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volume 38
Discover 18 craft breweries and taprooms and savor hop country innovation at the tap. just minutes or even steps from where the hops are harvested.
Bale Breaker Brewing Co.
Hop Country Music Festival 9/15-16/2023
Fresh Hop Ale Festival 10/7/2023
GET YOUR FREE TRAVEL GUIDE AT VISITYAKIMA.COM
Home Refresh photography by Michael P. H. Clifford A Bellingham home renovation brings beauty and function together in a home overlooking Bellingham Bay. (pg. 30)
A folding glass door in this Bellingham home creates flow between the kitchen and the outdoors.
2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3
Embrace Whidbey and Camano Islands
Ben Ure Island near Cornet Bay and Whidbey Island.
FEATURES AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023 • volume 38
58 Campus Longhouses Universities in the Pacific Northwest struggle to create a culture for Native Americans. Are campus longhouses the answer? written by Lauren Kramer
64 Photogenic Food Photographer Nathan Myhrvold creates a world of intrigue with blueberries, coffee and more. written by Kerry Newberry
52 Take a Dip Five refreshing and out-ofthe-way places to cool off this hot summer. written by Ellen Hiatt
4
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
DEPARTMENTS AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023 • volume 38
LIVE
50
14 SAY WA?
A local pantry in Seattle; local arts at Smith Tower; local beer in Tumwater.
20 FOOD + DRINK
The Hop & Hound; 100 years of Almond Roca; best farmers markets.
24 FARM TO TABLE
Pacific Northwest albacore tuna. Pink Lemonade Project
30 HOME + DESIGN
A complete Bellingham remodel. Plus: Upgrade your backyard with a DIY hammock stand or colorful outdoor side tables.
38 MIND + BODY
Ana Swetish is America’s rising star surf ski paddler.
38
Keith Johnson/Far Corners Adventures
24
Ana Swetish
40 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Max McNett makes magic from agates.
THINK 44 STARTUP
Seattle’s Locust Cider finds a path forward after Covid.
46 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Ragfinery is a full-service upcycling model in Bellingham.
48 MY WORKSPACE
Cody Thomas gets creative.
50 GAME CHANGER
Pink Lemonade Project picks up where the Komen Foundation left off.
EXPLORE 70 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT Three Fingers Lookout.
72 ADVENTURE
10 Editor’s Letter 11 1889 Online 86 Map of Washington 88 Until Next Time
Three white water floats for the family.
76 LODGING
The Lodge at Columbia Point.
78 TRIP PLANNER
When the leaves turn, get to Leavenworth.
83 NW DESTINATION
Crater Lake, America’s sixth national park.
COVER
photo by Ben Herndon/TandemStock.com (see “Take a Dip,” pg. 52)
6
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Tualatin Valley
Sip, Stay, Repeat!
Visit the wineries of Oregon’s Tualatin Valley, the closest wine country to Portland.
Blizzard Wines Hillsboro, Oregon
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Plan a wine country excursion today at tualatinvalley.org
Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide
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CONTRIBUTORS
JEN SOTOLONGO Writer Adventure
ELLEN HIATT Writer Take a Dip
JONI KABANA Writer My Workspace
JACKIE DODD Writer + Photographer Beervana
“I’ve gone white water rafting a few times—I’m definitely no expert! Fortunately, I have several friends who are white water enthusiasts who I could reach out to for advice on this piece. Once I had a few suggestions, I researched suitability for families and made selections from there. I have to say, after all that, I’m itching to get out on the water for a ride!” (pg. 72)
“I grew up on a small lake near Warm Beach, learning to swim with the fish, listening to frog serenades out my bedroom window, and taking giant running leaps off the dock. After hours of summer swimming, a peanut butter-andjelly sandwich would satiate my hunger before diving in again. We are so blessed in the PNW to enjoy bodies of water of every kind, and exploring them always takes me back to those PB&Js and the perfect feeling of the sun drying my waterlogged skin.” (pg. 52)
“When I first saw one of Cody Thomas’ photographs, I thought I was viewing the work of an old world master. Printed via a negative, the photographic print had an ethereal feel about it, full of light aberrations from scratches and small dots of some kind of spilled substance. I knew I needed to purchase it, as it already felt like a treasure to me. I was quite surprised to find that Cody was in his very early 20s and had just discovered the art of photography. Since then, his art has expanded into many realms, each exuding that same vintage master feel.” (pg. 48)
“I may be biased, but the Pacific Northwest has the most outstanding breweries and overall beer scene. No matter how many breweries I visit, there always seems to be a new one somewhere within driving distance that I haven’t tried yet. Maybe it’s the fact that the majority of the hops grown on this continent come from the Yakima Valley region, maybe it’s our superior water supply, or possibly the farmto-fermenter mentality of our brewers, but there is no greater place than here to be a craft beer fan.” (pg. 20)
When not working on programming and restorations of the Spray General Store in Oregon, you can find Joni Kabana out on backroads digging up stories and visuals of small-town rural America or gazing at wilderness night skies for inspiration.
Jackie Dodd is a writer, photographer and cookbook author serving up beer-infused recipes in Seattle.
Jen Sotolongo is the founder of the adventure dog blog Long Haul Trekkers, a freelance writer and a book author. She is a PNW native and lives in the Columbia River Gorge with her dog, Sitka.
Ellen Hiatt is a Puget Soundbased writer who also enjoys managing Leadership Skagit at the Economic Development Alliance of Skagit County.
8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
BEERVANA COLUMNIST
Jackie Dodd
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Ellen Hiatt, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Lauren Purdy, Ben Salmon, Jen Sotolongo, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Michael P. H. Clifford, Jackie Dodd, Ben Herndon, Jill and Greg Jacobs (Capture.Share.Repeat.), Winston O’Neil, Eva Seelye, Aaron Theisen, Ethan Welty, Sandy Yonley
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9
FROM THE
EDITOR
THIS ISSUE drops on the heels of major milestones for America and the globe. We have just witnessed the repeal of Affirmative Action by the United State Supreme Court meanwhile surpassing the hottest days recorded on this planet. Before the repeal of Affirmative Action, we had been working on the feature story of campus longhouses that looks at the Pacific Northwest’s approach, struggle and compensation for college enrollment of Native Americans. That feature was filed and edited when the USSC overturned Affirmative Action. Surely, to have an informed conversation about either topic, we need to dispassionately look to facts, history and context over conjecture and bias. Affirmative Action was an executive order of the Kennedy Administration for the specific purpose of ensuring “that applicants are treated equally without regard to race, color, religion, sex, or national origin.” This was the beginning of the Civil Rights Movement, before which Black Americans had suffered more than 200 years of radical inequality of institutional racism in our shining beacon democracy that enshrined equality and justice for all. Since that executive action by JFK, the racial income gap between Black and white Americans has not narrowed. That gap has actually increased since the 1960s, according to the Federal Reserve Bank of Minneapolis and other studies. That is
10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
to say, if the original intent was to ensure that applicants were treated equally in 1964, the need is seemingly greater in 2023. Of course, it doesn’t get any better for Native Americans. The average Native American household has 8 cents of wealth for every dollar of wealth for the average white American household, according to Boeing Employee Credit Union. No one would dispute that wealth is opportunity and that opportunity is wealth. None of this bodes well for a world without a way to even minutely offset that at the university level—the gateway to opportunity. Nonetheless, our public university systems in the Pacific Northwest recognize some responsibility in working to bring opportunity to these communities, though they have largely been unsuccessful due to myriad complexities. Turn to page 58 to learn more about those efforts. Sadly, the planet is also getting hotter, driving record temperatures and extreme weather conditions. Thankfully, we have many watery ways to cool off while we all work together to find lasting cultural and environmental solutions to rising temperatures. Turn to page 52 for five places to jump in cool bodies of water across the state. If you’d rather bury your head from either of these realities, find the Berry Debonair cocktail recipe on page 21. Cheers!
1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington
WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Lisa Mize In June, the Palouse region explodes with greens and yellows.
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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
E NTUR E V D A MAIL
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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
11
SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 38
pg. 14 Close out your summer in style at South Sound Block Party and other local events.
Nate Burgher
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 40
Enjoy Olympic Peninsula • Explore • Relax
• Refresh
Summer at its
Finest
Endless acres of adventure and miles of memories await on the Olympic Peninsula.
From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com
say wa?
Tidbits + To-dos Nate Burgher
written by Lauren Purdy
South Sound Block Party This August 25-26, gear up for Olympia’s South Sound Block Party featuring both local and national indie acts for two days of live music along Olympia’s downtown waterfront. This year’s headliners include the Oakland-based indie-pop Tune-Yards—best known for their 2011 album Whokill, which placed first in The Village Voice’s annual Pazz and Jop critics’ poll that same year—and Jake Wesley Rogers, a Nashville-based singer-songwriter who most recently toured as an opening act for both Ben Platt and Panic! At The Disco. In addition to the musical acts, the festival highlights a number of local vendors and aims to restore, preserve and contribute to the historic and legendary Olympia-area music scene for years to come. Both single- and multi-day tickets are available for purchase online. Local Yokels
www.southsoundblockparty.com your mark DAR
CALE
N
CA
r ou R k y DA ar m EN
Local Yokels is in business to drive a food revolution with their Seattle-based food subscription and delivery service, featuring local pantry and fresh organic produce. Founded in 2017, owners Amber Whittenberg and Damon Grady strive to do what conventional grocery stores can’t—deliver groceries with a 95 percent reduced carbon footprint compared to conventional grocery stores, exclusively use recyclable and compostable packaging, and create a closed loop system between their customers and farmers. Purchase à la carte or choose from one of their carefully chosen subscriptions, such as the dairy/ butcher subscription featuring cow and goat products from TUNaWERTH Creamery, Golden Glen Creamery cheese and Olsen Farms beef. Order online or visit their retail store in Seattle’s Maple Leaf neighborhood.
L
www.local-yokels.com
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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Smith Tower
Local Yokels
Smith Tower First Wednesday Night Market Located in the heart of Seattle’s historic Pioneer Square neighborhood, the Smith Tower is one of the city’s architectural gems. Constructed in 1914, the tower was one of the tallest buildings outside of New York City when built and features neoclassical architecture and sweeping views across the Puget Sound. On the first Wednesday of September, visitors can take advantage of free admission to the historic Smith Tower’s Observation Deck and Observatory Bar as well as a showcase of local artisans and vendors throughout the building. Tickets are available online with a small processing fee. www.smithtower.com
Jenny Jimenez/Parlour Wines
Looking to cool off after a dip on Lake Washington? Head down the street to Parlour Wines, a boutique wine bar and shop featuring organic and estate wines. Tucked away in Seattle’s vibrant Madison Park neighborhood, Parlour Wines specializes in Italian natural wines along with other European and New World sections. Stop into the shop to experience a rotating selection of red, orange, still and sparkling rosé and white wines, curated for their quality and evocative of place. Bottles are also available for purchase to-go in store or online.
www.parlourwinesmp.com
City of Tumwater Parks & Recreation Department
Parlour Wines
ca mark le you nd r ar
say wa?
Tumwater Artesian Brewfest Sample brews from more than forty Washington and Oregon craft breweries, cideries and wineries at Tumwater’s Artesian Brewfest on August 19. Hosted in the shadow of the former Olympia Brewery, taste local favorites including Lacey’s Axis Meads, White Salmon’s Everybody’s Brewing, Tumwater’s Hoh River Brewing and Chimacum’s Finnriver Cidery. Savor food from local vendors and restaurants. Play mini golf or super-sized beer pong, or enter a stein-holding competition. Pre-purchase tickets and drink tokens online or upon entry. www.tumwaterartesianbrewfest.com
ca mark le you nd r ar
Shanna Paxton Photography/Olympia Harbor Days
Olympia Harbor Days Celebrating its 50th year, the threeday Olympia Harbor Days Festival returns September 1-3 during Labor Day weekend to feature the maritime heritage of the South Puget Sound. The event is a longtime community favorite, winning the Best South Puget Sound Event of 2022 by Washington Festivals & Events Association and South Sound Magazine’s Best Festival in 2023. Hosted by the South Sound Maritime Heritage Association, the celebration offers a wide array of family-friendly activities. Attendees can climb aboard tugboats and explore the seven blocks of the festival to find makers markets, food galleries featuring cedar stick-smoked salmon, music, sand carving, crafts and games. Discover the regional culture and heritage of the vintage tugboats and local coastal tribes. Entry is free. www.harbordays.com
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15
say wa?
Musician
After a couple years of quiet, Spencer Sult is back with a new Generifus album
Listen on Spotify
written by Ben Salmon Spencer Sult, under his nom d’arte Generifus, is back from dormancy with Rearrangel, a folk and Americana album.
SINCE 2005, Spencer Sult has been quite prolific as a recording artist under the name Generifus, putting out a slew of albums, EPs and singles on small indie labels and releasing an average of about one full-length per year between 2011 and 2020. But then, he stopped, for a variety of reasons. He returned home to Olympia from tour in early March of 2020 feeling burned out on music after so many busy years and ready for a break. “I was kind of at a point where I was like, ‘Cool, I can just kind of tune out from this for a while and focus on other stuff,’” Sult said in a recent telephone interview. Then, the Covid-19 pandemic came along, separating Sult from his musician friends and shutting down live shows. He also moved from one place to another, which required dismantling his music room. At about the same time, he was experiencing a period of songwriting dormancy that he traces back—in part, at least—to a change in his creative process. “I used to drink whiskey and write … and then go back and form what I’d written into something more coherent,” Sult said. “And when I quit drinking, I didn’t have that kind of workflow anymore. So I went through a period where I was adjusting to that, and there ended up being like two years where I wasn’t really doing much, musically.” 16
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
By the beginning of 2022, however, Sult had his music room back in order and he began putting together the songs that make up his new album, Rearrangel, released in June via two excellent cassette-focused labels: Anything Bagel out of Montana and Bud Tapes, based in Portland. Recorded with Zach Burba and Vin Christopher at Trash Treasury studio in Portland, Rearrangel’s ten tracks showcase Sult’s knack for easy-going folk rock, ambling Americana and twangy jams that feel as organic and overcast as the Pacific Northwest. It’s a set of tunes that split the difference between Sult’s younger years, which he spent absorbing the region’s DIY heroes like Phil Elverum and Karl Blau, and his more recent interest in Neil Young, ’70s country-rock and the Grateful Dead. Thematically, Sult stops short of saying the songs on Rearrangel are about redemption, instead choosing to characterize them as reflections on the past, the present and the changes that happen along the way. “The older albums are maybe a little gritty and about how I’m bad but I can’t do anything about it,” he said. “Now it’s more like, ‘Oh, well, I was kind of bad but, you know, that’s OK and I’m doing better now.’”
Brooke Bolding
Organic, Overcast Jams
say wa?
Bibliophile
Insurrection Resurrection Warnings and solutions: A Northwest expert on American right-wing extremism AWARD-WINNING JOURNALIST David Neiwert’s new book is The Age of Insurrection: The Radical Right’s Assault on American Democracy. Neiwert, based in Seattle, has followed the rise of the right’s extremist groups since the late 1970s, when he was a young reporter in Idaho. He explores how the movement was built over decades, how it was set aflame by Donald Trump and his cohorts, and how it will continue to attack American democracy. Neiwert has chronicled the Pacific Northwest breeding ground of extremist violence since neo-Nazis migrated from Southern California in the 1970s and how it has affected the Portland and Seattle areas during the last decade. Why has the Northwest been a breeding ground of extremist violence? There’s a long-running thread of farright extremism in the Pacific Northwest, some dating back to the migration of ex-Confederates to the region after the Civil War but expressed through anti-Asian campaigns through the 1940s, the heavy presence of the Ku Klux Klan in the 1920s and the neo-Nazi Silvershirts in the 1930s. The region was a major organizing center for the John Birch Society in the 1960s and ’70s, especially in southern Idaho. So when serious neo-Nazi elements in the shape of the Aryan Nations showed up in the Idaho Panhandle in the 1970s and began recruiting like-minded extremists to move here, they found a generally congenial environment for doing so. And when these same “Christian Patriots” shifted to organizing paramilitary militia cells and recruiting on the internet in ’90s and 2000s, they finally found the traction they had long sought. 18
Erin Corra
interview by Cathy Carroll
David Neiwert has appeared on many major news shows including Anderson Cooper 360° and has won a National Press Club award for Distinguished Online Journalism.
Your book states that January 6, 2021, insurrectionists are marshaling efforts for a repeat for the 2024 presidential election. What should be done to prevent that?” First and perhaps most essential, the political mechanism for overturning the election that was intended to be triggered by the mob siege of Congress— namely, throwing the election back to state legislatures with slates of phony “electors” waiting in the wings after Trump invoked the Insurrection Act—needs to be confronted and short-circuited. A recent Supreme Court ruling declaring the operative theory behind the plan invalid is a good first step in this direction, but the criminal investigations of the fraudulent “electors” scheme, which appears to be in violation of federal and state election laws, need to produce real prosecutions. Finally, the people in charge of providing security at the Capitol—including the FBI and Capitol and Metro Police—need to be robustly prepared to repel any attempted mob siege on future Electoral College ballot-certification days.
