Koldo Fuentes: Ubeda, Baeza and the Sierra de Cazorla

Úbeda, Baeza and the Sierra de Cazorla

Jaén Spain

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Ceuta Melilla

MOROCCO Front cover : Cazorla Back cover : San Salvador. Ăšbeda

ALGERIA

Ăšbeda

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Baeza

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Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park

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Park Tours

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Useful addresses

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● Baeza. St. Francis’

Úbeda and Baeza: Renaissance splendour.

Emerging at the southern end of the Despeñaperros Pass, hillsides neatly 2

planted with row upon row of olive trees herald one's arrival in the Province of Jaén. Nestling here, in the very centre of the province, in a district aptly named La Loma (The Hill), are the historic cities of Úbeda and Baeza officially declared World Heritage Sites. These two cities, along with Salamanca and Alcalá de Henares, are Spain's best examples of a style known as Civic Renaissance. Whilst Úbeda may abound in palaces that are privately owned, those of Baeza are almost all in the public domain. Also Renaissance in style are the castle-palaces that dot the outlying areas, such as those of Sabiote and Canena... while, marching away in every direction, are the eternal olive groves, those same groves whose praises were sung by, Antonio Machado, a poet always more given to celebrating Nature than stone.

The hills of Úbeda "Yonder in those hills, Sire", the nobleman, Álvar Fáñez, is reputed to have languidly replied to King Alfonso VIII, when required by that vexed monarch to give an account of his whereabouts during a battle against the Moors. Tradition insists that Álvar Fáñez, like many a fellow knight, preferred to dally in the company of a comely damsel than to wield sword and battle axe at the side of his king. Yet the real reason for his forsaking Alfonso at the gates of the City of Úbeda lay in the uneasy relations between royalty and nobility.

This was the 13th century, a time of continuous skirmishing between Moor and Christian, and one that gave rise to as many castles as it did legends. The cities of Baeza and Úbeda –seized in turn by one or the other side- were ultimately to pass into Christian hands under King Ferdinand III el Santo (i.e., the Holy, sometimes referred to as St. Ferdinand), who, having forged a better understanding with his feuding noble factions, finally conquered Baeza in 1227 and Úbeda some seven years later.

Mosques were transformed into churches, and civic buildings changed owners and outward appearance, yet monumental structures of the Caliphate era nonetheless managed to survive, e.g., the Real Monasterio de Santa Clara in Úbeda, and the Aliatares Tower in Baeza.

U ● Úbeda. Palace of the Chains

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1. Sacred Chapel of the Saviour 16. Church of San Pablo 2. Hospital de los Honrados 17. Old City Hall y Venerables Viejos de 18. House of Don Francisco de LISTA DE MONUMENTOS El Salvador los Cobos 3. Deán Ortega Palace 19. Salvajes House 17. Antiguo Ayuntamiento Sacra Capilla Pósito de El Salvador del Mundo 4 1. 4.

Antiguo Palacio de Don Francisco de los Cobos 20.18.

Mudejar House 2. Hospital de los Honrados Viejos 3. 5.

Palacio Deán (Parador de Turismo) 19. Casa de los Salvajes Palace ofOrtega the Marqués 21.20.

LosCasa Manueles Mudéjar House 4. Antiguo Pósito de Mancera Casa deCanastero los Manueles 5. Palacio del Marqués de Mancera 22.21.

Obispo Houses Cárcel del Obispo 22. Casa del Obispo Canastero 6. 6.

Cárcel del Obispo 23.23.

Torrente Palace Palacio de la calle de Montiel 7. Santa María de los Reales Alcázares Church Santa María de Convento de Carmelitas Descalzas 8. 7.

Palacio de lasofCadenas 24.24.

Concepción Convent los Reales 25.

Iglesia de la Trinidad 9. Palacio Vela de Alcázares los Cobos 26.

Iglesia de San 10.8.Palacio de Orozco 25. Church of theIsidoro Holy Trinity Palace of the Chains 27. Palacio de los Bussianos 11. Palacio del Conde de Guadiana 26.28.

Church ofCaballerizo San Isidoro Casa del Ortega 12.9.Palacio del Marqués de Contadero Vela de los Cobos Palace 29.

Torre del Reloj 13. Palacio de Medinilla 27.

Bussianos Palace 10.Palacio Orozco Mansion 30. Puerta del Losal 14.

Casa de Las Torres Iglesia de San NicolásPalace 15. dede la Rambla Caballerizo Ortega 11.Palacio Conde Guadiana Mansion 28.31.

32. Hospital de Santiago 16. Iglesia de San Pablo 12. Marqués Contadero Mansion 29. Clock Tower 30. Losal Gate 13. Medinilla Mansion 31. Church of San Nicolás 14. Torres Mansion 32. Hospital de Santiago 15. La Rambla Mansion Información turística P Aparcamiento

Úbeda: palace by palace Ringed by its olive groves, Úbeda stands guard over one of Spain's richest artistic heritages.

Although the marks of Roman and Moor, of Romanesque and Gothic are all in evidence, it is the many 16th-century Renaissance churches and palaces that are the city's outstanding feature and the reason it was officially designated an Historic-Artistic Ensemble in 1975.

Indeed, Álvar Fáñez may or may not have roamed the Úbeda hills, but somebody who unquestionably did so (and spent much of his time in the process) was Andrés de Vandelvira, the one architect who designed and built most of the monumental Renaissance buildings both in this city and throughout the province. In the Province of Jaén, to speak of Renaissance is to speak of Andrés de Vandelvira.

Palaces seem to cascade along any Úbeda street, and the Old Quarter in particular simply overflows with mansions of this kind.

The most sumptuous of these were put up in the 16th century.

Then, in the 17th century, economic problems reared their head and quality began to decline. Even today, many still continue in private hands, whilst others house public bodies of one kind or another. In all, the city has over five hundred listed buildings, catalogued for their monumental or artistic interest.

