Washington’s Magazine
TRIP PLANNER: LEAVENWORTH PG. 80
The Best Crêpes
Two Modern Houseboats
A Yakima Valley Wine Retreat
August | September 2018
y t n u o b t he
THE BOUNTY ISSUE
e u s is
PASTA F O A G A G THE LADY ST BEERS A E Y D L I W IRT JAMS D S T E E GIRL M CIPES E R N O M BLE SAL A N I A T S U S RMET U O G Y T THE DIR COOKBOOK CAMPING
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August | September
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360.671.3990 bellingham.org SEAFEAST FESTIVAL | SHOPPING | CRAFT BREWERIES ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA | WATERFRONT HOTELS
Garden Path Fermentation co-founder Ron Extract checks on the fermentation process.
2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Into the Wild photography by James Harnois Beer starts simple—malt, water, hops, yeast. That yeast is one of the places where things can get very interesting. Take, for example, Garden Path Fermentation and its friends in Washington, who are capturing wild yeasts from their backyards, locally grown fruits and tree bark and using the cultures to brew up funky, wild ales. This is not your father’s beer. This isn’t even your older brother’s beer. This is at the cutting edge of delicious. (pg. 58)
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3
FEATURES AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018 • volume 10
64 Flower Power Welcome to Triple Wren Farms, where fresh-cut flowers are king. photography by Katheryn Moran
52 Local Love Savor the state’s most remarkable flavors, from cheese to shellfish to blueberries. written by Corinne Whiting
Katheryn Moran
58 Fermenting Wilderness Breweries in Washington are at the forefront of wild beer, made from the yeast living in the microscopic wilderness that surrounds all of us. written by Mike Allen Triple Wren Farms, near Bellingham, grows a variety of flowers, including sweet peas.
DEPARTMENTS
LIVE 14 SAY WA?
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018 • volume 10
Summer’s not over yet. Hit the Washington State Fair, watch the vintage tugboat races and take your campout food to the next level.
20 FOOD + DRINK
28
Get your French fix with the best crêpes around the state, then switch to noodles and dumplings at Yakima’s E.Z Tiger. Not done yet? Try Orcas Island-made shrubs and jams from Girl Meets Dirt.
24 FARM TO TABLE
Salmon is arguably Washington’s most-celebrated snack, sustaining communities for centuries. Learn more about how it gets to your plate, and how you can re-create the magic at home.
Benjamin Benschneider
28 HOME + DESIGN
22
80
Houseboats are about as Seattle as it gets. Here, two modern revivals demonstrate that these floating homes can be streamlined, art-filled and sleek. Bonus: learn how to incorporate art into your living space.
34 MIND + BODY
Just 20 years old, Cole Paton is hitting the mountain bike trails as a pro rider for Giant Bicycles.
36 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Linda Miller Nicholson, the “Lady Gaga of Pasta,” proves once and for all that pasta can be artistic and delicious.
THINK 42 STARTUP
WISErg seeks to cut grocery stores’ food waste by turning it into highquality, organic liquid fertilizer.
44 WHAT’S GOING UP
Attractions around Washington await—from The Waterfront in Vancouver to The Spheres in Seattle.
46 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
You can help save the native bee population by helping the Xerces Society collect data for its Pacific Northwest Bumble Bee Atlas.
48 MY WORKSPACE
Icicle TV
The Hops Whisperer of Segal Ranch is producing some of the most popular aroma hops in the world.
10 11 86 88
Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time
50 GAME CHANGER
Blue North seeks to provide fresh fish through a humane harvest.
EXPLORE 72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Head to Washington State University for the state’s best ice cream and cheese, made by students.
74 ADVENTURE
Whether traveling by horse or by hayride, you are guaranteed to try some of the Yakima Valley’s best wines on this adventure.
78 LODGING
In Seattle, the Mayflower Park Hotel has been in operation for ninety years, and it retains its charm.
80 TRIP PLANNER
COVER
Leavenworth, Washington’s quirky Bavarian mountain town, will transport you to another continent.
photo by Jim Henkens (see Oh, the Pastabilities!, pg. 36)
84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Walk among the giants in California’s Redwood forests.
6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
ESCAPE It’s closer than you think.
S TAY A N D P L AY FROM
$239
FOR TWO
Book your tee time today! Based on availability. All packages incur a 7% Tribal tax. Summer package rates expire 9/30/18. Visit cdacasino.com/golf for more packages.
1 800 523-2464 | CDACASINO.COM |
Worley, Idaho | 25 miles south of Coeur d’Alene
CONTRIBUTORS
JAMES HARNOIS Photographer Fermenting Wilderness
MIKE ALLEN Writer Fermenting Wilderness
KATHERYN MORAN Photographer Gallery
CORINNE WHITING Writer Trip Planner
I love working with passionate people. I was so impressed to see how much time and care went into the art of brewing. As a cider drinker who cannot drink beer anymore because of the gluten, I’ve never wanted to try one so badly. True craftsmanship is alive and well here in the state of Washington. Cheers to that! (pg. 58)
I do enough background research to come to my stories with a set of preconceived notions. What makes the reporting process worthwhile is when those preconceptions get torn up by reality. I’ve had plenty of traditional Belgian and American wilds, so I have come to expect sometimes bracing sourness in almost every bottle. But the direction Washington wild brewers are taking is entirely different— wild with restraint. A little yeast revolution is happening right now. (pg. 58)
Driving out the country roads to find Triple Wren Farms was peaceful all on its own, but arriving on the farm property was so inviting and colorful. Sunflowers shining brightly, the widest variety of sweet pea flowers I have ever laid eyes on and a huge metal cooler painted with big yellow flowers welcome you as you come down the main drive. The owners of the farm told me how enlivened they are to have started this new life path and how much it has improved their quality of life. (pg. 64)
It seemed fitting to research Leavenworth’s Oktoberfest last fall with my visiting Irish friend, since we had experienced the real festival together (in Munich!) many moons ago. Seeing Washington’s version of Bavaria through her eyes reminded me just how fortunate we are to have such culture and natural beauty in our midst. Leavenworth is a captivating destination in any season, and Sleeping Lady always leaves me feeling blissfully restored. (pg. 80)
8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
EDITOR Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER Kelly Rogers
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd
BEERVANA COLUMNIST
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jackie Dodd
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Mike Allen, Melissa Dalton, Nick Engelfried, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Lauren Kramer, Lauren Lofthus, Megan Morse, Ben Salmon, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting, Gina Williams James Harnois, Jim Henkens, Katheryn Moran
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9
FROM THE EDITOR LIKE WALKING INTO the middle of a field of tulips, the color is what grabs you first in the pasta parade behind Linda Miller Nicholson, or “The Lady Gaga of Pasta.” We caught up with the pasta artist as she kneaded, rolled and cut pasta from sheets of dough in colors as rich as Tuscan summer sunsets. Welcome to The Bounty Issue of 1889 Washington’s Magazine. Turn to page 36 to be inspired by the work of a woman who was once told, as a child, that she wasn’t artistic. Today Nicholson epitomizes art with pasta made in clever shapes and colors—from bonnets from The Handmaid’s Tale to multicolor sombreros. Your sense of beauty will thank you. Next, take a step into the wild with us, where wild fermenter Shane Johns is brewing Flandersstyle beers with yeast strains floating around in Tacoma. Now a yeastmeister who works with Engine House No. 9 brewery in Tacoma, Johns has spread his wings to make many beers from distinctly Pacific Northwestern yeast strains. In Fermenting Wilderness on page 58, we explore brewers who trek into the hinterlands of yeast to bring its bounty to beer drinkers in Washington. The foundational piece of The Bounty Issue, Local Love, takes us into Pike Place Market, across to the Olympic Culinary Loop, over to Wenatchee’s Stemilt Growers Retail Store and down the Hood Canal to Lilliwaup for the Hama Hama OysterRama and up to Port Angeles for the Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival. If your sense of restraint isn’t already overrun, you are not a foodie. This feature dances through the heart of the Washington food scene and ends with recipes that showcase Washington bounty, including, of course, clam chowder. On Orcas Island, meet Girl Meets Dirt. Audra Lawlor left Wall Street to grow and harvest fruit that she turns into amazing jams and puckering drinking vinegars, or shrubs, under her Girl Meets Dirt label. (See page 22.)
10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Walk into Brimmer & Heeltap near Ballard and you will find chef David Valencia preparing salmon caught off of Lopez Island by the sustainable farmers and fishermen of Jones Family Farms. In Tulalip Resort Casino’s Blackfish restaurant, chef David Buchanan deploys the time-honored Native American tradition of cooking salmon on sticks and over alderwood coals. These chefs and more honor us with their best salmon recipes on page 26. While this issue is a map to better culinary days, you may want to spend the end of yours at Rooftop Brewing Co., where, as our Beervana writer, Jackie Dodd, puts it, the “why” doesn’t matter, as long as you’re up on the rooftop. Cheers!
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photo by Caleb Wallace
Third Beach in Olympic National Park, Washington.
washington: in focus Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. 1889mag.com/in-focus
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11
SAY WA? 14
FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 36
pg. 36 Linda Miller Nicholson proves pasta can be art.
Jim Henkens
FOOD + DRINK 20
1002 W Riverside, Spokane WA Spokaneclub.org
say wa?
ca mark le yo nd ur ar
Tidbits & To-dos
Rite in the Rain Like a true Pacific Northwesterner, Rite in the Rain products are both environmentally friendly and able to handle precipitation. Based in Tacoma, the company’s special paper was initially designed to help loggers working in poor weather conditions. These journals defy Mother Nature. Rite in the Rain offers wood-based products and recyclable paper that can be exposed to water without falling apart. riteintherain.com
Patrick Hagerty
Firefly Kitchens’ Fresh & Fermented Cookbook
Washington State Fair
fireflykitchens.com
With concerts, rides and a rodeo, the Washington State Fair has something for the entire family. Continuously ranked among the United States’ ten largest state fairs, this summer’s lineup includes big names like Kahlid, Florida Georgia Line, Brett Eldridge, Macklemore, Rascal Flatts and comedian Gabriel “Fluffy” Iglesias. Other highlights include an anatomical moving dinosaur exhibit and a farmer-for-a-day SillyVille interactive exhibit. The fair runs from August 31-September 23. thefair.com
14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
Based in Seattle, Firefly Kitchens is all about the healthy probiotics found in fermented vegetables, and its new Fresh & Fermented cookbook is no different. This beautifully illustrated book is full of simple recipes that will have you incorporating this versatile food not only into your main dishes but also in smoothies, cakes and oatmeal.
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
say wa?
Olympia Harbor Days The Olympia Harbor Days festival is entertainment mixed with natural vistas. Celebrating the world’s largest vintage tugboat races along the Puget Sound’s Port of Olympia, the festival also brings music, food, arts and crafts, and history over the three-day event. Say farewell to summer at this family fun event, which runs from August 31-September 2.
Karla Fowler
harbordays.com
m
calark yo end ur ar
m
calark your end ar
Squirrel Fest Known for its squirrel suspension bridges, Longview takes it to the next level with a Squirrel Fest on August 18. Start the day off at the “go nutty” parade, then explore the vendors, check out the squirrel cam and watch Circus Cascadia with the kids. Later, get in on the karaoke contest, relax at the beer and wine garden and end the evening at the main stage for a lineup of musical performances. lvsquirrelfest.com
Tom Sawyer Country Coffee Savor a cup of bold coffee from Tom Sawyer Coffee Company, a roaster based in Spokane. This company takes pride in supporting and sourcing its beans from family-owned coffee farms. We love the single pour-over variety pack for summer camping excursions. tomsawyercountrycoffee.com AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15
say wa?
Alicia Hauff
Musician
A Lifetime of Music
Boat Race Weekend’s ties go way back written by Ben Salmon
Listen on Spotify
LOTS OF BANDS are centered around old friends from high school or college. And then there’s the bond that forms the core of Spokane’s Boat Race Weekend. Drummer Jay Orth and guitarist/vocalist Evan Kruschke first met all the way back in kindergarten. “I complimented him on his cool lunchbox,” Orth said, “and we’ve been best friends ever since.” Fast-forward a number of years—past the duo’s middleschool band Whizz*Bang!—and you’ll find Orth, Kruschke and another longtime pal, bassist Collin Price, enrolled at Gonzaga University, scrambling to prepare to play a coffeehouse show in place of an act that canceled. The trio learned seven covers in seven days and “made it work,” Orth said. That led to cover shows at campus houses, which led to the group writing its own songs, just for fun. It’s still fun, but now these guys take it seriously, as evidenced by Boat Race Weekend’s sophomore album, Near & Dear, 16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
which is packed with muscular guitar rock rooted in earnest Midwestern emo, thoughtful hardcore punk and the ambitious atmosphere of bands like Explosions in the Sky. Where the band’s debut—2015’s The Talisman—is a bit faster and harder, the new one slows down and goes for a more expansive sound, while lyrically tackling big life events and the associated big feelings. That’s the sound of a band maturing, developing and pushing outward, even after all these years. “We’ve grown as musicians (and as songwriters who know) how to achieve the sound we’ve been striving toward,” Krushke said. “We just love making music and sharing it with people. Art and music in general is a powerful force for change, and we hope to make music that people can connect to and form a relationship with.”
OCTOBER 11-14, 2018
CHANGE HAPPENS HERE.
BendFilm.org
say wa?
Bibliophile
Class Up Your Campout New cookbook elevates camping cuisine
Ryan Rober Miller
interview by Sheila G. Miller
The trio behind Dirty Gourmet make wilderness a little more tasty.
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
say wa?