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
How do recent events in Sequim offer a blueprint for average citizens to push back against extremists?” Sequim is like a hundred thousand similar small towns—run by ordinary people who do so out of civic-mindedness, and who seek to maintain security, stability and civility in their communities. So when a group of far-right QAnon cultists quietly ran for the town council and successfully achieved majority control, and then promptly embarked on a program of radical upheaval, the town’s majority—caught off-guard by a phenomenon most of them knew little about before the takeover—fought back. Emphasizing core community values, they organized a slate of candidates to oppose the new councilmen in the next election and won resoundingly. The city demonstrated the effectiveness of the core principles required for fighting back: Use democracy— by reviving it and defending it, organizing and calling out the people tearing it down—to combat this antidemocratic tide. It’s a blueprint that we know can work.
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Beervana
Dogs, Beer and Community written and photographed by Jackie Dodd “HEY, ERIC! Congrats on nine years, bud!” A silver SUV slows as it passes the serpentine line of customers waiting to be let into The Hop and Hound’s anniversary celebration to shout his well wishes to half of the husband-and-wife team behind the beloved Bothell neighborhood spot. Eric Schaffer holds a toddler in one arm and the leash of his bloodhound in the other as he stands outside greeting the patrons waiting for the doors to open on a cold, rainy June morning. A line of people and pets that have blurred the line between patron and family for nearly a decade. The groundswell of support that has grown around the couple as they bring tasty craft beer offerings from all over the country has formed itself into the shape of a tightknit community. When asked about the possibility of expansion, the team’s response feels 20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
more like a protective parent than a shrewd business owner; they are too loyal to the community they have built in Bothell to risk their time and attention elsewhere. It’s a loyalty that goes both ways. When the pandemic hit, the patrons didn’t stop showing up. They bought gift certificates they didn’t plan to use to infuse the business with quick cash, filled growlers full of beer daily, bought cans of beer to go, and called just to offer support. Any money the couple received went right to their staff, a move that ensured they didn’t lose anyone during the difficult time. When the City of Bothell allowed the neighboring street to stay closed post-pandemic for outside seating but didn’t allow The Hop and Hound to do the same on their street, the city was so inundated with calls, emails and patrons showing up at their council meetings to advocate for
food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Vovina / KIRKLAND
Berry Debonair CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT Waylon the hound greets visitors at The Hop and Hound in Bothell. Customers line up outside The Hop and Hound. Eric Schaffer serves beer to Hop and Hound regulars.
onto the wall. It’s just the Schaffers that another example of the city relented, alTHE HOP AND HOUND how this neighborlowing The Hop and 18116 101ST AVE. NE hood spot has grown Hound to permaBOTHELL a community. nently have a streetwww.thehopandhound.com The Schaffers may side outdoor space What to Know: have started the craft for the dogs and their • Dog-friendly • Year-round patio seating beer explosion in the humans to enjoy. • 21+ only area, or they may Lauren Schaffer, the • Food trucks on Friday have just been ahead other half of the ownand Saturday of the curve, but one ership team, rings up thing is certain: They customers buying the are at the epicenter heavily curated selection of craft beer as Waylon, the hound of a growing ale trail in King County. in this equation, howls with joy as furry When they opened the shop, just off the regulars and their beer-drinking com- small main street in Bothell, they were panions enter the small tap room. Lau- first. The Hop and Hound opened beren knows most customers by name, fore The Bine, Beardslee Public House, asking about children, upcoming vaca- Cairn Brewing, 192 Brewing or any tions and recent surgeries. The Schaffers decent craft beer spots were nearby. seamlessly navigate the busy morning Without a road map, they took a gamble switching between tasks like a well-re- on Bothell being the type of place that hearsed dance honed over the past nine needed a local hangout for dog people years. The walls are lined with costumed who wanted a great craft beer, and they dog photos, a tradition that started on were right. Bothell and the community a long ago “Howl-oween” and continues they have grown in the small space they all year long as patrons bring in their occupy are grateful they knew what they dolled-up dogs in hopes of making it were doing.
Vovina’s drinks use house infusions, syrups and shrubs. Also known as “drinking vinegars,” shrubs are a great way to add complexity and flavor to a cocktail. Vovina uses equal parts fruit, vinegar and sugar—plus a little water—to make their shrubs, which can add both fruity sweetness and tang to a drink. The recipe below uses a honey syrup that is easy to make at home.
• 2 ounces gin (for this recipe, we suggest a gin with fruit notes—such as Seagram’s— rather than a London dry or an herby/savory gin, such as Hendrick’s) • ½ ounce Grand Marnier • ½ ounce lemon juice • ½ ounce honey syrup (recipe below) • 1 berry shrub • Fresh berries of your choice, for garnish FOR HONEY SYRUP Combine equal parts honey and warm water in a container or saucepan, and stir until honey is dissolved. Allow to cool before use. Store excess syrup in an airtight container in the fridge. FOR COCKTAIL Add all ingredients except garnish to a mixing tin with ice. Shake for 20 seconds, and strain into a coupe or martini glass. Garnish with fresh berries.
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21
Lisa Barker/Travel Tacoma
food + drink
CRAVINGS MUSSELS There’s nothing quite like eating mussels in view of the water. At Front Street Grill, you can also eat them steeped in a spicy, satisfying green curry sauce (with or without linguini underneath). 20 FRONT ST. COUPEVILLE www.fsgcoupeville.com
UPSCALE COMFORT FOOD The perfect meal after a long day of wine tasting, Public House 124 does hearty basics with a satisfying twist. Don’t miss the Reuben—I have it on good authority that it might just change your life. 124 E. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA www.ph124.com
CHEESE Almond Roca is a Washington original and celebrates its centennial this year.
Gastronomy
Almond Roca written by Cara Strickland YOU’RE PROBABLY familiar with Almond Roca, a crunchy, buttery candy enrobed in chocolate and topped with almonds. You might not know that this confection was born in Washington—Tacoma to be exact—and was the brain child of two friends, one of whom brought candy-making know-how to the table, while the other brought business sense. They met in 1908 and went into partnership together in 1912. While Almond Roca wasn’t their first product, it’s the one that took off. A Tacoma librarian came up with the name, and this treat rolled into the marketplace in 1923. It celebrates a delicious centennial this year, with no signs of slowing down. Once these treats made their way into their iconic pink tin—which took a few years—the shelf life increased, and it became a worldwide export. Almond Roca became a favorite with adventurers and jet setters, and it was known as “the candy that travels.” During the war, the company supplied soldiers with a sweet taste of home, and a tin even make its way to the top of Everest with Edmund Hillary, though the candy did not. It’s not hard to see what captured the world’s attention, but it’s even more special to claim this celebrated confection as a Washington state original—they still make it right here in a former shoe factory they converted in Tacoma. Here’s to 100 more years of sweetness, right here in our backyard. TACOMA/FIFE WIDELY AVAILABLE www.brown-haley.com
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You’ll find Tieton Farm & Creamery’s delicious cheeses throughout Washington at fine restaurants, markets and grocery stores. But even though their reach has grown, owners and partners Ruth and Lori are passionate about making sure they are connected with their land and neighbors in the Yakima Valley (you’ll find them at the Downtown Yakima Farmers Market) as well as being good stewards of the earth with an extensive sustainability policy. 18796 SUMMITVIEW ROAD TIETON www.tietonfarmandcreamery.com
TIKI COCKTAILS Navy Strength might not look like the tiki bar you’re picturing—the big windows let in lots of light, and the bustling world of Seattle. But take one sip of one of their rum-forward concoctions, and you’ll soon find yourself in an island paradise of your own—one with no wooden paneling or basement vibes. With twice-yearly menu changes, there are lots of reasons to go back. And you may never want to leave. 2505 2ND AVE. SEATTLE www.navystrengthseattle.com
BEST PLACES FOR
FARMERS MARKETS Washington has a wealth of farmers markets, highlighting the best of each part of the region. Here are a few favorites to check out (but you’ll probably want to seek out even more.) There are few better ways to get to know a region than by seeing what kind of produce grows close enough to bring to market.
Photos: Durkin’s Liquor Bar
food + drink
DOWNTOWN YAKIMA FARMERS MARKET Located in downtown Yakima, this market runs every Sunday from Mother’s Day through October. Depending on the season, you can pick up some squash blossoms, beans, cheeses and a range vegetables, many of which might be varieties that are new to you. 15 W. YAKIMA AVE. YAKIMA www.downtownyakimafarmersmarket.com
THURSDAY MARKET While there are several markets in Spokane, this one has been a consistent favorite, a staple of Spokane’s walkable, funky Perry District. Pick up some locally grown peaches at the height of ripeness, purchase some grass-fed beef or pork and chat with the rancher, all while sipping a bubble tea and listening to ever-rotating live music. It’s an experience that’s hard to beat. Catch this market between May and October.
Durkin’s in Spokane takes bar food to a new level.
Dining
Durkin’s Liquor Bar written by Cara Strickland
This market is one of the rare ones open all year. You can wander in Thursday through Sunday (April through October), Saturday and Sunday (November through December), and Saturdays only (January through March). Pick up a pastry, shop for seafood and produce, and do a little gift shopping while you’re at it.
ONE OF THE most interesting parts of Spokane, and the downtown area in particular, is the rich history in so many buildings and the ways it has been rediscovered, celebrated and preserved. That was part of the allure when a longstanding Spokane restaurant family opened Durkin’s. Don’t let the name throw you—they might have excellent drinks, but the menu goes far beyond basic bar food with a focus on fresh seafood, local produce and house-made items ranging from classically delicious to refreshingly unique. The Durkin’s name is a nod to James Durkin, who arrived in Spokane in the late 1800s and created a well-priced, comfortable establishment for drinks and community, which did a thriving business until just before Prohibition, when he ran a fire sale on leftover liquor and managed to hold onto the wealth he’d amassed. I have a feeling Durkin would have loved the casual, elegant atmosphere with an emphasis on quality, and I think he’d be tickled by the speakeasy-style basement bar, right around the locations of some of Spokane’s original speakeasies. Whether you’re looking for a blast from the past, something a little more modern, or a blend of both, there’s something here for you.
700 CAPITOL WAY N. OLYMPIA www.olympiafarmersmarket.com
415 W. MAIN ST. SPOKANE www.durkinsliquorbar.com
924 S. PERRY ST. SPOKANE www.thursdaymarket.org
OLYMPIA FARMERS MARKET
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farm to table
A commercial fishing boat leaves the Westport Marina.
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farm to table
Customers purchase fresh tuna from fishermen in Westport.
Farm to Table
All About Albacore Whether buying it on the dock or catching it off the coast, tuna is a fresh, flavorful choice in the kitchen written by Corinne Whiting | photography by Capture.Share.Repeat. NO DOUBT, for many, fresh local seafood feasts represent the pinnacle of Pacific Northwest living, especially during sun-kissed summer months. Albacore tuna (or Thunnus alalunga) is caught in both commercial and recreational fisheries. Lisa Pfeiffer, Economist at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Marine Fisheries Service, explains that there has been an economically valuable albacore fishery off the U.S. west coast for more than a century. Currently, albacore are mainly caught off the coast of Washington and Oregon, up to about 200 kilometers offshore. “U.S. wild-caught Pacific albacore tuna is a great seafood choice because it is sustainably managed and responsibly harvested under U.S. regulations,” she said. She shared facts about the fish, too: Albacore can swim at speeds exceeding 50 miles per hour. Also, they lack
the structures needed to pump oxygenrich water over their gills so, in order to breathe, they must constantly swim with their mouths open. With common names such as Pacific albacore, German bonito, longfin, longfin tuna and longfin tunny, the species feeds less on squid as it ages and more on fish such as saury, lanternfish or rockfish. Off the Washington and Oregon coasts, albacore feed primarily on saury and northern anchovy. Even though albacore can be caught all summer and into early fall off the Washington coast, August and September prove the most popular months for anglers since albacore tend to be more abundant then, and the weather a bit calmer. Patterns change with these fish. “The distribution of where albacore tuna have been caught is highly variable over time,”
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farm to table
A worker fillets tuna at a processing facility.
Pfeiffer said, “and the drivers of that variability are both oceanographic factors and economic factors, but not well understood.” In recent years, catches have been concentrated in waters off of Washington and Oregon, from about 100 to 200 kilometers offshore. “In the past, fishing effort had covered the high seas, up to 1,500 kilometers offshore, from southern California to British Columbia. There is an expectation that the population may shift to more northern waters as the ocean warms due to climate change,” she added. Classified as a highly migratory species, fish such as these travel long distances and often cross domestic and international boundaries. “This means that sustainable management of the fishery must be achieved through international collaboration,” Pfeiffer explained. “Only about 15 to 20 percent of the total catch is caught in U.S. waters by U.S. fishers.” Pfeiffer tips off Seattle home cooks that they can often buy albacore tuna, high in protein and Omega-3 fatty acids, off the boat at Fisherman’s Terminal in Magnolia. “Eat it as fresh as possible,” she says, “or vacuum pack and freeze it.” Since albacore can be quite strong, her preferred preparation is barbecued with some cayenne, or served in fish tacos. At Seattle institution Ray’s Boathouse & Café, which celebrated a major half-century milestone in June, Executive Chef Kevin Murray shares that their sourced albacore tuna gets caught off 26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
the Oregon coast by hook and line. Albacore caught in this area and with this method is classified as “Best Choice” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. “Buying from local sources that are doing the right things sustainably speaking is what we at Ray’s have been about for the past fifty years,” Murray said. Chef Murray advises on how to find fresh local albacore in July, August and September. “You can find them at your local fishmonger during these months only,” he said. “Otherwise, look for frozen albacore that is labeled ‘sushi-grade’—this is the premium stuff!” If working with fresh tuna, always plan to cook and eat it the day it’s been bought. If frozen, allow it to fully thaw in your refrigerator before use. Murray finds albacore delicious when it’s lightly grilled or seared. According to this culinary talent, all that’s needed is a simple rub, or just salt and pepper, and less than one minute on each side. Over the years, the Ray’s team has most favored a seared rare tuna preparation. Murray said, “The slight sear on all sides creates just enough textural juxtaposition to keep it interesting!” Washington’s waterside town of Westport has become the hub where a significant portion of the North Pacific albacore tuna fleet delivers its catch. (The tuna that lands here is pole and line caught.) Again this year, on August 11 and 12, the annual Washington Tuna Classic returns to Westport, much to the delight of tuna lovers who gather from near and far.
A tuna is displayed by a fisherman in Westport.
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Albacore Tataki Ray’s Boathouse & Café
Sugo / SEATTLE Chef Young Cho
Pink Peppercorn-Crusted Oregon Albacore Cobb Salad.
Washington Recipes
’Core Fitness Menu Pink Peppercorn-Crusted Oregon Albacore Cobb Salad Ray’s Boathouse & Café / SEATTLE Kevin Murray SERVES 4 FOR THE CRUSTED ALBACORE • 4 4-ounce portions Oregon albacore tuna • 3½ tablespoons ground pink peppercorns • 1 tablespoon canola oil • Salt, to taste FOR THE RED WINE VINAIGRETTE • 2 cups red wine vinegar • ½ cup shallots, finely minced • 2½ tablespoons Dijon mustard • 2½ tablespoons honey • 1 teaspoon salt • ½ tablespoon ground pink peppercorns • 2½ cups CanOlive oil FOR THE SALAD • 6 cups romaine hearts, chopped • 3 cups spring mix • ½ pound sliced bacon, cooked and chopped • 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved • 2 avocados, diced • ½ red onion, thinly sliced • 4 6½-minute eggs, halved • Salt, to taste • Pepper, to taste FOR THE CRUSTED ALBACORE Season albacore tuna portions with salt, and liberally sprinkle ground pink peppercorns on all sides.
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Heat one tablespoon canola oil in a medium-sized skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, sear the tuna for 15 to 20 seconds per side. Allow tuna to cool slightly, then slice into three to four slices. Reserve until ready to serve. FOR THE RED WINE VINAIGRETTE Add red wine vinegar, shallots, mustard, honey, salt and ½ tablespoon of pink peppercorns to the bottom of a blender, or the cup designed for an immersion blender. Blend well to combine. While blending, slowly emulsify the CanOlive oil until fully combined. Note: This recipe will make more vinaigrette than needed, so plan to use it for another purpose in the future. FOR THE 6½-MINUTE EGGS Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath in a bowl large enough for 4 eggs. Place eggs in boiling water, and cook for exactly 6½ minutes. Remove from water and place in ice bath; allow to cool completely. Once cooled, peel eggs gently, and slice in half just before serving. TO ASSEMBLE THE SALAD In a large mixing bowl, toss the romaine hearts and spring mix with your desired amount of vinaigrette. Divide dressed greens among 4 large bowls. Around the rim of each bowl, place a quarter of chopped crispy bacon, cherry tomatoes, diced avocado, thinly sliced onion and two egg halves. Place sliced tuna in the center of the bowl and serve.
