and his son, now 9 years old, already has sights set on being a commercial fisherman. If that proves true, it will cement the generational hold salmon fishing has on the family, as Alto’s great-grandfather was a merchant mariner and worked at sea as an albacore and salmon fisherman. 22 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Sharp’s path to fishing was more of a “chosen profession,” she said, departing a career as an electrician to deckhand the family boat. Sharp and Alto met on a dock in Westport, Washington, where Sharp was working on another boat fishing for albacore when their freezer system broke down. A friendly chat led to dinner, and since her boat was docked, she ended up going out fishing with Alto. They’ve been together ever since. “It’s extremely empowering to be able to fish and share industry with my significant other,” said Sharp. “It’s not just him, not just me, we’re recognized as a whole, as a team. There’s a sense of security knowing we aren’t alone in this, whether it’s in a meeting or out at sea. I’m so glad to be out with Johnny. I trust my life with him. I know where everything is on the boat. It’s our home.” It is home, Alto agreed—a very small home. “It’s the smallest tiny home you can imagine, so you must be with someone you can operate with day in and day out,” he said. “This isn’t an easy business. One thing about salmon fishing is you always think the next trip is going to be your big break. It’s the steepest learning curve of any fishery you can get into.” He said commercial fishing is also one of the most rewarding industries. “It’s one of the oldest fisheries in Oregon, dating

farm to table

back to 1910 in Astoria. Using your bare hands and connecting with these powerful [creatures] is a thrill every time. It’s hard to describe to anyone who hasn’t done it—you get a real rush out of it. When you have a school of Chinook and they’re biting and shaking the boat, it’s an awesome, heart-pumping, handsshaking experience.” Fisherman Patrick Roelle of F/V James Lee is spawning a family business himself, with sons Wyatt and Zac, who owns F/V Colby Lee, joining dad in the family business in Winchester Bay. Roelle is, according to Carlson, “very engaged in the local community, another great advocate for salmon and albacore fishermen, and was recently featured on The Fishmonger.” One of his unique offerings, according to Carlson, is his “delicious, canned salmon.” Like Alto and Sharp, Roelle started his career fishing and crabbing with his dad before venturing out on his own. “We always crabbed when I was a kid,” he said, “throwing crab pots out, then salmon fishing, then pulling the crab pots up.” Roelle anxiously awaits the spring season, fishing from the moment the season opens until its close. “The spring salmon are the most desired,” he said. “There is a difference between spring and fall fish. In the spring, the fish in the ocean are at their life’s peak and in their prime life cycle. They are at their fullest and most excellent meat. Understanding the truth of salmon and why it’s so invaluable in the spring, understanding historical demand, is critical to our industry.” His résumé in the fishing business includes once owning Fishpatrick’s Crabby Café, now known as Crabby’s Bar & Grill, as well as a celebrated canning business that he’s proud of. “Our canned salmon is not [inexpensive],” he said, “but it’s the finest table fare-quality salmon you will find in a can. Typically, you will find lower quality when canned, but I am taking $15-perpound salmon and canning it.” “I love commercial salmon fishing,” Roelle said. “It’s the closest thing to sport fishing there is. Every time you get a bite, you know it. You catch salmon one at a time. One hook at a time, one fish at a time. That’s how it’s done.”

Courtesy of Patrick Roelle

A life ring buoy hangs on the wall of the F/V Spring Persuader.

A delicious spin on salmon comes from chef and owner Christopher Czarnecki of The Joel Palmer House Restaurant, tucked in the heart of Willamette Valley. His salmon and morels recipe is a favorite, showcasing the “earthiness of mushrooms with freshness of the sea.” Czarnecki is a fourth-generation restaurateur; his family’s roots in the business originated in Reading, Pennsylvania, with a restaurant that catered to Polish immigrants, before eventually moving west and opening The Joel Palmer House, lauded for having wild mushrooms as a culinary specialty, in 1996. The salmon primo sandwich has been a staple of Newport’s Local Ocean Seafoods for many years. It originated one year when Chinook salmon was not widely available. Captain Don Snow of F/V Summerplace challenged executive chef Enrique Sanchez-Rodriguez to create “something special” with the coho salmon he had caught that year. Local Ocean continues to buy most of their yearly salmon from Snow and his boat, and Snow still orders the sandwich every time he dines at Local Ocean. In Snow’s words, “when in Newport, my go-to place for lunch is Local Ocean Seafoods. The salmon primo sandwich always catches my eye; the fresh-baked ciabatta bun and nice big piece of wild coho, along with just the right veggies, makes it irresistible.”

Fisherman Patrick Roelle poses with a salmon on his boat.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 23

farm to table

Oregon Recipes

Salmon Reimagined Salmon Primo Sandwich

Local Ocean Seafoods / NEWPORT Chef Enrique Sanchez-Rodriguez

Local Ocean Seafoods’ Salmon Primo Sandwich.

FOR THE ROASTED GARLIC • 2 cups garlic, peeled • 2 cups olive oil FOR THE BASIL OIL • 1 cup roasted garlic oil (oil only) • 1 cup fresh basil leaves FOR THE ROASTED GARLIC RÉMOULADE • 3/4 cup mayonnaise • 2 cups roasted garlic • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard • 1 tablespoon capers, drained • 1½ teaspoons white balsamic vinegar • 2 tablespoons parsley, finely minced • 1/2 teaspoon green Tabasco • 1/2 green onion, sliced FOR THE PRIMO FRESH MIX • 1/2 ounce arugula • 1 ounce fresh tomatoes, diced small • 1/2 ounce red onion, sliced thin • 1/2 green onion, sliced thin • 1/2 teaspoon parsley, finely minced FOR THE ROASTED GARLIC Simmer garlic and olive oil together in a pan until soft and fragrant, and when the garlic is a golden color. When cool enough

Local Ocean Seafoods

FOR EACH SANDWICH • 4 to 41/2 ounces fresh wild salmon fillet, skinned and pin bones removed, cut about 21/2 to 3 inches wide (coho typically used, but Chinook would make for a decadent sandwich) • 1-2 thin slices prosciutto • 2-3 ounces olive oil, for cooking • Ciabatta bun • Roasted garlic (recipe below) • Basil oil (recipe below) • Roasted garlic rémoulade (recipe below) • Primo fresh mix (recipe below) • 11/2 ounces shredded mozzarella • Salt and black pepper, freshly ground

to handle, separate excess oil, reserving for later. FOR THE BASIL OIL Blend in a food processor until smooth and well incorporated. Pour into a container for storage. FOR THE ROASTED GARLIC RÉMOULADE Process all ingredients in a food processor until well incorporated. Add garlic oil as needed to help machine process. Excess rémoulade can be stored for up to a month. FOR THE PRIMO FRESH MIX Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl, and season to taste with basil oil, salt and pepper. FOR THE SANDWICH Season salmon fillets on both sides with pepper. Wrap each fillet in sliced prosciutto, ensuring the prosciutto wraps all the way around the sliced sides of the fillet.

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To pan-sear the salmon, heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil is shimmering, add the salmon fillet, being careful to keep the salmon from sticking to the pan. Shake the pan gently as you add each portion to make sure there is enough oil between it and the pan. Cook for 2 minutes, and then flip, gently shaking the pan again when placing the raw side down into the oil. If your fillet is not browning after a few minutes, turn the heat up. To serve medium-rare, pull salmon off the heat when temperature reaches 115 to 120 degrees in the center—it will continue to cook. Let it rest at room temperature. Toast the ciabatta by cutting the bun in half width-wise and brushing cut sides with olive oil. Toast in the pan to a goldenbrown color while fish is resting. Spread a generous amount of roasted garlic rémoulade on the toasted sides of each bun. Top the bottom portion of the bun with a heaping mound of the Primo fresh mix. Top with the salmon, mozzarella and top bun.

farm to table

Salmon and Morels

water. Cook until water has evaporated, taste and salt accordingly.

FOR THE SALMON • 1 whole side of Chinook salmon or 2 sides of sockeye salmon

FOR THE CHIMICHURRI • 1 bunch green onions • 1 bunch cilantro • 1 serrano pepper (size will determine the level of spice) • 1/4 cup white wine vinegar • 1/4 cup olive oil • 2 tablespoons lime juice • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh garlic

FOR THE QUINOA • 1/2 cup quinoa • 1 cup water • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon curry powder

FOR THE SALMON Preheat oven to broil. Portion salmon based on number of guests being served. Descale, but leave skin on. Place salmon onto ovensafe pan, skin side down, and set aside.

FOR THE MOREL DUXELLES • 3 tablespoons butter • 1/4 cup yellow onion, chopped • 1/4 red bell pepper, chopped • 1 pound fresh morel mushrooms, roughly chopped (dried morels can be substituted using postreconstituted weight) • 1 tablespoon soy sauce (Yamasa brand or better) • 1/4 cup water

FOR THE QUINOA Stir quinoa, 1 cup water, salt and curry powder into a pot, and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 15 minutes or until cooked through. Remove from heat, and taste, adjusting salt as needed.

TO FINISH + SERVE Broil salmon in the oven for 5 minutes. Doneness should be medium-rare, but add heat and adjust doneness as desired. Set aside to rest. Distribute appropriate amounts of quinoa amongst plates in the same number of square inches that your salmon portions will occupy. Place salmon portions on top of quinoa. Top the salmon with morel duxelles, smoothly spreading it on top of the fish. Drizzle ample chimichurri over the entirety of the plate. Garnish as desired, and serve.

Glazed Salmon

Chorizo Salmon Cakes

SERVES 4

• Equal parts butter + brown sugar • Wright’s liquid smoke • 4 salmon fillets

• 11/4 pounds of skinned, deboned salmon • 1 roll (9 ounces) of Cacique pork chorizo • 3/4 cup panko breading • 1 tablespoon Cholula hot sauce • 1 teaspoon cumin • 1/2 cup cilantro • Pepper jack cheese, sliced

The Joel Palmer House Restaurant / DAYTON Chef and owner Christopher Czarnecki SERVES 6-8

FOR THE MOREL DUXELLES Melt butter in pan. Add onion and red bell pepper, sautéing until onions are translucent. Add mushrooms, soy sauce and 1/4 cup

Fishpatrick’s / WINCHESTER BAY

Mash the salmon. Mix in chorizo, 1/4 cup panko, hot sauce, cumin and cilantro. Form the salmon mixture into patties, wrapping each around a slice of cheese. Press the patties into the remaining panko crumbs to bread. Cook in a well-oiled cast iron pan on medium-low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden-brown. Serve as is or with a sweet chipotle cream sauce. Note: Top these salmon cakes with eggs over medium for a mouthwatering breakfast dish. A tasty twist on salmon with chorizo salmon cakes from Amy Sharp.

Amy Sharp

Slowly blend equal parts butter and brown sugar in a pan over low heat on the stove. Once blended, add a few dashes of Wright’s liquid smoke. Cool, and store in the refrigerator. Preheat oven to 425 degrees, using convection if possible. Dry salmon with paper towels, and place skin side down onto a foil-lined baking sheet. Pat glaze on top of salmon, and place in the oven. Cooking hot and fast is the key to getting a slightly browned outside and a moist, delicious center. Watch for the inner fat of the salmon to begin to spit and show itself through to the edge of the salmon, and you’ll know it’s done. Remove from oven, and serve.

Amy Sharp / WARRENTON

FOR THE CHIMICHURRI In a blender, combine green onion, cilantro, serrano pepper, vinegar, olive oil, lime juice, salt and garlic, and purée until smooth. Taste, and adjust salt or your acid level as needed, adding vinegar or olive oil depending on the consistency of your choice.

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farm to table

Homegrown Chef

Rapidly Approaching written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane AS I MANEUVERED my boat to the downstream ferry through Boxcar Rapid, my walkie-talkie started making noise. “Thor! Are you there? Give me your location!” the voice echoed off the sheer canyon walls on the side of the Deschutes River. I couldn’t reach my two-way radio as it was strapped to my pack on the floor of the boat, and I was a bit busy. Going stern first down the rapids wasn’t my first choice. But there I was with a boat full of coolers and cooking gear. I had no choice. As the boat slammed over the rapids, going backward over the whitewater, I looked from side to side to make sure that all was clear, and none of the gear broke loose. As the river calmed, my radio went on again. “Thor, please respond!” exclaimed the voice of Patty. “Where the hell are you?” “I’m right here,” I responded. “I’ll be at Sandy Beach in a few minutes.” Patty and her husband, John, owned the whitewater guide company I was working for. She was waiting to pick up me and my boat to portage around Sherars Falls and get me back on the river so I could set up and

prepare dinner for twelve rafters at Buck Hollow. “Well, you are early as always,” Patty said. “How about some lunch?” Patty’s family was celebrating the bounty of the river and had prepared a traditional salmon bake. Woodsmoke along with the sweet smell of slowcooking salmon rubbed with salt and brown sugar wafted through the air. The fish were fileted and propped on wooden frames like an opened book in front of a smoldering fire. Vegetables, rice and frybread were being cooked to go with the salmon. I was honored to join them. An hour and a half later, Patty, John and I were on our way to get my boat back on the river. As I floated along, heading toward the Columbia River, I felt a renewed sense of wonder, awareness and respect of the life-giving power of the water. Spring king (Chinook) salmon is sought for the flavor it contains due to the fat that these fish store before they migrate from the Pacific to the Columbia River. When cooked properly, this fat creates a rich texture and delicate flavor. Here’s my favorite way to prepare spring Chinook salmon.