It is advisable to do this tour during the early hours of the morning or after nightfall, when the buildings are bathed in spotlight and the feeling of travelling four hundred years back in time is that much more real. The best time to take photographs is at dusk, when the sun's rays play upon the façades, gilding them and forming arabesques of light and shade. On days when the heat is intense, the womenfolk hose down the streets, and the cooling effect of the evaporating water adds to the pleasure of a leisurely stroll.

5 ● Old City Hall

A tour of Úbeda Tours tend to start and finish at the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina (plaza; square). All the main sights are grouped in and around the square, the most beautiful of all being the Sacred Chapel of the Saviour (Sacra Capilla de El Salvador del Mundo) which, though designed by Diego de Siloé, was ultimately finished, supervised and built by Andrés de Vandelvira. More examples of Vandelvira's work are to be found in the portal of the Hospital de los Honrados y Venerables Viejos de El Salvador nearby and, lying adjacent to both Chapel and Hospital, the Deán Ortega Palace (nowadays the "Condestable Dávalos" Tourist Parador).

Standing on this same square are the Antiguo Pósito (public granary), the Palace of the Marqués de Mancera, the so-called Bishop's Jail (Cárcel del Obispo, where sinning nuns were locked up on the orders of the bishop) and the Collegiate Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares (St. Mary's), with an interesting Gothic cloister on the site of what was once the patio (courtyard) of a mosque. Off to one side is City Hall Square (Plaza del Ayuntamiento) with the Palace of the Chains (Palacio de las Cadenas), also by Vandelvira.

● Hospital de Santiago (St. James' Hospital)

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● La Rambla Mansion

● Antiguo Pósito

Wandering down the lanes and alleys to the left, one comes across a number of palatial edifices, such as Vandelvira's Vela de los Cobos Palace, and the Orozco, Conde de Guadiana, Marqués de Contadero, Medinilla, Morales, Torres and La Rambla Mansions.

Away to the right is a square, popularly known in the past as the "Plaza del Mercado" (Market Square ) and now renamed Plaza 1 de Mayo, with the Church of San Pablo (St. Paul’s) and the Old City Hall (Antiguo Ayuntamiento), unmistakably Italian in influence.

● Courtyard of the Torres Mansion

In the surrounding streets are yet more palaces, which abut onto tiny squares and feature wrought iron window grilles and noble escutcheons, e.g., the House of Don Francisco de los Cobos, the spectacular Salvajes House, the Mudejar (home to the Archaeological Museum - mudejar being the term used to describe the style favoured by the Moorish minorities), Los Manueles and Obispo Canastero Houses and, on Calle Montiel (calle; street), the Torrente Palace.

Montiel street leads into Corredera de San Fernando, the site of the Convent of the Discalced (i.e., barefoot) Carmelites (Convento de la Concepción de las Carmelitas Descalzas).

Some way farther on is the Plaza de Andalucía, distinguishable by the palatial balconies of the Calle Real, marking the corner where square and street meet. Nearby are the Church and Convent of the Holy Trinity (Santísima Trinidad), the Church of San Isidoro (St. Isidore's) –another of Vandelvira's works– the Bussianos and Caballerizo Ortega Palaces, and rising on one of the turrets of the old city wall, the Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj). A niche in the tower is a small shrine (hornacina) to the Virgen de los Remedios, and it was here that monarchs would come to swear on oath that they would honour and respect the city's jurisdictional rights.

Yet more sights await: the Church of San Nicolás (St. Nicholas'), the enormous edifice that is the Hospital de Santiago (Santiago; St. James) –both, as usual, designed by Vandelvira– and the Losal Gate (Puerta del Losal), another entrance way into the Úbeda of old. ● Vela de los Cobos Palace

â—? Church of the Saviour and Tourist Parador

Handicrafts Ăšbeda continues to be famed for its ceramicware, a legacy of its Moorish past. Originally known for its reddish glaze, there has been a shift to what has become a trademark shade of green.

Pottery and ceramics are the main handicrafts found throughout the province, but it is the wares of Ăšbeda, with their typical hue, that are best known.

This activity has been traditionally associated with a small number of families, such as the Tito and Almarza clans, and the Alameda Brothers, whose pottery works are located on the town's outskirts. Other items produced hereabouts are rush mats (made from esparto-grass) and ornate lanterns.

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Baeza, Pobre y Señora "Entre Úbeda y Baeza –loma de las dos hermanas: Baeza, pobre y señora; Úbeda, reina y gitana–."

(Twixt Úbeda and Baeza –one hill to saddle two sisters: Baeza, poor but a lady; Úbeda, queen yet a gypsy–).

Baeza may lie a mere nine kilometres from Úbeda but despite this proximity, the twin cities have nothing in common. Indeed, the rivalry between the two goes back a long way, as can be seen from the above stanza penned by the poet, Antonio Machado, who worked as a secondary school teacher in Baeza. Whilst Úbeda looks to industry for a living, Baeza relies more on farming... nevertheless, both are similarly encircled by serried ranks of olive groves.

What rankles the townspeople of Úbeda most is the fact that Baeza has a cathedral and they do not: to make matters worse, there are only two cathedrals in the entire province, one in Baeza and the other in Jaén itself, the provincial capital. Moreover, Baeza's Cathedral, built on the site of a former mosque, is precisely the one building by Vandelvira in the city that deserves the accolade of "masterpiece".

Vandelvira's hand is also to be seen in the Benavides Chapel, located in the Convent of San Francisco, near the City Hall (Ayuntamiento).

This latter building -now an officially declared National Monument- is Plateresque in style (plata, Spanish for silver, denoting the likeness to silver filigree) and began life as a prison.

