TRIP PLANNER: NEWBERG PG. 84
Minty-Fresh Local Recipes
Truffle Hunting + Must-Try Ramen
Park City, Utah, Brings the Pow
Small Towns TO EXPLORE in 2025
SNOWSHOE PICNICS FROM CRATER LAKE TO MOUNT HOOD
1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until February 28, 2025
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EXPLORE
OREGON
January | February
volume 90
Lively. WWW.THEGORDONHOTEL.COM
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Let It Snow
Gritchelle Fallesgon/Visit Central Oregon
Oregon’s top places to snowshoe and have a picnic. Why not? (pg. 78)
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Central Oregon abounds with scenic snowshoeing locations.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3
Joseph’s Main Street is backed by the Wallowa Mountains.
FEATURES JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025 • volume 90
52 From Joseph to Jacksonville Seven quintessential small towns around Oregon to visit this year.
60
68
Spray Notice
The Art of Kintsugi
The role of herbicides in Oregon’s forests and why we need a new paradigm.
Imbuing flaws with deeper meaning and beauty—we explore Naoko Fukumaru’s work at Portland’s Japanese Garden.
written by Daniel O’Neil
written by Kerry Newberry 4
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Wallowa County Chamber of Commerce
written by Jean Chen Smith
RAIN, RAIN, COME AND PLAY.
Next Level Pinball Museum
FIND THE FUN
etvor.com/cozy70
Don’t let the rainy season get you down. Level up at one of our many arcades, escape rooms or entertainment centers. Find the fun in Tualatin Valley, just west of Portland, and get your game on this winter.
TUALATINVALLEY.ORG/COZY
DEPARTMENTS JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025 • volume 90
25
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
Fishtrap’s Big Read; Brad Parsons’ bluesy homecoming; reimagined lockdown drills?
20 FOOD + DRINK
Oregon truffle culture; ramen; pairing beer and chocolate.
26 FARM TO TABLE Oregon’s mint farmers. Heather Amistad/Takibi
32 HOME + DESIGN
Reimagining the urban condo in Portland.
42 MIND + BODY
Pilates for healing and strength.
44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Lidia Yuknavitch brings water and fluidity to her writing.
90
22
THINK 48 MY WORKSPACE Glass artist Andy Paiko.
50 GAME CHANGER
Kathryn Elsesser/Oregon Truffle Festival
Dan Campbell Photography/Visit Park City
SAGE Center, Boardman.
12 Editor’s Letter 13 1859 Online 94 Map of Oregon 96 Until Next Time
COVER
photo by Ian Shive/TandemStock.com Crater Lake National Park (see Adventure, pg. 78)
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
EXPLORE 76 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
M. Crow mercantile, Lostine.
78 ADVENTURE
The best places for snowshoe picnics.
82 LODGING
Brasada Ranch in Central Oregon.
84 TRIP PLANNER Newberg.
90 NW DESTINATION Park City, Utah.
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CONTRIBUTORS
JAMES SINKS Writer Trip Planner
AMY WIKE Illustrator Home + Design DIY
JULIE LEE Writer Farm to Table
TAMBI LANE Photographer Homegrown Chef
“In the 1970s, Newberg earned the nickname as the Scorpion Capital of the Northwest, the result of a local store selling the critters as exotic pets. It was a short-lived venture, but I confess I kept looking nervously for them during a visit to the Yamhill County community, which is in the midst of a wine-fueled renaissance. Now, happily, when picking one’s poison here, it’s the delicious liquid sort.” (pg. 84)
“My colorful and energetic style is inspired by small joys and finding delight in the everyday. Through my work, I hope to encourage appreciation of the human experience, whether it be by celebrating the daily occurrences we sometimes take for granted or the natural beauty that surrounds us. Reconnecting with family photos fits perfectly with this mentality, and it was a treat to illustrate!” (pg. 38)
James Sinks is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer who loves looking for stories across the Pacific Northwest. He lives in Salem with (hopefully) no scary bugs.
Amy Wike is a freelance illustrator who has been creating custom artwork for individual and corporate clients since 2017. Based in Portland, she enjoys offering watercolor classes to local audiences and participating in markets around the Pacific Northwest.
“Whenever I think of mint, the first thing that comes to mind is a mojito, of course. However, it turns out that mint is in everything, everywhere—it’s in our toothpaste, beauty products, digestion medications and pain-relief aids. Oregon farmers produce a bounty of mint oil and mint leaves, and I was fortunate to interview both Mark Ward, an Oregon peppermint oil entrepreneur, and Mike Macy, who grows the mint in my mojitos, for this issue’s Farm to Table column. Both also happen to be Oregon potato farmer friends as well.” (pg. 26)
“After photographing a second cookbook, I knew it was time to transition from portraits and running a full-time studio to photographing food. Collaboration has been a favorite part of photography for me, and working in a new genre gave me an opportunity to create with many new and talented people. My favorite perk of them all, and the answer to the most-asked question, is yes! I usually do get to taste all of the dishes I photograph, and who doesn’t love that!” (pg. 30)
8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Julie Lee is a longtime columnist for 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and director of PR for Little Bird Media. When not interviewing farmers and fishermen, she chills in Portland with her husband and English bully.
With nearly two decades of experience in photography, Tambi Lane is a food and beverage photographer in Bend. She enjoys time with her family and two French bulldogs.
Looking for a new tradition? We’d love to apply. Sisters is your winter escape to get away from it all.
The Old West, All Grown Up
exploresisters.com
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Alyson Brown, Christopher Dibble, Jeff Hehlen, Joni Kabana, Tambi Lane, Daniel O’Neil, Lori Rowland, Ian Shive, James Stolen
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Amy Wike
Headquarters
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592 N. Sisters Park Ct. Suite B Sisters, OR 97759
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Oregon’s Grant County — Natural Beauty. Rich History.
Sheep Rock is a 6,847 ft (2,087 m) high summit and a landmark of the area. It consists of two separate layers of basalt contrasting with each other. This formation was named after the bighorn sheep, which used to populate the rocky landscape.
Unique
Explore the Age of Mammals at the world renowned John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, open yearround. There are seven hiking trails in the Sheep Rock Unit of the Fossil Beds, ranging from 0.25 miles to 3.25 miles in length, that take you through stunning geologic formations. The Interpretive center gives you the opportunity to explore dioramas depicting the ancient history of the area, view actual fossils, and watch archaeologists at work. (For more information please visit www.nps. gov/joda/index.htm)
on m m o c n U
History comes alive at the DeWitt Museum & Depot Park, Kam Wah Chung Museum & State Heritage Site, Grant County Historical Museum, Grant County Ranch & Rodeo Museum, and the Cant Ranch Historic Home & Museum. Enjoy alpine lakes like Magone Lake, Strawberry Lake, and Olive Lake. Grant County is a truly unique and one-of-a-kind region with geologic formations, rivers, basalt rimrocks, mountains, deserts, forests, wildflowers and wildlife. Stay in one of 50+ unique AirBnB’s or hotels. Enjoy any of the local eateries, breweries and shops in the small towns of Grant County.
Amazing
Outdoor adventures are abundant in Grant County— hiking, camping, fishing, snowmobiling, cycling (whether bicycle or motorcycle), bird or animal watching and scenic drives. There are some amazing attractions that can only be found here in Grant County! Arch Rock, the Cedar Grove Botanical Area, the Humongous Fungus, and Strawberry Wilderness. In August, head to the county fair & rodeo where the concert features a well know band! There is one thing that Grant County does not have—the crowds and commercialization that so many of Oregon’s more populated areas suffer.
Dream. Explore. Discover.
Canyon City • Dayville • Granite • John Day • Long Creek Prairie City • Monument • Mt Vernon • Seneca
Grant COUnty OREGON ChamBER OF ComMERCE
301 W Main, John Day, OR • 541-575-0547 • www.GCOregonLive.com PHOTOS: BRIAN SANDERSFELD, ELOISE BOREN
FROM THE
EDITOR
WE BEGIN the new year with our Best Places issue. Start this year with seven of Oregon’s best small towns to put on your bucket list for 2025 (pg. 52). They vary as widely as the mountainencircled art and farming enclave of Joseph to the perfectly historic town of Jacksonville, where wine and music play together nicely. We move into a portfolio of Oregon’s best places to create a snowshoe picnic. Learn about what to pack and where to go from Adventure on page 78. One niche but hot experience right now is hunting truffles by dog. On page 22, we explore the places and outfitters you need to unearth these pungent prizes. From best to worst, in “Spray Notice” (pg. 60), we turn our attention to how herbicides are being used in Oregon forests right now. Long the practice of commercial forestry, we look at the ecological and health implications and the alternatives articulated by some of the top authorities in Pacific Northwest forestry.
12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Our Homegrown Chef (pg. 30) churns a good tale of butter, a pocketful of quarters and Elvis to save the wedding day of two young admirers. Learn why and how to make your own maître d’hôtel butter, when just plain Tillamook is not enough. Our Trip Planner (pg. 84) takes us into Newberg, a cornerstone in the Willamette Valley wine scene, the childhood home of Herbert Hoover and a follow-on winery of filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola. Speaking of films, Park City is the subject of our Northwest Destination (pg. 90) and also home to the famed Sundance Film Festival, at least until 2027, when it will change venues. Until then, enjoy both the famous and the fluff for which this Wasatch Range hovel is best known. We only ask that, if you must go, go in style with a black truffle and walnut Manhattan in hand. You can find the recipe in this issue’s Cocktail Card on page 25. Cheers!
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/ postcard photo by Jim Wilson Sunset in The Dalles.
EN TO TER WIN !
Natalie Puls
NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and 1889 Washington’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/statehood mediadigital
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JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Christopher Dibble
NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 26 HOME + DESIGN 32 MIND + BODY 42 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44
pg. 32 Downsizing and upscaling for an empty nester urban condo.
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos written by Cathy Carroll
Day Hiking Columbia River Gorge Plan leisurely strolls close to town, all-day treks and extended trips near Portland and Vancouver. This guide to 115 hikes, updated and expanded with color photos, details accessible trails, historical destinations, wildflowers, waterfalls, old-growth forests and sunny, rolling hills. Routes are rated for quality, crowds and difficulty with icons for kid- and dog-friendly routes. The chart to compare outings, plus driving directions and GPS coordinates, helps, too. www.bit.ly/hikingcolumbiarivergorge
Single-Ingredient Pet Treats Some of the best food you can give your dog or cat is made in Portland. Northwest Naturals is owned by Morasch Meats, a family company providing meat to restaurants, grocery stores and independent retailers since 1956. Their high-quality pet products include freeze-dried raw treats that are easy to use and satisfy lovable carnivores’ cravings. Advanced technologies in the company’s 90,000-square-foot facility produce delicious food for humans as well as pets. www.nw-naturals.net
Fishtrap’s The Big Read: Oregon’s Labor Movement
Fishtrap
Roberta “Bobbie” Conner, the director of the Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, will present “Indigenous People, Class, and Land” in January.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Fishtrap events online and in Enterprise are focusing on workers. January 16: “Unabashed, Unafraid, Unashamed: Women Fighters on the Front Line of Oregon’s Labor Movement” with activist and historian Moe Bowstern. January 23: Heather Mayer, author of Beyond the Rebel Girl: Women and the Industrial Workers of the World in the Pacific Northwest, 1905-1924. January 30: “Indigenous People, Class, and Land” with Roberta “Bobbie” Conner of the Tamástslikt Cultural Institute. www.fishtrap.org/tbr-2025
Honey Mama’s
notebook
Gameday Boots
Nutrient-Rich Superfood Chocolate Don’t wait for Valentine’s Day for great chocolate. Heed Honey Mama’s invitation: “Imagine your favorite candy bar went to a meditation retreat and came back enlightened.” Indulge in rich bars with the texture of brownie batter, chocolate truffles and fudge. They’re made in Portland, having debuted at farmers markets a decade ago, and are made with organic ingredients sourced mainly from Oregon suppliers—no refined sugar, dairy, gluten or soy.
If you love the University of Oregon and the Ducks right down to your toes, express it with boots emblazoned with the iconic “O” logo. The Western kicks, in ivory or distressed brown leather, are handcrafted with a green “O” embroidered on the shaft and with a memory foam insole. Along with the green-and-yellow rubber boots, you’ll stay comfy while tailgating or two-stepping through all championship seasons. www.gamedayboots.com/ teams/oregon
www.honeymamas.com
Organic Protein Oats Leave it to the wholesome-minded at Bob’s Red Mill to naturally power up their organic oatmeal with protein—no protein powder added. Organic Protein Oats are a special hull-less variety, packing 9 grams of protein (versus 6 grams in regular rolled oats) in each serving. They also produce nearly 50 percent less carbon emissions. Top with nuts and maple syrup, and enjoy local deliciousness from this employee-owned company, founded in Milwaukie in 1978. www.bobsredmill.com
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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notebook
Kacey Parsons
Brad Parsons left home and returned to roots of indie bluesy folk, with a hint of gospel.
Musician
Turning Life Into Songs Brad Parsons’ bluesy Americana is rooted in the church, grunge and beyond
Listen on Spotify
written by Ben Salmon
BRAD PARSONS grew up in the Lewis Clark Valley, which straddles the border between Washington and Idaho about an hour’s drive north of Oregon’s northeast corner. More specifically, he grew up in the church where his dad was a preacher. There, he was introduced to the concept of making music for people by singing hymns and gospel standards in front of the congregation. At home, he was hearing secular music, too: Paul Simon, Bruce Springsteen and other giants of folk, pop and rock ‘n’ roll. Some things, though, were off-limits. “Even though we listened to a lot of church music, we listened to a lot of ‘not church’ music, too,” he said. “But (my parents) didn’t want me listening to the grunge bands. She thought they were depressing or evil or something.” Kids hear music their parents don’t want them to hear all the time, of course, and Parsons is no different. Eventually, he found his way to Nirvana and Pearl Jam and Soundgarden, all of whom were making world-changing noise way over on the other side of Washington. “When I was 10 or 11, Weird Al (Yankovic) put out that parody of a Nirvana song, and my parents would actually let me listen to Weird Al,” he said. “I was like, ‘Well, I have to hear the real version of this band’ because I thought it was so cool.” 18
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
With his musical foundation more or less set, Parsons moved to Portland in 2008, where he was an active participant in the city’s vibrant folk and indie rock scene for a decade. He then spent a couple years in Atlanta, Georgia, but is now back in Oregon—this time on the coast, in Astoria—where he is working to channel a lifetime of musical interests and influences into his own songs. You can hear the results of those efforts on his 2023 album Slowpoke, a collection of songs that are twangy and bluesy and catchy and poignant, sometimes all at once. At various points within its half-hour runtime, Parsons sounds like a long-lost stylistic cousin to legendary singer-songwriter Steve Earle, Southern roots band Hiss Golden Messenger, country-rock giants DriveBy Truckers and bluesy storyteller Todd Snider, among others. There’s even a hint—OK, more than a hint—of the gospel and soul music of Parsons’ youth running through his tuneful brand of Americana. “It’s funny how I’ve been coming back around to that kind of music,” he said. “I think as you get older, you try to incorporate all the things you’ve learned and the stuff you’ve listened to. That’s what I’m doing, at least.”
Claire Marie Ranit
notebook
Bibliophile
Claire Marie Ranit’s book and trainings offer a new, creative approach to school emergency preparedness.
Lockdown Drills Reimagined Innovative book, resources transform scary protocols into empowerment interview by Cathy Carroll
DURING A DECADE working in school emergency preparedness, consultant Claire Marie Ranit got a close-up look at how lockdown drills can be difficult for kids, teachers and parents. Her children’s book, Sammy the Sasquatch: Welcome to Crittertopia, published in 2023, and corresponding curriculum, training and coaching for school staff and students offer a new, creative method for teaching kids how to be empowered by keeping themselves safe through lockdown drills. The program is having success among rural and urban communities across Oregon, including all Portland public elementary schools, with educators reporting fewer students scared and fewer parents opting to not have their child participate in a potentially life-saving emergency training. The initiative dovetails with President Joe Biden’s executive order in September to accelerate progress on combating emerging firearms threats and improve school-based active shooter drills. Ranit is based in The Dalles, but she and her team offer the program everywhere.
