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Fall Fests + Farm Trails
A Mount Shasta Getaway
Central Oregon Fat Biking
ROASTED CARROTS + FRESH TOMATOES OREGON CHEFS’ ELEVATED GAME RECIPES
BRINGING
CLASSICAL MUSIC TO WILD SPACES
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Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming soon, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood. Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.
Ahhh... November.
Be a beer champion during Bend Ale Trail Month.
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Neighbors fighting wildfires together. Delivering food in times of need. Standing up for each others’ rights and hopes. Our communal hardships have rekindled in us a great, unifying strength — kindness. So elemental, yet so brave. Awakened by an urgent need for connection and compassion. Kindness has inspired us to listen. To learn. To lend a hand. To take care of each other. Now we have the opportunity to keep it lit. Let's not let it smolder. Let's fan the embers in our hearts. Let's keep kindness at the forefront of our lives, and live as open examples of it. Kindness inspires kindness. And here, in our Oregon, that is what makes us — neighborly.
PHOTO: VOLUNTEERS BUILD OLGA HERNANDEZ A LIFE-CHANGING WHEELCHAIR RAMP
NeighbORly [ INSPIRING KINDNESS ACROSS OREGON ]
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Bounty & Family Fun
Harvest Season in Mt. Hood Territory When fall arrives in full color in Mt. Hood Territory, it presents itself as the best incarnation of harvest season and Halloween. Farm stands are teeming with produce, farms roll out holiday preparations and kids are buzzing with anticipation. While Mt. Hood Territory includes Oregon’s winter playground surrounding Mt. Hood, it is also home to some of the state’s most fertile farms. From September through the end of holiday season, farms throughout this region are in top form as they host harvest festivals, u-pick pumpkin patches, easy hay rides, intriguing corn mazes and beer gardens with local brews, too. Put one of these family outings on your calendar for this fall, and watch your kids thrive in the outdoors of Mt. Hood Territory.
a corn maze, a hay wagon ride, an art area for painting pumpkins, paintball shooting gallery and a beer garden for adults.
The Wenzel Farm Halloween Fantasy Trail is the creation of Wayne and Janice Wenzel of Oregon City. Imagine 1,000 feet of lighted walkways in the woods, decorated for Halloween and Christmas. Kids will also discover a towering castle, a suspension bridge, a maze and a pumpkin patch.
After a packed day at the farms in Canby, hit King’s Farm to Table Canby Market, a country store and urban market in downtown Canby. Find more goods from regional farms and a deli serving grand portions.
Close out your day at one of Oregon City’s craft breweries–Coin Toss Brewery or Oregon City Brewing Company, where you can get a bratwurst or great burger with your local beer. The Flower Farmer in Canby offers its Boo Train ride on a milelong excursion through its pumpkin patch, hay castles, in and out of tunnels and around the farm. Pulled by an enormous pumpkinshaped engine, the miniature train on its own set of narrow gauge tracks, brings loads of kids and parents through Halloween settings. Let your kids dive into an autumnal wonderland at Fir Point Farms just outside of Canby. Every Saturday and Sunday in October, the farm’s Harvest Festival is a cornucopia of a u-pick pumpkin patch,
On weekend nights in October, get in costume and bring the kids out for Frog Pond Farm’s Spooky Farm Walk, a half-mile forested trail with ghouls and goblins. The 40-acre farm in Wilsonville is home to more than eighty animals including: alpaca, bunnies, camels, chickens, cows, donkeys, ducks, emu, geese, goats, guinea pigs, llamas, pigs, ponies, roosters and sheep. The family fun continues with cornhole, hay towers, a maze, tennis ball slingshots, diggers, mini basketball hoops and more. If that’s not enough for your active crew, take them to Wilsonville’s 126-acre Memorial Park, where you can walk many scenic trails or hit the skate park. End your day at McMenamins Old Church & Pub, a 1911 renovation with wood floors, high ceilings, good food in a family-friendly pub atmosphere.
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Take the family challenge at the four-generation family-run Fiala Farms in West Linn. Known for its challenging 5-acre, 2-mile corn maze, this adds an element of problem-solving to the typical corn maze. Accept the challenge in late September and take pumpkins home from the farm’s pumpkin patch, too! Before you go, stop into one of the best breakfast spots in town, Lark Café. Coffee, lattes, breakfast sandwiches on croissants, chocolate croissants and avocado toast are all on the menu. It’s thrilling to be in Boring’s Liepold Farms during fall. Plan on at least two hours of adventure as you and your family plunder the corn maze, the night-time Dark Maze (with flashlights), take the Dead End Challenge of finding all of the maze’s dead ends, test your skills with an apple slingshot, take a hay ride with the little ones or jump aboard the tractor-pulled Bee Train tour. On weekends, indulge in fresh-made apple cider and donuts. Also take note that Boring Brewing Company is another way to slay boredom. This nano-brewery is known for its specialty handcrafted brews, such as marzen, Scottish ales and the bountiful Boring RyPA.
EAT + DRINK
PLAY
Coin Toss Brewing Company, Oregon City cointossbrewing.com
Wenzel Farm, Oregon City fantasytrail.com
Oregon City Brewing, Oregon City ocbeerco.com King’s Farm to Table Canby Market, Canby kingsfarmtotablecanby market.com McMenamins Old Church & Pub, Wilsonville mcmenamins.com
Flower Farmer, Canby flowerfarmer.com Frog Pond Farm, Wilsonville thefrogpondfarm.com Fiala Farms, West Linn facebook.com/FialaFarms Liepold Farms, Boring liepoldfarms.com
Lark Café, West Linn alliumoregon.com/lark-cafe Boring Brewing Co., Boring/Sandy boringbrewing.com
FIND MORE INFORMATION FOR YOUR OUTINGS AT mthoodterritory.com/events
Piano al Fresco HAVE baby grand, will travel. Hunter Noack brings music to natural settings for the people. (pg. 70)
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
Hunter Noack performs at Smith Rock State Park in 2021 as part of his In a Landscape: Classical Music in the Wild outdoor concert series.
Photos: Arthur Hitchcock for In a Landscape
Attendees dance during an In a Landscape performance at Jack London State Historic Park in Glen Ellen, California, earlier this year.
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70
Flavors of Fall
Classical Music, Liberated
Get cooking with five game recipes from top Oregon chefs.
Classically trained pianist Hunter Noack rolls into Oregon’s most scenic setting with a baby grand and popular demand.
written by Jean Chen Smith
written by Cathy Carroll
76 Artists show their best of Oregon wine terroir at the Art Harvest Studio Tour, nearly three decades old. written by Kerry Newberry
FEATURES SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022 • volume 76
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
Erin Hanson/Art Harvest Studio Tour of Yamhill County
The Artful Way to Explore Oregon’s Wine Country
DEPARTMENTS SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022 • volume 76
LIVE
92
20 NOTEBOOK
The Bridges of Lane County, taking in the Sisters Folk Festival and songs from the heart by Joel Chadd. Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
26 FOOD + DRINK
Hood River Valley Harvest Festival, vineyard lunches and the best cooking classes.
28 FARM TO TABLE
Tomato varietals at Stoneboat Farm, plus heirloom gazpacho and oeuf mayonnaise on tomato toast.
36 HOME + DESIGN
Bathrooms don’t need to be boring. Three bathrooms, one designer, plus how to build a backyard ping pong table and spa-worthy bathroom products for your home.
46 MIND + BODY
Ultimate’s ultimate fan and athlete Jake Johnson.
48 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
The new written and singing voice of the human plight, Willy Vlautin.
THINK 52 STARTUP
Okapi Reusables targets wasteful coffee cups.
54 WHAT’S GOING UP
Libraries make a storied comeback.
56 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Torsten Kjellstrand, UO’s professor of practice in journalism.
58 MY WORKSPACE
26
60 GAME CHANGER
Jason Quigley
Visit Hood River
Lincoln Miller’s Pushdot Studio.
16 17 102 104
48 Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
Elakha Alliance’s quest to re-sea otter the coast.
EXPLORE 84 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Eastern Oregon’s River to Hills Farm Trail.
86 ADVENTURE
Fat tire snow biking getaways.
90 LODGING
Gearhart’s Drifthaven and seaside cottages.
92 TRIP PLANNER
The McKenzie River Valley—hiking, gorgeous falls and brisket.
98 NW DESTINATION
Mount Shasta and its spiritual allure.
COVER
photo by Tambi Lane (see Homegrown Chef, pg. 34)
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
seaside is for Not surfing the internet
The not-so-secret secret to working from home is there are long lunches and video meetings that cancel last minute. You could fill that time doing chores or surfing the internet... at home. Or you could work remotely here in Seaside. Better yet, go rent gear from a local surf shop—even sign up for a lesson—and surf a stunningly beautiful stretch of the coast.
seasideOR.com @visitseasideOR
CONTRIBUTORS
TAMBI LANE Photographer Homegrown Chef
CATHY CARROLL Writer Classical Music, Liberated
DAN HAWK Photographer Farm to Table
JAMES SINKS Writer Trip Planner
“Food feeds and comforts. Food is family and friendship. It is an adventure and the unknown. Food photography has taken me places I never knew I could go. I’ve experienced art in ways I never knew possible, and I am learning to embrace it all. When I said yes to my first food photography project, I was not prepared for where the path would lead. The biggest lesson for me was to just say yes and embrace the road ahead.” (pg. 34)
“With my feet in Whychus Creek, my eyes on a cloudless sky and my ears filled with Ravel, I experienced how Hunter Noack’s project In a Landscape: Classical Music in the Wild puts live performance in a category all its own. Discovering what has influenced him and his drive to make the arts more accessible was truly inspiring.” (pg. 70)
“When I arrived on the farm, and mentioned I was there to see Aaron, they all know where he’d be—out on the tractor working. That’s exactly where I found him. That was the first hint that Stoneboat Farm is a labor of love. The sense of family was palpable, and the camaraderie was easy to see. On top of that, my heart was won over by the fluffy farm dogs that welcomed and escorted me around the farm.” (pg. 28)
“Charlie Chaplin said once that you’ll never find a rainbow if you’re looking down. Keep your head up, and Oregon is filled with breathtaking views and quirky history lessons and stories. So many stories. That’s why I feel so fortunate to find new tales and detours, in all the corners of our beautiful state. And the McKenzie River Valley has it all, from epic hikes to the lore of early drift boaters to the communal spirit as they rebuild from fire. And in the McKenzie, as a reminder to keep your head up, you’ll also find the town of Rainbow. Thanks Charlie.” (pg. 92)
Tambi Lane has lived in Bend since 2003 with her two daughters. She now enjoys time with her partner and two French bulldogs.
12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
From Haiti to the Himalayas, Cathy Carroll has written about some of the world’s most fascinating people and places for many major news outlets. Based in Bend, she never tires of telling the stories of Oregon’s most creative thinkers and singularly beautiful places.
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
Dan Hawk is a freelance editorial and commercial photographer based in Portland, where he lives with his wife, three teenagers and two big dogs.
James Sinks is an awardwinning Oregon journalist, frequent contributor to 1859, and wannabe runner. He lives in Salem, where he tries to stay on his cat’s good side.
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Christopher Dibble, Dan Hawk, Arthur Hitchcock, Tambi Lane, Daniel O’Neil
Headquarters
70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702
835 NW Bond St. Suite 200 Bend, Oregon 97703
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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.
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FROM THE
EDITOR
THE BOUNTY ISSUE appears to us as the season’s dramatic finale of produce from Oregon’s farms. If you are just starting a diet, stop reading here. If not, continue with this issue’s myriad fall farm fare. Begin with the feature with five game recipes from top Oregon chefs. Starting on page 62, you’ll find creative dishes with rabbit, duck, venison, wild boar and elk. Put one on each of your weekend to-do lists for this fall, and let the flavors speak for themselves. Homegrown Chef Thor Erickson comes through with another amusing tale of deceit, drama and carrots. His roasted carrot and miso butter soup is the antidote to bad actors in the park. Read more on page 34, where the Bard meets the bowl. Tomatoes get their day in the sun with an heirloom grower and recipes of oeuf mayonnaise on tomato toast and heirloom tomato gazpacho (pg. 32). Harvest festivals and food trails abound throughout these pages and IRL through the fall and across the state. Find out more in Gastronomy (26) and Travel Spotlight (84). An aural bounty of its own, the piano, when played well and outdoors in some of the most
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iconic settings in the state, is an absolute cultural treat. So it is with Hunter Noack, a classically trained pianist who grew up in Oregon and went to the top schools for music here and abroad, before returning home to roll a grand piano into nature and start playing. “Classical Music, Liberated” on page 70 tells this amazing story. Before you leave the musical realm, check out musician and novelist Willy Vlautin in Artist in Residence on page 48. He pulls off the rare combination of being both a songwriter and an acclaimed author. His talent is on display on these pages and farther afield. The McKenzie River Valley is a vaunted place for those of us who have run its trails and dipped into its lakes, but fall is the best season to be there and do that. In Trip Planner (pg. 92), we look down the trail with some itineraries for your next visit. If you want to take it to a new dimension, head to the spiritual retreat of Mount Shasta. Northwest Destination on page 98 will take you inside the mountain where stories of native spirits and, of course, UFOs are among its lore. Enjoy the harvest of this Bounty Issue!
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HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here.
photo by Brian Mandell On a fall bike ride on the farmland roads outside of Dufur, I turned around to find the majesty of Mount Hood in the distance.
www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard
ENTER TO WIN
MT. HOOD AND COLUMBIA GORGE CULINARY GETAWAY Enter for a chance to win a three-day, two-night culinary getaway to Mt. Hood and the Columbia River Gorge! One grand prize winner will receive a two-night stay at the historic Balch Hotel in Dufur, a MountNbarreL biking wine tour of the Hood River Valley for two, a $50 gift card to Brigham Fish Market, a $50 gift card to Solstice Pizza, a $100 gift card to the Baldwin Saloon, a $50 gift card to Hood River Distillers’ tasting room, a print copy of Tastebound: A Culinary Tour of Oregon’s Mt. Hood & Columbia River Gorge, a Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood guidebook and other local goodies. Ten other lucky winners will receive copies of Tastebound. Enter at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/contests/gorgeculinarygetaway Contest runs October 1-31. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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NOTEBOOK 20 FOOD + DRINK 26 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 36 MIND + BODY 46 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 48
Oregon tomato season and the savory recipes for this fall.
Dan Hawk
pg. 28
bEACHES, bEAC A HES, BREWS AND AC A D FIVE STAR AN A REVIEWS. AR your u gateway ur gat a eway at a to the ay
Southern Sououtuththeherernrn Oregon So Orerregegono Coast Or CCooaoasast
#southernoregoncoast
TRAVELCURRYCOAST.COM TRA R RA AVELCURRY AV R COAST.COM RY
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Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Tidbits + To-dos written by Cathy Carroll
The Bridges of Lane County What’s more romantic than a bike ride over a covered bridge in fall? Pedal or drive amid autumn colors, over six historic covered bridges in Cottage Grove. Reward yourself after completing the Covered Bridges Scenic Bikeway, you’ll be near Main Street, dotted with new breweries including Covered Bridges Brewing Group and staples such as Coast Fork Brewing. Stroll to each spot to sample new brews and culinary pairings. www.eugenecascadescoast.org/blog/post/ craft-beer-covered-bridges
camark y len our da r
In Hood River, this farm is an ideal spot for celebrating the fall harvest with fresh apples, pears and pumpkins. The Pear-Fect Kitchen is pouring cider, wine and beer on draft. The family farm’s bakery uses orchard pears that are so sweet, they sometimes skip the sugar, and they make homemade jams on site daily, too. Hand-dipped ice cream and fresh fruit milkshakes round out the wholesome experience. www.packerorchards.com
Mari Amita
Packer Orchards & Farm Place
Curtain Rising at The Reser The new Patricia Reser Center for the Arts, aka “The Reser,” is offering an eclectic international mix of artists and performances. Pink Martini featuring China Forbes and Storm Large opens the season September 16-18 in the intimate 550-seat Mainstage Theater in Beaverton. Hiromi: The Piano Quintet Ft. Publiquartet appears September 20. Roots music from Amythyst Kiah happens October 5. Jazzy Ash & Red Yarn on October 8 is great for families. www.thereser.org
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A Toast to Fall In the nineteenth century, “rock and rye” was a staple in every corner bar and frontier saloon. Originally, it was just a shot of rye over a chunk of rock candy, or with dried fruit and a bit of spice. The good times still roll when crafting a drink with Crater Lake Spirits’ award-winning rye whiskey. With notes of dark cherry, blood orange and bitters, this Old Fashioned will make a perfect adventure companion.