Dating from 1520, when the Emperor Charles I signed the Royal Assent authorising its construction, the palace is one of the leading examples of Andalusian Plateresque. In 1867, after being suitably refurbished, it became the seat of the Municipal Authorities and Law Courts (Palacio de Justicia). Emblasoned on the four balconies lining the upper storey are the coats of arms of King Philip II, Don Juan de Borja (the Corregidor or Chief Magistrate, who ordered the building 10

● Cathedral

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LISTA DE MONUMENTOS

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1. Jaén Gate 17. Casas Consistoriales Altas 18.17.San Felipe Neri Seminary Casas Consistoriales Altas 1. Puerta de Jaén 2. Villalar Arch 18. Seminario de San Felipe Neri 2. Arco de Villalar 19.

Church of the Hospital de 3. Pósito 19. Iglesia del Hospital de la Purísima 3. Pósito laCaserón Purísima 20. de Rubín de Ceballos 4.

Audiencia Civil (Casa del Pópulo) 11 4. Audiencia Civil Convento de la Magdalena 5. Antigua Carnicería 20.21.Rubín de Ceballos Mansion 22. Casa de los Mendoza 6. Fuente de Los Leones 5. Antigua Carnicería Palacio de losConvent Elorza 7. Alhóndiga 21.23.Magdalena 6. Fuente deConsistoriales los Leones Bajas 24. Paseo de las Murallas 8. Casas 22.

Mendoza House 25. Puerta de Úbeda 9. Capilla del Cristo del Cambrón 7. Alhóndiga Torre de los Aliatares 10. Antigua Universidad 23.26.Elorza Palace 27. Convento de San Francisco 11. Arco del Barbudo Bajas 8. Casas Consistoriales 24.28.Paseo dedelas Palacio losMurallas Condes de Garcíez 12. Iglesia de Santa Cruz 9. Chapel of Cristo del Cambrón 29.

PalacioGate Cerón 13. Palacio de Jabalquinto 25. Úbeda 30. Casa Acuña 14. Iglesia de San Pablo 10. Old University Casa Cabrera 15. Catedral 26.31.Aliatares Tower 32. Ayuntamiento 16. FuenteArch de Santa María 11. Barbudo 27. Ruins of St. Francis' 12. Church of Santa Cruz 28. Condes de Garciez Palace Información turística 13. Jabalquinto Palace 29. Cerón Palace P Aparcamiento 14. Church of San Pablo 30. Acuña House 15. Cathedral 31. Cabrera House 16. Santa María Fountain 32. City Hall

● Jabalquinto Palace

enlarged in 1559) and the City of Baeza, as well as an abundance of decorative garlands, candelabras, mythical beasts, horns of plenty and figures of various kinds.

Baeza, in the guise of Vivatia, capital city of a people called the Viacenses, is mentioned by the Roman historian, Pliny. With the arrival of the Moors, the city, now renamed Bayyasa, was the capital of a territory stretching from the Sierra Morena Range to the River Guadalquivir. Though conquered by Ferdinand III el Santo in the 13th century, it was not until the 16th century that Baeza reached a pinnacle of splendour, and it is from this time that most of the monumental buildings date. This era also saw the rise of the city's university, sister to that of Salamanca, where St. John of the Cross (San Juan de la Cruz) and St. John of Avila both lectured. The city walls were torn down -as were several towers- at the behest of Queen Isabel the Catholic, "so that", say the locals, "the town might be better viewed". Visible on the city limits, where the line of buildings straggles to an end, are those same olive groves that Machado once celebrated in his verse: “Cerca de Úbeda la grande, cuyos cerros nadie verá, me iba siguiendo la luna sobre el olivar”.

(Hard by Úbeda so stately, whose hills no soul will see, did the moon pursue and stalk me o'er and through the olive trees).

A tour of Baeza The tour starts at the Jaén Gate, the main entry point into the city for as long as anyone can recall. Adjoining this gate is the Villalar Arch (Arco de Villalar), commemorating the imperial victory over the Comuneros of Castile at the battle from which the monument takes its name (comuneros; commoner's uprising crushed in 1521). The square into which the gate leads, the Plaza de los Leones (Lions' Square), is the most elegant in all of Baeza and facing onto it are many of the city's principal sights. Alongside the Arch itself is the Audiencia Civil (Law Courts), also known as the Casa del Pópulo and now home to the Tourist Office. Cheek by jowl with this building stands the former abattoir, the Antigua Carnicería (recognisable by the enormous imperial coat of arms on its façade) and, in the centre of the square, is the Fuente de los Leones (Fountain of the Lions), with a stone statue depicting a female figure, traditionally thought to be Imilce, Hannibal's wife, born in what was the town of Cástulo and is now Linares. Off at a slight angle, just where the Paseo de la Constitución begins, are the venerable buildings of La Alhóndiga (Grain Exchange), El Pósito (public granary), and Casas Consistoriales Bajas.

Go via Conde de Romanones and Beato Juan de Avila streets, lined with old seigneurial mansions, to reach the Old University

● Plaza de los Leones

(with the classroom where the poet, Antonio Machado, taught French for several years), the so-called Barbudo Arch and the Cristo del Cambrón Chapel (Capilla). Carry on as far as the small square of Santa Cruz, site of the Church of Santa Cruz (Holy Cross) and Jabalquinto Palace, a stunning example of Isabeline-Gothic. Be sure to go inside to see the building's Renaissance courtyard and monumental Baroque stairway. Opposite is the San Felipe Neri Seminary and, almost no distance away, is Baeza's other major monumental ensemble, presided over by the Cathedral (constructed over a former mosque). Highlights include the church's 13th-century Mudejar-Gothic Luna Door (luna; moon), its 15th-century rose window and the main façade, the pièce de resistance of its 16th-century Renaissance style. To one side of the cathedral are the Santa María Fountain and the Casas Consistoriales Altas, its door surmounted by the royal escutcheons of Joanna (Juana) the Mad and Philip I, forebears of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. At the rear of the cathedral is the Rubín de Ceballos Mansionhouse (caserón). Follow Calle de San Juan Bautista past other noble buildings, such as the Bishops' (Obispos) Palace, Avila House and the Romanesque Ruins of San Juan, to the street's junction with the Paseo de las Murallas, from where a fine view can be had of the olive groves.