What drove you to write this book? My work often had me in schools and classrooms, supporting students and staff in emergency drills. Seeing the negative psychological impact it had on many, I just needed a better way to do the work, something that I could be confident would be effective, developmentally appropriate and trauma informed. I looked through what was already available on the market and couldn’t find what was needed, so I created it. Describe how the book can make lockdowns less frightening for kids, and guides adults in the process, too. The story invites kids into the magical world of Crittertopia, where Sammy and her Forest Friends adventure, play and always know how to be safe, like looking both ways before crossing the road and practicing lockdown drills. This helps to normalize that kids and adults practice safety all day, every day, in lots of different ways. Sammy tells the kids they will also get a chance to practice a lockdown drill at their school, just like they do in Sasquatch School. Normalizing safety helps kids to see that practicing safety doesn’t mean they are not safe. In this way, they can be empowered and confident to keep themselves safe if something unexpected happens during the school day.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
How are schools using your book and training? Schools use the book and training in a multi-week approach to the first lockdown drill of the school year. Through the training, schools receive materials to work up to the first lockdown drill in a way that families are involved, aware of what will and won’t happen and can start the discussion at home. The story is read to students, and they make a list of questions for Sammy and her friends to answer when Sammy visits the classroom as a stuffed animal, with a person trained in the Sammy & Friends approach and a community safety partner in uniform, such as a police officer or firefighter that we call our ‘safety friend.’ As part of the approach, the safety friend is trained and prepared ahead of time to be trauma informed in their actions and words. Our plan is to have a Sammy costume in the future. There are no surprises for students, families or staff. When Sammy and her friends visit, they model a lockdown drill, answer questions and invite students to join in a lockdown drill. The new activity book provides different ways of engaging with the material that can be added to the learning process to reinforce the actions in a fun and engaging way. MORE ONLINE
Learn more at www. sammyandfriends.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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food + drink
Beerlandia written by Jeremy Storton photography by Alyson Brown THE FIRM SNAP reverberates through my senses to let me know something amazing is about to land on my palate. Just from the sound, I can tell the producer has put time and care into tempering this bar of chocolate well. It is something to savor and appreciate, not the type of bar to carelessly hand out for Halloween. This is the tease … the anticipation … the foreplay. Next, we place the chocolate on our tongue; we need to warm it up to unlock its aromas, and there is no better place to do so. Now, we pour the beer and inhale its aroma before introducing the beer to the chocolate. Does the pairing work? Is it a dud, or is it exquisite? If I were honest with you, both beer and chocolate are things no one needs but everyone wants. This is to say that we could survive a dystopian, colorless, soundless and tasteless world, but what would be the point? Life is
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
meant to be lived. Beer and chocolate provide the soundtrack, except with flavor. Ordinary, mass-produced chocolate and beer have a place in our lives, but this is not the experience I’m talking about. When artisanal, bean-to-bar chocolate pairs perfectly with an artisanal craft beer, magic ensues. Suddenly, one plus one equals ten, and we don’t mind the contradiction because not everything with beer and chocolate has to make sense. Pairing beer and chocolate well is tricky and not for those who require immediate gratification. It requires effort, time and mindfulness. But, when you finally find the right combination, it will profoundly sate your lustful palate. As my colleague, fellow Advanced Cicerone and chocolate expert David Nilsen writes in his book Pairing Beer & Chocolate: “We’re not looking for handshakes here. We’re looking for love.”
food + drink
BEER + CHOCOLATE PAIRINGS TO TRY • Belgian wit with white chocolate • Fruit beer with milk chocolate and sea salt • Fruited sour beer with chocolate and spicy chilies • Flanders sour with dark chocolate and dried fruit • Imperial stout (with coconut) with milk chocolate and tropical fruit • Amber IPA with sweet chocolate • Weizenbock with dark chocolate and espresso • Strong malty beer with dark chocolate and goat milk • Belgian quad with dark chocolate and berries • Imperial stout with Spanish sipping chocolate
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 21
Black Tie Tours
food + drink
CRAVINGS:
DUNGENESS CRAB JACQUELINE This beloved neighborhood spot gets everything right with its seafood dishes, from hamachi crudo layered with charred pickled pineapple, peanuts and punchy mắm nêm to smoked Samish Bay mussels. Longtime fans turn out for the convivial oyster happy hours (held from 4-6 p.m. Monday through Saturday). And when you need something uplifting in the dark of winter, the Dungeness crab toast—dressed up with Calabrian chilis, pea tendrils and fennel pollen—always delivers.
Stefan Czarnecki and his truffle dog search for the prized fungi.
Gastronomy
Oregon’s Top Truffle Experiences written by Kerry Newberry ON A RECENT rainy afternoon, Stefan Czarnecki, a truffle expert who hails from multiple generations of mushroom foragers and cooks (his brother is the chef/owner of the esteemed Joel Palmer House in Dayton), led a group through a misty grove of Douglas fir trees in the Willamette Valley. We were in search of Oregon’s elusive native truffles that peak in the heart of winter. For those curious about the prized ingredient, one of the most immersive ways to learn about the fragrant fungi is on a truffle hunt. Most often found underground at the base of Douglas fir trees, the wild treasure is best when it’s fully ripe, and trained truffle dogs can often scent them out. Which is why Czarnecki’s loyal dog, Auggie, eagerly leaped into action when he pointed and said, “La truffe!” The challenge is to get the dog to hit the exact spot—but it happened many times that afternoon. “We like to see a gentle boop with the nose versus digging,” said Czarnecki. Customized for culinary enthusiasts, his Black Tie Tours include an afternoon lunch (one option has a chef-prepared feast and guest winemaker). Make a weekend of your truffle romp during Taste NewMORE INSIDE berg’s Truffle Trail season with special experiences that Love truffle? range from immersive lodging packages to an extensive Try Trellis’ Black Walnut and Truffle truffle marketplace. Manhattan on pg. 25 And don’t miss the Oregon Truffle Festival, the nation’s premier truffle celebration known for wine country galas, lively truffle hunts and The Joriad North American Truffle Dog Competition. In 2025, there’s a new coastal truffle weekend in Astoria with a masquerade ball, fungi-inspired film festival and fresh truffle marketplace. For a complete list of events, visit www.oregontrufflefestival.org. BLACK TIE TOURS NEWBERG www.blacktietours.com
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
2500 SE CLINTON ST. PORTLAND www.jacquelinepdx.com
LOCAL OCEAN It’s worth a trek to coastal Newport during peak Dungeness crab season. Home to the largest fishing port in the state, this seafaring town also holds the title of the Dungeness Crab Capital of the World. You can walk the buzzy docks to see fishers haul in their daily catch, and then gaze out the bay windows at Local Ocean at boats gliding by. Order the chef’s famous roasted garlic and Dungeness crab soup, a soul-satisfying dish that warms up the most wintry of days. 213 SE BAY BLVD. NEWPORT www.localocean.net
WAYFARER RESTAURANT & LOUNGE At this Cannon Beach institution, most tables come with an idyllic view of Haystack Rock. The restaurant dates back to 1977, but had a recent refresh adding more warmth and cozy vibes to the coastal hot spot. You can order standout dishes starring Dungeness crab for any meal, from a classic crab cocktail to crispy crab cakes with lemon aioli. The omelet stuffed with creamy white cheddar and generous amounts of Dungeness crab is another must. 1190 PACIFIC DRIVE CANNON BEACH www.wayfarer-restaurant.com
Crisp heirloom carats
717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.Maloys.com
For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.
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lakecreeklodge.com 541.588.2150 Established 1935
13375 SW FS Rd. 1419 Camp Sherman, OR 97730
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
SNOWY CULINARY MOMENTS WANDERLUST TOURS Bundle up for a starlit snowshoe walk through the graceful hemlocks and pines around Mt. Bachelor and the surrounding Deschutes National Forest followed by hot chocolate. Better yet, sign up for one of the special events led by these established naturalist guides. For an upcoming dinner, Wanderlust will partner with Luckey’s Woodsman, local experts in backcountry cooking techniques. The fireside dinner on January 18 will serve up hearty soups paired with freshly baked bread along with desserts from Bend’s popular Sparrow Bakery. 61535 S. HIGHWAY 97, SUITE 13 BEND www.wanderlusttours.com
LUCKEY’S WOODSMAN If you miss the snowshoe and soup dinner with Wanderlust, don’t fret! You can create your own enchanting dinner in the snow with off-grid provisions from Luckey’s Woodsman. Dreamed up by chef Jackson Higdon, the elevated backcountry cuisine features ready-to-go camper kits like BBQ whiskey chicken with five-spiceroasted squash and a veg-friendly wild mushroom and rice bowl. You can also visit their trailside kitchen in Sisters on Tuesday through Sunday. 352 E. HOOD AVE., UNIT B SISTERS www.luckeyswoodsman.com
PHLOX POINT CABIN Swish down the evergreen-speckled slopes at Timberline to Phlox Point Cabin, the only ski-in-ski-out taqueria on the mountain. Built in 1930, the tiny timber cabin started as an alpine warming hut for the Timberline Ski Club. Now it’s the state’s most photogenic spot for street-style tacos, craft beer and aprés vibes. You can cozy up by a crackling fire inside or kick back in the snow outside around a custom-built fire barrel and watch other skiers drift by. 27500 E. WEST LEG ROAD GOVERNMENT CAMP www.timberlinelodge.com
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Vegan tonkatsu ramen from Portland’s Takibi.
Alpha Bravo
Ramen dishes from Newberg’s Alpha Bravo, a speakeasy-style ramen bar.
Dining
Warm Up With Ramen at These New Spots written by Kerry Newberry WHEN WETNESS peaks in Oregon, ramen is a balm. Luckily, there’s a new crop of restaurants and bars serving up soul-satisfying bowls from wine country to the coast. First stop: Alpha Bravo (115 S. Washington St., Newberg; www.alphabravobar.com). This speakeasy-style ramen bar is located in the back room of the new urban tasting hub and gallery for Artist Block. Similar to her studio-gallery-tasting room in Dundee, founder Anna Sweet transformed a simple vision into something sensational. The hidden bar is packed with moody vibes—from vintage decor and feathery chandeliers to velvet booths. Ever wondered about pairing ramen with wine? A local list with glass pours points you in the right direction.
Cocktail Card
In Portland, Takibi (2275 NW Flanders St., Portland; www.takibipdx.com), the warm and woodsy restaurant tucked inside Snow Peak’s U.S. headquarters, recently brought back its lunch program (Wednesday through Sunday) with a new menu featuring ramen, sushi and nigiri sets. The exceptional ramen stars handcrafted noodles made from flour using the traditional Yukimuro snow-aging method. You can choose from three broths, but the vegan tonkotsu style with seaweed and maitake mushroom is a standout. Over in Bend, Yokocho Izakaya (1900 NE Division St., #110, Bend; @yokochoizakaya.bend on Instagram) serves up tonkotsu ramen alongside izakaya classics like chicken karaage and yakisoba in a festive space with neon lights and retro posters.
recipe courtesy of Trellis / DUNDEE
Heather Amistad/Takibi
Black Walnut and Truffle Manhattan • 2 ounces Woodford Reserve rye • 1 ounce sweet vermouth • 1/4 ounce black truffle oil • 2 dashes black walnut bitters • 1 black Amarena cherry, for garnish • Shaved fresh truffle, for garnish
Combine rye, sweet vermouth, truffle oil and bitters in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Stir gently for 30 seconds to chill and blend the flavors. Strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a black Amarena cherry and a delicate shaving of fresh truffle.
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farm to table Lori Rowland Photography
Matt Ward operates the machine for chopping the windrow of cut mint into the “tubs,” which will be taken to the distillery.
Farm to Table
The Magic of Mint February 11 is National Peppermint Patty Day— let’s celebrate one of Oregon’s premier crops! written by Julie Lee
MARK WARD enjoys a challenge. Ward Ranches in Baker Valley, an Oregon Century Farm, started with a humble crop of potatoes more than 110 years ago. Generations later, his family still owns and works the same land, though what they grow on it has evolved with time. Still in the spuds business, Ward Ranches is now a thriving mint farm, despite doubters. “When we first got into the mint business, we were told you can’t do both potatoes and mint,” Ward said. Not only did Ward prove naysayers wrong, he’s also not the only farmer in our state to grow both. There are two different ways to farm mint. While fresh or dried leaves are used as an ingredient, mint oil is extracted as a flavoring or scent. Mint is everywhere, and it’s a commodity that is often taken for granted. Spearmint and curly mint are grown for use as an herb in dishes and beverages like tea, while peppermint is typically processed as oil, used as a flavoring in toothpaste, gum and mints, or refined into menthol. The benefits of mint range from nutrient-packed vitamins like A, C and B2 to a cooling, relaxing effect when applied on muscles or used to treat respiratory issues. The smell of mint is widely known to invigorate senses. 26
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Ward has been in the mint oil business since 1996, when a blending company in La Grande started growing peppermint. Ward began by growing certified roots to support the growers and expanded acreage toward mint when demand increased for mint oil. Companies like Wrigley’s, Colgate and Brach’s all depend on mint oil for production. “It’s a fun business,” said Ward. “We’re committed to the long term, so we buy plantlets that are certified disease free. We take those from the greenhouse and plant them in the field. One acre of roots plants ten acres of a field.” Wilt disease is a constant worry for mint and potato farmers. In fact, crops move locations over time because of Verticillium wilt. Ward is proud of remaining disease free to date, maintaining diligence in sanitation practices for growing both potatoes and mint. Once a booming industry for our state, only a handful of mint growers are left in Oregon due to Verticillium wilt affecting yields, resulting in disappearing acreage. Demand is another hurdle farmers face. Like many commodities, mint has its upward and downward swings in demand, and right now is a particularly challenging time, with supply greatly exceeding demand. “The market has been down, but we have optimism,” said Bryan Ostlund, administrator for the Oregon Mint Commission.