AIMEE TRUDEAU, Emily Nielson and Mai-Yan Kwan have a message for the outdoorsy set—camping doesn’t have to be all franks and beans (though they have nothing against a good hot dog once in awhile). With their new cookbook, Dirty Gourmet, from Washington’s Mountaineers Books, the trio are helping you class up your next campout. We’re talking baked brie, roasted garlic and dutch oven sticky buns. With more than 120 recipes, Dirty Gourmet has tips and tricks for all food situations, whether you’re car camping, hitting the trail for a day trip or going into the backcountry. Kwan gave 1889 the inside scoop on taste tests, lessons learned and the ever-elusive savory oatmeal. How did the idea to make this cookbook come about? We started the blog over eight years ago—it was just a little passion project we did on the side. Aimee and I had gone on a bike tour for four months and camped the whole way, from Los Angeles to Vancouver, Canada, and then across Canada. I continued on to Boston after that. During that time, Emily was an outdoor science instructor in Big Bear, so she was also living the camp life for three years, teaching and living in cabins. We were all living outside for extended periods of time and cooking outdoors. That’s how Dirty Gourmet started—when you get into situations where you’re outdoors a lot and you cook outside enough, beans and hot dogs and the classics are fine but you need to go beyond that at some point. I love to make myself a good old hot dog, but we tried to go beyond what you typically think of as camp food. Why is eating well while camping something that appeals to you? Aimee and I had a realization on our bike tour. You meet a lot of cyclists on the road and you end up camping together, and we would look at how other people were cooking and realized, ‘Whoa, our meals are pretty complicated.’ We would think all day, ‘What are we going to make tonight?’ We would plan our whole route so we could go to a grocery store and spend two hours grocery shopping. It was just really about what we like to eat and seeing what we could experiment with. Our mission is to inspire people to eat great food outdoors. People spend so much time planning trips, and then the food is just the last piece of it. We’re
trying to put more emphasis on the food, which is a huge part of the experience when you’re outdoors. You’re connecting with nature and refocusing and that’s really a healing experience. Food becomes more important outside your comfort zone. How did you test these recipes? It was definitely trial and error. What we like to let people know is, we have made all the mistakes for you, so hopefully you’ll avoid making them again. We first tested the idea for skillet lasagna, a one-pot meal, on a snowshoeing day trip, and we had a bunch of people with us. We were so excited. We brought a thin backpacking pot and a single-burner camp stove. It just burned. Everyone had to eat burnt lasagna on that trip. So lesson number one, bring backup just in case it fails. Don’t try a recipe blind on the first time you go out there. One recipe I was working on that did not work at all is savory oatmeal. I like savory breakfasts. I was super determined, and I tried a bunch of combinations, with miso, with a Mediterranean flavor with pine nuts and sundried tomatoes. People could not even wrap their heads around it. It was, ‘No, I don’t want to eat this.’ That’s a fail. I’m going to move on from that. What advice do you have to set up campers for success? For something like car camping, I really encourage people to stick to recipes that are their go-to at home. Don’t try to do something you’ve never done before in the outdoors. Set up
a camping pantry, a bin where you keep all those things you need, like a spatula and salt. That’s what happens when you go camping— those essential things have been forgotten, and something simple becomes quite complicated. Also premeasuring things in general, even for car camping. I always recommend that you portion everything out and put in Ziplocs or mason jars, which are watertight, so you don’t have to worry about them going into a cooler or a bin. Even eggs—crack them into jars. What’s the next step for you? We do small, intimate dinners for a dozen people or for more than 200 people on multiday campouts. I think our next step is to figure out how to clone ourselves. We really have to scale that. The great thing is we’re in demand, people want us to come out and come on a trip and cook for them, but we need to build out our team. This summer, we’re teaching a handson backpacking cooking class, which will be set up for up to twenty people doing everything by themselves like a traditional cooking class but outdoors and backpacking. That’s a new thing for us. A little thing in the back of my mind is, we’ve made one cookbook and we had to really refine our cooking skills. I’m still developing new recipes, so I keep thinking, ‘OK, this would be good for our next cookbook.’
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19
food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of ChocMo Chocolate Bistro
Nocino Manhattan 2 ounces Black Heron bourbon 1 ounce Stone Barn Nocino 1 ounce Carpano Antica Formula sweet vermouth 2 dashes Angostura bitters Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Stir vigorously and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a Luxardo cherry and enjoy.
Rooftop Brewing offers good beers and great views.
Beervana
A Brew with a View written and photographed by Jackie Dodd CRAIG CHRISTIAN HAS a casual answer for why he won’t rent out his taproom for private events. “It would just be about the money, and that’s not why I’m here,” he said. That shows you what his bones are made of. A group of fiercely loyal regulars who form the pulse of the taproom, even on a typical drizzly Seattle day, matter to him in a way that speaks volumes. “All on their own they started a Facebook group called Rooftop Regulars,” he said, smiling like a proud parent putting an aced exam on the fridge. Christian has instant likability that you feel the second you meet him. It’s not just his disarming transparency, his quiet humility, or the way he creates a community wherever he goes. What reminds you—more than anything—that the owner of Rooftop Brewing is the sort that you want to run in the same circle with is how, even when he tries, he can’t talk about himself or his accomplishments for more than a few moments without turning the spotlight on someone else he adores. Maybe it’s the way Ladro coffee roasts their beans, or how Counterbalance Brewing is raising money for charity through the Beer Trumps Hate campaign (the one Christian started), or the way the food from the Vietnamese food truck that makes the rounds at Rooftop pairs so well with beer. “I put a roof deck on an A-framed Tudor-style house that had no business being there,” Christian said of Rooftop Brewing’s origin story. In reality, it all started in London decades ago. Before he was of legal drinking age in the United States, Christian found himself in the heart of the UK with a desire to learn how to brew and a country that was ready and willing to teach him. Is it that he learned to make beer in the hallowed ale-soaked terrain of England that makes his beer so good? Is it the multiple degrees in science that make it so consistent and flawless? Maybe. Or maybe it’s some other unidentifiable quality that keeps the awards coming and the fan base growing. But the “why” of it all doesn’t matter once you’re up on the rooftop of Rooftop with that cold Stargazer IPA in your hand. Don’t forget to grab a banh mi sandwich while you’re there. Christian will be the first to tell you how amazing they are. 1220 W NICKERSON ST. SEATTLE rooftopbrewco.com
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Tours|Education|Exhibits E N L I G H T E N M E N T R A R E A Y R E . C O M
1943 Columbia Park Trail Richland, WA 99352 509.943.4100 www.visitthereach.org
OPEN Tues-Sat|10am-4:30pm Sun |12-4:30pm Closed|Monday
food + drink
CRAVINGS MUSSELS There’s nothing quite like eating mussels in view of the water. At Front Street Grill, you can also eat them steeped in a spicy, satisfying green curry sauce, with or without linguini underneath. 20 FRONT STREET COUPEVILLE fsgcoupeville.com
PESTICIDE-FREE WINE It’s likely you’ve never had a wine-tasting quite like the one at Paradisos del Sol. Winegrower Paul Vandenberg follows the “sip, sip, bite, sip” tasting method. You’ll get a little plate with tiny paired bites and experience wines like the lightly bodied sangiovese or the fortified zort (perfect with chocolate). 3230 HIGHLAND DRIVE ZILLAH paradisosdelsol.com
BLUE CHEESE CHOCOLATE CAKE
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Audra Lawlor is the girl behind Girl Meets Dirt. Shrubs, or drinking vinegars, are made from island fruit. Lawlor makes jams and preserves.
Gastronomy
Girl Meets Dirt written by Cara Strickland IF YOU WANDER in to Girl Meets Dirt for an informal tasting, you might just get to chat with Audra Lawlor (the girl who met the dirt). Her story is just as romantic as it sounds—she left a high-powered Wall Street job to build a life with her love on Orcas Island. Another of her loves can be found in the orchard, where she harvests island fruit, often historical varieties, and uses it to make old-school jams and preserves (without commercial pectin or refined sugar), most of them single varietal, to let the fruit speak for themselves. She’s also been making drinking vinegars, like the bitter lemon lavender. All this adds up to unique island flavor you can bring home and savor long after you bid the ferry goodbye. Buy straight from the source, online or in person, or at a few farmer’s markets on the islands and near Seattle.
203 5TH AVENUE SOUTH EDMONDS cheesemongerstable.com
UPSCALE COMFORT FOOD The perfect meal after a long day of wine tasting, Public House 124 does hearty basics with a satisfying twist. Don’t miss the Kraut Kruga—a German dumpling stuffed with sweet onion, cabbage, grass-fed beef and horseradish creme fraiche. 124 EAST MAIN STREET WALLA WALLA ph124.com
208 ENCHANTED FOREST ROAD EASTSOUND, ORCAS ISLAND girlmeetsdirt.com
22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
If you weren’t aware you could have a craving for blue cheese chocolate cake, you’re in for a treat at The Cheesemonger’s Table. A generous slice of decadent chocolate layer cake is topped with chocolate frosting (the middle layers have a kick of cheese). The whole thing is sprinkled with blue cheese, so you can have a little with each delicious bite.
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
CRÊPES PAVZ CAFE BISTRO If you think a crêpe should be a light meal, this probably isn’t the place for you. Try something savory like the spicy Italian sausage crêpe, stuffed with housemade Italian sausage, roasted red bell peppers, onions and Kalamata olives, topped with marinara, basil and a host of cheeses and baked in a small casserole. If you still have room, try a sweet crêpe, like the Black Forest, stuffed with chocolate gelato and cherries preserved in port wine. 833 FRONT STREET LEAVENWORTH pavzcafe.com
FLEUR DE SEL ARTISAN CRÊPERIE The James Beard-nominated chef Laurent Zirotti and his wife, Patricia, both from France, own this delightful crêperie. Try the Monte Cristo for breakfast (complete with rhubarb compote, if you desire), the Bison Meatloaf for lunch (with a kick of horseradish), or stick to a tangy classic with the lemon curd (you’ll want to add the optional blueberries). 909 SOUTH GRAND BOULEVARD SPOKANE fleurdeselcreperie.com
AB CRÊPES As they put it on their T-shirts, a crêpe “beats the fluff out of pancakes.” Try a sweet crêpe like the Apple Pie (flame-roasted Fuji apples, “ABC’auce,” graham crackers and cinnamon drizzle) or the savory ABCT (avocado, bacon, cheddar and tomato). 1311 RAILROAD AVENUE BELLINGHAM facebook.com/ABCrepes
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP E.Z Tiger’s dan dan noodles. Dumplings are an E.Z Tiger specialty. Cowiche Canyon Kitchen offers variety, including grilled artichoke.
Dining
Cowiche Canyon Kitchen + Icehouse and E.Z Tiger written by Cara Strickland THE MENU AT E.Z Tiger advertises noodles, dumplings, cocktails and shelter. For Graham Snyder, a descendant of another Yakima Snyder you might remember from childhood bread, shelter means hospitality, a little bit of protection. When you walk into one of his restaurants, he wants you to know you’ll be cared for, something he refined during his time in the restaurant business in Los Angeles. That’s certainly the case at both of his wonderful spots, though they couldn’t be more different. Cowiche Canyon Kitchen offers fresh, innovative tastes of the region, while E.Z Tiger flawlessly borrows flavors from the Pacific Rim. The steam buns alone (with perfectly crispy pork belly inside, courtesy of chef Cameron Slaugh) are reason enough to return, but whatever you order, you can bet it’s made with care, and comes with a side of shelter. COWICHE CANYON: 202 E YAKIMA AVENUE E.Z TIGER: 222 E CHESTNUT AVENUE YAKIMA cowichecanyon.com ez-tiger.com
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23
farm to table
Farm to Table
In Celebration of Salmon Finding time-honored traditions in modern-day meals from the sea written by Corinne Whiting
ON A LAZY SUNDAY, you sit on the sun-dappled patio of Brimmer & Heeltap, a tucked-away gem between Seattle’s Ballard and Fremont. Cascading hibiscus dances in the breeze. Light slants into this secret garden. This is one of those meals that will linger long after your last bite. The true star of the show, without a doubt, is the salmon. Washington diners are spoiled by the myriad ways in which this fish shows up on their plates in almost any season. At Brimmer & Heeltap, chef David Valencia reaches back to his roots when preparing Alaska salmon aguachile, a popular option among the eatery’s loyal patrons. “I grew up eating ceviche and aguachile [a cold seafood dish, traditionally served with shrimp] with my uncles at Mariscos Chihuahua, a local restaurant in Arizona,” he said. “The acidity, raw onion and spice bring me right back to those warm days eating out of a cocktail glass in the parking lot.”
Sustainable Harvesting Brimmer & Heeltap works with Mikuni Wild Harvest, which in turn sources from Jones Family Farms (JFF), a family-owned and operated business producing grass-fed meats and shellfish on Lopez Island. JFF also sources and distributes fine-quality Northwest seafood. Kevin Mock, sales associate for Mikuni, explained the allure of working with JFF. “They’re directly in contact with the producers, fishermen and farmers in their area,” he said. “They know the families, their stories, their industries, their struggles.” JFF has participated in sustainable practices of Puget Sound and Alaskan wild salmon for many years. “Due to recent inconsistencies in salmon runs, increasing costs and our changing business needs, we have cut back on our commercial fishing efforts while partnering with local, long-standing, 24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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quality-oriented fisherman to maintain a fish supply. In order to assure the highest quality salmon, fish are bled, dressed and iced immediately and handled with care.” Mock said the salmon tastes clean and fresh because it doesn’t have far to travel. “By eating that fish,” he said, “[diners are] supporting the local fishermen of the Salish Sea, who are the stewards of our local waterways.” JFF offers fresh salmon from May through late November— and frozen and smoked salmon year-round. As the basis of its own fishing operation, Fraser River Sockeye became the family’s first love. “Since time immemorial,” these fish have passed through the San Juans, and islanders have depended upon their bounty. The Joneses purchase as much as possible from Jack Giard, a Lopez Reef net fisherman, and Dan Post and Arn Veal, gillnetters from Lopez and Guemes Islands. “The Fraser fish are unlike any other sockeye; there is poetry to their flesh and we revere them as the historic lifeblood of our island community,” the JFF website states. “These fishermen also catch Fraser River pink salmon on odd years. These fish, too, are particularly lovely.” The company gets the bulk of its local Coho from the Finkbonner family, who catch the fish in Lummi nation waters. Because the fish feed primarily on crab larvae, the fish taste more like lobster than other salmon.
farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A Jones Family Farms worker tends to the boat. Waiting for the fish. Hauling in a reefnet.