Woodsmoke along with the sweet smell of slow-cooking salmon rubbed with salt and brown sugar wafted through the air. The fish were fileted and propped on wooden frames like an opened book in front of a smoldering fire. 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

King Salmon • 1 filet (side) of king salmon, skin on, pin bones removed • 1/3 cup kosher salt • ¼ cup brown sugar • ½ teaspoon ground coriander seed • ½ teaspoon paprika • ¼ teaspoon ground fennel seed • ¼ teaspoon chili flakes (could be more if desired) • ¼ teaspoon ground cumin • ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper • 2 tablespoons olive oil Note: This recipe uses your gas or charcoal grill to cook the salmon. This can be done in a 400-degree oven with similar results. If using charcoal, start the coals before step 1. Tear off enough aluminum foil to measure approximately 4 inches longer than the salmon filet. Create a tray by folding up 1 inch on each side of the foil to create four walls. Rub the foil tray with oil. Place the foil tray on a half sheet pan or cookie sheet. Place the salmon on the foil tray, flesh side up. Mix the salt, brown sugar and all the spices. Rub the spice mixture on the salmon, and let sit at room temp for 10 to 15 minutes. Preheat your gas grill. After your grill reaches 400 to 500 degrees, slide the foil tray (with the salmon on it) onto the hot grill, and close the lid. After 4 minutes, check the salmon. When the salmon reaches an internal temp of 130 degrees, carefully remove it, sliding it back onto the sheet pan. (I use a couple metal spatulas for this maneuver.) Let it rest away from heat for about 5 minutes. Serve it whole family style on a platter, or cut it into individual portions. The skin is delicious whether it comes off the filet or is served separately.

farm to table

King salmon on a raft of risotto is as refreshing as a spring river rapid.

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home + design

Home + Design

Calm and Collected A couple built their dream retreat, called Meena Lodge, in Oceanside written by Melissa Dalton photography by Ty Milford

FOR YEARS, Kristie and Craig Carter would spend their weekends exploring the Oregon Coast, surfboards in tow, checking out small towns and camping. “I grew up on a small island in Alaska, surrounded by the ocean, so it was a little weird for me when I moved to Portland,” said Craig. “It took a couple years to get used to not having the salt and the ocean right there. So, for a lot of years, I researched towns and then raw land.” BELOW After years of patiently searching, Craig and Kristie Carter found the right site for a home in Oceanside.

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A NEW LEVEL OF EXCELLENCE ENERGY-EFFICIENT, HIGH-PERFORMANCE WINDOWS AND DOORS THAT STAND THE TEST OF TIME.

(503) 755-8977 | rbanw.com/1859 OR Lic#198571 | WA Lic#RENEWAP877BM

home + design

A decade ago, the couple, who both work as health administrators in the Department of Veteran Affairs during the week, had bought a 1950s bungalow in Portland and done a studsout remodel, living in the basement for eighteen months as they overhauled it. The next dream was to have a more remote outpost within easy driving distance, where they could fish, surf and gather with friends and family. “My grandfather had land and a house in Manzanita, so I spent a lot of time there,” said Kristie, who grew up in Portland. “Once they sold the property when he passed, Craig and I started looking for land to find a place of our own, to create our own memories together.” They learned a lot from their recreational/research trips, from new-to-them surf spots, to the realities behind the listing pictures. “When you go out in person, you’d find they’re next to a busy road or there’s power lines overhead that you didn’t see on the RMLS listing,” said Kristie. “Getting boots on the ground was so important.” A few times, they thought they found the “jackpot” with a lot in the $10K to $15K range, only to learn about county setback requirements. “Sometimes you could only build something like a 10-foot by 10-foot structure, and you know, that doesn’t make a house,” said Kristie. “You really start to learn, they’re cheap for a reason.” Finally, in 2021, family based in Oceanside heard about two adjacent empty lots coming up for sale in the area, and Craig left town that day to go see them. Down a wooded gravel lane, tucked between Netarts Bay and Oceanside beach, the land was overgrown with manzanita bushes and salal, but had key features they knew were important: relatively flat, buildable, sunny and dry, with no creeks or marshes creeping in. The couple bought architectural plans off Etsy, modified them and then teamed up with local contractor JLT Construction for the build. “They’re a family company, and his mom, who’s the accountant, answered the phone,” said Kristie. The conversation “was so lovely. We were like, you’re the one.” From the start, they knew that they weren’t doing a traditional coastal bungalow—there would be no dried starfish, buoys or fishing nets here. In fact, extraneous lines have been removed wherever possible, whether it’s the seams between hardwood flooring or the grout lines in a tile backsplash. “We wanted something more modern, streamlined and utilitarian,” said Craig. This starts with the exterior, a simple one-story gabled form, but with a front porch carved out under the front roof overhang, a change of location for the porch that came about a month before breaking ground. “Craig and I were camping out there and we were sitting where the patio would [originally] be, which was the opposite side of the house, and we were like, ‘This isn’t right,’ so we flip-flopped the whole thing,” remembered Kristie. Inside, there’s a luxe sense of spaciousness, with soaring ceilings and oversized doors and windows, the latter oriented to frame the forest views on the back side of the house, while the front porch captures the sunset and ocean breeze. Even though the footprint is modest, just 1,500 square feet, it includes three bedrooms and two 30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

FROM LEFT Oversize windows allow maximum light in the dining room and throughout the home. The couple made sure that the living room was a comfortable place with plenty of space.

home + design

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home + design

baths, with oversized elements, like a huge couch and extra-long kitchen island, to beckon people together during gatherings. Earthy hues predominate, from the poured concrete floors underfoot, to the custom hickory cabinets in the kitchen and waterproof plaster covering the bathroom showers. There’s no fussy extraneous decoration. Deep window reveals soften the natural light without the distraction of trim, and the stove hood blends in with the drywall. The only line to be found is a shadow gap between the walls and floor, in lieu of baseboard. Every finish and furnishing has been considered for ease of use and durability, from the couch that’s deep enough for an afternoon nap for two, to the kitchen outfitted with just the right

combination of cookware. Now that the couple rent out the home, called Meena Lodge, when they’re not using it, it’s just such details that make the difference. “There’s every single thing you could need and nothing more,” said Kristie. “It’s a simple design, but at the same time, it feels really calm.” They tend to make the short trip out the most during the winter season—“Any chance Craig can surf and winter is the best surfing time,” said Kristie—and upon arrival, might start putting together a meal in the kitchen, and pop on a record from the well-rounded vinyl collection. “We cover all generations,” said Craig, from Lauren Hill to Billy Joel. “You spend two nights there, and it’s like a mini vacation. It’s a good reset.”

“There’s every single thing you could need and nothing more. It’s a simple design, but at the same time, it feels really calm.” — Kristie Carter, homeowner

FROM LEFT A light-colored palette keeps their retreat bright and airy in both the bedroom and bathroom.

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The kitchen, with custom hickory cabinets and long kitchen island, is the gathering place for the Carters and friends.

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home + design

DIY

whether the background wall will contrast with the wood slats or be a similar color. Prep the wall as needed with the chosen paint color.

illustration by Sophie Barlow

INSTALL The first slat is the most important—if it’s not straight and level, the rest of the wall will be crooked. Use a level to ensure it is straight, not the walls or existing trim. Attach the slat to the wall at multiple points using a Brad nailer, so the board is flat and there are no air gaps between wood and wall. There are various methods for nailing, such as applying nails at an angle on either side of the board in an X-pattern, or adding a nail at the front, at the top, middle and bottom of the board. Use the method that’s best for your walls. Take a piece of scrap wood (just a shorter 1x2), put it on its short edge flush with the first slat, and line up the second slat against it for a tight fit. The scrap wood is used to make sure the spacing between the slats is consistent and uniform across the wall. Proceed until all the slats are applied.

Build a Wood Slat Accent Wall IT DOESN’T look like it, but a wood slat accent wall is a fairly beginnerfriendly project. The idea is to create an accent wall in your room of choice— perhaps in an entry or hallway—composed of a series of 1x2 boards. It’s a modern look that adds architectural character, warmth and texture. GATHER WOOD Measure for the accent wall dimensions, getting height and length. This project is based around boards that are listed as 1 inch x 2 inch x 8 feet (or 10 feet, depending on ceiling heights), yet the actual dimensions of the boards will be smaller, about 3/4 inch x 11/2 inch. However, since there is about a 1/2-inch gap between each board, to determine the number of slats needed, just divide the length of the wall (in inches) by two, and add an extra board or two to the cart for mishaps. As for the slat material, choose between MDF (ideal if painting the boards) or wood, like

pine or poplar (which looks great unfinished or stained). Lastly, think about where the slats will meet junctures with window or door trim, the ceiling and baseboard. For the latter, add a strip of 3/4-inch quarter-round to the top of the baseboard before installing the slats, so they have a ledge to rest on and look more finished. Or, remove the baseboard altogether so the slats meet the floor. PREP EVERYTHING Cut the slats to the correct height, sand if using pine, and paint or stain the wood slats as needed. If going for a natural look, just seal with polyurethane. Consider

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home + design

Get the Look of Meena Lodge

Since The New York Times reported that black plastic kitchen tools may expose users to toxic chemicals, let’s swap them out for wood versions. Jonathan’s Spoons is based in Pennsylvania and has spoons, spatulas and tongs galore, like flame-blackened “wild spoons” or the “lazy spoon,” designed with a notch to rest on the lip of a pot. www.woodspoon.com

Mirrors are an excellent tool for bouncing around natural light, making a room feel bigger and accommodating the passing primp session. For a mirror that’s both functional and stylish in its own right, check out Schoolhouse’s Bobbin Ash Mirror. It’s available in three shapes and made of solid wood.

The Portland-based Notary Ceramics started when Sarah Van Raden rekindled a love for clay ten years after a college class, gradually turning the passion into a successful woman-run business. Now there’s a lovely store in Sellwood for browsing Van Raden’s goods—we’re partial to these simple candle holders for dressing up the table—and to see how they mix with other beautiful handmade homewares. www.notaryceramics.com

www.schoolhouse.com

When it comes to lounging, the Hawthorne Sofa from Perch Furniture in Portland doesn’t mess around. With a kiln-dried hardwood frame and no flame retardants in the cushions, it has a low-slung profile that beckons for a binge session. www.perchfurniture.com

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Matthew Grimes/G-Rhymes Imaging

artist in residence

Common Ground Multidisciplinary artist Jason Graham uses all of Oregon for inspiration written by Daniel O’Neil

IT’S HARD TO LABEL Jason Graham as an artist. But that’s not because he doesn’t really make art. He’s a full-time artist, aka MOsley WOtta. It’s more a question of what type of artist he is: painter, musician, poet, documentary filmmaker? Add to this the fact that Graham’s work invokes some weighty themes, like race and the notion of community in Oregon, and it becomes clear that Graham is harnessing the transcendental ability of art to address the complexity of life’s joys and injustices, as only a dedicated artist can. Graham has lived in or near Bend since 1992, during his childhood. He had creative types around him—family members who write, play music, dance—during his upbringing. But the message within his art was gathered from his lived experiences with race. Growing up African-American in Central Oregon was not the same for Graham as it was for most other kids. “It can feel really lonely and isolating, which is one of the things that racism is good at—separating, isolating and making people feel alone or less than, or like they can’t connect,” Graham said. So he responded with images, sounds and spoken word. “Art is a beautiful door for us to go into topics that are often prohibitive or seemingly dangerous, or too big or abstract,” Graham said. “Art really helps us to translate a lot of the things that are very difficult to put into words alone.” After years committed to refining his various talents, and his message, Graham has arrived at a place where he is able to approach the different genres individually and collectively. His paintings have been included in shows like Black Artists of Oregon at the Portland Art Museum and the traveling exhibition

Black Matter, and he’s now working on commissioned paintings, including one for an ongoing series with the Salem Art Association. Graham has lately recorded enough music to release songs over the next two years. “One thing I’m really excited about with all these projects is evolving Blackness beyond the idea of race and more as an origin space for where our creativity comes from,” Graham said. Another current project of his, a docuseries called Sketch and Release, has allowed Graham to explore art, Blackness and community by presenting Black artists from rural Oregon. Sketch and Release, which is currently in production, focuses on the experience of being Black and of being a creative in relation to Oregon and the state’s difficult racial history. But it also considers how the landscape itself has directly or indirectly impacted the creative work of Black artists who live and create well beyond Oregon’s urban hubs. “Through Sketch and Release it’s fascinating to experience these ways in which we’re looking at the world, the ways in which we’re creatively participating in our communities, the kind of conversations we’re having about where our inspiration

ABOVE Jason Graham, aka MOsley WOtta, utilizes the walls of Scalehouse Gallery in downtown Bend as canvas for his exhibition “Fate of Understanding.” These works are then painted over, permanently incorporating them into the gallery space through their impermanence.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

“Art is a beautiful door for us to go into topics that are often prohibitive or seemingly dangerous, or too big or abstract. Art really helps us to translate a lot of the things that are very difficult to put into words alone.”