CAmark LE you ND r AR
Blair Dog
www.craterlakespirits.com/crater-lake-rock-rye
Folk Phenomenon
MotoLodge Pendleton celebrates the open road in downtown Pendleton, known for its legendary rodeo, wool, whisky, adventure seekers and pioneers. The 40-room, independent, renovated 1950s motor-lodge motel has a pool, hot tub, and whisky barrel sauna and dog washing stations. Rest well knowing you’re surrounded by sweeping landscapes, cowboys and wide open roads. The partners, outdoor and motorcycle enthusiasts for years have played key roles Portland’s Jupiter Hotel, the Hood River Hotel and the Campfire Hotel in Bend.
Sisters Folk Festival a nonprofit organization, founded in 1995 to bring fine acoustic music to venues throughout the charming town of Sisters, has developed into a cultural-arts organization that supports local schools, community members, artists and businesses with cultural events year round. The lineup for the signature festival, September 30 through October 2, includes: The Milk Carton Kids, Doreen’s Jazz New Orleans, Le Vent du Nord, David Wilcox, Rainbow Girls, JigJam and The Sweet Water Warblers.
www.motolodge.com
www.sistersfolkfestival.org
Moto Rising
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Musician
Singing From the Heart
Julia Duke
to or playing music was a huge part of my childhood. Whether we were singing in Joel Chadd’s Ghost of You is a deeply the church on Sunday mornings or singing Christmas carols in retirement homes, mupersonal reflection on love, loss and life sic was always a part of our day-to-day life.” written by Ben Salmon When he was 23, Chadd began teaching himself how to play guitar and write songs, and eventually he took his music to Bend, where he formed a folksy bluegrass group called Trailer 31 that attracted a sizable fan base in town. After that band came to an end, however, he decided to explore a different side of his songwriting that had always existed, but hadn’t really seen the light of day. “I always wanted to hear that side come to life someday,” he said. “I guess the timing is right and that day is now.” He’s talking about the release earlier this year of his new solo album Ghost of You, a collection of 10 gorgeous folk-rock songs built around deeply personal lyrics about love, loss and life. There’s a good reason the lyrics are personal: While he was working on them, Chadd’s mother passed away, he married the love of his life and his future father-in-law died. “The saying is simple but true, that when it rains, it pours,” he said. “My life before, during and after the recording of this album was no less than a flood. The songs were my way to draw closer to the moment, a way to connect with the ones I had lost and to reach a deeper understanding of what I was experiencing.” Joel Chadd stands on Chadd recorded Ghost of You at Parkthe shoulders of past way Sounds in Bend, and his songs bengenerations of musicians and goes to the heart. efit from the warm production touch of Parkway’s Scott Oliphant and luscious arrangements that include piano, pedal steel guitar, strings, pump organ and horns. The WHEN JOEL CHADD says he grew up in a musical family and end result is a set of songs that feel poignant and joyful and a music-filled household, you can tell he really means it. multifaceted and ever-evolving He speaks of his grandmother, a singer in San Francisco in and deeply imbued with feelListen on Spotify the early twentieth century, and his father, who played music ing—kind of like life. across Northern California throughout the ’60s and ’70s. He “My dad has always said, ‘Sing listened to renowned classical cellist Yo-Yo Ma and celebrated from the heart.’” Chadd said. folk pianist George Winston as a kid, and the first CD he owned “My songwriting is exactly that. was arguably the greatest work of jazz ever, Kind of Blue by My pursuit to better understand Miles Davis. what’s on my heart and what’s “We grew up singing a lot of harmonies together as a family. weighing on my mind. I have to We listened to a lot of The Beatles, The Temptations, James Tay- share that; it’s my way of connectlor, Bonnie Raitt and Jackson Browne. We watched more musicals ing most with the people and the than I can remember,” Chadd said. “The act of singing, listening world around me.” 22
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ge t-a-g o o d
h ik e-in-
The Rooftop at SCP Redmond
AND STAY! Punctuated with spectacular places and surprises to uncover, Redmond is a hub of good times and unexpected finds in Central Oregon.
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Bibliophile
Creativity, Uncaged A Portland publishing solopreneur embraces creative courage
Kitta Bodmer
interview by Cathy Carroll
Portland author and publisher Laura Stanfill opened the inner circle to other local writers.
What inspired you to create the character of a serinette maker in a small, fictional French town? I grew up with jukeboxes, street organs and music boxes because my parents are avid collectors. Serinettes are high-pitched barrel organs that were used to train canaries in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. I realized writing about this odd piece of musical history would allow me to explore my parents’ passion through my preferred medium–words. My protagonist isn’t sure he wants to spend his life altering birds’ voices—a great setup for exploring themes of society and individuality. I added magic to allow for some imaginative distance from the real village, Mirecourt, which was known for serinettes, violins and bobbin lace. Tell us about creating your own publishing company—does it hinder or help your own writing? If so, how? Forest Avenue Press celebrates its tenth anniversary this fall. Working on my authors’ books has given me so much joy—not to mention insider 24
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
WE CAUGHT UP WITH Laura Stanfill about starting her own press in Portland, fostering a supportive writing community, roller skating, and oh yes—her debut novel. Many are singing the praises of Singing Lessons for the Stylish Canary, which explores gender roles, societal cages and the importance of being true to your voice, no matter what the cost. It was published by Lanternfish Press of Philadelphia.
industry perspective—but for many years, I struggled to prioritize my writing. Publishing is task oriented. Sitting with the blank page, getting dreamy about a character’s trajectory, felt fatuous compared to, say, sending out ten more review copies of a debut novel. When my manuscript received rejections, hearing no landed in my heart as more proof that I should be editing and marketing books, not writing them. I’m much more gentle with myself now. I need to create. My latest surprise obsession—especially for a brain injury survivor—is roller skating. Picking up this childhood hobby again has changed my story, reminded me how good it feels to push my body. It’s also reminded me how not every fall is a disastrous, life-changing one. This mirrors the writing career trajectory I’ve been on for a while now: it’s okay to fall/fail. The doing matters more than what happens next. You’re a pillar of Portland’s literary community. Tell us about
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
creating community for authors and small presses. Years ago, my friend Liz Prato wondered why we were waiting for established authors to invite us to participate in the local lit scene. Why not just jump in? She began teaching; I started a press. We’ve always reached out to others and invited them to join us, remembering what it’s like on the outside and wanting to decentralize the power structure. Many Portland authors and publishers have committed to this shift. It takes all of us showing up for each other to build a strong, inclusive community. And there’s always more work to be done. Making art and selling it are two very different skill sets, and to push your work into the marketplace can be really scary. Competing with other artists only makes everything harder. Honestly, I want to live in a reality where creative courage is met with appreciation, so that’s how I spend my days—reading, listening, engaging with others’ words.
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Perfect Romance For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.
Visit Hood River
food + drink
CRAVINGS:
VINEYARD LUNCHES SOTER VINEYARDS While chef Clayton Allen works with ingredients that can’t be topped—the abundant herbs and vegetables hail from the surrounding 240-acre Biodynamic farm and vineyard—it’s the chef’s thoughtful approach that makes the dishes exceptional. A recent Provisions Tasting included an earthy soup of fava beans, porcini mushrooms and fennel; beef braised in red wine with chickpeas and a persillade of carrot tops, preserved Meyer lemon and garlic scapes; and—the chef’s favorite—a semifreddo made with lime and fir tip sugar garnished with strawberry puree. 10880 NE MINERAL SPRINGS ROAD CARLTON www.sotervineyards.com
OPEN CLAIM VINEYARDS The Hood River Valley Harvest Fest in October brings together the considerable bounty of the fertile region.
Gastronomy
Hood River Valley Harvest Fest written by Kerry Newberry NOTHING SAYS autumn more than elaborate stacks of pumpkins, squash and gourds. Available in a riot of brilliant colors, shapes and sizes, the best spot to stock up is straight at the source. And now that the crowds have diminished and the air is crisp and golden, it’s an ideal time to plan a fall getaway to the charming farms around the Columbia River Gorge. In addition to catching harvest at numerous wineries in the area and chasing waterfalls along quieter trails—you can partake in the Hood River Valley Harvest Fest, one of the top autumnal festivals in the region. Held each October, the classic fall celebration brings together more than seventy local vendors offering the best of the region’s orchard fruits and flowers, along with a wide variety of freshly baked pies and culinary provisions from jams to smoked salmon and chocolate-covered cherries. You’ll find all the rare and decorative gourds and pumpkins you could ever imagine, along with local art and gifts for early holiday shopping. There’s also live music, an activity area for kids, and cinematic kiteboarders and windsurfers skimming the waves at this festival held along the beautiful Hood River waterfront. Extend the day with dinner at one of the many nearby waterfront restaurants from Solstice Woodfire Pizza Cafe & Bar to Ferment Brewing Company. This year, the region’s ultimate ode to autumn will run October 7-9. For more information and updates check out the festival’s social handles (IG: @hoodriverharvestfest and FB: @hrharvestfest). 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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At one of the Willamette Valley’s newest hospitality spaces, chef Michael Neswald is rewriting wine country dining. A recent four-course meal at Open Claim Vineyards included singing pink scallops—diver-caught near Port Townsend that the chef drove to procure; roasted morels in a delicate cream sauce with asparagus, ginger and Douglas fir oil; and cocoa-rubbed brisket on a bed of airy whipped potato, topped with an Oregon wasabi leaf and fresh snap peas. The ethereal dessert plate deserves another paragraph. Plan ahead for the reservation-only seatings. 2795 BALLARD ROAD DALLAS www.openclaimvineyards.com
DANCIN When Dan and Cindy Marca took the leap into wine, they knew food and hospitality would play a key role. Which is why their winery DANCIN, located just outside the historic town of Jacksonville, offers a complete dining experience with wine pairings. From starters like savory meatballs and earthy cacio e pepe Brussels sprouts to a smattering of seasonal pizza pies, the only thing you should keep top of mind is to save room for dessert. 4477 S. STAGE ROAD MEDFORD www.dancin.com
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
COOKING CLASSES At Cookshop, a light and airy kitchen studio, founder and former pastry chef Meredith Mortensen feeds a thriving culinary community. In addition to a signature series of classes from handmade pasta to pastry, she brings in leading regional chefs and food artisans for specialty courses. Think Japanese Izakaya snacks and a night of making kushiyaki, onigiri, and tsukemono. A popular potluck gathers adventurous eaters together with a cookbook of the month. Recent tomes included Bryant Terry’s Vegetable Kingdom and Portugal: The Cookbook by Leandro Carreira. 2625 SE 26TH AVE. PORTLAND www.portlandcookshop.com
WILLAMETTE VALLEY KITCHEN COMPANY At this cozy culinary shop with Julia Child quotes stenciled on the wall, owner and chef Amy Church aims to stock Made in the USA and local products as much as possible. She also curates a locals-only wine club. For the past two years, Church ran virtual cooking classes covering delicious dishes from Coctel de Camarón and Curried Lentil Soup to Bengali Fish Curry. In-person classes recently resumed and include kitchen basics along with practical and fun courses like Multicooker Magic (for those who need some Instant Pot inspiration!).
Photos: Tanaka
COOKSHOP
Portland’s Tanaka is both bakery and shokupan sandwich shop with to-go Japanese delicacies.
Dining
Tanaka written by Kerry Newberry
Whether you’re visiting the state’s sun-soaked adventure town or a lucky resident swing by this culinary hub in the Old Mill District for premium cookware and specialty ingredients including Bend’s Farewell & Bonsai Bean Coffees, Black Sheep Chocolate, and Broadus Bees Honey. Tap into cooking classes led by local chefs that range from bread making and pastry to farmer’s market inspired fare. Oenophiles will appreciate regular wine tastings and winemaker dinners.
SO EXQUISITELY detailed are Tanaka’s pastries one might imagine them as little jewels on display. Arrive early and the pastry case pops with saturated colors from the strawberry shortcake layered with vanilla chantilly cream to towers of macarons in pastel hues with flavors like pistachio and passion fruit. The sunny yuzu tart is adorned with a delicate swirl of toasted meringue, blackberries and a shiso leaf. A row of whipped coconut cream and fresh fruit studded sandos—a classic grab-and-go snack in Japan—add to the visual delights. Beyond the pastries, there are many stars at this long-anticipated bakery and shokupan sandwich shop from the team at Afuri, from the freshly baked loaves of fluffy milk bread to the signature sandos. Standouts include the Oregon rockfish topped with kale slaw and chicken katsu served with creamy yuzu egg salad. The secret sandwich ingredient, as so often, is the sauce. This particular sweet and tangy katsu sauce is based on a multi-generational recipe used at Tanaka’s Tokyo-based sister restaurant, Kushitatsu Tanaka. You can even take a jar home (of the spicy version), along with housemade pickles, seasonal jams and yuzu marmalade. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tanaka is just what downtown Portland needs. In the bright and cheery space, it’s easy to remember the power of simple but thoughtful food. Or as the sentiment on the marine blue wall near the entrance reads: “Of everything in the world, who knew bread would bring all these beautiful people together?”
375 SW POWERHOUSE DRIVE, #120 BEND www.karaskitchenware.com
678 SW 12TH AVE. PORTLAND www.tanakakatsusando.com
333 CHEMEKETA ST. NE SALEM www.willamettevalleykitchenco.com
KARA’S KITCHENWARE
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farm to table Heirloom tomatoes on the vine at Stoneboat Farm.
Farm to Table
Heirloom Treasures Local is always best, but when it comes to eating tomatoes, sourcing is imperative written by Julie Lee | photography by Dan Hawk
LOCALLY GROWN tomatoes are nature’s delicate gift that loyalists wait for each season with held breath. Tomatoes also can be confusing; are they vegetable or fruit? Botanically speaking, tomatoes are fruits, bearing seeds and grown from a flowering plant, however from a culinary point of view, tomatoes are considered vegetables and counted as such by nutritionists as well. The United States Supreme Court even had a say, naming the tomato a vegetable in 1893 for taxation purposes. 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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There is also debate on whether the benefits of tomatoes, which include powerful cancer-fighting antioxidants, vitamin C and potassium, are best reaped when tomatoes are cooked or eaten raw. The lycopene found in tomatoes is at the center of this debate; a unique and powerful antioxidant plentiful in just a handful of foods, with a starring role in the fight against cancers including prostate and skin cancer, as well as heart disease and bone mass loss. When tomatoes are cooked, lycopene amounts increase, as cooking breaks down the cell walls and releases. Crushing fresh raw tomatoes, as in salsa or gazpacho, is a way to get all the benefits without cooking them. Any way you slice it, dishes starring tomatoes bridge from breakfast to dinner, and their uses are infinite—enjoyed in salads and sandwiches, sauces and snacks. There are more than 15,000 known varieties of tomatoes. Beefsteak tomatoes are
farm to table
some of the largest varietals, with a meaty texture that fills a plate with juice when cut. Campari tomatoes are well known and in stores year-round. Many tomatoes are named after fruit: pear, plum, grape and cherry tomatoes among them. Most would agree the star of the tomato show are heirloom tomatoes, flavor-packed treats that are found in boundless shapes, colors, and sizes, with Oregon bearing its own heirloom varietal, the Oregon Star tomato, a cross breed between Roma and Santiam varietals. Local matters. While you can find tomatoes year-round in almost every grocery, those closest to home will hands down have the most flavor and color. Aaron Nichols of Stoneboat Farm knows a thing or two about growing great tomatoes. The farm name, Stoneboat, comes from Aaron’s vision of building a floating boat of stone as a metaphor for starting a farm; stoneboat being “more of a sled than a boat,” he said. Nichols is a farmer and chef, coming from a culinary background and seeking to produce the best quality vegetables to make exceptional food. He once worked at Fife Restaurant, one of the first farm to table restaurants in Portland, and he also had stops at Paley’s Place, Beyond and Laurelwood Brew Pub. In his 20s, Nichols worked in New York at Franny’s, a farm to table venture where local produce came in from more than a six-hour drive radius. “I got to meet a lot of farmers there, ‘’ Nichols said, “but it’s not quite the same when the produce comes in on trucks.” This all inspired him to become the farm in “farm to table.” Nichols first rented land, which took a few years to find. He also had his first child around the same time. “It was all kind of a blur back then,” he said. The original plan was restaurant focused, but the pandemic had other ideas, so the emphasis shifted to a CSA, Community Supported Agriculture, which started with thirty families and quickly grew to 500. At first, he had two direct customers a week, which overnight became fifteen to twenty per day. His business is now 95 percent direct to consumer. With a CSA, members are provided with vegetables all year long in exchange for an annual commitment. Members feel like part of the farm, celebrating and anguishing the successes and challenges of farming. Nichols considers his CSA families as his own, attending weddings and even providing members recipe ideas. Stoneboat Farm uses trap cropping and predator attractant planting to deter bad bugs from gobbling up plants. Their pest control looks like rows of beautiful flowers instead of tanks of chemicals. They grow heirloom tomatoes, crossbreeding hybrids for the best flavor and texture, as well as beefsteak and cherry tomatoes. “We grow cherry tomatoes simply for the kids to pick for fun,” said Nichols. AT LEFT, FROM TOP Farmer and chef Aaron Nichols with a few of the tomato varieties grown at Stoneboat Farm. Rows of starts begin life inside the greenhouses at the center of the farm.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Stoneboat Farm staff manage many breeds of flowers, which are all over the farm and act as natural pest control. What farm would be complete without a fluffy farm dog? A tractor paired with this special attachment comes in handy for transplanting seedlings into the field.