The Plaza de Requena leads to the Úbeda Gate and thence, via Calle Barreras, to the Plaza de España, the very heart of the city. Visible from here is the Aliatares Tower, one of Baeza's few remaining Moorish vestiges. Still waiting to be seen are the ruins of San Francisco (converted into a concert venue) and the old stately homes situated in the Calle de San Pablo area, buildings such as the Condes de Garciez Palace, Cerón Palace, Acuña House, Cabrera House, Elorza Palace, as well as the Church of San Pablo (St. Paul's). Turn into Calle Magdalena to see Mendoza House and the Magdalena Convent.

14 Antigua Carnicería

Casa del Pópulo

Sabiote, Torreperogil, Canena and Ibros Also situated in the La Loma district is Sabiote (8 kilometres from Úbeda) which, together with Úbeda and Baeza, forms part of the province's Renaissance trilogy. An officially declared Historic-Artistic Ensemble, its castle-palace and town walls constitute Jaén's most important 16th-century military monument. The fortress, which dominates the valley and commands a sweeping view that extends from the Sierra Morena all the way across to the Sierra Mágina Range, was first Roman and then Moorish, until finally captured by Ferdinand III el Santo, in 1227. Its impressive outward appearance provides a stark contrast to its ruined interior. The walls, for their part, retain a number of arches, including the Chiringote and Pilarillo Arches, where the town sallies forth to meet the surrounding olive groves.

It was Andrés de Vandelvira who in the 16th century reconstructed the castle and gave it its Plateresque doorway.

Dating from the same era are some of the town's seigneurial residences, such as the Melgarejos, or as it is better known, Manillas House (i.e., nicknamed "Hands" due to the enormous door knockers), and the Messía, Leva and Columnas Mansions.

Only four kilometres away is the town of Torreperogil. All that is left standing of its former castle are some vestiges of the wall and two round towers in the town centre, suggestively dubbed the "Torres Oscuras" or "Dark Towers". Further local sights include the Renaissance Church of Santa María and an early medieval Old Quarter.

Another castle of importance, on which Vandelvira likewise left his mark, is that of Canena (8 kilometres from Baeza). Currently in private hands, it is in a perfect state of preservation.

Lastly, just three kilometres on from Canena, is Ibros, the site of a striking 4th-century-B.C. Iberian wall of gigantic proportions which, though designated as an Historic-Artistic Monument, has as 15 yet hardly been excavated.

Santa María Fountain

Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, the largest nature reserve in Spain

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Together, the Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas mountain ranges (sierras) form a key water-catchment area in which the Guadalquivir and Segura Rivers rise. This is a watershed area with a climate subject to both Atlantic and Mediterranean influences, and is home to two large reservoirs, the Tranco de Beas Dam (on the River Guadalquivir) and the Fuensanta Dam (on the River Segura). Roaming the region's woodlands are valuable wildlife species, such as the ibex, mouflon, red and fallow deer and wild boar, as well as some of the richest flora in the entire Mediterranean Basin, with over 1,200 species catalogued to date. With its 214,300 hectares, the Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park, is not only the largest of all Spain's parks, but also a Biosphere Reserve and officially designated Bird Haven.

The spring water in these mountains is icy cold, with just a hint of pine. Springs, rivulets, brooks and streams are everywhere -in the ravines, on the slopes, along the paths and trails... As often as not there is no discernable track leading to these pools, the sole visitors being the animals of the forest; some waterholes tend to be the haunts of wood pigeons, others of deer or ibex, and some of wild boar. The Cañada de las Fuentes is said to be the source of the River Guadalquivir, immortalised in Machado's lines, "Te vi en Cazorla nacer...

Un borbollón de agua clara, debajo de un pino verde..." (I saw you rise in Cazorla... A bubbling of clear water, beneath a verdant pine...)

This same terrain was once trodden: by Prehistoric Man, as witnessed 17 by the paintings near the Tíscar Pass; by Iberian tribes, who established settlements like that of Toya in the vicinity of Peal de Becerro; and by Romans, who founded the town of Bruñel near Quesada.

In its wake, the Reconquest left castles and a string of legends like that: of the Herrerías Bridge, at the entrance to the Park, said to have been erected in a single night to clear the way for Queen Isabel the Catholic and her troops, as they marched on Granada; and that of La Tragantía, a Moorish maiden

who as punishment was transformed into a snake and who appears on St. John's Eve, "Yo soy la Tragantía/ hija de un rey moro,/ el que me sienta cantar/ no verá la luz del día/ ni la noche de San Juan" (The Tragantía am I/ daughter of a Moorish King/ he who hears my song/ will ne'er again see the light of day / nor the night of St. John); or that of hidden treasure, left by the Moors and guarded by lovely young girls who appear only to the chosen few.

After the Moors were vanquished, these lands were formally delivered into the stewardship of the Military Order of Santiago (St. James) and were exploited as common property until the 18th century, when the area finally passed into the hands of the Ministry of Inland Revenue. In the 19th century, all woodlands and forests became state property. Thanks to the fertility of its pastures, these upland tracts have been one of Andalusia's most important animal husbandry and ranching areas since time immemorial.

Here too are some of the most picturesque towns and villages in the whole of Andalusia, such as Cazorla, La Iruela, Hornos or Segura de la Sierra.

Cazorla. Tranco de Beas Dam

The Sierra de Segura, the inhabited park By following the water courses in the direction of the Tranco de Beas Dam, one gets to the Sierra de Segura Range, embracing a total of 12 towns.

Unlike the Cazorla area, all but three of these lie within the park limits.

The first, perched above the Tranco, is Hornos, with look-out and vantage points at every step. The ancient Moorish walls almost entirely encircle a town topped by a castle that still retains its keep.

