A Dreamy Cabin Makeover
TRIP PLANNER: PORT ORFORD PG. 80
Oregon Chefs’ Garlic Recipes
A Portland Filmmaker’s Opus
5 S U M M I TS Plan Your Adventure Now
HOW
OREGON SMALL BUSINESSES PIVOTED TO SURVIVE THE PANDEMIC
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volume 67
You don’t have to go to the depths of the ocean to be a discoverer. Or produce one of the world’s first maps of the ocean floor, like Marie Tharp, a pioneering geologist and cartographer whose important work helped bring to life the unknown ocean world. You just have to chart your course to Discovery West. Nestled in Bend’s Westside, this community is alive with the spirit of discovery. Not to mention proximity to schools, parks, close-by trails and more. Visit discoverywestbend.com to learn about the neighborhood, Marie herself – and how you could even find your new home on Tharp Avenue. Or head on over to our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane and map out your future.
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Cornerstones TRACKING OREGON’S PROGRESS ECONOMIC MOBILITY
and B E L O N G I N G I N O R E G O N
For the first time in U.S. history, young adults are less likely to earn more than their parents, shattering the timehonored belief that if you work hard, you’ll prosper. Family circumstances, educational experiences, race and ethnicity and a ZIP code all play a significant role on a child’s ability to get ahead — determining the rest of their life. To find out how a ZIP code impacts opportunity, download OCF’s newly-released report, “Cornerstones: Economic Mobility and Belonging in Oregon,” and learn about ways to advance economic mobility for future generations of Oregonians.
V I S I T O R E G O N C F.O R G / T O P 2 0 2 0 T O D I S C O V E R K E Y A R E A S O F I N V E S TM E N T A N D P O L I C Y C H A N G E N E E D E D TO C R E AT E RESEARCH
MORE HIGH OPPORTUNIT Y NEIGHBORHOODS IN OREGON. O R E G O N C F.O R G / T O P 202 0
Pop-up Paragons photography by Emily Joan Greene From Vietnamese comfort food to a chocolate wonderland, O.G. Asian classics and a BIPOC-focused Mexican coffee shop, pivots and pop-ups reveal the depth of creativity among Portland’s culinary entrepreneurs. (pg. 62)
FROM LEFT Pops of color illuminate Cloudforest’s new Hot Chocolate Pop Up. Mama Dút, launched in November in Portland, serves up Vietnamese vegan food.
MARCH | APRIL 2021
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 5
FEATURES
Ice Lake is a crowning jewel of a trek past a few waterfalls in the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
MARCH | APRIL 2021 • volume 67
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62
Premier Pivots
PDX Chefs’ Creative Moment
Throughout the state, small businesses, many of them family owned, have had to draw deep on their leadership skills and ingenuity to survive the shutdowns and chaos of Covid. An artisan maker of leather handbags, a pair of high-end hotels and a fishing dock tour guide are among the case studies in creativity.
Portland’s food scene, already known for its creativity, goes to the next level with fun, resourceful and delicious pop-ups and more during the pandemic. written and photographed by Emily Joan Greene
written by Kevin Max
50 Do Some Sky-scraping Our volcanic landscape is calling. Now is the time to answer. We’ve chosen five peaks to summit around the state, from easy to difficult, with expert tips on how to prepare.
Adam Sawyer
written by Cathy Carroll
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DEPARTMENTS MARCH | APRIL 2021 • volume 67
LIVE 14 NOTEBOOK
What drove Suzy Vitello to craft her new novel about a family, separated by secrets and resentment, suddenly working together to survive in Portland after the big earthquake hits?
24
20 FOOD + DRINK
Best places for dining and drinking outdoors, a fabulous pivot from a James Beard award-winning chef and the most creative, delicious waffle creations around the state.
24 FARM TO TABLE
Garlic isn’t just a vampire repellent anymore. Find out why it’s one farmer’s favorite crop—and ingredient—and why roasting it makes it (and you) the hero of this soup to make at home.
30 HOME + DESIGN
Dreaming of a cabin on a lake in a national forest? Follow the tale of demolishing and rebuilding one that was the first of its kind. Plus, everyone looks great in warm and inviting lighting if you do it right and adding touches of modern rustic style.
36 MIND + BODY Emily Green
Discover one of the most accessible, cost-free wellness solutions, why it’s on the rise, and the science behind the benefits.
38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Portland’s Elijah Hasan had just finished curating and editing a five-and-a-half hour video tribute to Martin Luther King Jr., when he realized the most important thing he needed to create next.
38
76
THINK 42 STARTUP
A smart pivot energized Tigard’s OpConnect on the eve of the coming electric-vehicle global surge.
44 WHAT’S GOING UP
Getting outdoors is more important than ever. Four new parks open amid a pandemic and one is Portland’s first to be named for a Black woman. A career coach and college professor takes on the Mrs. Oregon pageant, with an eye toward empowering women to reach their potential.
Momentum River Expeditions
Elijah Hasan
45 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
46 MY WORKSPACE
A Corvallis-based collaboration between University of Oregon and Oregon State University is the nation’s first and only one of its kind in wood-product building solutions.
48 GAME CHANGER
Pivoting from preserving culture to surviving a disaster, locals along their “60-mile Main Street” prove that they are #McKenzieStrong.
10 11 86 88
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
EXPLORE 74 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Only those who know to ask get to do a whiskey scavenger hunt through the dark nooks and crannies of an old hotel in Burns.
76 ADVENTURE
Awaken your soul with a river adventure. Some of Oregon’s most experienced guides and outfitters help you plan it now.
78 LODGING
Check into a modern, sleek-style Airstream and let nostalgia infuse a getaway in Pacific City.
80 TRIP PLANNER COVER
photo by Ben Helmer Cascade Head (see Peak Moments, pg. 50)
Explore towering cliffs above the Pacific, go kayaking, and do some scenic or epic cycling before rewarding yourself with craft cocktails and fresh seafood in this westernmost coastal spot.
84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
On the northern tip of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, Sequim, Washington, is a perfectly quaint base for adventures in Olympic National Park and more.
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CONTRIBUTORS
MOLLY ALLEN Writer Northwest Destination As an avid hiker and a frequent road-tripper, I am continually enamored with small towns across the Pacific Northwest. It was so rewarding to dive deeper on quaint Sequim, Washington, and share the charms of this spot on the Olympic Peninsula, from kayaking and biking along the Pacific shoreline, exploring the wild coastline’s sandy beaches and tide pools, to savoring local eats, from oysters to linguine with clams. (pg. 84)
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LAUREN SHARP Writer Lodging, Dining and Gastronomy Growing up in Portland, I became well versed in the local food scene early in life, and my passion for food and culture grew while living in the Swiss Alps pursuing my degree in French studies. I’m revelling in being back in Oregon and covering how restaurateurs are finding ways to thrive, creating everything from a James Beard award-winning establishment’s new market, to savory and sweet waffle cafés and food carts. (pg. 22)
MARCH | APRIL 2021
CHRIS MURRAY Photographer Travel Spotlight
EMILY JOAN GREENE Photographer Switching Gears
Although there was a huge snowstorm moving through Oregon, I jumped at the chance to photograph a private whiskey collection at a historic place in Burns called the Central Hotel. In order to take in the vibe, I overnighted in one of the smaller rooms. Staying at that hotel was like stepping back in time to the early 1900s, but with modern amenities. I will definitely return. (pg. 74)
This is a momentous time in the restaurant industry, and I wanted to capture how businesses have pivoted and came up with creative solutions during the pandemic. Venturing out of our homes to get something to eat is one of the few activities we’re able to do, and it is my hope that our community continues to support local businesses as much as they possibly can. (pg. 62)
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
SALES ASSISTANT
HOMEGROWN CHEF
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Elijah Aikens Thor Erickson Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Molly Allen, Melissa Dalton, Jack Demming, Chet Evers, Eric Flowers, Shirley A. Hancock, Sophia McDonald, Ben Salmon, Lauren Sharp
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Emily Green, Emily Joan Greene, Ben Helmer, Ronald Hope, Tambi Lane, Chris Murray, Ian Stout
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MARCH | APRIL 2021
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 9
FROM THE
EDITOR-AT-LARGE WELCOME TO THE 2021 Outdoors issue. This couldn’t come at a better time, when we are all shaking off 2020 and heeding the call of the epic outdoors. We begin with a few places and challenges for everyone who feels the need to satisfy a long-burning desire. In Peak Moments on pg. 50, we lay down five attainable summits of peaks across the state that you’ll want to get after this spring or fall, depending on snow levels. In Trip Planner on pg. 80, come with us to the westernmost point in Oregon—the beautiful and austere Cape Blanco in Port Orford. The southern Oregon Coast benefits from the Brookings effect, which keeps it warmer in spring than its northern coast cousins, too. Still restless? Pack the car and head to the Olympic Peninsula and Sequim, a charming base from which to explore the surrounding green and blue of the Olympic National Forest and the Sequim Bay off the Salish Sea (Fjord to Forest, pg. 84). Stories of survival ensue on pg. 56, where we talk with five small business owners or managers about the moment and courage that led to essential business pivots to get them through the economic turmoil of the pandemic. End this issue and your pandemic lockdown with something inspiring. Elijah Hasan, a filmmaker and educator, wraps up his five-plus hour video tribute to Martin Luther King, Jr. “I had tears in my eyes—there was so much soul,” he said of seeing archival footage of Portlanders performing in honor of the civil rights leader (pg. 38). End ironically with Last Year’s Man, Tyler Fortier from Eugene, who gives us a new folk album, Brave the Storm, that itself feels like a placid release from last year. Turn to pg. 16, read and scan the code.
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HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/ postcard photo by Patricia Kolberg Kayakers at Steelhead Falls in Central Oregon.
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A NEW WAY TO SHOP LOCAL
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Welcome to Local, a curated shop of cool goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest, NEW from 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop
MARCH | APRIL 2021
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NOTEBOOK 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 36
pg. 30 Demolishing and rebuilding a storied cabin brought challenges and big rewards.
Loren Nelson
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38
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Jenny Graham
Tidbits + To-dos
Cascade Brewing
Oregon Shakespeare Festival
Cascade Brewing’s new releases include Cosmosaic, which aims to bring hoppy harmony to the cosmic complexity of sour beer. The sour blond ale is aged in oak barrels for up to ten months followed by a late addition of Mosaic hops. The ale comes in at 4.4 percent alcohol by volume and in 12-ounce cosmic cans. The Blueberry 2020 is a blend of sour triple and blond ales aged in pinot noir barrels for up to two years, with fresh blueberries from the Willamette Valley.
To whet your appetite for a live season this fall, Oregon Shakespeare Festival is streaming Chinese and Native American works as well as a classic from the Bard. Tickets are $15 for “Snow in Midsummer,” “Manahatta” or “Julius Caesar.” Free films, performances from the archives, workshops, classes and LGBTQ and BIPOC resources are on the site, too. Live performances are posted for fall through December with dates pending.
www.cascadebrewingbarrelhouse.com
www.osfashland.org
Oregon Coast Aquarium The Oregon Coast Aquarium is seeking to build an admissions annex and remodel and expand its entry, great hall and café. The Oregon-based Marcia H. Randall Foundation is matching gifts and pledges toward the campaign if made by March 31, up to $500,000. The funds help the nonprofit aquarium give more 30,000 students a year the chance to learn about the importance of the ocean and its habitat. www.givetoaquarium.org
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notebook
Pantone and Chown
The new Stoller Wine Bar in Bend is the first Stoller venue beyond wine country. It’s the place to sip more than forty wines from Stoller Family Estate and the company’s other brands, Chehalem, Chemistry, Canned Oregon, and History, plus cider and beer on tap. Nosh on cheese, charcuterie and an expanded menu soon. Or, go in the other direction with Riff Cold Brewed coffees and carbon-neutral natural energy drinks, which were launched in Bend and formerly occupied the space at The Box Factory.
The Pantone Institute, forecaster of global color trends, has declared that two colors are setting the tone for 2021. The colors “ultimate gray” and “illuminating” convey strength and hopefulness, according to the company. Evoking an enduring and uplifting mood, the colors are popping up in clever designs. Sonneman’s proton alpha LED pendant and the morii LED wall lamp are two examples, found at retailers around Oregon including Chown in Portland.
www.stollerwinegroup.com
www.chown.com
Stoller Wine Bar
Giulietti’s Italian Bakery Ever since architect Dave Giulietti moved to Portland from Queens, N.Y., forty years ago, he’s been missing the traditional, handmade, Italian cookies of his youth. He solved the problem by opening Giulietti’s Italian Bakery with his son, Dominic Giulietti, crafting beloved cookies such as pignoli, almond-based with pine nuts; baci di dama, hazelnut with chocolate filling, and more flavors that will transport you to New York’s Italian neighborhoods instantaneously— delivered to your home or business. www.gibpdx.com
MARCH | APRIL 2021
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notebook
Musician
Braving the Storm
As “Last Year’s Man,” Eugene’s Tyler Fortier is making lush, twangy music for himself again written by Ben Salmon TEN YEARS AGO, Tyler Fortier released three albums in a year and toured across the Western U.S. As a talented songwriter and compelling performer, he seemed poised to be one of Oregon’s next breakout stars. While breakout stardom never quite happened for Fortier, it’s also fair to say the Eugene-based artist intentionally left the path he was on, choosing instead to follow one that’s longer and less direct but ultimately just as fulfilling. “That seems like a lifetime ago,” he said. “After (that), I started shifting focus to working on other songwriters’ projects. I wanted to be on the road less. It was never really that sustainable for me.” Instead, Fortier began producing records for like-minded contemporaries such as Anna Tivel, Beth Wood, John Shipe and Jeffrey Martin. Secondly, he dipped his toe into the world of writing music for television and film. Producing “scratched a similar itch” compared with his solo career, he said, and the latter helped pay the bills. Along the way, he worked Listen on Spotify to hone his skills as a composer by tightening Tyler Fortier writes music for TV, film his focus and learning from his mistakes. and as a solo artist. In 2018, with his confidence boosted by the TV and film work, Fortier began to feel an urge to hold on to some of his songs and release them himself rather than license them to others. He followed an instinct to distance himself from his own and all the other stuff that hapname and started writing and recording as Last Year’s Man, a pens in between. reference to the title of a Leonard Cohen song. For Fortier, producing records Fortier said, “Once I had the name, it seemed real, and I and writing for TV and film remade a goal to release an album,” he said. “Why? I’m not totally main the priority, whereas his sure. It just feels good to create.” work as Last Year’s Man “feels like Anyone familiar with Fortier’s solo work will be unsurprised the missing piece,” he said. If a show or movie comes to learn that Last Year’s Man debut album, Brave the Storm, re- calling for one of its tracks, all the better. (A Dutch fishing proleased last November, is full of warm and beautiful songs that gram recently used “No Eye on the Sparrow,” for example.) live near the intersection of indie-folk and Americana. Just as And if they don’t? Well, that’s OK, too. he was a decade ago, Fortier is a master at bringing together “I guess I would hope that someone who listens to Brave the lush, twangy instrumental arrangements, memorable melo- Storm feels something like I feel when I listen to music,” he said. dies and thoughtful lyrics that explore life’s trials and triumphs “I don’t really have any expectations beyond that.” 16
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OREGON PARKS
FOREVER
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This year marks 100 years since our grand Promenade first graced our beachfront. So come help us celebrate! The views are spectacular and it offers easy access to kite flying, tandem biking, trail hiking, river kayaking and beach frolicking. Oh, and be sure to pick up the Centennial Booklet full of treasure hunts, trivia, and four chances to win an epic Seaside getaway.
everyone needs to experience the prom!
SeasideProm.com
Bibliophile
Suzy Vitello, a stalwart of Portland’s literary community, is gaining praise from literary figures for her latest novel, Faultland.
Siblings, Shaken Portland novelist imagines the “big one” and a family united by survival interview by Cathy Carroll
THE “BIG ONE,” the earthquake which scientists predict could strike the Northwest at any moment, is what Suzy Vitello leverages in her new novel, Faultland, which follows three siblings working together to survive disaster in Portland. If resources don’t run out, if sickness doesn’t overtake them, if alt-right militias don’t converge and if the wet mass of land speeding toward their childhood home and makeshift shelter doesn’t bury them, they’ll have to navigate past traumas and the mistakes of their parents to survive as a family. Literary figures praising the book include Portlander Lidia Yuknavitch, author of the nationally acclaimed and bestselling novel The Book of Joan. She said Faultland “is about our collective resilience and the loyalty that holds us all together in the end.” Oregonians will no doubt savor this distinctly Portland book from Vitello, a stalwart of the city’s literary community who runs writers’ workshops and has worked with authors such as Chuck Palahniuk and Cheryl Strayed. A devoted Timbers and Thorns fan, she lives in Portland, with her husband, their dog and occasionally one or more of their five kids. 18
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What first inspired you to write Faultland? I moved to Portland in September 1989, right before the Loma Prieta quake in the Bay Area. Social service agencies in Portland mobilized with donations of blankets and coats and money for the victims, and shortly after that there was widespread speculation about Portland’s readiness for a similar seismic event. Lots of, ‘What if we had an earthquake of that magnitude here?’ Then, there was the early morning spring break quake in 1993. I lived in an old woodframe house, and the shaking was horrific. I was a single mom of two young kids, and I’ll never forget running into their bedrooms screaming, panicking to get us all outside. That quake was a 5.6 and the epicenter was well south of Portland, so from that time forward I became obsessed with the possibility of the ‘big one’ shifting the ground beneath a city largely built on liquefiable soil. Who was your favorite character in the novel and why? I love this question! And when I ponder it, I have to say that I consider my three point-of-view characters, who happen to be siblings, as my work children. You’ve heard the expression work wife? It’s like that. Can’t really pick a favorite, per se, but I do love them differently.
