Killarney Magazine by Killarney Advertiser

KILLARNEY MAGAZINE Issue One I July 2016

THINGS TO

SEE DO A N D

WHERE TO

EAT& PLACES TO

DRINK W I T H

KERRY’S

BEST WRITERS

explore relax enjoy

PLUS

KILLARNEY’S HIDDEN GEMS

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Welcome

to Killarney’s first premium tourist magazine We are delighted to present our town in the dazzling light it deserves and excited about sharing sought-after insider knowledge and hidden gems with you, our valued readers.

content

Delve into these enticing glossy pages and you will be wowed by the attractions that have earned Killarney its enviable status as Ireland’s preeminent tourist destination. We hope we will also tempt you to veer off the beaten track to make your experience of our town and its surrounds your very own.

Publisher

A town with the Recipe for Success Tracing your Ancestors The Killarney Valley Killarney, haunt of Poets & Writers Origins of Killarney Ring of Kerry Endurance Killarney’s Not So Traditional Pubs Come on down to the farm Muckross House history at a glance Killarney Golf 24 Hours in Killarney Wild Atlantic Way Culture in Killarney Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty Destination Tips Killarney’s Romance with Weddings Experience the Adventure Spa Capital of Ireland Killarney Map 1786 Boat Trips to the Waters and the Wild Adventures of a lifetime in Killarney Purple Reign in Killarney Killarney Hidden Gems Retail Therapy Killarney Style Entertainment at The INEC Killarney Town Map Family Experiences Music of the Horse Driving The Kingdom The Time Traveller’s Wife Skellig Wars Killarney at a Glance

A wonderful resource for the traveller, Killarney Magazine emerged from a pool of local talent and it features leading writers from what is a worldrenowned literary and cultural hotbed. It is the perfect read for the discerning tourist whether you are here on a short stay or extended visit, or arriving solo, as part of a couple or group, or en famille. We would like to thank all our advertisers for supporting this exciting venture and we are already looking forward to next year’s edition. Arm yourself with Killarney Magazine and explore, relax and enjoy!

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Killarney Advertiser

General Manager & Advertising Aidan Quirke

Editor Eve Kelliher

Accounts Caroline Devaney

Graphic Design Damien Switzer I Switzer Studios

Contributors

Breda Joy I Donal Hickey I Conor Doolan I Donal O’Leary I Jerry O’Grady I Sharon Ní Chonchúir I Cathy Murphy I James O’Hara I Noelle Casey I Seanie Clifford I Elizabeth Switzer

Photography

Gerard McAuliffe I K Town Media I Gintaras Dovidauskas I Sergio Vavilchencoff I Silvester Kalcik I Valerie O’Sullivan I Dylan Clifford I Pauline Dennigan I Failte Ireland I Damien Switzer I Michael O’Sullivan I Don MacMonagle

Printing

Killarney Advertiser

Disclaimer

The reputation of Killarney Magazine is based on the editorial independence, integrity and high standards of our publications. View expressed by Killarney Magazine in this publication are not necessarily the views of nor representative of our advertisers. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of names, addresses, and particulars of events, venues, businesses and other entries, Killarney Magazine can not accept responsibility for inaccuracies or omissions. This publication is wholly protected by copyright and no reproduction is permitted without prior written permission by the publisher.

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INTRODUCTION

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YEW TREE

It doesn’t matter if you pass the time browsing in the shops, sightseeing in a jaunting car or hiking in the National Park, you’re eventually going to end up hungry. Luckily, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants in this town.

The award-winning Yew Tree Restaurant at the Muckross Park Hotel showcases the best local ingredients on its menu. Start with the Dingle lobster bisque and follow that with Ring of Kerry lamb. Finally, a plate of regional cheeses served with crisp breads and house preserves will ensure you finish your meal in the best local style. KATE KEARNEY’S COTTAGE

Kate Kearney’s Cottage has long been a destination restaurant and here you will enjoy world-class dining along with the world-class scenery of the Gap of Dunloe. The Danú Restaurant The Danú Restaurant at The Brehon Hotel is a real specialoccasion restaurant. Its menu is incredibly varied and features unusual dishes such as seared octopus with carrot and harissa purée alongside classic options

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A DAY spent in Killarney is a day spent building up an appetite.

such as sticky beef feather blade with sweet red onion, celeriac and apple. LORD KENMARE’S Lord Kenmare’s is another restaurant that comes recommended. Its menu could be described as Mediterranean cooking with an Irish twist. Take the crabmeat and shrimp starter for example. It’s served with red pepper pesto, apple and lemon and dill mayonnaise. The main courses are just as imaginative. You’re likely to be torn between the likes of pork belly braised in whiskey, calvados and honey and the renowned paella royal which includes prawns, mussels, squid and fresh monkfish. CELLAR ONE The menu at Cellar One in The Ross Hotel is equally tempting. Here, you can expect starters such as slow-cooked vine

GABY’S You’ll know you’re in safe hands as soon as you step inside the door at Gaby’s. The open fire and old timber interior make this seafood restaurant a warm and inviting place. Its menu is just as inviting, with a wide selection of seafood, meat and vegetarian dishes. Make sure at least one of your party orders the smoked salmon platter. Gaby’s smokes its own salmon and it’s regarded as a real delicacy in Killarney. FOLEY’S TOWNHOUSE Foley’s Townhouse Restaurant is another of Killarney’s longestablished eateries, with the awards to prove it. It specialises in steaks but there are lots of other options on the menu too. From French onion soup to mussels, John Dory and rack of lamb, Foley’s aims to have something for everybody.

irish celtic whiskey The Irish Celtic Whiskey Experience brings something new to the dining scene in Killarney. As you may have guessed from its name, it’s dedicated to Irish whiskeys, gins, vodkas, craft beers and ciders. However, it’s not just a drinking house; its menu offers wholesome dishes such as creamy fish pie to provide much-needed ballast to the alcohol on offer. Bricín Bricín has had a reputation for its food ever since it opened 20 years ago. It’s best known for its house special, the boxty. This traditional Irish potato pancake is cooked on the griddle and served with a choice of fillings. Whichever you choose; you’re sure to be well fed at the Bricín. THE COURTYARD The Courtyard Restaurant in Scotts Hotel serves the finest food from full Irish breakfasts, through to delicious three-course lunches and candlelit evening dinners. The head chef’s menu combines new style cuisine with many of the traditional Irish favourites.

by Sharon Ni Choncuir

tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, salsa verde and olive bread and intriguing mains like the baked prosciuttowrapped hake in a crab crust with a spicy lentil salad and a coconut and ginger sauce. Reading the menu will have you salivating already.

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A town with the recipe for success

THE LAURELS The Laurels is the place to go for pub grub in Killarney. This pub has been run by the O’Leary family for almost a century and its beamed ceilings, alcoves and dimly lit corners testify to its grand old age. The food on offer is a mix of old and new. Tiger prawns and beef carpaccio sit alongside dishes such as lamb stew and bacon and cabbage. All dishes are finished to a high standard. Take that bacon and cabbage for example. The bacon has a mustard crust. The cabbage is braised in cider. And it’s all served on a bed of colcannon with a carrot and turnip purée and a white wine and parsley sauce. Heather Restaurant in the Gap of Dunloe, is a bright and spacious table service restaurant which opens onto 5 acres of kitchen gardens and ornamental landscaping. The team take their food cues from what is in season. They have great vegetarian options along with Atlantic seafood, tasty rib eyes and gourmet sandwiches. A firm local favourite. THE EUROPE The five-star Europe Hotel & Resort offers some of the most mouthwatering cuisine imaginable with a choice of restaurants, from formal fine dining opportunities to more relaxed options. The Spa Cafe is open daily from 11am to 7pm, and the dining room enjoys sweeping views over the lake and mountains beyond. The Brasserie Restaurant has a terrace for relaxed al fresco dining. The Panorama Restaurant has one of the most enviable views in Ireland with vistas of the Lakes of Killarney as well as mountains and gardens stretching before you as you dine. ......................................................................

You should count yourself lucky to find yourself hungry in Killarney. No matter where you choose, you’re always in for a treat when you eat out in this town.

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Ancestors Tracing your

in County Kerry Ireland

Eve Kelliher gets insight from genealogist Kay Caball into the eternal allure of time travel for people with Kerry roots

he mass digitisation of records over the last five years has awakened a great interest in Irish people, whether at home or abroad, in tracing their family histories.

Genealogist Kay Caball, who set up the website www.MyKerryAncestors. com, says the allure of travelling back in time in this way holds particular charm for people with roots in this county. “We know that Kerry has had one of the highest levels of emigration from any county in Ireland, particularly during the 19th century,” said Kay. “The population of Kerry in the 2011 census of 145,502 is less than half of what it was in the 1841 census – 295,000.” Because of this high level of emigration from the county, mostly to North America, Kay often encounters third and fourth generation descendants who are keen to trace their roots. “In America, Australia, New Zealand and the UK there is an actual hunger to find out where their ancestors –where they emigrated from, who else was in the family, why they left and in some cases they want to know if it is possible to identify the field or fields the family occupied,” said Kay.

”There is believed to be an emotional or

genetic link that has lasted down through the generations”

Through my website www.MyKerryAncestors.com I get enquiries on a daily basis – some people just want help identifying a townland or parish, others commission me to do a full research on their family history going as far back as possible, the economic situation of the family, why they left, how they left.” Because Civil Records did not start until 1864, we owe a huge debt of gratitude to the churches – Catholic and the Church of Ireland for compiling and storing these records for us over the last two centuries, adds Kay. “Through mass digitisation of these parish records, they are now available free and online www.irishgenealogy.ie and also the National Library of Ireland has released the images of these same parish registers on Registers.nli.ie The 1901 and 1911 census returns are freely available online on the National Archives website. www. census.nationalarchives.ie,” she said. Kerry baptismal records on www. Irishgenealogy.ie are generally good. “While only a small number of parish registers survive that have baptisms and marriages before 1820, the urban parishes of Tralee, Killarney and Listowel have the earlier records – some from 1792,” said Kay.

Kay Caball

is a qualified genealogist certified by the University of Limerick. A native of Kerry, Kay specialises in Kerry-based local family history and genealogy. She studied History of the Family & Genealogical Methods at the University of Limerick with her research conducted in primary and secondary sources for the County of Kerry. Kay is also a member of the Eneclann & Ancestor Network panel of genealogy advisers at the National Library of Ireland.

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THE

Muckross House and Killarney House might have become five-star hotels set in exclusive playgrounds for the wealthy, but for the philanthropy of their owners.

KILLARNEY VALLEY

So far, so positive but I must divulge details of a malaise that afflicts the Killarney breed who are prone to statements that drive our neighbours daft. For instance, ‘It’s a great little town. There’s no town like it. Isn’t it the best town in Ireland?’

Casts its spell on native and visitor alike

Angels fold their wings and rest, In that Eden of the west, Beauty’s home, Killarney, Ever fair Killarney. At the end of every street, mountains loom above the rooflines where, on summer evenings, our resident population of crows congregate in a Hitchcock-like tableau causing visitors to crane their necks skywards.

This garden sanctuary, protected from the busy town by a high stone wall, is a treasure that passed into State hands when a wealthy American couple, John and Mary McShain, sold the house and estate to the Irish State for a nominal sum.

If Torc looks clear and close, then you know rain isn’t far away (it’s never far away). By the same token, if your house stands on any of the valley slopes, you can watch the shower process across Lough Léin and race it to the clothes line.

But enough talk about the town. Killarney may be the brand name, the ‘hook’ for visitors, but this ‘Eden of the West’ is as much about Muckross, the area where The Bourn Vincent Memorial Park became the nucleus of Killarney National Park in 1932.

The Paps or Dhá Chíoch Danú, twin mountains, whose rounded countours are shaped and named for the breasts of the goddess Danú (she of the River Danube), are the first two beads of the necklace of Crohane, Stoompa, Mangerton, Torc, Shehy and Tomies.

For me, the uniqueness of Killarney is about the way you can lose yourself in nature minutes away from the bustling town. On certain frosty November nights, the bellowing of native Red stags at Knockreer across from Saint Mary’s Cathedral in Killarney National Park carries right into the town centre.

“ It will be the greatest playground in the world, for there is not another like it and I know them all ”

In essence, the town of Killarney is set in a bowl scooped out by glacial courses of ice. Nature is always close, a crescent of mountain and water on the western side.

Just 15 minutes’ walk away from the Market Cross, you will be held in the watchful gaze of wild deer grazing on the meadows of Prospect Hill overlooking Lough Léin.

Do you have to wander far from your native place to truly appreciate it? Possibly not, but in my own case, leaving Killarney behind to pitch my tent in the cities of Dublin and Cork for eight years after leaving school certainly made a difference. Then, homecoming was firstly about the mountains: the Dublin train humming through the plains of Kildare, on through fertile Tipperary fields and finally crossing from Cork into Kerry where the rocky terrain truly rises to greet you.

This summer, the restored gardens of Killarney House, complete with the much-loved Cherry Tree Drive, have reopened, bringing the National Park even closer to the town once again.

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Breda Joy

reflects on its unique allure.

(local author)

Senator Arthur Vincent said, on presenting the Muckross Estate, with his Californian parents-in-law, to the Irish State in memory of his late wife, Maud.