Quality is top of mind. Nichols keeps an eye on the prize. “Is it a good tomato? A good flavor? Can we transport easily?” he asks for each batch picked. His favorite thing about farming is to see the people come through and pick up the produce, and the long-term vision is to keep the land in productive farming. “It’s going to become more important to feed people from the land around us locally,” said Nichols, “I love doing the CSA. We’ll always have some form of it—it stabilized and sustained us through the pandemic, and we enjoyed that we could all stand outside and talk at a safe distance when people were so isolated.” “It feels like a community,” said Nichols, “the CSA is giving to us, and we give to them.”
Arianna Lockwood, executive chef at The Fireside in Portland, loves cooking with tomatoes. “Tomatoes are nostalgic; they remind me of home,” she said, “being able to watch the tomato seed grow and waiting for the colors to turn until the bright red appears, finally being rewarded when pulling the perfectly ripe tomato from the vine. For all my favorite moments and memories, there was probably a tomato present somewhere!” Check out Lockwood’s recipe for Oeuf Mayonnaise on Tomato Toast. Another tomato on toast idea comes from Zupan’s Markets with a delicious Tomatoes, Peaches & Burrata on Toast recipe. And for a great way to eat raw tomatoes, Nichols shares his gazpacho recipe. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho Stoneboat Farm / HILLSBORO Aaron Nichols SERVES 2
Aaron Nichols’ Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho is a refreshing dish that pairs well with toast.
Oregon Recipes
Fresh Tomatoes in the Fall Oeuf Mayonnaise on Tomato Toast The Fireside / PORTLAND Arianna Lockwood, Executive Chef SERVES 2 FOR THE MAYONNAISE • 1 large egg • 3 stalks garlic scapes, rough chopped • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • 1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste • 1 cup grapeseed oil, or any other flavorless oil FOR THE EGGS • 4 large eggs • 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar • Salt FOR THE BREAD • 2 thick slices Grand Central Como Bread • 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil, or any other flavorless oil • 1 clove garlic FOR THE TOMATOES • 1 Stoneboat Farm heirloom tomato • Freshly ground black pepper • Salt
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FOR GARNISH • 1 pinch chives • 1 pinch dill • 1 teaspoon olive oil • 1 pinch flake salt FOR THE MAYONNAISE Place the egg, lemon juice, mustard, vinegar, garlic scapes and salt in the bowl of a food processor and mix until the egg is light in color. With the machine running, slowly and steadily pour in the oil, stopping halfway through to scrape down the sides of the bowl and to check the consistency. The mayonnaise should be thin enough to slightly run and thick enough to sit atop of the eggs. The garlic scapes should not purée, and look for green specks throughout. Taste and see if you want to add more lemon juice, mustard, vinegar or salt and adjust to your liking. Transfer to a storage container and keep refrigerated until needed. Making the mayonnaise the night before will allow the flavors to bloom and gain more depth. FOR THE EGGS Bring a small pot of water to a boil and add a good pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons white distilled vinegar. This will help keep the eggs in a uniform shape and will also season the eggs.
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• 2 heirloom tomatoes: 1½ cut to a rough chop, ½ in a fine dice • 3 cloves garlic, chopped • ½ cup olive oil • 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar • Salt to taste • Pepper or chili flakes to taste • 1 ear of corn, kernels cut off the cob • 1 small cucumber, finely diced • ¼ of a sweet onion, finely diced Purée the 1½ tomato, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. Add salt and seasonings to taste and adjust to how you’d like it. Add the cut veggies, drizzle with olive oil and serve. It’s nice with toast!
Once the pot is boiling, bring the temperature to medium low heat and keep at a simmer. Crack eggs into the pot, dropping close to the water on opposite sides of the pot. Cook for 3 minutes, then take out and place on a paper towel to drain. FOR THE BREAD In a pan on medium high heat, add oil and toast the bread until golden brown. Cut garlic clove in half and rub onto hot toasted bread. FOR THE TOMATOES Slice tomatoes into thick slices and season with salt and fresh ground black pepper. TO SERVE To assemble, divide the seasoned tomato slices amongst the toasted breads and two poached eggs on top each. Spoon the mayonnaise over the eggs according to taste. Garnish with fresh dill, chives, a sprinkle of crunchy flake salt and drizzle with olive oil. The Fireside’s Oeuf Mayonnaise on Tomato Toast.
EE OK R F BO OK CO
Learn about the family-owned farmers, Native fishers, inn-keepers, brewers, bakers and local makers who call the Mt. Hood and Columbia River Gorge home in this free, downloadable cookbook.
Download the cookbook and enter to win a 3-day, 2-night culinary getaway!
AVAILABLE IN ENGLISH AND SPANISH
WWW.HOOD-GORGE.COM/TASTEBOUND
farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Roasted Carrot Soup with Miso Butter
A Carrot by Any Other Name written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane IT WAS A BONE DRY 95 degrees as our 1975 family van rolled into downtown Ashland. I was hot and thirsty, and my three sisters had been asking for hours for dad to turn on the air conditioning. “It uses too much gas.” He hollered back from the driver’s seat as he pulled over to a bank of graniteclad drinking fountains at Lithia Park near the center of town. “Go drink some cool water.” Following his instructions, we piled out of the van and raced to the fountains. As I took my first gulp, I almost gagged at the foul smell and taste of the warm water. Over my shoulder, I heard a laugh. I turned to see a balding middleaged man in a dress. “Never drink the Lithia water!” he exclaimed in a British accent. He was holding a carrot in one hand, and a pitcher of water in the other. He took a big bite of the carrot, followed by a drink of what I assumed was non-Lithia water, and started to speak loudly “O Romeo, Romeo! Wherefore art thou Romeo? Deny thy father and refuse thy name; Or, if thou wilt not, be but
sworn my love, and I’ll no longer be a Capulet.” As the bearded thespian trilled Shakespeare’s words, chunks of half-chewed carrot and potable water sprayed out of his mouth onto the now large crowd of spectators. From the middle of the crowd came another voice. “Shall I hear more, or shall I speak at this?” Romeo shouted as he worked his way close enough to Juliette to receive the bulk of the orange spew. Romeo flinched as random sized chunks of soggy carrot bounced off his face. The crowd celebrated with laughter and applause. Like the actor playing Juliette transformed the Bard’s classic tragedy into comedy with some solid technique and a few other ingredients, we have the ability to transform raw carrots, which are delicious on their own, into something completely different and wonderful. This roasted carrot soup takes advantage of carrot’s natural sweetness by slowly developing complex flavors. The miso butter garnish adds a depth of umami that is sure to get a standing ovation.
Like the actor playing Juliette transformed the Bard’s classic tragedy into comedy with some solid technique and a few other ingredients, we have the ability to transform raw carrots, which are delicious on their own, into something completely different and wonderful. 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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SERVES 4 FOR THE SOUP • 6 to 8 large carrots (about 13/4 pounds) • 1/4 cup olive oil • Salt • 6 cups vegetable stock • 1 piece ginger, 1 inch long, peeled • 1 sprig thyme, plus more for garnish • 1/2 large sweet onion, chopped • 2 large garlic cloves, chopped • Freshly ground black pepper FOR THE MISO BUTTER • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, at room temperature • 2 tablespoons miso • 1 scallion, minced (optional) FOR THE SOUP Peel and cut the carrots into 1/2-inch rounds. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the carrots with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt. Set an oven rack 6 to 8 inches from the heat source and turn on the broiler. Broil the carrots until they brown and soften, turning them over with a spatula every 5 minutes or so; this should take 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, bring the stock to a boil, add the ginger and the sprig of thyme and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Put the onion in a medium stock pot with the remaining olive oil. Brown the onion over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add the garlic, and then add the carrots. Remove the ginger and thyme from the stock and add the stock to the pot with the onions and carrots. Bring to boil and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, until the carrots are soft enough to purée. Use an immersion or a standard blender to purée the mixture until smooth. If the soup seems too thick, add more stock or water and reheat gently. Add salt and pepper to taste. FOR THE MISO BUTTER Cream the butter and miso together with a fork, adding minced scallion if you like. Use immediately or roll into and wrap with parchment paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze for cutting into slices later. TO SERVE Serve soup hot with a slice of miso butter floated on the top.
farm to table A roasted carrot soup with miso butter is carrot comfort food for fall.
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Home + Design
Three Bathrooms, One Designer Portland interior designer Max Humphrey shares three very different bathroom designs for inspiration written by Melissa Dalton photography by Christopher Dibble
CONSIDERING EVERYTHING Max Humphrey has done before starting his Portland-based interior design business— including working in television and film production in Los Angeles, and touring the United States and England as a bassist in a punk band—perhaps it should come as no surprise that he has this advice for prospective bathroom remodelers. “Bathrooms don’t need to be neutral and boring,” Humphrey said, who is also the author of the recent style guide Modern Americana. The following three projects show us how that’s done.
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Designer Max Humphrey pulled ocean and sage colors from Manzanita and found the tile to make it work.
YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE START PLANNING YOUR FALL GLAMPING GETAWAY IN THE HEART OF WINE COUNTRY
36 UNIQUE TRAILERS FIRESIDE CRUISER BIKES GRILLS COFFEE MEET US AT THE‑VINTAGES.COM OR CALL US AT 971.267.2130
home + design
ABOVE Humphrey has fun with light, and tile color and size with two bathrooms in Manzanita.
Manzanita: A nature-inspired main suite For a top-to-bottom gut remodel of a 1978 house in Manzanita, Humphrey worked with the Portland architecture firm Beebe Skidmore to swap out the home’s dated finishes for a beach cabin aesthetic that takes inspiration from the immediate natural surroundings. “An Oregon beach is very different from a California or a Cape Cod beach,” Humphrey said. “We wanted to keep the palette in line with the Pacific Northwest.” In the primary bathroom, that meant covering the walls in two colors of handmade Ann Sacks MADE tile, including a moody blue reminiscent of the ocean, and a sage green that recalls sea grass. The blue is fixed horizontally across the lower third of the wall, while the green runs vertically to the ceiling. “We went for it with the tile,” Humphrey said. “It’s not just at wainscot height. It’s floor-to-ceiling everywhere, which really makes you feel encapsulated.” The large hexagon tile from Tempest Tileworks that Humphrey chose for the floor ensures the grid doesn’t overwhelm the room, and suits the ethos of a vacation home. “Less grout on the floor is easier to clean,” Humphrey said. Warm wood, via the tongue-and-groove at the ceiling and a custom maple vanity, complements the cooler hues of the tile. Brass details, including 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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the sconces flanking the mirror, a chandelier, the faucets, and even the trim at the shower glass, add a touch of luxe well-suited to a grown-up retreat.
Manzanita: A playful hall bath While the layout is pretty standard for this hall bathroom, the finishes were an opportunity to do anything but. “It’s a guest bathroom, so we got to be playful,” Humphrey said. To that end, the designer started with stacked square tile, opting for a pale pink color that’s a twist on traditional white. The remainder of the wall is unexpectedly covered in a pale pine tongue-and-groove paneling, which meets the wood of the ceiling. “It’s cabin vibes, but it’s completely modern,” Humphrey said. As a point of contrast, the sink was given a more traditional set-up, including a pivot mirror from Rejuvenation, an articulated sconce, and an unlacquered brass cross-handle faucet. A few black pieces, like the light switch plate and door knob, temper the pastel palette and make a case for metal mixing. “I try to keep it to two metal finishes per space, and then have each happen more than once. It needs to feel intentional and not random,” Humphrey said.
home + design
The knotty pine and brass give this bathroom an updated cabin feel.
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home + design
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home + design
Inspired by vintage Pendleton blankets that belonged to the client’s father, the designer suggested ensconcing the room in a striped tile treatment that mimics the pattern on the company’s Glacier National Park blanket. Bend: A fun, functional bath for teenagers The client’s brief for this bathroom in a new build in Bend can be summed up in one word: “fun,” Humphrey said. That directive, plus the fact that the room is located in a guest wing with a bunk room and is primarily used by five teenagers, gave Humphrey an abundance of creative freedom. Inspired by vintage Pendleton blankets that belonged to the client’s father, the designer suggested ensconcing the room in a striped tile treatment that mimics the pattern on the company’s Glacier National Park blanket. A wall-hung, Kohler cast iron sink with a double basin ensures two teens can brush their teeth at the same time, while a Caesarstone ledge underscores the mirror and offers a staging place for stuff during primp sessions. “I will ask, ‘What do hotels have that are so useful?’” Humphrey said. “It’s just so nice to have a little spot to stick your toothbrush on the ledge, especially because the sink doesn’t have a countertop of its own.” That Caesarstone continues to wrap the outer perimeter of the pony wall that separates the shower from the rest of the room, and lines the threshold at the shower door. Next, Humphrey carried two-inch hexagon tile from the main room onto the shower floor, which shouldn’t have a tile size bigger than that in order to prevent slippery falls, proving the room is both fun and functional. “That size is the sweet spot,” Humphrey said. “If that was a little one-inch tile, like a small hex or penny round, it might have looked busy. There’s enough going on the walls that the floor tile just needed to go away.” Still, the unexpected wall tile remains a favorite of the designer. “Most clients would have sent me packing,” Humphrey said with a laugh. “But to really go for it like this is what makes it so much more special.” AT LEFT The Pendleton blanket bathroom. Humphrey reflected the iconic blanket in his tile design and jumps the pony wall with the same color of floor tile in the shower. The Kohler cast iron sink serves many in the bunkhouse wing of the Bend home.
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home + design
inches from each, so each measures 93 inches long. Cut the third 2x2 in half, so each length is four feet long. Screw together these four boards so they form a rectangle that is 96 x 48 inches. Next, cut the last 2x2 into two pieces, each 45 inches long. Attach those as supports inside the frame, at an 18-inch distance from either end. ATTACH THE PLYWOOD Lay the plywood on top of this frame. Screw top down into the frame, all along the edges and into the supports. This is to keep the top rigid. It shouldn’t flex.
DIY: Backyard Ping Pong Table IN 2018, WE PROFILED an incredible backyard makeover in Salem, which had an outdoor dining table that could also be used for games of ping pong. What a great idea! It was custom-crafted from stone and concrete—not exactly easy to replicate—so here’s a DIY-version made of inexpensive construction materials and galvanized steel, which can be put together in about a weekend. KEEP IN MIND A regulation size ping pong table should be about 9 feet by 5 feet and 2 ½ feet high. For ease of construction, we sized our table to a standard sheet of plywood measuring 4 feet by 8 feet. This will also comfortably seat six to eight chairs, depending on their size, for dining. Wherever you place the table needs enough clearance to play the game without hazard. Consider shade as well: the metal top gets hot if the table sits in the summer 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
BUILD THE BASE Instead of attaching four legs, one at each corner, we want the legs to be inset from the table edge to accommodate chairs, and still provide maximum support. To do this, first build two rectangles from the 2x4s, with exterior dimensions that measure 28 ¼ inches by 17 ¾ inches. Next, cut three 2x4s to 57 inches long. These will connect the legs together to form the base. Attach one at the bottom, at the center of each rectangle. Attach the other two at the top, spaced 11 inches apart, to support the center of the table.
MATERIALS One sheet of exterior grade plywood; a 4x8 sheet of galvanized steel, 12 or 14 gauge; five 2x4s; four 8-foot 2x2s; and two 8-foot 1x3s.
FINISH THE TOP Rest the table top on top of the base and attach. Screw down the plywood from the top. Glue the metal to the plywood with construction adhesive, making sure to press it flat for a good bounce. Use an air nailer to trim out the sides of the table with 1x3s cut to size, so you can’t see the exposed edge of the plywood and metal. Keep the trim flush with the top.
