1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Destination Resorts Northwest | December/January 2024

TRIP PLANNER: BREMERTON PG. 86

Winter Fat Biking

Dungeness Crab: Tips + Recipes

Get Away to Mount Hood

INSIDE:

RESORT RETREATS AROUND THE PNW

Washington TOP DESTINATIONS FOR SPOTTING WILDLIFE

BEST WASHINGTON ALBUMS OF 2024

1889mag.com $5.95 display until January 31, 2025

LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

WASHINGTON

December | January

volume 46

FREE REE TRAVEL GUIDES AVAILABLE Plan an epic adventure! Get info and inspo and book your cozy cabin or resort stay at VisitRainier.com/Itineraries.

2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

From Sea to Table photography by Brooke Fitts A chef and fisherman offer their tips for finding the best Dungeness crab and how to prepare it in Farm to Table. Plus: Dungeness crab recipes to try at home! (pg. 28)

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

3

Stephen Matera

Spot red foxes and more on San Juan Island.

FEATURES DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024 • volume 46

62 The Grizzly Returns Federal agencies are bringing back the bears known as “alpine gardeners” to the North Cascades— slowly and over time. written by Lauren Kramer

68 The Columbia River Take a visual journey through the Columbia Basin via the photographs of David Moskowitz. written by Kerry Newberry

52 Washington’s Best Wildlife Hot Spots Four of the top spots across the state to spy whales, black bears, birds, Roosevelt elk and more. written by Ryn Pfeuffer

4

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Skamania.com • VisitStevensonWA.com

DEPARTMENTS Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024 • volume 46

LIVE

80

16 SAY WA?

Leavenworth Winter Karneval, Lake Chelan Winterfest, Seattle Christmas Market.

24 FOOD + DRINK

Big Time Brewery’s secret to longevity.

28 FARM TO TABLE

Dungeness crab on Whidbey Island.

34 HOME + DESIGN

A home in the trees by the late architect Milton Stricker.

40 MIND + BODY

Lifelong marathoner Bruce Skinner at 76.

27

78

THINK 44 STARTUP

Aditi Sinha finds a fashion niche in pockets.

46 MY WORKSPACE

Foraging for healing mushrooms with Steven Cabrera.

50 GAME CHANGER

Peace Peloton, cycling for racial equality.

EXPLORE 78 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Ye Olde Curiosity Shop on Seattle’s Pier 54.

80 ADVENTURE Claire Seaman

Morgen Schuler

Fat tire biking through beautiful places in winter.

84 LODGING

Mountain Springs Lodge, Leavenworth.

86 TRIP PLANNER

Bremerton, Kitsap Peninsula.

12 Editor’s Letter 13 1889 Online 94 Map of Washington 96 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Stephen Matera Mount Rainier National Park (see “Into the Wild,” pg. 52)

6

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

92 NW DESTINATION Mount Hood, Oregon.

COME AS YOU ARE In Lincoln City, you don’t need to change a thing– just bring yourself. Here, the coast welcomes everyone, whether you’re chasing the magic of the tides, seeking quiet moments by the fire, or savoring fresh seafood with your toes in the sand. Embrace the quirky, the cozy, and the carefree.

Because here, you can be you.

Learn more at ExploreLincolnCity.com

CONTRIBUTORS

MORGEN SCHULER Photographer Travel Spotlight

RACHEL GALLAHER Writer Startup

RYN PFEUFFER Writer Into the Wild

BILL PURCELL Photographer Mind + Body

“Ye Olde Curiosity Shop is a mainstay of the Seattle waterfront, and walking in gave me a rush of nostalgia. I’d been a handful of times with visiting friends and family to their delight. The sheer volume of trinkets, cultural crafts and quirky items was almost overwhelming. It was tough to choose what to photograph, so I captured everything that grabbed my attention. Even more difficult was choosing which photos to send in for the article.” (pg. 78)

“As someone who loves fashion, I was excited to learn about the Point of View label and its founder, Aditi Sinha. She showed such a passion for her mission to eradicate ‘pocket inequality’ (only 5 percent of women’s pockets can fit a smartphone, compared to 85 percent of men’s) that it reinforced the idea that with a little grit and determination, anyone who sees a problem has the ability to solve it.” (pg. 44)

“Washington is a wildlife lover’s paradise, with diverse habitats ranging from rugged coastlines to towering mountains. In just one weekend, you could spot orcas and Steller sea lions in the Salish Sea or encounter elk near Mount Rainier or Mount St. Helens. Being in nature is my happy place, and it’s a privilege to share space with so many magnificent creatures—big, small, finned and four-legged.” (pg. 52)

“I always look forward to photographing people doing what they love, as their passion is always contagious. Trying to keep up with Bruce on the trail was no different. His excitement for running and being out on the trail was inspiring. And, while I can’t say I’m ready to lace up my shoes to run a marathon, I did enjoy his enthusiasm and longtime commitment to the sport.” (pg. 40)

Rachel Gallaher is a freelance writer and editor living in Seattle.

Her work has appeared in GRAY, Dwell, Architectural Digest, The Seattle Times and Azure, among other publications.

Ryn Pfeuffer is a freelance lifestyle writer whose work has appeared in Kinkly, Men’s Health, Playboy, WIRED and The Washington Post over the past two decades. She lives in Seattle with her partner and rescue dog.

Bill Purcell is a freelance commercial and editorial photographer specializing in environmental portraits and architectural photography.

He lives in Olympia and has a propensity for getting lost.

Morgen Schuler is a photographer based out of Seattle. From music photography with KEXP to editorial work with 1889, these fantastic experiences keep her excited and eager for more.

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

RAIN, RAIN, COME AND PLAY.

Next Level Pinball Museum

FIND THE FUN

etvor.com/cozy37

Don’t let the rainy season get you down. Level up at one of our many arcades, escape rooms or entertainment centers. Find the fun in Tualatin Valley, just west of Portland, and get your game on this winter.

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG/COZY

WCVA_1889_WA_Main_Dec_Jan_2025.indd 1

11/4/24 2:24 PM

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Rachel Gallaher, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Ben Salmon, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jackie Dodd, Brooke Fitts, Gemina Garland-Lewis, Peter Mahar, Stephen Matera, Jim Meyers, Bill Purcell, Morgen Schuler, Rafael Soldi, Lisette Wolter-McKinley

Mail

Headquarters

70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702

592 N. Sisters Park Ct. Suite B Sisters, OR 97759

www.1889mag.com/subscribe @1889washington

All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Enjoy Olympic Peninsula • Explore • Relax

• Reconnect

Enjoy iet u Q e th n Seaso

A Bounty of Experiences and miles of memories await on the Olympic Peninsula.

From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com

FROM THE

EDITOR

HAPPY HOLIDAYS! We’ve come through a tough year of wildfires—now it’s time to literally chill out and explore Washington’s best season: winter. As of this writing, snow was falling in the Cascades as La Niña lay down her winter blanket.

In this issue, we dive into a few of the state’s bests—best wildlife viewing retreats, best places for fat tire biking on groomed trails, best local albums of the year and best Ursus comebacks— the grizzly.

At some point in the not-too-distant future, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service will begin working with other wildlife and park agencies to slowly reintroduce the species known as “alpine gardeners” in the North Cascades National Park.

This follows a vote of Washingtonians in 2015 that overwhelmingly supported the reintroduction of the Grizzly in Washington state. Turn to page 62 to learn more about how this is going to happen and how you have a better chance of being struck by lightning than being attacked by a grizzly bear.

For non-grizzly wildlife viewing spots, flip to page 52, where we cover a lot of ground in planning the best opportunities for you and your

12 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

family to see whales, rare birds, Roosevelt elk and other wildlife. We also offer our ideas on where to stay and dine while you’re there.

One winter sport that can appear to be grisly to those who have never tried it on groomed winter trails is fat tire biking. Once the oddball of the winter ball, it is now mainstream among outdoor lovers and well catered in certain parts of the state. Turn to Adventure on page 80 to find out where to go for spectacular scenery and a hale winter workout.

Every outing deserves its own soundtrack.

There is no shortage of talent among Washington musicians. From Bellingham to Spokane, underground electronics and that singer-songwriter folk, you’ll find some banger local tunes for all of your 2025 outings in our review of the top albums of 2024 on page 18.

If your travels find you in Seattle over the holidays, be sure to stop in the University District’s landmark Big Time Brewery, where the food is extraordinary, the beer well crafted and the atmosphere time tested and familiar. Before you go, read our Beervana review, and you’ll know why this place is one of the best. Cheers!

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here! www.1889mag. com/in-focus photo by Jeff Liska The sun rises over Liberty Bay in Poulsbo on a cold January morning.

GIFT WASHINGTON 1889 Washington’s Magazine celebrates all things Washington, from its incredible destinations and colorful personalities to its rich history and local food and drink. Gift a subscription to family and friends this holiday season, and share the state you love! www.1889mag.com/gift

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find jewelry, specialty foods and more.

Or show your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1889mag.com/shop 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

13

Bill Purcell

SAY WA? 16 FOOD + DRINK 24 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 40

pg. 40 More than forty-five years after his first marathon, Bruce Skinner continues to compete in distance races.

DITCH THE KEYS, EMBRACE THE JOURNEY Discover Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory Car-Free

Forget the hassle of traffic and parking. Your next vacation can be a breath of fresh air in Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory. Just outside bustling Portland, this destination offers outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers the opportunity for a car-free adventure.

Start your journey by taking Amtrak to Portland and hopping on the MAX Green Line to Clackamas Town Center. The Monarch Hotel’s shuttle will whisk you away to your base camp. This hotel offers traditional amenities and a captivating speakeasy, The Underground, for a unique experience.

Before heading out, stop by the REI Re/Supply Clackamas store for tax-free outdoor gear. Then, board the Sandy Area Metro (SAM) to Sandy, the adventure hub. Explore the area’s history at the Sandy Historical Museum before catching the Mt. Hood Express to one of the incredible ski resorts on Mt. Hood.

Try a guided snowshoe tour with Mt. Hood Outfitters

Mt. Hood Skibowl features the most black diamond runs in the state and also has 34 fully lit runs, making it the largest night ski area in the U.S. Timberline Lodge & Ski Area boasts the Pacific Northwest’s largest vertical terrain and is the only ski-in, ski-out lodging in Oregon.

Mt. Hood Outfitters offers guided snowshoeing, nordic skiing and snowmobile tours. And after your adventure, refuel at one of the many Government Camp dining options, from Charlie’s Mountain View to Mt. Hood Brewing Company. And don’t miss the Huckleberry Inn for a stack of delicious huckleberry pancakes.

View of Mt. Hood from Mt. Hood Skibowl

By leaving your car behind, you can experience winter on Mt. Hood sustainably and stress-free. So, grab your gear, lace up your hiking boots and embark on a carfree adventure.

SCAN TO PLAN YOUR TRIP TODAY!

omht.us/car-free

Huckleberry pancakes offer a taste of Mt. Hood

say wa?

ca mark le you nd r ar

Tidbits + To-dos written by Lauren Kramer Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce

Leavenworth’s Winter Karneval Leavenworth’s Village of Lights: Winter Karneval, held weekends in January, pays tribute to the German tradition of Fasching, a celebration of merriment dating back to the thirteenth century.

It includes live ice carving, fireworks, performances and a Fasching pub crawl, to the backdrop of the snowcapped mountains.

Nixon Art Glass

Lake Chelan Chamber of Commerce

www.leavenworth.org/ winterkarneval

ur r yo k da ar m len

ca

Lake Chelan Winterfest

Lake Chelan hosts its Winterfest on January 17-26, a ten-day festival where visitors will enjoy ice sculptures, fireworks shows, live music, an ice bar, a snow slide and more. The events, some family friendly and some geared toward adults, take place in downtown Chelan and Manson. www.lakechelan.com/winterfest

16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Nixon Art Glass The San Juan Sunset servingware collection from Nixon Art Glass on San Juan Island is composed of fused glass in transparent colors of sky blue, navy blue and red, with a centerpiece of a shimmering gold-colored dichroic glass.

If you’re wanting to evoke the essence of an island sunset even in the dark of winter, this one’s for you! www.nixonartglass.com/collections/san-juan-sunset-collection

Nuu-Muu

say wa?

Gretchen Leggitt’s Hydrascape Infinity Stickers

If there’s a quintessential Pacific Northwest dress, it’s NuuMuu, poly-spandex, tunic-style dresses that can be dressed up or down, used for athletics or layered for winter wear.

These Bellingham-made garments come in gorgeous, bright fabrics and are loved for their durability and versatility.

It’s not often you’ll find an artists’ work on the cover of laptop computers, drinking flasks, skis and snowboards, but Gretchen Leggitt’s work is an exception. Her striking depictions of the Pacific Northwest mountains, salmon and national parks are available as hydrascape infinity stickers in different sizes, and they’re so popular that her artwork is easily recognized, achieving a visibility most artists can only dream of.

www.nuu-muu.com

www.gretchenleggitt.com

Nuu-Muu

ur yo rk DAR a m EN

L

Braden Heil/Seattle Christmas Market

CA

Seattle Christmas Market The Seattle Christmas Market will run through December 24 at Seattle Center for its second consecutive year. The event will include daily musical entertainment, a double-decker carousel with unlimited free rides and craft, food and drink vendors. Some 80+ wooden huts will feature curated European and locally made crafts, and on the Winterdeck, look out for Santa’s Snow Globe and have your camera ready for pics. www.seattlechristmasmarket.com

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

17

say wa?

The 24 Best

WASHINGTON ALBUMS OF 2024 written by Ben Salmon

somesurprises

FROM BELLINGHAM to the Tri-Cities, Olympia to Spokane and, of course, Seattle, musicians from Washington created incredible sounds in 2024. Here are the twenty-four best albums released by artists across the state this year.

18

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

somesurprises | Perseids

say wa?

somesurprises Perseids

Hayes Noble | As It Was, As We Were

Rose Noble

Three decades ago, Seattle’s best bands were ear-splitting rockers fronted by glowering white dudes. Today, the city’s finest is somesurprises, an absolutely enchanting dream-pop band led by Egyptian/English-American songwriter and guitarist Natasha El-Sergany. The group’s first album in five years, Perseids is a glistening sonic tractor beam built from brilliant guitars, droning synthesizers, hypnotizing rhythms and blissful melodies that will carry you up, up and away to another, more wondrous universe where shoegaze and Stereolab rule the cosmic radio waves.

Marina Albero A Nomad of Sound Pianist Marina Albero has lived in Seattle for a decade, but she was born in Spain, where she grew up on stage as part of a very musical family. You can hear those roots—and the results of her voracious studies since—on A Nomad of Sound, a forty-five-minute set Albero wrote and recorded in America’s own musical melting pot, New Orleans. Here, jazz is a big tent, and with the help of highly skilled collaborators, she makes room for flamenco and Latin music, pop, classical, blues and beyond.

Greg Cypher Hello, I Must Be Going Hip-hop continues to mutate and splinter at warp speed, which only serves to set throwback MCs such as Greg Cypher apart from the crowd. Inspired by overcast skies, late-night smoke sessions and West Coast rap giants like The Pharcyde, Hello, I Must Be Going is a master class in the enduring power of sumptuous, soulful beats, in this case provided by local production wizards like Blu, YaH-Ra, AJ Suede and Onry Ozzborn. At the center of this hazy, head-nodding delight is Cypher, whose thoughtful rhymes and sturdy flow feel like hip-hop at its finest.

Hayes Noble As It Was, As We Were Seattle is famous for its loud guitar-rock bands, but Spokane is the home of Hayes Noble, a 19-year-old singer and songwriter who made one of the best guitar-rock albums of 2024—not just in Washington, but anywhere. No hyperbole: As It Was, As We Were is a revelation, raising the curtain on a guy blessed with the skills and the vision to conjure up Sonic Youth’s divine dissonance, Superchunk’s punky melodicism and Dinosaur Jr.’s towering wall of sound. Turn it on, crank it up and prepare to be wowed.

