Summer Brewfests
TRIP PLANNER: YACHATS PG. 94
A Calming Backyard Makeover
Oregon Rye Recipes
Cool WATER ESCAPES for summer
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Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming soon, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood. Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.
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Brad and Seth Klann inspect the first of their rye to start flowering for the 2022 season.
Putting Down Roots photography by Toby Nolan AT MECCA GRADE Estate Malt in Madras, rye is the new terroir and making a comeback in the culinary scene. Turn to Farm to Table on page 32. 4 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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A fresh stalk of rye grows in a field at Mecca Grade Estate Malt outside Madras.
66 7 Ways to Play on the Water From kayaking to houseboating, we explore the summer waters of Oregon for recreation. written by Jean Chen Smith
72 Oregon’s Oysters Served on the half shell, Oregon oysters are constantly under ecological threat. What is the future of these bivalves? written by Lee Lewis Husk
76 From the Deep An intriguing portfolio at the intersection of Japanese fish rubbing and European nature printing.
JULY | AUGUST 2022 • volume 75
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Duncan Berry
FEATURES
Take a Step and Disconnect
“Be like water” said Bruce Lee. At Salishan Coastal Lodge, we also say “Be like trees, and fresh air, and whole food.” Come experience our farm to fork dining, our eco-adventures. You’re welcome here, you and all yourselves.
salishan.com
DEPARTMENTS JULY | AUGUST 2022 • volume 75
LIVE 20 NOTEBOOK
Perseid meteor shower, stand-up’s female trailblazers and custom adventures in Hood River.
26 FOOD + DRINK
Summer brewfests, oysters at Wheeler’s Salmonberry, the best popsicles of the summer, who has the best shortcake?
32 FARM TO TABLE
Discover Klamath
Rye is back in many incarnations. The best expressions are in Oregon bourbon, beer and bread. Does it deserve its own terroir designation?
40 HOME + DESIGN
Renovating an uncool Portland Mid-century modern home bit by bit.
Kevin McConnell for Quintana Galleries; BELOW Lindsey Rickert Photography
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50 MIND + BODY
Portland State University running phenom, Katherine Camarena takes it to the highest collegiate levels. Can she get to the next level?
52 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Greg Robinson brings new form to Chinookan art.
THINK 58 STARTUP
52
Portland-based Biomotum puts people back on their feet with innovative robotic exoskeletons.
60 WHAT’S GOING UP
New collegiate capital investment brings us a Reser Stadium renovation and, of course, the new Hayward Field.
62 MY WORKSPACE
A man who traveled the world to come back and make a life as a newspaperman in small-town Condon.
Tambi Lane
64 GAME CHANGER
38
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Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
Cindy Chauran and Deana Freres step up after a devastating fire with a relief fund for neighbors who lost their homes.
EXPLORE 86 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
The Thomas Condon Paleontology Center in Condon has good bones and a long history.
88 ADVENTURE
Stand-up paddleboarding in remote or secluded waters. The best.
92 LODGING
Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa in Astoria blends Finnish history, a Scandinavian esthetic and sweeping views of the Columbia.
94 TRIP PLANNER
Put coastal Yachats on your own trip planner this summer and ditch the crowds and heat.
COVER
photo by Berty and Emily Mandagie (TheMandagies.com) Heceta Head Lighthouse (see Trip Planner, pg. 94)
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100 NW DESTINATION
Redmond, BC, is a glimpse into life in the Far East. Chinese culture abounds and the Dumpling Trail is worth the hike.
CONTRIBUTORS
TOBY NOLAN Photographer Farm to Table
JULIE LEE Writer Farm to Table
JENNA LECHNER Illustrator Home + Design DIY
JONATHAN SHIPLEY Writer What’s Going Up
“Spending time with people who are passionate is always a privilege. Seth and Brad of Mecca Grade Malt are perfect examples, dedicated to the land they farm, the grains they grow, and maintaining their families lineage and history in the Madras area. From walking fields of fresh rye to getting covered in dust as barley entered the malter, this shoot was all fun, especially the beer in the tasting room at the end.” (pg. 32)
“A common current between farm owner Seth Klann, badass brewer Whitney Burnside and myself is a fervent devotion to our crafts. Klann passionately grows rye, Burnside brews seed into solid gold, and I thirstily drink her creation (which she brewed specifically for this issue of Farm to Table) down at Portland’s 10 Barrel Brewing Company. I pinch myself that as a writer, I get to connect with the ‘cool kids’ like them.” (pg. 32)
“We have a lot of books in our house, and a big chunk of our bookshelf is dedicated to vintage craft books. I worked in arts and crafts stores for years before becoming an illustrator, and I’m always dabbling in a new skill. (Lately it’s been basket making and training my blind dog.) Needless to say, I love a good DIY! Especially one with history behind it, like the cornhole DIY that I illustrated for this issue.” (pg. 46)
“I nearly went to Oregon State University. I ultimately ended up at Washington State University. The highlight of my time at WSU (NERD ALERT) was being in the marching band. Playing my trombone in front of thousands of fans during a halftime show was a thrill. Perhaps it’ll be that way for OSU band members when the new stadium opens. I believe there will be much fanfare when it does.” (pg. 60)
Toby Nolan is a commercial and editorial photographer. Originally from Dublin, Ireland, he now lives in Sisters and enjoys working throughout Central Oregon and around the world.
Julie Lee has been a freelance contributor for 1859 on and off (mostly on) since 2011. She spends most of her spare time convincing her husband that their English Bulldog, Walter, isn’t as naughty as he is.
Jenna Lechner is a freelance illustrator based out of Portland. Her whimsical ink and watercolor illustrations have appeared on stationery, wallpaper, packaging and more. You can see more of her work on Instagram @jennamlechner.
Jonathan Shipley is a freelance writer whose recent work has appeared on the BBC, Discovery Magazine and Earth Island Journal.
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EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Lee Lewis Husk, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Justin Bailie, F. David Green, Elijah Hoffman, Jim Kinghorn, Tambi Lane, Berty and Emily Mandagie, Toby Nolan, Daniel O’Neil
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Jenna Lechner
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
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FROM THE
EDITOR
I REMEMBER the first time I surfed. It was on the Oregon Coast in May more than a decade ago. The water was cold, and we all wore neoprene wetsuits 5 millimeters thick and neoprene booties. I had one lesson and then launched into the Pacific Ocean. It was an overcast day, but you could see for miles out to sea. As a surfer, I fared no better than anyone else with one lesson and mediocre balance. Even so, each wave was a new opportunity and a natural force beneath me that I hadn’t felt before. Though I only used the closest hundred meters of coastal waters that day, I felt like I had opened countless nautical miles for exploration forever. The beach was no longer a boundary. I could go beyond with a surfboard and look back at the land-lubbers with pity as I bobbed in the waves, looking for the next breaker that would whisk me to my wobbly feet for a second before enveloping me in its salt again. The Coast Issue, I hope, will inspire you to open new doors and expand your own boundaries. Start with our feature Seven Ways to Play on the Water on page 66. You’ll find ideas that include kayaking, canoeing, SUPing, fishing and swimming. Or turn to this issue’s Trip Planner (page 94) as we ply the shores of the southern Oregon Coast at Yachats. Here you can get away from
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life’s stresses and hop on the Trail of Restless Waters as it winds down to the turbulent and spectacular Devil’s Churn blowhole. Among other places in our Adventure piece Secluded SUPing (pg. 88) is the Siltcoos River Canoe Trail, which leads through sand dunes and estuary and to the Pacific and extends your boundaries. One more treasure from the Oregon Coast is its bounty. Oysters have long been farmed in the Coos, Tillamook, Netarts and Yaquina bays along the coast. In the age of warning oceans and acidification of our seas, we check in on this industry that brings the brine of the Pacific Ocean to our lips no matter where you are in the state. Turn to Oregon’s Oysters on page 72. Back from near extinction is the art of Chinookan people. Our Artist in Residence (pg. 52) turns its eye to the renown work of Greg Robinson, a member of the Chinook Indian Nation and sculptor and carver. You can see his work on either side of Portland’s Tilikum Bridge and at the Portland Art Museum, as well. This issue also brings together elements of a perfect Oregon summer day. Get yourself a boozy Sloshy Pop (pg. 28), crank up Lindsay Clark’s new ethereal album Carpe Noctem (pg. 22) and play a tournament of cornhole on your new DIY set (pg. 46). Cheers!
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by Adam Banz I have always had a fascination with birds of prey. The bald eagle has always been one of my favorites. I have photographed a couple in the wild, but as a sign of respect, I try to keep my distance. On a recent trip to the Oregon Zoo, I stopped by Eagle Canyon to take some photos. This fella hopped up onto the ledge right in front of me and was kind enough to pose for me.
SHOP LOCAL Stock up for summer adventures at our curated online shop of cool goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find outdoor gear, leather goods, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregon magazine.com/shop
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TURE N E V AD AIL M SIGN UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER More Oregon, delivered to your inbox! Sign up for 1859’s Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest trip ideas, contests, recipes and more. www.1859oregonmagazine. com/live/subscribe-tooregon-adventure-mail
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NOTEBOOK 20 FOOD + DRINK 26 FARM TO TABLE 32 HOME + DESIGN 40 MIND + BODY 50
pg. 40 A Southwest Portland Mid-century Modern makeover also updates a pool.
Elijah Hoffman
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 52
In-Person + Virtual Creative Event Oct 14, 2022, Tower Theatre BendDesign.org
Speakers, Films, Creativity & Conversation for Designers, Changemakers and the Curious.
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
George Barberis
written by Cathy Carroll
Sun Styles Family-owned, performance hat-maker Sunday Afternoons based in Talent has launched its VaporLite Collection—the brand’s lightest technical running hats—offering sun protection, a crushable, packable design, trademarked “sunglasses lock” to keep shades in place and are ponytail-friendly and made with recycled materials. When you’re back from a run and off on casual adventures around town, don the Valencia hat made with raffia, for stylish cool protection from harsh rays.
Tributary Hotel and ōkta A 100-year-old building in downtown McMinnville has just become the Tributary Hotel, with eight suites designed to feel like guest quarters of a home. Every morning, a seasonal breakfast arrives at your room from ōkta, the property’s restaurant led by chef and partner Matthew Lightner, formerly of two-star Michelin Atera in New York City. The evening progressive tasting menu draws inspiration from the valley’s micro-seasons and harvest from the restaurant’s nearby farm. www.tributaryhotel.com
www.sundayafternoons.com
Fun in Hood River
Nate Johnson
Indulging in the best of Hood River, from riding premier singletrack to savoring local artisan fare, is the aim of Northwest Excursions’ three-day adventures designed around the area’s best experiences from sun-up to sundown. Northwest Excursion hosts exclusive activities such as a pFriem Family Brewery Tour and SUP yoga. They can customize each day around your preferences, too. Want to go rafting instead of a second day of mountain biking? This crew can make it happen.
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www.nw-excursions.com
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CALark you END r AR
Perseid Meteor Shower
Turell Group/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
When our planet passes through the path of Comet Swift-Tuttle this year, plan to see the peak performance on August 12. Scores of celestial particles will be streaming through the sky at 37 miles per second. Take it in while hiking in the Cascades or canoeing on an alpine lake. Wanderlust Tours offers both on their Sun, Meteor, & Moon Canoe tours. Take in the setting sun to the west, the meteor shower to the north, and the rising August supermoon to the east.
Bike, Hike, Drink, Eat, Sleep, Repeat
www.wanderlusttours.com/ special-events
Mountain biking, kayaking, hiking and overnighting in the Willamette National Forest just got easier and cozier. Westfir Lodge & Mountain Market is an ideal base, steps from Oakridge’s stellar Alpine Trail and the North Fork River. The nine-room lodge’s market rewards with house-made pierogi, deli sandwiches, beer, drinks and essentials, while Cascades Outdoor Center’s guides and shuttles make the mountain adventures fun and memorable. www.westfirlodge.com
Fairsing Vineyard
Wine Buzz Salem-based LIVE, which certifies the sustainable practices of winegrowers in the Pacific Northwest, has teamed up with Pollinator Partnership of San Francisco to boost awareness of the importance of bees and help create environments where they can thrive. Willamette Valley wine country is ideal for bee populations and many LIVEcertified wineries are creating homes for bees on their estates, including Fairsing Vineyard of Yamhill, which sows crimson clover throughout its 170 acres to attract and nurture pollinators. www.fairsingvineyard.com
JULY | AUGUST 2022
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Musician
A Natural Wonder Portland singer-songwriter Lindsay Clark’s new album brings the outside in written by Ben Salmon THE NATURAL WORLD is more than just a recurring lyrical theme on Lindsay Clark’s new album Carpe Noctem. It permeates her work. It’s woven into the fabric of the record. It’s deeply embedded in the DNA of these eleven songs, which include “Evening Star” and “Roses in the Sky” and “Tropical Birds” and “Waves.” And that’s just the song titles—there’s much more in the lyrics. “I definitely grew up in the country,” said Clark, a singersongwriter who was raised in Nevada City, California, and has called Portland home since 2009. “My dad did forestry work and trail building and things like that and my mom was really interested in botany. So we were outside a lot. There’s something about (being in nature) that helps me understand things in a different way. Whenever I’m having a hard day or whatever, I tend to try to get out of the city and just be in a quiet space. I think maybe I do a lot of emotional processing when I’m outside somewhere, and that filters into my songs.” As a child, Clark played piano and violin, and she studied classical music. As she got older, however, she took an interest in her parents’ record collection, where she was drawn to the sound of the acoustic guitar, beautiful melodies, vocal harmonies and folk music, which led her to artists like Joni Mitchell, the Beach Boys, Simon & Garfunkel, and Peter, Paul and Mary.
Enter the natural world through Lindsay Clark’s perspective with her new Carpe Noctem. (photo: Myles Katherine)
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“I was always trying to find music that I really resonated with,” she said. “I always liked to create music and poetry when I was young, but it wasn’t until later that I started seeing people my age who were making music and writing their own songs. I thought, ‘I could probably do that.’” She was right. The songs on Carpe Noctem are delicate and gorgeous, with sparse instrumental arrangements that leave plenty of space for Clark’s vocals to flutter and glow. On the acoustic guitar, she is a skilled fingerpicker with a gift for making gentle, repeated licks feel dramatic and dynamic. At times, she sounds like comforting Kentucky singer-songwriter Joan Shelley and percussive Swedish guitar wizard José González colliding among the well-worn pages of a book filled with old English folk songs. Clark recorded her new album at the Panoramic House in the Bay Area of California, a studio built from reclaimed materials that sits in the shadow of Mt. Tamalpais, overlooks the Pacific Ocean and, in 2020 and 2021, provided plenty of Clark’s favorite kind of inspiration. “There’s so much mythology and folklore connected to nature, and so much history of humans interacting with the natural world,” she said. “As a songwriter, I just find it to be a really rich place from which to draw.”