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FOR THE BLOOD ORANGE CURD • 2 egg yolks • ¼ cup granulated sugar • ¼ cup blood orange juice • ¼ cup unsalted butter FOR THE ALBACORE • 1 pound albacore filet • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil • 1 cup black sesame seeds • 1 teaspoon pomegranate seeds • 1 teaspoon sweety peppers • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon black pepper • 1 pinch micro cilantro • 1 pinch micro wasabi • 1 tablespoon caviar (optional) FOR THE BLOOD ORANGE CURD Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. Add egg yolks, sugar and blood orange juice to a mixing bowl that is wider than the diameter of the pot, and gently mix. When ingredients are incorporated, place the mixing bowl over the pot of boiling water and whisk vigorously to avoid “cooking” the eggs. This is called the double boil method. Once the mixture is silky, pull the bowl off the pot and add the butter. Whisk vigorously until smooth. Once mixed, leave the mixture out at room temperature to cool. If refrigerated, curd can hold in the refrigerator for up to five days. FOR THE ALBACORE Pat the albacore filet dry with a clean kitchen towel. Once the albacore is dry, coat all sides with olive oil. Next, mix the sesame seeds, salt and black pepper. Pour the mixture onto a baking sheet or a large flat plate. Lay the albacore on top of the sesame mix and pat firmly, coating all sides. In a nonstick pan, heat to medium-high and add a splash of oil coating the pan evenly. Sear each side of the filet for 30 seconds, taking care to not burn the sesame seeds to avoid a bitter taste. Remove from the pan once all sides are seared, and let it rest for five minutes. Once rested, slice the albacore into half-inch-thick slices. TO SERVE Add a dollop of the blood orange curd to a plate. Place the sliced albacore on top of the curd, and garnish with black sesame seeds, pomegranate, sweety peppers and micro herbs. If you are feeling extra fancy, caviar is a great briny and salty addition to the dish.
Fire & Vine Hospitality
Togarashi-Crusted Albacore Tuna with Wild Mushrooms, Baby Bok Choy and Dashi.
Togarashi-Crusted Albacore Tuna with Wild Mushrooms, Baby Bok Choy and Dashi
El Gaucho / VANCOUVER Executive chef Beau Carr SERVES 6
FOR THE TUNA AND VEGETABLES • 6 thick, rectangular cuts of albacore tuna (6-8 ounces each) • 1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil • 3 heads of baby bok choy, washed and split • 3 cups of wild mushrooms, sliced • Pickled vegetables to taste (optional)
FOR THE TOGARASHI • The zest from 2 oranges • 4 teaspoons minced garlic • 4 tablespoons black pepper, coarsely ground • 4 teaspoons poppy seeds • 4 teaspoons sesame seeds • 4 teaspoons coarse kosher salt • 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper • 1 nori sheet
FOR THE TOGARASHI Add the first seven ingredients to a stainlesssteel bowl. Break up nori sheet into a coffee grinder or spice grinder, and grind into fine flakes. Add the nori to the bowl, and using a fork or your clean hands, work the mixture together to evenly distribute the orange zest and garlic throughout. Store in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to a week or freeze.
FOR THE DASHI • 1 piece of kombu seaweed (a 4-inchsquare piece) • 5 cups of water • 1 cup bonito (dried fish flakes) • Soy sauce to taste
FOR THE DASHI Steep the kombu in the 5 cups of water, just under a simmer, for 10 minutes. Remove the kombu and discard. Add bonito, stir to combine, and barely simmer for another 15 minutes. Strain dashi through a fine strainer
and discard bonito or save for a different use. Season dashi to taste with soy sauce. Use immediately, refrigerate for up to three days or freeze. FOR THE TUNA AND VEGETABLES Coat the cuts of albacore tuna with togarashi. Set aside. Bring dashi to a very low simmer. Add bok choy and mushrooms, and cook until just done and still firm to the bite. Meanwhile, heat a small amount of vegetable oil in a large sauté pan (use two pans or work in batches if necessary) until it begins to shimmer, and small wisps of smoke appear. Add tuna and sear quickly on all sides. Remove from pan and place on a cutting board. Slice each piece of tuna into five or six slices each. TO SERVE Divide bok choy and mushrooms evenly into six large bowls. Spoon in some dashi. Arrange tuna slices in an attractive manner in the bowls. Garnish with pickled vegetables of your choice. Any remaining dashi can be saved for later use.
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home + design
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home + design
Diamond in the Rough A talented trio collaborate to transform a Bellingham home into a true gem written by Melissa Dalton photography by Michael P. H. Clifford SOME HOUSES just have a little mystery about them. Such was the case with this Bellingham home in the South Hill neighborhood when the most recent owners bought it in 2017 and initiated a full-scale remodel. Built in 1950, the home had a few markers of its mid-century construction, like the Roman brick encasing the fireplace, mixed with more traditional details, like steel casement windows. “I would refer to it as English Arts and Craft tradition,” said architect Adair Orr of Armadillo Design Lab, who, over the course of the remodel, was given original design documents that revealed the home was a custom design from local firm Homer Bernard Mathis & Associates. “We’ll never know exactly what that architect’s influences were, but the result is pretty distinct for this region.” Orr teamed up with interior designer Lisa Staton of Lisa Staton Interior Design and Chuckanut Builders on a top-tobottom remodel prior to the pandemic, in which they endeavored to keep many of the home’s historical characteristics intact, while modernizing the floorplan and function. That entailed opening up the main level so it didn’t feel quite so compartmentalized between the main living spaces, adding 150 square feet to the kitchen, and relocating and enlarging the primary suite upstairs, complete with a large dormer that matches the style of the existing roof. “There was some tricky structural work that had to be done in a way so as not to alter the front facade of the house,” said Ian Rae, partner and chief executive officer of Chuckanut Builders. Such changes are incisive
ABOVE The Bellingham home resisted style characterization. AT LEFT Bellingham Bay spreads out below.
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For interior finishes, the team preserved the original oak floors and feathered in new wood to match where necessary. Then they wove in a repeating motif of highly crafted walnut and black steel accents throughout. 32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
rather than intrusive, and can’t be seen from the street, in order to keep the home in character with the surrounding neighborhood. Inside, a few tweaks improved the visual connection to the incredible views of Bellingham Bay off the rear deck. Before, primarily the living room benefited from large picture windows, while the kitchen and upstairs bedrooms had to make do with smaller units. To remedy this, Orr added a 12-foot-wide folding glass door to the kitchen to create flow between inside and out, while the upstairs primary suite has a large window in the new dormer to foster sightlines of the water from the bed. Elsewhere, the contractor restored the original steel casement windows, which are “uncommon” in houses in the area, noted Orr. “Steel windows give a lot of definition and detail without the bulk of a wood frame, so it preserves these beautiful interior sightlines and views, and gives visual interest,” said Orr.
ABOVE Architects and designers worked to open the floor plan, while retaining the original oak floors. AT RIGHT, FROM TOP The primary suite was relocated upstairs and given a new dormer. Walnut paneling in the bathroom and a forget-everything bath. A custom shower with steel, brass and fluted glass.
As for interior finishes, the team preserved the original oak floors and feathered in new wood to match where necessary. Then they blended in new walnut details to echo a retained walnut built-in unit in the upstairs hall, and wove in a repeating motif of highly crafted walnut and black steel accents throughout. This comes together in the kitchen, with its walnut cabinets and open shelves suspended on black steel rods, as well as in the primary suite. There, a custom platform bed with a fluted glass screen is a nod to the home’s mid-century provenance, with more walnut storage tucked into the wall cavities. In the primary bathroom, walnut wall paneling is joined by a custom shower enclosure utilizing fluted glass, a steel and brass armature, and handmade tile. The enclosure was a “fun puzzle,” said Orr. “It made reference to the delicate steel windows, and a number of these unlacquered AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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home + design
brass plumbing fixtures that Lisa selected. It was a point in the project where we put all our heads together and really invented something.” The clients were also clear about what they didn’t want: “A big white neutral canvas,” said Staton, who layered color, natural texture, and artful pattern to bring warmth, soul, and a little moodiness to the surroundings. “What I love about this house is that we were able to give the client a really colorful, playful narrative without it being cutesy, or busy, or too patterned,” said Staton. In the kitchen, the blue encaustic concrete tile floor pops against the wood tones, while quartzite marble counters are an organic counterpoint. Watercolor cloudscape wallpaper and a cast concrete sink in the formal powder room add unexpected shades of aquamarine. The living room sports inky deep blue walls and a curving rust-colored mohair sectional alongside the fireplace, which had the fire box lifted and a dedicated hearth added, as well as a new chunky stone façade, to make for a comfortable lounge area. Ultimately, the home’s original transitional style became its strength in the remodel. “The house was built at this super interesting moment in time,” said Staton. “It’s not quite pre-World War II Craftsman or Tudor, but not quite full-tilt, mid-century modern. It absolutely had winks of both, so we sought to infuse both in the remodel.” ABOVE The living room brings together deep blue walls with a rust-colored sofa focused on the fireplace. AT RIGHT The powder room adds interest with cloudscape wallpaper and a concrete sink. FAR RIGHT The kitchen features open shelves, concrete tile and marble counters.
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home + design
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home + design
BOARD LENGTHS x2: 8’ boards
x4: 12” boards
x2: 48” boards
x3: 12” boards
x4: 48” boards
x4: 6” boards
boards that sandwich shorter support boards inside. You will need four 48-inch-long 2x4s, with 25-degree angles cut on either end. The four shorter boards will be 12 inches long each, with a 25-degree angle cut at only one end. Sandwich the shorter boards between the longer boards at either end, making sure the angled cuts align, and attach together with screws.
x2: 36” boards
ARM
SUPPORTS
2
BASE
FOOT
ATTACH SUPPORTS Using two 36-inch-long boards, slot one at either end at an angle to provide support. It will sit inside both the base and the arms, but will need extra support at the base. To do so, attach a 6-inch board on either side of the longer support so that it will fit inside the base. Attach with screws. Add three 12-inch boards inside the center of the base as well for stabilization.
DIY
Freestanding Hammock Stand WE’VE ALL SEEN the gorgeous backyard remodels that embrace outdoor living, from grill stations-turned-kitchens, to full living rooms, complete with rugs and throw pillows in durable fabrics. Such large projects are fantastic if you have the space and budget, but here’s something a little less complex and that can be built in an afternoon: a free-standing hammock stand. The beauty of a hammock is how transportive it can be, whether lazing about while sipping your morning coffee, or reading a book and taking an afternoon nap. Since not all yards have properly sized or spaced trees for easy installation, here are our instructions for building a free-standing hammock, so as to transform any corner of the yard into a chill zone. A NOTE ON LANGUAGE The hammock stand will consist of ground boards running the length of the hammock, called the “base,” as well as angled corner supports and an “arm” on either side, from which to hang the ham36
mock. Double-check hammock dimensions to ensure proper fit. You will need seven 8-foot 2x4s for this project. 1 BUILD THE ARMS Each arm will have two 48-inch
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BUILD THE BASE Start with two 8-foot 2x4s. Cut a 25-degree angle at either end, making sure the cuts mirror each other and the angles slope in toward the center of the board. Sandwich the arms inside the two long boards, one on either side, and attach with screws.
4
ADD FEET AND EYEBOLTS The feet consist of two 48-inch boards, centered on the bottom of the base. To hang the hammock, pre-drill holes at the top of the arms to install stainless-steel eye bolts, or use a hitch ring, depending on the preferred look.
5
FINISH AND NAP Paint or stain the wood to ensure durability against the elements. Place the hammock stand in a nice corner of the yard and hang the hammock. Now take a nap!
home + design
Colorful Outdoor Side Tables This colorful iron side table with a tray top does double duty. Thanks to the top handle, it can be picked up and moved wherever needed. Or, leave it in place, and lift the tray for easy serving. Available in four summery hues, it looks cute, too. www.anthropologie.com
It used to be that there wasn’t much variety when it came to outdoor furniture, with wood and metal being the predominant materials on the market. Then in 2007, Loll Designs took a different tack, creating loungers and side tables out of recycled and recyclable high-density polyethylene plastic. Not only is the Lollygagger side table waterproof, fade-resistant and maintenance-free, it comes in a rainbow of colors. And better yet—is completely recyclable! www.dwr.com
The fun thing about the Cell Side Table from Room & Board is that its hexagon shape is modular. So, it will look good standing alone, or can be paired with others to create a bigger table, depending on how big the party. Built from solid aluminum that’s been powdercoated in an array of colors, reviewers note it’s even durable enough to work as a stool in a pinch. www.roomandboard.com
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mind + body Sandy Yonley
Ana Swetish competes at the 2022 Gorge Downwind Championships.
Swetish and Her Surf Ski
The young Bellingham competitor is an international force in the water written by Lauren Kramer
WHEN THE WIND is blowing hard and the ocean is full of whitecapped waves, most of us are happy to sequester indoors and be grateful we’re not on the water. Not Ana Swetish. The intrepid 21-year-old from Bellingham grabs her surf ski and heads straight for the water to train. High wind between 30 and 60 knots delivers optimal conditions, and as a champion surf skier, she’s quick to take advantage of wind on the water minutes from her front door. Swetish won the Canoe Ocean Racing World Championships for the under-18 female division in surf ski in France in 2019, and came second overall in 2021 in the Canary Islands. In 2022, she won the under-23 female division in Porto, Portugal, and in November she’ll fly to Australia to do a sprint kayak race. A third-year kinesiology student at Western Washington University, she started paddling at 11. Her father, Tom Swetish, made a homemade surf ski a year later and introduced his daughter to it on Bellingham Bay. “Once I got the basics of surf skiing on flatwater, he started taking me out every chance we got, and I fell instantly in love with the sport,” Swetish said. 38
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mind + body
“I loved the patterns that I was able to find in the waves, and the energy they provided. And I loved that surf ski is as much a mental game as it is a physical one. When you’re going downwind, you’re trying to use the waves to your advantage by picking the best line through the waves. You have to look around constantly to find the best line because the water is dynamic and there’s so much happening all the time. The fact that you have to keep adapting to new conditions had me hooked.” As the only kid surf skiing in Bellingham at the time, she built her confidence and learned to surf surrounded by adults in the local surf ski community. “Most people just get out on the bay and figure out their wave skills—it’s really not something that people are taught here,” she reflected. The game changer for Swetish was in 2016, when Austin Kieffer came to town to train the kayak sprint team for the season. Swetish was on the team, and she was one of the few people interested in surf skiing, “which was his thing, too,” she recalls. Kieffer had joined the Surfski World League that year and was successfully competing at major events across North America, Australia and Asia. He coached Swetish in both sprint kayaking and surf skiing, and his enthusiasm was contagious. “Every training session with him was a blast, and as I paddled with Austin in the waves, he helped me with my downwind technique and taught me more about racing,” she said. “I’d watched Austin race all over the world, the sole American in a tough field of Aussies and South Africans, and that inspired me to work hard at paddling so I could be like him and represent America at the top of the women’s field. Austin mentored and inspired me to become the paddler I am today.” By the time she was 16, Swetish was competing nationally and internationally on the surf ski circuit, and while most of her competitors on the circuit are from South Africa and Australia, Swetish says Washington provides a great training ground for her races. “We get some really good surf ski conditions in Bellingham. In summer, we get one or two days each week of surfable waves on the bay, while in winter storms usually roll through, whipping up wind three or four days a week,” she said. “We have 25 kilometers of open water that can build up some good-sized waves when the wind blows the right direction!” For extra technical practice, she heads to Deception Pass. When high wind meets an ebb tide
“I loved the patterns that I was able to find in the waves, and the energy they provided. And I loved that surf ski is as much a mental game as it is a physical one.” — Ana Swetish in this one-kilometer tidal stretch, it creates incredibly steep waves. “Everyone who has been out there agrees that it is some of the wildest water they have ever been in!” she said. “The hours I’ve spent at this pass have given me skills and confidence in messy and unpredictable water, and it’s the best training you can get for intense, technical water.” It can be menacing out on the water in high wind, with waves that can easily reach 10 feet. Wearing neoprene apparel designed for surf skiing and attached to her surf ski by a leash, she carries a radio to call the Coast Guard should something terrible occur, like becoming detached from her boat a mile offshore. “Falling out of the boat does happen but I know how to remount and get back in, and I almost never fall out,” she said. “My dad taught me to be cautious and safe out there, and to have a healthy respect for the water. I know things can go wrong really quickly, but it doesn’t stop me from going out.” Swetish is looking forward to the biggest surf ski race in North America, the Gorge Downwind Championships in Hood River, Oregon, this summer. Once she graduates college she plans to travel for a year or two with her surf ski, following summer to compete as much as possible in the sport she loves. “I want the flexibility to be able to paddle and race as long as I can, because when I’m on the water I can forget about everything else and feel most relaxed,” she admits. “Sure, there are times I’ve been intimidated by the conditions, but I try never to let fear in, because when you start to get scared is when you start to make mistakes. I’m confident in my skills and my ability to read the waves.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Ana Swetish Surf Skier
Age: 21 Born: Racine, Wisconsin Lives: Bellingham
WORKOUT “My workout depends on the conditions. If it’s windy I’ll take my surf ski out on Bellingham Bay, where I’ll paddle upwind and ride the waves downwind. If the ocean is flat I’ll head to Lake Padden to do interval sessions. I like to throw in some biking, running and weight lifting at the gym, too.”
