1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: PNW Wine Guide | August/September 2024 by Statehood Media

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Blackberries: Salad to Sorbet

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Going to the Summit photography by Whitney Whitehouse Glacier National Park’s Going-to-the-Sun Road is one of the country’s top cycling adventures. (pg. 56) 2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3

Eva Seelye

FEATURES AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024 • volume 44

Going to the Sun

Delicious Design

A journey to the summit of Glacier National Park’s spectacular Going-tothe-Sun Road on bike and e-bike.

The Art of Food, a touring exhibit from the Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation, now at the Museum of Art at WSU.

written by Kevin Max

written by Kerry Newberry

50 Farm Stands Summer’s best roadside attractions—farm stands—are becoming culinary destinations of their own. Here are four stops to add to your road trip. written by Ryn Pfeuffer

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

DEPARTMENTS AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024 • volume 44

LIVE

14 SAY WA?

International Kite Festival; Sail-In Cinema; Vancouver Arts & Music Festival.

18 FOOD + DRINK

Extraordinary pub grub; Ferndale Farmstead.

24 FARM TO TABLE Blackberries.

28 HOME + DESIGN

Two creative kitchen makeovers. Patrick Martinez

36 MIND + BODY

Dana Lawson digs deep for her first marathon.

THINK 42 STARTUP

bAckspace Sheds.

46 MY WORKSPACE

Spokane soccer’s Katie Harnetiaux.

48 GAME CHANGER

CultureSeed connects kids with outdoor experiences.

EXPLORE 70 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Steph Forrer/Visit Walla Walla

The Sol Duc River.

10 Editor’s Letter 11 1889 Online 86 Map of Washington 88 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Eva Seelye Garden Treasures, near Arlington (see “Farm Fresh,” pg. 50)

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

72 ADVENTURE

Six sensory-filled cultural experiences.

76 LODGING

The GG, Walla Walla.

78 TRIP PLANNER

Anacortes, a coastal town of culinary riches.

84 NW DESTINATION

Mount Angel and Oktoberfest.

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WASHINGTON

STATE YAKIMA VALLEY

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Discover 18 craft breweries and taprooms and savor hop country innovation at the tap.

GET YOUR TRAVEL GUIDE AT VISITYAKIMA.COM

CONTRIBUTORS

JACKIE DODD Writer + Photographer Beervana

EVA SEELYE Photographer Farm Fresh

JASON REDMOND Photographer Startup

JENNA LECHNER Illustrator Home + Design DIY

“I may be biased, but the Pacific Northwest has the most outstanding breweries and overall beer scene. No matter how many breweries I visit, there always seems to be a new one somewhere within driving distance that I haven’t tried yet. Maybe it’s the fact that the majority of the hops grown on this continent come from the Yakima Valley region, maybe it’s our superior water supply, or possibly the farmto-fermenter mentality of our brewers, but there is no greater place than here to be a craft beer fan.” (pg. 18)

“From purple broccoli to vibrant florals, photographing Garden Treasures’ farm stand and U-pick garden was a colorful adventure and a beautiful learning experience, too. Getting welcomed in as a photographer to capture its personality was so special, and hearing Mark and Patricia’s story and experiencing what they’ve grown from the roots up, it’s easy to see how much love they have for this community mainstay.” (pg. 50)

“It was nice meeting bAckspace Sheds owner and founder Scott Carty. As someone who has had to navigate working in journalism after newspaper layoffs, I could relate to career transitions. The Ballard facility where I photographed Scott was full of interesting machinery and pieces of Seattle history and fun to visit. Meeting people like Scott and going to interesting new places reminds me why I was drawn to a career in journalism and why I continue doing it.” (pg. 42)

“I always enjoy a good DIY article, as well as a good mixed drink! And, illustrating glassware and beverages are a fun and unique challenge. So for this issue of 1889, I was delighted to illustrate my own dream bar cart, which features: a variety of liquors, quality glassware, some choice houseplants and, of course, my ever-present whippet mix, Coco, on the side.” (pg. 34)

Jackie Dodd is a writer, photographer and cookbook author serving up beer-infused recipes in Seattle.

Eva Seelye is a freelance adventure travel and lifestyle editorial and commercial photographer. Seattle is her base camp, but the world is her happy place—you’ll often find her in the mountains, either on a trail or a snowboard, nearly always with a camera in hand.

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

Jason Redmond is a freelance photojournalist based in Seattle. He holds a degree from the University of Missouri School of Journalism and has worked at newspapers in Vermont, Missouri, Michigan, Florida and his home state of California.

Jenna Lechner is a freelance illustrator in Portland. Her nature-based ink and watercolor illustrations have appeared on stationery, wallpaper, packaging and more. You can see more of her work on Instagram @jennamlechner.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Rachel Gallaher, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Ben Salmon, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jackie Dodd, Ronald Hope, Petar Marshall, Jason Redmond, Eva Seelye, Whitney Whitehouse

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Jenna Lechner

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AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE

EDITOR

TO TRAVEL is to be human. To explore is divine. In this issue of 1889, you’ll find many opportunities for self-divination—from food and recipes to exotic locations, electric cultural events and even farm stands that have heavenly goods from nearby soil. In our feature on farm stands (pg. 50), we take you out to four destinations that you’ll want to put on your map for any road trip this summer. Now is the optimal time to take advantage of the bounty of our state and take some home with you for your own recipes or to freeze for a winter surprise. Don’t stop your food-driven pursuits there. Brewery owners have been watching The Bear and channeling that energy into their own menus. Beervana on page 18 explores the top-notch cuisine now being created at seven breweries across the state. Crispy pork belly banh mi, almond and port-poached pear cake and roasted bone marrow with caramelized onion and rustic bread. Does this sound like a brewery to you? Me neither.

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

This issue’s Adventure (pg. 72) takes us out to Yakima, doing what it does best, for a fresh hops festival; to Port Angeles for its Dungeness Crab Festival; and down to Tacoma to witness the Northwest Native Festival. Trip Planner drives into Anacortes and stays there, without getting on the ferry. What we encounter is a bustling culinary scene anchored by its long-standing farmers market. Turn to page 78 to read more. Northwest Destination (pg. 84) finds us in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and celebrating Oktoberfest in the most traditional ways at Mount Angel with a Pacific Northwest twist. The town, built around an abbey, now has divine brews coming from highly trained monks at the abbey. I’d be remiss in not drawing attention to the subject of the Cocktail Card on page 21. Served in a martini glass, this gin-lemon-Italicus-based elixir Can I Call You Rose seems the right call at the end of a hot summer night. Cheers!

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Living on Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands is a delight for the senses. As each season changes, small island treasures reveal themselves to those who seek them out.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 28

pg. 36 Dana Lawson overcomes adversity to complete her first marathon.

Ronald Hope

MIND + BODY 36

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Tidbits + To-dos

CA mark LE you ND r AR

Visit Long Beach Peninsula

written by Lauren Kramer

Washington State International Kite Festival Long Beach Peninsula is home to the Washington State International Kite Festival, the longest running, largest kite festival in the nation. Started in 1981, the weeklong festival beginning August 19 draws famous kite fliers from all over the world. Visitors can learn the history of kites at Long Beach’s World’s Kite Museum, including the fact that kites were created and used for communication during WWII. www.kitefestival.com

Island Thyme

Detour Farms Candles

Based on Orcas Island, Island Thyme began with a few soaps in the 1990s and now offers three face care lines, remedies and soothers, skin moisturizers, deodorants, bath and body lotions and lip balms. All products are handcrafted in small batches using the farm’s cucumbers, lavender, chamomile and calendula among other islandgrown botanicals. “We lead with the plants and what their properties can do for the body,” said co-owner Eliza Morris, whose analgesics include pain-removing balms, anti-inflammatory infused oils and liquid roll-ons for heat and cold. Island Thyme has flagship stores on Orcas and San Juan islands, and its products are also available online and in grocery stores, natural markets and gift stores throughout the state.

There’s nothing like a candle to create ambience and fill your room with a tantalizing aroma. Detour Farms is a small-batch candle business in Walla Walla that hand-pours its soy wax candles and offers some exceptional scents. Try “limoncello + crème,” a lemony fragrance with notes of mint, bergamot, cake and butter, or “sanguinello,” a medley of grapefruit, orange peel, lemon peel and mandarin. Detour also offers soap bars, foaming wash and diffusers in these scents and others.

www.islandthyme.com

www.detourfarms.com

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

Port of Everett

CAmark LE you ND r AR

say wa?

Sail-In Cinema Everett’s annual Sail-In Cinema is held on Friday nights in August, with family-friendly movies projected onto a large inflatable screen and visible by spectators on boats and on land. This free event at the Port of Everett’s Boxcar Park will run through August 25, and the movie lineup includes Top Gun: Maverick, Lightyear, Clueless and The Goonies. www.portofeverett.com/visit_the_waterfront/sailin.php

Vancouver USA Arts & Music Festival

CA mark LE you ND r AR

The second annual Vancouver USA Arts & Music Festival will be held at Esther Short Park and downtown August 2-4. This free, three-day event offers music, art, dance, food and fun, with more than thirty live performances on three outdoor stages. Regional and national art shows will be on display, and daily activities include interactive mural painting, glass blowing demonstrations, ceramics, calligraphy and more. For kids there will be an instrument petting zoo, caricature artists, doodle walls, roaming entertainers, face painting, balloon art and lawn games set up across the festival grounds. www.vancouverartsandmusic festival.com

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Sarah Rudinoff follows her instinct and voice into her first full-length album.

Musician

Thirty Years, Together Listen on Spotify Lucky MACK

Seattle writer, singer and actor Sarah Rudinoff’s first album focuses on collaborations written by Ben Salmon

SARAH RUDINOFF grew up in Hawaii, but she spent the past three decades in Seattle carving out a wonderfully diverse career as a writer, singer and actor in film, television, theater and beyond. Her credits range from radio voice-overs and improv performances to solo shows at major arts festivals and stage roles in well-known productions like Mamma Mia. When Covid shut down most live events in 2020, however, she began thinking about making her first full-length album. And then … she couldn’t stop thinking about it. “It was one of those dreams that when you start to dream it, you think, ‘Hold on … that sounds like a lot of work!’ But then you can’t stop the vision, and it just keeps coming to you,” Rudinoff said. “A lot happened to me between 2019 and 2022,” she continued. “I turned 50. My beloved father passed away very suddenly. I went through menopause. We all went through a pandemic, and I got married for the first time. There was a ‘taking stock’ kind of feeling.” That feeling led Rudinoff to the premise behind her new album, Together, a multi-genre survey of collaborations from throughout her career and “a love letter to all her communities: the cabaret world, the theatre scene [and] the rock clubs.” At fourteen tracks, it features Rudinoff ’s original songs as well as covers of tunes by Joni Mitchell, Alison Moyet, Hank Cochran and Led Zeppelin, recorded with musicians such as the 5th Avenue Theatre orchestra, the bluegrass supergroup The Half Brothers and an array of top-shelf pop and rock players. With thirty years of wide-ranging collaborations and styles to choose from, Rudinoff relied on instinct when choosing what to put on Together. 16

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

“It was a feeling. I think words have resonance just like music, and I searched for what still resonated and what I wanted to have recorded,” she said. “Once I had my larger list, I thought about the world needing another cover of a particular song. In one case—‘Over the Rainbow’—even when the answer was ‘no,’ I recorded it anyway [because] Judy Garland is a patron saint of mine and, growing up in Hawaii, Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole’s version is in my DNA.” Rudinoff was raised on the island of Kauai, where she learned to sing in church. Her dad was an Episcopal priest and a powerful storyteller, and her mom played guitar for the services. She started doing musicals in seventh grade, then followed a college boyfriend to Seattle in 1994, where she experienced the height of the city’s post-Nirvana alt-rock frenzy. Thirty years and countless performances later, her first album is not only a highly enjoyable collection of tunes that showcases her considerable talents, it also acts as a sort of scrapbook of Rudinoff ’s artistic accomplishments and the people she has met along the way. “I think since my first love and craft was as an actress and that is where I spent my 10,000 hours training, it is all about the connection with a partner on stage. And that’s how I feel about my music collaborations,” she said. “I wanted to capture that live feeling of a very specific group of players. I think that’s what sets me apart as an artist as well.”

Photos, clockwise from left: Mountaineers Books, Maya Hanson, Nick Zuckerman

say wa?

A Forest of Your Own: The Pacific Northwest Handbook of Ecological Forestry examines forest dynamics at work.

Bibliophile

Read the Forest Digging deeper into the woodlands that sustain the planet—and us interview by Cathy Carroll

A FOREST of Your Own: The Pacific Northwest Handbook of Ecological Forestry is the latest from Washington authors Kirk Hanson, who guides forest owners in managing their land sustainably and whose family manages 200 acres of forestland, and journalist Seth Zuckerman, executive director of the Northwest Natural Resource Group. The book details the intricate web of life and processes at work in the forest. “They aren’t complicated, just ignored as we go about our busy lives,” the authors write. Whether you want to buy forestland, better tend to backyard trees or gain a deeper understanding of what you enjoy while forest bathing or hiking, it’s here. Zuckerman explains.