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FOODIE
ADVENTURER
FAMILY
FISHING
BEACHES AND LANDMARKS
HIKING
Shannon Brazil
notebook
Bibliophile
Author Shawn Levy’s latest book looks backstage into lives of great female comedians.
Comedy’s No Joke Shawn Levy’s In On the Joke is a hilarious and moving account of stand-up’s lady trailblazers interview by Cathy Carroll
PORTLAND’S SHAWN LEVY has written about film, pop culture, books and sports for The New York Times, the Los Angeles Times and many other major news organizations. He’s written eleven books, including bestsellers Rat Pack Confidential, Paul Newman: A Life and King of Comedy: The Life and Art of Jerry Lewis. We asked him about his latest book, In On the Joke: The Original Queens of Stand-up Comedy, which The New York Times Book Review called “a sensitive and vivid study of early female stand-ups … [Levy is a] painstaking, knowledgeable guide.” 24
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Who are your favorite fearless trailblazers from the book? They are all heroes, indisputably, but Moms Mabley, born in the 1890s to a family that included former slaves, would have to rank highest. She came from nowhere and nothing and enjoyed a fifty-plus-year career that was actually on the rise when she died in the mid-1970s. I also have to mention Phyllis Diller, who was a 37-year-old mother of five trying to earn rent money when she first told jokes to an audience in 1955 and who went on to become one of the most successful names in comedy history—while raising that family and, very often, keeping house. No man in the world of stand-up comedy could imagine doing for a week what these women had to do for their entire careers. What is one of your favorite long-lost one-liners in the book? These women were so witty in their bones that a great many of their utterances made me laugh, even when I knew they were comedy bits and not ad libbed inspirations. Elaine May’s caustic responses to catcallers as a young performer in Chicago; Phyllis Diller’s vicious and hilarious descriptions of her husband, both in reality and in the persona she invented for him, Fang; Joan Rivers joking about giving birth and even about her husband’s suicide: gold, all of it. But top marks to Totie Fields, who made a career out of mocking her own oversized body and then suffered the trauma of having a leg amputated after a botched surgery; when she finally returned
to the stage, she walked up to the mic to a standing ovation and opened with the joke of a lifetime: “I finally weigh less than Elizabeth Taylor!” Did you have any “aha” moments in researching this book? Even though I wasn’t surprisedsurprised by it, knowing what the world was (and is) like, it was still stunning to see how blatantly these remarkable women were discounted or diminished by the press and the world-at-large, even in their primes. The first New York Times review of Joan Rivers, right after she made a national sensation on “The Tonight Show,” … obvious talents as Joan, or Phyllis Diller or Moms Mabley or Elaine May and, again and again, you see them underestimated or outright insulted by men or in comparison to men. I guess the “aha” of that was seeing the exhausting consistency of the worst impulses in our culture being wielded against women I came to respect and admire. Have you ever done stand-up or would you attempt it after writing this book? Hell. No. I don’t know of a harder branch of art/entertainment. You have to be constantly funny—no lulls at all. You have to gauge the crowd and ride it like a surfer on an unpredictable ocean. You have to be able not only to endure heckling but to parry and one-up it. And you have to do it all yourself—no teammates or fellow players to pass the ball to if you’re not on your game. Anyone who tries stand-up has steel guts and thick skin.
Discover, Learn & P l a y
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Track & Field Champs of the Animal Kingdom
Exhibit on view June 9 through December 31 Hightail it to the museum for a track & field competition like no other. 1680 East 15th Avenue, Eugene, OR One block from Hayward Field 541-346-3024 mnch.uoregon.edu
At the Sustainable Agriculture and Energy Center, Center our mission is hands-on learning and education through fun and interactive multi-media exhibits. Watch a potato turn into curly fries. Try your hand at milking a cow or driving a tractor. Browse our gift shop and finish your visit with a serving of delicious Tillamook ice cream!
1ST SATURDAY IN OCTOBER Local ndo & proc Wg des Pukin ainti Live music & ore! Scan the QR code or call 541.481.7243 for information.
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Oregon Brewers Festival is back this July, as are other notable Oregon craft beer celebrations.
Beerlandia
Celebrate Summer written by Beau Eastes
THE VERY LAST of the Jubelale has been cleared out of the fridge, you’ve tried every funky spring collaboration from your local breweries, and you’ve started experimenting with new lawnmower beers. Yes, thank Larry Sidor, it’s summer. Here’s what we’re most looking forward to at Beerlandia as the days get longer and we slip out of our flannels into short-sleeved flannels.
THE RETURN OF BREWFESTS: The Portland Craft Beer Festival (July 1-3), Oregon Brewers Festival in Portland (July 28-20), Little Woody Barrel-Aged Beer, Cider & Whisky Festival in Bend (Sept. 2-3), and Sisters Fresh Hop Festival (Sept. 24), all return this year in almost original fashion. There are even a few new festivals that have popped up since we last drank 4-ounce samples in mini-plastic beer steins together. The inaugural Baker’s Dozen Coffee Beer & Donut Fest at Silver Moon Brewing in Bend took place May 21—hello, breakfast beers!—as did Fort George’s Lupin Ecstasy festival, a celebration of collaborators past and present who have participated in the
Astoria brewery’s 3-Way IPA series. Get both of them on your calendar for next year. PIZZA + BEER AT ASSEMBLY BREWING: Great vibes, fantastic beer, top-notch pinball and the best Detroit-style pizza we’ve had in Oregon, yeah, we’ll be returning to Portland’s Assembly Brewing, the state’s only Black-owned brewery. Owner George Johnson celebrated Assembly’s third anniversary in March with the brewery’s 3 Times Anniversary, a nod to the fact that they were closed down because of the pandemic during their first two anniversaries so this third time must be a charm. The anniversary beer, which features three malts and three
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Collin Nicholas, Owner, Pink Rabbit, Fools and Horses / PORTLAND
Moon Rabbit 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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• • • • •
11/2 ounce of Roku gin 3/4 ounce Momokawa Junmai Sake 3/4 ounce combier watermelon 1/2 ounce light agave nectar 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice
Combine and shake over ice, then fine strain into a Collins glass and top with 2 ounces of soda water. Garnish with a makrut lime leaf.
HEATER ALLEN’S RE-OPENED TAPROOM: A McMinnville gem that’s home to some of the best locally produced lagers in the entire Pacific Northwest, Heater Allen re-opened its taproom in May to celebrate its fifteenth anniversary. The brewery, which the same month won gold for its Pils at the prestigious 2022 World Beer Cup in Minneapolis in the Kellerbier or Zwickelbier category, is open Fridays and Saturdays throughout the summer. Come for the award-winning Pils, stay for the Das Bier, our favorite Kölsch outside of Cologne. WILD RIDE BREWING’S PRINEVILLE LOCATION: Wild Ride Brewing, the crew that rejuvenated Redmond’s brewing scene opened up a second brewery and pub in Prineville in May and we’re already counting down the days we can head east for a ride in the Ochocos and enjoy a patio beer or two at its new location. Wild Ride’s Prineville operation has its own brewing system, giving the newer brewhouse an opportunity to brew beers only available in Crook County. Wild Ride has perfected the brewery and food cart relationship as well as anyone in Central Oregon, and Prineville feels ripe for a classic indoor-outdoor space similar to Wild Ride’s Redmond pub.
Wild Ride Brewing
Timothy Horn/Oregon Brewers Festival
hops, pairs pretty damn well with any of Assembly’s thick pizzas crafted with housemade “what up dough.”
Wild Ride Brewing’s new brewery in Prineville pairs nicely with a ride in the Ochocos.
Oregon Wine Experience is back and will take place near Jacksonville in August.
Gastronomy
Oregon Wine Experience written by Kerry Newberry AFTER A TWO YEAR pause, many of the state’s top charity wine and culinary events are returning in 2022. The season kicks-off in August with Oregon Wine Experience, a five-day celebration from August 17-21, that will be held for the first time at Stage Pass, a wine country community near the historic town of Jacksonville. The festivities bring together more than 100 wineries including Irvine & Roberts Vineyards, Del Rio Vineyards & Winery, DANCIN Vineyards, Archery Summit, Stoller Family Estate and Silvan Ridge Winery. Highlights for the week include a founders’ barrel auction with exclusive cuvées and a traditional open-pit salmon bake led by the Coquille Indian Tribe. To enhance the experience, dozens of collaborative vintner dinners lead up to the main event and, in July, the Oregon Wine Competition brings seven worldrenowned wine experts to Oregon (award-winning wines will be announced in August). A few of the star judges this year include Eric Hemer, one of only four people in the world to hold both the Master of Wine and Master Sommelier qualification and Virginia Philip, the eleventh woman in the world to earn the Master Sommelier accreditation. Other popular programs include Oregon Wine University, a series of engaging classes and panels that range from a wine and cheese tasting with Tom Van Voorhees of Rogue Creamery, one of the only certified Frommagiers in Oregon, to a Riedel Glassware Tasting Class in August. Since its inception, Oregon Wine Experience has raised more than $8.2 million, benefiting the Asante Children’s Miracle Network program and other health care programs at Asante. All of the event’s proceeds benefit charity every year. For a full schedule of this year’s events and vintner dinners, go to www.theoregonwineexperience.com. 28
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CRAVINGS: POPSICLES KULFI PDX Cool down with kulfi, a popular frozen dessert in India that’s made from slow-boiled milk and sugar, then mixed with ingredients like cardamom, saffron or rose petals. Founders Kiran Cheema and Gagan Aulakh launched their kulfi pop-up in 2019, serving frozen custard-like treats out of a bike cart. In April, they put down roots with Kulfi PDX, where you can pick from signature flavors such as the popular mango lassi and fun collaborations—a recent one with Mama Dut Foods is a refreshing, zippy jackfruit coconut lime. 5009 NE 15TH AVE. PORTLAND www.kulfipdx.com
ICE QUEEN PDX When Rebecca Smith launched Ice Queen PDX, the first vegan paleteria in the U.S., she quickly gained a devoted following for her imaginative frozen treats. The greatest hits include Oatchata, a creamy oat milk-based bar with classic Mexican horchata spices, and Partners N’ Cream, a soy milk pop packed with crunchy whole cookies. Balmy nights—(hello, summer)—call for the Mangonada, juicy ripe mango mixed with chamoy and a pop of chile, or the piña colada, a tropical sensation. 1140 SE 11TH AVE., SUITE 110 PORTLAND www.icequeenyouscream.com
SLOSHY POPS Plan your summer bash around Sloshy Pops, gourmet boozy ice pops made with local fruit and premium spirits with juicy flavors like Raspberry Sangria, Strawberry Margarita and Pineapple Lemongrass Cooler. You can have a party package (twelve or twenty-four pops) delivered to your doorstep, or go all out and rent a vintage-inspired popsicle push-cart by the hour. For a single-serving pop, stop by Lardo Sandwiches’ west location, The 19th Hole (Hotel Deluxe), The Aerie at Eagle Landing, Hood River Common House or Hotel Lucia. Non-alcoholic pops are available, too. OREGON www.sloshypops.com
Photo: Lindsey Rickert
Steven Addington Photography
food + drink
ge t-a-g o o d
c l im b-in-
The Rooftop at SCP Redmond
AND RELAX! After a long day, grab a drink and a bite to eat in Redmond, The Hub of good times and unexpected finds in Central Oregon.
$ EVENTS CALENDAR, RESERVATIONS & WINE SHOP AT SILVANRIDGE.COM
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BEST PLACES FOR
SUMMER BERRY SHORTCAKE Get a taste of nostalgia all summer long at the state’s oldest Strawberry Shortcake Stand. E.Z Orchards, a fourth-generation family farm, has been serving strawberry shortcake since 1995. Expect a mound of peak-season berries, a heaping scoop of ice cream and fresh whipped cream. No need to fret when strawberry season wraps up, the golden buttery shortcake is equally delicious with marionberries, raspberries, blueberries and peaches. 5504 HAZELGREEN RD NE SALEM www.ezorchards.com
Photos: The Salmonberry
E.Z. ORCHARDS
Dining
Increasingly the Oregon Coast is taking its food more serious by embracing farms and fisheries. The Salmonberry overlooking the Nehalem River is part of this movement.
The Salmonberry
MIO’S DELECTABLES For an exquisite Japanese-style shortcake, plan your weekend around a visit to the Saturday Farmers Market on the Portland State University campus, where baker extraordinaire Mio Asaka has a jewel box display of shortcakes on display. Instead of biscuits, Japanese strawberry shortcake is made of layers of fluffy sponge cake, with fresh strawberry slices, whipped cream filling and whipped cream frosting. There’s often a line for her elegant and ethereal cakes, but it’s always worth the wait.
written by Kerry Newberry
After a day of waterfall and wildflower hikes in the Columbia River Gorge, cruise the idyllic Hood River County Fruit Loop to Packard Orchards. The fourth-generation family farm has an onsite bakery that dishes up classic strawberry shortcakes, strawberry donuts and strawberry rhubarb pie that’s packed with sweet and tart flavors. You’ll also find other peak-season berries layered into pies all summer.
HIDDEN BEHIND ornate gold doors in the tiny coastal town of Wheeler, there’s a simple patio with spectacular views overlooking the Nehalem River. On summer days, Titian-like clouds hover over pockets of evergreens and cascading mountains. Eagles and herons often glide by, along with colorful kayaks from the adjacent Wheeler Marina. The most exciting discovery is that the dishes are as delightful as the view. Once you scan the chalkboard menu at The Salmonberry—where The Salmonberry lists all the local farms, foragers and fishers supplying wild-harvested and seasonal ingredients—it’s apparent there’s an exciting culinary renaissance rippling across the seaside community. Starters range from brisk and briny Netarts oysters served with an umami dulse and aleppo mignonette to perfectly chewy Wolfmoon sourdough that you can lather with local honey and fresh chevre from Fraga Farmstead. Once you’ve tasted this wild-fermented sourdough, you’ll want more, so note that the bakery is located one town over in Nehalem. You can pre-order and join locals picking up loaves from the bakery porch, paper-wrapped with hand-written names. For the table, split a salad of seasonal greens hailing from the nearby Moon River Farm along with a wood-fired pizza—standouts include the wild mushroom pie with goat feta and a bright house pomodoro and the peppery Italian sausage with fennel and purple broccolini. Say yes to a side order of the pizza sauce, especially Ocean Goddess, a tangy house buttermilk dressing with fresh herbs and dulse. One of the newer additions to the menu is a daily selection of housemade pastas which are served in beautiful ceramic bowls made by local potter Tara Spires-Bell, who is also the sous-chef. The earthy agnolotti with morels and nettles was a table favorite, but the winning dish was a classic bucatini heaped with clams in a white wine sauce.