Honoring Tradition About 35 miles north of Seattle, Tulalip Resort Casino’s Blackfish is well-known for its signature preparation of the heritage salmon (AKA salmon on a stick). “It is based upon a time-honored and proven tribal technique for cooking salmon on sticks over alderwood coals,” chef David Buchanan explained. “We leave the skin on the salmon and use ironwood sticks to skewer the fillets—running the sticks tightly between skin and flesh.” After the fish has been seasoned, the sticks are angled over the coals. According to Buchanan, this slow-roasting method draws out the fish’s natural oils and lends a hint of smokiness to the flavor. Blackfish always serves wild salmon (never farmed), sourced primarily from Alaska and Washington. “The salmon on a stick preparation both reflects and maintains a portion of tribal history,” Buchanan said. “There is so much more here than just a piece of fish for dinner. It is about tradition, respect for Mother Earth, thankfulness and sharing with friends and family. A tribal member finds the ironwood locally by foraging for it in the wild. It is actually cut from oceanspray, which is indigenous to our area. A prayer of thankfulness is offered to the plant before harvesting only what is needed. He then hand-carves each stick.”
Similarly, an annual celebration honors the salmon for providing sustenance and expresses gratitude for those who have harvested and prepared it. As part of tribal tradition, any salmon that falls from the sticks can’t be served. Instead, this piece of fish gets offered to ancestors by “feeding the fire.” “All these things are important to the culture of the tribe, and we have the opportunity to keep a portion of this culture alive every day,” Buchanan said.
Home Prep Valencia said his favorite way to prepare salmon is “smoked, low and slow.” “Buy fresh!” he advised. “And don’t be afraid of three things. One—season generously with kosher salt. Pepper the salmon after it is cooked so the pepper does not scorch during the cooking process. Two—heat your pan before you cook the fish, giving it a better sear. Three—eat it pink in the center.” There’s no denying that salmon from this region has made a name for itself—and for very good reason. “I think what makes it delicious is that it is a part of the Seattle culture, and, when I think of [salmon], I cannot separate the city from the fish,” Valencia said.
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farm to table
Washington Recipes
Salmon Worth Savoring
Salmon Aguachile
SEATTLE / Brimmer & Heeltap David Valencia SERVES 6-8 FOR SALMON BRINE 2 ¾ cups water ¼ cup sugar 2 ¼ tablespoons salt 1 salmon fillet, 3-5 pounds FOR AGUACHILE 1 white onion, charred 1 bunch cilantro 3 serrano peppers, charred 2 ¼ cup fresh squeezed lime juice Salt to taste FOR PICKLED RADISHES 10-12 radishes, sliced thin 13 ½ tablespoons water 13 ½ tablespoons red wine vinegar 13 ½ tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons salt
Shio Koji Cured Grilled Salmon SEATTLE / Wa’z Hiro Tawara
FOR AGUACHILE Char white onion and serranos on an open flame. Once charred, place in blender with cilantro and lime juice and blend. Season with salt to taste. FOR PICKLED RADISHES Combine water, sugar, salt and vinegar and pour over radishes. Let them pickle for at least a day or two. TO FINISH Place cut salmon in a bowl with a little aguachile to season fish. Place on plate with pickled radishes, fresh red onion and cilantro.
Alaskan King Salmon Crudo
UNION / Alderbrook Resort & Spa Ben Jones
SERVES 2
SERVES 4-5
2 salmon filets, 2-4 ounces 3 tablespoons shio koji (fermented rice) 2 tablespoons grated daikon radish 4 tablespoons “tosazu” vinaigrette
16 1-ounce slices freshly sliced raw king salmon 4 ounces lime juice 4 ounces olive oil 32 lime segments Lime zest Black pepper (2 twists from a grinder) 7 tarragon leaves 1-2 sorrel leaves, gently torn 1 mint leaf, torn to small pieces ½ teaspoon flaked sea salt Lavosh crackers long enough to cover the plate
FOR VINAIGRETTE 4 teaspoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon mirin 1 teaspoon Usukuchi (light color soy) 1 tablespoon dashi Spread shio koji on both sides of the salmon filets and store in a resealable plastic bag. Marinate a minimum of 2 hours or up to overnight. Set the oven to broil on high and grill the fish for 4 minutes on one side. Turn fish over and broil an additional 1 minute until cooked through. Time may vary slightly depending on the thickness of the filets. Mix the grated daikon radish with tosazu vinaigrette and put it next to the salmon. Other additions can include green strawberry, salmon egg and grilled garlic scapes. Shio Koji Cured Grilled Salmon.
FOR SALMON BRINE Combine all ingredients until well dissolved and place salmon in brine for at least one day. Cut salmon to quarter-inch cuts.
Place lime segments on top of the slices of salmon and also squeeze a little on top of each piece. Zest a quarter lime over each plate. Add black pepper, tarragon, sorrel, mint and flaked sea salt. Cover plate with Lavosh crackers and top with the crudo.
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home + design
Float On
Houseboats have been a part of Seattle since the city’s early days—we step inside two modern versions written by Melissa Dalton
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Benjamin Benschneider
home + design
FROM LEFT The exterior of the South Lake Union houseboat features cedar siding, barn wood, red-painted metal and a large pair of eyes. Art is everywhere inside the houseboat.
Benjamin Benschneider
An Artistic Houseboat on South Lake Union Every remodel comes with its revelations. In 2011, a couple bought this floating home just a few slips down from their own, with the understanding that they would tweak a few fixtures and finishes to free the interior of its early ’90s aesthetic. (Think curved walls, glass blocks and institutional pink.) Upon finding water damage, however, the superficial makeover grew into a much bigger undertaking. “It was going to be a really light touch at first,” said architect Jim Graham of Graham Baba Architects, the firm that worked with the homeowners. Once the demolition started and the water infiltration was discovered, plans changed. “All of the walls were filled with mold,” Graham said. “That’s when [the project] really ballooned into, ‘All right, let’s change everything.’” Faced with a much more extensive renovation, the homeowners decided to personalize every inch of the houseboat to their taste, starting with the façade. The original exterior was a mishmash of features. “It was extremely dated and, stylistically, it was a Franken-house,” Graham said. He paired up with contractor Dave Boone to instill cohesiveness by swapping the kitschy green-painted shingles for streamlined
horizontal cedar siding, inset panels of reclaimed barn wood and red-painted metal, and a stern wrapped in vertical zinc panels. “I wanted to make sense of the massing in a way that broke down the chunkiness of the box,” Graham said. Once the water damage was remediated inside, the team’s goal was to “clean up inefficiencies” and create the perfect backdrop for the owners’ creative decorative style. In the open-concept living area on the upper level, this meant first addressing the view. After all, the clients were moving down the dock for the new houseboat’s prime location. “It’s at the end of the dock so it’s not pinned in. It has this great outward approach where the view is so much better,” Graham said. “Those houseboats tend to be pretty hemmed in. You have your dockside and your water side that’s open, but this one has three sides” fronting the water. A poorly positioned fireplace and stingy windows in the living area, however, were the de facto focal point. So the team replaced the entire wall with 18 feet of Nano doors. These now open to a deck encased with a sleek cable railing, ensuring unobstructed sightlines from the kitchen and the couch. Quirky
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Ed Sozinho
home + design
FROM LEFT The Wards Cove houseboat’s kitchen has walnut and white polyester-finished cabinetry. Outdoor living is easy on a houseboat.
additions, like a fire pole that connects the kitchen to the entry and a diving board off the deck, help to weave in the owners’ funloving personalities. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the artistic flair of the décor. Whether it’s the striking Tibetan Buddha eyes painted on the exterior or the wall in the living room swathed in a photo mural of the marina, there’s art at every turn. “The good thing is that it was full of mold,” Graham said of the houseboat’s transformation. “It gave us the ability to blow it all out, redo the plan, and clean it up.” And in the process, create a home that’s become the family’s work of art.
A Social Hub in Wards Cove After a 2010 trip to Thailand, where Kevin Gaspari saw waterbased communities in Bangkok, he became enamored with life on the water. This was a feasible pursuit in his home city of Seattle. “Houseboats are quintessential Seattle living,” said Gaspari, who works as a Realtor. In 2012, he and husband Kent Thoelke purchased a slip in Wards Cove, a former salmon processing center on Lake Union that was converted into a private marina with twelve houseboat moorings, just across the waves from Gas Works Park. “We heard about Wards Cove being built, and it was supposed to be the last dock space available to build floating homes, so we pounced,” Gaspari said. The couple then teamed up with architect Brian Brand of Baylis Architects and Trend Construction to create their ideal modern floating home, which would depart from the look of Seattle’s early houseboats. “They started as logging shanties for the timber industry. People would build their houses on the logs and move them around the lake as they cleared the timber,” Gaspari said. “We wanted a more modern aesthetic.” 30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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Since there were height and width restrictions for the structure, it was “basically a cube,” said Brand, who endeavored to “break the box up a little bit” with a medley of metal and fiber cement panels, and cedar siding. Inside the main living area, there are no structural walls or columns, so a series of 30foot steel beams provides the framework and sets the tone for the materials palette. Warm oak floors offer a counterpoint to the steel, and strategic window placement pulls the focus to the view outside. In the kitchen, walnut and white polyester-finished cabinets seem to float against the glass, while an entire wall of floor-to-ceiling glass doors overlooks the lake. The couple decorated the interior themselves. “I sell real estate, so I’ve been in lots and lots of homes. I’ve just picked up what I think looks great and works for us,” Gaspari said, describing their approach as “modern without being cold.” Classic Mid-century furnishings deliver striking silhouettes, while careful doses of color and pattern, such as the powder room’s bright orange sconces and inky wallpaper, personalize the scheme. Life on the water has its share of surprises, chief among them the amount of lake traffic that cruises by on a daily basis. The calls of the morning crew team could act as an alarm clock, Gaspari joked. “There’s always a moving view and it’s always really interesting to me,” he said. “It almost feels resort-like, like a vacation when we come home.” This is compounded by the ease with which they can entertain on the new houseboat, thanks to a roof deck and the indoor-outdoor flow, which has prompted another happy discovery—their tight-knit neighborhood community. “Our neighbors are fantastic,” said Gaspari, citing trips to Napa to bottle wine together (under the label Four Floats) and regular barbecues. “As a Realtor, I’m always ready to sell or buy, but I think this will be our forever home,” he said. “This is so unique that we wouldn’t want to leave it.”
Ed Sozinho
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Benjamin Benschneider
home + design
DIY: Incorporate Art into Your Home THE ARTISTIC FLAIR in the South Lake Union houseboat has us inspired. Here’s how the homeowners achieve such an artful effect in their interior décor.
with interior cupboard lights. The goal, said the homeowner, was not to necessarily see the images clearly but to set the mood.
1 EXPLOIT TEXTURE
The homeowners affixed a section of a vintage Golden Girl Cola sign to the front of the kitchen island. The texture of the sign lends an unexpected break in the fir cabinetry, while the colors relate to the nearby yellow-painted wall. 2
THINK BEYOND WHITE PAINT
The stairwell wall, dubbed the “Sunshine Wall,” was painted a bright yellow as a bright backdrop for various pieces of art.
5
CUSTOMIZE
In a nod to the aquatic neighborhood, the homeowner worked with a lighting designer to create the silk fabric overhead lights in the living area, in order to evoke jellyfish or bubbles rising out of the water. Each fixture has various colored bulbs inside in order to cast a different glow depending on the occasion.
INCORPORATE FOUND OBJECTS
Anything can become art if it’s displayed right. “For one of the doors we collected beer bottle caps from all over the world and just hammered them around a mirror,” said architect Jim Graham. 4
SET THE MOOD
The Plexiglass in the kitchen cabinets is lined with photos from the family’s travels and backlit 32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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SOURCE FROM FAR AWAY—AND CLOSE TO HOME
Since the family loves to travel, they pick up treasures along the way and weave those into their décor. For instance, one bedroom has a handcarved door from Morocco. The photo mural of the marina in the living area was photographed by a good friend of the family.
home + design
Go Bold with Artsy Goods from Pacific Northwest Makers Artist Gina Coffman studied biology, art, and landscape architecture in college and graduate school, and her paper mobiles reflect her diverse background. Made from high-quality construction paper or cardstock, each design is a synergy of color, shape and movement that draws inspiration from the natural world. coffmanmobiles.com
Brighten the inside of your cupboard with a handmade, 8-ounce drinking glass from Glassybaby, a glass-blowing outfit with hot shops in Seattle, Lake Oswego and Berkeley. The glasses come in twenty-three hues across the spectrum, from a vibrant pink to an iridescent “fizz” color to a more mellow topaz. glassybaby.com
Adorn the nearest wall with the distinctive Floe Hook from the Portland-based Bosque Design. The hooks are hand-cast in bronze in Oregon and have concealed hardware, all the better to keep the attention on the shape, which is intended to recall floating chunks of ice on a calm sea. bosque-design.com
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mind + body
Cole Paton is a pro mountain biker for Giant.
Reading, Writing & Professional Riding Cole Paton mixes college and pro cycling written by Sheila G. Miller
Cameron Baird
MOST 20-YEAR-OLDS spend the summer between their sophomore and junior years of college slinging beers at a bar, perhaps photocopying endless packets at an internship. Then there’s Cole Paton, a professional mountain biker from Cashmere, Washington, who will spend his summer traveling the world with his team, the Giant Factory Off-Road Team.
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mind + body
So, not your average 20-year-old. Take heart, at least, that he’s the youngest guy on the team and one of two rookies (the other is his college teammate, Stephan Davoust, 23). In contrast, Giant’s third cross-country pro is a 43-year-old who has been biking professionally almost as long as Paton has been alive. Paton came to cycling in about the most natural way possible. His family owns Arlberg Sports, a bike shop with locations in Wenatchee and Leavenworth. “I was kind of always the little shop boy riding around chasing everyone,” he said. “My dad took me to a few of these local races around here, and I just fell in love.” In high school, Paton ran cross country competitively for a few years. “But then I decided that riding bikes is a lot more fun, so I made the switch over my sophomore year,” he said. “I started following the Pro XCT circuit and there’s been no looking back since.” Being on Giant’s factory team has helped Paton’s racing. “Giant is helping me get to a lot more races, and then we have factory team support at every race, mechanics and all the equipment and stuff we would need,” he said. “It’s just a lot more support from the team and the company, which is really nice and allows a lot more doors to be opened.” But just because he’s a bike wunderkind doesn’t mean he wanted to skip straight to life as a professional racer. He is currently studying at Fort Lewis College in Durango, Colorado. “I wanted to go to school, just because education is really important to me,” Paton said. “But I also wanted to go to a place that would allow me to continue cycling and bring me to another level. The only school I really could find that would really fit that was Fort Lewis, and I couldn’t be happier with that choice.” Fort Lewis College has a very active cycling program—more than 100 riders, including his Giant teammate Davoust. Plus, the season is from September to November, after he’s finished riding for Giant each year.