MORE ONLINE
Early drafts set Morgan up to be the main character, but somewhere along the line one of the developmental editors at Ooligan (Press) pointed out that Olivia was the character experiencing the most profound change, and perhaps I should home in on her a bit more. Olivia was the most fun to write, I’ll admit. At the start of the book, she’s mouthy and entitled and brash. I think writing into her outrages was great sport, and possibly a bit passive aggressive on my part—as it invited me to hammer out my resentments of the ‘Karen’ type personality. The sanctimonious, selfabsorbed white woman who goes through life filtering all events through a lens of selfcentered privilege. What is your writing process like? I’m a binge writer. Because my bread-and-butter job is as a freelance book coach and editor, I’m usually too deeply involved with my clients’ work to maintain an everyday relationship with my own pages. That said, when a story grabs me, I have to see it through, and will schedule time to get it out in, what I call, zero draft form before setting it aside for months in order to reenter in more of an editor mode. Ask my poor husband! Once I’m hooked I bury myself in my tiny office hours each day, and I’m horrible to be around.
Read what’s next for Suzy Vitello and more at www.1859oregonmagazine. com/think-oregon/art-culture/suzy-vitello
HOOD RIVER
Visit our website to make an appointment or shop online 717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Ahh...spring! You can now shop online, or book an appointment to visit for fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work. We also buy.
MUSEUM FROM HOME
Exhibits, talks, and family fun—now online! Stay connected and stay curious about Oregon’s past, present, and future.
mnch.uoregon.edu
MENS • WOMENS • CLOTHING • SHOES • TEXTILES
food + drink
Beerlandia
Talia Jean Galvin/Terminal Gravity Brew Pub
Patio Beers
Crux Fermentation Project
THE TWO SWEETEST words in the English language just might be “patio beers.” With the right group of buddies and a sun-soaked deck, a plain old pale ale or basic bitter can be elevated to a near religious experience. (In-the-shower beers have been known to exhibit similar traits.) Fortunately, our state is flush with outstanding outdoor beer-drinking options. Here are some of our favorites: TERMINAL GRAVITY BREW PUB Enterprise
How many people have planned hiking trips to the Wallowas, in large part so they can have cool-down beers in the park-like setting at Terminal Gravity? Grab a picnic table, order a pint and some food, and plan your next great adventure in Eastern Oregon.
CRUX FERMENTATION PROJECT Bend
It blows the mind to think how this former AAMCO transmission shop in the heart of a light industrial area has transformed into a premier outdoor imbibing spot in Central Oregon. Crux’s expansive lawn, with fire pits, cornhole and picnic tables make random Saturdays feel like a mini brew festival. The sunsets are spectacular from the brewery’s slightly elevated perch in the middle of town, and the beers are some of the best in Oregon.
Cocktail Card
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Terminal Gravity Brew Pub, a cool respite in Enterprise. Alesong Brewing & Blending’s bucolic setting. Crux Fermentation Project’s sprawling lawn.
Alesong Brewing & Blending
written by Beau Eastes
ALESONG BREWING & BLENDING
TWENTY FIRST AVE KITCHEN & BAR
We love Alesong’s new bar at 5th Street Market, but our heart will always be with their brewery 20 miles southwest of the city in Willamette Valley wine country. Brewery tours and beer pairings at this country pub offer a Tuscany-like environment at the base of the sprawling King Estate Winery. Make an appointment if you’re not a member of the brewery’s Blender’s Circle, because it’s undoubtedly one of Oregon’s best tasting experiences.
If you’re looking for an outdoor oasis in the middle of the city, pop into 21st Avenue in northwest Portland and head to this back patio with four decks, a pond, music and non-smoking section.
Eugene
Portland
SOLARA BREWERY Parkdale
Is this heaven? No, it’s a brewery outside of Hood River with awe-inspiring views of Mount Hood. Yes, it’s worth a day trip from Portland. Or Bend. Or Ontario.
recipe courtesy of Camp 1805 craft distillery, Hood River
• 1½ ounces Mt. Hood • ½ ounce lemon juice Vodka • ½ ounce simple syrup • ½ ounce blood-orange • 1½ ounces sparkling puree or fresh wine blood-orange juice
French 1805
Add ingredients to shaker, add ice and shake for 15 seconds. Strain into coup or champagne flute, and top with sparkling wine.
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food + drink
CRAVINGS: WAFFLES SMAAKEN Born out of the Dutch tradition, Smaaken offers rustic waffles made with organic, heirloom varietal wheat grown in the Willamette valley. The menu is full of savory egg breakfast sandwiches along with vegetarian and vegan options such as the “Portlander,” with vegan sausage and spiced apples, for a standout take on the classic. 1080 SE MADISON ST. PORTLAND
Ripe Cooperative brings Beast to you.
PROUST COFFEE
Gastronomy
Ripe Cooperative written by Lauren Sharp IF YOU’VE TURNED into a beast longing for the kind of dining experiences that have made Portland famous, you can now be tamed. Chef Naomi Pomeroy’s James Beard award-winning restaurant, Beast, can come to you via her latest endeavor, Ripe Cooperative. To say this past year has not been kind to the restaurant industry is an understatement. A veteran in the Portland food scene, Pomeroy was forced to shut down at the onset of the pandemic due to seating restrictions. Following the closure, Pomeroy and other former Beast kitchen staff brainstormed how to pivot while retaining their core values of offering exquisite, sustainably sourced food. Rather than jumping on the take-out bandwagon, Pomeroy and team transformed Beast’s space into Ripe Cooperative, a community marketplace offering four-course preset menus and artisan pantry goods. “Necessity is the mother of invention—it’s a complicated world, so being creative is imperative,” said Pomeroy. “We wanted to build something that really made sense to us.” You can order meal boxes or à la carte menu items online for curbside pickup. Each box is made to order and features seasonal items from local farms for dishes such as duck leg confit with coco bianco barbecue beans and demi-glace. Or, for instance, there’s the celery root soubise and mountain cheese cappelletti with scallion sauce verte and a dessert of pistachio cake with grapefruit curd, crème fraiche, cardamom and snickerdoodle ice cream. Pomeroy recognizes the changing trends in home cooking and helps inspire home chefs to step out of their comfort zone, “People have learned a lot in the pandemic and have gotten more empowered in the kitchen,” she said. “Take for example the resurgence of sourdough bread.” The trend influenced her decision to add step-by-step instructions and videos with each prepared meal box to guide the seasoned home chef as well as neophytes. www.ripecooperative.com
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4350 SW ROSE BIGGI AVE. BEAVERTON www.smaaken.com
MARCH | APRIL 2021
Lauren Blackwelder had a dream of bringing to Redmond a coffeehouse that featured great coffee and delicious traditional Liège waffles. She opened Proust Coffee in 2016. In 2017, Joe Puentes, a coffee fanatic and customer, bought the business and built on the foundation of fresh coffee and waffles made daily—rich, intense and with the faint crunch of specialty sugar from Belgium. Enjoy them in-house or to go. 235 SW 6TH ST. REDMOND www.proustcoffee.com
OOBLIES WAFFLE FOOD TRUCK An Ooblie is a waffle-made sandwich, and this bright orange food truck showcases savory waffle sandwiches along with a selection of sweet options such as fresh berries and Nutella. You won’t leave hungry with dishes such as the Southern BBQ featuring home-fried chicken, twice-fried jalapenos and melted havarti cheese. 325 S. RIVERSIDE AVE. MEDFORD www.ooblie.com
THE LAZY SUSAN CAFÉ Unwind with a seaside brunch in Cannon Beach. Waffles are served all day and feature rotating seasonal ingredients. Delight in the quaint rustic charm of this converted singlefamily beach house with a warm oatmeal waffle topped with a scoop of fresh fruit and dollop of homemade whipped cream. 126 N. HEMLOCK ST. CANNON BEACH www.thelazysusancafe.com
BEST PLACES FOR
DINE OUTSIDE Revel in the simplicity of handcrafted pastas, rustic pizzas and fresh produce at The Gold Room in Joseph. After a winter hiatus, the space reopens March 11. Savor an Italian pinot bianco and order this pizza: potato, leek, ricotta, roasted leek cream, aged mozzarella and lemon oil—almost as stunning as the Wallowas. 100 N. MAIN ST., UNIT B JOSEPH www.goldroompizza.com
Josh Chang
THE GOLD ROOM
Brooks Winery dishes with handpicked ingredients pair perfectly with their reislings and pinots.
Dining
Brooks Winery
EEM PDX
written by Lauren Sharp
One of Portland’s beloved southeast-Asian inspired destinations, it’s famous for combining the flavors of Thailand, Texas barbecue and tropical libations. Eem now offers outdoor cabana seating, each with a smokeless fire centerpiece to complete the vacation vibe. Transport yourself with the fan favorite, white curry with Matt’s BBQ brisket burnt ends. Get religion with Eem’s lime fro-yo “Jesus and Tequila” cocktail.
THE PANDEMIC may have forced patio season to blossom early, but the real, balmier one is well on its way. That makes it the perfect time to get lost in wine country and even better, to find yourself at Brooks Winery in Amity. Brooks offers juicy rieslings and bright pinot noirs with curated culinary pairings in the verdant landscape of the Eola-Amity Hills. Founding winemaker Jimi Brooks had traveled the world apprenticing at wineries before settling in Oregon, where he made it his mission to craft expressive, complex and balanced riesling and high-acid pinot noirs. This dream almost came to a screeching halt with Brooks’ unexpected death in 2004. His sister, Janie Brooks Heuck, stepped in as managing director and continued her brother’s legacy by producing sustainable, food friendly wines in a warm, inviting atmosphere. In 2014, Brooks Winery expanded on this vision with a new tasting room. Heuck said its design, with multiple indoor and outdoor seating areas, served a vision. “We wanted to cultivate a community gathering place, where guests can enjoy our wines, but also beer, cider and food,” Heuck said. Food pairings, a natural next-step, began with hiring executive chef Norma Buchholz in 2016. Buchholz had previously worked at Tina’s Restaurant in Dundee and embraced Brooks’ mission of crafting cuisine based on local, biodynamically farmed produce. She often handpicks ingredients for the winery’s monthly tasting menu from crops grown on the property and transforms them into elevated comfort classics. For instance, a garlic grilled cheese sandwich had delicate, creamy Cantal jeune and extra sharp cheddars melting along the edges of golden, crisp bread. It all but demanded to be dipped in the house-made creamy tomato bisque and savored with sips of a 2017 Muska riesling, its flinty-nose terroir and citrusy notes creating a perfect counterpoint on the palate. Buchholz’s lemon-scented rapini, crispy pork belly and granny Smith apple purée paired perfectly with a 2017 bois joli riesling. The grounds are home to several “pet” chickens, and Buchholz will use their eggs, but insisted, never for meat. That hasn’t stopped her, however, from putting on the March menu a banh mi sandwich of crunchy, fried chicken breast with jalapenos and garlic aioli, a beautiful match for the month’s tasting flights highlighting their 2017 Sweet P Riesling. Stay tuned as Heuck and Buchholz plan to create more food and wine pairings throughout spring and summer.
3808 N. WILLIAMS AVE., SUITE 127 PORTLAND www.eempdx.com
SOLSTICE WOOD FIRE CAFE & BAR After a day out on the water or the trail, bite into a fresh slice of brick-oven pizza at Solstice’s waterfront patio. With tables nestled between neat stacks of firewood, experience the flavors of ingredients sourced from the Columbia River Gorge. Don’t skip out on the signature Country Girl Cherry Pie pizza with local cherries, house-made chorizo sausage and goat cheese. 501 PORTWAY AVE. HOOD RIVER www.solsticewoodfirecafe.com
21101 SE CHERRY BLOSSOM LANE AMITY www.brookswine.com
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farm to table
Garlic from Crater Lake Farm near Chiloquin.
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farm to table
Mason and Marzena Terry with their 9-month-old daughter, Mia, at their 1/8-acre plot of garlic.
Farm to Table
Spring Bulbs Garlic loves Oregon, and the feeling is mutual written by Sophia McDonald | photography by Emily Green WHEN MASON AND MARZENA TERRY were ready to trade the noise and traffic of Silicon Valley for the calm and quiet of rural Oregon, they went searching for a place where they could keep horses and start a small farm. With busy careers at the Oregon Institute of Technology, they knew they couldn’t convert their 50 acres near Chiloquin to a full-time horticultural operation. After looking into a few different options, they settled on growing a low-maintenance culinary staple, garlic. A favorite of home gardeners as well, this bulbous plant of the allium family has provided the Terrys with the satisfying side hustle they originally sought. It has a few specific requirements: the crops must be rotated to different plots on the farm to help avoid disease, and be fertilized, watered and weeded regularly. Other than that, it’s low-maintenance, from planting in the fall to
harvest in summer. “The only thing that really eats it around here is pocket gophers,” said Mason Terry. “Everything else avoids it. It’s very easy to grow. You put it in the ground and it pops up.” On a 1/8-acre parcel at Crater Lake Garlic Farm—a place with soil made rich and fertile by long-ago volcanic eruptions—about 15,000 plants are just beginning to shoot their long green stems out of the ground. The underground bulbs will continue to develop until July, when the garlic is mature and ready for harvesting. At that time, the Terrys will hook a horizontal blade called a bed lifter onto the back of their tractor and use it to cut the bulbs at the roots. With the roots severed and the soil loosened, they go back through the field and pull the garlic from the ground. They knock off the dirt, tie the plants together at the tops and hang
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farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT An old Ford tractor catches the sun at Crater Lake Farm. Mason Terry pauses in the Crater Lake Farm barn. The Terrys’ homemade tool measures garlic bulbs, helping to determine whether they will be sold as fresh culinary garlic, in bulk for cooking or as seed garlic.
them in their barn to cure for a few weeks. Once they trim the roots and tops, the garlic is ready for sale. Any bulb larger than 2 inches can be sold as seed garlic, which is the case for most of the Terrys’ garlic—and much of the garlic grown in Oregon. “Garlic is a weird plant because it needs to be, at least every third year, taken to a higher elevation or a more northerly place to reinvigorate it,” said Chip Bubl, an agent at the Oregon State University Extension Service. California is the nation’s top garlic producer, with much of it going to garlic salt, garlic powder and other products which require dehydrated garlic. The plants, however, can’t be “reinvigorated” at higher elevations there. That’s why producers contract with their neighbors in Oregon for their seed. Bulbs between 1.7 and 2 inches can be sold as fresh culinary garlic for eating. Smaller bulbs are sold in bulk for cooking or other purposes. For example, a neighbor of the Terrys buys the smaller bulbs to feed their sheep because it acts as a dewormer. Garlic has plenty of health benefits for humans too. “My wife and I, we love garlic and we never get sick,” Terry said. “It’s well-known for improving the immune system.” Several studies have shown that garlic has excellent health-promoting properties and prevention effects for many common diseases, such as cancer, cardiovascular and metabolic disorders, blood pressure and diabetes. The Terrys grow five varieties of hardneck garlic and three types of softneck garlic, categories which refer to the type of 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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stems the garlic has. Hardneck garlic tends to be more cold hardy and produces a flower stem, called a scape. Softneck bulbs generally produce more cloves, have a longer shelf life and a less pungent flavor. The Terrys’ favorite varieties include the hardneck Romanian red and creme de la rasa and the softneck lorz Italian. Farming also means producing fresh food for your own meals, which Terry loves—especially in June, when the long, curling scapes are available for sautéing, blending into pesto or adding to curries and other dishes. “It’s nice to spend the day teaching semiconductor physics and then go out in the garlic,” he added. “It’s a very different part of the mind. It’s relaxing and you’re out in nature. It’s hard work, but it’s fun and satisfying.” The unmistakable flavor of garlic works in a range of savory dishes and even the occasional sweet one. It’s integral to chimichurri, a versatile condiment with fresh herbs, which can be used as a marinade or sauce. Alfredo Climaco, owner of Tropicale in Portland, and his sister, chef Viviana Reyes-Climaco, shared their version with steak skewers and octopus. (See recipe on the following page.) Deep ak Kaul, chef and owner of Bhuna in Portland, grew up eating masoor dal at his parents’ table. “I updated it for my restaurant by charring the ginger and garlic,” he said. “I feel that gives a delicious smoky flavor to the dal. To make a quick lunch or dinner, serve it with rice, a nice chunky hunk of bread or a grilled cheese sandwich.” (See recipe on the following page.)
farm to table
Masoor Dal (Red Split Lentils) Bhuna / PORTLAND Deepak Kaul
Tropicale’s Pulpo (grilled octopus with chimichurri, chorizo rojo, papas amarillo and cilantro crema).