“The pandemic was a boom for many industries, but not for mint. Think about mint candies, gum, etc. not being largely consumed when people were wearing masks.” Ostlund sees a bright future, however, with consumer spending stronger and a huge market for organic tea. He enjoys an industry where he gets to witness the evolution from farm to consumer, from grower to end user. Steve Salisbury, a contractor for the mint industry research council, handles “anything that falls under research to help progress the mint industry.” Oregon mint has moved around throughout time, with Madras once being the king of the crop. The Willamette Valley, Central Oregon, La Grande—all boast family farms and businesses that have had their moment in the sun with mint. “I always tell my growers: We have the best mint producers in the world,” said Salisbury. “Staunch protectors and stewards of their land. Progressive in their practices. We always come to the table to figure out the best way to do what we do.” Mike Macy of Macy Farms in Culver is a fellow farmer of both potato and mint crops. After producing mint oil for the past twenty-five years, he switched to farming and harvesting mint leaves in 2024. In the early 1970s, Macy’s father, grandfather and uncle went into partnership with three other neighboring farms, building a mint still to extract oils from mint plants. “The soil necessary for potatoes and for mint is similar, and mint is a good rotation crop. However, you don’t want a bunch of volunteer potatoes in your mint,” Macy chuckled. Macy and his wife, Milne, love to be part of the family of mint growers, what Macy calls a “small and mighty group of farmers” in Oregon. When they recently lost a contract for mint oil production, Milne said, “our whole family was devastated. It was very emotional. But then we were thrilled when we could continue farming mint (in leaf form).” “There is nothing like driving by when mint is being harvested,” said Macy. “The smell is amazing.” Ward concurs. “Our mint is grown on the edge of town. With the prevailing wind in Baker coming out of the North, when we’re distilling, the aroma goes clear across town. People will stop me and tell me how good it smells.” Ward’s favorite part of farming? “I like looking back across a field we’ve just planted or harvested, seeing the accomplishments of the day. ‘This is what I got done today, and I’m proud of it.’” Mint accentuates any dish with a powerful punch of flavor. Chef Heidi Whitney-Schile of Ambar Estate has a favorite
“There is nothing like driving by when mint is being harvested. The smell is amazing.” — Mike Macy, mint grower
Photos: Lori Rowland Photography
farm to table
FROM TOP Matt and Mark Ward during mint harvest at Ward Ranches. Barrels sit inside Ward Ranches’ mint-processing plant.
recipe to share she’s been making for friends for years: Mint Ice Cream with Cocoa Brownie Chunks. “It’s easy to modify for vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free friends, and [the recipe] includes those possible substitutions,” said Whitney-Schile. “The brownies are chewy, fudgy and delicious, and the ice cream has just the right amount of zippy mint to lighten things up. Fresh-churned ice cream is the absolute best, and it gets everyone extra excited about dessert.” She recommends making the ice cream base the night before serving. Jordan Curtis is a Portland-based content creator and food fanatic. A former line cook, he’s obsessed with cooking and exploring the Rose City’s restaurants and food carts, and you can follow his culinary adventures on Instagram at @HotEatsCoolFeets. He loves to whip up Mint Tzatziki, a simple and delicious appetizer. Oregon Dungeness crab season is now, and what better way to enjoy delicious crab and mint than Leif Benson’s Dungeness Crab Spoon Salad Turkish Style? JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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farm to table
Oregon Recipes
A Medley of Mint on the Menu Mint Ice Cream with Cocoa Brownie Chunks
Chef Heidi Whitney-Schile / NEWBERG SERVES 8 FOR COCOA BROWNIE CHUNKS* • 10 tablespoons coconut oil • 1¼ cup sugar • 3/4 cup cocoa powder (Cacao Barry preferred) • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 2 eggs • 1/2 cup almond flour *Chef’s note: To make this recipe vegan, substitute in vegan sugar and eggs. FOR MINT AND VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM** • 4 cups cream • 1 whole vanilla bean • 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves • 1 cup sugar • 10 egg yolks **Chef’s note: To make this recipe vegan, leave out the egg yolks, instead mixing in 8 tablespoons of cornstarch with your sugar. For the dairy-free version of this recipe, Violife cream is the preferred brand. EQUIPMENT • Food thermometer • Ice cream maker FOR COCOA BROWNIE CHUNKS Preheat your oven to 350 degrees, and prepare an 8x8 baking dish by lining the inside completely with parchment paper and applying a thin coating of nonstick spray. Set aside. In a large metal mixing bowl, add coconut oil, sugar, cocoa powder and salt. Create a double boiler by adding about 1 inch of water to a medium-sized saucepan. Place the metal mixing bowl on top of the saucepan so that the bowl rests securely on the rim without touching the water. Turn the heat on low to medium under the double boiler, and allow the
coconut oil to melt slowly, stirring as needed to combine the ingredients. The steam from the simmering water will gently heat the contents of the bowl. Once the coconut oil is melted and all the ingredients are combined, remove the bowl from the heat, and add the eggs. Stir vigorously until fully mixed in. Then add the almond flour, and mix until smooth. The batter should appear smooth, glossy and thick. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish, and bake at 350 degrees for approximately 30 minutes. The brownies are done when a knife or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Turkish-Style Dungeness Crab Spoon Salad.
FOR MINT AND VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM Place the cream, vanilla and mint in a medium-sized pot, and bring to a simmer over low to medium heat. Let simmer for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and allow the vanilla and mint to steep for 30 minutes. Strain out the mint and vanilla using a fine-mesh colander. Return the mixture to the pot, and bring it to a simmer again. Once simmering, remove from heat. In a separate heat-safe mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks. Slowly stream the hot cream mixture into the yolk mixture, stirring as the cream is poured in. Once all the cream is incorporated, check the temperature of the mixture. If it is 170 degrees, it’s ready to cool. If not, return the mixture to low heat, and stir slowly until it reaches 170 degrees. This process pasteurizes the mixture. Once the mixture reaches 170 degrees, cool it down to 45 degrees by placing it in your fridge. Pour the mixture into your ice cream maker, and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the mixture has turned to ice cream, break up the brownie chunks, and gently fold them into the ice cream. Don’t worry—the brownies won’t become rock hard. They’ll retain the perfect chewy texture for this delicious treat.
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Turkish-Style Dungeness Crab Spoon Salad Chef Leif Benson, Oregon’s Culinary Ambassador / BORING SERVES 2 • 4 ounces Oregon Dungeness crabmeat • 1 cup tomatoes, seeded and chopped • 1/4 cup red onion, chopped • 1/4 cup cucumber, peeled and chopped • 1/4 cup pomegranate seeds • 1/4 cup green bell pepper, chopped • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses • 1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped • 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped • 2 tablespoons walnuts or hazelnuts, chopped • 1/2 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped • 1/2 teaspoon sumac (optional) • 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or crushed chili peppers • Salt and pepper to taste Chop all vegetables medium size. Combine all ingredients except crab and mix well. Season to taste, and top with Dungeness crabmeat. Garnish with pomegranate molasses and fresh mint.
Mint Tzatziki
Jordan Curtis / PORTLAND SERVES 2 • ¾ cup cucumber, finely grated • 1 cup Greek yogurt • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil • 2 large garlic cloves, grated • Flaky sea salt, to taste • 1 tablespoon fresh dill or parsley, chopped • 1½ tablespoons fresh mint, chopped • Fresh-cracked black pepper, to taste Place grated cucumber in cheese cloth or paper towel, and gently squeeze out excess water. In a mixing bowl, combine the cucumber, yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, sea salt, parsley/dill and mint. Finish with fresh-cracked black pepper, garnish with more mint and chill until ready to use. Serve with grilled pita or naan or on a platter with sliced veggies or chips.
Mint tzatziki can be served with any meat.
farm to table
Maître d’hôtel butter as smooth as Elvis.
Homegrown Chef
For Butter or For Worse written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane
Oregon Maître d’Hôtel Butter MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS • 8 ounces high-quality unsalted butter at room temperature (I use Eberhard’s, made in Oregon) • 4 teaspoons flat-leaf parsley, finely minced • 6 grates fresh lemon zest • 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice • 1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard • 1/4 teaspoon Jacobsen sea salt (also from Oregon) • 1/4 teaspoon paprika (For a hint of smokiness, use smoked paprika) Using a fork or spatula, mash together the softened butter, parsley, lemon zest and juice, mustard, salt and paprika. Transfer the butter to a piece of parchment paper, forming into a log. Roll up like a piece of candy, twisting both ends to make a compact cylinder of butter with no air pockets. Refrigerate until hard, allowing flavors to infuse, a minimum of 1 hour. Keep any leftover butter wrapped tightly in plastic wrap in the freezer for future use.
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IT WAS the mid-1990s when I’d gotten a frantic call from my youngest sister, Gretchen, a pastry chef who specializes in custom cakes. She’d received a special order for a six-tier wedding cake with instructions that it be “just like Elvis and Priscilla’s.” “I’m freaking out!” she said. “I have no idea what this is.” “I’ll call you right back,” I replied. I quickly started looking through my cookbooks. A few years earlier, my older sister, Heidi, had given me Are You Hungry Tonight? Elvis’ Favorite Recipes cookbook by Brenda Arlene Butler. It had everything from the king of rock ‘n’ roll’s favorite—a fried banana-and-bacon sandwich—to, yes, the recipe for the famous wedding cake, complete with a set of stencils for the intricate lattice frosting adorning the sides. The result would be a 5-foot-tall vanilla butter cake filled with apricot and raspberry jam beneath rich Bavarian buttercream. In total, the cake required 27 pounds of butter. I quickly copied the recipe and sent it to Gretchen. After her nerves calmed, she went to work, carefully baking the sponge cakes and figuring out how to support the sweet structure that had towered over Presley and his teen bride in 1967. I helped Gretchen deliver the complicated confection on the wedding day and assemble it, placing metal rods, pillars for stacking the layers, each 6 inches higher than the next, and keeping it perfectly level. A collapse would mean we’d have to race back to Gretchen’s bakery and get the backup cake (yes, there was a backup). We’d applied the final touches when Gretchen noticed it was starting to lean. She reached into her pocket and pulled out a roll of quarters. I gingerly lifted the bottom of the cake while she inserted a stack of several coins until it was level. “One for the money, two for the show,” I sang as she pulled her hands away and it stood, a picture-perfect cake. Celebrity cakes aside, chefs are crazy about butter. In restaurant kitchens, quality butter is of paramount importance. It’s used in practically every aspect of your meal, from the bread service, soup and appetizer to entrée and dessert. Because butter is so crucial, both savory and pastry chefs are discerning about it—its origin, its fat, salt and water content and, most important, its flavor. In Oregon, dairies create delicious butters, rich in fat and flavor. Savory chefs craft curated compound butters to slather on freshly baked breads, thicken soups with it and add flavor to steaks and seafood. Pastry chefs engage in an essential partnership with butter, the foundation of all their goods. Here’s a recipe for maître d’hôtel butter. This classic compound butter is a great tool to keep in your freezer. I use it for many things: topping grilled steak, fish and chicken, finishing a pasta dish, whipping into mashed potatoes, topping vegetables or spreading on my favorite bread. Its uses, like quarters in a baker’s pocket, are just about endless.
farm to table
Try serving maître d’hôtel butter on salmon, vegetables or your favorite bread.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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home + design
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home + design
Home + Design
Bringing Life to a Colorless Condo A couple and their trusted designer pack new vibrancy into a downtown Portland condo, without moving any walls, or touching the kitchen or bathrooms written by Melissa Dalton photography by Christopher Dibble IN 2015, Derry and Paul Tseng decided to embark on an experiment. As longtime Portland residents who raised their three children in a big house in the Skyline Ridge neighborhood, after their youngest daughter went off to college, they traded that 4,000-square-foot house for a 1,000-square-foot, one-bedroom condo in a 2008 building in the Pearl District. “Lots of work needed to be done on the house all the time, so we thought, ‘Oh, what the heck? We’ll try a small place downtown and see if we like that,’” recalled Derry. “And we started having a lot of fun. It grew on us fast.” While downtown was a vibrant destination, their condo was a bit bland. After meeting designer Peter Spalding through friends, they asked him for help bringing in color and personality. “Before we ever worked with a designer, we had a crazy, colorful house,” said Paul. “Peter brought a little more discipline into our use of color.” Fast forward to 2020, and the couple moved three floors up in the same building to a slightly larger unit, about 2,000 square feet, and asked for Spalding’s help again. This time, Derry and Paul wanted more definition to the open-concept plan, which the designer provided via detailed millwork and smart built-ins, as well as a judicious use of their favorite hues, all while working within the confines of the footprint and leaving certain rooms, like the kitchen and bathrooms, untouched. Here’s how Spalding did it.
Punctuate Space
In the dining room, the designer supplanted a built-in buffet with a built-in banquette, which removed a bottleneck.
“I am pretty traditional in the way that I like the house to be laid out,” said Spalding, designer and chief creative officer of Daniel House Club, a digital trade showroom. “So, I do find it nice to come into a formal entry hall. Cased openings distinguish one space from the next.” Spalding applied such millwork to the Tsengs’ entry, including thickening the wall there, adding molding around the doors, and beefing up the baseboard and trim around the ceiling. “It’s to punctuate space,” said Spalding. “I think that people have this idea that when they open up JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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home + design
The third bedroom has a daybed with ample storage beneath and doubles as an office.
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home + design
all the walls of their home, it’s suddenly going to feel gigantic, but then it doesn’t. When you walk into this huge space, there’s no way to gauge how big it actually is. Your eye doesn’t have anything to read, so adding some lines can help you discern areas.”
Create Nooks In the dining room, an existing built-in buffet pushed the dining table into the circulation route, creating a bottleneck. Spalding suggested a built-in banquette instead, joined by display shelves and artwork to make a focal point. This saves floorspace and creates a desirable destination for Derry and Paul to entertain, or curl up for a dinner just the two of them. In the third bedroom, built-in storage surrounding a sizable daybed makes it so the room flexes as an office most of the time, or a guest bedroom in a pinch. A mix of open shelves and closed cabinets, some with aluminum tambour fronts, allows the couple to stow the printer out of sight, and display their prettier collectibles.
Shelves and cabinets are perfect for displaying life’s artifacts.
Add Color
The yellow-framed opening at the entry creates a visual throughway.
“Derry and Paul are bright people,” said Spalding, so the color palette reflects that. The designer applied a sunshine yellow tone from Miller Paint to the entry and dining room millwork. “Yellow is a color that a lot of people are very scared of,” said Spalding. “But if you have a really bright color palette, you can keep it from going insane by putting a lot of brown in the mix.” A rich blue-green—specifically Yorktowne Green from Benjamin Moore—covers the office installation, with a contrasting coral upholstery for the daybed and shelf backs. The rich blue-green “always looks really good in the light in the Pacific Northwest, because it’s a very changing color,” said Spalding, who notes that the color progression was also carefully considered to move the eye through the space. “When you’re standing there looking from the entry through that yellow framed opening, you see all the way through to the windows at the back of that flex space. So all these frames of color end in the most intense one and that frames the view outside.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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home + design
Personalize Custom furniture and artwork are the finishing touch to make the condo feel unique to Derry and Paul. Spalding mixed their personal favorites, such as paintings from Portland’s old Artquake Festival, Paul’s former patients, and Derry’s “oil painting stage,” with new pieces from local artists, such as Dorothy Yezerski. The couple like to entertain, whether hosting informal football-watching parties in the living room, or a big group around the dining table. “That table is expandable,” said Derry. “We’ve had up to twelve to fourteen people, and it’s comfortable.” Elsewhere, Spalding brought in many local pieces, like small Fieldwork tables that can double as stools, a primary bed from The Joinery and, in the living room, a custom chaise—which Derry and Paul curl up on for TV nights—designed by Spalding with a frame welded by the Sistersbased Ponderosa Forge. Does this mean the “experiment” has been a success? “Everything is so nicely done that we can’t ever leave,” said Derry. “It is a refuge,” added Paul. BELOW In the living room, artwork and a custom chaise help personalize the space.
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home + design
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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home + design
Find frames at a variety of retailers, such as IKEA, craft stores, thrift stores or local frame shops. SURPRISE Vary the photo compositions to play with scale. This can mean choosing a close-up portrait and pairing it with an image taken from a far distance. This keeps the wall from looking repetitive, even if using the same frame for everything. Choose a range of images from different eras of life. De facto candidates for a family photo wall are traditional portraits marking special occasions, like weddings and graduations. Consider including unexpected images, too, such as goofy faces or candid snaps. If doing an eclectic wall, add a circular frame to break up the bevy of rectangles.
DIY
Arranging a Family Photo Wall illustration by Amy Wike CHOOSE A WALL Take measurements of the available space to get the outside dimensions of the photo wall. This will dictate how many images will be hung, and in what shape, like a narrow column or bigger spread. If installing over a couch or bed, apply the 2/3 rule to get the right proportions—the photo wall should be 2/3 of the width of whatever it is hanging above. PICK A PALETTE Choose one of these variations: 1) Grid: All the frames have the same color, size and mat to form orderly rows. The images can be square, vertically oriented or hori-
zontal. Grids look especially great when hung three across. 2) Eclectic: Mix different frame sizes, materials and colors for variety. When mixing, consider having similar numbers of each frame material or color in the overall arrangement, such as: five white frames, five black frames, five wooden ones and five metallic. Mat sizes can vary, and include bottom-weighted mats or no mats for further variation. 3) Analogous: Vary the photo sizes, but keep the mat proportions consistent (for example, always a 2-inch border) and the frame material and color the same. This can be a more expensive option if frames need to be custom sizes.
