1859 Oregon's Magazine + Special Insert: Ski Northwest | November/December 2024

TRIP PLANNER: JACKSONVILLE + THE APPLEGATE VALLEY PG. 92

TOP HOLIDAY EXPERIENCES

Northwest Ski Guide

WINTER ESCAPES

Cooking With Sunchokes

YOUR OREGON GIFT GUIDE

Art Inspired by the Backcountry

FEAST-WORTHY BEER PAIRINGS

BEST OREGON ALBUMS OF 2024

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November | December

volume 89

Discover yourself here.

Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. A highlight of this special neighborhood is a new, vibrant community plaza, Discovery Corner, offering specialty retail and even more amenities to explore.

Ready to start your home search journey? Discover more about our highly-skilled Builders Guild and available new homes, cottages, and townhomes by visiting DiscoveryWestBend.com or scanning the QR code to the right. We also invite you to visit the new Harcourts The Garner Group sales office at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Ochoa Drive.

Classic.

WWW.INNAT5TH.COM

Creative.

Two very special boutique hotels in Eugene's charming 5th Street Public Market.

Scan the QR Code to take a personality quiz to find the perfect hotel for you!

WWW.THEGORDONHOTEL.COM

Here Comes the Sun photography by Daniel Stark At Crown C Farms in Terrebonne, sunchokes are the stars. (pg. 26)

2 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Crown C Farms owner Jim Crocker at his farm in Terrebonne in September.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3

Don your snowshoes for a holiday getaway at Sunriver Resort.

FEATURES NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024 • volume 89

64 Oregon’s Best Holiday Experiences From Oregon Symphony’s Gospel Christmas to Fall River forest bathing and Friendsgiving in McMinnville, find yourself in one of these. written by Cathy Carroll

57 Local Holiday Gift Guide There is no excuse to not buy local when it comes to this list that spans many interests, crafts and the state. written by Jean Chen Smith

72 Lone Rock Fire Tyler Roemer/Sunriver Resort

Our own Joni Kabana tells the story of the Lone Rock Fire with pictures and words in a nearly disastrous event that brought out the best in the small Spray community.

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written by Joni Kabana 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

The coziest Cozy Season.

Amaterra Winery

GET COZY etvor.com/cozy32

Welcome to Tualatin Valley. Around here, even the dreariest of days are filled with warmth and laughter. Join us this winter, just west of Portland, Oregon, and experience our intimate world of wine.

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG/COZY

WCVA_1859_OR_Nov_Dec_2024.indd 1

10/9/24 11:24 AM

DEPARTMENTS NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024 • volume 89

50

LIVE 14 NOTEBOOK

Holiday events, best albums of 2024, Earths to Come film debut.

22 FOOD + DRINK

Holiday beer pairings, new standalone tonics.

26 FARM TO TABLE

Meet the sunchoke + recipes.

34 HOME + DESIGN A tailor-made Tudor.

Petar Marshall

44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Dave Wachs brings out backcountry patterns.

THINK 44

98

50 MY WORKSPACE

Julie Derrick sets up shoe repair in Baker City.

54 GAME CHANGER

Relay Resources provides meaningful employment for people with disabilities.

EXPLORE 82 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Beckie’s Cafe, Umpqua National Forest.

84 ADVENTURE

Dave Wachs

Destination BC/Jordan Dyck

Three seasonal must-do adventures for foodies.

10 Editor’s Letter 11 1859 Online 102 Map of Oregon 104 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Gwen Shoemaker Holiday Lights Paddle Parade in Bend’s Old Mill District (see “Oregon’s Best Holiday Experiences,” pg. 64)

6

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

88 LODGING

Kubli Haus, Jacksonville.

92 TRIP PLANNER

Jacksonville and the Applegate Valley.

98 NW DESTINATION Victoria, B.C.

CONTRIBUTORS

JEAN CHEN SMITH Writer The BIG Holiday Gift Guide

CHRISTOPHER DIBBLE Photographer Home + Design

YOKO BAUM Illustrator Beerlandia

DANIEL STARK Photographer Farm to Table

“There are so many amazing businesses in our state, it was hard to narrow it down. Our gift guide has a little something for everyone: wine, chocolates, apparel—you name it. There are also some spectacular restaurants and experiences to gift your loved ones this holiday season. I’m wishing everyone a joyous time full of merriment and good cheer!” (pg. 57)

“I find such joy in capturing the essence of architectural spaces, and the Gorge Tudor home

by Arciform was particularly inspiring. I am drawn to interior and architectural photography not only for its aesthetic appeal but also for the unique stories behind each home and the families that inhabit them.

This residence had both by showcasing thoughtful design that truly reflected the lives of its inhabitants.” (pg. 34)

“Living in Oregon, I’m grateful to be surrounded by lush landscapes and vibrant culture that inspire my illustrations every day. With a love for food, drink and outdoor adventures, I enjoy blending seasonal flavors and the beauty of the Pacific Northwest in my work. Creating these festive beer and food pairings was a true joy, and I hope they bring warmth to every reader!” (pg. 22)

“As I arrived at Crown C Farms in the quaint town of Terrebonne, I was greeted by the friendly owner, Jim, who welcomed me with fresh vegetables, eggs and a bottle of his sunchoke liquor.

At that point, I knew I was in for a memorable shoot. Despite an early frost that slowed the sunchoke blooms, we set off in Jim’s pickup to check the crop. Photographing Jim was a joy—his passion for farming and crafting his liquor was clear. Jim’s more than just a farmer—he’s an artist, pouring his expertise into every bottle.” (pg. 26)

Jean Chen Smith is a freelance writer and editor based in Corvallis. Her work has appeared in USA Today, Travel + Leisure, Forbes Advisor, The Oregonian and more. When not sharing her love of travel with readers, she’s teaching Pilates at her studio and obsessing over her teacup shih tzus, Tonka and Paisley.

Christopher Dibble is a West Coast-based photographer and has spent his career photographing projects for commercial and editorial clients, designers, artists and architects.

8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Yoko Baum is a freelance illustrator based in Happy Valley, specializing in food, drink and lifestyle artwork for editorial and branding. When not creating vibrant visuals, she enjoys cooking for her sons and exploring the outdoors on summer hikes.

Daniel Stark is an accomplished portrait and editorial photographer based in Bend.

With an unwavering passion for storytelling through imagery, Daniel masterfully captures the essence of his subjects, unveiling their unique narratives with every click of his camera.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

HOMEGROWN CHEF

Thor Erickson

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Christopher Dibble, Tambi Lane, Petar Marshall, Daniel O’Neil, Bill Purcell, Gwen Shoemaker, Daniel Stark

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Yoko Baum

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE

EDITOR

ON JULY 13 this summer, a strong wind blew over the dry shrubland and grass savannas of Wheeler County, breathing a small fire into what would become a 130,000-acre raging wildfire. Though Wheeler measures 1,700 square miles, it has less than 1,500 people through its towns of Spray, Fossil and Mitchell.

Far from anywhere, the people of Wheeler knew self-reliance is the first (and sometimes only) defense against natural disasters. This is also the home of our long-time photographer and social media guru, Joni Kabana. In Gallery on page 72, Joni shares photos and stories of the brave people who came out and came together to save their community from devastation. If you feel so inclined and are able to, please help us support the Spray Volunteer Fire Department with information at the end of that story.

The holiday spirit pervades this issue. In a broad-ranging feature on page 57, find locally made goods that run the gamut from masala chai from Soul Chai to a Portland Gear backpack and wines, olive oils and baked goods. Another gift—by buying local, you support local businesses and people in your community.

10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Another way to celebrate is through experiences. On page 64, you’ll find dozens of our favorite holiday outings around the entire state. A flirty comedy dating show for singles, the Annual Tuba Christmas Concert in Portland with more than 200 tubas, the Holiday Lights Paddle Parade on the Deschutes River in Bend, the Heceta Lighthouse Victorian Christmas Open House on the coast—you can find a moving experience that could become your new tradition.

One of the most holiday-est towns in all of Oregon must be Jacksonville in Southern Oregon. Jacksonville is home to many things including a downtown that is designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. Jacksonville’s holiday parade begins with an antique fire truck and revelers parading past quaint restaurants, local wineries and storied coffeehouses in a well-kept, turn-of-the-century downtown. Learn more about Jacksonville in this issue’s Trip Planner on page 92.

When the last ember is glowing, kick back with a whiskey tonic (pg. 23), a recipe that relies on local, Oregon products.

Happy holidays!

1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by Brenda Jaros Sunrise on the Three Sisters.

GIFT OREGON 1859 Oregon’s Magazine celebrates all things Oregon, from its incredible destinations and colorful personalities to its rich history and local food and drink.

Gift a subscription to family and friends this holiday season, and share the state you love! www.1859oregon magazine.com/gift

SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find jewelry, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregon magazine.com/shop

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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NOTEBOOK 14 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 26 HOME + DESIGN 34

pg. 32 For a hearty, holiday-worthy dish, try our Homegrown Chef’s Brussels Sprout Gratin.

Tambi Lane

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44

THE PEAK PACIFIC NORTHWEST EXPERIENCE Plan Your Getaway!

bellingham.org

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Tidbits + To-dos Seven Bridges Winery

written by Cathy Carroll

Hidden Gem: Seven Bridges Winery

Flavorful Artisan Gifts With a Purpose

Hidden in a warehouse district just north of the Moda Center and near the Willamette River’s elegant bridges, this boutique urban winery champions the Northwest’s best reds. With a focus on Bordeaux-style blends and Columbia Valley single varietals, Seven Bridges Winery is a big red wine lover’s paradise.

Visit during the holiday season when the tasting room is decked out, featuring a 20-foot-tall Christmas tree from owner Bob Switzer’s tree farm.

Please both palate and soul with gifts helping preserve scenic landscapes and supporting those who tend it. Send the flavors of beloved nonperishables from Central Oregon food artisans. Order by November 27 for holiday delivery of High Desert Food & Farm Alliance themed boxes, or build your own with items such as Josie’s Best gluten-free pancake mix, Schilling’s fig jam, DD Ranch honey, Holm Made hazelnut toffee, Savory Spice seasoning and a tea towel.

www.sevenbridgeswinery.com www.pdxurbanwine.com

r you R rk DA a m EN

CA

www.hdffa.org/store

L

Paul McCartney’s Lens: Rare Beatles Photos at Portland Art Museum

Paul McCartney. Self-portraits. Paris, January 1964. Pigmented inkjet print © 1964 Paul McCartney under exclusive license to MPL Archive LLP

Paul McCartney Photographs 1963–64: Eyes of the Storm at Portland Art Museum reveals extraordinary photographs taken by the musical icon. Organized by London’s National Portrait Gallery, the exhibit runs through January 19. The recently rediscovered photos invite visitors to intimately experience The Beatles’ rise. Many lenses focused on them, but McCartney’s perspective brings insight into their experiences and Beatlemania. With video and archival material, witness the British Invasion that transformed rock music and global culture. www.portlandartmuseum.org/event/paul-mccartney-photographs

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Mt. Bachelor

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Mount Bachelor Valet Lounge + Performance Center A new service offers overnight, multiday or seasonal equipment storage, with prime ski-in and out access. Expect an elevated “gear-up” lounge and complimentary refreshments on select days. Rent online in advance from the new slopeside Salomon Performance Center’s high-performance ski fleet for intermediate and advanced skiers to maximize the experience in varying conditions at Mt. Bachelor this winter.

Hood River’s Ferment Brewing Company offers several mocktail options.

Hood River’s Sober-Curious Revolution

ca mark le yo nd ur ar

Gary Allen

www.mtbachelor.com

Scenic, adventure-laden Hood River is elevating its nonalcoholic scene, from Wilderton Botanical Spirits’ waterfront tasting room and Double Mountain Brewery’s house-made sodas to local kombucha and tea. Fruit Loop, renowned for its u-pick farms and cider tastings, is also home to some of the region’s finest artisanal nonalcoholic ciders. Acclaimed local restaurants are creatively embracing the mocktail movement, and Hood River’s Mocktrail celebrates the town’s dedication to quality, health and innovation.

Chehalem Cultural Center’s New LaJoie Theatre

www.visithoodriver.com/play-lists/mocktrail

www.chehalemculturalcenter.org/lajoie-theatre

Chehalem Cultural Center’s newly renovated, 44,000-squarefoot Performing Arts Wing in Newberg includes the 225-seat LaJoie Theatre. It plays a vital role in rural Yamhill County, celebrating diverse voices and cultures. Events include chamber ensemble 45th Parallel Universe performing traditional classics to modern music (November 15), a vaudeville holiday show (December 6 and 7) and a Christmas concert of music from Bach, bluegrass, jazz, folk and more (December 13 and 14).

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 15

notebook Sanjay Kapila

Bory | Who’s A Good Boy

The 24 Best

OREGON ALBUMS OF 2024 written by Ben Salmon

FROM ASTORIA and Portland to Ashland, Bend and beyond, Oregon musicians created incredible sounds in 2024. Here are the twenty-four best albums released by artists across the state this year.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Tristan Paiige

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Maita | Want

Bory Who’s A Good Boy This excellent debut album from Portland singer-songwriter Brendan Ramirez technically came out in December of 2023, but well after we published our list of that year’s best album. We’re bumping it to 2024 because Bory’s perfectly fuzzed-out indie rock deserves to be heard by as many people as possible—especially those with a soft spot for Elliott Smith’s melancholy melodies and the kaleidoscopic psychpop of bands like The Apples In Stereo.

Caleb Klauder & Reeb Willms Gold In Your Pocket “Country music,” says Caleb Klauder and Reeb Willms’ Bandcamp profile, “is soul music.” Anyone who has seen these two perform knows country music is also dance

music. In fact, in the hands of Klauder and Willms, country music can be just about anything: sad, happy, funny, strange, bluegrass-y, Western swing-y, Cajun-y and so on and so on. This isn’t just one of the best Oregon albums of the year—it’s one of the best by anyone, anywhere.

I Am The Intimidator I Am The Intimidator A lot of excellent heavy metal came out of Portland this year. But in terms of pure, heart-pounding, fist-pumping fun, it’s hard to top this six-song concept album about NASCAR legend Dale Earnhardt’s final day on Earth. Written and recorded entirely by Portlander Andrew Stromstad, I Am The Intimidator rocks hard (think Judas Priest) in a half-serious, half-hilarious way while at the same time digging deep into the famous race car driver’s mindset, motivations and martyrdom.

Maita Want For several years now, it has felt like Maria MaitaKeppeler’s namesake indie rock project would be the next big thing to rise out of Portland’s vaunted music scene into national prominence. Her third fulllength, Want, is the one that should do it. Here, Maita-Keppeler deftly navigates highly relatable themes— love, desire, loss, devastation—while her band surrounds her with walls of dusky, dynamic folk, pop and rock.

Fans of Mitski: Here’s your new fave.

Jade MacRae In My Veins Jade MacRae is from Australia, where she scored a handful of popchart hits years ago. Now, however, she is based in Bend, and she has taken

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 17

Southtowne Lanes

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a wide array of both traditional instruments (marimba, vibes) and found objects. Woven together, they make mesmerizing minimalist jazz that’s globally inspired, wildly melodic and occasionally deeply weird.

Southtowne Lanes Take Care

Southtowne Lanes | Take Care

the fresh start as an opportunity to switch up her musical style. On In My Veins, she uses her remarkable singing voice and some spirited instrumental arrangements to explore the intersections of R&B, jazz, funk and soul.

Around every vocal turn, it sounds like MacRae has found what she’s looking for.

and Samuel Eisen-Meyer. Even more impressive is this little nugget Jamal posted to Instagram in June: “All of the songs on this project were made on the spot at the moment. Purely improvised.” Mind. Blown.

Lake Laconic Lake Laconic

Every year, the Portland Jazz Composers Ensemble’s record label releases several albums by local artists that showcase the breadth of quality within the city’s jazz scene. The cream of this year’s crop is Dare To Hope, the debut album from drummer Rivkah Ross, whose lively and likable songs practically leap from the speakers thanks in part to her powerhouse band of piano, sax and bass. No longer just a drummer, Ross has evolved into a composer, bandleader and bright new star of PDX jazz.

If you search the internet just right, you’ll find a 2012 Oregonian article about Cannon Beach then-teenager Lake Jiroudek, who was heading off to study guitar at the prestigious music school Juilliard.

After some time in New York and Los Angeles, he has returned to Astoria where his new album under the name Lake Laconic is a classic, well-crafted combo of folk, pop and rock that sounds like The Band and The Beatles had a weirdly bearded baby.

Rasheed Jamal The Mandala Effect The new album from Portland MC Rasheed Jamal—his first in five years—is a stunning blend of sturdy raps, incisive rhymes and restless soul-jazz courtesy of top-shelf local musicians, including his close collaborators Charlie 3rown

Rivkah Ross Dare To Hope

Skin & Bones Mixmaster On a list packed with artists who use guitars and horns and voices to make music, Skin & Bones stick way, way, waaay out. And that’s why they’re here! This Ashland-based percussion duo—Terry Longshore and Brett Reed—has been playing together for thirty years, using

18 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

The genre term “emo” has been stretched and twisted and dragged through the mud over the years, but when it’s done well, it’s still an incredible force for catharsis and connection. To wit: The new album from Eugene emo band Southtowne Lanes, Take Care, is a powerful sonic gut-punch that uses shredded howls, jagged guitars and pain cranked up to eleven to chronicle the sudden death of frontman Matt Kupka’s father, and the waves of grief and glimmers of hope that followed.