SERVES 8 TO 10 • • • • • • • • • • •
1 pound red lentils 4 cups water or vegetable stock 3 ounces fresh ginger, sliced into coin shapes 6 ounces garlic cloves whole 2 teaspoons turmeric 15 ounces canned, chopped tomatoes 5 Thai chili peppers, chopped 1 bunch cilantro 4 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1 lemon, juiced
Marielle Dezurick
OPTIONAL TOPPING • 1 teaspoon cumin seed • 1 teaspoon brown mustard seed • 1 teaspoon fennel seed • 4 dry arbol chilies • 4 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)
FOR OPTIONAL TOPPING In a saute pan, heat the ghee until it begins smoking and add all the spices. Fry while stirring with a spoon until fragrant. The mixture will sizzle as you pour it over the cooked masoor dal.
Oregon Recipes
Global Garlic Chimichurri
Tropicale / PORTLAND Viviana Reyes-Climaco and Alfredo Climaco MAKES 1½ CUPS • 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, firmly packed, trimmed of thick stems • 3 or 4 garlic cloves • 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves (or 2 teaspoons dried) • ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil • 2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar
Char the ginger and garlic in a cast iron pan and set aside. Make a sachet with the charred ginger, charred garlic and cilantro. Wash the dal until the water runs clear. Drain and set aside. Bring water or vegetable stock to a boil in a Dutch oven and reduce heat to simmer. Add the sachet, turmeric, chopped chilies, chopped tomatoes, lentils salt and sugar to the simmering water. Simmer until the lentils are soft. Season with lemon juice.
• ½ teaspoon sea salt • Ground black pepper • Red pepper flakes
Masoor Dal from Bhuna (photo: Sage Brown)
Finely chop the parsley, fresh oregano and garlic (or in a food processor, pulse it several times). Place in a small bowl. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar, salt. Add pepper and red-pepper flakes to taste. Serve immediately or refrigerate. If chilled, return to room temperature before serving. It can keep for a week or two in the refrigerator. Use on steak, octopus.
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Warding Off Evil, Blandness written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane AT THE AGE of 9, after watching the classic, 1931 version of the movie Dracula starring Bela Lugosi, I was terrified that the evil Transylvanian count or some other creep would come into my room, bite my neck and turn me into a blood-drunk maniac. To protect myself, I attached a bulb of garlic to a strand of twine and wore it around my neck while sleeping. It worked, of course. Not only did it keep Bela away, it also prevented anyone from sitting next to me on the school bus the next morning. Aside from vampires, garlic is thought to ward off other things that harm us. It is packed with vitamin C and B6 and minerals such as selenium, calcium and iron. Recent studies show that garlic can help reduce the risk for cardiovascular diseases, tumors and other ills, but scientists add that more studies are needed to understand how to use it in treatments. While researchers are doing that, however, people around the world look to garlic as an essential ingredient in a range of cuisines, as they have done for millennia. When it comes to cooking with garlic at home, I like to use whole garlic bulbs. This adds versatility to what you can do with it. Aside from peeling it, chopping it, marinating meats in it and gently wilting greens in a sauté pan with it, I like to roast the whole bulbs. This roasting transforms the garlic, making it less pungent and creating a deep umamilike flavor and creamy texture. For instant gratification, I like to spread the warm roasted garlic on some crusty bread with a well-aged brie or Camembert cheese. Here is a roasted garlic soup recipe that is sure to make humans happy and vampires sad. 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Roasted Garlic Soup SERVES 6 • 3 to 4 heads of garlic • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 4 to 8 ounces pancetta, diced • 1 small onion, chopped • 4 cups chicken stock • ½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated • 1 cup heavy cream • ½ teaspoon salt • ½ teaspoon black pepper TO ROAST THE GARLIC Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Slice the tops off the garlic heads, just enough to expose the cloves. Drizzle the cloves with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place each bulb cut side up, on a small square of aluminum foil. Fold the foil around the bulb of garlic and place on a cookie sheet. Roast the garlic for 45 minutes. Cool thoroughly. FOR THE GARLIC SOUP In a large pot, cook diced pancetta over medium heat until crispy, about 5 to 7 minutes. Drain off all but 1 tablespoon of pancetta fat. Reserve crispy pancetta in a bowl. Add chopped onion to pancetta drippings in the pan. Sauté onions until they start to caramelize, about 10 minutes. When roasted garlic is cooled, press it out of its skins. Add it to a blender with the chicken stock and cooked onions. Purée the soup until smooth. Return soup to the pot, add Parmesan and cream, and heat until desired temperature. Sprinkle the pancetta evenly atop each bowl of soup and serve.
farm to table Crusty bread and French cheeses complement the roasted garlic flavor of this soup.
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home + design
“For people who love being outdoors, you really can’t find a more spectacular place in the world.” — Dan Hill, Arbor South architect, senior principal and certified master builder
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home + design
This cabin had to comply with the federal government’s strict design guidelines, from the pitch of the roof to the window style.
New Classic
A heritage cabin in the Deschutes National Forest is rebuilt to last a lifetime written by Melissa Dalton AS LONG AS Americans have been recreating outdoors, they’ve dreamed of a cozy cabin awaiting them after the day’s adventures. We might blame the federal government for that. More than a hundred years ago, when Congress began preserving swaths of forests and established the U.S. Forest Service to manage them, they also created, in 1915, the Recreational Residence Program. Also known as the “Cabin in the Woods” program, its goal was to facilitate back-to-nature experiences for families and organizations. Cabin owners buy the structure and are responsible for its maintenance, while the underlying land belongs to the Forest Service. The program issues special use permits which last for twenty years, and owners must pay an annual fee. In 2016, those fees totaled more than $30 million. When the program was first established, there was a public campaign to woo prospective buyers. In 1916, a headline in Bend newspaper The Bulletin declared, “Forest Beauty Spots Offered: Government Wants Them Developed.” The article stated, “The lands which will probably be available in the Deschutes National Forest under the arrangement are almost unexcelled in the northwest.” Today, about 14,000 of these recreational residences remain in national forests nationwide, with 2,800 in Oregon and Washington. In Deschutes National Forest, 284 such homes have been built at the Metolius River, Crescent Lake, Elk Lake, Paulina Lake and Odell Lake.
Loren Nelson
A Rare Opportunity Odell Lake is tucked in the Cascade Range in northwest Klamath County, its waters and shores a four-season outdoor playground for everything from kokanee and rainbow trout fishing, to snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. “For people who love being outdoors, you really can’t find a more spectacular place in the world,” said architect and certified master builder Dan Hill. In 2013, Hill, who works for the firm Arbor South in Eugene, was tapped to rebuild a recreational residence cabin, one of sixty-six constructed around Odell Lake in the 1930s and 40s. Cabins with this unusual provenance and remarkable lakeside siting don’t often come up for sale, Hill said, but dismay hit the moment he stepped in the front door. “The first thing that we noticed was a lot of musty mold smells in the house, which is always a little bit of a red flag.” Further inspection confirmed that first whiff. The original cabin had been built on-grade with no MARCH | APRIL 2021
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home + design
crawl space for proper ventilation, and the walls were filled with dry rot and mold. The team wanted to build a new cabin in the same footprint. First, however, they had to ask the Forest Service for permission.
A Storied Site “The short answer was ‘Yes,’ but it was going to be a challenging process,” Hill said. Demolishing and rebuilding the cabin required about two and half years of elaborate collaboration among diverse government representatives, as the project was the first of its kind in the area. Since the land is considered sacred to local Native tribes, an archaeologist was engaged during demolition and site prep, to confirm no tribal bones or artifacts were present. Findings were presented to the local tribes for approval. State and Forest Service experts reviewed the project for preservation of local plants, trees and wildlife. The new cabin also had to comply with the federal government’s strict design guidelines, which dictate virtually everything, from the pitch of the roof to the window style. The size was capped at the original 1,200-square-foot plan, so Hill added 600-square-feet of loft space and two porches to maximize that footprint.
Everything that makes the remote setting a wonder to play in, made construction a challenge. “Timing was everything,” Hill said. In 2015, the team completed demolition and poured a new foundation, then covered the concrete with insulated blankets to prevent it from freezing and cracking from heavy snow. When the snow melted the following April, they had about a six-month window to complete the project. To expedite the process, Arbor South collaborated with New Energy Works of Portland, which fabricated the cabin’s substantial timber framework in their McMinnville factory during the winter. In spring, it was brought to the site along with the wall and roof system panels and put into place with a small forklift. “You go from a whole bunch of tarps on the site to this skeleton structure in a day,” said Sean Berman, project manager at New Energy Works. Hill regularly visited the site, camping out nearby in his Airstream trailer so he could be available seven days a week and secure the fall completion deadline. “It was a treat to be able to do that but a very intense project,” he said.
A Modern Rustic Retreat Today, it’s hard to tell the cabin hasn’t always been there. Its warm, inviting ambience shows no signs of that intensity of the project. Exterior details, such as the tight-knot cedar and chimney clad in Montana moss stone, perfectly suit the surroundings. “It’s a beautiful, rustic stone that integrates very nicely with the bark on the trees,” Hill said. 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Photos: Loren Nelson
High Elevation, Tight Deadline
FROM TOP Tight-knot cedar and a chimney clad in Montana moss stone perfectly suit the surroundings. The home features an open plan with high ceilings and a loft.
Inside, an open plan lets the cabin live large, with high ceilings in the living room complemented by cozy alcoves, such as the dining nook with its custom banquette and loft. Generous window placement encourages sight-lines throughout the home to the idyllic, tree-filtered view of the lake, whether someone’s just waking up in the principal bedroom, eating breakfast, or curled up on the front porch with a cup of coffee. No detail feels out of place, from the cheery, blue, antiqueinspired stove in the kitchen to the texture of the exposed timber framework. The finish on the latter is a deliberate nod to the traditional tools and building practices employed for the cabins of yesteryear. “Not only does that rough-sawn texture provide a certain aesthetic, but it calls back to the history of the location,” Berman said. Such is how the cabin balances the past and the future. “We wanted to build something that would last a hundred years,” Hill said. “This is a heritage cabin that will be passed on through several generations.”
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With so many fun things to do, great places to eat, and oceanfront places to stay, Rockaway Beach on Oregon’s north coast is the place families love to visit.
Plan your trip at VisitRockawayBeach.org
Loren Nelson
home + design
Accent lights and fixtures that don’t obstruct views were employed at this Odell Lake cabin.
DIY: Get the Light Right THE RIGHT lighting plan is essential for creating a warm and inviting glow. Here are tips for doing it right. THINK IN LAYERS Have a variety of light sources that work together in layers, to evenly distribute the light around the room, rather than relying on a single source overhead, which can cast gloomy shadows. Start with ambient light, via fixtures like table and floor lamps, to create pools of illumination in multiple spots. PAIR THE RIGHT LIGHT TO THE RIGHT TASK Task lighting provides bright, focused light for the job at hand, whether that’s prepping dinner in the kitchen, or putting on make-up in the bathroom. These lights should not cast shadows in the wrong places, so consider distances and bulb wattage. For instance, in the bathroom, position sconces on either side of the mirror at about face level. GET MOODY Sprinkle in accent lighting to function as spotlights—per34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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haps highlighting your favorite artwork or bookshelves. In the cabin, Hill illuminated the owners’ antique sports equipment on a display shelf. CONSIDER SIGHT-LINES When picking out a fixture, always consider its size and proportions, and whether it will block a view between rooms, or out the windows. Hill’s team chose a linear Hubbardton Forge pendant over the dining table for just that reason, so someone at the kitchen island could easily see the lake through the windows. USE DIMMERS Dimmers create more control over the room’s ambience— turn them all the way up when searching for the remote control, or dim them for a laid back evening.
home + design
Classic and Modern Create a new rustic style at home The custom art over the fireplace in the Odell Lake cabin was a collaboration between Dan Hill and Elliott Specialty Metal of Eugene. Together, they produced a textured engraving of a tree trunk from the site. A Constellation Explorer print from Schoolhouse Electric of Portland is another large-scale, nature-infused piece—a lithograph of a circular Navy star chart of forty-eight constellations, sure to inspire stargazing. www.schoolhouse.com
Elmira Stove Works in Ontario, Canada, has been making vintage-inspired ranges since 1975. Today, their product line includes refrigerators, microwaves, wall ovens and dishwasher panels, and is available in seven colors with two metal trims, including the brilliant blue and copper combo seen in the Odell Lake cabin. With electronic control panels concealed behind antiquestyle doors, the appliances perfectly blend classic style with modern functionality.
Blacksmith Jeff Wester got his start in 1983, shoeing horses from the back of his truck in Sisters. He’s since built his business as well as his shop, Ponderosa Forge, producing handforged iron pieces for the home, from cabinet hardware to fireplace tools. www.ponderosaforge.com
www.elmirastoveworks.com
Pendleton has long been delivering updated takes on the classics. This cotton quilt set offers a more minimalist version of the traditional flying geese pattern and comes in a crisp navy-and-ivory color combination. www.pendleton-usa.com
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mind + body
Alex Cole, co-founder of YoYoYogi in Portland, shares breathwork techniques in his studio and in this story, too.
Just Breathe
Breathwork is a top wellness trend with science behind the benefits written by Cathy Carroll
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Matt Gonzalez
mind + body
JUST AS GAZING at a starry sky offers a free show, nightly, anywhere, breathwork, breathing’s equivalent of stargazing, may be one of the most accessible, costfree wellness solutions, and it’s on the rise. Mindful awareness, paying attention to the present moment in an open, curious way by stopping to breathe, observe and connect with your inner experience, has been shown to be a powerful stress reducer. According to the Mindful Awareness Research Center at U.C.L.A., for the past decade, significant research has shown mindfulness addresses lowering blood pressure, boosting the immune system, increasing attention and focus (in ADHD sufferers and others), alleviating anxiety and depression, fostering well-being and emotional stability and thickening the brain regions regulating decision making, emotional flexibility and empathy. Clinical studies from major universities such as Harvard and Stanford have shown that the way we breathe can have profound effects on our mental and physical health. The Global Wellness Summit, an international group of wellness industry leaders, cited breathwork as one of the top nine wellness trends for 2021. “Practitioners are bringing breathwork to ever-larger audiences and pushing it into fascinating new territories, including rehabilitation, fitness, community building, and relief from chronic stress, trauma and PTSD,” according to GWS’s latest report. “Cool, clubby breathwork parties and festivals are rising … Perhaps the best part of all— this drug-free medicine costs absolutely nothing.” In Portland, Alex Cole, co-founder of YoYoYogi, believes breath to be at the heart of the practice of yoga. “I began my yoga practice several decades ago on my living room floor when my wife, Terri, encouraged me to join her,” he said. “What started as a physical practice quickly became much more.” He was drawn to the combination of breath and movement. His background as a singer and dancer gave him some insight into this powerful combination, but the breath work of yoga was different. “I was so intrigued that it compelled my wife and I to take a transformational journey.” They embarked on a yoga adventure from Seattle to San Diego to discover more about yoga and chronicled it in their blog, “YoYoYogi—100 studios in 100 days.” The following year, they opened the YoYoYogi studio in 2010. All of their classes begin with pranayama, the breath of yoga. “This is done to still the mind and switch gears from the outside into our internal landscape,” said Cole. “Breath is the core of every class we teach, as the breath is the essence of this practice. Without the breath, yoga does not exist. “Breath is what creates the euphoric state achieved from a yoga practice,” Cole said. “The combination of
physical movement and breath creates a change in our mental state, creating a mindful way of experiencing life.” Breathwork has multiple benefits, he said. “I find that breath calms the mind, increases energy, lowers blood pressure, slows the heart rate, and detoxifies and nourishes the body. Slowing our breath enables us to make mindful decisions. When we breathe, we see clearly. A few deep, long breaths can shift our mental state and allow us to respond in a mindful way rather than have a knee jerk reaction.” At age 65, Cole reports having a resting heart rate in the low 50s. “I attribute this to my yoga practice, which keeps me freer of daily anxieties and allows me to find calmness in difficult situations,” he said. “Understanding the power of the breath as a tool helps manage life’s challenges. Breathwork stimulates the parasympathetic nervous system and counteracts the fight-or-flight reaction to stress. “When a person has a disciplined breathwork practice, they tend to engage it when faced with life’s difficulties,” said Cole. “Students have seen small irritants disappear as they continue a practice of breath. They are able to see matters from different perceptions as they open their lungs and their mind.” He encourages people to start with a simple, easy practice of starting the day with a few minutes of deep, slow breaths. Practiced daily, consistent breath work amplifies the benefits. “This can be done anywhere,” said Cole. “Whether you are home, in your car, taking a walk or in a group class, the power of breath is quiet and personal … an invaluable tool for maintaining calmness and navigating life.”
“Breath is what creates the euphoric state achieved from a yoga practice. The combination of physical movement and breath creates a change in our mental state, creating a mindful way of experiencing life.” — Alex Cole, co-founder of YoYoYogi
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artist in residence
Elijah Hasan
Elijah Hasan’s art lies in collaboration. He considers his next film to be possibly one of the most important of his career.