BUILD THE FRAME FOR THE TABLE TOP This will support the plywood and galvanized steel top. Take two of the 8-foot 2x2s and cut three
LAST STEPS Paint the table the desired color using exterior paint, or stain. Add a removable ping pong net, pick up a paddle, and play!
sun. If you want the metal to be a color, spray paint it before installing.
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home + design
Spa Products for the Bathroom Since 2003, Indigo Traders has been the go-to Portland resource for traditional Turkish bath towels, called pestemal, which is flat-woven to be light and very absorbent. Whether you prefer an ultra-thin cotton version, a hand-woven linen, or heirloom silk, with their vast array of colors and patterns, this place has it all. www.indigotraders.com
Infuse your bathroom with a spa-like scent with this Vitruvi Diffuser, which is prettier than the plastic varieties thanks to a ceramic cover available in several different colors. The cover hides a BPA-free plastic reservoir. Just fill it with water and drops of essential oil, and mist away. Available at Beam & Anchor. www.beamandanchor.com
For when you don’t want to feel weighed down by heavy terry, reach for this Cloud Cotton Robe from Parachute Home. Made of premium Turkish cotton with a 4-ply gauze, it’s soft and lightweight—perfect for a moment of relaxation. The only difficulty will be choosing from one of the eight colors. www.parachutehome.com
Tired of a cloth bath mat that gets too damp or dirty? Consider replacing it with this Hinoki Bath Mat from Portland design store Canoe. Fabricated from Hinoki cypress wood, which is chosen for its anti-microbial properties, the tiny grooves in the surface prevent slipping, while the slots make drying a quick process. www.canoe.design
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Enjoy one of the most beautiful seasons in picturesque Ashland. Take in breathtaking Fall foliage in Lithia Park, go wine tasting in the vineyards, taste local bounty, watch a play at the award-winning Oregon Shakespeare Festival, enjoy outdoor adventure and more. Stay in comfort and choose from our unique hotels located in the center of it all. From the historic, European style charm of Ashland Springs Hotel in downtown, mineral soaking tubs, wine garden tasting room and organic spa at Lithia Springs Resort, to retro-modern ambiance, and epic views at Ashland Hills Hotel, we have something for everyone.
Book your Fall Getaway now. NeumanHotelGroup.com
Ashland Springs Hotel • Lithia Springs Resort & Wine Garden Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites • LARKS • Luna Cafe • Waterstone Spa
mind + body
Portland Nitro’s Jake Johnson has stretched his passion for ultimate Frisbee into a lifelong pursuit.
The Ultimate Stretch Is this the next Olympic sport? Ultimate athlete and Portland Nitro GM Jake Johnson hopes it is written by Jonathan Shipley
TO BE OR TO FRISBEE, that is the question. For Portland’s Jake Johnson, the answer is both. Not only is he a player, he’s also the general manager for the Portland Nitro, the city’s semi-pro ultimate frisbee team. The franchise is now a part of the American Ultimate Disc League. Their first game of their inaugural season was in May at Portland’s Providence Park. They bested their new arch rivals: the Seattle Cascades as 2,000 fans came to cheer them on. Johnson, and the team, felt the love. “I’m always my most happy, excited and fulfilled when playing ultimate frisbee,” he said. “Even after twelve years of playing, it hasn’t dissipated. I’d play every day if I could!” 46
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A data analyst for Nike, he got into the sport in high school and got ultimately hooked on it during his college years. At the Air Force Academy, he played all four years, becoming team captain his senior year. It was a pivotal moment. The team attended the Division III Nationals for the first time, finishing tied for third. “I learned how much I wanted ultimate and wanted leadership in ultimate to be a key feature in my life,” Johnson recalled. His life is on that field, more often than not. After college, Johnson played in various adult leagues in Oregon as often as he could. But then he had a thought. Perhaps, with the help of family, friends, colleagues, and community members, he could bring pro teams to Portland.
mind + body
Jake Johnson
Portland Nitro Player and General Manager Age: 29 Born: Ashland Residence: Portland
WORKOUT “My typical workout during the season involves mostly playing— either playing a game, doing one four-hour team practice a week, doing one mini-practice a week, playing more recreationally in an adult city league, and playing (to help with numbers) with the high school team I help coach.”
Photos: Portland Nitro
NUTRITION
All ultimate athletes are awaiting an Olympic Committee decision on bringing this new sport into the Games.
Teams, plural. Not only did Johnson help bring the Nitro to Portland, he also brought the Oregon Onyx to the field. The Onyx is a women’s team that is in its inaugural season in the Western Ultimate League. “Ultimate is a blast to watch,” said Johnson. “Athleticism! You get to see some very acrobatic maneuvers: skys, layouts, hucks!” The basic rules of ultimate are fairly straightforward. A team gains points by scoring goals. The frisbee can only be passed, and a goal is scored when a player successfully passes the frisbee to
a teammate in the end zone which that team is attacking. “There’s so much action,” he said. “It keeps everyone happy.” Portland Nitro already has set a league attendance record. He believes ultimate, on the whole, is on the rise. There are whispers that it will be an Olympic sport in 2028. He’s excited to put Portland on the ultimate frisbee map. “We know what we are,” Shakespeare wrote, “but know not what we may be.” Johnson is eager to find out. “We’ve got a lot of work to do and a lot of competition. But we’re in this for the long haul, and we’re up to the challenge.”
“Ultimate is a blast to watch. Athleticism! You get to see some very acrobatic maneuvers: skys, layouts, hucks!”
“With how busy I am being a part-owner of two pro teams, managing Nitro, playing for Nitro, coaching a couple youth teams, and working my normal job, I’ll say that my diet is often the thing that gets the least attention! Most of my meals are just ready-made to be super fast. So, to ensure I’m eating somewhat healthy, I try to have a pre-made salad bowl/bag a day.”
INSPIRATIONS “While our sport has been around since the late ’60s, it’s still relatively in its infancy. There aren’t a ton of ‘heroes,’ if you will, but I think there’s definitely one player I’ve always looked up to. His name is Ashlin Joye, and coincidentally, he also lives in Portland. He’s retired now, apparently, in order to give full effort to his medical residency, but in his prime, he was considered maybe the best ‘handler’ in the game and, while other handlers have become transcendent due to their speed and quickness or massive build and size, Ashlin did it through technique and intelligence. I’ve always admired him for being so incredibly good through other means.”
— Jake Johnson, Portland Nitro general manager and player
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artist in residence
Danelle Painter
Author and musician Will Vlautin is the new every-man voice.
Storyteller Extraordinaire Oregon songwriter and novelist Willy Vlautin is a one-man duet written by Daniel O’Neil
WILLY VLAUTIN LIVES in Scappoose with his wife, three horses, a dog and a couple of cats. There and in Portland he writes novels and songs, songs and novels, weaving the artforms and stories around working-class themes based in the West. His sixth novel, The Night Always Comes, just received critical acclaim, and his band, The Delines, records albums and tours from here to Europe. Few storytellers create as ambidextrously as Willy Vlautin. 48
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artist in residence
It might seem Vlautin grew up surrounded by lyricists and paperbacks. But an upbringing in conservative Reno provided him with influences more by chance. Music played on the radio and turntable, and as Vlautin turned his ear to the words of Tom Waits and Bruce Springsteen, stories appeared. “As a kid, I’d hear a song that had a story in it, and I realized that in the three-minute time frame of a pop song I could totally disappear into a different world,” Vlautin said. By age 13, he was playing in garage bands, and around that time the Reno public school system introduced him to John Steinbeck, required reading that surprised Vlautin. “I drank the Kool-Aid of all that,” Vlautin said. “Steinbeck became a huge hero of mine, and still is. He informed the way I write songs, influenced the way I write a story. I read Steinbeck while listening to The Clash or The Jam, and it kind of tattooed my interests into me.” But Vlautin kept his fiction to himself, too shy, unconfident and convinced he didn’t deserve to write stories, “because nothing had really ever happened to me,” he said. Oregon author Raymond Carver’s short story collection, Where I’m Calling From, changed Vlautin’s outlook. Carver’s stories of failed men resonated with Vlautin, then in his early 20s, and opened a way for him to emulate Steinbeck. Within weeks of finishing Carver’s book, Vlautin feverishly started writing stories and, eventually, novels. Coincidentally, or not, music brought Vlautin’s fiction into the light. A few years after establishing himself in Portland in 1993, Vlautin formed a band, Richmond Fontaine, which would record a dozen albums. Industry people learned that singer/songwriter Vlautin also wrote novels, and Vlautin ended up selling The Motel Life, published in 2007. Prominent critics compared it favorably to Carver and Steinbeck, and it was made into a movie. Music and writing have echoed off each other since Vlautin’s youth. This arrangement creates synergy in his stories. Music producer John Askew, who has worked with Vlautin’s bands, recognizes this artistic overlap. “I think of Willy’s songs as very cinematic and visual,” Askew said. “It’s so damn easy to get lost in the world he creates. There’s an escape element—it’s all about feel and vibe and where the story takes the listener.” Out of six published novels, Vlautin said five started as songs. “The novels and the songs all live in the same apartment building, so they run into each other,” Vlautin said. Likewise, the novels feed his songs. “Writing a novel takes so long, is such a grind, a day-after-day effort,” Vlautin said. “I’m immersed in a certain set of ideas and a certain world for sometimes three to four years, so I’ll write a lot of songs based on the ideas I’m grappling with in the novel.” For Vlautin, music and fiction writing also take the pressure off each other. “When I’m writing bad songs, I remind myself that I can’t expect to write good songs because I’m a novelist,” he said. “And when my novels aren’t working, and I’m pulling my hair out over the novels, I just say to myself, ‘Well, how can you write a good novel? You’re a musician.’ I’ll go on a tour and try to be a musician and hopefully that break will help solve the problem of the novel. It’s kept the two alive—I never quit.”
A disciplined routine supports Vlautin’s working-class-themed stories. His dedication has led to a teaching gig in Pacific University’s Master of Fine Arts in Writing program. “Willy is extraordinarily humble as a teacher, and he brings a workman’s-like quality to the program,” said Scott Korb, the program’s director. “He reminds students that the writing gets done when you sit down and do it everyday.” At a desk or with a guitar in his lap, writing stories to be heard or read, or walking through Portland and connecting with whomever he meets, listening to their stories, Vlautin lives storytelling. “I’m always hoping to write something with some kind of merit, something that people respond to,” Vlautin said. “I don’t have huge aspirations, but maybe just wanting to stay in it is a huge aspiration. You hope to God you get better at it, and I don’t know if you do, but if you work hard there’s always a hope that what you write will make sense.”
“When I’m writing bad songs, I remind myself that I can’t expect to write good songs because I’m a novelist. And when my novels aren’t working, and I’m pulling my hair out over the novels, I just say to myself, ‘Well, how can you write a good novel? You’re a musician.’ I’ll go on a tour and try to be a musician and hopefully that break will help solve the problem of the novel. It’s kept the two alive—I never quit.” — Willy Vlautin
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STARTUP 52 WHAT’S GOING UP 54 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 56 MY WORKSPACE 58
pg. 60 Chanel Hason, Elakha Alliance’s director of outreach and community relations, is working to reintroduce sea otters on the Oregon Coast, gradually.
Daniel O’Neil
GAME CHANGER 60
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Okapi Reusables
startup
Portland startup Okapi Reusables’ goal is to vastly reduce deforestation from paper coffee cups.
Coffee Cup Conservation Portland startup Okapi Reusables works to save forests by reducing waste written by Jonathan Shipley IT WAS T.S. Eliot who wrote, “I have measured out my life with coffee spoons.” The lives of most Americans can say the same. We consume more than 400 million cups of coffee per day. Approximately 70 percent of us drink coffee every week; 62 percent of us every day. The average American coffee drinker drinks three cups a day. While our collective coffee life keeps us alert and productive, it is, however, killing the planet. Take just Starbucks, for example. Starbucks uses more than 8,000 cups per minute. That’s four billion cups a year. Nearly 1.6 million trees are harvested each year for those cups alone. Those cups are lined with plastic and are, therefore, not recyclable. We see 50 million single-use coffee cups discarded annually in metro Portland, alone. Most of those disposable cups are manufactured overseas. That means raw materials are shipped globally, continually, while the cups we throw away are, continuously, being hauled to our ever-growing landfills. Portland’s Debora Gray and San Francisco Bay Area’s Emily Chueh thought there must be a better way. They created the startup Okapi Reusables. For a small one-time membership fee, and pocket change per use, customers download an app and, essentially, borrows reusable cups at participating local cafes. The coffee drinker has only to return the cup to any participating cafe 52
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in the network within two weeks to complete the cycle. “If we can change the economics,” Gray said, “we can invest in higher quality, durable containers that people love and that really enhances your enjoyment of the drink, that don’t pose a health hazard to the coffee drinker or the environment.” The women are both passionate consumers of specialty coffees and teas and got particularly concerned with waste issues during the Covid pandemic when meals that they ordered out filled their trash bins immediately. “It was painful to feel that we were adding to the problem,” Chueh observed. A recent report from the U.S. Dept. of Energy found that only 5 percent of plastic waste is recycled. Scientists predict that by 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish. Chueh said, “It blows my mind that we’ve let it get so bad.” Gray and Chueh decided to make things better. “The problem of so much take-out waste, and issues of compostable foodware, led us to reusable solutions and the circular economy,” Gray said. Since their pilot launch in November of last year, as of this writing, Okapi Reusables has twelve participating locations in the Portland area and more than 150 members. Locations include Clinton Street Coffeehouse, Fetch Coffee Roasters, Rose City Coffee, Lolo Pass Hotel, Vivienne Kitchen & Pantry, Tiny Moreso, Bastion, and Bread & Honey Cafe. “We’ve been really lucky in finding cafes that have been great partners, open to testing and innovating along with us as we build a simple borrowing approach that works for baristas and their regular customers,” Gray said. Golden milk latte in hand, Gray and Chueh, with her matcha latte, embrace caffeine as they work assiduously to expand the business. Their lives are being measured by coffee spoons and trees saved through the adoption of reusable coffee cups.
Salem Public Library
what’s going up?
Critical Infrastructure Libraries around Oregon modernize for the next generation of readers written by Jonathan Shipley IT WAS Albert Einstein who said, “The only thing you absolutely have to know is the location of the library.” There are about 250 public libraries in the state of Oregon. A handful, in recent months, are making strides to improve their locations with building and renovation. “To build up a library is to create a life,” noted Carlos Maria Dominguez. “It’s never just a random collection of books.” Here’s a brief collection of libraries helping create the lives of Oregonians. CHETCO COMMUNITY PUBLIC LIBRARY | BROOKINGS The Chetco Community Public Library recently reopened after a $1.1 million dollar renovation. The newly refreshed library has a new meeting room, an enclosed children’s area, a quiet reading room, new computers, display shelving and a makerspace. DESCHUTES PUBLIC LIBRARY | BEND In November 2020, Deschutes County voters supported the Library’s bond measure to expand and improve libraries across the county. Remodeling of the La Pine and Sisters Libraries is slated to begin in late 2022. Work on the East Bend and Sunriver libraries begins in early 2023. Construction of the Central Library will take place in 2023 and 2024 with the Downtown Bend Library to have work done in 2024 into 2025. SALEM PUBLIC LIBRARY | SALEM After an $18.6 million bond, seismic retrofits, and an eighteen-month-closure, the downtown Salem Public Library is better than ever. The retrofits and upgrades will protect staff and visitors during a major earthquake. The building also has a new open, airy feel thanks, in part, to the $500,000 from the Salem Public Library Foundation.
After an $18.6 million makeover, Salem Public Library is seismically fit and has a more open layout.
University of Oregon School of Journalism and Communication
what i’m working on
UO journalism professor of practice Torsten Kjellstrand (center) sees opportunity in rural storytelling.
The Rural Opportunity A University of Oregon journalism professor sees risk and reward in small town news interview by Jonathan Shipley
THE WORLD is on fire. But, so, too, are the students at the University of Oregon School of Journalism and Communications as they covered the disastrous effects of climate change with Science Story. The Science Story project brought together students to write stories about the impacts of climate change with particular regard to Oregon’s Holiday Farm Fire in 2020, which burned more than 173,000 acres in the McKenzie River Valley. The class was led, with the help of award-winning journalist Dennis Dimick, by University of Oregon’s professor of practice Torsten Kjellstrand, an accomplished news photographer for more than three decades. 56
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What appeals to you in telling stories of the underrepresented and misrepresented in rural communities? I grew up in Lund, Sweden, where I spent a lot of time in my family village, a farm community of about one hundred people. Those rural roots stick with me. As I grew into the journalism industry of the United States, I found some parts of it curious: how seldom the media seriously took the issues of rural America; the great stories that were going untold in rural America; and how the happenings in rural America were more often close to the core of the biggest and most pressing issues of the United States, historically, economically and culturally, and yet were being ignored.