NUTRITION “I try and eat healthy foods, and consume a lot of protein, but I’m not on a specific diet.”
INSPIRATION “Austin Kieffer is my biggest mentor and role model. When I was growing up, he was one of the only other American paddlers and surf skiers who was doing well and racing the international circuit. He continues to be my inspiration to this day.”
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artist in residence Max McNett brings together agates and sculpting.
The Art of Discovery
Commercial artist Max McNett finds inspiration and connection in agates written by Ellen Hiatt
WHAT IS ART if not discovery? For Max McNett, it’s discovery of his own values and connection with the land, and with his family. It’s the discovery of a freshly flooded alpine creek revealing its store of Cascade Mountain agates. And it’s the discovery of returning to that creek with a lure, carved from the translucent stone into the shape of a crunchy bug, and catching a fish with it in a full circle moment. 40
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Art, says McNett, is not an end product. It’s the process, and one that calls him back again and again. He does, however, make a lot of end product, or “merch.” His bread and butter is as a graphic designer, working full time for Mothership Glass in Bellingham, painting murals for clients and for community art projects, designing T-shirts and logos for beer brands and others. He helped Bellingham artist Gretchen Leggitt paint what would become the largest mural in Washington state on the Bellingham Puget Sound Energy building—21,000 square feet of corrugated metal. Leggitt recalls she was “wildly intimidated” by the project at first. She cold-called McNett to see if he would help. “I had no idea where to begin,” she said. “I recall so clearly that he looked at me and was just so excited and said, ‘When it comes to walls, the bigger the better! Of course I would love to do this.’ He filled me with just an amazing amount of tools that I have used every day since. I owe a lot of my career to him.”
artist in residence
McNett gives one last attempt to the task of putting words to his work: “A lot of it dives back to what it means to be human. We have been toolmakers for all of our history. And foragers. I wonder if there isn’t some innate genetic attraction [to the] luscious, translucent material of these stones. I wonder how much of that comes from our desire as humans to find things that are luscious … berries, water. “There’s something that happens when you catch a fish on one of these lures. That’s almost a better feeling than anything else I can really think of,” he said. “That brings me a lot of fulfillment as an artist. It’s a form of discovery. How to express something for myself and connect me in a deeper way to those things that I find important and meaningful.”
“I know that my artwork is a reflection of a very profound feeling and connection that I have not only with materials but also what I am using them to represent. I try to showcase the beauty of the material. When I do, I also showcase the values that are important to me.” — Max McNett
Photos: Max McNett
McNett doesn’t have a commercial outlet for his work of passion—agate carving. Though you can find him on Instagram at @insta_snax. “A lot of times it’s less about conveying anything to anyone else as a personal form and practice of exploration and discovery. That’s kind of why I haven’t put a lot of effort into marketing myself as an artist quite yet,” he said. “I feel like much of the time I am forced to pin something down when it shouldn’t have to be pinned down. I saw where a lot of people would make something and then the explanation that came afterward for it tried to justify it as fine art. It’s why I haven’t put myself in any galleries. To me, the joy that I get from making these things, and bringing them back into nature is a feeling that’s really hard to put words to in the context of art. It doesn’t really fit the traditional notions of fine art. “I know that my artwork is a reflection of a very profound feeling and connection that I have not only with materials but also what I am using them to represent. I try to showcase the beauty of the material. When I do, I also showcase the values that are important to me,” he said. It’s patience, hard work, attention to detail and craftsmanship that he values. “Those things are important values beyond any meaning I can conjure up to explain my work with.” “He’s a driven artist and a gem of a human being,” shared Leggitt. The work of finding agates, which fill his windowsill in a great mound of shimmering amber, and carving them into the shape of a bug was an unconscious pairing of things he learned from his grandfather, who was an entomologist and a rockhound. “I realize now that my grandpa is gone how much of an impact he had and my family had on what really excites my curiosity. It’s funny I am coming around full circle to really explore those things again. I still couldn’t explain what it is about this material. I am so, so drawn to it more than any other type of rock. Agate is something I have this unexplainable love for.” How can a person describe something bigger than themselves?
McNett loves to transform agates into fine little works of art, which he often shares on Instagram.
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STARTUP 44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 46 MY WORKSPACE 48 GAME CHANGER 50
Bellingham’s Ragfinery combats textile waste while fostering community.
Ragfinery
pg. 46
startup
Locust Cider Keeps Expanding Its Empire Mission supplants fear to allow growth written by Corinne Whiting THIS ISN’T the first business endeavor of Locust Cider CEO and founder Jason Spears. In fact, he started a company at age 22—a small coffeehouse in Colorado Springs. The site became wellknown for live music, which vaulted Spears into his next business, a large restaurant, music venue and concert promotion company that hosted amazing artists from De La Soul and Maroon 5 to Ziggy Marley. “I was in WAY over my head,” he said, “made far more mistakes than good decisions, and got burned out.” Locust evolved when Spears realized he had a hops allergy and started looking for beer alternatives. One night he tried his friend’s cider and was hooked. “I especially dug the farmhouse French ciders like Dupont,” he said. He had been working unhappily for a company in Seattle, so he decided to create his own pathway out. “I signed a lease in 2015 before I had a clue how to make cider!” he shared. “I called my brother Patrick, who moved from Texas to Washington to start this with me, and we got to work.” They started small, expecting to be a simple, traditional cidermaker selling wholesale to stores and restaurants, with a small tasting room at their facility. They’ve since grown to encompass fifteen taprooms in three states, and sell wholesale in seven states. But their path wasn’t deliberate or expected. Spears’ daughter Lucy was born a month before they started working on the business. “She was born with hydrocephalus and craniosynostosis and spent a large part of our first year in the hospital,” he recalled. “I wanted to be with her. So that meant I needed more people to keep the 44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
business going. More employees require more money, more money means we need more sales. So the pressure was on, driven by the need to be with my family, to grow faster.” Today Spears deems Locust “a company of real people with a passion for cider.” Their dedication to their cause defines them, too, as they’ve donated more than $100,000 to the national Hydrocephalus Association in honor of, and to help, Lucy and others with the same condition. Their ciders, featuring flavors like blackberry, honey pear, chai and cold brew coffee, get described as “bold, in flavor or concept.” Spears said, “I believe success comes from doing what you are passionate about, very well. We want to stay true to ourselves as people. When we have failed, it’s because we strayed from that. When we succeed, it’s because we do what we love.” Spears admits that everything since 2020 has been surreal and tough. They opened most of their taprooms just before or during Covid-driven restaurant closure mandates. He and his wife had a long discussion about what bankruptcy would look like for their family. “We have clawed back on the shoulders of our amazing team,” he said. “It’s still hard.” The Locust community continues to amaze. Spears admits to having strong opinions about his company. “When I step back a bit, and just try to model our values, great people make great things happen,” he said. “We’ve built a great culture because of our people, and the more I stay out of the weeds, the better!” When asked what’s next, Spears prioritizes quality and teaching. “We are growing our traditional cider lineup, establishing new sources and orchards, and building a program to teach our customers more and more about the world of cider,” he said. They’ll also focus on better food in their taprooms; other “big and bold surprises” are brewing, too. Spears’s simple yet powerful advice to his younger entrepreneur self? “Don’t worry. We’ll be OK.”
Photos: Locust Cider
ABOVE Locust Cider fought through tough times to foster a growth story. AT RIGHT Locust Cider founder and CEO Jason Spears.
Experience the power of the North Cascades!
Join us for Diablo Lake morning and afternoon tours! Start your adventure at skagittours.com or call (360) 854-2589.
what i’m working on Ragfinery in Bellingham helps solve sustainability problems in the fashion sector.
From Rags to Riches Ragfinery is taking on textiles written by Lauren Kramer
THERE’S A FABULOUS little workshop in Bellingham where used textiles get a new life, keeping them out of the landfill. Ragfinery, a program of ReUse Works, sells thrifted clothing, hand-made upcycled items created by local artisans as well as fabric, yarn, quilting material, vintage patterns, sewing notions and sewing machines. The store has a well-equipped sewing workshop where customers can come in and mend their apparel. It also offers sewing classes and provides job training and skills development to low-income clients of its partner social service agencies and schools. 46
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A “creative reuse space,” Ragfinery processes 4,500 pounds of textiles each month, composed of community donations and items Bellingham consignment stores are unable to sell. The organization recently hit a milestone: one million pounds of textiles rescued from the landfill since its inception almost ten years ago. Half of the donations are kept, and anything that can’t be sold is picked up by the Northwest Center in Seattle. Every three months, Ragfinery hosts a popular upcycling event, like the factory remnant sale in May that featured offcuts from Underground Clothing. There’s also a community mending event every few months, where a sewing table is set up and free mending is offered to those who need it. As thrifting gains popularity, Rue Macdonald, program manager, said larger numbers of thrifted garments are moving through the store faster. “We’re in a college town, and there’s a lot more emphasis here on secondhand clothing and on the environmental impact of the retail industry,” she reflected. “Thrifting is becoming really cool with the younger generation, which is great because textile waste is still a big problem. But Ragfinery has found a way to create beautiful things and build community out of items that would otherwise be
Photos: Ragfinery
what i’m working on
FROM LEFT In addition to thrifted and upcycled goods, Ragfinery also offers workshops and a sewing workspace. Ragfinery staff member Hailey Cribbs sifts through garments.
wasted. It’s a shining light in the community and a place where creative people can gather, get inspired and try to fight climate change.” Ragfinery’s retail job training and skills development program helps up to six individuals a year work on their fine motor skills and customer service, giving them retail experience working with a point-of-sale system. Its workshops, funded by a public participation grant from the Washington State Department of Ecology, have included sashiko mending, no-sew braided rugs, weaving classes on gorgeous wooden looms, mending workshops and a three-part upcycle sewing class where participants are taught basic sewing skills. Weekly “community hours” allow up to ten people to come in and mend their garments or work
on a project, utilizing the sewing machines, mending supplies, rotary cutters and large workspaces. This is emphatically a resource for the community, a place where young and old can commune over the gentle art of sewing, learn new techniques and grow their skills in a warm, caring environment. “Usually people come in thinking sewing will be a lot harder than it actually is, but when they see how easy it is to make or fix something, they love it,” Macdonald says. “We are happy to offer access to sewing supplies and mending materials in our open community classroom hours,” she adds. “This space is a gift to the community that helps us think outside the box with things we already have and create a more sustainable, better environment.”
“We’re in a college town, and there’s a lot more emphasis here on secondhand clothing and on the environmental impact of the retail industry. Thrifting is becoming really cool with the younger generation, which is great because textile waste is still a big problem. But Ragfinery has found a way to create beautiful things and build community out of items that would otherwise be wasted.” — Rue Macdonald, Ragfinery program manager
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my workspace
Weird and Wacky Cody Thomas embraces creativity as a path to de-stressing written by Joni Kabana
After completing his bachelor’s degree in drawing and painting, Cody Thomas spent more than ten years working in retail, childcare and print shop jobs. His nagging desire to work in a creative field never waned, yet he struggled to find work in the art field that could provide a suitable income. After returning to school to get an associate’s degree in graphic design, Thomas landed on a perfect match of creative work and sustainable income.
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Photos and artwork: Cody Thomas
my workspace
Working remotely, he sets his own time, surrounds his desk with “weird personal oddities” and takes breaks with his wife and cats amid backyard plants. On a typical day, one can find him building a custom package for a company, designing a logo for a national video game competition, building a brochure for a nonprofit or compositing golf photos for a social media post. But his highly detailed, retro-inspired drawings that he refers to as his “anti-anxiety medication” is the art form that is his most personally expressive. He often refers to his work as being “spooky.” Monsters, scary beings and other players within his imagination all come to life as creatures and mythical figures showing up in classic movie posters and drawings. Thomas especially loves repetition and says this aspect of his art puts his mind at ease.
Thomas grew up with parents who were antique dealers who read to him from vintage books. He spends weekends perusing antique markets and shops where he finds inspiration in old packaging and old toys. He recently returned to film photography, he said, as a “casual and low-stress way of scratching the itch to create.” He said this medium is helpful during those times when he is experiencing burnout but wants to still be productive. Shooting with an old film camera with a limited number of frames forces him to pay more attention to composition.
Thomas recently experienced the death of a close friend, which reminded him that life can be fleeting and change abruptly. It was during this time that Thomas decided to return to school and pursue a creative work path. “Society sells success as something that’s achieved earlier in life,” he said. “As a person who really didn’t start my creative career until age 33, I’ve had to overcome that part of my brain that keeps telling me that I started too late, and fight through the imposter syndrome. I just have to remind myself that I got here somehow. That my peers and the people who hire me see my worth. I believe it’s important to allow yourself time to doodle, mess around, experiment and jot down ideas, even if they’re nonsensical. I often find nuggets of ideas that way. I’m always trying out new things, which means I always have to be open to failure.”
MORE ONLINE
See more of Cody Thomas’ work at www.codythomasdesign.com and @codythomasdesign on Instagram.
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game changer
Pink Lemonade Project will hold its seventeenth Girlfriends Run/Walk this fall.
Spoonfuls of Sugar Vancouver-based Pink Lemonade Project spreads hope, support and awareness around breast cancer written by Daniel O’Neil
WHEN LIFE brings lemons, make lemonade. Each year in the United States, more than a quarter of a million women will be diagnosed with breast cancer. Fortunately for women in southwest Washington, the Pink Lemonade Project provides some relief. 50
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Photos: Pink Lemonade Project
game changer
Pink Lemonade Project events such as the Pink Glow Gala help raise funds while spreading awareness.
From education and prevention to assistance and solidarity, the Vancouver-based nonprofit covers the entire cancer continuum. Founded in 2010 by a pair of doctors, Pink Lemonade Project has grown from offering retreats for cancer patients to a bigger, more inclusive role. Today the group remains devoted to helping women and men with breast cancer, but has also added outreach and all-important mammogram screenings to their mission, especially in underserved communities. The last three years have boosted the work of Pink Lemonade Project. In 2021, the nation’s largest breast cancer foundation, Susan G. Komen, closed all of its affiliates nationwide. This left Washington and Oregon in a precarious position, especially because Covid-19 halted many of the programs that hospitals had provided. Fortunately, Komen approached Pink Lemonade Project and care continued uninterrupted. “We essentially took on more work without enough staff and without enough money,” said Susan Stearns, CEO of Pink Lemonade Project and the first breast cancer survivor on its staff. “But we said we were going to give our all and try to make it work. We’ve now tripled the size of our organization, and rather than having a huge gap because Komen is gone, Pink Lemonade Project has actually been exploding in growth to fill that gap and meet more needs.” In 2020, Pink Lemonade Project helped 1,108 women in six southwest Washington counties and across Oregon. In 2022, that number rose to 2,572. The group gained staff and is now looking at its first million-dollar budget. Besides its previous offerings, which include peer mentors for women beginning treatment and support groups for women living with breast cancer, Pink Lemonade Project inherited two key programs from Komen. The Treatment Access Program provides financial assistance for people who must travel for care, and the quarterly Metastatic Breast Cancer Dinner series brings guest speakers with expertise
in all things related to metastatic breast cancer, from new treatments to mental health and nutrition. Working with local partners and sponsors, Pink Lemonade Project carries out various fundraising events throughout the year. Due to the indiscriminate nature of breast cancer and the disparities of the healthcare system, Pink Lemonade Project works closely with rural and underrepresented communities. A strong alliance with the Cowlitz Indian Tribe ensures mammograms and patient support for Tribal women, as well as funding for programs like the Treatment Access Program. Educational materials in seven languages and a monthly support group in Spanish now extend the group’s reach. Lucy Beltran, a breast cancer survivor, looked for support groups in Spanish when she was diagnosed. None existed, so she contacted Pink Lemonade Project. “It was a gift to find Pink Lemonade Project because they opened all the resources for me,” Beltran said. “And when I asked if we could open that to more people in my community, they were happy to do that.” Beltran is now a board member and one of the facilitation leads for the Spanish-speaking support group. Pink Lemonade Project’s staff and board members know breast cancer personally. They are living with it, or have survived it, or have loved ones affected by it. “This is not something we take lightly,” said Sonja Trytko, who is living with metastatic breast cancer and is chair of Pink Lemonade Project’s executive board. “It is personal to all of us. Our determination to serve the community is top of mind for every decision we make in every new program we roll out. And I think that’s really what helps set us apart. We’ve all been there, so we’re meeting people where they’re at in their journey.” MORE ONLINE
To donate or for information on upcoming events like the Girlfriends Run/Walk, on October 8, visit www.pinklemonadeproject.org.