What would people who don’t For so long, the focus in Pacific own forestland gain from Northwest forests has been on the this book? timber they produce. But ‘forest’ If you live in Washington State, is not the plural of ‘tree.’ There are you’re part of Forest Nation whether so many more gifts that the forest you own forestland or not. We all can offer besides logs for the mill. have a wooded place that we feel a Our forests abound with delicious special connection to—maybe mushrooms, and getting to a trail in a city park, a patch know when and where they of trees in our backyard fruit is a great way to beor a preserve owned by a come more attuned to land trust nearby. After the forest and its microreading this book, you’ll habitats. And the forbe struck by the dynamests also include plants ics at play in the forest with medicinal qualities, that you hadn’t noticed such as the tonic devil’s Kirk Hanson before, such as how lush club, whose properties or sparse the crowns of have been known by the trees are, and whether Indigenous people since they are packed too time immemorial. densely together for the forest to be healthy and Were there any survigorous. You’ll see the prises in researching places where berry bushthis book? es can be found in the Until about seven years understory, where they’re ago, my forestry work had Seth Zuckerman absent and where they been largely in California, manage to hang on but don’t bear so when I started researching the fruit—at least not until a nearby tree wildfire chapter, I was still influenced falls in a windstorm and allows the by that experience. You control the sun to reach the forest floor. risk of catastrophic fire in California by reducing the amount of woody Why is this book important now? fuels in the forest—cutting down For a lot of city dwellers in Washsmall trees in the shade of larger ington State, ‘forestry’ means the ones, and pruning the limbs of the large clearcuts they see on the remaining trees. That way, a fire can landscape. Over the last few detravel through forest and burn along cades, as salmon, climate and wildlife the ground at a low intensity withhave loomed larger for many people, out catching the canopy on fire. That that’s created a counter-reaction. paradigm holds true on the east side Both in public opinion and among of the Cascades in Washington, too. people who own small tracts of forBut in western Washington, est, there’s a sense that the forest where I live and work now, fire is a is better left alone. But apart from very different animal. It produces wilderness areas, forests actually wood so quickly that it would be need careful, thoughtful stewardship a Sisyphean task to keep the fuel to thrive—a need that is becoming loads that low. There’s a place for more urgent as the climate changes. those Californian techniques along We wrote this book to guide people roads and near houses, but fire along that third way, between nebehavior in the forest at large is glect and over-exploitation. driven by the weather, and we need to recognize that every three to five Describe forest farming hundred years, most every acre of and foraging. the forest will burn hot.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17

food + drink

Beervana

OUTSTANDING FOOD AT BREWERIES in the Pacific Northwest written and photographed by Jackie Dodd

WHEN CHICAGO Brewery Moody Tongue earned two Michelin stars, the rest of the brewing world stood up and took notice. “Pub grub” was no longer the baseline for food served in craft brewing establishments that took their beer seriously. In a region renowned for great food like the Pacific Northwest, it’s only natural that our local breweries have elevated their culinary offerings to compete in the landscape of the current craft beer scene. While many breweries face limitations due to kitchen space or the absence of one altogether—so they often rely on the exceptional fare of local food trucks— there are numerous noteworthy locations to explore when you traverse the beer scene in the PNW. Although not exhaustive, the following breweries are worth visiting for their exceptional food and expertly crafted beer. SEATTLE

Perihelion Brewery Since its inception in 2016, this brewery has been redefining what it means to serve food at a brewery. While others were content with bags of chips and soft pretzels, the team at Perihelion took a different approach, smoking their own meats, pickling their own vegetables and earning accolades for their smoked pork belly burger. This all-ages taproom is continually growing and expanding its offerings, making it a must-visit several times a year to see what’s new. Patrons can expect an exciting yet accessible menu that pairs perfectly with their beers. Recent offerings include crispy pork belly banh mi, almond and port-poached pear cake, and roasted bone marrow with caramelized onion and rustic bread. 2800 16TH AVE. S. SEATTLE www.perihelion.beer

SEATTLE

Fair Isle Brewing Fair Isle Brewing has always set the bar high when it comes to the food they

serve with their wild-fermented beers. From beer dinners just post-pandemic to a kitchen space that regularly hosts guest chefs and tasting menus, they take the same approach to their food as they do their beers, celebrating seasonality and utilizing local ingredients. Find oysters and ceviche as well as charcuterie boards and short ribs braised in their own saison. Ingredients exchange hands between the brewer and the chef, offering patrons at their well-appointed space a destination where craft beer and culinary excellence join forces to honor the bounty of the Pacific Northwest. 936 NW 49TH ST. SEATTLE www.fairislebrewing.com

SPOKANE

Iron Goat Brewing Iron Goat Brewing began in a humble shack, relocating more than twelve years ago to a renovated historic building in downtown Spokane’s West End. They offer a range of awardwinning beers, from IPAs to sours, with more than twenty beers on tap, plus local wine

18 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

food + drink Resonate Brewery + Pizzeria in Bellevue makes a compelling argument for Seattle’s best pizza.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

food + drink

and an accessible menu, Aslan would be right in the middle, embodying all of those elements. It’s thoughtful enough to keep your standard-issue food snob happy, but it’s familiar enough not to scare away the culinarily timid. The menu includes offerings such as a makhani curry bowl, slow roasted pork belly, and karaage Japanese chicken, as well as plenty of vegan and gluten-free offerings and adaptations. Their beer is also awardwinning in its own right and excellent to pair with a variety of dishes. If you’re in Bellingham, it’s a must-visit.

alongside European-inspired street foods in a cozy guesthouse tavern.” The food lives up to the inspiration and excellence it strives for, with a vegetarian menu that leaves even the heartiest carnivore wanting for nothing and with a strong focus on breakfast foods. Look for dishes like curry pierogis, farmers cheese pancakes with citrus crème fraîche, shakshuka with burrata, and the beet Reuben sandwich.

1330 N. FOREST ST. BELLINGHAM www.aslanbrewing.com

BELLEVUE

BELLINGHAM

I’m going to make a bold claim: Resonate Brewery makes some of the best pizza in Seattle and should be part of the “Seattle’s Best Pizza” conversation far more often. It’s on the rustic side of comfortable, a place that’s easy to take the family but also great for after-work drinks, and the pizza is worth traveling for. With a cold, fermented Roman-style crust and ingredients like capicola, house-made sauce, burrata and habanero-infused honey, it’s not your standard pizza place. They also offer stromboli, charcuterie boards and, if you’re in luck, a to-die-for warm brownie sundae.

Otherlands Beer Fair Isle Brewing celebrates seasonality and local ingredients alongside its wild-fermented beers.

and cider. Their menu features creative takes on familiar food, including banh mi burritos, golden beet salad with blackberry apricot gastrique, and pizza with fig, brie and prosciutto. 1302 W. 2ND AVE. SPOKANE www.my-site-101810.square.site

SNOHOMISH

Spada Farmhouse Brewery

Otherlands Beer feels like what Rory Gilmore would have opened if she had studied abroad and backpacked through Europe before marrying a chef, coming home and opening a brewery. You know exactly what it would look and feel like, don’t you? And you want to go? You should. Otherlands is in the class of 2020, opening during a worldwide pandemic in a very saturated beer market and making it work. In their own words, “Otherlands Beer is a small brewery and café dedicated to the pursuit of excellence, the exploration of the unknown and the celebration of the beautiful and the absurd. Offering rustic lagers and farmhouse ales

2121 HUMBOLDT ST. BELLINGHAM www.otherlandsbeer.com

Resonate Brewery + Pizzeria

5606 119TH AVE. SE BELLEVUE www.resonatebrewery.com

Spada Farmhouse Brewery, although new in its physical location, has garnered a growing fan base for its wild-fermented beers. Set up in a picturesque location that could double as a set for a Christmas movie, the space has the feeling of an English pub meets an elevated dining spot. Look for menu items such as fried Brussels sprouts with maple-mustard vinaigrette, a hot honey chicken sandwich on brioche, and mini doughnuts with caramel dipping sauce. 709 1ST ST. SNOHOMISH www.spadafarmhousebrewery.com

BELLINGHAM

Aslan Brewing Co. If there was a Venn diagram of laid-back bar food, elevated and thoughtful cuisine

Aslan Brewing Co. serves up its elevated version of pub grub in Bellingham.

20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

food + drink This beautiful Can I Call You Rose cocktail from Bistango in Spokane brings back memories and desires with gin and lemon.

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Bistango Martini Lounge / SPOKANE

Can I Call You Rose Inspired by the band Thee Sacred Souls

• 1 ounce Italicus • 1 ounce Roku Gin • ½ ounce fresh lemon juice • ½ ounce Demerara simple syrup • ½ ounce Green Chartreuse (or substitute) • 2 dashes Angostura bitters • 2 dashes Jamaican #3 bitters

Ari Nordhagen

Pour all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake twenty hard shakes. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Rim the top of the glass with a lemon peel. Garnish with a rose petal.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Ferndale Farmstead

food + drink

CRAVINGS SMOOTHIES The Lime Kiln smoothie from Riptide Café in Friday Harbor is a refreshing summer treat of mango, banana, kale and lime juice, blended with coconut milk and orange juice. The café’s smoothie bowl, featuring honey, coconut and granola, is another great accompaniment as you watch the ferries and float planes come and go from the San Juan Island ferry terminal. 10 FRONT ST., #103 FRIDAY HARBOR www.riptidesanjuan.com

FUDGE

Ferndale Farmstead’s parmesan-style Roundbale cheese.

Gastronomy

Ferndale Farmstead written by Lauren Kramer THERE AREN’T many artisan cheesemakers in the world with a seed-tocheese farmstead, but Ferndale Farmstead is one of them. The 900-acre farm in Whatcom County grows the crops that feed its 750-herd of cows, raises calves, stores milk and processes it in the creamery. Its products include fior di latte, scamorza, smoky scamorza, caciotta, asiago fresco, fontina, parmesan, mozzarella and provolone. And its flavors are garnering national and international attention. Its smoked provolone came home with a gold medal at the 2024 World Championship Cheese Contest, competing against 3,300 cheese entries, and in 2023 its fontina and scamorza received second place awards from the American Cheese Society. Owner and head cheesemaker Daniel Wavrin is the creative mind behind these flavors. He founded the business on Italian cheesemaking principles in 2014 and, to this day, imports all his cultures and rennet from Italy. “Ours is a clean label creamery, which means our cheese is completely free of additives,” he said. “It also has the longest shelf life in the industry thanks to the purity of the milk and the fact that we’re a single-source creamery.” Ferndale Farmstead cheese is available at major grocery stores and cheese shops across the state, as well as at its roadside cheese stand outside the Ferndale farm. Its three top sellers are fior di latte, smokey scamorza and fontina. The latter, which captures the beauty and flavors of Washington, is aged for a full year and perfect on a summer cheese plate. 2780 ALDERGROVE ROAD FERNDALE www.ferndalefarmstead.com

22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

When fudge cravings call, head to Bon Bon Candies, where Bainbridge Island Fudge comes in more than twenty flavors. Choose from chocolate caramel peanut, butterscotch salted caramel, lemon cheesecake or mint chocolate swirl in a build-your-ownbox selection that will satisfy the sweetest of teeth. 230 WINSLOW WAY E. BAINBRIDGE ISLAND www.bonboncandies.com

TRUFFLES Bright’s Candies is the place to go for truffles that combine food art with sweet decadence. A Walla Walla institution since 1934, the shop adds pumpkin-spiced truffles and orange-spiced truffles to its fall collection. Look out for Bright’s striking earth truffle, where roasted almonds, marshmallow and dark chocolate are sheathed in a blue chocolate shell. 11 E. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA www.brightscandies.com

NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS Kindred Spirits in Richland is the place to go for one of the largest collections of nonalcoholic spirits in the Pacific Northwest, from zero-alcohol vodkas and champagnes to plant-based, pre-mixed nightcaps. The bottle shop stocks more than 400 zero-alcohol beverages, but it also features a twenty-fourseat sober bar serving drinks and snacks. 430 GEORGE WASHINGTON WAY, #103 RICHLAND www.kindredspirits.store

BEST PLACES FOR

CAKE OR PIE METROPOLITAN GRILL No point in settling for a simple, two-layer chocolate cake when you could have a ninelayer one! At Seattle’s Metropolitan Grill, this towering dessert features layers of moist devil’s food chocolate cake interspersed with chocolate butter cream. Served with a dark chocolate sauce, it includes a mound of Olympic Mountain Madagascar vanilla ice cream.

Photos: Steph Forrer/Visit Walla Walla

food + drink

820 2ND AVE. SEATTLE www.themetropolitangrill.com

PIE DIVE BAR Pie Dive Bar in Snohomish is receiving acclaim for its Humble Crumble, a pie wherein Granny Smith apples, tossed in sugar, are layered on a mixture of marionberries, raspberries and strawberries. With a bottom crust made from pork-rendered leaf lard and a baked streusel topping, it’s the bar’s number one seller. 921 1ST ST. SNOHOMISH www.piedivebar.com

AHTANUM BERRY PATCH & BAKERY

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen serves lovely dishes in a beautiful setting. Saffron’s storefront in Walla Walla. Owners Island and Chris Ainsworth moved from Seattle to live their Mediterranean dream.

Dining

Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen written by Lauren Kramer

For a light, summery cake, try lemon bliss, a cream cheese-frosted confection from Pure Bliss Desserts in Bellingham. This cake and dessert destination has been known for its incredible cakes since it opened in 2008, and at any one time you can find twenty-two creamy, buttery options in its display case. Chocolate lovers will appreciate the chocolate salted caramel cake, with caramel frosting and a garnish of dark chocolate ganache.

CHRIS AINSWORTH has spread a wide culinary net over the Mediterranean in his restaurant, Saffron, an eighty-seat eatery he opened with his wife, Island, in Walla Walla in 2007. Tabbouleh rubs shoulders with Moroccan lamb sausage, house-made pastas, falafel and patatas bravas, and the menu is a continuously revolving tribute to the foods of Israel, Turkey, Spain, Italy and Morocco. It also oozes with local ingredients coupled with creative flair. My plate of tabbouleh, for example, came with shaved local asparagus and pickled fiddlehead ferns that added a delightful crunch, while the grilled leg of lamb, a dish that had us scraping the plate clean with enthusiasm, featured apricots and pistachios arranged on house-made lemon yogurt and saffron rice. There’s so much variety on Saffron’s menu that decision-making becomes a challenge. Like many Walla Walla residents, the Ainsworths are Seattle transplants who always dreamed of opening their own place. “We came to the city to taste wine, but once we arrived, Walla Walla embraced us,” he said. “Doors opened, and we realized it was a perfect fit for Saffron, a move that was meant to be.” Inside the restaurant, a fig tree extends leafy boughs over the tables, and 15-foot ceilings add to the sense of openness. Large windows overlook Walla Walla’s picturesque, tree-lined streets, and 300-year-old, arched metal gates, imported from Paris, add a Moorish vibe to a much-loved establishment with an enduring reputation for excellence.

1424 CORNWALL AVE. BELLINGHAM www.pureblissdesserts.com

330 W. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA www.saffronmediterraneankitchen.com

Yakima’s Ahtanum Berry Patch & Bakery is where you’ll find the dazzling razzleberry pie, a dish made with raspberries and blackberries from their own fields, combined with locally sourced apples. 2811 S. 74TH AVE. YAKIMA www.ahtanumberrypatch.com

PURE BLISS DESSERTS

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Blackberries on the Mind The sweet taste of nostalgia seasons these late-summer Northwest gems written by Corinne Whiting

FOR MANY who grew up in the Pacific Northwest, blackberry season brings along with it sweet childhood memories of summers gone by. Take Tony Vujovich, for example, co-owner and chef of Seattle neighborhood pizzeria The Local 104. He loves blackberries primarily for the nostalgia involved. “They remind me of childhood summers in Washington state,” he shared. “I went to Camp Houston in Gold Bar, Washington, as a kid, and we would make ice cream at the end of the camping season with the first blackberries in the season, picked riverside by the campers.”