Hornos is also famous for its mistela (a drink made of grape juice and alcohol) and sausage meats.

The road now leads on to Segura de la Sierra. The town rises above olive groves and has always been considered impregnable.

Settled by Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans alike, it was given a series of names that made reference to its height, e.g., Tavara (high place), Orospeda (accessible only on foot) or Castrum Alto. The Moors called it Schakura, the origin of its present name of Segura.

Owing to infighting among the Almohad factions, the town was seized by the Christians, who then set about extending and enlarging it. Dating from this period are the seigneurial mansions, such as that belonging to the poet, Jorge Manrique (whose father was a Comendador of Segura, the equivalent of a Knight Commander). The 16th and 17th centuries brought a time of splendour and, with it, the kind of civic architecture exemplified by the Imperial Fountain (bearing the coat of arms of the Emperor Charles V), the Casa Consistorial (Town Hall) and the regal houses that, for the most part, line Calle de los Caballeros Santiaguistas.

19 Despite the havoc wrought by the Napoleonic Wars, Segura has been declared an Historic-Artistic Ensemble.

En route to Castile and silhouetted against scenic backdrops are the remaining towns and villages that lie within the confines of the Park Benatae, GĂŠnave, Puente de GĂŠnave, Orcera, Torres de AlbĂĄnchez, Siles and, edging deeper into this mountain wilderness, Santiago-Pontones.

From Cazorla to Quesada Cazorla has always been the natural gateway into the Nature Park.

History shows that this same site, originally called Carcesa, has been inhabited since ancient times, but true splendour only came with the advent of the Moors, from whom the present town has inherited the Arabic feel that pervades its streets and alleys. With its characteristic stone houses, steep narrow lanes (best not attempted by car) and flowered balconies, the town has officially been declared an HistoricArtistic Ensemble.

To get some of the best views, make for the small square known as the Plaza del Pintor Zabaleta.

Cazorla boasts two castles, the Yedra (Ivy) Castle and the Cinco Esquinas (Five Corners) Castle, the one Moorish, the other medieval, as might logically be expected from an enclave that was an important stronghold during the unsettled years of the Reconquest. Cazorla's Christians victors were subsequently to fill the town with convents and churches, outstanding among which are the impressive ruins of the Church of Santa María.

Nine towns (all lying along the outer fringe of the Park boundary) make up the Sierra de Cazorla 20 district: Cazorla, Chilluévar, Hinojares, Huesa, La Iruela, Peal de Becerro, Pozo Alcón, Quesada and Santo Tomé.

In the environs of Cazorla, scarcely two kilometres away, is ● Cazorla. Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature La Iruela, consisting basically of Park La Corredera, a solitary yet extremely long street flanked by small gardens, whitewashed stone houses, and terraces that bloom in a riot of colour in the springtime. The Church of Santo Domingo de Silos (St. Dominic's) -said to be the work of Vandelvira- stands midway along on this street as it climbs steeply to the castle and the modern auditorium which has been constructed in the ruins to serve as a concert venue. There is a long history of rivalry and confrontation between La Iruela and the neighbouring town of

Cazorla, which it "dominates" from the Virgen de la Cabeza Mirador (mirador; look-out point). From here it is only seven kilometres to the Park.

Quesada, another point of entry into the Park, lies ensconced on the western slopes of the Sierra de Cazorla Range. At one time or another, all the different civilisations have passed through these parts and left their mark. Presiding over the city is the Magdalena hill where remains of the El Argar culture have been unearthed.

Other finds include Roman ruins and mosaics in nearby Bruñel, the basic ground plan of a late 4thcentury Paleochristian Basilica the largest and most complete in Spain- and a Visigothic funerary stone. Dating from the Moorish period are the Majuela Castle ruins, the walls of Tíscar Castle and the lower section of the Quesada town wall. The town was intially reconquered and taken from the Moors by Archbishop Rodrigo Ximénez de Rada of Toledo in 1232, only to be recaptured by the Moors before eventually falling to the crown of Castile in 1309 during the reign of Ferdinand IV. The gate leading into the walled section, featuring a Roman funerary stone embedded in one of its jambs, dates from the 14th century. Local sights include noble houses 21 emblasoned with coats of arms and the Zabaleta Gallery displaying works by the artist.

At a distance of 14 kilometres from Quesada -by now inside the Park limits- is the Tíscar Santuario (santuario; shrine), situated at the foot of the Peña Negra crag and above the grotto called the Cueva del Agua. Once an important Moorish bastion, the shrine is now dedicated to the worship of the Virgin of Tíscar, the town's patron saint, with devotees flocking in from all parts of the district, as well as the Provinces of Granada and Almería. Adjacent to the shrine is a medieval castle, with its keep and part of the Moorish fort still intact.

In 1984, the first rock paintings were discovered, not far off, at a site known as the Cueva del Encajero. A further set came to light in 1990, this time in the Barranco de la Tinaja ravine (with zoomorphic figures).

Las cuatro villas (The four towns) It is in the Sierra de las Villas Range that the River Guadalquivir is joined by a tributary, the Corencia, and leaves the Park. Of the three mountain ranges that go to form the Park, this is the smallest, least populated and least known. The four villas (towns) that give their name to the range –Iznatoraf, Villacarrillo, Sorihuela de Guadalimar and Villanueva del Arzobispo– all lie outside the Park. While the oldest of the four, Iznatoraf, was already known to Julius Caesar, who refers to it in his writings as "Promontorius", it nevertheless saw its heyday under the Moors, when the town limits extended as far as the Guadalquivir.

At that time, it enjoyed a reputation as impregnable, and was called Hizna-Toraf, a reference to its elevated position atop a high rise.

Ferdinand el Santo took the town in 1226. Decline set in as from 1492, the year when it ceased to be a frontier post. Five town gates and a truncated tower are all that remain of its once imposing walled quarter.