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e k Ta a
P I D y Ellen
b written
Hiatt
Bainbridge Island’s Dock Street Road End—an off-putting name, but a nice little sandy beach with good sunset watching. (photo: Eva Seelye)
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d i es o b e v Fi ter o f wa n to pi to j u m ot this H er summ
Hot summer days came early to the Pacific Northwest, and we’re thirsting more than ever to find the perfect swimming hole to cool our bodies and cheer our spirits. As luck would have it, there are some lesser-known spots across Washington that offer just the full-body refreshment you seek. From Deception Pass to the forests of Colville nearer Idaho, there are thousands of lakes, streams and bays to choose from.
FROM TOP A dock at Cornet Bay Marina. The pebble beach on Cornet Bay is a good place for a swim. (photos: Embrace Whidbey and Camano Islands)
Whidbey Island
Cornet Bay
1
We’re going to start you off with a little salt water, because there is nothing more emblematic of Puget Sound than the seemingly infinite waters of the Salish Sea sparkling like an expanse of jewels, its inlets and islands offering up riches. On a hot day, the shallow shores of Cornet Bay are typically visited mainly by the locals and boaters who find shelter in the small marina. The better-known beaches of Deception Pass State Park, Washington state’s most-visited park, offer up inspiration to international and regional visitors alike. There is so much to grab their attention, few wander off the spectacular paths around Deception to find
Cornet Bay. That is to your benefit. This sweet little bay with its pebble shores is the perfect place for a saltwater dip, and even an open swim to Ben Ure Island. (Go with a friend in a small craft for your safety.) While the changing tides swirl dangerously fast under the picturesque Deception Pass Bridge, and the winds can blow past the San Juans and over the western shores of Whidbey, Cornet Bay is in the enviable position of protection. Its waters are typically placid, and Strawberry and Ben Ure islands in the near distance provide a break from nature’s forces. Because the bay is shallow, small craft move slowly through the area, and most head straight to the marina nearby, leaving the bay free for you to explore. Bring a state-issued Discover Pass for parking and enjoy the best of Washington state.
lit tle le t e e w b T h i s s i t h i ts p e b c t bay w the perfe s is s h o r e a c e fo r a pl d i p. r e t a saltw
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2
Bainbridge Island
Dock Street Road End While you’re on the wet side of the state, there’s one more saltwater discovery for you. Unlike the shores of Whidbey, which are typically rocky, there is a fine, sandy beach on Bainbridge Island. You know how the best restaurants are in that hole-in-the-wall location—the goods are there, but they don’t have a great storefront? Well that’s the case with Bainbridge Island’s Dock Street Road End, a dull name for a sandy beach with a beautiful view of Liberty Bay and the Olympic Range. Hop a ferry from Seattle to Bainbridge and, after roughly half an hour of the quintessential Pacific 54
Northwest experience, you’re on Bainbridge Island. Scoot north for eleven minutes to the Manzanita enclave, and you will have arrived at a lovely and quiet neighborhood. The dead end of Dock Street looks uninviting with concrete blocks in your path, but if you can find a parking spot, you’ll likely find yourself at one of the most peaceful places just a hop skip and a jump away from a major city. Don’t leave too soon after your swim. This little beach is on the west side of this blessed piece of land, so it’s a great place to watch a sunset and contemplate life.
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ABOVE, FROM TOP While the beach at Dock Street Road End may disappear in the tide, it still is a pleasant spot for a swim. The Dock Street Road End entrance and beach. (photos: Eva Seelye)
Skykomish
Troublesome Creek
3
Let’s head into the mountains! Tucked between the Wild Sky and the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness areas, Troublesome Creek Campground is perched above a slow gurgling creek feeding the North Fork of the Skykomish River. In fact, you’ll likely want to put your troubles aside once you pull into a campsite and stake your place on its shores. About 20 miles north and twice the number of minutes from the tiny town of Skykomish in the Central Cascades, the creek and its campground are the perfect place to get away from everything and enjoy some time to yourself and a few friends to cool off on a hot day. Enjoy your excursion to its fullest and follow the mile-long nature trail along the creek, or go for a leisurely
For Your Safety
drive on Index Galena Road, and follow the Skykomish River to Index, where folks know how to get the most of the Central Cascades’ rugged outdoors, from rock climbing on Index Wall to white water rafting the Class IV rapids. If the nature trail remains closed for wildfire threats during your visit, consider finding a swimming hole nearer Galena, where a bridge crosses the Skykomish, or at nearby San Juan campground. As with all creeks and rivers, the conditions vary depending on the amount of water running from rain and snowmelt, and by the snags created by fallen trees and branches, changing the water’s flow. A slow eddy can give way just 10 feet from shore to a faster current. Be cautious, as always, and look for one of the calmer swimming holes. Your patience will be rewarded!
Take some critical safety measures and check out these resources:
Check trail conditions here: www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/ trails-and-backcountry-campconditions.htm
Summer wildfires are a reality in our forests. Know before you go. Fire, Weather & Avalanche Center has a live map of current fire conditions: www.fireweather avalanche.org/fire/state/ washington
Pack the ten essentials if you’re going on any hike, even a short one. Check out the Washington Trails Association essentials guide for what to pack: www.wta.org/go-outside/ trail-smarts/ten-essentials
The Red Cross has supplied some safety tips for swimming in rivers and lakes: www.redcross. org/get-help/how-to-prepare-foremergencies/types-of-emergencies/ water-safety/lake-river-safety.html
Just above the North Fork of the Skykomish River, Troublesome Creek is a perfect place to cool off with your dogs on a hot day. (photo: Joe Roselli)
The Washington Trails Association has some helpful advice on determining what, if any, pass you may need for wherever you go to dip a toe or take a swim: www.wta.org/go-outside/passes/ what-pass-do-i-need-faq
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e k a L n g to n i n ing n h t Be y r e has ev hiking, d: e e n ing l u d d yo a g, p n i h s i f e rs . t a w r a e l ke! c a l & a p in m u j So go
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5 Walla Walla
Bennington Lake
4
With summer temps boiling over that 100-degree mark in Eastern Washington, if you’re traveling through you may have a quick dip in a cool lake in mind. Bennington Lake has everything you need: hiking, fishing, paddling and clear waters. So go jump in a lake! White you’re resting on the shore, take in the views of the mesmerizing Blue Mountains, a mountain range with stories to tell. The range is the largest ecoregion in Oregon, stretching into Washington state via Walla Walla. It is also home to the world’s largest living organism—a subterranean fungus species thought to be 2,000 years old and stretching nearly 2,400 acres! All you’ll see is the basalt rock formations and the blue hue granted by the pine- and firlined ridges. This range is a geological and biodiversity wonder. Ponder that while you warm up under the sun of the Eastern Washington sky. Bennington Lake is actually a reservoir—50 acres of it—with great access. While fishing is year round, gas engines aren’t allowed, making your swimming prospects peaceful and clean, indeed.
Lake Ellen in northeast Washington is 75 acres of beauty and relaxation. (photo: Aaron Theisen)
Colville National Forest
Lake Ellen
This author admits to some vanity in choosing to feature Lake Ellen. But it’s not without generous reasons, either. This is a lake to be shared. At 2,300 feet in elevation, tucked into the Colville National Forest, the lake is 75 acres of pure joy. The rocky outcrops loom large over its expanse, and the forest provides a warm hug. Relax. It’s Lake Ellen. The namesake campgrounds on opposite shores are small, and few
people venture this far into the forest. If you do, you’ll be rewarded with nothing but peace. Travel the single-lane gravel road to the public access, complete with a primitive boat launch and a dock, and set up a blanket and your picnic. There is plenty of wildlife to view (watch out for rattlesnakes!), but look for loons, beavers and more. If you didn’t bring a boat, you can fish from shore. It’s stocked aplenty, as the eagles and osprey attest to with every targeted dive into the waters. The remote Lake Ellen is served by a single-lane gravel road and has a primitive boat launch. (photo: Aaron Theisen)
AT LEFT Just 5 miles east of Walla Walla, Bennington Lake is a 50-acre respite. ABOVE Hiking trails border Bennington Lake. (photos: Sara Todorovich/Visit Walla Walla)
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CULTURAL ATTRACTION Universities in the Pacific Northwest
are building Native American structures to create an overdue welcome for students written by Lauren Kramer
A rendering shows Western Washington University’s planned House of Healing longhouse. (photo: Western Washington University)
A
s students at Western Washington University wrapped up another year of studies this summer, plans were underway for the construction of the House of Healing. The $5 million longhouse, whose completion is scheduled for the second quarter of 2025, is intended to be a gathering and ceremonial space to promote cultural exchange and understanding. The university’s administration hopes the longhouse will increase the rate of Indigenous enrollment by at least 10 percent. To date there are 360 students on campus who identify as Native American or Alaskan Native, representing 2.4 percent of the student population. Their numbers have been steady since 2011, when they constituted 2.3 percent. For the Indigenousidentifying students currently enrolled, the longhouse amounts to a spend of $13,888 each. The longhouse, in discussion for more than thirty years, has been a long time coming, said Laural Ballew, WWU’s tribal relations manager. Her position was created in 2019 to advocate for Indigenous students, faculty and staff, liaise between them and the university administration and increase enrollment of Indigenous students. “The university is on Lummi territory, so I feel there’s an obligation to build it,” she said. “The longhouse will put action behind the words of land acknowledgement, give back to the Native communities and provide an important sense of place and support for our students. You have to understand that when a Native student leaves their community to come to a white institution, it can be daunting and intimidating.”
Ballew speaks from personal experience. She began studying at the college in 1975 and remembers feeling isolated as a Native student. As she works on her doctoral degree today, she recalls how determined her parents were that she and her siblings attend college. When she became a parent, she immediately started saving for her sons’ college tuition and is proud that one recently graduated with a degree in psychology. But in the Lummi Tribe, her parents’ encouragement of higher education was and still is more of an anomaly. “There’s this feeling in high school that not as much is expected from Native American students, so they tend not to have that belief and self-confidence that they can succeed academically,” she said. “And many don’t have parents pushing them, or a cheerleader in their corner, nor do they have enough role models in the community of tribe members who graduated college.” That’s a legacy of the residential school system, she said, referring to how Native American students were taken to boarding schools far from their communities between 1819 and 1969, when fifteen residential schools were operating statewide. “Both my grandmothers were in boarding school, and my parents inherited that trauma and covered it up with alcohol,” she recalled. “Alcoholism was rampant in my community. I think that’s why my family pushed for higher education—they felt it was a way out of the cycle.” Today Ballew encourages Native American students at WWU to visit the Lummi middle and high schools and bring graduating high schoolers to campus so they can take a tour and see the possibilities for their future. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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“Having the longhouse here, and giving Indigenous high schoolers a chance to see our powwow and meet other Indigenous students will allow them to see themselves here in the future,” she said. “To date, this is the only higher educational institution on the I-5 corridor that doesn’t yet have a longhouse.”
O
Kaku-Ixt Mana Ina Haws on the Oregon State University campus. (photo: Michelle Klampe/Oregon State University)
regon State University built its Native American longhouse, Kaku-Ixt Mana Ina Haws, in the 1970s and replaced it with a new one in 2013. Enrollment and demographic reports from OSU suggest its undergraduate enrollment of Native students has increased by 20 percent to 1,202 students in 2022 from fall 2013, when OSU had 997 Native students enrolled. In general, data about the number of Indigenous students at college can be misleading, cautioned Scott Vignos, chief diversity officer at OSU’s Office of Institutional Diversity. “The way students identify is often much more complex than the data allows us to represent. Any time a student checks more than one box for race and ethnicity, their numbers are not reflected in the Native American enrollment data,” he explained. “We believe the 20 percent increase is evidence of the positive impact of the programs we’ve created, like the Ecampus and tuition policies.” In 2017, OSU created a Tribal Communities Initiative as a partnership between OSU’s Ecampus (its online degree program) and the Office of Institutional Diversity. “We know that for tribal communities one of the barriers to higher education is being place-bound by obligations in their communities or family members they need to take care of,” Vignos said. “Having the option to pursue a high-quality degree online, with advisers that understand the unique dimensions of living in a tribal community, makes this a very attractive option.” Every Native student who enrolls in Ecampus is matched with a dedicated success coach who meets with them regularly, sets goals, explores work-life balance and helps them navigate challenges. There are 330 tribal students enrolled to date, and both enrollment and graduation numbers are growing each year. Another barrier has been the cost of higher education in public institutions, which, Vignos said, is higher in Oregon than in its neighboring states. The Oregon Tribal Student Grant, a $19 million fund allocation created in 2022 by the Oregon Legislature, covers the full cost of education for any student who is enrolled in an Oregon tribe. OSU has more students enrolled in the grant than any other Oregon state institution, but the grant doesn’t help Indigenous students from tribes outside of the state. The longhouse is one of seven cultural resource centers at OSU, all of which serve a crucial role, Vignos said. “They create spaces in a predominantly white institution where AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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“Think of this from an equity concept: We have students who are sixth in their generation to go to college and have great access to networks and family support. Now think about what it means for someone to be the first in their family to go to college because of legacies of settler-colonialism. It makes it even more imperative that as a land grant, values-driven institution we think about what it takes to provide equitable access to an institution.” — Scott Vignos, chief diversity officer at Oregon State University’s Office of Institutional Diversity
students can explore and refine their identities. That’s important because higher education has long been tailored to a particular kind of student. In recent years, we’re paying careful attention to the unique perspectives of students from minoritized backgrounds. They bring incredible wisdom and perspective to higher education, but we have to adapt our culture and programs so we can be ready for them.” Oregon State University also has a new living-learning community, munk-skukum, a residential space where Indigenous, Native American and Pacific Islander students can explore their cultural identity and find connections, campus resources and support. Vignos said this community has a waiting list and is a space the university hopes to expand. Reflecting on the enrollment data, he cautioned that for generations, data has been used to tell the stories people want to tell. It allows the story to be framed thus: If there are so few minoritized students, why are we giving them so much attention and resources? “We do this because we have an obligation as a land grant institution,” Vignos said unequivocally. “It’s part of who we are, and it’s aligned with our values and mission—to serve all of Oregon’s students, not just some of them.” “Think of this from an equity concept: We have students who are sixth in their generation to go to college and have great access to networks and family support. Now think about what it means for someone to be the first in their family to go to college because of legacies of settler-colonialism. It makes it even more imperative that as a land grant, valuesdriven institution we think about what it takes to provide equitable access to an institution.” The July 2023 Supreme Court decision to ban affirmative action on college campuses will likely affect Native American students’ access to higher education says Nolan Cabrera, a University of Arizona professor who specializes in racial dynamics on college campuses. “Because Indigenous tribes are federally recognized, they fall beyond the realm of an affirmative action ban, so technically the ban should not adversely affect their access to higher education. But in reality, it probably will,” he says. “A lot of leaders in higher education don’t understand the distinction between racialized groups and federally recognized tribes. So the affirmative action ban will likely have a chilling effect that will result in less recruitment of Indigenous students to university campuses, even though institutional leaders have a lot of leeway to continue with their recruitment of these students.”
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She described feeling lost when she first came to the university. “Where I come from there are many Native folks, but arriving at Western Washington, which is predominantly white, was a culture shock,” she reflected. “Being a Native American student on campus felt strange—you feel so small compared to the greater community. It wasn’t until I got into NASU that I found other Native students, faculty and staff on campus, and began to feel a greater sense of belonging.” Werlito is excited for the changes coming to campus with the construction of the House of Healing. “The Native community on campus will finally have a hub, a home base to really cultivate themselves as they enter higher education and begin their academic journey,” she said. As Ballew considers the goal of 10 percent enrollment increase of Indigenous students, she said it’s definitely realistic. She sat in her office and thought of herself as a high school graduate in the early 1970s, looking from across the bay at Western Washington. “It was this white institution sitting up on a hill, and I would think to myself, anyone that could be studying or working there has really made it!” she recalled. “When I came to this position in 2019, I was so honored to be accepted, but at the same time, I thought the longhouse would be ten to fifteen years out. Instead, we’re breaking ground next year. Who thought that would be possible? So, why not look at a 10 percent increase in enrollment? After everything I’ve seen, I believe in dreaming big!” The annual Salmon Bake at KakuIxt Mana Ina Haws at Oregon State University. (photo: Theresa Hogue/Oregon State University)
t Western Washington University, the longhouse will arrive too late for Kimberly Werlito, 24. The Navajo student from New Mexico graduated in March 2023 with a bachelor’s degree in English literature and is a co-chair of the Native American Student Union (NASU) on campus. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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Blues | Nathan Myhrvold/Modernist Cuisine Gallery, LLC
MY H R V O L D ’ S PA L E T T E O F F OO D written by Kerry Newberry FOR THOSE who are captivated by the wonder and whimsy of all things food, there’s nothing that rivals the cutting-edge photography of Nathan Myhrvold. The founder of Modernist Cuisine and lead author of the Modernist Cuisine book series, Myhrvold’s storied career spans from working as the chief technology officer of Microsoft to postdoctoral cosmology studies with Stephen Hawking. Since 2011, he’s turned his lifelong fascination for photography, cooking and food science into a groundbreaking collection that includes internationally renowned books, a traveling art exhibit and three art galleries. His creative studio houses microscopes, custom-made robotics and one-of-a-kind camera systems that he and his team use to transform ordinary food and drink into buoyant and beautiful scenes that bring the imagination to life. You can visit his only Pacific Northwest gallery in Seattle, located near the historic Pike Place Market and Seattle Art Museum at 1403 1st Avenue. For more information and to explore his delightfully inventive work online, visit www.modernistcuisinegallery.com.