How did the Holiday Farm Fire become the focus? Me and my friend Dennis Dimick fired up the Science Story class just in time to both have it go completely remote, due to COVID, and to have the Holiday Farm Fire sweep through our valley. We pivoted to a fully online teaching mode because we had to. Then we did what good journalists always do: We reacted to the events and issues in our community by telling stories that help explain and clarify. The students rose to the occasion, finding innovative ways of telling stories during a time when it was hard to meet people. All of the work centers on climate change. Students know that it is the biggest issue of our time. With climate change being such a monumental issue, how does science journalism help combat it? Science journalism is simply a way to use storytelling to translate the ideas of science to an audience that isn’t trained to read scientific literature— and to make sure that the stories put the ideas in science in the context of our lives. So, science journalism can’t combat climate change.
Wesley Lapointe
Students produced photos such as these for UO’s Science Story class. ABOVE The Wildfire Workforce Corps begins to gather brush and dead limbs from a hillside atop a gated community in Eugene’s South Hills on April 27, 2021. All of the brush and hanging branches will be “ladder fuels” for fire to climb into the canopy if ignition occurs nearby. AT LEFT Tia and her daughter Addi walk past the location of the burned health clinic where Tia works on April 27, 2021. Moved to temporary quarters, the clinic is one of the oldest rural clinics in Oregon.
Samuel Scudder
How did “Life in a Flammable Forest” come about? The Science Story class that published Life in a Flammable Forest evolved from a series of projectbased classes I taught beginning the first year I was at UO. I teach what I know, and what I know is how to tell stories that rise from communities I get to know. Responsible and effective journalism always involves ethics of storytelling, working within the law, the context of a story in our society, modes of communicating, and a whole grab bag of the kinds of theoretical things that real professors of communications write about and teach, but for me that is just background for creating stories that matter. So, that’s how I teach. Stories come first.
Only effective (and brave) policies that lead to specific and broad behaviors can do that. What we can do as storytellers is sensitize people to the need for solutions, so that they can implement, support and cry out for solutions. How can journalism make issues personal enough for people to change their habits or their thinking? Then again, Is it a journalist’s job to change minds, or simply to report the facts? I would say that any journalist who only lays out facts isn’t a journalist at all. We’re not makers of objective lists, no matter what the clickbait journalism wannabes are doing online. “Ten Great Ways to Save the Planet!” is just another form of propaganda that tells an audience that complicated ills can be fixed with a few quickly applied remedies requiring a few mild changes in how we think and act. We try to teach students to be rigorous and sharp in their thinking
as they research, pitch, report, and shape their stories. That’s not an objective exercise. Rather, it is a process of continuous and fragile judgements—and judgements are nothing if not subjective. What’s true? What’s meaningful? Who is important? Whose stories matter enough to tell? When should we tell stories? Who are we trying to reach? What information do we include or exclude from a story? How do you think science journalism will evolve as forest fires rage even more and the political climate, undoubtedly, heats up? I have no idea where science journalism is going, but I know that if our students are any measure, it will be smart, surprising and well-crafted. It will also be increasingly necessary. Fires, floods and other calamities will need to be covered with sensitivity. More importantly, they’ll need to be put in broader context, so that we can muster the energy to do the hard work of finding solutions.
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my workspace
Digital Pioneer A photographer helps others envision change within the art form written by Joni Kabana
Growing up as an adopted Asian boy in a Caucasian family in Des Moines, Iowa, Lincoln Miller learned at an early age to navigate confusing stares and questions. Photography became an early passion, enabling him to interact with his environment without the necessity to engage with dialog. While attending Drake University, Miller recorded music and made portraits of local musicians, instilling in him a lifelong love for storytelling.
Arriving in Portland in 1985, Miller initially worked as a portrait and commercial photographer and as a custom printer for PhotoCraft, where he also garnered business development skills in the area of customer service, mounting, printing, art prep and installations. The first Apple Mac, Photoshop and digital film recorders were introduced during this time period, much to the collective and fierce dismay of many photographers. Instead of fearing the new technology, Miller embraced it and found his curiosity growing toward the power of these new tools. He was soon hired by Wy’east to start a digital lab and enthusiastically rode the rapid transformation ride from analog to digital photography, emphasizing a gentle touch to foster learning in a highly approachable manner to those who most opposed the new methods.
Banking on his vast experience and considering the encouragement and support of his wife, Miller started Pushdot Studio in 2002. From the beginning, his mission is to collaborate with photographers, sharing with them possibilities regarding how they can view computers as a useful tool that can expand, not limit, their possibilities. In the early years, Pushdot struggled financially. Miller’s perseverance and love for the craft won out and in hindsight, growing this business organically was the only viable way it could have been done given the long-term disdain for the new path in photography.
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Photos: Drew Cornwall
my workspace
As digital cameras became better and less expensive, film usage started to decline as well as scanning. Printing needs increased as many photographers found that archival inkjet printing far exceeded traditional darkroom prints in quality and longevity. Today, most of Pushdot’s clients are individuals who seek his expertise and trust his collaborative skills to produce the best quality print per the creator’s wishes.
Celebrating 20 years in business, Miller credits the company’s success with each employee he hired over the years. Their ideas, as well as input from the creative community at large, inspire and influence business development. Painter Catherine Epstein, a 10-year client, cites the Pushdot Gallery as a “space of experimentation without the pressure of commercial validity. Miller has shown great confidence and honor to the creative process.” The gallery enables Miller to support artists and foster community exchange. The shows are a labor of love rather than an income stream and Miller views each exhibit as his proudest achievement.
Want to know more about various papers, untraditional printing, imperceptible dot patterns and the array of archival inks? See more at www.pushdotstudio.com. “Nothing is more rewarding or the definition of success than to see a vision fulfilled or a seed of an idea come to a successful end. For me, this happens because of the collaborative approach we instill,” said Miller.
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game changer
“Without the presence of sea otters, no one today has seen what a healthy kelp forest looks like in Oregon. Our ecosystems will be much more vibrant and resilient than they are now.”
Sea otters float in Monterey Bay, California. While the species can still be found on Washington and California coasts, otters have remained absent in Oregon since the fur trade era. A reintroduction effort in the 1970s was unsuccessful.
— Chanel Hason, Elakha Alliance director of outreach and community relations
Completing the Coast
The Elakha Alliance seeks a reintroduction of sea otters along Oregon’s shores LOOK ALONG OREGON’S surf-pounded shores and nothing seems out of place. Yet ever since the fur trade era, which ended more than a century ago, sea otters have remained extinct here. While California and Washington have managed to maintain or reintroduce this keystone species, Oregon lags its neighbors. For now, anyway. Since 2018, the Elakha Alliance has developed a framework for sea otter restoration in Oregon. By consulting the latest science and connecting tribes, conservation groups and local stakeholders, Elakha is helping the Oregon Coast find missing balance. The name Elakha comes from the Chinook trading jargon word for sea otter. As regalia, in stories and as a status symbol, the sea otter and its fur played an important cultural role in Native life up and down the Oregon Coast. “Practically speaking, they were as valuable to Indigenous folks here in Oregon as they were to the commercial fur trade because it’s the softest, warmest fur out there,” said Peter Hatch, a member of the Confederated Tribes of Siletz Indians and one of Elakha’s founding board members. Hatch’s father, Dave, originally conceived the idea, name and logo for the Elakha Alliance in the late 1990s. Today, Elakha seeks to translocate several hundred sea otters to a few key spots on the southern Oregon Coast. Additional locations farther north would follow, as would local benefits to the nearshore ecosystem. A plague of purple sea urchins has ravaged Oregon’s kelp forests lately, creating barrens of what should be habitat for fish and for commercial species like Dungeness crab and red urchins. Sea otters, an apex predator in these waters, would control the purple urchin population, naturally restoring the kelp forests. 60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Daniel O’Neil
written by Daniel O’Neil
“Without the presence of sea otters, no one today has seen what a healthy kelp forest looks like in Oregon,” said Chanel Hason, Elakha’s director of outreach and community relations. “Our ecosystems will be much more vibrant and resilient than they are now,” she said. Changes won’t occur immediately, but Elakha’s timeline has no horizon. At best, the nonprofit looks to apply for a US Fish and Wildlife permit and bring the first sea otters back to Oregon in five years. Then it will take several decades to see if the new populations become established. “We have a strong team of sea otter scientists from along the West Coast who are highly optimistic about reintroduction efforts here,” Hason said.
game changer Chanel Hason, of the Elakha Alliance, advocates for the reintroduction of sea otters to the Oregon Coast.
MORE ONLINE Elakha’s cause already receives widespread comsought input from the crab industry. But he says munity support. Netarts-based Jacobsen Salt Co. the Dungeness fishery, Oregon’s largest, already has Learn more about Elakha Alliance efforts at recently donated the proceeds of a sea otter-themed a full plate of problems, such as ocean acidification www.elakhaalliance.org salt tin, and thirteen breweries from across the state and dead zones, and they fear another. “Sea otters crafted a limited release for Elakha’s inaugural Oregon Otter have been gone for so long that a lot of disruption could hapBeer Festival, held last March. pen,” he said. Before reintroduction occurs, Novotny said crabYet sea otter reintroduction alarms others, mostly because of bers would like to have fail-safe guidelines in place to protect the animal’s appetite. With no blubber for warmth, sea otters their industry. consume about one-quarter of their body weight daily in food. The fate of sea otters in Oregon depends upon conversations Their menu includes red urchins and Dungeness crab, two im- and compromises, and upon the whims of Mother Nature. Yet for portant fisheries in Oregon’s nearshore waters. Peter Hatch, success means Elakha’s work can one day be forgotTim Novotny, communications manager for the Oregon ten. “With a self-sustaining population of sea otters back in OrDungeness Crab Commission, appreciates how Elakha has egon, this lacuna of the last hundred years will be just a blip.”
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KJ Lakin Media
Preparation for chef Franco Console’s Ale-Braised Rabbit with Ricotta Gnocchi at Larks Home Kitchen in Ashland.
RECIPE
Franco Console, Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine (Ashland) // Serves 4-6
Ale-Braised Rabbit with Ricotta Gnocchi FOR THE BRAISED RABBIT • 5 rabbits seasoned with herb province, mace, salt and pepper • 3 house-smoked bacon bellies • 6 white onions, julienned • 1 bunch thyme, minced on stick • 4 blocks demi-glace • 48 ounces ale or lager • Chicken stock as needed (about 6 quarts) FOR THE RICOTTA GNOCCHI • 4 pounds ricotta • 8 eggs, lightly beaten • 4½ cup pecorino, grated • ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ground • 5 cups 00 flour • 2 teaspoons salt • 1 teaspoon black pepper FOR THE RICOTTA • 6 ounces white distilled vinegar • 4 ounces lemon juice • 7 quarts whole milk • 1 quart heavy cream • 4 tablespoons salt
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FOR THE BRAISED RABBIT Preheat the oven to 550 degrees. Rub rabbits in olive oil and season then roast for 14 minutes. While rabbits are in the oven, sweat onions in a roasting pan with minced thyme. Then add bacon bellies to pan with rabbits, deglaze with beer and add the demi-glace. Pour enough chicken stock to just barely submerge the rabbits. Braise covered for 2 hours at 350 degrees low fan. Remove the rabbit and bellies from the liquid and shred the meat, removing all bones. Place the braising liquid into a heavy bottomed pot and reduce by 2/3. FOR THE RICOTTA GNOCCHI Stir together ricotta, eggs, cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Add flour in stages, stirring to form a soft, wet dough. Be careful to not overwork the dough. Shape dough on a lightly floured surface into 1-inchthick ropes. Cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces with a lightly floured knife. Put in one layer on a lightly floured parchmentlined baking sheet and chill for several minutes. Cook gnocchi in two batches in a pasta pot of boiling water (3 tablespoons salt for 6 quarts water), adding a few at a time and stirring occasionally, until cooked through and floating (approximately 3 to 4 minutes per batch).
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Lift out with a slotted spoon and shock in an ice bath. FOR THE RICOTTA Run a double layer of cheesecloth under warm water to dampen, then gently squeeze to remove any excess water. Line a colander with the cheesecloth and set in the Cambro. Combine the vinegar and lemon juice in a measuring cup. Bring the milk and cream to 190 degrees, over mediumlow heat, in a medium heavybottomed saucepan, stirring frequently to keep the milk mixture from scorching on the bottom. Add half of the vinegar mixture and salt and stir for 10 seconds (you’ll see the milk mixture begin to slightly curdle). Remove from the heat, cover the saucepan with a lid and let sit for 20 minutes. Remove the lid and you will see that the milk mixture has separated into small curds. Now, stir in the remaining vinegar mixture and the milk mixture will continue to curdle. Stir for a few minutes. Pour this entire mixture into the prepared colander with cheesecloth. Let drain.
ON THE MENU
KJ Lakin Media
Ale-Braised Rabbit with Ricotta Gnocchi
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RECIPE
ON THE MENU Cantonese Roast Duck
Matt Johnson, Wayfarer (Cannon Beach) // Serves 2-4, Depending on Size of Boar Shanks
Apple Cider-Braised Wild Boar with Fall Mushrooms
Photo: Wayfarer
FOR THE MUSHROOMS • 1 pound fresh wild or cultivated mushrooms (chanterelles or porcinis work best) • ¾ cup butter • Salt and pepper to taste • 2 tablespoons fresh chives, minced
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FOR THE BRAISED BOAR Season the shanks with salt and pepper then roll in flour to coat. In a heavy-duty braising pan, heat the oil to just smoking. Brown the shanks on all sides in the oil and then remove. Add the parsnips, onion, celery and garlic cloves to the pan. Sauté the vegetables until tender. Add the shanks back to the pan and add the white wine. Reduce the wine by half and add the cider along with the herbs. Bring to a simmer and cover tightly with a lid or foil. Place in a 250-degree oven for 2 hours or until the meat is almost falling off the bone. Remove the shanks from the braising liquid and vegetables and set aside. FOR THE MUSHROOMS In a sauté pan, melt ½ cup of the butter and add the mushrooms. Cook until tender, season with salt and pepper and set aside. Strain the vegetables out of the braising liquid and discard them. To serve, place the shanks back in the pan, add the strained braising liquid and mushrooms. Bring to a simmer to heat the shanks through. Remove from liquid and serve the shanks over polenta or whipped potatoes. Add the other ¼ cup of butter to the simmering braising liquid and mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until slightly thickened, spoon the sauce over each shank and garnish with chives.
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Christine Dong
FOR THE BOAR • 4 wild boar shanks (cut osso buco-style) • ¼ cup flour • ½ cup canola oil • 2 parsnips, peeled and small diced • 1 yellow onion, small diced • 2 celery stalks, small diced • ½ cup whole garlic cloves • 2 cups white wine • 2 cups apple cider • 2 cups beef or game stock • Bay leaves • Sprigs fresh thyme • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
RECIPE
Steven Chin, YAYA Cantonese BBQ (Portland) // Serves 4-6
Cantonese Roast Duck • 1 whole duck (4½-5 pounds) FOR THE MARINADE • 4 slices ginger • 3 whole garlic cloves, lightly crushed • 3 shallots, roughly diced • 10 stems of cilantro • ½ orange, roughly sliced • 1 tablespoon ground bean sauce • 1 tablespoon hoisin • 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine FOR DRY SEASONING MIX • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1 whole star anise • ¼ teaspoon white pepper • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon five-spice powder FOR THE SCALDING LIQUID • 2 quarts boiling water • ¼ cup rice vinegar FOR THE GLAZE • 1 quart warm water • ½ cup honey • ½ cup rice vinegar • 2 tablespoons red vinegar
Combine the dry seasoning ingredients in a bowl and rub the mix into the cavity of the duck. Blend marinade ingredients in a blender until smooth. Pour marinade into the duck cavity and close with a metal skewer, working from the tail up to the belly so marinade does not leak out. Place duck breast-side down on a tray and store in the refrigerator for 24 hours, uncovered. After 24 hours, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Set aside 1 quart of water in a saucepan to make the glaze, adding the honey, rice vinegar and red vinegar. Make the scalding liquid with the remaining 2 quarts, adding ¼ cup of rice vinegar. With a ladle, pour the scalding liquid over the front and back of the duck. This will help tighten the skin. Then brush the glaze over the front and back of the duck. Wait 5 minutes and reglaze. Place the duck breast-side up on a rack on the tray in the refrigerator for another 24 hours. Alternatively, hang the duck upright using one or two S-shaped hooks through the neck of the duck. Place a pan under the duck to catch any drippings. Tip: If the marinade drips out, use a string to tie around the tail area. Remove the duck from the refrigerator an hour before roasting to bring it to room temperature. Set up a fan to blow on the duck during this hour to further dry the skin. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a tray of water at the bottom of the oven. Place the breast-side up duck and rack on a baking sheet. Roast for 30 minutes. Turn the duck breast-side down, reduce the heat to 350 degrees and cook for 30 minutes. Flip the duck breast-side up for the final 10 minutes at 375 degrees, or until the internal temperature reaches 175 degrees, using an instant-read thermometer placed in the thickest part of the thigh. Remove the duck from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Remove the skewer from the duck to allow the juice to drain into a bowl. Strain the juice and skim off any fat. Set the juice aside and serve with duck. Place the duck on a cutting board and cut into pieces. Arrange the duck on a serving platter.