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PRINT, MAT AND FRAME Print the photographs from an online retailer of your choice, such as FreePrints. Buy the tools to DIY your own mats, such as a mat board cutter and cutting mat; purchase pre-cut mats at an art supply store; or have mats cut at a frame shop. Choose mats all the same color for best results. (Mats are an essential element for creating negative space around each image and cohesion for the wall.) For pre-purchased frames, clean the glass before assemblage, and use tape to secure the image to the back of the mat. ARRANGE AND HANG Apply painter’s tape to the floor in the wall dimensions. Arrange the frames inside, making sure to keep them an equal distance apart, whether doing an orderly grid or an organic grouping. (Keeping 2 to 3 inches of distance between frames is a good start.) For the eclectic, place the largest image as an anchor and build around it. Optional: Install shallow ledges to prop photos on, if you like to change out images regularly.
In a time of change, Indigenous people continued to thrive.
EXHIBITION OPENS FEBRUARY 1, 2025
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home + design
Art and Color This sleek, colorful butter dish is a collaboration between Portland’s Pigeon Toe Ceramics and Seattle’s Fruitsuper. It’s dishwasher and microwave safe, fits two different butter sizes and comes in six hues. www.pigeontoeceramics.com
www.kateblairstone.com
www.thenewmodernist.com
Monochrome place mats are a missed opportunity when there’s these bold striped versions by Dusen Dusen, available at the Portlandbased Woonwinkel. They come in four cheery color combos and are machine washable, made of a sturdy, 100-percent cotton. www.woonwinkelhome.com 40
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Photos, clockwise from top left: Pigeon Toe Ceramics, Kate Blairstone, Dusen Dusen, The New Modernist
The New Modernist is the brainchild of furniture and textile designer Emma de Crespigny and offers a range of one-ofa-kind Mid-century sofas, tables and rugs. The in-housedesigned Barbie Cabinet has a body made of sprayed supawood with a powder-coated steel sleigh base and is made to order in several shades. True to its name, we say go for the pink!
A tray is quite useful to have on hand, whether it’s needed to corral mail, or serve snacks. For more vibrancy and artistry than the typical versions, look no further than the tableware collection from Portland-based Kate Blairstone, whose birch melamine trays depict everything from lavender lionfish to red horses and lush florals.
Music warms the world
ICONIC APPAREL, BLANKETS & MORE
Visit our website for store locations: PENDLETON-USA.COM
all aboard! The Best of Eastern Oregon
mind + body
Choose Your Own Fitness Journey Pilates began as a healing method for WWI soldiers but has many more uses today
Studio Cloud 9 Pilates
written by Jean Chen Smith
What began as a healing method for soldiers, Pilates has taken on new strength applications.
AS A PILATES studio owner and professional in the fitness industry, I notice the new year brings enthusiastic new faces who are eager to get started on their road to physical health. However, by spring, a good portion of those clients have either reduced their consistency, or stopped their initial routine altogether. It is easy to get caught up in the fervor of a new endeavor, but even harder and more important to stay the course. That is why I tell beginners that if you do not fall in love with Pilates, it is okay. Find something that resonates with the way you want to move, and feel good about being in your body when doing the workout. Because everyone is built differently and coming from different exercise backgrounds, it is good to try new things and give anything a chance. If exercise is another “must-do” to tick off your list, then you are missing the point. Movement should be enjoyable and refreshing. Not only does it help with managing weight and stress levels, but it also has been reported to improve mental health. 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
I found my way to Pilates through a running injury. Between marathons, I was out on a run one morning and fell. At first I did not realize anything was wrong, so I got back up and finished my route. Although I felt a pain in my left pelvis, I continued to exercise for another two weeks before the pain became so excruciating I had trouble walking. I finally went to the orthopedic specialist who announced I had a hairline stress fracture on the left side of my pelvis due to the fall. Perhaps I should have stopped running after initially falling, and waited until I fully recovered, but I ignored the pain and continued to exercise. The recovery took a long time, which was approximately six months of reduced walking, no weight-bearing exercises such as yoga, and definitely no running.
Studio Cloud 9 Pilates
PILATES STUDIOS
The Pilates reformer apparatus.
A friend suggested Pilates, and at first I balked because it seemed it was just like yoga, and at the time, I was not a fan of downward dogs and om shanti. Although I was not psyched about getting started in Pilates, I did eventually succumb because I craved movement of any kind. While I was injured and recovering, I set aside time to do a session every day. I also took private lessons at a local studio so I could learn the basics of Pilates to get my form right. When I finally returned to normal walking and running, I found my body got leaner and stronger because I was engaging muscles that running could not target. Pilates, as I later found out when I became an instructor, was designed for healing the injured. Joseph Pilates, the founder, created one of his first machines known as the reformer during his time at a World War I internment camp. He used hospital beds and attached springs to them so that bed-bound soldiers could strengthen their muscles. He also saw the spirits of the men lift, while utilizing the spring weights as resistance, giving them a sense of purpose, rather than languishing away in the beds. When he was alive, he referred to his exercises as “Contrology,” the idea that your mind controlled your body. In 1926, Pilates and his wife, Clara, opened a studio in New York City, which was located in the same building as the New York City Ballet. His exercises were so effective at strengthening and lengthening, they were popular with dancers. Today, there are different types of Pilates offered, depending on where you
receive your certification. The truest form as Mr. Pilates taught is known as “classical,” which is a system of thirtyfour exercises done in the same sequence over time so you can see your improvement. Contemporary refers to a more modern approach to the discipline, looking at the utilization of props, making modifications to accommodate people with injuries and changing the order of the original exercises. Beyond that, there are different Pilates classes, including mat Pilates, which is done on the floor without the use of apparatus. Reformer Pilates uses the equipment known as “the reformer,” which is similar to the hospital beds Joseph Pilates developed during his time at the internment camp. There are at least seven types of apparatus, but the reformer is still the most popular for group classes. There are many benefits to doing consistent Pilates, including increasing muscle tone, improving your posture and developing a stronger core, which can help with lower back pain. It can also help with flexibility and balance. Will every single person fall in love with Pilates? Maybe not, just like running or spinning is not for everyone. The trick is to find the one or two—heck, maybe even three—fitness activities that you enjoy, so you keep going back for more. Choose your own fitness journey, and see where it takes you. Try new things so you can find out if you like it or not. Chances are, if you enjoy it, you will not only show up in the month of January— you will stick with it.
As a travel journalist, I’ve been able to visit many Pilates studios across the state. Here are some of my favorites—see if they’re near where you live. If not, look for local studios at your chamber of commerce or visitor’s bureau in addition to yoga studios that might offer it as well.
Photo: Jean Chen Smith
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5th Line Pilates 206 NE EVANS ST. MCMINNVILLE www.5thlinepilates.com The Pilates Studio of Hood River 1020-H WASCO ST. HOOD RIVER www.hoodriverpilates.com Begin Pilates 2393 NE FREMONT ST., SUITE D PORTLAND www.beginpilates.com Kinespirit Circle 1231 NW 11TH AVE. PORTLAND www.kinespiritcircle.com Volk’s Yoga and Pilates Studio 615 SW HURBERT ST. NEWPORT www.yogajeany.com Reformed Pilates 145 N. 5TH ST. JACKSONVILLE www.reformed-pilates.com
Mat Pilates, demonstrated here by writer Jean Chen Smith, can be a great way to get started.
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artist in residence
Water-Based Ink
Author Lidia Yuknavitch writes and lives as if swimming written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil
WATER has a natural tendency to connect with more water. Once Lidia Yuknavitch learned to walk, she began jumping into bodies of water: pools, rivers, ponds, the Pacific Ocean. At age 4, her parents enrolled her in swim lessons, in frigid Lake Washington near their home in Bellevue, so that Yuknavitch wouldn’t soon drown. Essentially, water had met water, and Yuknavitch has remained immersed ever since. As Yuknavitch puts it, she was “accidentally” good at swimming. She joined swim teams and competed, all the way to college. Yet while water was calming, life on land often was not, and swimming offered her refuge. An abusive father, a miscarriage and a few
Lidia Yuknavitch lives surrounded by water in north Lincoln County.
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unhealthy addictions blew like storm-force winds across Yuknavitch’s young body of water, generating wave energy that would eventually break on shore in the form of short stories, essays and books. Having survived those storms and still in her early twenties, Yuknavitch enrolled at the University of Oregon. Here she discovered a love for reading that soon revealed another “accidental” talent, this time for creative writing. “I didn’t know what a story was, or what being a writer was,” she said. “But these weird fragments started coming out, and they were narrative, about girls who’ve had difficulties, little pieces of things.”
artist in residence
“Water is like a portal for me. It’s not just a literary metaphor for me, even though it’s obviously that, too. It’s so deep for me that it’s probably why I’m still around.” — Lidia Yuknavitch The writing, guided by U of O teachers like the great novelist Ken Kesey, was therapeutic. As swimming had done before, writing and literature provided Yuknavitch with a new liquid space to explore and call home. “Like with water, once I was in it, I didn’t want to leave,” she said. “I felt safe.” Yuknavitch stayed in Eugene long enough to earn a doctorate in literature. She then spent thirty years teaching at the college level, and kept writing. At first, Yuknavitch collected her short stories into books that she published with micropresses and independent publishers. Like ocean swells beginning to feel the contours of land, Yuknavitch’s work as a writer emerged from the depths and found form, composed of her turbulent past and her connection to water. “Water is like a portal for me,” Yuknavitch said. “It’s not just a literary metaphor for me, even though it’s obviously that, too. It’s so deep for me that it’s probably why I’m still around.” Now a national bestselling author, Yuknavitch uses her life story and her craft of fiction and nonfiction to influence others’ lives. Her latest work, a memoir titled Reading the Waves, offers lessons on perseverance and healing, in her idiosyncratic style and voice. Through the workshop practice she developed, Corporeal Writing, Yuknavitch draws on her relationship with water to help artists find their own body-centered metaphor, “writing by and through the body.” Janice Lee, an associate professor of creative writing at Portland State University, has worked alongside Yuknavitch at Corporeal Writing. “Water is important in a lot of the things Lidia does,” Lee said. “It shows up in her writing and in her teaching. Lidia thinks a lot about relationality and connectedness through water. She’s very good at asking people to look deeper: ‘What’s the story underneath the story?’” As a writer, Yuknavitch relies on concepts gained from competitive swimming, like practice, rhythm and repetition. She begins writing with a short meditation warm-up, to understand where she is most in her body that day, and this will lead to a chapter, a story or new material. But Yuknavitch does not sit and dwell on plots and characters. Like the ocean, she is in subtle yet constant complex motion. In a way, Yuknavitch writes wave-like. Often tapping the emotional energy of her past, Yuknavitch lets story fragments gather in her mind and body before releasing them onto the
page. “I spend more time writing internally, and by the time it comes out, it’s in great rushes or waves,” she said. “I carry ideas and arrangements for a long time.” Yuknavitch writes nonfiction, but she prefers fiction, for understandable reasons. “It’s like swimming, imaginable and free,” she said. Another friend of Yuknavitch, author Cheryl Strayed, recognizes this untethered, borderless approach to writing. “Lidia has always been interested in making structure new, which is so evocative of what water does and the way water flows,” Strayed said. The two have known each other for fifteen years, and in that time Yuknavitch has revealed a compassionate, nonjudgmental nature. “As a friend, she is very enfolding, and accepting and gentle.” Following her instinct, Yuknavitch moved with her husband and son to the coast near Lincoln City several years ago. “It’s the closest I’ve felt to being whole,” she said. “I’ve noticed a shift from self as center to self as the sediment of storytelling. When you walk next to the ocean, you’re puny. It’s older, bigger and smarter than us. Storytelling for me is more about coexistence and inter-being now.”
Each of Lidia Yuknavitch’s rings carries a story. When one breaks, she gets a new one.
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GAME CHANGER 50
pg. 48 Work by glass artist Andy Paiko.
Courtesy of Andy Paiko
MY WORKSPACE 48
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my workspace
When glass artist Andy Paiko first got the notion of selling his glass pieces, he ran the circuit of craft shows and tried selling from the tailgate of his truck. He frequently ended his days with feelings of frustration and humiliation from lack of sales. Many of us would pack it up and give up. Not Paiko. His love for glass art, which began in high school, triumphed over any sales. He simply just kept going with it.
Heart of Glass The steely resolve of a glass artist and its eventual rewards written by Joni Kabana
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Courtesy of Andy Paiko
Andrew Stanbridge Photo
Courtesy of Andy Paiko
Paiko’s persistence has paid off in spades, resulting in a thirty-year career of glass sculpting sanctioned by numerous awards, publication profiles and happy clients. While Paiko lives in Portland and rents hot shop and furnace time in Vancouver, Washington, his work has taken him around the world, often with family in tow. In 2022, Paiko and his family lived while he worked on the “Glass Island” of Murano in Venice, Italy. His daughter rode a boat to school and learned to speak Italian while Paiko worked as part of the factory team.
Paiko works almost exclusively on private commissions, some of which are viewable in public spaces and museums. He likes to “avoid the comfort zone” and relishes in taking risks with his work while keeping communication steady with his client. One of his pieces, a functional glass spinning wheel, can be seen at the Renwick Gallery of the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington, D.C.
When asked to reveal his most notable accomplishment, Paiko is quick to include “supporting my family financially, in partnership with my wife who has her own creative career as a teacher, writer and ceramicist. I thank my friends, galleries and clients for their belief and interest in my work.” When not creating his glass art pieces, Paiko can be found exploring with his wife and daughter, foraging for mushrooms, swimming in rivers and riding his bike.
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See more of Andy Paiko’s work online at www.andypaikoglass.com
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game changer
The SAGE Center hosted the annual Morrow County Harvest Festival in October. Its recently completed event and conference center (seen at top right) adds 15,000 square feet of meeting and classroom space.
The Colors of SAGE Boardman’s SAGE Center is unmistakable and brimming with interactive learning written by James Sinks IF YOU’VE trekked to Eastern Oregon, chances are you’ve seen it. According to state data, each day on Interstate 84 some 19,000 vehicles blur past the eye-catching SAGE Center, a brightly painted roadside landmark since it opened in 2013 in the Columbia Plateau community of Boardman. Yet only a few of those drivers actually stop—about 1,200 to 1,500 folks visit each month. And a chunk of those are lured to the electric vehicle charging stations parked outside. As a result, while the red-, yellow- and, yes, sage-painted facility is familiar from the outside, the interior for most remains a mystery. Now, with two new projects—one indoors and the 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
other out—leaders from the center and community hope more passersby have a reason to stop, to play and also maybe to spend a few shekels in town. Built by the Port of Morrow, the SAGE—for Sustainable AGriculture and Energy—Center houses a lively interactive museum that helps show off the largely farming- and electricity-focused industries doing business at the port, a sprawling business district at the eastern mouth of the Columbia Gorge that offers convenient shipping via barge, rail or truck. Among the tenants on the port property are Tillamook, Portland General Electric and Lamb Weston, a food processor. The SAGE Center also doubles as an official Eastern Oregon welcome center for Travel Oregon, and also houses the local chamber of commerce as well as the Boardman Community Development Association, a local nonprofit that finances beautification and recreation projects to entice more people to move to a town where there are more jobs than people. Boardman is home to 4,300 residents, while port-based businesses employ more than 9,000.