14 MORE

ALBUMS WORTH HEARING Anna Tivel | Living Thing Blind Pilot | In The Shadow Of The Holy Mountain Donte Thomas | An Apple A Day Greaterkind | Change Of Plans Haley Heynderickx | Seed Of A Seed Hannah Glavor | Hold On, Hold Tight Ian George | A Fair Jenny Don’t & The Spurs | Broken Hearted Blue Kid Ferris | Metanoia Lemonship | Starfruit Oregon Fryer | Oregon Fryer Sugarbeats | PNW Tapes Freddy Trujillo | I Never Threw A Shadow At It Unto Others | Never, Neverland

717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.Maloys.com

Snuggle up by the Fire For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.

Portland expanded cinema director Rose Bond (left) and producer Melanie Coombs at the premier of Earths to Come at the Venice Film Festival last summer.

Cinephile

Virtual Meets Victorian Portland immersive, poetic work gains acclaim on global stage interview by Cathy Carroll

THE IMMERSIVE experience Earths to Come, from Portland expanded cinema director Rose Bond and Oscar-winning producer Melanie Coombs, is being hailed as a gorgeous, mesmerizing masterpiece since it premiered at the world-renowned Venice Film Festival last summer.

The synergy of Bond’s animation, an enveloping soundscape by Grammy-winning vocal Roomful of Teeth and the music of lauded composer inti figgis-vizueta, explores the seductive and destructive nature of desire. It’s groundbreaking because unlike most immersive, virtual reality works, it’s not experienced alone.

In Venice, groups of twelve, each wearing a synced headset, were surrounded by sixteen spatialized speakers within a geodesic dome 20 feet in diameter. The title is from an Emily Dickinson eight-line poem that begins, “I have no life but this.”

20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Courtesy of Rose Bond

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How did the project come about?

I was working with Roomful of Teeth and the Oregon Symphony on visualizations for a symphonic piece by Luciano Berio, ‘Sinfonia,’ in March 2020. Two days before we were to open, the governor shut it down. We were all set, and it was glorious. And then that was it. We all went home.

Two years later, Roomful of Teeth contacted me and said, ‘Hey, Rose, we’re working with a young composer named inti figgis-vizueta, and we want you to do the visuals.’

How did you arrive at the idea for Earths to Come?

Inti’s an Indigenous trans woman. I’m like an old-school lesbian, so it was like, ‘How do we come together? What can we do?’ Emily Dickinson became this anchor point.

It got at some themes we were talking about—Covid and our individual experiences. Inti had a partner, and it brought them together. I was single and posting stuff on Instagram about pictures from my walk along the river—the kind of stuff I would never do.

It was how it opens you up— the isolation and separation kind of feeds a desire that counteracts a loneliness.

Emily Dickinson is a gay icon, and I read that poem as her love of Susan, her sister-in-law—married to her brother. In the 1860s, it was an impossible kind of relationship and yet so sustaining. [Earths to Come] is in some way how to find a kind of healing, maybe in the arts or in poetry. … It’s so open-ended.

It’s about that tension, and that’s what I tried to

visualize. … I just try to get at the sentiment and make things that move in a way that captures that feeling.

It’s really like a dance, the way I think of animation.

What’s next for the project?

I would love nothing better than to show it in my city, to have that experience in my city. We’d love to have an event at OMSI (Oregon Museum of Science and Industry). … The beauty of doing it in a dome is that it could really start to take on a life of its own. … This could exist as a live performance with Roomful of Teeth, or as a dome installation in a museum space.

How has Portland influenced your work?

I have a lot of deep friendships with the Portland animation scene, especially the Portland experimental animation scene. Mel (Coombs) is at ShadowMachine and was co-producer for Guillermo del Toro’s Pinocchio and has two Oscars under her belt. I taught at PNCA (Pacific Northwest College of Art) for a number of years. … It’s just a really exciting place to be based right now.

Portland has always been a place for artists and community. Back in the ’80s, when I was making my first films, I didn’t have any equipment. … I just drew on film.

But people would help me. … I’ve always found people welcoming here, especially in the tech and arts communities. There’s a lot of mutual respect in terms of what we all bring to the table to make something cool happen.

LITERAR FIND YOUR

FIND YOUR STORY HERE.

literary-arts.org BOOKS • CLASSES • EVENTS • COMMUNITY

food + drink

Beerlandia

Beer Pairings for the Holidays written by Jeremy Storton | illustrations by Yoko Baum

I MUST ADMIT I’ve gotten bored with the typical holiday feast.

Unless I want to do all the cooking myself, the simplest way to make things interesting is to bring some stellar beer pairings to the table. Here are a few combinations I offer:

COURSE 1

COURSE 4

HORS D’OEUVRES

DESSERT

Let’s start with an aperitif. I love the light body and snappy bitterness of a German pilsner paired with homemade popcorn. Or, I’d enjoy the light citrus and herbal tang of a Belgian witbier with smoked salmon. Both beers serve to stimulate my senses and tease my appetite.

For pumpkin pie lovers, a milk stout can add notes of chocolate and coffee, creating a synergy not easily found in nature. Or, try a classic apple pie with a German doppelbock. This beer adds flavors of graham cracker, pie crust and dark fruits to add wonderful complexity.

My Picks: Breakside Brewery’s Pilsner; Monkless Belgian Ales’ Shepplekofeggan Witbier

My Picks: Buoy Beer Co.’s Decapitator Doppelbock; Sunriver Brewing Co.’s Cocoa Cow Chocolate Milk Stout

COURSE 2

GREENS Now, I want complex sweetness and assertive bitterness. A German-inspired altbier balances the simple yet delightful grilled romaine lettuce with olive oil, salt and pepper. Or, if we grill fall vegetables, a hazelnut brown ale will bring a sweetness missing in the savory veggies.

My Picks: Occidental Brewing Co.’s Altbier; Rogue’s Hazelnut Brown Ale

COURSE 3

MAINS When the main course arrives, a Belgian Flanders sour (red or brown) occupies a space between wine and beer. It turns the obligatory turkey and mashed potatoes into a plate full of Heaven. If you’re not into sours, a Belgian tripel will lighten and cleanse your palate yet match the flavor intensity perfectly.

My Picks: Mazama Brewing’s Belgian Tripel; Deschutes Brewery’s The Dissident

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

COURSE 5

AFTER THE FEAST Now, for the most important course of the evening: a barley wine or a bourbon barrel-aged stout in a snifter paired with the conviviality of reminiscing, telling stories and bonding with friends and family. We may already be thinking of ways to top this meal next year, but for now, I suggest we relax and savor this experience.

My Picks: Chuckanut Brewery’s Barrel-Aged Barley Wine; pFriem’s Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Faith Dionne, Dappled Tonic / ALBANY

• 1 ounce whiskey • 1 can Aromatic Dappled Tonic Water • Orange, for garnish Pour whiskey over ice in a highball glass. Gently add one can of Aromatic Tonic Water and stir.

Garnish with an orange peel.

Dappled Tonic

Whiskey Tonic

Warm up a winter night with this easy whiskey cocktail. “The Aromatic Tonic is our richly flavored, all-purpose tonic water,” said Faith Dionne, Dappled Tonic’s founder. “It takes cues from the aromatic bitters commonly used in cocktails, making it a perfect pairing for whiskey.

We enjoy it with local whiskey such as Bull Run Distilling Co.’s Pinot Noir Finished American Whiskey or Westward Whiskey Original.”

Whiskey tonic with Dappled Tonic, courtesy of Faith Dionne.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

23

Dappled Tonic

food + drink

CRAVINGS:

FOOD + WINE CELEBRATIONS GOBBLE UP NORTHWEST At this annual event, you’ll find an astounding selection of culinary wonders made in the Northwest from artisan sauces and seed butters to CBD chocolates and chili crunches. Other items perfect for gifts include locally made cutting boards, beautiful ceramics, market totes and aprons. You can also meet local cookbook authors and snack on everything from paella to pizza. The festival pops up in both Portland (November 9) and Seattle (November 16).

PORTLAND + SEATTLE www.gobbleupnorthwest.com

15TH ANNUAL OLIO NUOVO FESTIVAL For the solo tonic drinker, Dappled Tonic comes in aromatic, citrus and floral flavors.

Gastronomy

Dappled Tonic written by Kerry Newberry WHEN FAITH DIONNE was seeking locally made tonic water to mix with her spirits, she was surprised to discover there were no options. The culinary entrepreneur saw an exciting opportunity, especially as she explored collaborating with other craft beverage makers to create a sparkler with Northwest roots.

“We realized it needs to not only be local, but better than what’s out there already,” said Dionne. She founded Dappled Tonic in 2023 and assembled an all-women team of experts in the food and beverage inMORE INSIDE dustry including Caitlin Prueitt of Vivacity Spirits.

Try Dappled Tonic’s Using her background as a pastry chef and distiller Whiskey Tonic (she’s also the founder of JAZ Spirits), she set out to crerecipe on pg. 23 ate a flight of bold and lively tonics, that also evoke a sense of place. “What makes the Pacific Northwest culture of food and drink stand out is the amplification of flavors,” she said. “Whether it’s our coffee, beer, hot sauce or chocolates.”

She launched with three distinct flavors, all dancing the line between bitter and sweet. For the essence of bright yuzu and lime, the citrus pairs perfectly with a range of spirits—but it’s also an easy nonalcoholic aperitif. The floral pops with rose, lavender and lemon aromas, and it’s an ideal match for gin or sparkling wine. The aromatic brings warm baking spices and herbal notes, ideal for the holiday season. You can find the tonic waters at Market of Choice and other stockists listed online at www.dappledtonic.com.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

When the Durant family founded their olioteca in 2008, they adopted the Italian tradition of hosting an Olio Nuovo Festival to celebrate the season’s freshly pressed olive oil. During this monthlong festival, Durant Olive Mill hosts olive oil tastings, olive mill tours and culinary pop-ups. Signature events include an elevated sevencourse, olive oil-centric Italian supper with wine pairings and a seated communal wine and olive oil tasting with fresh bruschetta.

5510 NE BREYMAN ORCHARDS ROAD DAYTON www.durantoregon.com

NOUVEAU FÊTE AT DIVISION WINEMAKING CO. In wine regions around the world, the third Thursday in November marks the end of harvest and the release of the first vintage of wine. On November 21, you can ring in the new vintage at Division Winemaking Company’s convivial urban winery with their winemaker friends including The Marigny, GC Wines and Portland Wine Co. Adding to the festive vibes will be DJ Johnny B and snacky bites like oysters from Flying Fish and specialty cheese by La Femme Fromage.

2005 SE 8TH AVE. PORTLAND www.divisionwineco.com

BEST PLACES FOR

CULINARY GIFTS WREN TAIL BOARDS

Abbey Road Farm

food + drink

THE MEADOW For a joy snack, there’s nothing like wiling away an afternoon at The Meadow (Portland now has three locations). It’s also the perfect onestop shop to assemble a gift box of Pacific Northwest flavors for your favorite epicurean. Or opt for its ultimate Oregon Foodie gift box, which is packed with a thoughtful selection of the state’s most beloved culinary products ranging from small-batch salt and chocolates to creative cocktail bitters and confections.

3731 N. MISSISSIPPI AVE. PORTLAND www.themeadow.com

THE WORKHOUSE Head to this art studio and retail gallery to discover one-of-a-kind gifts made by local artisans—there are more than seventy regional makers featured. In addition to quirky tea towels and colorful clay tumblers, you’ll find letterpress recipe cards, soy candles and art prints. Local culinary products range from Broadus Bees Honey and Black Sheep Chocolate to teas from Sakari Botanicals.

50 SE SCOTT ST., #6 BEND www.theworkhousebend.com

Furioso Vineyards

DAMASCUS www.wrentailboards.com

Michelle McSwain/Soter Vineyards

Local woodcrafter and cheese monger Peter Nosler’s functional art will delight friends and family who love to entertain. Each hand-carved board is cut from local hardwoods including walnut, oak and maple. The statement pieces come in various sizes with cool features (live edge, key-hole handles, knotty character).

A beautiful blend of rusticity and refinement, these work as cheese boards, cutting boards and platters. Find them at Portland’s Notary Ceramics, Wild Petals Bend, Soter Vineyards and online.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Chef Will Preisch at Abbey Road Farm in Carlton. Try the Provisions Tasting at Soter Vineyards in Carlton. The tasting room at Furioso Vineyards in Dundee.

Dining

Road Trip-Worthy Winery Lunches written by Kerry Newberry IN OUR fast-paced world, there are too few slow-down moments. But one easy way to embrace the art of slow living is with a leisurely lunch in a beautiful place.

Enter the Willamette Valley, one of the most renowned wine regions in the world.

Here are just a few of the region’s wineries where lunch feels like a mini-vacation.

At Soter Vineyards (10880 NE Mineral Springs Road, Carlton; www.soter vineyards.com), most of the herbs and vegetables on the menu come from the surrounding 240-acre biodynamic farm and vineyard—also home to a herd of pictorial Scottish Highland cattle along with chickens, goats and heritage breed pigs. Book the Provisions Tasting, and you’ll feast on family-style dishes like squash bisque, poached leeks sprinkled with hazelnuts and mushroom arancini.

For Italian-inspired bites and moody vineyard views, head to Furioso Vineyards (8415 NE Worden Hill Road, Dundee; www.furiosovineyards.com), named “one of the twenty-five most beautiful wineries of the world” by Rizzoli New York. Its kitchen is open Thursday through Sunday and turns out comfort fare like savory polpette (meatballs), curry-spiced cauliflower and classic wood-fired pizzas.

Every Saturday and Sunday, Abbey Road Farm (10501 NE Abbey Road, Carlton; www.abbeyroadfarm.com) opens its charming winery bistro. Set in a cozy wine cellar, this is where chef Will Preisch adds flair to small bites like mussel escabeche toast and pork schnitzel flecked with fennel and coriander. (Definitely say hello to the farm’s personality-packed farm animals before you leave).

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 25

farm to table

Resembling the ginger root, sunchokes are winter tuber vegetables high in fiber.

Farm to Table

Meet the Sunchoke This tuber vegetable grows like a sunflower, looks like ginger root and tastes like potato—and is having its day in the sun written by Julie Lee photography by Daniel Stark “THE FIRST THING you see on the internet when you look up ‘sunchoke’ is how do you kill it,” Jim Crocker of Crown C Farms said with a laugh. “It’s a very aggressive farm crop, and I work hard to make it do what I need it to do. It’s not a crop for the weak.”

That all said, Crocker has “always been fascinated by sunchokes.”

Crown C Farms in Terrebonne is one of the nation’s largest growers of sunchokes, a hearty winter tuber vegetable that resembles ginger root in appearance, has an earthy, nutty flavor like a water chestnut or potato and has a sweet aftertaste, like an artichoke. Raw, steamed, boiled, roasted, dried or pickled, sunchokes can easily be added to many recipes, sweet or savory.

More commonly known as Jerusalem artichokes and from the sunflower family, sunchokes are native to North America and nutrition-packed—they are rich in multiple vitamins and minerals and are a great source of a fiber called inulin, a prebiotic that supports gut health, making sunchokes a great option for people wanting to regulate blood sugar and add more iron and potassium to their diet. Studies also show the high potassium content in sunchokes can help reduce blood pressure and balance cholesterol.

Crocker likes the High Desert in Deschutes County for growing sunchokes. “Central Oregon’s weather is very unpredictable,” he said, “so we were looking for a way to do vegetable produce and farm the shoulder seasons. We also do asparagus because it is an early-season produce.” Sunchokes, according to Crocker, can survive both heat 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

farm to table

“The first thing you see on the internet when you look up ‘sunchoke’ is how do you kill it. It’s a very aggressive farm crop, and I work hard to make it do what I need it to do. It’s not a crop for the weak.”

— Jim Crocker, Crown C Farms owner

Crown C Farms owner Jim Crocker walks through rows of sunchokes at his farm in Terrebonne in September.

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farm to table

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Jim Crocker at Crown C Farms.

Jim Crocker and his dog, Deacon, sit with a bottle of Iler Crossing topinambur liquor, which is distilled from sunchokes.

and drought conditions and adapt well to the climate in Deschutes County. “Once upon a time, Central Oregon was one of the highest growing potato regions,” Crocker said. “Now sunchokes can grow in the same ground. With some existing equipment for potatoes, I can harvest sunchokes. We’ve been fortunate that my property works well for growing sunchokes. It suits itself well for where we live. It’s stingy on water, which is super important.”

Crown C Farms needed a “value add” to their portfolio, since there is a limited market for fresh sunchokes in Central Oregon, according to Crocker. As a result, they started producing Iler Crossing, a 90-proof topinambur liquor, distilled from sunchokes, that can be used as one would use a vodka or tequila.

Clear and smooth, there is a bit of an earthy-smelling, smoky aftertaste as well, like a mezcal—it makes for a great margarita or Bloody Mary. According to Crocker, “for a farmer, the liquor business is vastly different.” Crocker is proud of how the liquor has turned out—“We think we can compete with any tequila on the market!” he said.

Consumers can ask for the liquor by referencing their OLCC restocking number, which is 5040B. It’s distributed by Tru Distribution in Texas and can soon be found in Washington as well as in Oregon. Iler Crossing is named after Crocker’s mother’s family, who homesteaded in Central Oregon.