3900 OR-35 HOOD RIVER www.packerorchards.com
380 MARINE DRIVE WHEELER www.thesalmonberry.fun
PORTLAND STATE UNIVERSITY (Saturday Farmers Market, in the South Park Blocks) PORTLAND www.miosdelectables.com
PACKER ORCHARDS AND BAKERY
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Mount Angel Oktoberfest Together is the Best Place to Be September 15-18, 2022
Mount Angel Oktoberfest is grateful to our sponsors:
Bark Boys
www.oktoberfest.org Mount Angel, Oregon
farm to table
ABOVE The three stages of rye: unmalted rye (left), fresh flowering rye (center) and malted rye (right).
Farm to Table
The Thresher in the Rye Once derided as worthless, rye is making a comeback in bread, bourbon and beer written by Julie Lee photography by Toby Nolan ONCE CONSIDERED a weed amongst fields and often hailed as an underdog, rye is viewed by some as the world’s most underrated grain, though countries like Russia have long adopted it as a staple, using it in breads and other recipes. The carb-laden grain is also used to make whiskey, bourbon, and beer, and can be incorporated in vodka and gin as well. Farmer and brewer Seth Klann of Brad Klann Farms near Madras, is considered an authority in the field of rye and other grains among his peers. “Seth is one of those special generational family farmers who has upheld traditional methods and expanded to his own unique malting techniques.” said Clark McCool, general manager of production at McMenamins, Inc. Klann’s family’s farm has specialized in grain and diversified seed production since 1905 and is home to Mecca Grade Estate Malt, where it is sold at their malthouse as well as to breweries in Oregon and California, including many Bendbirthed favorites such as Crux Fermentation Project. It starts from scratch with Klann. He grows his own base ingredients rather than sourcing elsewhere. “Just like an estate vineyard might specialize in growing a single varietal of wine grape, we’re committed to working with single varieties of grain for malting. Virtually all commercial malt (derives from numerous) varieties originating from several different growing regions, which are blended and delivered to large 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Brad and Seth Klann, of Mecca Grade Estate Malt, stand in their rye field with their malthouse in the background.
farm to table
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farm to table
Fresh barley enters the malter where it is raked, forming patterns, then sprayed with water before continuing its journey through the malting process.
factory malthouses via bulk transport,” Klann said. “We source 100 percent of our grain from our own farm. I believe this is the definition of what ‘estate’ should be. Most of our grains are heirloom varieties that are more challenging to grow and malt but pack a tremendous amount of flavor when compared to more mainstream malt.” Klann’s personal mission is to prove that terroir in grain is real, important and flavorful. There is a catch—the only way to truly taste terroir in beer or whiskey is to eliminate as many variables as possible and any source of blending, whether that is vintage, variety, farm location or otherwise. Their estate-grown, singlesource, malting grain is raised within a 2-mile radius of the malthouse, providing uniformity across fields, including nearidentical yields, soil types, irrigation rates and climate. “As malt farmers, our goal is to produce the exact same high-quality crop 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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year after year and have the technology to make each batch identical,” he said. Growing, rather than sourcing, provides extra challenges in years where a pandemic suddenly upends the restaurant industry and fluctuating weather conditions include a drought. “When Covid hit, overnight our production dropped to 0% because most of our estate malt supplies small breweries and pubs, all of which were being shuttered,” said Klann. “This challenge was further compounded with the historic drought that’s afflicted much of the West.” High Desert farmers are completely dependent on irrigation to produce world-class grains and water is critical to the production of rye—from planting in March until harvest in August, a healthy rye crop needs 20 inches of precipitation to produce an excellent quality grain for malt production, and in recent years,
farm to table
“We source 100 percent of our grain from our own farm. I believe this is the definition of what ‘estate’ should be. Most of our grains are heirloom varieties that are more challenging to grow and malt but pack a tremendous amount of flavor when compared to more mainstream malt.”
Klann’s farm received a mere one to two inches of precipitation, mostly attributed to snowfall. Even though water allotment is 40% of what is needed to grow crops on the 1000-acre farm, Klann is still able to supply all the necessary grain for the estate malthouse. “As far as we know,” said Klann, “we are one of the only places in the world that is farming, malting, and brewing all on site. Visitors can taste the beer, get a tour of the malting process, and enjoy the awesome High Desert landscape all in one place. The thought is to scale the brewery organically to meet consumer demand.” Whitney Burnside, head brewer at 10 Barrel Brewing, likes to use rye in her creations, and recently brewed “Rye’d Together,” a Rye West Coast IPA. Showcasing some of the best ingredients from the Pacific Northwest, the pale malt is accompanied by a bundle of white wheat and a touch of malted rye, giving the beer a clean, crisp base with a balanced yet earthy complexity. One of the most celebrated uses of rye in Oregon is the reuben sandwich at Portland’s Goose Hollow Inn, originally put on the menu by former mayor Bud Clark. The family business has trickled down generations, and current owner and daughter, Rachel Clark, who became a vegetarian, yearned for an option to the classic reuben, melding flavors of thick Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and reuben sauce, but without being chock full of corned beef brisket. She created one, using vegetables she sourced from her family’s restaurant kitchen: mushrooms, onions, and fresh tomato slices. “Since our invention thirty-three years ago,” said Clark, “we’ve gained quite a following for our Rachel’s Reuben, along with our classic corned beef reuben and turkey reuben, and we have heard no convincing reasons for changing what has been one of our best-selling sandwiches.”
10 Barrel Brewing Co.
— Seth Klann, farmer, brewer and co-owner of Mecca Grade Estate Malt
FROM TOP Seth Klann loads fresh barley into the malter inside Mecca Grade’s malting facility adjacent to the tasting room. Seth Klann serves his father, Brad, one of their on-site brewed beers inside their taproom. Whitney Burnside, head brewer at 10 Barrel Brewing PDX, works her craft; $1 from each sale of the specially brewed Rye’d Together goes to the World Food Programme, a food-assistance branch of the United Nations and the world’s largest humanitarian organization focused on hunger and food security.
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farm to table
Owner Rachel Clark of Goose Hollow Inn, known for the “best Reuben on the planet” serves her namesake Reuben with a delicious twist.
Billy Rye Whiskey Boulevardier + Manhattan McMenamins / PORTLAND Clark McCool SERVES 1 BOULEVARDIER • 1 ounce Billy Rye Whiskey • 1 ounce Edgefield Sweet Vermouth • 1 ounce Campari In a mixing tin, combine whiskey, sweet vermouth and Campari. Add ice, stir and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with an orange peel. MANHATTAN • 2 ounces Billy Rye Whiskey • ½ ounce Edgefield Sweet Vermouth • 3 shakes Angostura Aromatic Bitters In a stirring vessel, combine whiskey, sweet vermouth and bitters. Stir with ice for 30 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry at the bottom of a cocktail glass.
Oregon Recipes
A Rye Sense of Baking Rachel’s Reuben
Goose Hollow Inn / PORTLAND Rachel Clark SERVES 1 • 2 slices of dark rye bread • 3 ounces (to taste) of Russian or Thousand Island dressing • 2 slices of thick Swiss Cheese • 4 ounces of sauerkraut (squeeze off the liquid to avoid soggy bread)
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• ¼ cup sliced mushrooms (can be more; they will cook down) • Several slices of red onion • 2 slices of tomato • 1/8 teaspoon of granulated garlic Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place bread slices open face on a cookie sheet. Generously spread the dressing on both slices of bread. On the first slice, spread sauerkraut on one slice over
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the dressing. Place Swiss cheese slices over the sauerkraut. On the second slice of bread, spread out the mushrooms, then top the mushrooms with the red onion. Sprinkle the mushroom and onion slice with garlic. Bake both sides of bread until the cheese is fully melted, even a little bubbly. Top the veggie side with tomato. Combine slices into a sandwich, let it rest for a minute, then slice in half and enjoy!
McMenamins Billy Rye Whiskey Boulevardier and Manhattan.
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
The Seven Seas of Rye
Note: This recipe will take 4-5 days to complete—totally worth it!
written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane “I FOUND a field of rye growing next to the Knott landfill!” my friend Hubert yelled into his cell phone with excitement. He continued talking with his thick German accent. “I am harvesting it now and will be over shortly.” A retired geophysicist and university professor, Hubert looks more like a mash up between Brian May, the guitarist of the rock band Queen, and jolly old St. Nick. Hubert, who rides his bicycle everywhere arrived at my house and quickly unpacked the harvested rye berries along with a bag of dirt. We ground the grains into a small bag of flour to be used for a sourdough starter and, due the location of where he found the rye, we packaged the dirt to be analyzed by Oregon State University. Second to wheat, rye is my grain of choice when baking bread. Often referred to as “wheat’s crazy second cousin,” rye has gained recent popularity due to its lower gluten content. Rye hasn’t always been popular. Historically, rye was considered a weed and was used by Romans as a cover crop during winter months. Even the naturalist Pliny the Elder scoffed at using the grain for food, writing that it “is a very poor food and only serves to avert starvation.” Through the years, Europeans refined both the farming and the use of rye in foods and alcohol. When the dirt sample results came back as “organic,” we harvested more and proceeded to experiment with different recipes. The result was a sourdough rye bread that is well worth the effort. 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
I Can’t Believe It’s Knott Rye Bread
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PRE-DOUGH • 4 tbsp Sourdough Starter (recipe below) • 21/2 cups Rye Flour • 11/2 cups Water • 11/2 tsp Salt BREAD DOUGH • 100% of the pre-dough from above, made the day before • 3 cups Rye Flour • 5½ oz Boiling Water • 1½ tbsp Honey • 1½ tsp Salt MAKING THE SOURDOUGH STARTER Use a 1-quart-sized container with enough room for the starter to triple in volume. 1. Day 1: Mix 2 ounces of dark rye flour with 60 g of lukewarm, filtered water and set aside at 75°F for 24 hours. 2. Day 2: Add 2 ounces of lukewarm, filtered water and 2 ounces of dark rye flour, mix and set aside at 75°F for about 18 hours. 3. Day 3: Add 4 ounces of dark rye flour and 4 ounces of lukewarm, filtered water, mix and set aside in 75°F for about 18 hours. 4. Day 4: Use for a sourdough or store in an airtight jar in the fridge. The starter needs to be fed on a regular basis. Every 10 to 12 days you take it out of the fridge and feed it: 1. Pour 3 ounces of warm water into a bowl. 2. Add about ½ ounce of your starter to the water and mix. 3. Add 3 ounces of flour to the bowl. 4. Cover the bowl and let stand at 75°F for 24 hours. 5. Put back into the jar and store in the fridge.
MAKING THE PRE-DOUGH Mix the Sourdough Starter with the 1½ cups water, salt and rye flour. Cover and place in a warm area at about 75°F for 24 hours. MAKING THE BREAD DOUGH Put the 5½ ounces boiling water into a large bowl and add the rye flour, salt and honey and mix it all together. Now add the pre-dough that you started the day before. If your sourdough starter is rather young and the pre-dough seems to be not very active, add a little yeast (1 teaspoon) to the dough. Mix everything with your hands until all flour is incorporated. Cover and let rise for an hour or until it has increased its size by one third. Place a good amount of flour on a large board and put the dough on top of it. Begin folding the dough from the top to the center, rotate it 90° and again fold the top of the dough to the center. Continue to do this until you made it two to three times around. Dust a proofing basket or bowl with a thick layer of rye flour and put the dough into it. Let rise until it has almost doubled its size (about 1 hour). After the first 30 minutes: Preheat the oven to 500°F with the baking sheet in it. When the hour is over: Flip the bread onto the hot baking sheet and place it in the oven. Then reduce the heat to 450°F. Bake for about 60 minutes or until the bread has a dark brown color and sounds hollow if you knock on its bottom. Let the bread cool completely before cutting it. Even better: Wait one day to increase the taste. This is a very dense, rustic, yet flavorful loaf. Enjoy this sliced and lightly toasted with butter and fresh garden herbs or use it to create open faced sandwiches. Perfect for a late summer picnic.
farm to table
Not all rye bread has sprung from a landfill, but this one has and it’s delicious.
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home + design
Connie Migliazzo and husband renovated the pool area with textural ferns while keeping it simple for many uses.
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home + design
Bit-by-Bit A landscape architect takes it slow redesigning her yard to maximize enjoyment in the creative process written by Melissa Dalton photography by Elijah Hoffman PASSING BY mounds of Mexican feather grass rippling in the breeze, the crunch of decomposed granite under foot, there is a feeling of calm walking up to Connie Migliazzo’s house in Southwest Portland. That’s relatively new for the 1953 abode, which before, had a yard as common as they come: lawn, and more lawn at the front, side and back. “There were some intermittent random plants, a crumbling lava rock wall, but mostly just lawn,” Migliazzo said. “I wanted to do my own thing.” Migliazzo, a landscape architect and founder of the firm Prato, relocated with husband, Jonathan Kadish, a data scientist, from Berkeley, California in 2018. Ever since, they’ve been fixing up the interior of the Mid-century home with Helland Architecture—“It wasn’t a cool Mid-century before,” Migliazzo promised—while the large, almost half-acre lot, has been the landscape architect’s domain. “It’s really fun that it’s both my house and it’s also a proving ground for my business,” Migliazzo said. “I get to use it to experiment.” After the house construction wrapped, the front yard was “a giant mud pit,” which Migliazzo transformed into a modern and serene entry garden. During the remodel, the house’s dated exterior siding was replaced with a crisp white treatment, accented by a custom wood garage and entry door, making for an elegant backdrop for the earthy yellows, dusty blues, and sage greens in the new plantings and hardscape. “I like to keep my palette really minimal,” Migliazzo said, both in the color range and plant specimens. “I want there to be enough biodiversity and different textures, but I find that bigger swaths of one species have a more modern effect.” To that end, the front yard now has a “wavy ocean” of grasses, with a higher dwarf Pampas grass lining the street, and a few Eucalyptus trees arcing up for sculptural contrast. The couple replaced the chunky lava rock wall with streamlined concrete retaining walls inset with planting beds, with steps leading down to a cedar fence custom-designed, and built, by Migliazzo. JULY | AUGUST 2022
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home + design
Many of the plant picks tend to be, while not necessarily native, adaptive to the increasingly hot Portland summers and drought tolerant. “I have hardy bananas, yuccas, palms and agaves. People are always surprised to see these,” Migliazzo noted. “But choosing plants that don’t require a ton of summer water is how I like to approach my projects.” The designer notes that success with such picks requires knowing which varieties will be okay with the cold, wet winters, and timing the install just right. “You have to be careful about what soil you plant them in, and what time of year you plant them,” Migliazzo said. “Like with agaves, it’s better to plant them in the spring, so that they get the dry summer to root out and establish.” In the backyard, the centerpiece is the pool, which was there when the couple bought the house, albeit surrounded by more crumbling concrete and the ubiquitous lawn. First, Migliazzo terraced the large yard, creating an upper dining area right off the house, with a lower terrace for the pool, separated by a gently sloping planting bed covered in textural evergreens. “It just really makes me happy when you’re in the depths of depressing winter, to look outside and see plants that are lively and green,” Migliazzo said. At the pool, the couple removed the existing hardscaping and laid down an Ipe deck themselves, using narrow planks that emphasize the organic, Mid-century shape. Ipe is known as a dense and durable tropical hardwood that’s perfectly suited for outdoor features. It just took a while to install. “We had to pre-drill every hole,” Migliazzo said. After getting the deck down, the couple later added benches and a sunning platform that conceals a hot tub, making their backyard a popular spot among friends. “My parents had a pool and loved to entertain, and I really wanted to create a house like that: a place where people gathered,” Migliazzo said. “Being surrounded by friends and food and community is really important, and I think the pool just helps bring people together.” The rest of the year, they leave the pool uncovered even when not in use, as it’s generally warm 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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home + design
FROM LEFT Custom wood for the garage door helps bring the home forward from periodic stagnancy. The yard was planted with drought-tolerant species and separated into two terraces.