Dubliners, Corkonians and natives of every county will tell you, to a man or woman, that they love coming to Killarney. And why wouldn’t they? Sure, there’s no town like it for the craic as in enjoyment. For me, Killarney is like a great big music box in summertime: the carnival colours and sounds of Birds’ Amusements, songs belting through the open doors of singing bars and trad music lilting from pub corners.

Main Street becomes the Kerry version of Barcelona’s Ramblas as buskers and oddities blow in from every corner. And that’s where you’ll find me of a balmy evening – sitting at a pavement table and catching that holiday feeling as all of human life drifts by.

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Killarney, haunt of

Poets & Writers The splendour falls on castle walls And snowy summits old in story; The long light shakes across the lakes, And the wild cataract leaps in glory.

by Breda Joy English poets of past centuries seem a universe away from Killarney when encountered in school text books. Imagine then the initial surprise of discovering that Alfred Lord Tennyson’s poem ‘The Splendour Falls’ was inspired by our own Ross Castle and Lough Léin. There would have been no astonishment back in the 1700s and 1800s when Killarney natives were literally ‘tripping over’ visiting Romantic poets of the stature of Percy Bysshe Shelley (1813), William Wordsworth (1829) and Tennyson (1848). Wordsworth found fault with ‘the heavy shape of the highest hill, Mangerton’ when he climbed the mountain at the age of 59.

The poets are part of a rich and varied body of luminaries from the world of literature and travel writing who spread the fame of the Killarney Valley through the written word. Arthur Young, Dorothea Herbert, Mr & Mrs Hall, WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Brendan Behan are but a sample. Breda Joy, a native of Killarney, has been a journalist with Kerry’s Eye since 2000. Prior to that she worked with The Kerryman for thirteen years. She has been shortlisted for the Francis MacManus Short Story Competition (2011) and for the RTÉ/Penguin Ireland Short Story Competition (2012). In 2012 she was placed third in the Trócaire/Poetry Ireland Poetry Competition.

The literary walking guide, ‘Walk with the Writers in Killarney National Park’ (Red Hen Publishing, 2012), by Mary-Rose Bogan, records many of the best quotes and comes highly-recommended. ‘The Four Kerry Poets’, Aodhagán Ó Rathaille, Seáfraidh Ó Donnchadha, 7 Eoghan Rua Ó Súilleabháin and Piaras Feirtéar, are commemorated by the Spéir Bhean sculpture opposite the Franciscan Friary.

‘exceeds anything I ever beheld in beauty, with the exception of the arbutus islands of Killarney’. Local Mike O’Sullivan has written of the visiting Romantics in detail in the excellent reference book, ‘Killarney: History and Heritage’ (The Collins Press, 2005).

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Hidden Kerry takes you on the lesstravelled paths of the Kingdom, peopled with a varied cast of characters with colourful stories you will not find in brochures or guidebooks. The journey begins at Tarbert on the River Shannon and finishes close to the Cork border under the Paps Mountains. Lose yourself in the story of Lord Kenmare’s forgotten mansion, which hosted royal visits until it was consumed by fire; the daring plot hatched in Dingle to rescue Marie Antoinette; and the tale of the German U-boat that landed Greek sailors at Ventry in the Second World War. Meet vibrant characters such as Lily van Oost, the eccentric Flemish artist who made her home in the Black Valley; Mrs Elizabeth Herbert, who threw up her life in Muckross House to run away with her lover; and Fr Francis O’Sullivan, a gun-running friar who was beheaded on Scariff Island by Cromwellian soldiers. A book that is as much for the locals as it is for the visitors, Hidden Kerry takes you off the beaten track and brings the Kingdom to life.

Years of Mercier Press www.mercierpress.ie

MERCIER HISTORY

Irish Publisher - Irish Story

Shelley, writing from Italy in 1818, stated that Lake Como

The ink is still coursing through the town today. The bookshelves feature Eileen Sheehan, Margaret O’Shea, Meg McCarthy, Mary O’Gorman, Donal Hickey, Weeshie Fogarty, Colin O’Sullivan and moi, while many Killarney journalists feature locally and nationally.

Front cover: Main Street, Dingle. Back cover: Killarney House (courtesy of the Lawrence Collection).

Turning to books from Killarney writers, my personal favourites are ‘Old Killarney’ (The Kerryman, c 1918) by Kathleen O’Rourke, ‘Hostage to Fortune’ (Moynihan Publishing, 1955) and ‘The More we are Together’ (Poolbeg, 1980) by Seamus deFaoite. Look out also for the collection of guides and books from the pen of the late Paddy MacMonagle.

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Killarney

h 4t

Origins of

The laneways were a hive of activity, home to nearly 50 varieties of tradesmen and craft workers. Dressmakers, Coopers, Cobblers, Harness makers and Cartwrights, you name it, we made it. High Street alone was home to four Blacksmiths, a Tannery and Hilliard’s Shoe factory.

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Origins of the town

The Prince of Wales visited in 1858, three years before Queen Victoria. A touring route was named after him for loyal guests to follow.

tin len Va Sir

We can trace the origins of Killarney back to Sir Valentine Browne who was dispatched by Queen Elizabeth I as Surveyor General of Ireland in the 1550’s.

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Fortunately we have O’Leary’s and Reidy’s on Main Street, both offering a window into the past of old world commerce and Irish charm.

Tourism As a tourist destination Killarney was branded as a wild romantic getaway compared to industrialised Britain or unsettled rebellious France. The town was branded as the ‘Sunnyside of Ireland’ and the ‘Eden of the West’.

For his troubles, Sir Valentine was granted several thousand acres of land. As part of the Munster Plantation, Killarney began as a small English settlement of less than 20 houses in the early 1600s. The grand residence of the Browne family, Killarney House, was constructed in the 1720s. It was strategically located at the edge of old Killarney town. The streets and the roads leading to and from the town existed in the 1720s, over a century before Queen Victoria ever set foot in Kerry.

Less than a decade later the thatched cottages of College Street and Pound Row (Lower Lewis Road) would have a new neighbour on Martyrs Hill, as the Belgian influenced Franciscan Friary was completed in 1867.

Industry / Commerce Markets were held regularly at Fair Hill and the Market Cross. Livestock and cartloads of hay were hauled in from the countryside in the hope of making a few pounds. Crucially in 1853 the railway connection to Mallow was completed. The Railway Hotel, (now the Malton) was opened in 1854. To entice guests, the hotel address was imaginatively given as the ‘Lakes of Killarney’.

Also in the heart of Killarney is our old Town Hall. It stands as a fine example of Victorian red brick construction. It originally had three archways. Only the central archway leading to Old Market Lane remains.

The occupants and residents may have changed over time but the tourism industry remains paramount and unchanged. After three centuries of service, Killarney’s reputation as the home of Irish hospitality and tourism is well and truly deserved. by

Conor Doolan

B.A. (Hons) in Heritage Studies Explore Killarney

John Hilliar

Photos courtesy of Switzer Studios

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R ing of

Kerry

a perfect day

It is, perhaps, one of the most breath-taking day trips you’ll find anywhere, and it begins and ends in Killarney. by Donal Hickey

tretching for more than 100 miles, the Ring of Kerry is a long and winding road – there are two bridges which only one vehicle can cross at a time – and it boasts some of the best mountain and sea views in all of Ireland.

Because of the narrow, twisting road that is the Ring, coaches operate a one-way system, taking the western route towards Killorglin. On the way to Killorglin, you pass through some of the finest farmland in Kerry, along the River Laune, with the towering MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, including Carrantuohill, Ireland’s highest mountain, on the left.

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Leaving Caherciveen, you’ll see the island of Valentia on your right. Valentia is a gem that is missed by many people doing the Ring. You have to deviate a little to get to the island, either by car ferry from Renard, just outside Caherciveen, or over a bridge at Portmagee, again off the main Ring road. Valentia made its mark on history as the location of the first, successful transatlantic cable communication, in 1866. Some of the cable station buildings still stand. The storied island also has gardens at Glanleam and a famous slate quarry which continues to supply the British houses of Parliament at Westminster.

Next stop is the village of Waterville where silent movie legend Charlie Chaplin used to holiday. You can have your picture taken beside statues of Chaplin and locally-born football legend Mick O’Dwyer. Onwards then towards Derrynane, where lived Daniel O’Connell, and Caherdaniel before we reach the little town of Sneem, a national Tidy Towns winner. Statues and memorials abound in delightful Sneem including one in bronze of world wrestling champion Steve Casey, a member of a local family known for feats of strength. An ex-president of Ireland, Cearbhaill O Dalaigh, is buried in Sneem.

Photo: Failte Ireland

Killorglin is best known for Puck Fair - a three-day event presided over by a wild goat, King Puck, it has hosted in mid-August for hundreds of years. Soon after going through Killorglin, you come to the village of Glenbeigh where you’ll get a glimpse of the Atlantic and the beach at Rossbeigh.

Stretches of the road to Caherciveen run above the sea, offering panoramic views of Dingle Bay, and viewing points where you can pause awhile and inhale the salty air. There’s also a nice beach at Kells, with tropical gardens nearby. Soon, you’re in Caherciveen, a quaint, old town largely consisting of a mile-long street. Caherciveen is closely associated with Daniel O’Connell, The Irish Liberator, who gave his name to the local Roman Catholic church, a splendid building which is worth a visit.

At little further on is the Great Skellig, a cone-shaped rock rising out of the sea, which has the ruins of a monastic settlement dating to the seventh century. Skellig has become better known in recent times as the location for Star Wars filming. Ferries take people to the Skellig, but are dependent on weather conditions. A trip to Skellig is a special experience and the whole area is rich in archaeological remains.

Photo: Failte Ireland - @storytravelers

Thousands of touring coaches traverse it annually as well countless people in private cars and it is, of course, a key part of the Wild Atlantic Way. This is a trip not to be rushed. Give it at least one full day and, cognisant of the vagaries of Irish weather, try to pick a clear, sunny day when you’ll see it at its exquisite best.

Glenbeigh is the starting point for a new cycleway/ walkway being developed on a disused railway line all the way to Caherciveen, which is being hailed as a major tourist attraction.

The next town is Kenmare, a middle to upmarket destination, with its streets full of character and colour and its tiny, tree-shaded town park, just off the square, an oasis of calm. Kenmare is also a former Tidy Towns winner. Soon, we’re on the final leg of the Ring and back over the mountains to Killarney, also a Tidy Towns winner, after, hopefully, a perfect day. I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

Endurance

‘There are plenty of companies who organise top-class events to see you cry, whimper and scream your way around the most gruelling routes Killarney has to offer’

Killarney hits the ground running to host world-class endurance events

They spend months planning routes, break stops and a whole raft of safety measures to ensure your wellbeing. Most of all, they want you to have the most enjoyable, challenging and body-numbing experience possible while at their event.

NO PAIN, no gain they say – well, a whole new breed of endurance events are taking this to a whole other level. If pain is your game, then Killarney is the place to be this summer and autumn. Want to see if you can run, bike and kayak 70km in a few hours? Or what about a 600km five-day non-stop race around Kerry? If that’s not quite your cup of tea, why not try an ultra-race over two days where you take on the legendary Kerry Way trail? It’s a snip at 200km – the only drawback is you must complete it in under 40 hours. Let’s just say that these events are not for the fainthearted or those allergic to Lycra. In under a decade Killarney has become synonymous with Lyrca-clad warriors, who sniff at your 5km run or 10 km cycle. If they are not maxing their heart monitor, it’s not worth it. It was good enough before to throw on the runners and hit the pavements or cycle up the Gap of Dunloe and come back in by Muckross Road. Now locals and visitors alike are strapped into their heart monitors and

while you finish your leisurely cycle around Muckross and Dinis they are running up Mangerton Mountain (to get a sweat up) followed by a quick 15km run. And if there’s time and the light is good they might squeeze in a sprint up Cardiac Hill (you will understand the name when you see it), opposite the entrance to Dinis Cottage on Muckross Road.

Meanwhile, the team at KerryClimbing.ie aims to provide you with the perfect mountain adventure to suit your level of fitness, experience and aspirations. Should you wish to climb Carrantuohill, Ireland’s highest summit or have other peaks or routes in mind, try an adventurous day of rock climbing and abseiling, KerryClimbing will help you achieve your goal.

There are plenty of companies who organise top-class events to see you cry, whimper and scream your way around the most gruelling routes Killarney has to offer. There is no pity from the organisers who allow you to experience the surrounds of Killarney in no other way.

Quest Killarney Adventure Race October 1

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The Kerry Way Ultra September 2-3

Quest Killarney is a one-day multi adventure sport race. It takes place in the Gap of Dunloe and Killarney National Park. With five different routes choose from, this is one race you can’t miss! There are five different route options to suit all levels of fitness.