Robbie Wilson—who bartends at Portland’s Fallow’s Rest Wild, which places a focus on regenerative farming and wild and sustainably caught proteins, and has his own bottled cocktail line out of Trail Distilling’s tasting room in Oregon City—pushes the limits of what’s possible with fermentation, infusions and local ingredients, including honeys, fruits and vegetables, like sunchokes.

He’s currently working on fermenting sunchokes using koji, a mold cultivated in Japan to convert carbs into sugar, creating a

simple syrup to use in cocktails. Try Wilson’s Bend Me Your Ear cocktail using Iler Crossing topinambur on the following page.

Acclaimed chef Heidi Whitney-Schile of Ambar Estate, Willamette Valley’s first Regenerative Organic Certified vineyard, whipped up a mouth-watering sunchoke pasta with first-of-season sunchokes. “Sunchokes have a vibrant, nutty flavor that I can’t get enough of,” said Whitney-Schile. “As naturally starch-free root vegetables, they’re perfect for purées and sauces, adding a smooth, creamy texture. Their wonderful nuttiness and earthy aroma make them a fantastic addition to comforting fall and winter dishes. For this sunchoke pasta recipe, I like to use fettuccine noodles, served alongside halibut or any white fish of your choice.”

Jim Crocker unearths sunchokes at his farm in Central Oregon.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 29

Bend Me Your Ear cocktail.

Bend Me Your Ear

Robbie Wilson, food and beverage professional / PORTLAND SERVES 1 • 11/2 ounces Iler Crossing topinambur sunchoke liquor • 3/4 ounce lemon • 1/2 ounce honey syrup, 2:1 • 1/4 ounce Ransom sweet vermouth • Lemon, for garnish Sunchoke Pasta.

Oregon Recipes

Savory, Seasonal Sunchokes Sunchoke Pasta

Chef Heidi Whitney-Schile / NEWBERG SERVES 4 • 2 tablespoons butter • 1 pound sunchokes, peeled and sliced • 1 cup yellow onion, diced • 6 cloves garlic, minced • 2 teaspoons salt • 1 tablespoon Iler Crossing topinambur sunchoke liquor • 1 cup chicken stock • 1 pinch cayenne pepper (optional) • 1/4 cup heavy cream • Zest from 1/2 lemon • 1 package fettuccine • 1/4 cup dill, chopped Preheat a pan over medium heat and add butter. Once the butter is melted,

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add the sunchokes, onion, garlic and a pinch of salt. Sauté for about 10 minutes, or until the onions and garlic are soft and translucent. While the sunchoke mixture cooks, bring a pot of water to a boil for the pasta.

When the sunchoke mixture is done, remove the pan from heat, and transfer everything to a blender. Add Iler Crossing topinambur sunchoke liquor, chicken stock and cayenne pepper (optional).

Purée until smooth.

Return the purée to the pan over low heat. Whisk in the heavy cream and zest from half a lemon, allowing the sauce to warm through and fully combine.

Once the pasta water is boiling, generously salt it, and then add the fettuccine. Cook until al dente, and drain.

Toss the pasta with the sunchoke sauce, stirring until well coated.

Garnish with fresh dill, and serve.

For a savory snack, try our Homegrown Chef’s recipe for Roasted Sunchoke Hummus, available online at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/sunchokehummus

30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Put all ingredients into a cocktail shaker, and shake with ice. Double strain into a coupe, and garnish with a lemon twist.

Favorite Sunchoke Recipes by the Crockers

Jim and Laura Crocker / TERREBONNE Jim Crocker and his wife, Laura, have several easy recipe ideas for sunchokes. Here are some favorites: SUNCHOKE CHIPS Thinly slice sunchokes, and allow them to dry under paper towels. Air fry or oil fry, and season to taste.

SUNCHOKE CAKES Think “traditional German pancake without the flour,” said Jim Crocker. Grate sunchoke, combine with egg and fry. He recommends serving these with beef or a hearty dish.

SUNCHOKE GNOCCHI The Crockers like to replace potatoes with sunchokes in a standard gnocchi recipe. They recommend either boiling or roasting the sunchoke to get it soft; however, roasting makes a drier sunchoke, which makes lighter gnocchi.

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farm to table

Homegrown Chef

Je T’aime Brussels written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane “DON’T GET LOST this time!” my dad shouted to my sister Heidi and me as he backed our van into the loading dock at the bustling wholesale produce market.

The towering stacks of fragrant fruits and vegetables were perfect for hide and seek.

“Bonjour!” bellowed a deep voice as we opened the door of the van.

“What is you are looking for today?” said Louis with a thick French accent.

“Whatever is on special,” Dad said.

Louis was one of the many vegetable vendors that dad bought from at the market and had relocated from Paris twenty years earlier.

“Your lucky day!” Louis said joyfully. “Brussels sprouts are very special, and I will give a better deal if you buy six cases.”

Dad was not one to pass up a good deal. “I’ll take six then,” Dad said, smiling.

Heidi and I played a quick game of hide and seek among the stacks in the warehouse.

Suddenly we heard Louis’ loud voice singing, “Ooh, ooh, it’s time to goo ooh.”

Having not gotten lost, Louis presented us each with a ripe mango. Upon our return to the van, we found we had to sit on cases of Brussels sprouts on our ride back to the restaurant.

“Dad, what are you going to make with all these Brussels sprouts?” Heidi asked.

“Many things. I can make soup, bake them, stuff them, fry them, pickle them—it’s endless,” he said.

We enjoyed our mangoes, while Dad continued to wax on about how he would prepare the daily produce haul.

Later, we helped him unload and clean a couple cases. I noticed Heidi was putting some of the sprouts in her pocket.

“What are you doing with them?” I asked her.

“SHHH,” she whispered loudly.

A few days later I noticed my sister’s Barbies were arranged differently. Barbie was holding a Brussels sprout with both hands, gesturing to Ken. “Barbie and Ken are having salad for dinner,” Heidi exclaimed proudly.

A true testament to the versatility of Brussels sprouts.

This Brussels sprout gratin is a simple and delicious side dish for a holiday gathering, or a weeknight indulgence.

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Brussels Sprout Gratin SERVES 6 • 8 ounces bacon, cut into ½-inch lardons • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2½ pounds Brussels sprouts, cleaned and split in half • 1 large shallot, thinly sliced • 2 cups heavy cream • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper • 6 ounces Rogue blue cheese Heat bacon and butter over medium-high heat in a large, straight-sided sauté pan. Sauté until deep golden-brown and starting to crisp. Add Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring, until lightly browned. Add sliced shallots and cook, stirring, until softened. Add heavy cream, and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.

Adjust heat to a low simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, until cream has reduced by about half and has a consistency that coats each sprout. Add fresh lemon juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer mixture to a casserole pan and cover with the blue cheese.

Adjust oven rack to center position, and preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Transfer casserole to oven and bake uncovered until bubbly around the edges and cheese is melted and spotted brown, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

farm to table

Brussels Sprout Gratin is elevated with the addition of bacon and lemon juice.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

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home + design

Home + Design

A Tailor-Made Tudor An interior designer walks us through a holistic house remodel for a special Tudor in the Gorge written by Melissa Dalton photography by Christopher Dibble

The Tudor-style home in Corbett was built in 1932 with hand-hewn wood posts and local basalt. Today the warm browns with black accents help retain the original feel.

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home + design

ANNE DE WOLF fell in love with Portland’s historic houses as soon as she moved to the city in 1993. Soon after, her husband, Richard, founded their design/build practice Arciform, which specializes in restoring and renovating old structures, from churches and schools to homes, and she joined the firm a year later as owner and principal designer.

“Richard and I started out because we just loved the old architecture of Portland and did all kinds of research,” said De Wolf. “The old Fine Homebuilding magazines were our go-to. We watched This Old House regularly.”

These days, their firm’s work spans commercial and residential projects, new and old builds—including their own 1904 Colonial. While De Wolf ’s approach to design is omnivorous—“Work is like a favorite hobby to me. I’m designing all the time,” states her professional bio—fixing up historic structures will always be a favorite focus.

Such is why for the past decade, De Wolf has regularly conducted a popular talk at the Architectural Heritage Center, a Portland-based organization dedicated to saving the city’s historic places, of which De Wolf has long been an active supporter. Her workshop teaches participants about developing a whole house remodel plan, in order to take a holistic approach to what can too easily become a stressful and piecemeal process.

It was at just one of these talks that De Wolf met the new owners of an incredible Tudor house in Corbett, built in 1932 for photographer Edward Dimmit, with hand-hewn wood posts and beams, beautiful proportions and a soaring fireplace made of local basalt rock in the living room. Of course, other rooms weren’t as grand as that main space, so De Wolf worked with the owners on a strategic remodel plan. Here’s how she applied her holistic whole house philosophy to this home.

Brainstorm Big, Then Dial Back De Wolf was struck by how the Tudor’s original architecture blended a bit of a log cabin/lodge aesthetic with 1930sera sophistication, and every owner had taken care to preserve many of the original details. “You could tell that there was a history of stewardship and artistry,” said De Wolf.

The first part of her design process involves digging into the clients’ needs, values and vision for their home, and in doing so, De Wolf brainstormed with them various iterations of a potential plan, including a possible addition and creating a separate workshop. “We wanted to make sure that they get all the use out of the home that they needed,” said De Wolf.

The group settled on a multiphase plan that first addressed the top-level primary suite, then tackled the daylight basement, to convert it into a guest suite and entertainment zone. “We went from rather big to relatively controlled,” said De Wolf. “And that was a great exercise because now they really appreciate the new spaces without actually having to add.”

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home + design

A later phase will include a kitchen, bathroom and bedroom makeover on the main floor. Starting with a whole house plan that’s tackled in stages like this can allow for time to save up the budget between projects, and knowing what will happen in the future prevents work from having to be redone later on.

Top Down First When doing a phased project, Arciform recommends remodeling from the top down, as construction flow requires workers to move through the lower levels to get upstairs, and plumbing and HVAC chases will run up from the basement. “Invest in the infrastructure first and the pretty later,” said De Wolf, whose team prefers to address things like the HVAC, plumbing and electrical systems at the very beginning. “We fix everything before we cover it back up.”

For the Tudor, De Wolf started on the second floor, reorganizing the layout of the primary bathroom and its connection to the bedroom, then added storage throughout, such as a linen closet and custom closet shelving that fits the owners’ suitcases, since they travel a lot for work. A convenient laundry area in the main closet is an added bonus for organizing the packing process for trips.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Light is the grand counterbalance to darker interiors.

The laundry nook creates space for baskets and folding with the wooden counter space. The linen closet is an extension of the designer’s top-down master plan.

36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

A handsome main bathroom flawlessly carries the theme of brown and black and copious light throughout.

FROM TOP The home’s consistency can be found all the way down to the basement, where the same woods and colors tie in with the greater design.

The master bath has a timeless look with reeded glass and chrome features.

Be Consistent If remodeling in a piecemeal fashion, it can be tempting to play with different trends, which can lead to a look that changes from room to room, or floor to floor. De Wolf prefers to stay consistent throughout the house, which is easier to accomplish with a whole house plan.

To that end, finishes in the primary suite include walnut, stained fir, reeded glass, chrome, beautiful tile and lights, all of which nod to the home’s 1930s era, while the basement zone continues those themes. Downstairs, a custom walnut bar and wall paneling meld with the original railroad tie treads on the stairs, while exposed shelves with black metal straps echo the black accents upstairs.

“Now there’s a cohesiveness of the design throughout the house. We want to respect that and not start something new down in the basement,” said De Wolf. “I always tell people: Never fight the house. If you don’t respect what is there and tie it in with what you’re adding, it’s going to have a shorter life span.”

“I always tell people: Never fight the house.”

— Anne De Wolf, Arciform owner and principal designer 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

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home + design

Plumbing Pipe Closet Shelving System TOO MANY standard-issue closets are a gaping maw of chaos, and as we saw in the custom closet of Arciform’s Tudor project, an organized closet can feel like the ultimate luxury. Here’s a DIY approach to achieve the same result, using our favorite hardware store materials: metal plumber’s pipe and wood boards.

A NOTE ABOUT THE DESIGN This project is for a unit with three lower shelves and an upper hanging rail, but this plan could be modified to your preference, depending on your available space and storage needs. Add more shelves, double the hanging space— have fun with it.

Just remember that plumbing pipe comes in set lengths of 6 inches, 12 inches, 18 inches and 24 inches.

However, the clothes hanging rail will need 42 inches of clearance below it to accommodate most shirts, so ask a plumbing supply store to cut and thread a custom length for those pipes.

The rail will also need to be 12 inches from the wall for hangers to clear. This hanging rail will be about 78 inches high, which may be too tall for some to reach.

Adjust as needed.

PREP THE SHELVES This shelving unit measures approximately 36 inches wide and 78 inches tall, with wood shelves 10.5 inches deep. Cut one 10foot 1x12 board into three lengths of 36 inches each.

Stain or paint the boards as preferred.

ASSEMBLE AND CLEAN THE PIPES You will need four flanges for attaching the closet system to the wall and floor, as well as two flanges per shelf. Tee junctions have three openings, and two tee junctions will be needed for each shelf, for a total of six. Two side outlet elbows

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

will be used to connect the clothes hanging rail at the top, and attach the vertical supports to the wall. For pipes, assemble fourteen 12-inch-long pipes, two 42-inch-long pipes for the vertical supports and one 36-inch-long pipe to be the clothing rail.

Double-check all the pipes and connection pieces are the same diameter, and then wash the metal components to remove the grease.

BUILD VERTICAL SUPPORTS Starting with the base, twist a 12-inch pipe into a flange, and top the pipe with a tee junction. Add two more sections of 12-inch pipe and tee junctions—each tee junction is where a shelf will be located. After the third tee junction, add the 42-inch pipe and top with a side outlet elbow. Repeat these steps to build the second support.

ADD HORIZONTAL BARS Connect the vertical supports at the top by screwing the 36-inch-long pipe into the side outlet elbow on either end. Add 12-inch pipes at the top, and at each shelf, finishing the ends with flanges.

ATTACH UNIT AND GET ORGANIZED Find studs, or use drywall anchors, to attach the flanges to the wall. The bottom two flanges will screw into the floor. Make sure everything is level as you go, then add the shelf boards and enjoy the magic of an organized closet.

Illustration: Allison Bye

DIY

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home + design

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Entertainment Room Decor

The Portland-based rug shop Kat + Maouche sources one-of-a-kind, vintage Berber rugs directly from Moroccan locals. The store is known and revered for its colorful stock, but it also has a few neutral designs that are equally dreamy. www.katandmaouche.com

Since soft lighting is a must in a media room, check out the creations from HiiH Lights, an Astoria studio run by paper maker Lâm Quảng and Kestrel Gates. They specialize in custom, handmade paper lights that come in all sorts of unique shapes and sizes, and that cast just the right glow. www.hiihlights.com

The Chesterfield sofa has been around since the mid-1700s, when Lord Philip Stanhope, the fourth Earl of Chesterfield, asked for a piece of furniture with a low seat and high back that wouldn’t crease his friends’ suits. The Beaconsfield Sofa from Gus* Modern is a charming, modern take on that classic, still with the high back and enveloping frame, but with a little less fuss than the original.

We love how this moody mirror begs the question: Is it decor or functional art? Either way, with its treated glass, it’s perfect for an entertainment room that needs to veer dark. Find it at EWF Modern, a Portland outpost for organic modern furniture since 2002.

www.gusmodern.com

www.ewfmodern.com

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artist in residence

Scenes from Serendipity Dave Wachs blends painting with backcountry skiing to convey the mountains’ magic written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil

Wind in the Bridgers by Dave Wachs.

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Dave Wachs

LOOKING AT his work, Dave Wachs seems foremost a painter. He employs classic techniques in a time-refined idiosyncratic manner. Whether they’re 8-by-10 inches or 4-by-8 feet, his canvases invoke the depth and expanse of the alpine, the crystalline chill of the air and the privileged awe of the high-altitude backcountry. As a result, collectors across the country own his paintings, and galleries feature his work. But for Wachs, the method for acquiring such images remains more important than making them.

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artist in residence

Since he joined the Mazamas mountaineering organization at age 14, Wachs has summited peaks and put in first tracks with abandon. He camped atop Mount Saint Helens before it blew, and, as always, skied down. He has climbed and skied from the pinnacle of Mount Hood too many times to count. He still crisscrosses the Northwest, and beyond, each winter in search of good snow, and his son, Lucas, is a professional skier. Lately, Wachs has hiked and skied around the Wallowas, which has informed his most recent work, all created in a studio in Joseph.

An inveterate mountaineer skier, powder and adventure are his temptations. Wachs is also experiencing his surroundings as an artist, with a sketchbook and camera. “The payoff is that I get to ski down, but along the way, I got to see this really cool set of stripes, the way the snow is filling in the cracks in the stone, and how that creates all these diagonal shapes, the dark stone with the white snow,” he said. “There’s this divine beauty to the repetition, or the suggestion of a formal pattern, in nature. That’s where the chaos of nature is. You can’t measure it and say it’s imperfect, because it never would be, but the suggestion is what is to me so visually fulfilling.”

Wachs grew up in Beaverton, attended art school at Montana State University, and returned to Oregon, to Portland and Bend, where he made a successful career in graphic design.

A longtime friend of his, Steve Kleier, has climbed and skied alongside Wachs since the late 1970s. Kleier teaches painting at the Oregon Society of Artists where he’s also the chairman of the board of directors, so he understands Wachs’ work on multiple levels.