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home + design
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The upper terrace dining area. Simple pool decking and styling. Drought-resistant plants surround the pool.
“My parents had a pool and loved to entertain, and I really wanted to create a house like that: a place where people gathered. Being surrounded by friends and food and community is really important, and I think the pool just helps bring people together.” — Connie Migliazzo, landscape architect and founder/principal of Prato
enough to do so. Migliazzo had the pool interior refinished so the water appears, less the artificial turquoise of its Midcentury days, and more like a naturalistic pond, which she can appreciate from the windows over the kitchen sink. Of course, there are future projects in the works, both big and small, like an empty expanse prepped for an ADU, and 44 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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vegetable beds through which to teach her children about gardening food. Migliazzo is perfectly happy with not having everything done yet: “It’s a long process and continues to be, but I like it that way. I get to enjoy pieces of it at a time and then rethink things. Landscapes are living, so it’s a constantly evolving project.”
home + design
DIY: Cornhole Board illustrations by Jenna Lechner
THE ORIGINS OF the modern lawn game known as cornhole are a bit of a mystery, but a patent filed on September 25, 1883, seems to offer a clue. For it, a person named Heyliger Adams de Windt of Chicago, describes an apparatus for playing a game called ParlorQuoits, which was an indoor bean bag toss game using inclined boards with a designated hole as a target for the bag. “My present invention has for its object to provide a new game which shall be particularly suited to indoor amusement, and which may be played with an apparatus that will be inexpensive, simple, durable, and noiseless,” wrote Adams de Windt. These days, cornhole is typically played outside in lawns and parking lots rather than a parlor, but, as in Adams de Windt’s day, it’s still a fairly simple and inexpensive apparatus to make, requiring basic tools and supplies, and completed in an afternoon. Here are our tips: GO OFFICIAL Yes, there is an official organization for cornhole: the American Cornhole Association, which formed in 2003 in Cincinnati. Its website lists regulation cornhole board dimensions, including height, width, and diameter of the hole. Boards need to be 48-inches x 24-inches with a half-inch-thick plywood top. At the front, the board should only be 3 to 4 inches high, rising to 12 inches at the rear. The hole diameter is 6 inches, and the center should be
placed 12 inches from either edge and 9 inches from the top. Cornhole bags should also meet certain requirements, including weight (14-16 ounces), dimensions (6-inches x 6-inches), and filling (two cups corn or resin pellets). GATHER SUPPLIES Materials include wood 2x4s cut to specific lengths for the frame and legs, plywood for the platform surface, and deck or wood screws, and carriage bolts for attachment. Also, sandpaper, primer, and paint for the finish. Double these instructions to make two boards to form a regulation court. (Yup, there’s rules for that, too). BUILD THE BOX Cut the plywood to size for the top, then mark the location of the circle and cut it out using a jigsaw. Cut the 2x4s to form the frame: two at 48 inches long, and two measuring 21 inches. Form a rectangle with these
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pieces, with the 21-inch boards on the inside. Screw the frame together and attach the plywood top. CUT AND ATTACH LEGS Legs will be angled on one end and rounded on the other, where they are attached to the frame. Cut a 2x4 to 12 ¼ inches long, then cut a 25-degree angle at one end. On the opposite end, drill a hole located 1 ¾ inch from the top and side edges. Then round each corner with a 45-degree cut and some sandpaper. Attach the legs, with the rounded end inside the frame and the angled side to the ground, using a carriage bolt. Make sure the rear board height is twelve inches from the ground, and adjust if not. DECORATE Sand down the surface of the plywood board and prime it. Apply decoration of your preference, but use semi-gloss paint so the bags will slide smoothly. Have fun!
home + design
Modern Picnic Picnics that pay environmental homage to their surrounding natural spaces
Handmade in Eugene, Oregon, by Marley’s Monsters, these cloth wipes are begging to adorn your next outdoor lunch outing. The 100-percent cotton flannel, here printed with a vintage fruit pattern, is absorbent like a napkin, and to reuse for next time, just throw them in the wash when you get home. www.marleysmonsters.com Skip the paper dishes and dine-a-deux with this plate and bowl bundle from the Bend-based Hydro Flask. There are so many great details to appreciate, from the insulated construction that regulates food temps, to the stainless-steel accents that prevent flavor transfer, to the BPA- and toxin-free materials, to the fun colors! www.hydroflask.com Don’t forget the utensils: this reusable bamboo set travels in their own canvas roll-up pouch, complete with a stainless-steel straw and cleaning brush, courtesy of Hali Hali at Tender Loving Empire. Choose from several artsy patterns to mix and match. www.tenderlovingempire.com
You could lug around a big old plastic cooler to keep the provisions and Prosecco cold, but why bother when there’s this Vintage-inspired Striped Canvas Cooler? At 3.68 gallons, it’s a nice size for an afternoon at the park or beach, has a handy carry strap and contrasting recycled PVC lining, and outer pockets for stashing napkins. Just add an ice pack and your favorite snacks. www.food52.com
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mind + body
Late to the Game, But First to the Line Katherine Camarena of Portland State University sets school records and eyes the Olympics written by Jonathan Shipley
Camarena got a late start in high school but now runs among the best.
THERE’S A SPRING in Katherine Camarena’s step, and there are medals around her neck. It’s because she’s one of Portland State University’s greatest athletes ever. A track star, she holds the school record in the 800 meter, the mile, the 3,000 meter and the 5,000 meter. She holds the Big Sky Conference record in the mile and the 3,000. She has been awarded the Big Sky Women’s Track Athlete of the Year in 2021. She’s a two-time Big Sky champion. One for steeplechase. The other for the 5,000. She’s been an NCAA nationals qualifier a handful of times for both indoor and outdoor track. Her placements at the NCAA Indoor Championships were the highest ever by a PSU Viking at an NCAA indoor meet.
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mind + body
Katherine Camarena Portland State University Cross-Country Runner
Age: 24 Born: San Juan Capistrano, California Residence: Portland
Photos: Portland State University
WORKOUT
Camarena competes in a distance race at Boston University. Protein and fruit are key staples of her training regimen.
Yes, there’s a spring in her step and she’s eager to step, hopefully sometime soon, onto an Olympic medal stand. This is more intriguing because Camarena didn’t even start running until high school when her older brother suggested she try it. “Once I started,” she said, “I really enjoyed it and knew I wanted to run track.” She hasn’t stopped. It didn’t take her long before she realized she was good at it. That first year running high school track was all it took. “My fastest time for three miles was just under 19 minutes and I made the varsity team. I knew that I wanted to keep trying to run faster and see how far I could go.” “One of the highlights at Portland State,” she said, having transferred from UC Santa Barbara, “was earning
All-Conference honors and leading the team to its best finish ever.” That year, the PSU team finished third. Camarena is just getting started. Ribbons, trophies, and certificates of praise fill Camarena’s house. One medal, however, is missing. “I hope to qualify for the Olympic Trials in 2024, and in a perfect world, make the team.” If not 2024, 2028 looms large. “I’ll have more experience by then, racing at a higher level.” She hopes to become a professional runner after she’s exhausted her NCAA eligibility. “I hope for a professional contract or a team that works for me,” she said. A blur on the track, Camarena’s on track for even greater things. Though her trophy case is full, there’s always room for more. There’s always that next race to see how fast she can go.
“It depends on the day. Sundays are for long runs which are usually 20% of my weekly mileage goal, so I usually run 14-16 miles. Monday and Wednesdays are easy runs, usually with four to six 100-meter strides. Then I do weights, core exercises and steeplechase drills. Tuesdays and Fridays are workout days. These days also vary depending on the point in the season and the race I’m running next. Thursday and Saturday I just run easy for as long as needed to reach my weekly mileage goals.”
NUTRITION “I try to keep a balanced diet that incorporates a lot of protein and iron. Bars (Kind bars and Clif bars are my favorite) and fruits are my go-to snack, especially after runs. My favorite dinner dish is pasta. I will make pasta with chicken or ground beef and a big salad at least twice a week (usually more) … My secret treats that I love are cookies! Especially Double-stuf Oreos or Thin Mints when it’s Girl Scout cookie season.”
INSPIRATIONS “I am really self-motivated. I really want to see how fast I can be and what my full potential is. Another thing that motivates me is thinking back on how far I have come, how much I have progressed, and all the work I have put in. When things get hard, I reflect on how proud the 14-year-old version of myself would be and how proud I will continue to be of myself in the future if I stick with it. When I was 14, I never dreamed I would be as good as I am now, and it’s fun to think of all the potential I still have.”
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Daniel O’Neil
artist in residence
Chinookan artist Greg Robinson examines a cedar bowl in the initial stage of carving.
Welcoming Tradition Greg Robinson’s journey into Chinookan art written by Daniel O’Neil
ALTHOUGH HE NOW has distinctively Chinookan work in Pacific Northwest museums, galleries, and collections public and private, Greg Robinson entered carving without a clearly defined Chinookan art form. Examples existed, but most lay buried in museum storage, dusty basements, private homes or the basalt-rich Chinookan earth. Epidemics and forced assimilation had silenced much of Chinookan culture since the 1800s. “When you have an 80 percent die-off within a decade, all of that cultural information that’s been passed down orally is gone,” Robinson said. “It hasn’t been recorded, so you’re left with remnants, and you put those back together the best you can.” 52
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As vice-chairman of the Chinook Indian Nation’s cultural committee, Robinson began the new millennium by gathering photographs of his people’s original art. He did not yet know what he would end up doing with such a collection. Robinson had drawn wildlife in his youth and carved a few gunstocks in his 20s. But when he joined the cultural committee in his early 40s, he wasn’t making art. Two significant tribal projects then shaped Robinson’s path. First came the construction of a traditional Chinookan plankhouse near Ridgefield, Washington, beginning in late 2003. The Chinook, who have lived along the Columbia River for more than 10,000 years, once controlled the powerful waterway from its mouth to Celilo Falls. Their exceptional natural resources allowed for a highly developed culture. The plankhouse would serve as a home for Chinookan culture today.
artist in residence
“I began to realize there’s quite a bit of flexibility in the art form, and I incorporated that freedom into my art. I needed to be able to make my own compositions, develop my own style of faces and things that you can always tell are my work.” Robinson served as plankhouse project coordinator. For twoand-a-half years, he spent every day onsite and began learning alongside experienced Native carvers. Momentum inspired Robinson to take a few basic carving classes, and soon enough he had found a medium for all of the Chinookan art images he had been collecting and contemplating. “I began to realize there’s quite a bit of flexibility in the art form, and I incorporated that freedom into my art,” Robinson said. “I needed to be able to make my own compositions, develop my own style of faces and things that you can always tell are my work.” Canoe Journey, a multiday voyage of Northwest Coast tribes in hand-carved cedar canoes, propelled Robinson deeper into Chinookan culture. Robinson credits Canoe Journey with helping tribes across Washington and Oregon rediscover their own art. “Alaskan formline art had swept through the Northwest as the first mainstream Native art, at the sacrifice of tribes’ own art forms,” Robinson said. “Canoe Journey let tribes show off their own art, songs and dances, not somebody else’s.” Further inspiration came from Indigenous Columbia River carver Lillian Pitt, whom Robinson honors as the matriarch of that movement. “Lillian was doing her own work when there was very little market for it, developing that market and that reputation,” he said. By 2007, with the plankhouse built and the Chinook working on more canoes, Robinson’s art had caught local attention. He sold a cedar bowl through the Quintana Galleries in Portland, and soon afterward had his first solo show there. “I liked his personality, and I’m looking for tradition keepers,” said Cecily Quintana, the gallery’s director. “His knowledge about his culture, his study of the older works, was intriguing.” The Portland Art Museum eventually acquired works, as did Seattle’s Burke Museum. Robinson ascended to the Chinook Nation’s tribal council for nine years. More importantly, he began 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Daniel O’Neil
— Greg Robinson, artist
teaching with fellow carver Greg Archuleta in the Grand Ronde Confederated Tribes’ Lifeways program. Through Lifeways and the plankhouse, Robinson shares his knowledge of carving, materials gathering and weaving, language and other Chinookan culture with tribal members and the general public. “We’ve done lots of interaction with school kids at the plankhouse, painting with pigments, weaving, putting together little necklaces,” Robinson said. “Generations of school kids are growing up with at least some exposure.” Teaching Chinookan culture extends far beyond Robinson’s own people. His art—which now includes paintings that explore the abstract boundaries of the Chinookan form—exists in the
Greg Archuleta
Kevin McConnell for Quintana Galleries
artist in residence
Museum Purchase: Funds provided by Barbara Christy Wagner, © Greg Robinson, 2014.92.3
CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Greg Robinson’s We Have Always Been Here welcomes passersby at either end of Tilikum Crossing in Portland. Robinson was featured in the first exhibition of Portland Art Museum’s Center for Contemporary Native Art in 2015. A comb created by Robinson. A Robinson carving depicts the grizzly bear (photo: Kevin McConnell for Quintana Galleries). Robinson’s The High Status of Salamander, 2014, in yellow and red cedar.
public domain across his ancestral territory of the lower Columbia River. Of note are his “Welcome Posts,” tall basalt carvings that represent supernatural Chinookan figures, the true, local equivalent of a totem pole. The basalt figures at Parkersville Historic Park in Camas, Washington, and on either side of Tilikum Crossing bridge in Portland, represent the Chinookan continuum. “People who have lived here their entire lives can see this form and not know it’s Chinookan,” Robinson said. “We’re not some photograph to hang on a wall. It’s not a static art form — it’s ongoing and developing. So places like Tilikum Crossing, those types of opportunities expose people to that kind of thing on a daily basis.”