Photos: SAGE Center
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of the chamber, the SAGE Center manager and the lead for the development nonprofit. The nonprofit helped spearhead one of the new SAGE projects, a partnership that paid for a new $300,000 outdoor playground that beckons energetic car-escapees with more than 4,000 square feet of equipment atop rubber matting. What does the association help to build? Using money from local governments, it has built everything from sidewalks to retrofitting a gymnasium. “We consider anything and everything that makes Boardman a better place to live and work,” she said. The other new arrival is a recently completed event and conference center that adds 15,000 square feet of meeting and classroom space, almost doubling the SAGE footprint, built with the help of a $4.3 million infusion of state funds. A grand opening gala was in November. “The SAGE Center is genuinely fulfilling its mission of educating the public on where its food and energy are derived from,” said Greg Smith, a longtime state legislator and economic development consultant from nearby Heppner who sought the appropriation. “With the Legislature’s most-recent investment, we will now be able to expand this mission to include workforce training and recruitment.” And yes, the new, connected event building maintains the SAGE Center’s distinctive paint job. Which leads to the question: What was the inspiration for it in the first place? SAGE Center houses past and current farming exhibits and the chance to harvest your own potatoes. Griggs said that when Tillamook first announced it would be setting up a satellite cheesemaking operation in Boardman, using dairy milk from the eastside to augment its operations at the It’s free to visit the welcome center, use the wifi and rest- coast, Port of Morrow directors mistakenly believed the comrooms and grab free posters and goodie bags. The interpretive pany would also be building a bright yellow-and-blue visitor center like the one that attracts more than 1 million museum, meanwhile, is $10 for adults to tour and $8 MORE ONLINE people annually to its headquarters on Highway 101 for seniors and kids. Military personnel both active To plan your visit or for and retired get in free, as do children younger than 5. more information, check in Tillamook. The idea stuck, however, and a decade later the Port Among the most popular exhibits: a tractor-driving out www.visitsage.com/ visit-sage-center built its own. And they didn’t want anybody to miss it, simulator during which you can harvest potatoes. There’s also classroom space used for field trips and regular hence they served up their own multicolored feast for the eyes. And your taste buds won’t be disappointed either: After play“science day camps” for nearby schools. “It’s STEAM education, where the A is agriculture,” said Torrie Griggs, a Boardman ing on the playground, or harvesting potatoes on a tractor simuranching family native who wears several hats as the director lator, the SAGE Center sells Tillamook ice cream.
“The SAGE Center is genuinely fulfilling its mission of educating the public on where its food and energy are derived from. With the Legislature’s most-recent investment, we will now be able to expand this mission to include workforce training and recruitment.” — Greg Smith, state representative
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One of six historic covered bridges in the small and charming town of Cottage Grove. (photo: Eugene, Cascades & Coast)
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Oregon towns that will make you question the big city life T L L OW
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I am nearing my ten-year anniversary as an Oregonian, and I still feel as though there are pockets of this state to be discovered. Coming from suburban New Jersey and having worked in New York City for almost a twenty-year stretch, I have come to appreciate the small hamlets and communities spread across our great state, which is just a tad bigger than the United Kingdom. I love the idea of escaping the hustle and bustle of our daily lives for some downtime— that is why small towns are so enticing. They offer history, charm and a laid-back pace of living. There are also plenty of opportunities to connect with nature and wildlife. We have rounded up seven of our favorite idyllic small towns and main streets in the state. Perhaps they are on your list as well. If not, spend a day or a weekend putting that to-do list away and visiting one of these delightful spots.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Cannon Beach at sunset, with seastacks looming. Wayfarer Restaurant is a good way to take in Cannon Beach culture and cuisine. Boutiques and shops in Cannon Beach keep families engaged when they’re not on the water. (photos, clockwise from top: Joni Kabana/Travel Oregon, Vesta Hospitality, Cannon Beach Photo)
Its downtown a National Historic Landmark, Jacksonville in Southern Oregon is a walkable gem of a town. (photo: Travel Oregon)
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Recognized as a National Historic Landmark town, Jacksonville sits in Southern Oregon. With approximately 3,000 residents, it boasts a vibrant downtown with quaint shops, galleries and restaurants. Best known as a Gold Rush throughway, many of the town’s original buildings remain intact, adding to its charm. The Britt Music & Arts Festival, which hosts concerts from June to September, is a huge draw.
Immerse yourself in nature at Forest Park. It spans 1,080 acres, offering more than 30 miles of trails for hiking and exploring. On clear days, you will be able to see the Siskiyou Mountains and the Three Sisters. A thirty-minute drive brings you to the beginning of the Applegate Valley Wine Trail, which features a collection of nineteen wineries to check out. There are five tasting rooms right in town to visit.
The Britt Music & Arts Festival in Jacksonville brings top acts to a great venue for experiencing music. (photo: Jay Newman/Britt Music & Arts Festival)
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With about 1,500 year-round residents, Cannon Beach and its adorable main street offer plenty of small-town charm. Book reservations at the newly remodeled Surfsand Resort. Rooms are spacious and bright, featuring flat-screen TVs, digital fireplaces and luxurious bathrooms, with some suites offering soaking tubs. Borrow cruiser bikes from the front desk to explore the downtown, which is lined with boutiques and restaurants. Visit Fetch to pick up some treats and toys for your pup. B.Boutique is owned by a motherdaughter team, Emily and Jenny, who welcome guests into their shop with enthusiasm, ready to style
and dress them. I love independent bookstores, and Cannon Beach Book Company is definitely worth a stop—it has been open for thirty years and carries a good selection of new and older books, for readers of all ages. Make reservations at Wayfarer for dinner, where you will be delighted with its many seafood options. Order a pint and splurge on the crab bake—it is a local favorite. Afterward, head down to the beach and settle into comfortable chairs as your hotel attendant prepares a bonfire for you. The cost is $50 and reservations need to be booked in advance, but it is well worth the sunset views.
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Bandon
Another coastal favorite, Bandon has charm, cuisine and stunning vistas along the coast. (photo: Bigstock)
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Another charming coastal town, Bandon sits at the southern tip of the state, about two hours from Crescent City, California. Named by George Bennett, one of the original settlers in the late 1800s, this is your classic beach town, with spectacular beaches, charming hotels and a historic lighthouse. The Old Town District is where you will find charming shops, a diverse offering of restaurants and a nice collection of art galleries. Alloro Wine Bar & Restaurant offers regional Italian fare along with an impressive wine list. The Loft Restaurant and Bar serves breakfast and lunch. It is a local favorite serving nice-sized portions with a friendly smile. You can not go wrong
with the crab cake Benedict—it is made in-house and comes with a healthy side of sautéed spinach. For lunch, you will find hearty salads and a variety of sandwich and burger options that are sure to satisfy. Make sure to visit Bullards Beach State Park to view the sand dunes for which the area is known. It is a dramatic and impressive sight—even more so if you rent a dune buggy and go out for a spin. For those who want to learn about the town’s past, head over to the Bandon Historical Society Museum, where you will find informative exhibits and artifacts. Make your way to the Coquille River Lighthouse, the very last lighthouse built in Oregon. It guided mariners from 1896 through 1939.
ABOVE, FROM LEFT Old Town Bandon is home to small galleries and big views. Commissioned in 1895, the Coquille River Lighthouse took a Fresnel lens to help mariners navigate the Bandon harbor. (photos, from left: Travel Oregon, Bigstock)
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McMinnville often gets recognized in the Willamette Valley for having a thriving downtown while neighboring Carlton gets overlooked. However, the small community of 2,300 has lots to offer. With more than twenty tasting rooms, boutiques and a solid restaurant scene, visitors can look forward to a bevy of different experiences within a compact radius. For enchanting accommodations, rest your head at Abbey Road Farm. Rooms are set inside three converted grain silos, offering luxe linens, plush beds and pastoral views. The 82-acre working farm produces small-batch bottles of pinot noir, chardonnay and sparkling rosé. A hearty homemade breakfast is included with your stay. Stroll through the idyllic main street and drop into Milltown Mercantile, which houses arts and gifts made by local artisans. You will find everything from clothing and accessories to soaps and home goods. At Park & Main, grab a table and order a wood-fired pizza (they have twelve options!) and the roasted beet salad. Ingredients are fresh and the atmosphere is casual and friendly. Besides wine tasting and shopping, you can enjoy the tranquility of nature at Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey’s Forest Trails. The monastery sits on 1,300 acres and welcomes all visitors to enjoy its forested paths for quiet contemplation.
Tiny Carlton is the heart of wine country and home to Abbey Road Farm, where you can rent a silo room. (photo: Abbey Road Farm)
The classic Main Street appeal of downtown Independence shows some of its Victorian architecture. (photo: Joshua Rainey/Travel Salem)
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Set along the Willamette River, Independence is an ideal destination for foodies and antique-lovers. You will find the main street dotted with Victorian-era towers and brick buildings dating back to the late 1800s. From the 1890s to the 1940s, the town was the epicenter for a booming hops industry and a hub for boat trade on the Willamette River. Today you will find eclectic restaurants such as Jubilee Champagne and Dessert Bar, The Inferno and Gilgamesh Brewing’s The River to satisfy diverse palettes. The Collection on Main houses a treasure trove of vintage furniture and antiques, along with new home
decor and clothing items. Also nearby is The Hidden Collection, which has more than 4,000 square feet of antiques and collectibles. Stay at The Independence Hotel, a boutique property that offers spacious accommodations, complimentary breakfast and on-site dining. Territory restaurant offers a vibrant dinner menu, using fresh and local ingredients whenever possible. When the weather is agreeable, ask for an outside table overlooking the river. Visit Independence Riverview Park, which snakes along the Willamette River and offers picturesque views and walking trails.
ABOVE A moment to celebrate atop Independence Hotel. AT LEFT Have a good pint and hand-tossed pizza at The River from Gilgamesh Brewing. (photos, from top: Joshua Rainey/Travel Salem, Polk County Tourism Alliance/ Travel Salem)
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The Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge is one of many walkable treasures of Cottage Grove. (photo: Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast)
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“Small town, big heart.” That is Cottage Grove’s motto. Known as the Covered Bridge Capital of Oregon, you will find six covered bridges in this small neighborhood, covering approximately 3.89 square miles. The oldest of them, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge, dates back to 1925, making it 100 years old. The Covered Bridges Scenic Bikeway is a 35.8-mile loop that takes you through part of the historic downtown, following the Row River, on a tour of covered bridges. The route is mostly flat and with minimal exposure to traffic.
Founded in 1888, the Historic District features buildings originally designed by notable architect John Hunzicker, who designed Eugene’s Armory. It is where you will find specialty shops, antiques and delightful restaurants, such as Urban Kitchen and The Axe and Fiddle. The town of less than 11,000 residents hosts many fun events year-round, including the annual Half Marathon and 10K, the Antique Aircraft Fly-In and the Rock, Roll n’ Rumble.
Though its population is only 11,000, Cottage Grove aims high with its annual Antique Aircraft Fly-In. (photo: Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast)
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Main Street Joseph in the shadow of the Wallowas. Zumwalt Prairie, owned by The Nature Conservancy, is a National Natural Landmark. Take out a rental kayak on Wallowa Lake and enjoy your pristine surroundings. (photos: Wallowa County Chamber of Commerce)
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Nestled at the base of the Wallowa Mountains in Eastern Oregon, Joseph is the quintessential small town with 1,200 residents and a bustling main street full of small shops, galleries and cozy eateries. There are many options when it comes to outdoor activities. Hike to the BC Falls Overlook via the Wallowa Lake Trailhead where you can see the falls and have a nice view of Wallowa Lake. The Zumwalt Prairie is a pristine, 329,600-acre landscape that features meadows, rolling hills and colorful wildflowers when in season (from mid-April to late June). To explore Wallowa Lake up close, consider renting a kayak
or paddleboard at JO Paddle. The Josephy Center for Arts and Culture offers workshops and classes, in addition to an ever-changing assortment of exhibits. The conveniently located Kokanee Inn has modern and minimalist rooms and suites. The Sierra Suite is its largest accommodation, sleeping up to seven people, with a cozy sitting area. Head over to the Stubborn Mule Saloon & Steakhouse for some casual fare. Or try The Dog Spot, a small café that serves scratch-made fare with a menu that changes weekly. They also have an outdoor seating area for you and your pups.
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SPRAY NOTICE W
Herbicides are quietly simplifying and tainting Western Oregon’s timberlands
written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil
ESTERN OREGON is a fertile land. The conifer forests that expand west from the Cascade Crest to the coast grow on some of the world’s most productive forestland. Plenty of rain, rich soil and enough sun nourish all sorts of plant life here. The area is the country’s top producer of softwood lumber and plywood, necessary goods that Oregon can naturally provide.
With only conifers in mind, primarily Douglas fir, foresters here have long considered competition from other plants a hindrance to reforestation. Water, sunlight and soil nutrients are precious commodities for a merchantable crop like trees, so landowners prioritizing timber production insist these elements feed conifer seedlings and nothing more in the first several years after replanting. Herbicides help them do that. Herbicides, however, don’t just make way for the re-emerging forest. Their lethal power undermines the foundation of a healthy forest by eradicating other important plants like hardwoods and broadleaf shrubs. This, in turn, affects the animals, birds and
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insects that rely on such understory plants for habitat and food. Herbicides, many of which can pose severe health problems for humans and for endangered species like salmon, also make their way into the streams and rivers that drain the forests. Ever since their introduction into Oregon’s woods in the 1960s, herbicides have served as a linchpin in forestry here. Herbicides have also fueled passions and debate over their harm to humans and the forest ecosystem. Whether or not Oregon needs herbicides to produce profitable timber depends on how you look at it. For those in favor of a healthy, resilient, functioning forest, the widescale use of herbicides deserves questioning.
A replanted Douglas fir on state forestland, with plenty of room to grow.
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n forestry, herbicides serve two purposes. One involves the control of invasive plants like Scotch broom and Himalayan blackberry that can quickly replace native plant species. Even herbicide skeptics accept this targeted use. The other, far more widely used purpose is to eliminate any vegetation that, post-clearcut, might compete with replanted conifer seedlings. Here begins the polemic of herbicide use in Oregon’s forests. Some of the most popular herbicides used on Oregon’s forests include familiar names and usual suspects. Glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, is considered a “probable” carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. Another standard forestry herbicide, atrazine, is banned in the European Union. The herbicide 2,4-D is listed as a “possible” carcinogen by the IARC, and was one of two key components in Agent Orange—the other component, 2,4,5-T, triggered enough controversy in Oregon’s woods in the 1970s that it isn’t used here anymore. Because the state’s arid east side doesn’t grow a raucous understory of plants, herbicide use affects forests in Western Oregon. The total amount used each year remains unknown
because spray application records are not routinely reported to any governmental agency. But a study by Oregon State University researchers found that chemical applications cover “potentially 1 million acres of Oregon forest land annually, with the vast majority of these herbicides being applied to harvested units.” How herbicides are applied, or not applied at all, matters. Controlling competitive vegetation is only necessary after replanting a clearcut, a disturbance that opens the land up to the plants, including invasives, that emerge to re-establish the natural order. Spraying herbicides is the norm across most of Western Oregon’s industrial and state-owned timberlands, which account for nearly three-quarters of the timber harvest here, and where clearcutting remains king. A dose—or two, or three, or maybe four—of herbicides arrests competition in the first few years of post-clearcut regeneration. Ground-based applications, often with backpack sprayers, offer a somewhat precise method for applying herbicides. But on rugged terrain, all too common in Western Oregon, aerial spraying takes over. Like a crop duster, a plane or helicopter covers the clearcut, leaving wind drift as a serious, contentious issue because the toxic spray can travel far from its intended target, into waterways and onto communities. In 2017, Lincoln County voted to ban aerial herbicide spraying, the first county in the nation to do so. But a judge overturned the ban because Oregon state law preempts county rules on pesticide use. Competitive vegetation and invasives can be controlled without herbicides—mechanically, with chainsaws and bulldozers—but this requires extra time, labor and expense. The Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management prove it’s possible, but they don’t manage their lands exclusively for timber, and they don’t clearcut in Western Oregon anymore. Heavy logging and spraying led to a federal court injunction in 1984 that prohibits those agencies from using herbicides, with exceptions for invasives. Jim Furnish, who served as the Siuslaw National Forest supervisor in the 1990s and later as deputy chief of the Forest Service, admitted that herbicide-free forestry wasn’t easy. “It was more costly, more labor intensive,” he once told a reporter. “But forestry in Oregon is profitable under many different scenarios. The Forest Service just saddled itself to a different horse and rode off into the future.”