MOsley WOtta

comes from or why we do this,” Graham said. “And it’s to find that while we’re all definitively uniquely different, there are some clear through lines that are forming a kind of archipelago or constellation. Even though we haven’t even met each other, we’re all very much connected.” Artist and curator Tammy Jo Wilson included Graham in her project Black Matter, and she is now working with him on Sketch and Release. Wilson appreciates Graham’s ability to apply all of his artistic pursuits toward a determined end. “MOWO has this remarkable capacity to oscillate through the right and left sides of his brain, joining together language and symbols, as poetry, and as action, incorporated into drawings that somehow do the same,” Wilson said. “His music is not unlike his paintings in that there are multiple MORE ONLINE ideas running side by side semi-harmoniListen to MOsley ously to a complicated conclusion. His art WOtta’s new song “Love How We Make doesn’t try to give answers—it interrogates It” at www.bit.ly/ the questions. And his work provides a catalovehowwemakeit lyst for honest conversations about the realities of racial injustice, continued harm and our culture’s tolerance of intolerance.” Graham has stories to share—his own, those of others and collective, communal stories—that examine the depths of society in a place like Oregon. “Something that can be difficult about being in a place like this, which is one reason why we’re doing Sketch and Release, is that you can feel like the community that you’re in is not the community that you’re of.” Despite the painful subject and history of racism that Graham fearlessly embraces in his art, the objective remains forwardlooking and optimistic. “What I’m finding is that whether it’s the paintings or the music or Sketch and Release, they’re all part of this larger world that we’re building,” Graham said. “It’s in deep consideration of how we are going to be in healing spaces with each other, how we’re going to be in helpful spaces with each other and how we’re going to work through difficult spaces with each other. It’s really just creating a whole world—reverse engineering from that future, and imagining back to now.”

MOsley WOtta

— Jason Graham, aka MOsley WOtta

FROM TOP Jason Graham’s Point Less. Graham with his painting Money See Monkey Do.

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MY WORKSPACE 40

pg. 40 Cassandra Lee finds her niche between art and animals.

Sarah Waters

GAME CHANGER 44

my workspace

Imagine waking up each morning and asking yourself, “What if?” While fiber artist Cassandra Lee describes herself as being “a flake” because she never settled on one career path, those who know her see a multitalented artist and, as one of her friends describes her, a “lifelong learner.” Lee’s current artistic venture is squarely focused on textile art, but in her past she has assumed such roles as a screen printer, café owner and volunteer teacher of ceramics to grade school children.

Artist Running Amok Cassandra Lee pushes back against convention for a refreshing aesthetic written by Joni Kabana photography by Sarah Waters

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my workspace

At the early age of around 8, Lee learned how to embroider pillowcases. Her love of textiles expanded to sewing, learning the craft on her mother’s 1950s Singer sewing machine that still resides in her home today. Soon, Lee was working on kingsized cross-stitched quilts, repurposing blue jean material, and moving on to clay, charcoal drawings, stone carving, encaustics and wood working. At the age of 40, Lee enrolled in the Pacific Northwest College of Art.

Today, Lee can be found at various art shows peddling her uniquely designed whimsical pillows that feature farm animals, fish and insects. Her pillows are made from repurposed materials, and each one carries the message, “Let your imagination run wild.” She works from color intuition, breaking color wheel rules, matching unlikely patterns and hues. The result is a surprising and delightful piece of art that tickles the fancy of those who come across one of her pillows.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

my workspace

Lee also works with broken or disassembled jewelry incorporating embroidery stitching and felted wool to create tiny wall hangings that are intricate and spellbinding. She layers the pieces onto each other, forming a random shape that once again does not conform to usual patterns. While Lee incorporates erratic styles in her work, she is meticulous with her execution, reworking a piece until she is satisfied with the outcome.

Lee’s recommendation for any artist is to “go down a path, hang and see where it leads you. Have no expectations, continue working. Relish what you might think are failures as they may spark a different path at a later time.”

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717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.Maloys.com

Be my rock

For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.

Discover Newport

game changer

Coastal Barkers Nonprofit helps to buoy Newport’s local sea lions—and bayfront commerce written by James Sinks YOU CAN hear them before you see them. Nobody is quite sure what they’re talking about, but pretty much everybody is able to find the source of the ruckus along the historic waterfront in Newport: a lazy scrum of sea lions basking and jockeying for space on dedicated floating platforms just off Port Dock One in Yaquina Bay. The barking fellas are one of the region’s more popular tourist attractions, sometimes drawing hundreds of people hourly to laugh and watch the action and wonder just how big a California sea lion can get (really big, like more than 1,000 pounds). The popular and free-to-visit pinniped posse also translates into customers for nearby businesses and eateries. So when a massive winter storm careened into Newport in late 2022 and

tore all of the connected floating platforms loose from their pilings—one ended up miles away up the bay—it wasn’t just a downer for the resident sea lions and disappointed tourists. It was an economic jolt to the bayfront. Fortunately for the sea lions and their fans, several new platforms were in place by the following August, thanks to donors and the Newport Sea Lion Docks Foundation, with its two-decade-and-counting mission to install and maintain the docks as a tourist attraction. As a result, the sea lions—all of them males, and among them two big boys who locals have named Ivan and Skiff— could plop back onto their familiar, crowd-pleasing roosts after returning from their annual monthlong summer sojourn to mate in the Channel Islands off the California coast. “When we didn’t have the docks, tourists were really bummed. People come from across the world, and part of the reason to come to Newport is to see the sea lions,” said Janell Goplen, who leads the foundation, runs a boutique marketing and artificial intelligence consulting firm, and co-owns several Newport restaurants with her husband. One of those eateries is

ABOVE Newport’s floating sea lion platforms, pictured here before recent replacements, are a draw for visitors to Oregon’s central coast.

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game changer

Discover Newport

Clearwater Restaurant, which has indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the harbor and the sea lions below. The usually sleepy nonprofit typically doesn’t have to deal with any crises, with a small board that raises money from visitors and local businesses and via grants from entities like the Oregon Community Foundation to pay for educational signage, a website with a live web cam and periodic replacement of the docks, said Goplen, who is the second director in its history. But the 2022 dock disappearance pushed the nonprofit into quick action and into the spotlight, because there wasn’t much money in the bank after just replacing the docks the prior summer. It also caused some rethinking of the sort of docks to buy going forward, given the short lifespan of the predecessors and the increasingly temperamental weather on the coast. Sea lions bask together Donations poured in, mostly in the on the docks in Newport. $10 to $20 range, from thousands of people who wanted to help bring back their loud friends, who after losing their perches were hauling out of the water further away, style that incorporated concrete and foam, Goplen said. And the new ones have stayed put so far, while ably accommodaton the breakwater and other spots. Separately, the Discover Newport destination marketing or- ing the thousands of pounds of pinnipeds that park and preen ganization also pitched in half of the replacement cost. The on them. There wasn’t enough money to replace all of the platforms, grand total came to about $80,000. Wayne Patterson, executive director of Discover Newport, she said, so fundraising is ongoing. In addition, the nonprofsaid the platforms are a feel-good signature Oregon destina- it would like to add more sea lion spaces as cashflow allows. tion and a positive community investment. He wouldn’t say if “Our goal is to add more docks, and we have space for three he was worried the displaced sea lions might have relocated to more, extending out.” Visitors to Port Dock One can use a QR code on the dock the nearby visitor information center lobby, without their local to pitch in a few bucks. While there, don’t forget to also say docks to congregate upon. “We can certainly hear the sea lions bark from our offices,” hello to Skiff and Ivan. Chances are, they’ll also be talking, he said. “The Sea Lion Docks are a fantastic tourist attraction about something. for the bayfront.” The 2023-installed versions are Oregon-made and fashTo learn more about the Newport Sea Lions Docks Foundation LEARN MORE or watch a live stream of the docks, visit www.newportsealions.com ioned of durable and buoyant plastic, rather than the previous

“When we didn’t have the docks, tourists were really bummed. People come from across the world, and part of the reason to come to Newport is to see the sea lions.” — Janell Goplen, head of the Newport Sea Lion Docks Foundation

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The Ultimate

Foodie’s Road Trip Guide

to the Oregon Coast written by Jean Chen Smith | illustrations by Jenna Lechner

The Oregon Coast offers some of the most stunning landscapes in the state. Although hugely popular in the summer and fall, spring is actually an excellent time to go because the temperature tends to be mild and you will likely experience fewer crowds. Although you might encounter rain, as Oregonians, that is nothing new, so just be prepared by dressing appropriately. Along with spectacular vistas and hiking trails, the 363-mile stretch along the Pacific Ocean showcases a solid roster of restaurants worth visiting. Whether you work your way from Astoria down to Brookings, or start from the south and head north, our lineup features some of the best spots to stop along the way, in addition to accommodations to relax and get some shut-eye.

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Seafood doesn’t get fresher than from Astoria’s South Bay Wild Fish House, owned and operated by Rob and Tiffani Seitz and family. (photo: Daniel Stark)

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Astoria Established in 1811, Astoria is the oldest city in Oregon, with many historical buildings and landmarks. In the 1900s, it had a large Scandinavian population, which is reflected throughout the city in various places, including the Astoria Nordic Heritage Park and Suomi Hall, Finnish Brotherhood Lodge #2. Broder Strand, at the historic Commodore Hotel, serves fare such as Danish pancakes, Finnish porridge

and trout Benedict. (258 14th St., Astoria; www.commodore hotelastoria.com/broder) For American classic dishes, head to Fort George, a family-owned brewpub. Fort George has been making beer in Astoria since 2007. You can grab delicious food from the downstairs pub, the upstairs area or the Lovell Taproom.