Robinson’s art also calls attention to his tribe’s ignored status. Treaties signed in 1851 between the Chinook and the United States government still have not been ratified by Congress. “Greg has done amazing work putting the Chinook on the map,” said Deana Dartt, former curator of Native American art at the Portland Art Museum. “He has made the unrecognized Chinook visible in Portland.” Chinookan culture and tradition have existed for thousands of generations. Greg Robinson and fellow Chinook artists keep the flame burning for those to come. “Our families have always been here,” Robinson said. “Even though there’s a break in cultural knowledge, there’s no break in the chain of blood and bone.” JULY | AUGUST 2022
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WHAT’S GOING UP 60 MY WORKSPACE 62 GAME CHANGER 64
pg. 60 The $153 million renovation of OSU’s Reser Stadium is expected to be completed by kickoff of the 2023 football season.
Oregon State University
STARTUP 58
Photos: Biomotum
startup
“We’ve seen lots of great ideas and products sit in academic labs with no effort to bring them to market. Zach reached out to me and described a wearable robot he had been working on and wanted to try and commercialize. It was very easy to say yes.” — Ray Browning, Biomotum co-founder and CEO
Biomotum’s exoskeletons help kids with disabilities get back on their feet.
Transforming Mobility Biomotum’s robotic system aims to assist people living with mobility impairments written by Jonathan Shipley A CHILD HAS cerebral palsy. She has difficulty with bodily movements. There is muscle rigidity. There’s a shortening of muscle. She has problems with coordination. She has overactive reflexes; involuntary movements. The child has spasms; tremors. She has difficulty walking, putting one foot in front of the other. When she puts on a wearable robot, created by Portland-based Biomotum, she stands. Using the Biomotum’s SPARK Robotic Exoskeleton, she takes a step and then another. The child smiles with a sense of new found freedom. “Parents are calling it lifechanging,” said Biomotum’s co-founder and CEO, Ray Browning. Browning and co-founder and CTO Dr. Zach Lerner have known each other since 2011. The two have always been interested in finding ways for individuals to be physically active. Browning is a seven-time Ironman winner and worked in research for years at Nike. Lerner is an assistant professor of mechanical engineering at Northern Arizona University and was a postdoctoral researcher at the National Institute of Health. “We’ve seen lots 58 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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of great ideas and products sit in academic labs with no effort to bring them to market,” Browning said. “Zach reached out to me and described a wearable robot he had been working on and wanted to try and commercialize. It was very easy to say yes.” Biomotum is a leading developer of robotic exoskeletons. The company applies advanced robotics to enhance the rehabilitation, recovery, and personal mobility function of individuals living with an impaired gait. Its wearable robots are light, simple to use, and can make walking easier by providing assistance. They work indoors and outdoors on a variety of terrains. This is different from most exoskeletons on the market today, which are often complex, heavy, and designed for people with very limited to no mobility. SPARK is an untethered, go-anywhere research platform that provides dorsiflexion and plantarflexion assistance or resistance, and can be customized for a wide variety of applications. “Our robots,” Browning said, “can make walking more difficult [to strengthen muscles]. As a result, they can improve a person’s ability to walk after they’ve used the robot, improving their mobility over time.” The startup is participating in Remarkable, a startup accelerator made possible by the Cerebral Palsy Alliance, which helps Biomotum bring their robots to market. Though created for people of all types of individuals with mobility issues, Biomotum is eager to work with children’s hospitals and physical therapists throughout North America and also with United Cerebral Palsy, an international nonprofit charitable organization and leading service provider and advocate for adults and children with disabilities. It’s research partners are Gillette Children’s Specialty Care, based in St. Paul, Minnesota, and Chicago-based Shirley Ryan AbilityLab. In a year’s time, Browning and his team will have completed clinical trials required by FDA clearance and execute a soft launch in Canada before hitting broader markets. One step at a tine, Biomotum is bringing robot-assisted positive change to children with cerebral palsy.
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what’s going up?
The $153 million renovation of Reser Stadium at OSU will also become a recruiting tool for the football program.
Game On Renovations abound at Oregon’s big universities written by Jonathan Shipley OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY THE OREGON State Beavers may have to change their fight song. Currently, it’s “Hail to Old OSU” but there will be nothing old about Oregon State’s Reser Stadium soon. Home to the OSU Beaver football team, the stadium is going through a $153 million renovation. The university expects it to be completed before the kickoff of the 2023 season. The project will fully renovate the stadium’s west side. It will include a student welcome center that will serve as the first on-campus point of connection to welcome prospective students and their families to OSU. In addition, a new student medical facility will be located on the southeastern corner of the stadium.
Oregon State University
UNIVERSITY OF OREGON The University of Oregon’s newly renovated track and field stadium, Hayward Field, has taken center stage. The historic 100-year-old facility has been entirely renovated with a cost of more than $270 million. Funded entirely by private donations, led by Nike co-founder Phil Knight and Penny Knight, the world-class facility includes an underground museum and a ten-story tower. Also, PK Park, home of the University of Oregon’s baseball team, has just been renovated for the new season. It includes new turf, shorter fences, and a new video board. This is the first major renovation since the Oregon Ducks brought the baseball program back in 2009.
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my workspace
When Edmond and Mary Stephens crossed the United States from Kentucky around 1870 and landed in Lost Valley, Oregon, they unwittingly planted the seed that led to their greatgreat-great grandson to return to the area to buy the local newspaper, The Times-Journal. The Stephens were among the first homesteaders in the area, and their hard-working spirit lives on within Stephen Allen’s approach to owning a print newspaper in a digital world.
Going Home A return to roots in Eastern Oregon for Times-Journal owner Stephen Allen written by Joni Kabana
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Even though Allen lived an idyllic childhood life in Spray, Oregon, and surrounding areas, he left the region to explore other countries after obtaining degrees in International Studies and Spanish. He had no plans to return. Allen made a living in the humanitarian aid sector, traveling and living abroad. While working for the International Rescue Committee, he resettled close to 10,000 refugees.
my workspace
The newspaper’s office is more like a museum than an office. Built in 1903, the building is made of stone that was quarried near Lost Valley, where Allen’s ancestors homesteaded. Two old presses are still located in the shop while a third press is currently housed nearby in the Gilliam County Historical Museum. Allen is especially fond of the 1919 Linotype, which revolutionized the print industry in its time by melting lead and creating lines of type, replacing setting type by hand. In addition, a Heidelberg Windmill press, made in West Germany in 1951 is operational and produces beautiful letterpress prints.
Gilliam County Historical Society
The death of Allen’s sister in 2018 had a profound effect on the entire family, and Allen and his wife decided they wanted to return to Allen’s home in Condon to raise their daughter. When Allen mentioned to friends that he was thinking about buying the old newspaper, they deemed him crazy. Allen’s deep conviction to traditional forms of local news won out, and in 2019, he became the publisher of this newspaper whose roots began in 1886.
Jeremy Kirby
The Times-Journal building around 1910.
Allen’s reporting has initiated several changes to the area from influencing bond passing to scrutinizing board chairs. His devotion to the community extends well beyond the newspaper: He is president of the Oregon Frontier Chamber of Commerce, Secretary of the Condon Arts Council, Secretary, and disc jockey of Wheeler County Broadcasters and serves on the board of the Gilliam County Historical Society. In Europe, the term “village” is still commonly used, and that is what Allen loves most about living in Condon.
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game changer
After the Smoke Clears Santiam Canyon Wildfire Relief Fund rises from the ashes of a tragic fire written by James Sinks WHEN THE SMOKE began clearing after wind-whipped wildfires raced through the Santiam Canyon in 2020, evacuated property owners and residents were allowed to return and discover what was left. For Cindy Chauran and Deana Freres, the news was grim: Theirs were among 700 families whose places burned to the ground. The Chauran family’s primary residence in Gates was reduced to ash, and the Freres family lost a rental fishing cabin on the Santiam River. Unlike so many who suffered losses, however, they weren’t left destitute. So when Chauran received offers of financial help from extended family, she wanted to donate it. She talked to longtime friend Freres and, within two weeks and with the help of Santiam Hospital in Stayton, they’d launched the Santiam Canyon Wildfire Relief Fund—with a notion of raising and donating $5 million. Less than two years later, that once-longshot goal is within reach. The nonprofit fund has collected more than $4.25 million and counting from donors large and small, and doled out $2.4 million so far in mostly small grants. “The fire has absolutely impacted everyone in a deep and meaningful way,” said Freres, who volunteers to help oversee the fund and whose family runs Freres Lumber Co. in Lyons, one of the last remaining sawmills in the region. “We think the fund is a huge beam of hope for people who have exhausted all of their available public resources, and that we can be that last drop in the bucket to get them to their recovery.” The Santiam Canyon isn’t McMansion country. It’s mostly made up of small farms, timberland and blue-collar logging 64
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towns like Gates, Lyons and the aptly-named Mill City, clustered along Highway 22 between Salem and Bend. The closest thing to a resort town, the lakeside community of Detroit, lost its city hall and most of its commercial district. Fire-affected homeowners have received the lion’s share of the fund’s assistance, via checks of between $500 and $5,000, after that’ve used up government assistance dollars. To be eligible, people must live in the canyon or plan to return, and work with disaster case managers. Affected families who lost primary residences are prioritized, versus those with weekend cabMORE ONLINE ins. The fund is now accepting applications for To donate funds help from small businesses. to SCWRF, head Because the fund is administered through to www.SCWRF.org Santiam Hospital, all overhead costs like accounting and auditing are covered. As a result, every dime that’s collected will go to wildfire relief, Freres said. In addition to local donations, the fund has attracted grants from the American Red Cross and Oregon Community Foundation. (Chauran’s efforts to launch the fund and her continuing advocacy earned her the distinction as the Oregon 2022 Woman of the Year by USA Today.) Freres said there aren’t plans to raise the goal beyond $5 million—“We would love to put ourselves out of business as soon as possible,” she said. At the same time, the organization is thinking beyond its lifespan, and participating in conversations to help ensure the region is better prepared in the event of another disaster, whether a fire or something else. That’s a lesson that other fireprone places can learn from, as well, she said. “Know your neighbors and who does what, and start coordinating now,” she said.
“The fire has absolutely impacted everyone in a deep and meaningful way. We think the fund is a huge beam of hope for people who have exhausted all of their available public resources, and that we can be that last drop in the bucket to get them to their recovery.” — Deana Freres, of the Santiam Canyon Wildfire Relief Fund
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Fishing, swimming, houseboating & kayaking are in the summer mix written by Jean Chen Smith
With warmer days ahead, we have some ideas on how to stay cool and have fun doing it. Whether you are a swimmer, fishing enthusiast or boater, here are the perfect water activities to keep you busy this summer! 66
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McKercher County Park is a popular spot for swimming. (photo: Linn County Parks & Recreation) CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Foster Reservoir in the Willamette Valley at daybreak. The reservoir is also a good old-fashioned fishing hole. Nearby Green Peter Reservoir is another great spot for solitude. (photos, clockwise from top: Ryan Cummings, Linn County Parks & Recreation, Melody Reese)
SWEET HOME
Fishing at Foster Reservoir Located near Sweet Home, Foster Reservoir, also known as Foster Lake, is one of thirteen reservoirs in the Willamette Valley and was built by the U.S. Corps of Army Engineers in the ’60s. The reservoir stretches 3 miles in length and offers a variety of activities for residents and tourists alike, but it is most popular for fishing. The
reservoir is reportedly stocked with 40,000 trout annually. The lake also contains other fish such as bass, yellow perch, bluegill, crappie, Chinook salmon and kokanee. Situated close to I-5 and a great site for camping and picnicking, expect to spot wildlife such as the northern spotted owl and western pond turtle. In the cold winter months, the reservoir serves to control flooding for the area.
BROWNSVILLE
Swimming Holes in McKercher County Park
McKercher County Park sits 6 miles from the town of Brownsville, conveniently off Highway 228. Visitors will find a series of plunge pools in the Calapooia River, shaded by picturesque Douglas fir trees, providing relief from the summer heat. The swimming holes vary in depth and size, some are shallow and safe for most children, while many are deep and require adequate swimming experience. The park has a small waterfall in addition to a sandy beach along the main swimming area, which is located downstream. Easy trails for hiking and meandering are abundant in the park as well as many areas for picnicking. COOL TIPS: Very popular in the warmer months, get there early. Other activities include hiking, rock jumping and fishing. Dogs must be on a leash and no camping is allowed in the park. Thirty miles north of Eugene, McKercher County Park is a delightful retreat. (photo: OregonDiscovery.com)
COOL TIPS: The lake is open year-round and available for winter fishing. Bank access is easy and not crowded even during summer. Popular areas are near the dam and along the south shore. If more solitude is what you’re seeking, take a quick drive up Quartzville Road to Green Peter Reservoir, which offers an additional 10 miles of refreshing splendor.
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CHARLESTON
Kayaking and Paddleboarding at South Slough Reserve
Kayakers and paddleboarders will appreciate the 7,000 acres of pristine nature and wildlife at the South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve situated along the Coos Estuary on Oregon’s southern coastline. The estuary was established in 1974 as the first of a network of estuary habitats protected and managed for long-term research, education, and coastal stewardship known as the National Estuarine Research Reserve System or NERRS for short. Visitors will find a system of open water channels, tidal and freshwater wetlands as well as forested uplands. The reserve supports research and holds education and stewardship programs through tours, classes, and events. The variety of wildlife is plentiful in this area. Water enthusiasts can look up to spy bald eagles, osprey, great blue herons along with egrets and belted kingfishers, or look down to see seals, jumping
shiner perch and jellyfish floating through the channel. If you look closely enough, crabs can be seen crawling along the estuary bottom. Flora abounds due to the diversity of the reserve. Spot these during your visit: evergreen huckleberry, Pacific sword fern, Port Orford cedar, salmonberry, Roosevelt elk, salal, Sitka spruce, Baltic rush, fleshy jaumea, Pacific silverweed, salt grass, seaside arrowgrass and tufted hairgrass. If you discover skunk cabbage, you might want to head in the other direction as it emits an odor like its namesake. COOL TIPS: Visitors can opt to bring their own kayaks or canoes or join a guided tour offered by the Reserve, during which they can be rented. Guided tours are offered several times a year. There are three water trails (Hinch and Back Trail, Sengstacken Arm Trail and Charleston to Hinch Trail) visitors can take. Always check the weather and tide conditions before heading out. The pristine South Slough Reserve National Estuarine area is the setting for a gorgeous day in kayaks. (photo: South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve)
Water enthusiasts can look up to spy bald eagles, osprey, great blue herons along with egrets and belted kingfishers, or look down to see seals, jumping shiner perch and jellyfish floating through the channel. If you look closely enough, crabs can be seen crawling along the estuary bottom. 68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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The handsome Lake Billy Chinook in Central Oregon. (photo: TravelOregon.com)
CULVER
Rent a Houseboat or Pontoon at Lake Billy Chinook Cove Palisades Resort and Marina in Jefferson County is situated on Lake Billy Chinook, a reservoir at the merging of the Crooked, Deschutes and Metolius Rivers. The lake’s name pays homage to Billy Chinook, a chief of the Wasco Tribe, who joined the John C. Fremont expedition in 1843. There are two types of houseboats available for rent, the Palisades and the Cove, both with comfortable amenities such as an entertainment center, air conditioning, hot tub and barbecue. Rent a pontoon boat and set out among the Cascade Mountains, where you might spot a bald eagle or two as you take in the beauty of the steep canyon. The lake offers approximately 72 miles of shoreline where wildlife is abundant. The resort offers other recreation watercraft such as kayaks, paddle boats and stand-up paddle boards. There is a casual café that sells snacks and souvenirs. COOL TIPS: The lake is a three-hour drive from Portland and an easy forty-five minutes north of Bend. Pets are allowed on some pontoon rentals for a modest fee.