One of the houses in Iznatoraf is known as the Casa de San Fernando (St. Ferdinand's House) because the king is said to have lodged there during his stay. High on its hilltop perch, the town is a sentinel point overlooking the Guadalquivir and Guadalimar river valleys.

Only 7 kilometres separates Iznatoraf from Villanueva del Arzobispo (formerly called La Moraleja), site of the Shrine of the Virgin of Fuensanta, patron saint of the district of Las Villas and Reina del Olivar, and another of the Park Gates. Devotion to this

Virgin harks back to the time of Moorish rule, when Alimenón, a Moorish King of Iznatoraf, martyred his wife for having converted to Christianity, and the Virgin came to her salvation and cured her. A hermitage chapel was built on the spot where the miracle took place. In time this became an important shrine, housing the sacred image said to have been brought here by San Isicio, Bishop of Cazorla. The Virgins of Fuensanta and Tíscar, are the most venerated saints of the Sierra de Cazorla region, a fact eloquently reflected in the old couplet: "Virgen de Fuensanta/ ¿quién es tu hermana?/ La Virgen de Tíscar/ que está en Quesada" (Virgin of Fuensanta/ who is your sister?/ The Virgin of Tíscar/ that is in Quesada).

The present-day Villanueva del Arzobispo served as a place of recreation for the Moorish Iznatoraf, and the Parish Church of San Andrés (St. Andrew's) is built on the site of an erstwhile fortress.

For a time, St. John of the Cross lived in the nearby locality of El Calvario, and in 1592 Miguel de Cervantes is recorded as having been in these parts collecting taxes.

The remaining towns are: Sorihuela, on which Philip II conferred the title of villa (similar to the concept of a royal borough) in 1565, with a castle in good state of preservation; and Villacarrillo which, under its earlier name of Mingo Priego, acted as bulwark and atalaya (watch tower or sentinel point). Its Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Our Lady of the Assumption), built by Vandelvira, is classed as a National Monument . ● Tíscar. Castle

Park tours The Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park can be toured on foot, horseback, by bicycle or car. Among the many possible routes and intineraries, the following deserve special mention:

1. Cerrada de Elias Canyon (10 kilometres). On foot.

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This, without doubt, is the most scenically stunning of all the Park tours. Standing at the 17-kilometre mark on the Cazorla-Tranco Dam road is the Torre del Vinagre (Vinegar Tower), home to the Centro de Interpretación de Naturaleza (Centre for Nature Study and Woodlore).

Swing down the road that branches off to the right, go as far as the 24 trout farm and leave the car here. Follow the 10-kilometre trail that hugs the course of the River Borosa. The so-called Cerrada de Elias lies roughly halfway along, and is a narrow canyon that cleaves through the middle of a forest of holm oak.

Farther on, after passing a power station, one gets to a spectacular waterfall, the Piscifactoría Salto de los Órganos, and to a number of tunnels leading to the Torre del source of the Borosa and Vinagre Puente de los Valdeazores Lake (laguna).

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Nacimiento del Río Borosa Laguna de Valdeazores

2. Game park (22 kilometres).On foot, by bike or car.

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The tour begins at the Torre del Vinagre (at the 17-kilometre mark on the Cazorla-Tranco road). Proceed to the Collado del Almendral Game Park (at the 28-kilometre mark). Here, walk up to the Castillo and Ánimas look-out points.

Luck permitting, and never on the weekend when there are far too many visitors, ibex and deer can be spotted as they come down to the water's edge at the day's end. Nearby is the Mirador de Rodríguez de la Fuente (a lookMirador de out point named after the late Rodríguez Isla de la Fuente Rodríguez de la Fuente, a Cabeza de la Viña Mirador de naturalist well known for his las Ánimas y television wildlife series), an del Castillo excellent spot from which to Parque Isla de see the deer on Bujaraiza Island.

Cinegético Bujaraiza

3. Source of the river Guadalquivir (20 kilometres). By car or on foot.

The Herrerías Bridge marks the start of the approach to the source of the River Guadalquivir. Here, depending on one's preferences, one can either leave the car and walk, or continue motoring. Keeping parallel to the river, the road climbs to the abandoned gardens of the Cortijo de Calerón Estate. After going through a short tunnel and then crossing the Arroyo de los Cierzos (arroyo; stream or small river), one soon gets to the Los Rasos Camp Site where there is a Forest Warden's Hut and, beyond that, a fountain. Carry on for one kilometre to the bridge and cross the river. The road now leads to another bridge, but before crossing it, turn down a track to the left which eventually reaches the source (nacimiento) of the River Guadalquivir.

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Campamento Cañada de las Fuentes

Nature Park. River ● Guadilquivir

Río Guadalquivir

4. Cerrada del Utrero (2 kilómetres). On foot.

Drive to the point known as the Cruce de Vadillo (near the Herrerías Bridge). Park the car here and walk on until a small bridge comes into sight. Just before getting to the bridge, take the path leading CERRADA off to the left. This follows the river and DEL UTRERO eventually emerges in an impressive canyon, the Cerrada del Utrero, which is closed off at one Linarejos end by a dam. There is a set of stairs Vadillo leading down from the dam wall. At the bottom, a series of waterfalls comes into view, the most beautiful being the Chorreadero de Linarejos. al Nacimiento del Guadalquivir

5. Peinero cave (66 kilómetres).

By car (preferably four-wheel drive).

Hornos

Starting from the point where the Tranco Dam ends, drive five kilometres and take the turning to the left (for anyone wanting to swim, there is a bathing hole within walking distance, the Charco de la Pringue). One kilometre beyond the Los Cerezos leisure and recreation area (that includes a camp site for youngsters) there is a look-out point from which vultures can be seen as they hover and swoop at sundown. Cross over Tranco the Collado de los Perros Pass (collado; col Embalse or low pass) and then make your del Tranco way down to the Raso de la vir 28 Honguera (a stream which alqui Ca o Guad í R zor flows into the River la rezos Los Ce Cueva Aguascebas Grande) and to the r o del Peinero Mirad Peinero Cave, which lies Rí o approximately midway along the Ag u asce bas G route. From here the road traverses rande the Gil Cobos and Pocico Passes to arrive at the Fresnedilla forest hut. Three kilometres farther on Embalse de lies the Aguascebas Dam (near Aguascebas the track leading to Chorro Gil, with its spectacular waterfall).