ABOVE, TOP Since 2007, Fort George has been crafting award-winning beer. Its brewpub is also tops among breweries. ABOVE, BOTTOM Overlooking the Columbia River at the mouth of the Pacific Ocean, Bowline Hotel also offers a different view, with barrel saunas. (photos, from top: Fort George Brewery, Adrift Hospitality)

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Feast on creative fare such as its vegan Nashville chicken, beer-battered albacore or orange chipotle chicken wings, and choose from a wide selection of beers on tap. Head upstairs for wood-fired pizzas and decadent desserts. Set in a renovated 1920s auto shop, the spacious restaurant also has plenty of outdoor seating, which is perfect if you have your pup with you. (1483 Duane St., Astoria; www. fortgeorgebrewery.com) South Bay Wild Fish House is a no-frills spot serving fresh seafood that is caught from the family’s commercial fishing vessel. Order at the counter, take a seat and enjoy mouthwatering options, including crab cakes, hearty clam chowder and fry bread with a seafood topping of your choice. You will need to plan ahead though, because the fish house is popular and wait times can be long. (262 9th St., Astoria; www.southbaywild.net)

Stay: If you want a unique experience with spectacular views of the Columbia River, book a stay at Bowline Hotel, which is located right along the pier. You will be close to the center of it all, with restaurants and shops only minutes away. Contemporary rooms feature maritime themes, with flat-screen televisions, mini fridges and cozy fireplaces. Try the cozy cedar barrel saunas overlooking the river—it is the perfect spot to relax. Grab breakfast at the restaurant, The Knot Bar, which has a seasonal menu. (1 9th St., Astoria; www.adrifthospitality.com/ bowline-hotel)

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Seaside Known for its bustling promenade and walkable beaches, this quaint coastal town offers visitors plenty of fun attractions, along with some standout eateries. When visiting Seaside, make sure to stop by Camp 18 Restaurant, which has been a mainstay for loggers since the mid 1980s. The historic log cabin building showcases a large stone fireplace and antler chandelier, along with other wood carvings that reflect a bygone time in the state’s logging history. If you are a brunch fan, you will not be disappointed with savory plates such as biscuits and gravy, eggs Benedict or chicken-fried steak. Camp 18 also serves lunch and dinner, paying homage to the lumberjack diet, with dishes such as the lumberjack burger and the “riggin’ boss.” (42362 US-26, Seaside; Camp 18 Restaurant & Giftshop on Facebook) Just minutes away from Seaside is Gearhart Bowl &

Fultano’s Pizza, a bowling alley and restaurant that serves delectable pizza, salads and fries, along with beer and wine. Fultano’s offers a full spectrum of pizza pies, including the spicy Pacific shrimper, the porkey pig and, of course, the everything. Pick a lane, grab a seat and roll up your sleeves for a night of fun. Fultano’s has happy hours Monday through Friday, from 2 to 6 p.m. You can also get take out and delivery from Fultano’s. (3518 US-101, Gearhart; www. gearhartbowl.com)

Stay: Make the Best Western Plus Ocean View Resort your base camp for all your adventures. The low-key hotel is centrally located to restaurants and shops. It is also within walking distance to the Seaside Aquarium and the Seaside Museum and Historical Society. Some rooms offer spectacular ocean views; plus, you are mere steps from the beach. (414 N. Prom, Seaside; www. oceanviewresort.com)

The 1.5-mile Seaside Promenade is the perfect place for a stroll or bike ride. (photo: Gregor Halenda/City of Seaside Visitors Bureau)

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Building on its Pacific City fandom, Pelican Brewing Company opened a beautiful new location in Siletz Bay in 2022. (photo: Pelican Brewing Company)

Cannon Beach Best known for the iconic Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach features a wide range of offerings, regardless of your palate. Revel in delicious pastries, breads and really good coffee at Sea Level Bakery + Coffee. The cute café makes all of its baked goods from scratch daily, so be sure to get there before they sell out. The bakery also offers a good selection of gluten-free options. On warmer days, you can enjoy your pastries on the patio, which is dog-friendly. (3116 S. Hemlock St., Cannon

Beach; www.sea levelbakery.com) Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, but where it really shines is its seafood options. Some favorites include the calamari appetizer, Oregon pink shrimp ceviche and salmon dinner. Everything is made-to-order and served with a friendly smile. Wayfarer has been serving Northwest coastal fare since 1977, so you should expect that level of experience when you visit. (1190 Pacific

The cedar-shake Sea Level Bakery + Coffee in Cannon Beach is part of everyone’s morning regimen. (photo: Broken Banjo Photography)

Dr., Cannon Beach; www. wayfarer-restaurant.com)

Stay: Rest your weary head at luxury beachfront hotel The Stephanie Inn. The three-story property gives visitors perfect views of Haystack Rock. Settle in for a refined experience with large Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces and an indulgent complimentary breakfast with your stay. For a delightful gastro experience, book a seat in their dining room, where chef Aaron Bedard will spoil you with creative dishes, using fresh and locally sourced ingredients. (2740 Pacific

Ave., Cannon Beach; www. stephanieinn.com)

Lincoln City Not only will you find an abundance of sea glass along the coastline in this idyllic beach community, there are also some hot spots for grabbing savory clam chowder and fresh seafood. Kyllo’s Seafood & Grill is a solid choice—it has been serving the area with delicious offerings for more than thirty years. Plus, it has something

for everyone on its menu. Although Kyllo’s serves pasta, pizza and burgers, the seafood is the winner here. Menu items include local rockfish tacos, fisherman’s cioppino and halibut mac and cheese. Make sure to arrive hungry because the portion sizes are generous. Go during happy hour for great prices and a lively atmosphere. (1110 NW 1st Court, Lincoln City; www. kyllosseafoodandgrill.com) Perhaps best known for its famous clam chowder, Mo’s Seafood & Chowder is an iconic Oregon Coast staple. Established in 1977, the local chain serves seafood, salads, burgers and pastas, but you should definitely order the chowder. Although Mo’s gets busy in the high season, it is well worth the wait. Plus, you will enjoy views of the Siletz River inlet. (860 SW 51st St., Lincoln City; www.ilovemos chowder.com) Pelican Brewing Company opened its Siletz Bay location in 2022. Set in a beautiful building with breathtaking water views, the restaurant serves the same classics as its other locations. Enjoy satisfying burgers alongside crispy fries, seasonal salads and seafood-focused entrees. Oh, and, of course,

award-winning beers. Pelican also offers brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Make sure to stop and peruse the fun gift shop on the way out. (5911 US-101, Lincoln City; www. pelicanbrewing.com/pubs/ siletz-bay)

Stay: Looking Glass Inn is nestled in the Taft District of Lincoln City, right along the waterfront, across from Mo’s. The small motel gives guests the feeling of staying in a quaint neighborhood. Rooms are well-appointed and spacious, with soft, pillow-top mattresses and cozy sitting areas. A grab-and-go continental breakfast is included in your stay. (861 SW 51st St., Lincoln City; www.looking glassinn.com)

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One of Lincoln City’s finest restaurants, Kyllo’s Seafood & Grill hits the spot with seafood, halibut mac and cheese, cioppino and other specials. (photo: Kyllo’s)

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

FROM TOP Luscious crab cakes from Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport. (photo: Aubrie LeGault) Sea Lions in respite at the Sea Lion Caves just north of Florence. (photo: Charlie Chul Sung/ Eugene, Cascades & Coast)

Newport Newport, also known as the Dungeness Crab Capital of the World, is the home of Oregon’s largest fishing fleet, along with walkable beaches and two historic lighthouses, Yaquina Head Lighthouse and Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. Both structures were built in the 1800s and are open to the public. When visiting Newport, do not miss Local Ocean Seafoods, one of my go-to favorite stops to enjoy fresh seafood, while taking in the beautiful views. Ask to be seated on the second floor, where you will have a good view of the bustling port. Although the tuna niçoise and house-made crab cakes are two standout dishes, you cannot really go wrong here. Everything is fresh and made to order. The bi-level restaurant also sells fresh-caught fish and seafood at the front counter, so grab something on your way out. (213 SE Bay Blvd., Newport; www. localocean.net)

Stay: Inn at Nye Beach is a cozy oceanfront property that is centrally located. The polished hotel features charming rooms with comfortable beds and gas fireplaces. A continental breakfast and weekly wine tasting are offered to guests staying at the inn. (729 NW Coast St., Newport; www.innatnyebeach.com)

Florence Florence is worth a visit because of its many activities and nearby historic landmarks, such as the Heceta Head Lighthouse. For expansive vistas, head to the Cape Perpetua Overlook. Make it a point to stop by the Sea Lion Caves, especially if you have kids. The large display of sea lions is truly a sight to behold. For an elevated dining experience, try The Waterfront Depot, an American bistro offering diners coastal

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

FROM TOP Yaquina Head Lighthouse, just north of Newport, was built in 1873. (photo: Travel Oregon) Braised lamb shank from The Waterfront Depot in Florence. (photo: The Waterfront Depot)

cuisine with a wide variety of cocktails and wines. Set along the romantic riverside, it is the ideal setting for an anniversary or birthday dinner. Choose from freshly prepared seafood, house-made pastas and high-quality steaks. Start with the focaccia and basil parmesan pesto for the table. Highlights include the arroz con marisco seafood bowl and crab-encrusted halibut. For carnivores, the Depot serves an impressive chimichurri steak with sweet potato fries. (1252 Bay St., Florence; www. thewaterfrontdepot.com)

Stay: Driftwood Shores resort is an oceanfront retreat offering casual rooms with balconies. Suites feature spacious living rooms, fireplaces and full kitchens. The Market and Deli serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The resort also has a heated indoor pool and aquatic area for kids. (88416 1st Ave., Florence; www.drift woodshores.com)

Brookings This picturesque town is a great destination for whale watching. Although December through March are the best months for spotting whales, it’s possible for yearround sightings. It is also a thriving community with a wide variety of eclectic restaurants. While there are many to choose from, these are two of our favorites. Black Trumpet Bistro, located along Brookings’ main street, serves New American MARCH | APRIL 2025

cuisine with Italian influences. The kitchen partners with local purveyors to incorporate fresh, local ingredients. You will find classic standbys like cioppino, beef stroganoff and chicken marsala. (625 Chetco Ave., Brookings; www. blacktrumpetbistro1.com) If you are looking for good food and casual vibes, you will find it at RH Pub & Grill, which is best known for its hand-tossed garlic fries and flame-grilled burgers. It is a family-friendly spot with a huge menu and food options for your little ones at reasonable prices. (401 Oak St., Brookings; www.rhpuband grill.com)

Stay: Beachfront Inn, located right along the oceanfront, features comfortable rooms with televisions, microwaves and mini fridges. Suites offer more space, with separate sitting areas, soaking tubs and balconies. There’s a heated outdoor pool and a hot tub. The Beachfront Inn also provides a complimentary breakfast. You are only a short drive away from the Port of Brookings Harbor and Harris Beach State Park. (16008 Boat Basin Road, Brookings; www.beachfront inn.com)

The savory cioppino from Black Trumpet Bistro in Brookings. (photo: Black Trumpet Bistro)

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Hayden Glacier is located in Oregon’s Central Cascades. Around 1950, Oregon had fifty-three named glaciers. Today, about half remain. (photo: Nicolas Bakken-French)

he spring of 2024 suggested an endless winter. In the last two weeks of April, Timberline Lodge gained 2 feet of snowpack. Ski resorts on Mount Hood and Mount Bachelor extended their seasons. By Independence Day, however, summer had come in hot with five straight days of record-high temperatures, leading to the warmest July on record for Portland, Redmond and elsewhere. Globally, 2024 was the hottest year ever measured. Until recently, that snowpack would have fed Oregon’s glaciers. But consistently high summer temperatures now melt that snow earlier in the year, exposing the glaciers, which respond by losing mass and eventually ceasing to flow. A glacier that no longer flows, meaning it no longer gains new ice up high and melts older ice at its lowest elevation, is not a glacier anymore. It’s stagnant ice or a permanent snowfield—in a sense, dead. Around 1950, Oregon had fifty-three named glaciers, spanning the Cascade Range from Mount Hood to Mount Thielsen, plus a few in the Wallowa Mountains. Today, about half of those remain. (Determining if a glacier still flows proves a complicated task.) Oregon’s southernmost glaciers now live on Broken Top, just west of Bend. The Wallowas are glacierless. Glaciers across the planet are receding, and the global thermometer continues to climb. Oregon is already beginning to feel the effects of retreating glaciers. The state’s drinking water sources are not yet at risk, because these rely on snowpack and rainfall. But some of its most significant fish-bearing streams and irrigation sources are threatened by the ongoing loss of ice. Until we can cool the planet by cutting out greenhouse gases, Oregon can expect to lose more glaciers and, with them, some of its identity. “If you want to put it in context, Oregon’s going to be more like California,” said glaciologist Dr. Andrew Fountain, professor emeritus of geology at Portland State University. “Our glaciers are shrinking, and they’ll just be these little tiny ice patches like they are in California, nothing very big. Mount Hood will look more like Mount Lassen because Lassen doesn’t have any glaciers.” 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

OUT

OF ICE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Oregon’s glaciers are disappearing, and taking their water with them written by Daniel O’Neil 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 55

s great, frozen reservoirs, glaciers supply steady, reliable streamflow in late summer, after the snowpack has melted, a crucial time for things like endangered salmon and irrigated farms. Their runoff becomes especially critical in drought years, which have become increasingly common on both sides of the Cascades. Oregon’s tallest and northernmost peak, Mount Hood, is the state’s bastion of glaciers. Salmon, pears and recreational pursuits like mountaineering and summer skiing all depend on Hood’s glaciers from late July to early August. Mount Hood’s glaciers may be best situated to endure the new climate in Oregon, but a recent report using two decades of research described this century’s decline as “unprecedented.” Dr. Anders Carlson, president and founder of the Oregon Glaciers Institute, led that study. “The glacier loss of Mount Hood is accelerating,” he said. “You don’t have to look back a hundred years. Look at photos from just ten years ago and compare them to now. Even at that time scale, it’s bad, and even shorter than that.” The study found a “dramatic retreat of all glaciers” on Mount Hood. The mountain’s seven largest glaciers have lost roughly 45 percent of their area since 1907, and 25 percent since 2000. Included in this grouping are the Eliot, Coe, Reid and Sandy glaciers, which feed the mountain’s most important agricultural areas and fish-bearing streams. Glisan, like Palmer above Timberline Lodge, is no longer a glacier, and others are nearing stagnation. Because glaciers provide streamflow in summer only, after the snowpack has melted and drained off, their contribution becomes stabilizing for river systems like the Hood and Sandy. Especially in drought years, glacial meltwater proves critical for juvenile and spawning salmon and steelhead trout, and other fish, in the Sandy River and Hood River basins. Glaciers also account for 40 to 70 percent of latesummer streamflow in the upper Hood River watershed. “The people who will be affected the most by this [decline of Oregon’s glaciers] are the folks on the north side of Mount Hood, where they have the apple and pear orchards,” Fountain said. “Their August, September and maybe October water flows will be reduced by about half by the end of the century, probably.” Five irrigation districts operate in the Hood River watershed. In response to present and upcoming changes in water availability, and economic incentives, water conservation efforts have increased here. The Hood River Watershed Group has helped the irrigation districts fundraise to convert to water-saving pressurized pipes. “I think the irrigation community is very concerned, so they’re positioning the industry to operate on far less water,” said HRWG executive director Cindy Thieman.