The Art-ivist Portland filmmaker and educator aims for empowerment, enlightenment and joy written by Cathy Carroll
ELIJAH HASAN HAD JUST finished curating footage and editing a five-and-a-half hour digital stand-in for an annual tribute to Martin Luther King Jr., which for the past thirty-five years has been a live event of Portland’s World Arts Foundation. Themed “Bridges Over Troubled Water,” it compiles footage from the past three-and-half decades—mayors, governors, city council members, music from local, traditional Native American, Mexican and Chinese performers, artists and church choirs from the late ’70s. “I can’t even begin to impress upon you how many times, going through that footage, I had tears—there was so much soul,” said Hasan. He juxtaposed the archival material with speeches and music of today, wrapping the hefty project the night before it went live in mid-January. Instead of reflexively relaxing, he felt gripped by what he had to do next. “It was nagging, pulling, jerking at my heart for a few years, but especially since that last push of the Black Lives Matter movement in the post-George Floyd era,” said Hasan. For about the 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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last two years, he had been filming interviews with Black and brown officers of the Portland Bureau of Police. Like most artists, he put it on the back burner so that he could do projects that paid. Finally, he’d landed a few pieces that allowed him to get back to those interviews. Darker Than Blue includes Hasan’s lilting jazz piano, which draws you into the stories of veteran minority officers as they look back on why they joined the force, their experiences and how they strive to make a difference by bringing positive change from within.
It’s this kind of work as a writer, filmmaker and director which the Seattle Art Museum recognized last fall with the annual Betty Bowen Special Recognition Award honoring a Northwest artist. “He centers the stories of Black communities as they navigate these realities, all while on a personal journey of artistic and spiritual growth,” according to the awards committee. Hasan is quick to note about Darker Than Blue: “It’s not what people may assume. It’s how unique the Portland police experience is and the programs they were a part of became models for the country.” Beginning with the late 1960s, the film chronicles how these officers came up with ideas for addressing issues which gave rise to new ways for aiding people in behavioral crises related to mental illness or drug and alcohol addiction. It examines moves toward community policing, which requires trust and dialogue around the common good in better police services. A project he completed a couple of months ago was distinctly more lighthearted. Reviving the Black Nod was a way to show my love for the black community during a stressful time,” said Hasan. The executive producer, longtime friend and fellow Portland writer and multimedia artist S. Renee Mitchell, had approached him with the idea as part of her “Spreading Black Joy” project. “He took a kernel of an idea and made it into a whole bag of popcorn, so to speak,” said Mitchell. The film interviews Black Portlanders about their nonverbal way of acknowledging each other with a nod, rather than a wave. It explores how the subtleties of that simple gesture can speak volumes about how it has evolved over generations. After the first draft, Mitchell had several pages of suggested changes. “Now, he didn’t make every change, as he believed he had a certain way he wanted to tell the story,” she said. “But, I still felt like he listened to my ideas, respectfully, and we ended up with something even better than we—individually—could have done.” He’d later told her that even though he didn’t follow through on all of her suggested changes, that her insistence challenged him to think differently about a few things, which improved his artistry in the end. “That’s what it’s like to work with Elijah,” said Mitchell. “He’s an excellent collaborator, thinker, but also a great listener. He’s extremely dedicated to always doing his best work.” His projects bring people together, she said, citing the “What Connects Us” photography project that paired students at Portland’s Hauton B. Lee Middle School with officers from the Gresham Police Department, who came in as visiting artists. “It empowers people’s voices and perspectives in a way they didn’t have access to before, as he often uses his art to educate and enlighten others. That’s what makes him not just an artist, but an art-ivist,” said Mitchell. Hasan led the program for two years at the middle school, creating a non-confrontational way for youth to engage with police through art, which changes each of their perspectives. In a video around the project, students express how their ideas and opinions of police changed because of it. A natural teacher, Hasan wants other artists and teachers to replicate the experience. He wrote the curriculum, based on
Stills courtesy of Elijah Hasan
artist in residence
FROM TOP Photo from the project “What Connects Us.” The project paired Portland middle school students with officers from the Gresham Police Department.
artists partnering with art organizations and school resource officers and police bureaus. Hasan’s roots in Portland are three generations deep. His grandfather came to the city to work in the shipyards. Hasan discovered photography at age 9, at an after-school program at Irvington Elementary School. He had the chance to go to college on the East Coast on a scholarship. “But for some reason, whether it was fear or ties here, for whatever reason, I stayed,” he said. He graduated from Portland State University and pursued rap and hip hop. His children are grown and his wife, Mitra, whom he’s known for thirty-five years, is a Portland native, too. “I think she was born smiling,” he said. “Her beauty caught my eye, her cooking reeled me in, but it was her poetry that captured my heart.” She’s a Montessori teacher who works with 18-month-olds and toddlers, and is known as “the baby whisperer,” he said. “She’s a blessing to me and I couldn’t have done any of this without her,” he said. MARCH | APRIL 2021
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STARTUP 42 WHAT’S GOING UP 44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 45 MY WORKSPACE 46
pg. 48 The nonprofit McKenzie Community Development Corporation is mobilizing volunteers to revive towns devastated by wildfire.
Tom Atkinson @R3Digital
GAME CHANGER 48
Visit EatOregonSeafood.org or search #EatOregonSeafood to learn more, and find out how to get your hands on our claws.
startup
OpConnect founder Dexter Turner is on a mission to make electric-vehicle charging easy for many.
Plugged Into the EV Market OpConnect’s electric-vehicle charging solutions poised to expand market share written by Kevin Max OPCONNECT IS THE brainchild of co-founder Dexter Turner, an aerospace engineer and a former avionics engineer at Boeing. Turner launched OpConnect in 2012, when electric vehicles were still mostly the fantasy of the eccentric South African, Elon Musk. Skeptics were greater in number than supporters. In 2012, Tigard-based OpConnect began building the software to manage EV charging while also dipping into manufacturing EV charging stations. The more Turner worked with manufacturing, the more he realized that software would be the company’s true value in a bigger problem. What problem is the company trying to solve? Turner saw a sector that was fractured between hardware, software and service providers. To potential customers in fleet management and owners of apartment buildings, they won’t suffer the pieces. They simply want an EV-charging solution that will work well 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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for their fleet drivers or homeowners. “No one is buying these things separate,” Turner said. “They just want someone to handle it all.” OpConnect brings together the EV world of hardware, software and service in a simple turnkey solution. On the consumer side, it’s the EV Driver app that helps users find and pay for EV charging at OpConnect fueling stations. On the commercial side, OpConnect will also provide installation of charging stations, which it sources through a third party. “If you’re a property owner or school district or school and want to set up a charging station, we can do it all, soup to nuts,” Turner said. His team includes chief operating officer and co-founder Dan Lulich, an experienced engineer who brings AI and machine learning expertise to the table; Dave Packard, a longtime EV entrepreneur, who began his career in engineering at Lockheed Missiles and Space Company in Sunnyvale, California; and vice president of sales Amy Hillman, a former sales executive at Blink Charging, an EV charging company based in Florida. As CEO, Turner makes OpConnect perhaps the only Black-founded and Black-led EV company in the country. When the pandemic struck last year, the company had to reassess its strategy. One of the main lines of business was installing new EV stations at workplaces. But when offices across the country indefinitely closed, that business, too, dried up. Further, fewer people were driving, electrical contractors weren’t able to install new charging stations, and OpConnect couldn’t sell new packages. Turner and company shifted toward multifamily residences, buses and food and beverage vehicles. This pivot proved to be critical and timely. OpConnect has now deployed 1,100 charging ports in eighteen states plus Washington, D.C., and is beginning to expand into Canada and New Zealand. The political environment also shifted in 2021, creating a bigger mandate for EV businesses. In January, President Joe Biden announced that he would replace the entire 645,000-vehicle fleet of government vehicles with electric vehicles. School districts in Oregon and Washington have already begun replacing legacy diesel buses with electric buses, ironically using the Volkswagen settlement funds from a case in which the German manufacturer concealed the true tailpipe emissions from its customers. The private sector outlook is another factor that bodes well for OpConnect. Investment bank Morgan Stanley in 2020 told its clients that it expected global electric-vehicle sales to grow 50 percent or more this year, while sales of the traditional internal combustion engine vehicles would lag with 2 to 5 percent. The poster child for the industry, Tesla, is expected to deliver 785,000 EVs, or 57 percent more than 2020, with that number spiking to 5.38 million deliveries by 2030, according to Morgan Stanley analyst reports. Turner said that while he’s mostly concerned about growing market share, the company was profitable six of twelve months in 2020. By the year end, he said, OpConnect expects to ride the wave of greater EV adoption and double or triple his current team of fourteen.
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what’s going up?
John Day Bike Park has miles of gravity-line flow track.
Park Pop-ups The pandemic hasn’t slowed strides toward outdoor recreation and honoring diversity written by Kevin Max IT’S HEARTWARMING that some institutions have plodded (and plotted) right through the pandemic. Four new parks have or soon will open across the state. A proposed $60 million 163,380-square-foot Medford Sports and Events Complex gives the city its first indoor pool, eight basketball courts and sixteen multi-courts. Oregon City dedicated the new 9-acre Tyrone S. Woods Memorial Park in December, named for former Navy SEAL and CIA agent, Tyrone Woods, who grew up in Oregon City and died during the Benghazi embassy siege in 2012. The new park includes a boardwalk, walking paths, a playground, picnic shelter, an expansive lawn and an off-leash dog park. With awards from the Autzen Foundation and Oregon Parks and Recreation, John Day launched its new John Day Bike Park. In two phases, the park will encompass miles of gravity-line flow track and an all-wheel, all-age trail on the hillside above 7th Street. Portland brought a new dedication to an old park by renaming Lynchview, a public space at Southeast 167th Avenue and Market Street, for one of Oregon’s early Black female civil rights leaders, Verdell Burdine Rutherford. The 8-acre park had also underwent a renovation in 2014, with improvements including a new playground, picnic shelter, paved pathways, public art and a soccer field. This dedication marks the first time Portland has named a park after a Black woman.
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what i’m working on
Merryn Roberts-Huntley believes in empowering women to achieve anything they want, even competing for Mrs. Oregon.
believer that if you can dream it, you can do it.
Elizabeth Brock-Jones
Tell us about Dress for Success and your fundraising activities for them. Dress for Success is such an amazing organization that is all about helping women find employment and develop skills to build economic security. In addition to my work as a college instructor, I also work as a career coach, so as I gear up for the Mrs. Oregon Pageant, I’m doing talks for the Dress for Success community on professional development topics. I’m also fundraising to support their amazing programs. People can learn more or consider donating at www.madetohire. com/dressforsuccess. Every dollar helps support women in Oregon working to better themselves. What does it take to be a mother of three, a professional and train to compete? I’d call it a special blend of motivation, a lot of love and a huge desire to give back—not to mention sleep and serious time management!
Wonder Woman
Helping others reach their potential is what drives this career coach, professor and nonprofit supporter
What is the one thing that drives you to stay engaged across your many pursuits? The desire to help others reach their potential. That is my passion, my gift, I suppose you’d call it.
interview by Kevin Max
MERRYN ROBERTS-HUNTLEY is a career coach and teaches marketing at the graduate level at the University of Oregon. She lives in Portland with her husband and their three children. How did you first become interested in the Mrs. Oregon pageant? I was really into pageants growing up, but I never had the confidence to actually do one. As I got older and accomplished many of the dreams I once thought were huge and maybe even out of reach, I realized I was only limited by what I put my mind to. When I was 40, I did my first bodybuilding competition. Not only did I survive the sheer terror of a tiny bikini on stage surrounded by 20-somethings (who had not had 3 children), but I actually kind of
rocked it and ended up winning the beginners’ division. That was the boost I needed to finally believe I could enter a pageant. Is this a typical extracurricular activity for a college instructor? Ha ha. I don’t think so! I’m guessing I’ll be the first college instructor to compete in a pageant in our state. My students hear me say all the time that they’re capable of anything, so I’m putting my money where my mouth is—or where my heels are I should say!? I’m a big
What advice can you give to women who are struggling to get back on track during Covid? First off, I’d say I feel you, and you aren’t alone! Next I’d recommend starting with one goal. Make it small. Make it attainable. Write down the steps you need to take to reach it. Hold yourself accountable by telling someone about the goal. Even better, talk a girlfriend into doing it with you. Starting small and having a ‘win’ will build your momentum. Life is all about building your confidence little by little. You can do this. If I can help you in any way, don’t hesitate to reach out!
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my workspace
The Mass Appeal of Mass Timber A collaborative effort to design environmentally friendly wood products written by Kevin Max
Judith Sheine is director of design for the Corvallis-based Tallwood Design Institute, a collaboration between University of Oregon and Oregon State University. It’s the nation’s first and only interdisciplinary research collaborative focused on the advancement of mass timber and structural woodproduct building solutions.
The big trend in mass timber is that it’s being used in more and more buildings. It’s a structural material and can be employed in many ways. People are interested in these new materials because wood is beautiful and it sequesters carbon, Sheine said.
The big advantage with mass timber is that it is an engineered product that takes small pieces of wood and laminates (glues) them together to make large, strong panels, beams and columns. “Unlike other wood products, we don’t need large diameter trees,” said Sheine. “We can use small-diameter timber that would otherwise have little commercial value. For example, you can use logs that are being thinned out of forest restoration projects.”
“It’s a homegrown and home-produced material in Oregon, and it feels good to be in a timber building,” she said.
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MADE POSSIBLE BY
WITH SUPPORT FROM
Bend Magazine, Bespoke 3D Prints, The Source Weekly, Smart Shopper, OPB and James F. & Marion L. Miller Foundation
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game changer
Volunteers with the McKenzie Community Development Corporation in mid-February, cleaning up debris in the wake of the Holiday Farm fire.
McKenzie Strong
A tiny nonprofit rises to meet the needs brought by devastating wildfire written by Cathy Carroll LAST SUMMER, the task at hand for a tiny nonprofit serving nine small towns strung along the McKenzie River was researching the history of an old stagecoach route connecting them. It was part of a project for signs to go along what is now Highway 126, aimed at enriching the visitor experience and honoring the community’s heritage. That all changed on the night of September 7, when the Holiday Farm Fire surged through the area on its quest to burn more than 173,000 acres. It was clear that the McKenzie Community Development Corporation would instantly need to 48 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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pivot from preserving culture to surviving a disaster. The CDC team of seven, all locals, along their “60-mile Main Street” from Cedar Flat to Clear Lake, were themselves victims. The volunteer board of directors, led by Tim Laue, a native Oregonian who retired to Blue River after being civically active in Eugene for fifty years, saw his home burn to its foundation. CDC spokeswoman Alice Bonasio, who had to flee her property in Blue River, recalled the turning point. “That was the catalyst, and from day two of the fire, when we were blurry eyed, looking around in a hotel room and figuring out what came next—it gave us a focus. We believed we could be useful. Could we be using our connections to advocate for what the community should do next and needs next? Could we get people what they needed?” They began working frantically, identifying a crucial first step—providing information. “People were going to Facebook groups where there was a lot of noise or people rightfully venting, but not the best source of reliable information,” said Bonasio.
game changer
“It’s been such a roller coaster since September, with the needs and priorities constantly evolving, and we try to be nimble and adapt based on what we’re hearing from the community.”
Tom Atkinson @R3Digital
— Alice Bonasio, CDC spokeswoman
They focused on making their website into the go-to resource for help and information, followed by links for donating to a score of recovery efforts, such as rebuilding a library, local coffee shop and a family-run wedding venue. They launched a blog chronicling community resilience with “McKenzie Strong,” stories of area families and small businesses striving to spring back from the catastrophe. The online store with blog-branded hoodies, caps, tees, masks and pajamas supports the cause. “It’s been such a roller coaster since September, with the needs and priorities constantly evolving, and we try to be nimble and adapt based on what we’re hearing from the community,” Bonasio said. When winter set in and people were feeling disparaged during the holidays, they worked with local businesses to put together gift boxes for people living in hotels or camping out in tents or RVs on their property. Seneca wood products contacted the CDC to help the effort, buying gift vouchers
from local restaurants to tuck into the gift boxes, a move which helped small businesses simultaneously suffering from Covid restrictions. “There’s so much goodwill out there, but often not a way people know how to help,” said Bonasio. The CDC raised nearly $500,000 since the fire, not including donations of food and supplies for about 1,500 people in the area who had to flee their homes. Now priorities have shifted from helping provide the basic needs of fuel, food and water, and setting up and staffing relief centers. The CDC is coordinating volunteers to clean up after the devastation, removing hazardous trees and debris. Another goal is maintaining a dialogue with the county, state and federal government about rebuilding, tackling issues such creating sewage systems to replace septic tanks that don’t fit current building codes. Travel Lane County has been helping spread the word about McKenzie Strong while clarifying how tourism can still thrive in the area. While some boat ramps still need repair, many of the area’s U.S. Forest Service trails, campgrounds and popular spots such as Terwilliger (Cougar) Hot Springs escaped fire damage. The challenge is that it isn’t apparent to people driving through the area, which goes through the heart of the destruction, said Jeff Malik, destination development manager for Travel Lane County. “Funding and volunteer time and the energy to rebuild trails and recreational assets, especially boat ramps, getting them cleaned and reopened is going to be critical for the long-term success of the McKenzie as a tourism destination,” he said. A pillar of the CDC mission is to support the local economy, including tourism, and in February, their volunteer cleanup efforts were off to a strong start. “It’s so incredibly broad,” Bonasio said of the organization’s mission, which formed in 1995 and merged with the Ford Family Foundation Action Team in 2016. “We keep an open mind and make decisions from the ground up. I really like what Tim Laue says: ‘No decision should be made about us, without us.’” MARCH | APRIL 2021
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written by Cathy Carroll
PEAK MOMENTS Five sky-scraping adventures around the state for any fitness level—and a plan for getting ready
LOOK UP. In Oregon, things begin looking up when you are, too. With white peaks scraping our skies, our volcanic landscape calls out with an invitation. Don’t decline, don’t send your regrets. Get ready to shift your perspective by standing atop a peak later this spring or in summer. Simply planning an adventure can make you about as happy as actually doing it. Psychological research bears this out. That’s also the case with setting specific, measurable, attainable goals to get you ready for peak season. Here are five peaks to summit around the state, from easy to difficult, with expert tips on how to prepare.