Blackberries can be found throughout the state— either wild or cultivated. They also provide different flavor profiles, depending on their ripeness.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

Today he gets to share the delicious fruit with families dining at his welcoming Lake Forest Park eatery. “The wonderful thing about blackberries is the intensity of the flavor and the meatiness of the fruit,” he said. Their favorite blackberries come from Sidhu Farms located in Puyallup—a site that offers an amazing variety of berries. Blackberries are a member of the rose family, and not a berry in the botanical sense. “It is an aggregate fruit composed of small drupelets,” he said. “They love the acidic soils that are created by the copious Northwest rains.” The variety seen most often in the Northwest is the Himalayan blackberry, which can root off the tip of a cane. They grow the way a slinky moves, Vujovich explains, growing tall, falling over and rooting from the tip on the ground. “I fertilize all my cane berries with coffee grounds,” he said. “One of the differences between a raspberry and a blackberry is that the core (the torus) stays with the blackberry when you pick it.” Vujovich thinks the uniqueness of blackberries stems from their meaty, sweet and tart nature, which makes them excellent in a combination of both sweet and savory applications. “They are equally at home in a cobbler, a sauce for a strip steak or as a pickled garnish,” he said. Jack Bartleson, executive chef at Leavenworth’s Icicle Village Resort, appreciates this fruit for its versatility, too. At their scenic mountain getaway, his team sources from Skagit County’s Hayton Farms, a fifth-generation, family-run business that grows certified organic berries. Blackberries grow well in the moist and not-too-warm regions of the Pacific Northwest, and as the rich soil and heavy rain in Skagit and Thurston counties provide the perfect growing conditions, this region is home to many commercial berry farms. Bartleson also commends berries’ vast span of flavor, depending on the picking time and size of the berry. “This lends well to a variety of culinary applications,” he said. “They are also super high in antioxidants, making them a delicious and healthy part of our PNW summer menus.” Bartleson describes the taste profile as ranging anywhere from bright and tart, to deep and sweet. “Wild blackberries grow all over the Pacific Northwest and especially in the Leavenworth area where I live, so I’m lucky to happen upon blackberry bushes by just going for a walk through my neighborhood,” he said. “My favorite way to eat them is to pick them fresh and serve them over a quality vanilla ice cream.” He loves using the tart fruit from early in the season as a way to offset other sweet flavors in a jam or dessert. And really sweet fruit from later in the season proves an ideal addition to a creamy cheese appetizer or summertime salad. Vujovich advises that the best way to treat fresh blackberries is by using them as quickly as possible—water is their enemy. “Water creates an environment in layered blackberries that grows surface mold and speeds up their decay,” he said. “If you are not using them in a day or so, wash them, lay them out on a single layer on a cookie sheet, and freeze them. Once frozen, place berries in a freezer bag and store in the freezer

The Local 104

farm to table

Tony Vujovich, co-owner and chef of The Local 104 in Seattle, says the best way to eat blackberries is right away and atop a good vanilla ice cream.

for up to a year.” If baking with blackberries, don’t soak them in water, as this diminishes their flavor. Instead, a quick rinse is all they need. Beyond canning or preserving blackberries as jams or jellies, you can also pickle and dry them for extended shelf life—and to enhance different flavor profiles from the berries, Bartleson said. The opportunities for culinary creativity seem endless. To Vujovich, the intense sweet-tart flavor of blackberries always tastes like the end of summer. “It makes me melancholy for the end of summer—and excited for the fall,” he said. “Every year, I make a salted vanilla ice cream with blackberries. It reminds me of the hand-churned ice cream I made as a kid at Camp Houston.”

“[Blackberries] are equally at home in a cobbler, a sauce for a strip steak or as a pickled garnish.” — Tony Vujovich, The Local 104 co-owner and chef

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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Baked Feta with Honey and Pickled Blackberries

Icicle Village Resort / LEAVENWORTH Executive chef Jack Bartleson SERVES 4 FOR THE PICKLED BLACKBERRIES • 1 cup water • ¼ cup rice wine or cider vinegar • 2 tablespoons sugar • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • ¼ cup fresh or frozen blackberries

Blackberry Pinot Noir Sorbet.

Washington Recipes

The Amazing Life of Blackberries Blackberry Pinot Noir Sorbet

Drumheller’s Food & Drink, The Lodge at Columbia Point / RICHLAND Pastry chef Carissa Anders MAKES 1 QUART Approximately 6 servings

approximately 5 minutes. Set syrup aside to cool.

FOR THE SORBET SYRUP • 1½ cups water • 3 tablespoons corn syrup • 1 cup sugar

FOR THE BLACKBERRY PURÉE Place blackberries, sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan over low heat. Stir to combine, and break up the berries slightly. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, letting the blackberries release their juices and the sugar dissolve, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat once the blackberries are completely broken up, and pour into a fine mesh sieve placed over a bowl. Discard the seeds.

FOR THE BLACKBERRY PURÉE • 7 cups blackberries • ½ cup sugar • ¼ cup lemon juice FOR THE SORBET • 2 cups sorbet syrup (see recipe) • 3 cups blackberry purée (see recipe) • 1 tablespoon lime juice • ½ cup pinot noir FOR THE SORBET SYRUP Combine all ingredients for sorbet syrup in a saucepan, and bring to a simmer. Let simmer until sugar has dissolved,

FOR THE SORBET In a large pitcher or bowl, combine sorbet syrup, blackberry purée, lime juice and pinot noir. Whisk until thoroughly mixed. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker, and mix per directions. Once frozen, scoop and enjoy.

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FOR THE FETA • 1 8-ounce block of feta, preferably Greek, blotted dry • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1 tablespoon honey • Black pepper • 1 ounce pistachios, shelled, roasted and salted • Pickled blackberries (see recipe) • Sprig of fresh thyme, for garnish • 2 each pita bread, toasted and cut into wedges FOR THE PICKLED BLACKBERRIES In a 1-quart saucepan, add the water, vinegar, sugar and salt, and bring to just boiling over high heat. Remove from the heat, and let sit at a room temperature for 5 minutes. Transfer the brine to a 1-quart glass jar, and add the blackberries. Let sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours or overnight. FOR THE FETA Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Select a small, oven-to-table earthenware dish or a small ovenproof sauté pan. Place the feta in the dish, and cover with the olive oil. Bake until the cheese is soft and springy to the touch but not melted, about 8 minutes. Heat the broiler. Heat the honey in the microwave or over a pan of simmering water until it is fluid enough to be spread with a pastry brush. Paint the surface of the feta with it. Broil until the top of the cheese browns and just starts to bubble. Season to taste with black pepper, top with the pistachios and pickled blackberries and garnish with thyme. Serve immediately with pita wedges.

farm to table

Summer Peach Salad with Blackberry Vinaigrette and Herbed Goat Cheese The Hart and The Hunter, Palihotel / SEATTLE Chef Jon Maley SERVES 2 FOR THE SALAD • 3 ounces herbed goat cheese (see recipe) • 1 large peach + 1 half peach reserved from peach butter recipe • 5 ounces arugula • 1 small fennel bulb, thinly shaved • 3 ounces blackberry vinaigrette (see recipe) • 2 slices of Skagit Sourdough, toasted and sliced thin • 2 ounces smoked ricotta, grated • 1 pint blackberries • 1 ounce extra-virgin olive oil • Peach butter, for garnish (see recipe) FOR THE HERBED GOAT CHEESE • 3 ounces goat cheese • 4 sprigs thyme, chopped • 3 sprigs parsley, chopped • Zest of ½ lemon FOR THE PEACH BUTTER • 4 ounces granulated white sugar • Juice of 1 lemon (use the lemon that was zested for the goat cheese) • 1½ large peaches, deseeded and cut into cubes (reserve extra half peach for salad) • ½ spring onion, sliced thin • 3 ounces unsalted butter, cold and cubed • Salt to taste FOR THE BLACKBERRY VINAIGRETTE • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard • 3 ounces sherry vinegar • 1 tablespoon honey • 1 cup canola oil • 1 pint blackberries • Salt to taste FOR THE HERBED GOAT CHEESE Combine all ingredients, and set aside. FOR THE PEACH BUTTER Place sugar in sauce pot with lemon juice, and heat on medium-high heat. Once the

Summer Peach Salad with Blackberry Vinaigrette and Herbed Goat Cheese.

sugar dissolves, continue to stir to prevent burning the sugar. Once the sugar reaches about 330 degrees, there should be a yellow tint. Continue to cook until it reaches 338 degrees, or when the sugar turns to a tan color. Add peaches and onions, and turn heat down to a simmer. The peaches will cook slowly, releasing their juice into the sugar. Continue to cook until all liquid is cooked off. Transfer the peach mixture to a blender, and blend until smooth. Add cold butter, small pieces at a time. Once butter is added, add salt to taste, and reserve purée in fridge to set. FOR THE BLACKBERRY VINAIGRETTE Put mustard, sherry vinegar and honey in a blender, and blend until incorporated. Slowly add oil until desired viscosity is achieved. You can always add a splash of water to thin out the vinaigrette if needed.

When dressing is complete, add blackberries and pulse quickly, leaving large chucks of blackberries. Salt to taste. TO ASSEMBLE SALAD Place herbed goat cheese in the middle of the plate, and pat it down with your hands. Cut a peach in half, and take out the pit. With the half peach reserved from the peach butter recipe, place all three peach halves on separate sides of the goat cheese. Toss the arugula and fennel with blackberry vinaigrette. Place dressed salad in between the peaches. Toast the Skagit Sourdough in the oven for 5 minutes, at 350 degrees, with a drizzle of olive oil. Shave smoked ricotta on top of salad, and garnish with blackberries and broken pieces of the toasted Skagit Sourdough. Drizzle remaining olive oil over the peaches, and place some drops of peach butter on empty spaces on the plate.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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home + design

SEATTLE

A Mid-century Galley Kitchen Packs Happy Color AIMÉE O’CARROLL’S apartment building was constructed for the Seattle World’s Fair in 1962, making it the same age as the Space Needle, and filled with Mid-century flair. Think original parquet flooring and wall-to-wall windows in the units. O’Carroll, an architect and co-founding partner of local firm GO’C, stalked real estate listings for years before scoring a home there in 2018. Two years later, it was time to address the kitchen’s peeling vinyl floor, chipped countertops and the poor placement of the stove, sandwiched as it was between the sink and a wall, and beneath an electrical panel. During the pandemic lockdown, O’Carroll initiated a remodel.

Petite Perfection Kyle Johnson

Two small kitchens are remodeled for superior form and function

written by Melissa Dalton 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

Photos: Kyle Johnson

home + design

ABOVE, FROM LEFT In a small Seattle kitchen, Marmoleum floors complement blue Richlite counters. A custom metal shelf fits the aesthetic and makes needed space.

While the room was a small galley clocking about 64 square feet, O’Carroll didn’t want to knock out walls and enlarge it, which would disrupt the rest of the apartment’s flow. “The kitchen works nicely, even though it’s small, and I like the separation of spaces,” said O’Carroll, who instead saw the small footprint as a welcome challenge. “I decided to see what I could do with what was there, but try to make it function a lot better.” First up, relocating the range to the opposite wall. But that had its own constraints, stemming from the building’s construction. “You never know what you’re going to find in the walls,” said O’Carroll. “It turns out mine are made of mesh and mortar. There’s no framing, and they’re only about two-and-a-half inches thick.” To address this, the contractor had to fur out the wall to add new electrical, essentially shaving two more inches off the counter depth around the stove. “Every inch counts,” said O’Carroll. “But it makes such a difference to move that range that it was totally worth it.” Now, the new layout gives O’Carroll more counter on either side of the induction cooktop, as well as to the side of the sink on the opposite wall. A tall, counter-depth refrigerator saves more space, and isn’t an eyesore. (There’s a nearby pantry for additional storage.) For finishes, O’Carroll eschewed tile, so as not to have the visual clutter of grout lines in the small footprint. She instead 30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

opted for color blocking with single surfaces to add interest. Now, rich indigo-colored Marmoleum flooring syncs with deep blue Richlite counters and backsplash, while customized Reform cabinets with linoleum fronts offer a fun, contrasting green. The finishing details are, of course, small, but much like the kitchen itself, effective. They include integrated outlet covers in the backsplash and a bespoke metal shelf and rail. “It’s really handy,” said O’Carroll. “There’s a spot for everything.” SPOKANE

A Cottage Kitchen Both Useful and Beautiful There is a famous quote from 1880 British textile designer William Morris that reads: “Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.” For interior designer Emily Mejia of Emily Anne Interior Design, that attitude pretty much summed up her clients’ approach to the recent kitchen remodel in their 1947 cottage on South Hill in Spokane. “They really value simplicity,” said Mejia. “They didn’t want extravagance, but beauty in the utility of all of it.” To that end, Mejia started the design process by keeping the major fixtures essentially in place to save on budget costs, and just nudging the sink to make room for the refrigerator on the same wall. “We were

home + design

A fun twist on design is blue Richlite countertops paired with green-colored cabinets with linoleum fronts.

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31

“[The homeowners] really value simplicity. They didn’t want extravagance, but beauty in the utility of all of it.” — Emily Mejia, interior designer

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

This Spokane kitchen radiates beauty and utility with a dark and handsome offset.

Photos: Patrick Martinez

A small eating area gets lavish daylight and has a window bench for coffee and reading.

restricted not only by room size, but also by the location of items,” said Mejia. Choosing smaller appliances, like a single dishwasher drawer and counter-depth refrigerator, saved more space in the layout, while adding a panel to the front of the dishwasher and surrounding the refrigerator with cabinets seamlessly integrates them. Beauty and utility come together in many of the finishes, from the suite of white oak custom cabinetry by local carpenter Old Hat Workshop, to the porcelain-that-looks-like-limestone flooring and quartz counters. Other design moves make the room feel bigger, like carrying the cabinets up to the ceiling for additional storage capacity, adding a built-in bench at the window for the dining table and painting out the walls in a deep grayish-green color from Benjamin Moore. “I always feel like dark colors can really make a space feel bigger, even though that’s contrary to popular thought,” said Mejia. (The homeowners certainly love it, calling the color a cross between “moody library and tranquil forest.”) While the design brief meant Mejia couldn’t place the sink under the window, such constraints ultimately proved creative ground. Mejia joined a fluted sink with a quartz-and-beadboard backsplash, creating a wall of open shelving that displays the family’s collections. These include personal heirlooms, like candlesticks from a Ukrainian great-grandmother, and handmade ceramics bought in Montana, all of which get used daily. “I think all of these details could get lost in a big kitchen,” said Mejia. “There’s just something about the size that makes it work.” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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home + design

inch x 8-foot board cut into three lengths, each 2 feet long. Feel free to stain or paint the boards to your preferred color, or use reclaimed wood. Keep in mind that increasing the width or length of the boards might require additional supports to keep them from sagging once loaded. You will also need four swivel caster wheels. CUT AND FINISH THE WOOD Measure and cut the wood pieces, and finish with stain, sealer or paint. If using the cart for serving drinks or holding plants, consider applying a harder finish that will be more impervious to water stains, like a paint with a sheen. Make sure everything dries completely before proceeding. ASSEMBLE THE BOTTOM SHELF Using a drill, start by attaching a flange to each corner with screws. Next, add the 18-inch-long pieces of pipe to each flange, and when secure, twist on the next set of four flanges.