Kendl Winter Banjo Mantras In 2022, Olympia-based musician Kendl Winter— who is also half of the long-running Americana duo The Lowest Pair—received a gorgeous open-back banjo built by the renowned luthier William Seeders, which led her to dive deep into the various tunings and techniques of the distinctively percussive clawhammer playing style. She posted her daily explorations to social media, and eventually turned them into

Banjo Mantras, a collection of fourteen minimalist tunes that are enticingly meditative, effortlessly melodic and endlessly easy on the ear. Put this one on when the world becomes too much to bear.

Black Ends Psychotic Spew Rock bands often struggle to assign themselves a descriptive genre tag, falling prey to the trap of trying to incorporate their many influences into one overhyphenated mess. Black Ends, on the other hand, nailed it: gunk pop. That’s what this beloved Seattle trio calls its craggy amalgam of post-punk, garage rock and avant grunge—a bittersweet blend that would sit well with the city’s famed alt-godfathers. Black Ends have been a promising (and prominent) force on the local scene for years, and their debut full-length delivers on that promise with gusto.

J.R.C.G. Grim Iconic … (Sadistic Mantra) For the past decade or so, Justin R. Cruz Gallego has been an

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

say wa?

Spine Readers Lab Results

J.R.C.G. | Grim Iconic … (Sadistic Mantra)

Anthony Beauchemin

In late 2023, Bellingham’s Spine Readers were in the process of rolling out pre-release singles for their new album when tragedy struck—singer, songwriter and creative whirlwind Sean Meyer passed away after a brief battle with cancer. Lab Results, then, is the band’s final work, and it’s a fitting tribute to Meyer’s impressive knack for writing and recording electrified guitar music from across the stylistic spectrum.

Here, his band explores sparkling power-pop, nervy art-punk, galloping altrock and points in between, sounding right at home the whole time. Meyer was a major talent; he will be missed.

Star Anna Love & Sex & Fear of Death

Bog Ore | Bog Ore Chinese American Bear | Wah!!!

D’Vonne Lewis’ Limited Edition | Shapeshifter Enumclaw | Home In Another Life

Robin Holcomb One Way or Another, Vol. 2

Eugenie Jones | The Originals I Am So High | Dance With Me Kian Dye | Kian Dye Kiki Valera y su Son Cubano | Vacilón Santiaguero Mount Eerie | Night Palace Nobi | IBAST Smoker Dad | Hot Dog Highway TeZATalks | Black Girl American Horror Story Various artists | From Far It All Seems Small Willdabeast | Beneath The Surface

A legend living unassumingly among us, Robin Holcomb is perhaps best known for her presence within New York City’s vaunted downtown scene, where she worked with experimental luminaries like John Zorn, Bill Frisell and her partner, Wayne Horvitz. After a hiatus to focus on her family and her garden, One Way or Another is her second volume of sublime songs for solo piano and voice. Stripped down to these simple arrangements, the album is an intimate and moving reminder of why the longtime Seattle resident is a truly underappreciated giant of American music.

20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Seattle mainstay Star Anna has always skillfully blurred the lines between pop, indie rock and Americana music, never more so than on her latest full-length, aptly titled Love & Sex & Fear of Death. As you can probably guess, she spends its ten tracks ruminating on those and other very human topics, her expressive alto finding a sweet spot against her band’s dusky, well-crafted roots-pop.

Musically speaking, Star Anna has grown up under the watchful eye of her hometown—here, she sounds like a powerful artist in full bloom.

Ernie Sapiro

14 MORE

ALBUMS WORTH HEARING

integral figure in the Pacific Northwest underground, most notably as part of the uncompromising noisepunk band Dreamdecay. His second album under the name J.R.C.G. finds the Tacoma-based artist pushing and pulling on boundaries, retaining the gloom and grit for which he is known but also elevating his songs with woozy electronics, chest-pounding rhythms and elements of Latin music.

Gallego is relentlessly restless, and Grim Iconic reflects him perfectly.

Robin Holcomb | One Way or Another, Vol. 2

CURIOUS.

BE

Befriend Befriendaabutterfly, butterfly,walk walkwith withdinosaurs, dinosaurs, or orget getthe theinside-out inside-outexperience experienceat atour our newest newestexhibit, exhibit,Brainy BrainyBodies, Bodies,all allonly onlyat at Seattle’s Seattle’siconic iconicPacific PacificScience ScienceCenter.

Center.

Get Get your your tickets tickets at at pacsci.org pacsci.org 200 2002nd 2ndAve AveN, N,Seattle, Seattle,WA WA

say wa?

Bibliophile

Raised in a Forest Service cabin, Brenda Peterson observes what wildlife can tell us about our own lives.

Wild Mentors A wilderness-raised author reveals how anyone can have wild animals guide their modern lives interview by Cathy Carroll

SEATTLE’S BRENDA PETERSON essentially was raised as a wild animal—in a remote Forest Service lookout cabin surrounded by more animals than people. In her latest book, Wild Chorus, she writes, “I fully expected to grow up to show off the most luxurious velvet antlers, to howl harmoniously as a wolf, to steal unseen like a fox through the seemingly endless old-growth forest.”

This award-winning author draws on her lifelong relationship with animals to explore the wisdom humans can glean from them.

She details how wild animals can become our guides and fellow travelers, helping us navigate the stresses of daily life and a rapidly changing planet.

22

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Describe one of your most powerful experiences of connection with wild animals.

At Wolf Haven International Sanctuary in Tenino, I met a Mexican gray wolf family who had been chosen to return to the wild. Hopa, the matriarch, and her mate, Brother, and their three juvenile pups denned up in their kennels for their long journey to Mexico, where wolves are almost extinct. Hopa was hypervigilant, ears perked to each strange sound, her flanks trembling. But she was focused—she had a family to protect from whatever was being asked of her—nothing less than the recovery and resurrection of an entire species. Her unblinking, amber eyes reflected fear and courage.

In both humans’ and wolves’ eyes, you can see the heartbeat.

No one knew Hopa was pregnant with five more pups.

When the family was finally released in a snowy Mexican forest, they flourished. Hopa’s eyes still hold me. There is nothing tame in a wolf’s gaze—direct, intelligent and eerily familiar. They connect, their close-knit social lives are so like ours. In wolves’ eyes we see rich and vivid emotional lives that mirror ours.

Humans have lived with Canis lupus since prehistory, and some early wolves even agreed to be domesticated to teach us to hunt, to protect. The evolutionary wolf-human bond endures all over the world, and wolves are returning to their natural habitat, helping us restore damaged ecosystems. Like Hopa, humans can learn that the bravest are those who feel fear, but still do what is asked of them.

Why is it important for people to look beyond their pets

to glean the wisdom of wild animals?

Pets are our daily companions; wild animals are our neighbors.

Domestic and wild animals offer us solace and kinship. They counter what Loren Eiseley called our “long loneliness,” as a species.

Reaching out beyond our pets to include wild animals means that we can learn even more about ourselves and our natural world.

Understanding those with four legs, fur, wings, antennae, claws, tails and fins requires humility, imagination and curiosity.

Embracing other species widens our humanity. These relationships remind us we are not here alone—lonely. We never have been and never will be.

How can urban dwellers and those who visit wild areas explore how wild animals can help us?

Wild animals teach us different survival skills. Animals don’t deny climate change; they must adapt, the way grizzly bears time their hibernations to shorter seasons or whales and caribou alter migrations. Urban dwellers who have access to large green spaces and other animals have richer and less stressful lives.

For example, ecosystems rich in birdsong are also most beneficial to humans. Research shows that listening to birds singing improves our mental health by calming frayed nerves, reducing anxiety and depression. Healthy soundscapes increase our human health. To survive, we must listen and learn from other animals— reclaim the animals within us and learn from these masters of their own habitats how better to conserve and thrive with nature. Not dominion, harmony. Not separation, animal alliances.

food + drink

AT LEFT Big Time Brewery, a fixture of the University District since 1988. ABOVE Owner Rick McLaughlin started as a barback and steadfastly worked his way into ownership.

Beervana

Long Time, Big Time At home in Seattle since 1988, Washington’s oldest brewery is your next beer destination written and photographed by Jackie Dodd BIG TIME BREWERY, now officially Washington’s oldest independently owned brewery, quietly claimed this title in 2022 after longtime titleholder Hale’s Ales closed its doors. Unlike other iconic names that have either closed or sold to big beer, Big Time has remained a fixture in the University District of Seattle since it opened in 1988, where it made history as the city’s first post-Prohibition brewpub. For many, it’s surprising that Big Time isn’t top of mind when people discuss heritage breweries in the Pacific Northwest—a region synonymous with the craft beer movement.

Rick McLaughlin, the current owner, started with Big Time as a young barback. Over time, he worked his way up and eventually bought the business from founder Reid Martin. McLaughlin’s journey with Big Time is unique; he didn’t inherit it or buy it as an investment but rather saw it as his own passion project. “I just kept my head down and kept working,” he said, modestly brushing off questions about the brewery’s legacy. His focus has always been on community rather than personal notoriety.

McLaughlin chooses to highlight initiatives he’s spearheaded to help the community and local small businesses. When he speaks about the pandemic, he doesn’t dwell on the personal savings he poured into 24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

ensuring Big Time survived and his staff was compensated, but he does talk about the 119 regulars he had to say goodbye to when they could no longer afford to live in the neighborhood. He won’t tell you that he ensures every employee is paid at least $30 an hour, but he will talk about the people who sit at the bar every week for trivia—a night he hosts himself with questions he writes.

Beyond the community focus, Big Time has earned serious respect for its craft. With a rotating selection of beers, they cater to both casual drinkers and serious beer aficionados. One of their legendary offerings is Old Wooly Barleywine, Seattle’s oldest annual bottle releases.

This tradition began in 1990 and has become a seasonal favorite. The Old Wooly release was the first of its kind in Seattle, symbolizing the area’s burgeoning craft beer scene in the early days.

The food program at Big Time is just as intentional. Pub favorites like tacos and chicken wings are carefully elevated. The ropa vieja tacos, in particular, stand out for their flavorful, slow-cooked filling, house-made sauce, and tortillas, while the wings, tossed in a housemade spicy sauce, manage to stay remarkably crispy. McLaughlin emphasizes fresh, made-from-scratch ingredients, from sauces to dressings, and this focus on quality has made Big Time more than just a beer destination—it’s a spot for locals who know they’ll get a consistently great meal with their pint.

Despite the brewery’s deep roots and impressive longevity, Big Time isn’t interested in chasing trends or large-scale distribution. McLaughlin’s humility and dedication are part of what makes the place feel so welcoming. The atmosphere is lively yet relaxed, with university staff, neighborhood locals and beer enthusiasts filling the space. Whether you’re drawn by the beer, the food or the company, Big Time remains a true Seattle institution, driven by a commitment to quality and community. In a city where change is constant, Big Time’s resilience is a testament to its enduring appeal.

If you haven’t been to Big Time, now’s the perfect time to see why it holds a special place in Seattle’s beer history. Raise a glass to its legacy, support a locally owned treasure and, of course, don’t forget to order the tacos.

Like many things on its menu, the slow-cooked ropa vieja tacos are made from scratch at Big Time Brewery.

Photo: Robyn Porter

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Knee High Stocking Co. / Capitol Hill, SEATTLE

Peppered Harvest FOR COCKTAIL • 1½ ounces cucumber/rosemaryinfused gin • ½ ounce absinthe • ¾ ounce lime juice • ½ ounce simple syrup • 1 heavy dash of house-made black peppercorn tincture (see recipe) • 2 dashes of saline (see recipe) • 1 ounce tonic water

• Cucumber ribbons, for garnish • Fresh-cracked black pepper, for garnish FOR BLACK PEPPERCORN TINCTURE • 1 cup black peppercorns • 4 cups Everclear FOR SALINE • 1 ounce sea salt • 4 ounces hot water

FOR BLACK PEPPERCORN TINCTURE Combine, and let sit for at least 2-4 weeks.

(The mixture is shelf stable.)

FOR SALINE Stir to combine until salt is fully dissolved. Let cool, and pour into a dropper bottle for usage.

FOR COCKTAIL Add cucumber/rosemary-infused gin, absinthe, lime juice, simple syrup, black peppercorn tincture and saline to a cocktail shaker.

Shake, and strain into a rocks glass Add a splash of tonic water (about 1 ounce). Add ice, and garnish with cucumber ribbons and fresh-cracked black pepper.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

25

Killian Korn

food + drink

CRAVINGS DONUTS Orchard House Donuts in Twisp sells out by 11 a.m., sometimes earlier. The reason?

These are the most interesting and delicious donuts you’ll ever come across, and everyone in the Methow Valley knows it. The business that started as a pop-up is now open Fridays through Sundays at TwispWorks, and the flavors, which change each week, are a far cry from ordinary and never disappoint. @orchardhouse.donuts on Instagram

WAFFLES Elevate your waffle experience at Syrup Trap in Vancouver, where sweet and savory liège waffles are served with coffee. The Audrey waffle with goat cheese, roasted hazelnuts and honey is a popular choice, while the Second Breakfast combines prosciutto ham, brie and organic pear.

The second-generation family business Killian Korn was born and raised in Othello.

Gastronomy

Killian Korn written by Lauren Kramer BACK IN THE 1980s, Donna Killian had a Christmas tradition of gifting homemade vanilla-glazed popcorn with almonds, pecans and shaved coconut to her neighbors. That gift was so popular that people urged her to make more and sell it. The mom of eleven agreed, making a few more batches and selling them at farmers markets in and around Othello.

As demand grew, the family converted their garage into a small factory and put their kids to work. “I was 8 years old when Killian Korn got started, and me and my two brothers would make popcorn before and after school,” said Elden Killian, who now co-owns the business with six of his siblings.

The hobby that began in Donna Killian’s kitchen is now sold and shipped throughout the state. Today, its glaze selection has expanded to include caramel corn, honey cashew, huckleberry, hot cinnamon, black licorice, caramel apple and jalapeño, among others. Killian’s sister Shanna Stakkeland oversees production, and all seven siblings tinker with flavor development. The family still uses the magic mushroom popcorn that Donna favored in her original recipe, a domestically grown corn that holds up well when it is caramelized.

The factory, no longer a converted garage, is still located in Othello and operates year-round, churning out a much-loved specialty product. “We grew up making popcorn with my dad, and it was a great source of family time for us,” Elden reflected. “My mom is really proud to have started this tradition and to have her children lead it into the next generation.” www.killiankorn.com

26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

11104 MAIN ST., SUITE 111 VANCOUVER www.syruptrapwaffles.com

PEANUT BUTTER If you love peanut butter, you need to try the honey-roasted peanut butter made by Bellewood Farms in Lynden. This longtime favorite, ground and roasted on-site, puts any store-bought PB in the shade. Bellewood is also known for its apple butter, apple chips and caramel dip, sweet treats that will brighten the darkest winter day.

6140 GUIDE MERIDIAN ROAD LYNDEN www.bellewoodfarms.com

SHRUBS For a great shrub, you need great ingredients. That’s where Wild Heart Sipping Vinegar enters the scene. Made in Tenino, these hand-crafted, cold-aged vinegars come in a range of innovative flavors including blueberry thyme, mango orange chili pepper, lemon mint and pear cardamom. They are well suited for use in cocktails, as a mixer with sparkling water or in sauces and vinaigrettes.

842 WRIGHT ROAD SE TENINO www.wildheartsippingvinegar.com

BEST PLACES FOR

BREAD If you’re looking for hearty and wholesome bread, don’t miss Raven Bakery in Bellingham. Its whole-grain, sourdough breads and pastries are made with locally milled flour and locally sourced eggs, nuts, honey and produce.