“It’s pure collegiate racing,” he said. During the winter and early spring, Paton gets ready for the racing season with “more hours than intensity.” He also spends a lot more time in the gym working on strength. “I spend a lot more time putting myself under,” he said. Once the pro season starts, he averages about sixteen hours a week on the bike, but with more intensity. For the not so important races, Paton continues to train through them and use them as workouts. For more important races, the team tapers its training for several weeks. During the season, Paton visits the gym once or twice to do maintenance strength work. Depending on his workout, Paton changes his diet. If he does a hard ride, he eats plenty of carbs. If he’s taking it easy, it’s about healthy protein and fats. More than anything, he’s hungry all the time. “I cannot get enough food in,” he said, laughing. “I eat so much. That’s a main thing that concerns my coach, eating enough. I try to do that with healthy carbs and all that, but I’m taking in, like, 5,000 or 6,000 calories a day. I’m still growing. It’s a real pain (to eat so much), but it works.” That’s made a bit more challenging with the beer-and-pizza ethos of college. “It’s nice because I’m not in the dorms anymore,” Paton said. “That was impossible. But being able to cook what I want to cook is a lot better.” Paton is currently targeting the U23 U.S. national championships as his goal race this year. He’ll also compete in August in the Mont-Sainte-Anne Mountain Bike World Cup event in Canada, and in May he raced in Germany and Czech Republic in another world cup race. Long term, Paton has his eyes set on the Olympics—likely 2024, but he’s going to give 2020 a shot. Short term, he would like to win a national championship. “It’s been awesome to ride with Giant, and the team is a great environment,” he said. “I want to just keep having fun and riding bikes.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Cole Paton
Professional Cyclist Age: 20 Hometown: Cashmere, WA Current Location: Durango, CO
WORKOUT • Riding 6 days a week. • Intervals 3 to 5 times a week • Long recovery ride once a week • Strength, balance and coordination training 2-3 times a week • Core training every day • Technical/skills training 2-3 times a week • Stretching and self-massage every day
NUTRITION Favorite pre-race meal: Rice and egg stir fry—it’s low fiber and easily digestible Favorite superfood meal: Grilled salmon with sweet potato and Brussels sprouts Performance foods: Beets, bananas, pickle juice, blueberries, fish (salmon), avocado, Brussels sprouts, nuts
INSPIRATIONS The combination of being a competitor and loving to be on two wheels fuels my appetite for racing. I’ve had many mentors and figures inspire me to race, but, at the end of the day, the biggest inspiration always comes from within. I want to get better for myself, I want to succeed just as anyone would, and I want to reach my goals. When training gets hard (which it often does!) I remind myself that it’s supposed to be hard! Cross country mountain biking is an individual sport, and my motivation to succeed has always been my biggest inspiration.
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artist in residence
Pasta maker Linda Miller Nicholson uses vegetable purées and other natural ingredients to create her tinted pasta dough.
Oh, the Pastabilities! Linda Miller Nicholson turns pasta into high art written by Gina Williams | photography by Jim Henkens
“YOU CAUGHT ME in high experiment mode today,” Linda Miller Nicholson said as she made me an espresso in the gleaming kitchen of her home near Snoqualmie Falls. Nicholson, also known as the “Lady Gaga of Pasta” and the “Pasta Ninja,” was a ray of sunshine on an otherwise dark, stormy day, dressed in bright reds and floral prints. She was ready for action, with rounds of crimson and white pasta dough placed on a large wooden work surface. An Instagram sensation (@SaltySeattle) with more than 150,000 followers, Nicholson is known for her highly expressive way with pasta. She created the “Girl with a Noodle Earring” after Johannes Vermeer’s famous work, and made a pasta version of Van Gogh’s “Starry Night.” Katy Perry’s manager asked her to make a pasta portrait of the singer for Perry’s “Bon Appétit” single album cover. Nicholson also contributes to Buzzfeed and the Food Network and teaches pasta-making workshops. She’s appeared on television shows such as “Harry” and “Home & Family.” Her first book, Pasta, Pretty Please, is coming out in October. Although she turned to pasta dough as her medium of choice for high art only several years ago, she first began earning her pasta chops as a kid, making thick noodles with her German grandfather. She also competed on a cooking reality show, “Masterchef,” 36 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER
2018
in 2010 and honed her skills in the kitchens of Italy while living there as an English teacher. Nicholson pulled a handful of crimson dough from the round and began flattening it in her silver pasta machine, handling the dough with easy, flowing movements. “It is mesmerizing, isn’t it?” she said. “During productions, even the camera guys sometimes get caught up in watching the process.” A few minutes later, the project took shape, Nicholson revealing both her artistic talent and her rebellious side. She worked the dough like a dressmaker, carefully pleating it and working deftly with the drape as if it was fine fabric rather than a sticky mixture of flour and eggs. Next, she made little white cones, glancing occasionally at images on her phone to help with styling.
artist in residence Linda Miller Nicholson holds a tray of her pasta creations. She started experimenting with unusual shapes and colors when her son went through a picky food phase.
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Creating striped ravioli is a multi-step process.
artist in residence
“I finally found my medium. I’ve been making pasta my entire life, but nobody said that’s art. Keep doing what you’re doing if you’re passionate about it. What I’m doing now is the culmination of everything that led up to this point.” — Linda Miller Nicholson “Today is the only day I have to do what I want to do,” she said, continuing to pleat and fold the red garments. Busy with appearances, workshops and handling the business side of her work, Nicholson also remains in high demand for commissions. At the top of her “Who I’d most like to have over for dinner and make a pasta face of ” list is Ellen DeGeneres. She said the very idea is intimidating. “I can’t get Ellen wrong!” Next is Christopher Walken. “Wouldn’t he be great?” Last but not least, Yoda. “He won’t be upset if I get it wrong.” “I think I’ll do Ellen first,” she said. Soon, Nicholson’s full vision for the day’s experiment came into view, as she put the pieces together and— voilà! Suddenly, we weren’t in northern Washington anymore, but Gilead, as a group of perfectly formed tiny women in crimson robes and white bonnets ala “Handmaid’s Tale” appeared to march across the flour-dusted counter. All of Nicholson’s work is edible, and later, she would lightly boil the “maids,” pipe a ricotta mixture into the robes and perhaps plate them with a red sauce— another delightful meal with a message. Nicholson said she was told early on she wasn’t artistic, but the desire to create never left her. As a teen, she tried her hand at sewing clothing. “My magnum opus was a pair of patchwork bell-bottom pants that I literally sewed polished brass bells onto the bottoms of,” she said. She cinched them up with a drawstring and wore them to school. The bells made such a ruckus she was sent home.
MAKE YOUR OWN Pasta, Pretty Please: A Vibrant Approach to Creative Handmade Noodles Linda Miller Nicholson’s first book will be published in October. The book, full of recipes for all levels of home cooks, will feature instructions for twenty-five colors of pasta dough, tinted with natural ingredients. The “playful and inviting” book will include recipes, techniques, tips and inspiration for doughs, shapes and sauces—from “Hearts and Stripes Pappardelle” and “Emoji Ravioli” to “Golden Milk Ragu” and “Pepperoni Pizza Filling.” Learn more about Linda and her art, workshops, video tutorials and more at saltyseattle.com.
She first began experimenting with pasta when her son, Bentley Danger, went through a picky food phase. She began making nontraditional pasta shapes and brightly colored dough using natural ingredients like turmeric, harissa and vegetable purées, such as beet and spinach. At that point, her creativity took off. “I finally found my medium,” she said. “I’ve been making pasta my entire life, but nobody said that’s art. Keep doing what you’re doing if you’re passionate about it. What I’m doing now is the culmination of everything that led up to this point.” Nicholson, who never turns away from a pasta pun, good or bad, said that with pasta as her medium, not only are the artistic “pastabilities” endless, but creating with food allows her to accomplish her larger goal of bringing people together, opening authentic conversations and making the world a better and more beautiful place. Much of her work is whimsical and fun—bright rainbow pasta, colorful figures and brilliant geometric designs— inspired by her love of fine art, nature and fashion. But Nicholson doesn’t shy away from the occasional political message or bold statement. And all her work is “more than dough deep.” “It’s more than just a pretty piece of pasta,” she said as she carefully adjusted the bonnet on one of the handmaids. “Not everyone has to appreciate art, but everyone has to eat. It gives me a bridge. I like that what I do has the power to bridge gaps and foster togetherness across political lines.”
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STARTUP 42 WHAT’S GOING UP 44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 46 MY WORKSPACE 48 GAME CHANGER 50
pg. 48 Meet the hops whisperer of Segal Ranch.
startup
The Leftovers
WISErg’s liquid fertilizer is being used throughout North and South America.
WISErg seeks to eliminate food waste written by Sheila G. Miller
TAKE A GROUP of high-tech software experts, add a few scientists and an interest in eliminating food waste. What do you get? WISErg, a company that is taking grocery stores’ leftover food and converting it into highquality organic fertilizer. It started with an idea to measure food waste in local grocery stores. Brian Valentine, WISErg’s CEO and a former Microsoft and Amazon executive, tells it like this: In 2009, Jose Lugo and Larry LaSueur approached Valentine with an idea. The three had all worked at Microsoft together (“We’re software people,” Valentine said) and LaSueur and Lugo had an idea to collect data on food waste. “Can we collect data on what is being thrown away behind grocery stores that we can give back to the grocery store manager?” Valentine asked. “Then that will help them to manage their inventory better. That was the original concept.” “Like most startups, if anybody tells you they had a clue where the idea would take them, they’re lying to you,” Valentine said, laughing. The company has grown from there. WISErg has found a value stream in food waste, and Valentine believes there are other businesses to develop from that. “We definitely want to continue to expand,” he said. “There’s so much 42 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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of this waste out there. The more we can upcycle, as opposed to recycle or throw away, it’s just better.” He points to three prongs of eliminating food waste. The first is upcycling, like WISErg does. The second, which Valentine said we don’t do very well, is diverting waste—whether by sending edible leftovers to food pantries or otherwise diverting it from the landfill.
startup
“If you can make money, great,” he we could make a gallon of liquid said. “But socially we should all be fertilizer. The next step was, ‘How do appalled by how much of this waste you scale that from a manufacturing could be eaten by humans.” standpoint?’” The third prong is reduction—how Those fifteen stores produce to avoid having leftover produce at enough food waste to create grocery stores, for example. 5 million gallons of fertilizer Those three prongs—diversion, each year. reduction and upcycling—done “The problem isn’t acquiring the correctly, result in so little waste that material,” Valentine said. “There are it’s “not even really waste anymore,” 4,000 grocery stores on the West Valentine said. Coast. The challenge as a company To measure the food coming out is getting the product accepted in of the back of the store, the company the market.” developed the Harvester, a selfWISErg’s fertilizer is 100 percent contained unit that takes a large sustainable from a waste resource, volume of food scraps otherwise making it different from most headed for the landfill and turns other fertilizers. Many organic those scraps, including hard stuff fertilizers are fish-based, which isn’t like bones, into a liquid that is used sustainable because of overfishing. for fertilizer. Three generations of Other organic fertilizers are made the machine later, the Harvester is with manure, which raises foodin fifteen locations around Seattle— safety issues. at the back of some Whole Foods, “The first thing that happens The Harvester turns food waste to liquid. PCC Markets and Costcos around when you walk onto a grower’s the region. property is they look at you like During the design process, a the latest snake-oil salesman who professor at the University of Arizona asked the obvious promised the world but couldn’t deliver,” Valentine said. “This question: “What do we do with what comes out of the back is an industry of crazy product promises that couldn’t deliver. of the machine?” It seemed a shame to let such high-nutrient So you have to get through that first.” material go to waste. At first, the company considered turning The agricultural business community can be a little slow the processed food waste into some sort of bio-gas. “That went to adopt new products. It takes trial cycles, and a cycle is a on for a couple years and didn’t really pan out,” Valentine said. growing season. Many farmers have agreed to try the fertilizer Eventually, someone suggested the food waste be converted on small sections of their land as a trial. into liquid, organic fertilizer. “By the second trial they’re typically now starting to believe,” “All of the material in the food waste is super high nutrient,” Valentine said. Though there’s little data, Valentine said he Valentine said. “We had to figure out how to capture the believes WISErg is the largest liquid certified organic fertilizer nutrients, not let it get away.” When food sits in a curbside exporter to Mexico and the second largest on the West Coast. dumpster in the sun, it rots and those nutrients disappear. Today, the company has a plant in Redmond that converts Most of the food that’s thrown away at grocery stores is 4 million gallons of liquid fertilizer a year. The company is taken off the shelves because it’s at or past its sell-by date, not selling fertilizer in Central and South America, the U.S. and because it has gone bad. The Harvester captures the food while Mexico. “We just started shipping product to Costa Rica and it’s still fresh and full of nutrients. Because it’s self-contained, Chile,” he said. there are no odors, no pests, and no leaks into storm drains. As the fertilizer gains in popularity, Valentine said, there are “We solve a bunch of problems for grocery stores,” Valentine stores lined up to install a Harvester. said. Plus, grocery stores pay the company for the material. In the meantime, Valentine said it’s about feeling like you’re The company created a biological process that stabilizes doing something that helps the planet. Valentine has worked the food inside the Harvester to prevent the nutrients from for Amazon and Microsoft—he’s seen innovation before. “But disappearing. Finally, the company developed a process to turn nothing is as satisfying as this,” Valentine said. “My wife asks the stabilized food waste into a liquid that can be turned into me, ‘How was your day today?’ And the joke in our family fertilizer that is 100 percent certified organic. has become, ‘Just saving the world one day at a time!’ It’s a “It took about five years to figure all that stuff out,” Valentine different feeling, being able to do something like that, that said. “Then, finally, we had developed the biology so that might make a difference.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
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what’s going up?