“The composition of his paintings is very strongly influenced by the graphic quality of the patterns of sky, rock, trees and snow,” Kleier said. “Dave’s affected by the visuals and the whole experience of being in the alpine environment, and he captures that in a very direct way. Whether you’re looking for something

“There’s this divine beauty to the repetition, or the suggestion of a formal pattern, in nature. That’s where the chaos of nature is. You can’t measure it and say it’s imperfect, because it never would be, but the suggestion is what is to me so visually fulfilling.”

FROM TOP Dave Wachs, in the studio, in Joseph. Winter travels to mountains across the West inform Wachs’ landscapes.

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— Dave Wachs

artist in residence

Finding inspiration at the source, Dave Wachs sketches the Wallowa Mountains.

Dave Wachs

Such unassuming immersion in nature to remind you of the sports you like to do, or leaves an impression on Wachs and also on you’re an art connoisseur looking for dynamthose who view his acrylic-on-canvas paintic paintings, I think Dave’s work can fulfill both of those because they’re not just a story ings. Julie Berry, a friend from art school in about his skiing. It’s an artistic interpretation Montana who now deals in art, understands of that environment.” the effectiveness of Wach’s approach. “In traWachs admits that to find the scenes he ditional art training, if you’re a portrait artchooses to paint he must get outside of the ist you study human anatomy to understand studio. Painting from another person’s phothe skeleton underneath a person’s face and the muscles on top,” Berry said. “That’s how tograph, another person’s experience, would Dave does his mountainscapes. He knows make no sense to him. The scenes he finds these places so well, knows what they look present themselves incidentally, like serenlike in spring, summer, fall and winter. I can dipity, and Wachs dutifully records them aessense the weight of the mountainside that thetically and emotionally. he’s painting, and I can feel the crisp air on “I’m not chasing anything, but I am pursuIcicle Sun by Dave Wachs. my face.” ing this vision of patterns in nature,” Wachs Having ventured into the powerful environments that shape said. “I really want to get people to see the beauty that I see in nature, which is revealed to me in these harmonious patterns his work, Wachs feels compelled to express the energy and space amongst the chaos of nature. And for me to be able to find those he encounters there. “I want to communicate the places that I’ve on my own, those are truer to me than when you might go out seen,” he said. “When people say, ‘I saw the sky, and it looked on an expedition specifically hoping to find that. The most in- like your painting,’ I think, good, that means I got my message spired, the most truthful work is when you make those discov- across,” Wachs said. “My paintings don’t really look like the sky.

They look like what the sky feels like.” eries intentionally, but innocently.”

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MY WORKSPACE 50

pg. 50 Inside the shop of an old-school shoe repair in Baker City.

Petar Marshall

GAME CHANGER 54

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my workspace Wooden shoe stretchers hang on a peg board inside Julie Derrick’s Baker City shoe repair shop.

Growing up in rural Idaho, Julie Derrick was used to repairing what was broken. Clothes were made by hand, mended when torn and remade into other clothes until the fabric was too thin to use, and then those scraps became rag rugs and quilt tops. As a young girl, Derrick was exposed to many modes of fixing, including a favorite memory of watching her farrier grandpa taking things apart to make them into new things.

If It’s Broke, Fix It Growing up in rural pragmatism, Julie Derrick learned to reuse and repair life’s staples, and now shoes written by Joni Kabana photography by Petar Marshall 50

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It is no wonder Derrick, after working in several “heady” jobs, found her way back to her roots—she now owns and operates JD’s Shoe Repair, an old-timey shop that recently moved from Portland to Baker City.

Julie Derrick, owner of JD’s Shoe Repair, stands in her Baker City shop.

my workspace

Hammers, end nippers, knives and awls are found in abundance at this shoe repair shop, and upon entering, one feels like they have just stepped back in time. People bring equipment found in basements and garages to Derrick, and a sales rep at Oregon Leather Company, where she buys most of her supplies, keeps an eye out for such specialized equipment.

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my workspace

In 2005, Derrick and her son were in a car accident, and she spent her recovery time evaluating her life choices. Repairing things was a lifelong passion, so she decided to take a job in a shoe repair shop (after showing the owner her crocheting skills indicating she was good with her hands and tools) to see if her vision of this career move had any merit. On day one, she knew this was her calling. “Shoes hold all the stories of our lives and carry us every step through every day,” she said. “To revive them is part of my contribution to the community.” Derrick readily admits that shoe repair pays very little. But her career has brought riches in relationships beyond pay in a tradeoff that she is always willing to make while “living creatively on the fringe.”

Now living in Baker City, she is excited to meet the people who work on saddles, horse tack and other items needed in a ranching area. She still makes the trek to Portland to pick up and deliver shoes, ever riding the wave of her childhood learned value: Don’t throw away what can be fixed. See more at www.jdshoerepair.com, or, better yet, stop in at JD’s Shoe Repair located at 2306 Broadway St. in Baker City.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Julie Derrick places a boot on a repair stand. The exterior of JD’s Shoe Repair at 2306 Broadway St. in Baker City. Derrick repairs the stitching on a pair of cowboy boots in her workspace.

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game changer

Passport to a Better Life Relay Resources helps disabled workers get launched—and keeps bias grounded written by James Sinks UNVEILED THIS SUMMER, the remodeled and reimagined passenger terminal lobby at Portland International Airport is an architectural showpiece, from the living treescape at ground level to the latticed, 9-acre wooden ceiling that soars overhead.

In all, the cavernous project covers some 600,000 square feet of floor space and is changing the flying experience for everybody who steps into it and onto it—including upon new patches 54

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of the airport’s renowned old-style 1980s teal carpet, a frequent pre-departure photo backdrop for footwear.

And for several hundred people, most of them with developmental disabilities, the new terminal building also represents a new chapter in something even bigger: a passport to a better life.

With millions of people passing through, all of the new airport space—including carpets, tile, wood floors and bathrooms— need to be cleaned, and often. That happens daily thanks to crews from Portland-based nonprofit Relay Resources, which connects Oregonians with disabilities with skills, meaningful work, incomes starting at $19 an hour and job security.

“Disabled people don’t just belong. They belong everywhere,” said Dr. Jennifer Camota Luebke, the nonprofit’s president and chief executive officer, and the parent of a son with an intellectual disability.

Photo: Juan José Sánchez/Relay Resources

Relay Resources employees have been providing janitorial services at Portland International Airport since 1996.

Founded seventy-three years ago by parents of children with disabilities, back when those students weren’t welcomed in public schools, Relay Resources today lists an annual budget of $60 million and employs a workforce of roughly 800—and of those, more than 500 live with disabilities.

The overarching goal hasn’t changed: creating opportunities for people with disabilities to work, earn incomes and lead productive lives. Yet, the mission is evolving, she said.

Today, Relay Resources also strives to educate society by demystifying and helping companies to be more confident about inclusive approaches to disabilities. And also, to combat and eliminate ableist bias whenever and wherever possible.

“Twenty-seven percent of the population has a disability,” Camota Luebke said. “A lot of companies will discriminate because they somehow think it will cost more or they will not be good employees, but research is showing that to be a myth.”

A social enterprise nonprofit and a government-certified disability-focused contractor, Relay earns revenue as opposed to relying on donors. It puts people to work across five predominant lines of business: janitorial, landscaping, floor care, warehouse work and document imaging.

Those workers are primarily based in the Portland metro area, where other clients include Portland State University and Multnomah County, Camota Luebke said. The footprint is growing, however—the nonprofit has a client in Eastern Oregon, a handful in Southern Oregon and one in Seattle.

In addition to earning good pay and health benefits, workers benefit from job counselors and trainers who are focused on success in—and out—of the workplace. Relay also helps counsel job seekers about other opportunities outside the nonprofit, when and if there are better fits for their skills.

Kendra Bailey, who started with Relay as a janitor, became a workforce training program supervisor and is now an employee

“Twenty-seven percent of the population has a disability.

A lot of companies will discriminate because they somehow think it will cost more or they will not be good employees, but research is showing that to be a myth.”

— Dr. Jennifer Camota Luebke, Relay Resources president and CEO

Photos, from top: Ema Peter/Port of Portland, Relay Resources

game changer

AT LEFT Dr. Jennifer Camota Luebke, Relay Resources president and CEO. ABOVE Portland International Airport’s new main terminal.

success coach, said the nonprofit gives everyone—and especially those who, like Bailey, have a disability—more purpose and confidence in themselves and their futures.

“Even if you don’t see your own potential, they will help you to see it,” Bailey said.

That organizational approach was a life-changer for Bailey, a Black woman with physical, mental and cognitive disabilities.

She was born without a left hand. “The more layers you add, the more marginalized you are, the harder it is to have your experience seen, acknowledged or validated.”

It made a difference to be seen as an entire person, Bailey said.

The Portland International Airport contract is Relay’s biggest, and the nonprofit has been providing janitorial services there since 1996. Currently, 150 Relay employees are cleaning a total of 10 million square feet of space a day.

It is the only contractor cleaning the airport, and the longstanding business relationship is important at many levels, said Nathan Dickie, senior contract administrator with the Port of Portland, which runs the airport.

“This partnership helps to showcase that the Port of Portland is a place where everyone has a place to do their best,” he said. “Relay specializes in providing work to those with visible and invisible disabilities, and we feel that the Port is a great place to showcase their talents. There are many groups working at PDX who help to serve as the front line when welcoming travelers to and from Portland, and I am proud that Relay is a part of that group.”

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Learn more about Relay Resources at www.relayresources.org

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE 20+ of our favorite presents to give in 2024 written by Jean Chen Smith | illustrations by Allison Bye

The holidays are absolutely my favorite time of the year.

Festive decorations along with the hustle and bustle of downtown streets emanate merriment and good cheer.

It is a time to celebrate with family and friends as well as reflect upon the past year. For some of us, the best part of the season is choosing a special gift for each person in our lives. If finding an appropriate present they will love has you stumped, check out our more than twenty favorite gifts to give and receive. What makes them extra special is that they are all Oregon businesses!

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D. Soul Chai makes a delicious masala chai blend of natural ingredients— black tea, organic ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper and cloves. It is the perfect gift for tea drinkers—prestrained and ready in minutes, it also comes in a decaffeinated version. Gift the bundle, which includes both for $44. www.soulchai.com

C. La Oveja Negra, a Latina-owned salsa company based in Portland, offers small-batch, gluten-free, vegan salsa. Made using fresh, local produce, there are four available flavors, starting at $17 per jar. They are delicious paired with tortilla chips, burritos and huevos rancheros. They currently deliver within the Portland area, with plans to expand soon. www.laovejanegrasalsa.com

B. Durant Olive Mill’s Movie Night Gift Box ($56) makes an excellent gift for hostesses, colleagues or neighbors.

Although Durant is well-known for Willamette Valley wines, they also grow and harvest their own olives and bottle and distribute artisan olive oils. This gift bundle includes salt from San Juan Island Sea Salt, Petersen Family Farm’s Calico Popcorn and Durant’s Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil, one of its most popular. www.shop.durantoregon.com

A. Sunday Afternoons manufactures high-quality hats for the entire family.

The company, based in Ashland, was founded in 1992 by Robin and Angeline Lacy. Originally, it sold picnic blankets in fun colors and patterns, and eventually began offering hats. All of its products feature UPF 50 sun protection, using sustainable fabrics. Choose from winter, summer and even rain hats. Gift the Rambler Hat ($66), which is one of my favorites. It is a fedora, made of 100 percent felt and easy to pack for travel. www.sundayafternoons.com

Photos, A-G: Sunday Afternoons, Airen Vandevoort/Durant, Hannah Bernabe/La Oveja Negra, Soul Chai, Urdaneta, Plant Posse, The Dundee Hotel

G. Gift your special someone a stay at The Dundee Hotel, an elegant boutique property within close proximity to a plethora of wineries, shops and restaurants. Nestled right along the main street, it offers spacious rooms and suites, with plush beds and comfortable sitting areas. Sip your way through the five refined, on-site tasting rooms. Make dinner reservations at Wooden Heart Kitchen, which serves brick-oven pizzas, burgers and decadent desserts. Bonus for pet parents: The hotel and staff are very dog-friendly. www.thedundee.com

F. Plant Posse, born out of the creative vision of Brittney West, offers playful jewelry in the shapes of fruits, vegetables, plants and fungi. They are lightweight, made of FSC-certified sustainable wood and hypoallergenic.

Products include dangle earrings, stud earrings, necklaces, stickers, cards and more, with free shipping for purchases more than $35. Its brick-and-mortar retail store recently opened in the heart of downtown Corvallis, so you can stop by and pick up gifts for all plant lovers on your list. www.plantposseart.com

E. Bring your significant other to Urdaneta, a hidden gem in Portland’s NE Alberta neighborhood. This chic restaurant has been in business for eight years and specializes in regional Basque and Spanish tapas with dishes such as grilled octopus, glazed lamb ribs and fresh kingfish crudo. Guests can indulge in its creative cocktails and an extensive wine list. Urdaneta also offers gift certificates, which make excellent stocking stuffers. www.urdanetapdx.com

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K. Present the artist in your life with a special trip to Beyond Van Gogh: The Immersive Experience at the Oregon Convention Center, which returns this holiday season. Combining music and art, the interactive multimedia experience showcases more than 300 of the post-impressionist painter’s greatest works. This year, Paquin Entertainment Group is adding Beyond Monet to its roster, with a captivating, interactive

J. If you are in Corvallis, Revolve Resale is one of my favorite shopping stops.

Located in the heart of downtown, the boutique is stocked with both new and well-loved brand-name items. You will find racks brimming with contemporary and classic women’s apparel and shelves lined with sunglasses, jewelry and other accessories, all at reasonable prices.

Shop owner Erica Widony and her staff are always friendly and eager to help.

Use their fun fashion sense to coordinate an outfit for your mom, sister or best friend. Plus, they also sell gift cards. www.revolveresale.com

I. Located in downtown Bend, Blissful Spoon is a European bakery serving breakfast and lunch. Its house-made granola and other healthy treats can be shipped across the United States. I am a huge fan of its energy bites, which are packed with protein-rich seeds and nuts.

Blissful Spoon also sells gift cards for your local friends. www.blissfulspoon.com

H. Perfect for your office colleague, Hydro Flask, based in Bend, has been making reliable stainless steel water bottles since 2009. It also carries insulated coolers, lunch boxes and camp kitchenware. Hydro Flask’s new 32-ounce Wide Mouth Travel Bottle with Flex Straw Cap ($45) is an excellent road trip travel companion. The leakproof, insulated bottle rests comfortably in most cup holders and keeps your liquids cold for up to twenty-four hours. www.hydroflask.com

Photos, H-N: Hydro Flask, Blissful Spoon, Revolve Resale, Paquin Entertainment Group, Danner, Harry & David, Willamette Valley Wineries Association

N. The Willamette Valley Wineries Association, a nonprofit membership organization, offers wine-themed gifts on its website. The Heavyweight Pullover Hoodie ($59) is a thick fleece sweatshirt that is perfect for winter days and nights.

The unisex top features a print with the slogan “We put the cool in coolclimate.” It offers a fleece-lined hood and kangaroo pockets. It is made-to-order and can take up to two weeks to ship. www.willamettewines.com

M. Located in Medford, Harry & David has an assortment of gift options. Every year, my favorite basket to gift friends and family is its Royal Riviera Pear Christmas Crate ($59), which includes nine Royal Riviera pears packaged in a festive crate that can be reused. For something more extravagant, you can’t go wrong with Deluxe Season’s Best Gift Basket ($149), chock-full of goodies, including Harry & David’s signature Moose Munch popcorn, crackers, cheeses, savory meats, sweets and so much more. www.harryanddavid.com

L. Charles Danner set out making boots for loggers in 1932. Almost a century later, Portland-based Danner is still providing outdoorsmen and women performance gear for work and adventuring. For the serious hiker, give the Mountain 600 Leaf GTX ($220), a sturdy, lace-up boot with an ECO Ortholite footbed for comfort. And not to worry about those Pacific Northwest rainy days—this one is waterproof with a GORE-TEX liner. www.danner.com

exhibition of Monet’s 400 classic works.

The impressive display is the largest of its kind in the U.S., taking more than 10,000 hours to design and construct.

The shows run through January 5, and tickets can be purchased online. www.beyondvangogh.com

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R. Ordering a week or two of freshly prepared whole foods delivered straight to a loved one’s front door makes a practical and convenient gift, not only for parents, but also for Oregon State University students. On any given day, you can find Valerie Jordan, owner of Whole Flower Farms, busy whipping up organic, vegan and gluten-free dishes in her small kitchen, sourcing local produce or making deliveries throughout Corvallis. May through October, Jordan has a weekly stand at the Southtown Stand and Farmer’s Market. You can also find her best-selling Not’Cho Cheeze

Q. Although it is a splurge, STEELPORT Knife Co.’s 6-Inch Chef’s Knife ($350) makes an excellent addition to any home cook’s kitchen. Based out of Portland, it manufactures carbon steel cutlery that lasts for generations.

Each hand-crafted piece features a sturdy wood handle and comes with a lifetime warranty and free sharpening.