It is approximately 200km of roads, lanes, trails, paths and hills, running parallel to the famous Ring of Kerry road on the Iveragh Peninsula and is a route through the Old Red Sandstone mountains of Kerry. The Way touches Irish history (old butter roads,

www.questkillarney.com

famine graves, abandoned villages), archaeology (hilltop burial chambers, standing stones, Ogham writing) and folklore (tales of the Fianna warriors and their escapades).

www.kerrywayultra.com

ITERA Expedition Race August 16-23 The event will be a five-day nonstop adventure race for mixed sex teams of four, including running/trekking, mountain biking, kayaking, canyoneering and some rope work.

www.itera.ie

Hardman Events August 20 The 2016 Hardman Long Distance Triathlon will take place in Killarney on Saturday, August 20, at 6.30am. Test yourself to the limit on the most amazing triathlon course in Ireland with a 3.8km swim on the Lakes of Killarney, followed by a 180km bike ride on the fabulous Ring of Kerry and then a 42.2km run in the Knockreer Demesne in Killarney National Park; see

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Killarney’s not so Traditional

Pubs Like the town itself, the pubs tend to suck you in and it’s not easy to leave them.

aving spent more time than I care to admit in Killarney pubs over almost a half-century, I’ve seen many changes and, yet, some things remain the same. Like the town itself, the pubs tend to suck you in and it’s not easy to leave them. Many of the old, small and usually family-run hostelries, have closed, expanded, or simply disappeared. So we’re left with fewer small pubs and many large drinking establishments designed to cater for hundreds, or even thousands, of customers. I prefer the small ones. Some old Killarney pubs became nationally known – Jimmy O’Brien’s (now in new ownership) and The Laurels (also still going strong) spring to mind - while there are relatively recent additions like The Shire which lend modernity to the scene. O’Brien’s, on Fair Hill, was my all-time favourite and I attended there religiously for 40 years before Jimmy retired from the trade. You could have met anybody there. Numerous All-Ireland medal winners, university professors, traditional musicians and singers, thundering rogues and small farmers formed an eclectic clientele, with a premium on craic and good conversation. The legendary pub still has the former owner’s name over the door. But it has changed. Many of the customers are in the younger age brackets, for instance. And, in sharp contrast to times past when television was barely tolerated, large screens dominate the walls. Next door is McSweeney’s, a landmark institution which attracts both tourists and locals. Here, customers bear the look of settled, mature men and women who’re doing reasonably well in life. You can eat and drink well here in comfort.

A notable customer in The Fáilte was the late Kerry politician, Jackie Healy-Rae, and some pictures of him are on the wall. Across the street, the Scott’s Hotel bar has a veritable shrine to the same politician who was known to sample a Canadian Club or a Baileys with some of his cronies in the premises. The street alongside Scott’s becomes an open-air drinking emporium at night during the season, with thousands of revellers rocking to the music and drinking pints to bate the band. Murphy’s bar is another popular haunt, in College Street, where you’ll find locals and tourists imbibing together to the sound of Irish ballads. A few doors up the street is Buckley’s bar, in the Arbutus Hotel, where Irish traditional music is laid on a few nights a week. The Grand Hotel, in the town centre, also has good Irish trad, seven nights.

Two old-style, family-run pubs in High Street are well worth a visit – Jack C O’Shea’s and Hussey’s. These are pubs of character, with friendly locals both inside and outside the bar, offering a home-spun flavour of Killarney. Great chat always. Lovers of uisce beatha (water of life) shouldn’t miss the new Irish Whiskey Experience, in New Street, where you can taste and learn about the history of the gold-coloured ‘’drop’’ that shimmers in every Irish pub.

Here’s to the craic in Killarney pubs!

Visitors looking for local insights into the Kerry football scene might call to pubs like Lenihan’s, run by former Kerry player Diarmuid O’Donoghue; The Tatler Jack, run by Kerry GAA Board chairman Patrick O’Sullivan, or The Speakeasy, where members of the Dr Crokes GAA club tend to congregate. In the three, above-mentioned hostelries, you’ll meet football experts on high stools – men and women prepared to voice an opinion and more than willing to chat with strangers.

As well as numerous large screens, the walls in McSweeney’s are adorned with images from the worlds of golf, horse racing and Gaelic football, with a stand-out Paul Downey painting of Kerry football hero Colm (The Gooch) Cooper catching the eye. Around the corner is The Shire, a Lord of the Ringsthemed pub entered through a Hobbit Hole. A new attraction, the place has been getting favourable reviews.

Photos: Failte Ireland

Next stop on our Killarney pub crawl is The Fáilte, in College Street, a fairly big bar owned by the O’Callaghan family. Twenty, thirty and fortysomethings crowd in here to enjoy a variety of music groups in a throbbing atmosphere. by Donal Hickey

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The varying lifestyles of the social classes are reflected in dwellings ranging from the humble cottage of the labourer right up to the big house of the prosperous farmer.

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The latest addition to the farms is the Muckross School House where the ‘Master’ delivers a talk to visitors.

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Visitors can see cows being hand-milked and sample home-churned butter and soda bread baked over open fires in the farm cottages where the Bean a Tí or woman of the house will tell you about the old times.

The Gaelic meaning of Muckross derives from Muc, meaning pig, and Ros, meaning peninsula or wood. It’s appropriate then that one of the big yearly attractions on the Muckross farms is the old-style sight of a sow suckling her bonhams.

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A sister attraction to Muckross House is Muckross Traditional Farms, a project introduced by the Trustees of Muckross House with the aim of preserving pre-electricity farming traditions of rural Kerry as practised in the 1930s and 1940s.

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Come on down to the farm

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history at a glance

Step back through the centuries in Muckross House

”The French monarch might

possibly be able to erect another Versailles, but could not with all his revenues lay out another Muckross” (An eighteenth centry visitor to Killarney quoted by Travel Writer Charles Smith) If the walls of Muckross House could talk, what a chorus of stories would swirl through the polished corridors. But, in advance of the stories, here is some practical advice. Visits to the house are by guided tour only for conservation reasons: you can’t just turn up, buy your ticket and wander through. For that reason, I would advise visitors to go directly to the reception area in the old stable block to begin with and book your tour. If you have to wait a little, so much the better. This will give you time to view the magificent gardens which, like the parking, are absolutely free. If you have time, there are several nature walks nearby, including the Old Boat House Walk delivering a panoramic view of Torc Mountain and Muckross Lake from a limestone promontory.

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1843

Kerry MP Henry Arthur Herbert builds the mansion in Elizabethan style.

1861

They started the industry in the 18th century, mining an estimated £30,000 worth of ore between 1749-1754 alone. A second phase of mining lasted from 1785 to 1818. Muckross House has 25 bedrooms and 62 chimneys and employed 22 indoor staff in its heyday. The pink-hued Portland stone, used to face the house, was shipped from Wales to Kenmare and ferried over the mountain by horse and car.

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visit.

1899

Lord Ardilaun of the Guiness family is the new owner.

Like a lot of aristocratic families, the Herberts survived the ebb and flow of their fortunes by periodically arranging strategic marriages. Despite this, the coffers were steadily emptying from the 1860s onwards. Costly preparations for the visit of Queen Victoria in 1861 are said to have strained the family’s finances considerably.

1911

Californians William and Agnes Bowers Bourn buy the house for £60,000 as a wedding gift for their only child, Maud, and her Clareborn husband, Arthur Vincent.

1932

The Queen’s Bedroom, one of the popular exhibits in the house, features a mahogany bed, window drapes of of pink and gold silk damask and a Louis XV-style dressing table.

Local lore has it that the decorative iron staircase descending on the exterior wall into the sunken garden below the bedroom was installed because the monarch had a phobia about fires. Under the eaves of Muckross House today is located an award-winning research library, accessible by appointment only. While researching my book, ‘Hidden Kerry, The Keys to the Kingdom’, I came across one of the most colourful stories to survive from the Herbert era,

that of Elizabeth Germain who, in 1781, married Henry Arthur Herbert (1756-1821). Just ten years after the society wedding, Elizabeth eloped with a Major Duff, abandoning her children in the process. Captain Baird appears to have been one in a string of dalliances.

Heartbreak and affluence go hand and hand in the saga of the Vincents, the last family to inhabit the house. Heiress Maud Vincent died in 1929 in New York at the age of 47, having contracted pneumonia aboard an ocean liner. Her son, Billy, recalled how she had worked to improve the living conditions of the estate tenants, visiting all the cottages at least once a year. The Bourn Vincent Memorial Park, named in her honour, became the nucleus of Killarney National Park. I seldom walk through the gardens without thinking of her. by

Breda Joy

Photos courtesy of Switzer Studios

Muckross House

Now, for the history. The mansion was built in 1843 by the Herberts, a family of Welsh settlers who were granted Kerry land in 1586 by Queen Elizabeth 1. It was the fourth ‘Muckross House’ to be built by the family who made substantial money from copper mining on the Dinis Peninsula in Muckross.

The house and 11,000 acre estate are presented to the Irish nation to become a National Park.

1964

The house re-opens as a Folk Life Museum. I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

“Golf isn’t a game, it’s a choice that one makes with one’s life.”

on a par

Killarney is on a par with the best for golfers

“Killarney also offers the best après-golf in the country!”

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As for the nuts and bolts of your golf outing, when it comes to swinging out in a picture-postcard setting, Killarney and surrounding courses are second to none. Killarney Golf & Fishing Club, for instance, is located in the largest National Park in Ireland, on a small peninsula jutting out into the majestic Lough Leane, and under the shadow of Ireland’s highest mountain range – the MacGillycuddy Reeks. “The stunning scenery is simply breath-taking. Killarney Golf and Fishing Club is literally five minutes by car from Killarney’s town centre,” Mr Flannery. The club offers three golf courses. “At over 7,250 yards the Killeen course is our premium offering. It counts a European Amateur Championship, a Curtis Cup and four Irish Opens among the many prestigious events staged here over the years,” added Mr Flannery.

Mahony’s Point – offering slightly more room off the tee – is a members’ favourite. “This traditional layout has a timeless feel which features some of the biggest greens in the country and lends itself to a more old-school and links style of play – especially in the summer months,” said Mr Flannery.

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Killarney is a golfer’s paradise and the perfect base for would-be Rory McIlroy and of course their caddies. “Killarney offers visitors a huge range of activities and things to see and do, and is the perfect base from which to explore the other golfing gems of the South West,” said Killarney Golf & Fishing Club general manager Cormac Flannery.

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Some of the world’s most beautiful and challenging courses await you, from Killarney Golf & Fishing Club’s Mahony’s Point and Killeen, to nearby Lackabane, Beaufort, Ross, Castleroose, Dunloe and the surrounding Dooks, Castleisland, Killorglin, Ring of Kerry and Kenmare courses.

Many a golfer will agree with the words of screenwriter Charles Rosin and will duly find that Killarney and its surrounds offer the perfect setting to tee up to enjoy pursuing their passion for the fairways.

The club also has a newly re-opened nine-hole layout in Lackabane. “The new layout offers great value for money and is primarily targeting the domestic market, specifically society and open-day golfers.” Golfers will enjoy plenty of opportunity to socialise and relax in the friendly clubhouses at Kerry courses. So whether you want a one-day outing or an extended visit, rest assured of a wonderful welcome along with the world-class scenery in Killarney and Kerry.

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back into the town centre, passing the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, better known as St Mary’s Cathedral. It soars above into the Killarney skyline and is a beautiful example of the celebrated English architect Augustus Welby Pugin’s work. Legend has it, the design was inspired while boating on Loch Lein. JAUNTING CARS

24 hours in

Killarney by James O’Hara

HOLIDAYS are different for everyone. There are those who enjoy a leisurely wander around their destination and then others who tackle their trip in a very focused fashion, guide in hand, mentally ticking off the must-sees. Sound familiar? I must confess to being in the latter camp myself, and if you share my approach, or indeed, only have time for a short visit this time, then this guide is the perfect place to start. Granted, 24 hours in Killarney is nowhere near enough time to take in the splendour of the surroundings or the many

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hidden gems, tucked away in the National Park. But, rising to the challenge can be fun and you will also store away ideas for places in the area you can revisit in the future. THE TOWN IN THE PARK

Once you have had a hearty breakfast, hit Killarney House & Gardens for a wander. Killarney is not called The Town in the Park for nothing. From here you can walk into what the locals call “the demesne” and enjoy a 4.3km loop walk that takes you out past Ross Golf Course with views of Lough Lein. Stop for a moment and take in the mountain ranges and the 50 different shades of green. This walk brings you

Once you have refuelled with a coffee and light bite at any of the towns eateries, its time to move onto one the most iconic trips Killarney has to offer – a jaunting car ride from the town centre to Muckross House. Locals and visitors alike love this experience, it harks back to an era when everything was that little bit slower. MAGICAL MUCKROSS

The trip takes you out the Muckross Road or the Golden Mile, as it is often called, and passes the famous Muckross Abbey. From here a short jaunt onto Muckross House for a tour and more sustenance. Muckross Traditional Farms are also worth a visit. No time to stop, you are on the clock! From Muckross House you can reach Torc Waterfall (20-minute walk) and take in the sounds of the rushing water. Its a wonder and very popular. HIDDEN GEMS

There are a number of hidden gems around here that you could get lost in but now is not the time. By this stage its evening time and dinner will be beckoning. You can come back to Killarney town by jaunting car or catch a hop off/ hop on bus that passes regularly.

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

There is a vast choice of food options to suit most palates and pockets. Depending on what kind of experience you are seeking you will be safe with Lord Kenmare’s, McSweeney Arms Hotel, Cellar One, The Innisfallen Restaurant, Kaynes and The Laurels. Generally a walk around town gives you a flavour of menus and options available. Once dinner’s is over a bit of entertainment is needed, there is a choice of Celtic inspired shows in The Gleneagle Hotel, East Avenue Hotel and Killarney Race Course. If that’s not your cup of tea, the town’s pubs are full of music and craic.

have one of the best welcomes around, from here Courtney Bar is just two minutes down the road. Offering a range of craft beers and whiskeys, this pub has great atmosphere with music at the weekends. Now, you can visit McSorley’s, The Porterhouse or The Grand (for me a must visit) for the best of music and craic. Walking down into the centre of town check out The Laurels, a wonderful old-style pub and O’Connor’s on the corner. Here you will get great trad music and across the road Corkery’s has one of the best pints around. Enough said, there is pub for everyone in Killarney.