The Spheres, Amazon’s collaborative workspace in Seattle, has plants and water features throughout the building.
Coming Attractions
New reasons to visit Washington cities
Photos: Jordan Stead/Amazon
written by Sheila G. Miller
IF YOU’RE TAKING advantage of the warm weather to head out on a road trip, we’ve got a few recently completed or in-progress attractions for you.
SPOKANE
VANCOUVER
SEATTLE
In Spokane, Riverfront Park is in the midst of redevelopment. The park was the site of the World’s Fair Expo ’74, but hadn’t been updated in more than forty years. In 2014, Spokane passed a $64 million bond to redevelop it. Improvements include a skate ribbon that opened last winter and changes to the building that houses the carrousel, also complete. Construction will continue through late 2020 on the U.S. Pavilion event centers, and through 2019 on a large playground devoted to telling the story of Ice Age floods. Other upgrades to the area are ongoing.
In Vancouver, The Waterfront is 32 acres of south-facing waterfront real estate. The $1.5 billion mixeduse development, which began construction in 2015, will provide new green spaces like public parks, walking and biking trails. In addition, there will be apartments and condominiums, up to 1.25 million square feet of commercial space, Hotel Indigo and The Shops on Waterfront Way.
Finally, in Seattle, Amazon has completed The Spheres, a collaborative workspace with 40,000 plants from around the world, water features, even paludariums, sometimes called garden aquariums. The structure opened at the end of January, and a restaurant from chef Renee Erickson, is expected to open this summer as well. There’s a visitor center called Understory at the base of the building, and the general public can schedule weekend visits to the building by going to seattlespheres.com.
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Ocean Shores MORE THAN A BEACH! SHOP • PLAY • DINE • STAY • FAMILY FUN VISITOCEANSHORESWA.COM
what i’m working on
Washingtonians from around the state are being trained to monitor bumble bee populations.
Mapping Washington’s Bumble Bees Volunteers work to monitor the state’s bumble bee population interview by Nick Engelfried
FOR RICH HATFIELD, senior conservation biologist with the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, the Pacific Northwest Bumble Bee Atlas marks the culmination of two decades of work studying wild pollinators. The project will enlist volunteers to monitor bumble bee populations across the region, gathering data for conservation projects. In early June, Hatfield led a training for volunteers in Wenatchee in partnership with the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Another Washington training will take place west of the Cascades in 2019.
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How did you end up studying pollinators? Between undergrad and grad school I worked with Dr. Claire Kremen, then at the Center for Conservation Biology at Stanford University, comparing insect pollinators on organic versus conventional agricultural lands (Dr. Kremen is now at University of California, Berkeley). Through that project, I realized pollinators and benefits they provide create a strong conservation message. You can attach a dollar value to pollinators due to their clear ecosystem services, an economic piece that was missing from many other conservation projects. That really got me interested in continuing to study bees. What’s the significance of bumble bees? Not everyone realizes honey bees are a non-native species imported from Europe. We have about 3,600 North American native bees, including around fifty bumble bees. However, many native bees are tiny, and in grad school, I realized how hard it is to identify most without doing a whole PhD on them. Bumble bees are a workable group to identify and good ambassadors for native pollinators. They’re also major pollinators of crops like tomatoes, blueberries and cranberries. Eighty-five percent of plants require
what i’m working on
FROM LEFT Rich Hatfield trains volunteers on how to monitor bee populations. There are about 3,000 North American native bees.
“I realized pollinators and benefits they provide create a strong conservation message. You can attach a dollar value to pollinators due to their clear ecosystem services, an economic piece that was missing from many other conservation projects. That really got me interested in continuing to study bees.” — Rich Hatfield, Xerces Society senior conservation biologist pollinators, and it’s not honey bees doing most of that work. Mostly it’s native pollinators. Can you tell me about the Bumble Bee Atlas? In 2014, we started Bumble Bee Watch, an online citizen-science platform where people submit photos of bumble bees they’ve spotted. We’ve had some 25,000 records submitted. The problem is they mostly correspond to population centers where people submitting the photos live, and from a conservation biology standpoint that’s not terribly useful. For the Bumble Bee Atlas we’ve divided Washington, Oregon and Idaho into 50-by-50-kilometer transects. We’re asking volunteers to
adopt a grid cell and sample it at least twice a year using our standardized protocols. The idea is to conduct a more systematic survey. How can people help native pollinators? One great thing about pollinator conservation is you actually can do something about it. If you live in an apartment and put flowers in a pot on the porch, bees will show up. Good bee habitat means flowers blooming spring through fall, bare patches of ground and wood for nesting and overwintering sites, and having flowers be pesticide-free. Native plants are best because that’s what native bees evolved with. Visit the Pollinator Conservation Resource
Center, bringbackthepollinators.org, for more information. What’s next for you and the Bumble Bee Atlas? I’ll be encouraging people to sign up as volunteers, because I can’t do this project without help. It would take me years to collect the data we’ll be gathering. Joining the project is a great way to learn how to become a wildlife watcher anywhere, even in your backyard or neighborhood park. A whole safari is waiting for you out there. I’ve raised my kids this way and it’s been huge for them, realizing they can go in the yard and find insects. If kids can grow up as little entomologists instead of being afraid of bugs, that’s a big deal, in my opinion.
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my workspace
Martin Ramos, ranch manager of thirdgeneration hop farm Segal Ranch, has been working with hops for more than thirty years. Once dubbed the “hop whisperer,” Ramos was trained by USDA hop research scientist Chuck Zimmerman, a renowned innovator in creating new hop varieties. “I don’t think I possess any magical capabilities,” Ramos said. “I wish I did.”
The 470-acre ranch grows ten varieties of aroma hops. “It’s a unique plant,” Ramos said of the perennial bine that grows on 20-foot poles throughout the Yakima Valley. “A lot of people, when they drive by and see all those poles, they wonder what it is.”
My Workspace
Among the Bines
Life on a hop farm at Segal Ranch written and photographed by Catie Joyce-Bulay
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my workspace
Martin also tends two small vegetable gardens on the farm, where he grows several types of hot peppers, including a variety he acquired on a trip to Mexico ten years ago. Every harvest, the brewers Segal Ranch works with are invited to a Mexicanstyle barbecue, with tortillas made fresh on-site and Ramos’s peppers flavoring the dishes, all complemented by the hoppy beers the brewers bring to the party—one of Ramos’s favorite parts of harvest.
With the scent of fresh hops strong in the air during harvest, brewers gather at the ranch for selection, where they do the rub-and-smell test on different varieties harvested at different times to decide which they want to brew with. Ramos won’t make crop predictions at the beginning of the year—“Just when you think you understand this plant, it will surprise you”— but once the crop is harvested and he watches the brewers inhale the earthy aromas, he’s not nervous. “I know the hops are good.”
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
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game changer
Hooked on Sustainability Following a new school of thought with line-caught, sustainable Pacific cod written by Corinne Whiting
Blue North has efficiencies that make it sustainable.
IN THE NORTHWEST, a pair of industrious, forward-thinking brothers continue to make waves in the fishing industry—in all the best ways. Originally from upstate New York, the duo felt the pull of Alaska in the ’70s, when they first dove deep into the world of fishing. They haven’t stopped since. In 2015, they launched the Humane Harvest Initiative, which “seeks to increase the recognition of fish as deserving of the same treatment standards that are already in place for livestock.” Then, in 2016, they put one of the most efficient, safe and sustainable hook-and-line fleets onto the clean waters of the North Pacific. Highlights of this revolutionary craft include modern crew accommodations and amenities, low greenhouse-gas emissions (fuel efficiencies and heat recovery) and processing efficiencies designed to fully utilize resources. “Although the vessel is the most modern long liner in the world, we still catch the cod fish the same way they did 150 years ago—on a hook, one at a time,” founder and vice-president Pat Burns explained. “That’s why this fishery is so sustainable.” Consumers can now enjoy what the Burns describe as “the highest-quality, frozen-at-sea products around.” Thanks to advanced technology, the fishermen use humane practices that “eliminate stress hormones to ensure less pain and fear for the fish at the time of harvest.” The result? According to a blind study conducted by the School of Food Science at 50 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Washington State University, a higher-quality, flakier fish that retains more health benefits than those exposed to traditional harvesting methods. Blue North’s Humane Harvest filets, which are processed within three hours of coming out of the water, are available at Town and Country and Central markets in the Puget Sound area, as well as several Seattle restaurants, like Pike Place Market’s Etta’s and Dahlia Lounge. “For those who are concerned about the ethical treatment of fish, the safety of fishermen and the health of our oceans, Humane Harvest is the gold standard for wild, line-caught Pacific cod,” founder and chairman Michael Burns said. The brothers agree that in order to make wise choices, consumers need to know where their food comes from and how it was raised, gathered or processed. “Get to know your fishermen, ask questions, and demand a high standard for yourself and family,” Mike Burns said. Pat Burns added, “Our job is not done yet. I’m concerned with how America eats, and I want to put every pound of cod fish that we catch onto a plate in the U.S. for all of us to enjoy this healthy, sustainably caught, humanely harvested, wild protein source.” “The Bering Sea fisheries are some of the best managed fisheries in the world,” he said. “We’ve constructed the Blue North with an eye to future. We are in it for the long haul. … The future of the cod fishery is very bright.”
Dream big. Plan ahead. Washington College Savings Plans can help you start saving towards a brighter future.
Explore your options at wastate529.wa.gov
GET and DreamAhead are qualified tuition programs sponsored and distributed by the State of Washington. The Committee on Advanced Tuition Payment and College Savings administers and the Washington Student Achievement Council supports the plans. DreamAhead investment returns are not guaranteed and you could lose money by investing in the plan. If in-state tuition decreases in the future, GET tuition units may lose value.
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LOCAL LOVE WASHINGTON’S FOOD SCENE IS A CELEBRATION OF LOCAL FLAVORS written by Corinne Whiting
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WHEN IT COMES TO SOURCING INGREDIENTS IN WASHINGTON,
GOING LOCAL SEEMS NON-NEGOTIABLE. THANKS TO THE REGION’S RICH TERRAIN, TEMPERATE CLIMATE AND NETWORK OF TALENTED FARMERS, GROWERS AND FISHERMEN, RICHES ABOUND WHETHER WE’RE TALKING HOPS FOR BEER (THE STATE GROWS NEARLY 80 PERCENT OF THE COUNTRY’S SUPPLY) OR SEASONAL FAVORITES FROM CHERRIES AND APPLES TO WALLA WALLA SWEET ONIONS.
Some products, however, fly under the radar. Washington, for example, is the highest blueberryproducing state in the country, having yielded about 120 million pounds in 2016. Washington asparagus, which comes in several varieties and is one of the first products to arrive each spring, supported the local economy in 2017 by bringing in $45 million. Sara Morris, president of The Beecher’s Foundation, launched by creative food company Sugar Mountain (famous for its award-winning Beecher’s Handmade Cheese), said food grown here proves so remarkable for many of the reasons the region is also home to countless entrepreneurs and tech pioneers. “There’s something in the water,” she said. “This region attracts a certain profile, and the rest of us get to benefit from that.” “Washington’s climate is ideal for organic production because there aren’t too many insect pests,” said Susan
Ujcic, co-founder of Helsing Junction Farms (located outside of Olympia) with Anna Salafsky. “We also have a long growing season and summers that usually aren’t too hot.” In the educational yet approachable workshops Beecher’s Foundation hosts for adults and schoolchildren, Morris and her team discuss how food has evolved over time. The way Americans eat today, she noted, has dramatically shifted from how humans ate for centuries, leaving us far removed from “pure, real, true food.” She and her team recently launched a ten-year campaign “to change Puget Sound’s food for good.” “When we buy local or grow our own,” she said, “we are getting that much closer to the food source. … We know what we’re putting in our body and not harming the earth while we’re at it.”
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ABOVE Pike Place Market visitors look at pepper wreaths and garlands.
Matthew Mornick
RESIDENTS AND VISITORS NEED ONLY STEP FOOT INTO BUSTLING PIKE PLACE MARKET TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL FOOD SCENE WITH ALL THEIR SENSES.
SAVORING LOCAL FLAVORS
URBAN FARMING
Residents and visitors need only step foot into bustling Pike Place Market to experience the local food scene with all their senses. The market formed in 1907 when Seattle citizens became outraged at a ten-fold price increase in onions—as a result, farmers started selling their products on a vacant wooden roadway. Today the much-expanded Pike Place remains one of the oldest continuously operating markets in the country. Outside the city, foodies enjoy meandering along the Olympic Culinary Loop, a tasty trail showing off the Olympic Peninsula’s diverse microclimates, coastal proximity and Native American heritage. In Wenatchee, the Stemilt Growers Retail Store lets visitors sample the bounty of one of the state’s premier apple, pear and cherry growers. In every season, events honor the state’s most celebrated products, ranging from the Hama Hama OysterRama, held each spring in Lilliwaup, to the Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival, held each fall in Port Angeles.
In downtown Seattle, restaurants like Urbane pride themselves on using local ingredients and purveyors. Since opening its doors, Urbane has counted Tonnemaker Farms of Royal City, just east of Ellensburg, as part of the family. It’s clear that chef Brian Pusztai couldn’t agree more with the eatery’s philosophy. “For me,” he said, “I’ve always felt sourcing locally is the right thing to do. You’re working with the flavors of the Pacific Northwest that haven’t had to travel far, meaning they are the freshest they can possibly be. I also take interest in knowing exactly where my food is coming from.” Pusztai loves working with local, fresh seafood, especially Penn Cove mussels and the Taylor Shellfish shigoku oysters. “My family and I often make the visit to Taylor Shellfish’s Chuckanut farm in Samish Bay, right outside of Bellingham,” he said. “I also really enjoy working with geoduck because it is such a unique ingredient to the Pacific Northwest that tastes delicious. Oh, and we can’t forget
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DIGGING DEEP WITH LOCAL FARMERS ANNA SALAFSKY & SUSAN UJCIC
HELSING JUNCTION FARMS
Anna Salafsky and Susan Ujcic, who began Helsing Junction Farms in 1992, remain deeply committed to organic farming and their community. Located 20 miles south of Olympia in Rochester, on the Chehalis River, the farm sells most of its produce through a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program, but it also hosts weddings, an annual music festival and farm-to-table experiences in a lovely event space. The farm grows more than 150 varieties of organic vegetables, fruit, flowers and herbs. “We’ve been farming together for over twenty-five years,” Ujcic said, “so we bring a lot of experience to the table, but we also love trying new things. We focus on the health of our soil, so everything we grow tastes and looks its best.” Both have strong design backgrounds and a deep love of food—once they began farming, they were hooked. “Working with the earth and feeding people is deeply rewarding; we really enjoy sharing the farm with our community,” Ujcic said. FROM TOP Planting time at Helsing Junction Farms. Tonnemaker Farms works with Urbane in Seattle. Mussels are a Washington specialty.