Its tasty bread menu includes seedy buckwheat, mountain rye, focaccia and scones, and all local bread deliveries are done by bicycle, regardless of the weather.

PANADERIA AGUILILLA BAKERY Panaderia Aguililla Bakery in Union Gap has been serving the Yakima Valley with authentic Michoacán-style pastries since 1999, when brothers Eliezer and Rodrigo Alcazar opened their store. Specialties include cemas (sweet bread) and jalapeño cream cheese bread, but colorful conchas, panqué, bolillos and muffins are other staples at this bakery.

Wildflour

205 PROSPECT ST. BELLINGHAM www.ravenbreads.com

Claire Seaman

Wildflour

RAVEN BAKERY

Dishes at Wildflour at the Kahler Mountain Club in Leavenworth are handmade delights—from lamb chops to pasta and crème brûlée.

Dining

Wildflour written by Lauren Kramer

You know you’ve hit a hot spot when a bakery has a line out the door. That’s Left Bank Pastry in Olympia, whose French pastries, including croissants, quiches, macarons and kouignamann, are highly coveted. Look out for croissants with flavors of chocolate, blueberry, raspberry, apricot and cinnamon and many other crispy-soft delicacies.

GOLF CLUB restaurants have a tendency to be distinctly underwhelming, but Wildflour at the Kahler Mountain Club in Leavenworth is a notable exception.

This octagonal-shaped restaurant specializes in house-made pasta, but its broad menu contains a range of dishes that impress with their sophisticated composition and incredible flavor profiles. Whether you’re in the mood for pierogies and pesto or foie gras and tenderloin, Wildflour’s chefs Duncan Hoaglan and Ryan Kowalewski reveal their talent through exceptional local sourcing and a range of dishes that had us quite literally licking the plate clean.

There are many highlights to a meal at Wildflour, just one of which is the riveting mountain view from the windows. Another is the roasted mushroom appetizer ($18), a seasonal dish featuring locally farmed and foraged chanterelles, porcinis, shitakes and crimini mushrooms, sautéed to perfection in a thyme cream sauce. The house-made pasta, including bronze, die-pressed bucatini, is a truly outstanding tribute to the Italian art of pasta-making. For entrées, we selected the fried West Coast lingcod ($38), served on a bed of ratatouille-style vegetables in a madras curry sauce, with rice pilaf and roasted pineapple. Portion sizes are generous at Wildflour, and this tangy, rich, well-rounded dish ticked all the boxes. The halibut ($42), pan-seared and served with roasted vegetables and spaghetti in a lemon pesto sauce, was a feast of a dish that speaks to Hoaglan’s ability to transform the ordinary into the exceptional.

We were ready to be rolled out of the dining room by the time the dessert arrived: flourless chocolate cake with ice cream and blueberries, and crème brûlée infused with raspberry and lavender. Despite well-sated appetites, we couldn’t resist either of these rich treats, which were, like all the dishes we had sampled, undeniably masterful. Abandon all previously conceived ideas of gold club meals when you enter Wildflour, and brace yourself for a memorable culinary treat.

1941 4TH AVE. E. OLYMPIA www.leftbankpastry.com

20700 CLUB HOUSE DRIVE LEAVENWORTH www.wildflourleavenworth.com

3206 MAIN ST. UNION GAP www.facebook.com/panaderiaaguililla

MAZAMA STORE For legendary sea salt baguettes and bagels, head to the Mazama Store in Mazama. The bakery, which uses Bluebird grains in many of its breads, offers a rotating weekly schedule of baked goods that includes cracked emmer, rosemary olive, sprouted einka, sprouted rye and focaccia.

50 LOST RIVER ROAD MAZAMA www.themazamastore.com

LEFT BANK PASTRY

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27

farm to table

Farm to Table

Dungeness Crab Delights Sweet, briny and delicate, the star of the Pacific is perfect in many settings and dishes written by Corinne Whiting

28 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Brooke Fitts

ANYONE WHO’S DINED in the Pacific Northwest knows the splendor of dishes showcasing fresh-from-the-sea Dungeness crab. Thomas Litrenta, chef and co-owner of Whidbey Island’s Chef in the Black Bandana with his wife, Crystal Madrigal, describes the taste as somewhat sweet with a hint of salt water. “There is no part of Dungeness that is not mouth-wateringly delicious,” he said. “The body being moist and buttery, while the legs are firm and hearty. The walking legs make for a great utensil to pick out every inch of meat!”

Andrew Hosmer, co-founder of Whidbey Island Seafood Company, finds this “true delicacy of the Pacific Northwest and Southeast Alaska” to be slightly sweet and briny with a delicate, almost buttery texture. “The meat is firm and flakes beautifully,” he said. “What makes our crab so special is the environment it comes from,” referencing the cold, clean waters that contribute to their products’ taste and quality.

Experience the season at Rockaway Beach on the north Oregon Coast! Stroll our seven miles of sandy beach, find unique gifts, grab a festive treat, or ride the Candy Cane Express. It’s the perfect place to make new memories and traditions.

Crabbing remains one of Washington’s most popular recreational fisheries. Every year, crabbers here catch more than 1.5 million pounds of the hard-shelled crustacean using pots, ring nets and bare hands (if you’re a wade or dive fisher).

Chef in the Black Bandana is a small island business that offers five generations of Southern Italian cooking methods and recipes. They aim to share their culinary and cultural traditions while serving family recipes stocked with local ingredients.

In terms of sourcing, the team feels fortunate to have a few commercial fishermen on the island from whom they can purchase fresh crab. “These relationships are important because they allow us to work with the fishermen directly for the freshest crab possible,” Litrenta said.

Litrenta thinks the colder Washington waters give the meat a richer and sweeter taste than those found farther south. Personally, he likes to take time to go out and harvest them themselves.

“Living on Whidbey Island, we are fortunate to have many inlets to resource,” he said.

The couple prefers winter crab over summer crab, because the colder climate improves their taste. “But I’ll never say no to a summer Dungeness,” Litrenta clarified. “November to January is the prime time, in my opinion. Whidbey Island has two available crab seasons: November to January and July to September.”

When it comes to getting out on the water, there are a few basic rules Litrenta learned growing up, from always returning the females and never poaching other pots, to harvesting the whole crab (and not taking only the claws). Folks also need to make sure crabs are the right size. “When putting back females and ones that are too small, don’t fling them,” he said. “Lower them gently back into the water.” Another prudent tip? Always grab them from the back walking legs, since those claws can really hurt.

In their household, there isn’t an issue with crab storage, as it all gets eaten the day it’s harvested. However, Litrenta advised, it’s always best to buy crabs that have life to them. “Do not choose them if they seem sluggish,” he said. “You want them to have some fight left in them. Store them on their backs with ice on top. Cook them as soon as possible; they are not meant to be out of water very long. Make sure they are properly cleaned, free from gills before cooking.”

If you must store crab, it’s advisable to keep it in a tightly sealed container after it’s been cooked. Then eat the delicacy within two to three days.

Hosmer, who founded his seafood company with brother Adam, recommends finding the best Dungeness crab in fall or winter. The duo grew up on Whidbey, sons of longtime fishing parents with marine biology degrees. “We then became fishermen and learned the ins and outs of the industry and supply chain,” Hosmer explained. “We saw an opportunity to bring the freshest, highestquality seafood directly from the fishermen to people’s homes.”

Today they work closely with sustainable fisheries in Alaska and the Pacific Northwest that adhere to strict guidelines.

The brothers’ dad was deckhand then captain on the fishing vessel they now work on, the F/V Baranof. “Salt was always in the veins,” Hosmer said. “My brother and I grew up on the water, 30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Chef in the Black Bandana

farm to table

Thomas Litrenta and Crystal Madrigal of Chef in the Black Bandana.

learning about the marine environment and all the different species and methods of harvest.”

They believe in complete transparency and traceability. “When you buy seafood from us, you know exactly where it came from, how it was caught and how it was handled,” Hosmer said. They work with small- to mid-sized fisheries that prioritize sustainable practices, allowing them to have greater control over the quality from the moment the seafood is caught until it arrives on customers’ doorsteps. “Plus, all our seafood is flash-frozen at sea, locking in the freshness and flavor,” he added. “We call it ‘dockto-doorstep’ delivery!”

When choosing a Dungeness crab, Hosmer says to look for those heavy for their size and with good meat infill, typically caught in the fall season. (They molt in the spring.) Store live crabs in the refrigerator, covered with a damp cloth or paper towel. “Cooked, flash-frozen crab keeps very, very well,” he said. “It then can be pulled out whenever you want to eat it. For cooking, steaming is a popular method that preserves the crab’s natural flavor. You can also boil or bake them.”

Hosmer finds it tough to declare his favorite crab preparation, yet if pressed to choose, he’d likely say simply steamed with a side of melted butter and a squeeze of lemon juice. “It lets the natural sweetness and flavor of the crab shine through.”

At the restaurant, Litrenta incorporates Dungeness crab into their squid ink chitarra pasta, or serves it simply boiled the way his father taught him, with melted butter and a claw cracker.

“Nothing fresher or more Pacific Northwest than that,” he said.

In the warmer months, he likes to offer Dungeness crab bruschetta using fresh focaccia plus lemon, garlic, chili flakes and bay leaf, which all “pairs well with a crisp white wine on a summer evening.” To those in the know, that combo certainly screams “Northwest culinary perfection” at its very best.

Here the coastline holds the lore of Washington’s Evergreen Coast. Powerful grit and deep tradition form a coastal pearl that has welcomed generations of travelers. Come explore mighty forests, search for shoreline treasures, and discover the charms of our coastal communities.

where

es e r t meet as these

Enchantment awaits.

In Skagit Valley, winter casts a magical spell, transforming fields into a glistening wonderland. The air fills with the scent of woodsmoke and laughter. Become enamored with nature while viewing graceful wildlife and winter birds. Beneath a starry sky, whispers of enchantment invite all to explore the beauty and mystery of this serene season.

Plan your visit now!

www.visitskagitvalley.com Funded by Skagit County

farm to table

Washington Recipes

Much Ado About Dungeness

Snap Pea Salad

General Harvest Restaurants / SEATTLE Brian Clevenger SERVES 3-4

Snap Pea Salad.

Dungeness Crab California Roll

Town & Country Markets / SEATTLE SERVES 4 • 1 cup cooked sushi rice • 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1 teaspoon salt • 2 sheets of nori, cut in half • ½ pound Dungeness crab meat • ½ avocado, thinly sliced • 1 cucumber, julienned • 1 tablespoon soy sauce • 1 teaspoon wasabi paste • Pickled sushi ginger • Spicy mayonnaise (optional) • 2 tablespoons toasted sesame or fried onion crumbles (optional) EQUIPMENT • Sushi rolling mat • Plastic wrap

32

General Harvest Restaurants

• 2 each whole Dungeness crab • 4 cups snap peas • 2 each Belgium endive • 2 each whole lemon • ¼ cup crème fraîche • ¼ cup chives, chopped • Salt, to taste • Fresh cracked pepper, to taste

Combine cooked sushi rice with rice vinegar, sugar and salt. Set aside to cool.

Cover the sushi mat with plastic wrap, and lay one half sheet of nori on the sushi mat, shiny side facing down.

Gently cover entire sheet with ¼ cup of seasoned rice, and flip entire sheet over.

Nori side facing up, place about a quarter of your crab meat in the center of the sheet in a line. Next, put a few avocado slices on the far side of the crab meat. Repeat the same process with the cucumber, placing them on the side closer to you.

Gently roll the sushi mat forward while pressing in the ingredients. Use gentle pressure to combine the ingredients and create a roll, but be careful not to squash everything, including the rice.

Cut the sushi roll into 8 pieces, and place them on a plate. Serve with soy sauce, wasabi and ginger.

Optional: Thinly drizzle spicy mayonnaise on the cut roll, and then sprinkle sesame seeds or fried onions on top of the roll.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

In a nonreactive pot, bring heavily salted water (make it taste like the ocean) to a boil. Add crab and boil for 12 minutes.

Immediately remove and submerge in ice water until cold. Pull from ice water, and remove crab meat from shells.

Slice snap peas, endive and mix. Using a microplane, zest both lemons into the snap pea and endive. Cut one lemon in half and squeeze into the snap pea and endive mixture.

Add crème fraîche, chives, salt and pepper, and mix.

Add the cold crab meat, and mix, careful not to break the meat into small pieces.

Adjust seasoning to taste, and serve.

Tip: For even pieces, cut the roll in half once. Then, stack the 2 halves together, and slice in half again. Halve the remaining 4 pieces for 8 perfect rolls! Use a single motion with your knife, drawing the blade back through your rolls and avoiding any sawing motion for the cleanest cut.

After adding the center ingredients, gently roll the sushi mat forward to form a roll. (photo: Brittany Kelley/Town & Country Markets)

Brittany Kelley/Town & Country Markets

farm to table

Dungeness Crab California Roll.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33

home + design

34 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

home + design

Views of a massive maple tree can be found at every level.

Embracing All the Angles A careful remodel of a Seattle house by architect Milton Stricker celebrates life in the trees written by Melissa Dalton | photography by Rafael Soldi

The former home of organic architect Milton Stricker in Seattle’s Mount Baker neighborhood.

MILTON STRICKER was never one for the mainstream. So say historians, who’ve deemed the architect an outsider for much of his career.

It’s a label that Stricker, who dropped out of college on the eve of his graduation to join the Frank Lloyd Wright fellowship in 1951, probably wouldn’t have minded much. What we know with more certainty, is that Stricker was a staunch believer in organic architecture as Wright defined it. “That was the true religion,” said Stricker’s son after Stricker’s 2008 passing, after four decades of designing numerous houses and churches across Seattle. “It gave him a direction and a cause and a philosophy.”

One such house was Stricker’s own, located in the Mount Baker neighborhood. Built in 1991 on a sloped and wooded lot, sharp decks at every level angle out amid the trees, while a dramatically canted roof appears to hover over the front

door. Clocking all the angles from the sidewalk, you’d never know that the primary footprint is actually a perfect square, just rotated away from the street.

Once inside, the overall effect captures the very heart of organic architecture principles—to live in harmony and balance with nature—as so many of the windows on each of the three floors frame the surrounding trees and one giant big-leaf maple in particular, which even shows up on Stricker’s original plans. “Every floor aligns with a different level of the tree,” said architect Barbara Busetti.

“It’s a massive tree, so as you move from floor to floor, up and down in the house, you are experiencing different aspects of the tree, from trunk to branches.”

The most-recent owners are avid bird watchers, so getting up close to the tree canopy—the top

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35

home + design

Architects and designers work to increase the functionality of the spaces, including the kitchen for an avid cook and baker.

deck is like a “bird sanctuary,” said Busetti—was a primary selling point. But as passionate cooks, they also needed a better kitchen. Case in point: A 24-inch-wide doorway choked the circulation into the room, and the available space was not conducive to both of them—he’s a cook and she’s a baker—working side-by-side. “They spend a lot of time together in the kitchen, and a lot of time with friends and family in the kitchen,” said Busetti, who counts herself as one of those friends who’ve joined their dinner parties over the years. “The kitchen is the heart of their social life.”

To help her friends with a gentle remodel of Stricker’s former home, Busetti, a partner at Seattle firm Allied8, teamed up with Anne Viggiano and Suzanne Scott, both of Color & Design Studio, and Dahlstrom Builders. The team tackled not just the kitchen, but two bathrooms, a laundry room, mechanical systems and storage throughout, including a custom headboard in the primary bedroom and custom lighting. Everyone’s goal was 36 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

to tread lightly. “We all agreed very easily that we were looking to upgrade the functionality, but not erase the history,” said Busetti.