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MOUNT HOOD
CLIFF AGOCS has spent his life climbing peaks around the world, and one of his favorite mountaineering moments happens when he’s on the south side of Mount Hood. It’s nearing dawn, and he’s been climbing in the dark for about four hours. Nearing the final ascent to the highest point in Oregon, 11,250 feet, the first light gives a faint hint of the rim of a crater above. The sky grows bluer. Agocs turns off his headlamp and turns to look behind him. “The shadow of the mountain, a giant triangular shadow, is cast over the forest and Government Camp,” he said. Or, the shadow might fall on the layer of clouds below him. “It’s a really powerful moment that you’ve never thought about. You don’t know that shadow exists.” Agocs loves sharing the moment when he’s guiding people in the climb, too. “I know it’s coming and I’m about to blow everybody’s minds.” At the summit, the sunrise is glinting off the Columbia River as
the eye sweeps around to Mount Jefferson, north to Mount Rainier, Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens in Washington, the lights of Portland and Gresham below, and a line of white-capped sentinels, South, Middle and North Sister and Broken Top. “I tell people, ‘I can see my house,’” said Agocs, of Bend. Mount Hood has moderate routes for beginners and Agocs’ Timberline Mountain Guides offers a four-hour training session in using crampons, ice axes and rope-systems before guiding you to the top in the early hours of the next day. The mountain is a good entree to technical climbing, because it’s relatively low considering how steep it is, and it’s easy to access. You can drive to a plowed parking lot at 6,000 feet and sleep in historic Timberline Lodge or another nearby hotel before you set out. “I’ve had kids as young as 13 summit and a man in his early 80s,” said Agocs. “It’s a good place for folks to start that journey of challenging themselves on a technical mountain.”
MARCH | APRIL 2021
WILLAMETTE VALLEY / SUMMIT: 11,250 FT
FROM LEFT Mount Hood is a good entree to technical climbing. Timberline Mountain Guides offers training in using crampons, ice axes and rope-systems before guiding you to the top. Mount Hood summit at sunrise. (photos, from left: Ronald Hope, MtHoodTerritory.com, Ronald Hope)
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CENTRAL OREGON / SUMMIT: 10,358 FT
SOUTH SISTER
FROM JUST about anywhere in Bend, you can see South Sister. Is she calling to you? Don’t let it go to voicemail—listen. The view from town, whether you’re sitting outside sipping a beer or making a mountain out of a molehill at your desk, is the south side of South Sister, one of the easiest routes on any of Oregon’s big peaks such as this one, its third-tallest. By mid-summer, the trail from Devils Lake is mostly free of snow, ready for your boots to fall on it, past two glaciers and culminating at the 10,358 foot summit. Even though mountaineering expert Cliff Agocs has climbed some of the globe’s most challenging peaks, he still has superlatives for this one. “One thing is for certain, the view is
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amazing when you are standing on top of it. You can see the whole spread of the Oregon Cascades and on a clear day, as far as Mount Adams very clearly,” he said. “It’s pretty incredible.” The eight- to ten-hour day of scaling 5,000 feet of elevation covers 12 miles roundtrip. Near the top, the well-worn trail on a natural field of gravel is known for its loose footing. “If you go too fast or step in the wrong place, you’re not going to fall off the mountain, but it burns more energy,” said Agocs. “You use more small, stabilizing muscles in your legs, not the big quads, which is one of the things that makes hiking so good for you. It demands full-body fitness, more than a stairmaster or running on pavement.”
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The view from South Sister, Oregon’s third-tallest peak at 10,358 feet. Summiting South Sister is an eightto ten-hour day of scaling 5,000 feet of elevation. By mid-summer, the trail from Devils Lake is mostly free of snow. (photos, clockwise from left: Chris Henderson, U.S. Forest Service, Chris Henderson)
Then there’s the mindset—what’s in your head as you continually walk skyward, with a big reward at the apex, rather than a loop or linear route. “A lot of folks get into a little mantra, or lost in their thoughts and surroundings,” Agocs said. “You just keep putting one foot in front of the other until you’re at the top. We all have our moments of trying to get to the top and ‘This sucks, my legs are tired, I’m breathing heavily and I kind of want to give up,’ but you push through and get a lot of satisfaction at the top to see that view.” When you’re back in town, your lower lip no longer trembling, your upper lip coated in beer foam, it all comes into perspective. “You’ll be saying, ‘Man that scree was brutal.’ Those are the bragging rights,” said Agocs.
FROM TOP Mount Ashland has separate trails for mountain biking and for hiking to the summit. The view from the summit includes Crater Lake, Mount Thielsen, Mount McLoughlin, and on to the Trinity Alps. The views also include Mount Shasta in California. (photos, from top: Justin Olsen/Travel Southern Oregon, Torsten Heycke, Torsten Heycke)
a grove of aspens, you gaze down at the other-worldly sapphire blue of America’s deepest lake, Crater Lake, and over to the Klamath Range, Mount Thielsen, Mount McLoughlin, and on to the Trinity Alps, Red Buttes and Mount Shasta in California. This dreamscape unfolds at the summit of Mount Ashland, the highest point in the Siskiyous, a solid return on investment for a day hike. As you cover the first of the roughly 2-mile trek from the ski area’s parking lot, you’ll feel young amid old growth forest. When the canopy opens up to a field of scarlet gilia, larkspur, paintbrush and columbine, your breath might hint otherwise as you progress toward a 900-foot elevation gain and thinner air near the 7,488-foot mountaintop. Erase that from your mind. Be an anti-peak-bagger and stay in the moment. Do this by keeping an eye out for a rare type of delicate, white-petaled, Henderson’s horkelia, found only in the Siskiyous, and purple-blossomed Mount Ashland lupine, designated as “critically imperiled” by development, according to the U.S. Forest Service. While you’re busy putting one sensiblybooted foot in front of the other over some loose granite, forget botanical facts and lose yourself in swaths of phlox. Pursuing vast, elevated perches such as this can make you feel small. At the summit, you’ll feel like an ant beside a golf ball. The giant white ball, affectionately known by locals as the BRT (Big Round Thing), it houses doppler radar, the National Weather Service’s high-tech sensing equipment. It doesn’t have to be in your selfie, though. Point the lens elsewhere. To mix up the view on the descent and make a loop, take the road down the south side of the mountain for a 3.2-mile roundtrip outing. Keep camera mode at the ready. “Sunsets seem to last for days as the distant peaks retain the gorgeous, ruby-red silhouettes long after the sun disappears below the horizon,” said Michael Stringer, spokesman for the Mount Ashland Association, the community’s nonprofit ski area.
SOUTHERN OREGON / SUMMIT: 7,488 FT
EMERGING FROM meadows of chest-high wildflowers and
MOUNT ASH LAND MARCH | APRIL 2021
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ICE LAKE
GET READY
EXPERT TIPS FOR TAKING ON OREGON’S PEAKS
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Ice Lake in the shadow of the Matterhorn, the Wallowa’s second-highest peak. (photo: Adam Sawyer)
EASTERN OREGON / SUMMIT: 7,900 FT
Oregon hiking and mountaineering experts offered these tips for getting in shape to summit some of Oregon’s peaks this summer. Cliff Agocs, co-owner of Timberline Mountain Guides in Bend, has climbed peaks around the world. He said gyms are convenient, especially following a work day when it’s dark, but Oregon’s free 24/7 gym—it’s open spaces—is a great way to train for a climb or hike. “I think folks often think sunny, clear weather is when to go outside, but when you live really close to the woods, you can dabble in varying conditions, if you can afford time to build up with small adventures,” he said. “In a city, that can be a big time commitment, so you’ll want to make the most of your drive time on a weekend day, and prepare at other times with a gym. But if you live close to that stuff, get out on little adventures to build up your endurance and explore areas around you.” He suggests setting a goal to do a different hike every weekend. Or two nights a week, do a short hike in the moonlight in and around your town. Climbers, mountaineers and hikers should think in two units: mileage and vertical elevation gain. Try doing repetitive laps on hills. “If South Sister is a 5,000-foot elevation gain on the trail summit and five miles, think like that—ask yourself, ‘How long did it take me to do half that mileage and at a quarter of the elevation?’” Agocs said. Set aside days off to simulate the full elevation gain and distance of your targeted summit. Author Adam Sawyer, whose guidebooks cover urban and wilderness hiking, elaborated on using peaks within your city’s limits to help you train. Think Bend’s Pilot Butte, with a 452-foot elevation gain and Portland’s Forest Park, which offers 950 feet of elevation gain on the Lower Macleay Park Trailhead to Pittock Mansion, or Powell Butte, which peaks at about 600 feet. In Ashland, Lithia Park’s upper trails offer a few hundred feet of elevation. When you’ve prepared your body for summiting a peak, get gear to protect you against the elements and carry “the ten essentials,” crucial items for first aid and emergencies. Check out the U.S. National Park Service list at www.nps.gov/ articles/10essentials.htm.
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ICE LAKE may be the destination of this challenging trek, but the waterfall-studded journey itself, amid the jagged granite peaks of the Wallowas is perhaps the true reward. Here in the Eagle Cap Wilderness, Oregon’s largest federally protected, virtually untouched treasure, nearly 360,000 acres is yours to explore. This is a 15.4-mile taste of that land, largely unchanged since Nez Perce Chief Joseph gave a feast for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. “It’s in its own pocket of the state,” said Adam Sawyer, author of several guidebooks, including Hiking Waterfalls in Oregon. “It’s not on the way to anywhere. It’s so vast. Those dramatic granite faces, and in summer, those high mountain meadows are heaven on earth, with streams, lakes and mountainous backdrops.” The first bit of positive reinforcement comes less than a half-mile en route. At the junction, opt in for a mile-long tangent to BC Falls, tumbling 50 feet into the Wallowa River. Listen for a couple more waterfalls along the way. Seeing them, however, requires some careful forays off the main trail, said Sawyer. The following thigh-burning section of switchbacks is rewarded with an eye-full—a stunning basin and Beauty Falls, with a backdrop of Ice Falls cascading from a ridge beyond. Recommence with switchbacks. As with other falls along the way, you have to listen for Ice Falls, and look for boot paths leading off the main trail to see the 480-foot outpouring, which makes a terraced descent, rather than a single, direct plunge. “I was torn between dropping my pack and photographing and looking at the falls and rushing to get a good campsite,” said Sawyer. “In a perfect world, I would go get the site and come back.” In about a half mile, Ice Lake reveals itself, lorded over by the Matterhorn, at 9,826 feet, the Wallowa’s second-highest peak. This scenery, evocative of Italy’s Dolomites, said Sawyer, justifies the Wallowas’ nickname, “the Oregon alps.”
WITH THE sound of barking sea lions echoing through a rainforest of 250-year-old Sitka spruce and an 80-foot waterfall teeming into the Pacific, Hart’s Cove generously doles out rewards for a moderately steep trek. It also demands patience. The 5.6-mile route near Lincoln City doesn’t open until July 16, thus protecting the rare habitat of the threatened Oregon silverspot butterfly. This journey’s worth waiting for. You’ll begin by descending through a young hemlock forest before winding up switchbacks and crossing a small creek and a meadow overlooking the ocean. That’s the opening act for Chitwood Falls, cascading over the cliff at Hart’s Cove. “It’s one of the best views on the Oregon coast, where you see Three Rocks and the Salmon River estuary,” said Sawyer. The spot is adjacent to one of four places in the world where the Oregon silverspot butterfly can live, because it depends on a single plant species, the early blue violet, which grows here. After locals and the Portland-based Mazamas mountaineering nonprofit raised funds to protect the
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The views along the Hart’s Cove trail are considered to be among the best on the Oregon coast. Cascade Head offers sweeping views of the Pacific. Wildflowers and grasses abound on the headland. (photos, clockwise from top left: Jarett Juarez, Jarett Juarez, Ben Helmer)
area, the Nature Conservancy sealed the deal, buying 270 acres there in 1966. Two narrow trails on the preserve, easily accessed from the road, typically draw 35,000 visitors a year. These have been closed to maintain the state’s social distancing guidelines, making the more ambitious Hart’s Cove a good alternative to experience the area, unusually abundant with prairies of native red fescue, wild rye, Pacific reedgrass, coastal paintbrush, streambank lupine and the rare, pink-petaled Nelson’s checkermallow,
federally listed as threatened. The area is a designated National Scenic Research Area and a United Nations Biosphere Reserve. An underwater volcanic basalt flow about thirty-seven million years ago formed the headland, and Hart’s Cove trail offers 1,300 feet in elevation for you to do a vigorous out-and-back. “It’s a good day-hike, good training for the legs,” said Sawyer. “You’ll definitely want to stay on the trail, and no dogs are allowed, ever, even on leash, or you will get canceled.”
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PIVOTS Oregon’s small business smarts, savvy and serendipity in surviving the pandemic’s attack on the economy written by Kevin Max | illustrations by Allison Bye BY THE TIME March ended, the pandemic had landed squarely on the doorstep of every Oregonian. People were forced to stay home, offices emptied, and businesses closed in hopes of reopening before the money ran out. Small businesses make up nearly all businesses in Oregon and nearly 780,000 jobs, according to the Small Business Administration. Businesses everywhere faced a new reality—change or die. In the following pages, we look at some dramatic and courageous pivots small business owners across many sectors made to save their businesses and livelihood.
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the company’s social media. “Honestly it’s not my forte. Now we have put the focus on talking about the brand online and starting to learn SEO and Google analytics. It’s a whole other world.” Even as the company struggled, Adler transformed his signature program of giving free backpacks to underserved kids into giving meals to underserved kids and their families in Lane County. Over the past year, Adler has had time for internal reflection. “It’s almost like Buddhist philosophy—you don’t really know what’s going to happen when you wake up in the morning. … You can’t expect anything to be the way it’s going to be. To be in the moment, that’s really all there is. There’s a joy of being in the moment. One step at a time.” Adler sees a day soon when his background in the movie business will again create a grand retail experience. “I think there’s going to be a time when people will come back vaccinated, and there will be an excitement for shopping again.”
THE SHOW MUST GO ON(LINE) Will Adler sat uncomfortably for ten days as shipping vessels with some of his products from a partnership with Nike sat delayed at the port of Long Beach, California. Imports and container ships were halted as the country tried to right itself in a gathering storm of Covid. That delay forced Will Leather Goods to delay its own shipments and postponed the corresponding revenue. Further, because of a trade imbalance between the United States and China, China faces a container shortage, having sent more to the U.S. than returned with goods from the U.S. Just days before, however, Will Leather Goods was the kind of experiential brand where people would saunter in off the street, drawn by a dramatic display and the scent of well-cut leather. A one-time actor, Adler knew his audience. Customer service was an art form and customers around the world were treated to a coffee or kombucha while they gazed upon leather goods made in Eugene, Oregon. Every stitch was quality. Shortly into 2020, the pandemic played the role of thief for many lives, for social interactions and for retail businesses. Will Leather Goods furloughed sixty of ninety employees and closed five retail stores in cities around the globe. People turned to shopping online. “When Covid hit, no one was shopping any more,” said Adler. “Of course, the brand doesn’t have Covid, so we started to make our internet site look more like our stores, more experiential.” Adler hired a talented photographer to help tell the visual story online and to integrate
A CRAFT DISTILLER LEARNS A NEW CRAFT Most of Brad Irwin’s business is measured four years in the future. Oregon Spirit Distillers is in the business of the patient production of craft whiskey and rum. Before the pandemic hit, the eleven-year-old maker of distilled spirits was ramping up to double production. The small business had twenty employees and, Irwin noted, some of them had been there for two or three years, a sign of a growing business. He had a full schedule of summer musical acts lined up for their intimate outdoor setting. The company was bolstered by good signs, and began to distribute and sell nationally, including eighteen states. Oregon was no longer their only market, it was one of many. “We were seeing every drop we made sold,” said Irwin. “We had just bought new equipment that would allow us to double our production. That really strapped us.” When Covid began, distilleries were in a precarious position. The governor ordered all but “essential” business closed, without clearly defining which were considered essential. (One could reasonably argue that distilleries performed an essential service during a period of gloom.) At that time, a confidante of Irwin’s called him and told him to pivot into making hand sanitizer, an undisputed essential during the early days of the pandemic. “Hand sanitizer and toilet paper were the only essential things,” said Irwin. “Whiskey was a distant third.” Overnight, Irwin taught himself how to make hand sanitizer by leveraging his experience as a distiller. That was Saturday. “By Monday morning, there was a line outside of our door,” he recalled. He rehired the people he had laid off MARCH | APRIL 2021
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only the day before and brought on other laid off workers from nearby Deschutes Brewery. Eventually Oregon Health Authority got involved, and the whiskey distillers were making hand sanitizer in two daily shifts, six days per week for hospitals and clinics. Every other day, Irwin’s crew would fill another semi-trailer and send it on to medical facilities. “It was a pretty amazing time,” Irwin said. “Especially during the beginning of Covid, everyone was terrified. It kept our business alive at a time when many others weren’t making it. We ended up producing 330,000 eight-ounce bottles.” They had excess and began giving it away to anyone who brought their own container to their facility in Bend. He gave cases of hand sanitizer to those in the local restaurant industry. At the same time, consumers of Irwin’s premium whiskey dropped off by more than a quarter. “We saw people stepping down a shelf,” he noted. Irwin said that going forward, he will work to save more funds for unforeseen disruptions. “We got lucky because we could bridge the gap with hand sanitizer sales. If it would have been an earthquake, we would have had no answer,” he said. Ultimately, he said, the lesson he is taking from the past year is how important social gatherings are for people. “When I see what my daughter missed from not attending school, it is not the education but the contact with friends that she lost. I won’t take that for granted again.”