Exit the Park checkpoint and Mogón head for Mogón.

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Cazorla Chilluevas

6. Route of the castles (12 kilĂłmetres). On foot.

Leaving Cazorla behind, a distance of barely two kilometres will bring one to La Iruela, its Templar Castle sitting high astride a limestone outcrop and commanding a splendid panoramic view.

Continue along the path to the Shrine of the Virgen de la Cabeza, from which villages can be spied far below. Thereafter, descend via the Camino de la Virgen (Virgin's Way) as it heads in the direction of the Chorro Castillo After passing through the Riogazas Templario La Iruela checkpoint, go up the right-hand trail that climbs towards Cinco Esquinas Castle. Then lose height Cazorla again to join the path leading to the entrance to Cazorla and Ermita de Yedra Castle, the third and last la Virgen de la Cabeza Castillo of the castles on this route. de la Yedra

Castillo de las Cinco Esquinas

Control de Riogazas

â—? Griffon Vulture

Useful addresses Accommodation Apart from the two Tourist Paradors, the Condestable Dávalos Parador in Úbeda, and El Adelantado Parador in the Sierra de Cazorla Nature Park, the best places to stay are Baeza, Cazorla and Úbeda -with ten hotels each- and La Iruela and Villanueva del Arzobispo, with five.

In addition to the Cazorla Villa Turistica, within the Park limits there are serviced holiday flats, lodging houses (hostales), hotels, tourist complexes and country-type accommodation, including 17 cortijadas (Andalusian farmhouse and outbuildings, usually set around an inner courtyard) and 5 camping sites.

● Baeza

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● Cazorla Parador

Local cuisine In general, olive oil tends to play a major role in Jaén cooking. Typical dishes in the locality, the so-called cocina serrana are rich in calories and include items such as: lomo de orza (the orza being a glazed ceramic container used to preserve pork in olive oil; carne de monte (game), espinacas jienenses (spinach Jaén style), pipirrana (a fresh tomato relish, midway between a gazpacho and a salad), gazpachos (varieties of cold soup containing chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and green peppers, mixed with olive oil, vinegar and garlic), revueltos de espárragos trigueros or setas (scrambled eggs with tender asparagus shoots or wild mushrooms), ajo blanco (a cold soup made with almonds, garlic, vinegar and olive oil), migas (breadcrumbs fried in oil and garlic with diced ham, bacon and sausage), potajes de verdura (vegetable potage) and cazuelas de caza menor (game casseroles). As for fish, cod (bacalao) figures prominently, especially when cooked Baezastyle in andrajos (literally "tatters", a dish made with squares of pasta) and ajoharina (potatoes stewed in garlic sauce).

Prominent among the wines are those from Torreperogil and Úbeda, to say nothing of the famed Hornos mistela. ● Olive oil

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Festivals & Folklore Baeza Easter Week. Declared of National Tourist Interest.

Day of the Cross (Día de la Cruz).

A moveable feast day.

Corpus Christi. A moveable feast day.

Fiesta in honour of the city's patron saint, the Virgen del Alcázar.

12th-15th August.

Romería (pilgrimage outing) in honour of Santísimo Cristo de la Yedra and Santa Virgen del Rosel.

7th September.

Canena St. Mark's Day (San Marcos).

25th April.

Corpus Christi. A moveable feast day.

Fiesta in honour of the town's patron saint, the Virgen de los Remedios. Mid-August.

Iznatoraf St. Isidore's Day (San Isidro).

15th May. Fiesta in honour of the town's patron saint, the Cristo de la 32 Veracruz (Christ of the True Cross).

3rd-7th September.

Sabiote Fiesta in honour of the town's patron saint, Santa María de la Estrella. May. St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. St. Rita's Day. 22nd May. Fiesta in honour of the town's patron saint, San Ginés de la Jara. 22nd-26th August.

Torreperogil Pilgrimage outing in honour of the Apostle St. James (Santiago Apóstol).

Corpus Christi. A moveable feast day.

St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. Fiesta in honour of the town's patron saint, the Virgen de la Misericordia. On or around 8th September. Úbeda Bonfire festivities in honour of St. Anthony (hogueras de San Antón). 16th January.

Candelaria. 2nd February.

Easter Week, declared of National Tourist Interest.

Pilgrimage outing in honour of the Virgen de Guadalupe. May. Pilgrimage outing in honour of St. Isidore. May. St. Isidore's Day. May. International Music and Dance Festival. May-June.

Corpus Christi. A moveable feast day.

Fair and fiesta to honour the city's patron saint, St. Michael (San Miguel).

28th September-4th October.

Villacarrillo St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. St. Rita's Day. 22nd May. Fiesta in honour of the town's patron saint, Cristo de la Veracruz. 15th September.

Day of Our Lady of the Rosary (Nuestra Señora del Rosario).

7th October.

Villanueva del Arzobispo Day of Cristo de la Veracruz.

3rd May. St. Isidore's Day. 15th May. Corpus Christi. A moveable feast day.

Fiesta to honour the town's patron saint, the Virgen de la Fuensanta. 8th September.

Pilgrimage outing in honour of St. Michael. 29th September.

Places of scenic and cultural interest Baeza Hacienda La Laguna country estate: tourist complex, with leisure and recreation area, and olive oil museum (9 km.).

Laguna Grande scenic area (10 km.). Iberian settlement of Gil de Olid (9 km.).

Canena Roman aqueduct (1 km.).

Giribaile Dam (5 km.).