DIY

Build Your Own Rolling Bar Cart illustration by Jenna Lechner

A ROLLING CART can do many things: provide extra storage in the corner of a kitchen, roll up as a bar during a party, act as a plant stand or even travel to the back patio for extra serving space during a summer barbecue. And while we love carts of the vintage variety, sometimes you want something a little sturdier. This cart is made of wood and steel plumber’s pipe, as well as casters for mobility, and can be completed in a few hours from hardware store finds. MATERIALS AND DIMENSIONS This is a highly customizable project, depending on the finished size and look desired. It uses steel plumber’s pipe for the side supports and push handle. Just make sure that when purchasing the pipe, all of the lengths and fittings have the same diameter for ease of connection. This project uses pieces 34

with a ½-inch diameter, including eighteen flanges, four pre-cut pipes in two lengths (12 and 18 inches long), two elbows and three “nipples.” The latter pieces are for the push handle, with two that are 2 inches long and one measuring 8 inches long. For the two shelves and countertop, this tutorial uses a 1-inch x 12-

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

ADD THE MIDDLE SHELF Perhaps with an extra set of hands, flip the installation over so the top flanges can be set atop the middle shelf lying on the ground. Attach the flanges to the shelf, then flip it right side up. Set up the next shelf, this time using the 12-inch-tall pipe, making sure that when attaching the flanges in the corners, none of the screws meet each other and crack the wood. Add the top shelf, or counter. FINISH WITH WHEELS AND A HANDLE Attach the caster wheels to the bottom. The push handle will have a base of two flanges, each attached to a 2-inch-long nipple. Add elbows to the top of these, and finish with an 8-inch piece to connect them. And voila—now you can load up your cart and push it anywhere there’s a party.

home + design

Colorful Kitchenware In production since 1925, Le Creuset claims to be the first to bring colorful enameled cast iron cookware to market. All we know is that a hundred years later, the “flame” orange Dutch oven is a classic that deserves a spot in any kitchen. Use it to slow-cook, braise, roast, bake or fry—or, just let it sit pretty on the stovetop. www.lecreuset.com

GIR, short for Get It Right, is a kitchen tool brand founded by Samantha Rose, when she was facing a drawer full of frustrating tools that were apparently getting it all wrong. Rose decided to design her own, starting with the ideal spatula. It’s dishwasher safe (so no warping), heat resistant to 425 degrees and made from a single piece of nontoxic silicone. Try it, or the five-piece tool set, which includes a ladle, spatula, flipper, spoon and spoonula. www.gir.co

Even the electric kettle gets a makeover via an exclusive collaboration between Bodum and the Museum of Modern Art. They call it an “everyday object meets Postmodern sculpture,” but we like the chunky shape and unexpected color combinations. Choose between yellow/ lavender/green or sky blue/green/red.

A dish pattern and color are a long-term commitment—we get that. But mugs, here’s where we can have some fun, which is exactly how to describe the Maxmug from Hellerware. Designed by Lella and Massimo Vignelli in 1964, these mugs are made of Polystyrene (BPAand BPS-free), can be stacked in space-saving columns just in case the cabinet is overflowing (just us?) and come in a rainbow of colors.

www.store.moma.org

www.hellerfurniture.com

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

mind + body

Survivor and Thriver Dana Lawson pushes past challenges to complete a marathon, and more written by Lauren Kramer photography by Ronald Hope DANA LAWSON is an athlete who fulfilled a thirty-year dream of completing a marathon in June 2021—and she did it as an above-the-knee amputee. A CrossFit enthusiast who walks several miles a day, hikes and is presently training for a 10K race in Sequim, Lawson has experienced much more adversity over the course of her life than most. Despite everything, she remains defiantly optimistic, courageous and full of plans to complete her athletic goals and champion others who have survived just some of the challenges she’s had to face. Lawson was working in marine science education in the Florida Keys in her twenties, and training for her first marathon when she noticed a lump in her calf that turned out to be a rare cancer called desmoid tumors. It’s a disease that affects only two to four people out of every million. The doctors advised her to cut it out, but six months later, the tumors were back. “After multiple surgeries with the same results, we tried chemotherapy and experimental treatments, but nothing worked,” she recalled. “My medical team let me know that if I wanted to survive this, I needed to amputate, and that would give me an 80 percent chance of being cancer free.” In 2008, Lawson underwent amputation, calling it her “liberation surgery.” She applied for and received a grant for a running blade, and setting her sights on that marathon, started training. She was just shy of reaching the five-year cancer-free milestone when a scan revealed more bad news. The cancer had returned, this time in her hip and pelvis. “The marathon went on the back burner once again as I focused on surviving,” she said. “I realized that perhaps the marathon was a metaphor for my life. If I could survive this adversity, I was winning the marathon of my life.” Lawson went back on treatment, this time an experimental drug designed specifically for desmoid tumors, but one that was not approved by the FDA until November 2023. “It worked amazingly for me, reducing my tumor and giving me back a quality of life I was missing,” she said. “The challenge with this cancer is that it’s really hard to eliminate, so the ideal scenario is to find stability, mitigate the side effects and hopefully have the best quality of life.” Her treatments wrapped up in 2020, and right away, a friend suggested she start training for AT RIGHT Athlete and above-the-knee amputee Dana Lawson is an avid hiker, often hitting the trails near her home on the Olympic Peninsula.

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mind + body

“The marathon went on the back burner once again as I focused on surviving. I realized that perhaps the marathon was a metaphor for my life. If I could survive this adversity, I was winning the marathon of my life.” — Dana Lawson

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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mind + body

Dana Lawson Born: New Jersey Lives: Port Angeles Age: 51

NUTRITION “I love vegetables and healthy food. Nutrition is super important for me because my body is atypical, so I consume more energy than other people. Above-the-knee amputees like myself burn on average three times as much energy as able-bodied people when we do activity. I focus on my macro distribution of protein, carbs and fats, but making sure I get enough protein is a daily challenge.”

INSPIRATION “Vasu Sojitra is an above-the-knee amputee who uses forearm crutches like me. He’s the first disabled person who has ever climbed Denali and skied down it, and he was doing all the crazy things I wanted to do on crutches! We struck up a friendship in 2020, and he advised, inspired and encouraged me throughout my marathon training.”

Dana Lawson completed the North Olympic Discovery Marathon in June 2021.

the marathon. With a tumor still wrapped around her sciatic nerve in her hip and pelvis, Lawson could not comfortably wear a prosthesis. Instead, she purchased a brand of crutches called SideStix and began a training regimen. “It takes a lot of core training to become proficient on SideStix, and when I first started using them I couldn’t even get to the mailbox at the end of my driveway,” she said. Accompanied by three friends, though, she began walking, gradually adding more distance. Eventually they were walking 3 miles per hour. Lawson was training not just during Covid, but also during a marriage defined by domestic violence. In 2019, after being violently attacked by her husband, she escaped the marriage, living on her own for the first time as a disabled person with cancer. “Education and advocacy have always been very important to me, and once I untangled the psychological terror I’d been living with, I wanted to advocate for and raise awareness about domestic violence,” she said. The June 2021 marathon was her opportunity. Lawson and her friends emblazoned their shirt backs with statistics about domestic violence, using the publicity she was already receiving as an above-theknee, cancer-surviving athlete to promote further awareness. “We took this dark subject that’s often shamed and blamed, and brought it into the limelight,” she said. Her marathon, too, was a journey from darkness to light. In order to complete it on

38 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

time, she and her team began their competition at 2 a.m. Eleven hours later, they crossed the finish line of the North Olympic Discovery Marathon. It was an extraordinarily emotional, unforgettable moment for Lawson, and for the many people who had heard of her struggle and were cheering her on. “There were so many things that could have gone wrong in the preparation for that marathon, but didn’t,” she said. “I believe this was my time to do this race, a race that was about my own personal twentyyear journey with cancer and, ultimately, my survival.”

Courtesy of Dana Lawson

“I’m a CrossFit junkie four days a week, and I also walk several miles a day, hike and backpack. Right now I’m training for Run the Peninsula, a 10K run that I’ve participated in for the past three years.”

Courtesy of Dana Lawson

WORKOUT

Also a CrossFit junkie, Lawson hits the gym regularly.

Enjoy Olympic Peninsula • Explore • Relax

• Refresh

Summer at its

Finest

Endless acres of adventure and miles of memories await on the Olympic Peninsula.

From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com

STARTUP 42 MY WORKSPACE 46

pg. 48 CultureSeed’s mission and passion bring new adventures to rural kids.

CultureSeed

GAME CHANGER 48

ENTERTAIN – ENGAGE – INSPIRE

Season

Information and Tickets at MyrtleWoldsonCenter.org 211 East DeSmet Avenue, Spokane 509-313-2787 (ARTS), WA 99202 SCAN TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE 2024-25 SEASON

startup

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startup Scott Carty, owner and founder of bAckspace Sheds, launched the custom design-build company to help create space solutions during the pandemic.

Space Maker How one Seattleite’s pandemic pivot turned into a thriving design-build business written by Rachel Gallaher photography by Jason Redmond

IN THE SPRING of 2020, after nearly three decades in the news media industry, Seattleite Scott Carty abruptly found himself looking for work. Like many with jobs that relied on travel and in-person meetings, Carty—who had recently left his position as a contemporary Christian radio DJ but spent years before that on the movie interview junket—watched as the pandemic raged on and work dried up. After several months of lockdown, when it was clear we were in it for the long haul, Carty noticed people were struggling with space. Suddenly thrown into isolation, friends and family, especially those with children, were trying to navigate working from home, guiding their kids through remote school and maintaining a peaceful household where everyone was now at home—all the time. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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startup

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Scott Carty stands in the bAckspace Sheds shop in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood.

startup

ABOVE Scott Carty works on an outdoor dining shelter at the restaurant How to Cook a Wolf in Seattle’s Queen Anne neighborhood in July.

Amid the chaos, Carty saw an opportunity. A longtime home handyman who enjoys tinkering with tools, solving problems and helping people, he decided to launch a custom designbuild company, bAckspace Sheds, to provide homeowners extra square footage that might alleviate the overcrowding many felt at the time. Whether an office, artist studio or backyard retreat, Carty knew people were desperate for more space, and with a little bit of creativity and grit, he could provide it. “At one point, I was telling my kids that in historical times, like the Great Depression, great companies were built in places where there was a need,” Carty said. “During the pandemic, people were stockpiling toilet paper, and households were bursting at the seams. Families were trying to survive, juggling who worked at the dining table and who got the office if they had one. No one had fathomed up to that point that we would need designated spaces at home for everyone to work.” Before he had even officially formed the company, Carty already had a project on the books. “I had mentioned the idea to a friend,” he recalled, “and they mentioned it to another friend, and, eventually, a local ad exec contacted me about creating a backyard office where he could work, but also practice Olympicstyle weight lifting.” Carty admits that when he started, he was in over his head, suddenly having to navigate the business side of things—permitting, taxes, project management—and operate in a way that would eventually be profitable (he underpriced and underestimated the time needed for his first project). “I look at it like a master’s program,” he said of the experience. And four years later, he’s still going strong, with a number of ADUs, detached offices, converted garages and, now, backyard saunas on the books. If you ate at a local restaurant during the pandemic, chances are you encountered Carty’s work. He’s responsible for a number of the outdoor, covered dining shelters throughout the city, from those at Ethan Stowell’s How to Cook a Wolf and Staple & Fancy to Ballard’s Kiss Café and the Mountaineering Club rooftop bar and restaurant. As seating restrictions and social distancing limited a restaurant’s patron numbers, these covered pergolas provided a

slick and fairly affordable solution to safely maintain customers. Many of these structures are still in use today, enhancing the dining experience and providing establishments with extra outdoor seating perfect for a sunny Pacific Northwest summer. Although the pandemic has long cooled, for Carty, who operates out of an industrial space in Ballard, business is heating up. He’s working on a large waterfront residential project in Gig Harbor and has a few backyard saunas on the books. Ultimately, Carty sees bAckspace Sheds as a way to help people. “I’m often asked about the name, bAckspace Sheds,” he said. “And I found it to be very versatile in the sense that we are literally often building in the space at the back of your property, but we’re giving you back space as well—whether that’s for storage, personal wellness or artistic creation. I get so much joy out of seeing people enjoy our work. At the end of the day, it doesn’t get much better than that.”

“During the pandemic, people were stockpiling toilet paper, and households were bursting at the seams. Families were trying to survive, juggling who worked at the dining table and who got the office if they had one. No one had fathomed up to that point that we would need designated spaces at home for everyone to work.” — Scott Carty, bAckspace Sheds owner and founder

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my workspace

USL Spokane

Free Kicks Marketing maverick Katie Harnetiaux brings her skills to Spokane’s soccer scene written by Joni Kabana

When high schooler Katie Harnetiaux signed up to be a summer camp counselor at Spokane’s YMCA Camp Reed, little did she know that one day she would marry a fellow camp counselor named Ryan and become the owner of two professional soccer teams. Through the years of their marriage, Harnetiaux held various roles (including her favorite: mother to their three children), and ended up as head of retail marketing for Amazon before taking the leap into co-ownership of the Spokane Zephyr and Velocity FC (football club) teams, now serving as the president of United Soccer League Spokane.

Harnetiaux’s workday is all-encompassing, requiring extended hours and a constant flow of ideas, but she makes balancing work with time for her family a priority. “When I start to feel overwhelmed, I know it’s time to recalibrate and re-center,” she said. “It’s not a perfect science. I mess up all the time! We have a cabin in the woods. My favorite thing to do is go there with my family, make a fire, a great dinner and play cards with my kids. I love it when my cheeks hurt from laughing. Those four people fill up my cup more than anything else!” Living with a “love big, cheer loud, be brave, you’ve got this!” philosophy, Harnetiaux relays that if she has a secret desire to learn to play guitar and be a singer in a band, and maybe be a bartender for a night or two. “Basically, I would like to try my twenties in my late forties!” she said.