A TOUR OPERATOR IN GARIBALDI FINDS A BROADER AUDIENCE IN VIDEO Before the pandemic, Amanda Gladics taught people about Oregon fisheries through tours on the docks in Garibaldi. Gladics, assistant professor of practice at Oregon State University Coastal Fisheries Extension, would meet the typical group of fifteen guests at The Shop, where local fish are fileted and sold, and she’d take them down to the docks to the fishing boats and introduce them to the captains and fishermen and women selling their catch. She’d lead them through the dock’s processing facility and end with a stop at Garibaldi Bistro for a seafood tasting—all part of a hands-on educational segment called Shop at the Dock. “We teach people how to buy fish directly from the dock,” said Gladics. “If you’ve never done it before, it can be intimidating.” Through the OSU Extension Service and other local partners, Shop at the Dock offered two tours per day throughout the year. Then came March 2020 and Covid, just when the program was getting underway for the season. Local restaurants, the chief source of revenue for local fishers, were forced closed due to the spreading pandemic. 58 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Visitors, who once filled Gladics’ tours, were hunkered down in their homes. Shop at the Dock was a tour without tourists. “It was very clear that bringing people together wasn’t the right thing to do.” Gladics said. “We could just cancel and do nothing, but that didn’t feel right either.” Along with her local partners, Gladics thought about how they could connect curious people with the coastal fisheries and businesses. “We came up with the idea of doing little videos, and I would edit them and post them on Facebook to see what happens,” she recalled. “The response was amazing!” The first video reached 18,000 people and garnered several hundred responses. Nearly 6,000 viewers saw at least part of the video, reaching magnitudes more people than her tour would in a year. “To me, there were some good lessons in finding something you can do and getting creative,” she said. “I still think there’s a lot of value with the depth of learning with in-person experience, but when you can’t, this is a nice alternative.”
A SENTIMENTAL BREWER CHANNELS A NOSTALGIC DRIVE-THRU At the beginning of 2020, the iconic Old Town Brewery operated two locations—one in downtown Portland and the other, a hip remodel of a 1940s car dealership on Martin Luther King, Jr. Boulevard in NE Portland. Things were going pretty well, Old Town Brewery owner, Adam Milne, recalled. Once the pandemic hit, restaurants and pubs were the first ordered closed. “That was a shock to people, and people were nervous about going out in public,” said Milne.
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“It’s almost like Buddhist philosophy— you don’t really know what’s going to happen when you wake up in the morning. … You can’t expect anything to be the way it’s going to be. To be in the moment, that’s really all there is. There’s a joy of being in the moment. One step at a time.” — WILL ADLER
FOUNDER OF WILL LEATHER GOODS
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Old Town Brewery was Milne’s passion project since he launched it eighteen years before. As a kid, he loved Old Town Pizza. As an adult, he saw the last Old Town Pizza go up for sale and, seized by nostalgia, bought it. When pubs and breweries closed overnight, Milne circled his team and started asking what they could do in conjunction with other local brewers. “We were just in shock trying to keep the public safe and our employees safe, and if it was going to last for a while, how could we survive?” Milne said. “We came up with a hybrid farmers’ market and drive-thru meets a beer festival.” Seven breweries and one cider maker set up tents along a path and people would slowly drive through and shop from their cars with an app and talk to brewers as needed. At the end of the drive-thru, pickers would pick the orders and runners would run them out to customers. “People could do something different and get out of their houses,” observed Milne. “There was also a great camaraderie among brewers.” Perhaps this act of creativity and collective good will be just enough to get Old Town and other brewers through the worst of the scourge. “We’re just waiting for the vaccine to come out, and things will look up,” said Milne. In the meantime, Old Town’s northeast brewpub has twenty outdoor picnic tables and roll-up garage doors in a spacious setting with high ceilings. Hardship followed Milne into the year, but an important sentiment pulled him through. “People genuinely want to help one another, and this is something that affected everyone,” he said. “Brewers that compete on the shelf came together in real life to help one another.”
A SOUTHERN OREGON HOTEL PIVOTS IN TWO FACES OF HELL For Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites, 2020 was shaping up to be its best year. The Mid-century Modern marvel in Southern Oregon saw conferences, tour groups, weddings and record levels of occupancy in its projections. As February faded to March, however, so, too, did their hopes of a breakout year. “The panic and fear of the unknown definitely hit us all— from management, to people who planned to stay in our hotel,” said Karolina Lavagnino, director of sales and marketing. “We had to refund hundreds if not thousands of deposits, which impacted our cash flow.” All of the conferences, the meetings, the tour groups and weddings were canceled. No guests were coming. Revenue died overnight. Ashland Hills Hotel was forced to furlough many of its employees and close its restaurant while it contemplated its future. Managers deliberated, then put strict Covid protocols into place and reopened to a shuttered and timid public. They began to court their
loyal customers with credits for future stays and gift cards to support the restaurant. The real pivot began when the hotel management decided to convert some of their suites into short-term apartments with kitchenettes and thirty-day minimum stays. “People were escaping largely populated areas and looking for small-town safety,” said Lavagnino. “We reimagined our marketing, focusing on the great outdoors and the adventures awaiting in Southern Oregon. Wine and culinary attractions were also a huge pull.” Their restaurant began to offer takeout, delivery and room service—even take-and-bake meals and gift boxes. In Southern Oregon, the pandemic was only one curse last year. In early September, the Alameda Fire swept through Ashland and other Southern Oregon towns in a 9-mile inferno. Thousands of homes and structures were burned to the ground. Hundreds of families were displaced and struggled. The iconic Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Ashland’s economic engine, canceled its season while it tried to understand the future of stage productions during a pandemic. Ashland Hills Hotel and Neuman Group’s other local hotel properties partnered with local organizations to send business into the economically hobbled downtown. Throughout the past year, Lavagnino has learned to distrust a booming economy. “You have to remain agile and open to pivoting as needed,” she said. “Invest in your hotels to attract new, younger travelers eager to do road trips, in our case, to Southern Oregon.” READ MORE
Portland’s food scene takes its creativity to new heights to weather the pandemic. See Shifting Gears, pg. 62
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AT LEFT Mama Dút owner Thuy Pham shifted her career to cooking after the start of the pandemic.
SHIFTING GEARS
When the pandemic hit, these Portland eateries rose to the challenge
written and photographed by Emily Joan Greene MARCH | APRIL 2021
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MAMA DÚT Owner Thuy Pham’s dishes are vegan recreations of her favorite Vietnamese comfort food from childhood. At the beginning of the pandemic, Pham was working as a hairstylist, but the forced closures made her pivot and focus on another creative outlet: cooking. She started a pop-up serving porkless banh mi sandwiches and báhn cuon chay rice cakes out of her kitchen, and things just took off. In November, she moved to a commercial kitchen on SE Morrison and continued to sell her Vietnamese vegan food with vegan pork belly bao buns and vegan fish sauce wings. Vietnam cuisine was vegan and vegetarian before French colonization, so she often looks to older ways of cooking and pays homage to that. The name, Mama Dút uses the Vietnamese word “dút,” meaning “to feed.” Pham’s daughter would say “Mama dút” when she was hungry. Pham also supports her community with pop-ups within her space, including vegan Filipino pastries by Kumare and special dish collaborations with her neighbor, Plant Based Papi. Hours: Thursday-Saturday, noon-6 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4 p.m. Location: 1414 SE Morrison St., Portland
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CLOUDFOREST Owner Sebastian Cisneros started his business in 2014 by launching his first chocolate bar featuring single-estate Ecuadorian cacao, under the name Cloudforest. Cisneros had a retail coffee and chocolate bar that closed in 2019. Despite the end of that brick-and-mortar space, his chocolate bars continued to be successful, being sold in stores nationwide. In January, Cisneros and his partner, Jenna Marek (a former chef at Hat Yai), decided to open the Cloudforest Hot Chocolate Pop Up featuring a short menu of hot cocoas (definitely add on the toasted marshmallow), coffee, tea and freshly made pastries by Marek. The new space is a nod to the former Cloudforest shop, featuring details worthy of an art gallery. From the giant, suspended bar of chocolate that melts as sun streams through the window, to the vibrant and quirky floral installations by Manu Torres and the custom bar with pops of color by Matthew Philip Williams, the space is photo-op worthy. The pop-up also offers local ceramics, Cloudforest’s Magic Spread (an upgraded Nutella), all-purpose chocolate, drinking chocolate and its brightly wrapped chocolate bars. Hours: Friday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Location: 727 SE Morrison St., Portland. The pop-up is slated to stay open through most of the spring, but potentially longer.
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PING Last seen in 2012, the Old Town Chinatown restaurant has been resurrected by chef Michael Kessler as a pop-up inside the shuttered bar Deadshot. Ping is not only bringing back dishes that O.G. Portlanders are nostalgic for, but it is also very telling of the current state of kitchens. The Ping team cooked every dish on the menu and tasted them an hour later to see how they would hold up in the take-out-dominated industry. They even created notecards with instructions for how to reheat the dishes for optimal flavor. The menu is inspired by the izakaya of Japan, the kopitiam of Singapore, bai hoi stands of Vietnam, coffee shops of Bangkok, and the tea shops of China. Explore some of the culinary roots of Portland with house favorites like yakatori skewers, noodles or umami veggies. Currently available for pickup or delivery only. Hours: Thursday-Tuesday, 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Location: 2131 SE 11th Ave., Portland
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LA PERLITA In 2019, La Perlita owner Angel Medina sold two of his coffee shops, Kiosko and Con Leche, to spend time in Mexico learning more about coffee at the source. When he came back to Portland in March 2020, pandemic shutdowns were beginning and business prospects were looking bleak. Medina’s shop, La Perlita in the Pearl District’s Ecotrust Building, however, has pivoted and reached new heights during the pandemic. With an all-BIPOC staff, it has become a (socially distanced) community space that is welcoming and safe for its customer base, which Medina estimates is about 85 percent BIPOC. The space also hosts other BIPOC pop-ups nearly every day. Matutina by República is one, serving Mexican-inspired pastries. Matutina loosely translated means the morning shift, and these pastries paired with a coffee (don’t skip the true Mexican mocha) is just the right amount of food to hold you over. From guava cream-cheese danishes to classic conchas, Matutina is operated mostly by women who are putting their spin on classic Mexican pastries. Hours: Daily, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Location: 721 NW 9th Ave., Portland. See La Perlita’s social media for rotating popups within the space.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 74 ADVENTURE 76 LODGING 78 TRIP PLANNER 80
pg. 74 Consider this your secret password to a clandestine, subterranean trove of 400 whiskeys at the prohibition-era Central Hotel in Burns.
Chris Murray
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84
yes THE MOST OREGON PART OF OREGON
… we have waterfalls, kayaking and fishing, and wildlife viewing is guaranteed along hiking trails or on a laid-back country drive. No traffic jams here—only serene beauty, natural adventures and everything else you’re coming to Oregon for. Visit TravelSalem.com or call 503-581-4325 to get started!
travel spotlight
At the Central Hotel in Burns, The Boiler Room has 400 bottles of whiskey. You can taste some on the house, but you have to find them.
Shot in the Dark In Burns, only those in the know get into The Boiler Room’s secret whiskey stash written by Shirley A. Hancock photography by Chris Murray
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travel spotlight
WHILE RESTORING the prohibition-era Central Hotel in Burns, residents Jen and Forrest Keady discovered a 500-square-foot-space hidden deep beneath the lobby. It had a distinctly mysterious, seedy, bootlegger vibe, said Jen Keady, a history buff and restoration junkie who grew up in the Eastern Oregon town. She got to work. Using repurposed lumber, brick and metals, the Keadys created a secret, underground lair that celebrates the 1920s age of the speakeasies, the juice joints, the blind tigers. They call their’s The Boiler Room. You won’t find much on their website and there’s no password, but a whispered inquiry to the proprietors may get you a tour—and complimentary tasting. Through the dead-bolted door that reads, “Private. Boiler Room,” down the creaky wooden staircase, dimly lit by red lights and lined with whiskey bottles, and you’re in. The hulking form of the hotel’s original boiler, at once menacing and amusing with coal-door eyes and a mouthful of whiskey bottles, greets you. Every dark nook and cranny harbors a bottle, 400 bottles total. Taste one, taste them all. Some are on the house, you just have to find them. “We hand you a glass and invite you to go on a scavenger hunt,” said Jen Keady. “We can tell what to find, or you can explore on your own and
ask for a sample. It’s a really fun place to explore and discuss travels and tastes.” Seventeen whiskey-making countries are represented, from Austria and Israel to India and the Dominican Republic. Practice your best Icelandic toast, “hvernig skálarðu” with a shot of Smoked Sheep Dung Reserve. (Short on trees, Iceland uses dried sheep dung to smoke the malt.) There are whiskeys culled from defunct distilleries: Van Winkle, Kentucky Owl, High Wheeler and some rare Blanton’s. Take a shot of Blood Oath, 98.6 proof, the same as the temperature of human blood. Be the first to swig Pabst Blue Ribbon (yes) Whiskey, which claims it’s been “aged six seconds” and a local blueberry moonshine which, oddly, everyone wants to try after reading this review: “I think I’m blind, this is so bad.” Whiskey shy? There’s pineapple, coffee habanero, orange, butterscotch, huckleberry, pecan flavored whiskeys. Even whiskey snobs love the peanut butter flavor, we’re told. Some bottles have never been discovered. Find some and stay in one of the twelve rooms, with names such as Flapper Girl or Moonshine. Do some of the brightest stargazing in the West, high desert hot springs, bird sanctuaries and the Steens Mountains—and raise a glass to Harney County wonders.
“We hand you a glass and invite you to go on a scavenger hunt. We can tell what to find, or you can explore on your own and ask for a sample. It’s a really fun place to explore and discuss travels and tastes.” — Jen Keady, Central Hotel co-owner
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adventure
Shooting one of the Rogue River’s dozens of whitewater rapids with Momentum Outfitters in Ashland.
Go with the Flow
A surge of river rafting options tempts veterans and novices, too written by Eric Flowers
WHITEWATER AND RIVER RUNNING is embedded in Oregon’s soul. Native Americans navigated the waters that connected our state long before the first wagon roads. The Lewis and Clark expedition relied on an untamed Columbia to complete their epic journey. Thankfully, some of Oregon’s greatest rivers can still be experienced much the same as more than a century ago. Whether you’re an old salt or a rank novice, Oregon offers a river adventure to awaken your soul to the wonders that lie just around the bend. We reached out to some of Oregon’s most experienced guides and outfitters to help plan your next adventure.
Rogue River TYPE: MULTI-DAY Perhaps no river has better captured the spirit of Oregon’s river wilderness than the Rogue. The river emerges on the flank of Crater Lake National Park and cuts a rugged and remote path to the Pacific. The Rogue’s unspoiled beauty and wild nature earned it a spot among the eight rivers singled out for protection by Congress in the original 1968 Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. The Rogue offers plenty of whitewater thrills with dozens of rapids, culminating in the infamous Blossom Bar, a rapid that so confounded boaters in the early years that it was eventually dynamited to create a clear passage. Pete Wallstrom, owner of 76 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Momentum Outfitters in Ashland launches two trips a week on the Rogue through the summer season. Momentum specializes in experiences that include high-end touches such as organic produce at meals. Since launching Momentum twenty years ago, Wallstrom estimates he’s done more than one hundred Rogue trips. While he’s also run rivers from Nepal to Chile, the Rogue endures as a must-see, he said. “There are very few places like the Rogue, the combination of spots like Mule Creek Canyon that’s so accessible (for boaters) and really unique. And just the river itself is an amazing wilderness trip, but it’s something that a wide range of people can do, and it’s so Pacific Northwest. It’s everything that you imagine a river trip to be,” Wallstrom said.
adventure
Klamath River (Oregon section) TYPE: SINGLE DAY An engineering anomaly is responsible for creating one of the most heart-pounding whitewater runs in our state. A daily “pulse” of water, a byproduct of power production at the John C. Boyle Dam, acts as a hydraulic catapult which boaters surf through the canyon. Commercial guides such as Phoenix-based Indigo Creek time their trips to coincide with this surge of fun. By early evening the water recedes, leaving the roaring river flowing at a relative trickle until the following day’s release. There’s a caveat here: this marriage of electrical power and rafting on the Klamath may soon dissolve. In late 2022, this dam and several others are scheduled to be removed as part of a vast interstate river restoration agreement. It’s a bittersweet development for Will Volpert who owns Indigo Creek with his wife, Julie. “We know this is the best thing for the river,” Volpert said. “The explorer in me is looking forward to the dams coming out and the business person in me is really nervous to see what happens.”