PUB SCENE

I recommend moving fast and drinking light if you want to see what the pub scene is like in Killarney. Start at Murphy’s Bar on College Street, a great place to meet locals. The Fáilte bar across the road, really does I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

So why embark on the Wild Atlantic Way? What it does, in effect, is bring together the elements of raw, often-unexplored, Ireland in an enticing, exciting adventure.

The world’s newest coastal touring route winds its way over 2,500km from Cork to Donegal’s Northern Lights. Billed as the journey of a lifetime, the iconic voyage sweeps across Ireland’s western seaboard in 21stcentury fashion.

THE world’s longest coastal touring route lies right on Killarney’s doorstep. And while the tourism capital is not itself on Wild Atlantic Way, it is hugely popular as a hub or base from which to branch off on an epic adventure that takes in aweinspiring cliffs, world-class surf and gourmet food. The world’s newest coastal touring route winds its way over 2,500km from Cork to Donegal’s Northern Lights. Billed as the journey of a lifetime, the iconic voyage sweeps across Ireland’s western seaboard in 21st-century fashion.

“Even though it’s not on the route, Killarney plays an important role in terms of catering for many visitors to the Wild Atlantic Way as a gateway and as an accommodation provider,” said Declan Murphy of Fáilte Ireland, Killarney.

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You’re talking about a route that stretches even farther than California’s Pacific Coast Highway. Visitors and indeed staycationers get to spread their wings and sample mesmerising beaches, edge-of-the-world peninsulas and intimate pubs, ranging from one end of Ireland to the other. Apart from tourist hotspots, you will find you often have areas all to yourself, a road less travelled. While some will drive the entire 2,500km many others will enjoy the route à la carte fashion – whether they motor through a chosen section or stroll or cycle part of it. The route offers something for all ages and for everyone from golfers to music lovers and from surfers to anglers. Culture vultures and equestrian fans will all also get a look in. The beauty of the Wild Atlantic Way is it is a route you can dip in and out of and because of this, Killarney is an extremely appealing base from which to set off on your adventures.

WILD ATLANTIC WAY TIPS Look out for the Wild Atlantic Way signage

Follow the signs, which are clearly marked along the whole Wild Atlantic Way.

Expect to cover only 65 kilometres an hour

When planning your day’s touring don’t plan to achieve more than an average speed of 40mph or 65km per hour.

Don’t run out of petrol/gas

Petrol stations can be few and far between in rural areas with almost none of them offering 24/7 service. It is a good idea to refill once your tank is half empty. Remember that not all gas stations will take credit cards.

Pick the right pump

Make sure to fill your tank with the correct pump, either petrol or diesel. Hire cars should all have labels on the tank to remind you which fuel your car takes. The pump handles for diesel in Ireland are black and unleaded petrol ones have green handles, this is the opposite to the US.

Ireland adheres to the EU laws for child restraints

Expect the unexpected

The Wild Atlantic Way route is mostly a rural area and rural traffic is the norm. Expect to encounter slowmoving farm machinery regularly from March to October. Also be prepared for wildlife, farm animals and pets suddenly crossing the road. Sheep especially like to use the road as a resting place!

What to pack

It is often said that Ireland can experience four seasons in one day, so it is essential to pack with this is mind. As Ireland is no stranger to rain, always bring a raincoat with a hood – an umbrella is of little use in the Atlantic breeze. A pair of comfortable walking shoes or boots is a must. To experience the full Wild Atlantic Way, the terrain can be rough and uneven in places and there may not be structured pavements. Always pack with layers in mind. Even in the Irish summer where temperatures can reach up to 22 degrees Celsius, if the sun goes behind a cloud the temperature can drop suddenly. The best advice is to bring a variety of clothes that can be layered up or down accordingly.

All children must travel in a child seat, booster seat or booster cushion.

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in Killarney

MUCKROSS

Muckross Bookbindery A must-see for any book enthusiast whilst visiting Killarney is a stop off at Muckross Bookbindery and Paper Conservation Workshop located in the Craft Centre in Killarney National Park. One of only a few places still employing traditional bookbinding skills, one can watch and observe as they undertake rare book and paper repairs on early printed books, manuscripts and maps, as well as on leather bindings and vellum documents. Address: The Craft Centre, Killarney National Park, Muckross, Killarney. Contact Paul at: 064 66 70151 or email bindery@muckross-house.ie .................................................................................

The Art Gallery @ Ancient Rituals Tattoo Studio An artistic Gem in the centre of town is the newly opened ‘Art Gallery’ run by Ancient Rituals Tattoo Studio, a space made available for local, national and international artists to promote and exhibit their work in a contemporary setting. The ‘Art Gallery’ holds an exciting mix of contemporary and experimental art exhibitions, with a specific emphasis on non-established, alternative artists from all over the globe. To find out more about an their upcoming exhibitions please visit their Facebook page @ www.facebook.com/ artancientritualstattoo .................................................................................

Glenflesk Art Gallery Glenflesk Art Gallery is situated on the scenic route to Muckross House, and Killarney National Park, surrounded by the mountains and lakes of Kerry in Southern Ireland. The gallery is a working gallery, owned and run by artist Mark Eldred who is a prolific oil landscape painter focusing on Irish and English landscapes. Visitors are welcome. All the paintings on show are by Mark Eldred. www.glenfleskartgallery.com

KENMARE PLACE

St Mary’s Church of Ireland Just off Kenmare Place holds interesting musical and cultural events throughout the year. For more information please visit - www.churchofthesloes.ie

MUCKROSS

Mary Neeson Ceramics & the Blue Pool Gallery Located 2.5 miles outside Killarney on the scenic Muckross Road, Mary Neeson Ceramics & the Blue Pool Gallery offers a selection of Ceramics, Arts and Crafts and Jewellery from local artists, as well as a large selection from Mary’s current body of ceramic work including; a series of angelic forms, a range of intimate lighting and quirky wall pillows, birdfeeders and porcelain nightlights. Address: The Blue Pool Gallery and Studio, Muckross Road, Killarney. Contact Mary @ 064 66 29049 or email: thebluepoolgallery@gmail.com

INEC

Spirit of Ireland @ Gleneagle Acoustic Club This diverse productions offers the audience a spectacular evening of Irish music, song and dance. Featuring a cast of Champion dancers and musicians under the direction of Dance Director Christopher Mc Sorley from Adelaide, Australia and Musical Director Kevin Murphy from Glasgow, Scotland , including well known Killarney singers Michelle O’Callaghan and Jack Patrick Healy and 2 x World Champion Sean Slemon from Moyvane, Co Kerry who dances for Aine Murphy and Norrie Sheehan of The Sheehan Murphy school of dancing, Killarney. The Spirit of Ireland is currently performing at THE INEC ACOUSTIC CLUB , GLENEAGLE HOTEL , KILLARNEY every Sunday to Thursday through to September from 9pm - 10.30 pm. Tickets available at the INEC box office 064 66 71555 and www.ticketmaster.ie

HIGH STREET

Artist Dermot McCarthy The well renowned local artist Dermot McCarthy has his studio and gallery located at Barry’s Lane, just off Killarney’s High Street, where he works and paints in watercolour. A mainstay of the Killarney art scene, Dermot’s art has been exhibited in a wide variety of art fairs and exhibitions throughout the country. Address: Barry’s Lane, Killarney. (The Gallery Opening Hours are 11am to 6pm, Mondays to Saturdays.) Contact: Dermot McCarthy @ 064 66 39995 or email: info@dermotmccarthy.com

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GLENFLESK

COLLEGE STREET

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Culture

Ceramics, Art Exhibitions and a visit to the Muckross Bookbindery and Paper Conservation Workshop in Killarney National Park are just some of the Artistic and Cultural stops-offs one should consider putting on their “To Do” list during their stay in Killarney.

Group booking please contact Ciara 086 4650464

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Hugh O’Flaherty

Climate

The weather can vary so much in one day that it is advisable to bring at least a light rain jacket for your visit. Influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, the Irish weather usually brings mild winters with temperatures in the coldest months of January and February which sometimes can fall below freezing; however this is not a regular occurrence. The warmest periods occur between May and September and the best part is the 18 hours of sunlight each day.

Born February 28th 1898 Ordained in Rome December 22nd 1925 Died October 30th 1963

In 2008 the Hugh O’Flaherty Memorial Society was formed and on October 30th 2013 an inspirational bronze memorial was unveiled in his home town of Killarney. Every autumn, a Memorial Weekend is held in Killarney at which the International Humanitarian Award is presented in his memory. Following his ordination in 1925, Monsignor Hugh served in various capacities within the Vatican and when in 1943-44, he witnessed throughout Rome the increasing fascist oppression of anti-Fascists, Jews and the thousands of allied escaped POW’s, he didn’t hesitate to come to their aid. It remains unclear as to whether his Rome Escape Line activities were known to the Pope but it is believed by many that Pope Pius was aware of his activities and may indeed have secretly supported them.

Free WiFi

Killarney offers a free Wi-Fi service in the town centre which also ranges through some of the main streets. Connecting through BitBuzz, you can access free Wi-Fi for 30-minute intervals while in range of the town centre masts. All mobile devices are suitable to connect to this service.

He and the Rome escape Line are

credited with saving some 6500 people from Italian Fascist and Nazi re-capture and almost certain death. Faced with the terrible evil of fascism, he actively confronted it and in so doing risked his own capture and execution by the Gestapo. His Escape Organisation secured the safety of escaped POW’s from several countries, including 2766 British & Commonwealth troops, 188 USA and 974 other nationalities from countries such as Russia, Greece, and France etc., - 25 nationalities in total.

Currency

The currency of Ireland is Euro. Foreign exchange bureaus are widely available in most banks, tourist information offices, and airports. The below debit/ credit cards are widely accepted in Irish stores: Visa,Visa/ Debit, MasterCard and American Express.

It didn’t matter to him what nationality they were – they were very simply fellow human beings who were in need of his help. His long-held belief was that “God has no country.” by

Jerry O’Grady

Photos courtesy of Switzer Studios

It is a measure of Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty’s humility that until 1960 when Lt Col Sam Derry published his account of the WW2 Rome Escape Line, very few people in Ireland or elsewhere were aware of the Monsignor’s incredibly brave humanitarian role in Nazi occupied Rome in 1943-44. He never spoke personally about the events of the time and so this great Irish hero went largely unacknowledged by his own people. In 2008, the Irish author Brian Fleming published a book titled “The Vatican Pimpernel” which became a best seller and dramatically increased the national awareness of Monsignor Hugh’s story. Over the past number of years, his life has been the subject of many books, TV documentaries and one feature length film starring Gregory Peck (The Scarlet & The Black released 1983).

Passport requirements

A valid passport is the only form of identification required for entering Ireland. You do not need a visa to land in Ireland if you are visiting from a European Economic Area.

Electricity

The standard domestic electrical supply is 230 volts AC (50 cycles). To use small appliances, you may need a plug adaptor to 3-pin flat or 2-pin round wall sockets. For standard commercial and industrial requirements 3 Phase 410 volts (nominal voltage) AC (50 cycles) is available. For larger commercial and industrial requirements, Medium Voltage connections at 10kv and 20 kv, and High Voltage connections at 38kv and 110kv are available.

Country code

The international dialling code for Ireland +353 Northern Ireland +44

Business hours

General opening hours of most shops are Monday to Saturday...........09:00am - 18:00pm and some shops are open on Sunday.........................12:00noon - 18:00pm Some of the larger stores offer late opening on Thursday and Friday until...................21.00pm Opening hours are extended in the summer months of June – September; a variety of shops stay open late Monday through Sunday. Banking opening hours are Monday to Friday........... .10:00am - 18:00pm

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Destination tips

Monsignor Our ‘Almost’ Forgotten Hero

Post

An Post is a major commercial organisation providing a wide range of services which include: postal, communication, retail and money services. Services, Post Office Savings Bank, Investment Products, Prize Bonds, Billpay, Postal Money Orders, Sterling Drafts, Western Union, Passport Express, Stamps, DSFA Payments, Parcel Services and Courier Post. AIB Banking Services: Bank Card Lodgements, Bank Card Withdrawals, Credit Card Payments, Personal Paper Lodgements, Business Deposits, One Direct, Postal Services, EuroGiro, PostPhoto, Top Up, Postbank.

Kayne’s Bar & Bistro, Muckross Road, Killarney

A Warm & Welcoming Atmosphere awaits you...