W Tall grass cloaks a determined young Sitka spruce.
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hen droplets of herbicide hit the earth, certain, or all, plants soon die. With them goes biodiversity, the backbone of a healthy forest. Like a symphony, biodiversity relies on a wide range of contributors. The variety of early-successional plants that sprout after a disturbance, like wildfire or a clearcut, work hard to renew life below and above ground, offering habitat to the many species of fauna that make a forest ecosystem complete.
Before replanting, this industrial clearcut will be burned and herbicide sprayed, then sprayed again after replanting.
“If you look at the developmental sequence from a disturbance, the early-successional ecosystem is the most biodiverse stage in the entire developmental period of the forest,” said Dr. Jerry Franklin, a forest ecologist and University of Washington emeritus professor world-renowned for bringing a new, holistic view to forest management in the Pacific Northwest. Herbicides inhibit the early-successional forest, and Franklin often cannot believe his eyes. “If it’s green, and it’s not a Douglas fir, kill it,” he said, mocking the dominant view of intensive forestry. “When you see some of the harvest units in Western Oregon, it’s stunning. They’re brown. There’s nothing green out there. They’ve cleaned it all off and then sprayed it, and there isn’t anything out there until they get some trees growing again. It’s brown-earth forestry.” The consequences of repeated herbicide treatments strike deep. After multiple harvest cycles and the accompanying herbicide sprays, crucial plant species can disappear altogether, along with their seed banks underground and any speciesdependent fauna. On steeper, denuded terrain, barren topsoil can slide downslope, complicating forest regeneration. “To treat such an ecosystem as a farm blows my mind,” said Dr. Deke Gundersen, who taught environmental toxicology
When you see some of the harvest units in Western Oregon, it’s stunning. They’re brown. There’s nothing green out there. They’ve cleaned it all off and then sprayed it, and there isn’t anything out there until they get some trees growing again. It’s brown-earth forestry.” — Dr. Jerry Franklin, forest ecologist and University of Washington emeritus professor
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at Pacific University for twenty-three years, where he is now professor emeritus. “Let’s cut everything down, replant with the same species, and spray it with herbicides to make sure nothing else grows. I guess we don’t want forests anymore, is what we’re saying, because to me a forest is a multi-layered, complex, diverse system that provides a variety of benefits for the organisms that inhabit that system and for the people living near that system.” A forest simplified by herbicides cannot work in all of its mysterious, wondrous ways—from cleaning our water and capturing carbon to providing habitat for elk, salmon and other foods. Simplified forests also lie more vulnerable to the effects of climate change, including losing their resilience to, and ability to recover from, wildfire. Dr. Matthew Betts, an Oregon State University professor and Ruth Spaniol Chair in the Department of Forest Ecosystems and Society, has studied forest biodiversity closely. In 2009, he and colleagues undertook an experiment in Oregon’s Coast Range to evaluate the effects of different herbicide regimes: from none at all, to a light, moderate and intensive treatment. They then spent years measuring biodiversity in the form of birds, mammals, insects, replanted conifers and more. 64 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
“We found, of course, that herbicides reduce plant richness—that’s what they’re designed to do,” Betts said. “And that does have a bottom-up effect on biodiversity. If you reduce plant richness, you tend to get fewer arthropods, you tend to get reduced numbers of bees, and for some species of birds, the effect was quite negative, especially in the first three or four years of the study, the negative effects jumped out.” While Betts and colleagues found that herbicide treatments increased yield significantly, up to 30 percent under the intensive application, they also observed relatively little overall difference in biodiversity between the “light” treatment—one herbicide spray before replanting—and the nonherbicide control areas. The Oregon Department of Forestry employs a version of this “light” application on state forestlands. Where seedlings are struggling, a second treatment is applied—last year, about one-third was resprayed. According to John Walter, ODF State Forest Division silviculturist, longer harvest rotations—growing trees for fifty to eighty years—allow for less herbicide. “It depends on your goals,” Walter said. “With state forest, if the goal is an 80-year-old stand at final, we don’t need to get those trees rocketing out of the ground by controlling all
Oregon’s state forests are often clearcut the same as industrial lands, but sprayed less and allowed to grow longer. AT LEFT Deke Gundersen enjoys the biodiversity and mature Douglas firs in these woods near Forest Grove.
the vegetation,” Walter said. “If it’s a little bit slower, that’s fine because they will still get to be big, mature trees at 80.” Industrial forestry follows what Betts labeled a “moderate” spray program. Short rotations, between thirty and fifty years, followed by multiple sprays over the course of several years is the typical industrial regime, even though the Douglas fir’s growth spurt begins around age 40 and ends at about age 100. Nearly all of today’s industrial timberland owners are some form of investment organization. Return on capital dictates their forest management plans, and market economics require forests be harvested young. Herbicides help speed things up. “We don’t apologize from a private-land standpoint,” said Seth Barnes, director of forest policy for the Oregon Forest Industries Council (OFIC), a trade association representing industrial timberland owners. “We’re growing trees to meet the world’s lumber demand.” Barnes recognizes that by eliminating competitive plants in the early phase of a replanted forest, herbicides prove their value in added tree growth. “Herbicides are an important tool for us to use, and really the only tool in some instances to ensure that the forest is re-established in a timely manner.”
In a way, Oregon law encourages the use of herbicides after a clearcut harvest on state and private timberlands. The “free-togrow” requirement in the state’s Forest Practices Act states that replanted conifers must be taller than competing vegetation by their sixth year. Those opposed to the widespread use of herbicides argue that “free-to-grow” made sense before reforestation was required, but no longer today—modern tree nurseries and replanting techniques have evolved so much that controlling competition with herbicides is unnecessary. Industrial forestland owners have no complaints about “freeto-grow” because it’s already in their best financial interest to replant quickly and efficiently. In fact, herbicides help them attain another state-mandated threshold, the “green-up” rule. Before a stand can be clearcut, that landowner’s trees in adjacent parcels must be “free-to-grow.” The sooner a clearcut is “freeto-grow,” the sooner the neighboring stand can be cut and sold. Today’s short-rotation forestry looks short-sighted to Franklin. “The only people who benefit from it are people who essentially own the forest in order to get a return on investment,” he said. “Most small private, non-industrial landowners don’t do that. They don’t own the land in order to maximize the capital return from that land. They have other values.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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ABOVE Nancy Webster, at the Jetty Creek water treatment plant, the source of her drinking water and plenty of controversy. AT RIGHT Oregon’s privately owned timberland is a patchwork of young, regrowing stands and fresh clearcuts.
P
ublic and private forestlands provide more than three-quarters of Oregon’s municipal water supplies. Yet data on herbicide toxicity goes lacking. For one thing, experiments on humans are not an option. Funding is limited. And testing is problematic because the chemical companies are responsible for testing their own products, and they only analyze the active ingredient, not the actual product. “It’s like the fox watching the henhouse,” Gundersen said. “We really don’t know a hundred percent how safe they are. Particularly here in the Pacific Northwest, very little, if any, studies look at the direct impacts of these herbicides and related chemicals on human health, especially when it’s related to drinking water.” Beyond the direct effects of chemicals, indirect effects from clearcuts and herbicides can also imperil drinking water. Sediment caused by logging roads and by brown, herbicide-treated slopes enters drinking watersheds, especially along the Oregon Coast. When the organic matter in the sediment reacts with chlorine used for disinfecting tap water, chemical byproducts such as trihalomethanes form, and these can cause cancer and reproductive problems.
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We really don’t know a hundred percent how safe [herbicides] are. Particularly here in the Pacific Northwest, very little, if any, studies look at the direct impacts of these herbicides and related chemicals on human health, especially when it’s related to drinking water.” — Dr. Deke Gundersen, Pacific University professor emeritus
been exposed, or some people don’t like the clearcutting and fear for their drinking water.” A 2018 survey of Oregon Coast voters, commissioned by OFIC, found similar results—a majority approved of logging, but disapproved of aerial spraying. “Voters who have immediate family employed in the timber industry or are employed themselves oppose aerial pesticides at the same rate as voters overall,” the report said.
O
Rockaway Beach sources its drinking water from Jetty Creek, a series of steep drainages just northeast of town. The watershed was intact in the late 1990s, but since the early 2000s, industrial timber companies have removed nearly 90 percent of that forest. Residents began receiving water quality alerts for toxins like trihalomethanes in 2005. Eventually a new $2 million water treatment plant was required to filter out the sediment. The city is now raising funds to buy the watershed. Rockaway Beach resident Nancy Webster co-founded North Coast Communities for Watershed Protection in 2012, demanding that timberland owners stop logging and spraying in watersheds. Similar groups have since organized up and down the Oregon Coast. “The industry is deciding what the best protections are for our watersheds,” Webster said. In response, Webster, whose father worked in Oregon’s timber industry, and other volunteers raise community awareness through actions like circulating petitions against aerial herbicide spraying. “People from the timber industry come up and sign the petition, and it’s shocking. They tell us their stories. Some people have
regonians can use their voices, wallets, votes and citizens’ initiatives to shape the present and future of forests here. New objectives, like encouraging hardwoods that provide benefits such as wildfire resilience and increased water supply, could be pursued. Prohibiting pesticide spraying, and requiring eighty-year rotations, in drinking watersheds would boost biodiversity while protecting Oregon communities. Incentives not to use herbicides, and community-owned forests, present other options. All of this can coexist with the necessary, respectable task of cutting trees for wood. Removing the “free-to-grow” requirement would allow small private forestland owners to pass on herbicides, or they could instead harvest trees from their land without relying on clearcutting and herbicides. The easiest way to limit those chemicals is to stop clearcutting, like the federal agencies did forty years ago. “If our goal is to produce wood, we would extend harvest rotations and then get more wood per acre that way instead of having these super-short harvest rotations with herbicide,” Betts said, with a caveat. “The potential consequence is that we need to expand our forestry footprint. If we’re not regenerating forests fast enough, it means we need to go somewhere else to get timber. The best thing we can do is to reduce wood consumption, but that doesn’t seem to be happening at the moment.” As this century advances, bringing with it greater threats from a changing climate, a re-think of how Oregon uses its forests, a revaluation, is in order. “We need to step back and take a look at our forests, to see what we’re really getting from them as a whole, and not look at them as just a source of lumber,” Gundersen said. “I think there’s a lot more that human beings can gain from our forests than just wood products.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
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Find kintsugi artist and master conservator Naoko Fukumaru’s work on display at Portland Japanese Garden in January. (photo: Arthur Hitchcock)
Perfectly Imperfect: The Art of Kintsugi written by Kerry Newberry | photography courtesy of Portland Japanese Garden
SOMETIMES WE need a reminder of the beauty and balance found in embracing imperfection. Enter the art form of kintsugi, a centuries-old Japanese craft of restoring broken objects like ceramics or glass in a way that highlights rather than hides imperfections. Kintsugi—which means to “join with gold”—uses urushi (a gold-dusted lacquer) to exquisitely repair chips and cracks in pottery. The philosophy is that by illuminating flaws, the object takes on a deeper beauty and meaning. For artist and conservator Naoko Fukumaru, kintsugi is a way to accept the ever-present imperfections and
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impermanence found in life. You can see how Fukumaru blends traditional and contemporary methods with pieces she’s restored at the Portland Japanese Garden. On display through January 27, Kintsugi: The Restorative Art of Naoko Fukumaru showcases seventy-three pieces by the renowned artist. Some of the most evocative and unexpected objects in the exhibit range from an ethereal sea urchin shell to an ancient terracotta amphora layered with oceanic encrustations. Each piece offers poetic pause and a reflection on what a gift it is to live in our perfectly imperfect world.
Ocean Scars, 2019, sea urchins, urushi lacquer, calcium carbonate, resin and 24K gold (photo: Naoko Fukumaru) This broken sea urchin shell was the first natural object that Fukumaru tried to repair with kintsugi. The careful restoration is supplemented with red thread to hold together the missing sections. In Japanese culture, red thread represents destined bonds of human connection. The fragility of the delicate shell is held together by these connecting threads, evoking human efforts to both heal nature and be healed by nature.
FROM TOP Timeless Magic, 2023, Taisho era (1912 -1926), black raku ware, urushi lacquer, 24K gold and resin (photo: Naoko Fukumaru) Fukumaru at work. (photo: Naoko Fukumaru)
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Beauty of the Deep Sea, 2023, Roman imperial period, 2nd-4th Century C.E., terracotta transport amphora, oceanic encrustations, calcium carbonate, resin, urushi lacquer and 24K gold (photo: Arthur Hitchcock) This amphora is an example of ancient Roman pottery used on trading voyages. Shipwrecked at sea, it spent centuries underwater, slowly becoming enveloped in oceanic encrustations— the remnants of marine worm tubes, barnacles and shells covering the surface. Fukumaru’s only kintsugi repair was a chip along its rim.
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Fukumaru applies a layer of urushi lacquer to achieve a smooth surface of the broken joins as part of the kintsugi method of mending. (photo: Naoko Fukumaru) AT LEFT, FROM TOP Adaptability, 2024, 1820-1860, old Imari porcelain made at Shigeemon kiln, urushi lacquer, resin, plaster and 24K gold (photo: Arthur Hitchcock) For Fukumaru, crabs represent adaptability and growth for their ability to shed their other layers as they navigate life’s challenges and adapt to new situations. The crab’s shell is decorated with golden maki-e lines weaving a pattern across the surface. Combined with the warped bowl, the piece serves as a reminder to stay resilient and flexible in the face of adversity. Grow Older, 2022, circa 5th Century, Kofun period, pottery, urushi lacquer, calcium carbonate, resin and 24K gold (photo: Naoko Fukumaru) Potential, 2024, 1820-1860, old Imari porcelain made in Hirose kiln, urushi lacquer, resin, 24K gold and plaster (photo: Arthur Hitchcock) For Fukumaru, frogs symbolize potential. Growing from a tiny tadpole swimming in the water to a creature who can hop, climb and sing, the frog demonstrates the capacity for something simple to evolve into something magnificent. Here, the kiln-fused broken porcelain cups are joined with crystal forms. The maki-e designs on the frog’s skin evoke a sense of electricity and life.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 76 ADVENTURE 78 LODGING 82 TRIP PLANNER 84
pg. 84 The geometry of Newberg, one of Willamette Valley’s richest viticulture experiences.
Andrea Johnson/Chehalem Winery, courtesy of Taste Newberg
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 90
James Stolen
travel spotlight
Heritage and Surprise
Mercantile store M. Crow in Lostine brings world-class bespoke goods to its floor written by Joni Kabana
Beauty, craft and function come together at M. Crow in Lostine.
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WHO DOESN’T love an old mercantile store, especially one that was opened and run by the same family for over a century? Driving through the tiny town of Lostine, one can’t miss the iconic M. Crow building, which has stood the test of time through multiple cultural changes. M. Crow was built in 1906 and run by the Crow family until 2012, when Wallowa County native Tyler Hays purchased the building to keep it from closing. Hays’ family and the Crow family were homesteaders in the late 1880s, so the purchase of the building has kept a heritage line of operation. Hays left the same old signage on the front of the building, which both confuses and delights visitors. What a surprising sight one experiences upon entering! Today, M. Crow is home to Hays’ myriad passions, from brewing beer to making and selling furniture, denim, ceramics and other clothing. M. Crow is definitely worthy of more than a drive-by or peek into its doors. Inside, Hays has updated the interior but maintained the “let’s gather and tell stories” feel that the original M. Crow general store held sacred. The building is host to all kinds of events and activities, still serving as a long-time hub for the community. Peruse the handmade jeans, accessories and pottery before grabbing a chair (or sitting on an M. Crow handcrafted bar stool) to sip on an M. Crow beer while eating an M. Crow pizza or other concoction that will surely satisfy the most curious taste buds. Everything handmade, with high regard to historical impressions.
adventure
Snowshoeing in Central Oregon brings you to places such as Tumalo Mountain, Virginia Meissner Sno-Park and others for scenic outings.