For an added touch, add a wooden sheath, which can be personalized with engraving. www.steelportknife.com

P. Little House Bread Co. is a cottage bakery located in Sherwood. It offers sourdough breads, pastries and treats that can be preordered and then picked up at its micro farm. Grab a loaf, choose a jar of Oregon Growers jam from your local market and pack them in a basket to give to your colleague, neighbor or friend. No one can resist the smell and taste of fresh bread. www.linktr.ee/ littlehousebread

O. Portland Gear’s Cascade Backpack comes in two sizes (prices start at $92) and makes an excellent travel companion. It is smartly designed with a weatherproof exterior that can withstand many adventures, and several interior pockets help keep you organized while on the move. The bag comes in ten colors and fits nicely under most airline seats. www.portlandgear.com

Photos, O-U: Portland Gear, Bigstock, STEELPORT Knife Co., Whole Flower Farms, Björnson Vineyard, Euphoria Chocolate Company, Portland Pet Food Company

U. And don’t forget about your fourlegged friends. Portland Pet Food Company was founded in 2014 out of Katie McCarron’s love for her ailing dog, Rosie, which became sick and refused to eat her normal pet food. With the help of a vet specialist, the loving owner began making homemade meals for Rosie. Not only did her pooch feel better, it also launched Katie’s business. Portland Pet Food offers fresh, human-grade dog and cat food, along with a full assortment of dog biscuits. Prices start at $9.99. www. portlandpetfoodcompany.com

T. You can also not go wrong with sweets from Euphoria Chocolate Company, which has three locations in Eugene and is carried at various Market of Choice stores throughout the state. The chocolatier also ships.

Although its Classic Assorted Truffle Box is one of my favorite gifts to give and receive, Euphoria also carries wine truffles, chocolate bars and cookies. www.euphoriachocolate.com

S. Björnson Vineyard produces some of my favorite chardonnay and pinot noirs. Nestled in the Eola-Amity Hills, the family-owned winery recently released its 2023 Gouais Blanc, which was fermented in stainless steel and aged nine months in French oak before bottling. Stop by one of its tasting rooms—either in Salem or downtown McMinnville—for a tasting, or ship a bottle or two to one of your favorite people. You can not go wrong with a flavorful wine from the Willamette Valley. www.bjornsonwine.com

vegan cheese dip and other tasty baked goods at First Alternative Co-ops and Greenhouse Coffee + Plants in Corvallis. www.wholeflowerfarms.com

A holiday family sleigh ride on the edge of the Deschutes National Forest at Sunriver Resort. (photo: Sunriver Resort)

From coastal lights to mountain sleigh rides, make the most of the season with Oregon’s best holiday celebrations and cozy escapes written by Cathy Carroll

O

regonians’ winter holiday celebrations are as diverse as its landscape, with each region offering new and time-honored traditions.

It’s the perfect chance to sample a bit of both. Dive into a speed-dating comedy show, perfect for a season that often calls for a romantic partner. Let horse-drawn sleigh rides carry you over rivers and through snowy woods. Bask in the glow of thousands of colorful lights illuminating botanical gardens perched above the sea. Immerse yourself in the fun of floating parade-goers paddling upstream and city-street caroling competitions that challenge you to utter a “humbug.” It’s all here, with inviting retreats offering getaways that impart true and new tastes of local culture and spirit.

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Oregon’s

Best Holiday Experiences

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Portland Fun & Flirty: A Comedy Dating Show DEC. 12, 7 p.m.

Forget mistletoe. For a love match—and laughs—just in time for the holidays, hook up with Fun & Flirty, the new, homegrown comedy/dating show. Comedian hosts Zahnae Aquino and Jesse Warren explore the essence of dating— Pacific Northwest style. The duo pitches some hot, sexy singles to the audience for live, comedic speed dating. This local brand of humor and romance is perfect for the single, dating, divorced, widowed and married, too. It hits the stage at the Tomorrow Theater at Portland Art Museum’s Center for an Untold Tomorrow. www.tomorrowtheater.org/movies/ pdx-speed-dating-presented-by-funflirty-productions

Pee-wee’s Playhouse Holiday Special Destined to become a celebrated holiday tradition in its second year, the screening of Christmas at Pee-wee’s Playhouse, with cameos from all the late-’80s’ icons, from Cher and Oprah to Portland’s own k.d.

Lang, returns to the Tomorrow Theater at Portland Art Museum’s Center for an Untold Tomorrow. A life-size Conky robot draws pictures by hand/metallic claw for guests young and old—more than 500 last year—all sporting red bow ties. Watch for the date to be posted in November. www.portlandartmuseum.org/pam-cut

Oregon Symphony’s Gospel Christmas DEC. 14, 7:30 p.m.

DEC. 15, 4 p.m.

This twenty-five-year tradition brings together the region’s premier gospel singers and the Oregon Symphony to

and chorale singers as Santa Claus flips

the switch to light up the city’s 75-foot Forget mistletoe.

For a love match—and Douglas fir. laughs—just in time www.thesquarepdx.org/events for the holidays, hook Portland Holiday up with Fun & Flirty. Brew Fest offer the energizing, joyful and uplifting power of gospel music at the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall. www.orsymphony.org/concertstickets/2425/gospel-christmascelebrating-25-years

The Hip Hop Nutcracker NOV. 14, 7:30 p.m.

Hip hop’s not just for the Olympics this year. This remixed, reimagined version of the holiday classic is a contemporary dance spectacle mash-up of hip hop dance and Tchaikovsky’s timeless music.

In The Hip Hop Nutcracker, just like the original, a girl and the Nutcracker Prince go on a dream adventure battling a gang of mice, visiting the land of sweets and learning the lessons of the holiday season.

Digital graffiti and visuals transform the landscape of E.T.A. Hoffmann’s beloved story from nineteenth-century Germany to the vibrant, diverse sights and sounds of today’s New York City. The show is directed and choreographed by Tony and Olivier Award-nominated Jennifer Weber, with Kurtis Blow, one of hip hop’s founding fathers, opening the show with a short set at Keller Auditorium. www.portland5.com/keller-auditorium/ events/hip-hop-nutcracker

Thomas Lauderdale of Pink Martini Live at Portland’s Tree Lighting NOV. 29, 5:30-6:45 p.m.

The day after Thanksgiving, sing along with Portland’s own Thomas Lauderdale from Pink Martini, local musicians

DEC. 6, 5:30-9 p.m.

DEC. 7, 12-9 p.m.

DEC. 8, 12-5 p.m.

Quaff from among more than twentyfive holiday and winter beers and ciders from around the Northwest while staying toasty under heated tents. www.pdxholidaybrewfest.com

The Great Figgy Pudding Caroling Competition DEC. 13, 6-7:30 p.m.

Carolers sing around a ten-block radius of Pioneer Courthouse Square, and the top three groups engage in a “carol-off ” at the square. Crowd applause determines the grand prize winner of $1,000. www.thesquarepdx.org/events

33rd Annual Tuba Christmas Concert DEC. 21, 1:30-3 p.m.

More than 200 tubas play in unison at this longtime, big brass tradition. www.thesquarepdx.org/events

Retreat: The Ritz Carlton Stroll from the Ritz to the Schnitz and to Pioneer Courthouse Square festivities, shops and more shows from a luxurious holiday haven. Take in the city skyline twinkling with lights from a spacious room in the thirty-five-story property.

Savor holiday cheer and Northwestinspired cuisine at the twentieth-floor signature restaurant, Bellpine. Wrap up the year by rejuvenating at the spa. www.ritzcarlton.com/portland

AT LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Hip Hop Nutcracker will hit the stage at Portland’s Keller Auditorium. A viewing of Pee-wee’s Playhouse holiday special at the Tomorrow Theater. A night out at Fun & Flirty: A Comedy Dating Show at the Tomorrow Theater. (photos, clockwise from top: Timothy Norris, PAM CUT, Fun & Flirty)

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Central Oregon Fall River Forest Bathing NOV. 16, 3 p.m.

DEC. 14, 3 p.m.

Take a cue from the forest about slowing down and resting around the holidays. Bend-based R’oming Yoga’s Missie Wikler, a former field biologist and forest therapy guide certified by the Association of Nature and Forest Therapy, guides you in cultivating deep relaxation and releasing stress. Much more than a walk in the woods, the experience begins with a forest immersion meditation to open you to an intentional connection to the land and a new way to experience nature through a guided sensory practice. www.romingyogabend.com/ forest-bathing

Mt. Bachelor’s Christmas Eve Santa DEC. 24, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Old St. Nick stays young by cruising the slopes, passing out candy and taking selfies with fans—a Christmas Eve tradition. www.mtbachelor.com

Sunriver Traditions NOV. 23-JAN. 1

Sunriver Resort’s 3,300 acres are the idyllic backdrop for horse-drawn sleigh rides through a snowy meadow, sipping hot cocoa by the fire, building a gingerbread house and enjoying a festive feast.

It kicks off with the Grand Illumination—a tree lighting and fireworks show with Santa, pony rides, live music, train rides, telescope viewings, hot cocoa, huggable characters, food vendors, dining at the lodge and gift-finding at the Merchant Trader shop. www.sunriverresort.com/traditions

Holiday Lights Paddle Parade DEC. 13, 4 p.m.

Paddlers clad in holiday garb parade up the Deschutes River through Bend’s Old Mill District in canoes, kayaks, paddleboards—whatever floats—decorated with colorful lights in a thoroughly Bend celebration. Gather along the banks and footbridges as stars appear overhead, the illuminated crafts reflect on the water and the sense of community, creativity and love for the outdoors builds. www.oldmilldistrict.com/event/ holiday_lights_paddle_parade

Black Butte Ranch Since 1970, Black Butte Ranch resort’s 1,800 acres is a retreat for wholesome holiday fun, including its Turkey Trot, tree lighting ceremony, breakfast with Santa, sleigh rides and skiing at nearby Hoodoo Ski Area. Sipping cocoa by the fire and morning alpenglow with views of the Three Sisters, Mount Washington, Black Butte, Broken Top, Three Fingered Jack and Mount Jefferson set the stage for mountain holiday magic. www.blackbutteranch.com

Hood River Polar Express Train Ride LATE NOVEMBER THROUGH EARLY JANUARY

As soon as the conductor calls, “All aboard!” and the train chugs from the station, the spirit of Christmas permeates the air. Magically, Santa boards at the North Pole within minutes, and while everyone nibbles cookies and sips hot cocoa, they get to tell him what they want to find under their tree. www.mthoodrr.com/train-rides/ polar-express-christmas-train

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM Holiday decorations in Hood River. Paddlers take part in the Holiday Lights Paddle Parade on the Deschutes River in Bend. Holiday lights at Heceta Lighthouse B&B. (photos, clockwise from bottom: Visit Hood River, Gwen Shoemaker/Old Mill District, Heceta Lighthouse B&B)

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Hood River Holidays DEC. 6

Soak up small-town atmosphere, shop small and stay in boutique charm. Make the fully decorated Historic Hood River Hotel your downtown winter base camp for the Holiday Vintage Bazaar or a Santa meet-and-greet with hot chocolate and peppermint schnapps for the parents. Or stay high above the Columbia River at the Columbia Gorge Hotel and walk the gardens, filled with colorful lights. www.visithoodriver.com/events

Oregon Coast Heceta Lighthouse B&B + Victorian Christmas Open House DEC. 14, 15, 21, 22, 4-7 p.m.

The open house, in its twenty-seventh year, transports you to 1894, the year

of the first Christmas at the beautifully decorated Keeper’s House. Local musicians, from jazz and string quartets to folk and choral ensembles, generously volunteer performances. Keep your holiday purchases local at the Heceta Lighthouse Gift Shop, and then don a headlamp and jacket for a stroll up to the lighthouse. Follow the Fresnel light, still shining from 205 feet above the Pacific, casting its beams 21 miles out to sea.

them LED), twenty-six Christmas trees, illuminated sculptures—including some that are animated—and landscape lights focused on the trees that encircle the garden. This tradition is the result of the efforts of the Friends of Shore Acres and 1,500 volunteers and support from local businesses, state park personnel and the community. www.oregonsadventurecoast.com/event/ annual-holiday-lights-at-shore-acres

www.hecetalighthouse.com/ events#christmas

Holiday Lights at Shore Acres State Park NOV. 28-DEC. 31, 4:30-9 p.m.

(including Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve) Stroll through an illuminated, 7-acre botanical garden and Japanese lily pond on the rugged cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Since 1987, this celebration has evolved into a spectacle of more than 325,000 holiday lights (nearly all of

Stroll through an illuminated, 7-acre botanical garden and Japanese lily pond on the rugged cliffs overlooking the Pacific.

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Willamette Valley Eugene Concert Choir Presents Handel’s Messiah DEC. 15, 2:30 p.m.

Most audiences have only heard the Christmas portion and the “Hallelujah Chorus,” but this is a rare opportunity to hear the excitement of the entire beloved masterwork. The story continues through life, suffering, triumph and redemption—in distinct, dramatic scenes. In Handel’s lifetime, Messiah was so popular that he created numerous versions of the arias and choruses to achieve the finest performances from the artists who sang in his concerts.

Today, with so many variations to choose from, every performance of Messiah is a unique experience shaped by the selections of the conductor. www.eugeneconcertchoir.org/ 2024-2025-season/handels-messiah

Eugene Ballet’s The Nutcracker

DEC. 19-22 AND 24, varied matinees and evenings Orchestra Next performs live to accompany this ballet replete with the sugar plum fairy and en pointe, twirling snowflakes— an annual tradition at Hult Center. www.hultcenter.org/events/ ebc-the-nutcracker-24

Retreat: The Campbell House Inn Make your Victorian holiday atmosphere complete by getting cozy at this luxurious bed-and-breakfast that dates back to 1892. Take in the wintery acre of landscaped grounds in Eugene’s historic district, old world charm and first-class

amenities. Wake to freshly baked scones, and take a short saunter to all the holiday happenings downtown at a range of venues including the Hult Center, Fifth Street Public Market and top-notch restaurants. www.campbellhouse.com

Wine Country Friendsgiving 2024 NOV. 30, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

This new (second annual) tradition in McMinnville comes from a close-knit group of friends who are also behind twelve dynamic wineries. United by friendship and collaboration, they’ve created a spirited tasting event, pairing exciting new Oregon wines with holidayinspired dishes by chef Brett Uniss of Humble Spirit in McMinnville. It’s a chance to experience some of Oregon’s finest up-and-coming wineries in one place. Approachment, Arabilis, CHO, Corollary, de la boue, Dolores, Liska, Lonesome Rock, Lundeen, Sealionne, Suzor and Vincent will pour their best selections, showcasing a vibrant slice of Oregon’s wine scene.

In the true valley spirit, Friendsgiving gives back, with part of sales benefitting the Yamhill Community Action Partnership, which works to improve the lives of local, low-income residents through housing stabilization, energy services, a regional food bank and youth services. www.corollarywines.com/events/2024/ friendsgiving

Be it red, white or bubbles, a bottle of something festive and fabulous food pairings are the way to celebrate the year’s end, family and friends.

Retreat: The Setting Inn Newberg, Dundee, Ribbon Ridge and Chehalem Mountain AVAs surround the inn’s Oregon-meets-Europe guest rooms. Unwind at the end of the day in the charmingly renovated barn to exchange gifts next to the fireplace, or in the courtyard with s’mores around the warming fire pits. www.thesettinginn.com/willamette

Eastern Oregon “Little Works” Art Exhibition and Fundraiser NOV. 22-DEC. 19

Be it red, white or bubbles, a bottle of something festive and fabulous food pairings are the way to celebrate the year’s end, family and friends. Scores of seasonal events are happening throughout Willamette Valley wine country.

In Joseph, the Josephy Center for Arts & Culture’s “Little Works” Exhibition of small works of art priced under $200 offers a platform for artists to display their talents and raises funds for programs nurturing young artistic talent. Peruse the works to find creative Christmas gifts that give back to others. The exhibition’s opening reception is November 29, from noon to 4 p.m., and coincides with the Stocking Stuffer Black Friday Art Supply Sale.

www.willamettewines.com

www.josephy.org/event/little-works-2024

Willamette Valley Wine Celebrations

AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Eugene’s Fifth Street Public Market in holiday dress. People of McMinnville come together for Friendsgiving. The Setting Inn in the heart of wine country in Newberg. (photos: Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast, Josh Chang/Foundry 503, The Setting Inn)

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Local ranch owners assisted each other digging trenches and fire lines long before the fire reached town. (photo: Becky Clark)

The Little Town That Could A small Oregon town’s response to this summer’s Lone Rock Fire written by Joni Kabana

“IT’S JUST what we do.” These words, barely audible, a resident of the small town of Spray spoke for everyone that morning about saving the town from a massive wildfire. His head bowed, I could feel the collective weight this fire had on him and many local volunteer firefighters. Local residents came off their farms and out of their houses and, for twenty-seven days, fought the relentless and unforgiving fires that would burn more than 100,000 acres in Wheeler County alone. From local teenagers to elders, both men and women joined at the front lines of the rapidly advancing fire, digging trenches, cutting trees and spraying flames to protect their own ranches, their neighbors’ farms and the beloved tiny town of Spray.

As the fire burned on and closer to my home, we received the dreadful Level 3 evacuation order. Thinking it would be the last time I would see my home intact, I tearfully drove down my driveway, my truck filled with precious things I had gathered in preparation. Staying did not appear to be an option. I watched the fire advance, and from a safe distance away via Facebook posts and photos, I could see local citizens who were more experienced than me in this type of crisis take on this beast with their collective might. Calm, steady and even with a sense of humor, they moved from one section of the fire to the next, in tandem and with a devotion to the land that would inspire even the most hardened heart.