Emergency Contact Numbers

Emergency Services ................. 112 or 999 Killarney Garda Station .......... 064 66 71160 South Doc (Out of hours) ...............1850 335999 GPs Opening Times Monday to Friday ...................... 9:00 to 17:30 Saturday ........................................ 9:00 to 13:00

Hospitals

Kerry General Hospital, Tralee tel: 066 71 84000 ..................................................................................... Bon Secours Hospital, Tralee tel: 066 71 49800

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Killarney District Hospital tel: 064 66 31076

All day dining in relaxed and comfortable surroundings “Skewers grilled to perfection, Enjoy al fresco dining on our terrace Following on from the success of our April Curry Month we are delighted to unveil our May Monthly promotions for Kaynes Bar & Bistro then hung from a bespoke dish”

We’d like to offer you a 10% discount on any food on presentation of this ad

These special dishes will enable the accompanying liquor to drip slowly over the ● 13 wines ● A Skewers Intensifying the flavour. The Skewers choice will change daily!craft beers Serving food daily from 12.30-9.30pm by the glass range of local

You’re always very welcome at Kayne’s Call 064 6639300 for further details | www.kayneskillarney.com

Library

Located in Rock Road Killarney, just off High Street, Killarney Library has a wide variety of services. Its opening hours are Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat .... .........10:00am - 5:00pm Tues and Thurs .. ...... ........10:00am - 8:00pm tel: 064 66 32655

Church services

St Mary’s Cathedral Saturday Vigil ...................................................6:15pm Sunday .............. .8:00am 10:30am 12:00 noon Weekdays ................................... .10:30am 6:15pm Mass of Memorial Mon ................................6.15pm Month’s Mind (Remembrance Mass) .Fri ...............6.15pm .....................................................................................

Church of the Resurrection Saturday Vigil ...................................................7:30pm Sunday ............................................................. .11:00am Weekdays ...........................................................9:30am

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Church of the Holy Spirit (Muckross Church) Sunday and Holy Days .................................9:30am .....................................................................................

Franciscan Friary Weekday Masses ..................... .8:00am 10:00am Bank Holiday Mass ..................................... 1. 0:00am Community Mass Mon ............................. .10:00am (prior to Morning Prayer) Saturday .............................................................7:00pm Sunday ................... .8:30am 10:00am 11:30am .....................................................................................

St Mary’s Church of Ireland Sunday ............................................................. .11:00am .....................................................................................

The Methodist Church Services Weekly ....................... 9. :00am 11:00am

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Today, Killarney is renowned the world over its breathtaking scenery, unrivalled hospitality and festive atmosphere, adds KellyAnn. “To choose Killarney as the destination for your wedding means your special day will encompass all this and so much more,” she said.

Romance Killarney’s

So why are prospective brides and groom so keen to make tracks for Kerry, whether they have links with the county or not? I have lost count of the number of brides and grooms, who, whether they simply love the county, or have roots in Kerry decide it is where they want to exchange wedding vows. All will agree they have found it perfect, whether they organised a traditional white wedding, civil ceremony or tied the knot Celticstyle outdoors. Some couples simply fall in love with the county while on holidays here and others discover its beauty online and make it their business to plan their big

day around a trip here, content in the knowledge that they will have a picture-perfect backdrop for their allimportant photographs. What also sets the county apart is the fact that it is the base of innumerable seasoned experts in the exacting wedding business. Killarney and Kerry enjoy a long history as romance capitals.

”Lovers have been lured to Killarney for centuries,” said Kelly-Ann O’Connor, wedding co-ordinator at The Brehon Hotel, Killarney. “Legend has it that the famous Lakes of Killarney owe their origin to two such lovers who, while busy courting, neglected to replace the cap on a fairy well. Without its cap, the water of the fairy well rose up and flooded the entire valley forming the Lakes of Killarney.”

“The Brehon embraces all that is romantic and welcoming about Killarney. It has an amazing reputation for weddings and is known throughout the industry for its attention to detail and excellent food.” The scenery is a perennial lure for wedding parties, according to Bernadette Randles, managing director, The Dromhall Hotel, Killarney.

”I love capturing

both the joy of the special day and the magnificence of Kerry’s splendour!”

Scenery and history join forces in ensuring the Muckross Park Hotel is top choice among couples from across the globe.

“The Dromhall Hotel’s chauffeurdriven wedding car takes our couples from the church to the location of their choice, before bringing them to the hotel.”

“Our team have been celebrating weddings with couples since 1795,” said Bernie O’Donoghue, wedding sales manager, Muckross Park Hotel.

“There’s always something happening in Killarney. No matter which month you choose for your wedding, the town will be buzzing and there will be a great atmosphere. It’s the perfect I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

“Many couples, from Kerry and further afield, choose Killarney for their wedding celebrations because of the fantastic facilities available as well as the stunning surroundings which make Killarney such a popular destination,” he said.

“Killarney provides such a beautiful backdrop for weddings. We’re blessed with many picturesque photographic locations, such as Ross Castle, Killarney House and Gardens and of course the National Park,” said Bernadette.

Killarney’s vibrant atmosphere also lends itself to the celebrations, adds Bernadette.

With so many details involved, our dedicated wedding coordinators can help you plan a magical day. Set against the stunning backdrop of Killarney’s National Park, Muckross Park Hotel provides a stunning backdrop for your wedding photographs and all the elements required to orchestrate your fairytale wedding.

Killarney wedding photographer Mícheál O’Sullivan echoes the fact that local landscapes as well as world-class facilities influence couples’ decision to hold their weddings here.

with Weddings

ALL roads lead to Kerry when wedding bells start to peal. Having covered wedding stories for over 16 years now, one recurring feature of big days for couples both from Ireland and abroad has been the destination.

location for guests wanting to stay on for a few days after the wedding,” she said.

“For your wedding reception, we offer a variety of rooms for you to choose from; whether you are planning an intimate or a more extravagant celebration we can offer you the perfect setting for your dream day. Muckross Park hotel also boasts a number of beautiful civil ceremony venues including our purpose built romantic medieval atrium with its own private garden, original church pews, floor to ceiling windows and a magnificent open fire.” Planning a bespoke, intimate do? Nestled on private landscaped grounds and with the stunning Gap of Dunloe as a backdrop, Heather Restaurant & Gardens has won an enviable reputation for catering for wedding receptions of up to 50 people. The venue is flooded with natural light in the daytime, and in the evening is transformed into a cosy space with a log fire and intimate lighting. “Our location, just ten minutes from Killarney town and 20 minutes from Kerry Airport makes Heather an ideal location for those looking for a destination wedding venue in Ireland,” said Ailish Moriarty of Heather. by

Eve Kelliher I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

K erry

Climber “Experience the Adventure”

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of Kerry are Ireland’s highest mountains and include the only three peaks in Ireland over 1000 metres, Corrán Tuathail at a lofty 1039 metres, Binn Chaorach at 1010mtrs and Caher standing at 1001 metres. The range is extremely rugged with fine knife-edged ridges, high cliffs and fast running rivers. During the last two ice ages approx. 300,000 – 130,000 and 80,000 to 10,000 years ago the highest peaks of The Reeks projected above the ice and hence were subject to severe ice weathering. This along with erosion over time has resulted in the jagged appearance we see today. To experience these mountains, it is highly recommended that you reap the benefits of exploring them with a guide, particularly if you wish to “bag” the summit of Ireland’s highest mountain and are inexperienced. KerryClimbing are the leading provider of guided ascents of Carrauntoohil (translated from the Gaelic “Corrán Tuathail” meaning: “Inverted Sickle” or “Tuathails Serated Sickle”) and of the other numerous routes in The MacGillycuddy Reeks. On the day of your climb they will

The MacGillycuddy Reeks

provide you with a highly experienced local mountain guide. During your ascent they will share with you a wealth of information on the history, geology, flora and fauna, along with lots of entertaining & interesting stories of these mountains gained through many years climbing their slopes and all important local knowledge. You will be given assistance, encouragement and guidance and will never have to worry about navigation or route finding. Any ascent of Ireland’s highest mountain requires a level of fitness enabling you to hike in mountainous terrain for 6.5 hours+. All that is needed is for you to arrive with suitable footwear and clothing, a packed lunch, a sense of humour and a sense of adventure, ready and up for the challenge and the rest they will look after! Pre-booking is essential. They are ranked #1 on TripAdvisor out of ALL outdoor activities in Killarney and surrounds for 3 years running so you can be assured your booking with a highly professional company. KerryClimbing I www.kerryclimbing.ie e: info@kerryclimbing.ie tel: 087 9323527 or 087 7440523

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Spa Capital

Why Killarney is the

of Ireland

WELLBEING is something with which Killarney has become synonymous. ............................................................................................................................

The feelgood factor engendered by our panoramic vistas has wafted in from the great outdoors into the aromatic treatments and mesmerising décor of these therapeutic centres of excellence. So, slip into a plush bathrobe, settle into a lounger, and relax as you enjoy some of the best spas Ireland has to offer, ensuring destination spa status for their hometown.

ESPA AT THE EUROPE

ANGSANA AT THE BREHON

Five-star views merge with five-star treatments in Espa at the Europe Hotel & Spa. The opulent spa is a true escape, featuring a stunning infinity pool. Treatment options include advanced back, face and scalp massage with hot stones, or you might simply choose to relax in the cocoon of the spa’s heated loungers where the peaceful sound of the water on the lakeshore will lull you into a blissful rest. The spa café, which offers a harmony between beautiful surroundings and satisfying nourishing food, is perfect for guests who are seeking an organic salad, a refreshing fruit juice or herbal tisane.

The ultimate in destinations for physical, mental and spiritual renewal, Angsana Spas across the world are located in places of exquisite beauty. The Brehon’s Angsana Spa has sister spas in Phuket, The Maldives, Mauritius and Sri Lanka. The Angsana Spa takes its name from the exotic Angsana Tree – a tall, tropical rainforest tree noted for its crown of golden, fragrant flowers, which bursts into bloom unexpectedly. The Angsana philosophy is to live life spontaneously, to sense the moment and savour time. Every Angsana therapist has trained at The Banyan Tree Spa Academy in Thailand, while the treatments are a fusion of techniques from the East and West.

THE SPA AT KILLARNEY PARK HOTEL Specialising in therapeutic, results-driven treatments, The Spa offers an extensive choice of Elemis massages and Eve Lom facials including the excellent Elemis Biotec Facial. Jessica Horgan together with her team is dedicated in providing excellent service and tailoring each of the treatments to suit their clients individual needs. The Spa features a luxurious relaxation room, caldarium, sauna, steam room, 20m swimming pool and outdoor hot tub.

SUNDÃRI AT KILLARNEY PLAZA HOTEL Sundãri’s flagship Irish spa, this towncentre haven will leave you feeling rested and refreshed. Sundãri was created and co-founded by International supermodel Christy Turlington. Ms Turlington and her partners believed that inner serenity creates outside radiance. The brand is recognised as a prestige skincare line drawing inspiration from traditional Ayurvedic botanicals coupled with modern science. Ayurveda is an ancient holistic healing art that originated on the Indian continent. Sundari’s specially trained spa therapists offer a large array of treatments from Indonesia, Thailand, India and tailor-made healing treatments for mind and body.

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This boutique day spa in the heart of Killarney town offers an authentic retreat featuring a range of body treatments with roots in ancient Thai and Ayurvedic disciplines alongside Eminence Organic Skincare providing natural, prescriptive, results driven facials.

THE SPA AT THE AGHADOE HEIGHTS

THE SPA AT MUCKROSS

ORCHID DAY SPA

ZEN DAY SPA AT THE RANDLES HOTEL Zen Day Spa at the Randles Hotel offers an extensive range of holistic, nonclinical treatments for face and body. Enjoy time in the sauna, steam room or heated pool followed by a spa treatment. Treatments at Zen Day Spa utilise the purest organic certified products which are hand-made locally. Signature spa treatments include an aromatherapy ritual for ladies which beings with an invigorating body exfoliation after which the body is immersed in an aromatherapy mineral bath to soothe the body and mind. A soothing aromatherapy massage with essential oils completes this treatment.

Located in the heart of Killarney National Park, the Spa at Muckross Park Hotel aims to create a peaceful sanctuary for its guests that reflects the architecture and the natural surroundings of the park. Its highly trained therapists take you on a journey of relaxation and pampering. The spa features a vitality pool, Jacuzzi, outdoor hot tub and herbal sauna. The spa’s steam room, ice fountain and tropical shower are sought-after elements of the spa.

It’s the proud holder of numerous accolades, both in Ireland and internationally and the team of intuitive award-winning therapists at the Spa at the Aghadoe Heights can advise on the perfect way to de-stress and recharge mind and body. Let the experts guide you through a carefully selected treatment menu – from facials, massages, scrubs and wraps to holistic reflexology and treatment enhancements.

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Escape into a world of relaxed elegance while enjoying one of the most breathtaking views in Ireland in this multi award winning five star hotel located on the Lakes of Killarney. The Brasserie Restaurant - Open daily from 11am - 11pm Serving a range of dishes from light snacks to succulent flame grilled steaks. Relaxed al fresco dining on the lakeview terrace also available. Overnight Stays Hotel Guests enjoy complimentary access to the Active Level of ESPA at The Europe which includes 20m lap pool, indoor and outdoor vitality pools, heat experiences, lifestyle showers, Technogym and relaxation areas. Horse Riding and Indoor Tennis are also complimentary.

Killarney Map of

Map courtesy of Switzer Studios

178 6

The Europe Hotel & Resort, Fossa, Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353 64 66 71300

reservations@theeurope.com

www.theeurope.com

www.facebook.com/TheEurope I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

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Boat trips to the

Allowing yourself an entire day for one trip might sound like a big ask but, take it from me, the hours spent outdoors will be memorable. Like a lot of locals, I take the trip at least once a year.