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RECIPE
ON THE MENU Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Venison
Danielle Lewis, Castor (Corvallis) // Serves 2
FOR THE BACONWRAPPED STUFFED VENISON • 1 pound venison, leg medallions • 1 cup Italian dressing, store bought • 1 jalapeño, cut lengthwise in sticks • 2 ounces chèvre, rolled in small logs (½ ounce per venison medallion) • 4-5 pieces sliced pepper bacon • 9 ounces fingerling potatoes • 5 ounces green beans, tops picked off • Olive oil • Salt and pepper FOR THE HONEY GLAZE • 3 tablespoon honey • 1 tablespoon water • 1 tablespoon Italian dressing • Pinch paprika
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Castor
BaconWrapped Stuffed Venison
FOR THE BACON-WRAPPED STUFFED VENISON Marinate venison leg medallions in Italian dressing for at least 5 hours and up to 14 hours (12 hours is ideal). Preheat the grill to 450 degrees. While the grill is heating up, wrap the fingerling potatoes in foil with a drizzle of oil, salt & pepper. Place the marinated venison on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, carefully butterfly the meat. Place the foil wrapped potatoes on the hot grill—cooking until soft. Stuff the venison with the chèvre and jalapeño sticks and close with care. Wrap each medallion with bacon and secure with toothpicks. About 20 minutes before your potatoes are done, place the bacon wrapped venison on the grill and close
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the lid, cooking for 5 minutes. Rotate the venison and continue cooking for an additional 5 minutes. Turn the venison again and cook for an additional 5 minutes. You want the bacon to be caramelized and crispy. Remove the venison and set on a cutting board and rest for 5 minutes. While the venison is resting, drizzle oil, salt, and pepper on the green beans. Remove the toothpick from the venison. Slice on a bias or angle and serve with green beans and roasted potatoes. Drizzle honey glaze on top. FOR THE HONEY GLAZE Mix all the ingredients together in a small pot. Bring to a boil, watching closely. Simmer for 5 minutes. Keep warm.
Tim Garling, Recipe Inspired by Brian Polcyn, Tim Garling’s Jackalope Grill (Bend) // Serves 12 Appetizer Portions
Elk Terrine
with Brandied Cherries and Pistachios FOR THE ELK • 1 pound elk, trimmed of gristle and connective tissue and cut into small chunks • 14 ounces pork fat back, best quality cut into small chunks • 1½ cup dry Madeira (dry Marsala will work as well) • 5 ounces German-style smoked prosciutto (Speck) • 1 tablespoon terrine spice (recipe follows) • 1 ounce kosher salt • 2 teaspoon black pepper, coarse ground • ¼ teaspoon pink salt (optional) • 1 tablespoon butter • 2 tablespoons garlic, minced • 2 tablespoons shallot, minced • 3 egg whites (large eggs) • ½ cup heavy cream • 1 cup dried Montmorency sour cherries • 1 cup brandy • ½ cup raw pistachios FOR THE TERRINE SPICE MIX • 2 tablespoons white peppercorns • ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg • 10 whole cloves • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon • ½ teaspoon ground ginger • ½ teaspoon thyme, whole • ¼ teaspoon piment d’ Espelette • 1 medium size bay leaf, crumbled
Three important considerations when preparing this dish: Keep the meat and metal parts cold, season boldly and don’t overcook. On the first day, combine the elk, fat back, terrine spice, salt, black pepper, and pink salt (optional) in a mixing bowl. Stir well to coat. Add the Madeira, stir, cover and refrigerate overnight. In another bowl, add the brandy to the dried Montmorency cherries, cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight. On the second day, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the metal meat grinder parts and the food processor parts in the freezer. Strain the liquid from the cherries and the elk, reserving both liquids. Spread the elk and fatback on a half sheet pan and place in the freezer. In a saucepan, melt the butter and sauté the shallots over medium heat until fragrant and translucent. Add the reserved liquid from the elk and cherries and, over medium high heat, reduce it to a little less than a cup. It should be very thick and syrupy. Transfer to a small bowl and refrigerate. Next, set up the meat grinder with the metal parts from the freezer. Using the small die (1/8-inch holes), grind the elk and fat back together. Then transfer the grind to the cold food processor bowl. Add the egg whites and the reduced chilled syrup. Purée until well combined then, with the motor running, add the cream in a thin stream. Process until the mixture is uniform in color, scraping the bowl as needed. Transfer the mix to a chilled bowl, add the pistachios and mix until uniformly distributed. Refrigerate. Line a 1½-quart terrine with cling film (a small application of spray oil
helps). Then line the terrine with German-style smoked prosciutto. Layer the elk and pistachio mix in increments with cherries. Repeat until the terrine is full. Fold the prosciutto over the top followed by the cling film. Place the covered terrine in a 150-degree water bath and set it in the oven. Cook for about an hour or until a thermometer inserted into the middle registers 145 degrees. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit the top of the terrine, cover it with foil and weight it with two or three food tins to compress the terrine as it cools. Take it easy and use only a judicious weight. You don’t want to squeeze the flavoring juices out. After it comes to room temperature, refrigerate overnight. FOR THE TERRINE SPICE MIX Quatre Épices (French for “four spices”) is the usual starting point for seasoning a terrine. Curiously, Quatre Épices is usually five or more spices but almost always includes white pepper, ground cloves and ground ginger. If your elk is strongly flavored, crushed juniper berries are an appropriate addition. Put all the ingredients in a spice mill and process until finely ground. Store in a cool, dark place.
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Photo: Tim Garling
RECIPE
In a Landscape sets the genre—and newfound listeners—free in Oregon’s wildest settings
CLASSICAL MUSIC, LIBERATED written by Cathy Carroll
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Hunter Noack performs at Wallowa Lake State Park in June as part of his In a Landscape: Classical Music in the Wild outdoor concert series. (photo: Arthur Hitchcock for In a Landscape)
LYING UNDER the nine-foot Steinway in the middle of a meadow at sunset, they felt the music resonate in their bodies as never before. Wading through a creek in a fragrant pine forest, Rachmaninoff washed over them. At the top of Mount Bachelor, they peered hundreds of miles over alpine lakes and valleys, Ravel unraveling in their ears, heightening the beauty. From Oregon’s dunes, waterfalls and wine country to its deserts, deepest lake and cathedral-like, river-carved canyon spires, pianist Hunter Noack’s 1,200-pound grandpiano-on-a-flatbed-trailer phenomenon, In a Landscape: Classical Music in the Wild, is transforming the classical music experience. Wireless headphones for each guest capture the music, freeing both Noack and his audience from concert halls as well as the requisite attire and pricing, both of which can pinch. A nonprofit with support from dozens of partner organizations, sponsors and
foundations allows the artist to reach stunning, remote spots across the state and a few beyond. For nearly a third of the guests, it’s their first live classical music experience. Many are invited for free. And, America’s taking notice. The project has gained national media attention, and in the first week of Noack’s latest release, In a Landscape, it reached the top of the genre’s Billboard chart, nudging out Yo-Yo Ma in the spot. What began as nine performances in 2016 has grown to sixty per year, and for the last seven years, Noack’s partner, Thomas Lauderdale, the Portland founder of the internationally acclaimed band Pink Martini, has been a significant creative influence. In some ways, In a Landscape has been in the making since Noack was a boy, growing up in Sunriver, where his father was a golf pro and his mother, who ran the Sunriver Music Festival, first taught him how to play when he was 4 years old. He grew up hiking, fishing, kayaking and insisting on practicing five hours a day, getting up before dawn to be at the piano, in front of large windows that would bring the outdoors in. A scholarship to Interlochen Arts Academy, the nation’s premiere boarding school for young artists, at age 11 (he raised half of his tuition by recycling cans he collected at the Sunriver golf course with a bike buggy). Studying continued at San Francisco Conservatory, University of Southern California and Guildhall School of Music and Drama in London. Throughout, a love for theater pervaded his desire to create a new kind of music experience. He learned from Lauderdale the history of the Works Progress Administration, its thousands of free concerts and plays presented in public lands. Growing up, he associated the Depression-era program with only trails, parks and structures such as Timberline Lodge. “What inspired me was that with the government plan, the arts were part of it, and they were seen to be as important to the overall health of our society and a kind of rebooting of the economics,” said Noack, 33. “It brought the fine arts out of the spaces that can sometimes feel exclusive, and brought them into what [Frederick Law] Olmsted believed were our most democratic spaces, which are public parks and our public lands … not only presenting arts in approachable ways, but cultivating music appreciation and general arts appreciation, in addition to commissioning new works and employing artists.” In a Landscape’s nonprofit model fosters that. “We work really hard to make concerts that feel like community events, especially when they’re in rural areas that don’t have the same access to performing arts,” he said. Year-round fundraising subsidizes $70 tickets, keeping them at about $35, while about $60,000 in tickets last year went for free to locals of the landscapes as well as to other groups such as People of Color Outdoors. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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Photos: Arthur Hitchcock for In a Landscape
Noack’s In a Landscape brings classical music to stunning, remote spots across Oregon and beyond.
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bout the same time, Noack discovered the WPA, he had started reading John Muir. A favorite quote: “Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul.” After years of rehearsing and performing indoors, he longed to be outside. He envied flautists and other musicians who could easily throw their instrument in a backpack and perform in nature. Devising a way to play outdoors has changed how Noack practices and performs. “What’s amazing about performing in a concert hall is that so much thought is put into creating the perfect space for this music—the acoustics, the way the seats are, the stage, there’s so much money and energy and tradition that facilitates this really beautiful celebration of music. So when we take all of that stuff away and not just take it away, but then replace it with an environment that’s ever changing, every moment is something entirely different—the light is changing, the scents are changing, the ambient sounds are changing all the time. It’s like another role in the play. It’s like another character in the performance experience. It’s almost like we’re having a conversation together, instead of it just being me.” It feels more dynamic for Noack as well as the audience. Gazing at the sky as Noack plays, the raptors soaring into view overhead seem perfectly choreographed with the
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music. The breeze through the cottonwoods seemingly becomes the woodwind section. Leaves quake as would a timpani. In introducing each piece, Noack, lithe and blonde, moves around the stage, sharing surprising tidbits about the composers and interesting aspects to listen for in the music. Before the adagio from Ravel’s Piano Concerto in G: “There’s this term in music called a hemiola, where you can hear two rhythms simultaneously. It’s not a Spanish disease … it’s a good piece to kind of walk slowly through the landscape. Or be still and watch something that’s slightly moving, like the leaves in the trees or some tall grasses or maybe the animals over there,” he said, gesturing in his signature red shirt to meandering wooly sheep. The leap from concert hall to bucolic spaces shifted Noack’s approach to music, something Lauderdale saw evolve since they met. “He was very stiff at the piano and very reserved and very quiet, and I think that after seven years, he’s less quiet and he’s having more fun,” Lauderdale said in a phone call from Budapest while on tour with his band. “I think that when he was growing up, practicing the piano was all about being very careful and doing things the right way. I’ve encouraged him just to be looser and more casual.” “And, he’s got this incredible project, in which you play sixty concerts a year. And most pianists, maybe play one
or two concerts a year. If you’ve gone to school to study classical piano—most people never get to actually be a concert pianist,” said Lauderdale. “But I think that the way that he’s been able to do these concerts and play multiple times a week and be in the great outdoors, he’s really blossomed and unfolded.”
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ABOVE Attendees listen as Noack performs during In a Landscape. Wireless headphones transmitting the music are provided to guests, allowing concertgoers to explore the landscape or relax during the performance.
he setting is just part of what makes In a Landscape dramatically different from virtually any other concert. Instead of an audience facing forward at the performer, they’re moving around, their eyes meeting those of fellow headphonewearing guests, which typically prompts a gentle smile from each. “People are more attuned to what’s happening, because we’re doing it together,” said Noack. “We’re all reacting to the landscape together. It’s also very personal for people, because the sound is right over their ears. It’s kind of simultaneously very intimate, and there’s something communal that happens.” That feeling takes on greater significance in rural areas, said Lori Noack, Hunter’s mother and executive director of In a Landscape. Most touring musicians go to a town, perform, go to their hotel and leave. For the Noacks and their small, dedicated staff and devoted volunteers, showing up locally, beyond the performance, is integral to what they do. In one town that has two restaurants, they’re sure to visit one each night. “It’s not just the music, it’s not just that hour and a half, it’s creating relationships with people that’s very important,” said Lori Noack, who has been producing classical music performances and managing nonprofits for decades. “In this time that we’re living in when everybody is so divided, and here we come, out from Portland … to Fort Rock … there was this couple from Eugene, very liberal, and I heard them standing behind me talking to this guy who was a trapper in Lake County, and I got very nervous … And he said, ‘Well, yeah, you fancy people over the mountains, you make these rules and you don’t know what it’s like for us to wake up and have to carry out your rules and how they affect us. And they just had this conversation that went back and forth.” That ethic hasn’t gone unnoticed. Pat Reser, co-founder of The Reser Family Foundation in Beaverton, which has supported In a Landscape, said, “I think the genius of Hunter is taking the music to the people as opposed to expecting them to come to him to receive it. We can talk in volumes about the value of music, what it does to the spirit, what it does for healing, what it does for happiness and fulfillment. And so these kinds of things that can support a healthier humanity are really important in terms of providing support, because it is forever. It crosses age, ethnicities, all kinds of barriers, and allows people to SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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Chris Hornbecker
“I think that this project, In a Landscape, is the most exciting classical music project in America right now,” said Thomas Lauderdale (left), founder of Pink Martini, shown here with Noack. “There isn’t anything that I think is more far-reaching and groundbreaking and also pushes the culture forward.”
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“What’s amazing about performing in a concert hall is that so much thought is put into creating the perfect space for this music—the acoustics, the way the seats are, the stage, there’s so much money and energy and tradition that facilitates this really beautiful celebration of music. So when we take all of that stuff away and not just take it away, but then replace it with an environment that’s ever changing, every moment is something entirely different—the light is changing, the scents are changing, the ambient sounds are changing all the time. It’s like another role in the play. It’s like another character in the performance experience. It’s almost like we’re having a conversation together, instead of it just being me.”
share something that they may not ever have an opportunity to share with those people again, or in any other circumstance. So I just think it’s incredible.” For artist Kathy Deggendorfer, founder of The Roundhouse Foundation in Sisters, the Noacks’ work exemplifies the programs her organization supports—ones that inspire creativity and connect people with each other and their sense of place in Oregon’s rural communities. “We love that In A Landscape presents a new lens for the audience to engage in the arts,” she said. “Hunter’s playing and desire to give insight into the music and lives of the composers encourages us all to do something really needed right now—listen more.”