Moveable Feasts Snowshoe picnics are a gateway for embracing winter trails written by Cathy Carroll
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adventure
Central Oregon Snowshoeing allows for fully absorbing the from Bend—just far enough away from civilizawinter beauty surrounding you. In an alpine for- tion to fully exhale, but close enough to fit into est near Bend, take in the chartreuse lichen hang- the schedule of busy friends. The picnic could ing from the cinnamon branches of ponderosas have been an easy DIY, but was bumped up by against a cloudless, azure sky. Snow tops tree PACAYA, a local outfit offering easy-yet-elevated snags like stiff peaks of meringue or jaunty white meals for your camp, RV or cabin, from berry and berets, transforming them into your chocolate chip pancakes and WestMORE SPOTS FOR A maître d’s of the woods, ready to ern omelettes to sage brown-butter SNOWSHOE PICNIC usher you to your place setting. gnocchi and flatiron steak with chi• Skyliners Sno-Park With sun streaming between the michurri and fire-roasted vegetables. • Todd Lake Loop Trail green-needled canopy, a hefty log In the shadow of Broken Top and • Shevlin Loop Trail was the table for a picnic we proMount Washington and surrounded • Tumalo Mountain duced from a daypack: chunks of by the Deschutes National Forest, • Peak View Snowshoe Trail you’ll find a separate peace snowsharp, aged cheddar, grainy pecori• Wanoga Sno-Park no and salty, smoky slices of Iberico shoeing out from Black Butte Ranch Snowshoe Trails cured pork, dried apricots, Spanish resort just northwest of Sisters. Grab • Upper Three Creeks olives, anchovy fillets, rosemary snowshoes at Glaze Meadow Rental Sno-Park crackers and thin potato chips made Shop and tread lightly on Cascade crispy in Spanish olive oil and drizzled with bal- powder and out across the Big Meadow or Glaze samic vinegar. Meadow golf courses. If you want to get deeper A palm-sized crottin of brie with dried cherries into the woods, head 13 miles west on Highway 20 tasted like New York cheesecake. In our jacket to Santiam Sno-Park, where you’ll find miles of pockets, Walking Tamales from Mexico, inge- snow-covered trails that range from beginner to niously sealed in slim packaging, let our bodies advanced. Note, you’ll need a sno-park permit for act as toaster ovens. Santiam Sno-Park. You can pick one up at Black Our group bonded over the shared natural Butte’s rental shop. beauty and eclectic snacks, with snowshoeing ofTake a turkey wrap and water with you from fering an accessible, unintimidating gateway to Black Butte Ranch’s General Store or pastries experiencing the mountains in winter. Whether and a thermos of tea or coffee if you’re making a you’re seeking a cardio boost through deep pow- morning run. Or just finish back at the Ranch and der or bringing people of diverse abilities together cozy up to the fireplace at Robert’s Pub outside, snowshoeing satisfies. with a Black Butte Porter in hand and a We’d followed the snowshoe trail at Virginia pop of color in your cheeks. There are Meissner Sno-Park, about a twenty-minute drive no wrong answers here.
Dylan VanWeelden/Visit Central Oregon
PACAYA
Bend’s PACAYA brings the goods when it comes to camp meals, such as sage brown-butter gnocchi (at left) and flatiron steak with chimichurri and fire-roasted vegetables.
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Photos: Visit Hood River
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Snowshoeing in the stunning Mount Hood National Forest. At Pine Street Bakery in Hood River, grab good bread and a banh mi for the hike. The iconic breakfast sandwich from River Daze in Hood River.
The Gorge The Gorge is as bountiful in homegrown, artisan winter picnic items as it is in snowshoeing trails. For the former, head to Hood River gourmet market and delicatessen Boda’s Kitchen to order online and pick up daypack delights such as a ham and brie panini with house-made pear jam and honey mustard or massaman chicken and vegetable curry. Eschew the energy bar for a seasonal cheesecake bar such as white chocolate and huckleberry with graham cracker crust. MORE SPOTS FOR A Dig up Local Rhoots and order SNOWSHOE PICNIC Spanish-influenced, slow-cooked pork • Little John Sno-Park belly with hominy, zucchini, tomatoes and Campground and pasilla chilis or creamy, garlicky • Meadows Creek Tie Trail risotto with local green beans and • Pocket Creek Sno-Park mushrooms, parmesan and thyme. • Pocket Creek Tie Trail Heading out early? Hit River Daze for • Tilly Jane Ski Trail #643 organic egg-and-cheese with bacon, or • Tilly Jane Sno-Park spicy mayo, sprouts and avocado on a house-made sourdough English muffin. Pack the pastrami-sauerkraut-havarti sandwich or Oregon line-caught albacore tuna melt on house-made French bread. At Pine Street Bakery, bag a banh mi, with pasture-raised heirloom chicken in a garlic chili sauce with kraut-chi and housemade pickled cucumbers and carrots, fresh jalapeños, cilantro and mayo on a lightly toasted baguette. If the moist carrot cake cupcake with cream cheese frosting gets squished in your pack, it still will be delicious out on the trails. At Cooper Spur Nordic Center on the north side of Mount Hood, you can rent snowshoes and hit beginner to advanced level terrain on more than 4 miles of trails shared with Nordic skiers. 80 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Teacup Nordic, run by a dedicated corps of volunteers, offers more than 12 miles of groomed trails from beginner to challenging terrain.
Southern Oregon At Mount Ashland, snowshoeing the groomed backcountry trails rewards with views of Mount Shasta, Siskiyou Crest, Mount McLoughlin and the Rogue Valley. Bring picnic items from Sammich such as eggplant with red pepper, arugula and garlic-feta spread with balsamic vinaigrette on sourdough. Other good sources: Ashland Food Coop and The Breadboard, which offers a variety of sandwiches, including a French dip with grilled onions, mushrooms and melted Swiss. Rent snowshoes at Mountain Provisions in Ashland or Black Bird in Medford. Ashland’s Roguetrotter provides gear and offers a bonfire snowshoe tour. They haul a pulk, or ski sled, full of firewood to Siskiyou Crest. Watch the sun go down by the fire as you make s’mores. Oregon’s crown jewel, Crater Lake National Park, offers ranger-guided snowshoe walks atop its annual average of 42 feet of snow at 1 p.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays through April and during spring break, March 24 through 28. Cover a mile or two of moderate-to-strenuous off-trail terrain through the forests and meadows along the rim of Crater Lake for two hours. Gain insight from rangers about how plants, animals and people survive the harsh conditions. It’s less harsh if you get lunch at the park’s cafe. On days when the road to Rim Village is closed, you’ll explore the forests and meadows near the park headquarters.
Discover more ways to
Winter
At Sunriver Resort, enjoying all the season has to offer comes
with as much ease as possible. Whether seeking powder or pamper, first tracks or après snacks, winter here comes with less hassle and way more fun. It’s as easy as one, two, ski.
BOOK YOUR WINTER GETAWAY AT SUNRIVERRESORT.COM OR CALL 855-783-8813
lodging
BUNGALOWS For painterly views of the Cascade mountain range along with luxury amenities, book one of sixteen bungalows. The newest addition to the high-desert getaway, each bungalow has a private patio and alfresco hot tub, along with a stylish fireplace and modern Scandinavian design. Other bungalow perks include breakfast delivery each morning and an adults-only pool.
Brasada Ranch
WELLNESS Enjoy the ultimate wellness retreat—especially in the wintry months—by unwinding at the full-service spa with signature treatments, and sign up for a range of classes at the Athletic Center including pilates, yoga and meditation. There’s also a year-round eighteen-hole golf course along with opulent pools, tennis courts and pickleball.
Wild Rye
Brasada Ranch
NATURE
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Cascade Bungalows blend Scandinavian design and modern comfort. Brasada Ranch, outside of Bend, offers horseback riding through sagebrush. Its restaurant, Wild Rye, serves smoked beef carpaccio among other delicacies.
Brasada Ranch written by Kerry Newberry NEED A BREAK from the wintry rain without booking a flight? Head to the high desert sun of Central Oregon for a sojourn on the range at Brasada Ranch. Located just twenty minutes outside of Bend, the luxury retreat recently added sixteen new private mountain bungalows to the resort property. Embracing Scandinavian design and contemporary comfort, each stylish bungalow has a private patio and outdoor soaking tub. You can hike snow-dusted trails just steps away and then cozy up by your fireplace with looming mountain views. While you can also book their popular ranch house suites and canyon cabins, the bungalows have singular amenities, from breakfast delivery each morning to a quiet pool. 16986 SW BRASADA RANCH ROAD BEND/POWELL BUTTE www.brasada.com
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Set on an astounding 1,800 acres of sprawling high-desert terrain, you can hike sagespeckled trails that wind up to pink sky sunsets. Or saddle up and explore the meandering trails by horseback. The wrangler-guided experiences range from private lessons to family-friendly rides that wander by ancient juniper trees and Cascade Mountain views.
DINING Expect upscale, farm-to-table fare at the on-site restaurant Wild Rye. Oysters are dressed with a sweet-and-tangy huckleberry mignonette, and a veg-friendly, crispy delicata squash arrives drizzled with high desert honey. Specialties like the smoked beef carpaccio feature pickled foraged mushrooms, and the umami-packed Fifty Dollar Burger is topped with truffle aioli and foie gras.
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trip planner
Newberg in its element, at Ambar Estate, an organic winery in the Willamette Valley.
Newberg Unhurried and mellow, Newberg develops its own vintage cachet
ON HIS 81st birthday, Herbert Hoover stepped back in time, and onto the porch of the Newberg cottage where he moved as a child. The only president to call Oregon home, he’d arrived in 1885 at the age of 9 after being orphaned in Iowa, to live with his aunt and uncle. Seventy years later, in 1955, he returned as guest-ofhonor for the dedication of his onetime house as a museum, plus nearby Hoover Park and Herbert Hoover Boulevard. “Here I roamed the primitive forests with their carpets of their flowers and their ferns and the never-forgettable fragrance,” the former president reminisced, eliciting chuckles when he noted there also were no wardens checking fishing licenses. “From those impressions,” he said, “comes always the call to return, again and again.” That’s the sort of frequent flyer sentiment you’re still likely to hear about Newberg and the surrounding countryside. Although today, unlike in yesteryear, the rationale tends to be a little boozier. Founded just upriver from the birthplace of the Oregon territory, Newberg in its infancy attracted Quaker settlers and their liquor-loathing values, leading to a citywide ban that stood until 1967. 84
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Fast-forward to today, and the once-dry town is the primary gateway from Portland to Oregon’s lush (and lush attracting) pinot noir territory. More than sixty wineries, including pinot pioneer Adelsheim, claim Newberg addresses. Yet while the loamy, grape-loving soil nearby may yield some dazzling vintages, Newberg can often feel overlooked compared to its better-known Yamhill County wine cousin of McMinnville. But that’s nothing to lament. The pace is unhurried, the backcountry uncrowded. In some ways, Newberg feels like an unpretentious throwback, with cachet. Street parking is free. At many wineries, the winemaker still pours. The city is home to the Willamette Valley’s only remaining drive-in movie theater. At the same time, the vintages are extraordinary. Some say it even reminds them of long-ago Napa. (As if to prove that point, longtime Napa Valley winery owner and fivetime Oscar-winning director Francis Ford Coppola now also has an operation here.) If you’re still doing New Year’s resolutions and that means not drinking, you’ll still find plenty to savor. But if Dry January isn’t your thing, Newberg absolutely could be.
Photo: Taste Newberg
written by James Sinks
Taste this: Explore Oregon’s Wine Country through our website.
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(541) 385-3062
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Day Young Hoover offers an important lesson for wine country visiting: Moderation matters. On his first day in Newberg, he recalled, he ate so many pears—he’d never seen them before— that it made him violently sick, and he avoided the fruit for years. For $7.50, it’s a quick tour of the nonprofit-run, two-floored museum, where the pear tree still stands outside. Hoover’s uncle, Dr. Henry J. Minthorn, ran the local Friends Academy, which would become George Fox University. He also was a punishing superintendent at the Indian Boarding School in Forest Grove. Weather permitting afterward, stretch your legs and rotator cuffs at Hoover Park, where there’s a frisbee golf course. Winner can buy the first of many rounds, starting a block away at Chehalem Winery, in a handsome brick wine bar. The historic Newberg downtown stretches eight blocks with tasting rooms on each end and clustered between. Good Company Cheese & Wine Shop is exactly what it says it is, with a case full of dairy-derived magic, plus pairings and classes. A cheesemonger’s board is $18. Need a pause from drinking? You’ll find reasons, and paws, at nonprofit ARK Pet Rescue, where it’s free to hang out while adoptable kittens scamper underfoot, in a room with a pink cat mural. There are also guinea pigs. Donations are welcome. Wine is art in a glass, and wine and artistry also pair nicely. At Art Elements Gallery, some sixty local painters and creators are featured. Nearby in a schoolhouse-turned-Chehalem Cultural Center, a multicultural “We Are Oregon” exhibit changes monthly. In the mid-1960s, the late Ken Austin imagined a suction system to make it easier for dentists and patients, and Austin Dental Equipment Company, or A-dec, grew into the nation’s largest privately owned dental equipment supplier, and Newberg’s biggest employer. That success also led to the showpiece hotel of Oregon wine country, which doesn’t suck. Opened in 2009 but still very much new, the Austin familydeveloped Allison Inn & Spa and restaurant Jory—named after the soil that makes the Willamette famous—routinely attract national list-topper accolades. In 2024, U.S. News & World Report named it the state’s best hotel. If it’s light outside, prowl the grounds and admire outdoor art like a herd of metallic sheep and “Odyssey,” a 12-foot-high spiky red steel sculpture you wouldn’t want to sit on. Like it? It’s yours for $18,000. For dinner in town, the fun-to-say Newbergundian Bistro has French-inspired fare and, yes, wine. Or at Forage there’s woodfired pizza and wine. Yet don’t linger too long. Downtown in a World War II-era quonset hut is Artist Block Winery’s Q-Hut, a gallery with whimsical mixed-media art and beverages until 8 p.m. 86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Taste Newberg
HISTORY • HOTELS • HIDDEN DOORS
A popular spot in downtown Newberg, Good Company Cheese & Wine Shop.
Behind a painting that boasts “I drink to make other people more interesting,” a hidden doorway opens into the dimly lit Alpha Bravo lounge, which feels a little Gatsby, and a lot awesome. Here, glass in hand, everything about Newberg feels more interesting, and then some.
Day WATERSHED • WILD WEST • WINE It was a watershed moment, followed by a watery one. In 1843, settlers in Champoeg narrowly voted to form Oregon’s provisional government. Less than two decades later, in 1861, the flooding Willamette wiped out most of the riverfront enclave. Ten minutes from Newberg by car, Champoeg State Heritage Area is a place where you can explore pioneer history—busloads of schoolkids often do—and explore ways to get sweaty. One option: It’s 4 miles along a paved path to the circa-1863 Butteville general store, the oldest continuously-operating store in the state. Oregon produces 99 percent of the nation’s hazelnuts, and south of Champoeg you’ll find miles of Instagram-ready orchards
The Allison Inn & Spa
The Allison Inn & Spa is one of the top lodging properties in Oregon’s wine country.
(and has a stunning new tasting room), but the Ponzi family still kept roots in the local food scene. With side-by-side restaurants in Dundee, Fratelli Ponzi and The Dundee Bistro, the next generations of Ponzis invite foodies to savor farm-to-table and ocean-to-table menus. At the bistro, dive into steamer clams, halibut and prawn linguine. Don’t miss the affogato with Italian espresso for dessert. Not ready for bed? Back in Newberg, at aptly named Social Goods Market, socializing is in order—with craft beers and cocktails, sometimes trivia and predictably good company.