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Killarney offers an array of boat trips, chiefly on Lough Léin, the largest of the three lakes, but, in my book, the ‘Rolls Royce’ experience of them all is the Gap of Dunloe boat trip right through the entire lake system.

The starting point is Ross Castle between 10am and 10.30am. The trip across Lough Leane and Muckross Lake and on up to Lord Brandon’s Cottage takes roughly two hours. There is an option of bringing a bike if you want to cycle the eight miles back through the Black Valley and the Gap of Dunloe. Otherwise, walk or take a horse and trap. At Kate Kearney’s Cottage, you can catch a bus or taxi back to town. Some walkers choose to return via the Kerry Way behind Torc Mountain if they have taken the Gap route previously.

Traditional boatmen also ply for hire from the Pier at Ross Castle. I would highly recommend taking a trip out to Innisfallen Island where the seventh century abbey ruins are quite extensive and herds of deer roam through the wooded glades. Another beautiful boat trip is the one from Dundag Boat House beside Muckross House across the lake to Dinis Cottage. An all-weather cruising option is offered on Lough Leane by two enclosed water buses which are ideal for groups and families.

These crafts cruise the lake from the docking point at Ross Castle across to the foot of the mountains fringing the water. Trips on canoes or kayaks are growing in popularity on the lakes in recent years, especially for corporate groups. They have the advantage of bringing visitors very close to the islands dotting the lakes. They are also a terrific sensory experience for visitors who are partiallysighted.

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Waters and the Wild

Whatever boat trip you choose, nothing compares to being out there in the middle of nature with the possibility of sighting deer, white-tailed eagles and a variety of other wildlife in the waters and the wild.

Marine Vessel PRIDE OF THE LAKES

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Weaving our way past fishermen and deftly avoiding swans, in a kayak it’s hard not to feel at one with nature. The first trip back in time came as we stepped ashore on Cow Island, as MJ regaled all with the story behind its name. In medieval times, a cow is said to have swum there from Innisfallen Island. The monks living on the monastery there tried to have the cow returned but she defied them and so a monk would have to row across each day to milk her.

KAYAKING trips on Killarney’s lakes are always to be recommended and when I decided to embark on a morning expedition on Lough Léin, little did I know that the moment I took hold of that oar, I would be getting ready to paddle my way into other realms and other eras – and still be back in time for lunch! Forget about stepping a plane to get away from it all, as soon as our group pushed off from the shore with Outdoors Ireland, a whole new world opened up. The friendly, informative guide and instructor MJ Duhy put even the most nervous of beginners (moi!) at ease as we made our way across to the lake’s islands and explored its mysterious caves. As he led the way, MJ, who formerly worked in engineering, told me cheerfully:

“I very much regard the lake as my office now!”

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Purple Reign

as Killarney flies the flag for safe and enjoyable nights out Tales of the Fianna’s exploits, Oisín’s voyage to Tír na nÓg and even Dracula author Bram Stoker’s connection with our surroundings followed.

Back to the present, the offer of a chocolate and a cup of Chai reinvigorated the group for a spot of island exploration.

Back on the water, paddling furiously, we again hit the rapids of history as we approached Elephant Island where MJ recalled a tale of a mammoth out for a stroll in prehistoric times “when it was hit by the 500m tall shelf of ice moving out of Molls Gap and turned to stone”. Fast-forward a few splashing centuries and we were in the Monk’s Cave where we rested our oars to hear of how the Innisfallen monks hid gold, jewellery, chalices and manuscripts there when under attack.

At times you might expect to catch a glimpse of Tolkien’s orcs and indeed MJ had some appealing theories as to how the writer could have been inspired by the Killarney landscape.

From there we steered our way back to the present and as we coasted into shore, it hardly felt as though we had set off three hours before – the Tír na nÓg effect perhaps….

WHEN it comes to evening entertainment, Killarney offers the ultimate in safe and enjoyable environments – and that’s official. The town has been awarded the sought-after Purple Flag for the past two years. Purple Flag is an accreditation process similar to the Green Flag award for parks and the Blue Flag for beaches. It leads to coveted Purple Flag status for town and city centres that meet or surpass the standards of excellence in managing the evening and night-time economy. The Purple Flag is a hugely positive international initiative that recognises excellence in evening and night-time management of the economy and a safe and friendly environment from 5pm to 5am in which to live, socialise and work. Many of the town’s premises and iconic buildings basked in a purple glow and purple flags were flying high as the town retained the accolade for two years in a row.

For further details on booking your adventure with Outdoors Ireland see www.outdoorsireland.com t: 086 860 4563 or e: info@outdoorsireland.com

Paul O’Neill, joint chairperson of the Purple Flag committee, said: “A wonderful safe and amiable atmosphere is enjoyed by all – the very essence of the Purple Flag. Killarney was the second Irish town to be awarded the Purple Flag, recognising the vibrancy and well-managed aspects the town, he added. Our aim is to maximize the quality of the visitor’s evening and night-time enjoyment of Killarney. This year we have initiated a number of measures which we hope will further enhance the night-time experience.”

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Killarney

Hidden Gems

Cromaglen Cascade Eagles Nest

Lay by

In the Tower Wood area of Killarney National Park is a beautiful cascade tucked away in the woods only a few hundred metres from the busy Ring of Kerry road where thousands pass by each year. A hidden gem in the true sense of the phrase, a visit to the Tower Wood is a half hour well spent.

Killarney National Park is endowed with spectacular scenery throughout its 25,000 acres. Mountains, lakes, woodlands, parkland as well historic sites and abundant wildlife are to be found in all corners of the park. Thousands come to the Killarney area each year to experience some of the wonders of the National Park and its environs. Despite its enduring popularity, there are still some parts of the Park that lurk in the shadows of some of the better known attractions of the area. Here we explore some of these Hidden Gems of Killarney National Park.

To get to the start of this trail, head south from Killarney on the N71 towards Kenmare. Continue past Muckross House and Torc Waterfall. Approximately 8km from the town, you will cross a low bridge with the lake on either side of the bridge. Our starting point is about 1.5km from the bridge so keep your eyes peeled for a lay-by on the left hand side. Look out for the ruin of an old tower house. This tower was used for keeping an eye on the poachers in the Estate in years gone by. From the tower, head off in the direction of the nearby river. There is some uneven terrain and a small stream crossing on this track. In the recent past, this area was almost impenetrable due to heavy covering of rhododendron so it’s great to see the place accessible again. As you emerge at the opposite bank of the stream the roar of the cascade begins to rise. From here it’s a short hop, skip and a jump around some of the ancient oaks before you are greeted by the cascade in front of you.

Kenmare Road

Cromaglen Cascade

Rosie’s Beach On the shores of Muckross Lake, there is a lovely little hideaway called Rosie’s Beach. Known locally as the ‘secret beach’, it is a beautifully secluded spot, tucked away just off the trail between Muckross House and Dinis Cottage. This sandy inlet was reputedly one of the favourite haunts of Elizabeth Rose (Rosie) Vincent when her family were owners of the Muckross Estate in the early twentieth century. Rosie’s beach is a few hundred metres off the main Muckross & Dinis trail in Killarney National Park. These paths do not allow vehicular traffic so you can reach the spot by foot, bicycle or horse-drawn jaunting car. If you’re approaching by car, the closest car park is about 2km away at Muckross House.

Waters’. About 1.5km from Muckross House, you need to be careful and look closely on your left hand side for a faint sign of a grass path leaving the main paved path. There is a more prominent viewing point with a bench just beyond this so if you reach the bench, turn back and have another look for the grass path. Once you have found the grass path, follow the woodland track that leads to the lake shore. As you emerge from the woods, Lough Leane becomes visible and you arrive at the beautiful Rosie’s Beach. The sandy shore is perched slightly below you with Torc Mountain rising high from the opposite shore. Guarding the beach is an old Yew tree with its root clinging on to the limestone shelves. Elizabeth Rose Vincent lived at Muckross from 1915 until the death of her mother, Maud in 1932. It is easy to imagine this being the scene of many a summer picnic or a paddle in the lake for the young Rosie. Following her mother’s passing, Rosie’s father and grandfather donated the entire Muckross Estate to the Irish nation. On a calm day, there is no better place to go for a paddle or swim or just sit back and enjoy the view in the peaceful surroundings of Rosie’s Beach.

Muckross House Exit to Rosie’ Beach Rosie’ Beach

Leaving Muckross House directly behind you, follow the signs for ‘Dinis Cottage’ and ‘The Meeting of the

Muckross Lake

The waterfall itself is known as Cromaglen Cascade, deriving its name from the nearby mountain of the same name. Follow the bank to the left of the cascade and with a bit of scrambling along some deer paths you will soon emerge up on top of the cascade. From here, enjoy the spectacular views across the uplands of Killarney National Park. Retrace your steps back to your starting point and enjoy the natural beauty and peaceful tranquillity of the Tower Wood. On your next journey on this road, take some time out to experience one of the best hidden gems you will find in Killarney National Park.

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Library Point On Ross Island, just over 2km from Ross Castle, is Library Point, a limestone rock formation on the shores of Lough Leane. The limestone rock has been eroded to form a pattern that resembles books stacked on a shelf. The beautiful trail that leads out to Library Point is an idyllic journey through woodland tracks and lakeshore paths along a peaceful peninsular trail. The trail to Library Point is just over 2 km from the Castle via the most direct route. Start the trail near an old mining cart at the rear of the castle. Follow the path along passing the derelict Ross Cottage. Soon you will pass a gap in the trees where you catch your first glimpse of Lough Leane.

Kenmare Road

Lay-by The Falls The Cascade Ladies View

You will soon reach the first signposted junction. Turn right here to head for Library Point & The Governor’s Rock. The path rises up slightly as we head into the heart of Ross Island through some magnificent woodlands. The meandering trail rolls down again to a bend in the path where we turn off right towards Library Point. From here it is about 1km to Library Point. The lakeshore opens up at secluded bays along this stretch with wonderful views of the McGillycuddy Reeks across Lough Leane.

Towards the end of the trail, you can wander around the pathways until you find a low fence towards the edge of the peninsula. Underneath this fence at the water’s edge is the rock formation known as Library Point. You can return back to Ross Castle by retracing your steps on the path. However, there is a much nicer route via a lakeshore path around the head of the peninsula. After about 10 minutes you will re-join the main trail. Follow this path to arrive back to your starting point at the old mining cart near the main car park. Library Point is a world away from the hustle and bustle of the vibrant visitor hot spot that is Ross Castle. The meandering paths through woodland and along the lakeshore to take you there make this one of the most rewarding trails of Killarney National Park.

Ross Road

Library Point

Ross Castle Grovenors Rock

Ross Island

Derrycunnihy Church

Derrycunnihy Cascade The famous Ring of Kerry route attracts visitors from all over the world every year. The section between Moll’s Gap and Muckross, on the outskirts of Killarney, is one of the highlights of the route. It is here that you will find a beautiful area of Killarney National Park known as Derrycunnihy. Hidden in the oak woods just off the main N71 road, Derrycunnihy Cascade & Falls is a magical place of natural beauty. Situated approximately 12km south of Killarney town on the N71 road that heads to Kenmare, the best starting point for Derrycunnihy Cascade is at a small lay-by on the right hand side of the road, about 1km before Derrycunnihy church. If you miss the lay by and reach the church, turn back here and the lay by should be easier to spot second time round. There is room for a couple of cars by the side of the road. From the gate by the roadside, follow a woodland path for just under 1km. As the path opens out to a river bank on your left hand side, a wooden footbridge heralds your arrival at the Derrycunnihy lower falls. The falls are just beyond the bridge and you can follow a grassy path by the river bank to get

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a wonderful view of the falls. The river bank is a great spot for a summer picnic or to just enjoy the falls and the adjoining pools. Nearby was the site where a hunting lodge was built for the visit of Queen Victoria to Killarney in 1861. Unfortunately, no trace of the cottage remains today. Retracing your steps, cross over the bridge again. Immediately after you cross the bridge, leave the main path and find a trail to your right hand side along the river bank, heading upstream against the flow of the river. In a few hundred metres you will arrive at the Cascade. After taking in the sights and sounds of the Cascade, make your way back along the river bank to the main path and return to your starting point.

Donal O’Leary

A native of Killarney and writes about the wonders of Killarney National Park on KillarneyGuide.ie. You can read about some of the great walks and hikes in the area and get a free eBook by signing up at www.killarneyguide.ie

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RETAIL KILLARNEY

ST YLE

“Whoever said money can’t buy happiness simply didn’t know where to shop.” Bo Derek

KILLARNEY is full of shops to make you happy whether you need the perfect gift or the must-have dress for your night on the town. For me when I go on holiday I love to buy something for my home – every time I use a bowl or look at a painting I’ve picked up on holiday it magically transports me back to the holiday feeling that came with it.

With shops like the Kilkenny Shop, Muckross House Shop (a mustvisit), Quills and Nest you will find an array of prints, pottery and more for your home. If you are more of a “Cinderella is proof that a new pair of shoes can change your life” kinda girl, try Who’s 4 Shoes, Walsh Brothers or Pavers.