In the kitchen, the original layout was tight, made especially so by an angled peninsula that followed the lines of a triangular ceiling soffit above it. “There were so many angles, it was not really made to be a chef ’s kitchen,” said Viggiano, principal designer at Color & Design Studio. “It was a challenge because we couldn’t ignore the diagonals of the house, but wanted to lessen the impact of them.” That was done by closing up the super-small doorway and reconfiguring the kitchen layout, swapping out the angled peninsula for a larger rectangular island, but keeping the triangular soffit overhead. There, the team removed the drywall to expose the framing and gain much-needed ceiling height, then wrapped the framing in fir to emphasize it. New, streamlined cabinetry accommodates the owners’ stock of equipment and is topped with a natural quartzite that can withstand all the cooking and baking prep.

home + design

In selecting finishes, the goal was to not upstage so many of the original details, like Stricker’s stained-glass windows, the architect’s art installation above the fireplace and the clear cedar covering the walls. “You don’t want to take away from what’s there, like the wood and stained glass, but you also don’t want anything you add to be flat, because everything is alive in this house,” said Viggiano. To that end, the designer chose a largeformat porcelain tile for the flooring that evokes river rock, and aquamarine velvet upholstery for the couch, both of which balance the challenging orange tones of the existing cedar.

Yet for all the change, much that is essential about the house has stayed the same, such as the dining room, which still has Stricker’s own Frank Lloyd Wright barrel chair replica set (just with new cushions). It’s perfect for hosting meals, or a quiet sit watching birds flit in the tree canopy. “Organic architecture is not so much about the architecture as it is the site that the architecture is on,” said Busetti. “This house is really a sanctuary for being in the woods.”

ABOVE The remodel kept essential originals like the stained glass in the bathroom.

AT RIGHT, FROM TOP The aquamarine velvet upholstery of the couch brings relaxation and harmony to the living room. The main bedroom, like others, feels like a birdhouse. The dining room harkens back to Stricker’s past with Frank Lloyd Wright barrel chair replicas.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 37

home + design

PREP THE LEGS Cut a 2x2 into three equal lengths for the plant stand’s legs. Cut these to your desired length depending on how far you’d like the plant to sit off of the ground.

(If making multiple plant stands to cluster together, consider making them varied heights for visual interest.) Keep the overall height below 12-14 inches—if the stand is taller, it might get wobbly.

Decide where the triangle crosspiece will sit between the leg supports. Will it be just a few inches off the ground, or closer to the top of the legs? It’s a good idea to leave at least 4 inches of clearance at the top of the legs, so they may secure the pot in place.

Measure and mark where the triangle crosspiece will attach to the legs.

Triangular Plant Stand HERE IS AN easy weekend project to display houseplants and get them up off the floors. Make one stand to fill an empty corner, or three to create an attractive grouping. These triangular plant stands can be made of scrap wood or cedar, for indoor use or out. They can also be stained or painted to a variety of desired looks. Use them with any pot that’s 12 inches in diameter or smaller.

MAKE THE TRIANGLE CROSSPIECE Cut a 2x2 into three equal lengths, about 4-8 inches long for each, and double-check that the chosen size will accommodate the base of your pot. Using a miter saw, cut a 30-degree angle at one end of each piece of wood. Lay the pieces out to form a triangle at the center, with each angled edge flush against the next piece of wood (see at left).

Use wood glue and a nail gun to secure the pieces. This will be the base for the pot to sit on.

38 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

HIDE THE HARDWARE AND FINISH When the glue is dry, take a quarter-inch piece of dowel, about a half inch long, add a little glue to the screw head, then push the dowel into the pilot hole. The dowel end will stick out, so cut it off with a handsaw and sand it flush.

Finish the entire stand with paint or stain. When dry, add the pot so it sits securely atop the triangular crosspiece.

Illustrations: Allison Bye

DIY

CONNECT THE CROSSPIECE TO THE LEGS In order to hide where the triangle crosspiece attaches to the leg, and using your pencil mark as a guide, on the outward face of the leg drill a quarter-inch-wide pilot hole, about a quarter-inch deep.

Put glue on one end of the crosspiece, press it to the leg so it lines up with the pilot hole and then drill in a screw through the hole.

Repeat on the other two ends of the crosspiece, so the crosspiece is attached at three points.

home + design

Fun Geometry

Short on space, but not on stuff? Check out ferm LIVING’s Vault Side Table.

Its slim, powder-coated steel base will sidle up nicely to a couch without taking up too much room, and it does triple duty. Perch a glass on the stone top, display some pretty tchotchkes on the middle shelf and store magazines in the curved side swoop.

With such a distinct shape and color palette—we’re partial to the pink—it’s hard to say if you’ll want to sip from these Tipsy Turvy Bar Glasses from ban.do, or just display them like a fun art piece. They’ll look great either way.

www.fermliving.us

www.bando.com

Tupelo Goods is a company born from frustration—in particular, founder Sara Kenton’s irritation with outdoor furniture that deteriorated too quickly. Kenton’s solution is a line of furnishings fashioned from the process of rotational molding. Take the Loop Lounge Chair, which is one continuous piece of marine-grade polyethylene with a high-gloss finish, molded into a sculptural, ergonomic shape that can be left out year-round to withstand sun, rain, snow or even sitting in the pool.

Photo, bottom left: Leah Verwey

www.tupelogoods.com

The Portland-based design studio Thatcher, formerly known as Juju Papers, has grown beyond wallpaper to tile, fabric and, now, these not-soordinary throw pillows. The Form Pillows come in a variety of oversized shapes and punchy colors that will look good alone, or clustered together in a delightful pile. www.thatcherstudio.com DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

39

mind + body

Runner Without Borders Lifelong marathoner Bruce Skinner has completed a marathon on seven continents written by Lauren Kramer | photography by Bill Purcell

BRUCE SKINNER ran his first marathon at the age of 31, and in 2022, completed his goal of running a marathon on every continent. The 76-year-old has run marathons in Paris, New York, Cape Town, Lima, Istanbul, Sydney, Reykjavik and Antarctica. And while his speed has decreased as the years have accumulated—from 3:59 in his 30s to 6:30 in his 70s—his passion for running and his determination to continue are undiminished.

40

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Bruce Skinner ran his first marathon more than forty-five years ago and hasn’t looked back since.

mind + body

Bruce Skinner runs along a trail near Port Angeles.

Bruce Skinner Runner

Born: Port Angeles Lives: Port Angeles Age: 76

WORKOUT “I run daily, and as of August 21, 2024, have done so for the past 8,173 days. I run 35-40 miles each week.”

NUTRITION

were running on tundra, and as the temperature rose above freezing, the ground turned to mud,” he recalled.

After completing the last of his seven continents marathons in 2022, Skinner decided to taper back to half marathons. “The number one reason I run now is that it gives me quality of life,” he said. “I’m very fortunate to still have my own knees and hips. A lot of people my age have new knees or new hips, or something else debilitating that prevents them from running. So I consider myself very lucky. But I also think it’s extremely important to keep exercising in some form or another. It keeps you young.”

INSPIRATION

Courtesy of Bruce Skinner

“When I know I’m going to run in a race, it forces me to train, and I won’t miss a single day of running,” he said. “I run in the morning, and it gets me ready for the day, clears my head and re-energizes my body. It also gives me time and space to come up with a lot of ideas.”

Back in 1979, when he cleared his first marathon, Skinner was hooked immediately. Until that point, he’d been deeply involved in athletics, but had never been an athlete himself.

Skinner worked for the University of Washington’s athletics department, the National Collegiate Athletic Association, the Houston Rockets pro basketball team and the Fiesta Bowl. He was living in Kansas when a friend announced he was training for a marathon. Skinner asked if he could train alongside him and completed his first marathon that same year.

“It was a great sense of accomplishment for me,” he recalled. After that, he continued running and, in the 1980s, added cycling to his exercise regimen. “My two favorite things are to travel and to run, so when I heard about the Seven Continents Club, where participants complete a marathon on each of the seven continents, I decided to do it.”

In Paris he ran past all the city’s major monuments, and in Istanbul he crossed the Bosphorus Strait, the bridge that connects Asia to Europe. The most challenging of those marathons was Antarctica, where Skinner and other athletes were running in mud. “We

“I watch what I eat because the heavier you are, the tougher it is to run. Running helps you control your weight, and controlling what you eat helps you run easier.

So while I don’t eliminate sugar and fat, running inspires me to limit my intake of those food groups. I eat carbohydrates, proteins and lots of fruit and vegetables.”

“I was inspired to run in 1972, when I saw Frank Shorter win the gold medal for the marathon in the Summer Olympics. These days, there’s a saying that inspires me: ‘I’m going to age, but I don’t have to grow old.’”

Bruce Skinner crosses the Antarctica Marathon finish.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

41

STARTUP 44 MY WORKSPACE 46

pg. 46 The healing beauty of foraged mushrooms.

Peter Mahar

GAME CHANGER 50

Find it all in one place.

VISITANCHORAGE.NET

startup

(Not) Out of Pocket Rethinking the approach to designing women’s clothes, Seattle label Point of View is making pockets a priority written by Rachel Gallaher

ADITI SINHA is on a mission. After more than fifteen years in the tech and consumer industries, the marketer-turned-fashion-designer is pushing for clothing equality—with a focus on pockets. At the beginning of 2024, in partnership with fellow industry alum Sakina Adeeb, Sinha launched Point of View, a Seattle-based fashion label focused on the design and production of contemporary, functional women’s workwear.

“I read this research that said that what women wear at work can impact their bottom line or earnings by up to 40 percent,” Sinha said. “That means, for better or worse, women are judged on their appearance. As I thought about that statistic, I realized that area needed some change, and that’s how Point of View came along.”

Fashion label Point of View strives to help women close the earning gap.

44

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Offering everything from dresses and skirts to jackets and tops, Sinha’s label isn’t chasing trends, but that doesn’t mean racks of boring, formless office wear, either. Women—and their daily needs—are at the heart of Point of View’s mission, so every piece of clothing Sinha designs has to be comfortable and durable, but also something that will inspire and empower its wearer.

Striking details such as draping, color blocking, accent ruffles and rows of buttons add personality to the garments without distraction. The pieces, manufactured in India, mix and match easily, and their timeless silhouettes lend themselves to creating the perfect capsule wardrobe. Sinha understands the emotional power of clothing and the importance of feeling good in what you put on every morning, and she wanted to give women easy options that would create confidence every time they walked through the conference room doors.

“When I worked in big tech, both here and back in India, I always wanted to be well dressed for work,” she said. “The men all came in with tailored suits, but somehow I was never excited when I was getting dressed for work. My work wardrobe accounted for about 80 percent of my life, but it wasn’t exciting to me whatsoever.”

She also noticed that most women’s clothing had a series lack of pockets—specifically ones that would fit an iPhone. One day at Amazon, she observed a senior leader who brought her 2-year-old son to the office for a “Bring Your Kids to Work” day. “They were going from one meeting to another, and the woman kept having to put her phone in her son’s pocket!” Sinha recalled. “He had six pockets, but his mom didn’t have any that would fit her phone. That was appalling to me and put a lot of things into perspective.”

Deciding to do something about “pocket inequality,” Sinha stepped away from her Big Tech job in 2023, joined forces with Adeeb, and travelled to Paris to immerse herself in the fashion capitol of the world. Looking to prioritize their clientele’s needs in the design process, Point of View’s founders interviewed more than 200 women to find out what was missing from their clothes. Aside from pockets, the final list included bra-strap holders, adjustable pant legs, elastic waists and machine-washable, breathable fabrics.

“We did a lot of sampling,” Sinha said, noting that she spent almost five months in India sourcing fabrics and scouting production facilities. “It was important to find the right manufacturer that would give us the right tailored silhouette. Even though this sounds simple, it’s super technical. During the day I would scour the markets, and at night I took a bunch of courses to understand and learn the technicalities of fashion and fabrics so I had some depth of understanding about the process and industry.”

In January 2024, one month before Point of View debuted its inaugural collection, Sinha launched a Change.org petition called the “Pockets Pledge” based on the statistics that “only 5 percent of women’s pockets can fit a smartphone, compared to 85 percent of men’s pockets. On average, women’s pockets are 48 percent shorter and 6.5 percent narrower than men’s pockets.”

The petition, which is aimed at the Federal Trade Commission,

Photos: Point of View

startup

Point of View founders Sakina Adeeb (left) and Aditi Sinha.

demands “functional pockets in ALL women’s clothing items, from dresses and skirts to jeans and blazers.”

“It shouldn’t be thought of as ‘novel’ or a ‘luxury’ for women’s clothing to have usable pockets,” Sinha said. Nearly 400 people have signed the petition, and dozens more have provided positive feedback. While Point of View functions mostly as an ecommerce site, pieces are available locally through clothing rental company Armoire, as well as NC Concept Store in Edmonds.

“Going forward, we’ll release new pieces,” Sinha explained, “but not seasonal drops, which have been the norm in apparel industry. At Point of View, we’ve taken a conscious call to not embrace trends. We look at our clothing as investment pieces that you will wear—and look good in—year after year.”

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

45

my workspace

One of Steven Cabrera’s earliest memories is observing his Mexican grandparents creating tasty dishes that left an indelible impression on their large extended family. At just 8 years old, Cabrera’s interest in foraged-ingredient recipes was sparked and has been a theme throughout his life, culminating in his current passion: foraging for and cooking with mushrooms.

My Workspace

Healing Helpings Chef Steven Cabrera cultivates health through dishes with foraged mushrooms written by Joni Kabana photography by Peter Mahar 46

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

my workspace

Despite the demands of his time working in upscale restaurants, Cabrera prioritizes hiking forested areas with his dog, Kira, searching for morels, porcini, lobster and other edible mushrooms to create dishes that are both palate delighting and visually enticing.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

47

Steven Cabrera

my workspace

Cabrera is especially interested in preparing health-enhancing recipes, which has led him to volunteer preparing meals for people who are in hospice, living with disabilities or experiencing life-threatening ailments. With mushrooms most frequently at the helm of his meals, Cabrera concocts mushroom tacos, risotto and other tasty dishes acknowledging the healing powers of mushrooms.

Cabrera offers private, in-home dinners as well as cooking lessons and mushroom-foraging education. He garners great satisfaction from sharing his love for mushrooms, while giving a nod toward the effects of foraging activity. “Hiking in our amazing forests is where I find myself breathing deep, meditating on my thoughts and acquiring inspirations for new dishes,” he said. “I love exploring my backyard, the glorious and bountiful Gorge of the Pacific Northwest.”

48

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

my workspace

Chefs Adam Byatt and Jean-Pierre Brehier serve as Cabrera’s source of inspiration due to their cooking processes and plating expertise. Yet Cabrera remains dedicated to recipes that have healing powers as well as being delicious, and he stays devoted to his philosophy of “Let thy food be thy medicine.” Follow Cabrera’s work on Instagram @chef.cabrera.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

49

Fast Track Peace Peloton uses bike rides, outdoor markets and more to promote Black-owned businesses

Keith B. Evans/Peace Peloton

game changer

written by Daniel O’Neil

Fresh Air rides from Peace Peloton benefit Black-owned businesses.

IN EARLY June 2020, Doc Wilson and about 400 other cyclists joined for a ride through Seattle. With the pandemic and the death of George Floyd affecting peoples’ lives and hearts, Wilson and others pedaled in the fresh air to show the city, and the world, that people of varied backgrounds could still come together peacefully. Starting at Alki Beach Park and ending at the Northwest African American Museum, the ride inspired another, then another. Like spokes gathering inward, the rides soon formed a hub, now called Peace Peloton.

Wilson, a University of Washington alumnus, is drawn toward entrepreneurship. He quickly recognized the opportunity to keep the bike gatherings going while also benefitting Blackowned businesses. So he started Peace Peloton, a nonprofit, to foster diversity and community and to elevate and accelerate the success of Black entrepreneurs.