The Dundee Bistro
and one hazelnut-starring farmstore. Open year-round, Ken & June’s sells raw, roasted and chocolate-covered versions, plus their own version of Nutella. More than 150 years ago, the Oregon farm town of St. Paul was an economic center, and it’s still home to the state’s oldest brick building—the Catholic church built in 1839. Now, it’s best known for its annual Independence Day rodeo, first held in 1936. The first year, fifty cowboys jockeyed for $500. Now, the total purse is a half million, with almost 1,000 entrants. When there aren’t buckaroos and rodeo queens in town, quickly sidle up for coffee at Banker’s Cup, in a former bank, and prevent caffeine withdrawals. Next door at farmer-founded Harvester Taproom, there’s meat many ways, plus pizza and shrimp skewers. Like yeast and so many Yamhill communities, Dundee’s fortunes are rising with the wine industry. And while it’s tempting to sample the wares of every vintner, remember the advice of Hoover. Don’t overdo it. Feeling effervescent? Sparkling wine mainstay Argyle pours in downtown Dundee or try the scenic and newly opened Domaine Willamette, a project of Salem-based Willamette Valley Vineyards. At Brick House Wine, launched by a former CBS international correspondent, sip sublime organic pinot noirs and chardonnays on an idyllic patio or in the uncrowded barn. And, yes, there’s a brick house. At Utopia Winery, find bocce, a delicious whole cluster pinot and—if you’re lucky—lively conversation with owner, winemaker and onetime competitive swimmer Dan Warnshuis, who planted the vineyard in 2000. He laughs that he joined the wine business at 24 because, like many vintners, he had a drinking problem. In 1970, Dick and Nancy Ponzi opened one of the first four wineries in the Willamette Valley, specializing in Burgundy styles. The winery sold in 2021 to a French Champagne maker
Pair a flourless chocolate torte with an Oregon pinot noir at The Dundee Bistro.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 87
Taste Newberg
trip planner
ABOVE Domaine Lumineux in Newberg is home to the local wine brand of director Francis Ford Coppola. AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The speakeasy-ish venue of Brixeur Spirits at Trisaetum Winery. Cliff Creek Cellars’ tasting room, with local art on display. Chapters bookstore in downtown Newberg, with an indie spirit.
Day SPA DAY • SMALL-BATCH WHISKEY • COPPOLA At The Allison’s spa, your entire being will sigh a happy sigh as you sink into a steaming, pine-scented hydrotherapy tub. The plunge is among many splurge options, along with massages and even a guacamole face mask. Next, your taste buds get their turn at Jory, where brunch is an international culinary adventure, from croque madame to blueberry-glazed hush puppies to chilaquiles. The Spanish-styled shakshouka with chorizo and polenta fries is a show-stopper. As winemakers go, James Frey defies labels. Photojournalist. Healthcare executive. Entrepreneur. Acclaimed abstract painter. Now, he’s among pioneers making a name for whiskey in Oregon wine country. At his family’s Trisaetum Winery, try rieslings and pinots among painted canvases in an airy tasting room. The harder stuff hides downhill in the vineyard, in what looks like an oversized shed. Inside, under a chandelier, is the swanky speakeasy home of Brixeur Spirits, with five botanical gins and smooth whiskeys aged in pinot noir casks. Back in Newberg, grab coffee, ice cream, a book or all of the above at Chapters, an independent bookstore where—among the 88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
stacks and the amazing smells—there’s signed autobiographies from Yamhill County’s Nicholas Kristof, the Pulitzer-winning New York Times columnist and onetime gubernatorial candidate. You’ll find the handiwork of another award-winner—filmmaker Coppola—a few blocks away in a rehabbed Victorian. The legend of film noir (and other genres) makes a sexy silky pinot noir, with an equally lusty brand name, Domaine Lumineux. The Godfather director, who bought Napa mainstay Inglenook in 1975, entered the Newberg scene in 2019. Ready for a pinot break? At Rogue Valley-based Cliff Creek Cellars, enjoy a Super Tuscan and your first stamp on a passportstyle card for the local “Big Bold Red Wine Tour.” As you’d expect in Newberg, the most frequent restaurant recommendation is both unassuming, and outstanding. Rosmarino Osteria Italiana offers a rotating menu and gourmet, five-course wine pairing dinners on Fridays and Saturdays. Sunday, if you can get in, is the hugely popular gnocchi and pizza day. Reservations are a very good idea. Over dinner and tiramisu and reminiscing, you’ll likely start to feel it. (Hoover was right.) The call to return, again and again.
NEWBERG, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Bankers Cup (503) 633-2233 The Dundee Bistro www.dundeebistro.com Good Company Cheese & Wine Shop www.goodcompanycheese.com Forage www.foragecafe.com Harvester Taproom www.theharvestertaproom.com Jory www.theallison.com/jory-restaurant The Newbergundian Bistro www.newbergundian.com Rosmarino Osteria Italiana www.osteriarosmarino.com Social Goods www.socialgoodsmarket.com
STAY The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com Chehalem Ridge B&B www.chehalemridge.com Chehalem Winery Guest Houses www.chehalemwines.com/guest-houses The Dundee Hotel www.thedundee.com
PLAY ARK Animal Rescue www.arkpetrescue.com
Taste Newberg
Argyle Winery www.argylewinery.com Artist Block Winery/Alpha Bravo www.artistblockwine.com/q-hut Brick House Wine Co. www.brickhousewines.com Brixeur Spirits www.brixeur.com Champoeg State Heritage Area www.stateparks.oregon.gov Chapters www.chaptersbooksandcoffee.com Chehalem Winery www.chehalemwines.com Cliff Creek Cellars www.cliffcreek.com Domaine Lumineux www.domainelumineux.com
Cliff Creek Cellars
Taste Newberg
Domaine Willamette www.wvv.com/Domaine-Willamette
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Hoover Minthorn House Museum www.hooverminthorn.org Ken and June’s Hazelnuts www.kjhazelnuts.com Utopia Vineyard & Winery www.utopiawine.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 89
Park City and the surrounding Wasatch Range boast some of the best and most consistent snow for skiing and riding.
Skiing the City That Silver Built Park City shines with the nation’s largest alpine resort and a hopping after-slopes scene written by James Sinks
WHEN LIFE sends clouds—as Pacific Northwest winters are known to do—seek silver linings. Try looking eastward. An abundance of escapist luster awaits in the craggy, silver-laden Wasatch Back Range in Utah, and in its centerpiece nineteenth century mine town of Park City. Navigate silver (and gold) Olympic medalists’ terrain. Celebrate the silver screen. Admire local-fashioned sterling jewelry. Lunch at the Silver Star Café. And happily embrace the truism that not all that glitters need be gold. 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Visit Park City
northwest destination
Long a hunting territory of Indigenous Ute tribes, the Wasatch region of the Rocky Mountains wasn’t initially enticing to westward-bound settlers in the 1860s, especially when compared to the fast-growing religious enclave founded by Brigham Young at nearby Great Salt Lake. But then prospectors struck silver. For the following century, mines churned out precious ore and millions to sustain the Park City economy. Then in the 1960s, after a downturn tarnished the mineral industry, the largest remaining silver company diversified into the ski business, opening lifts on what was then known as Treasure Mountain. Today, the city that silver built is renowned as an easy-to-reach international ski and all-season hot spot—it’s just 35 miles from
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92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Visit Park City
the Salt Lake City airport, after a less-thantwo-hour direct flight from Portland, Eugene, Medford or Redmond. A list-topper among the nation’s best resort towns including in 2021 by Travel + Leisure, Park City touts dozens of hotels, motels and luxury lodges, plus 150 restaurants that cater to a smorgasbord of culinary tastes such as The Viking Yurt, a slopeside Norwegian restaurant where dinner guests arrive by sleigh. Year-round, visitors dive into upscale spas, fly-fishing and a geothermal-heated waterfilled crater. In cool weather, you can book a high-speed bobsled run at nearby Utah Olympic Park, part of the 2002 and upcoming 2034 games. But hands down, the biggest lure comes from the clouds, with powder routinely blanketing more than 45 miles of cross-country routes and more than 430 downhill runs. The abundant feathery snow is courtesy of a stratospheric intersection overhead where Canadian cold air careens into Pacific moisture, dumping almost 24 feet annually. How good are the conditions? The state of Utah—yes, a little biased—claims on license plates it’s the “Greatest Snow on Earth.” Also from the superlative department, the centerpiece Park City Mountain Resort is the nation’s largest ski area, with some 7,300 acres of terrain reached via forty-three different lifts including one from downtown. Next door is the 2,000-acre ski-only Deer Valley Resort. Each has summits above 9,500 feet and more than 3,000 feet of vertical drop. The alpine resorts don’t just rely on sprawling acreage to ensure ample elbow (and ski pole) room: Each sets daily limits, so it’s wise to buy tickets in advance. Three-day, fullprice adult lift passes are $855 at Park City and $870 at Deer Valley, but advance weekday rates are less. Locals are loathe to pick favorites, but intermediate-rated King Con at Park City Mountain—wide, long and with sweeping valley and city views—makes several top-ten lists. Wannabe history moguls also can ski to old mine buildings on a free, guided Silver to Slopes tour. To warm up, stretch with hot yoga at PC Yoga Collective, where drop-in classes are just $15. For a bit more silver, you can relax and recover at one of several local health
Visit Park City
northwest destination
PARK CITY, UTAH
Visit Park City
northwest destination
EAT 710 Bodega www.710bodegaparkcity.com Firewood on Main www.firewoodonmain.com Handle www.handleparkcity.com Harvest www.harvestparkcity.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Soaking, standup paddling and other variations at Homestead Crater’s hot springs inside a limestone dome. Letting rip at Park City Mountain Resort. Downtown Park City’s Egyptian Theatre, one venue where the famed Sundance Film Festival is held. Utah Olympic Park offers thrilling bobsled rides for visitors.
Ross Downard/Visit Park City
Purple Sage www.purplesageparkcity.com Silver Star Café www.thesilverstarcafe.com The Viking Yurt www.vikingyurt.com
STAY Grand Summit Hotel www.parkcitymountain.com Hotel Park City www.hotelparkcity.com Marriott’s Mountainside www.marriott.com Stein Eriksen Lodge Deer Valley www.steinlodge.com
PLAY spas, including the Forbes’ five-star-rated Spa at Stein Eriksen Lodge. Want a bucket-list watery experience? Homestead Crater is a 90-plus-degree mineral spring in a natural limestone dome where you can take a dip or stand-up paddleboard. Reservations are required. After nightfall, burrow into a coat and browse Park City’s Old West downtown district, where forty-seven mining-era buildings are listed in the National Historic Register and the modern après-ski scene includes saloons, patios and saloons with patios. For singing while drinking, there’s a standing-room dueling piano show at The Spur Bar & Grill. Find artisan small plates including a lusty beet salad at Handle; flavorful healthy fare like a “Buddha Bowl of Goodness” at Harvest; tapas and tempranillo at 710 Bodega; and steak, buffalo short rib and salmon at Purple Sage. For weekend brunch, Western-themed Silver Star Café serves up banana bread french toast and a shrimp and avocado Benedict, both of them gluten free.
Also downtown are two glass-protected Banksy spray-painted pieces, one of a cameraman holding a flower on the exterior wall of the Java Cow coffeehouse. A half block away, the circa-1926 Egyptian Theatre is a live music venue and one of several hosts for the annual international Sundance Film Festival, which has been bringing Hollywood stars and indie films to town since the early 1980s. A notoriously tough ticket, the Robert Redford-founded extravaganza runs from January 23 to February 2, and will finish its local run in 2026 before relocating in 2027. Finally, among the many galleries standing shoulder-to-shoulder on Main Street are artisans who lean into the region’s prodigious metallic heritage. At Woodbury Jewelers, owner Taylor Breeze caters to silver-seeking clientele with hand-designed pieces including snowflakes and a silhouette of Park City’s famous mountain skyline. “These mountains are made of silver ore,” he said, “and when you are out on Main Street, you are surrounded by them.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Deer Valley Resort www.deervalley.com Homestead Crater www.homesteadresort.com Park City Mountain Resort www.parkcitymountain.com Park City Museum www.parkcityhistory.org PC Yoga Collective www.pcyogacollective.com Silver to Slopes Guided Tour www.parkcitymountain.com Sundance Film Festival www.festival.sundance.org The Spur Bar & Grill www.thespurbarandgrill.com Utah Olympic Park www.utaholympiclegacy.org Woodbury Jewelers www.woodburyjewelers.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater
Cannon Beach
Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles
Joseph La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville Redmond
Sisters Florence
John Day Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass
Paisley
Medford Brookings
Jacksonville Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
16 Honey Mama’s
48 Andy Paiko
76
M. Crow
16 Fishtrap
50 SAGE Center
78
Roguetrotter tours
22 Black Tie Tours
82
Brasada Ranch
25 Yokocho Izakaya
84
Hoover-Minthorn House Museum
26 Ward Ranches
90
Park City, Utah
94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2025
Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or find one at DiscoverTheForest.org.
Until Next Time Max Test airs over a wind lip on Mount Hood. photo by Jeff Hehlen
Where ideas come to live.
Continue for Special Insert
T
here is nothing more exhilarating than putting the holidays to bed, sending home the overstays and doing something for yourself and your partner. Equal doses of gaming, spa-ing and exercise is a good way to reset the clock for the new year. Better still, if you can find that place that has all of these experiences at one casino resort.
Wildhorse Resort & Casino
Wildhorse Resort & Casino in Pendleton has game with its open high desert golf course.
A publication of Statehood Media
Cover: Wildhorse Resort & Casino
www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com
(photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)
2025 PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS
3
Seven Feathers Casino Resort
The spa at Seven Feathers Casino Resort a great way to unwind in Southern Oregon.
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS 2025
Kick back to that era with Danny Vernon’s tribute to Elvis at Tulalip Resort Casino in late January. Head down to Seven Feathers Casino Resort in Southern Oregon and book an eighty-minute couple massage at River Rock Spa. Add an herbal mud body treatment for good measure. Though there were strictly no golf scenes in Ocean’s Eleven, the modern version was filmed at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, which is paired nicely with the Tom Fazio-designed Shadow Creek Golf Course. As a theme and variation on the original Ocean’s Eleven, add seven to make your own Ocean’s Eighteen at Wildhorse Resort & Casino. Tulalip Resort Casino
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he original Ocean’s Eleven from 1960 featured Hollywood entertainers Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin, members of the widely known Rat Pack, and a young Angie Dickinson, no stranger to Las Vegas. This crew reportedly shot scenes quickly, improvising along the way just to get back to their ongoing concert gigs at The Sands Hotel and Casino. As you’re planning your getaway for your own Ocean’s Two, find the old film on Amazon Prime or Apple TV, relish in the nostalgia and fashion and recreate pieces of it on your getaway.
Tulalip Resort Casino, just north of Seattle, is a fun place for playing and finding entertaining musical acts.
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Legends Casino Hotel
FROM TOP Find yourself in a luxurious suite at Legends Casino Hotel. Get what you deserve through the many dining options at Wildhorse Resort & Casino.
What room would Beatrice Ocean take? If it was at Legends Casino Hotel in Toppenish, it would have to be the Cedar Suite. It has elegant dining for four, but she’d only want space for two; a 52-inch TV, which she could only imagine; and a soaking tub to release her stress before slipping into a luxurious robe and slippers and waiting for good news from the games below.
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS 2025
Photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino
No matter which casino you choose, recall the classic styles from designer Howard Shoup, who made every character both avant-garde and timeless. As you unwind from the holidays with plans for the new you, ask your bartender to mix up a cocktail that Cinema Sips blogger Liz Locke pairs with the heist plot—a champagne and blackberry brandy cocktail served in a stylish coupe glass.
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