For the perfect dress to match your new shoes Killarney has some amazing boutiques. Check out MacBees (which is famous countrywide), Wisteria and Bijou, to name but a few. Killarney’s boutiques stock names like Laurel, Marcar, Ana Alcazar, Maisy, Rant and Rave. I’m lusting after the navy and white dress by Comma in Bijou Boutique. To finish your outfit in style you simply must get a new bag. The Paul’s Boutique Maisy Maisy bag from the Kilkenny Shop will do me nicely – a snip at €100. Not to forget all those fitness fanatics out there, the Killarney Outlet Centre, boasts a Nike Factory Store with up to 70% off normal retail prices and with two other outdoor shops in Killarney town you will look amazing on your morning run or in the hotel gym.

MAIN STREET

Kilkenny Shop Brian James Killarney Art Gallery TK Maxx Killkenny Shop Christy’s

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HIGH STREET

Lyne’s of Killarney Penneys Who’s 4 Shoes

MUCKROSS Muckross House

NEW STREET

Dunnes Stores Nest MacBees Wisteria Bijou Boutique Walsh Brothers Quills Irish Gift Store Quills Woollen Market

OUTLET CENTRE Nike Factory Store Tiger Kerry GAA Store DV8 Paco The Works Pavers

COLLEGE STREET Urban Heroes

Deerpark Retail Park Marks and Spencer Mods & Minis New Look Costa Coffee

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For the men, Brian James and Urban Heroes are well worth a look with causal as well as more dressy clothes to suit every occasion (excuse the pun) and not forgetting the little ones Lyne’s of Killarney stock Gant, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and many more wonderful high-end clothes for your little fashionista. If you are looking for the Guinness T-shirt or keyring for Uncle Jack look no further than Quills Irish Gift Store. One of the first pioneers in providing Aran sweaters, Quills Woollen Market is next door on High Street with a range of contemporary and traditional wool designs. Well worth a visit is Killarney Art Gallery. Along with art, it designs and makes its own range of Skellig Wars T-Shirts, which were a huge hit with my nephews last Christmas.

If you still have energy left after all that retail therapy and you’re a High Street fan, Killarney has a great TK Maxx, Dunnes Stores and Penneys, and five minutes from town is Deerpark Retail Park with great shops like Marks and Spencer, Mods & Minis and New Look. Stop in at Costa for your caffeine fix or if you’re feeling sinful try their caramel latte cooler, it’s to die for.

but they also have a shop stocking more wonderful pottery, weaving and handbound notebooks all made inhouse by talented craftspeople. You can even see these being made before you buy.

New to Killarney is Tiger, a Copenhagen shop in the Outlet Centre, with a fun shopping concept. They have a quirky selection of own-designed items at surprisingly affordable prices. Stop off for a Kerry jersey in the Kerry GAA Store and while you’re in Killarney Outlet Centre, check out DV8, Paco or The Works, for some holiday reading. If you mention Killarney to anyone Muckross House is often the first recommendation on a place to visit

Check www.muckross-house.ie/ mucros-craft-shop for more gift ideas. Happy shopping! by

Noelle Casey

10/11 Main Street, Killarney 52

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To A

Upcoming

GHA DOE

Cleeny KILL

Lewis Road

To FOSSA/KILLORGLIN/DINGLE

at the

ARN

EY B Y-P

ASS

To C O

KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK Deenagh Lodge

Franciscan Friary

Tourist Office

Jarveys

Killarney House & Gardens

Muckross Road

St.Marys Cathedral

Library Point KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK

Boats

THERE’S a jampacked calendar of events taking place at the INEC, Killarney, over the coming months.

The famous Gleneagle Cabaret kicked off on July 4 and runs nightly throughout July and August. Comedy hypnotist Adrian Knight will take to the stage of The Gleneagle Ballroom on Monday nights, Brendan Shine on Tuesdays and Mike Denver on Wednesdays. Brendan Grace performs four dates including July 14, 28 and August 6 and 26. Dickie Rock performs on July 22, August 5 and 7. There also are performances by The High Kings on July 16 and Bagatelle on July 31 while The Wolfe Tones Fest takes place on August 19/20.

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Sean, Matt, Pat, and Noel Keane bring their show, Citizen Keane to the INEC on Friday, July 29. While INEC favourite Tommy Fleming takes to the stage for his first major acting role in the musical drama Paddy on October 1.

oad are R Kenm

Grosvenors Rock

Ross Castle

Map of

Not forgetting the kids, there is a puppet production of the Three Little Pigs taking place on July 30 with matinee performances at 2pm and 4pm.

Killarney at a glance

Muckross Gate Lodge

Lough Leane Jarveys

Muckross Abbey

Bricin Bridge

Muckross House & Gardens

The legendary Tony Christie brings his catalogue of hits to the INEC on November 18 and Killarney will ring in the New Year with country music star Nathan Carter.

Rosie’s Beach

Meeting of the Waters

Dinis Cottage Old Weir Bridge

Muckross Lake

Muckross Traditional Farms Torc Waterfall

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That Never Leave You!

Summers were spent cycling carefree through the National Park in Muckross, strolling down The Demense, swimming at Dundag and the Colleen Bawn Rock, or rowing across Lough Leane to the historic island of Innisfallen – all activities that remain constant favourites with locals and visitors alike. Now as a mother myself, I find Killarney has even more to offer for families today than it did in my youth. From nature-lovers to thrill-seekers, there’s something here for everyone! Killarney National Park provides infinite possibilities for fun family days out. Knockreer Estate, Killarney House & Gardens, and Ross Island (including Ross Castle and the ancient Copper Mines) are all within walking distance of the town, and are great fun to explore by foot or by bicycle. Further from the town, you can visit Muckross House & Gardens, Dinis Cottage, and the magical Gap of Dunloe among many other famous landmarks.

Cathy Murphy

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Eerily beautiful, the Abbey is shrouded in legend, and it has been speculated that it provided inspiration for Bram Stoker, the author of Dracula and a former resident of Killarney. Both kids and adults will enjoy investigating the winding stone staircases and the cloisters surrounding a magnificent yew tree.

Incorporating a trip to Muckross Traditional Farms into your itinerary will prove a big hit for the whole family. Step back in time by visiting three separate working farms and get a taste of what rural life was like in the 1930’s – 1940’s.

Each farm has its own animals, poultry and farm machinery. I have fond memories of the delight of my then 4-year old when he discovered a pen of baby pigs around the back of one farmhouse! Another popular choice for animallovers is Kennedy’s Pet Farm, located approximately 5 miles from Killarney on the Cork Road. In addition to the menagerie of animals that kids can cuddle and feed, there is a well-equipped indoor play area, making it a safe bet in rainy weather, unfortunately all too regular a feature of Kerry summers! Back in the town, there is an excellent playground just a 2-minute walk from the entrance to The Demense, across the road from the Cathedral. With play areas divided by age, it is fully enclosed with plenty of seating

Family Experiences

A tour of Muckross House or Ross Castle provides an insight into the rich history of Killarney that older kids will find fascinating, while the picturesque ruins of Muckross Abbey also hold a great allure.

Killarney Provides Great

I’m not sure that all of us privileged to have grown up in Killarney truly appreciated at the time how lucky we were to spend our childhoods in surroundings so beautiful and so steeped in history.

allowing parents to relax and enjoy a coffee while supervising the fun. A relatively new attraction nearby is Killarney High Ropes in Fossa, about 10 minutes’ drive from the town centre. As well as 2 high ropes adventures, they offer Splatmaster Paintball (suitable for children ages 9+) and archery. Other options for adventurous kids and teenagers include guided horseriding through the National Park with Killarney Riding Stables, or kayaking with Outdoors Ireland, whose kayaking trips on the Lakes of Killarney are suitable even for those with no experience. Killarney truly is an ideal location for families, and this is just a small sample of the countless activities available. Rain or shine, you will be sure Rain or shine, you will be sure to create unforgettable memories of a wonderful holiday to create

unforgettable memories of a wonderful holiday!

Alternative ways to see the sights include by jaunting car (horse and cart) or by taking a boating trip on the famous Lakes of Killarney. You will be regaled with stories of local history and legends, and if sometimes the two overlap, it only makes it all the more entertaining. The thundering waters of Torc Waterfall thrill children, who also seem to find the steps carved into the mountain there extremely appealing. (Note to parents: It gets steep!)

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Music of the Horse

When the jarvey had no passengers, the two hinged side seats would be drawn up. In the past decade, jaunting cars have gradually been replaced by wagons or carriages, the most recent innovation being the introduction of covers about three years ago. The introduction of dung catchers or ‘nappies’, highly-contentious at first, are a success story. One constant has been the storytelling, local knowledge and jokes that are the jarveys’ trademark. How many times have I heard peals of laughter from passing wagons as I walked the Demesne? For a detailed historical perspective on the jarvey trade from the early 1800s onwards, read ‘A Sketch of a Jarvey, Killarney Past and Present’ by Janet Murphy (www.lulu. com, 2011), who quotes travel writers including the Halls (1865) who wrote: ‘The Irish car-driver is altogether different from a jarvey of any other country. In England and in France they bully you out of your money – in Ireland they coax or laugh it out of your pockets.’ Richard Hayward, writing in the 1940s, described jarveys as

‘companionable leg-pullers’ There must be as many stories about horses as there are about jarvey personalities. I remember ‘Dolly’, a black mare with a white star on her forehead, the calmest, most intelligent horse ever. Whenever she heard my father coming down ‘the block’ or jarvey rank at Kenmare Place, she would whicker.

hile the metallic music of horse shoes striking street surfaces has long ebbed from Irish towns, summertime Killarney still rings with rhythms echoing from distant centuries. These sounds evoke for me childhood memories of summer mornings near the Gap of Dunloe when my grandmother used to lift me into my grandfather’s pony and trap for a short spin. I adored

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sitting into that trap but, more than anything, I longed to be older than my three or four years, old enough to sit on one of the saddle ponies following the trap to Kate Kearney’s Cottage for their day’s work. In the evenings, sitting outside my grandparents’ shop at Gap Cross, I’d see other saddle ponies trotting quickly homewards at day’s end. That was the early ‘60s when roads were quiet and horses could be trusted to gallop home on their own.

There are horses who stop for the usual photo opportunities and move on after the camera clicks, all without a prompt. All these noble animals are true troopers. When my father began jarveying in the mid-1960s, there were trips through Killarney Golf Course to Aghadoe and trips to Kilbrean Lake and Lough Guitane. The Killarney jarveys also drove tourists to Kate Kearney’s Cottage on the first leg of the Gap of Dunloe boat trip, and collected them at Ross Castle that evening. “They all faded out,” my father said. The ‘radio trains’ or ‘all-ins’ brought visitors from Dublin three days a week – Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday – in high season. The trip was called ‘all-in’ because they passengers had the train and jarvey fares all included in the price. They were called radio trains because they were equipped with radio studios to provide entertainment on the journey. The jarvey drive was Muckross and Dinis.

“Paddy was the king of them all”he said. The jarveys who drove guests from The Great Southern Hotel, now The Malton Hotel, wore black suits and bowler hats. “In the early part of the year, if you had a grey horse, you’d be black and white yourself,” he said. Serving the jarvey trade well into the 1960s was a small army of blacksmiths. The town’s last three last harnessmakers were Bill O’Sullivan Howard, Jerry Kelliher and John O’Grady. Tarrants of New Street made jaunting cars. The ebb and flow of time brings many changes but in Killarney, at least, the jarveys and their horses preserve a strand of a gently moving past. by

Breda Joy

My father remembers many jarveys as great singers and storytellers but the late Paddy ‘Whitty’ O’Sullivan, known as the ‘Singing Jarvey’ was outstanding.

Photos courtesy of Switzer Studios

Killarney still rings with the

My grandfather, William Joy, was a pony man in the Gap of Dunloe. My father, Brendan Joy, now retired, was a jarvey in Killarney. The terminology is specific: ponymen in the Gap, jarveys in Killarney and Muckross. Tradition has changed little in the Gap where the ponymen have driven tub traps for generations whereas in Killarney, both the carriages and the variety of trips have changed much. The jaunting car or side car was the traditional choice of Killarney jarveys for decades. It consisted of two seats for two people on either side, the driver’s box seat, and a seat behind him with a view to the road behind. The well, a deep space in the middle of the car, stored the oats bag. I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

the early ’80s. As a teenager standing waiting to seeing these fire-spitting cars on the night stage of Caragh Lake, I enjoyed an experience never to be forgotten. This embedded a memory of witnessing the best drivers in the world in the best cars in the world on the best roads in the world. Killarney’s future as a motoring tourist (adventurer) destination was starting to unfold. Since then Killarney has quietly become a must-visit destination for many UK and European-based car clubs. Guided driving experience companies offer Killarney as a destination such is the wonderful choice of roads. Killarney has played host to Cannonball Ireland on numerous occasions. In 2016 Matt LeBlanc – “Joey” from Friends fame – filmed a segment for Top Gear on the very road that you are about to embark on.

VIEW FROM MOLLS GAP

On Days Like These

DRIVING THE KINGDOM with Cormac Casey

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elcome!Hopefully you have arrived in self-guided transport, a supercar, hybrid, classic car or bike or best of all a “rental” – all suitable equipment for the task in hand. Killarney is more associated with one particular horsepower depicted in John Hinde postcards. However we are suggesting an alternative horsepower experience. 60

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It’s beyond the superficial participation in a particular type of automobile, as you will get to enjoy what unfolds through the windscreen ahead, and Killarney is at start of this adventure. Arm yourself with a good old traditional road map and a hearty breakfast in preparation for a full day’s adventure. No need to pack a lunch, there are world-class eateries to discover around every corner. Fully equipped, roll out the map on the bonnet of the car (for effect – it looks cool) and just pick a point on the map, any point. Choice will be your biggest problem. To help you get started we will present one day’s adventure. Before we set off it is worthwhile mentioning the popularity of Killarney’s connection with the automobile and the modern era of motorist. This is far removed from the John Hinde postcard.