Peace Peloton now has several initiatives that achieve and unify these aims. The bike rides that began in 2020 soon became 50

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Fresh Air, a group outing that begins at a Black-owned coffee shop and ends at another Black-owned business, like a bar or restaurant, where people can refuel and socialize. Some of these rides invite a Black docent or historian to share stories from Seattle’s Black community along the way. Over the last few years, Peace Peloton has taken the Fresh Air concept to cities like Minneapolis, Los Angeles, Boston and Washington, DC. “We build these communities and these connections where people can continue to grow, understand, create, connect and bring more people into the fold,” Wilson said. “It’s not homogenous. We want to bring people together.”

Leading by example, Peace Peloton generates revenue to remain self-sustaining, and Wilson is eager to share this successful business acumen. Currently, he’s working to develop a new Peace Peloton initiative called Thrive Space, which will serve as a business incubator, community gathering space and entertainment space. Financial literacy support, marketing

CB Bell/Peace Peloton

game changer

The Columbia City Night Market is held on the third Saturday of every month.

“We build these communities and these connections where people can continue to grow, understand, create, connect and bring more people into the fold. It’s not homogenous.

We want to bring people together.”

— Doc Wilson, Peace Peloton founder and executive director support and an attractive venue will help more Black-owned businesses find their footing and evolve into brick-and-mortar stores. To some degree, Peace Peloton is already providing this assistance through its most-frequent event, the Columbia City Night Market.

Held the third Saturday of each month, rain or shine since December 2020, the night market livens up the Columbia City neighborhood in Seattle with food, drink and live music while also promoting entrepreneurs. Peace Peloton welcomes people from all walks of life, but it continues to prioritize Black-owned enterprises. Of the fifty to seventy vendors at the night market each month, half are Black-owned businesses.

“A lot of these small, mom-and-pop businesses or single-entrepreneur businesses don’t have a place of their own, and they don’t have the mechanism to bring a large amount of people to their business,” Wilson said. “We introduce them to an audience of motivated consumers. We say, ‘We’re going to bring the

people. You just bring a quality product, and it’s up to you to incentivize these people.’”

Columbia City neighborhood resident Ben Spicer finds optimism and enthusiasm among the multi-age, diverse crowd at the night market. Spicer appreciates getting to know neighbors and the local business people, and he figures other neighborhoods in Seattle should have a Peace Peloton night market, something the City of Seattle is considering. And he sees the unified positive influence that radiates out from Peace Peloton.

“It’s powerful to have hundreds of people out having fun, celebrating at night in the center of our community,” Spicer said.

“But Peace Peloton’s reach, from their bicycle rides and other outdoor activities to the amplification of local entrepreneurs, I think that’s where the impact gets even deeper.”

MORE ONLINE

To keep up with Peace Peloton’s latest, or to get involved, visit www.peacepeloton.com

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 51

Into the

WILD For top-notch wildlife viewing, these four Washington destinations deliver written by Ryn Pfeuffer

With its diverse ecosystems, from coastal shores to alpine mountains, Washington is a hot spot for wildlife watching.

Our national parks host thousands of wildlife species, including elk, bears, deer, seals, beavers, whales and bats.

While populations are flourishing, spotting wildlife often requires patience and luck. Some creatures are easier to see than others, but you can improve your chances by learning about the wildlife you want to encounter.

Here are some of the best places to see wildlife:

52 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

D A young buck surfaces among wildflowers in Mount Rainier National Park. (photo: Stephen Matera)

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53

Bald eagles are not uncommon on the Ozette Triangle Loop in Olympic National Park. (photo: Jim Meyers)

Olympic

National Park 54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Viewing Tips Watch at Dawn and Dusk // Most wildlife activity occurs around dawn and dusk when animals feed. Plan your excursions during these times to increase your chances of spotting wildlife.

Bring the Right Tools // Enhance your viewing experience with field guides, binoculars, a zoom lens and comfortable shoes.

Stop in the Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park for a chance to spot Roosevelt elk. (photo: Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau)

S

PANNING nearly a million acres, Olympic National Park is a playground for wildlife lovers. Its dramatic diversity, from glacier-capped mountains to lush rainforests, makes it one of the most fascinating places in the Lower Forty-Eight states. As you explore its remote trails, you might spot black-tailed deer roaming the forests or encounter majestic Roosevelt elk, especially in the serene Hoh Rainforest. Remember to keep a respectable distance, as these mighty creatures can be unpredictable.

Head to higher elevations near Hurricane Ridge to see Olympic marmots basking on rocks or peeking out from their burrows.

Birdwatchers will delight in the skies filled with more than 300 species, including bald eagles, northern pygmy owls, black oystercatchers and sooty grouse.

For an awesome spectacle, witness the dramatic fall salmon migration at the Salmon Cascades overlook, where all five species of Pacific salmon make their upstream journey.

The park’s rugged coastline also offers frontrow whale-watching opportunities during migration seasons—look for gray whales, humpbacks, orcas and playful dolphins at Kalaloch, Rialto and Shi Shi beaches.

Watch for black bears in the backcountry, where sightings are rare but do happen. With 95 percent of the park designated as wilderness, each visit offers new chances to see animals in their natural habitat.

Where to Stay: Kalaloch Lodge (www.the kalalochlodge.com) offers oceanfront accommodations that are perfect for families. The cabins have kitchens and spacious layouts, ideal for extended stays. // What to Eat: Don’t miss Dupuis’ Restaurant (www.dupuis-restaurant. com), a charming spot between Sequim and Port Angeles known for its seafood and hearty classics. // Learn More: www.nps.gov/olym

Keep an eye out for marmots on Hurricane Ridge. (photo: Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau)

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Know Their Habits and Habitats // Understanding habitat preferences and seasonal cycles is vital to successful wildlife observation. For example, you won’t find a marmot on the coast or a river otter at Hurricane Ridge.

Migratory species like gray whales are best seen in spring and fall while hibernating animals like marmots are typically visible only in summer.

Researching these aspects before your visit can significantly improve your chances of an encounter.

Ask a Ranger // Visit the nearest visitor center for up-to-date information on the best wildlife viewing areas.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55

The San Juan Islands are known spots to catch orcas either from land lookouts or on chartered boats. (photo: Alissa Elderkin/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau)

H

OME TO the San Juan Island National Historical Park, the San Juan Islands offer an extraordinary landscape for wildlife observation. The Salish Sea teems with life, boasting hundreds of fish species, 200 bird species and a wide variety of marine and terrestrial mammals. Among the highlights are the iconic orcas—particularly the salmon-eating “Southern Resident” pods (J, K and L) and their marine mammal-hunting cousins, the Transients. From April to October, especially in August and September, you have the best chance of witnessing these striking black-and-white creatures, along with humpbacks and minke whales.

The best way to see marine wildlife is on a whale-watching tour led by experienced naturalists who know the waters intimately.

Whether you prefer a private boat or a kayaking adventure, there’s an option for everyone.

Lime Kiln Point State Park, often dubbed Whale Watch Park, is world renowned for land-based viewing.

The islands also boast the largest breeding population of bald eagles in the Lower FortyEight, with more than 125 nesting sites. As you wander the island, watch for these magnificent birds, along with great blue herons,

peregrine falcons and the elusive red fox, introduced to control rabbit populations.

With river otters foraging along the shore and Steller sea lions basking on rocks, the San Juans promise wildlife encounters (from a safe distance, of course) to remember.

Where to Stay: Snug Harbor Resort (www.snug resort.com) on San Juan Island offers cozy waterfront cabins with stunning views and fully equipped kitchens. // What to Eat: Duck Soup (www.ducksoupsanjuans.com), established in 1978, serves fresh, island-inspired cuisine in a cozy setting. // Learn More: www. visitsanjuans.com

You may spy foxes on the San Juan Islands, too. (photo: Monika Wieland Shields/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau)

56 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

The San Juans are also home to harbor seals. (photo: Gemina Garland-Lewis)

San Juan

Islands DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57

Mount Rainier

National Park

58 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

M

OUNT RAINIER National Park is a dream destination for wildlife enthusiasts, full of incredible biodiversity.

Spanning over 368 square miles, it’s home to sixty-five mammal species, 182 bird species, fourteen amphibians, five reptiles and fourteen types of native fish. The animals you might encounter vary with the season and elevation, so each visit offers a fresh adventure.

The park’s meadows are a hot spot for wildlife viewing, especially in summer.

Locations like Paradise and Sunrise come Marmots, also known as “whistling pigs,” bask in Mount alive with vibrant wildflowers, attractRainier National Park. (photo: Gemina Garland-Lewis) ing all sorts of creatures. Keep an eye out for Columbian black-tailed deer roaming the meadows, Look for the sure-footed Douglas squirrels chattering mountain goats in the alpine in the trees and the striking and subalpine regions, easily Steller’s jays flashing their recognizable by their white vivid blue feathers. These fur and impressive horns. birds and common ravens They thrive on the rocky are among the many avian ridges and cliff faces, showNever Feed Wildlife // Feeding wildlife, residents that nest here, casing their agility against including birds and while others migrate south the rugged backdrop. Pikas, small mammals like for the winter. small mammals related to chipmunks, is illegal Mount Rainier’s diverse elrabbits, can often be heard and harmful to their evation—ranging from 1,500 before they’re seen, emitting natural behaviors. feet to more than 14,400 squeaky high-pitched calls as feet—creates distinct life they scurry among the rocks. zones. The park is home to Don’t miss the chance to spot hoary marmots, Roosevelt elk, one of North Keep a Safe affectionately known as America’s largest subspeDistance // Maintain “whistling pigs.” These social cies, often seen in the lower at least 150 feet ground squirrels are often forested areas and meadows. from wildlife. If an seen basking in the sun on In the fall, their distinctive animal moves away warm rocks during the sumbugling can be heard during from you, you’re too close. Use binoculars mer months. the mating season, adding an or a telephoto lens unforgettable soundtrack to to observe without Where to Stay: The Paradise your visit. disturbing them.

Inn (www.mtrainierguest American black bears are services.com/accommodations/ also a common sight in the paradise-inn) offers prime trail park, typically foraging in access and is conveniently various habitats during the located near popular hikes. // Avoid Viewing While summer. While they tend What to Eat: For a unique dinDriving // Always stop to avoid human interaction, ing experience, try Wildberry at roadside pullouts to (www.rainierwildberry.com), a storing food properly and view wildlife, ensuring Nepalese restaurant offering maintaining a safe distance safety for you and dishes like Himalayan Sherpa is wise. Carrying bear spray the animals while stew and pork momo dumpon hikes can provide peace reducing the risk of lings. // Learn More: www.nps. of mind for those concerned vehicle accidents and gov/mora congestion. about bear encounters.

Be a Safe & Responsible Wildlife Observer

A black bear roams the hillside in Mount Rainier National Park. (photo: Stephen Matera)

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59

Mountain goats on the Sahale Arm Trail in North Cascades National Park. (photo: North Cascades National Park Service Complex)

The rabbit-like pika can be found in North Cascades National Park. (photo: North Cascades National Park Service Complex)

N

ORTH CASCADES National Park, just two hours northeast of Seattle, is one of Washington’s three national parks and definitely the least known. It’s been making headlines lately with plans to reintroduce grizzly bears, which is exciting news for wildlife lovers.

Your wildlife experience here really depends on the season, time of day and how far you’re

willing to explore. Keep an eye out for telltale signs of life such as tracks, scat and feeding signs—these are all clues that point to the creatures inhabiting this stunning wilderness.

The park features a rich tapestry of ecosystems, from lush temperate rainforests to dry ponderosa pine forests. About seventy-five mammal species roam these rugged landscapes, including elusive cougars and lynx.

While spotting a gray wolf or wolverine can be a challenge, you might just catch a glimpse of them if you’re lucky.

You’ll have a better chance with some of the more visible residents, like Columbian black-tailed deer, playful Douglas squirrels and adorable pikas, often seen in the meadows and rocky slopes. Birdwatchers will love the park’s diverse avian life, including majestic bald eagles, agile ospreys and swift peregrine falcons, along with various colorful neotropical migrants that fill the skies with song.

Where to Stay: In-park options are limited to camping, but Ross Lake Resort (www.rosslake resort.com) offers floating cabins through a lottery. // What to Eat: At the gateway to the American Alps, Upriver Grill & Taproom (www.uprivergrill.com) is a mountain-themed restaurant that offers standout wild Pacific salmon, local draft beers, craft cocktails and an extensive whiskey selection. // Learn More: www.nps.gov/noca

Birdwatching in the North Cascades brings rewards. (photo: Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism)

60 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

North Cascades National Park DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 61

Slowly and deliberately, federal agencies will begin reintroducing grizzlies to the North Cascades in the near future. (photo: A. Falgoust/ National Park Service)

62 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

GRIZZLY BEARS

ARE COMING BACK

‘A L P I N E G A R D E N E R S ’ A R E R E T U R N I N G TO THEIR HISTORIC HOME RANGE I N T H E N O RT H C A S C A D E S written by Lauren Kramer

F

or thousands of years, grizzly bears made their home in the North Cascades. Like alpine gardeners, they aerated the soil as they dug for roots, dispersed seeds and spread the nutrients of dead carcasses across the landscape. Then, by 1996, they disappeared, eliminated by human fear and deadly bullets. For the past thirty years the National Park Service and the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service have advocated relentlessly for their reintroduction. Finally, in late April, a federal decision was announced.

The bears are coming back.

Their range will be 9,800 square miles of intact wildland, an area where these apex predators once roamed freely. This tract of land, larger than the state of New Jersey, is under federal management and is composed of mostly mountains.

The decision to bring the grizzlies back is a crucial one, said Gordon Congdon, a retired biologist from Wenatchee who is actively involved in the Grizzly Bear Recovery Program in Washington state. “The worldwide effort to prevent the loss of biodiversity is a challenge,” he said. “Oftentimes, large animals like grizzly bears are the first ones to disappear. They have big impacts on the environment, and when they’re gone, there are cascading effects.”

Grizzlies are a keystone species that play a crucial role in a healthy ecosystem, he explained. “Grizzly bears eat plants, defecate seeds and aerate the soil as they dig. They create habitats that support deer, elk and other species, and they clean up the carcasses of animals killed in the winter. They play an important role in maintaining a stable natural environment.”

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63

An area the size of New Jersey in the North Cascades will be habitat for the new grizzlies.

T

he decision to reintroduce grizzlies to the North Cascades was thirty years in the making. Back in 1975 they were listed as “threatened” under the Endangered Species Act. “At that time there were a few hundred bears left in the lower 48, and we didn’t know if recovery was even possible,” Congdon said.

In 1997, the North Cascades were identified as one of six regions that had sufficient habitat to support a healthy grizzly population. Four of those locations already had a small population of bears, and were determined as viable places for population growth. Two of them—the North Cascades and Idaho’s Bitterroot Range—had, and still have, no grizzly bears to this day.

The grizzly restoration plans stalled for decades, taking two steps forward and one step back as different political parties took control of Congress. In 2015, a review process received overwhelming public approval from Washington residents, with 80 percent of responses in support of grizzly reintroduction. A second review process followed in 2023 with similar results, eliciting 12,000 public comments.

64 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

“Our sense is that wildlife is very popular,” said Graham Taylor, National Parks Conservation Association’s program manager for the Northwest Region. “People believe wildlife belongs in our national parks especially, and in other protected areas where they’ve been extricated by human activities. But that doesn’t mean people don’t have questions or concerns.”

Some residents asked why grizzly bears couldn’t come back of their own volition, instead of being reintroduced to the region. Physically, that’s close to impossible, Taylor explained.

“It’s very difficult for grizzly bears to reach the North Cascades because the landscape is fragmented by roads, railroads, highways and human development. These things form barriers to natural grizzly migration. Also, the nature of grizzly bear biology is such that female grizzlies don’t stray very far from their mother’s home range. And there are so few bears in the closest source population that there is no reason for them to move, making natural migration highly unlikely.”