TODD VAN MERSBERGEN
HMV BERRIES
Todd Van Mersbergen’s family farms 200 acres north of Lynden, about 1 mile south of the Canadian border, where they’ve been working since the early 1900s. “You could say I was born to farm,” Van Mersbergen, who has been directly involved for the last twenty years, said. “ I am the fourth generation to farm here in Lynden, and many generations before that were involved in agriculture in Holland. We started as dairy farmers and diversified into raspberries in 1995 and into blueberries in 2006. It’s great to be your own boss and really see the rewards from your planning and labor during harvest.” Today the Van Mersbergens farm about 100 acres each of red raspberries and blueberries. “The cool maritime climate and long
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
days during the growing season make Whatcom County an ideal place to grow blueberries,” Van Mersbergen said. “Couple that with rich, well-drained soil, and it’s no wonder we can get the most tonnage per acre and highest sugar content in our berries.” “The best part about farming is taking my wife and kids out to the field and driving down the rows, being able to be outside with them and watch the plants go through their phases,” he said. “The farm is a great place to learn about life. That’s the other part I love—the seasonal nature of farming, and getting to work with the environment and the weather. No two days are ever the same.”
GARY LARSEN
LARSEN FARMS, INC. Located just north of Pasco, this family farm has fantastic views of Juniper Dunes. The Larsens have been here since the early ’60s, when they broke the ground out of sagebrush and bunchgrass, and the only roads were two-track trails used by sheepherders. Larsen’s family is one of the seventy remaining asparagus farmers in the state. “In ’85 when we started with asparagus, there were 32,000 acres of it in the state, and now there are 4,400 acres,” he said. He credits an abundance of good quality water, rich soils and changing seasons for making Washington “the premier state for growing asparagus.” He praises the region’s rich volcanic soils and the fact that asparagus here go dormant in the winter, allowing nutrients and carbohydrates to move to the crowns (roots) for sweet crops the following year. The most rewarding part of his job? “Seeing the success and breaking some of the traditional ways of growing asparagus,” Larsen said. “Also, seeing people come back year after year to buy our crops and saying, ‘We have tried other asparagus and none compare to the sweetness and quality of yours.’”
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GEODUCK CLAM CHOWDER
SEATTLE / AQUA BY EL GAUCHO
cooking with washington's best foods
Wesley Hood
YIELDS 12 BOWLS
WILD RICE & APPLE SALAD WITH BEECHER’S FLAGSHIP RESERVE & MAMA LIL’S PEPPERS
SEATTLE / BEECHER’S HANDMADE CHEESE
Kurt Beecher Dammeier
SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE 1 cup uncooked wild rice 3½ cups water 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided ½ bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped ½ bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
1 bunch green onions, sliced ½ cup roughly chopped Mama Lil’s Peppers, plus 2 teaspoons of oil 1 cup coarsely grated Beecher’s Flagship Reserve cheese 1 medium apple, cored and chopped
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar ¼ cup expeller-pressed safflower oil ¼ teaspoon granulated garlic ⅛ teaspoon black pepper Pinch of chili powder
In a fine-mesh strainer, rinse rice under cold water. Combine rice, ½ teaspoon salt and the water in a medium or large saucepan. Over medium-high heat, bring rice to a boil. Stir, reduce heat to low, cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for 30 to 50 minutes. The grains will burst and show a white interior when done. Fluff the rice with a fork and transfer to a container. Store in the refrigerator until completely cool. In a large mixing bowl, combine rice with remaining ingredients. Using a large spoon, mix until well combined. Add seasoning as needed.
FENNEL AND APPLE SALAD
SEATTLE / BEECHER’S FOUNDATION SERVES 4 FOR SALAD 1 box pepper greens ½ bunch lacinato kale, chiffonade 1/4 bulb fennel, shaved Fennel stems, thinly sliced Fennel fronds, roughly chopped
½ apple, matchstick ½ bunch parsley, roughly chopped ½ bunch tarragon, finely chopped
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil (ideally first cold pressing or cold pressed) ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard Salt and pepper, to taste
½ cup bonito broth, or dashi 4 ounces geoduck, belly diced, syphon puréed 4 ounces razor clam meat, belly diced, syphon puréed 3/5 pound manila clams, juice reserved, meat cooled and chopped, shells discarded (reserve a few steamed clams for garnish) 3 ounces bacon 3 ounces onion 1½ ounces celery 5 ounces potato
1 bay leaf 1 sprig fresh thyme ½ tablespoon garlic 1¼ ounce rice flour 2 ounces butter ¼ teaspoon black pepper 4½ cups heavy cream 1 ounce butter 1 tablespoon chopped parsley FOR BEURRE MANIER 1¼ ounce rice flour 2 ounces butter FOR FINISH 4½ cups heavy cream 1 ounce butter 1 tablespoon chopped
Cross-slice the bacon thinly and add it to a thickbottomed pot. Cook on medium-high heat until browned, scraping up and stirring periodically with a wooden spoon. Meanwhile, dice onion and celery to ¼-inch pieces. Tie up bay leaf and thyme in a sachet, then quarter and thinly slice the potatoes into ¼-inch pieces. Once bacon is browned, add celery and onion and cook until vegetables are translucent. Add garlic and cook for another minute. Add bonito broth and all of the clam juice to deglaze, scraping up the fond with the wooden spoon. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add sachet of bay leaves and thyme to pot. Add black pepper, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the clam purée, and potatoes and simmer for 7 minutes. When potatoes are almost tender it’s time to thicken it with the beurre manier. Remove herbs and discard.
Start with pepper greens and add each new vegetable as you chop it.
FOR BEURRE MANIER Mash together rice flour and warm butter by hand until a smooth paste is formed. If it is not smooth, you will have lumps of flour in your chowder. Remove 1 quart of the simmering liquid from the chowder and add it to the bowl with the butter and flour mixture. Whisk until smooth. Add this mixture back into the chowder pot. Increase the heat and stir constantly until thickened, approximately 185 degrees. Cool immediately.
FOR DRESSING Whisk all ingredients except oil until combined. Slowly whisk in oil to emulsify. If you want to take a foolproof shortcut, you can use an immersion blender to emulsify any dressing.
FOR FINISH Shortly before serving, add cream to above base, then add reserved belly meat. Combine butter, parsley and clams, then add steamed clams on top as garnish.
FOR DRESSING ¼ cup rice wine vinegar ½ teaspoon honey
MORE ONLINE: Find a recipe for Ash-roasted Walla Walla Onions with Basil Ricotta, Cherries, Prosciutto & Mustard Greens at 1889mag.com/locallove
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Travis Gillett Travis Gillett
fresh foraged mushrooms. There are so many varieties that are right in our backyard, like morel and yellow chanterelles.” Not far from downtown, culinary aficionados enjoy a ten-block stroll in the PikePine neighborhood between Melrose Market and Chophouse Row, two buzzing hubs for talented local growers, makers and collectors. Highlights among the markets’ many vendors include Rain Shadow’s famous bacon, cuts of beef, charcuterie and terrines, not to mention its selection of in-season produce (think blueberries, peaches and apples from the Yakima Valley). Visitors can also dine on the rooftop of Terra Plata, surrounded by organic gardens, or enjoy a pairing of fresh crab and pinot gris at Taylor Shellfish. “Not only do we celebrate local bounty— everything from hand-foraged mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns at Sitka & Spruce (the menu changes daily to reflect only whatever is in season) to the abundance of crab and shellfish, often caught that day, straight from Taylor Shellfish Farms in the waters of Puget Sound,” Melrose Market and Chophouse Row owner Liz Dunn said. “But in some cases, over its more than ten years, Melrose Market has made certain local foods famous.” Among these items—the Plane Bread and hand-churned
butter that have anchored Sitka’s menu from the get-go and the handcrafted cheeses from Kurt Timmermeister’s cows on Vashon Island and Richard and Louise Yarmuth’s goats in Darlington.
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Chophouse Row and Melrose Market offer local food to visitors. Rain Shadow meats are among the markets’ delicacies.
GOOD TO THE LAST BITE When it comes to the benefits of living here, there seems to be a consensus—amazing food that’s inextricably linked to the landscape and culture. “Being so close to so many amazing products in the Pacific Northwest, from the produce to the beer and wine,” Pusztai said of why he lives here. “The summers are amazing, and I love to get out in the sun while boating, crabbing or swimming in Lake Washington. “ Plus, customers are looking for a place they can call home, and Washington’s farmers, ranchers, chefs and others are providing that. “There’s more latent demand than ever for locally sourced, hand-picked product. And I mean handpicked in both senses—sourced directly from the fields, forests and waters of the Northwest, and also hand-curated by our vendors,” Dunn said. “Here’s why it matters to customers: In an increasingly digitized, onlinedriven world, people are hungrier than ever for a sense of place.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
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Fermenting Wilderness
EXPLORING THE WILD BEERS OF WASHINGTON
written by Mike Allen photography by James Harnois
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An E9 Brewery employee pulls a sample for barrel blending for future fruit beers.
T
TEN YEARS AGO, SHANE JOHNS WAS GIVING away wild beer for free. The biology major turned brewer was working at Tacoma’s Engine House No. 9 with head brewer Doug Tiede. The pair captured wild yeast from a friend’s Tacoma-area backyard, and used the resulting culture to brew batches of funky, tart ales in the Flanders tradition, aging them in 5-gallon oak barrels. There was so little interest at the time that the wild beers never made it to the tap list. Instead, the pair bottled them up and drank them or gave them to friends. But Johns kept at it, harvesting another yeast strain from inside the brewery and growing that into another house culture. When Tiede left the company in 2009 and new ownership took over, Johns presented them his wild brews and was rebuffed. So he plugged away at the brewery’s catalog of conventionally fermented beers until X Group Restaurants, Tacoma-based restaurateurs, took over Engine House No. 9 in 2011 and rebranded the brewery as E9. “They were more wine guys,” Johns said of X Group. “I was able to present them with five beers that were completely finished.” The persistence paid off, and the time was finally right. “They said, ‘If this is 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59
what you want to do, then let’s do it,’” Johns said. Now they have 100 oak barrels aging all the time, and plan to bring in 150 more. There’s a microscopic wilderness all around us, floating on air currents, teeming on fruit and flowers, leaves and even bark. Apart from the visible “bloom” of yeast on grapes and blueberries, it’s a wilderness most of us will never experience in any meaningful detail. But in wild fermentations, we can taste it. Each strain of yeast or bacteria, even of the same species, produces its own byproducts during fermentation. Yeast from Yakima apples will lend a different background flavor than that of Cascades rose hips. Microbes harvested from the air just outside of Tacoma lend peach notes to E9 brews, while those from inside the brewery are more cherry pie. Johns was among the first of a cadre of Washington brewers to go beyond the catalogs of the yeast laboratory and harvest distinctly Northwestern microbes from which to craft distinctively Northwestern beers. While American wild brewers took their first cues from the traditional brewers of Belgium, northern France and Germany, who have long relied on ambient yeast to ferment their tart, funky and refreshing beers, it’s far from where they stopped. One purist definition of “wild beer” is “spontaneously fermented.” This means the wort is cooled slowly in an open environment, in a wide, open metal tray called a “coolship,” an anglicization of the Flemish koelschip. As it cools, the hope is that airborne yeast and bacteria collect on the surface and make themselves at home in the nutrient-rich environment. This method produces beers that are definitely wild. But without the decades- or centuries-old breweries and equipment of Europe— which are already crawling with the “right” (and arguably somewhat domesticated) microbes—it’s also dicey. “Wild” here involves a few different processes, from coolship inoculation, to wild harvesting, to hybrid inoculations. 60 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The exterior of the historic Engine House No. 9. The bottle-labeling machine at E9 Brewery. E9 head brewer Shane Johns.
T
he Northwest has long had the right stuff for crafting fermented beverages.
Even the weather helps contribute to successful fermentations, which is especially important for the long cooling and extended aging often required for wild brews. All these factors brought Ron Extract and Amber Watts from Austin, Texas, to Burlington, Washington. “When we started thinking about places, we thought about where everything exists for making beer,” Watts said. In addition to the “very unique, beautiful malt,” hops, and fruit, the Skagit Valley climate is “perfect for minimal temperature intervention for fermentation,” she said. Watts and Extract became well-known for expanding the milieu of artisan beer at Austin’s renowned Jester King brewery. Progressing from Jester King’s tradition of incorporating plenty of fruit and herbs into the mix, their fledgling Garden Path Fermentation will produce not only beer, but mead, fruit wine and cider—a veritable universe of alcoholic fermentation. Also, unlike most wild brews, Garden Path’s beers won’t necessarily be sour. Most of them will be what might be described as “clean drinking.” “We’re actually exploring the softer side of fermentation,” Extract said. “If people come up to us at a festival and expect a beer that’s going to dissolve the enamel off their teeth, they’re not going to find that.” There’s a misconception that “wild” is synonymous with “sour,” and indeed the guezes and lambics of Flanders are usually quite sour, so the terms are sometimes used interchangeably. But a brew can be quickly soured with fruit juice, or by adding commercial preparations of lactic
Yeast is transferred to a foudre for fermentation at Garden Path Fermentation in Burlington.
acid-producing bacteria. Conversely, beer brewed with wild microbes needn’t necessarily be sour. Different microorganisms prefer different environments, Garden Path’s head brewer Jason Hansen explained. By providing the right environment for the organisms the brewer wants to encourage, while discouraging others, he can achieve a desired result with a mixed bag of bugs. For example, Hansen said, “If we want to select for saccharomyces (the cleanfermenting genus of domesticated yeast), we might use more hops. If we want more brettanomyces (the wild yeast genus that produces funky aromas and tartness), we’ll use less.” Garden Path is creating coolshipinoculated beers, but they’ll also ferment with yeasts harvested from fruit, flowers and the air around the Skagit Valley. By inoculating small batches of wort, they can grow wild yeasts and bacteria up into cultures, sometimes called “yeast wrangling.” The rest is in the aging and blending of beers from different barrels—what Extract refers to as a “curating or editing process.” That curating process means some brews will never make it to the public, since they may never be “presentable.” It also means that brewing wild can be spontaneous in more than one way— the brewer regularly tastes and reacts to the state of the brew, rather than working on a specific and predictable timetable. For this reason, it’s hard to say precisely what will be on offer when the first beers come out of production, hopefully this fall. The other obstacle is that wild takes a while—up to three years in the case of some spontaneously fermented, barrelaged beers. While saccharomyces works quickly to digest sugar into alcohol, other microbes work slowly, and the beer takes time to “mature,” sometimes going through unpalatable stages to emerge as something more glorious. Meanwhile, brewers who haven’t been toiling away in an established brewery have to sell more quickly fermented beers, or find ways to shorten the timelines. 62 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Garden Path Fermentation co-founders Ron Extract and Amber Watts. Extract harvests yeast from flowers. Yeast capture and fermentation experiments at Garden Path. Mead ferments in a barrel at the brewery.