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oack’s concept is emblematic of Oregon arts, known for trailblazing, as was Lauderdale’s Pink Martini, formed in 1994 as a little orchestra of sorts, drawing inspiration from music from around the world, crossing genres of classical, jazz and old-fashioned pop. Lauderdale wanted to bring political divides together with inclusive musical soundtracks for fundraisers for causes such as civil rights, affordable housing, cleaning up the Willamette River, funding for libraries, public broadcasting, education and parks. Lauderdale, 52, has collaborated with dozens of artists ranging from Phyllis Diller, Carol Channing and Rita Moreno to Rufus Wainwright, filmmaker Gus Van Sant, Courtney Taylor-Taylor of The Dandy Warhols, The von Trapps and the original cast of Sesame Street. “He never plays by any fad,” said Noack. “It’s what he cares about—the music and the heart and the beauty of not just the art, but of the person. He champions it
because he sees something beautiful in it. And that, to me, is really refreshing and continues to be so grounding and inspiring to me, because it’s not what’s happening in our culture, it’s not what people with influence and power usually do.” “I’ve seen him in environments with other leaders in the music industry, and I’m sort of shocked that on many, many occasions his voice has the most integrity because he challenges people to think about what’s the right thing to push the culture forward—to move us in a more beautiful direction,” Noack said. Lauderdale brings that out in others, Noack said, including himself. “I feel like he encourages me to check in with my heart instead of checking in with what’s outside, like what I see on my phone or what’s trendy—I can’t even believe I’m saying that word—but I just feel like he inspires me to be honest, and that’s one of the most important things to me.” That authenticity brought acclaim to Lauderdale, and now to Noack, said Kerry Tymchuk, executive director of the Oregon Historical Society and a fifth-generation Oregonian. “Being profiled on CBS News Sunday Morning, for culture aficionados, that’s the Holy Grail. How In a Landscape has grown shows that he’s really tapped a nerve. And just how unassuming he is, how down to earth. Both of them are—they don’t have big egos. Despite their massive success, they’re just so much fun to be around and great people and interested in what’s going on in Oregon.” MORE ONLINE
See additional photos from the In a Landscape concert series online at www.1859oregonmagazine.com/inalandscape
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Erin Hanson Oil painting Erin Hanson has spent thirty years developing a unique style of oil painting known as open impressionism. She finds inspiration directly from nature, re-creating its motion and vivid colors. With loose and expressive brush strokes and a wet-on-wet technique, Hanson captures the movement of the landscape with a mosaic, stained-glass effect.
Art Harvest Studio Tour of Yamhill County
The Artful Way to Explore Oregon’s
Wine Country written by Kerry Newberry
IN 2022, THE Art Harvest Studio Tour is celebrating twenty-eight years with a record fifty artists presenting their work over the first two weekends of October. There’s a spectacular variety of media: printmaking, painting (abstract and realistic), sculpture, clay, wood and art lamps. The regional program began in 1993, when an organization of visual artists opened their studios to the public for the first annual tour. Sponsored by the Arts Alliance of Yamhill County, the event represents artists from Amity, Carlton, Dayton, Dundee, McMinnville, Newberg, Sheridan and Yamhill. While there are several public exhibits offered in various locations, the largest exhibit includes works by all participating artists and will be held at the Chehalem Cultural Center in Newberg, from October 4 through December 2, 2022. “The artists are excited to engage with the supporting public, and we anticipate record-breaking visitor attendance,” said Art Harvest Studio Tour coordinator James Nelson. You can get a preview of the wonderful range of art in the following pages. For more information about the artists and tour details, visit www.artharveststudiotour.org. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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Marion McMuldren Mixed media painting Marion McMuldren’s art embodies nature’s three dimensions, plus the fourth—time. Every painting has undergone repeated transformations. She celebrates nature, both the seen and unseen, the present and the past. Her deeply textured paintings reveal layers of interacting colors, while the shapes play around the canvas as if alive.
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Rebecca Kiser Acrylic painting Rebecca Kiser masterfully composes her emotional landscapes through compositions where she explores surprising textures and mysterious shapes. In this piece, she layers in the majesty of trees, along with receding hills and peaceful mountains. Kiser hopes to spark within the viewer a sense of connection and belonging to this region.
Bruce Ulrich Mixed media painting Bruce Ulrich uses an approach to painting that he calls “what happens if I do this?” When it is pleasing, he keeps it in the work. If not, it is altered, covered and manipulated, which adds layers of visual history. It is the evidence of these decisions that creates mystery and wonder for the viewer. As you see through these abstract worlds of color and shapes, you find visual enjoyment.
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3 1) Edward Leo Sheerin Acrylic painting and collage
3) Steve Tyree Bronze and steel
Edward Sheerin’s work is informed by his unique spiritual journey, where there is no line between them. His influences range from the twelve-step recovery process, Taoism and Buddhism to poetry and the mystics of many spiritual traditions, particularly Lao Tzu and Rumi. Through using many media and painting techniques, he provides layers of experiences, which will surprise the viewer as he delights in the excitement and stories it presents.
Steve Tyree’s sculptures are based on his knowledge of nature and its wildlife. Starting from sketches, he designs multiple pieces to interact with each other, and they become animated through his skills as a metal artist. He hopes these fabricated metal works inspire people to appreciate the bird or animal in terms of form, shape, balance and movement.
2) Jake Rockwood Hand-turned wooden bowls
Inspired by architectural shapes, angles and the concept of dimension, James Violette combines various materials, wood, metal and fabrics to create both aesthetic and functional light fixtures. He strives to create ambiance through a piece that is balanced and sculptural and also casts dramatic shadows and light.
Jake Rockwood’s exquisite wood bowls are created from locally grown Oregon white oak, bay leaf maple, walnut, fir, cedar and cherry. All material is natural wind-fallen or reserved from a local chipper mill. These bowls are food safe and finished with walnut oil so they reveal the natural beauty of the wood.
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4) James Violette Lighting fixtures
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James Dowlen Mixed media painting “I inhale the gems of life around me, the naturally beautiful, spiritual inspirations, the oddly profound and the rare and the unusual.” James Dowlen’s medium is the true inspiration that drives the art process, and his paintings offer elegance, a precision of technique and aesthetic pleasure.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 84 ADVENTURE 86 LODGING 90 TRIP PLANNER 92
pg. 98 The mighty Mount Shasta in Northern California lives in the physical and spiritual worlds.
Discover Siskiyou
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 98
Famous Food
Healthy Living & Family Farms One of Oregon's most famous agriculture valleys now has its own Food Trail. Highlighting the amazing diversity of our food and beverage artisans, the Rogue Valley Food Trail features 51 businesses on three different itineraries: Famous Food, Healthy Living and Family Farms. Look for the signs at your favorite food spots from Grants Pass to Ashland. Download RVFT Map at RogueValleyFoodTrail.com
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SouthernOregon.org
TravelOregon.com
travel spotlight
Culinary Wanderlust Exploring Oregon through food trails written by Joni Kabana
Joni Kabana/TravelOregon.com
HIT THE TRAILS this season, with fresh local foods and libations as your guide. It’s no secret that Oregon is a foodie’s mecca, but did you know that many regions in Oregon have charted farm trails to guide you through culinary bliss? One such trail is the River to Hills Farm Trail spanning Umatilla and Morrow Counties where you can find sweet berries, sunshine-kissed melons and local libations. Stop by the Farmer’s Cup in Boardman to fuel up on delicious coffee, and fill your basket with fresh-picked produce and flowers. Get your berry fix at K+K Berries, learn about specialty watermelon vodka at Walchi’s in Hermiston then pick up honey at Oregon Trail Honey in Stanfield. If you’d like to experience a farm stay, consider booking the Hen House at Blown Away Ranch in Ione. Here you will be able to forage in their garden, collect eggs for breakfast and exchange greetings with farm animals. Can’t get enough Eastern Oregon local fare and tastings? Continue on the trail for microbrews, award-winning wineries and more. See the full River to Hills Farm Trail map here: www.riverhillsfarmloop.com. Once you are hooked on this unique and informative way of exploring our beautiful state, check out the other food trail locations here: www.traveloregon.com/ things-to-do/eat-drink/oregon-food-trails. Bon Voyage and Bon Appétit!
Oregon’s emerging food trails are a source of joy and bounty throughout the state.
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Glacier 45 Distillery This all-Natural distillery has earned 30 medals since opening in 2018. Their tagline says it best: “We didn’t invent Vodka…we just made it better!” All spirits are made from non-GMO kosher corn. Varieties include: regular, huckleberry, cucumber, coconut, pepper, hot cinnamon, blood orange and citrus mango. G45 also crafts gin, bourbon whiskey, and mandarin orange bourbon whiskey.
Barley Brown's
Latitude 45 Grille
Copper Belt Winery
Baker City's premier brewery & restaurant features beers that have won more than 100 national and international beer awards. The brewery taproom features 22 taps, a view of the brewery, and occasional live music on the stage. Next door at the pub there's full bar, and family friendly dining in big comfortable booths with a kitchen that prepares burgers, steaks, pastas, and salads.
Located in Baker City, our ingredients are locally sourced and organic whenever possible. All stocks, sauces, dressings, and desserts are prepared in house to the highest standard. We feature three different types of burger, angus, wagyu, and bison, all which come from ranches within 10 miles of Baker. We also carry local beer and vodka and enjoy supporting Baker City's community of farmers and ranchers.
Through a pioneering heritage, Copper Belt Wines focuses on the production of small lot artisan white and red wines. Located 20 miles east of Baker City, Oregon in the Snake River Valley AVA, our wines are fruit forward approachable, age worthy and consumer friendly. By growing all of our own fruit at some of the highest elevations in Oregon we can provide a unique blend of wines unlike any other.
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adventure
Fat Tire Snow Biking Getaways Central Oregon is the playground for this pursuit written by Jen Sotolongo
FAT BIKING is a relatively new sport. The first fat bikes were released on the market in 2009. Prior to then, early snow cyclists would pin or weld together two rims to create a wider base to accommodate travel over snow and sand. While the trails aren’t quite as zippy, mountain biking enthusiasts who miss their sport during the winter months can add a little girth to their wheels and hit the snow for some fat biking fun. “Fat biking opens up a lot more of the time that you can ride because you have more float with the wider tire,” said Gary Meyer, longtime fat biker and the Winter Trail Steward for the Central Oregon Trail Alliance (COTA). While one can take a fat bike and ride along a snowy forest service road, the place to ride in the state is Central Oregon. With its abundant sno-parks, vast network of snowmobile trails and mountain biking culture, the region has embraced the fat bike, making it an ideal destination for a winter getaway on two wheels.
Meyer put in considerable effort advocating for fat bike-specific trails in Bend and was granted permission to add two trails to Wanoga Sno-Park on a trial basis for two months of the year. Eight years later, the trails have become a permanent fixture and there are plans to add a third trail. The 3 PSI trail is a 3.5-mile loop with 329 feet of elevation gain, and the Outer Loop trail is 6.2 miles with 327 feet of elevation gain. For those interested in a guided tour, Bend-based Cog Wild Bicycle Tours rents fat bikes and also leads one-day fat bike rides to various locations throughout the region, depending on the weather conditions. Outings generally head to Wanoga, but may opt for Tumalo Falls or Dutchman Flat Sno-Park, depending on the weather conditions. The Tumalo tour starts at Skyliner 86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Nate Wyeth/Visit Bend
Bend
Three seasons aren’t enough for some bikers like this one in Central Oregon.
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FAT BIKING ETIQUETTE Fat bikes can ride on any of the trails at the Bend-area sno-parks aside from those designated for Nordic skiing. Cyclists must also yield to all other users while riding and keep an ear out for snowmobile riders, who have difficulty seeing other users. Tire width should be 3.8 inches or wider, with a maximum PSI of 5, depending on conditions. Bend Trails updates suggested tire pressure information regularly. If snow conditions cause you to leave a rut more than one inch deep, riding is discouraged as it is challenging to fix the trail once it ices over.
Rich Bacon/Visit Bend
adventure
GET THE RIGHT GEAR Bring plenty of layers during a winter fat bike ride. Merino wool is an optimal choice because it insulates efficiently and wicks moisture quickly. While you will certainly warm up while in motion, cold winds and descents will bring on a biting cold that can lead to hypothermia. Pay special attention to the hands and feet. Lobster gloves are ideal for winter riding because they keep fingers warmer, but still allow for use of the fingers to handle brake levers. Another option for keeping the hands warm are pogies, mitts that attach to the handlebars, but still allow the hands to sit directly on the handlebar. Most riders will do well with a winter boot or summer hiking boots and a thick pair of wool socks combined with flat pedals. Under your helmet, wear a thin, but warm merino wool hat or wear a thicker hat with a helmet one size larger than you’d normally wear. In particularly cold and windy weather, a balaclava will keep the face warm and prevent wind chap. Winter temperatures and conditions make it easy to forget about proper hydration, but the drier air evaporates sweat quickly, and it’s easy to become dehydrated. Water bottles may freeze, so pack water in an insulated bottle or pour in slightly warm water to start. If you use a water bladder, then be sure to get an insulated cover for the tube. Fat bike rentals are available from several shops in Bend, including Sunnyside Sports, Hutch’s Westside and Crow’s Feet.
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Wanoga Sno-Park in Bend is a new groomed trail for fat bikes.
Sno-Park and hits the gated road that leads to the waterfalls. If the conditions are right, bikers can loop back along the Tumalo Falls Trail. Another alternative ride begins at Dutchman to cycle along the snowmobile trails. Strong riders can aim for Todd Lake, three miles one way. Guests can stay at adventure hub LOGE Bend where Cog Wild is based for easy access to trails and to the tour.
Elk Lake For the more ambitious, park the car at Dutchman Sno-Park and ride
along the closed Cascade Lakes Highway 14 miles to Elk Lake Resort. Book a stay at the resort and spend a day or two enjoying the groomed snowmobile trail.
Paulina Just 40 minutes outside of Bend, Ten Mile Sno-Park near Paulina Lake is open to fat bikers who can ride along the main road all the way to East Lake. Be sure to stop at Paulina Falls to check out a stunning winter scene. Sunriver Resort is a short drive from the sno-park parking lot.
With its abundant sno-parks, vast network of snowmobile trails and mountain biking culture, Central Oregon has embraced the fat bike, making it an ideal destination for a winter getaway on two wheels.
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Time stands still at The Drifthaven in Gearhart on the Oregon Coast.
Lodging
The Drifthaven at Gearhart written by Kerry Newberry THERE ARE NOT enough places where time stands still. Where you can be surrounded by immense beauty and immersed in simple pleasures. Where on evening beach walks, the elk outnumber the humans. Come morning, the tiny main street has one of everything you need—a bakery, a garden shop, an art gallery and that spot where you can order a perfectly made espresso. While Oregon’s coast has a smattering of these little magic towns, there’s only one Gearhart. Luckily, there’s a new place to stay when you need to reset and unwind. At the newly renovated and reimagined Drifthaven at Gearhart, you’ll find twelve seaside cottages stocked with all the provisions you need for an idyllic getaway. Explore town on one of the stylish beach cruisers, then circle back for a breezy wagon packed with supplies for s’mores and a beach bonfire. Or grab a lawn game to play in the private garden with a cocktail from the boat bar. Whether you stay for one night or for a week, the seasalt air and slow dancing hours will ensure you return home rejuvenated. 67 N. COTTAGE AVE. GEARHART www.thedrifthaven.com
The Drifthaven offers its guests a bonfire kit and recreational options such as tennis and bocce.
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Photos: The Drifthaven at Gearhart
ROOMS Each of the recently renovated seaside cottages pop with personality thanks to vintage nautical finds sourced by Oregonbased interior designer Ashley Tackett. To realize her vision, the designer traveled up and down the coast visiting antique shops to procure seascape paintings, objets d’art and heirloom lighting. The twelve cottages range from one-bedroom and two-bedroom suites to large king studios. Some include cozy sitting areas with fireplaces and petit kitchens with Instagram-worthy wallpaper.
FEATURES You’ll find everything you need for beach activities in the impeccably stocked garage—from lawn games and clam digging kits to comfy beach chairs and blankets. Best of all, are the beautiful beltdrive beach cruisers, ideal for exploring the sleepy streets lined with sprawling cottages that could easily be the setting of a Nora Ephron film. On sunny days, take advantage of the private garden with a firepit, BBQ, lounge chairs and a boat bar made from an old fishing vessel named Doreen.
DINING Count on a complimentary breakfast basket delivered each morning with local pastries, fruit and juice. For espresso drinks, By the Way opens at 7:30 a.m. and uses the excellent Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters. You can also find fun gifts, local artwork and many other things you never realized you needed at this charming shop. Warm up at Pacific Way Cafe with the signature chowder and find snacks, wine and other sundries at their micromarket. The adjacent bakery is a morning hub for beach dogs and their humans.
AMENITIES All guest rooms have luxurious bedding, plush robes, speedy wifi, smart entertainment and speakers. You’ll also find a pantry stocked with local snacks, coffee and teas along with an electric kettle and a French press. Rooms with kitchenettes include a fridge, stove and microwave. Pets are welcome for an additional $25 fee, and allergen-free designated rooms are available upon request. For rainy days, board games are on hand and Beach Books, one of the best book shops on the coast, is one town over.
Eugene, Cascades & Coast
trip planner
Wooden drift boats were the only and early form of transportation along the challenging McKenzie River.