Instead, the grizzlies coming to the North Cascades will be translocated from other ecosystems in the Rocky Mountains or the British Columbia interior. While the date of reintroduction has not yet been determined, the plan is to move three to seven grizzlies per year for a period of five to ten years, to establish an initial population of twenty-five bears.

Congdon said those bears selected for translocation would likely be anesthetized and driven by trailer most of the way to Washington. The final leg of the trip, dropping them off in a remote part of their new terrain, would likely be done by helicopter. “These kinds of things have been routinely done in Montana,” he said. “We know how to do this, and there are lots of scientists in Canada and the U.S. to ensure it’s done properly and safely.”

The bears selected are likely to be young females that are pregnant or with cubs, he added, and a smaller number of males. “Female grizzlies are unlikely to try and wander back to where they came from, while male grizzlies have been known to sometimes walk hundreds of miles to get back to where they were captured.”

They will be designated as a nonessential experimental population under section 10(j) of the Endangered Species Act. That designation is important because it gives authorities and land managers additional management tools that would not otherwise be available. By actively managing the grizzly population, the agencies will address concerns about human safety, property and livestock, delivering the reassurance that grizzly bear recovery in the North Cascades will depend on community tolerance.

Congdon said biologists will be tracking the bears with collars and closely following their behavior. “If it appears they’re getting into places with potential conflict, the agencies will react quickly to minimize that possibility,” he said.

But it’s really important to separate fact from fiction when it comes to grizzly bears, he warned.

“When people think of grizzlies, they think of large, voracious carnivores, which is incorrect. Grizzlies get 80 percent of their calories from plants and insects. They’re true omnivores and can get by well without eating cattle, sheep, deer or elk. They’re not the voracious carnivores people make them out to be, nor are they much of a threat to cattle and livestock. Occasionally they will kill, but numbers are low, and particularly in this scenario, with very few bears in the North Cascades, it’s unlikely to happen. If it does, the farmers will be compensated.”

Data from Montana also points to the unlikeliness of grizzlies feasting on livestock, said Chris Servheen, who works with the Bear Specialist Group at the International Union for Conservation of Nature in Missoula. He had a thirty-five-year career as the grizzly bear recovery coordinator with the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service until his retirement in 2016.

Montana is home to 1,500 grizzly bears, thousands of black bears and 2.65 million cows and sheep, he noted.

“Last year bears killed eighty-two cows and sheep, which represents an extremely low number. When it does happen, agencies act aggressively to capture and move any bears that kill livestock.”

Grizzly bears don’t pose a significant threat to humans, either, Congdon added. “Many people are afraid of grizzly bears, with good reason—they can be dangerous, but generally they are not. They’re not looking for conflict with humans, and we have great data from Yellowstone National Park to prove it.”

A November 2022 article by Kerry Gunther in the journal Human-Wildlife Interactions noted that in the 147year period from 1872 to 2018, a total of seven people were killed by grizzly bears in Yellowstone National Park.

“OUR SENSE IS THAT WILDLIFE IS VERY POPULAR. PEOPLE BELIEVE WILDLIFE BELONGS IN OUR NATIONAL PARKS ESPECIALLY, AND IN OTHER PROTECTED AREAS WHERE THEY’VE BEEN EXTRICATED BY HUMAN ACTIVITIES.

BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN PEOPLE DON’T HAVE QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS.”

— G R A H A M T A Y L O R , N AT I O N A L PA R K S C O N S E R V AT I O N A S S O C I AT I O N ’ S P R O G R A M M A N A G E R F O R T H E N O RT H W E S T R E G I O N

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65

“GRIZZLY BEARS RARELY ATTACK PEOPLE

A grizzly bear on a cold morning in Yellowstone National Park. (photo: Jim Peaco/National Park Service)

BECAUSE THEY’RE NOT PREDATORY TOWARD PEOPLE, AND ALMOST ALWAYS, THOSE ATTACKS ARE RELATED TO SURPRISE ENCOUNTERS. BEARS ARE VERY GOOD AT STAYING AWAY FROM US, AND THAT’S WHAT THEY DO MOST OF THE TIME.” — CHRIS SERVHEEN, WORKS WITH IUCN BEAR S P E C I A L I S T G R O U P & F O R M E R G R I Z Z LY B E A R R E C O V E R Y C O O R D I N AT O R W I T H U S F W S

The frequency of fatal grizzly bear attacks in the park was similar to the frequency of deaths caused by hypothermia, murder, falling trees, avalanches and lightning strikes.

In that same period, 121 park visitors died by drowning, thirty-nine by falling off cliffs and twenty-one from thermal burns.

More recent research by Gunther, Travis Wyman and Eric Reinertson, published in the Spring 2023 issue of International Bear News, showed that in the thirty-two years between 1991 and 2022, there were 2,275 bear encounters in the backcountry in Yellowstone and twenty-five of these resulted in attacks. “The risk of attack in the backcountry is one attack for every ninety-one backcountry encounters,” the authors noted. Grizzlies in Yellowstone number 1,100 today, a population that is orders of magnitude more than ever will be in the North Cascades in our lifetimes.

T

aylor said a healthy fear of grizzly bears is completely understandable. “It’s a normal thing for our brains to be afraid of larger animals that can attack us, and it’s good to have that fear in place so you conduct yourself in the right way in a place where there are grizzly bears, to prevent and reduce the chance of conflict.”

That means hiking in a group instead of alone, and carrying bear spray, a highly effective deterrent in persuading a bear to leave you alone, he added. If you’re camping

66 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

or living in a rural area, understand how to store your food, garbage and other potential attractants.

“Understanding the risk level from grizzlies is important,” he cautioned. “You’re as likely to be struck by lightning in Yellowstone National Park as you are to be attacked and killed by a bear. Most encounters with bears don’t end in conflict, but you don’t hear about them because they don’t make the news. While I don’t mean to detract from anyone who has been attacked by a bear, it doesn’t mean grizzly bears should not exist on the landscape they lived in for thousands of years.”

Servheen is in full agreement. “Grizzly bears rarely attack people because they’re not predatory toward people, and almost always, those attacks are related to surprise

encounters. Bears are very good at staying away from us, and that’s what they do most of the time. It’s unlikely people will even see grizzlies in the North Cascades, never mind have an encounter with them.”

He added that there are hundreds of thousands of people recreating in bear habitat, and most of the time, when people get close to grizzlies, they don’t even know it. “There’s no headline in the paper when the grizzly bear leaves because it doesn’t make the news. The only time you see a news story is when there’s a negative event, and that’s why people think of that. Bears do a good job of staying away from us. That’s just what they do.”

Congdon is one of many who believe the reintroduction of the grizzlies to their historic home range in the

North Cascades is an issue of moral, ethical, cultural and environmental importance. “This is the future of conservation biology. If we’re going to maintain biodiversity, we need to do it proactively now, while we still have the chance. It would be an incalculable loss if we didn’t,” he said.

Scott Schuyler, policy director for the Upper Skagit Tribe, concurs. “Our ancestors coexisted with grizzly bears for thousands of years, and without these apex predators, the landscape is missing something essential,” he said. “We have a moral responsibility to restore and repair when the opportunity presents itself, and this is the right time to return grizzly bears to our ancestral territory.”

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67

Sunset over the Hanford Reach of the Columbia River and Rattlesnake Mountain from the White Bluffs, Hanford Reach National Monument.

68 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT written by Kerry Newberry WASHINGTON-BASED wildlife photographer David Moskowitz’s most-recent book, Big River: Resilience and Renewal in the Columbia Basin, takes readers on a visual journey through the epic Columbia watershed. His evocative photos are paired with essays by author Eileen Delehanty Pearkes, revealing the wild beauty of this river while also highlighting current challenges facing the region.

The book illuminates the many riverkeepers of the Pacific Northwest who are leading conservation efforts and raising awareness of the importance of preserving the Columbia River. One of the most legendary salmon rivers in the world, the storied Columbia is also a “working river,” providing a tremendous amount of hydroelectric power and irrigation water.

The fourth-largest river in North America, the mighty Columbia waters flow 1,200 miles across seven U.S. states, one Canadian province and the traditional territories of dozens of Indigenous nations and tribes. All of the photos are excerpted from Big River: Resilience and Renewal in the Columbia Basin (June 2024) and reprinted with permission from the publisher, Braided River, the conservation imprint of Mountaineers Books. Learn more at www.bigrivercolumbia.org.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

69

ABOVE, FROM TOP Near its mouth, the tidally influenced Columbia River is miles across, dwarfing large commercial shipping vessels. Aldolfo Martinez, from Santa Cruz, Mexico, is one of thousands of temporary workers who come to the Columbia River watershed every year to harvest agricultural products. A herd of elk crosses the Gros Ventre River, a tributary of the Snake River in Wyoming, in early spring.

AT RIGHT A mountain lion pauses on a winter day in the forest above a tributary to the Columbia River in the North Cascades, Washington.

70 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71

Ira Yallop uses a dip net to catch coho salmon off his fishing platform along the Klickitat River, a traditional fishing location for the people of the Yakama Nation.

FAR RIGHT, TOP The clean cobbles of the Cle Elum River make an ideal spawning habitat for sockeye salmon. The Yakama Nation has recently restored spawning streams, such as this one, that had been destroyed by irrigation projects.

FAR RIGHT, BOTTOM Orion Squakin, member of the Penticton Indian Band, collects sockeye salmon caught as part of the Okanagan Nation Alliance’s commercial fishing operation on Osoyoos Lake.

72 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73

The pinnacle of North American watersheds, the massive Columbia Icefield in the Rocky Mountains feeds water into the Arctic, Atlantic and Pacific oceans. This area drains into the Bush River, a tributary of the Columbia River.

74 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 75

ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92

pg. 80 Winter’s other sport—fat tire biking—is at its best when done in the Methow Valley.

Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 78

travel spotlight

ABOVE Ye Olde Curiosity Shop at Pier 54 in Seattle. AT LEFT Treasures and oddities from a traveler’s suitcase abound at this iconic shop.

The World Writ Small Ye Olde Curiosity Shop on Pier 54 in Seattle was sparked by a gift from a third-grade teacher written by Joni Kabana | photography by Morgen Schuler IF YOU ever get a hankering to purchase a duck heart—the wet specimen kind—we know where you can find one. Or if you fancy an Inuit sealskin heart-shaped ornament, we know where you can find that as well.

And if your heart is set on a twopiece, half-heart necklace set with embedded scorpions that you can share with a lover or friend, well, we know where you can find this also.

Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, located on Pier 54 in Seattle, bursts at its oldstore seams with objects that will hold your attention far longer than you might expect before you entered its doors. Don’t miss that ferry! You’ll surely while getting caught up staring at something that seems impossible to be real, yet there it is, right before your own eyes.

Joseph Edward Standley, aka “Daddy,” found his obsession with oddities after being gifted a Wonders

of Nature book by his third grade teacher in Steubenville, Ohio, for having the neatest desk. After perusing that book, Standley began looking for and collecting unique items at this young age and never looked back. Even during an early adulthood brief stint owning a grocery store, one had to sift through the wild artifacts to get to the food.

Standley got his nickname “Daddy” due to his friendly mannerisms and the kind way he, after moving to Seattle and opening his shop in 1899, would barter with sailors and fishermen as they came to shore carrying things from faraway places.

Daddy passed away in 1940, but his spirit, and his shop, live on through his extended family as they welcome visitors and curiosity seekers who leave their schedules behind and enter the dizzy-land of what-nots and what’s-thats.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 79

Adventure

Fat Tire Fun Methow Valley’s groomed trails offer stellar, accessible snow biking written by Cathy Carroll

AN ARDENT ROMANCE with cycling doesn’t have to grow frosty once snow covers the ground. As your bike gathers dust in the garage, it may well be thinking: “Oh, (insert your name here), go, have a fling with another this season. I’ll understand—see you in the spring.”

A dalliance with fat tire biking gives you quad-pumping access to stellar views and fun for months, whether you’re a beginner or veteran.

Methow Valley has some of Washington’s best trails and views all day.

80

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Steve Mitchell

adventure

Epic Winter Adventures in the Canadian Rockies

Photo: Matt Kuhn, Courtesy of Island Lake Catskiing

Discover a true winter wonderland in Fernie, British Columbia, where over 30 feet of snow annually transforms the landscape into the ultimate playground for skiers and snowboarders.

For an unforgettable multi-day experience, Island Lake Catskiing offers exclusive small group catskiing across 7,000+ acres of private bowls, valleys, and glades. Enjoy exceptional service, cozy backcountry lodges, fine dining, and a relaxing spa—all in a stunning wilderness setting.

Fernie Wilderness Adventures offers single-day catskiing across 5,000+ acres, where you can carve your own path through a blend of open runs, glades, and varied ridges, delivering an exciting day of legendary powder.

Located in the Rockies of southeast British Columbia, Fernie is a friendly mountain town known for its deep powder snow and cool local vibe. Just over 100 miles north of Whitefish & Kalispell, Montana, Fernie is easy to get to. With savings of 30-35% thanks to the great exchange rate, a trip north this winter is well worth it!

Book your winter trip today! | TourismFernie.com I #ferniestoke

FROM TOP The key to having fun fat biking anywhere is to keep your hands and feet warm. Fat biking at White Pass.

With this kind of bike, the knobby tires are nearly 4 inches wide, about an inch wider than on most mountain bikes, and that offers the grip needed for snow. Tire pressure is only about 5 pounds, compared to 25 to 35 pounds for a mountain bike.

“It’s slower, but it’s also a very stable feeling,” said Stephen Mitchell, who has worked with Methow Cycle & Sport in Winthrop and has been grooming fat bike trails in the Methow Valley since 2010. “You’re going 5 to 10 miles an hour, and these bikes are easy to control, easy to handle. They all have disc brakes and are easy to shift.”

Mitchell began building some of the earliest versions of today’s fat bikes in the late ’80s, welding mountain bike rims together to accommodate the widest tires available. The modifications allowed the bike to cruise over snow, rather than sink in it.

For beginners, Mitchell recommends getting a sense of the bike’s feel by testing it out on any flat road. Keeping your hands and feet warm are also important. Mitchell recommends using 82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

handlebar mitts called “pogies,” and lightweight, warm boots with plenty of toe room. Dress in layers that can be shed as you warm up.

“As long as your hands and toes are warm, you’re going to come away with a smile on your face,” he said. “It’s a lot of fun.”

The fun extends into the evening with the “Fat and Fire” social ride, Wednesdays at 6 p.m. at Pearrygin State Park. Methow Cycle & Sport loans bikes to first timers for the ride, using lights and dividing groups based on ability, so no one gets left behind.

Each group has a leader who helps guide, instruct and is ready to inflate tires or help with repairs.

Afterward, gather around a fire pit, grill food and sip libations.

“It’s a great way for a complete novice to say, ‘Hey, I want to give it a try, and I’d like someone to go on a ride with me,’’’ said Mitchell.

Some of Washington’s best fat tire biking is in the Methow Valley, where groomed trails are packed and sculpted specifically to support fat bikes.

adventure

SOME EASY TRAILS INCLUDE: • Big Valley: This wide trail is shared with skiers, snowshoers

and dogs. Flat inner and outer loops are groomed about twice weekly.

• John’s Way: This fun, flat-to-rolling loop has a 30-inch-wide

groomed trail for fat bikes and snowshoes, from the Mazama Corral trailhead to Timberline Meadows.

SOME MODERATE TRAILS INCLUDE: • Lloyd Ranch: Pedal 30-inch-wide groomed trails that tra-

verse rolling hills and some sustained climbs adjacent to Pearrygin State Park. It’s a favorite of Julie Muyllaert, co-owner of Methow Cycle & Sport, who believes it offers one of the most beautiful views in the valley, especially on sunny winter days, with snowy mountains framing Pearrygin Lake.