John Day River
Deschutes River TYPE: SINGLE AND MULTI-DAY Maupin is the center of all real whitewater action on the lower Deschutes. Multiple rafting companies jockey for customers and position on the water on any given summer day. While most outfitters offer multi-day trips, usually launching at Trout Creek and taking out around Maupin, the bread and butter of the rafting business is the stretch around town that begins at Wapinitia Rapids and ends at Sandy Beach, the last takeout before the non-navigable Sherars Falls. As a single-day trip, the Deschutes is an excellent introduction to summer whitewater rafting. Stick around after your float by booking a well-appointed room at the riverside Imperial Inn where you can grab an ale and nosh on a burger featuring beef from the hotel owners’ nearby Imperial Stock Ranch. If you’re feeling frisky, head across the old steel bridge to downtown Maupin and the Rainbow Bar where you’re likely to find your river guides tipping back a cold one and swirling in the eddy of river town nightlife. Yee-haw!
Photos: Momentum River Expeditions
TYPE: SINGLE AND MULTI-DAY One of the longest undammed rivers in the country, the John Day River’s main stem originates in the Strawberry Mountains and cuts a meandering course through forests and range country. This makes it a great option for inexperienced boaters to plan a DIY trip with friends and family. Most trips begin at Service Creek, where a small hotel, raft rental and shuttle service operates. A nearby boat launch provides ready access to a one-day float. Some groups make it a two or three-day trip, perfect for the John Day’s
leisurely pace. More ambitious boaters can make the 48mile trip to Clarno, a float that will take you past the perimeter of the old Rajneesh ranch, where a controversial guru built a city of followers in the 1980s, sparking conflict and a national scandal. Relax and float downstream to less fraught wilderness areas, including the majestic Cathedral Rock. Service Creek Stage Stop co-owner Linda Tagg said business usually picks up in May as temperatures climb and smallmouth bass fishing picks up. If you’re entertaining a DIY trip this season, plan ahead. Demand for rental boats and U.S. Bureau of Land Management river launch permits will heat up during warm weather months, said Tagg.
The Rogue River is considered to be one of the world’s classic river experiences.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 77
lodging
AIRSTREAMS These fabulously restored gems will prompt nostalgia. For example, the 29-foot “Arrowhead,” a 1971 Land Yacht Sovereign Airstream has hardwood floors, a black leather sofa sleeper and four updated bunk-style beds with comfy mattresses. Your yard opens to the Airstream “Kumbaya” next door, so the two can be combined for expanded living space. The Kumbaya has a queen bed, expanded dining area space, wood floor planks, funky backsplashes and wallpaper accents. Both of them welcome dogs, too.
FEATURES At Hart’s Camp in Pacific City, the Airstream Hotel has seven streamlined trailers with private yards and warm-weather beach cruisers.
Lodging
Hart’s Camp written by Lauren Sharp GRAB YOUR RAIN SHELL, hiking boots and experience some serious camp vibes while reveling in the amenities of a contemporary hotel. At Hart’s Camp in Pacific City, offbeat luxury reigns at this deluxe retrofitted Airstream hotel. The seven streamlined campers are replete with Mid-century and ’70s decor, with touches such as Pendleton camp cookware and classic Chemex pour-over coffee carafes. The milieu includes modern comforts, too, as each has a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom with Aveda body products and queen size or twin bunk beds with buttery linens. Each has an enclosed private yard with gas grill, picnic table and outdoor shower with a live plant wall. And that firepit? Fresh firewood and enviro-friendly starter is there, so no need to interrupt happy hour with running to pick up supplies. In warmer months, vintage-inspired Linus Bike beach cruisers are at your metal doorstep. Meander across the street to the beach, where Pelican Brewing Company and the Meridian Restaurant and Bar at the Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa offer dining indoors, outdoors or to take out. In the morning, stroll to Stimulus Coffee for an oat milk latte and freshly baked fruit scone, on the way to checking out the tide pools at the beach just steps away. Work it off by running the dunes for staggering views from Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area just a block away or explore Cape Lookout State Park nearby. You’ll feel justified in booking a massage at the Headlands’ spa. End the day beside a campfire in a rustic Adirondack chair, amid the aroma of salt air, roasted s’mores and crisp ale from Pelican, brewed a few hundred yards away. 33145 WEBB PARK RD. PACIFIC CITY www.hartscamp.com
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This location lets you have the beach as your backyard. Hiking, biking, surfing and kayaking are just steps away. Unwinding is easier and faster when you don’t have to drive once you’ve arrived. Evening entertainment is covered by gathering around your fire pit with a Pelican beer from the brewery across the street and the night sky’s brilliant show of stars.
DINING Call for room-service delivered directly to your Airstream for breakfast in bed. In April, you can opt to add on a “Campfire Cookout” at your Airstream. Choose from three meal options and the chef’s team at Meridian Restaurant & Bar will supply the ingredients, cooking instructions and cast iron cookware, and staff will deliver it to your trailer. Or stroll to Meridian for upscale dining options or to Pelican Brewing for casual pub fare.
AMENITIES Full indoor kitchens are stocked with dishes, cookware and coffee maker. Flat screen TVs with cable and Wi-Fi, bathrooms with showers, air conditioning and outdoor showers with a living plant wall along with luxury linens add to the comforts. Airstreams have gas grills with propane and private, fenced outdoor living spaces with lush green grass and are dog friendly.
Prineville has a wealth of locally-owned shops, restaurants and businesses. Explore Prineville and discover all the places to eat, shop and play. And while you’re here be sure to thank our small business owners for keeping their doors open.
’
Come spend a day with us, you ll be glad you did.
info@prinevillechamber.com
541-447-6304
prinevillechamber.com
trip planner
Battle Rock Park is the place for great scenery and whalewatching opportunities.
Small Town Coastal Nirvana
The Pacific beckons: extreme cliffs, ocean paddling, scenic pedaling and rewarding comforts
Enjoy Port Orford
written by Chet Evers
NAMED IN 1792 after George, Earl of Orford, Port Orford had been a quiet Pacific coastal area that was home to the Tututni tribe of the Lower Rogue Athabascan tribes in what would become southwestern Oregon. As part of a well-known series of events, European explorers encountered the tribe in the eighteenth century and wiped out the majority of Native American populations with small pox and measles. Not long after, white settlers came to town on the Oregon Trail and made land claims under the premise of Manifest Destiny. Another claim to new statehood came in 1941 from Port Orford mayor Gilbert Gable, a tireless attention seeker who 80 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
MARCH | APRIL 2021
complained of the lack and quality of roads and threatened to secede from Oregon to join California, founding the elusive State of Jefferson movement. The small fishing town with the westernmost port in the lower forty-eight was officially on the map. Today, Port Orford is known for its austere coastal beauty and its warmth from the southern Oregon Coast’s so-called Brookings effect, where warmer air from east of the Cascades is pushed over the Oregon Coast Range and up along the coast from Brookings to Port Orford. Under these conditions, we begin our trip.
TOWERING CLIFFS • KAYAKING • FISH AND CHIPS Pack binoculars and head first to Port Orford Heads State Park for a 1.2-mile hike that will set the foundation for the weekend. On the cliffs above the Pacific, you begin the lollipop-shaped hike at the parking lot and work your way up to the lifeboat station. The lifeboat station is now a museum that honors the brave lifeboat rescue teams that once watched over the raging sea below. Here you’ll see one of the original selfrighting lifeboats from which rescuers would pluck sailors and soldiers from the perilous waters. Hike onward to the Port Orford Lookout Tower, where spotters would spy signs of distress. This is a good place to get out the binoculars and hunt for whale spouts. Then head back on the Headland Trail while getting views of Cape Blanco, which you’ll see closer later in this visit. For the budding botanists, ferns, salal thickets, irises and coast lilies to name a few are among the natural sights along the trail. Natural experiences are what Port Orford promises. One of the best ways to immerse yourself in coastal nature is with an ocean wildlife kayak tour through South Coast Tours. A 4-mile paddle brings oyster catchers, cormorants, harbor seals and, depending upon the season, the sight of grey whales. Finish the day with another mandatory experience at The Crazy Norwegian’s Fish & Chips, where halibut and chips and the house-made clam chowder are required eating. You’re not done until you’ve ordered the house-made pie for dessert.
Oregon State Parks
Day
South Coast Tours
trip planner
Day Start your day with a great cup of coffee and a pastry at One Lump or Two in a tiny cottage on 6th Street. Fill your water bottles and lycra up before saddling up. No trip to Port Orford should be undertaken without a road or gravel bike on the car. In 2009, Travel Oregon and local partners began plotting bike routes that highlight the most beautiful views around the state. One of the finest of these rides is the Wild Rivers Coast Scenic Bikeway. Two routes begin in Port Orford with one pointing north and west to Cape Blanco State Park (20 miles roundtrip), and another trailing south and east along the placid Elk River to Butler Bar Campground (45 miles roundtrip). After you’ve put in an Olympic effort on your bike, schedule a massage in your cabin at WildSpring Guest Habitat, an ecofriendly luxury resort with electric-vehicle power stations. Or just hit the open-air slate hot tub with views of the ocean before tonight’s dinner. Make reservations at Redfish, where the menu celebrates local fish sans that Oregon Coast hallmark,
WildSpring Guest Habitat
EPIC AND SCENIC CYCLING • REDFISH REWARD
FROM TOP Ocean kayaking with South Coast Tours gets you close to marine wildlife. Port Orford Heads State Park has hiking, history and lovely views. Unwind at WildSpring Guest Habitat, an eco-friendly luxury resort with a slate hot tub overlooking the ocean.
MARCH | APRIL 2021
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 81
PORT ORFORD, OREGON
trip planner
EAT The Crazy Norwegian’s Fish & Chips www.the-crazy-norwegiansfish-and-chips.business.site One Lump or Two www.facebook.com/ OneLumpOrTwo Redfish www.redfishportorford.com Tasty Kate’s Cafe & Bakery www.facebook.com/TastyKates
STAY Castaway by the Sea www.castawaybythesea.com Enjoy Port Orford
Floras Lake House by the Sea www.floraslake.com WildSpring Guest Habitat www.wildspring.com
PLAY Cape Blanco State Park www.stateparks.oregon.gov Rogue River Jetboats www.roguejets.com
Wild Rivers Coast Scenic Bikeway www.traveloregon.com/thingsto-do/outdoor-recreation/ bicycling/wild-rivers-coastscenic-bikeway
Ron Schwager
South Coast Tours www.southcoasttours.net
breading. With seared scallops, sauteed mussels, local fish tacos and cioppino on the menu, Redfish is a welcome culinary alternative to the breaded-or-die aficionados along the coast. Astute observers surmise that breading, itself, may have slowed the State of Jefferson movement to a crawl. Redfish also offers the rare creative cocktail menu along the nearly 400 miles of the Oregon Coast.
Day CAPE BLANCO • BREAKFAST CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Cape Blanco Lighthouse is the oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon Coast. An aerial view of Port Orford’s extreme cliffs. Tasty Kate’s Cafe & Bakery’s flaky fruit turnovers are morning musts. Redfish is the place for a modern food and drink experience.
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Morning breaks along with anticipation of breakfast at Tasty Kate’s Cafe & Bakery. The cedar-shingled cottage on Highway 101 is hard to miss, dressed in purple, orange, turquoise and yellow. Inside, hippiedom as well as foodie nirvana are refreshing surprises for the former State-of-Jefferson aspiring MARCH | APRIL 2021
town. House-made fruited cheese danish, fruit turnovers, muffins and croissants are all sweet complements to your morning coffee drink. Pack one of Tasty Kate’s chicken pot pies for lunch and push off for Cape Blanco State Park for history and photography. Cape Blanco Lighthouse was first lit December 20, 1870 and is now the oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon Coast. There, above the treacherous waters on the most western point of the contiguous states, a series of longtime lighthouse keepers lived. Their names were James Langlois and James Hughes, each serving approximately forty years through unruly winter storms and inhospitable conditions. When conditions are favorable, this is also one of the state’s most coveted spots for photos and selfies, with the Cape Blanco Lighthouse in the background and its history at the top of mind.
Beautifully Updated Throughout
Awarded No.14 out of 100 Best in Oregon!
Bandon Inn “Overlooking Old Town to the Pacific”
Complimentary transportation to all your favorite local courses! Includes local airport transportation.
355 HIGHWAY 101, BANDON, OR 97411 | 1.800.526.0209 | WWW.BANDONINN.COM
Chris Boone
northwest destination
Purple Haze Lavender offers vacation rentals starting May 16.
Fjord to Forest
Explore classic Pacific Northwest surroundings from a cozy base in Sequim SEQUIM IS TINY but mighty. This small town on the northern tip of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is a charming base for exploring classic Pacific Northwest outdoor treasures. Driving there primes you for the experience. Heading north on Highway 101, trace your way along the natural fjord that is the Hood Canal, one of the major basins of the Puget Sound. Let your mind drift to thoughts of marine life and its bounty, heightening the anticipation of lunch at Hama Hama Oysters in Lilliwaup. In 4.5 miles north in Hoodsport, grab a cone of locally made Olympic Mountain Ice Cream at Hoodsport Coffee Co. to make the drive that much sweeter. Stay in a marine mindset in Sequim by making your base atop a bluff overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca. At the George Washington Inn, a luxurious bed and breakfast on 10 acres near Olympic National Park, take in the views of the Pacific Ocean, Olympic Range and the estate’s lavender farm. The Colonial design emulates George Washington’s Mount Vernon home. Or, keep it rustic at Sunset Marine Resort’s cabins, with wood stoves, kayak rentals for exploring the waters of Sequim Bay just outside your door and a pet-friendly policy, too. When making your itinerary, include the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge. As one of the longest sand spits on the planet, its grass beds create the fertile habit that attracts migrating shorebirds throughout spring and fall. Its isolated beach harbors harbor seals and their pups, and salmon and steelhead have nurseries for their young here, too. With more than 600 acres and more than 250 species of birds, Homo sapiens enjoy the habitat by walking miles of sandy beach and listening to waves lap against driftwood. The next day’s excursion should be a 10-mile roundtrip hike to the New Dungeness Lighthouse, which still guides mariners navigating the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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City of Sequim
written by Molly Allen
northwest destination
SEQUIM, WASHINGTON
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Dungeness Spit offers a stunning view of the Pacific. New Dungeness Lighthouse has been guiding mariners since 1857. Sequim has charming shops and restaurants. George Washington Inn is a luxurious property with Colonial style. Fishing on the Upper Dungeness River is one of many ways to relax around Seqium.
EAT Dockside Grill www.docksidegrill-sequim.com Peninsula Taproom www.peninsulataproom.com Nourish Sequim www.nourishsequim.com Rainshadow Café www.rainshadow-cafe. business.site Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery www.panedamore.com Alderwood Bistro www.alderwoodbistro.com
STAY George Washington Inn www.georgewashingtoninn.com Sunset Marine Resort www.facebook.com/ Sunset.Marine.Resort Dungeness Bay Cottages www.dungenessbay cottages.com Eden by the Sea www.edenbythesea.net
Chris Boone
Juan de Fuca Cottages www.juandefuca.com
PLAY Graysmarsh Farm www.graysmarsh.com
City of Sequim
City of Sequim
Chris Boone
Fleurish Lavender of Lost Mountain www.fleurishlavender.com
Nearby, the Olympic National Forest protects nearly a million acres of wilderness, including old-growth temperate rainforests, more than 70 miles of wild coastline and sandy beaches for tidepooling, lakes for paddling and fishing and a lifetime’s worth of hiking on trails dotted with gushing waterfalls. Back in Sequim, the Olympic Discovery Trail will prompt you to join the bike friendly culture. The 120-mile, partially paved trail links Port Townsend to Port Angeles, tracing the Pacific shoreline and views of mountains and classic Pacific Northwest forests along the way. These adventures will make you crave local cuisine. Head to Nourish Sequim, which celebrates the area’s culinary artisans who raise, grow, forage and catch the ingredients of the dishes prepared here and served in a farmhouse atmosphere. End the afternoon with a pint at the Peninsula Taproom, offering a casual vibe with a long list of tap options. Dine waterside at Dockside Grill, with Olympic Mountain views, steaks and classics such as freshly made linguine with clams in an herb, garlic and white wine butter sauce. At the end of the day, raise a glass of something white and crisp while watching the sun set over Sequim Bay. MARCH | APRIL 2021
Purple Haze Lavender www.purplehazelavender.com Washington Lavender www.walavender.com Olympic Game Farm www.olygamefarm.com
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 85
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
22 Proust Coffee
42 OpConnect
74
Central Hotel
23 Brooks Winery
44 John Day Bike Park
76
Momentum River Expeditions
24 Crater Lake Farm
45 Merryn Roberts-Huntley
78
Hart’s Camp
30 Odell Lake
46 Tallwood Design Institute
80
WildSpring Guest Habitat
36 YoYoYogi
48 McKenzie Community Development Corporation
84
Sequim, Washington
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Photo: Kay Gerdes
Sunshine for all Seasons!