Dwinell Country Ales
O
pen for less than a year, Dwinell
Country Ales in Goldendale is pouring a lineup of quenching, slightly tart and funky brews, perfect for drinking under Goldendale’s famously clear desert skies. Cofounder and brewer Justin Leigh said Goldendale, an agricultural community of fewer than 3,500 residents, makes more sense for a country brewery than “under the train tracks,” in say, Chicago. Much of what’s now on tap has been fermented using the “wild” inoculants now offered in the catalogs of most major yeast labs, with a steady trickle of brews incorporating local fruits and their yeasts. Leigh takes an experimental approach to wild fermentation, finding ways to merge laboratory sophistication with hand-harvested yeasts from the countryside. For example, he and cofounder-wife Jocelyn Dwinell Leigh picked Yakima Valley apples, spontaneously fermented them into cider, and had the yeast analyzed and propagated by Gresham, Oregon’s Imperial Yeast. He’s incorporating these local wild yeasts and bacteria into shorter fermentations, adding complexity and soul to clean-drinking and accessible ales. In the brewery behind the airy, sunny taproom, an old dairy tank—his makeshift coolship—sits in the middle of the room as a wall of oak barrels sits aging various spontaneous and handharvested wild ales. These are the longterm projects, which will eventually be blended with one another or with local fruits and re-fermented. The beers on tap already taste like the place where they’re made and served, and with time spent living here, taking on the microscopic wilderness all around, they’ll become part of the landscape. 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63
FLOWER POWER
photography by Katheryn Moran Among Washington’s bounty, flowers may sometimes be forgotten. Not so at Triple Wren Farms just north of Bellingham. Owners Steve and Sarah Pabody truly fell into flower farming after a friend asked them to look after his apple orchard. Today, they run a small cut-flower farm and florist and grow all kinds of vibrant, interesting flowers.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Owners Steve and Sarah Pabody stand with their kids—Chloe Wren, 7, and Trey, 11—who also help out around the farm. First-year field crew member Caroline Arnhart trims larkspur. Arnhart checks on sweet peas in the Triple Wren greenhouse. Snapdragons are just one of the various flora grown at the farm. Triple Wren also offers seasonal u-pick blueberries and a pumpkin patch. In addition to growing flowers, the Pabodys do arrangements and consultations for weddings, offer an internship program and hold workshops to help teach and support other farmer-florists like themselves.
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FAR LEFT A field crew member trims sweet peas at Triple Wren Farms. TOP RIGHT Once trimmed, flowers are arranged into buckets. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT Triple Wren peonies. Sarah Pabody designs a custom bouquet. The finished arrangement.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 ADVENTURE 74 LODGING 78 TRIP PLANNER 80 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84
pg. 74 At Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast & Barn, get up close and personal with the horses.
In Eastern Washington,
Pullman is the place to be Ken Carper, kencarperphotos.com
Ask for more
Pullman Chamber and Visitor Center pullmanchamber.com 800-365-6948
travel spotlight
Travel Spotlight
On-Campus Creamery Washington State University’s ice cream shop and cheesemaking facility is a foodie’s dream written by Sheila G. Miller
WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY has a delicious secret—OK, maybe it’s not much of a secret, but it’s definitely delicious. Tucked away on campus is the Food Quality Building, which houses the WSU Creamery and its partner ice cream store, Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe. The ice cream shop opened in 1948 and serves more than a dozen flavors, including specialties like Apple Cup Crisp and Cougar Tracks. In addition to ice cream, students and faculty at the working creamery make Cougar Cheese, flavorful wheels that come in a can. The go-to is a white cheddar called Cougar Gold, but there are eight flavors for sale, ranging from smoky cheddar to hot pepper. The cheesemakers also create limited releases each year. The milk for the dairy creations come from the university’s own dairy farm. A group of students, the Cooperative University Dairy Students (CUDS, get it?), raise and manage the dairy cows. The Marc P. Bates Observation Room is open from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekdays. Visitors are likely to see students and faculty making Ferdinand’s ice cream and Cougar Cheese. The observation room also has videos to show the cheese and ice cream-making process at the WSU Creamery, just in case no one is working. Don’t want to leave it to chance? Call ahead to find the production schedule. If you have a group of twelve or more, you can reserve the room for a specific day and time, then enjoy a hosted visit, cheese curd samples and discounted ice cream.
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adventure
Adventure
Washington’s Fruit Basket Explore and taste wine by horse or by hayride written by Lauren Kramer
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adventure
Cherry Wood BB&B offers wine tasting by horseback.
ON A RECENT EVENING in Zillah, a small town 20 miles southeast of Yakima, I sat outside absorbing the quiet serenity of a valley bathed in soft light. Before me orchards filled with neat rows of cherry, apple and peach trees stretched for miles, their lush fruit ripening as one hot day rolled into the next. Mount Adams and Mount Rainier were still heavily snowcapped, their peaks like ghosts in the far-off distance. Behind me, the door of my teepee flapped in the breeze, revealing a king bed decked in white linens, a sanctuary for the night and a place where I would wake to the sounds of horses grazing in the early morning. The Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast & Barn, run by Pepper Fewel on her family’s working fruit farm, was my home for the night. A woman with a deep love of horses, Fewel runs the B, B & B to finance the care of twenty-six horses she’s rescued from the feedlot. She brings them to Cherry Wood to live out their final years grazing peacefully in her meadows and escorting guests on horseback wine-tasting tours through the orchards. Under her stewardship they receive love from both Fewel and her daughter, Tiffany, a Feldenkrais practitioner whose healing touch reduces both equestrian and human pain. On my first visit to Cherry Wood several years back, I ventured out on a horseback ride with Tiffany, stopping to admire the fruit hanging heavily from the tree boughs in the heat of summer. This time, I board Fewel’s alternative mode of transportation, a “cowboy limo” composed of a Jeep pulling a hay-filled wagon. Guests sit on cow hides in the wagon as they’re pulled through the orchards, stopping to sample wine at a handful of Zillah’s many wineries. Fewel launched the cowboy limo after a group of guests from the East Coast found themselves physically unable to get astride the horses. “They so wanted to tour through the orchards,” she recalled. “I had to find another way for them to get there. I tell my guests they’re welcome to board the limo—as long as they can stay on the wagon!” Staying on the wagon can be tougher than it sounds when you’re tasting wine. We drove slowly through the orchards, sampling cherries from trees whose fruit is just weeks away from being picked. Over the course of three hours we visited four wineries for tastings, and while all produced different wines, the experiences had one thing in
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adventure
BEST BETS WHERE TO EAT: Don’t miss the incredible pizzas at Hoptown Wood Fired Pizza (hoptownpizza.com; 2560 Donald Wapato Rd., Donald). Provisions Restaurant & Market (provisionsyakima. com; 2710 Terrace Heights Dr. Yakima) is a locavore’s haven with healthy comfort fare served in a classy setting. WHERE TO SLEEP: Cherry Wood Bed, Breakfast & Barn delivers a soft adventure with no sacrifice to comfort, luxury or fine breakfast foods. Rates start at $185 per person per night. (cherrywoodbbandb.com)
Lauren Kramer
WHAT TO DO: You’ll never look at fruit the same way once you’ve toured the orchards where it’s grown and seen it ripening on the tree. Take a horseback tour of the vineyards or hop on the cowboy limo if riding is not your forte. Both deliver a mellow, enjoyable, safe tour of the wineries. For reservations visit cherrywoodbbandb.com.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP For a horse-free adventure, try the Cowboy Limo. Cherry Wood has rescue horses. Two Mountain Winery is one of the stops on the tour.
common—each visit was filled with a personal touch. We met owners and winemakers eager to chat and share their stories, describing how their winery came to be and what it means to them. At Two Mountain Winery, Patrick and Matthew Rawn toil on farmland first planted by their grandfather in 1951. “With five generations of Yakima Valley farming pulsing through our veins, we are predisposed to have dirty fingernails and an inherent love of the land,” Patrick said. “We live, breathe and drink our work.” Today one brother grows grapes on 26 acres of vineyards while the other makes estate wine sold across nineteen states. Back on the limo, we rode the dusty back roads to Cultura, a winery owned and operated by Fewel’s son and daughterin-law, Tad and Sarah. The couple purchased their first fruit in 2005 and replanted a section of family farmland with zinfandel and cabernet franc before opening the tasting room in 2008. “We’re still learning,” he said. 76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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At Dineen Family Vineyards, we stopped to admire immaculately groomed gardens and the rows of healthy vineyards outside the tasting room. “We make just 600 cases of wine a year, so we’re mostly grape sellers,” spokesman David Rodriguez said as he walked us through the vineyards. One of the interesting details at the vineyard is the falconer it has hired, whose raptors control the populations of birds and sage rats that feed on the grapes. It’s also a sacred place for community gatherings. Saturdays in summer, local chef Chris Guerra helms the outdoor pizza oven steps from the Dineen tasting room, and valley locals flock to the vineyard for picnics on the lush lawns. That sense of warmth, family connection and close-knit community is a common thread wherever we ventured in the Yakima Valley. Visitors come to this arid corner, the veritable fruit basket of Washington, to relish the great wines, but leave touched by the stories, the lineage and the warm heart that beats a steady welcome.
Welcome to the Beautiful Olympic Coast!
Winner: “Best Place For Peace & Quiet”
Frommer’s declares the most spectacular setting anywhere on the Washington Coast . at historic Ocean Crest Resort
Award Winning Restaurant & Bar With Sweeping Ocean Views New Gift Shop Featuring Local Arts & Crafts Indoor Pool & Spa Direct Beach Access Spectacular Ocean Views Cozy Fireplace Rooms Family Friendly Pet Friendly No Cleaning Fees
OCEAN CREST RESORT • 360-276-4465 4651 SR 109 Moclips, WA 98562 OceanCrestResort • info@OceanCrestResort.com
WOODENBOAT.ORG photo by Mitchel Osborne
BEAUTIFUL BOATS | DEMOS | LOCAL FOOD | GREAT MUSIC ON-THE-WATER FUN | SPEAKERS | KIDSʼ ACTIVITIES
ACCOMMODATIONS
Photos: Mayflower Park Hotel
The 160 guest rooms come in a variety of options, from a classic guest room featuring signature extra-deep bathtubs, original 1927 tiled bathroom floors and elegant Queen Anne-style furniture, to well-appointed suites for those who might be celebrating, need room for a private business meeting, or just want a panoramic view.
DINING
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The lobby features Queen Anne-style furniture. Rooms have been refurbished. Oliver’s is the perfect spot for a cocktail.
Mayflower Park Hotel written by Cara Strickland THE YEAR 2017 marked ninety years of continuous operation for this downtown Seattle gem. Though the hotel has been refurbished over the years, you’ll still feel like you’re stepping into the past, and the luxurious past at that. Through the doors, you’ll begin to experience an oasis of calm right in the heart of the city. 405 OLIVE WAY SEATTLE mayflowerpark.com
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If you’re staying on a Wednesday, be sure to catch the complimentary wine reception starting at 4:30 p.m. Pop into Oliver’s Lounge for light bites, lunch and cocktails seven days a week from 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m., with complimentary appetizers served during happy hour, 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. every day but Sunday. Be sure to ask about the history of the large windows—a response to new laws in the 1970s that allowed bars to operate in public view, rather than closed off from natural light and passersby. Those windows, along with their cocktails, made Oliver’s a landmark in the city. For breakfast and dinner, check out Andaluca, serving Northwest food inspired by the flavors of the Mediterranean. Don’t want to leave your robe? Room service is available twentyfour hours a day.
EVENTS
There’s nothing like a historic backdrop for a special occasion, and the Mayflower Park delivers on one-of-a-kind wedding photos in a central location. Make your next meeting a little more aesthetically pleasing with meeting spaces for a variety of group sizes.
trip planner
Icicle TV
Leavenworth is the Washington version of Bavaria.
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trip planner
Welcome to Leavenworth Washington’s quirky Bavarian mountain town written by Corinne Whiting
CRAVING A EUROPEAN FIX (with a twist) in the Pacific Northwest? Leave your passport at home and journey to Leavenworth, where Washington’s version of Bavaria bustles with quirky charm in a stunning mountain setting. From Seattle, travel two and a half hours east over the pass to this popular destination—one whose draws extend far beyond bratwursts and beer. Outdoor enthusiasts flock to this region for the endless recreation options that range from fishing and rafting on the Wenatchee River that flows through town, to mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing and other adrenaline-fueled pastimes. Lori Vandenbrink, director of sales and marketing at Sleeping Lady Resort, has lived here with her family for fourteen years. “I love most everything about Leavenworth, but if I had to narrow it to a couple of things it would be the community, being surrounded by mountains and the access to recreation,” she said. She marvels at the lengths residents will go to attain their desired lifestyle here— working multiple jobs, sometimes below their ability level, or commuting to Seattle a couple days a week, solely to call this beautiful place home. Let it be known—this carefully planned tourist destination, tucked at the base of Washington’s north central Cascade Mountains, has not always boasted Bavarian-alpine architecture or annual Maifest and Oktoberfest celebrations. Initially, native Yakama, Chinook and Wenatchi tribes lived here, enjoying the beauty and bounty of the land as they hunted for deer and elk and fished for salmon in Icicle Creek. In 1890, however, Icicle Flats was born as settlers descended upon the area in search of promised gold, timber and furs. Near the turn of the century, the arrival of a rail line led to booming business for the logging and sawmill industries. When the railroad rerouted and left the region, though, Leavenworth nearly became a ghost town, teetering on the brink of extinction. To lure visitors back in the early 1960s, town leaders gave the town a Bavarian facelift.