“Everybody’s hoping that it won’t be as bad as it could be. If it were five, ten years out until the glaciers were gone, then there would be a lot more conversation about it.” Craig DeHart, general manager of the Middle Fork Irrigation District, said Coe and Eliot creeks, which originate from those glaciers, provide his district with an average of 30 to 40 percent of its water supply. Water conservation efforts have been underway in the MFID for decades now, and while DeHart sees increased water storage as one way to build long-term resilience, he is less worried than others. “Glacial retreat is no more of a threat to agriculture in this area than any of the other issues that producers must deal with,” DeHart said. “The glaciers disappearing would be a whole other discussion. While the glaciers are creeping up the mountain, it is difficult to say that they will go away completely. High-elevation snow is still falling, contributing to snowpack that provides summer water supply.”

nlike farmers, fish can’t take measures to save themselves. For threatened species like Mount Hood’s salmon and steelhead, challenges like low flows, warmer water and more glacial sediment turn the situation to dire in the coming decades. Fish in both the Hood River basin and the Sandy River basin are already affected. On the west side of the mountain, the Sandy River basin is home to some of Oregon’s most robust salmon and steelhead populations. The Sandy offers habitat high up in the forested wilderness, where both glacially fed and rain- and snow-fed waterways contribute to the whole. But, lower flows and higher temperatures are already occurring throughout the Sandy basin. This complicates survival for the fish that spend a year in fresh water before migrating to sea. “The glaciers provide stability as far as water temperatures and flows in the low-flow period go,” said Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife district fish biologist Ben Walczak, who oversees the Sandy River system. “And we’re kind of becoming a more and more unstable basin.” As partners in the Sandy River watershed look at restoration and conservation projects to benefit salmon and steelhead, glacial retreat now figures in analysis and decisions. “We’re trying to look at a lot of climate change modeling to drive those questions so we can have a best guess on where we should put our dollars and what we should work on protecting the most, prioritizing our actions for the next twenty, forty or sixty years,” Walczak said. The Hood River hosts a variety of salmon and steelhead, but it has never been a very productive river for these fish. Too steep and prone to debris flows, the Hood nonetheless provides habitat, especially for winter steelhead. These steelhead are fortunate to spawn in spring, when flows are

photos, clockwise from top left: Harry F. Reid, National Snow and Ice Data Center; Hassan Basagic, The Glacier RePhoto Project; Hassan Basagic, The Glacier RePhoto Project

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1901

2014

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OCTOBER

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Eliot Glacier

Mount Hood

2003

Coe Glacier

2023

Mount Hood

2003

Sandy Glacier

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Mount Hood

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Three Sisters

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Central Oregon

high with snowmelt. Still, the pressure of irrigation withdrawals, warming temperatures, increased glacial sediment loads and diminishing glaciers can spell trouble ahead. Partners in the basin are working to keep more water instream for fish. Hood River area ODFW district fish biologist Jason Seals said the system, for now, still has enough streamflow for fish to survive, but not necessarily to thrive. “Glacial runoff contributes to a significant amount of cold surface water flow, which is critical for salmon and steelhead success,” Seals said. “So it’s important for the community to realize that glacial disappearance will create less water available for critical habitat of these iconic fish in the Hood River basin.”

hen the U.S. Geological Survey first explored Central Oregon’s glaciers in the 1880s, the expedition’s lead geologist noted that the Three Sisters provided “the most interesting field for glacial studies” in the Lower Forty-Eight. About twenty glaciers existed in the area, including one on Mount Bachelor. Today, depending on semantics, fifteen glaciers, or fewer, survive between Broken Top and North Sister. “It’s already just too hot,” Carlson said. “Every summer comes along and the snow, no matter what happens the winter before, disappears completely on these glaciers in the Central Cascades of Oregon. That means the glaciers there are probably going to disappear under the occurring climate. No more warming is necessary to get rid of the glaciers around Bend.” The ebb of glacial extent here affects society in subtle ways. The view of brown peaks in summer already surprises some residents, but it proves a serious complication for skiers, splitboarders and mountaineers looking for something to ride or safely climb in summer. Water remains the main concern, but the area’s rare geology of underground lava tube “reservoirs” hides any signal of glacial decline. As with Portland and Eugene, Bend’s water supply does not issue from glaciers, and neither does the Deschutes River. However, a few important creeks and rivers in the region do depend on glacial meltwater. On the east side of Mount Jefferson, the Whitewater River descends from nearly 1 square mile of ice, the Whitewater Glacier. Because the glacier and river lie entirely within the Warm Springs Reservation, non-tribal glaciologists and fish biologists cannot access this area, and little is known about how features like streamflow and fish habitat may already be affected in late summer. (The Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs declined to comment for this article.)

Whychus Creek, which runs through Sisters, offers an example of what’s to come for glacially fed streams. Efforts to manage the water in Whychus Creek, which is almost all glacial runoff from mid-July into September, reveal the encouraging innovation and collaboration required to ensure that the needs of both fish and irrigation are met each summer. Late-summer glacial meltwater is essential for the irrigation of more than 7,500 acres of farm and ranch land, which diverts up to 70 percent of the flow in Whychus Creek from April through October. That water also provides habitat for threatened and endangered species like bull trout and midColumbia summer steelhead trout. Spring Chinook salmon and summer steelhead, reintroduced to Whychus Creek beginning in 2007, as well as native redband trout, also rely on this steady, cool streamflow. “We’re going to be operating in a scarcity situation in terms of the amount of water available,” said Lauren Mork, monitoring program manager for the Upper Deschutes Watershed Council. “But the partners in the basin—including the irrigation district, nonprofits and funders— continue to work together to figure out how we can keep as much cold water in Whychus Creek as possible and still support irrigation.” The Deschutes River Conservancy is one nonprofit involved with Whychus Creek. DRC executive director Kate Fitzpatrick is alarmed by the glaciers’ fate. “First of all, we should be doing all we can to stop climate change—that’s the real problem,” she said. But Fitzpatrick also sees the

“It’s already just too hot. Every summer comes along and the snow, no matter what happens the winter before, disappears completely on these glaciers in the Central Cascades of Oregon. That means the glaciers there are probably going to disappear under the occurring climate. No more warming is necessary to get rid of the glaciers around Bend.” — DR. ANDERS CARLSON, OREGON GLACIERS INSTITUTE PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER

photos, top row from left: Dr. Steve Boyer, Oregon Glaciers Institute; Nicolas Bakken-French, Oregon Glaciers Institute / photos, center row from left: Dr. Steve Boyer, Oregon Glaciers Institute; Nicolas Bakken-French, Oregon Glaciers Institute / photos, bottom row from left: Frederick Cleator, USDA Forest Service, Record Group 95-G, National Archives and Record Administration, College Park Maryland; Jim E. O’Connor

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1910

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Middle and North Sisters

Central Oregon

discussion surrounding Whychus Creek as an opportunity to highlight the way stakeholders have already begun successfully managing severe water scarcity. “We’re trying to take care of both fish and farmers here,” she said. “It’s still going to be a much tougher water context to work in, but we have a history of working together on strategies to buffer both the creek and the farmers.” Mitigating the effects of glacial retreat on Whychus Creek includes costly fish habitat restoration projects and smarter irrigation. Agencies like ODFW, a partner in the salmon and steelhead reintroduction efforts, already recognize the looming threat. “As we lose snowpack and ice pack, and certain reaches of these streams become more impacted, the preservation and conservation of spring areas and groundwater areas are going to be more important,” said Jerry George, ODFW’s district fish biologist for the Deschutes watershed. “Those are going to give fish a place to go and hold on—a refuge during the low-streamflow, high-temperature period.” The Three Sisters Irrigation District draws its water supply from Whychus Creek. With prolonged drought and water scarcity in mind, the TSID has converted its entire system to pressurized pipes, replacing open canals

that lost half the water to seepage. TSID has also implemented software to aid in water delivery, another conservation tool. “It’s going to be harder to see the consequences, so far, of diminished glaciers when you’re becoming so economical with water,” said Marc Thalacker, a former TSID manager who now serves on the board of directors. Finding solutions for Whychus Creek actually benefits more than fish and farmers. Besides carrying irrigation water, TSID’s 60 miles of piping generate about five million kilowatt hours of power using in-conduit hydroelectric turbines, which are also in operation in districts like Hood River’s MFID. Carbon-neutral TSID sells this electricity to PacifiCorp which, in turn, burns less coal. “It’s a great thing when someday you’re running all your vehicles electrically, and that power is coming from gravity, from green energy,” Thalacker said. “Now you’re completing the circle.”

s the climate quickly warms, glaciers around the world are in retreat. But extinction does not really apply to glaciers. Cool the planet by, for instance, drastically reducing emissions of greenhouse gases, and ice will build and flow again in Oregon.

photos, from left: Ira Williams, scanned from a version published in 1916 in “Some Little-Known Scenic Pleasure Places in the Cascade Range in Oregon,” The Mineral Resources of Oregon, Oregon Bureau of Mines and Geology; courtesy of the Oregon Historical Society, Marshall Family Collection Neg. #311-260; Charles M. Cannon; Jim E. O’Connor

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2010 AUGUST

“It doesn’t have to be this way,” Carlson said. “It’s not like we have a lack of precipitation. All we have to do is make the snow stick around through the summer.” The fastest way toward anthropogenic cooling is by substituting fossil fuels with renewable energy. Although this would take decades, professor Mark Jacobson, director of the Atmosphere/Energy program at Stanford University, remains confident that such change is within reach. According to Jacobson, 97 percent of the energy-producing technologies needed to replace fossil fuel combustion is already available in the form of wind, water and solar power. Nearly two-thirds of Oregon’s energy consumption now comes from those three sources, yet America is now exporting record amounts of oil and gas. “I’m hopeful in the sense that, from a technical and economic point of view, it’s definitely possible to transition everything,” Jacobson said. “It’s more social and political. But people can agree to change—you can make changes at the individual level, at the community level, at the state and national level, and businesses can change as well. Any one of those can do something. Put all of them together, and that’s even stronger.” Until then, the climate will keep warming and glaciers will continue to disappear. “The loss of glaciers is just another symptom of a changing climate, a changing planet,” Fountain said. The effects of glacial retreat in Oregon will not be felt immediately, nor will all of society suffer from

2020 SEPTEMBER

the new late-summer hydrology. But the changes will not go unnoticed forever. “It’s kind of nice knowing that there are glaciers in the high alpine area,” Fountain said. “It’s part of what we take as a normal alpine environment, so there’s an appeal to aesthetics. But, more practically, glaciers are a harbinger of our snowpack, tangible indicators, and that is important to everybody.”