1-800-737-8462 visitsunnysequim.com
Bike Hike Glide Breathe
Please visit our website for upcoming events.
Please Recreate Responsibly
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
Until Next Time The Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival near Woodburn. photo by Ian Stout
The power tool for curious minds.
Full Spectrum News | opb.org 1859_slogans-2020.indd 2
7/28/20 9:08 AM
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Continue for Special Insert
2021
PUT ON YOUR PRE-2020 PANTS.
At Northern Quest, the new normal can be just as fun as the old normal. Grab your mask and come play all your favorite slots and table games on the casino floor. Relax in our world-class day spa. Treat yourself to a delicious variety of restaurants and lounges. Or just kick back in our amenity-rich hotel or luxury RV resort with the Northwest’s ultimate entertainment experience right outside your door. Masks required for all guests. To see all of our COVID-19 safety precautions, visit northernquest.com/covid-19-information. NORTHERNQUEST.COM | 877.871.6772 | SPOKANE, WA
Planning Your Trip
Spokane
Straddling the cosmopolitan and the outdoors
RISING
rom an unfairly maligned second city to an important cultural destination, Spokane has grown into a city that now strikes the elusive balance of cosmopolitan delights with an abundance of outdoor pursuits.
The anchors of Spokane institutions such as Gonzaga University, WSU Health Sciences, Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture, Bing Crosby Theater, Fox Theater, the Knitting Factory, the reimagined Riverfront Plaza and the repurposed iconic Steam Plant are all foundational to the city’s emergence as Washington’s next big thing. The love and effort that has gone into rebuilding the city in a smarter, more sustainable way over the past decade is coming into
view. Named one of the nation’s ten “Smart Cities,” business and government are collaborating in using innovative technologies to address energy, water, waste and air quality issues. The medical school affiliated with Washington State University is the second in the state and Gonzaga University’s partnership with University of Washington expands medical curricula in Eastern Washington. Taken together, against a beckoning backdrop of forests, lakes, rivers
4 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021
and mountain peaks, Spokane has become a love affair consumed by sophisticated cultural touches and adrenaline-peaking outings. It has been a long quarantine. Indulge your body and mind with some of Spokane’s cultural institutions. Begin with a day of shopping, because athleisure was so 2020. Shops at River Park Square (Nike, Nordstrom, Athleta, Williams Sonoma) and boutiques populate downtown Spokane while Kendall Yards brings a fresh avenue for shoppers
Photo: Jason Hummel/Washington Tourism Alliance
F
written by Jack Demming
Photos, from top: Jason Hummel/Washington Tourism Alliance, RÜT Bar & Kitchen, Jon Jonckers
Spokane Falls flows through a downtown packed with boutiques, restaurants and fun.
north of the river. Boutique Bleu, Lolo Boutique and Cues Clothing are a just a few of the options for women’s clothing. Next it’s on to wine tasting in between shops. Washington is known for its Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah) and Rhone (grenache, mourvèdre) varietals and bright chardonnays. The downtown core’s “cork district” now has more than eight tasting rooms to choose from, including Cougar Crest, Va Piano, Barrister and others. Overlooking the Spokane River from Kendall Yards is the handsome new Maryhill Winery tasting room and Craftsman Cellars. The options for creative and excellent dining are endless in the constantly sophisticating Spokane. Farm-to-table cuisine is in full harvest at vegan RÜT Bar & Kitchen. Hit The Flying Goat for pizza and Waddell’s Neighborhood Pub & Grill for burgers. Pre-theater cocktails
INSIDE
are best done at Hunt, Hogwash Whiskey Den and Bistango Martini Lounge. Though there are plenty of fashionable cocktail caves, a full night of entertainment still lies ahead. Perhaps no two stages better represent Spokane’s entertainment scene than Fox Theater and Bing Crosby Theater. Home to the Spokane Symphony, the beautifully restored Art Deco Fox Theater was built in 1931 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The talented Spokane Symphony is reason enough to go. Bing Crosby Theater, or “The Bing,” has its own rich history, built in 1915 by Danish immigrant August Paulsen, who made his fortune in nearby silver mining. At its opening, The Spokesman-Review quipped that the theater had an “atmosphere of richness over everything.” Today, that richness is the backdrop for top music and comedy acts, as well as film festivals.
6-8 Dining & Drinks 10 Lodging
FROM TOP RÜT Bar & Kitchen offers a vegan take on traditional dishes. The Centennial Trail spans 40 miles, with a paved path for cyclists and runners.
12 Getting Outside 14 Arts & Culture 5 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021
The night isn’t over until you’ve tested your luck at the craps tables at Northern Quest Resort & Casino. Grab your partner and head to the game tables to try your luck before a nightcap. The hotel and spa at Northern Quest make it a destination of its own. Lodging downtown is world class. There is the new Hotel Indigo, Ruby Hotels, Oxford Suites, the classic Spokane Club and the Davenport Collection featuring the luxurious Davenport mattress. A good night’s sleep is requisite for a full slate of recreation tomorrow. There is no better place to begin your day than getting your caffeine fix at First Avenue Coffee before heading out for a walk or run along the renovated Riverfront Park. Paved multipurpose trails, sculpture gardens, university campuses and architecture gazing are de rigueur on the banks of the Spokane River. You can find more paddling options farther upriver where rafters and standup paddlers put in for a thrill or a chill. Cyclists will find good terrain along the Centennial Trail, a 40-mile paved path that starts 9 miles northwest of Spokane at Sontag Park in unincorporated Nine Mile Falls before breezing through Spokane and east to the Idaho border. Mount Spokane State Park, 30 miles northeast of the city, is home to more than 100 miles of trails for hiking or trail running. Thanks to a dedicated crew of trail-grooming locals, Mount Spokane is a top cross-country skiing venue, too.
A publication of Statehood Media www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com
Cover photo: Jason Hummel/Washington Tourism Alliance
Dining & Drinks Ruins Comfort, Japanese, eclectic, creative cocktails and food www.ruinsspokane.com Zona Blanca Ceviche from star chef Chad White www.limefishsalt.com
BURGERS Wisconsinburger Fresh ground burgers from Washington Angus www.wisconsinburger.com Durkin’s Liquor Bar Burgers and old-fashioneds www.durkinsliquorbar.com Wooden City’s fried chicken sandwich, a taste of many palate-pleasers throughout Spokane.
Hangry’s Killer burgers in Spokane Valley www.hangrysspokanevalley.com
PIZZA
New culinary fun, from libations, sushi and steaks to vegan, worldly and wood-fired
Veraci in Kendall Yards Gourmet applewood-fired pies www.veracispokane.com
he dining scene in Spokane is fun, sophisticated and growing. Star chefs are finding second acts or their primary home in Spokane, to the delight of foodies. While protein has always been there for the taking, new creative vegan options are making the scene, too. New bars and breweries are moving into Spokane’s beautiful stock of buildings downtown, signaling a new golden era for downtown Spokane.
The Flying Goat Wood-fired artisan pizza with local ingredients www.theflyinggoat.com
T
Please note: Due to the effects of the pandemic, please check each venue’s website to verify its status before visiting.
NEW Magnolia American Brasserie at Hotel Indigo A gourmet American brasserie with a French twist www.facebook.com/ Magnolia-AmericanBrasserie-101549228115925 Wooden City, Spokane A fried chicken sandwich with a restaurant built around it www.woodencityspokane.com
Bark, A Rescue Pub Upscale pub fare with a chance at pet adoption on the side www.barkrescuepub.com
FAVES The Grain Shed Craft beer and three-day fermented breads lead the offerings at this artisan eatery www.thegrainshed.coop
Umi Kitchen and Sushi Bar A new addition to Kendall Yards, Umi is an explosion of color and artistry from chefs Tong Liu and Haru Wang www.umispokane.com Masselow’s Steakhouse at Northern Quest Casino Grilled prime filet mignon from chef Tanya Broesder www.northernquest.com/diningbars/restaurants/masselows
6 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021
Republic Pi Fresh dough, local ingredients, Neapolitan goodness www.republicpi.com Allie’s Vegan Pizzeria House-made, nut-based cheeses and fired in brick ovens www.alliesvegan.com
VEGAN RÜT A new veggie-based ethic in the South Hill District, RÜT has a fresh take on traditional dishes www.rutspokane.com
Photo: Wooden City
Nourishing & Flourishing
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Dining & Drinks Allie’s Vegan Pizzeria House-made pies, nut-based cheeses and fired in brick ovens www.alliesvegan.com Lucky You Lounge A cool cocktail lounge with a penchant for vegan dishes www.luckyyoulounge.com
STEAKS
Spencer’s Steakhouse One reason: Classic pairings www.bit.ly/spencersspokane Churchill’s Steakhouse One reason: Understated and elegant www.churchillssteakhouse.com
BREAKFAST The Yards Bruncheon One reason: Wild huckleberry pancakes www.theyardsbruncheon.com Hello Sugar Mini donuts for all! www.hellosugarspokane.com Dolly’s Corner Café One reason: Eggs Benedict www.dollyscornercafe. restaurantwebexpert.com
BREWERIES Whistle Punk Brewing www.whistlepunkbrewing.com Iron Goat Brewing www.my-site-101810.square.site
Zona Blanca
No-Li Brewhouse www.nolibrewhouse.com Lumberbeard Brewing www.lumberbeardbrewing.com Bellwether Brewing Co. www.bellwetherbrewing.net Steam Plant Brewing www.steamplantspokane.com/ brewery
WINE TASTING ROOMS Maryhill Winery www.maryhillwinery.com/Visit/ Spokane Barrister Winery www.barristerwinery.com Terra Blanca www.terrablanca.com Helix Wines www.helixwine.com Cougar Crest www.cougarcrestwinery.com Barili Cellars www.barilicellars.com
Overbluff Cellars www.facebook.com/OverbluffCellars-107064226003874 Monte Scarlatto Estate Winery www.montescarlatto.com/ renegade
Hogwash Whiskey Den
Tempus Cellars www.tempuscellars.com
SPOKANE VALLEY WINERIES Arbor Crest Wine Cellars www.arborcrest.com Latah Creek Wine Cellars www.latahcreek.com Nodland Cellars www.nodlandcellars.com
Peacock Room Lounge at The Historic Davenport Hotel #TheMostClassy www.davenporthotelcollection.com Tiny Tiki Lounge Tropical cocktails in an intimate setting www.thetinytiki.com
COCKTAILS
Bistango Martini Lounge Spokane’s ultimate lounge experience www.bistangolounge.com
Durkin’s Liquor Bar Reclassified diner with good food and cocktails www.durkinsliquorbar.com
Scratch Dark elegance in downtown Spokane www.scratchspokane.com
Hogwash Whiskey Den The speakeasy basement www.drinkhogwash.com
Twigs Bistro and Martini Bar www.twigsbistro.com/locationsriver-park-square
8 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021
Photos, from top: Visit Spokane, Erin Peterson/Hogwash Whiskey Den
Masselow’s Steakhouse at Northern Quest Resort & Casino A menu based on the four seasons and four-course offerings, too www.northernquest.com/diningbars/restaurants/masselows
Y O U R
C L O S E
Endless events, activities & worldclass attractions
B Y
D E S T I N A T I O N
E S C A P E
Discover a massive theme park, chip onto the world’s only floating golf green, indulge in deluxe accommodations and luxurious spas, explore a lakefront downtown with hundreds of shops and 5-star dining. Every day of every season there are countless ways to play and stay in Coeur d’Alene.
Visit us today at coeurdalene.org
Lodging
Hotel Indigo Spokane
The Historic Davenport Hotel’s classic architecture reflects the glamour of the past century.
From new and boutique-y to historic and comfy, cool and sophisticated places to dream
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ust as the dining scene has taken off in Spokane, so too have the lodging options. The landscape has long been dominated by two competing hoteliers behind The Davenport Collection and Ruby Hospitality. Each hotel group has a diversity of creative and sophisticated takes on lodging. Hotel Indigo, a newbie from International Hotel Group, opened during the pandemic in a beautifully renovated building downtown and with a French-American brasserie. Among this group, there are no bad nights.
The Davenport Collection • Davenport Grand • The Historic Davenport • The Davenport Tower • Davenport Lusso • The Centennial www.davenporthotelcollection.com/ our-hotels Ruby Hospitality Hotels • Ruby River Hotel • The Montvale Hotel • Hotel Ruby • Hotel Ruby2 www.rubyhospitality.com
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Hotel Indigo Spokane www.ihg.com/hotelindigo/hotels/ us/en/spokane/gegdg/hoteldetail The Spokane Club www.spokaneclub.org/STAY Northern Quest Resort & Casino www.northernquest.com Oxford Suites Spokane www.oxfordsuitesspokane.com DoubleTree by Hilton www.hilton.com/en/hotels/spcc-dtdoubletree-spokane-city-center
Photos, clockwise from left: Davenport Hotels, Hotel Indigo Spokane, Visit Spokane
Pillow Talk
The Montvale Hotel
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Getting Outside Dishman Hills Natural Area
Rivers Run Through It
Kalispel Golf and Country Club
Spokane’s forests, lakes, rivers and mountain peaks set the stage for adventure
T
here are big skies in and around Spokane and lots to do beneath them. The golf scene is well developed and varied, offering a season’s worth of golf without having to play the same course twice, unless you wanted. Spokane also has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to trails for hiking and biking and nearby rivers and lakes for kayaking, standup paddling and rafting.
GOLF Esmeralda Golf Course www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/esmeralda Downriver Golf Course www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/downriver Indian Canyon Golf Course www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon
The Creek at Qualchan www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/qualchan Kalispel Golf and Country Club www.northernquest.com/golf Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course www.cdaresort.com Circling Raven Golf Club www.cdacasino.com/golf
HIKING & BIKING Mount Spokane State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/549/ Mount-Spokane Spokane Riverfront Park www.my.spokanecity.org/ riverfrontspokane Dishman Hills Natural Area www.dishmanhills.org
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Riverside State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/573/ Riverside High Drive Bluff www.friendsofthebluff.org/ trail-maps
PADDLING Riverside State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/573/ Riverside Spokane Parks & Recreation www.my.spokanecity.org/parksrec Liberty Lake www.spokanecounty.org/Facilities/ Facility/Details/Liberty-LakeRegional-Park-39 Spokane River www.spokaneriver.net/watertrail/ category/recreational-resources
Photos, from left: Visit Spokane, Kalispel Golf and Country Club, Aaron Theisen/Washington Tourism Alliance
Riverside State Park, 12,000 acres on the Spokane and Little Spokane rivers near Nine Mile Falls.
Arts & Culture
From Bing to Nirvana ... and every cool thing in between: Spokane’s burgeoning arts scene spans many genres
Spokane Symphony www.spokanesymphony.org The Bing Theater www.bingcrosbytheater.com Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox www.foxtheaterspokane.org The Knitting Factory www.sp.knittingfactory.com Northern Quest Resort & Casino www.northernquest.com
Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture www.northwestmuseum.org
Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox
Historic Flight Foundation www.historicflight.org Chase Gallery www.spokanearts.org/ programs/chase-gallery Jundt Art Museum www.gonzaga.edu/student-life/ arts-culture/jundt-art-museum Historic Flight Foundation
Jundt Art Museum’s “Seven Years of Acquisitions, 2013-2020” exhibition includes works by Ansel Adams, Marc Chagall, Andy Warhol and more.
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Photos, from top: Visit Spokane, Historic Flight Foundation, Zack Berlat/Gonzaga University
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he Spokane arts culture is thriving across many venues, galleries and stages. From performing arts, to cool music venues and inspired art collections, the Lilac City is as cultured as it is sporty.
WHEN IT’S TIME TO FLY Now Offering Nonstop Service to
17 DESTINATIONS Throughout the U.S. Seattle
Portland Boise Salt Lake Sacramento City San Jose Denver Las Vegas Los Angeles Orange Phoenix County San Diego
Minneapolis
San Francisco Oakland
Dallas
Atlanta
Ft. Worth
Great parking options with low rates. PLUS, A COMPLIMENTARY CAR WASH! GARAGE $11.00/DAY
OUTSIDE $6.00/DAY
For real time arrival and departure flight information, go to www.spokaneairports.net.
THE INLAND NORTHWEST’S PREMIER SHOPPING CENTER River Park Square Shopping Center unites world class brands and local favorites in the heart of Spokane. There’s always something new to be discovered, just steps away from Riverfront Park, Centennial Trail, hotel accomodations and all downtown has to offer. NORDSTROM • APPLE • LUSH • AMC 20 THEATRES WITH IMA X • POTTERY BARN • STCU URBAN OUTFITTERS • SEPHORA • FREE PEOPLE • NIKE • ANTHROPOLOGIE
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(Don’t forget: convenient covered parking for all your adventures.)