The fire advanced from two separate directions toward my house over a twelve-hour period, crossing into my land and coming straight to the edge of outbuildings, which surely would have ignited my home had it not been for locals who had chosen not to leave but to steadfastly protect the town and homes.

For weeks after my return, I witnessed the same exhausted people who fought the massive Lone Rock Fire re-engage with twenty-two new fires that were ignited after a series of lightning strikes.

Once again, homes and ranch lands were vulnerable to the fires’ relentless assaults.

While I was interviewing and gathering images for this story, I hugged Valerie Howell, a former Spray mayor and lifelong resident who chose to stay and assist in any way she was needed. After a period of silence, she whispered quietly in my ear, “We stay, Joni. That’s what we do in this town—we stay.”

The town of Spray will humbly accept donations that will go toward the local fire crews and those who used their own equipment to keep the town, the farms and their families safe and sound.

Please address your checks to City of Spray Volunteer Fire Crew, P.O. Box 83, Spray, Oregon 97874 or find them on Venmo via cityofspray@sprayoregon.us.

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Local Spray citizens came out in droves, banding together to keep the Lone Rock Fire from advancing upon their town. (photo: Cassi Newton) FAR RIGHT, FROM TOP The author’s home as the Lone Rock Fire advanced over the hillside just before fire crews arrived to provide structure support. (photo: Chris Barnes, Monroe Rural Fire Protection District Fire Chief) The Spray Volunteer Fire Department consists of eleven official volunteers and numerous extraneous volunteers involved in fighting the fires. From left to right are a few of the crew members: Steven Cossitt, Steve Cossitt, Marissa Robison, Fire Chief Jeremiah Holmes, Dave Boise and Scott Mengis. Missing are Carter Boise, Tate Holmes, Dennis Starr, Ryan Starr, Travis Todd and Melody Wagner. (photo: Joni Kabana)

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Local Spray volunteer firefighters stand on the fire line, keeping advancement at bay. (photo: Melody Wagner) FAR RIGHT A young Spray volunteer firefigher assesses the behavior of the fire as winds change direction. (photo: Dave Boise)

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FAR LEFT Carson Conlee, 18, and his brother Gavin, 15, ran bulldozers, fell trees, drove fire trucks and brought their own vehicle to perform mechanical work on other vehicles in addition to working on the handlines and mopping up.

They fought around the clock to save their family home by the Lone Rock Fire and other subsequent fires that came soon after. (photo: Tina Conlee) CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Conlee home sits as a beacon of comfort as the fire rapidly approaches. (photo: Tina Conlee) Locals brought out their bulldozers and assisted each other to save homes in Spray’s vicinity and beyond. (photo: Cassi Newton) The Lone Rock Fire (and the fires that came after it) taxed even the most hardworking men and women, testing their limits and requiring them to sleep for short periods of time over the weeks battling fires. (photo: Cassi Newton)

IN FOCUS

See more photos online at www.1859 oregonmagazine. com/lonerockfire

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ADVENTURE 84 LODGING 88 TRIP PLANNER 92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 98

pg. 92 Oregon’s holiday-est town: Jacksonville, and its holiday parade.

Jacksonville Chamber of Commerce

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 82

AT SUNRIVE R R E S O RT

Why we love the Holidays For over 50 years, Sunriver Resort has been a treasured outpost for family and friends to celebrate the holiday season together. Unforgettable moments become cherished traditions as our 3,300 acres are transformed into a winter wonderland of family fun and snowy adventures. Ride a horse-drawn sleigh through a snowy meadow, sip hot cocoa by the fire after a snowshoe trek, build a gingerbread house, and of course, enjoy a festive feast with all the fixings. Join us in our nightly festivities throughout this holiday season.

Make memories. Book your holiday getaway at SunriverResort.com or call 855-783-8813

Travel Spotlight

Standing the Test of Time

Camping is vastly improved with a pie from Beckie’s Cafe.

Beckie’s Cafe is a long-time favorite in the Umpqua National Forest written by Joni Kabana

Jak Wonderly/Travel Southern Oregon

WHO WOULD HAVE thought back in 1926 that a small cafe located minutes from Crater Lake National Park would survive recessions, change of ownerships and even a pandemic?

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Beckie’s Cafe—in addition to host Union Creek Resort—has been a beloved destination for many sojourners, even as far back when Union Creek was an important camping spot on the long stretches of trails connecting early settlements with Crater Lake. Zane Grey, Jack London and Herbert Hoover purportedly have made stops there and mingled among patrons, in addition to many repeat connoisseurs.

“Beckie” was actually Ed Beckelhymer, who opened the cafe and passed the torch to his wife, Cecil, also becoming known as “Beckie,” until she passed during the late 1960s. A few recipes might have changed over the years with new owners, but the friendly service, attention to highly-quality ingredients and daily long hours of operation are still held in high value at this little historical pitstop.

While one can find traditional and unique offerings for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Beckie’s Cafe is best known for its cream, berry and pecan pies, all made with beef and pork tallow. Oregon microbrews and wines are in abundance, so plan to prop up your feet for a bit and savor delectable delights while taking in the timeless surroundings. Word has it that one of the “Beckies” is still floating around making sure every dish is prepared aptly, so this little cafe won’t disappoint.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

thinking the world revolves around you, come visit the Oregon Coast and think again.

THE

OREGON COAST visittheoregoncoast.com Funded in part by

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adventure

Catch, Sip and Savor

Crab, clams, whiskey and meteors—foodie adventures on land and water written by Cathy Carroll

Wanderlust Tours gets people outside for natural discovery and local craft beverages.

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Wanderlust Tours

SEIZE WINTER BOUNTY, seasoned with fun. The bays beckon with Dungeness crab. Beaches are brimming with clams. In wine country, explore beyond the vine on the whiskey trail, and take a path less traveled to an island in the Willamette River. Sip local spirits by a bonfire, or catch the time-honored Christmas Ships Parade from the water. Then, trek east to experience celestial events by snowshoeing beneath starlit skies. Toast it all on the Bend Ale Trail— here’s to adventure in delicious portions, from sea to valley to mountain.

Our attractions are always open.

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Alanna Kieffer

Coastal Foraging: Crab and Razor Clams

Digging for razor clams with Shifting Tides on Oregon’s North Coast.

Picture the idyllic Oregon winter holiday feast: Dungeness crab on your plate, melted butter at your side. What could be more satisfying? This: getting out into the salty air and catching the crab yourself. You don’t have to brave harsh winter ocean conditions either. Instead of battling strong winds, 20-foot waves and early morning low tides, head to the bays, says Alanna Kieffer, a marine biologist and founder of Shifting Tides, which offers coastal foraging workshops on the North Coast.

Kieffer also offers an understanding of how Oregon’s intertidal ecosystems and nutrient-rich waters create an abundance of species along its shores.

She collaborates with the Historic U.S. Coast Guard Boathouse, at the end of a pier over Tillamook Bay in Garibaldi.

“You’re in the middle of the bay, but it’s covered,” Kieffer explains. “So, even in the winter or bad weather, we can throw and pull crab pots while staying partially indoors, which is pretty unique.” Inside the boathouse, she demonstrates how to clean and steam the crab before the group enjoys eating them.

“When you get to go out in the rain and wind, experience the elements, then come back, warm up and eat the food you just harvested, there’s nothing quite like it,” Kieffer said. “It’s pretty satisfying.”

“When you get to go out in the rain and wind, experience the elements, then come back, warm up and eat the food you just harvested, there’s nothing quite like it. It’s pretty satisfying.”

Marine biologist Alanna Kieffer (right) leads a number of educational workshops on wild foods on the Oregon Coast.

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Sophia Knox

— Alanna Kieffer, marine biologist and Shifting Tides founder

Wine Country Whiskey Trail

adventure

Winter is also the perfect time to go razor clamming, especially in Seaside, part of Clatsop County’s coastline. “About 90 percent of our razor clams come from here, which is pretty wild considering it’s not a huge area,” Kieffer said.

She offers a primer on reading tide charts and covers safety, licenses, harvesting regulations and tips for spotting clams—a donut shape in the wet sand. She equips participants with clam guns made of 3-foot-long PVC pipe, and using the clam guns to create suction, they unearth the mollusks.

For more coastal bounty adventures, explore the North Coast Food Trail of artisan products, bakeries, cafés, craft beverages, eateries, experiences, farmers markets, farms, seafood and lodging.

Wine Country Whiskey Trail + River Tours

Christmas Ships

Whiskey and winter are a perfect pairing. Sipping the warming, complex spirit is the ideal way to settle into a long winter’s night, especially aboard a jet boat headed toward a bonfire on an island in one of the Willamette River’s most undisturbed sections near Newberg.

First, explore the Wine Country Whiskey Trail to sample artisan libations made with local grains. It includes Dayton-based Branch Point Distillery’s bourbon and smoky, peaty whiskeys and Newberg-based Brixeur Spirits’ whiskeys aged in pinot noir, cabernet and Riesling casks.

Bring your favorite bottle aboard the MatKat, where Scott Heesacker, a lifelong Willamette Valley resident and captain of NW Jet Boat Charters, hosts small groups. The boat’s smoothriding seats and heated cabin keep you cozy as you take in the immense calm and quiet of a 25-mile stretch of river, largely untouched by development—farmland has bordered both banks since pioneer days. Spot bald eagles and herons by day, and by night, the sound of the water lapping and beavers slapping their tails on it completes the ambience as you approach the island.

The boutique tours also offer a way to experience the Christmas Ships Parade from the water. View the 70-year tradition in which sixty-five boat owners decorate their vessels with illuminated displays and parade along the Willamette and Columbia rivers in Portland and Vancouver for two weeks during the holiday season, starting December 5.

“You feel like you’re actually part of the parade,” said Heesacker.

Meteor Shower Snowshoe Tours + Ale Trail

FROM TOP Wine Country’s Whiskey Trail at Branch Point Distillery in Dayton. Christmas Ships on the Willamette River.

Snowshoe in deep powder under the dark skies of Deschutes National Forest for the Geminids meteor shower and full moon.

Wanderlust Tours’ naturalist guides share the Native American history of snowshoeing along with hot cocoa December 4 through 20.

In November, Bend Ale Trail month is the time to get your free passport and log brewery, distillery and cidery visits for fun and souvenirs in Bend, Redmond, Prineville, Sisters and Sunriver.

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ROOMS

Photos: Martina Patella/Kubli Haus

Each of the five graciously sized suites combines a mix of antiques and vintage pieces (textured rugs, paintings) with modern touches (statement wallpaper, chandeliers) bringing layers of warmth and richness.

For standout features, reserve Suite 3—there’s a luxe tub that stretches under a 1930s chandelier. Or opt for Suite 1, with beautiful bay windows and an opulent forest mural.

FEATURES

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Built in 1860, Kubli Haus is a tastefully updated version of its prior self. With generous light and Turkish linens, the rooms are cozy and luxurious. Each of the five suites has a mix of antique charm and modern amenities.

Kubli Haus written by Kerry Newberry FOR KATHLEEN and Brian Dunn, Kubli Haus is more than a small town retreat—it’s an ode to history and happenstance. A few years ago, when considering a pivot from city suburb to small town life, the couple began touring properties in Southern Oregon. “When we first drove into Jacksonville, we looked at each other and knew this was it,” said Kathleen.

Steeped in history and packed with charm, the entire town of MORE INSIDE Jacksonville is designated a National Historic Landmark. It’s easy to Plan your getaway swoon over the beautiful brick buildings and leafy neighborhoods. to Jacksonville and the What the couple didn’t expect was to fall head over heels for a ramApplegate Valley with the help of our Trip shackle but stately historic home built in 1860 that was in need of Planner on pg. 92 monumental TLC. “We knew it was a big risk,” said Brian. “But we also wanted to invest in the town.”

The yearslong labor of love was a family affair. They demoed the entire house with their two teens, who also became de facto experts in historic architecture. Brian leveraged his career as a civil engineer into historic remodels, and Kathleen designed and decorated all five suites, embracing a modern-meets-old-world elegance. “We wanted a stay here to feel restorative and restful,” she said.

Medleys of patterns throughout add personality, from a spiral staircase with a leopard print runner to a lush forest mural. But what sets the inn apart is an homage to the past that the couple loves to share, whether that’s stories about the town or the spirit of wabisabi, seen in the patina of the original wood floors and the ancient threshold that Kathleen steps over each day. “We kept these accents because that’s what gives something soul.”

305 S. OREGON ST. JACKSONVILLE www.kublihaus.com

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A wraparound porch provides the perfect perch for morning coffee and reading books. In the summer, Kubli Haus is a prime spot for Britt Fest—the musical venue is only one block away. Come winter, bundle up and walk to the town’s Victorian Christmas, a monthlong celebration with carolers, mulled cider and a holiday trolley.

AMENITIES All five suites have plush Turkish linens and in-room coffee service. For extended stays, Suite 2 offers a full-size fridge, and Studio 5 is pet friendly and has a full kitchen, outdoor BBQ and private courtyard. (Three sets of guests who stayed in the studio were so smitten by the town, they eventually moved to Jacksonville.)

DINING Start your morning at the British-inspired Bakery at McCully, where the pastry case is stocked with quiche, sausage rolls, savory hand pies and scones. You’ll meet locals (and their pups), plus the cheery vibe evokes Stars Hollow (IYKYK). For dinner, try the veg-forward Cowhorn Kitchen & Wine or Gogi’s Restaurant for a farm-to-table feast.

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Known for its wild and scenic rivers, the Rogue Valley is a hub for outdoor pursuits, from downhill and cross-country skiing to snowshoeing, hiking, and fishing. Enjoy easy access to iconic destinations nearby such as Crater Lake, California’s redwoods, and Oregon Caves National Monument.

Food and wine lovers can savor exceptional farm-to-table dining options or explore the region’s approximately 180 vineyards and 27 tasting rooms.

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trip planner Jacksonville sets up like a postcard during the holidays.

Jacksonville and the Applegate Valley ’Tis the most wonderful place when snow comes to Southern Oregon IMAGINE A storybook gold rush-era town, where stately houses and brick boutiques glisten with holiday charm, where recreation options beckon and where cocoa and award-winning wines take turns warming you up.

Also, imagine it’s not only Santa checking to see if you’re naughty or nice. Bigfoot might be watching, too.

In Southern Oregon’s Jacksonville and the neighboring Applegate Valley, imagination meets reality.

Here, as the mercury falls, lights go up and the nostalgia comes out.

Each year, a Victorian Christmas celebration offers a tantalizing escape to a simpler time. Distant are big city stressors, and real world depressors. Soak in the decor, food, farm stands, spas, musicians, trails, parade and the romantic downtown that practically begs you to hold hands inside your winter gloves.

This year, the tradition gets bigger. Jacksonville Trolley buses that previously dispatched to nearby Medford for Christmastime tours will be staying in town instead, now to proudly zigzag a local-only panorama.

“We will be showing off our history in addition to our lights,” said Brian Dunn, the local chamber president, a building contractor 92

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

and architect of the new holiday experience. An added incentive?

There’ll be hot chocolate for the forty-five-minute tours.

When wagons were still creaking west on the Oregon Trail, the glitter of gold lured the early arrivals to the rough new town, first known as Table Rock City and notoriously the site of the Oregon Territory’s first recorded hanging.

Thousands of nearby mines yielded millions of dollars of the precious stuff, and helped to finance Victorian-style mansions and the state’s first Chinatown. One settler, a Swiss immigrant named Peter Britt, also planted orchards and established the Pacific Northwest’s first winery.

His winery didn’t survive Prohibition and the Great Depression, but today there’s no shortage of them—eighteen in total— on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail.

Also a photographer, Britt is credited with the earliest known photos of Crater Lake. If he were still around, he’d undoubtedly also point his lens—like the rest of us—at the magical transformation of his hometown. In those days, it might have been hard to imagine.

Come December, it’s now hard to imagine it being more perfect.

Photo: © David Gibb Photography (www.dgibbphoto.com)

written by James Sinks

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Tony Kay Photography/Jacksonville Chamber of Commerce

The holiday parade during Victorian Chrismas celebrations in historic downtown Jacksonville.

Day CARROT CAKE • SHOPPING • HOLIDAY LIGHTS TOUR Backroad byways are one of Oregon’s traveling joys, inviting you to revel in stunning vistas, wave to curious animals and prowl random points of interest. The journey on state Highway 238, which meanders 30 miles from Grants Pass through the Applegate Valley to Jacksonville, covers all those bases. A bonus? Good snacks.

At the 145-year-old Provolt Country Store & Deli, a destination itself, the star attraction is the house-made carrot cake, under a pillow of cream cheese icing and with almost half its weight in carrots. In gold country, the more carrots, the better.

Following the mining rush, Jacksonville became largely an afterthought, and the county seat even moved next door to Medford. Without much redevelopment pressure—it’s still home to less than 3,000 people—the town became a time capsule of sorts and in 1966 was declared a historic district in its entirety. Now, tourism drives the economy.

Holiday list in hand, browse the four-block, once-boomtown downtown to a smorgasbord of bedecked clothing boutiques, antique peddlers, kitchenware and jewelry shops, and bougie watering holes. If you like interpretive signs, find a bonanza of those, too, including at the site where remnants of Chinatown were unearthed.

There’s no longer snooker, but you can scout seats and snacks at GoodBean Coffee, in a circa-1852 billiards hall and saloon.