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USL Spokane

Leo M. Harnetiaux

Harnetiaux combined her honed marketing and branding skills with her insatiable passion for women’s sports and set a goal to fill stadiums with two teams built on equitable pay and shared values of hard work, dedication to craft and mutual respect. Harnetiaux is painfully aware of the sacrifices professional athletes make to rise to such skilled levels, and she not only ensures their participation runs smoothly, but she also has taken great strides in making sure the “fan experience” also includes an awareness of what it takes to be a professional team player.

FROM TOP Katie Harnetiaux, co-owner of the Spokane Zephyr and Velocity football clubs and president of United Soccer League Spokane. Katie with husband Ryan Harnetiaux. ONE Spokane Stadium, home to Spokane’s soccer teams.

E XH I B I T O P E N S FA L L 2 0 24

Cedar and Sea

THE MARITIME CULTURE OF THE INDIGENOUS COASTAL PEOPLE OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

ON THE WATERFRONT IN DOWNTOWN ASTORIA • CRMM.ORG

game changer CultureSeed gets rural kids out into the healing natural world for new adventures.

Nature Guides CultureSeed connects young people with the benefits of being outdoors written by Daniel O’Neil

THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE naturally serves as a wellspring of health for those who recreate there. Body, mind and spirit find renewal in the area’s trails, waters and slopes. Yet while access to the outdoors is convenient, not all Gorge residents can easily take advantage of what the place offers. Rural youth especially find it difficult. Equipment, instruction and even transportation raise barriers that for many seem insurmountable, so CultureSeed leads the way. 48

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Since 2017, CultureSeed has brought local youth into the outdoors where they can experience the inspiring and healing qualities of the great river and her flanks. Working with three schools in Klickitat and Skamania counties, CultureSeed offers free outdoor immersion and mental health programming to youth ages 13 to 18 and sometimes beyond. Programs last one year, but participants can continue with CultureSeed year after year. Currently, the nonprofit serves eighty-one youth, half of whom identify as BIPOC, and many of whom come from lowerincome families. Co-executive director Yesenia Castro figures that about 80 percent of participating youth had never engaged with the outdoors before they joined CultureSeed, mostly due to cost. “The Gorge is a very expensive place to live, but there’s still a large percentage of low-income youth that do not have access to all of the play that attracts most of the residents here,” she said. “So they experience a lot of those activities with us for the first time.” CultureSeed works in several ways, from casual weekly meetups where participants connect with a facilitator and then head

Photos: CultureSeed

game changer

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Kotah Kuneki participates in a whitewater rafting outing with CultureSeed on the Deschutes River. A U.S. Forest Service ranger teaches CultureSeed participants Ximena, Zandra and Malyssa about scat identification and Turtle Haven restoration.

out for a walk, to full-immersion outings of all sorts. Working with partner outfitters, CultureSeed helps make Gorge-based activities like snowboarding, mountain biking, whitewater rafting and backpacking possible. Nature offers refuge and relief from many of life’s pressures, and in the case of today’s youth that can include smartphone dependence. Multiday backpacking trips guarantee disconnection from cell service. “The youth are telling us that they’re letting go of their phone for the first time, which is really hard,” Castro said. “But they also say they’re finding a lot of benefits to just being in nature, like less stress and anxiety. By the end of the trip, they’re like, ‘Wow, we want to stay for longer.’ And they forget about the phone.” Emotional health also plays into CultureSeed’s offerings. By partnering directly with local therapists, one-on-one therapy is available to participants at no cost. “We live in an area that is very, very much underserved with mental health providers,” Castro said. “But we’re getting a lot of therapists that are already in the Gorge because they are also doing some sort of recreational activity. And then they’re finding us and saying, ‘Oh, perfect.’” As youth gain skills and experience in the programs, they can become peer guides on CultureSeed outings. This forms part of another aspect of CultureSeed’s offerings by helping prepare youth to work in the outdoors economy, and it can lead to internships with local outfitters. For the past five years, Joanna Turner has watched her daughter grow under CultureSeed’s wing. Turner lives with her children in Trout Lake, a half-hour drive north of the Columbia River. Public transport is minimal, and entertainment centers like the bowling alley and rollerskating rink have closed. So CultureSeed provides transportation from the front door to the outdoors and back, which makes life easier for parents, too.

Knowing that her daughter is engaged in healthy, sober activities brings Turner peace of mind. “What’s good for youth also supports the family and our community,” Turner said. “So when these kids are given opportunities to get outdoors, to learn actual hands-on skills that not only build confidence but give them something to rely on, it’s good for everybody.”

“The youth are telling us that they’re letting go of their phone for the first time, which is really hard. But they also say they’re finding a lot of benefits to just being in nature, like less stress and anxiety. By the end of the trip, they’re like, ‘Wow, we want to stay for longer.’ And they forget about the phone.” — Yesenia Castro, CultureSeed co-executive director

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FARM STANDS WORTH A DAY TRIP FROM SEATTLE

arm F

Fresh written by Ryn Pfeuffer

Garden Treasures near Arlington is a treat for the taste buds. (photo: Eva Seelye)

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Summer beckons road trips, and Washington’s scenic routes uncover charming farm stands where you can satisfy your fresh fruit and produce cravings with some just-picked goodness. Typically located at or near the farm, these stands range from permanent fixtures to quaint roadside tables overflowing with the day’s harvest. The prime seasons to visit are the late summer and early fall, offering a bounty of produce and the excitement of pumpkin patches and apple picking. These farm stands provide a glimpse into the region’s culinary life and showcase the ingredients local chefs are likely putting on their menus. Washington’s 15 million acres of farmland produce more than 300 different crops (ranking second in the nation, by the way), ensuring farm-fresh produce is within reach nearly year-round. So, pack a cooler, hit the road and experience the charm of Washington’s farm stands on these four unforgettable road trips, plus a handful of U-pick farms for the DIYers.

Washington ranks second in the U.S. for variety of crops, making farm stands a diverse shopping experience. (photo: Eva Seelye)

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The family-run Remlinger Farms near Carnation includes a Fun Park with rides, U-pick berries and pumpkins and even a brewery. (photo: Jackie Dodd)

Remlinger Farms Escape the hustle and bustle of Seattle with a scenic drive to Remlinger Farms, just off I-90, for a quintessential weekend day trip. Conveniently located near Snoqualmie Falls, this family-run haven for agrotourism offers a variety of activities for all ages. Start your adventure by hand-picking ripe strawberries or raspberries on the 350-acre working farm. Many families return yearly for the Fall Harvest Pumpkin Festival to ride the “flying pumpkins,” munch on pumpkin piespiced mini donuts and take home a few pumpkins from the U-pick patch. At the café, enjoy a fresh salad with vegetables that have traveled only about 100 yards from the farm to the kitchen, or warm up on crisp fall days with a bowl of the hearty Famous 17 Bean Soup. There’s also a wine bar and brewery for thirsty adults. Thrill-seekers can’t miss the Mine Twister roller coaster at the seasonal Fun Park, while leisurely hayrides offer a calmer experience. For a musical treat, Remlinger has a new concert venue that hosts live performances, like Kaleo and The String Cheese Incident, all against a rustic farm backdrop. Before you leave, visit the bustling market and pick up one of Remlinger’s legendary marion blackberry pies. You can also buy the same fruit that goes into the pies—flashfrozen—and plenty of preserved items like fruit salsas, fruit butters and sauces. The cherry salsa and apple blueberry butter are incredibly delicious. While weekends tend to attract bigger crowds and longer lines, weekdays offer a quieter experience for folks who prefer exploring at a less rushed pace. Even during peak times, there’s ample parking. GO: 32610 NE 32nd St., Carnation / 425-333-4135 / www.remlingerfarms.com

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Whatcom County’s apple experience at Bellewood Farms. (photo: Bellewood Farms)

U-PICK FARMS & FALL FUN Get ready for a day of farm-fresh fun at U-pick farms! From picking your own produce to enjoying a plethora of outdoor activities, these farms offer endless family fun. Remember to leave your furry friends at home, as most farms are not pet-friendly. Bring cash for purchases just in case, and wear sturdy, waterproof footwear. After all, it’s the Pacific Northwest—you can never be too prepared for wet weather.

Bellewood Farms

BIRINGER FARM

If you’re seeking an apple-filled adventure, look no further than Bellewood Farms, found in Lynden amid the fertile landscapes of Whatcom County. Spanning 31 acres with incredible views of Mount Baker (plus an additional 15 acres in Ferndale), Bellewood Farms attracts visitors far and wide with its apple orchards boasting 25,000 trees and twentytwo varieties of apples and pears. Annually, the farm harvests an impressive 1.7 million pounds of apples. Renowned for its premier Honeycrisp apples—a favorite among apple pie bakers and enthusiasts—and Washington’s coveted Cosmic Crisp apples, Bellewood Farms invites visitors to partake in their U-pick experiences. Starting each Labor Day weekend through October, you can wander the orchards and pick your own apples. But the fun doesn’t stop where the trees end. Explore the farm store, offering a lovely array of locally made home goods and snacks. Pro tip: Watch for Bellewood’s Washington apple green tea—a local favorite. Relax at the cozy café with an apple cider slushy, or treat yourself to a slice of Dutch apple pie. Indulge in the famous apple cider donuts and apple fritters, or sample a variety of spirits, including the distinctive Honeycrisp vodka, at the on-site distillery. For a peaceful respite, stroll along the forested nature trail by Ten Mile Creek—a shaded, family-friendly path that crosses a tranquil creek. Don’t miss the corn maze, and if you’ve brought your dog along, enjoy the dog-friendly lawn areas behind the patio. GO: 6140 Guide Meridian Road, Lynden / 360-318-7720 / www.bellewoodfarms.com

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ARLINGTON Biringer Farm delights visitors with its U-pick strawberries and raspberries and seasonal family activities such as hayrides and farm tours. www.biringerfarm.com

BROERS FARM

SUNNYSIDE Enjoy a fun day picking delicious cherries, apricots, peaches and nectarines at this farm, where sustainable farming practices reign supreme. Find Broers Farms Inc. on Facebook

SWANS TRAIL FARMS

SNOHOMISH Famous for its apple picking and pumpkin patch, this farm offers an exciting experience with a corn maze, petting farm and other fall activities. www.swanstrailfarms.com Pro Tip: Check Washington’s fruit and herb chart and vegetable and legume chart to see what’s in season. If visiting a U-pick farm, many provide containers for your selections, but some do not. Bring your containers and an ice-packed cooler to keep your finds fresh, especially when traveling to the warmer regions of Central and Eastern Washington.

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With its huge greenhouse space, Garden Treasures has a lot to offer through its farm stand, from fresh-grown veggies to local fruit and honey. (photo: Eva Seelye)

Garden Treasures Whether you’re a food enthusiast, nature lover or gardening aficionado, Garden Treasures offers more than just fresh produce—it’s a journey into sustainable agriculture and the local flavor of the Skagit Valley. Sixteen thousand square feet of greenhouse space boast more than 100 varieties of certified organic crops, available for U-pick adventures from March through December. In August, you can pick sweet peppers and heirloom and slicer tomatoes, and cut flowers. September brings tomatoes, green beans, strawberries, Russian kale and hot and poblano peppers. Choose from tomatoes, gourds, fall greens, herbs, squash and beets in October. Year-round, heirloom tomatoes, specialty cucumbers and fragrant basil flourish. At the heart of the property is its inviting farm stand, brimming with freshly harvested vegetables (Garden Treasures grows 75 percent of it themselves), incredible peaches, plums, apples, pears and nectarines from Smallwood Farms in Okanogan, as well as locally grown eggs, dairy, meat and seasonally wild-foraged products like morel mushrooms. You can also purchase local honey, artisan meats, fresh flower bouquets or individual flowers from their fields. Make time to stroll the farm walk, designed for all ages to enjoy, and learn about the eco-friendly farming practices. GO: 3328 WA-530, Arlington / 360-435-9272 / www.gardentreasuresfarm.com

Snow Goose Produce adds fresh-caught Dungeness crab and king salmon to the mix. (photo: Snow Goose Produce)

Snow Goose Produce Located on a winding rural road on Fir Island on the outskirts of Mount Vernon, Snow Goose Produce is a beloved farm stand cherished by locals and tourists alike. Operating seasonally from March 1 through the first weekend of October, it’s a mecca of fresh, local foodstuffs that embody the essence of the Pacific Northwest. Whether stocking up on local delicacies or simply enjoying the ambience, it’s well worth a stop—and, if you want ice cream, the wait. From freshly caught Dungeness crab and troll-caught king salmon fillets to chilled oysters on ice and fresh meat, customers will find every provision they need for a picnic or a fullblown feast. If they haven’t sold out, pick up an artisan baguette from nearby Breadfarm, a bouquet of fresh-cut flowers or an assortment of Snow Goose jellies and preserves—perfect companions for cheeses on a charcuterie board. Oh, and they sell local cheeses, too. Check out Snow Goose’s curated beer and wine section, featuring bottles from Washington’s finest producers and beyond. Then, treat yourself to an “immodest” scoop of ice cream from their renowned counter. Approximately fifty flavors from Lopez Island Creamery and Cascade Glacier are served, and each scoop is generously sized. (Note: The ice cream stand is cash only.) GO: 15170 Fir Island Road, Mount Vernon / 360-445-6908 / www.snowgooseproducemarket.com

Greenhouses house flowers, tomatoes, peppers and more. (photo: Eva Seelye)

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Patricia Lara runs Garden Treasures with husband Mark Lovejoy. (photo: Eva Seelye)

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Biking through the lower reaches of the stunning Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park.

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THE

COUNTRY’S GREATEST

RIDE

BY ROAD BIKE OR E-BIKE, GLACIER’S GOING-TO-THE-SUN IS A TOP AMERICAN JOURNEY THROUGH TIME + ELEVATION written by Kevin Max photography by Whitney Whitehouse

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One of the many spectacular overlooks along Glacier’s National Park’s Going-tothe-Sun Road.

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OME PEOPLE HAVE HEARD ABOUT THE GOING-TO-THE-SUN ROAD AND MAKE PLANS TO CYCLE IT AND TRAIN FOR MONTHS TO BE FIT ENOUGH TO GAIN THE SUSTAINED VERTICAL FEET TO THE TOP. OTHERS HAVE LISTENED TO THEIR MOST ATHLETIC (AND SOMEWHAT NAUSEATING) FRIENDS RECALL WITH LAUGHTER THE 3,200-FOOT CLIMB TO THE TOP OF LOGAN PASS. “I WAS PUSHING 275 WATTS AT THE SUMMIT, MAN!” STILL OTHERS MAY COMPLETELY TUNE OUT ONE OF GLACIER NATIONAL PARK’S MOST SPECTACULAR EXPERIENCES BECAUSE IT’S SIMPLY BEYOND THEIR PHYSICAL LIMIT.