McKenzie River Valley
Finding Blue Pool and other epiphanies in this wooded wonderland written by James Sinks IN THE McKenzie River Valley, it’s almost like Mother Nature saves the best for last. From the start of the snowmelt, the picturesque pocket in the central Cascades—home to dramatic waterfalls, crystalline lakes, and moonscape lava fields—attracts flocks of visitors to bike, hike, fish, paddle, soak and exhale. President Herbert Hoover, a frequent vacationer and angler here, was likely referring to the McKenzie when he wrote of Oregon in his memoirs. “Within these woods,” he said, “are neverending journeys of discovery.” With so much to do and so much to see, you’d think it couldn’t possibly get more breathtaking. Then autumn arrives. As crowds thin, nature’s picture show begins. Like deciduous peacocks, hardwoods jockey to show off their best colors. Reds. Yellows. Oranges. In fall, you can still experience the expected and unexpected joys of the McKenzie, just against a more vivid backdrop and with more elbow room. Frigid and clean, the McKenzie River tumbles and swirls westward some 90 miles from its birthplace at Clear Lake to its meetup with the Willamette River. Along the way, it
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glides through deep fishing holes, over rollicking rapids, underneath covered bridges, and through a succession of cozy river towns, including Leaburg, Rainbow and McKenzie Bridge. One of those communities, Blue River, is in the midst of a major rebuild. Much of the town was in the path of the calamitous Holiday Farm Fire of 2020, which devoured nearly 174,000 acres and hundreds of structures. Wildfire scars are increasingly common along Highway 126, the thoroughfare in the valley. Yet while charred areas may be jarring for those who remember the McKenzie for its seemingly endless forest canopy, change is also rebirth. “The burnt out hollow of a massive Douglas fir set in stark contrast to an azure blue sky is its own kind of juxtaposed artistry,” said Jonnie Helfrich of guide service A. Helfrich Outfitters, and part of a famous family clan that began plying the McKenzie a century ago. “The river itself is unchanged. The great fishing spots are there. The rapids are exhilarating. The calm pools are relaxing. When our guests look for the beauty around them, they see it.”
COME FOR THE OUTDOORS
STAY FOR THE MEMORIES
Sally McAleer/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Day
Sally McAleer/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Michael Sherman/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Sally McAleer/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
COMFORT FOOD • HIKING + BIKING • WATERFALLS
FROM TOP Koosah Falls is an easy hike for all to enjoy. Leaburg Fish Hatchery raises millions of trout and salmon for the McKenzie and other rivers. Soft surfaces abound along the 26-mile McKenzie River Trail. Blue Pool, or Tamolitch, is a true wonder along the trail.
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When packing for a McKenzie escape, don’t forget the obvious. Hiking boots. Kayaks. Bicycles. Golf clubs. The kids, if you have them and have room. Also, download or print trail maps because cell service will be spotty. Less obvious but also important: quarters. Just across one-lane Leaburg Dam, the Leaburg Fish Hatchery rears millions of rainbow trout, steelhead and Chinook salmon annually. But the biggest attractions are large white sturgeon, who hang out in a show pool, next to a repurposed gumball machine that will exchange fish food for those quarters. Just up Highway 126, comfort food is king at the circa-1951 Vida Cafe. Stop for a breakfast (or lunch) of frisbee-sized pancakes or, if you’re not the driver and can nap, spend some quality time with a more-than-half-pound McKenzie Monster cheeseburger. Before settlers arrived on the Oregon Trail, the McKenzie River Valley attracted indigenous people to find obsidian, hunt, fish, and collect hazelnuts and berries. Some of the landscape retains Native names, but the river itself was named after a Scottish Canadian fur trader and explorer, Donald McKenzie. If the river is the valley’s star attraction, the co-star is the McKenzie River National Recreation Trail, known by locals as MRT. The 26-mile pathway starts at the river headwaters and mostly parallels the river to the U.S. Forest Service McKenzie River Ranger Station, just east of the hamlet of McKenzie Bridge. For mountain bikers, the scenic downhill trail is among the country’s best. Two-wheel adventuring types can catch a Horse Creek Lodge shuttle to one of several access points, depending on skill level and time availability. Rentals are also available. Pedaling the entire length will take four to five hours, depending on fire closures and endurance. Exploring instead on two legs? Beeline to the 2.6-mile waterfall loop, where 100-foot-high Sahalie and 70-foot-high Koosah falls are practically neighbors. Nearby, a moderate and sometimes crowded 4.2-mile hike will take you to the alder and evergreen-ringed Tamolitch Pool, one of the state’s watery wonders. It’s also known as Blue Pool because of its ice blue color. Happily, there’s also warmer water nearby. After pizza at Takoda’s in Rainbow, soak your tired legs at Belknap Hot Springs, once used by indigenous people for religious and healing ceremonies. Today, river water is heated to 102 degrees and pumped into two large outdoor soaking pools. Resort guests dunk for free, and visitors can buy hourly passes for $8. If there’s still daylight, head across the resort footbridge and explore the sprawling grounds. As if the McKenzie isn’t magical enough, you may stumble into a landscaped secret garden with pillars, fountains and probably fairies, and decide to stay forever.
Colin Morton/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Katie McGuigan/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
trip planner
Day
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Proxy Falls is a photographer’s dream setting. The Old McKenzie Highway is open to vehicles in the summer and cyclists in the spring. McKenzie General Store has goods for the trail and killer burgers.
MCKENZIE RIVER • SCENIC ROUTE • LAVA FIELDS A McKenzie visit isn’t complete unless you actually get onto the McKenzie. Fortunately, there are lots of ways to do it, and plenty of people to help you, no matter which option—you know—floats your boat. Almost a century ago, there was just one method to ride the river: wooden drift boats, designed to nimbly navigate swift water. McKenzie dories, as they’re known, are celebrated with a festival in the spring. Among the early guides in the early twentieth century was Prince Helfrich, who was boating the river as a teenager and became a living legend on not just the McKenzie, but for running previously inaccessible waterways across the West. Shortly after he died in 1971, a boat landing near Vida was named after him. Today, his descendants are among dozens of fishing and rafting outfitters that will take you on half-day or daylong trips. Dress warmly. The McKenzie General Store is less store and more restaurant these days, and your picnicking palate will be pleased with organic fare including burgers, wings and burritos. Order food for the road. There’s daylight burning. Open to traffic between mid-June and November, the Old McKenzie Highway connects McKenzie Bridge and the Central
Oregon town of Sisters. The meandering roadway, which follows a former wagon road, is a popular scenic bike route, so drive carefully. En route to the summit, stop at Upper and Lower Proxy Falls, located in the Three Sisters Wilderness Area. Accessed via a 1.6 mile loop trail, Lower Proxy Falls plunges 226 feet over a basalt face and at the base, the spray will also get your face (and hair) wet. A federal annual or day pass ($5) is required. Eruptions from Belknap Crater, the most recent 1,500 years ago, blanketed 65 square miles in the upper Cascades with a surreal lava field. The place is so otherworldly that it once served as a NASA training ground for moon-bound astronauts. At the top, in the midst of that ocean of black rock—and built from it—is the Dee Wright Observatory, a castle-evoking lookout assembled by a crew from the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps. It’s named after the project’s construction foreman, who died before it was completed. Inside, you can peek through rocky peepholes at a panorama of peaks, including Mt. Washington, the Three Sisters, Black Butte and Mt Hood on clear days. From the observation deck atop, snuggle into jackets to watch the sun set, as it splashes the mountains in waning golden light. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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Colin Morton/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
EAT Clear Lake Resort www.linnparks.com/parks/ clear-lake-resort McKenzie General Store/ Obsidian Grill www.mckenziegeneral.com McKenzie Station Pub and Espresso www.mckenziestationpub. wixsite.com Takoda’s Rainbow www.takodasrainbow.com Vida Cafe www.facebook.com/ TheVidaCafe
STAY Belknap Hot Springs Resort www.belknaphotsprings.com Inn at the Bridge www.mckenzie-river-cabins.com Loloma Lodge & Cabins www.lolomalodge.com McKenzie Riverside Cottages www.mckenzieriverside cottages.com
PLAY A Helfrich Outfitters www.helfrich.com Dee Wright Observatory www.fs.usda.gov Horse Creek Lodge www.horse-creek.com Proxy Falls www.fs.usda.gov Tokatee Golf Course www.tokatee.com
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Maggie Henderson
Wyatt Pace/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
MCKENZIE RIVER VALLEY, OREGON
trip planner
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Tokatee Golf Course is an 18-hole gem hidden in the McKenzie River Valley. Dee Wright Observatory has been a favorite among parents and kids for gazing and learning. Clear Lake is as advertised.
Day CLEAR LAKE • GOLF • SMOKED BRISKET The McKenzie begins its journey at Clear Lake, which needs to be seen to be believed. Order breakfast from the rustic cafe and slip a canoe or kayaks into the water, or take a brisk morning hike amid the blushing maples on the 5-mile trail circling the lake. If you have a fishing pole handy, the place is home to both native fish and stocked rainbow trout. Formed by a lava dam about 3,000 years ago, the lake is fed via porous aquifers, where chilly water percolates out after decades underground. Only non-motorized watercraft are allowed in order to protect the lake’s renowned clarity, which makes it seem at times like boats are floating in air. You can see a submerged stand of upright trees 100 feet under the surface, remarkably preserved for thousands of years thanks to year-round water temperatures that hover near 40 degrees. If icy water makes you think of your icecold golf skills and maybe chilled beverages, SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
you’re in luck. It’s a short drive to Tokatee, where you can drive a golf ball at one of the state’s highest rated, and beautiful, public courses. The fire missed the tree-ringed place by a half mile. Call ahead for tee times. Even if you aren’t the golfing sort, the view of the Three Sisters is stunning, there are chairs by the non-used fire pit, and the drinks are robust: You’re only allowed two Toka-teas. For your final stop, McKenzie Station Pub and Espresso is like a garage sale met a restaurant and they had a baby. The twenty-hour-smoked brisket is impressive, and there’s plenty to browse while you wait. Make reservations, however. It can be tough to get a table, especially on Sunday nights. That’s when locals pour in for the weekly bingo game, and the air fills with happy repartee and colorful stories that are matched only by nature’s show outside.
W H E N Y O U R B A C K YA R D I S A M I L L I O N A C R E S O F W I L D E R N E S S
t e g t n a ’ c You ! t s e w h t r o N e r o m y an
The Northwest is a way of life, not just a place – and you can’t get any more Northwest than Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. Explore snowcapped mountains, lush temperate rain forests, and rugged Pacific Coast beaches within nearly one million acres of wilderness.
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northwest destination A sacred place for tribes, Mount Shasta has become a spiritual draw for people of the Pacific Northwest.
Metaphysical Beacon
The spiritual retreat of Mount Shasta in search of Telos written by James Sinks
Discover Siskiyou
TO SOME, like meteorologists, the disc-shaped lenticular clouds that frequently form on Northern California’s Mount Shasta are a perfectly natural phenomenon, caused when rising warm air is sandwiched by cooler air above. Yet to others, those actually aren’t clouds at all, but rather flying saucers touching down on the mountain—or maybe they are clouds that are hiding UFOs inside. And that’s just the beginning of otherworldly and magical happenings that are said to happen on or near the 14,179-foot Cascade Range volcano, the second-highest peak in the state. The dual-cone Mount Shasta has long been a centerpiece of spiritual legend, since it was a sacred place for the many indigenous tribes including the Shasta and Modoc who once shared the Siskiyou region, straddling the Oregon and California border. Today, the mountain and unassuming slopeside community of Mount Shasta, population 3,077, are metaphysical beacons. Each year, thousands come from around the globe to commune at spiritual retreats, to meditate at energy vortexes, to browse in crystal shops and boutiques, and to hunt for extraterrestrials and families of Sasquatch.
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northwest destination
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mount Shasta is a twoheaded mountain with trails galore. Railroad Park Resort features dining in classic railroad cars. Body work at Sacred Mountain Spa. Paragliders flock to the area for its winds and open air for flight. Lower McCloud Falls along the Volcanic Scenic Byway.
Ask psychics, shaman and mystics, and they’ll tell you that Mount Shasta ranks among the world’s most transcendent destinations, joining other hotspots like Sedona in Arizona, Stonehenge in England, and Angkor Wat in Cambodia, according to the people who know such things, such as blog authors. Spiritual tourism is so economically important here that the local chamber travel guide devotes a section to enlightenment businesses. Visitors can see shrines like the Shasta Abbey Buddhist Monastery (by reservation), relax in yoga and meditation sessions from the Shasta Yoga Institute, and recharge at Sacred Mountain Spa, where the menu includes solo or side-by-side massages. At the city park, you’ll find the cold, clear—and some say, healing—springs that begin the Sacramento River. The region also happens to be a multifaceted conventional adventure-seeker paradise, if you’re into that sort of thing. The mountain and surrounding Shasta-Trinity National Forest teem with Instagram-worthy hikes and vistas, a 40-mileand-growing rail trail conversion, four-wheeler routes, kayakfriendly lakes, a winter ski resort, waterfalls along the Volcanic 100 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Photos: Discover Siskiyou
The region also happens to be a multifaceted conventional adventure-seeker paradise, if you’re into that sort of thing. The mountain and surrounding Shasta-Trinity National Forest teem with Instagram-worthy hikes and vistas, a 40-mile-andgrowing rail trail conversion, four-wheeler routes, kayakfriendly lakes, a winter ski resort, waterfalls along the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway, and relics of the gold rush era that made Siskiyou County popular in the 1800s.
Legacy Scenic Byway, and relics of the gold rush era that made Siskiyou County popular in the 1800s. Beer and wine await at Pipeline Craft Taps & Kitchen gastropub, and explore a global smorgasbord at Indian, Thai, Norwegian, Italian and Mexican restaurants. Just down the freeway, steak and pasta arrive nightly in a restored rail dining car at the Railroad Park Resort, near the town of Dunsmuir and with a view of the rocky Castle Crags. (You can sleep in old rail cars, too). Dinner reservations are recommended.
MOUNT SHASTA, CALIFORNIA
northwest destination
EAT Hari Om Shri Ram www.hariomshriram.com Pipeline Craft Taps & Kitchen www.facebook.com/ PipelineMtShasta Railroad Park Resort www.rrpark.com Seven Suns Coffee & Cafe www.discoversiskiyou.com/ restaurants/seven-suns-coffee-cafe
STAY Inn at Mount Shasta www.innatmountshasta.com Mossbrae Hotel www.mossbraehotel.com Mount Shasta Resort www.mountshastaresort.com
PLAY AirXpansion Paragliding www.airxpansion.com Black Butte Trail www.fs.usda.gov McCloud River waterfalls www.hikemtshasta.com/mccloudriver-trails/mccloud-river-falls-trail Sacred Mountain Spa www.sacredmountainspa.com Shasta Abbey Buddhist Monastery www.stastaabbey.org Shasta Vortex Adventures www.shastavortex.com Shasta Yoga Institute www.shastayoga.com
In the mornings at Seven Suns Coffee & Cafe, your cup of magic (and breakfast burritos) are served in a quaint stone storefront. For those who prefer adrenaline rushes to metaphysical ones, climb upward 1,850 feet on the 6.1-mile, out-and-back, difficult-rated trek to the top of Black Butte cinder cone, which looms over the city and Interstate 5. Or for $250, you can enroll in a four-hour intro class from AirXpansion Paragliding, which includes solo flights by the end of your lesson.
No matter what lures you here, it might be irresistible to try to locate an entrance to the legendary crystalline city that some believe is buried beneath the mountain. The place, called Telos, is reportedly home to an ancient civilization known as Lemuria, which dates back to the time of Atlantis. UFOs come to the mountain to bring supplies, say local believers who hold a festival every summer. Nobody seems to have found the way in, however. Or rather, they’re not telling. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2022
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Pendleton
Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
20 MotoLodge Pendleton
52 Okapi Reusables
84
River to Hills Farm Trail
26 Hood River Valley Harvest Fest
54 Chetco Community Public Library
86
Wanoga Sno-Park
26 DANCIN Vineyards
54 Salem Public Library
90
The Drifthaven at Gearhart
28 Stoneboat Farm
56 University of Oregon
92
Sahalie Falls
46 Portland Nitro
58 Pushdot Studio
98
Mount Shasta, California
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Visit our website to make an appointment
Be my rock
717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Maloy’s is now OPEN BY APPOINTMENT ONLY. Book online to shop our collection of fine antique jewelry, or for custom or repair work. We also buy.
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
(541) 385-3062
Until Next Time Lower South Falls at Silver Falls State Park. photo courtesy of TravelOregon.com