“People can agree to change— you can make changes at the individual level, at the community level, at the state and national level, and businesses can change as well. Any one of those can do something. Put all of them together, and that’s even stronger.” — MARK JACOBSON, PROFESSOR AND DIRECTOR OF THE ATMOSPHERE/ENERGY PROGRAM AT STANFORD UNIVERSITY

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Protecting Oregon’s Beaches photography courtesy of Surfrider Foundation IN OREGON, the beaches belong to the people. Our entirely public shoreline is one of the state’s most treasured resources, a vital legacy we can leave to future generations. Despite that, our public beaches are at risk, caught in what is known as the “coastal squeeze.” Between rising sea levels, increased erosion and coastal development, many Oregon beaches are shrinking. Surfrider Foundation, an environmental nonprofit organization, currently works to tackle these challenges and protect our ocean beaches. The national network engages a growing audience of coastal recreational users in protecting what they love—a community that expands well beyond surfers. Oregon has five active volunteer chapters that rally to protect our public beaches through environmental conservation, stewardship and advocacy programs. The recently launched Oregon Beaches Forever campaign plans to ignite statewide conversations about better managing our beaches and public shoreline along with other critical preservation efforts. You can learn more by visiting www.oregon.surfrider.org/chapters. Upcoming events range from beach cleanups and policy roundtables to surf camps. 62 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

A walker strolls the beach at high tide along an undeveloped portion of the Oregon Coast south of Seal Rock. Undeveloped shorelines such as these offer greater opportunities for preserving public beaches in the face of erosion and climate change. (photo: Charlie Plybon)

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AT LEFT Students line Beverly Beach near Newport following a Surfrider Foundation beach cleanup. (photo: Rob Russo) ABOVE, AT TOP Surfrider’s Oregon chapter network continues its long history of Oregonians fighting to protect their public beaches. That story began in 1967, following the signing of the state’s famed Beach Bill. From combatting plastic pollution to defending shrinking shorelines, Surfrider volunteers in Oregon have continued that movement to safeguard and steward our public beaches for the past forty years. (photo: Chanel Hason) ABOVE, AT LEFT Kids stretch before a surf and stewardship camp in Coos Bay. In Oregon, where the beaches and water can be cold and intimidating, Surfrider orchestrates fun opportunities for kids to learn to surf and steward their beaches with their peers. (photo: Brian Tobin) ABOVE, AT RIGHT Riprap structures are large, stacked boulders used to protect homes, but they can also accelerate erosion of public beaches. (photo: Surfrider Foundation)

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ABOVE, AT TOP Plastic covers the shoreline adjacent to Otter Rock Marine Reserve, at Devils Punchbowl State Natural Area. AT LEFT AND ABOVE Combating plastic pollution through organized cleanup efforts, source prevention programs and policy efforts is another key Surfrider strategy in protecting beaches. The nonprofit’s volunteers organize anywhere from fifty to eighty beach cleanups each year, engaging thousands of Oregonians in the ongoing preservation of Oregon’s beaches. (photos, clockwise from left: Chanel Hason, Andree Devine, R. Gold Photography, Charles Mitchell)

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 70 ADVENTURE 72 LODGING 75 TRIP PLANNER 76

pg. 76 Dune surfing, or sandboarding, in Florence is one of many agenda items for a weekend in this coastal town.

Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 82

Kayt Glazier/Tony’s Crab Shack

travel spotlight

As Fresh as It Gets

No matter your seafood craving, Bandon’s little crab shack has you covered written by Joni Kabana WHO CAN RESIST stopping at a little fish joint that appears to be half pit stop and half old-time diner? At Tony’s Crab Shack in Bandon, the best part of your choice to give this dining establishment a chance is that you will get some of the freshest fish in the sea. Their motto “always fresh, never deep-fried” ensures every bite delivers a burst of seafood flavor. In 1989, Tony Roszkowski arrived in Bandon from his hometown in New Jersey looking for work. While making the rounds applying to jobs, a friend asked him to watch over his tackle shop for the day. Roszkowski took his task to heart and offered a plethora of business improvements to the point that his friend sold him the business. Roszkowski installed a cooker at the side of the tackle shop and began steaming crabs. Visitors loved the offerings so much, Roszkowski soon began offering crab cocktails, oysters, crab sandwiches, grilled halibut, smoked salmon alfredo, fish tacos and various other coastal delights. For those who want to give fishing a good go, the adjacent shop, Port O’ Call, offers all the supplies you need to try your hand at catching Dungeness crab. No experience necessary! There you will find the crab rings and boats to rent, along with some instruction, to become the fisherman you have always wanted to be. At the end of the day, bring your catch in to have it cleaned and cooked. You can’t get much fresher than this. Check www.tonyscrabshack.com for hours of operation and upcoming events. They often host perch and crab derbies and other fun activities. All aboard, matey!

Fresh crab and steamer clams at Tony’s Crab Shack.

Our attractions are always open.

PLAN YOUR NEXT ESCAPE AT BANDON.COM/PLAN-YOUR-ESCAPE Bandon Chamber of Commerce Visitors Center 300 2nd Street, Bandon | 541.347.9616

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adventure

You’re surrounded by all that beauty—it’s just incredible. … Sometimes it’s crystal clear, sometimes it’s drizzly, and sometimes the sun will come out and we’ll see rainbows going right over Cascade Head. I’ve had people hesitate because it’s drizzling, but then they get out there and they’re so excited that they went.” — Tony Gile, Safari Town Surf Shop owner

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Safari Town Surf Shop

adventure

Float and Find Freedom Take a kayak tour on the Oregon Coast for a peaceful escape into nature’s calm written by Cathy Carroll

One of the coast’s top scenic paddles, the Salmon River Estuary can be done solo or with informative tours, such as Safari Town Surf Shop.

THE LAPPING WATER is punctuated by the pterodactyllike call of a blue heron. A bald eagle lands on driftwood nearby. A gray harbor seal, nearly 300 pounds, pokes its rounded head above the surface, its curious eyes and whiskered snout studying you. It’s just another day of kayaking on the coast. If life feels heavy, a kayak can fix that. Becoming buoyant, the weight of the world is literally lifted. A shift occurs—as if you’ve transformed into another species. No longer a twolegged creature on land, other animals such as river otters and elk observe you close up. “You’re just part of the ecosystem,” said Tony Gile, owner of Safari Town Surf Shop in Lincoln City, which leads kayaking tours in the area. “You don’t have a motor, so you’re not being super invasive.” That allows wildlife to approach you. Add the Salmon River Estuary and Nehalem Bay to your must-paddle list. Spring is ideal for fewer crowds. Outfitters provide more than gear (including cozy wet suits) and safety tips; they offer an immersion in coastal ecology and history, from a resort swallowed by the sea to an amusement park reclaimed by nature. Steeped in knowledge, guides can easily navigate novices as well as experts to the most rewarding spots. Gile, who opened his surf shop in 1987, considers the Salmon River one of the West Coast’s premier spots. In less than an hour, you can paddle to where the river empties into the Pacific. There you can resume your two-footedness on the beach at the base of Cascade Head, a towering volcanic headland and protected haven for rare wildflowers, native grassland prairies and wildlife. “You’re surrounded by all that beauty—it’s just incredible,” said Gile. Mercurial coastal conditions enhance rather than impede it. “Sometimes it’s crystal clear, sometimes it’s drizzly, and sometimes the sun will come out and we’ll see rainbows going right over Cascade Head,” said Gile. “I’ve had people hesitate because it’s drizzling, but then they get out there and they’re so excited that they went.” Marine biologist guides lead you from the river’s main channel into secluded passageways deep in the estuary, abundant with wildlife and sheltered from weather. Native Americans, including the Nechesne, once built dugout canoes, fished and thrived here. Along “Kingfisher Alley,” chattering kingfishers hover before diving with their dagger-like bills, snapping up 4-inch trout. In spring, bright white egrets perch in trees, about a dozen in each, like Christmas ornaments. MARCH | APRIL 2025

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Safari Town Surf Shop

Birding and paddling, the Salmon River Estuary surrounds you in nature and with waterfowl.

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experiences you can have,” said Sydney Elliott, owner of Kayak Tillamook. “If I can change somebody’s life for just two and a half hours, I’m going to do it. Nobody leaves with a frown on their face, especially a kid who sees their first harbor seal. They lose their minds. It’s the best.” The outfitter focuses on accessibility with kayaks for all sizes and abilities. “Water is the greatest equalizer,” said Elliott. “Once people get out on the water, it changes them, and they see their world just kind of melt away.” LEARN MORE

Ready to get out on the water? Learn more or book a kayak tour at www.safaritownsurf.com or www.kayaktillamook.com

Kayak Tillamook

Returning to the river’s main stretch, the lush environment appears unchanged since the beginning of time, but it wasn’t always that way. The U.S. Forest Service worked for about a decade since 2007, restoring about 57 acres of wetlands where the defunct Pixieland amusement park once stood. In a reversal of Joni Mitchell’s lyric, they unpaved paradise—removing not just parking lots, but a log flume ride, a narrow-gauge train and an RV park—freeing the marsh once choked by asphalt and concrete. Today, steelhead trout and coho and Chinook salmon swim in the healthy habitat. Farther north in Tillamook County, Cape Meares Lake offers easy paddling amid active beaver lodges, resident elk, bald eagles, a heron refuge and the occasional muskrat. Guides with Kayak Tillamook bring you to areas less traveled, and they’re careful to give wildlife their space, but it’s not unusual to round a corner and suddenly see massive elk, weighing up to 1,200 pounds, antlered and staring back at you. What’s vanished is fascinating, too. Resort community Bayocean bustled on a stretch of land that separated Tillamook Bay from the Pacific in 1906, with a dance hall, hotel, 1,000-seat movie theater, shooting range, bowling alley, tennis courts and 4 miles of paved streets. A jetty built to aid navigation into Tillamook Bay caused the spit to erode and the town to be slowly swallowed by the sea. The power of water here today is overwhelmingly positive, though, especially when kayaking. “You forget about the news, you forget about things that are happening, and it’s one of the most mindful, most present

Kayakers glide past brown pelicans on Cape Meares Lake during a guided tour with Kayak Tillamook.

lodging

Photos: Valley River Inn

ROOMS

The stunning renovation of Eugene’s Valley River Inn, as seen from the lobby.

Lodging

Valley River Inn written by Kerry Newberry EUGENE’S REIMAGINED riverfront retreat exudes contemporary lodge vibes while still preserving its local heritage. Originally opened in 1973, the historic Valley River Inn recently wrapped up a multimillion-dollar renovation, transforming everything from guest rooms to the lobby lounge. Many design elements that celebrate the area’s historic logging industry—from original timber beams to grand chandeliers made from old mill parts—still grace the revived spaces. But you’ll also find fresh artwork and elegant, honey-hued wood pieces made by the locally owned Urban Lumber Co., adding modern flair. One you can’t miss is a stunning, live-edge desk that stretches along shelves of colorful hardback books, a focal point in the lobby. Just beyond this charming book nook, you can relax in the lobby’s sunken living room, where a stunning floor-toceiling hearth brings warmth to the space. No matter the season, you’ll want to take advantage of the property’s prime location. It sits on the Ruth Bascom Riverbank Path System, a collection of leafy trails sprawling along the Willamette River popular with runners, cyclists, walkers and kayakers. The most mesmerizing view, however, is from the riverfront rooms, where the flow of rippling water by starlight and sunrise weaves a spell—a reminder of the singular beauty found at the water’s edge. 1000 VALLEY RIVER WAY EUGENE www.valleyriverinn.com

One of the perks of the hotel’s 1973 heritage is the size of the 250-plus rooms. You’ll find some of the largest guest rooms in Eugene here, all fully renovated with modern amenities and contemporary furnishings from sleek desks to reading sconces. Book a riverfront room for serene morning views. Or for Elvis fans, the Cassanova suite—where the legendary musician stayed in 1976.

AMENITIES Check out the new fitness center, and if it’s pool season, take a dip in the heated outdoor pool. Definitely plan to cycle, run or walk along the city’s prime riverfront trails. The property sits on the Ruth Bascom Riverbank Path System, and runners can follow a path that connects to Pre’s Trail, a popular route dedicated to Steve Prefontaine, one of Oregon’s most legendary distance runners.

LOBBY LIBRARY A statement wall of colorful hardback books is a focal point in the lobby (feel free to check a book out for your stay). The bookish atmosphere is enhanced by a long, live-edge desk made of maple and peppered with reading lamps. Just beyond the reading nook, there’s a sunken living room with a stunning fireplace, statement chandelier and ample space to read, work or relax.

DINING

FROM LEFT A wall of books brings color to the Valley River Inn lobby. Accommodations are roomy and modern.