On a summer morning last year, I joined a group of riders who fit into each one of these profiles on a push for this Glacier experience. Half of us were on bicycles—road bikes—the other half were on e-bikes. Our hybrid crew could not have been more inclusive and fun. Let’s face it, homogenous culture is but a mirror that gets you no further in life than your own reflection. Road bikers can quickly become inbred as thoroughly as e-bikers can. In a way, the combination of these cultures is perfect for when this epic pass opens to non-motorized traffic in spring. When snow is still being cleared, there are upper portions of Going-to-the-Sun Road open to bikers and closed to automobiles. (Keep your eye on the Glacier National Park website.) If you can thread that needle, this is your clean-air, wildly scenic, wildlifeencountering outdoor release. This also recounts my experience. First, a brief note on e-bikes. It wasn’t until right around the year 2000 when e-bikes started showing up on roads out west. True road bikers were aghast, mountain bikers were chaffed and e-bikers were living their best lives. These were the early days, and no one trusted anyone.

Today, the technology of e-bikes has become sophisticated, quiet and sustained, bringing access to experiences like this to people who would normally be left back at the bakery, missing the opportunity to become another advocate for the outdoors. Going-to-the-Sun Road, 25 miles east of Whitefish, Montana, appears as a vertical challenge, a rite of passage, a scenic tour that winds up to Logan Pass at 6,646 feet. A drop of rain that fell on the east side of Logan Pass would flow toward the Atlantic Ocean. A drop that fell a few inches over on the west side would end up thousands of miles away in the Pacific. Going-to-the-Sun Road is 50 miles long and the only paved road to traverse the width of Glacier. For us, this ride would begin at Apgar Campground just inside the West Glacier entrance and climb approximately 29 miles to the apex at Logan Pass. A good rule of thumb is seven hours from parking lot to peak and back. The weather for riding could not have been better—cool morning for the climb and warmer afternoon for the descent. To set yourself up for success, begin your day early at Markus Community Market in Whitefish. You’ll find

breakfast burritos, bagels and coffee to get your morning started. Plan for a mid-ride lunch and a summit snack. There are gourmet wraps, chips and chocolate to pack for the ride. Fill your water bottles and shove off for Apgar Campground. Note that you’ll need passes for the park, which you should obtain in advance as their daily numbers are limited. Think of your clothing as cyclical. You’ll want to begin in something that keeps you warm enough as you begin to slowly warm up along the first stretch that borders Lake McDonald. Beyond McDonald, the pitch of the road increases and your internal temperature with it, if you’re on a road bike. Those on e-bikes should also dress in layers and for comfort. Mountain temperatures are almost always cooler than the weather readings in the lower towns. As you emerge from the riverine canopy, you’ll begin to understand why this ride is one of the most beautiful muses for those on two wheels out under Montana blue skies and among the snowy peaks of the Rockies. It’s a sporting and gorgeous 12 miles past Lake McDonald to The Loop, miraculously the only switchback along the mountain road.

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In 1918, National Park Service engineer George Goodwin drew the plans for the daring feat that would become Going-to-the-Sun Road. Ultimately, his plan had too many switchbacks to become the mellifluous beauty that others had envisioned. Thomas Vint, a National Park Service landscape architect, had a different vision that called for sweeping lengths and just one switchback up to Logan Pass. The Park Service engaged Frank Kittredge of the Bureau of Public Roads to lead the Herculean effort to build the newly designed road with only one switchback. Kittredge began in 1924. A vision of a national treasure was already underway, as Congress had begun providing annual funds for the road’s construction in the early 1920s. Kittredge and his crew of thirty-two men climbed on foot 3,000 feet some mornings to reach the road survey sites. In the first three months, Kittredge saw men abandon at a 300 percent rate, according to one National Park Service history. The Loop switchback has facilities and a parking lot, and it’s where we stopped for lunch before the last steeper push to the top. It wasn’t long into the final leg that a four-legged creature ambled out of the roadside underbrush. A young black bear seemed more interested in his own life pursuits than stopping to mingle with any of us. Farther up the road, you can’t miss Bird Woman Falls, a 500-foot cascading waterfall in the saddle between Mount Oberlin and Mount Cannon. One of Glacier’s biggest falls, Bird Woman will remind you to take a moment to drink your own water as you continue your climb. There is no shortage of water on this road. Farther on, cool meltwater pours broadly and gently out of a rock wall on the left side of the road. Weeping Wall is a geological formation that might otherwise be confused with a man-made

contrivance put there for overheated cyclists as they approach the summit. Best practice here is to dismount and walk under the falling water and the slick surface underfoot. Logan Pass arrives on a breeze and sense of accomplishment. From the parking lot, it’s not difficult to spy mountain goats lolling on the distant mountainside. Their ancestors from the 1930s would have been astounded enough to stop the ruminants mid-grass as music floated across the mountain meadows to where they stood. In 1933, Going-to-the-Sun Road opened to a chorus of Civilian Conservation Corps members and the Blackfeet Tribal Band who played The Star Spangled Banner for nearly 4,000 people atop Logan Pass. There is natural memory in the surrounding granite, in some musical DNA micro-mutations of the resident mountain goats and in the breeze that conducts its own woodwind sonata. Take time to celebrate the victories, the beauty, the small things, the natural, and one of the finest journeys for either bike or e-bike tribes. After the Conservation Corps chorus and Blackfeet Tribe played The Star Spangled Banner, it was followed by a ceremony of peace between the Blackfeet, Flathead and Kootenai tribes. A photo from the Montana Historical Society from that time shows Blackfeet Indians in tribal dress, some on horseback, and mingling with white people outside of a line of impressive tipis. Not all celebrations will feel exactly the same, but they will resonate and tingle as you begin your descent from Logan Pass to the baptism waters of Weeping Wall, past Bird Woman Falls to The Loop’s single switchback, the canopy along Lake McDonald and taking the form of a furtive smile as you drive back to Whitefish, where good food and drink taste even better in the cool mountain nights.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Descending Going-to-the-Sun Road. The refreshing Weeping Wall for a quick cooldown. A juvenile black bear made a brief appearance. In the distance, Bird Woman Falls. Success at the Logan Pass summit.

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Other Spectacular Bike + E-bike Journeys GALENA SUMMIT

Smiley Creek Lodge to Galena Lodge out and back // Idaho This adventure begins at Smiley Creek Lodge just north and over Galena Summit, climbing almost 2,000 feet in the first 4 miles before a long scenic descent to Galena amid the Boulder Mountains. Galena Lodge has a great cafe for lunch and drinks before making the return trip.

MCKENZIE HIGHWAY Sisters // Oregon

One of the true rites of passage in Central Oregon is riding the McKenzie Pass just after the snow is cleared and before automobile traffic is permitted. This takes place usually in May and until the gate is opened for cars the third week of June. Those who take on this scenic byway aspire to ride from Sisters to McKenzie Bridge and back in a massive 76-mile effort with 4,000 feet of climbing. Sisters is a perfect fueling station in the morning at Sisters Bakery or Angeline’s Bakery, and cross the finish line at Three Creeks Brewing.

HURRICANE RIDGE

Olympic Peninsula // Washington A challenging and wonderfully scenic route, Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park begins in Port Angeles and climbs through old-growth forest for 18 miles and 5,242 feet up to Hurricane Ridge and sweeping views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. At nearly a mile above sea level, Hurricane Ridge also offers panoramic views of the Bailey Range of the Olympic Mountains. The day lodge burned to the ground in May 2023, but Washington Sen. Patty Murray had secured $80 million for its rebuild by October of the same year. Plan to self support during this ride. photos, from top: Visit Idaho; Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast; Lynnette Braillard/Visit Port Angeles

2024

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A FEAST FOR THE

EYES written by Kerry Newberry

ONE OF THE most universal and expressive topics through time is food. It’s no wonder why artists often use the lens of food to evoke meaningful stories and conversations. The Art of Food, a touring exhibition from the collections of Jordan D. Schnitzer and his Family Foundation, is a magnificent feast for the senses. Curated by Olivia Miller, the exhibition showcases more than 100 works in a variety of mediums including drawings, paintings, sculptures and ceramics from thirty-seven artists. On view, you’ll find work by some of the most prominent artists of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries (Roy Lichtenstein, David Hockney and Andy Warhol) along with pieces by celebrated Northwest artists like Chris Antemann, Malia Jensen and Sherrie Wolf. An ardent collector and art lover, one of Schnitzer’s ultimate goals is to democratize art and ensure it’s accessible to all. To that end, the foundation has organized more than 160 exhibitions and counting. The Art of Food has been touring for three years, and the Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art WSU is the final stop, running August 20 through March 8, 2025. For more information about the exhibit and related events, visit www.museum.wsu.edu.

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FROM FAR LEFT David Gilhooly (American, 1943-2013), Lite/Late Lunch, 1983, painted and glazed ceramic and wood, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Aaron Wessling Photography, Courtesy of Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation Sherrie Wolf (American, b. 1952), First Harvest, 2016, oil on canvas, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Aaron Wessling Photography, Courtesy of Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Katherine Ace (American, 1953-2023), Crop Circles 2, 2008, oil, alkyd, mixed media on canvas, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Aaron Wessling Photography, Courtesy of Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation John Baldessari (American, 1931-2020), WHISKEY IN THE JAR, edition 35/50, 2018, screenprint, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Courtesy of Gemini G.E.L. Joseph Beuys (German, 1912-1986), Capri Battery (CapriBatterie), edition AP 49/50, 1985, light bulb, plug socket and artificial lemon, wooden box with screenprint, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Aaron Wessling Photography, Courtesy of Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation, © 2024 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn

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FROM FAR LEFT Neal Ambrose-Smith (Native American, Salish-Kootenai, MétisCree, Sho-Ban, b. 1966), The World According to Monsanto, from Terrain: Plateau Native Art & Poetry, edition 29/92, 2014, relief print, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Strode Photographic, Courtesy of Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation Chris Antemann (American, b. 1970), Fruit Pyramid, edition 2/10, 2014, Meissen porcelain, Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer, photo: Aaron Wessling Photography, Courtesy of Jordan Schnitzer Family Foundation

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ADVENTURE 72 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84

pg. 72 Chihuly Garden and Glass and other cultural attractions to see before the year ends.

Chihuly Garden and Glass

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 70

ROAM

E-Bike E-Bike the the Art Art Mural Mural Trail, Trail, Venture Venture into into the the Downtown Downtown Underground Underground or or View View Artifacts Artifacts from from an an Ancient Ancient Native Native Village Village Framed by of largest Framed by of largest Framed by one one of the the largest Framed by one one of the the largest National Parks, find bold National Parks, find bold National Parks, find bold National Parks, find bold nature connected with nature connected with nature with nature connected connected with small small town town vibes. vibes. small town small town vibes. vibes.

See See All All Art Art & Culture &a Culture Get GetActivities a free free Activities travel travel guide! guide!

travel spotlight

Don’t miss the scenic Sol Duc Falls during your visit.

A Pristine Playground

Hiking trails, hot springs and old-growth forest in the Sol Duc River Valley written by Joni Kabana WHEN VISITING the Olympic Peninsula, consider checking out its longest river, the pristine Sol Duc River, which flows for 7 miles supporting soaring old-growth forests and feeding hot springs along the way. This river has no dam, making the water quality some of the purest one can find. Salmonids such as spring/summer chinook, winter steelhead and sockeye and coho salmon are found here in abundance (as many as 19,000 yearly returning steelhead) along with other native fish species. Visitors in the Sol Duc region can hike a number of trails, some as short as 1 easy mile, and set their sights on snowcovered peaks, gorgeous waterfalls and forest treasures. If you make this trip during late October to early November, consider going to the Salmon Cascades Overlook where you will see full-of-grit coho salmon flipping over the falls as they make their way upstream to spawn in the Sol Duc River. If hot springs are your thing, the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort (built in 1912 and renovated by the National Park Service in the 1980s) hosts some of the most naturally occurring spring rain and snow melt soaking pools, all muscle-soothing hot and full of minerals. A stay at the resort is not required; simply pay a day fee to enjoy the health benefits of a hot spring soak. The resort is open between March and late October. If you prefer a more rustic experience, the undeveloped Olympic Hot Springs also is located in this area. The Sol Duc Valley is forty minutes west of Port Angeles. Turn off of Highway 101 onto Sol Duc Road to begin your exploration and get a magnificent glimpse of a wonderland. Make sure you check weather conditions before setting out on your journey.

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Experience the power of the North Cascades!

Join us for Diablo Lake morning and afternoon tours! Start your adventure at skagittours.com or call (360) 854-2589.

adventure

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adventure

Art, Nature and Flavor

Refract: The Seattle Glass Experience runs October 17-20.

Check out these local festivals and attractions for an adventure steeped in Washington culture written by Cathy Carroll

A DIGITAL aurora borealis shimmers in a Nordic museum, a fresh-hopped beer festival’s intoxicating aroma invites and a 268-foot waterfall reveals ancient tribal stories. Take in these sensory-filled adventures through new cultural landscapes as diverse as the state’s geography. SEATTLE

The National Nordic Museum Ballard-based artist Ginny Ruffner’s monumental Project Aurora—a 20-foot-tall installation of undulating, shimmering sheets of colored light that evokes the aurora borealis—arrived earlier this year. She collaborated with Ed Fries, a prominent video game programmer and entrepreneur, and Wanda Gregory, a University of Washington lecturer and former video game professional, to program the piece to capture the unpredictability of the natural phenomenon. Catch this permanent exhibit Tuesdays through Sundays from noon to 10 p.m. as part of general admission to the museum and community space on Ballard’s working waterfront, in an iconic building that embodies Nordic design. | www.nordicmuseum.org/exhibitions SEATTLE

Megan Swann Photography/Visit Seattle

Chihuly Garden and Glass + Refract: The Seattle Glass Experience In addition to Chihuly Garden and Glass’s eight galleries, the centerpiece Glasshouse and lush sculpture garden, Refract: The Seattle Glass Experience runs October 17 through 20 with exhibitions, parties for mingling with artists and collectors, exclusive studio tours and live demonstrations. Engage with dozens of local glass artists—from reality TV stars to rising Seattle talents— showing why Seattle is recognized as the nation’s largest hub of glass art. Refract programs happen across Seattle and neighboring cities including Everett, Bainbridge Island, Issaquah and Tacoma. Much of the more than ninety events around the works of more than seventy artists is free. | www.chihulygardenandglass.com, www.refractseattle.org

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adventure

YAKIMA

Fresh Hop Ale Festival

SNOQUALMIE

Snoqualmie Falls + Visitor Center Witnessing the beauty and power of Snoqualmie Falls, its water pounding and cascading on a 268-foot drop, is an experience deepened only by learning how it is central to the Snoqualmie Tribe’s creation history, passed down since time immemorial. The Snoqualmie Falls Gift Shop and Visitor Center is the place to discover the fascinating historical, cultural and spiritual significance of this place, sacred to the tribe, which renovated the center last year along with the adjacent, tribalowned Salish Lodge & Spa. Through Snoqualmie tribal art, video interviews with tribal members and interpretive displays, the center reveals how the tribe honors its spiritual practices and fights to protect the falls and our other sacred lands from encroaching threats. | www.