“I know it’s probably hard to believe, but after you live here for a while, the Bavarian architecture fades into the backdrop of the surrounding mountains and it looks like it’s always been there,” Vandenbrink said. “Many locals enjoy and partake in the theme, painting their home or business with murals, dressing in Trachten for work or festivals and participating in traditional customs such as Edelweiss Tanzgruppe, the local Bavarian folk dance group.”
Day SLEEPING LADY • ART WALK • CHIHULY Crank up the radio and climb into the mountains. If you’re driving over Stevens Pass, shortly after you crest the summit, be on the lookout for a display of color on the north side of Highway 2 between Lichtenburg and Smithbrook. Once arriving in Leavenworth, enjoy dinner at Watershed Café, where the menu features Hama Hama oysters, or Mana, a cozy yellow house in which diners enjoy a “three-hour, eight-course journey through the senses.” Afterward, savor a good night of sleep at Sleeping Lady (or up the Icicle, if a Thermarest is more your style). Located at the base of the Icicle canyon and on the peaceful banks of Icicle Creek, Sleeping Lady’s dreamy mountain resort features AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
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Icicle TV
Dzhan Wiley
Dzhan Wiley
trip planner
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Hiking abounds near Icicle Creek. The Bavarian theme pervades at Icicle Brewing. Get your fix of beers and brats at München Haus.
Kingfisher Restaurant & Wine Bar, a renowned performance center and a self-guided art walk, showing off the magnificent permanent installation by legendary glass artist Dale Chihuly. Long known for its sustainable and ecologically minded practices, this Certified B corporation resort, also offers enticing amenities like an on-site spa and heated pool. Its mission which incorporates nature, art, recreation and healthful dining is so special,” Vandenbrink said. Harriet Bullitt, a multitalented entrepreneur and longtime supporter of the arts and environmental conservation in the Pacific Northwest, started the Sleeping Lady. “I want people to leave here and feel as though they can change their corner of the world,” she once said.
Day FAT BIKES • BREWS • BRATS Those staying at Sleeping Lady start the morning with a vibrant, seasonal breakfast spread included in their package. Otherwise, mosey into town for espresso with a view at Argonaut—try the Namaste Latte with turmeric and honey accompanied by the tiny café’s granola bars or seasonal toasts. Afterward, locals suggest hiking up Icicle Ridge or out Red Bridge, the two main town trails, or hitting the Stuart or Colchuck trails. Other options include arranging a river 82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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adventure with Osprey Rafting or taking a fat bike onto the Leavenworth Winter Sports Club trails. After getting out into nature, relish an après beverage and snack at Blewett Brewing, Boudreaux Cellars, 37 Cellars, Blue Spirits Distilling or Icicle Brewing Company. At Icicle, a friendly twenty-five-barrel brewhouse, waitstaff serve giant pretzels dipped in Beecher’s cheese and colorful salads topped with manchego, Applegate turkey and Chukar cherries. The venue draws loyal fans thanks to a bustling scene, live music sessions and seasonally rotated beers made with Icicle Creek water, which flows into the Wenatchee River less than a mile from the venue. Get a sampler to try an array of brews ranging from lagers to porters and IPAs. If you still have steam for an afternoon adventure, consider mountain biking up at Ski Hill, riding the new Up Trail and then down either Fruend or Rosy Boa. On scorching days, cool off with a dip in the Wenatchee River. “The best thing about Leavenworth is the incredible mountain setting and endless recreational opportunities at its doorstep,” Vandenbrink said. For a casual dinner, order a brat at festive München Haus, or change things up entirely with a Mexican feast at South, where grilled street corn, sweet potato enchiladas, steak tacos and “mangorita” cocktails prove a well-deserved reward after an active day. Sleeping Lady guests take advantage of dinner at Kingfisher Restaurant, included in their package—here, chefs create gourmet meals from the freshest local ingredients, many from the resort’s own 2-acre organic garden.
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
LEAVENWORTH, WASHINGTON
trip planner
EAT Mana manamountain.com Watershed Café yodelinrestaurantgroup.com Kingfisher Restaurant & Wine Bar sleepinglady.com/kingfisherrestaurant-wine-bar.php South southrestaurants.com
STAY Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort sleepinglady.com LOGE logecamps.com/leavenworth-wa Posthotel posthotelleavenworth.com
PLAY Leavenworth Community Farmers Market leavenworthfarmersmarket.org Oktoberfest runs on the weekends in October, and that includes parades.
Icicle Brewing Company iciclebrewing.com/home
Day
Blewett Brewing Company blewettbrew.com
OKTOBERFEST • SHOPPING • COFFEE
Oktoberfest leavenworthoktoberfest.com
If you happen to be in town during Oktoberfest (October 5-6, 12-13, and 1920), head to the gathering’s four venues to eat, drink and be merry. A Keg Tapping Ceremony led by the town’s mayor happens at 1 p.m. on Saturdays, and throughout the fest, enjoy live tunes by Musikkapelle Leavenworth and other groups from the U.S., Canada and Germany. (Children under 12 enter for free, as do military members with I.D. Minors, allowed until 9 p.m., will enjoy the designated Kinderplatz area.) Vandenbrink offered some insider tips for negotiating Oktoberfest crowds, like walking or taking a shuttle from one’s hotel. (Sleeping Lady offers a complimentary shuttle for guests on Saturdays.) Other tips— go early if you seek a mellow experience, know that Friday is cheaper than Saturday, and sit at Icicle Brewing Company, Sulla Vita or the Goose Ridge tasting room for the people watching. In general, cycling is a good way to get around in high season. “The trickiest part of living in Leavenworth is navigating around
town during peak periods,” Vandenbrink said. “In the spring and summer, I just jump on my bike, so sitting in traffic or parking aren’t an issue.” After checking out the festival revelry, pop into stores like Posy Handpicked Goods, where the owner raves about her location along a “row of small-production companies that have a lot of soul and speak their own vibe.” This woman-owned shop supports small businesses mostly from the Pacific Northwest. Next door, The Hunter’s Wife serves healthful takeaway fuel, ideal for commencing your journey home. (Think plant-powered meals and refreshing smoothies with names such as “Mystic Matcha.”) On the drive back to Seattle, treat yourself to a coffee pit stop at Little Red Shed, about halfway between Leavenworth and the pass. Or—as a nod to your Americana road trip— tuck into a burger and fries, served out of the 59er Diner food truck, as memories of your blissful Bavarian getaway fade in the rearview mirror. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Leavenworth-area trails leavenworth.org/trails Arlberg Sports Haus arlbergsports.com
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northwest destination
California Redwoods
History and therapy among the giants written by Kevin Max
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Driving through the trees elicits a big “wow.” Battery Point Lighthouse dates to 1856. Guinness enjoys the trails through the Redwoods.
THE CALIFORNIA REDWOODS are tree history writ large. The first time you drive through the giant sequoias and walk beneath them brings, at first, a silent shock that recedes to awe—being humbled in the presence of something extraordinary. The exclamation “Wow!” must have been uttered here first, summoned from pure reaction without diction. The sheer size of a Redwood—wow! The 16-foot trunk is wider than my car. This one is twice the width of my car. Getting out of the car, the next dimension unfolds—wow! This tree is 300 hundred feet tall and as thick at the top as at the bottom. The Redwoods are 206 square miles of massive stakes driven into the forest floor as a history marker of America. The oldest, at 700 years old, were there when Karuk, Yurok, Hupa and Tolowa tribesmen hunted among them. They were there when Spaniards sailed in, bringing religion and disease, as the number of humans in their shadows were culled by 90 percent. They 84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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were there at the arrival of people with paler faces after the Mexican-American War and the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, then the passage of horses and carts carrying gold-miner pans and broken dreams on the unwitting march to manifest destiny. Trees store sugar, cellulose and carbon, even environmental data. Imagine if they could play back memories. Then there’s me, standing in awe of it all. Just be in the Redwoods, I tell myself, and you, too, will be part of the historic memory, another atom cast in carbon and stacking up through the canopy like a natural Tower of Babel. As we drove south from Oregon, we stopped on a whim in Cave Junction. Good things happen here. Cave Junction is home to Taylor’s Sausage, a fifth-generation craft salumi. The deli’s walls are made of carnivore dreams—refrigeration cases filled with packages of beer sausage, bockwurst and boudin blanc. We grabbed a pack of jalepeño sausages and Taylor’s version of English bangers, hoping to impress a British friend at dinner in
CALIFORNIA REDWOODS
northwest destination
EAT Hiouchi Cafe, Crescent City hiouchicafe.com Taylor’s Sausage, Cave Junction taylorssausage.com SeaQuake Brewing, Crescent City seaquakebrewing.com
STAY Jedediah Smith State Park parks.ca.gov Redwoods RV Resort redwoodsrv.com
PLAY Hiking in the Redwoods nps.gov/redw/planyourvisit/ hiking.htm Take a guided kayak tour on the Smith River redwoodrides.com Scenic drives through the parks parks.ca.gov
a couple of nights. Across the deli and on a stage surrounded by dining tables was a two-person music act. They crooned “Sweet Melissa” to a hopping scene on a Thursday night. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park was full, so I reserved a spot at Redwoods RV Resort, a surprisingly quiet camp outside Crescent City and along the Redwood Highway, a scenic byway. We honored our Taylor sausage with one of the best comfort camp meals—Pigs in Space, grilled sausage cut to bite size then folded into mac’n’cheese. We drank an IPA that brought tropical flavor to the cool Northern California night. After the dimensional daze of the size, scale and age of the Redwoods waned, we woke up and put on our trail running shoes for forest therapy, a psychological designation just now gaining foothold. Hiouchi Trail wound underfoot, with glimpses of the Smith River. This out-and-back with an additional leg on Howland Hill Road accounted for more than 6 miles, and an hour of mind-clearing therapy.
Part of our Redwoods weekend retreat involved a breakfast stop at the Hiouchi Cafe just a couple of miles back up the Redwoods Highway, in a little red wood building. Serving its customers since 1931, the town’s history was plated alongside pancakes and bacon. In the Redwoods is Crescent City, a hidden gem on the California coast. We’re suckers for lighthouses and Crescent City has the Battery Point Lighthouse, open and walkable during low tides. Dating to 1856, the Fresnel-lit lighthouse was among California’s first. At the terra firma end of the lighthouse pier is SeaQuake Brewing, a charming little brewery with a killer 9.2 Burger with homemade bacon jam and Wicked Aunt Tammy double IPA, brewed with water from the Smith River. From Crescent City, we headed back into the Redwoods with a few scenic drives in front of us—and a mouthful of wows. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
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1889 MAPPED The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville Bellingham
Friday Harbor
Republic Colville
Mount Vernon Port Angeles Coupeville Forks
Okanogan Lakewood Marysville Everett
Port Townsend
Newport
Seattle Port Orchard Shelton Aberdeen
Montesano
Wilbur
Waterville
Bellevue Renton Kent Federal Way Tacoma
Spokane Davenport
Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville
Olympia
Ellensburg Colfax
Chehalis
South Bend
Yakima Pomeroy Richland
Cathlamet Longview Kelso
Prosser
Pasco Kennewick
Dayton Walla Walla
Goldendale Vancouver
Stevenson
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15 Olympia Harbor Days
42 WISErg
72
Washington State University Creamery
16 Boat Race Weekend
44 The Waterfront
74
Two Mountain Winery
22 Girl Meets Dirt
46 Xerces Society training
78
Mayflower Park
23 E.Z Tiger
48 Segal Ranch
80
Leavenworth
34 Arlberg Sports
50 Blue North
84
Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park
86 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
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Until Next Time
More Than Just Coffee written by Lauren Lofthus | illustrated by Allison Bye
I REMEMBER SITTING in the stands at some kind of sporting event, cotton candy in one hand and my mom’s leftover coffee in the other. I would shove a clump of cotton candy in my mouth and wash it down with the coffee. This was my introduction to the bitter bean, and I’ve loved it ever since. Coffee is culture around Seattle. When you’re sitting in a coffee shop, you can often look out the window and see another coffee shop just down the street. I’m sure it seems weird to out-of-towners. Sure, our Washington clouds and cold mornings encourage the habit, but it goes deeper than that. If coffee was just about the warmth, we could drink tea. If coffee was about sugar, we could all get together for cupcakes. It would be hard to have a serious conversation while stuffing your face with cake, but that could be part of the fun. No, coffee is more than that. Coffee is about finding new places. Whether you want bright, fresh and airy, or cozy and dimly lit, you don’t have to look far to find a coffee shop that shares your aesthetic. Often they reflect something about the community around them. A Snohomish coffee shop might display an antique or two. An Everett coffee shop might have a more modern look. Coffee shops are a
88 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
good starting point when you’re trying to get to know a city’s personality. Coffee is about family. My dad taught me how to make French press coffee. My mom taught me how to make drip. My brother taught me how to make pour-overs. Even though my husband doesn’t drink coffee, he still makes an amazing brew. We put a pot on for all of our family gatherings, and when we go on vacations we find new favorites together. Finally, coffee is about making new friends. Around here, you do coffee if you’re just starting to get to know somebody. To be fair, you also do coffee if you’ve been friends for thirty years. Meeting at a coffee shop is a great way to set up a casual interaction before you’re good enough friends for something dramatic—like dinner. So, as much as I enjoy a rich cup of coffee (maybe mixed with cinnamon and orange, maybe topped with whipped cream) coffee isn’t really about coffee for me. Coffee is about living life.
Sources: 2016 Survey, Pew Research Center; GfK MRI, Spring 2016.
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