The lobby market is packed with local snacks to purchase from Kettle Chips to pints of Tillamook ice cream. Head to Sweet Waters on the River for all-day dining and spectacular views of the Willamette River. The menu celebrates the bounty of the Pacific Northwest and sources from Willamette Valley farms, wineries and breweries. Read more on page 19.

trip planner

Have a Blast in Florence The hamlet on the central coast is known for sand sports, serenity and, increasingly, its art written by James Sinks Also, you can celebrate every day that city officials never enforced a poorly written 1977 ordinance that mistakenly banned sex everywhere in town. (Amended, it now just prohibits lewdness outdoors.) A seldom-dry-in-spring seaport in the historical territory of the Siuslaw and Quuiich peoples, Florence initially thrived as a timber and fishery town. Now, it relies most heavily on tourists and retirees. Those ages 65 and older make up 43 percent of residents, more than double the statewide average. Also, don’t expect demolition crews. When whales wash ashore in Oregon nowadays, they’re left to decompose and feed other coastal critters. The folks at Florence’s www.xplodingwhale.com website say there’s wisdom to be gleaned from the 1970 mishap. Not only legendary, it showed the environment should be left to work naturally, they say. Also, importantly, “it’s a lesson in learning from our mistakes.” Happily, there aren’t many bad choices when mapping an itinerary around Florence. Plan for adventure. And, just to be safe from one possible mistake, remember rain gear.

Jacob Pace/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

FIFTYFIVE YEARS AGO, Oregon highway engineers puzzled over removing an 8-ton whale carcass that was rotting—and stinking, badly—on a beach near Florence on the central coast. Their solution: a half-ton of dynamite. They believed the TNT would pulverize the whale into tiny pieces that would be washed to sea, and eaten by shorebirds. Their miscalculation was captured in an epic TV news spot. The blast sent a decaying geyser skyward, raining large pieces of rotting blubber and foul fluid onto onlookers as far as 800 feet away. While nobody was seriously hurt, a chunk of meat did smash the roof of an innocent Oldsmobile. Today, the episode has become a thing of lore, and Florence leans into it. Around the world, you’ll find multiple rose cities and music cities, but only one—at least so far—exploding whale city. While the detonation was in November—and there’s a cheeky annual homage with a moment of silence—year-round you’ll find T-shirts, some of the whale’s bones at the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum and even an Exploding Whale Memorial Park. (It’s not the actual blast site, however.) The whale bits shower isn’t the only local claim to fame. The Rhododendron Festival comes the third weekend of May.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Florence, on the Oregon Coast, is a small-scale romantic town for any season.

Making Happy Memories By The Sea At Driftwood Shores

BOOK YOUR STAY TODAY! 541-997-8263 Florence, Oregon www.driftwoodshores.com

trip planner

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The sweeping Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. Hike into Sweet Creek Falls near Mapleton. Novelli’s Crab & Seafood on the docks in Florence. Skip down to the Pacific for beach play.

Day If your legs ask to stretch during the curvy drive on Highway 126 westward from Eugene, listen. Waterfalls are waiting. Near the former milltown of Mapleton, Sweet Creek—named after a homesteading family—stairsteps down more than ten falls in a lush, forested-and-ferned canyon. Bonus one: The easy riverside trail includes fun metal catwalks built onto the canyon walls. Bonus two: Wildflowers in April and May. Check signs as part of the 2-mile trail is detoured because of a washed out bridge, due to be replaced in early 2025. U.S. Recreation passes are required. Need a post-hike pick-me-up? A perk in Mapleton is the Caffeination Station coffee shop, near a wigwam burner relic of the town’s industrial heyday. Also, Bigfoot may or may not shop at the kitschy Alphabit café and gift shop. It’s another fifteen minutes to Florence. If flags are flying on the pier near Old Town, it means good things (and lunch) are happening at Novelli’s Crab & Seafood, a floating kitchen where the menu options were probably swimming a few hours prior. Housed in a former schoolhouse, the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum offers a quick local primer (and exploded whale bones). Incorporated in 1893, the city was either named after a 1875 shipwreck, or after a state senator at the time of statehood. Florence is home to about 9,500 people. There’s a chance all of them are artists. In Old Town, along the Siuslaw riverfront and in the shadow of the U.S. Highway 101 bridge, you’ll find a gallery of galleries, a community theater and the home of the Florence Regional Arts Alliance, which is also a gallery and displays the handiwork of 128 local artisans. Also in Old Town, there’s a directional pole that points to other cities called Florence in North America (so, no, not Florence, Italy) and a municipal dock where you can toss crab pots into the water. Feeling shaggy or overly sober? At Old Town Barbershop on Bay Street, there’s both haircuts and booze tasting. You might want the haircut first, to avoid regrettable style choices. The pirate-themed spirits, such as Devil’s Own Rum, originate at Stillwagon Distillery, down Highway 101 in Charleston. In 1976, when the Mapleton train depot was due to be demolished to widen Highway 126, the structure was instead sold and floated downriver to Florence. Today, it’s home to The Waterfront Depot restaurant, where you’ll absolutely want to park your caboose. The salmon piccata is sublime, and the only thing more intoxicating than the craft cocktails is the Siuslaw view. Afterward, stroll to happy vibes, weekend live music and more art browsing at The Laughing Crab Gallery & Tasting Room. As a guitar strummed and glasses clinked, owner and former Eugene resident Kim McLaughlin said coastal visitors often miss out on Florence because they’re beelining north to Yachats or south to Coos Bay. Their error. “It’s like a secret little town, in plain sight.” 78 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Jacob Pace/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

WATERFALLS • GALLERIES • SEAFOOD

Day A BEACH MORNING • DUNES • LOCAL BITES The beach beckons on coastal mornings, and Florence has miles of sand to choose from. If your choice takes you near the north jetty, a paved path atop offers views of fishing boats and seals navigating the channel. Seals seem to have an easier time. Does sea breeze fuel artistic inspiration? Find out Saturdays at an open-to-anyone oil painting class at the Regional Arts Alliance. The $40 cost covers everything, including a canvas, but space is limited so reserve ahead. Your brush with greatness lasts from 9 a.m. until noon. If you need fuel, espresso and pastries await next door at Sweet Magnolia Bakery & Cafe.

Lunch options abound in Old Town. At 1285 Restobar, find steamer clams, pizza and five-cheese truffle mac and cheese. At Homegrown Public House & Brewery, order salads, soups and sandwiches (and suds). Or for river views and nostalgia, dive into fish and chips at the southernmost location of venerable Mo’s Seafood & Chowder. The otherworldly terrain of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area stretches some 40 miles from Florence southward to near Coos Bay. How otherworldly? It inspired the Dune science fiction series by the late Frank Herbert, a onetime newspaper reporter in Salem. Like much of Oregon’s backcountry, the sandscape balances competing priorities. Popular for camping, sandboarding, hiking and high-speed off-roading, the dunes also are a nesting habitat of endangered

Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

Thomas Moser/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

trip planner

MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 79

EAT 1285 Restobar www.1285restobar.com BJ’s Ice Cream (541) 997-7286 Homegrown Public House & Brewery www.homegrownpublic house.com The Hukilau www.facebook.com/ thehukilauflorence Jerry’s Place Bar & Grill www.facebook.com/ jerrysplaceflorence Little Brown Hen Cafe www.facebook.com/ LBHC435 Mapleton Caffeination Station (541) 268-4000

Pier Point Inn www.bestwestern.com River House Inn www.riverhouseflorence

PLAY C&M Stables www.candmstables.com Florence Regional Art Alliance www.fraaoregon.org Jessie M. Honeyman State Park www.stateparks.oregon.gov Laughing Crab Gallery & Tasting Room www.thelaughingcrab gallery.com Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area www.fs.usda.gov

Mo’s Seafood & Chowder www.ilovemoschowder.com

The PlayHouse www.facebook.com/ theflorenceplayhouse

Novelli’s Crab & Seafood www.novelliscraband seafood.com

Sand Dunes Frontier ATVs www.sanddunesfrontier.com

Sweet Magnolia Bakery & Cafe www.sweetmagnolia bakery.com

Sand Master Park www.sandmasterpark.com Sandland Adventures www.sandland.com

The Waterfront Depot www.thewaterfront depot.com

Sea Lion Caves www.sealioncaves.com

STAY

Siuslaw Pioneer Museum www.siuslawpioneer museum.com

Driftwood Shores www.driftwoodshores.com Edwin K Bed & Breakfast www.edwink.com Jessie M. Honeyman State Park (yurts/ camping) www.stateparks.oregon.gov

FROM TOP The historic Heceta Head Lighthouse first opened in 1894 and has a Fresnel lens. Old Town Florence’s 1285 Restobar features steamer clams and truffle mac and cheese.

Strawberry Hill tide pools www.stateparks.oregon.gov Sweet Creek Falls Trail www.fs.usda.gov Three Rivers Casino Resort www.threeriverscasino.com

Photos, from top: Thomas Moser/Eugene, Cascades & Coast; Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast

FLORENCE, OREGON

trip planner

snowy plover seabirds, so portions become off-limits between mid-March and September. South of town, several outfitters, including Sand Dunes Frontier ATVs, rent four-wheelers if you’re properly licensed. Rather let somebody else drive? Book a bouncy tour at Sandland Adventures, where some dune buggies can reach 50 miles per hour. Depending how wobbly you feel afterward, Sandland also has (much slower) go-karts and mini golf. For a lower-adrenaline afternoon, cast for hungry bass in Tahkenitch Lake or trek a nearby 6-mile forest-and-dune loop with a milelong stretch of beach. Pro tip: If you do the loop counterclockwise, any sandblasting tradewind gusts will be at your back instead of in your eyes. 80 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

For tiki flair and tropical fare, it’s like visiting a warmer beach at The Hukilau, open Wednesdays to Saturdays until 6:30 p.m. Descended from a popular food truck, the restaurant serves up Hawaiian specialties, cocktails and sushi, including a tempura shrimp Angry Dragon roll. Check for shows at the Florence Events Center or The Playhouse in Old Town, or try your gaming luck and dance moves at Blue Bill’s bar at Three River Casino Resort, run by the Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua and Siuslaw Indians. For a final stop, get acquainted with locals, cheap drinks, billiards and Jell-O shots at Jerry’s Place Bar & Grill. They’re not open late-late, but Florence late.

trip planner

Day SANDBOARDING • LIGHTHOUSE • ICE CREAM Sometimes life poses questions with only one correct answer. At the Little Brown Hen Cafe, when asked whether you’d like beignets, that answer is unequivocally yes. Irresistibly cheery inside, the bistro has an expansive menu and breakfast cocktails, and the meats even include locally hunted elk. If you’re feeding a crowd, there’s the Mother Hen, a $50 morning sampler platter. The avocado toast was also pretty great. It’s cash only. Opened in the 1930s, Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park was once listed among the nation’s best state parks by Life Magazine. It’s still a winner, with yurts, a Civilian Conservation Corps-built daylodge and swimmer-friendly freshwater lakes. Slide a stand-up paddleboard into horseshoe-shaped Cleawox Lake, with trees on one side and dunes on the other, and revel in the serenity. Rather stay dry but still board? Florence is home to the country’s first dedicated dune boarding hill, Sand Master Park, behind Fred Meyer. Rentals are available. Horse lovers can saddle up just north of Florence, where C&M Stables offers trail rides of ninety minutes and longer onto the beach. If you want even more time with animals, it’s only a few miles to the barking menagerie at Sea Lion Caves. The lighthouse at Heceta Head, named after a Spanish naval officer who sailed past in 1775, is one of Oregon’s most photographed spots—and a great place to snap is a Highway 101 cliffside viewpoint. That also happens to be a good vantage to spot migrating whales, which are on the move come springtime. You can walk up to the 56-foot-high lighthouse from a parking lot below, or from the north side of Heceta Head via Hobbit Trail, which also descends to a beach through rhododendrons and gnarled tunnels of branches. As you head north toward Yachats, the terrain becomes rockier, and the shoreline is sprinkled with tide pools, if you want to see stars and make friends of anemones (but no touchy). Find several at the Strawberry Hill Wayside at Neptune State Scenic Viewpoint. On the way back to Florence, visit a natural oddity at Darlingonia State Wayside, where carnivorous pitcher plants lure bugs—and then snack on them. You may soon find yourself lured by bubblegum pink paint to BJ’s Ice Cream, a delicious Oregon mainstay launched in Florence in 1978 by Brian and Jodie Cole (the name comes from their initials). They now have nine locations statewide. It’s a fitting weekend finale because there are no wrong answers, or dynamite. Just fifty-eight flavors of goodness, fudge and taffy. Like visiting Florence, the only mistake would be not going. MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 81

northwest destination

Peruse purple blooms during Lilac Days each spring at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens in Woodland, Washington.