PORT ANGELES

The Dungeness Crab Festival You’ll find fresh Dungeness crab, live music on three stages and more than seventy-five booths devoted to the Olympic Coast’s diverse cuisine, Native American heritage and environmental initiatives at this October 11 through 13 event. Savor a traditional crab dinner at the First Fed Crab Central Tent, stretching onto the City Pier. Explore the Feiro Marine Science Center, and watch for whales and sea lions from the pier tower. | www.crabfestival.org The Dungeness Crab Festival

A collaboration between an artist and video game programmer brings a 20-foot aurora borealis installation to the National Nordic Museum in Ballard.

Jim Bennett/National Nordic Museum

Unlike other beer festivals, this is outstanding in its field—a main ingredient, hops, is grown here. Yakima Valley harvests 75 percent of the nation’s hops, and each one is harvested and processed during thirty intense days every September. It culminates October 5 with this nationally recognized festival attracting sixty-five brewers from around the U.S. competing with ales crafted specifically for the festival that use only freshly harvested hops. Sip Yakima Valley wines and ciders, savor local flavors from food trucks and vendors and take in live music. | www.visityakima.com

salishlodge.com

TACOMA

In the Spirit: Arts Market & Northwest Native Festival Artist vendors, Native music, cultural dances and exhibitions, all free, are presented August 10 at the Washington State History Museum, Tacoma Art Museum and Museum of Glass. The Indigenous Fashion Show at Tacoma Art Museum highlights contemporary designs by Indigenous designers, led by creative director Mary Kelsay of MEKA clothing. | www.tacomaart museum.org/events

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The Dungeness Crab Festival comes to Port Angeles in October.

YOUR GATEWAY TO NORDIC ART &CULTURE nordicmuseum.org

Take a journey through the art and culture of the Northwest

Get there the easy way. Your way.

Flexible Charter Flight Service Around the Pacific Northwest

Showcasing the diversity and innovation of Northwest artists during the pivotal century of 1870-1970. We look forward to sharing the incredible stories of the artists who have shaped our corner of the world. Located in the coastal community of Edmonds, Washington.

Enjoy easy, stress-free travel for business and leisure.

CALL TODAY TO BOOK! 425-530 -5518 www.point2pointair.com

SAN JUAN ISLANDS • PORTLAND • WALLA WALLA • AND MORE

Art of the Northwest 1870-1970

Wednesday – Sunday 11:00am – 5:00pm 190 Sunset Ave. S. | Edmonds, WA 98020 | CascadiaArtMuseum.org

Photos: The GG

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS The inn has five rooms in the main house, each with private bathrooms and antique furnishings complemented by vibrant colors and wonderfully comfortable king beds and linens. With high ceilings, elegant crown moldings and original light fixtures, the rooms are fun, inviting spaces with a selection of original art on the walls. An outside cabana with decor and wallpaper fashioned after The Beverly Hills Hotel offers an additional two bedrooms.

AMENITIES

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The lobby of The GG in Walla Walla. A passionate restoration by twin sisters brought coziness to each room. Built in 1909 for $7,000, the Green Gables Inn was a private home and then a residence for nurses in its early years.

The GG written by Lauren Kramer WHEN TWIN SISTERS Karrie Blumenthal Dutton and Connie Blumenthal purchased the Green Gables Inn in 2021, the 115-year-old home needed some dramatic redecorating to lift it into modernity. Combining their complementary passions and many talents, the pair transformed the historic five-room home into a bright, whimsical inn filled with their lifelong, eclectic collections. Step inside and you’re surrounded by interesting art, the largest private collection of Louis Vuitton trunks (one of them dating to 1871), vintage lunch boxes, antique decanters, bright, chic furnishings and a multitude of objets d’art that hold the attention for hours. The inn is luxurious, warm and welcoming, its decor a tribute to the sisters’ vibrant personalities. This wonderfully comfortable getaway just a mile from Walla Walla’s historic Main Street feels like a genuine home away from home. 922 BONSELLA ST. WALLA WALLA www.theggwallawalla.com

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Each room has a flat-screen television, Nespresso machine and kettle for morning beverages. In the bathrooms there are hair elastics, shower caps, curling irons, contact lens solution and luxury bathing products, and some rooms have outdoor patios with comfy loungers. There are lots of communal spaces at the inn perfect for socializing. Guests can gather around the outdoor fire pit or head into the basement, where there’s a pool table and a living room decorated like a 1920s speakeasy. The wraparound patio is an inviting space to enjoy the serenity of the tree-lined neighborhood, and the “smoking porch,” a bug-screened lounge above the cabana, is a perfect respite on a hot summer’s night.

DINING Overnight stays include a light, homemade breakfast in the exquisitely decorated dining room, where the table settings, some laid with Versace dishes, are fit for royalty. The hosts greet guests with champagne and a complimentary bottle of wine upon arrival. In-room refrigerators are stocked with their favorite wine, and bowls of nuts (also complimentary) are located in each of the bedrooms for snacking.

HISTORY Built for $7,000 in 1909, The GG began as a private home and later became a nurses’ residence for staff working at the Walla Walla General Hospital, at that time located across the street. In 1990, the home was updated and transformed into an inn, but most of its historical features were left intact, including its elegant stairways and chandeliers.

trip planner

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trip planner The pastoral Cap Sante Marina of Anacortes overlooking Fidalgo Bay.

Anacortes A bustling coastal town with culinary delights to keep you from hopping the ferry

Andy Porter/State of Washington Tourism

written by Ryn Pfeuffer I HAVE BEEN to the San Juan Islands dozens of times, but I’ve spent only a handful of days in Anacortes. Situated on “the other San Juan Island,” Fidalgo, Anacortes is separated from mainland Skagit County farmland by the Swinomish Channel and from Whidbey Island by Deception Pass. Like most tourists, I used to skip downtown Anacortes, always turning left at Safeway to head straight to the ferry. After all, it is known as the gateway to the San Juan Islands. When I did venture into town, it was usually out of necessity: grabbing a coffee before an early ferry or getting a quick bite before making the ninety-minute drive back home to South Seattle. Anacortes had never been a planned day trip or weekend getaway until last year when my partner and I decided to escape Seafair and spend a weekend there. Coincidentally, our impromptu trip aligned with the Anacortes Arts Festival (this year, it takes place August 2 to 4). Though familiar with a few spots, we hadn’t truly soaked up the working harbor town vibe. Exploring this charming small town, surrounded by water on three sides, was so enjoyable that we returned on a whim a few weekends ago. I wondered why we had skipped over this former mill town, which boasts far less rainfall than Seattle (a definite plus during the drizzly winter months). While I had always assumed Anacortes was a town of boaters and retirees, I discovered there is much more to it. Whether you want to immerse yourself in forest and coastal walks or shop locally owned businesses and savor the local cuisine, Anacortes is a worthy coastal destination in its own right. Welcoming, laid-back and perfect for exploring at your own pace, it offers a refreshing and charming escape from the hustle and bustle. Here’s what to do: AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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Anacortes Inn

trip planner

Check out the modern and biophilic vibe at Anacortes Inn near downtown Anacortes.

Day PLAN YOUR STAY • CRAB AU GRATIN • OCEAN VIEWS If you arrive in town early, begin your trip with lunch at Dad’s Diner. Choose from their delicious mortadella hoagie or chicken asada quesadilla. Alternatively, head to Dad’s Diner Old School BBQ, a food truck just up the street with a small outdoor seating area. Follow the smell of burning wood to this spot where everything, including the bacon, is smoked and made from scratch. After lunch, check in at Anacortes Inn. This hip, modern Pacific Northwest oasis is located on the main drag, Commercial Drive, about 1.5 miles from the heart of downtown. The rooms are clean and comfortable, with amenities like a midsized refrigerator, microwave and bathtub. Pet-friendly rooms are available toward the back of the property, adjacent to John Storvik Playground—a fun spot for kids and dogs. For a luxurious stay, consider the Majestic Inn & Spa in the heart of downtown. The Apothecary Spa offers an hour or two of pampering, and the rooftop lounge, with its fire pits and blankets, provides unbeatable views of the surrounding San Juans. The hotel is also dog-friendly. Make sure to dine at Adrift for a meal that feels like a warm hug. Whether you opt for breakfast tacos for brunch, one of their famous soups for lunch or a bowl of gooey Dungeness crab au gratin to kick off dinner, the food and service at Adrift never disappoint. Afterward, head one block south to the Brown Lantern. Open since 1933, this casual, convivial spot serves up a damn good burger along with a friendly atmosphere perfect for unwinding with a pint. 80 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

Don’t miss the annual Anacortes Arts Festival during your stay.

If there’s still daylight, make your way to Cap Sante Park. This bare rock outcrop offers a brilliant 360-degree view of Anacortes and the surrounding waters. You’ll see the beautiful Cap Sante Marina, the Guemes Channel and, on a clear day, Mount Baker. It’s a perfect spot to watch the sun go down.

Day ARTS FESTIVAL • FARMERS MARKET • ANTIQUES Start your morning with a stroll through Pelican Bay Books & Coffee House. Grab a freshly baked treat and a cup of Olympia Coffee Roasting Co. coffee. This cozy spot is the perfect launchpad for a day of exploration. Next, head to the Anacortes Arts Festival, a vibrant event that draws more than 90,000 people. Give yourself a few hours to meander through the fine art show, enjoy concerts and watch working artists. With more than 250 vendors selling everything from sculptures and jewelry to clothing, paintings and garden

art, there’s something for everyone. Prepare for some traffic as you navigate the bustling booths. While at the festival, don’t miss the Anacortes Farmers Market, which coincides with the event. Open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays from May through October, as well as the second Saturday each month from January through April at the Depot, this market offers a delightful array of local produce, crafts and treats. As you wander the festival, take a break to pop into some locally owned shops. Alley Cat Antiques is a treasure trove of unusual finds, including neon signs, porcelain decor, old paintings and more. Watermark Book Company is another must-visit, showcasing the latest titles, a recommended reading list and fantastic merch like puzzles and art supplies—perfect for those lazy summer days. Head to Tin House, just across the street from Anacortes Inn, for dinner. Whether you opt for takeout or snag one of the few outdoor picnic tables, you’re in for a treat. Their Thai street food specialties, including ground shrimp donuts, deep-fried marinated pork belly and crab fried rice, are a delicious way to end your day.

Watermark Book Company

Anacortes Arts Festival

Anacortes Farmers Market

Adrift

trip planner

ABOVE, FROM TOP Try the amazing fish dishes at Adrift, such as the cioppino or Dungeness crab au gratin. The Anacortes Farmers Market is a great way to connect with the local terroir. The local bookstore, Watermark Book Co., is another way to commune with local people and authors.

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EAT Adrift www.adriftrestaurant.com Brown Lantern www.thebrownlanternalehouse.com Dad’s Diner www.my-site-105803-107532. square.site Good Bagels Café www.goodbagelsnw.com Lopez Island Creamery www.lopezislandcreamery.com/ visit-our-factory

Sugar Mama Café

ANACORTES, WASHINGTON

trip planner

Sugar Mama Café www.sugarmamacafe.com The Store www.thestoreinanacortes.com Tin House www.tinhouse1.com

STAY Anacortes Inn www.anacortesinn.com Majestic Inn & Spa www.majesticinnandspa.com

PLAY Alley Cat Antiques www.alleycatantique.com Anacortes Art Festival www.anacortesartsfestival.com Anacortes Farmers Market www.anacortesfarmersmarket.org Cap Sante Park www.wta.org John Storvik Playground www.anacorteswa.gov Outer Island Excursions www.outerislandx.com Pelican Bay Books & Coffee House www.pelicanbaybooks.com Rosario Beach www.outdoorproject.com Tommy Thompson Trail www.wta.org Watermark Book Company www.watermarkbookcompany.com

The tropical paradise pancakes at Sugar Mama Café, topped with toasted coconut, a banana and homemade whipped cream.

Day BAGELS • A SCENIC STROLL • SWEET TREATS After checking out of your accommodations, head to Good Bagels for a hearty breakfast. This local gem, started by two brothers from New York who fell in love with Anacortes, offers freshly baked bagels made with local ingredients. You can’t go wrong with their San Juan bagel sandwich, loaded with ham, egg, tomato, onion and herb cream cheese. If you’re in the mood for something more substantial, try the weekend brunch at Sugar Mama Café. Their tropical paradise pancakes—three chocolate chip buttermilk pancakes topped with toasted coconut, fresh banana and homemade whipped cream—are the perfect indulgence. Next, head to the Tommy Thompson Trail for a scenic hike. This flat, 3.3-mile one-way blacktop trail begins at the Port of Anacortes and ends at March Point near the Shell and Tesoro refineries. Enjoy stunning views of Mount Baker and Fidalgo Bay, and keep an eye out for the blue herons, especially at low tide. As you stroll across the abandoned railroad trestle, look for marine life—you might spot a sea lion curiously watching you from the water. After your hike, treat yourself to something sweet at The Store, known for its freshbaked muffins. People line up out the door

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on weekends for flavors like rhubarb crisp, crème brûlée and maple pecan crunch. It’s the perfect pit stop before you hit the road. If you’re taking Highway 20 home, make a detour to the Lopez Island Creamery Factory Store for a handcrafted, small-batch scoop. Founded on Lopez Island in 1982, the creamery moved to the mainland to reduce its carbon footprint and expand operations, opening a new factory and storefront in Anacortes in early 2022. They’re open daily from 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. Alternatively, if you take the longer route home via Whidbey Island, stop at Rosario Beach, part of Deception Pass State Park. Here, you’ll find tide pools, wide beaches adorned with driftwood, picnic areas nestled among old-growth trees and wildflower meadows, and a story pole carving of Kwuhkwal-uhl-wut, the Maiden of Deception Pass. This legendary figure of the Samish, a Coast Salish Native American tribe, adds a touch of local history to your visit. Next time, consider setting aside time for a whale-watching tour, an activity often enjoyed in the San Juan Islands. Outer Island Excursions has a convenient outpost in Anacortes, making it easy to embark on a marine adventure right from town.