Breakfast is served until 2.

Impervious to temperature and have your pup in tow? Violets & Cream candy shop sells twenty-eight ice cream flavors for 94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

people, and three options for furry friends. Stiff from the drive?

Several local spas including Belita Space offer rubdowns.

On South Third Street, local artisans are the stars in an inviting country cottage at Artist & Gardener, started eight years ago by a pair of California escapees. The artist founder, Todd Lovett, paints watercolors on site, while Mark Sutter, the gardener, dresses up the yard and porch.

After a tasting room or two, burrow into your holiday coat and queue for the Holiday Trolley Lights Tour. The route will whisk past the courthouse-turned-city hall, several Victorian houses-turned-hotels including elegant Kubli Haus, and the Bigham Knoll Drive campus, home to the original schoolhouse, the local Rogue Brewery and mini golf, weather-permitting. A live-action Nativity scene is also planned.

Nightly tours begin after Thanksgiving. Save spots starting Nov. 1.

Afterward, inspired fare and mellow vibes await at Gogi’s Restaurant, where the wine list is long, the wooden bar is artful and seasonal dishes feature the bounty of Southern Oregon.

Try the smoked salmon cakes and semolina gnocchi with artichoke purée.

For toe-tapping post-dinner entertainment, high step into Italian eatery Bella Union or the South Stage Cellars tasting room. Or, if you prefer pool, a jukebox and taxidermy, head to local hangout J’Ville Tavern—the oldest bar in the Rogue Valley—where the drinks are strong and the conversation is lively.

The stuffed animals? Not so much.

trip planner

Day

Chris Martin/Red Lily Vineyards

Apex Video Tours/McCully House Inn

Travel Southern Oregon

APPLEGATE RIVER • BIGFOOT TRAP • WINERIES The oldest Oregon residence that’s now an inn, the circa-1860 McCully House was saved from bankruptcy when Jane McCully—abandoned by her husband—made pies and bread for local miners.

Fittingly, today there’s a cozy bakery on site, with pastries, steaming espresso and a filthy-rich chocolate-frosted gluten-free cake. Take that, creditors.

Born in the Siskiyou Mountains, the Applegate River—named after Lindsay Applegate, who helped scout the Applegate Trail through Southern Oregon—weaves past old mines and presentday gold panning beaches, clusters of wineries, hemp and berry farms, a hang glider jumping-off spot and, some believe, one big hairy fella.

Spurred by those myths, the Applegate includes an Oregon see-it-to-believe-it destination, the world’s only Bigfoot Trap.

To get there, the 1.8-mile in-and-back hike on the Collings Mountain Trail fords a seasonal creek and tightropes through enough poison oak that leaving the path would be a rash decision. Up a hill at about the three-quarter-mile mark, you can peer inside the burly wooden hut with a heavy steel door. Built in 1974 and now decommissioned, it caught a few hungry bears, but no Bigfeet.

Even if you don’t meet Sasquatch, you can still toast the trek with a beverage oddity: At roadside Code 3 Coffee & Snacks, the pickle juice lemonade will surprise your taste buds. Even better, sip whilst you stroll through covered McKee Bridge, which has its own historical society and, some years, yuletide decor.

Applegate wineries offer a range of tasting experiences, from mom-and-pop operations to multimillion dollar chateaus. Yet one name keeps coming up when you ask for tips, and that’s Red Lily Vineyards, where Spanish wine flights and perky Lily Girl Rosé arrive in test tubes in a farmhouse with a river rock fireplace.

A decade ago, Wooldridge Creek Winery became the state’s first combined winery and creamery, sourced with organic milk from neighboring Noble Dairy. It’s a great place for lactose-loving lunch and gift shopping from the cooler, if you have friends who like cheese.

Nearby, Rosella’s Vineyard & Winery is unassuming and sublime, with the wine often poured in the tiny tasting room by owner Rex Garoutte. They also sell homemade zesty pretzels called Spretzels for $5.

For a contrast next door, explore the sprawling grounds and cavernous great hall at Schmidt Family Vineyards, with a lake outside and twenty-two varietals and warmth inside. For holiday merriment, they burned a wooden Grinch in 2023, and plan a similar event again.

AT LEFT, FROM TOP GoodBean Coffee is served inside an 1852-era billiards hall.

The Victorian McCully House Inn in Jacksonville. The beautiful barn winery of Red Lily Vineyards.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

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DANCIN Vineyards

trip planner

James Sinks

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP An aerial view of DANCIN Vineyards, where great wine and pizzas come together in its piazza. The Applegate River is the life-giver for natural communities throughout Southern Oregon. Sindy’s Pigeon Service is a great stop for bird lovers. A longstanding Bigfoot trap was decommissioned but stands as a monument to folklore.

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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

Don’t miss Pennington Farms store and bakery, with berries, pies, a kaleidoscope of jam (gift list fodder!) and dreamy cocoa inspired by Judy’s perfect hot chocolate from the Santa Clause movie, all with a happy, laid-back Aloha surfer vibe—courtesy of one of the owners, who grew up in Hawaii.

Relax and unwind at The Lindsay Lodge, named after the onetime explorer. Once known as Applegate River Lodge, the hotel boasts themed rooms and big bathtubs, a 12-foot Christmas tree in the lobby and a farm-to-table restaurant and bar—all overlooking the namesake river, as it slides past into the silent night.

Day

Tim Daw

WINERY BRUNCH • SANTA • PIGEONS Vacation is typically a game of hide-and-seek with calories, and the calories always seem to win. But you can ditch a few on a bike on the lightly trafficked roadways of the Applegate.

It’s temporary. You’ll find those calories again with flavorful brunch and morning cocktails at the Italian estate-evoking DANCIN Vineyards, where the logo is a ballerina but the name is a blend of the medal-winning winery’s founders, Dan and Cindy Marca. While DANCIN’s menu rotates (cross your fingers for the tri-tip hash), seating is most always limited, so reserve ahead.

Weekends in December, Santa sets up shop downtown, if you want to sneak a peek at his list. Naughty? Nice? Hopefully, a bit of both.

In addition to its old buildings, Jacksonville also loves its open spaces, including the onetime property of Peter Britt, now home to a summer music festival. Behind the historic Beeker House, built by a onetime banker, stroll a 1-mile loop through a hillside native plant arboretum to valley views.

You’ll see critters and maybe a few birds, but that probably won’t prepare you for the cooing menagerie at Sindy’s Pigeon Service, a rescue business that’s run by a retired California attorney and her husband.

“Pigeons’ love is enormous,” Sindy Morgan said, cradling a black-and-white named Oreo and kissing him on the head.

For free, tour the aviary, where eighty feral and rescued domestic birds with names like Boris, Beverly and Brenda fly about.

A hat is a very good idea. Sindy also gives school talks, and builds urban pigeon houses where eggs can easily be collected for population control, as a way to reduce pressure to euthanize the birds.

Make a final visit to California Street for some sanitizer and any remaining gift shopping, then step into French-inspired C St. Bistro for sourdough pizza and tomato soup with lemon pepper sour cream and kalamata olive purée. Started in 2010 by Paul Becking, a onetime Santa Barbara chef who’s committed to “badfree” ingredients, the place may look tiny from the outside, but the flavors sure aren’t.

In a way, that’s also an apt metaphor for Jacksonville and the Applegate. Small yet surprising, flavorful, natural and artful. And especially during the throwback holidays, decidedly bad-free.

JACKSONVILLE + THE APPLEGATE VALLEY, OREGON

trip planner

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

EAT Back Porch Bar & Grill www.backporchjacksonville.com Bella Union Restaurant & Saloon www.bellau.com C St. Bistro www.cstbistro.com DANCIN Vineyards www.dancin.com Gogi’s Restaurant www.gogisrestaurant.com GoodBean Coffee www.goodbean.com J’Ville Tavern 541-899-1170 Wooldridge Creek Winery & Creamery www.wcv.farm

STAY Jacksonville Inn www.jacksonvilleinn.com Kubli Haus www.kublihaus.com The Lindsay Lodge & Restaurant www.thelindsaylodge.com McCully House Inn www.mccullyhouseinn.com

PLAY Applegate Valley www.wanderapplegate.com Applegate Valley Wine Trail www.applegatevalley.wine Artist & Gardener www.artistandgardener.com Belita Space www.belitaspace.com Bigfoot Trap www.fs.usda.gov Gold panning/Applegate Ranger District 503-899-1812 Pennington Farms www.pennington.farm Red Lily Vineyards www.redlilyvineyards.com Sindy’s Pigeon Service www.sindyspigeonservice.com Victorian Christmas www.jacksonvilleoregon.org

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 97

northwest destination

Vancouver Island’s Malahat SkyWalk soars above the forest, giving visitors who make the climb unparalleled views.

98 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

northwest destination

Some Great Heights The soaring Malahat SkyWalk helps connect the present to Vancouver’s Indigenous past written by James Sinks

Malahat SkyWalk

UNFOLDING BELOW, a lush blanket of Vancouver Island rainforest disappears at a rugged shoreline, and then rises again through mist-shrouded hillsides across a narrow bay.

Eagles tack in the wind. There is no bustle, except maybe the happy screams of children descending a slide nearby.

The bird’s-eye vantage comes courtesy of one of the more ambitious and architecturally stunning ecotourism projects in North America, the circular Malahat SkyWalk, just northwest of Victoria, B.C. Opened in 2021, the centerpiece of the $17 million SkyWalk project is a towering wood-and-steel scaffold that invites you to corkscrew from a Douglas firand-cedar forest upward some ten floors—roughly 800 feet from the ground below—to a 360-degree viewing platform where on clear days you can see as far away as Washington’s Mount Baker.

It’s a place that can make you feel simultaneously on top of the world, and humbled by it.

Long before the Western expansion, Vancouver Island and the abundant waters of the Pacific were the territory of several Indigenous First Nations.

The location of the SkyWalk along the Saanich Inlet once was a tribal trading and gathering place; now, the visitors come from across the world.

The attraction is operated in partnership with the Malahat Nation, a Saanich tribe whose ancestral home encompasses the shoreline over which the SkyWalk soars. The SkyWalk was proposed and financed by the developers of the Sea to Sky aerial gondola, a separate project on the British Columbia mainland between Vancouver and Whistler.

In addition to the curving ramp to the top of the SkyWalk, the attraction also includes an elevated wood-planked TreeWalk through the forest, along which a local artist has fashioned driftwood likenesses of woodland wildlife including a wolf, heron and cougar. The walk from the welcome center to the top of the tower and back is 1.4 miles.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A lover’s paradise, people stroll along Victoria Harbor, with its Parliament building in the distance. Butchart Gardens, with 55 acres of beauty. Inside the Royal BC Museum.

Winter operating hours are shorter, but crowds are thinner.

For warmth and ambience, the staff also maintains an outdoor fire pit. Thankfully, the flames are not directly below the wooden tower, but rather in an adjacent plaza with a playground and food options. In warmer months, yoga classes are offered on the observation deck on top.

It takes about twenty minutes to walk up, and—if you take the spiral slide in the center of the tower—about ten seconds to get back down, said spokesman Ian Wish. The record for number of trips down the slide in one day is forty-seven, by an 8-year-old girl.

Also at the top, if your tummy can handle heights, you can bounce onto a 900-square-foot “Adventure Net” anchored in the center of the structure and peer through to the forest floor below.

Wish said the SkyWalk is helping to achieve its mission in two ways. First, it gives almost anybody, regardless of age and mobility, the ability to see and experience a view that might otherwise 100

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

be reserved for hikers. The entire stretch is wheelchair accessible; there are no steps, and electric scooters are available to rent.

It also harkens to history. “It allows the average person to connect with the land and the area the way First Nations have experienced for millenia,” he said.

The SkyWalk is just one way Vancouver Island echoes with Indigenous culture and ways to celebrate it, and to reflect on how tumult sometimes shaped that history, which dates back thousands of years.

The capital of British Columbia and named after the then British queen, Victoria originated in 1843 as a fort and settlement that displaced a forcibly relocated village. When gold prospectors poured into the area in the 1850s, the city became home to the West Coast’s second Chinatown, behind San Francisco. It also was the epicenter of a smallpox outbreak in the 1860s that wiped out two-thirds of the island’s Indigenous population.

Destination BC/Local Wanderer

VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA

northwest destination

EAT Alpina www.villaeyrie.com/ alpina-restaurant Be Love www.beloverestaurant.ca Fishermans Wharf www.fishermanswharfvic.ca Il Terrazzo www.ilterrazzo.com Songhees Food Truck www.songheesevents.ca/ food-truck

STAY Fairmont Empress www.fairmont.com/ empress-victoria Hotel Grand Pacific www.hotelgrandpacific.com Villa Eyrie www.villaeyrie.com

PLAY Butchart Gardens www.butchartgardens.com Malahat SkyWalk www.malahatskywalk.com

A port facing the picturesque Salish Sea, which separates Canada from Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, Victoria today is a bustling, international cityscape that was voted the world’s top city to visit by Condé Nast Traveler readers in 2023. It also remains interwoven with First Nation history and culture, from towering totem poles at Thunderbird Park to the Unity Wall mural on the Victoria seawall to the Seven Signs of the lək̓wəŋən, large bronze casts at significant tribal historical sites across the city.

At the Royal BC Museum, curators offer glimpses of some of more than 200,000 artifacts. At the same time, the museum also is engaging with First Nations leaders about how to more appropriately honor their cultures, taking into account the colonial past.

Downtown at the Mark Loria Gallery, find the handiwork of leading Indigenous artists across Canada.

Destination BC/Jordan Dyck

Destination BC/Jordan Dyck

Royal BC Museum www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca Seven Signs of the lək’wəŋən www.songheesnation.ca Thunderbird Park www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca Victoria Butterfly Garden www.butterflygardens.com

You also can experience Indigenous-influenced flavors at Songhees Food Truck, which celebrates the Songhees Nation’s history with a menu that includes bannock (fried bread), seafood chowder and bison sausage.

No visit to Victoria would be complete without a peek at the circa-1888, tarnished-domed Parliament building, awash in holiday twinkly lights and overlooking the harbor and ferry terminal, and a leisurely walk through world-acclaimed Butchart Gardens, where 55 acres of display gardens, restaurants and even gelato now occupy a former limestone quarry.

A national historic site, the gardens sit in the traditional territory of the W ̱ SÁNEĆ people. To celebrate that connection and heritage, two bird-topped totem poles—designed and carved in the classic Coast Salish style—gaze down on the oftphotographed place, symbolically bringing together the beauty of Victoria’s present with its past.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 101

1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater

Cannon Beach

Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

Pendleton

The Dalles

Joseph La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville Redmond

Sisters Florence

John Day Ontario

Bend

Eugene Springfield

Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass

Paisley

Medford Brookings

Jacksonville Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

14 Chehalem Cultural Center

50 JD’s Shoe Repair

82

Beckie’s Cafe

24 Dappled Tonic

54 Relay Resources

84

Wanderlust Tours

25 Furioso Vineyards

88

Kubli Haus

26 Crown C Farms

92

Applegate Valley

42 HiiH Lights

98

Victoria, British Columbia

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Until Next Time Snowshoers trek through Mt. Hood National Forest on a guided tour with Mt. Hood Outfitters. photo courtesy of Travel Oregon

News.

Worthy.

Daily.

Continue for Special Insert

GET THE BEST OF BEND.

BOOK YOUR TRIP TODAY AT MTBACHELOR.COM

Montana’s Big Sky Resort is a must-visit. (photo: Patrick Conory/Big Sky Resort)

YOUR 2024/25

NORTHWEST SKI GUIDE GET STOKED. This ski season is shaping up to be a La Niña snow monster.

What is La Niña, and why do we associate it with more snow?

La Niña is a massive ocean-atmosphere climate phenomenon that is linked to cooling in sea-surface temperatures across the Pacific. Historically, this phenomenon has been the fluff of dreams for Pacific Northwest skiers and snowboarders.

Meteorologists are now seeing similar weather patterns this year as the La Niña cycle from 2016. In 2016, for example, snowfall at Mt. Bachelor surged 44 percent, Mt. Hood Meadows jumped 26 percent, and Mt. Baker got dumped with 35 percent more snow.

Though there is no guarantee La Niña will occur, or to the same extent, six of the past seven similar events brought more

snow to the Pacific Northwest than the prior year. What this does mean is that if you’re a fence-sitter on whether or not to buy a season pass, this seems like an odds-on year to perhaps get the most and best ski days in a while.

If you’re feeling stung from a canceled or underwhelming ski trip last year, your confidence should rise this season with the likelihood of one elegantly layered with snow, your skis the warp and weft.

And if you have wains just learning how to ski, there is nothing better than soft falls followed by tongues digging out from snow-covered faces.

Here are some of our favorite ski areas to find some big La Niña snow in the Pacific Northwest.

A publication of Statehood Media

Cover: Crystal Mountain

www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com

photo: Jason Hummel/Crystal Mountain

2024 SKI NORTHWEST 3

OREGON

HOODOO SKI AREA Known by the motto “Steep, Deep and Cheap,” Hoodoo is a budget alternative to the popular Mt. Bachelor. It has thirty-six runs, 800 skiable acres and five lifts. On the Santiam Pass, Hoodoo’s base elevation is 4,700 feet. Though Hoodoo gets an average annual snowfall of 450 inches, the resort struggles with weather patterns atop the Santiam Pass. When the snow is plentiful, Hoodoo is a classic small-resort experience. Just 21 miles northwest of Sisters, Hoodoo gives its skiers and riders a thrilling day at the slopes and the benefits of being close to the cozy western town of Sisters.