GAP OF DUNLOE

“How you doin...Killarney” All fuelled up and ready to go. Take the N71 towards Kenmare, this represents one of the most spectacular roads in Ireland. You can take as long as you like as there is so much to see along the way. On leaving Killarney you enter the Killarney National Park and points of interest start hurtling their way at you. Muckross Abbey is first up and Muckross House and Craft Centre is shortly after, the shoppers among you will be tempted. The famous Torc Waterfall is the next. A few kilometres further on, another stop awaits along with a 15-minute walk to Dinis Cottage, where names dating back to the mid-1800s are visible in the windows, carved with expensive diamonds. At the rear of the cottage is the Meeting of the Waters.

Back on the road again and next up is the Five Mile Bridge with spectacular views of the Upper Lake overlooked by Ladies View. This is the start in the driving bit of the road. You are greeted by uphill twists and turns followed by hairpin corners until you arrive at Derrycunnihy Cascade and Falls marked by a small church at the side of the road. Next up is Ladies View, if you have not decided to stop up to this point, now is the time to. The views speak for themselves.

Killarney annually plays host to two of the most popular events on the Irish motorsport calendar, the Rally of the Lakes on the May bank holiday weekend and the Historic Rally in December. In the 1970s Killarney was at the pinnacle of the Circuit of Ireland Rally with such drivers as Ari Vatenan, Billy Coleman, Russell Brooks, Jimmy McRae and Roger Clark to name but a few. Killarney also witnessed the fire-breathing Group B rally monsters of I KILLARNEY MAGAZINE I

Time to start thinking of heading back, it is early afternoon. Look for the R568 for Molls Gap. Shortly before you arrive at Molls Gap another treat presents itself in the shape of pancakes. You have to sample these treats.

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You reach Killarney with a smile emblazoned across your face, this epic road behind you. With a road map full of ideas, this is only the beginning.

One thing guaranteed, over afterdinner drinks the road map will be consulted again. Don’t fight it. Enjoy your evening.

The Tim Healy Pass

The Ring of Kerry

the ring of beara

slea head

The Tim Healy Pass (one day) described as the mini Stelvio Pass because of the number of hairpin turns. You can see through every hairpin, this is a fun drive. For pure driving pleasure this route can be done on its own but can also be a detour on the Ring of Beara.

The Ring of Kerry (one day) is part of the Wild Atlantic Way. When you pass through Caherciveen follow the Wild Atlantic Way signs to Valentia Island via the car ferry at Renard Point (check sailing times). Take a while to explore Knightstown (a lunchtime spot), the cable station and slate quarry. Continue to Portmagee staying on the Wild Atlantic Way/Skellig Ring to Ballinskelligs. This road is breath-taking beyond description. An incredible road to drive with equally incredible views and the famed Skellig Rock on the background. An early start is recommended.

The Ring of Beara (one day) – from Killarney, this route takes in Molls Gap and Kenmare following the Atlantic Way taking in Lauragh, Ardgroom and the colourful villages of Eyeries and Allihies, stopping for lunch at Castletown-Bearhaven. This area is steeped in rallying history with epic stages like Ardgroom, Cod’s Head and the Healy Pass. Next up is Adrigole. If you want to take in the epic Healy pass which joins Lauragh and Adrigole, you can plan this detour from either side. Glengarriff is the next stop before you start to return. This road flanks the jagged cliffs and ambles through the Caha Mountains and tunnels taking in Kenmare and Molls Gap and arriving back in Killarney.

Slea Head (one day), recently seen on Top Gear, starts out in Dingle, the home of Fungi the dolphin. This loop around the most westerly point takes in the tip of the Dingle Peninsula – giving you beautiful views stretching out over the Atlantic and to the Blasket Islands.

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This road has it all!

Other recommended drives from Killarney ................................................................................................................

The sun is low in the sky, the colours are saturated and rich, and the road is quiet. The passengers are asleep from all the shops and eateries. Clear road ahead with twists, turns, hairpins, flowing sections and breathtaking views. Cue Matt Monroe’s “On Days Like These”,the opening sound track of the original The Italian Job movie.

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Kenmare first, just because you have to drive through Molls Gap in the tracks of those fearless rally drivers. The market town of Kenmare is an ideal lunchtime destination to chill and explore for a few hours and should I mention it, great shops. Itching for road again, backtrack out the N71 for one kilometre and then take the N70 for Sneem.

On days like these when skies are blue and fields are green I look around and think about what might have been

The next leg of the journey is towards famous Molls Gap. Starting with a combination of tight twists, it opens up into a fast-flowing section in the middle by Looscaunagh Lake and then tightens again along the side of the mountain before opening up to a flowing section to reveal Molls Gap in the distance. Just in time for a coffee break and the generous helpings of spectacular views of this rugged countryside. Oh, did I mention, another shop. A small convertible with equivalent boot space may save a fortune. At this point, Kenmare or Sneem or both are the options.

Driving on the Iveragh Peninsula, savour the beautiful views of Kenmare Bay out your left window taking in Templenoe, Tahilla and Parknasilla. You will eventually arrive in Sneem, a small village with a chillout factor to be absorbed.

Safe motoring The Ross, Town Centre, Killarney. hello@theross.ie www.theross.ie

CELLAR ONE great wine great food •

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Time Travellers Wife

If the weighty, gilt-framed portraits of long-dead aristocrats that line the walls of our home could talk. They are a timeless reminder to me that I truly must love my husband. Since I met Damien Switzer he has been buying random postcards, prints and photo albums of Killarney, amassing a collection so large that even he admits he doesn’t even know exactly what he has acquired over the years. I could tell him! “Stacks of dusty old boxes.” He will always spend hours talking to people to build up the story behind an old photo or event. The stories are important to him and he loves recounting them to people even if most ‘zone out’ after a while.

‘People will always be interested in their history, well... at some stage in their lives,’ he says. However he has had his moments. An old lady asked for what would appear to most to be an impossible request. A photo of a friend who visited Killarney for the summer in 1943. With the speed of a Google search he produced a photo of the lady on the bar of her friend’s high nelly. She recounted how they were sweethearts and he died in the war. It’s reactions like that, that soften the days when

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the Visa bill appears. I could be buying new rugby boots for the children instead of a rare edition of something or other. I have often said, “When he dies I’ll sell the lot and go straight to Walsh Brothers.” All I get is, “I could be spending it worse, in the pub or down the bookies.” It’s just in him, I guess. Weeshie Fogarty has his ‘Beautiful Obsession’ – well, Damien has more of a

‘Compulsive Affliction’. When Damien sleeps at night, it’s sometimes beside the discarded memories of a gorgeous brunette at a 1940s social or dimly lit street scene. “Endless history,” he says, sitting on our bed, staring at nearby stacks of photo albums that narrate the lives of people he has never met, that are, in fact, all dead. I’m guessing you can tell by my tone by now I’m not the antiques type (smelly old things). From coffee mornings to barbecues, he will always find some way of producing a photo or a letter. If I had a euro for every time I heard ‘hold on there I have something to

“His last thought at night and first thought of the day is of his mistress ‘Killarney’, generally he doesn’t really sleep; when he does, he dreams of Killarney….I’ve learned to live with it”

show you’ as he rushes off up the stairs to his hoard to retrieve some item, followed by my customary roll of the eyes, where I inform the unwitting victim that ‘you’ll be here for a while now’. When people ask where he gets it all, thousands of photos, he says, “Oh eBay or the odd postcard fayre”. But don’t be fooled! From Singapore to Brisbane, a list of dealers worldwide know of Damien Switzer, ‘the Killarney guy’, if a lot comes up for sale, they don’t even list it for auction. They know only too well Damien will buy it. If it has any tangible link to Killarney, be it a ‘matchbox carved from yew to a poster of a dance’ they all find their way to our front door. From books with the spines falling apart to mildew-stained prints. He used to wait anxiously for the sound of the postman to receive his latest acquisition. Giddily open it like a child at Christmas at which point I’d usually make myself scarce as I know a history lesson would inevitably follow. “What do I care if it’s 200 years old,” I’d say. Nowadays he signs for his delivery, stacks them, unopened in ever-increasing piles of his towns past and I fear he has crossed over from collector to accumulator. He spends his days like a good father and husband with his family but when all are asleep he searches, reads, records, writes, slipping into his beloved past....‘time

travelling’. Come morning we quip, “Where were you last night?” He’d reply: “The ’30s.” A time he has never been….yet he recounts it with chilling clarity, descriptions that conjure up sounds and smells.... bringing it alive. As if he was there. A little older now, doting over his three boys who he adores, he is a little quieter these days. He has not lost his passion but he feels the day job is hindering his ‘time’, the one thing he loves the most is running out. “How can I find time to write it all down, record what he has learnt?” he says. On asked what is the purpose of this madness he replies: “I’m only a custodian of Killarney history, I collect to one day pass it on...if I don’t who will.” Not to sound like he is completely crazy, he says: “There are a few of us out there you know, I’m not the only one.” “I’m not alone so, God help their wives,” I say. I’ve grown used to conversations with earls and serfs, and knowing what shop was where... I guess Killarney should be happy to have people like him. But as Damien says: “It’s all about making the lives of those who have gone before matter, passing it on and not being forgotten.” Maybe it’s age, but I understand it (now) he, his mistress and I. by

Photos courtesy of Switzer Studios

The

Elizabeth Switzer

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Killarney at a glance

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VISITORS have been escaping to Killarney for over 250 years. They come for the legendary beauty of the lakes, waterfalls, mountain peaks and mesmerising views.

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Back in town, the streets are a hive of activity, full of life, enticing shops, restaurants and pubs where you can enjoy banter and people watching.

Skellig Wars A Killarney Story THE brainchild of adopted Killarney man Declan Mulvany, Skellig Wars was inspired by the news that Star Wars film crews were to descend on the remote, ancient Irish island of Skellig Michael in the summer of 2014. Witty and unique, Skellig Wars T-shirts celebrate both the ancient world of Irish monks and the blockbuster world of modern Hollywood. But the Skellig Wars concept is more than a just a T-shirt. Skellig Michael is a spectacular pyramid of rock that rises from the depths of the wild Atlantic Ocean, nine miles off the Kerry coast, but it’s hardly the kind of place you expect to brush shoulders with Hollywood royalty like Mark Hamill. So what drew the filmmakers to this remote island to film the next instalments of the Star Wars franchise? Well, you could say they had divine inspiration, given that Skellig Michael is home to a unique sixth century monastery, a cluster of exquisite beehive huts that have clung to the rocky heights despite centuries of ocean storms and mighty breakers. This UNESCO World Heritage site served as the ideal hideaway location for Luke Skywalker, master of the Jedi monastery that features so spectacularly in the final scenes of the movie Star Wars VII: The Force Awakens. The island, which is also set to feature in the next Star Wars movie, Vlll, is home to a thriving community of seabirds, among them the iconic puffins, which have taken their newfound fame with ease. They feature prominently in the Skellig Wars collection, their movie-star good looks somewhat tempered by sinister Dark Side masks. The latest addition to the Skellig Wars collection is an Irishlanguage version featuring the slogan

“Go mbeidh an force leat” (“May the force be with you”) Each item is designed in Kerry and printed in Ireland on premium quality cotton. Pick yours up from The Irish Pub Shop, Main Street, Killarney, or online at

www.skelligwars.com

The town is on the north-east shore of the largest of the three Lakes of Killarney, Lough Leane or Lake of Learning, where the medieval monks of Innisfallen recorded the earliest history of Ireland. Killarney makes it easy to enjoy nature, to be as active or as laid-back as you choose. There are easy strolls and challenging hikes, trips and tours, bike hires and boat rides as well as the option of enjoying a traditional horse-drawn jaunting car spin. Killarney is a great base for exploring South West Ireland’s three wild Atlantic peninsulas, Dingle, Beara and Iveragh and the world-famous Ring of Kerry.

Did you know? Carrantuohill is Ireland’s highest mountain peak at 1038 metres Killarney National Park was established in 1932 to protect one of Ireland’s most precious natural habitats. It was designated as a Biosphere Reserve in 1981 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), part of a world network of natural areas which have conservation, research, education and training as major objectives. Oscar-nominated actor Michael Fassbender is Killarney’s most famous local resident and has starred in such films as X-Men, Prometheus, 12 Years A Slave, Steve Jobs and Assassin’s Creed. Killarney was made popular by Queen Victoria who visited Killarney in 1861 staying at Muckross House who has hosted numerous European Royal Families. Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty, who during the course of World War II helped to save over 6,500 civilians and prisoners of war, grew up in Killarney The famous Annals of Innisfallen were written by the monks living on the beautiful Innisfallen Island on the Lakes of Killarney. There are more than 2,500 entries spanning the years between AD 433 and AD 1450 making it older than the Book of Kells. For more information, call in to your nearest Discover Ireland Centre, Tourist Office or visit

www.discoverireland.ie 66

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