• Pearrygin State Park: The 30-inch-wide groomed trails

range from flat near the lake to rolling hills and some sustained climbs.

• Gunn Ranch: Dogs can join on this wide trail, also shared

with skiers. Ride 8 miles round trip, steadily climbing to soulsoothing views and sun on your face, even when fog envelops the valley below.

Stephen Mitchell

Beyond the Methow Valley, White Pass Nordic Center in Naches offers 16 miles of trails with views of Cascade Crest that’s open to fat bikes when the snow is firm enough. The center rents fat bikes, too.

FAT BIKE TRAIL ETIQUETTE To best navigate winter trails, The Central Cascades Winter Recreation Council advises: • If riding is causing footprints or ruts, return another time when the surface is firmer.

• Do not ride in flat, middle skate ski lanes. Ride on the edge where snowshoers walk.

Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism

CHECK RIDING CONDITIONS + MORE AT: Methow Cycle & Sport www.methowcyclesport.com White Pass Nordic Center www.skiwhitepass.com/ the-mountain/nordic-center Central Cascades Winter Recreation Council www.snowrec.org

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Methow Fatbike The Methow Fatbike page on Facebook is a community where fat bike enthusiasts share information about fat biking in the Methow Valley. www.facebook.com/ methowfatbike

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 83

lodging

DECOR

Photos: Mountain Springs Lodge

The lodges at Mountain Springs feel exactly as mountain lodges should: rustic, deeply connected to the history of the land and, at the same time, wonderfully comfortable and homey. Guests warm up around fireplaces encased in rocks extracted from the land, and knotty pine walls and floors are complemented by pine seating and leather sofas. Antlers serve as door handles, and the lodge walls are adorned with old wood skis, snowshoes, saddles, antique rifles and the taxidermied heads of moose, bear and deer.

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mountain Springs Lodge’s rustic beauty with stone fireplace, knotty pine and leather sofas. The lodge offers snowmobile tours, skiing and sleigh rides. The handsome lodge sits on land that WW Burgess bought in 1895.

Mountain Springs Lodge written by Lauren Kramer SITUATED IN a valley at the foothills of the Cascade Mountains, Mountain Springs Lodge is a quintessential log cabin-style lodge that perfectly reflects the wild, rustic nature of its surroundings. Separated from Leavenworth’s bustling downtown by a twenty-five-minute drive on a winding mountain highway, guests at Mountain Springs have access to a 180-acre property filled with meadows, creeks, forests and mountains. It’s an uplifting location where you could hike or ski all day long or just soak in the hot tub and enjoy the scenery.

19115 CHIWAWA LOOP ROAD LEAVENWORTH www.mtsprings.com

84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

AMENITIES Mountain Springs Lodge offers all the touches of comfort and convenience: fast wifi, superbly comfortable beds with great linens, bath robes, flat-screen televisions, in-room fireplaces and expansive bedrooms with vaulted ceilings. Most guests have access to kitchen facilities and a hot tub. A swimming pool, horseshoes and volleyball are available during the summer months, as well as Leavenworth Ziplines, with nine ziplines suspended 190 feet over the Beaver Creek Valley. Located on-site, it is owned and operated by Mountain Springs Lodge. Winter brings sleigh rides, guided snowmobile tours and cross-country skiing on the Nordic ski trail that runs through the property.

HISTORY Mountain Springs Lodge is situated on land that’s been in the Burgess-Newell family since 1895, when WW Burgess, the great-great-grandfather of its present-day proprietors, purchased it for $1,000. Their homestead has been moved from its original site, but it’s still a conspicuous, historic landmark at Beaver Valley and Mountain Springs roads. Until 1990, the land served primarily as horse pasture, alfalfa fields and a vegetable garden. That year, William and Diana Newell realized their dream of creating a series of hospitality-focused lodges using Northwest native woods and local rock. Mountain Springs consists of four lodges and two cabins, all constructed in rustic, log cabin style. Framed photographs of their ancestors, displayed on the walls of Beaver Creek Lodge, offer visitors a glimpse at the challenges of life in the valley 140 years ago.

The First American Single Malt Distilled, aged and bottled in Hood River, Oregon at Clear Creek Distillery.

©2022 Clear Creek® Distillery, Hood River, Oregon USA, McCarthy’s® Oregon Single Malt Whiskey, www.clearcreekdistillery.com, Stay in Control.®

trip planner

Inspire Creative Co.

The largest city on the Kitsap Peninsula, Bremerton is home to the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard and many outdoor adventures.

Escape to Bremerton A Navy town with small-town charm written by Ryn Pfeuffer

BREMERTON IS that low-key, coastal charmer you’ve been sleeping on. Just a quick ferry ride from Seattle, this scenic Navy town on the Kitsap Peninsula offers an easy weekend escape. Whether you’re craving fresh sea air, quirky shops or a chance to slow down and reset, Bremerton delivers a relaxed vibe that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of city life. And if you’re up for a short drive, head to Silverdale or Poulsbo for even more small-town appeal.

86

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Day NAVAL HISTORY • THE WATERFRONT • ART WALK Begin your trip with a one-hour ferry ride from Seattle to Bremerton, where the crisp air and skyline views of Seattle instantly set a relaxing tone.

From October to February, the Southern Resident orcas are often spotted in central Puget Sound, following salmon runs. You might see them from the Bremerton ferry. Transient (marine mammal-eating) orcas may show up at any time of year.

Once you dock, take a stroll along the Bremerton waterfront. If you’re a history buff, your first stop should be the USS Turner Joy, a decommissioned 1950s warship now serving as a floating museum. Wander through its decks, learning about its role in

PORT PORT OF OF BREMERTON B REMERTON MARINAS MARINAS BREME

Brittany Kelley Photography

Bremerton’s Harborside Fountain Park at daytime. At night, the fountains light up for an intriguing experience.

88 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

peaceful spot to relax by the water features and enjoy the skyline reflecting in the whale-inspired copper fountains.

End your evening at the nearby Hampton Inn & Suites, where spacious rooms with waterfront views offer a peaceful retreat.

Rest well.

Day OUTDOOR ADVENTURES • CRAFT BEER Start your day by making the short drive to The Oak Table Café in nearby Silverdale for a truly indulgent start. Its famous apple pancake is a must—baked to fluffy perfection like a 3-inch soufflé filled with hand-cut apples. Pair it with a side of their thick-sliced bacon, which clocks in at over half a pound of smoky, hardwood-grilled goodness.

The Oak Table Café

naval history. Afterward, head to Harborside Fountain Park to watch the playful water fountains—they light up at night, too!

Relax by the fountains or wander through the park’s well-maintained (read: stroller-friendly) walkways.

Next, check out Bremerton Marina, where you can see the boats and yachts docked at the marina and spot harbor seals and other wildlife. Walk along the docks, chat with locals or even rent a kayak for a day out on the water. Don’t miss the Bremerton Boardwalk, where you can enjoy sweeping waterfront views, watch ferries come and go from the terminal and take a short walk while stopping for coffee or seeing local art installations.

By lunchtime, you’ll be craving something delicious. Swing by Café Alara, a charming local spot, and grab a quick sandwich or fresh pastry. Try The Point—rosemary bread slathered with garlic herb spread and stacked with roast beef and Havarti.

Head to Illahee State Park, where easy hikes and pretty views balance its small size. Take the Forest Loop Trail, a relaxing halfmile walk through a peaceful old-growth forest with towering firs. For stunning waterfront shots, the quick Illahee Dock Walk offers incredible views of Puget Sound and Mount Rainier on clear days.

Food-wise, Bremerton’s culinary scene is a tasty blend of casual seafood joints and cozy cafes. Have an early dinner at Boat Shed, a beloved local institution perched over Dyes Inlet. With seafood being their specialty, start with crab and shrimp-stuffed mushrooms and follow it up with their lemon-thyme seared scallops. As the sun sets over the inlet, there’s no better place to sip on a glass of local wine.

Then, for a dose of local culture, explore the First Friday Art Walk, where you can meander through a handful of galleries showcasing works from regional artists. (It runs from 5-8 p.m.) Just around the corner, Harborside Fountain Park offers a

The apple pancake at The Oak Table Café in Silverdale, just outside of Bremerton.

Photo by Pete Saloutos | Location: Gazzam Lake Trail

Celebrate the Sun!

Join us for a weekend of family fun at the Sequim Sunshine Festival where we will shake off the winter blues and celebrate the coming of the spring and summer seasons with a color run, drone show, art projects, food, music, and more in Sunny Sequim, Washington!

h 6t ual n An

March 7 & 8, 2025

sequimsunshinefestival.com visitsunnysequim.com 1-800-737-8462

Boat Shed

Ridgeline Brewing

EAT 4 Sisters Phở www.facebook.com/4sisterspho Bay Street Coffee Co. www.facebook.com/ BayStreetCoffeeCo Boat Shed www.boatshedmenu.com Café Alara www.cafealara.com Island Hut www.facebook.com/@islandhut808 The Oak Table Café www.oaktablecafesilverdale.com Ridgeline Brewing www.ridgelinebrewing.com

Erinn J. Hale Photography

BREMERTON, WASHINGTON

trip planner

STAY Hampton Inn www.hilton.com/en/hotels/ pwtwahx-hampton-suitesbremerton

PLAY Bug & Reptile Museum www.bugmuseum.com First Friday Art Walk www.bremertonfirstfriday.org Green Mountain— Gold Creek Trail www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ green-mountain-1 Illahee Preserve Heritage Park www.kitsapgov.com/parks/Pages/ IllaheePreserveHeritagePark.aspx Illahee State Park www.parks.wa.gov/find-parks/ state-parks/illahee-state-park Pacific Planetarium www.pacificplanetarium.com USS Turner Joy (DD-951) Naval Destroyer Museum Ship www.ussturnerjoy.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Grab a local craft beer at Ridgeline Brewing in Bremerton.

Great views and seafood at Boat Shed on the Manette Waterfront in Bremerton. The USS Turner Joy, a 1950s warship that now serves as a floating museum.

After breakfast, head out for an outdoor adventure at Green Mountain State Forest, just a twenty-five-minute drive from Bremerton. The 5-mile round-trip hike from the Gold Creek trailhead to the summit is a solid workout with stunning views of Puget Sound and Seattle at the top.

Madrona trees line the path as you wind through the forest, but remember, this is a working forest, so occasional logging closures can happen. If you’re traveling with a four-legged friend, they’re welcome to join, but keep them leashed.

If you time your visit just right, Seabeck at low tide is an unforgettable experience.

Also just a twenty-five-minute drive away, this charming spot is perfect for beachcombing. Wander along the shoreline looking for seashells and sea creatures, with plenty of time to explore before and after low tide.

For a laid-back, delicious dinner, head to Island Hut, a family-owned Hawaiian spot serving up Spam musubi, loco moco bowls and $12 mix plates featuring rice, mac salad, char siu chicken, beef teriyaki and kalua pork with cabbage.

Later, drop by Ridgeline Brewing for small-batch craft beers. The cozy, welcoming atmosphere makes it easy to settle in—especially with a pint of their chocolate-forward

90 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Dark Side of the Brew porter, a perfect pairing for pub snacks like tater tots and jalapeño poppers. Don’t be surprised if you join a lively cribbage game or trivia night.

Day FAMILY FUN • PHỞ Jump-start your morning with a caffeine kick at Bay Street Coffee Co., where friendly, longtime baristas whip up house-made flavored whipped cream to top your brew.

Afterward, escape the winter gloom with a visit to the Bug & Reptile Museum, where young nature lovers can marvel at live snakes, lizards and a massive, 8-foot ant farm. Don’t miss Angela, the Brazilian rainbow boa!

Then, swing by the Pacific Planetarium for a family-friendly show on the night sky, or let your little ones join the Astronauts in Training.

Cap off your day with a steaming bowl of phở at 4 Sisters Phở, leaving you with a cozy warmth and a deep sense of contentment.

Bottom line: Bremerton’s the perfect spot for a quick getaway where you can breathe easy, take in local history and soak up that irresistible small-town vibe.

Gift Washington Discover the best of the Evergreen State with a subscription to 1889 Washington’s Magazine. Local getaways, destination dining, DIY projects and more!

Purchase a gift subscription and SAVE 50% off cover price Subscribe today at www.1889mag.com/gift

northwest destination

Mount Hood

The center of Oregon’s winter playground, Mount Hood is the perfect getaway written by Ryn Pfeuffer TUCKED IN the backcountry of Cooper Spur Mountain Resort, the Crooked Tree Tavern & Grill offers a rustic cabin atmosphere that sets the tone for a delightful getaway. Choose from hearty breakfast options like fluff y pancakes or veggiepacked omelets made with ingredients (mostly) sourced from local farmers and ranchers within a 30-mile radius.

After fueling up, make your way to Trillium Lake, located just 7.5 miles south-southwest of Mount Hood. This stunning location offers a different charm depending on the season. It’s a popular snowshoeing and cross-country skiing destination from late December through early March. Grab your sno-park permit for easy access if you’re visiting during these months. For those visiting in warmer months, early mornings on the 2-mile loop trail here are magical—with glassy waters reflecting the majestic Mount Hood.

After spending the morning in nature, it’s time for lunch in Government Camp at Mt. Hood Brewing Company. Established in 1991, this beloved local watering hole brews its beer using Pacific Northwestern hops and pure glacial water from

Mount Hood. Don’t miss the MHBC chicken wings seasoned with a five-spice Cajun dry rub, and pair them with an ice-cold Cloudcap Amber. There’s an excellent kids’ menu if you’re traveling with family.

Next, immerse yourself in history with a visit to Timberline Lodge, an iconic 1930s landmark made famous by The Shining.

The lodge is not only a historical site but also a hub for outdoor activities. Grab a ticket for the year-round Palmer Glacier ski slopes, or lace up your hiking boots to explore the Pacific Crest Trail right from the lodge. With an impressive 4,540 vertical feet of skiing, Timberline boasts the longest ski season in the U.S., making it a must-visit for slope-loving sports enthusiasts.

As the day winds down, treat yourself to a fine dining experience at the Cascade Dining Room within Timberline Lodge.

This elegant, wood-lined restaurant offers stunning mountain views and a menu featuring dishes like smoked pork chops with popcorn grits and roasted steelhead paired with braised fennel.

Complement your meal with a glass of local Oregon wine, and enjoy the serene atmosphere as the sun sets over the mountains.

92

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Timberline Lodge

One of Oregon’s historic gems and classic WPA achievements, Timberline Lodge was visited by FDR after its completion in 1937.

MOUNT HOOD, OREGON

Timberline Lodge

northwest destination

EAT Cascade Dining Room www.timberlinelodge.com Cathedral Ridge Winery www.cathedralridgewinery.com Crooked Tree Tavern & Grill www.cooperspur.com Marchesi Vineyards www.marchesivineyards.com Mt. Hood Brewing Company www.mthoodbrewing.com Mt. Hood Roasters www.mthoodroasters.com New York City Sub Shop www.nycss.com/locations/ hood-river

Travel Oregon

STAY Mt. Hood Tiny House Village www.mthoodtinyhouse.com

PLAY Art on Oak www.artonoak.com Doug’s Hood River www.dougshoodriver.com Ramona Falls www.alltrails.com/trail/us/ oregon/ramona-falls-trail Tamanawas Falls www.alltrails.com/trail/us/ oregon/tamanawas-falls-trail Timberline Lodge www.timberlinelodge.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mount Hood has some of the state’s best ski facilities. A moderate hike brings visitors to the stunning Tamanawas Falls. Mt. Hood Brewing Company is home to creative and outstanding craft beers after a day outdoors.

After dinner, retreat to the Mt. Hood Tiny House Village for a unique overnight experience. Each home provides a cozy retreat, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration.

The following day, grab a quick bite and locally roasted brew from Mt. Hood Roasters in Rhododendron. Their tamales and savory scones make for a delicious breakfast on the go.