Enjoy reduced rates with the Hoodoo AnyCard, which puts you on the slopes for less than $66 for any five days with no blackout dates. Never forget Thrifty Thursdays for discount lift tickets, and kids 10 and under always ski free at Hoodoo!

DINING + DRINKING: A few favorites in the Sisters area are Three Creeks Brewery on the FivePine Lodge campus, Angeline’s Bakery for vegan and vegetarian food of the most divine quality and The Open Door for modern cuisine and Oregon wines. Sisters Bakery on the main street, Cascade Avenue, also makes the mother of all fritters. A family of four could greedily share one.

Enjoy sprawling terrain on Oregon’s iconic mountain at Mt. Hood Meadows. (photo: Richard Hallman/Mt. Hood Meadows)

MT. HOOD MEADOWS Mt. Hood Meadows ski area is 35 scenic miles south of Hood River.

Meadows, as it’s known, has 2,150 acres of terrain, 2,777 vertical feet, eleven lifts and eighty-seven trails. Its reputation soars with advanced skiers as its terrain offers a lot in the expert range.

DINING + DRINKING: In the Fruit Loop of Oregon, Hood River sits at the nexus of great craft beer

and wine, a nice problem to have.

Perhaps the best way to split the difference is at restaurants like Solstice Wood Fire Pizza and Four & Twenty Blackbirds food truck, which have beautiful vegetarian options. Double Mountain Brewery has delicious beer and the best truffle pizza combo.

For the full experience, try Celilo downtown, which brings together local meat, produce and wine in a romantic atmosphere.

Hoodoo packs great value as well as plenty of fun with nearby resorts, spas and the charming Westernthemed town of Sisters. (photo: Pete Alport/Hoodoo Ski Area)

The family-friendly Mt. Ashland is relatively inexpensive and adjacent to a town with some of the best restaurants in the state. (photo: Mt. Ashland Ski Area)

MT. ASHLAND Mt. Ashland has five lifts serving forty-five runs and 1,150 vertical feet over 240 acres. Though it’s not a massive resort, on good snow years, it is the perfect oldschool retreat from the masses.

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DINING + DRINKING: Caldera Brewery has it right when it comes to solid pub fare and tasty craft beers. For a full culinary experience, treat yourself to Larks Home Kitchen, where everything is made from local sources and with the finest care.

Y t Y p

YOU live for the RUSH. You’re our people.

There’s a certain breed of folks who seek inspiration off the beaten path. We know because we’re those folks too. Whether captivated by the natural beauty of our surroundings or our warm and friendly town, Hood River is the year-round destination for what moves you. Plan your journey at VisitHoodRiver.com

Photo: Richard Hallman

OREGON

MT. BACHELOR Mt. Bachelor is the belle of the ball in Oregon. It has more than 4,300 acres of terrain, twelve chair lifts, 101 runs, terrain parks, 3,365 feet of vertical and days-worth of territory to ski. While Bachelor can be seen for miles around, it’s 22 miles back into Bend that you’ll find the first lodging accommodations.

DINING + DRINKING: Dining options are easy and plentiful in Bend, where good food and good beer go hand in hand.

To get the best of Bend, begin

at its breweries. At Lifty’s, the atmosphere, food and beer are spot on for après ski. Deschutes Brewery is well known and worth the wait for its food and drink.

Likewise with Crux Fermentation Project, the food and beer are divine and the views of the Cascades are not bad either.

For cocktails, try Waypoint at Northwest Crossing or margaritas at El Sancho. The best vegetarian meals in Bend are at Wild Rose, a downtown northern Thai restaurant, and Spork, a creative Asian fusion restaurant.

With more than 4,300 acres of skiable terrain, Mt. Bachelor is the mother of all resorts in Oregon. (photo: Mt. Bachelor)

ANTHONY LAKES MOUNTAIN RESORT The base of Anthony Lakes just north of Baker City in Eastern Oregon begins at 7,100 feet, which ain’t nothing. The old-school ski area feels a little like the one you grew up with, but with a twist.

The terrain can get a little steep.

The snow can get very deep, and the backcountry or cat skiing

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can be top-shelf pow pow. One triple chair serves twenty-one runs and 1,100 acres. Anthony Lakes’ Starbottle Saloon in the lodge is itself worth the journey.

DINING + DRINKING: For dining options in Baker City, Latitude 45 Grille serves local meat in the form of steak and burgers, and Mulan Garden is good for vegetarian options.

Anthony Lakes in Eastern Oregon is a true local gem and a fun throwback destination. (photo: Alyssa Henry/Anthony Lakes)

DITCH THE KEYS, EMBRACE THE JOURNEY Discover Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory Car-Free

Forget the hassle of traffic and parking. Your next vacation can be a breath of fresh air in Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory. Just outside bustling Portland, this destination offers outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers the opportunity for a car-free adventure.

Start your journey by taking Amtrak to Portland and hopping on the MAX Green Line to Clackamas Town Center. The Monarch Hotel’s shuttle will whisk you away to your base camp. This hotel offers traditional amenities and a captivating speakeasy, The Underground, for a unique experience.

Before heading out, stop by the REI Re/Supply Clackamas store for tax-free outdoor gear. Then, board the Sandy Area Metro (SAM) to Sandy, the adventure hub. Explore the area’s history at the Sandy Historical Museum before catching the Mt. Hood Express to one of the incredible ski resorts on Mt. Hood.

Try a guided snowshoe tour with Mt. Hood Outfitters

Mt. Hood Skibowl features the most black diamond runs in the state and also has 34 fully lit runs, making it the largest night ski area in the U.S. Timberline Lodge & Ski Area boasts the Pacific Northwest’s largest vertical terrain and is the only ski-in, ski-out lodging in Oregon.

Mt. Hood Outfitters offers guided snowshoeing, nordic skiing and snowmobile tours. And after your adventure, refuel at one of the many Government Camp dining options, from Charlie’s Mountain View to Mt. Hood Brewing Company. And don’t miss the Huckleberry Inn for a stack of delicious huckleberry pancakes.

View of Mt. Hood from Mt. Hood Skibowl

By leaving your car behind, you can experience winter on Mt. Hood sustainably and stress-free. So, grab your gear, lace up your hiking boots and embark on a carfree adventure.

SCAN TO PLAN YOUR TRIP TODAY!

omht.us/car-free

Huckleberry pancakes offer a taste of Mt. Hood

WASHINGTON

White Pass Ski Area west of Yakima has both alpine and Nordic ski options. (photo: Jason Hummel/ State of Washington Tourism)

Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park, just outside of Spokane, spans more than 1,700 acres. (photo: Lindsey Bangsberg/Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park)

MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK Approximately 30 miles northeast of Spokane, Mt. Spokane is home to seven lifts, fifty-two runs and more than 1,700 acres. The daily lift ticket isn’t the cheapest in the Northwest, but moderate for the region. Take $15 off your lift ticket price if you’re a late riser and start after 12:30 p.m.

MT. BAKER SKI AREA

WHITE PASS SKI AREA Less than an hour west of Yakima, White Pass Ski Area sets up nicely for families, with half of its runs intermediate, a third beginner and a smattering of advanced runs. In all, there are 1,400 skiable acres, with 2,000 feet of vertical covering six chairlifts and forty-five runs. White Pass’s Nordic skiing comprises 18 kilometers of groomed skinny skiing.

DINING + DRINKING: For both dining and drinking, two places in Yakima stand out—Cowiche Canyon Kitchen and Crafted. Both have a full bar, craft beer and tantalizing menus.

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Just under 60 miles east of Bellingham and in the North Cascades, Mt. Baker is seen as a locals’ mountain buttressed by season pass holders. Baker has eight quad chairs, 1,500 vertical feet and 1,000 acres of deep snow.

DINING + DRINKING: For dining and drinking, head back to Bellingham for a lively brewery scene that includes Aslan and Kulshan breweries and restaurants Lombardi’s and Keenan’s at the Pier, as well as dozens more.

AT RIGHT Mt. Baker Ski Area brings the powder. (photo: Visit Bellingham)

DINING + DRINKING: Head into Spokane, which has become a booming culinary scene—from restaurants such as Zona Blanca ceviche bar and delicate pastas at Gander & Ryegrass as well as alluring cocktail bars like Bistango Martini Lounge and Hogwash Whiskey Den.

Your Year-Round Getaway!

Discover North America’s Largest Network of Cross-Country Ski Trails Boutique shopping, affordable lodging, delicious food, and plenty of outdoor recreation.

WinthropWashington.com For trail conditions, visit MethowTrails.org

SKINNY SKIS welcome 200+km groomed daily kids ski free

methowtrails.org

WASHINGTON

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN Approximately 85 miles southeast of Seattle, Crystal Mountain has been the magnet for Seattleites as well as Washington’s other top urban centers. Washington’s largest ski resort, Crystal offers 2,600 acres with 2,400 vertical feet and eighty-five runs.

DINING + DRINKING: Because Crystal is on the relatively remote edge of Mt. Rainier National Forest, most consumption is done on the mountain itself. Crystal’s restaurants channel the great vibes for après ski eat and drink. Fireside Cantina at the base and Summit House Restaurant at the top of the gondola combine views, brews and amusebouche for your dining experience.

Crystal Mountain is Washington’s largest ski resort at 2,600 acres. (photo: Christy Pelland/ Crystal Mountain)

Methow Valley is home to North America’s largest network of crosscountry ski trials, in a heavenly setting. (photo: Methow Trails)

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METHOW VALLEY One of the planet’s best Nordic ski areas is Methow Valley. The tiny community here maintains more than 130 miles of groomed trails as they connect one small town on the eastern shoulder of the North Cascades to each other.

The string of towns along this part of the valley are Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp.

DINING + DRINKING: The small towns of the Methow Valley have surprisingly good choices for dining—from the deli at the Mazama Store, to creative Asian dishes at Linwood and unforgettable Italian cuisine at Tappi in Twisp, you won’t miss the big-city culinary scene. For old-school burgers and good beer, the Old Schoolhouse Brewery in Winthrop is the place.

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IDAHO

SCHWEITZER In northern Idaho’s Selkirk Range, Schweitzer is truly a hidden gem with 2,900 acres of skiing across ten lifts and an impressive 2,400 feet of vertical.

DINING + DRINKING: A village unto itself, Schweitzer has plenty of reasons to keep you from driving into Sandpoint.

Pastas at Chimney Rock Grill and burgers at Crow’s Bench are just two examples that will keep you in the village and off of the winding road back to Sandpoint.

Schweitzer has the feel of a small European ski resort tucked away in northern Idaho. (photo: Schweitzer)

12 SKI NORTHWEST 2024

TravelBakerCounty.com Photo by: Chelsea Judy

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IDAHO

Brundage Mountain Resort, located 9 miles from McCall, averages 320 inches of snow at its base. (photo: Visit Idaho)

BRUNDAGE MOUNTAIN RESORT Just 9 miles north of McCall, Brundage Mountain Resort has five lifts covering 1,920 acres and a vertical drop of 1,921 feet.

For those who prefer skinnier skis, McCall has fantastic groomed Nordic trails nearby. Little Bear Basin, Ponderosa State Park and Jug Mountain Ranch are just a few areas where novice to novel skiers can kick and glide through amazing outdoor scenes.

L

C

DINING + DRINKING: Cutwater on Payette Lake for lobster bisque and wine, Rupert’s Restaurant for elk meatloaf and McCall Brewing Company for burgers are a few good options in McCall, a town that has many more to choose from.

SUN VALLEY The birthplace of lift-serve skiing and the nostalgic winter playground of Hollywood’s golden era, Sun Valley has charm, history, people-watching and more than 2,000 skiable

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acres. The main Warm Springs Lodge at Bald Mountain (Sun Valley Resort’s main ski area) was renovated in 2019 after a fire ripped through and gutted it in 2018. Rest assured, the glamor of the original was dutifully restored. The resort has 121 runs,

+

eighteen lifts and 3,400 feet of vertical drop.

DINING + DRINKING: The main street classics (Pioneer Saloon and Sawtooth Club) may be overrun on any given weekend.

Shoot for Despo’s for top-notch

Mexican cuisine and margaritas.

For cocktails, head back to Main Street to either Warfield Distillery & Brewery or to Limelight Hotel, where you can sit indoors or outdoors in a courtyard that overlooks a little park that houses the regional museum.

Project is funded totally or in part, as applicable, by the Okanogan County Hotel/Motel Lodging Tax Fund

LARGEST

CROSS-COUNTRY TRAIL SYSTEM IN NORTH AMERICA + 2 FAMILY-FRIENDLY SKI HILLS

FREE MAPS AND GUIDES!

Call 888.431.3080, Scan the QR Code, or visit OkanoganCountry.com to start planning your adventure today!

MONTANA

Ski like a local at Snowbowl, located just outside of Missoula. (photo: Destination Missoula)

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BIG SKY RESORT

SNOWBOWL

The MOASA (mother of all ski areas) of Montana, Big Sky is where you go when you want a resort where you never have to ski the same run twice in a week.

With more than 300 runs, Big Sky also has a staggering 4,350-foot vertical drop. A short 50 miles southeast of Bozeman, Big Sky has 5,800 acres, or 9 square miles of skiable terrain.

Just 13 miles north of Missoula, Snowbowl is the local resort for Montana’s second-largest city at approximately 75,000. With 2,600 feet of vertical, Snowbowl is second only to Big Sky in a state with dozens of ski areas.

The resort will feel like a steep version of vintage skiing. It has four chairs, thirty-nine runs and nearly 1,000 skiable acres.

DINING + DRINKING: At a resort on the scale of Big Sky, there are many options for dining. Here are a few of our faves: Chet’s Bar & Grill for steak frites; Westward Social for cocktails and comfort food; and Carabiner for soup, salad and duck tacos. The sky’s the limit at Big Sky.

DINING + DRINKING: The two dining areas on the mountain are Double Diamond Cafe for burgers and soup, and The Last Run inside Gelandesprung Lodge for wood-fired pizzas and bloody marys. The retro vibe of Snowbowl will recall your childhood skiing happiness.

SKI NORTHWEST 2024

Montana’s Big Sky Resort near Bozeman is a monster with more than 300 runs. (photo: Big Sky Resort)

WE SEIZE THE (SNOW) DAY

YOU WON’T FIND A MORE INSPIRING MOUNTAIN TOWN THAN MISSOULA, WHERE THREE RIVERS AND SEVEN WILDERNESS AREAS CONVERGE IN THE CULTURAL HUB OF MONTANA. The allure is immeasurable, with outdoor access at every corner and a culinary scene that rivals big cities. This vibrant community is bliss for fresh air enthusiasts, creative souls, and anyone who enjoys a good beer alongside a great meal. Missoula doesn’t just feed the soul, it satisfies the senses. Book your stay and plan your getaway to Missoula.

AT  SKIING SNOWBOWL

BOOK HERE

Travel Safely. Explore Responsibly.

Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1889 for more information.

CANADA

FERNIE ALPINE RESORT Located 242 miles northeast of Spokane in the Lizard Range of the Canadian Rockies, Fernie is renowned for its huge annual snowfall that averages 30 feet.

Unlike many of our featured ski areas, Fernie is the complete village resort with ski services, lodging, dining, bars and a grocery store. The lift-service alpine area has 2,500 skiable acres, with 3,550 vertical feet, 145 runs, ten lifts and a few restaurants on the mountain. Fernie also offers spectacular cat ski options for more advanced skiers who crave deep powder.

For XC skiers, the Fernie Nordic Society manages a few

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SKI NORTHWEST 2024

cross-country ski areas nearby including the Elk Valley Nordic Centre just 5 kilometers back toward town. If you plan ahead for a special Nordic ski trip, book the snowcat up to Island Lake Lodge for 25 kilometers of skinny skiing, a spa and gourmet lunch package.

DINING + DRINKING: Check out Cirque Restaurant and Bar, with surf and turf plus a Parisian gnocchi dish on the menu. Its wine list is dominated by French reds and British Columbia whites. Legends Mountain Eatery has two kinds of poutine on its menu, plus burgers and sandwiches, beer and wine. Between these two venues, there’s little need to forage further.

FROM TOP Fernie is a stunner in the Canadian Rockies. The Fernie resort village includes lodging, restaurants and more. (photos: Henry Georgi/Fernie Alpine Resort)

Powder Days. Epic Turns.

Fernie Bound.

Photo: Nick Nault

Over 30 Ft of Snow Annually | 3,550 Vertical Ft | Top Elevation 7,000 Ft | 145 Named Runs 2,500 Acres of Lift Access Terrain & Thousands of Acres for Catskiing

Located in the Rockies of southeast British Columbia, Fernie is known for its deep powder snow and cool local vibe.

Just over a 100 miles north of Whitefish & Kalispell, Montana, Fernie is easy to get to.

With savings of 25-35% thanks to the great exchange rate, a trip north this winter is well worth it!

Fernie Alpine Resort – 4 Nights Ski-in Ski-Out Suite & 4 Days of Skiing from US$208/night/person.* FWA Catskiing – Single Day Snowcat Skiing from US$479/person, early or late season.

Island Lake Catskiing – 2 Nights & 2 Days All-Inclusive from US$2,270/person.* *based on double occupancy

Book your winter trip today! | VisitFernieBC.com | #ferniestoke