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Since 1966, Mount Angel has held its rollicking Oktoberfest to the delight of many lovers of German fare.

City of Mount Angel/Mount Angel Oktoberfest

northwest destination

Mount Angel Where German tradition and the Pacific Northwest come together written by Ryn Pfeuffer

WELCOME TO Mount Angel, Oregon, known for its rich German heritage and vibrant cultural events. Every year, the quaint Willamette Valley town comes alive with Oktoberfest, one of the largest in the Pacific Northwest. Thousands of visitors flock here to revel in traditional Bavarian music, dance, the enticing aroma of bratwurst and, of course, a wide array of beers. This year, the festivities span from September 12 to 15, so it’s time to plan your visit and make the most of this exciting fall event. 84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

As the sun dips below the horizon, Mount Angel comes alive with the sounds of oompah bands and the clinking of beer steins. On Friday, check into the Oregon Garden Resort, where you can unwind among botanical beauty, the perfect launch pad for Oktoberfest and local exploration. After settling in, head straight to the Oktoberfest Biergarten for a taste of authentic German cuisine. Savor crispy schnitzel and piping hot pretzels while sipping a frosty mug of local brew from Benedictine Brewery or Silver Falls Brewery. Follow the lively strains of traditional German music to the main stage, where dancers clad in lederhosen and dirndls whirl and twirl with infectious energy. Don’t forget to join in the fun with a spirited polka or schottische. After all, Oktoberfest is all about embracing the joy of community and camaraderie. Kick-start your Saturday morning with a hearty breakfast at Lou’s Kitchen, where the enticing aroma of freshly brewed coffee blends with the buttery fragrance of biscuits and gravy. Once you’re revved up and ready to explore, take a stroll through the walkways of Mount Angel Abbey. Lose yourself in the tranquility of the abbey’s library or wander through its lush green gardens.

MOUNT ANGEL, OREGON

Mount Angel Oktoberfest

northwest destination

EAT Benedictine Brewery www.benedictinebrewery.com Chic Skape Coffee Boutique www.chicskape.com Lou’s Kitchen www.louskitchenmtangel.com Mount Angel Sausage Company www.mtangelsausage.com

STAY The Oregon Garden Resort www.oregongardenresort.com

PLAY The Gordon House www.thegordonhouse.org Mount Angel Abbey www.mountangelabbey.org Mount Angel Oktoberfest www.oktoberfest.org

Travel Salem

Oregon Garden www.oregongarden.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Traditional dance at Oktoberfest. The fruit of the labor of Mount Angel Abbey, the Benedictine Brewery. The nearby Oregon Garden is a state treasure and nice repose from Oktoberfest.

You might even join the monks for a prayer session. Don’t forget to stop for a refreshing beer at Benedictine Brewery and St. Michael’s Taproom, conveniently located just around the corner from Abbey Drive. You can also enjoy the monks’ craft beer at the Abbey Bookstore, which doubles as a cozy coffeehouse. Later in the day, return to the Oktoberfest grounds for more family-friendly entertainment. From thrilling carnival rides to traditional German games, activities and even wiener dog races, there’s something enjoyable for everyone to experience. Ease into your final day with a light breakfast at Chic Skape Coffee Boutique on Sunday. This unique spot combines a clothing shop with a cozy coffeehouse where scones and zimtwaffeln (traditional German cinnamon waffles) are simply delicious.

Afterward, embark on a scenic 15- to 20-minute drive to the nearby Oregon Garden, displaying more than twenty specialty gardens across 80 acres. Then, head to Silverton to marvel at the architectural masterpiece of the Gordon House, a testament to the genius of Frank Lloyd Wright. This iconic building stands as the only one of its kind in Oregon designed by the architect. No visit to the Willamette Valley would be complete without a taste of its world-renowned wines. Make your way to Willamette Valley Vineyards, one of the early wine-producing pioneers in the region, for a wine-tasting experience. Before bidding farewell to Mount Angel, stop by the Mount Angel Sausage Company for a sampling of artisanal sausages and locally crafted cheeses to snack on during your ride home. You won’t regret it. AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

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1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Island

Olympic National Park

Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Bellevue

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Seattle

Port Orchard

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

Port Townsend Whidbey

Shelton

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Angeles Forks

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Prosser

White Salmon Vancouver

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

14 Washington State International Kite Festival

42 bAckspace Sheds

Sol Duc River

46 Spokane Zephyr and Velocity

Fresh Hop Ale Festival

48 CultureSeed

The GG

Anacortes Farmers Market

Mount Angel, Oregon

22 Ferndale Farmstead 23 Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen 24 The Local 104 36 North Olympic Discovery Marathon

Richland

Mount Adams

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2024

Asotin

Until Next Time An afternoon at Little Skate Falls, a roadside waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest outside of Packwood. photo by Petar Marshall

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Pacific Northwest Wine Events OF LATE SUMMER & FALL

Whether it’s a cabernet sauvignon from Washington or a pinot noir from Oregon, the Pacific Northwest makes some of the best wine in the world. As the number two and three wine-production states behind California, Washington and Oregon continue to innovate and persevere in the face of challenges from global warming. The overlap of the top five wine varietals between Washington’s twenty AVAs and Oregon’s twenty-three AVAs are in production of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and riesling. Merlot and syrah round out the top five for Washington. Pinot noir and pinot gris make up the balance for Oregon. At the end of the day, it’s all about the care and craft that go into each vineyard, each crush, each winemaking season—that ends in a terrestrial gift from the soils of the Pacific Northwest. While there are hundreds of wine tasting events at individual vineyards and wineries, there are also events that showcase the wines of many vineyards and AVAs throughout the Northwest—an embarrassment of riches, a Bacchanalian reward for the participants. Here are some of Washington’s and Oregon’s top wine events of the upcoming season that you won’t want to miss. Plan ahead now, as many of these sell out!

Shindig at Yellowhawk Resort

A publication of Statehood Media

Cover: Wilridge Vineyard, Winery & Distillery, Washington

www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com

photo, above: Yellowhawk; cover: Greg Balkin-Wondercamp/State of Washington Tourism

2024

PNW Wine Guide

OREGON International Pinot Noir Celebration

lated topics. These small-format seminars provide IPNC guests with an intimate environment to learn directly from wine professionals.

McMinnville www.ipnc.org

Uncorked

JULY 26-28

Since it began in 1987 in McMinnville, the International Pinot Noir Celebration has brought in increasing numbers of wine lovers from around the world—France, Australia and New Zealand, to name a few. Today, the IPNC has blossomed into accessible education, dinners and tasting from more than seventy wineries. A long-standing tradition of the IPNC is the Salmon Bake, which showcases wild salmon roasted on alder stakes over a huge, custom-built fire pit. Other features of IPNC weekend include: • Grand Seminar: All guests attend this large-format seminar and tasting to learn from some of the most influential figures in wine. • Vineyard Tour: Travel through the vine-covered countryside to a nearby Willamette Valley winery where you will enjoy a guided stroll through the vineyard and learn about the distinct characteristics of the host site. You’ll also have the opportunity to engage in a small-format seminar with featured winemakers. • University of Pinot: Attend one of eight seminars that focus on a wide array of pinot noir-re-

PNW Wine Guide 2024

SEPT. 13-14

Sunriver www.sunriversharc.com/ things-to-do/uncorked Just after the kids are back in school, corks on exquisite PNW wines are popping down at Sunriver Resort in Central Oregon. Sponsored by the Sunriver Owners Association, Uncorked is two days of self-described decadence, music, food and art in Benham Hall and the outdoor John Gray Amphitheater. Make it a back-to-school vacation for the parents with a stay at the Sunriver Lodge or other Sunriver properties.

Umpqua: The Vineyard Tour OCT. 4-7

Oakland & Roseburg www.thevineyardtour.com Organized by the Umpqua Velo Club, this weekend features various lengths of rides from the 105-mile Full Flight to the 17-mile Just a Sip (including a gravel ride) in the rolling hills of the Umpqua Valley. Stop in at the many small wineries and vineyards along the way. Enjoy wine tasting, local cuisine and music from the Umpqua Valley.

Umpqua: The Vineyard Tour

photo: Umpqua Velo Club

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Fairsing Vineyard, Wine Country Thanksgiving

¡Salud! The Oregon Pinot Noir Auction

Wine Country Thanksgiving

NOV. 8-9

NOV. 22-24 & NOV. 29-DEC. 1

Dayton & Portland www.saludauction.org/auction

Willamette Valley www.willamettewines.com

Over the course of two days and two events, the proceeds from ¡Salud! go to help fund healthcare for vineyard stewards and their families. Since 2013, this event has raised cash to offset nearly $1.5 million in medical costs for the 2,100 vineyard workers and family members in the program. The auction of exclusive pinot noirs takes place at the Pinot Party at Domaine Serene on November 8. The following day, the formal Gala—a multicourse dinner, wine tasting and wine auctions—unfurls in Portland at The Ritz-Carlton hotel.

In the early 1980s, Willamette Valley wineries began this Oregon tradition to kick off the holiday season. In the weekends prior to and of Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley wineries offer special tastings, food pairings, live music and other wine country experiences. Pre-Thanksgiving weekend events include new fall release wines and wine club exclusives. Take the stress out of this holiday by absconding to the Willamette Valley and sipping Oregon’s best pinots while sampling local cuisine paired with your wine.

PNW Wine Guide 2024

¡Salud!

First Taste Oregon JAN. 24-25, 2025 Oregon State Fair & Exposition Center, Salem www.firsttasteoregon.com In the middle of Oregon’s winegrowing areas, Salem plays host to an early event

that offers a first taste of some of the new wines just coming out of barrel. The Oregon State Fair & Exposition Center is the scene for some of the industry’s best winemakers, craft brewers, spirit distillers, artists and culinary masters. This two-day event features live music and pop-up bars with wineries and top chefs.

photos, from top: John Valls/Fairsing Vineyard-Willamette Valley Wineries Association, Kathryn Elsesser

WASHINGTON TOAST!

Winemaker Picnic

AUG. 8

Sparkman Cellars, Woodinville www.auctionofwawines. org/events/toast Though this is an industry awards event, it’s also where some of the state’s best wine and food are for one night at the beautiful Sparkman Cellars in Woodinville. In Washington’s wine locker, Woodinville, expect an evening of great cabernets and red blends alongside a fourcourse meal from John Howie, one of Washington’s top chefs and a nominee for Outstanding Restaurateur by the James Beard Foundation.

Winemaker Picnic & Barrel Auction, and Gala AUG. 9-10

Chateau Ste. Michelle www.auctionofwawines. org/picnic www.auctionofwawines. org/gala One of Washington’s largest wine and culinary events takes place on the beautiful grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle. At the Winemaker Picnic on August 9, you can meet winemakers in person and visit the tasting bars where you can choose among more than 100 wines. You can also sample savory bites at each chef station. Try your hand at a game of chance for wine prizes

PNW Wine Guide 2024

or bid on reserve wines from thirty-five Washington wineries at the Barrel Auction. During the Gala on August 10, you can sit down to a fourcourse dinner by top local chefs at your winemaker-hosted table. Raise your paddle to bid to win one of the exclusive live auction items featuring Washington wineries—bottled happiness for your future.

Barrel Auction

photos: Curbow Photo

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www.abbeyroadfarm.com

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Shindig at Yellowhawk Resort

Shindig at Yellowhawk Resort AUG. 23-24

Walla Walla www.yellowhawkresort.com/ shindig Enjoy a spectacular weekend in one of Washington’s most exciting winegrowing areas—Walla Walla. Once and briefly the capital of Washington, Walla Walla is making the case for it to retake that title as it pertains to Washington wine. At the 84-acre Yellowhawk property, wine-lovers can enjoy a luxurious weekend of wine, food and music with proceeds benefiting youth agricultural programs and the local wine and culinary communities. On

PNW Wine Guide 2024

August 23, sip from more than twenty-five wineries on the beautiful Yellowhawk grounds while enjoying tasty morsels of food and moving to live music. Shindig’s Magnum Tent features fourteen special pours. The Grand Gallop event on August 24 is a multicourse dinner and auction to support local youth agriculture and the wine and culinary communities.

great wines in Walla Walla. During Fall Release Weekend, visitors can be among the first to enjoy and acquire newly released wines, many of which can only be found at the local Walla Walla wineries and tast-

ing rooms themselves. If you want to understand the distinct profile of Walla Walla wines, this is a fantastic opportunity to talk directly with winemakers and gain insight into their creative winemaking processes.

Fall Release Weekend

Fall Release Weekend NOV. 1-3

Walla Walla Valley www.wallawallawine.com/ event/fall-release The summer heat is gone. A fall chill is in the air. There is no better time of year to enjoy

photos, from top: Yellowhawk, Richard Duval/Walla Walla Valley Wine

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Oregon’s AVAs 22 20

200

9 10

17 18

Source: Oregon Wine Board

Willamette Valley

Dundee Hills

13. Southern Oregon

19. Columbia Gorge

2. Yamhill-Carlton

8. McMinnville

14. Umpqua Valley

20. Columbia Valley

3. Chehalem Mountains

9. Eola-Amity Hills

15. Red Hill Douglas County

21.

4. Tualatin Hills

10. Van Duzer Corridor

16. Elkton Oregon

5. Laurelwood District

11. Mount Pisgah, Polk County

17.

22. The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater

6. Ribbon Ridge

12. Lower Long Tom

18. Applegate Valley

PNW Wine Guide 2024

Rogue Valley

Walla Walla Valley

23. Snake River Valley

photo, at right: Serge Chapuis/Domaine Drouhin

Domaine Drouhin, Oregon

2024

PNW Wine Guide

Washington’s AVAs 20

15 16

12 13

7 10 8

2 3

5 Source: Washington State Wine Commission

1. Puget Sound

6. Lewis-Clark Valley

12. Rattlesnake Hills

18. Ancient Lakes

2. Columbia Gorge

Columbia Valley

13. Snipes Mountain

19. Rocky Reach

3. The Burn of Columbia Valley

8. Candy Mountain

14. Naches Heights

20. Lake Chelan

4. Horse Heaven Hills

9. Goose Gap

15. Wahluke Slope

10. Red Mountain

16. White Bluffs

11. Yakima Valley

17. Royal Slope

5. Walla Walla Valley

PNW Wine Guide 2024

photo, at right: Maryhill Winery

Maryhill Winery’s Vancouver tasting room, Washington

2024

PNW Wine Guide

1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: PNW Wine Guide | August/September 2024

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