Cazorla The peak of Peña de Los Halcones (above the town): mountain vantage point from which to watch the Griffon Vulture (Gyps Fulvus) in flight.

Park Gate (9 km.).

Hornos de Segura Bujaraiza (26 km.), with ruined Moorish castle and the Rodríguez de la Fuente look-out point.

La Iruela Fuente de las Zarzas (12 km.) and Mirador del Valle look-out point (13 km.).

Segura de la Sierra Source of the River Segura with leisure and recreation area, and the River Madera (renowned for its trout).

Torreperogil Cañada Real El paso with leisure and recreation area (2 km.). Puente de la Cerrada scenic area (13 km.).

Cycle path along the abandoned Baeza-Utiel railway line (3 km.). Úbeda Alto (Upper) Guadalquivir scenic area (14 km.).

Renaissance Ariza Bridge (15 km.). Roman archaeological site of Úbeda La Vieja (15 km.). Úbeda dolmen (3.5 km.).

Villacarrillo Guadalquivir riverside (8 km.).

La Osera with colony of Griffon Vultures (16 km.).

Villanueva del Arzobispo River Guadalimar (6 km.).

Orcera Moorish ruins and Fuente de los Chorros.

33

Sabiote Fuente de la Corregidora waterfall (1 km.) and caves.

Guadalimar riverside (10 km.).

Olvera Dam (10 km.) ● Hornos de Segura

Useful Addresses International Dialling Code % 34 Tourist Information TURESPAÑA www.spain.info Turismo Andaluz. Compañia, 40. 29008 Málaga % 901 200 020 ) 951 299 300 www.andalucia.org Tourist Board (Patronato de Turismo) Plaza de San Francisco, 2. Palacio Provincial. 23071 Jaén % 953 248 000 ) 953 248 064 www.promojaen.es TOURIST INFORMATION Jaén. Maestra, 13 % 953 313 281 Baeza. Plaza del Pópulo % 953 740 444 Cazorla. Paseo del Santo Cristo,17 % 953 710 102 Orcera. Joaquín Paya % 953 480 154 Segura de la Sierra. Paseo Genaro Navarro % 953 480 280 Úbeda. Palacio Marqués de Contadero Baja del Marqués, 4 % 953 750 897 Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Nature Park Martínez Falero,11. Cazorla % 953 720 125 Green Tourism and Country Cottages % 902 442 233 ) 950 271 678 www.raar.es PARADORS (State-run hotels) Central booking office. Requena, 3 28013 Madrid % 902 547 979 ) 902 525 432 www.parador.es Parador de Cazorla. Sierra de Cazorla % 953 727 075 ) 953 727 077 Parador de Jaén. Castillo de Santa Catalina % 953 230 000 ) 953 230 930 Parador de Úbeda. Plaza de Vázquez Molina % 953 750 345 ) 953 751 259 TRANSPORT RENFE (Spanish Rail) % 902 240 202 International information % 902 243 402 www.renfe.es Bus stations. Úbeda % 953 752 157. Baeza % 953 740 468 Highway Information % 900 123 505 www.dgt.es USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Emergencies % 112 Medical Emergencies % 061 Civil Guard % 062 National Police % 091 Municipal Police % 092 Citizen Information % 010 Post Office % 902 197 197 www.correos.es

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SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD CANADA. Toronto Tourist Office of Spain 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402. Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2 % (1416) 961 31 31 ) (1416) 961 19 92 www.tourspain.toronto.on.ca e-mail: toronto@tourspain.es GREAT BRITAIN. London Spanish Tourist Office 22-23 Manchester Square. London W1M 5AP % (44207) 486 80 77 ) (44207) 486 80 34 www.tourspain.co.uk e-mail: londres@tourspain.es JAPAN. Tokyo Tourist Office of Spain Daini Toranomon Denki. Bldg.4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKYO-105 % (813) 34 32 61 41 ) (813) 34 32 61 44 www.spaintour.com e-mail: tokio@tourspain.es RUSSIA. Moscow Spanish Tourist Office Tverskaya – 16/2 Business Center "Galeria Aktor", 6th floor Moscow 103009 % (7095) 935 83 97 ) (7095) 935 83 96 www.ru.tourspain.es e-mail: moscu@tourspain.es SINGAPORE. Singapore Spanish Tourist Office 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 Singapore % (657) 37 30 08 ) (657) 37 31 73 e-mail: singapore@tourspain.es UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Los Angeles Tourist Office of Spain 36 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. Beverly Hills, California 90211 % 1(323) 658 71 88 ) 1(323) 658 10 61 www.okspain.org e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.es Chicago Tourist Office of Spain Water Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845 North Michigan Avenue Chicago, Illinois 60 611 % 1(312) 642 19 92 ) 1(312) 642 98 17 www.okspain.org e-mail: chicago@tourspain.es Miami Tourist Office of Spain 1221 Brickell Avenue, Miami, Florida 33131 % 1(305) 358 19 92 ) 1(305) 358 82 23 www.okspain.org e-mail: miami@tourspain.es New York Tourist Office of Spain 666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor. New York, New York 10103 % 1(212) 265 88 22 ) 1(212) 265 88 64 www.okspain.org e-mail: nuevayork@tourspain.es

EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada. Núñez de Balboa, 35. 3º % 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251 Great Britain. Fernando El Santo, 16 % 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 Japan. Serrano, 109 % 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321 Russia. Velázquez, 155 % 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712 United States of America. Serrano, 75 % 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303 Úbeda. Plaza del Ayuntamiento (City Hall Square)

Text: Translation: Photographs: Graphic Design: Layout and design:

César Justel Michael D. Benedict Turespaña photographic archives Koldo Fuentes OPCIÓN K. Comunicación Visual, S.L.

Published by:

© Turespaña Secretaría de Estado de Turismo y Comercio Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y Comercio

Printed by: D.L.: M-XXXXX-XXXX NIPO: XXX-XX-XXX-X Printed in Spain

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