The mighty Columbia River and Hood River are the playground for wind-powered water sports. (photo: Visit Hood River)
HOOD RIVER
Windsurfing and Kiteboarding in the Columbia River Gorge Hood River is an easy one-hour drive from Portland and a popular destination for windsurfers and kiteboarders. On a typical windy day at the Hood River Marina, you will see an array of colorful sails and bright kites energetically cutting through the air. This is a prime spot for athletes, families and kids, so Hood Rive is an internationally sought destination for windsurfers. (photo: Visit Hood River)
pack a picnic for the day or grab a bite to eat at the many restaurant offerings along the waterfront. Ferment Brewing Company makes a deliciously satisfying cheeseburger. Or head to one of the food trucks such as Solstice Pizza or Paco’s Tacos for your carb and Mexican food fix.
COOL TIPS: Steady winds blow 10 to 25 mph and sometimes climb to 35 mph through the Columbia River Gorge, so if your hat has a chinstrap, use it!
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Bring or rent inflatables on the Deschutes River in Bend. (photo: Bend Park & Recreation District)
BEND
Floating the Deschutes River This is a popular activity for kids and adults in summer. The Bend Whitewater Park is on the Deschutes River close to the Old Mill District, where there is a plethora of shopping and dining options. Choose between a two-hour float starting at Riverbend Park and ending at Drake Park or a one-hour float from either Riverbend Park to McKay Park or McKay Park to Drake Park. Rent your tubes from Sun Country Tours, which offers safe tubes with dual air chambers as well as comfortable seating with fabric covers. On the other side of the Deschutes, Farewell Bend has a beach launch as does McKay Park, just after the Bend Whitewater Park, where adventurists will be met with respectable waves. Opened in 2015, the park is an idyllic way to spend a hot summer day. Children younger than 12 must always wear a personal flotation device while moving on the water. Life Jacket rentals are free. For more safety tips and a detailed outline, head to the Bend Parks and Recreation website. COOL TIPS: Parking is available at Riverbend Park, Farewell Bend Park, Miller’s Landing Park and Park & Float (which is located across from The Pavilion). Consider using the Ride the River shuttle service which leaves and returns to Park & Float, costs $5 roundtrip, runs mid-June through Labor Day, and saves you the effort of trekking with your water device of choice from the takeout point back to your car.
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The new summer cool is floating down the Deschutes River and through Bend’s Old Mill District. (photo: Katie Falkenberg/TravelOregon.com)
Adrenaline kicks in on the Rogue River in Southern Oregon. (photo: Chad Case)
MERLIN
Whitewater Rafting on the Rogue River For a longer getaway, spend three to four days rafting on the Rogue River with Row Adventures, taking in the wildlife by day and winding down at night at selected lodges where dinner and comfortable beds are provided. The spectacular Rogue River flows through canyons with intermediate drops in addition to serene pools where swimming is possible. Opportunities abound to see river otters, eagles and possibly even black bears! Beginning and ending in Merlin, Oregon, the guided trip takes individuals, families, and couples through scenic spots otherwise inaccessible to the novice. The season for this trip runs from May through September, so make sure to book early. Children who are 7 and
older can participate and the intensity level is moderate. Tom Scarborough, ROW Adventures Rogue River operations manager, said that besides just being on the river, families will find themselves swimming, rock jumping and connecting with each other, which is priceless. COOL TIPS: Merlin, Oregon, is approximately 20 miles northwest of the city of Grants Pass. The nearest airport is the Rogue Valley International-Medford Airport (MFR). Weather can vary widely depending on whether you travel at the beginning or the end of the season. Early and late season trips can also have temperatures ranging from 60 to 80 degrees. Make sure to pack layers and bring rain gear. Download a complete list from the website.
The spectacular Rogue River flows through canyons with intermediate drops in addition to serene pools where swimming is possible. JULY | AUGUST 2022
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OREGON’S
OYSTERS Oregon’s resilient industry overcomes big obstacles, and faces new challenges written by Lee Lewis Husk
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hether you salivate at the sight of chilled oysters on the half shell or cringe at putting a slimy blob down your throat, you may not know that oysters pack a heavy weight on the ecological, financial and culinary scale. These mollusks are badass ocean filters, reef builders, shore stabilizers, nutritious food source, job creators and economy boosters. In Oregon, a thriving aquaculture industry has grown up around this marine animal but a disastrous event in the mid-2000s came close to wiping out oyster farming in the Pacific Northwest. Scientists have shown that the oceans absorb about one-third of carbon dioxide emissions from fossil fuels, which reduce pH levels causing seawater to become more acidic. Oysters, a keystone species, started flashing warning signs in 2006. In 2007, baby oysters were dying at an alarming rate at the Whiskey Creek Oyster Hatchery in Netarts Bay near Tillamook, which draws water directly from the sea. As the second largest shellfish hatchery on the West Coast, the hatchery supplies larvae, also known as seed, to oyster farmers up and down the coast. “Week after week, month after month, the baby oysters we attempted to produce wound up dead on
the bottom of our tanks,” Alan Barton, hatchery manager, said. Like others in the industry, Barton suspected a marine bacterium. “We had systems in place to deal with the bacterium, but they clearly weren’t working,” he recalled. By 2008, Whiskey Creek had lost 75 percent of its production. Even more alarming, all the remaining larvae died in a single night. Scrambling for an answer, Barton dug up a recent scientific research paper from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration documenting the upwelling of corrosive seawater along the Oregon Coast. Netarts Bay was awash in acidified water. Oyster farmers, NOAA and Oregon State University scientists worked together to show that carbonate levels weren’t enough for baby oysters to build shells. The cause of the massive larvae die-off was ocean acidification. JULY | AUGUST 2022
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“That was a big surprise,” Barton said. “In our industry, we didn’t think the pH of the ocean could change enough to affect oysters in our lifetimes.” Bill Dewey, director of public affairs at Taylor Shellfish, the largest producer of farmed oysters in Washington with one of the largest hatcheries in the country, said, “We were the first industry frankly to be impacted by ocean acidification and know it.” Oceanographers added another gut punch. The low pH water was due to deep Pacific Ocean currents containing polluted air from thirty to fifty years ago and resurfacing along California, Oregon and Washington shorelines. Even if the world stopped burning carbon, the situation would get worse as more deep water rises to the surface in coming decades. Farmers in Oregon and Washington realized that survival of the industry would hinge on adapting and mitigating the effects of a polluted ocean. They couldn’t decarbonize water offshore, but they could innovate new systems in hatcheries to help larvae survive by manipulating pH levels at a critical phase of shell growth. “We started buffering water immediately,” Barton said, referring to a process of dosing water with sodium carbonate to offset high acidity. Oregon and Washington legislators chipped in with funding for equipment that could monitor water quality in real time. Farmers learned that pH was low in the morning but photosynthesis throughout the day warmed the water, producing better conditions in the afternoon for adult spawning, dramatically increasing survival of the resulting larvae. “We scrambled to get production up in 2008 and eked out more larvae in 2009,” he said, taking advantage of buffering and fluctuations in pH depending on the time of day. Within a few years, the hatchery was back in production. It’s a solution that for works for now, but as Barton reports, the water in Whisky Creek Hatchery is “bad all the time.” And buffering itself can lead to low oxygen, killing larvae by the billions—another problem requiring adjustment. A team of scientists led by Chris Langdon, professor of fisheries in the Coastal Oregon Marine Experiment Station at the Hatfield Marine Science Center and OSU, has focused on improving oyster brood stock. Langdon
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and his colleagues are searching out genetic solutions among their breeding stock to create oysters resistant to ocean acidification and hypoxia. The predominant oyster grown in the Northwest is the non-native Pacific oyster transplanted from Japan in 1918. The native Olympia oyster had been decimated by overharvesting in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. West Coast oyster farms, including Oregon Oyster Farms in Yaquina Bay, have grown the Pacific oyster for a century, but the chilly water makes spawning difficult for this species. To grow adult oysters, the industry relied on importing Pacific oyster seed from Japan until the mid-1970s. At that point, another group of OSU scientists led by Willy Breese and Anja Robinson built insulated rooms at the Hatfield Marine Science Center and developed techniques for rearing Pacific oysters locally, fostering the development of oyster hatcheries in the Pacific Northwest. In fact, the work of OSU, the Hatfield Marine Science Center and NOAA has become a powerful force for pioneering new technologies and putting them into the hands of oyster farmers around the globe.
Thwarting pollution and disease Once the seed goes to farms in Tillamook, Netarts, Coos and Yaquina bays, the goal is to produce healthy adult oysters for the market. The first requirement for healthy oysters is healthy waters. One adult oyster can filter many gallons of water a day, a valuable contributor to an estuary’s ecosystem. But a hard-working oyster is no match for oil spills, septic overflow, city storm water, industry waste and other human-caused pollution. The industry depends heavily on agencies and entities to monitor water quality, according to Margaret Pilaro, a spokesperson for the aquaculture industry and former executive director of the Pacific Coast Shellfish Growers Association. The Oregon Department of Agriculture “keeps an extra careful eye on water quality,” she said. “It’s a great partner and important to shellfish.” Changes in temperature will bring new problems to oyster farmers. She points to harmful algal blooms and the arrival of new diseases. “We don’t know what we don’t know yet. When there’s a big mortality event, we must look at multiple possibilities,” she said, citing NOAA’s Integrated Ocean Observing System, or IOOS, that gathers data through a network of people and data sources across the country. For instance, a series of buoys obtain and gather ocean data that can be accessed by growers’ cell phones. “They can see what’s on their phone and make decisions based on what they should or shouldn’t do on a particular day, given salinity, temperature and other indicators,” she said. “It gives people access to tools.”
In 2021, the Oregon Legislature passed HB 3114 that provides $1.9 million to fund research and monitoring along the Oregon Coast and estuaries to fight ocean acidification and hypoxia, develop best management practices and conduct outreach and education. Another deadly threat is on the horizon but hasn’t yet made its way into Oregon and Washington waters. The Ostreid herpesvirus type 1 (OsHV-1), which has no health effect on humans, has wiped out farms in Europe, Australia and New Zealand. “It’s a very serious disease that kills oysters in a short timeframe,” according to OSU’s Langdon. “A farm can go from normal operation to losing more than 90 percent of it oysters within a week.” A less virulent strain of the herpes virus has existed in Tomales Bay in Marin County, California, where Colleen Burge, marine disease ecologist and the shellfish pathologist for the State of California, has studied it for two decades. She says that elevated water temperatures are consistently associated with oyster mortalities in Tomales Bay and may trigger viral replication and transmission of OsHV-1 to naïve juvenile oysters. The Tomales Bay virus has not spread outside the area, but a different variant of the virus was detected in San Diego Bay in 2018 where uninfected seed were planted and infected from an unknown source. All animals were removed, and no seed ever left San Diego Bay. To control the potential spread of OsHV-1 along the West Coast, imports of any shellfish for mariculture that originate south of Cape Mendocino, California, are not permitted into Oregon or Washington, according to the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife which regulates the transport of shellfish in state waters. Burge said PCSGA has done a good job of getting the message out to scientists and industry about being vigilant and testing for unusual mortalities. “Industry is well aware of where they can bring animals from and have proper health exams before bringing animals into a new environment,” she said. Because industry’s primary focus is growing oysters for market, it has less time for research, which is why Burge stresses the importance of collaboration with labs like hers and Langdon’s. “I’ve collaborated with a lot of different folks on the virus,” she said. “To some degree they drive the question, helping us understand what the next things are we need to know.” To prevent die-offs seen in other parts of the world, she and Langdon are looking for biomarkers for disease resistance to OsHV-1 and its variants. “We are also interested in providing tools and solutions for the U.S. shellfish industry to be prepared for spread of the herpes virus and its variants,” she said.
Changes in the marketplace Until Covid shuttered the food service industry in 2020, Liu Xin who owns Oregon Oyster Farms on Yaquina Bay did a brisk business shipping 150 dozen Kumamoto oysters and fifty dozen extra-small Pacific oysters to Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant in New York City. He also supplied oysters to local restaurants in Lincoln and Lane counties in a farm-to-table model as well as sending them overseas to Taiwan where consumers prefer larger Pacific oysters—some as big as ten inches. He says his business is recovering. “As long as you can maintain a sustainable way to grow oysters and market them, the future is bright. There’s a strong market for our product.” In 2021, the Oregon Department of Land Conservation and Development estimated that oysters have an annual economic value of $10.6 million in Oregon, noting that the state lags behind neighboring coastal states. The Oregon Legislature passed HB 2574 to help the LCDC create a tool that would improve the process of aquaculture siting and give the industry a boost while protecting sensitive marine environments. The industry consensus is that demand for Oregon oysters is high, and farmers could double or triple their current output. “Markets are responsive to what people want,” said industry spokesperson Pilaro. “West Coast states offer a rich array of flavor profiles on the oyster plate.” Like the terroir of wine, oysters have merroir—it’s the taste a Pacific oyster picks up from where it was grown. The popularity and growth of oyster bars from Seattle to San Diego a testament to savvy consumers a looking for variety and the chance to make comparisons between various farms and merroirs. “Having a whole coastline that has oysters coming from it is really exciting,” she said. “There’s a certain amount of pride from this area that produces food from waters healthy enough to grow this protein.” JULY | AUGUST 2022
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Cedar Salmon: Interdependence in action: The bodies of spawning salmon are the largest single pulse of nitrogen bearing “food” for Pacific Northwest forests each year. In return, trees provide the salmon with shade, which produces the cool waters it depends on, while also reducing the transmission of egg-smothering sediment onto their spawning grounds.