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Neapolitan Man | Nathan Myhrvold/Modernist Cuisine Gallery, LLC AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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The All-American | Nathan Myhrvold/Modernist Cuisine Gallery, LLC
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Green Waves of Grain | Nathan Myhrvold/Modernist Cuisine Gallery, LLC
Morning Clouds | Nathan Myhrvold/Modernist Cuisine Gallery, LLC AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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ADVENTURE 72 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 83
pg. 72 Add some adrenaline to your family vacation—try a white water rafting trip on one of these scenic Washington rivers.
Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 70
ESCAPE TO BAINBRIDGE ISLAND
Stroll groomed trails through 140 acres of forests, meadows, and sculpted gardens with spectacular views of Puget Sound. Discover a new side of yourself in nature.
Bainbridge Timed tickets Islandare | Open required Tuesday–Sunday for admission | | Open Timed Tuesday–Sunday, tickets are required rainfor oradmission shine | bloedelreserve.org | bloedelreserve.org
Travel Spotlight
Three Fingers Lookout
One of the last gabled lookouts in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
One of the last of its kind, the gabled-roof Three Fingers Lookout is also a challenge to get to.
WOULD YOU dare? Even the most adventurous of us would raise an eyebrow at the thought of hiking to Three Fingers Lookout. Not only is the hike to get there one of the most strenuous stretches, the hike also has a 4,000-foot vertical gain. And don’t forget to haul mountain climbing equipment: you’ll need it for the last half mile of the trail. Once you arrive at the base of the lookout station on the south peak, you’ll need to climb vertical ladders to enter it. That is, if weather permits in this high exposure location. Three Fingers Lookout was built between 1930 and 1932 by United States Forest Servicemen Harold Engles and Fred Benesh and it is one of the oldest intact observation posts in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. To create a level foundation, fifteen feet was blasted from the location peak. Horses and mules brought tools and building materials within 600 feet of the summit, then ladders and ropes secured a tram system to carry items to the work site. A telephone line was strung up from the Boulder River Valley below to enable communications. The tower is open to visitors and has unparalleled panoramic views of soaring mountains, plunging valleys and sunrises and sunsets that will assuredly make the trip worth the effort and the risk. While conditions can change swiftly, most people make this journey sometime during late spring to mid-fall to avoid excessive snow and ice. As early as the 1900s, fire lookout towers were built in the United States as a means to spot and prevent forest fires. In the 1920s and 1930s, the United States Forest Service built lookout towers with 360-degree views, such as the Three Fingers Lookout. Most of these towers became short-term homes for a single person who would stay in the tower for extended periods of time, monitoring for any fire sightings. Three Fingers is one of only two gable roof lookouts (known as Grange Halls) that still exist in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. To reach the trailhead, drive from the Verlot Public Service Center (11 miles east of Granite Falls), travel west on the Mt. Loop Highway for 3.9 miles. Turn right (north) on the Tupso Pass Road (Forest Service road 41) and follow this road for 18 miles to the trailhead. The road to the trailhead is an unpaved forest service road that is quite rough so choose your vehicle with this in mind. So you’ve given it your all and made it to the lookout tower and now would like to get a nice night’s sleep before descending back down. The lookout building is available on a first-come, first-served basis, so start your hike extremely early. Three or four people can sleep on the floor, and another two can fit on a newly installed sleeping loft. There are no other camping sites in the vicinity. Bringing your own camping gear is a must, including all cooking supplies. A canvas Adirondack chair, built by one of the original forest servicemen, Harold Weiss, still remains at the summit today. The tower is a shelter only, but it will serve a sunny-side-up incredible sense of wonder.
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Ethan Welty/TandemStock.com
written by Joni Kabana
B A I N B R I D G E I S L A N D , WA
Boutiques, berries, beers, beaches, books, boats, bivalves, birds, backpacking, and of course, B+B’s.
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TH ER E ’ S AL WAYS TH E N E X T B OAT.
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adventure
White Water Rafting Trips Fit for the Family Make memories together—three Washington rivers for the family float written by Jen Sotolongo LOOKING FOR a thrilling all-day outdoor escapade that will delight the entire family? Consider a white water rafting trip on one of the state’s exhilarating river destinations. The Skagit, Methow and Wenatchee rivers each offer a compelling blend of adrenaline-pumping rapids and awe-inspiring scenery in mountain settings. These family-friendly waterways promise an unforgettable journey through pristine wilderness settings featuring a backdrop of the gorgeous Cascade mountains. A day on the river provides a wonderful opportunity for families to immerse themselves in nature and disconnect from the distractions of everyday life. The absence of cellphone reception 72 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Methow Rafting
Rafting the Methow River in the North Cascades is a wet thrill.
along most stretches of the river allows families to spend undistracted time together and create lasting memories. The featured destinations are located between two and threeand-a-half hours from Seattle, allowing for one very long day, or a valid excuse to get away and into nature for the weekend.
Skagit River With its proximity to Seattle, the Skagit River makes for a convenient day trip for busy families. Lush forests, towering mountains and turquoise waters create a breathtaking backdrop as families navigate the river’s twists and turns as a team. Suitable for those with young children and those who are new to white water rafting, rapids on the Skagit range between Class II and Class III. The calm stretches provide ample opportunities for relaxation and enjoying the scenery, while the rapids offer exciting moments that add a burst of adrenaline to the journey. Triad River Tours and Alpine Adventures both offer day trips that start from the Goodell Creek Boat Launch in Newhalem and run from June to September. Children who weigh more than 50 pounds are welcome to join the adventure.
adventure
Families seeking a longer getaway should consider a rafting trip in the idyllic Methow Valley. This scenic wonderland is a special part of the state with rugged mountains, charming towns and diverse wildlife. The Methow River features a mix of rapids, ranging from Class II to Class IV. These rapids provide an exciting-yet-manageable challenge for families with varying levels of rafting experience. The Class II rapids offer fun and splashy sections, perfect for families with younger children or those new to rafting. Meanwhile, the Class III rapids tack on an extra level of excitement, keeping older kids and more adventurous family members entertained. Methow Rafting offers several trips, ranging from gentle floats to more challenging day trips. The Lower Methow HalfDay is a mellow float that includes a few small rapids that serve as a great introduction to a river experience. The more demanding Black Canyon trip features Class III and IV rapids that bring a nice mix of crashing waves and tranquil pools for swimming. Trips run from March to August.
Mike Curtis, Riverbooty Photography/Blue Sky Outfitters
Methow River
Dustin Basalla/alpineadventures.com
With its proximity to Seattle, the Skagit River makes for a convenient day trip for busy families. Lush forests, towering mountains and turquoise waters create a breathtaking backdrop as families navigate the river’s twists and turns as a team.
Wenatchee River Known for being a “forgiving” river, the Wenatchee is a great pick for just about any age or skill level. As you navigate the waters between Leavenworth and Cashmere, you’ll notice the stark change in the environment as the thick forests turn into more arid, desert-like landscapes. Rapid classes on the Wenatchee range between Class II and Class III, ensuring that families of different skill levels can find suitable sections to match their comfort level and desired level of excitement. Alpine Adventures and Blue Sky Outfitters offer trips on the Wenatchee, and the season typically runs from April through August. Children ages eight and older are welcome to join.
ABOVE, FROM TOP Big views on the Skagit River and Alpine Adventures river trips. Serious fun on the Wenatchee is set among serious beauty of the canyon.
What makes the Wenatchee River ideal for a family white water rafting experience is not only the exciting rapids but also the stunning beauty of the surrounding region. The towering peaks of the iconic Enchantments; lush, verdant forests; and crystalclear waters offer magnificent scenery. The region is also known for its abundant wildlife, including bald eagles, ospreys, deer and the occasional black bear. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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Bubbly or Still Water?
Summer Paddling Adventures on the Clackamas River This summer, try something different. Go the opposite direction of the crowds and find a new paddling adventure along the Clackamas River in Oregon. The 87-mile Clackamas flows out of the Mount Hood National Forest and northwest toward Estacada and on past Clackamas where it eventually feeds into the Willamette River. But along the miles of beautiful and rustic river through Mt. Hood Territory, the Clackamas floats all boats when it comes to summer recreation.
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WHY GO WITH A GUIDE? Certified guides can enhance your visit by offering safe and memorable experiences, providing local insights and even sharing a few insider secrets. Here are some reasons to book a river trip with a guide:
SAFE AND FUN
You needn’t go all the way to the Rogue River for a thrilling whitewater adventure. A familyfriendly whitewater paddle takes you down the scenic river canyon, through class III and IV rapids under a canopy of Douglas fir and through blue pools on the Upper Clackamas River. Do it as a family in a raft or take a guided kayak tour for yet more adventure. If you like your water not bubbly but still, put in at Estacada with a paddleboard, kayak, canoe or your own watercraft. Find the flat water at Estacada Lake, a dammed section of the Clackamas where the hydroelectric power station was designed in 1911 by Norwegian immigrant Nils Ambursen and is now on the National Register of Historic Places. Clackamas River Outfitters, which has a shop in Estacada as well as rental spots in Timber Park and Milo McIver State Park, will rent the gear you need and provide kayak, canoe or paddleboard tours of the treelined lake as the occasional osprey swoops down from towering pines across the lake scanning for coho and trout and pulling back up to take perch on the opposite bank.
One of the put-in points at Milo McIver State Park is also home to one of the world’s top disc courses. The 27-hole Milo McIver Disc Course, which plays through the same evergreen forests that line the Clackamas, was originally laid out as a nine-hole golf course some time before it became a state park in 1968. Now the holes are shorter and the fee is only $5. Need gear? Clackamas River Outfitters also sells disc golf equipment. After exploring the Clackamas River, head into nearby Estacada for great restaurants, local craft breweries and charming downtown shops.
Clackamas River Rental and Guides Clackamas River Outfitters clackamasriveroutfitters.com Blue Sky Whitewater Rafting blueskyrafting.com Oregon River Experiences oregonriver.com/clackamasriver-rafting
TO EXPLORE MORE, VISIT:
mthoodterritory.com/ clackamas-river
Certified tour guides and outfitters keep the safety and security of their guests top of mind. They cover all safety concerns, from ensuring visitors have the correct gear to teaching guests how to perform activities safely. Learning proper techniques will make your outing as enjoyable as possible and might even give you the confidence to start a new hobby! Guides must also register their river excursions through the Oregon State Marine Board or the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife to ensure they have proper first aid training, CPR training and other safety protocols.
EXPERT PLANNING Local guides and tour operators know the ins and outs of planning trips in Mt. Hood Territory. This includes all the important (and sometimes forgotten) details like permits, gear rentals and parking fees. You’re on vacation, so take the stress out of your trip and let them take care of everything.
HISTORICAL KNOWLEDGE Sure, you can read about the area’s history in a book or online, but a better way is to experience that history first-hand. Guided tours offer information and insights during outings, including visiting specific locations of historical and cultural importance and, in some cases, even sharing entertaining tales, like ghost stories, that happened at the destination.
LOCAL INSIGHTS A guide brings you a much more authentic sense of the destination. Many have called the area home and can tell you interesting details about the flora and fauna you’ll see on your tour. Your guide is also often the person who can give you top tips on where to grab a meal, special events happening, other must-visit spots and the best shops in town to find that perfect souvenir.
Photos: The Lodge at Columbia Point
lodging
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Lodge at Columbia Point is the perfect base for exploring the Tri-Cities area. Wine and dine at Drumheller’s, the on-site restaurant. Cozy up with an in-room fireplace. Relax by the water, or take a complimentary loaner bike for a spin.
The Lodge at Columbia Point written by Cara Strickland IF IT’S BEEN a while since you’ve made your way to Richland, one of the Tri-Cities, you might have missed the opening of this delightful 4-star hotel, the perfect spot to be your home base for winery visits, outdoor adventures and exploration of the vast STEM resources of the area. There’s also enough going on to make it worth the trip all by itself, and the view of the water continues to impress, no matter how long you look. 530 COLUMBIA POINT DRIVE RICHLAND www.lodgeatcolumbiapoint.com
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ACCOMMODATIONS Although there are some room options, each guest room features a fireplace; large TV; and a mini kitchenette with a fridge, microwave and coffee maker, perfect for creating a home away from home. The beds are inviting, and the details are thoughtful—from the toiletries to the pillow options. Something to note: Most rooms are equipped with showers, but there are rooms with baths— so be sure to ask if you have a preference. Want to bring your furry friends along? Ask about pet-friendly rooms.
DINING Enjoy on-site dining your way with delicious options ranging from room service to all-day dining in the main restaurant, as well as a wellstocked cozy bar featuring both cocktails and a range of wines from partner wineries, showcasing the best of the region. Enjoy wine tasting events, and should you need something catered, they have your back there, too. The chef is always refining the menu to make sure each dish is just right, which has resulted in a solid, thoughtful and balanced selection, regardless of your mood.
AMENITIES Take a ride on a complimentary Lodge bike and travel the trail that runs along the water. Schedule a massage (you’ll want to do it in advance, as the spa services fill quickly), take a dip in the open-air swimming pool and spa, keep yourself moving in the fitness center, or relax with a book in the lending library (take it back to your room, or to another cozy nook for added comfort).
Discover breathtaking landscapes, vibrant foliage, and endless adventure. Make Union Creek your
Framed by Nature
The Splendor of Fall at Crater Lake
basecamp and immerse yourself in nature's wonders.
www.unioncreekoregon.com
trip planner
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trip planner
Leavenworth It’s time to return to (local) Bavaria in later summer and early fall written by Ryn Pfeuffer IF YOU WANT a taste of German culture in the United States, head to this Bavarian-themed town on the eastern slopes of the Cascade Mountains. Leavenworth is famous for its colorful buildings, decorative flowers and charming storefronts that transport you to a German or Austrian village. It’s just more than two hours from Seattle and three from Spokane. During late summer and early fall, the landscape transforms into a vibrant display of autumn colors. People come from all over to enjoy many outdoor activities that are particularly enjoyable during this time of the year. You can go hiking in the nearby Alpine Lakes Wilderness, explore the Enchantment Lakes area or take a scenic float trip down the Wenatchee River. Weather in Leavenworth during late summer and early fall is generally pleasant. Temperatures are mild, with cooler mornings and evenings, making it comfortable to get out and about and explore all this charming enclave offers. Here’s how to make the most of it:
Day
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
TAKING IT EASY • ITALIAN FOOD If you’re traveling with an RV, stay at Thousand Trails Leavenworth, located 18 miles north of town. Surrounded by 300 acres of towering trees, this well-maintained RV park sits smack dab amid fall grandeur. The campground is close to the picturesque Icicle Creek, which offers hiking, fishing and picnicking. You can explore the Icicle Gorge Trail, enjoy the scenic drive along the Icicle Creek Road or simply unwind from your day by the water. If you prefer something swankier, book a room at the adults-only Posthotel. With AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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Icicle TV
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Lake Wenatchee offers many options, from strolling its banks to kayaking and paddleboarding. The Wenatchee River takes it up a notch with white water rafting. Leavenworth’s München Haus is a bastion of German cuisine and a bier garten.
fireplaces, oversized soaking tubs and balconies facing the creek, it’s undoubtedly one of the most romantic stays in Washington. Posthotel truly feels like a luxe European getaway. Continue the romantic vibe over dinner at Sulla Vita. The thoughtfully crafted menu features a perfect balance of traditional Italian favorites and innovative creations. Start with mushrooms stuffed with chorizo and sharp white cheddar. Indulge in a pile of perfectly al dente pasta, generously adorned with shrimp in a creamy alfredo sauce for a main course. After dinner, stroll on one of Leavenworth’s best-kept secrets— Waterfront Park Trail. Located behind the Posthotel, the paved trail winds three easy miles along the Wenatchee River through small beach inlets and riverbank forests. In the fall, watch for salmon battling their way upstream to spawn. The scenic path is dotted with benches to sit, relax and listen to the gentle sound of the flowing river. There are also grassy areas where you can unwind and enjoy the surroundings. 80 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Day ON THE WATER • TRAILS • BRATS + BREWS Grab a chai latte or pour-over coffee to-go at J5 Coffee—its hip and breezy flagship espresso bar is right on 9th Street. J5 Coffee roasts its beans in-house in small batches. The owner, Jesse Wilkinson, is often seen pulling espresso shots for customers. The Wenatchee River runs through Leavenworth, providing excellent white water river rafting and tubing opportunities. Osprey Rafting Company offers a variety of rafting trips suitable for different skill levels, from adrenaline-pumping adventures to a more relaxed river float. They provide guided tours, safety equipment and experienced guides to ensure a top-notch rafting experience. Fun fact: the Wenatchee River has hosted numerous national and international white water events, including the U.S. National Whitewater Championships.