Flower Power (and More) The birthplace of more than a hundred lilac varietals welcomes springtime in unassuming Woodland written by James Sinks

IN A VICTORIANSTYLED farmhouse near The Lilac Lady died in 1960 at the age of 96. Her Washington’s Lewis River, a German immigrant horticultural heritage is still celebrated at her onehelped put the delicate and showy lilac on the time property for twenty-three days every spring, Northwest map—and even put Northwest names leading up to Mother’s Day. on many of those blooms. During Lilac Days, some 15,000 flower fans and Hulda Klager, whose family settled in the comtheir noses prowl the 4-acre homesite and garmunity of Woodland in the late 1800s, first started dens, pacing brick pathways among prodigious grafting and propagating the flowering bushes in patches of purple, lavender, white and pink. Some 1905, initially with the hope of coaxing a cream- The farmhouse of lilac developer blooms are brash, others subtle. Hulda Klager at the Hulda Klager “For many people, lilacs are old-fashioned flowcolored hybrid with a sweet scent. Lilac Gardens. (photo: Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens) ers, and they remind them of their childhood or Mission accomplished, and much more. Known their grandparents, but it also is a place where as the Lilac Lady of Woodland, she is credited with creating more than 100 varietals of the fragrant, delicate everyone can make new memories, with picnics and children running on the grass,” said Mari Ripp, a former Woodland city pompoms that herald the return of spring. She also was one of the better-known early ambassadors for official who now runs the nonprofit Hulda Klager Lilac Society. Admission to Lilac Days is $10—or memberships the plants, which originated in eastern Europe and were finding their way westward. As part of her publicity efforts, several of are $15—and the price includes tours of the house her hybrids were chosen by visiting entourages and named after and sunroom where Hulda did much of her hybridizing magic. cities nearby, including Gresham, Longview and Kalama. 82

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Feel the sonic bloom.

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Cedar Creek Grist Mill

northwest destination

84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

Port of Kalama

The festivities also mark the once-a-year opportunity to take some of her legacy home: Outside the carriage barn and in the shade of the century-old water tower, buy several of her most popular varietals, like the dark purple Frank Klager, named after her husband. The lowland gardens were almost lost twice. First, they were submerged in 1948 by surging floodwaters from the nearby Columbia River—the same flood that destroyed the former community of Vanport between Portland and Vancouver. Afterward, neighbors and customers brought cuttings to help then-83-year-old Hulda restore her life’s passion. Then, after Hulda’s death, the property was eyed for redevelopment. But fifty years ago, a nonprofit formed to protect the house and garden, which are listed on the national historic register. More flowers and history also await discovery, past the garden gate. Less than a mile away, tiptoe for free in the multicolored tulip show gardens at Dobbe Farms, also known as Holland America Flowers, launched in 1980 by a Dutch immigrant family. You can buy bulbs in the gift shop. Up the Lewis River from Woodland, see where local farmers crushed grains and pressed cider at the restored Cedar Creek Grist Mill, a working museum since 1989. Rather crush a few drives? Nearby is the Lewis River Golf Course, and lunch at the North Fork Grill. Just up Interstate 5, the town of Kalama—founded as a rail stop in territory that once was home to Cowlitz tribes—is now a place to purchase the past: The downtown district is home to a popular cluster of antique stores—including the 5,000-squarefoot Kalama Vintage Warehouse mall. Nearby, Antique Deli and Pastry Shoppe sells old-time favorites like BLTs. Across the tracks are two notable newer arrivals. McMenamins’ Kalama Harbor Lodge hotel, opened in 2018, is the only

Port of Kalama

Within the predominantly Dutch community was the Cedar Creek Grist Mill, where farmers brought grain for processing.

northwest destination

WOODLAND + KALAMA, WASHINGTON

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Kalama waterfront is a vibrant area for recreation, commerce and dining. On the deck of Cloud Bar at McMenamins’ Kalama Harbor Lodge. Mountain Timber Market is a collection of food and retail stalls with a cavernous interior.

EAT Antidote Taphouse www.antidotetaphouse.com Antique Deli and Pastry Shoppe (360) 673-3310 Cloud Bar www.mcmenamins.com/ kalama-harbor-lodge/cloud-bar Mountain Timber Market www.mountaintimber.org North Fork Grill www.lewisrivergolf.com

STAY Kalama Harbor Lodge Hotel www.mcmenamins.com Lewis River Inn Woodland www.lewisriverinn.com

PLAY Cedar Creek Grist Mill www.cedarcreekgristmill.org Dobbe Farm www.hollandamericaflowers.com Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens www.lilacgardens.com Kalama Vintage Warehouse www.facebook.com/134N1st Lewis River Golf www.lewisrivergolf.com

McMenamins

Port of Kalama Marine Park www.portofkalama.com

property in the preservation-focused family empire that was built from scratch. The Polynesian-influenced architecture feels more like Maui than rural Washington, and is an homage to Hawaiian fur trapper John Kalama, who lived nearby in the 1800s. Upstairs at the Cloud Bar, grab pints on the deck and watch freighters slide past on the Columbia. Better yet, stay overnight in a river-facing suite—and wander the hallways to find hidden, themed rooms on each floor. Guest rooms are all named after figures from Kalama’s history. From the lodge, riverfront walking trails will take you to the new Mountain Timber Market, a cavernous incubator space with retail stalls, flavorful food truck fare and coffee, plus gelato and Whimsy Chocolates. Inside, you’ll also find a sizable artifact of local import: now on its side, a 140-foot-high totem pole that once towered over the Kalama waterfront. And yes, come spring, you’ll be able to find flowers. MARCH | APRIL 2025

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 85

1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater

Cannon Beach

Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

Pendleton

The Dalles

Joseph La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville Redmond

Sisters Florence

Eugene Springfield

John Day Ontario

Bend Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass

Paisley

Medford Brookings

Jacksonville Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

12 RendezVan

40 Pacific Northwest College of Art

Tony’s Crab Shack

18 Oregon Chocolate Festival

44 Newport Sea Lion Docks Foundation

Safari Town Surf Shop

Valley River Inn

20 The Joel Palmer House Restaurant

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area

36 MOsley WOtta

Woodland and Kalama, Washington

18 Taste of Nordic

86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2025

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Until Next Time Lost in the mist, found in the moment. A quiet pause on the edge of the Oregon Coast—where the wild meets the wandering soul. photo by Brian Holstein

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Continue for Special Insert

FROM THE GREEN

ZEN & THE ART OF

WALKING THE COURSE G

OLF IS a complex game of strategy with intersecting narratives based on perceived ability, course conditions, weather conditions and your own psychological state before, during and after every shot. Why rush it? Instead, make 2025 a year of zen mastery by ditching the cart, walking the course and killing two birdies with the same stone—improving your game and personal fitness. The average golf course in the United States is 6,600 yards, or 3.75 miles. That is a straight line measurement. Only the best golfers can keep their shots along that line. Most of us will hook or slice our way to at least another quarter mile over eighteen holes. It wasn’t too long ago that we all walked the course. In fact, it wasn’t until the mid-1950s that golf carts became widely adopted and used. True, some clubs today have mandatory rules about golfing with carts in order to speed the rate of play. Consider what’s right for you over the long haul, not what’s best for the club.

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2025

FROM THE GREEN BELOW: Kalispel Golf and Country Club (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)

A publication of Statehood Media www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com Cover: Running Y Resort photo: Running Y Resort

2025 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 3

FROM THE GREEN

BE THE PUTTER, NOT THE DRIVER What happens in your body when you walk a golf course? According to Golf.com, walking eighteen holes of 4 miles with hills, while carrying your bag, burns 1,400 to 2,000 calories, quoting an experiment conducted by the Director of the Center for Health and Sport Science and reported on by The New York Times. Fear not—those walking with a pushcart will burn almost the same amount of calories, according to the study. Now, you’re doing what you love and getting the health benefit from its implied exercise value, too. For measure, a martini is no more than 190 calories.

“IF YOU DRINK, DON’T DRIVE. DON’T EVEN PUTT.” — Dean Martin

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2025

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Whether you carry your bag or use a pushcart, walking an eighteen-hole course can be a calorie burner.

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FROM THE GREEN

THE ROLLING CALORIE BAR

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2025

Bigstock

By walking the course and ditching the cart, there are more potential health benefits. Let’s face it—golf carts often become rolling tailgaters with snacks, sodas and alcohol. With the rolling snack dispenser, you can easily gain unhealthy weight while golfing, making each round rounder. Further, the logistics of the course’s ubiquitous beer cart become absurd while walking the course. Water, yes. Wimpy beers, no.

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FROM THE GREEN

“IN ALL CASES, THE WALKERS HAD BETTER FOCUS AND SHOT LOWER SCORES THAN THEIR CART-DRIVING COUNTERPARTS.”

THE ZENEFIT OF BETTER PSYCHOLOGY You’ve hit from the tee; your ball flies out but sails left and may set you back a shot. Your stress inches up—next-shot anxiety trickles in. You’re in a foul mood, and it’s only the second tee. The key benefits of walking are also the key characteristics for better rounds of golf. According to a study from Mayo Clinic (and countless others), walking helps reduce stress and anxiety and improves your mood. The psychological benefits that accrue to a walked round of golf are proven to have a positive effect on the scorecard, too. In a 2022 watershed report from World Journal of Advanced Research and Reviews, the researchers identified a group of ten golfers with an average age of 64 and an average handicap of 10.8 for nine holes. The golfers were split into three groups, with each wearing technology that measured their oxygen consumption, calories burned and heart rate. One group used a golf cart, the second a pushcart and the third a motorized pushcart. In all cases, the walkers had better focus and shot lower scores than their cart-driving counterparts.

Bigstock

KEEPING UP WITH JONES

8 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2025

A walked round of golf can have psychological benefits, too.

If this all seems like a giant leap in life stepping down from the cart, let’s end with a condensed biography of English golfer Ernest Jones, who, by age 18 in 1905, had become the assistant golf professional at Chislehurst Golf Club just outside of London. He came back to golf after serving his country during World War I, but missing half of his right leg from a grenade explosion. Golf was his first love, and so he returned to it in his altered state. Jones took crutches and clubs and walked courses until he could learn to shoot from one leg. So compelling was his game, story and swing, he would go on to teach golf to aspiring pros in New York City, giving nearly 3,000 lessons per year from the A.G. Spalding & Bros. store in Manhattan.

Every stay at Soul Community Planet comes with

sport, scenery, and serenity

SALISHAN COASTAL LODGE BY SCP HOTELS 44.8885° N, 124.0256° W SALISHAN.COM/GOLF

GOLF On The

WILD RIVERS COAST Cedar Bend, Gold Beach, OR. Salmon Run, Brookings, OR. GREENS Driving Ranges Putting Greens 9 Hole CB - 12 Hole SR

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TRAVELCURRYCOAST.COM

Discover the best of Eastern Oregon Quail Ridge Golf Course Baker City

When you come to visit, you'll see why we love it here

Brian Oar | Visit Central Oregon

WHERE TO PLAY

Crosswater at Sunriver Resort (photo: Visit Central Oregon/ Steve Heinrichs)

OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47

CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40

EAGLE CREST RESORT www.eagle-crest.com Redmond, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course

GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82

INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59

OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2025

OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335

RUNNING Y RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95

SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99

SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175

SUNRIVER RESORT www.sunriverresort.com Sunriver, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course

TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190

*Note: Course lengths are given in yards

Experience the Exceptional 50 Miles East of Portland

The club’s name comes from one of the meandering creeks that pose interesting challenges on many of the holes. Even at 6,223 yards, the course places a premium on accurate shot making and requires some creativity. Eleven of the holes have water in play and provide sanctuary to a variety of wildlife. The greens are some of the best in Oregon. Once you have reached them, another challenge awaits!

3605 BROOKSIDE DRIVE, HOOD RIVER, OR 97031 W W W .INDIA N C R EEK G O L F. C O M | 5 4 1 - 3 8 6 - 7 7 7 0

WHERE TO PLAY

WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT

Palouse Ridge Golf Club (photo: Rob Perry)

www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/ Salish Cliffs Golf Club)

STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)

SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $75-$139

SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38

BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100

GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95

THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165

THE HOME COURSE www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49

INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49

PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB

THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW

www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109

www.portludlowresort.com Port Ludlow, Washington Length from back tees: 6,861 $30-$55

PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA

WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB

www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139

www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155

WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2025

IDAHO THE COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99

PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56

TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards

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Swing into Spring Enjoy unlimited golf on the best courses in the West and 30% off lodging this spring with Stay & Play packages at Sunriver Resort. Play the award-winning Meadows and Woodlands courses with our Sunriver Golf Club package, or play all 63 holes with our Crosswater Golf package, including the iconic course hailed as one of “America’s Greatest.”

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1859 Oregon's Magazine + Special Insert: Destination Golf Northwest | March/April 2025

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