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FROM THE
artwork by Duncan Berry
THE IMAGES SHOWN here are an “active form of reverence” for coastal artist Duncan Berry. His studio lies at the epicenter of one of the world’s most beautiful places, the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve at Cascade Head on Oregon’s northern central coast. Combining the Japanese folk art of “Gyotaku” (or fish rubbing) with that of Europe’s botanically focused “nature printing,” his vibrant depictions of the creatures of the land, sea and air leap off the page, archival quality records of the vibrant life along our western shoreline. He hopes these creatures move you with their beauty, and inspire you to be an active advocate for their stewardship and protection. Learn more about the discipline of Gyotaku and see a broader range of Berry’s work by visiting www.bylandbyseabyair.com. You can also see his work at two current shows, one at the Oregon Coast Aquarium and the other at Hatfield Marine Science Center’s new Marine Studies Building. He also has a collection on display at the RiverSea Gallery in Astoria and the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa. (Read more about Cannery Pier Hotel on pg. 92.)
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Boa Kelp Spiral: The archetypal spiral of all life … as embodied by this abundant and lacy kelp that lives in the tidal near-shore from San Diego to Alaska’s Aleutian Islands. FAR RIGHT Young Giant Pacific Octopus: An astounding creature who has a donut-shaped central brain and mini-brains in each of its eight legs, copper-based blue blood pumped through its system by three hearts, is capable of changing its form, color and texture in less than a second and has an endearing “trickster” streak. (Shown here on a Birch hardwood panel)
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Chasing Pacific Herring: A large Chinook salmon buck chases one of its favorite foods, the Pacific herring, whose bodies are full of omega-3-rich nutrients after having fed on zooplankton during Oregon’s annual summer upwelling.
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FAR LEFT Creatures of the Deep: This menagerie of deep-sea fish is a unique collection of mesopelagic and bathypelagic fish made possible by Oregon State University’s Ichthyology Collection. They represent life spent in the dark, far from the sun’s rays. While they still interact with species that are dependent on the light, they live on a very different planet than the one we surface dwellers are accustomed to. Many create light within their own bodies and live at unimaginable depths— some at more than 7,500 feet below the surface. CENTER Flowers of the Sun: A visual reminder that, in the long run, it is our interrelationship with the sun and the natural world that will sustain us … even in the time of war. AT LEFT Against the Tide: A baby octopus makes its way against a tidal current near the shore by using its legs and the siphon in its head to move through the water.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 86 ADVENTURE 88 LODGING 92 TRIP PLANNER 94
pg. 100 On the Dumpling Trail in Richmond, BC. Northwest Destination takes us to the thriving Chinese community up north.
Tourism Richmond
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 100
COME FOR THE DUNES
STAY FOR THE MEMORIES
Tim Gohrke (photo produced as part of the Artist-in-Residence Program at John Day Fossil Beds National Monument)/NPS
travel spotlight
A self-taught scientist, Thomas Condon began finding fossils and identifying them in what would become a historic trove.
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travel spotlight
A Landscape Time Capsule The Thomas Condon Paleontology Center was founded on good bones in Eastern Oregon written by Joni Kabana OREGON’S WESTERN valley is filled Today, visitors can hike among with variations of terrains and land- the three units of a National Park scapes from breezy coastal sea Service monument: Sheep Rock, cliffs to roaring waterfalls to magical Painted Hills and Clarno and visit rainforests. Lesser explored is the the Thomas Condon Paleontology eastern side of the state where the Center to be educated on the ofair is dry, the remote and vast open ferings of the John Day Fossil Beds sky is a star-gazer’s delight and the National Monument. The geologic high desert rocky formations house layers in this area have the lonmillions of preserved fossils. gest and most continuous fossil In 1862, Thomas Conrecord from the Age of MORE ONLINE don, an Oregon congreMammals and Flowerpaleontologists gationalist minister and Watch ing Plants (Cenozoic) in at work on the self-taught scientist, gave paleontology center’s the National Park Service lab cam at www.bit. lectures on geology in and the monument’s rely/npspaleo his church in The Dalles cords span fifty-five to and kept hearing about preserved five million years ago, one of the ancient lands from soldiers pass- most complete fossil records in ing through who were attending his North America. presentations. Determined to see What makes this geology center these lands for himself, he set out unique, aside from its display of fosalong the John Day River in 1865 sils and its interactive guide to the with the First Oregon Calvary and evolution of the area’s landscape, was astonished at what he found: mammals and flora, is its fishbowl numerous fossil beds stretching for observatory where you can watch miles upon miles. paleontologists work on found obAfter excavating a wide variety of jects. Offices are housed across the fossils and sending them to O. C. street at Cant Ranch, a preserved Marsh (one of two people who par- homestead ranch where ballroom ticipated in the famed Bone Wars) dances and midnight dinners once of the Yale Peabody Museum for took place, which also hosts muverification, Condon sent speci- seum exhibits that address human mens to the Smithsonian Institution history in the area and is often open and soon was appointed the first during the summer. Oregon State Geologist. Condon Feeling motivated to do some also became the first professor of digging for yourself? Visit the fossil Natural History at the University of digging field behind the high school Oregon. The majority of Condon’s in Fossil, Oregon, where digging and original fossil collection can now be collecting is permitted. When exfound at the University of Oregon, a ploring any of the areas in the fossil portion of it on display at its Muse- beds, stay on designated trails and um of Natural and Cultural History. don’t collect artifacts so these forThroughout his lectures, Condon ty-five-million-year-old hills remain often cited that religion and mod- pristine for generations to come. ern science were not conflicting but See more at www.nps.gov/joda/ rather, they informed one another. index.htm.
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adventure
Secluded SUPing To SUP is human. To SUP in seclusion is divine. written by Jen Sotolongo
HOME TO calm rivers and crystal clear alpine lakes surrounded by mountain tops, paddleboarding enthusiasts can SUP just about anywhere in Oregon. The mild winter throughout much of the state means that with the right gear, paddling year-round is a possibility. Whether you prefer to while away the day in a lake, get a solid workout along one of the many designated water trails, or make a multi-day excursion stand-up paddlers won’t have to search far to find a serene spot to enjoy the sport. Permits are required for non-motorized watercraft, including paddleboards 10 feet or longer, as well as life jackets and whistles. One and two-year permits are available from ODFW and Oregon.gov.
GASTON
Henry Hagg Lake Just 30 miles southwest of Portland, Hagg Lake is a great option for year-round paddling. The lake is divided into a “wake zone” and “no wake zone” so human-powered vessels don’t have to worry about sharing space with motorized boats. On weekends and Monday holidays between Memorial Day and Labor Day, Scoggins Valley Outfitters offers paddleboard rentals. With a surface area of 1,113 acres, Hagg Lake has plenty of space to explore, even in peak season. Scoggins Valley Park, in which Hagg Lake is located, requires a parking permit; $7 for the day or $60 for an annual pass.
Henry Hagg Lake is a great option for yearround paddling.
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tualatinvalley.org
With a surface area of 1,113 acres, Hagg Lake has plenty of space to explore, even in peak season.
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Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
adventure
SILVERTON
Silverton Reservoir In the Cascade foothills 2.5 miles southeast of the charming town of Silverton, the beginner-friendly Silverton Reservoir is just under an hour drive from Portland, located in the foothills east of Salem. The 65-acre reservoir does not allow motorized traffic, so it’s a great option for those new to paddleboarding. Late spring and early summer are the best times to visit, when the lake is full. Paddle toward the south end of the lake to find peace away from the busier launch and picnic area. Parking permits are required, $5 for the day or $40 annually for non-residents. During the summer, plan to arrive early to find a parking spot. FLORENCE The famous Oregon Coast sand dunes near Florence create one of the highest concentrations of lakes in the state. A designated canoe trail guides paddlers from Siltcoos Lake along the 3-mile-long Siltcoos River. The tranquil water trail can be paddled in either direction and follows the tree-lined banks before arriving at the sand dunes and into an estuary that leads to the Pacific. Ample birding and wildlife opportunities, including river otters, harbor seals, and the belted kingfisher await the observant paddler. Launch points include the Lane County boat ramp at Siltcoos Lake, the Lodgepole picnic area, or Tyee Campground off of US 101 if you are a guest.
Jim Kinghorn
Siltcoos River Canoe Trail
ABOVE, FROM TOP The Siltcoos River Canoe Trail is a beautiful way to spend a day on the southern Oregon Coast. The 65-acre Silverton Reservoir in the foothills of the Cascades.
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adventure
KLAMATH NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
LA GRANDE
Upper Klamath Canoe Trail
Morgan Lake
If mountain views, bird watching, tranquil waters that weave through marshes sound up your alley, then you must add the Upper Klamath Canoe Trail to your paddling list. The 9.5-mile trail is located 25 miles west of Klamath Falls and features an open lake, freshwater marsh, and forest and does not permit motorized boats. The convergence of these environments lends to abundant wildlife. More than a million waterfowl migrate to the area and birders can look out for numerous bird species such as the American white pelican, osprey and belted kingfisher. Keep an eye out for mammals such as beavers and river otters. The trail is divided into four different sections: Recreation Creek, Crystal Creek, Wocus Cut and Malone Springs, each offering an idyllic environment within the Refuge. Fall and spring are the best times to paddle this trail, as they offer the best opportunities for bird watching. There are three boat launches along the route, as well as various rental outfitters. Parts of the marsh dry out during the summer, so check on conditions before visiting. Afternoon winds can make for a challenging return, so be sure to plan accordingly.
A mere 3.5 miles from La Grande, at the top of a mountain, Morgan Lake offers quiet paddling. When the temperatures soar, take a dip in the lake to cool off. The lake features several recreational amenities, including hiking trails, picnic tables, a boat ramp and a campground. There is no fee to camp at Morgan Lake, only a limit of three nights in order to allow other visitors the chance to enjoy the lake.
Discover Klamath
The Upper Klamath region is ideal for paddling and world-class birding.
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Morgan lake near La Grande has it all: swimming, paddling, hiking trails and picnic tables. (photo: EOU Outdoor Adventure Program)
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ROOMS Photos: Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa
Phase one of a multimillion-dollar upgrade just brought complete renovations to each of the hotel’s forty-six luxe guest rooms with thoughtful amenities, modern fixtures and contemporary design. Abundant windows and a private balcony provide extraordinary views of the Columbia River and the elegant AstoriaMegler Bridge. The best river views—and certainly the most memorable—are from the cozy window seat and decadent soaking tub.
FEATURES
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa rests 600 feet into the Columbia River. Every room at the hotel features a river view and private balcony. The Cannery Pier Hotel Hall of History.
Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa written by Kerry Newberry IN A TOWN steeped in maritime history, few places capture the soul of Astoria like the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa. When the luxury hotel first opened in 2005, it became an instant icon. Built on century-old pier pilings extending 600 feet into the Columbia River, the space was designed to recreate the feeling of the canneries of bygone days with smokestacks, exposed steel beams and wooden trusses. The electric red building is luminous even on oyster gray days. Set on the former site of the Union Fisherman’s Cooperative Packing Company, the hotel pays homage to the town’s past and present in creative ways. When you check in, your welcome envelope includes the daily schedule of inbound and outbound container ships provided by Columbia River Bar Pilots. You can study the massive carriers that take on a mythic glow at night as they plow through the Columbia River’s windswept waves using binoculars provided in each room. And get a sense of place from the Hall of History, a mixed media exhibit that shares pivotal moments in Astoria’s timeline from the fishing industry to canneries. To be this close to the water is a dream and from the lobby to the room to tucked away corners, you’ll find a wall of windows magnifying the vivid riverscape that shifts with each sunbreak and cloudburst and unexpected coastal storm. The beauty of Astoria lies in this unpredictably—in the ever-changing river that’s shaped the town—and this is the perfect spot to soak it all in. 10 BASIN ST ASTORIA www.cannerypierhotel.com
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Enjoy contemporary art by renowned Astoria artist Duncan Berry throughout the property, including many pieces in his chosen medium of Gyotaku (fish rubbing)—a Japanese technique originating in the eighteenth century. (See more of Berry’s work on pg. 76.) Head to the second floor Hall of History to discover Astoria’s rich heritage as the former salmon canneries capital of the world through stories, photos and videos from Clatsop County Historical Society. Most recently, the hotel partnered with Astoria Visual Arts, bringing the “Icons of Astoria” exhibit to life.
DINING For a small town, Astoria is packed with great dining options from exceptional craft breweries (Buoy Beer Co. and Fort George, to name a few) to Bowpicker Fish and Chips, where beer-battered Albacore tuna is served from a converted gillnet boat. Find scratchmade pastries and bread at Blue Scorcher Bakery and buzzy espresso drinks at Street 14 Cafe. Newer hotspots include South Bay Wild, a family-owned commercial fishing company and restaurant and Būsu Astoria, an ode to Japanese-inspired dishes and Pacific Northwest ingredients.
AMENITIES Seize sunny days with complimentary cruiser bicycles ideal for coasting the 6.4-mile Astoria Riverwalk. For dinner destinations, the luxury hotel has another set of wheels, a vintage Rolls-Royce car service, available on weekend evenings. A nightly reception hour pays homage to the region’s Scandinavian heritage with local wines and lox and rye bread from the nearby Josephson’s Smokehouse. Fresh-baked cookies cap off the evening. For state-of-the-art cardio (including a Peloton), visit the second floor fitness center. Other blissful perks include a mineral hot tub with river views, a traditional Finnish sauna and an onsite spa.
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
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Justin Bailie/TandemStock.com
A subtle charmer of the Oregon Coast, Yachats is the summer getaway for a serene experience.