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce Brian Munoz/Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
Looking for something a little more low-key? Nearby Lake Wenatchee offers a variety of aquatic activities. Rent a kayak, canoe or paddleboard, or spend a leisurely day swimming and sunbathing on the sandy beaches. The lake is also known for its excellent trout fishing, attracting anglers from near and far. The tranquil waters, lush forests and majestic mountain views make it a perfect place to relax and appreciate nature’s beauty. Watch for bald eagles, osprey, deer and other animals that frequent the area. Leavenworth’s surrounding mountains and trails offer numerous hiking and mountain biking options for all skill levels if you prefer your adventures on two feet or two wheels. Icicle Ridge Trail is a challenging but rewarding hike known for its stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the Icicle Creek Valley. The trail is approximately 9 miles (round trip) and gains significant elevation, making it suitable for experienced hikers or those up for a more strenuous trek. It’s also a popular trail among mountain bikers who enjoy the thrill of navigating its singletrack sections and taking in spectacular views along the way. Biking the trail requires advanced riding skills and fitness due to its steep climbs, technical sections and rugged terrain. Please note that mountain biking on the Icicle Ridge Trail is subject to regulations and may have certain restrictions during specific times of the year. Wind down your day at München Haus Bavarian Grill & Beer Garden, a popular destination known for its authentic German cuisine and festive beer garden atmosphere. From bratwursts and sausages to pretzels and sauerkraut, the menu showcases the flavors of Bavaria. Vegetarian and vegan options are also available for those with dietary preferences. One of the highlights of München Haus is its bustling outdoor beer garden. Surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery, it offers plenty of seating, including communal picnic tables, where you can mingle with friends—and make some new ones. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
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EAT Crêpe Café Sisters www.crepecafesisters.com/ leavenworth J5 Coffee www.j5coffee.com München Haus www.munchenhaus.com Sulla Vita www.sullavita.com
STAY Posthotel www.posthotelleavenworth.com Thousand Trails RV Campground www.thousandtrails.com/ washington/leavenworthrv-campground
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
LEAVENWORTH, WASHINGTON
trip planner
A couple of surprises come in the form of local winery Silvara Cellars (above) and the stunning Leavenworth Golf Course (at left).
PLAY Eagle Creek Winery www.eaglecreekwinery.com
Icicle Ridge Winery www.icicleridgewinery.com Lake Wenatchee www.parks.wa.gov/535/ Lake-Wenatchee Leavenworth Golf Course www.leavenworthgolf.com Osprey Rafting Company www.ospreyrafting.com Silvara Cellars www.silvarawine.com
Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce
Icicle Ridge Trail www.wta.org/go-hiking/ hikes/icicle-ridge-1
Day TEE UP • WINE(D) DOWN
Crêpe Café Sisters is a morning tradition in Leavenworth. (photo: Crêpe Café Sisters)
Start the day with a sweet or savory crepe at Crêpe Café Sisters. The Darlin’ is a favorite, filled with homemade caramel sauce, then topped with fire-roasted apple slices and dusted with cinnamon sugar. Vegan and glutenfree batter is available upon request. If you imbibe, Leavenworth is part of the Cascade Valley Wine Country, home to numerous wineries. Late summer and early fall are harvest seasons, and the combination of fall colors and vineyards makes for a delightful experience. Take a wine tour, sample local wines and enjoy the picturesque vineyards. Some popular wineries include Icicle Ridge Winery, Silvara Cellars and Eagle Creek
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Winery. Many nearby orchards offer a pickyour-own apple experience and serve delicious cider. Golf enthusiasts can tee off at the Leavenworth Golf Course. Surrounded by the Cascade mountains, the eighteen-hole course uses its natural surroundings to create a gorgeous golfing experience amidst tall evergreen trees, lush fairways, and manicured greens. It features a well-maintained layout with various hole designs, including elevation changes, water hazards, and strategic bunkering. While the course is enjoyable for players of all skill levels, it also offers elements that can be challenging for more experienced golfers.
Satoshi Eto/TravelOregon.com
northwest destination
Crater Lake National Park The deep blue gem of the Pacific Northwest written by Ryn Pfeuffer
IT TAKES some work to get to Crater Lake, but, for outdoor enthusiasts, the cobalt blue waters of the largest, cleanest lake in the United States are worth it. It’s roughly a four- to five-hour drive south of Portland, depending on your route and traffic conditions. Tack on another two to three hours if you’re coming from Seattle. Either way, it’s a scenic trip and well worth the time. Plan to stop at Salt Creek Falls. Situated in the Willamette National Forest, approximately 58 miles southeast of Eugene, Oregon, Salt Creek Falls is a popular tourist attraction known for its impressive 286-foot-tall waterfalls. There are picnic tables and benches, so you can pack a lunch, stretch your legs, and soak up the forested landscape before continuing your trip. Fifteen miles farther down State Highway 58, you’ll come across Crescent Lake. If you have time, hike the 5-mile Crescent Lake Trail. It’s a relatively easy loop that circles the lake, with scenic views of the lake and opportunities to access the shoreline in several spots. If you’re approaching from the north (one of the main routes leading to Crater Lake from the north), Toketee Falls is located off State Highway 138. It’s a popular spot for photography and hiking, offering a short trail that leads
to a viewpoint of the two-tiered falls. From the falls, it’s an easy two-hours-drive to your destination. When you arrive at Crater Lake National Park, check into Mazama Campground (open only in summer). Although the 214-site campground is only open for a short window each year, it’s a gorgeous spot tucked into an old-growth forest at 6,000 feet. While there, check out the nearby Godfrey Glen Trail. This 1.5-mile loop trail takes hikers through a lush, old-growth forest with interpretive signs. If you prefer more amenities, the charming Rustic Mountain Cabins are located along the North Umpqua River, the region of the Oregon Cascades commonly referred to as “Oregon’s Emerald-Jewel Gateway” to Crater Lake. The cabins are centrally located to the North Umpqua Trail, with
President Theodore Roosevelt created Crater Lake National Park, the sixth national park, in 1902.
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
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Joey Hamilton/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
northwest destination
84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Salt Creek Falls shows its 286-foot drop near Oakridge, and is a good stop on the way to Crater Lake.
northwest destination
easy drives to many trailheads, waterfalls, and Umpqua Hot Springs. (Pro tip: If you plan to visit the hot springs, go early, like 6 a.m. early. Otherwise, it gets crowded.) Dining options in the area are pretty limited. Your best bet is the Crater Lake Lodge Dining Room. The historic lodge is the centerpiece of Rim Village, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and takes reservations up to a week in advance. It also provides rustic lodging for visitors. Start with the smoked trout and spinach dip, then the pan-roasted steelhead with rice pilaf and lemon herb butter sauce. Everything pairs well with Steel’s Fireside Toddy, named for William Gladstone Steel. Known as the “Father of Crater Lake,” Steel spent much of his life lobbying for Crater Lake to be recognized as a national park. Rim Village Café and Annie Creek Restaurant and Gift Shop are also decent dining options. Begin your Crater Lake adventures with a stop at The Rim Village Visitor Center. It serves as an information hub for visitors, providing maps, brochures and knowledgeable staff who can assist with trip planning. Exhibits and displays offer insights into the geology, history and ecology of Crater Lake National Park.
A short walk from Rim Village, the Sinnott Memorial Overlook provides a stunning view of Crater Lake. Named for Oregon Congressman Nick Sinnott who was an advocate for Crater Lake and public lands, this viewpoint offers excellent photo opportunities and interpretive panels about the lake’s formation. During the summer, the vintage-style Crater Lake Trolley takes visitors on a guided journey around the lake, offering narrated historical and natural insights into the park’s features. Crater Lake offers a variety of trails to explore. One of the best is the Cleetwood Cove Trail, a steep and strenuous 2.2-mile roundtrip hike and the only (authorized) trail to the water. The crystal-clear water in Cleetwood Cove is cold, but not ice cold, due to its elevation and depth, but it feels refreshing during warmer summer months. Garfield Peak Trail, Watchman Peak Trail and Plaikni Falls Trail are also popular picks. Since snow conditions vary from year to year, visit the park’s website at www.nps.gov/ crla, and navigate to the “alerts and conditions” section to make sure roads are open and accessible. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK, OREGON
National Park Service
Take a leap into Crater Lake at the bottom of the Cleetwood Cove Trail.
EAT Annie Creek Restaurant and Gift Shop www.travelcraterlake.com/ dining/annie-creek-restaurant Crater Lake Lodge Dining Room www.travelcraterlake.com/ dining/crater-lake-lodgedining-room Rim Village Café www.travelcraterlake.com/ dining/rim-village-cafe
STAY Mazama Campground www.recreation.gov Rustic Mountain Cabins www.airbnb.com/ rooms/18655100
PLAY Cleetwood Cove Trail www.nps.gov Rim Village Visitor Center www.nps.gov Salt Creek Falls www.fs.usda.gov Toketee Falls www.alltrails.com/trail/us/ oregon/toketee-falls
The crystalclear water in Cleetwood Cove is cold, but not ice cold, due to its elevation and depth, but it feels refreshing during warmer summer months.
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1889 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville
Bellingham
San Juan Islands
Friday Harbor
North Cascades National Park
Mount Vernon
Port Port Angeles Townsend Sequim
Forks
Shelton Aberdeen
Newport
Marysville Everett Chelan
Seattle Bellevue
Port Orchard
Tacoma
Colville Okanogan
Whidbey Island
Olympic National Park
Republic
Winthrop
Leavenworth
Renton Kent Federal Way
Wilbur
Waterville
Spokane Davenport
Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville
Montesano Olympia
Mount Rainier N.P.
Ellensburg Colfax
Chehalis
South Bend
Pullman Yakima Pomeroy
Long Beach Cathlamet
Kelso Longview
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
Richland
Mount Adams
Prosser
Pasco
Dayton
Asotin
Walla Kennewick Walla
Goldendale Vancouver
86
Stevenson
Live
Think
Explore
14 Olympia Harbor Days Festival
44 Locust Cider
70
Three Fingers Lookout
20 The Hop and Hound
46 Ragfinery
72
Methow Rafting
23 Durkin’s Liquor Bar
50 Pink Lemonade Project
76
The Lodge at Columbia Point
24 Washington Tuna Classic
78
Icicle Ridge Trail
38 Gorge Downwind Championships
83
Crater Lake National Park, Oregon
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2023
Until Next Time People come together at Gas Works Park in Seattle. photo by Winston O’Neil
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Continue for Special Insert
6 AVAcations in Oregon & Washington
FOUR NORTHWEST TASTING ROOMS FEATURING FULL BISTRO MENUS
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3 X W I N E RY O F T H E Y E A R & 3 X W I N E M A K E R O F T H E Y E A R Ma r y h i l l s h o w c a s e s re g i o n a l l y i n s p i re d fo o d a l o n g w i t h a p p ro a c h a b l e , a w a rd - w i n n i n g w i n e s i n G o l d e n d a l e , S p o k a n e , Va n c o u ve r a n d Wo o d i n v i l l e , Wa s h i n g t o n . Fa m i l y o w n e d s i n c e 1 9 9 9 , Ma r y h i l l i s p ro u d t o s h o w c a s e t h e r i c h a n d d i ve r s e fl a vo r s o f Wa s h i n g t o n s t a t e w i n e w i t h p a s s i o n , p a a e n c e a n d b a l a n c e . V i s i t o n e o f Ma r y h i l l ’s d e s s n a a o n t a s s n g ro o m s a n d e x p e r i e n c e a w a rd - w i n n i n g w i n e s a l o n g w i t h s t u n n i n g l o c a a o n s a n d f u l l B i s t ro m e n u s t o e n h a n c e yo u r w i n e t a s s n g e x p e r i e n c e .
Succession Wines
SIX AVACATIONS in Oregon & Washington
Vacations are most effective when there is a general plan without being overly prescriptive, allowing something to chance. It’s when that latter period is allowed in your travel plans—the unprescribed—that unexpected and good things can happen. It opens your world to others and other experiences, and expands your understanding of the universe. We take the same approach to outings in wine country. We provide some structure for rambling tastings through some of the world’s best small wine regions, or AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), so designated for their subtle differences in the characteristics of the soil, temperature and environs of the wine that area produces. We help get you started with a general outline of the places to go, where to stay and the wines to sip in the Pacific Northwest’s top AVAs in what we call AVAcations, each one subtly different from the next. Each one has its own terroir and taste. Breathe in deeply, and let these ideas swirl in your mouth before committing.
A publication of Statehood Media
Cover: Domaine Drouhin, Oregon
www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com
photo, above: Succession Wines; cover: Domaine Drouhin
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OREGON
Oregon is known internationally for one of its pinot noirs that emerged from obscurity when it miraculously placed third among the world’s best pinot noirs in the 1979 Wine Olympics held in France. Incredulous, the French came over and bought land, and the Californians came up and bought more, but a small crew of pioneering Oregon winemakers were already tilling soil and making great wine in what would become one of Oregon’s distinguishing products. Oregon has twenty-three federally designated AVAs, all of them distinct enough to earn their own branding, all of them worth their own AVAcation. For this guide, we center on three top AVAs whose terroir produces wine that will engage your sense of taste in subtly different ways and take you to places of extraordinary beauty along the way.
Bites & Nights DINING Tina’s
www.tinasdundee.com
Dundee Bistro
www.dundeebistro.com
Ruddick Wood
www.ruddickwood.com
LODGING Dundee Hotel
www.thedundee.com
The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com
Atticus Hotel
www.atticushotel.com
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PNW Wine Guide 2023
Dundee Hills Nearly 26 miles southwest of Portland, the Dundee Hills AVA is where Oregon wine launched into the limelight. The jory soil and maritime climate with hot days and cool nights create the perfect growing conditions for Oregon’s foundational wine—pinot noir. One notable winery in Oregon history is Domaine Drouhin. The Drouhin family from France’s Burgundy region quickly bought land in Oregon after Oregon’s Eyrie Vineyards took third at the 1979 Wine Olympics. Their Oregon winery, Domaine Drouhin in the Dundee Hills, offers the opportunity to decide for yourself how French Burgundy wines compare with Oregon’s pinots through tastings of Drouhin wines from vineyards in France and the Dundee Hills. Book this experience ahead of time at Domaine Drouhin’s beautiful tasting room overlooking the vines that produce some of Oregon’s best wine. Just a few miles away, is another storied name in Oregon pinots—
Sokol Blosser Winery
Sokol Blosser. Founded by Bill and Susan Sokol Blosser in 1971, Susan was the driving force behind this sustainable winery and prominent in the local industry. Go underground to Sokol Blosser’s LEED certified barrel tasting room in the fall as last year’s vintages are coming of age. Finally, head over to Torii Mor Winery for another luscious pinot
noir experience in a Japanese garden setting. Like many of its neighbors, Torii Mor strives to meet the highest standards of sustainable production. If you’re looking for one location to sit down and sip in many wines from this AVA, try the Dundee Bistro, a white tablecloth dining experience with the region’s best wines at your table.
photos, from left: The Allison Inn & Spa, Andrea Johnson/Sokol Blosser Winery
OREGON
Bites & Nights DINING Jacksonville Inn www.jacksonville inn.com
Larks Home Kitchen
www.larksashland.com
Irvine & Roberts Vineyards
Hearsay Restaurant www.hearsay ashland.com
Rogue Valley Though the Willamette Valley is commonly known as the heart of Oregon’s wine country, the Rogue Valley has the claim of being the earliest acreage devoted to winemaking in Oregon. Photographer Peter Britt first planted wine grapes in the Rogue Valley in the 1850s at his home, which is now the site of the famed Britt Music Festival. Others, including August Petard, also grew wine grapes in the area, but, at least in Petard’s case, were shut down for bootlegging during Prohibition. Today Rogue Valley AVA has 180 wineries that grow 50 varietals in a beautiful region that is also close to the Oregon Coast and Crater Lake National Park for recreation. One nice way to start your Rogue AVAcation is at Irvine & Roberts Vineyards a few miles southeast of Ashland proper. A terraced outdoor tasting room with gas fire pits overlooks the soft colors of the rolling hills whose soil
LODGING Jacksonville Inn www.jacksonville inn.com
Ashland Springs Hotel
www.ashlandsprings hotel.com
Ashland Hills
www.ashlandhills hotel.com
DANCIN Vineyards
Today Rogue Valley AVA has 180 wineries that grow 50 varietals in a beautiful region.
photos, from top: Gregor Halenda Photo/Irvine & Roberts, Andrea Johnson/DANCIN Vineyards
creates a pinot worthy of comparison with its Dundee counterparts and a fantastic mourvedre, from a grape known to the Rhone and Provence regions of France. RoxyAnn Winery is a wonderfully different experience, inside of a vaulted historic barn with a state-of-the-art kitchen and a country-meets-sophistication feel. Here, you’ll want to sip RoxyAnn’s best clarets and tempranillos. To be truly transported to another place and time, finish your night at DANCIN Vineyards in Medford.