Once you’re properly caffeinated, set out for a waterfall tour.

You can choose between the moderately challenging 7-mile hike to Ramona Falls, where cascading waters flow through old-growth forests, or the shorter 3.4-mile trek to Tamanawas Falls, showcasing a 100-foot waterfall—both waterfalls are breathtaking.

If you’re visiting during the warmer months, consider packing a picnic from New York City Sub Shop. Their submarinestyle sandwiches are great for lakeside dining, especially if you head to Lost Lake for kayaking or paddleboarding. Rent

Trillium Lake www.fs.usda.gov

a kayak early to enjoy a peaceful, crowd-free experience on the water.

In the afternoon, explore the charming town of Hood River, known for its boutique shopping. Visit Doug’s Hood River for outdoor gear or fall in love with a one-of-a-kind glass, wood, fiber, metal, painting or ceramics piece at artist-owned Art on Oak. Don’t forget to check out vintage shops like Precious Drab Vintage or Ice Cream for Crow Vintage for unique finds.

Wind down your getaway with a delightful winery tour in Hood River’s wine country. Marchesi Vineyards offers tastings of rich Italian varietals with views of Mount Hood, while Cathedral Ridge Winery provides a more intimate tasting experience with award-winning reds.

Before heading out, take a short walk to Panther Creek Falls, where tiered cascades create a dramatic finale to your Mount Hood getaway.

DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 93

1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Port Angeles Townsend Sequim

Forks

Shelton Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Cathlamet

Kelso Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Prosser

White Salmon Vancouver

94

Richland

Mount Adams

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

16 Lake Chelan Winterfest

44 Point of View

78

Ye Olde Curiosity Shop

17 Nuu-Muu

50 Peace Peloton

80

Methow Valley

26 Killian Korn

84

Mountain Springs Lodge

27 Wildflour

86

USS Turner Joy

28 Whidbey Island Seafood Company

92

Mount Hood, Oregon

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE DECEMBER | JANUARY 2024

Asotin

Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or find one at DiscoverTheForest.org.

Until Next Time Snow falls and crunches underfoot during a Snoqualmie Pass snowshoeing trek. photo by Lisette Wolter-McKinley

23 DEC, 2023

CANADA’S MOST AFFORDABLE

S K I - IN , S K I - O U T R E S O R T GUARANTEED SNOW

VAST TERRAIN

NO LINE UPS

CANADA’S LARGEST

24.5ft Average Annual Snowfall

7,759 Acres 119 Runs & 16 Lifts

Second Largest Lift Capacity in Canada

Totally Ski-In, Ski-Out Resort Village

CURRENCY EXCHANGE $1.00 USD $1.40 CAD

CONVERSION RATE AS OF NOVEMBER 13, 2024

2

ND

NEW NONSTOP AIR SERVICE FROM SEATTLE BE ON SNOW IN JUST OVER 2 HOURS

SNOWSHOEING

UNIQUE DINING EXPERIENCES

4

ICE SKATING

DOG-SLEDDING

READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS BEST CANADIAN SKI RESORT

2024

PRIVATE HOT TUB APARTMENTS

BOOK DIRECT & SAVE WITH CENTRAL RESERVATIONS ACCOMMODATION • LIFTS • SKI SCHOOL • RENTALS 1-800 - 663-2772

cenres@bigwhite.com

BIGWHITE.COM

Start your journey right

choose Paine Field

www.painefield.com

Continue for Special Insert

HOT SPRINGS • SPAS • FINE DINING • WORLD-CLASS GOLF • WELLNESS RETREATS • CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING • COASTAL LODGES

Pack your taste buds for adventure.

From Sunriver to Black Butte, Bend and beyond, the opportunity to find something different and delectable in Central Oregon is deliciously endless.

To learn more and plan your next vacation, go to visitcentraloregon.com.

Find your center

Juniper Preserve on the outskirts of Bend is a natural high desert setting with unparalleled luxury for the perfect re-grounding. (photo: Martin Sundberg/ Juniper Preserve)

Body & Mind

RETREAT GUIDE

W

orking from home has its benefits—no commute, less stress, flexibility without compromising productivity. At the same time, the home is no longer a respite from work when it’s only one room away. Work from home, but hit reset somewhere where work is a four-letter word. Leave hectic behind, and book your total recharge at the PNW resort that puts your mind at ease.

The most common human impulse is to run to water for a zen-like primal homecoming; to make headway for trails to immerse in nature, recreation and health; and to seek out spas where the mind slows and the body lets its shoulders down.

We stroll across Oregon, Washington and British Columbia to bring you some destinations where you can choose the best place for you to set your mind and body at ease.

A publication of Statehood Media

Cover: Sagecliffe Resort & Spa

www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com

(photo: Sagecliffe Resort & Spa)

2024 DESTINATION RESORTS

3

Find Water OREGON

HEADLANDS COASTAL LODGE & SPA In an Oregon coastal town synonymous with surf and beauty, Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa overlooks it all on the sandy shores of Pacific City. At the lodge, you’ll find unmatched luxury on the Oregon Coast, a hot tub overlooking the Pacific and a restaurant that serves crab cakes, steamer clams and pan-seared halibut, to name a few dishes.

Outside of the lodge, you’ll encounter a perfect surf break, the iconic 330-foot sea stack called Haystack, award-winning beach brewery Pelican Brewing Company and miles of walkable and swimmable beaches.

Be sure to book your spa treatments ahead at Tidepools Spa. On its vast menu, you’ll find an organic kelp wrap, a ginger and hot stone massage and a sea salt scrub, among many other options. At Headlands Lodge, be as selfish as you need to reset your body and mind for the fall and winter.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

AINSWORTH HOT SPRINGS Four hours north of Spokane and adjacent to Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort in British Columbia, owned by the Ktunaxa First Nations people, was recently ranked as one of Condé Nast Traveler’s best wellness retreats in the world. The air is clean and the water rejuvenating. The natural springs come up from deep in the earth and surface to cooled temperatures of 108 degrees into the 150-foot-long, horseshoe-shaped natural cave and to 96 degrees for the main pool.

4

DESTINATION RESORTS 2024

Given the nearby Selkirk range, opportunities for winter fun abounds. Both Whitewater Ski Resort and RED Mountain Resort are within a one-totwo-hour drive, respectively.

If you’re an advanced skier, Snowwater heli-skiing operates out of Nelson, just 30 miles south. In winter, nothing feels more healing than Ainsworth’s mineral-rich soaking waters after a long day skiing.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

LONG BEACH LODGE RESORT If you want the complete retreat, go big and head north.

If you were inspired by the new Olympic sport, surfing, this place is for you. In the small town of Tofino, surfing has become the raison d’être. With 35 kilometers of sandy beaches, consistent waves, surf shops and lessons, Tofino is no longer an oddball playground for beach

FROM TOP Ainsworth Hot Springs in British Columbia offers a warm soak overlooking Kootenay Lake. A room with a view of Haystack Rock at Headlands Coastal Lodge in Pacific City. (photos, from top: Destination BC/Kari Medig, Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa)

culture. Your timing is good, because the best months for waves are in the fall.

Find yourself at Long Beach Lodge Resort, where you can take part in on-site surf lessons, rentals and an oceanfront retreat with beach yoga. You have options when it comes to dining—from the casual sandwiches and beer at The Surf Club to lemongrass noodle

salad and Cox Bay chowder at The Great Room, sitting in front of a stone fireplace and overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Add to that an outdoor hot pool and cedar sauna, and you’ll have an extraordinary experience.

If surfing sounds too wet for your sense of being, head to the nearby Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, where you’ll find many trails and stunning beauty.

YE AR - R OU N D E NJ O Y MEN T

Experience our hot springs pools, cave and Spirit Water Spa. Savour culinary specialties created by Executive Chef Cory Chapman at the Ktunaxa Grill.

ainsworthhotsprings.com

Time Here is Time Well Spent Encompassing 3,300 forested acres moments from Bend, Oregon, Sunriver Resort is the Pacific Northwest’s treasured outpost for all-season adventure. Tee off on one of our four golf courses, swim year-round at our aquatics center, and hit the slopes on nearby Mt. Bachelor.

Now is the time to make new traditions at Sunriver Resort.

Adventure is always in season. For more information visit SunriverResort.com.

Find Trails

Find a Cabin A classic. Paradise Inn at Mount Rainier is another part of the charm and adventure awaiting guests. (photo: Deby Dixon/ State of Washington Tourism)

OREGON

MEREDITH LODGING ON THE OREGON COAST Choose a modern cabin on or near the Pacific Ocean as your reset. Meredith Lodging has properties along the best spots on the Oregon Coast such as Manzanita, Cannon Beach, Pacific City, Neskowin and Netarts, to name a few.

From properties with pools to fireplaces and ocean views, find the vibe and coastal cabin that will quickly get you to your zen place, and book it through Meredith’s website.

OREGON

SUNRIVER RESORT Sunriver is a resort masquerading as a small town at the foot of the Cascades.

Oregon’s original destination resort, Sunriver is classic but always fresh. The mother of all resorts, Sunriver sits on 3,300 acres of tree-lined trails, has four golf courses, a central lodge, vacation properties to rent, a shopping village, restaurants, bars, a spa and fitness center, an observatory and a new $40 million aquatic center. There are paved trails to hike and bike in Sunriver and lovely unpaved trails along the Deschutes River and into the Deschutes National Forest. Look for ski-and-stay deals come winter, when Mt. Bachelor is covered in feet of snow.

OREGON

BLACK BUTTE RANCH Black Butte has long been a generational retreat for Pacific Northwesterners and never needed to do too much to maintain its allure. Last year, however, the 54-year-old resort unveiled a new elegant modern lodge with blonde wood finishes, three fireplaces, a restaurant, bar and gasping views of the Three Sisters peaks. In fall, hike the steep trail to the top of Black Butte. Come winter, cross-country skiing and downhill skiing are

8

DESTINATION RESORTS 2024

nearby at Hoodoo Ski Area, just 15 miles up the road.

After a day on the trails, indulge your senses in the spa at Black Butte.

A Thai foot massage or its signature body massage is well deserved.

WASHINGTON

MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK Everyone’s dream escape, Rainier is best in the fall and winter, as the crowds dissipate and the beauty of Mount Rainier comes to the fore. Fall hikes and huckleberry and mushroom picking are top choices for visits to the park that hosts Washington’s tallest peak at 14,410 feet and more than 100 hikes for all abilities. Book your rooms at the historic Paradise Inn, one of the Great Lodges of the West. It was built in 1917 and retains all of the charm from that era. Likewise, National Park Inn was built in the early 1900s, but on a smaller scale—twenty-five cozy guest rooms. One of its greatest charms is having tea next to its roaring fire in the guest library after snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.

Down the mountain, at the foot of Mount Rainier and cozied up in the woods, is Wellspring Spa. You can book a massage or private hot tub in a truly natural world, and leave the other world far behind.

WASHINGTON

FORT WORDEN HISTORICAL STATE PARK On the northeast coast of the Olympic Peninsula and the northern edge of Port Townsend, Fort Worden Historical State Park offers a world of possibilities. There are 12 miles of forested hiking trails, 2 miles of walkable beaches, 8 miles of biking trails, views of the Olympic Mountains and the Puget Sound, campsites and cabins.

History buffs will want to see the home of Rear Admiral John Lorimer Worden, commander of the first ironclad Navy warship, the USS Monitor.

Worden sailed the Monitor into a battle that would change the course of the Civil War and Naval history.

Movie buffs will recognize Fort Worden from scenes in An Officer and a Gentleman, Richard Gere’s 1982 breakout movie.

Foodies will appreciate The Guardhouse Pub, a pub setting with beer, wine and fresh salads and sandwiches; Reveille Café with its Reveille Ruben and breakfast sandwiches; or a picnic snack from Cablehouse Canteen.

Experience the Oregon Coast through a number of coastal properties of Meredith Lodging.

Celebrate Autumn and the Holidays with us Join us at Mount Rainier National Park to celebrate Autumn and the Holidays. It’s the perfect way to enjoy the vibrant colors and the crisp air of Autumn. Observe the fascinating world of mushrooms while you are hiking, sample a delightful selection of craft beer and ciders from local breweries, and capture the beauty of the season with stunning photo opportunities all around the park. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast or just looking for a fun weekend getaway, there’s something for everyone. Engage in interactive activities and learn about the diverse ecosystem of Mount Rainier.

Meet fellow nature lovers and share your love for the outdoors. Don’t miss this unique opportunity, celebrate with us at Mount Rainier National Park and make unforgettable memories!

DiscoverMountRainier.com Hotel Reservations: (855) 755-2275 PARADISE INN 52807 Paradise Road E

NATIONAL PARK INN 47009 Paradise Road E

Ashford, WA 98304 Visit our website for availability.

Dates and times for our holiday specials are available online.

MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

125

TH ANNIVERSARY 1899 - 2024

Find a Spa

Sagecliffe Resort & Spa has a number of stunning paradigms for lodging in the high desert of central Washington, including overlooking a vineyard. (photo: Sagecliffe Resort & Spa)

10

OREGON

WASHINGTON

TETHEROW RESORT

SAGECLIFFE RESORT & SPA

The only destination in Bend proper, Tetherow has its advantages. Golf has been the premier attraction since Scotsman David McLay Kidd turned a sea of sagebrush into one of the country’s top courses. On this hard and fast links course, your ball may roll forever, but don’t fret as you’ll have the option to chase it down on a golfboard, or motorized surfboard designed for golf courses.

Tetherow jumps to number 57 on Golf Digest’s top courses list this year.

Tetherow also has a full spa, pool, restaurants and a bar that serves scotch eggs. Not to mention, Bend and Mt. Bachelor are at your doorstep. This retreat can be one remembered for its recreation or one fondly recalled for indulgence in creature comforts, or both.

Let yourself go in wine country in central Washington. In a truly majestic setting, Sagecliffe Resort & Spa is a luxury retreat that has a spa, fantastic lodging options, a heated outdoor pool, tennis and pickleball courts, firepits adjacent to the Sagecliff Fox & Quail Whiskey Bar and a locavore restaurant with thin-crust pizzas from the pizza oven.

The Cliffehouse suites come with soaking tubs overlooking the Columbia River Gorge.

Extravagant Desert Yurts are no less spectacular with views of the vineyard or the Columbia River Gorge and skylights to gaze into the night skies above your bed.

The full-service spa can re-center you through its many offerings, from massages to facials and body scrubs. All this in a high desert setting that itself is a postcard!

DESTINATION RESORTS 2024

Relax and reconnect at Juniper Spa at Central Oregon’s Juniper Preserve. (photo: Martin Sundberg/Juniper Preserve)

OREGON

JUNIPER PRESERVE Long known as Pronghorn and as a golf mecca in Central Oregon, the resort was rebranded as Juniper Preserve in 2022, a nod to its new ethos as a wellness retreat. The world-class courses designed

by Nicklaus and Fazio still play well, but it’s the new spa and wellness retreats that are

quickly becoming the jewel of this high desert resort. Add to that the trails and 2,900 acres, and Juniper Preserve is a world apart from the bustle of nearby downtown Bend.

This fall and winter, try upcoming retreats, while taking time to hit local breweries during fresh-hop season.

Return to Juniper Preserve’s heated pools, followed by dinner and cocktails.

There is a place

Stay and Play Packages available at BlackButteRanch.com

The components for a great romantic weekend are all here–mountain views, quiet serenity, time to reflect.

If adventures are more your style, we’re the perfect jumping off place for year round outdoor activities: ski, hike, bike, ride, swim, soak...and then head to the Spa. Enjoy a glass of wine by the fire, while you take in the panoramic mountain views. Discover all the ways to love BBR.

BLACKBUTTERANCH.COM

866.242.5532

Bill Origer

View packages at BlackButteRanch.com.

866-242-5532 BlackButteRanch.com