Dive Into Yachats The charming gem of the Oregon Coast written by James Sinks
THESE DAYS, the easygoing coastal hamlet of Yachats is so idyllic that it’s called the gem of the Oregon Coast, with its rugged and tidepool-strewn shoreline, networks of trails, and inviting cluster of eateries and shops. Located between Waldport and Florence, you won’t find a gas station here, but you’ll discover art galleries, a boutique brewery and uncrowded driftwood-decorated beaches. There’s fresh seafood on-shore and, often, whales off-shore. There’s even a tiny “whale park” with a whale tail sculpture and a gentle water spout every ninety seconds, as if there is a friendly whale hiding beneath the grass to surprise the kids. The town was once listed as one of the top ten worldwide vacation destinations—alongside Paris, Bali and Kenya—by the author of Frommer’s travel guide. “The ideal spot for a stop in the course of a motoring trip along the breathtaking (and largely undeveloped) Oregon coast,” Arthur Frommer wrote in 2015. Yet Yachats hasn’t always been so charming. Some 35 million years ago, it was violent and dangerous in a geologic way, with eruptions sending lava exploding into the sea. And in the 1800s, it was a harsh place for the indigenous Alsea people that long called the region home. (The term 94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Yachatc in the native language means “where the trail leaves the beach.”) After white settlers arrived, smallpox decimated local tribes and the land was carved up for homesteads. Survivors from other coastal tribes were forcibly marched to Yachats by the Army and then, after starting farms, they were relocated again—and many of them didn’t survive that. Today, Yachats pays homage for that terrible treatment with an annual Peace Hike and a statue along Amanda’s Trail, named in honor of an elderly Coos woman who was marched barefoot and tracked her blood across the sharp rocks in the 1860s. The memorial trail ascends to the top of 800-foot-high Cape Perpetua, a dormant volcano that watches over town like a forest-shrouded sentinel, just two miles away. The name of headland—the highest spot on the Oregon Coast that you can reach by car—comes from seafaring explorer Capt. James Cook, who spotted it on March 7, 1778, on the Feast of Saint Perpetua. The perch over the Pacific served as a military lookout during World War II, and now is the centerpiece of a recreation site that lets visitors marvel at old-growth spruce and awe-inspiring basalt beach formations.
5 - 8 PM in Historic Downtown Troutdale
May - September
Fo the best of the spectacular south coast … start here
f a c eb o ok . c om /d i s c over p or torford i n st a g r am . c om /d i s c over p or torford
TravelOregon.com
Elizabeth Ann Studio Photography
Yachats Brewing
trip planner
Day HIKING • BREWS • CRAB CAKES At the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area’s visitor center, put on durable shoes and pay the $5 day use fee, if you don’t have an annual U.S. National Parks Pass. From here, head downhill on the Trail of the Restless Waters, which takes you to the ocean and Devil’s Churn, where waves slosh like a washing machine in a narrow volcanic chasm and thunder in underground caves. It’s one of three watery natural wonders in the protected area, which is part of the Siuslaw National Forest. The others are Thor’s Well (once reportedly as known as Captain Cook’s toilet), a rocky bowl that dramatically fills and empties with the surf, and—at high tide—the Spouting Horn blowhole. You can tread out on the rocks here, but always be wary of the ocean. During the Great Depression, workers in the Civilian Conservation Corps built trails, campgrounds, and a stone shelter that perches at the top of the Cape, overlooking the Pacific. On a clear day, you can see 37 miles. On any day, it’s worth checking out the view, and maybe whales below. 96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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If you’ve mountain bikes in tow, the 8.5-mile Cummins Creek Loop Trail will take you through meadows and old growth groves to ocean vistas. At Yachats Brewing + Farmstore, a quenching Black Agate Bock will hit the spot after your afternoon adventure. The place prides itself on local and fresh fare, and they also like to pickle, from kimchi to sauerkraut to, yes, pickles. If you are a vinophile, grab a bottle (or two) at Beach Daisy Wine. Nothing stays open particularly late in Yachats, which is part of the small-town charm, unless you are trying to enjoy a drink after 10 p.m. The Adobe Resort is one of several hotels in Yachats that offers direct access to the beach. The place isn’t new—it opened in 1952 with mud bricks made on the property—but the view is timeless. It perches on a basalt outcrop with the ocean on both sides, and every room looks onto the water. At upscale Ona Restaurant and Lounge, the locally sourced steak-and-seafood fare is seasonal and well-seasoned. Their Dungeness crab cakes were named the best in the state by USA Today in 2018. The view isn’t half bad, either, especially with beverages and sunlight fading on the horizon.
trip planner
FAR LEFT, TOP Smell the hops and ocean air at Yachats Brewing. FAR LEFT, BOTTOM Crab cakes at Ona Restaurant in Yachats. CENTER Hike the trail along Cape Perpetua to take in the enormous views. ABOVE Thor’s Well has its best moments at high tide.
Day COFFEE • SEA LIONS • HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE From pretty much anywhere in Yachats, it’s only steps to the Historic 804 Trail, an oceanfront footpath that extends the length of town. The path was carved centuries ago, and parts were incorporated into Road 804, the conduit between Yachats and Waldport before the Highway was built. After filling your lungs with ocean air and peeking in a tidepool or two, fuel up on organic coffee, tea, and breakfast fare at Green Salmon Coffee Co., where fun fungi art will scowl at you. This coffee spot also has metaphysical books and a legit assortment of tarot cards, in case you left yours at home. A twenty-minute drive south, the privately owned Sea Lion Caves lets you take a 180-foot elevator ride to the world’s largest sea cave, which is home to bats and sometimes hundreds of barking Stellar sea lions. From border-to-border, Oregon is a feast for the senses. To call yourself a real Oregonian, a few uniquely Oregon experiences offer—ahem—extreme sensory challenges. The taste of
mineral-rich Lithia water in Ashland, for instance, is not for the meek. In Eugene, the jet plane-evoking din of Autzen Stadium can be rough on your ears. Then there are the Sea Lion Caves. Your eyes will love it. Your nose probably won’t. After all, sea lions eat a lot of fish and dead fish don’t smell fantastic, even before they are ingested. Call ahead to see if sea lions are in the house: It’s more likely to be full during cooler months. A few miles further south is Oregon’s most-photographed lighthouse, 56-foot-tall Heceta Head. You can reach the brickand-stucco spire from the beach below at Heceta Head State Park or from the popular overgrown Hobbit Trail, through wind-sculpted Sitka Spruce. The former tenders’ house nearby is now a popular bed-and-breakfast, and some say it’s also haunted. But that’s probably just due the grumbling of hungry stomachs outside on the trail. Probably. Back in Yachats for dinner, the only thing at quirky Drift Inn Cafe that’s more fun than the diverse (and delicious) menu is the story of the circa-1929 place, with a larger-than-life amateur boxer former owner and a “partying and ignoring law tradition.” Rumor says Merry Prankster Ken Kesey penned much of his One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest at the bar. If it’s not yet 10 p.m., stroll a block to Yachats Underground Pub & Grub, where the drinks are cheap and strong, and there’s live music on Saturdays. JULY | AUGUST 2022
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YACHATS, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Drift Inn Cafe www.the-drift-inn.com Green Salmon Coffee Co. www.thegreensalmon.com Ona Restaurant & Lounge www.onarestaurant.com Yachats Brewing + Farmstore www.yachatsbrewing.com Yachats Underground Pub & Grub www.yachatsunderground.com
STAY The Adobe Resort www.adoberesort.com Heceta Lighthouse B&B www.hecetalighthouse.com Overleaf Lodge & Spa www.overleaflodge.com
PLAY Amanda Trail www.yachatstrails.org Cape Perpetua Scenic Area www.fs.usda.gov/siuslaw
Heceta Head Lighthouse, named for a Basque explorer in the 18th century, stands 1,000 feet over the Pacific while being surrounded by a salal meadow.
Sea Lion Caves www.sealioncaves.com
Day
Styx Stones ’n Bones www.facebook.com/ roadrunnerrocks
KAYAKS • BOTANICAL GARDEN • SHOPPING
Wildport Adventures www.wildportadventures.com
Bread & Roses Bakery’s “Celestial Snail”—its version of a cheese danish, with lemon curd, fresh fruit and a dusting of powdered sugar.
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If the sound of the surf inspires you to get onto the water, it’s just a short ten-minute drive north to Waldport and Alsea Bay. No boats? No worries. Wildport Adventures will bring the rental kayaks and stand-up paddle boards to you. A number of trails crisscross Yachats but there’s only one with giant Asian rhododendrons and Brazilian swamp plants with 7-foot leaves. That would be the Gerdemann Botanical Garden, where a narrow path weaves through a lush hidden preserve of unusual plants collected over thirty years by a former university professor and his wife. As a bonus, the trail ends at a trio of art galleries. Like the rest of the city, the four-block shopping district along Highway 101 packs a lot of impressive into a small spot. You’ll find hours’ worth of potential retail therapy, from vintage garb and bookstores to saltwater taffy to freshly caught fish. There’s a farmers’ market on summer Sundays. At Judith’s Kitchen Tools, which is about as big as your pantry, you’ll often find spritely JULY | AUGUST 2022
80-year-old Judith MacDonald, who started the business after she retired and has no plans to quit. “The alternative to getting old is not very pleasant,” she said with a laugh. Around the corner at Bread & Roses Bakery, there’s the aroma of espresso in the air and often a line out the door. If they haven’t sold out, try the fresh-fruit-topped “snail tarts.” The lemony and buttery shortbread cookies have been coined “sand dollars.” And, from the category of unsurprising discoveries, the city known as the Gem of the Oregon Coast has a doozy of a rock and gem shop. At Styx Stones and Bones, the owners have collected glittery rainbows of agates, moonstones, and quartz from across the globe. There’s a 13-foot-long model of a T-Rex skeleton named Betty, and also a water flume outside where you can pan for gemstones for $5. Owner Marc Taylor, who grew up nearby and moved back as an adult with his family, said the town has always been the sort of place that people—once they discover it—can’t get enough of. “Yachats” he said, “is magic.”
Taste the Difference!
Our crabbers are stewards of the sea; which is why we practice sustainable harvesting across our fleet, ensuring the flavor of Oregon continues for generations to come.
Support Hard Working Oregon Fishermen oregondungeness.org
northwest destination
Flavors of the Far East abound on the Dumpling Trail in Richmond, BC.
Tourism Richmond
Richmond, BC Immerse yourself in Chinese culture written by James Sinks
THE CANADIAN CITY of Richmond, located just south of Vancouver BC, sits a mere three feet above sea level. So, like other major low-lying locales, the place guards against flooding with dikes and pump stations—which here can expel 1.4 million gallons every minute. Yet Richmond has long welcomed a flood of a different sort: The city of 210,000 has attracted waves of migrants from across the Pacific, and today the former farming and fishing community boasts North America’s highest concentration of people who identify as Chinese, at 53 percent. Three quarters of the population is of Asian descent. As a result, just a twenty-five-minute drive from the U.S. border, you can immerse in the vibrant culture and rich flavors of the Far East, from dim sum to spicy hotpots to karaoke. The New York Times in 2018 declared that the unassuming city had the “best Chinese food in North America.” 100
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(You don’t even need to drive to get here: From Vancouver’s International Airport, it’s only four elevated train stops to Richmond’s mall-filled Chinese district, known as Golden Village.) The dizzying array of Chinese restaurants— there are hundreds dotting the map—can admittedly be a little intimidating. If you like dumplings with your chopsticks, though, you’re in a bit more luck. A “Dumpling Trail” highlights fifteen top local spots for lovers of the delicate filled-dough pouches. At Fisherman’s Terrace Seafood Restaurant, you can even get your shrimp dumplings deep fried. Weekend nights from May to October, you won’t want to miss the Richmond Night Market, the largest Asian night market on the continent. Here, $6 gets you into a buzzing bazaar of vendors, entertainers and street food
RICHMOND, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Photos: Tourism Richmond
northwest destination
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Biking along the boardwalk in Richmond. Richmond’s night market is abuzz with food and retail vendors. At Steveston Fishing Village, you will encounter (and love) Pajo’s floating fish and chips stand.
booths serving up fare from stuffed crab claws to wonton nachos to barbecue. There are also roving characters like dinosaurs because, you know, Instagram. Richmond sits on an island in the Fraser River delta and, prior to the arrival of Europeans in the 1800s, it was home to seasonal settlements of the Coast Salish people. The rich soil attracted farmers, and plentiful salmon runs lured Japanese fishermen. More recently, the immigration surge has been from Hong Kong, plus mainland China. There’s more to Richmond than Chinese food, but let’s face it, if that’s all you’re here for, nobody is going to judge. The city offers more than 100 miles of paths and trails, 145 parks, and several golf links. Enjoy exploring on two wheels? Follow the Bike the Dyke trail route along the coastline. Rainy outside? The former ice racing oval from the 2010 Winter Olympics has been repurposed into an indoor multi-sport facility. For a journey of the spiritual sort, head to the “Highway to Heaven” where more than twenty churches and temples welcome visitors and coexist peacefully on the same street. Also
nearby is the sprawling International Buddhist Society complex, modeled after Beijing’s fabled Forbidden City, where you can meditate, get your fortune read, explore pond-filled gardens, and lunch at renowned vegetarian restaurant Taste of Zen. On the southwest waterfront is the historic Steveston Fishing Village, home to a boardwalk, preserved cannery and shipyard, a popular (and floating) fish and chips stand, and a Fisherman’s Wharf where you can buy fresh-caught seafood from the dock. If it looks vaguely familiar, the village was the setting for the television show Once Upon a Time. Like animals? Richmond parks are rife with rabbits, whale watching tours depart daily from Steveston and, on weekends, you can buy tickets to Canada’s largest house cat sanctuary, where once-homeless felines live out their days in patios and gardens without fear of euthanization. West of the fishing village, trails meander through waterfront Garry Point Park, where you can relax, watch the sun set lazily over the Pacific, and figure out which Chinese restaurants will be serving your dinner. JULY | AUGUST 2022
EAT Chef Tony www.cheftonycanada.com Dumpling Trail www.visitrichmondbc.com/ food-drink/the-dumpling-trail Fisherman’s Terrace Seafood Restaurant www.fishermansterrace.com Kirin Restaurant www.kirinrestaurants.com Pajo’s Fish and Chips www.pajos.com Taste of Zen www.buddhisttemple.ca/ taste-of-zen
STAY Radisson Hotel Vancouver Airport www.radissonhotels americas.com River Rock Casino Resort www.riverrock.com Versante Hotel www.versantehotel.com
PLAY Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site www.facebook.com/ britshipyards Fisherman’s Wharf www.stevestonharbour.com/ fishermans-wharf International Buddhist Temple www.buddhisttemple.ca Regional Animal Protection Society Cat Sanctuary www.rapsbc.com/cat-sanctuary Richmond Night Market www.richmondnightmarket.com Richmond trail system www.richmond.ca/parks/ overview.htm Vancouver Whale Watch www.vancouverwhalewatch.com
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
20 Westfir Lodge & Mountain Market
58 Biomotum
86
Thomas Condon Paleontology Center
28 Oregon Wine Experience
60 Oregon State’s Reser Stadium
88
Upper Klamath Canoe Trail
30 The Salmonberry
60 University of Oregon’s PK Park
92
Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa
32 Mecca Grade Estate Malt
62 The Times-Journal
94
Cape Perpetua Scenic Area
52 Quintana Galleries
64 Santiam Canyon Wildfire Relief Fund
100 Richmond, BC
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Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or find one at DiscoverTheForest.org.
Until Next Time Waves meet sand in Brookings. photo by F. David Green (@ocularera)