Dan and Cindy Marca came together to make bold and beautiful Italian wines in a place and time where no one else was doing it. Today their sangiovese and barberas are as Old World as the Tuscan-style outdoor tasting room that feels like a little piazza in Italy. Many of the best wines from the region can be found and tasted at The Urban Cork in Medford. This tasting room features all of the wines that are customers of Pallet Wine Company, a custom crush facility next door.
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Bites & Nights DINING
Hood River / Columbia Gorge
Celilo Restaurant www.celilo restaurant.com
Cathedral Ridge Winery
Stonehenge Gardens www.stonehedge weddings.com/ rehearsal-dinners
3 Rivers Grill
www.threerivers grill.com
LODGING
Hood River Hotel www.hoodriver hotel.com
Columbia Gorge Hotel
www.columbiagorge hotel.com
The Society Hotel
www.thesocietyhotel. com/bingen
Hiyu Wine Farm
End the day at Hiyu, in the rolling hills above Hood River. The wine here is made the same way it was hundreds of years ago, by hand and foot and in small batches. 6
PNW Wine Guide 2023
An emerging wine growing region in Oregon is the Hood River area of the Columbia Gorge AVA. While most of the vines are not as old and set in their ways as those of the Willamette Valley and some in the Rogue Valley, there are many reasons to put Hood River on your summer or fall calendar. Start the day under the sun on the patio of Cathedral Ridge. Opt for the reserve reds such as the Winemaker’s Reserve blend or the Barbera Reserve. Sip in the work of winemaker Michael Sebastiani and the views of the surrounding vineyard and Hood River Valley. After many years in the wine industry, Franco Marchesi from Northern Italy found that the terroir of Hood River was much
like his childhood home. In 2003, he bought an old apple orchard and planted Italian grapes. At Marchesi Vineyards, find a table next to the same Italian varietals you will love—barbera, sangiovese and pinot grigio. End the day at Hiyu, in the rolling hills above Hood River. The wine here is made the same way it was hundreds of years ago, by hand and foot and in small batches. Much of the food served is also either grown on the farm or foraged nearby. The overall experience: exquisite. Bundle the best of the region’s wines with a reservation at Celilo Restaurant in Hood River. Serving dishes made from the surrounding farms, Celilo also has an extensive selection of local wines for pairing.
photos, clockwise from top left: Aubrie LeGault, Cathedral Ridge Winery, Marielle Dezurick/Hiyu Wine Farm, Hood River Hotel
WCVA_
Tualatin Valley
Sip, Stay, Repeat!
Visit the wineries of Oregon’s Tualatin Valley, the closest wine country to Portland.
Blizzard Wines Hillsboro, Oregon
Plan a wine country excursion today at tualatinvalley.org
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WASHINGTON
You might not know this, but Washington is the second-largest wine-producing state in the country, with more than 60,000 acres in production. Like Oregon, Washington can draw straight lines around the world to the top wine-growing regions in France, putting it on latitude with the wines of the Old World. The basalt bedrock of both Oregon and Washington comes from a deep volcanic past and present and makes for great New World wines.
Bites & Nights DINING Andante Restaurant www.andante chelan.com
The Bistro at Lake Chelan
www.chelanbistro.com
Campbell’s Pub
www.campbellsresort. com/dining
LODGING Lakeside Lodge & Suites
www.lakesidelodge andsuites.com
Driftin Cabanas www.driftin cabanas.com
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PNW Wine Guide 2023
Lake Chelan One favorite summer spot for many Washingtonians is Lake Chelan. It is also one of the more fertile growing regions in the state. Doubtfully those who designate new AVAs take into account the views, but if they did, Lake Chelan would be among the finest. The Italian spelling of Mellison is Mellisoni. And so after a life-inspiring trip to Tuscany in 2002 and taking part in the manual labor of a winery, they decided to bring that experience back to friends and family in Lake Chelan. Mellisoni Vineyards was established soon after returning from Italy, and now Mellisoni serves elegant cab francs and syrahs with live music every Monday during the summer and on a green, green lawn overlooking the lake. Succession. Instead of an awful and corrupt world with more wealth than moral compass, think of a gorgeous winery on the shore of Lake Chelan. Such is the case with Succession Wines in Manson. This name is derived from the notion of picking yourself up and going on after misfortune has struck. Indeed, Succession is about healing. The 2020 Oscar merlot will help the process as will
Mellisoni Vineyards
Succession Wines
the 2021 chardonnay, six months in oak, all on the north shore of Lake Chelan. Nefarious, just a scenic 10mile drive around the southern horn of Lake Chelan, is another experience with a slightly different mouthfeel than others. On a hot day, bring the strawberry, rhubarb and lemon zest all to bear with a
Lake Chelan
bottle of the 2022 rosé while kicking back in an Adirondack chair on a patio above the blue Lake Chelan below. Take in all of the region’s wines in over homemade lasagna or Tuscan stew at Andante’s Italian restaurant in Chelan. The wine list nicely covers Lake Chelan, as well as the rest of the world.
photos, clockwise from left: The Bistro at Lake Chelan, Altanto Vino, Lake Chelan Chamber of Commerce, Succession Wines
WASHINGTON
STATE
Live Music Event at J.Bell Cellars
YAKIMA VALLEY
Cowiche Creek Brewing Co.
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Foundry Vineyards
Canvasback Winery
Walla Walla For emerging AVAs, Bites & Nights net with fruit from Red Mountain. Travel there is none better DINING a little without leaving than the distinct wines your table by comparthat come from Walla Passatempo Taverna www.passatempo ing Canvasback’s Red Walla. The sweet wallawalla.com Mountain cabernet onion capital of the sauvignon with its world peeled back layWalla Walla cab sauv. ers in 1978 and began In 1978, the planting wine grapes. Leonetti and FigSince then, the region gins family reap the has grown to 120 bounty of the first wineries and include wine grapes planted in some of the state’s Walla Walla, cabernet top winemakers who and riesling. Today planted acres rather Brasserie Four Leonetti Cellars is than missing the boat www.brasseriefour.com widely known and its and getting counseling wines highly coveted. for ongoing Walla The Marc @ Marcus Whitman Though its wines are Walla FOMO. www.marcuswhitman made to cellar for Foundry Vineyards hotel.com/wine-dine years, who really has brings together art and that kind of time and wine in a spectacular LODGING patience? Dive into marriage. The Gallery The Marcus Whitman the luscious cabernet at Foundry hosts the www.marcuswhitman sauvignons that put work of such artists as hotel.com Walla Walla on the Deborah Butterfield, The Finch wine map and marks James Lavadour and Ai www.finch the cornerstone of this Weiwei. Add bold reds wallawalla.com AVAcation. and sparkling wines for If the weather is inclement or a Walla Walla AVA immersion. you’re wanting a more concentratTake a flight of Canvasback ed Walla Walla wine experience, Winery’s cabernet sauvignon under umbrella-ed picnic tables on you can either stroll the thirty downtown tasting rooms or take its back lawn. Canvasback began a seat at The Vineyard Lounge at tasting and testing cab sauv wines The Marcus Whitman Hotel and in Napa and Washington before indulge in wines from the area. jumping in with their own caber-
If the weather is inclement or you’re wanting a more concentrated Walla Walla wine experience, you can either stroll the thirty downtown tasting rooms or take a seat at The Vineyard Lounge at The Marcus Whitman Hotel and indulge in wines from the area. 12
PNW Wine Guide 2023
photos, clockwise from top left: Ilana Freddye/Foundry Vineyards, Ben Lindbloom/Passatempo Taverna, Richard Duval/The Duckhorn Portfolio
WASHINGTON
Palouse Winery
photos, from left: Palouse Winery, Gravy
Vashon Island The artsy community of Vashon Island also is home to a small, but engaging, wine scene. The Puget Sound island, south of Seattle but connected by a short ferry ride, is quietly making the case for oenophiles to hop that ferry. Vashon Winery was the first to market with an all-Vashon-grown pinot noir in 2008. Even today the winery still calls itself a “garagiste” operation, making approximately 600 cases per year. The Vashon terroir comes through in its pinot noir and a Chasselas Doré, a white wine from a grape originally grown in the Alps. In and among its barrels, Palouse Winery pours a few wines that are worth this stop. If the day is cool
and cloudy, opt for the Pure Velvet petit verdot or the Black Pearl petit sirah, two such rare wines. If your day is sunny and warm, try Palouse’s 2020 Cloud 9 riesling, which won a double gold award in the 2021 Seattle Wine Awards.
Bites & Nights DINING Gravy
www.gravyvashon.com
The Puget Sound island, south of Seattle but connected by a short ferry ride, is quietly making the case for oenophiles to hop that ferry.
Wild Mermaid
The Wild Mermaid on Facebook
LODGING The Lodges on Vashon
www.lodgeson vashon.com
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UNWIND AT A WINE FARM IN THE
W I L L AMETTE VALLEY The perfect way to experience this wine region is with the new Mt. Hood Territory Wine Trail. This free mobile passport guides you through The Territory’s boutique, family owned wineries. An in-pass map makes it easy to find a winery near your location. Check in at each location to earn fantastic prizes, plus discover exclusive discounts, all while supporting our local winemakers.
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The farms and vineyards in the Willamette Valley region of Mt. Hood Territory provide an escape from other wine regions’ crowds and create a more intimate experience. These tasting rooms are often staffed by one of the owners or the winemaker — and in most cases, they are one and the same. On-farm wineries allow guests to enjoy the peacefulness of the fields and the chance to see where the grapes are grown and harvested. They also provide visitors an opportunity to chat with the winemakers and hear firsthand how their passion became their career. Located in the north Willamette Valley, Hanson Vineyards is a four generation family farm. They grow nine grape varieties at their vineyard and focus on a hands-on style, believing the grape grower’s role is as vital as the winemaker’s. Wooden Shoe Vineyards is a five-minute drive down the road at Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm. Their rustic tasting room is the perfect place to sample wines while soaking in views of the tulip farm, gardens and vineyards.
Campbell Lane Winery might be one of West Linn’s newest wineries, but it is also home to some of Oregon’s oldest pinot gris vines. Planted in the 1980s, the vineyard — at that time — had the largest pinot gris planting in the U.S. at 2.65 acres. They now have 21 acres, and their tasting room features great views of Mt. Hood. On Parrett Mountain in Wilsonville sits the family owned Terra Vina Wines. Enjoy their “La Famiglia” label featuring all estate grown fruit while taking in beautiful views of Mt. Hood over the vineyard. Oswego Hills Vineyard and Winery’s farm history dates back to the 1850s. Fun fact: During the 1940s, the farm was a world-class equestrian center that hosted Roy Roger’s horses Trigger and Buttercup while on Pacific Northwest trips. The tasting room features old photos that celebrate the farm’s past. This is your invitation to reconnect with nature over a glass of wine.
Now Open in the Dundee Hills Enjoy Oregon hospitality with wine and food pairings, stunning views, educational tours and beautiful gardens overlooking the Dundee Hills.
Learn more and plan your visit at DomaineWillamette.com OPEN DAILY 11 am – 6 pm 19255 N HWY 99W Dayton, OR 97114 | (971) 545 - 4200 | info@domainewillamette.com Jim Bernau, Founder/CEO
Wine Tasting & Food Pairings Our Tasting Room & Restaurant locations feature barrel booth seating, indoor/outdoor dining, cozy fireplaces and full menus including curated wine and food pairings. Learn more at: wvv.com/visit
Lake Oswego | Vancouver | Happy Valley | Bend (Opening Fall 2023!)
Oregon’s AVAs 22 20
19
21
1
11
4
5
12
2
200
23
3
15
16
7
8
14
6
9 10
13
17 18
Source: Oregon Wine Board
1.
16
Willamette Valley
7.
Dundee Hills
13. Southern Oregon
19. Columbia Gorge
2. Yamhill-Carlton
8. McMinnville
14. Umpqua Valley
20. Columbia Valley
3. Chehalem Mountains
9. Eola-Amity Hills
15. Red Hill Douglas County
21.
4. Tualatin Hills
10. Van Duzer Corridor
16. Elkton Oregon
5. Laurelwood District
11. Mount Pisgah
17.
22. The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater
6. Ribbon Ridge
12. Lower Long Tom
18. Applegate Valley
PNW Wine Guide 2023
Rogue Valley
Walla Walla Valley
23. Snake River Valley
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FREE | OPEN TO THE PUBLIC FREE | OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 3:00PM-9:00PM | PEAR BLOSSOM PARK 3:00PM-9:00PM | PEAR BLOSSOM PARK
Experience the Rogue Valley in Experience the Rogue Valley in Downtown Medford. The Heart of the Downtown Medford. The Heart of the Rogue Festival is a confluence of all Rogue Festival is a confluence of all that the Rogue Valley is through our that the Rogue Valley is through our community of artists, musicians, community of artists, musicians, makers, growers, and experiences. makers, growers, and experiences. Bringing everything and everyone the Bringing everything and everyone the Rogue Valley has to offer to downtown Rogue Valley has to offer to downtown Medford for a vibrant two-day Medford for a vibrant two-day celebration. celebration.
3pm-9pm Blossom Lounge + Festival Open 3pm-9pm Blossom Lounge + Festival Open 4pm-7pm Bikes N Brews Pre-Registration Packet Pickup 4pm-7pm Bikes N Brews Pre-Registration Packet Pickup 4pm-8pm Rogue Marathon Pre-Registration Packet Pickup 4pm-8pm Rogue Marathon Pre-Registration Packet Pickup 3:30pm-9pm Live Music, Entertainment & Vendors 3:30pm-9pm Live Music, Entertainment & Vendors 9pm Festival Closes 9pm Festival Closes MUSIC | FOOD TRUCKS | GAMES | WINE & BEER MUSIC | FOOD TRUCKS | GAMES | WINE & BEER
Oct Oct 14th, 14th, 2023 2023
FREE | OPEN TO THE PUBLIC FREE | OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 7am Rogue Run Marathon ( Boston Qualifier) 7am Rogue Run Marathon ( Boston Qualifier) 8am-10am Start Times for Bikes N Brews 8am-10am Start Times for Bikes N Brews 9am Bikes N Brews Entertainment + Activities 9am Bikes N Brews Entertainment + Activities 9am Marathon Runners Reception + Recovery 9am Marathon Runners Reception + Recovery 11am-5pm Blossom Lounge + Festival Opens 11am-5pm Blossom Lounge + Festival Opens 12pm-5pm Live Music + Entertainment 12pm-5pm Live Music + Entertainment 5pm Festival Closes 5pm Festival Closes
HEARTOFTHEROGUEFESTIVAL.COM HEARTOFTHEROGUEFESTIVAL.COM
Washington’s AVAs 20
19
18
1
17
14
15 16
12 13
11
7
6
10 8
4
2 3
5 Source: Washington State Wine Commission
1. Puget Sound
6. Lewis-Clark Valley
12. Rattlesnake Hills
18. Ancient Lakes
2. Columbia Gorge
7.
Columbia Valley
13. Snipes Mountain
19. Rocky Reach
3. The Burn of Columbia Valley
8. Candy Mountain
14. Naches Heights
20. Lake Chelan
4. Horse Heaven Hills
9. Goose Gap
15. Wahluke Slope
10. Red Mountain
16. White Bluffs
11. Yakima Valley
17. Royal Slope
5. Walla Walla Valley
18
9
PNW Wine Guide 2023
Just five miles from the heart of downtown Ashland, Irvine & Roberts offers some of Oregon’s most thrilling Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in a panoramic setting. Visit our tasting room, enjoy local small plates and take in the view that changed our lives.
Extraordinary WINES
FROM AN
Extraordinary PLACE
1614 Emigrant Creek Rd. Ashland, Oregon 541.482.9383 irvinerobertsvineyards.com
Please Drink Responsibly. ©2023 King Estate Winery, Eugene, Oregon
